Ulloa, Antonio de. 1806. A voyage to South America: describing at large the Spanish cities, towns, provinces, &c. on that extensive continent. 4th ed. London: Stockdale. Volume 1.

RECORD: Ulloa, Antonio de. 1806. A voyage to South America: describing at large the Spanish cities, towns, provinces, &c. on that extensive continent. 4th ed. London: Stockdale. Volume 1.

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VOYAGE

TO

SOUTH AMERICA:

DESCRIBING AT LARGE

THE SPANISH CITIES, TOWNS, PROVINCES, &c.

ON THAT*

EXTENSIVE CONTINENT:

UNDERTAKEN, BY COMMAND OF THE KING OP SPAIN,

DON GEORGE JUAN,

AND

DON ANTONIO DE ULLOA,

CAPTAINS OF THE SPANISH NAVY, \

FELLOWS OP THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, MEMBERS OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY AT PARIS, &C, &C,

TRANSLATED FROM THE ORIGINAL SPANISH;

WITH

NOTES AND OBSERVATIONS; and AN ACCOUNT OF THE

BRAZILS.

By JOHN ADAMS, Esq. op Waltham Abbey; Who resided several Years in those Parts.

THE FOURTH EDITION. ILLUSTRATED WITH PLATES*

VOL. I.

LONDON:

FRINT&D FOR JOHN STOCKDALE, PICCADILLY; R. FAULDER, BOND-STREET; LONGMAN AND CO. PATERrNOSTER ROW; LAGKINGTON AlfD CO. FINSBURYSQUARE; AttD J, HARDING, ST. JAMES*S STREET.

. 1806.

J.BKKrmt&t Blister, M«tthall

TO

COMMODORE SIR HOME POPHAM, Knt,

sir;

With a Pride which, I venture to assert, I feel, only in common with every other British Subject, I take the liberty to dedicate to you this Republication.

It contains, with other interesting matter, a slight sketch of Buenos-Ayres; that Territory which now is, and will most probably remain, from your Foresight, Ability, and personal Bravery, one of the richest Jewels in the United Crown.

I am proudj Sir, in thus publicly offering my feeble tribute to your extraordinary Merits, to assure you of the respectful Esteem,, high Regard, and sincere Friendship, with which

I have the honour to subscribe myself

Your ever obliged,

Obedient and humble Servant,

JOHN STOCKDALE.

London, Sept. *6,1805.

PREFACE.

XT is certarftlya very true, as well as trite observation, that knowledge is the food, of the mind} and if this be so, then certainly that ought to h^ve the preference, which h at once equally nutritive and pleasant. On this account, books of voyages and travels have been in such general esteem, and at the sapie time have been commended by persons of the greatest sagacity, and in the highest reputation for superior Understanding. The pteasanthesq of this kind of reading his attracted iriany, wha had before no relish for learning, and brought them by degrees to enter upon severer enquiries, in order more effectually to gratify that curiosity which this kind of study naturally excites. Men of higher abilities have turned their thoughts on this subject, from J he consideration, of its real utility. This induced the ingenious Hakluyt to make that noble collection* which procured him tne patronage of queen Elizabeth's ablest minister. This led the elder Thevenot, to enrich the French language with a very copious collection of the same kind. And, not to multiply examplds, this made voyages and travels the favourite study of the judicious Locke, who looked upon it as the best method of acquiring those useful add practical lights, that serve most effectually ^o strengthen and also to enlarge the human under* standing*

; a 3 , I*

VI PREFACE.

* — ItH» iiittegcUwa^thatifl respfct laJtbia*. &A wallas other branches of science, there have been many productions, which for a time wereapplauded and admired, and which, notwithstanding, have served rather to mislead, than to instruct men's minds, by a display of specious fa|sehj>o^s, highly acceptable to such as read merely for amusement. But these authors of marvellous, and very often incredible relations; of strange and surprizing1 adventures; these pompous describers of wonderful curiosities, which men of njore ~' penetration,; b'utofsounder judgGroeat^coi^rd never afterwards,' though pursuing the sanje routes with , their utmost diligence,* discover.; quickly lost that -credit, which *>ovelty alone gave them;, and* being ~* Mnte exploded by sensible judges* gradually sunk, j f first into the contetnf t, and; then . into, thp pblividn, they deserved* !..../ j

i0 * These' books,-howeveiy aie thus far, useful* tjiat

they serve to givef us x clearer idea pfpur wantjs, ^nd

' a more jlist tfiotibn* than .perhaps we< cpijl^ otherwise

y.' obtain,of the qualities fecpiisite to render, yqyage^nd travels trnly worthy x>f esteem. They demonstrate yery ftdly, that, in the first pkee, it is of great consequence, to know the characters of the authors we '. peruse, that we may judge of the credit, that is jdt^e to their reports; and this as well in point of abilities, as of veracity ; for many writers impQ^oa the world,

^ not.through any evil intention of .deceiving others, 'but because they have been deceived, thgrosel.ves. They-relate falsehoods, but-they believe them :v we cannotthereforejustlyaccuse tliemofMMOt of qandpur; the fault;properly to be laid to their, charge, incredulity. We are most in danger of suffering by those ' * authors, who hav# either lived in, or parsed throjugh

, countries, that are rarely visited, and into whichfew

arc permitted to come, -This protects their mistakes

1 for

Bigitized by

TWBV&G&*

V*I

.for » groat Idagth of time; **aftd *we 4cnow tfaarttpne-scriptiom is a fortress ib -which -error often holds -- euteft longpsiege. There*cannot therefore* be ra n*ore i acceptable tribute offered-to the republic of lettefrp, th^n voyages ODtravels^ composed^ by* persons'of<es-' tab!ished reputation for leading,;and in eqaal esteem for their probity. But the value of the present/is much enhanced, if these voyages or travels respect countries little known, tbe^c&asts of which only, n perhaps, hare been accidentally visited by seamen*. 01^ harassed atad plundered by privateers,*persons often of suspected faith, and almost? always of very limited capacities. Some few exceptions indeed there may'rbe to this general rule; but even in regard to these, therf ^will be necessarily great defects ; and allowing tham 1 their highest merit; they can only report1 truly the little they have seen: and what idea can we form *f a Turkey carpet, if we look only at the border, or,-it may be, at the selvage ?

The authors, whose writings are now offered to the public in an English dress, are men of the most respect-- able characters, men distinguished for their parts and learning, and yet more for their candour and integrity : men who did not travel through accident, out by choice; and this not barely their own, but ap- proved by authority, and approved because they were known to be equal to the tapk they undertook; and v that task was, the examining every thing they went to see, with all possible care and scrupulous attention, in order to furnish the public with such lightens might be entirely and safely depended on* This was the design which they undertook: this design they *executed with the circumspection it deserved; and the punctuality with which they discharged it, has procured them the just returns of favour from their royal master, and the applause and approbation of

a 4 the

Digitized1 by

ViH JPREFACfc.

the best judges in their own and other countries.

These are circumstances that distinguish, in a very

singular degree, the following work ; circumstances

that, no doubt, will have their proper weight, and whifch it would be entirely needless for us to enforce, though it wbuld have been inexcusable not to have mentioned them.

* . There is however one other circumstance that deserves particular notice, which is, that, with respect to the characters and abilities of these gentlemen, all does not rest either upon their writings or foreign autho-

: rities: they have been in this country; were seen and

v known by th&se who were best able to judge of their merit; and, in consequence of that, are both of them members of our royal society. They continued here some time, conversed indifferently with all sorts of

- people^ and were unanimously allowed to have very extensive views in respect to science; great sagacity; much application; were very assiduous and very accurate in their enquiries, as well as candid and commu-

nicative in relation to the discoveries and observations which they had made in their travels.—Men of such talents, and such dispositions, must render themselves agreeable every where; much more in a country of liberty, and where, without partiality, we may have leave to say, the sciences are as deeply rooted* and flourish in as high a degree, as in any other in Europe. We will add, that, from a knowledge of their merit and candour, they not only received the greatest civilities, but the most seasonable protection, to which, in some measure, the world is indebted for this very perform-

ance, as the reader will learn in the perusal of it; accompanied with those marks of gratitude and respect, which were due to their kind benefactors, more especially the late worthy president of the royal society, > ^ whose memory is justly dear toali who had the honour

of

PREFACE* IX

-of being in the least acquainted with him*; aiid that humane and polite patron of every useful branch of literature, Earl Stanhope; whose noble qualities reflect honour on his titles, and who inherits {he virtues of his illustrious father, one of the bravest men, and one of the most disinterested ministers, this nation could ever boast.

After doing justice to the authors, let us come to the work itself. In pieces of this kind, there is, generally speaking, no part so tedious and unpleasant, at least to the generality of readers, as what regards occurrences at sea; and yet these are allowed to have their utility. In the following sheets, however, though they are found pretty copiously, we shall see them without those defects. If these writers mention the variation of the compass, they explain the nature, en- ' quire into the cause, and shew the uses that arise from observing this phenomenon. In this manner, they ' treat, of calms, winds, currents, and other incidents, in so succinct and scientific a method, as at the same time to be very instructive, and not unentertaining. : In, this respect,, we may look upon their narrative^ as a sort of practical introduction to the art of navigation, which we not only read without disgust, but which, when read with any tolerable attention, will enable us to understand many passages in other writers of voya-, ges, which we should otherwise pass over, as utterly . uninteresting and unintelligible This observation, the reader will find so fully verified, from his own f experience* that, I am confident, he will think it no small recommendation to the book; and the more so, because, though very necessary, and much wanted/

* Martin Folkes, Esq.; a gentleman not more conspicuous from bb extensive knowledge, than amiable for the politeness of his manners, and respectable for bis excellent private character.

2 the

the difficulties attending it had ^hitherto, iu-a^at' ^measure, discouraged any such attempt.

^TttE geographical descriptions *ve have of the 1 country ahout Carthagena, the isthmus of Darien, > the Terra Fira>a, the countries of Peru and Chili, those watered by the vast river of the/Awawns, and, in a word, of the greatest part of South America, are 'not only perfectly accurate, very methodical, and, in all respects, full, clear, and satisfactory; but-also whit we greatly wanted, and what we never had, at least in any comparison with what we now have, before 'this work appeared. These are countries that, from 'the time of their discovery, have maintained the re-»jHttation of being as pleasant, as fertile, and as valuable,' as any upon theglobe. But though we knew this in general, and, from the Spanish descriptions and histories, were not altogether unacquainted with many particulars relating to them ; yet with respect to any distinct and precise delineation of their several provinces, their divisions and subdivisions, the distribution of mountains, rivers, plains, and other circumstances, with their'relations to each other, tod comparative values in all respects, they were things not barely unknown, but such as we could never expect to know, from the nature <>f the Spanish government, with any degree of certainty. But by the accident of these gentlemen going thither, with no other view than the improvement of knowledge, pursuing that view with the most lively zeal and assiduous application, and founding their reputation upon a plain and candid communication of all that knowledge, which, with so much pains and labour, they had acquired ; we have now as clear, concise* . and correct a representation of these extensive regions, as we xran possibly desire: such a one, as will answer all the end* of information and instruction,

enable

PREFACE.

XI

enable us to discover the errors and partialities in former accounts, and prevent 6ur being amtised ror misled by any erroneous relations for the future; which are certainly circumstances of very great con*-sequence.

The natural history of these countries will be likewise found in the following sheets, in a manner no> less perfect and pleasing. These gentlemen went about it in a proper method, and with the talents i*equfoite to the complete accomplishment of their design.- They saw things with their own eyes, they enquired ^carefully, but they took nothing on trust: on the coatra-ry,'they discovered, and they have disclosed, many errors of an old standing; exploded various common notions that were ill founded, and have left others in the state in which they ought to be left/ as things . not thoroughly proved, Qr absolutely disproved; but which are reserved for further examination. It is chiefly from the natural history, that we collect *the value and importance of any country, because from thence we learn its produce of every kind. In these sheets we find the greatest care taken in this particular; all the riches of the mineral, vegetable, and animal kingdoms exhibited to our view, their places exactly assigned, their respective natures described, the methods of using, improving, and manufacturing them, pointed out; and, exclusive of a multitude of vulgar errors exposed, and mistaken notions refuted, an infinity of hew, curious, and important i-emfcrks are made, all tending to explain and illustrate ikt rer spective subjects. Of these many instances might be given; but that would be to anticipatethe reader's pleasure, and arrogate to ourselves tne merits of the authors we celebrate.

Ik

% xii prefAc±.

Ik inspect to the civil history, the world in general was yet more in the dark, than as to the natural j knowing much less of the inhabitants than of the com-

_ modifies of these countries; and in this respect, our authors have been as candid, as circumstantial, and as copious, as in the other. They not only acquaint

. tis with the distribution and disposition of theSpanish governments; with the nature, extent, andsubofdina-

- tion of those who preside in them; but have also given us a regular plan of their administration, and of the order and method in which justice is dispensed, and the civil policy maintained ; the domestic (feconomy of the Spaniards, their customs, manner of living, their way of treating the Indians, both subjects and savages, arfc stated with the same freedom and precision. In like manner they give us a succinct account of the Creoles, that is, such as are descended from th$ Spaniards, and have been longer or later settled in the Indies, with whatever is peculiar in respect to the genius, humour, virtues, and vices of these people; and more especially the points in which they differ from the native Spaniards. The state and condition of the Indians who live in subjection to the Spaniards, their tempers, employments, good and ill qualities, labours and diversions. The habitations of the free Indians, their customs, dress, manner of spending their lives, exercises, talents, religion, and method of preserving the remembrance of past transactions, as also the condition of the Negroes and Mulattoes, whether in the capacity of slaves, domestic servants, or in possession of their freedom, with whatever differences occur in the state of any of these people in different, provinces.

But to the English reader, perhaps, nothing in the following pages will be more acceptable, as indeed

nothing

PREFACE.

*m

nothing seems to have been more carefully considered by the authors, than the commercial history of these countries. W6 find here, not only the principal commodities of every province distinctly enumerated ; but we are also informed of the particular places where they grow, their different qualities and degrees in value, the method of collecting and curing most part of them, the manufactures of cotton, wool, and other materials, the produce of their mines and! different kinds of metal, their potteries, and whatever else is the object of industry and skill: The manner of conveying them from one province to another, the great roads, the inland and coasting navigation, their commerce with Spainf their contraband trade, the manner of introducing, and the great consumption, of European commodities and manufactures, the advantage? and disadvantages attending their present regulations, the discoveries that are yet to be made, and the improvements which may still take place in the management of affairs in those countries: The singular ' inventions of the natives for passing great rivers, transporting their goods by the help of vessels of their own construction, their adroitness in some respects, and their stupidity in others.—From the due consideration of this part of the work, the reader will perceive, that in many things we have been im- , posed upon, in former accounts; arid that other things, in a long course of years, are very much changed from what they were. But instead of old errors, we shall find many new truths, and some established from example and experience, that are of too great consequence not to be frequently remembered, and perfectly understood : Such as, that countries are not the better, and, which is still stranger, are not the richer, for producing immense quantities of golfj aijd silver; since this prevents! their being cul*.

tivated,

XJV PREFACE.

tivated, exposes the natives to pass their lives in „ the severest drudgery, and, after all, makes the cljgging of. metal from the mine little more than drawing water in a sieve; since, in such countries, riphj^ disappear almost as soon as they are revealed.' Ipdustry aiouje, in th^ old world, and in the new, has the, paw.er. of acquiring and preserving wealth, and, ttijS too without the trouble of mining. Besides, tiipugh not insisted upon, it will be evidently seen, tfi£t severity in government, and superstition in religion,, subvert both liberty and morals, and are consequently in all respepts destructive of the happiness q£ mapkind*

The account given by our authors, of the missions which the Jesuits have established" in Paraguay, is as interesting as it is entertaining ; and may be vety m$]y considered as one of the most curious and RCS^ y%fitte& parts of the whole performance; since, %t the s#me time that it breathes all the deference ^nd respect possible for the; fathers, it infonhs us of % great variety of facts of so much the more cohse-

2ijence, a?, at the time it was written, nobody could, iresee th^t the courts of Madrid and Lisbon would make ao. thorough a change as they have done in t&ar sentiment? m regard to this order; and therefore the informations these gentlemen give us, are the ipofS ip be relied on. They shew \is in what maaper, ^nd under what specious pretences, the Jesuits acquired 4 kind of independent possession of sp large a tract of country, and, ekcept iheir anpual tribute, an almost absolute dominion over an immeusp jpmbgr pf people. They acquaint us, that there is a civil government in every village,after th$ tnpdel of the Spanish towns; but the magistrates are chosen by the people, subject only to the fypprolp^tiou of the father Jesuit, who resides iti,

and,

PREFACE. XVv

| and, in reality, governs th& village. Wfir lefirn from them, that, the Jesuits draw, from the people all the* convrnodatiesand manufacturesthat are tit .forforeign, commerce* which are. vended by a commissary of

[ their appointing, and the returns in European con*-moditi^ made to and distributed by them,at their

\ pleasure; they tell «s* that; the church in every village is spacious, and? elegantly adorned; that,

though they are styled villages, they are< in effect Urge towns, and the hou&es in them neat, commodious, and, in comparison of, the Spaniards', very well furnished. We learn from them* that; mwler a^ jwetence of the excursions'of the Portuguese, whj(>>

J used to seize these Indians, and make them work ill;

; the mines, and of the savage Indians, wjiq, sur*. rounded them in a manner on all sides, the father* have taught them the use of arms, make them spend, their holidays* in military exercises, have a. targe

| body of well-disciplined troops* magazines well; furnished with military stores, together with nwll$,

1 and other necessary machines for making their owui

i gunpowder. They likewise let us, know, that, tor prevent the manners of their disciples from behtgr corrupted, the Jesuits exclude them entirely from all communication with strangers, whether Europeans;

;i or Indians, and suffer none to enter into their; rajs-

i, sions, who may report either the strength or the

J weakness of their condition, or penetrate ioto the

ml mysteries i of their pfclicy*

id Another,point* worthy of notice is, tbe account

id of the little island of Fernando de Noronat This, sq

er inconsiderable in* itself, so urifit for habitation, from

is] its being sometimes three or four years without rain,

m was abandoned by the Portuguese; yet, being within

in. sixty or seventy leagues of the coast of Brazil, was

id,| occupied by the French JJasfclndia ooiopany; which

induced

XVI

PREFACE.

induced its former masters to repossess it, and to fortify it likewise, notwithstanding the aforementioned inconvenience. The building here no less than seven forts, to cover and command three harbours, in the largest of which there is a garrison of a thousand regular troops, relieved constantly once in six months from Fernambuca, plainly proves that either the force of the Portuguese is much greater in those parts than we commonly apprehend in Europe: or, which is more probably the truth, that they are to the last degree jealous and suspicious of that enterprizing nation, who, in virtue of the great law of convenience, are for appropriating to their own use whatever they find themselves in a condition to seize and. to secure. This gives us the true cause of that surprize and uneasiness which the Portuguese, during the last war, expressed, when a French squadron, with a body of land-troops on board, intended against our settle* ments in the East Indies, touched there, on account of an epidemic disease among their troops; which," it seems, the Portuguese mistook for the epidemic thirst of gold; and were so apprehensive of their making a visit to their mines, that though they could not w;ell refuse them relief in their distress, yet they took almost the same precautions as if declared enemies had landed in their country.

Another point of great utility, that will result from the perusal of this work, is the obtaining a clear, and candid account of the flourishing state of the French colonies in;it. Domingo; which, considering that the gentleman from whom we have it is a Spaniard, and consequently unexceptionable in his testimony* will suffice to give us a just idea of the prodigious advantages derived to France from their colonies in that island. He observes, with, great fans ness and freedom, tint the French are well entitled ta

fcafeFAdfc; attrit

tbe riches they acquire, from their industry and economy, since, though they occupy the worst part of the island, they are, out of all comparison, in a better condition than the Spanish inhabitants, who possess the better and more fertile part. He takes notice likewise, that though all correspondence between the 1 two nations- is forbidden under the severest penalties, it is notwithstanding open almost in the same degree as if there was no such prohibition; the reason is, because the French could scarce subsist, if they were not supplied with cattle from the Spaniards; and, on the other hand, the Spaniards must go naked, if they did not, by this means, obtain European commodities from the French; so idle'a thing it is to think of making a law against necessity! By the balance of this trade the French acquire annually about two millions of pieces of eight, which returns in hard silver, with sugar, indigo, and the other commodities of the growth of their part of the island, which i$ admirably cultivated, to the ports of France; and is a very considerable addition to the value of their otherwise rich cargoes*

But the Portuguese and French are not the only strangers into whose circumstances, and management of aifairs in America, our authors have enquired; the reader will find they took no less pains to make themselves well acquainted with the proceedings of the English. We have not only a full and distinct ac* count of the taking of Louisbourg, and of the conquest of the island of Cape Breton in the war before the last; but we have also a very copious memorial, drawn from the papers of the marquis de la Maison Forte, of the colony of New England, which he had an opportunity of framing while he remained a prisoner at Boston. It would have been the more satisfactory if we had had the whole of his memoirs; for

Vol. 1. b therf

XVIII

PREFACE.

there is great reason to judge, from this specimen, that he must have made much deeper researches than he communicated tp his Spanish friend, or, at least, than he judged expedient to communicate to the world; otherwise it is very hard to conceive upon, what he grounded his notion, that, in the space of a century, the people of New, wbuld be as numerous as those in Old England, and in a condition to give law to all the nations in North America. We have, besides, some very sensible, remarks upon the cod-fishery, and the advantages arising from it, as well as our disputes with the French in that part of the world. These speculations, though not always critically right, deserve our notice, and even our strictest attention. For, however we may be at liberty to conduct our own affairs, we cannot limit the humour, or controul the politics, of our neighbours; and therefore it is of great service, to be well acquainted with their notions. The great importance of this subject might have been, and certainly was, discovered long ago, by our politicians of the first order; but it is now become apparent to all ranks of people, and, if the expression may be allowed, from being the object sometimes of discussions in the cabinet, i§ at present become the topic of vulgar politicians.

Besides those that have been already touched, there are a great variety of curious, instructive, and pleasing incidents, in this performance, that cannot fail of giving satisfaction to the ingenious and intelligent reader: Such as the discussing the causes, why it never rains naturally at Lima, or the country of Valles In Peru; the enquiries into the frequency of volcanoes in South America; the materials, if we may so speak, on those subterraneous fires, the accidents by which they are kindled, and the conse-

sequences

PREFACE. XIX

quences of their explosions; the author's sentiments as to earthquakes, their extent and direction, the circumstances preceding and attending them, and their different effects in different places.

The value of this Fourth Edition is very much enhanced, by a number of curious, instructive, and explanatory Notes. These cannot fail of giving great satisfaction to the reader, as they serve to rectify some mistakes, and to set a variety of passages in a clearer light, from the writer's thorough acquaintance with the subjects treated in these voyages. He has also given a very accurate account of those parts of Brazil least known to us; and which may be therefore separated as a useful, as well as proper, supplement; and render the work, taken altogether, as complete as even a critical reader can desire.

h 2 CON-

CO NTENTS

or VOLUME THE FIRST.

BOOK L

CHAP. PAGB

I. ILfOTIFES for this voyage; design of measuring +"- several degrees of the meridian near the equator.

Departure from Cadiz. ' - - 1

II. Arrival at Carthagena* Description, situation, and

riches of that city* - - - - - 19

JII. Description of Carthagena Bay. - - S6

IV, Of the inhabitants of Carthagena. - -89'

V, Of the climate. Diseases incident to natives and fo-

reigners. - - - - 41

VL Description of the country, and of the trees and plants

in the neighbourhood of Carthagena. - - 48

VII. Of the beasts, birds, reptiles, and insects in the territories of Carthagena. - - -53

VIII. Of the esculent vegetable*; and food of the inhabitants of Carthajrena. - - - 6j)

IX. Of the trade of Carthagena, and other countries of America, on the arrival of Galleons, fyc. - 79

BOOK II,

TL Departure for Porto Bella, General winds and currents between Carthagena and Porto Bello. - 85

II. Description of the town of St. Philip de Porto Bello. 88

III. Description of Porto Bello harbour. - -91

IV. Of the climate. Distempers which prove fatal to the crews of the Galleons. - - - 93

T. Of the inhabitants, plants, trees, and animals about

Porto Bello. - - - -98

VI, Of the trade of Porto Bello. - - *03 v b3 BOQ£

3CX1X CONTENTS.

CHAP, BOOK III. PAG*

I. Voyage up the Chagre, and journey from Cruces to

Panama by land. - - - 107

II. Description of the city of Panama. - - 113

III. Of the climate and inhabitants of Panama. Fruits produced in the neighbouring country. - - 120

IV. Of the usual food oj the inhabitants, with other observations. - - - 123

V. Of the trade and commerce of Panama. - - 126

VI. Extent of the audience of Panama, in the kingdom of Terra Firma. Limits of that kingdom, ana the provinces which comppse it. * * - 138

BOOK IV.

I. Vovagefrom Perico to Guayaquil. - - 141

IT. Voyage from Perico to Puna. - - - 147

III. uf our stay at Guayaquil, and measures taken for a journey to the mountains. - - - 150

IV. Description of Guayaquil^ - - - 152

V. Of the inhabitants, customs, and riches. - - 156

VI. Temperature of the air; different seasons; inconveniences; and distempers. - - -158

VII. Previsions, and manner of living at Guayaquil. - ]6fi

VIII. Extent of the jurisdiction of Guayaquil. - 165

IX. Description of the river of Guayaquil. Houses on its banks. Vessels trading on it. Fish and amphibious animals frequenting it. - - - 177

X. Qf the commerce carried on betwixt the kingdoms of Peru, Terra firma, and the coast of New Spain. * 191

BOOK V,

I. Passage from Guayaquil to Caracol, and thence to

Quito. - - - - - 195

II. Difficulties attending our making the necessary observations for measuring the length of aii/arch of the meridian. Manner of our living during the operations. - - - -2U

III. The names of the deserts and other places, where the signals were erected for forming tlie series of triangles

~ ' ' for

CONTENTS* XXIII

CHAP. ^ #> PAGE

for measuring an arch of the meridian, and wJure the -company resided during the operations. - - 299

IV. Description of Quito. - - - 248

Vt Of the inhabitants of the city of Quito. - - 261

VI. Temperature of the air. Winter and summer. Inconveniences. Advantages. Diseases. - - 275

VII. Fertility of its territories, (common food of its inhabitants. - - - - - 281

VIII. Of the commerce of Quito. - - -291

BOOK VI.

I. Extent of the province of Quito, and the jurisdiction

of its Audience. - - - 294

II. Sequel of the account of its jurisdictions. - - 315

III. Account of the governments of Popayan and Ata-cames, belonging to the province of Quito. Discovery, conquest, and peopling of these countries. - SS2

IV. Description of the governments of Quixos and Ma-cas. Account of Jean de Bracomoras; discovery and conquest of it. - - - - 351

V. Description of the government of Maynas. The river

of the Amazons or Maranon. Account of the discovery and course of that river, and of those which fall into it. - - - - - 36S

VI. Of the Indians in the province of Quito. - - 401 VI l9 Historical account of the mountains, deserts, and

most remarkable cdrdilleras of the Andes. - 422

VIII. Sequel of the deserts. - - - 433

IX. Phenomena observed in the mountainous deserts, and other parts of this province; dexterity of American horses. Hunting matches, fyc. - - 442

X. Of the silver and gold mines in the province of Quito,

"* and the method of extracting the metal. - - 447

XI. Monuments of the ancient Indians of Quito; of gems and quarriesfound near this city. - - 460

^EXPLANATION

OF Tflfc

P LATE 5.

MATE I.—Page «6.

A PL A N of the bay of Carihagena. <+* A plan of the city ofXJarthagena*

PLATE IL—Page 92,

Plan of the harbour and town of Porto Belh. Plan of the city of Quito. a The sagrario. b St. Sebastian. c St. Barbariar d St. Iioque. e 5/. Mark. f St. Prisca,

g St. Blaize. h The Cathedral.

Dresses of men and women of Quito.

PLATE III.

A Map of South America.

PLATE IV.—Page 442.

FIG. 1.

View of the desert of Cotopaxi. a Phenomenon of the iris's, or rainbows, round the- head of the spectator, observed often on the deserts*

EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES. XXV

b A lunar rainbow, observed by Don George Juan. c The mountain of Cotopaxt, at the time of the eruption t»1749.

PIG. 2.

View of a torrent, and the manner of passing it. I A bridge of bejucos. b A tarabita,for the passage of horses. c A taraMta,jbr men.

pig, S. Works of the ancient Indians, found in their tombs.

a A tomb of the ancient Indians.

b Plan of a tomb, opened in the form of across*

c An idol of gold, or statue of some distinguished Indian.

d A hatchet, or axe, fixed in a javelin, ana used by the Indians in war.

t, f, g. Hatchets of different forms.

h, i, inca rirpos, or mirroirs, formed out of Ynca stone.

k A large pot, used by the Indians for holding their chica.

I Sunga tirana, or knippers, used by the Indians for pulling out superfluous hairs from the face, fyc.

,m Pendant of gold or silver for the ear.

a A convex mirroir.

o A hatchet of stone.

p, q, Guainacaba cruches, or earthen jars, for holding their liquor.

t A tupu, or large pin, for fastening the anaco on their shoulders.

f, t, Tubus, a sort of needles, used by the Indians in fastening the plaits of the anaco. v

PLATE V.—Page 468.

FIG. 1.

a A temple of the ancient Indians, near the village of Cay-

ambey tn the province of Quito. b Tombs of the ancient Indians. C A fortification or retrenchment of the Indians on the top of

a mountain. d The village of Cayambe.

fig. t.

View of the ruins of a palace of the Yncas, called Catto, near . the town of Latacunga, in the province of Quito.

A En*

XXVI EXPLANATION OF THB PLATES.

A Entrance of the palace*

B % Principal court of the palace.

C Apartments of the Yncas, divided into small chambers for the princes.

D Doors leading to the royal apartments.

E Parts, which were formerly subdivisions for the royal family.

F Others in the same taste, for the domestics.

G Offices for the use of the prince, with several small divisions for keening curious and savage beasts.

H Apartments for the guards.

K A mount called Panacillo, which served as a watch-tower, when the monarch was in his palace.

L A river, which has its source in the desert of Cotopaxi.

FIG. S.

The balza. v

a.'Theprow or head* b. The stern.

c The awning or tilt. j

D The poles or sheers, on which the sail is hoisted. e ~A kind of bowsprit.

SA guar a, drawn up. The fire hearth. i The bowling of the sail. k The back stays. 1 The deck. I, I, 1, Other guarasfor steering the balza.

fig. 4.

View of a palace and citadel of the Yncas, near the Village of

Canar. a Entrance of the palace and fortress. b The large court* or place of arms. c The citadel in the form of a donjon. d Barrarks or apartments for the guards. e The principal wall, f Steps for mounting the zyalls.

fThe apartments, having only one door to each. Lodgement for the soldiers. \, i, A river running before the palace. k, k, Another river, which, joining the former, surrounds the

whole structure. 1, \, I, Mountains surrounding the fortress;

3 PLATE

EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES. XXVIt

PLATE VI.—Vol. II. Page SO.

Apian of Lima.

The port of Cattao.

Different beasts, fyc. in tie kingdom of Peru.

Dress of the Peruvians.

PLATE VIL—Vol.11. Page £40.

PIG. 1.

Plan of the town of Cape Franfois, in the Island of St. t Domingo*

1 The church.

2 The college of Jesuits. 8 The place of arms.

4 Place of arms without the town.

5 The grand battery.

6 Caverns, or barracks.

7 The little battery. $ Mouth of the river.

fig. 2. >

Men of Chili*

fig* 3.

Manner of killing the beasts in Chili. 1 A mine, or quarry, of shells. 9, Manner of killing the beasts in Chili.

3 A pijaronino.

4 Sea wolves.

5 The inclosure, in which they confine the beasts intended for

the slaughter.

6 A Guaso on horseback, going to throw his noose at the beast.

A VOYAGE

A

VOYAGE

TO

SOUTH AMERICA-

BOOK I.

Reqfonsfor this Voyage; Navigation from the Bay of Cadiz to Cartbagena in America, and a Description of the latter.

CHAP. I.

Motives of this Voyage to South America, with Remarks on the Navigation between Cadiz and Cartbagena.

THE heart of man is naturally inclined to attempt things, the advantages of which appear to increafe in proportion to the difficulties which attend them. It fpares no pains, it fears no danger in attaining them ; and inftead of being diverted from its purpofe, is animated with frefli vigour by oppofi-tion. The glory infeparable from arduous enterprises, is a powerful incentive, which raifes the mind above itfelf; the hope of advantages determines the will, diminiflies dangers, alleviates hardfliips^ and le-Voi,. I, B vels

2 A VOYAGE TO Book L

vels obftacles, which oxherwife would appear unfur-mountablc. Delire tfnd refolution are not, however, always fufficient to enfure fuccefs; and the beft-con-certed meafures are not always profperous. Divine Providence, whofe over-rulipg and inconiprehenfible determinations dircdl the courfe of human actions, feems to have prefcribed certain limits, beyond which all our attempts are vain. The caufeshis infinite wlf-dom has thought proper to conceal from us, and the refult of fuch a conduct is rather an objecSl of our reverence than fpeculation.. The knowledge of the bounds of human* underftanding, a difcreet amufe-ment and exercife of our talents for the demonftra-tion of truths which are only to be attained by a continual and extenfive fludy, which rewards the .mind with tranquillity and pleafure, are advantages worthy of our higheft efteem, and objects \vhich cannot be too much recommended. In all times the defire of enlightening others, by fome new difcovery, has roufed the induftry of man, and engaged him in ^laborious refearches,. and by that means proved the principal fource of the improvement of the fciences. ^ Things which have long baffled fagacity and application, have fomefimes been difcovercd by chance. The firmeft refolution h^s often been difcouraged by the infuperable precipices, which, in appearance, en* circle his inveftigation. The reafon is, becaufe the obstacles are painted, by the imagination, in the moft lively colours ; but the methods of furmounting them efcape our attention; till, fmoothed by labour and application, a more eafy paffage is diieovered.

Among the difcoveries mentioned in hi#ory, whe-tber owing to accident or refle&ion, that of the Indies is not the leaft advantageous. Th$fe parts were for many ages unknown to the European$; or, at ieaft, the remembrance of them, was buried; in oblivion. They were loft through a long fucceffion of time, and disfigured by the. Confuiion and darknefs in

which

,

Ch. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 3

which they were found immerfed. At length the happy-sera arrived, when induftry, afliftcd by refolntion, was to remove all the difficulties exaggerated by ignorance. This is the epocKa which diftinguifhed the reign, in many other refpeds fo glorious, of Ferdinand of Arragon, and Ifabella of Caflile. Reafon and experience at once exploded all the ideas of ralhnefs and ridicule which had hitherto prevailed. 'It feems as if Providence permitted the refufal of other nations, to augment the glory of our own; and to reward the zeal of our fovereigns, who countenanced this important enterprife; the prudence of their fubje&s in the condudt of it, and the religious end propofed by both. I mentioned accident orrefle&ion, being not yet convinced, whether the confidence with which Chriftopher Columbus maintained, that weftward there were lands undiscovered, was the refult of his knowledge in cof-mography and experience in navigation, or whether it was founded on the information of a pilot, who had adtually difcovered them, having been driven on the coafts by flrefs of weather; and who, in return for the kind reception he had met with at Columbus's houfe, delivered to him, in his laft moments, the papers and charts relating to them.

The prodigious magnitude of this continent; the multitude and extent of its provinces; the variety of its climates, produ&s, and curious particulars; and, laftly, thediflanceand difficulty.of one part communicating with another, and efpecially with Europe, have been thecaufe, "that A'merica, though difcovered and inhabited in its principal parts by Europeans, is but imperfectly known by them ; and at the tame time kept them totally ignorant of many things, which would greatly contribute to give a more perfect idea of fo con-iiderable a part of our globe. But though invefiiga--tions of this kind are worthy the attention of a great ' prince, and the ftudies of the mod piercing genius among his fubjedts; yet this was not the principal 1 B 2 intention

4 A VOYAGE TO Book I.

intention of our voyage. His majefly's wife refolu-tion of fending us to this continent, was principally owing to a more elevated and important defign.

The literary world are no Grangers to the celebrated queftion that has lately produced fo, many treatifes on the figure and magnitude of the earth; which had hitherto been thought perfectly fpherieal. The prolixity of later obfervations had given rife to two oppofite opinions among philofophers. Both fuppofed it to be elliptical; but pne affirmed its tranf-.verfe diameter was that of the poles, and the other that it was that of the equator.. The folution of this problem, in which not only geography^ and cofmo-graphy are interefted, but alio navigation, aftrono-piy, and other arts and fciences of public utility, was what gave rife to our expedition. Who would have imagined that thefe countries, lately difcovered, would have proved the means of our attaining a per-fed knowledge of the old world; and that, if the former owed its difcovery to the latter, it would make it ample amends by determining its real figure, which had hitherto been unknown or controverted ? who, I fay, would have fufpe$ed that the fciences ftiould, in that country, meet with treafures, not lefe valuable than the gold of its mines, which has fo greatly enriched other countries ? How many difficulties were to be furraounted in the execution ! what a ferie$ of obftacles were to be overcome in fuch long operations, flowing from the inclemency of the climates; the difadvantageous fituation of the -places where they were to be made, and in fine, from the very nature of the enterprife! All thefe circumfiances infinitely heighten the glory of the monarch, under whofe aufpices the enterprife has been fo happily accomplished. This difcovcry was referved for the prefent age, and for the two Spaniih monarchs, the late Philip V. aqd Ferdinand VI. The former caufed the enterprife to , be carried into execitfipn, the latter honoured it with

his

j

Ch.L SOUTH AMERICA. 5

hid countenance, and ordered' the narrative of H to be ptiblifhed; not only for the information dnd in-ftrudUon of his own fubje&s, but alfo for thofe of other nations, to whom th§fe accounts will prove equally advantageous. Alnd, that this narrative may be ^ie more inftrudlive, w6 fhall introduce the particular circumftances which originally gave occanon to our voyage, and were in a manner the bafis and rule' of the other enterprifes, which will be mentioned in the fequel, each in its proper order.

The attention of the Royal Academy of Sciences at Paris, for the improvement of human knowledge, and its continual ardour to difcover.and apply the beft methods for that noble end, could not fit down contented Under the uncertainty concerning the real figure and magnitude of the earth ; the inveftigation of ^vhich had, for feveral years paft, employed the moft eminent geniufes of Europ6. This learned af-fenjbly reprefented to their fovereigo the neceflity of determining a point, the exa& decifion of which was of fuch great moment, efpecially to geography and navigation; and at the fame time laid before him a method of doing it. This was, to meafure fome degree of the meridian near the equator; and (as was done with great propriety after our departure) by mealuring other degrees under the polar circle, in order to form a judgment of the different parts of its circumference, by their equality or inequality, and from thence to determine its magnitude and figure. No country feemed fo proper for this as the .province of Quito in South America. The other countries under the eqiiino6lial line, both in Afia and Africa, were either inhabited by favages, or not of an extent Ibfficient for* thefe operations ; fo that, after the moft mature refle&ion, that of Quito was judged to be the only platte 'adapted to the plan in queftion.

Hts Moft Chriftian majefty Lewis XV. applied, by hts minifters, ta king Philip, that fome members

B3 ot

6 A VOYAGE TO Book ft

of his royal academy, might pafs over to Quito, in order to make there the neceflary obfervations; at the fame time fhewing the intention and unjyerfal ad-, vantage of them, and how very remote they were from any thing which terids to awaken a political jea-loufy. His majefty, perfuaded of the candour of this application, anddefirous of concurring infonoblg a defign, as far *s was confiftent with the dignity of his crown and the fafety of his fubjec^s, referred the matter to the council of the Indies : and, on their favourable report, the licenfe was granted, >with alt the neceflary recommendations and aflurances of thc^ royal protection to the perfons who were to repair tq Arnerica to make thefe obforvatjons. The patents, which" were made out for them on the i4tli and 20th of Auguft 1734, contained the moft precife orders to the viceroys, governors, &c. {n the countries through which they were to pafs, to-aic} and aflift them, to lhcvv them all friendihiJD and civility, and to fee that ino perfons exadied of them for their carriages or la^-bour more than the current price ; to which his majefty was pleafed to add the higheft proofs of his royal munificence, and of his zeal for the advancement o£ the fciences, and efteem for their profeflbrs.

This general regard of his majefty was followed by fome meafures, particularly defigned to promote the honour of the Spanifh nation, and to give his own iubje&s a tafle for the fame fciences. He appointed two officers of his navy, well Skilled in ma«* thematics, to join in the obfervations which were to be made, in ordeF to give them a greater dignity an4 a more extenfive advantage; and that the Spaniard^ might owe only to themfelves the fruits and improvements expected from them. His majefty alio conceived, that the French academicians, having, thefe officers in their company, would be more regarded by the natives; and, in the places througlrwhich they wece to pafs, all umbrage would be thus remove^ \-. .. ,. ;.: . . * -.\. <* * : - - froiq

i ,i

Ck. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 7

from perjfons who might not be fufficiently acquainted with, the,nature of their defign. Accordingly the commanders and directors of the academy of the royal Guardas Marinas received orders to recommend two perfons, whofedifpofitions not only promifed a perfe6t harmony and correfpondence with the French academicians, but who were capable of making, equally with them, the experiments and operations that might be neceffary in the courfe of the enterprife.

Pon George Juan, commander of Aliaga, of the order of Malta, fub-brigadier in the Guardas Marinas, equally diftinguifhed by his application to the mathematics and his faithful fervices to the crown, was, with myielf, propoled to his majefty, as qualified to contribute-to the fuccefs of fuch an enterprife. We had commiffions £iven us as lieutenants of men of war, and, with all neceflary inftrudtions, were ordered to embark on board two fhips fitting out at Cadiz, for carrying to Carthagena, and thence to Porto Bello, the marquis de Villa-garcia, appointed viceroy of Peru. About the fame time the French academicians were to fail in a fhip of their nation, and, byway of §t. Domingo, to join us at Carthagena, in order to proceed from thence in company.

The two men of war on board of which we had been ordered, were the Conquiftaddr of 64 guns, and the Incendio of 50 ; the former commanded by Don Francifco de Liano, of the order of Malta, commodore, and the latter by Don Auguftin de Iturriaga, by >vhom it was agreed that Don George Juan fhould go in the Conquiftador, and m.yfelf in the Incendio* We failed from Cadiz bay, May 26, 1735; but, the wind fhifttng, were obliged to put back and come to an anchor about half a league without Las Puercas.

On the 28th, the wind coming about to the N. E. we again fet fail, and continued our courfe in the manrfer related jn the two following Journals.

B 4 Joyrna}

t A VOYAGE TO Book I

journal of Don George Juan^ on board the> Conquijiador.

THE fecond pf June 1735, faw the Canary iflands; and the winds, which are ufually very variable in this paffage, were either N. W. by N. or N. E. Don George Juan, by his reckoning, found the difference of longitude between Cadiz and the Pico of Teneriffe io° 30'.

According to father Feuillee's observations, madq at Loratava, fix minutes and a half eaft of the Pico, the difference of the longitude betwixt the latter ana the obfervatoay at Pari3 is 18° 51'. Subtracting therefore 8° 27', which, according to the Connoiffance des Terns, is the difference of longitude between that ob-fcrvatory and Cadiz ; the difference of longitude between that city and the Pico is io°24', and confe-quently differs 6' from Don George's reckoning.

On the 7th we loft fight of the Canaries, and continued our courfe towards Martjnico, fleering fouth between 42 and 45 degrees wefterly, increafing the angle every day, till near the ifland, we fleered due weft under its parallel, and on the 26th of June discovered Martinico and Dominica.

The difference of longitude between Cadiz and Martinico appeared, from our reckoning, tohe59° 55', that is, 30 55' more th^n the chart of Antonio de Matos makes it; which is however generally followed in this voyage. According to the obfervatio'ns of father Laval, made at Martinico, the difference of longitude is 550 8' 45*'; according to thofe of father Feuillee, 550 19'. 'This error in a great meafure proceeds from s a want of accuracy in the log-line; for had thepilo$ of the Conquiftador, who found the fame defedt in his calculations, made the diftance between the knots of the log-line-30 Englilh feet, inftead of 47 and a

hal£

DigiLd by

Ck.J.1 SOUTH AMERICA. +

half, the difference of longitude, by account, would have been only 570. This error in marking the log-line is common both to the pilots of Spain and other nations; and this, like many other faults in navigation, remains uncorre<3ed for want of attention.

The diftance between the knots on the log-line ihould contain ths of a mile, fuppofing the glafi to run ' exactly half a mitiute: and though all agree in this re-fpedt, yet not ift the true length of the mile, which ought to be determined by the moft exa& menfura^ tions, as thofe of M. Caffini in France, ourein thd province of Quito, or thofe of M. Maupertuifr in Lapland. If the lebgth of the degree be computed ae«* cording to M. Caflini's meafures, 57060 toifes, a mw pute or geographical mile will contain 951 toifes, of 5706 royal feet, of which tts is nearly equal to 47 feet 6J inches; and as the Paris foot is to that of London as 16 to 15 *; this, when reduced to English meafure, makes near 50 feet 8$ inches* And this if the true diftance between each knot on the log-line.

This menfuration, which fhould have been hitherto fhe rule obferved, is not exadV, when compared to that which has been found from inveftigating theSgarc of the earth, which is difeovered to be very different frofti What it has been imagined > fotbat it is not furprifing that there fliould be found confiderablc differences in nautical calculations.

* According to the late regulation of the Royal Society of London, and the meafures fent by it to the Academy of Sciences at Paris, and with which 1 was favoured by Martin Folkes, Efq. the worthy pre* fident of that ibciety, the Paris foot is to that of* London as 864 to feu, which (hews bow erroneous thefe are pubKfhed by father Tofca*.

* Tho^ Paris foot i§ divided into 12 inches, and each inch into 12 lines; wherefore, if we fuppofe each line to be divided in 310 parts,

The Paris foot will be 1440 parts,

The London,. 1350.

Thefe proportions were fettled by the Royal Academy of Sciences at Paris, ia 0mr treadfc of the figure arid-magnitude of the earth, Part xi. Chap. 5, which Ihews the crroneoufheis of the above. A.

The

\

*o A VOYAGE TO Book L

The Author's Journal, on board the Incendio.

HAVING fet fail on the fame day, namely, the 28th of May 1735, and fteered S. between^ and 56 deg. wefterly, we perceived, on June 2, about fix in the evening, the ifland of Savages, one of the* Canaries; and on the 3d we faw Teoeriffe. I found the difference of longitude between Cadiz and Naga-point to be 11° 6', which agrees, with the Englifli and Dutch charts, but differs a little fcf>m the true lofogi-r tude determined by father Feuillee at Loratava, in tb§ fame ifland of Teneriffe.

On the 4th, we had fight of* the ifiands of Palma, Gomera, and Fer; but again loft fight of them on the 5th. On the 29th, about noon, we made Martinico, and continuing our courfe, paffed between that ifland and Dominica. The difference of longitude between Martinico and Cadiz bay, according to my reckoning, was 570 5', one degree more than San Telmo's chart makes it. But it is proper to obferve, that, in order to eflimate my courfe, and avoid the danger of finding a great difference at making land, I followed two different calculations, one according to the meafures commonly given by pilots to the diftance. between the knots on the log-line, of 47 Englifh feet and a half, and the other by reducing them to 47 royal feet; for though, in firi&nefs, it ought to have been 47 J of the latter, the difference being but fm^ll, I thought 4t beft to omit the half foot, that.my reckoning might be before the fhip. According to the firft method, the difference of longitude between Cadiz and this ifland was between 60 and 61 degrees, which nearly agrees with the Journal of Don George. . From Martinicp we continued our courfe towards Curafaoj which we had fight of July 3d. The difference

Or. I. SOUTH AMERICA. u

enge of meridians between that and Martinico, Don Qporge Juan found to be 6° 49', whereas I made it 7* 56'. The caufe of this difagreement was, that, finding a fenfible difference in the latitudes, I regulated myfelf by the currents, imagining, according to the opinion of all our navigators, that they fet to the N* W.; which Don' George did not, and by that means his reckoning anfwered to the real diftance betwixt thetc two iflands, and mine was erroneous; But that the water was in motion, is not to be questioned; for in all the latitudes from June 30, to July 3, thofe found by obfervation exceeded thofe by account, ig', 13', ^nd even 15 minutes; a fufficient proof that the cur-Tents run diredlly N. and not N. W.

From the 2d at fix in the morning, till: the day .we made Cura&o and Uruba, we had (hallow water, of a greeniih colour* which continued till ahout halt paft feven in the evening, when we entered the gulf.

Our courfe from Martinico to Curafao, during the twp firft days, was fouth 8i° weflerly; and the two Jalj fouth 64? weflerly From thence to Cartba* geda we kept at a proper diflance from the coaft, ft 3$ tq diflinguifti its moft noted capes, and inba* hited places. '

Pk the 5th we difcovered the mountains of St. Martha, fo well known for their height, and being all covered with fnow; and at fix in the morning we eroded at the current of thick water, which iffues with prodigious rapidity from the river de la Magdalena, and extends feV6ral leagues into the fea. About fix in the evening found ourfelves to the northward of Cape de Canoa, whete we lay to, and continued till feven in the morning, when we fet all our fails, which at eight in the evening brought us, under fort Bqca Chica, where we came to an anchor in 34 fathonv water, the bottom muddy. On the' 8th we endeavoured to get into Carthagena'biy, but could not before the 9th fecojrely xnodr our Ihip. < ' " PirpiNa

U A VOYAGE TO Book I.

Duuing out pafiage betwixt the Canary iflands, We had faint and variable winds, with fome fhort calms; but, after we had loft fight of them, the gates increased upon us, but moderate, and continued in this manner till we arrived Within 170 or 180 leagues of Martinico, when we had fqualls accompanied with violent rains. After paffing the Canaries, at about twenty leagues from thefe iflands, we had the wind at north-weft, and at the diftance of near 80 leagues it fhifted to E. and K N. £. We had nearly the feme in the middle of the Atlantic ocean, and afterwards the wind came about to the E. with different degrees of velocity; but the variation was not fuch as to occafion any inconveniency.

These are the winds generally met with in this voyage. Sometimes it veers away to the W. and W. N. W. though it is very feldom known to continue on thefe points. Sometimes long calms intervene^ which lengthen the voyage beyond the ufual time. All this depends on the feafons; and according to the time of the voyage, the weather and winds are more or left favourable. The winds above-mentioned are the moft general ; and the beft time for making ufe of them, as they then are fettled, is when the ftm approaches near the equator in his return from the tropic of Capricorn : for his approach to the autumnal equinox is the time when the calms moft prevail.

From the iflands of Martinkto and Dominica to that of Curafao and the coaft of Carthagena, the winds continued the fame as in the ocean, though more variable, and the weather lefs fair. 1 have fa id, that -about 170. leagues before we reached Martinico the winds were interrupted by fqualls; and thefe are more common beyond thofe iflands, and are immediately fucceeded by fhort calms; after which the wind frefhens again for half an hour, an hour, two hours, and fometimes longer. From whit quarter thefe%

tornadoes

€h. I. SOUTH AMERICA. j3

tornadoes or {quails proceed, I cannot pofiiively af-firm; but this is certain, that when they are over, the wind begins to blow from the feme point 33 before, and nearly with the lame force. And here it may be of ufe to obferve, that, on any appearance of thefe fqualls in the atmofphere, the utmoft expedition ttuft be ufed in getting the Ihip in readinefs, their impetuolity being fo fucjden as to admit of no time for preparatives; and therefore the leaft negligence may be attended with the moft fatal confequences.

In the voyage from Cadiz to the Canaries, in fome parts, though the winds are otherwife moderate, the lea is agitated by thofe from the N. and N. W. fome-times in large and long waves; fometimes in fmall but mofe frequent ones, which happens when the wind blows ftrongly along the coaft of France and Spain; for in the ocean the winds are fo mild, that the motion of the ihip is hardly perceived, which renders the paflage extremely quiet and agreeable. Within the , windward iflands, and even before we reach them, in the parts where thefe terrible fquails prevail, the fea is agitated in proportion to their violence and duration ; but no fooner is the wind abated, than the water be~N comes again clear and fmooth.

The atmofphere of the ocean anfwers to the calm-nefs of the winds and fea, fo that it is very feldom an obfervation cannot be taken, either from the fun's being obfeured, or the hazinefs of the horizon. This is to be underftood of the fair feafon; for otherwife here are dark days, when the air is filled with vapours, and the horizon very hazy. At all times it is feen filled with white and towering clouds, embellishing the iky with a variety of figures and ramifications, which amufe the eye, tired with being fb long confined to two fuch fimilar objedts as the fea and iky. Within the windward iflands the variety is ftill greater, the quantity of vapours profufely exhaled, fill* ing it in fucb a manner, that fometimes nothing but

clouds

i4 A VOYAGfe Td Boo* 1.

clouds arc to be fedn, though part of thefe are gradually difpeHed by the heat of the fun, fo that fome parts are quite clear, others obfcure; but a gdneral darktiefs during the whole day is never known.

It is well khown and allowed, that, through thd whole extent of the ocean, not the leaft current is perceivable, till we arrive within the iflands, where ill ibme parts they are fo ftw)g and irregular, that, without the greateft vigilance and precaution, a (hip will be in great danger among this archipelago. This fubjeft, together with the winds peculiar to this coafi, lhall hereafter be confidered more at large.

In the track to Martinico and Dominica there is a^ fpace where the water, by its white colour, vifibly diflinguifhes itfelf from the reft of the ocean. Don George, by his eftimate, found this fpace to terminate 100 leagues from Martinicb; whereas, according to my reckoning, it reached only to within 108 leagues; it may therefore, at a medium, be placed at 104. This' fmair difference, doubtlefs, proceeds from the difficulty of difcovering where thiswhitifh colour of the water terminates, towards Martinico. It begins at about 140 leagues from that ifland, which muft be underftood of the place where the different colours of the water are evident; for, if we reckon from where it begins to be juft difcernible, the diftance is not lefs than 180 leagues. This tra6l of water is a certain mark for directing one's courfe; becaufe, after leaving it, we have the fatisfadiion of knowing the remaining diftance: it is not delineated on any map, except the new one lately published in France ; though it would doubtlefs be of great ufe in them all.

Nothing farther remains, than to give an account of the variation of the needle in different parts in which we found the fhip by her latitude and longitude; a point of the utmoft confequence in navigation, not only with regard to the general advantage to mariners in knowing the number of degrees intercepted

between

Ch- I.: SOUTH AMERICA. 15

between the magnetic and true north of the world; bat alio as, by repeated observations of this kind, the longitude may be found, and we may know within a degree, or a degree and a half, the real place of the ihip; and this, is the neareft.approxiraation to which this has been carried by thofe who revived it at the beginning of this century. Among thefe the chief was that celebrated Englifhman, Dr„ Edmund Halley : in emulation of whom, many others of the fame nation, as alfo feveral Frenchmen, applied themfelves to the improvement of it. We already enjoy the fruits of their labours in the variation charts lately publitbed, though they are principally ufeful only in long voyages; where the difference of two or of even three degrees is not accounted a confiderable error, when there is a certainty that it cannot exceed that number. This fyflemf though new with regard to the ufe it is now applied to, is tar from being fo among the Spaniards and Por-tuguefe, very plain veftiges of it remaining in their old treatifes of navigation. Maniel de Figueyredo, cofmo-grapher to the king of Portugal, in his Hydrographia, or Examin de Pilotos, printed at Lifbon in 1608, chap. ix. and x. propofes a method for finding, from the variation of the needle, the diftance run in failing eaft and weft. And Don Lazaro de Flores, in his Arte de Navegar, printed in 1672, chap. i. part ii. quotes thifc author, as an authority to cqnfirm the fame remark made by himfelf; adding (chap, ix.) that the Portuguefe, in all their regulations concerning navigation, recommend it as a certain method. It muft however be acknowledged, that thofe ancient writers have not handled this point with the penetration and accuracy of the Englifh and French, aflifted by a greater number of more recent obfervations. And that the obfervations made in this voyage may be of the moft general ufe, I fhall infert thecii in the two following tables J previoufly informing the reader, that the longitudes correfponding with each are true, the

error

.

it A VOYAGE TO BookL

error of the courfe with Tegard to the difference of me-j&Uaas being corrected from the obfervations of the iathers Laval and Feuillee.

Variations obferved by Don George Juan, the Longitude being reckoned vtxeft from Cadiz.

Deg. of Lat.	Deg.	of	Variation		Variation by		Di	flfer-
Deg. of Lat.	Long. 11 OO		obferved.		the chart.		ence. ,
37 30	Long. 11 OO		8	00 W.	9	00W.	I	00
*5 3°	14	30	6	20	7	20	I	00
&4 00	*7	OO	4	30 \	6	OO	I	30
*3 20	18	30	3	30	5	OO	I	00
22 30	20	OO	2	30	4	30	2	00
ai 50	22	00	1	30	4	OO	2	3°
*i 35	26	OO	0	3°	3	OO	2	30
16 20	43	00	4	00 E.	2	30E.	2	00
15 4o	45	OO	5	00	3	20	I	40
Off Martinico			6	00	5	OO	I	00

Variations obferved by the Author, the Longitude being reckoned from the former Meridian.

Deg. of Deg. of Variation Variation by Differ-

Lat. Long. obferved. the chart.

ence.

36 20 00 25 9 30 W. 13 00 W. 3 30

31 23 08 22 7 00 10 30 3 30

30 11 ,10 21 6 00 9 30 3 3°

26 57 14 54 4 00 7 00 3 00

*5 52 l5 59 3 40 6 30 a 50

16 28 43 ,46 o 30E. 2 00E. 1 30

15 a° 47 32 a 3° 4 00 ^ 30

OffCapedelaVela 6 00 7 3° r 3?

To the above obfervations on the variation of the needle, compared with thofe on the variation chart, firft publilhed by the great Dr. Hallcy in 1700, and cor-

reded

Ch. I. SOUTH AMERICA. ifr

re&ed in 1744, from other obfervations and journ&lp byMeff. Montaine and Dodfon of London, I (hall add fome reflections, in order to expofe the negligence ill conftru&ing the magnetic needles. 1. It appears that the variations obferved by Don George Juan do not agree with mine, which is not to be attributed to a defied* in the obfervations. This is fufficiently evident from comparing them. 'The differences between thofe obferved by Don George and thofe on the chart, are nearly every where uniform; the moft confiderable be* ing a degree and 50 minutes; one making the variatiori a° 30', and the other a degree only. This probably arofe from the motion of the fbip, which hinders the needle from being entirely at reft; or from the difk of the fun, byreafon of intervening vapours, not being accurately determined, or fome other unavoidable accident ; the error, when the difference is lefs than a de-» gree, being fcarce perceivable in thefe obfervations. Thus, on a medium, the rational conclufion is, (hat the needle ufed in thefe obfervations varied a degree and4d minutes lefs than thofe when the map was conftru&ed.

TfcE fame uniformity appears in the differences between my obfervations and the chart; but it muft be obferved, that having ufed two different needles, the particulars of each nearly correfpond, fo that between the five firft, the greatcfl: difference is of 40 minutes^ which intervene between the fraalleft difference of 20 50% and the greateft of 30 30'. Hence, taking the raediuta between both, the difference between my obfervations and the chart will be 30 16', the latter being fo much lefs than the former. The three laft do not want thj$ operation, the difference of i° 3o/ being equal tn-kll, and the variations refulting from thefe ob* fervations are alfo lefs than thofe delineated on the map; the variation having paffed to a different fpe-cies; namely, from N. W. toN. E. Thisdemonftratesf that the firft needle I made ufeof, whether it had been ill touched or (he fleet not accurately placed, varied i* yf weflerly leis than that uted by Don George

Vta-1. C

J 8 A VOYAGE.TO Book I.

Juan ; and as tkis officer continued his obfervations to the end of the voyage with the fame needle, the difference, which at firfi was negative, on the variation changing its denomination became po(itive; and ' from my changing inflruments, the difference on my fide continued always negative. The reafon of this is, that the difference of the five firft obfervations proceeded lefs from a real difference in the variation, than from the poles of the needle, which was fo far from anfwering exadtly with the meridian-linfcon thecom-pafs-card, that it inclined towards the N. W.; the contrary happened in the fecond compafs made ufe of, its inclination being towards the N. E.; confequently, whatever the angle of that inclination was, it occa-fioned a proportionate diminution in the variation of a contrary fpecies.

These obfervations, thus compared, fhew the errors to which navigators are liable, for want of attention in making choice of proper needles, which they fhould be careful to procure, not only well made and exa<$, but alfo ftri6lly tried with regard to their inclination to the true meridian, before they venture to depend upon them in any voyage. In this point Spain is guilty of a .notorious neglect, notwithftanding it is evidently the fource of a thoufand dangerous errors; for a pilots in correcting thecourfe he has fleered, in making ufe of a oompafs whofe variation is different from the true, will confequently find a difference between the latitude by account and the latitude obferved; and to make the neceffary equation according to the rules commonly re* ceived in failing on points near the meridian, he muft either increafe or diminifh the difiance, till it agrees with the latitude, whereas in this cafe the principal error proceeded from the rhomb. The feme thing happens in parts where it is apprehended there may be currents; which often occur in failing when the latitude by account, and that by obfervation, difagree; though in reality the water has no motion, the difference proceeding entirely from making ufe of another varia-

X T tion

* % V^rOOgle "

Ch, I. SOUTH AMERICA. ." 19

lion in the courfe, than that of the needle by which the fliipis fleered ; as was the cafe with me in failing from Martinico to Curafao, and likewife of all the artifts on board the (hip. Another error incident to navigators, though not fo much their own, is to fleer the fhipbyone needle, and obferve the variation by another; fos though they have been compared, and their differences carefullyobferved, their motions being unequal, though at the beginning of the voyage the difference was only a certain number of degrees, the continual friftion of the former on the pivot, renders the point of the needle, on which it is fufpended, more dull than the other, which is only hung when they make obfervations, being at all other times kept with thegreateft care; and hence proceeds the change obfervable in their differences. In order to remedy this evil, all needles intended to be ufed at fea fhould be equally proper for obferving the variation ; and the obfervation made with thofe before placed in the bittacle; and, to improve the charts of variation, fhould be touchedin the lame manner, and adjufted to the meridian of a place,' where the exadl variation is known. Thus obfervations made in the fame places by different fhips, would not be found fo confiderably to vary; unlefs the interval of time between two obfervations be luch as to render fenfible that difference in the variation which has beftn obferved for many years paft, and is allowed of by all nations.

These are the caufes of the manifeft difference between needles; there may be others, but this is not tbe proper place for enumerating them.

CHAP. II.

Defcription of Carthagena.

ON the 9th of July 1735, we landed, and Don George Juan and myfelf immediately waned on tbe governor of the place. We were informed that the

C2 Freach

ao A VOYAGE TO Book I.

French academicians were not yet arrived, nor was there any advice of them. Upon this information, and being by our infirudtfons obliged! to wait for them, we agreed to make the beft ufe of our time; but were unhappily deflitute of inflruments, thofe ordered by his majeftyfrom Paris and London not being finilhed when we left Cadiz, but were forwarded to us at Quito loon after our arrival. We however fortuftateJy heard that there were fome in the city, formerly belonging to Brigadier Don Juan de Herrera, engineer of Carthagena $ by thefe we were enabled to make observations on the latitude, longitude, and variation of the needle. Wealfo drew plans of the place and the bay from* thole of this engineer, with the neceffary additions and alterations. * In thefe operations we employed ourfelves till the middle of November 1735, impatient at the delay of the French academicians. At length, on the 15th, a French armed veffel came to an anchor, during the night, under BocaChica; and to our great fatisfa&ion we learned, that the long-e^cpe&ed gentlemen were on board. On the 16th we vifited them, and were received with all imaginable politenefs by Mr. de Ricour, captain of a man of war, and king's lieutenant of Guarico, intheifland of St. Domingo; and Meff. Godin, Bou-guer, and de la Condamine, academicians, who were accompanied by Meff. Juffieu, botanift; Se*iiergues, furgeon; Verguin, Couplet, and Deffordonais, affo-ciates; Morenvile, draughtfman; and Hugot, clock-maker.

Our intention being to go to the equator with all poffible expedition, nothing remained but to fix on the moil convenient and expeditious route to Quito. Having agreed to go by the way of Porto Bello, Panama, and Guayaquil, we prepared to fail; in the mean time, by help of the inftruments brought by the academicians, we repeated our obfervations on the latitude, weight of the air, and the variation of the needle; the tefult of which will appear in the following defcrip-tion.

r tThe

VjOOQIC

Ck.IL SOUTH AMERICA. ai

The city of Carthagena ftands in id deg. 25 min. 48 I ice. north latitude; and in the longitude of 282 deg. 28 min. 36 fee. from the meridian of Paris; *nd . 301 deg. 19 min. 36 fee. from the meridian of Pico Teneriffe; as appeared from our obfervations. The variation of the needle we alfo, from feveral obfervations, found to be 8 deg. eafterly.

The bay, and the country, before called Calamari, were difcovered in 1502 by Roderigo de Baftidas; and in 1504 Juan de la CofaandChriftopher Guerra began the war againft the Indian inhabitants, from whom they met with greater refiftance than they expedled 1 thofe Indians being a martial people, and valour fo natural to them, that even the women voluntarily fliared in the fatigues and dangers of the war. Their ufual arms were arrows, which they poifoned with the juice of certain herbs; whence the flighted wounds were mortal. Thefe were fucceeded by Alonfo de Ojedfr, who fome years after landed in the country* attended by the fame Juan de la Cofa, his chief pilot, and Amerco Vefpucio, a celebrated geographer of thofe times ; but made no greater progrefs than the others, though he had feveral encounters with the Indians* Nor was Gregorio Hernandez de Oviedo more fortunate. But, at length, the conqueft of the Indians was accomplifhed by Don Pedro de Heredia, who, after gaining feveral viftories over them, peopled the tity in the year 1533, under the title of a government.

The advantageous fituation of Carthagena, the ex-_ tent and fecurity of its bay, and the great fhare it at- . tained of the commerce of that fouthern continent* fbon caufed it to be ere&ed into an epifcopal fee. The famcteircurfiftances contributed to its preservation and increafe, as the moft efteemed fettlement and ftaple of the Spaniards; but at the fame time they drew on it the hoftilities of foreigners, who, thirfting after its riches, or induced by the importance of the place, have feverai times invacfed> taken, and plundered it.

C 3 The

42 A VOYAGE TO Book 3>

. The firft invafion Was made foon after its eftablifh-ment in i544, by certain French adventurers, conduced by a Corfican pilot, who, having fpent fome time there, gave them an account of its iituation, and the avenues leading to it, with every other particular ne-ceflary to the fuccefeful condudt of" their enterprife; which they .accordingly effe&ed. The fecond invader >vas Francis Drake, terrped the dcftroyer of the new conquefls, who, after giving it up to pillage, let it on fire, and laid half the place in afhes ; and its fatal definition was.only prevented by a ranibm of a hundred and twenty thoufand iilvpr ducats paid him by the neighbouring colonies. #. ........ -

' It was invaded a third time in 1597, by the French, commanded by M. de Pointis, who came before the placfc with a large armament, confifling partly of Fli-jbuftiers, little better than pirates: bqt, as fubjefls tQ the king of France, were prote&ed by that monarch.' After obliging the fort of Boca 'Chica "to furrender, whereby the entrance of the bay was laid open, h6 landed his men, and befieged Fort JLaz^rb, which was followed by the furrender of the city. But the capitulation was no fecurity againft the rage of. avarice, which had configned it to pillage.

This eafy cbnqueft has by fome been attributed to a private correfpondence between the governor and Pointis; and what increafes the fufpicion is, that he embarked on board the French fquadron at its departure, together with all his treafures and effe&s, none of which had fhared in the general calamity.

The city is fituated on a fandy ifland, which forming a narrow paffage on the S. W. opens a communication with that part called Tierra Bomba, as far a^iBoca Chica. The neck of land which now joins them, waS formerly the entrance of the bay; but it having been clofed up by orders from Madrid, Boca Chica became the only entrance; and this alfo has been filled up fince the attempt of the Englifli in 1741, who, having made 1 themfelves

Ch. II. SOUTH AMERICA. z$.

themfelves raafters of the forts which defended it, entered the bay with an intent of taking the city; but tbey mifcarricd in. their attempt, and retined with considerable lofs. This event caufed orders to be dispatched for opening the old entrance, by which all fhips now enter the bay. On the north tide the land is fo narrow, that, before :tfhe wall was begun, the distance from fta to fea was only 35 toifes; but afterwards enlarging, forms another ifland on this fide, and the whole city is, excepting thefe two places which are very narrow, entirely furrounded by the fea., ^aft ward it communicates, by means of a wooden bridge, with* a large fuburb called Xexemani, built on another ifland, which has alfo a communication with the con-? tinent by means of another wooden bridge. The forti^ fications both of the city and fuburb arc conftru&ed in the modern manner, and lined with free-ft one. The garrifon in times of peace confifts of ten companies of regulars, each containing, officers included, 77 men ; befides feveral companies of militia*

In the fide of Xexemani, at a fmall diftance from that fuburb, on a hill, is a fort called St. Lazaro, commanding both the city and fuburb. The height of the hill is between ao and 21 toifes, having been geometrically meafured. It is joined to feveral higher hills, which run in an eaftern diredttonv Thefe terminate in another hill.of confidcrable height, being 84 toifes, called Monte de la Popa, and on the top of it is a convent of bare-vfooted Auguftipes, called Nueftra Senora de la Popa. Here is an enchanting profpedl, extending over the country and coaft to an immenfe difiance.

The city and fuburbs are well laid out, the ftrects being flraighti broad, uniform, and well paved. The boufes are built of ftone, except a few of brick; but confift chiefly of only one ftory above the ground-floor; tbe apartments well contrived. All the houfes have balconies and lattices of wood, as more durable in this pinnate than iron, the latter being fqon corroded and

C 4 deflroye4

a* a Voyage to book i.

deftjroyed by the moiflure and acrimonious quality of the nitrous air; from whence, and the fmoky colour pf the walls, the outlide of the buildings makes but an indifferent appearance.

The churches and convents of this city are the cathedral, that of the Trinity in the fuburbs, built by biihop Don Gregory de Mollcda, who alfo in 1734 founded a chapel of eaie dedicated to St. Toribio. The orders which have convents at Carthagena are thofe of {St. Francis, in the fuburbs, St. Dominic, St Auguftin, „ La Merced, alfo the Jacobines, and Recollets; a college of Jefuits and an hofpital of San Juan de Dios, The nunneries are thofe of St. Clara and St. Terefa. AH the churches and convents are of a proper architecture, and fufficicntly capacious; but there appears fomething of poverty in the ornaments, fome of them wanting what even decency requires. The communities, particularly that of St. Francis, are pretty nu^ merous, and confift of Europeans, white Creoles, and native Indians.

Carthagena, together with its fuburbs, is equal to a city of the third rank in Europe. It is well peopled, though moft of its inhabitants are defcended from the Indian tribes. It is not the mod opulent in this country, for, befides the pillages it has fufFered, no mines are worked here; fo that moft of the money feen in it m fent from Santa Fe and Quito, io pay the falaries of the governor and other civil and military officers, and the wages of the garrifon; and even this makes no long ftay here. It is not however unfrequent to find perfons who have acquired handfome fortunes by commerce^ whofe houfes are fplendidly furnithed, and who live in every refpeft agreeable to their wealth. The governor relides in the city,-which till 1739 was independent of the military government. In civil affairs, an appeal lies to the audier^e of Santa Fe; and a viceroy of Santa Fe being that year created, under the title of vicerpy of Jffew Granada, the government of Carthagena became 4 fubje^

Ch. II. SOUTH AMERICA. 25

fubjedt to him alfo in military affairs. The firft who filled this viceroyalty was lieutenant-general Don Se-baftian de Eflava ; who defended Carthagepa againft the powerful invafion of the EnglUh in 1741.

Carthagena has alfo a bifhop, whofe fpiritual ju-rifdidion is of the lame extent as the military and civil government The ecclefiaftical chapter is compofed of the bifhop and prebends. There is alfo a court of inquifition, whofe power reaches to the three provinces of Ifla Efpanola (where it was firft fettled), Terra Firma, and Santa Fe.

Besides thefe tribunals, the police and adminiflration of juftice in the city is under a fecular magiftracy, con-lifting of regidores, from whom every year are chofeft two alcaldes, who are generally perfons of the higheft efteem and diftin&ion. There is alfo an office of revenue, under an accomptant and treafurer: here all taxes and monies belonging to the king are received; and the-proper iffues directed. A perfon of the law, with the title of auditor de la gente de guerra, determines procefles.

The jurifdidion of the government of Carthagena reaches eaft ward to the great river de la Magdalena, and along it fouthward,till, winding away, it borders on the province of Antioquia; from thence it ftretches weft-ward to the river of Darien; and from thence northward to the ocean, all along the coafts between the mouths of thefe two rivers. The extent of this govtef n-raent from E. to W. is generally computed at S3 leagues; and from S. to N. 85. In this fpace are fcveral fruitful vallies, called by the natives favannahs; as tbofe of Zamba, Zenu, Tolu, Mompox, Baranca, and others; and in them many Settlements large and fnaall, of Europeans, Spanifh Creoles, and Indians. There is a tradition, that all thefe countries, together with that of Carthagena, whilft they continued in their native idolatry, abounded in gold; and fome yeftiges of the-old mines of that metal are ftill to be feen, in the neighbourhoods of Simiti San Lucas, aqd Guamaco;

*6 A VOYAGE TO Book I.

but they are now negle£ed, being, as imagined, exhausted. But what equally contributed to the richnefs of this country wfcs the trade it carried with Choco and Darien; from whence they brought, in exchange for this metal, thefeveral manufactures and works of art they flood in need of. Gold was the moft common' ornaracfit of the'Itidians, both men and women.

CHAP. HI.

Defcription of Carthflgena Bay.

CARTHAGENAbay is one of thebeft, not only on the coaft, but alio in all the known parts of this country. It extends i\ leagues from north to louth ; has a fufficient depth of water and good anchorage ; and fo fmooth, that the fhips are no more agitated than on a river. The many (hallows indeed, aft the entrance, on iome of which there is fo little water that even fmall veifels ftrike, render a careful fteerage ne-cfcflary. But this danger may be avoided, as it generally. is, by taking on board a pilot; and for further fecu-rity, his majefty maintains one of fufficient expert ence; parlof whofe employment is to fix marks on the dangerous places.

The entrance to the bay, as I have already obferved, was through the narrow ft rait called Boca Chica, a name very properly adapted to its narrownefs, figpi-fying in Spanifh Little Mouth, admitting only one fhip at a time, and even fhe muft be obliged to keep clofe ,to the fhore. This entrance was defended on the E. by a fort called St. Lewis de Boca Chica, at the extremity of Tierra Bomba, and by Fort St. Jofeph on the oppofite fide in the ifle of Baru. The former, after fuftaining, in the laft liege by theJBnglifli, a vigorous attack both by fea and land, and a cannonading of eleven days, its defences ruined, its parapets beat down, and all its artillery difmounted* was relinquiftied,. The enemy being thus mailers of it, cleared the entrance,

Tand

V^rOOQle %

oogle

" .**

Ch. III. SOUTH AMERICA. 27

and with their whole fquadron and armaments moved to the bottom of the bay. But, by the diligence and induflry of our people, they found all the artillery of fort Santa Cruz nailed up. This fort was alfo, from its largen^fs, called Caftillo Grande, and commanded all the thips which anchor in the bay. This, together with that of Boca Chica, St. Jofephy and two others, which defepdedthc bay, called Manzanillopqd Pafle-lillo, the enemy, enraged at their difappointment, de-molifhed when they quitted the bay. The promifing beginning of this invafion, as I have already obferved, gave occafioo to the Shutting up and rendering impracticable the entrance of Boca Chica, and of opening and fortifying the former ftrait; ib that an enemy would now find it much more difficult to force a paffage.

The tides in this bay are very irregular, and the fame jnay nearly be faid of the whole coaft. It is often feen to flow a whole day, and afterwards ebh$ avyay in four or five hours; yet the greatcft alteration ohferved in its ^epth is two feet, or two feet and a hjilf. Sometimes it is even lefs fenfible, and only to be perceived by the purrent or flow of the water. This cjreumftance in* preafes the danger of ftriking, though a ferenity continually reigns there. The bottom alfo taping compofed of a gravelly oO^e, whenever a fhip is aground, it often, happens that ihe muft be lightened before fhe can be made to float.

^Towards Boca Cbica, and two leagues and a half diflant from it feawards, there is a (hoal of gravel and Cparfe fand, on many parts of which there is not above a foot and a half of water. In 1735, the Copquiflador man of w^r, bound from Carthagena to Pqrto Bello, ftruck on thisJhoal, and owed her fafety eqtipely to a very extraordinary calm. Some pretended to fay that the fhoal was before known by the name of Salmedina; but the artifls on board affirmed the contrary, and that the fhoal on which fhe ftruck had never been heard of be-jfore. From the obfervations of the pilot$ and others,

Nuefira

18 A VOYAGE TO Book I.

Nuefira Senora de la Popa bore E. N. E. two degrees north, diftance two leagues; the caftle of St. Lewis de Boca Chica, E. S. E. diftance three leagues and a half, and the north part of Ifla Vofaria, fouth one quarter wefterly. It muft, however, be remembered that thefe ©bfervations were made on the apparent rhombs of the needle.

The bay abounds with great variety of fifh both wholefome and agreeable to the palate; the moft common are the fhad, the tafte of which is not indeed the moft delicate. The turtles are large and well taftcd. But it is greatly infefted with fharks, which are extremely dangerous to feamen, as they immediately feize every perfon they difcover in the water, and fotnetimes even venture to attack them in their boats. It is a common diverfion for the crews of thofe (hips who ftay any time in the bay, to fifh for thefe rapacious mongers, with large hooks fattened to a chain; though, when they have caught one, there is no eating it, the flefh being as it were a kind of liquid fat. Some of them have been feen with four rows of teeth} the younger have generally but two. The voracity of this fifh is fo prodigious, that it fwallows all the filth either thrown out of fhips, or caft up by the fea. I myfclf faw in the ilomach of one, the entire body of a dog, the fofter parts only having been digefted. The natives affirm that they h^ve alfo feen alligators; but this being a frefh-water animal, if any were ever feen in the fea, it muft be fomething very extraordinary.

In the bay the galleons from Spain wait the arrival of the Peru fleet at Panama; and on the firft advice of this, fail away for Porto Bello; at the end of the fair held at that town, they return into this bay, and, aftet taking on board every neceflary for their voyage, put to fea^gain as foon as poffible. During their abfence the bay is little frequented; the country veflels, which are only a few bilanders and feluccas, ftay no longer than is neceffary to careen and fit out for profecuting their 0 Toyage. CHAP.

Ch. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 29

CHAP. IV.

Of the Inhabitants of Carthagena.

rT"lHE inhabitants may be divided into different * cafts or tribes, who derive their origin from a coalition of Whites, Negroes, and Indians. Of each of thefe we ihall treat particularly.

The Whites may be divided into two cla(Tes,the Eu* ropeans, and Creoles, or Whites born in the country. The former are commonly called Chapetones, but are not numerous; moft of them either return into Spain after acquiring a competent fortune, or remove up into inland provinces in order to increafe it. Thofe who are fettled at Carthagena, carry on the whole trade of that I place, and live in opulence; whilft the other inhabit-

ants are indigent, and reduced to have recourfe to mean and hard labour for fubfiftence. The families of the White Creoles compofe the landed interefi ; fome of them have large eftates, and are highly refpe<Sled, becaufe their anceflors came into the country inverted with honourable pofls, bringing their families with them when they fettled here. Some of thefe families, in order to keep up their original dignity, have either married their children to their equals in the country, or fent them as officers on board the galleons; but others have greatly declined. Bcfides thefe, there are other Whites, in mean circumflances, who either owe their origin to Indian families, or £t leaft to an intermarriage with them, fothat there is fome mixture in their blood ; but when this is not difcoverable by their colour, the conceit of being Whites alleviates the preffure of every other calamity.

Among the other tribes which are derived from an intermarriage of the Whites with the Negroes, the first are the Mulattos. Next to thefe the Tercerones, produced from a White and a Mulatto, with fome approximation to the former, but not f<? near as to obliterate

their

3o A VOYAGE TO Book L

their origin. After thefe follow the Quarterones, proceeding frorg a White and a Terceron. The laft are the Quinterones, who owe their origin to a White and Quarteron. This is the lafi gradation, there being no vifible difference between them and the Whites, either in colour or features ; nay, they are often fairer than the Spaniards. The children of a White and Quinte-ron are alfo called Spaniards, and confider themfelves as free from all taint of the Negro race. Every perfon is fo jealous of the order of their tribe or caft, that if, through inadvertence, you call them by a degree lower than what they actually are, they are highly offended, never fuffering themfelves to be deprived of fo valuable a gift of fortune.

Before they attain the clafs of the Quinterones* there are feveral intervening circumftanccs which throw them back; for between the Mulatto and the Negro there is an intermediate race, which they call Sambos, owing their origin to a mixture between one of thefe with an Indian, or among themfelves. They are alfo diltinguifhed according to the calls their fathers were of. Betwixt the Tercerones and the Mulattos, the Quarterones and the Tercerones, &c. are thofe called Tente en el Ayre, fufpended in the air, becaufe they neither'advance nor recede. Children, thofe parents are a Quarteron or Quinteron, and a Mulatto or Terceron, are Salto atras, retrogrades, becaufe, inflead of advancing towards being Whites, they have gone backwards towards the Negro race. The children between a Negro and Quinteron are called Sambosde Negro, de Mulatto, de Terceron^ &c^

Thjese are the moft known and common tribes or Caftas ; there are indeed feveral others proceeding from their intermarriages ; but, being fo various, even they themfelves cannot eafily diftinguifli them.; and thefe are the only people one fees in the city, the eflancias *, and the villages; for if any Whites, efpe-

cially

* Eftancia properly fignifies a manfion, or place where one flops tfc^reft; but at Carthagena it implies a country-houfe^ which, by rea+

foa

-

Ch. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 31

cially women, arc met with, it is only accidental; thefe generally refiding in their houfes; at leaft, if they are of any rank or chira6>er.

These cads, from the Mulattos, all affe& the Spa-ni(h drefs, but wear very flight fluffs on account of the heat of the climate. x Thefe are the. mechanics of the city ; the Whites, whether Creoles or Chapitones, difdaining fuch a mean occupation, follow nothing below merchandife. But \t being impoflible for all to fucceed, great numbers not being able to procure fuf-ficient credit, they become poor and miferable from their averfion to thofe trades they follow in Eqrope ; and, inftead of the riche,s which they flattered them-felves with pofleffing in the Indies, they experience the moft complicated wretchednefs.

The clafs of Negroes is pot the leafl numerous, and is divided into two parts; the free and the flaves. Thefe are again fubdivided into Creoles and Bozares, part of which are employed in the cultivation of the haziandes *, or eftan<#ias. Thofe in the city are obliged to perform the moft laborious fervices, and pay out of their wages a certain quota to their mafters, fub-fifting themfelveson the fmall remainder. The violence of the heat not permitting them to wear any clothes, their only covering is afmall piece of cotton fluff about . their waift; the female flaves go in the fame manner. Some of thefe live at the eflancias, being married to the flaves who work there ; while thofe in the city fell in the markets all kind of eatables, and dry fruits, fweet-meats, cakes made of the maize, and caflava, and feve-ral other things about theftreets. Thole who have children fucking at their breafl, which is the cafe of the ge-, nerality, carry them on their fhoulders, in order to have their arms at liberty; and when the infants are hungry,

fon of the great number of flaves belonging to it, often equals a confiderable village.

* Hazianda in this place fignifies a country-houie, with the lands belonging to it,

they

3i A VOYAGE TO Book I.

they give thcra the breaft either under the arm or over the fhoulder, without taking them from their backs* This will perhaps appear incredible ; but their breads, being left to grow without any preflureon them, often hang down to their very waift, and are not therefore difficult to turn over their fhoulders for the convenience of the infant.

The dreis of the Whites, both men and women, differs very little from that worn in Spain. The perfons in grand employments wear the fame habits as in Europe ; but with this difference, that all their clothes are very light, the waiftcoats and breeches being of fine Bretagtie linen, and the coat of fome other thin fluff. Wigs are not much worn here; and during our ftay, the governor and two or three of the chief officers only appeared in them. Neckcloths are alfo uncommon, the neck of the fhirt being adorned with large gold buttons, and thefe generally fuffered to hang loofe. On their heads they wear a cap of very fine and white linen. Others go entirely bareheaded, naving their hair cut from the nape of the neck *. Fans are very commonly worn by men, and made of a very thin kind of palm in the form of a crefcent, having a flick of the fame wood in the middle. Thofe who are not of the White clafs, or of any eminent family, wear a cloak and a hat flapped ; though fome Mulattos and Negroes drefe like the Spaniards and great men of the country.

The Spanifh women wear a kind of petticoat, which they call pollera, made of a thin filk, without any lining; and on their body, a very thin white waiilcoat; but even this is only worn ip what they call winter, it being infup-portable in fummer. They however always lace m fuch a manner as to conceal their breaflsw When they go abroad, they wear a mantelet; and on the days of

* Here, and in molt parts of South America, they have their hair cut fo (hort, that a Granger would think every iwau had a wig,, ' but did not wear it on account of the heat.—A,

precept*

Ch.,IV. SOUTH AMERICA. $$

precept, thejr go to mafs at three in the morning, in order to difcharge that duty, and return before the vio* lent heat of the day, which begins with the dawn *.

Women Wear over their pollera a taffety petticoat, of any colour they pleafe, except black; this is pinked all oyer, to fhew the other they wear under it. On the head is a cap of finfc white linen, covered with lace, in t*he fhape of a'triitre^ and, being well ftarched^ terminates forward' in a;p64ttt. This they call panito, and neve* appear abroad without it, and a mantelet on thdr fhoulders. The ladies, and other native Whites, nfe this as their undre6, and it greatly becomes them ; for having been ufcd to it from thctir in* fancy, they Wear it with a better air. Inftead of Ihoes, they bnly wear, both within and without doors, a kind of flippers, largfe enoogh only to contain the tip of their' feet. In fh<*;honfe their whole exercifc confifts in fitting in thtfir hammocks <f», abd fwingihg themfelves:fo^air. This; is fo general a citftom, that there is ndV i houfe withbut two or three, according to the riutober of thfe family. In thefe they pafs the greater' pkrt of the day; and often mew, as well as women1, (ftecp' in them, Without minding the inconye* niehcy 6f not flretching the body at foil length.

Bdf h fexcfs are poflefled of a great deal of wit and penetration, and alfo of a genius proper to excel in all kinds*of mechanic arts. This is particularly con<* fpicuotW' in \htofe Wh<> apply thetfnfelves to literature, $nd wft'oi at-a tefrdeP age, fhfew A judgment and pett-fpicacity, which, in other climates; is attained only by a long fttfflj 6f y^atfef and the greateft application* This* happy dityofliion and perfpicacity continues till they are bfctweten twenty and thirty years of age, after

** The <htot ii iflconfideraMe, compmd with that erf the aftcfr ftcton, till half an hour after ftlnnft. A. ,

t Thefe Jiammocks are made of twifted cotton, and commonly knit in the'manner of a net, ano^ make no fmall part or the traffick «f the Indian*? by vfitom they are chiefly rftede. A*

Vol. X. D which

3$ .^TOTflGETfflf ^ Book I,

ecivetf**.r This k thteir food; their lodging is the entrance of tbetfjuares anjd the porticos of churchles, till (heir good fortune throws & hem in the way-of hiring thenrfdves to feme trader going up the country; who wants a ferfrant.' The city merchants, ftanding in no> need of then*, dWcotiBtetaance thele adventurers* Affb&iedby the difference-of the climate, aggravated by bad 'food, dejected and torturfed by the entire dif-appoi»tanewt of their ronrantftc hoptes, they fell ink) a thoafand evils, which canriot .' well be reprefented% and atnpng others, that diftemper called Chapeto* nada, or the diflemper of the Ohapetones, without any other foccour to fly <o, than Divine Providence for none find admittanceikito the hofpital of St. Juan de Dios, but thofe who ate able to pay, and, confe-qtiently, poverty becomes ap abfolute exclufiom Now it is that the charity of thefe people becomes confpicuous; The Negro and Mulatto free women, moved at1 their deplorable condition, carry them to their houfesi and nuirfe them with the grcateft eare and afle<SHd>n>. If any one die^ they bury him by the charity they ptocure, and ev;en: caufe maflfes to be (aid for him* The general iffiae of thisenidfeartfrg benfcvo^ lence is, that theChapetone, on. his recovery, during the fervour of his gratitude;, marriee ekher his Negro or Mulatto bewefatftflcfe, or.one of her daughters; and ^us he becomes* fettled, bAt much more wretGhecHy -than he could have beert in hi6 own'country, with ibnly his own labour tofubfifl on*

The difiotereftedneft of thefe people is fuch, that their cortopaflion towards the GUapetones rwuft not be imputed to the hop^s 6f producing a marriage, it being very common for thenar to refufe fucfa offers*

* This is caBcd Man^ioc by4 tKe*natavw^Jind is thscfeief fubftitute "the poorer people have for bread'; and,fo far from being rejected eveu by the richer, that many prefer it to bread faade from the beft European flour,, much more to bifcuh, which after fucfi a voyage gene-- sally teg'ms to be full of weevils; A.

either

Ch.IV. SOUTH AMERICA. ' $j

cither with regard to themfelres or thtir daughters, that their mifcry may not be perpetual, ktit endeavour to find than matters whom they may attend up the country, to Santa Fe, iV)py*n, iiuito, and Peru, whither their inclination or profpedts lead tbcrn. . They who remain An the city, whether bound by one of the above awriage*, o\ which is but too com*-mx)Q, are in another condition very dangerous .to their future bappinefs, turn PulperGB * j Canoeros, or (hefo-j&je mean occupations: in all which, they are fo har rafled-with labour, and their^ragefifo^imaJl, that their condrton in their own country muft 'have been miiet-rable indeed, if they have not reafon tonegret quitting it. The height of their enjoyment,, aften toiling aU day and part of the night, is to regale with bananas; a cake of maize or cafava, which fcrves fonbrcad, and a (lice of cafajo, or hung-beef; without tailing wheat luread during the whole year.

Qths&$, not a few, equally unfortunate, retiie to (bme fmall eftancia, where, in a Bujio, or ftraw hut; they lire little different from beafls, cultivating, in a Very irnall fpot, fuch vegetables as are at hand, and fubfifling on the fale of them.

What has been obferv^d with regard to the Negro and Mulatto women, and which may alfo be extended to the other cafts, is, as to the charitable part, appli*-cable to all *He women and whites; who, in every tribe, are of a very mild and amiable difpofition ; and from their natural »foftnef$ and fympathy excel the men in the pradiice of that Chriflian virtue.

Amomto the reigning cuftorhs here, fome are very different from thofe ofHSpain, or the moft know;n parts of.£ufape» The principal of.thefc are the ufe of hratidy, chocolate; hon^y,. fkeetme»t$4iand fmor king tobacco; pll which dhali be takfen notice of*

* Pulp^ros $re map who work in a-kind of tent, called in Spanifti Ptjiperk>$; artd tlie CapdefW are watermen who carry goods in Pi* $*g»esor>$aitoe*.*

p $ t»

3$ -A VOYAGE TO % Book T.

Thr ufe of brandy is fo common, that the moft regular ahd fober perfons never omit drinking a glafs of it every morning about eleven o'clock; alleging that this fpirit ftrengthens the flomacb, weakened by copious and confiant perfpiration, and fharpens the ap£eti,tei rfazer las onze, to take « whet at eleven, that is, to drink a glafs of brandy, is the common in* vitation. This cuftom, not cfteemed pernicious by thefe people, when ufed with moderation, has degenerated into vice; many being fo fond of it, that, during the whole day, they do nothing but hazer las onze. Perfons of diftindlion ufe Spanifh brandy; but" the lower clafs and Negroes very Contentedly take up with that of the country, extracted from the juice of the fugar-cane, and thence called Agoa ardente dc canna, or cane brandy, of which fort the cpnfumption is much the greateft.

Chocolate, here known only by the name of cacao, i§ fo common, that there i? not a l^egro Have but conftantly allows 'himfelf a regale of it after break fa ft; and the Negro women fell it ready made about the ftreets, at the rate of a quarter of a real (about five farthings fterling) for a difh. This is however fo far from being all cacao, that the principal ingredient is maize ; but that ufed by the better fort is neat, and worked as in Spain. This they con* ftemtly repeat an hour after dinner, but never ufe it fafling, or without eating fomething with it.

THEf alfo make great ufe of fweetmeats and honey; qever fo much as drinking a glafe of water without previoufly eating fome fweetmeats. Honey is often preferred, as the tweeter, to conserves or other fweetmeats cither wet or dry. Their fweetmeats ar$ eaten with-'wheat bread, which they ufe only with thefe and chocolate; the honey they fpread on cafava cakes. »

The paffion for fmoking is no lefs qniverfal, prevailing among perfons of all ranks in both fexes. The

ladie*

Ch. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. "39

ladies and other white women 4moke in their houfes, a decency not obferved either by the women of the other cafts, nor by the men in general, who regard neither time nor place. The manner of ufing it is, by /lender rolls compofed of the leaves of that plant*; and the women have a particular manner of inhaling the fmoke. They put the lighted part of the roll into their mouths, and there continue it a long time without its being quenched, or the fire incommoding them. A compliment paid to thofe for whom they profefs an intimacy and efleem, is, to light their tobacco for them, and to #hand them round to thofp who vifit them. To refufe the offer would be a mark of rudenefs not eafily digefted ; and accordingly they are very cautious of paying this compliment to any but thofe whom they previoufly know to be ufed to tobacco. This cufiom the ladies learn in their childhood from their nurfes, who are Negro flaves; it is fo common among perfons of rank, that thofe who come from Europe eafily join in it, if they intend to make any confiderable ftay in thexountry.

One of the moft favourite amufements of the natives here, is a ball, or Fandango. Thefe are the dif-tinguifhed rejoicings on feftivalsand remarkable days. But while the galleons, guarda coftas, or other Spa-nifh Ihips are here, they are moft common, and at the fame time conduced with the leaft order; the crews of the fhips forcing thehifelves into their ballrooms. Thefe diverfions, in houfcs of diftin&ion, are conduced in a very regular manner; they open with Spanifh dances, and are fucceeded by thofe of the country, which are not without i^ririt and grace-fulnefs. Thefe are accompanied with iinging, and the parties rarely break up before daylight.

The Fandangos, or balls, of the populace, confift principally in drinking brandy and wine, intermixed with indecent and feandalous. motions and geftures; jiq4 thefe continual rounds of drinking foon give rife

4o A VOYAGE TO* N Book I.

to quarrels, which often bring on misfortunes* ,When flrangers of rank vifit the city, they are gepe-#rally at the expenfe of thefe balls; as the entrance is free, and no want of liquor, they need give themfelves no concern about the want of company.

Their burials and mournings are fomething lingular ; as in this particular they endeavour to difplay .their grandeur and dignity, too often at the expenfe of their tranquillity 4 If the deceafed be a perfon of condition, his body is placed on a pompous Catafalco, creded on the principal apartment of. the houfe, amidft a blaze of tapers. In this manner the corpfe lies twenty-four hours or longer, for friends to vifit it at all hours ; asalfo the lower clafs of women, among .whom it is a cuftom to lament over the deceafed.

These women, who are generally drefled in black, come in the evening, or during the night, into the apartment where the corpfe lies; and having approached it, throw themfelves on their knees, then rife and extend their arms as |o embrace it; after which* they begin their lamentations, in a doleful tone, mixed with horrid cries, which always conclude with the name of the deceafed; afterwards they begin, in the fame difagreeable vociferations, hishiftory, rehearfing ..all his good and bad. qualities, not eyen omitting his amours of any kind, and in fo circumftantial a narrative, that a general fconfeffion copld hardly be more full; at length, quite fpeqt, they withdraw to a corner ftpred with brandy and wine, on which they never fail plentifully to regale themfelves. As thefe depart ^from the body, others fucceed, till th6y have all takdn their turn. The fame, afterwards, is repeated ,by the fervartts, flaves, and acquaintance of the family, which continues, without intermiffion, during the remainder of the night; {whence rnay eafily be imagined the confufion and i^toife qcc^fioned fry tl*i? d,tf-xpal vpcifcroys cerempny. v

Thb

< /

Ch. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 41

The funeral alfo is accompanied with the like noiff lamentations; and even after the corpfe is deposited in the grave, the mourning is continued in the houfe for nine days, during whiqh time the Pacientes or mourners, whether men or women, never Air froot the apartment, where they receive the Pefanes, or compliments of condolence. During nine nighty from fun-fet to fun-rifing, they are attended by their .relations and intimate acquaintances; and it may be truly faid of them, that they are. 4U fincerely forroff-ful; the mourners for the lofs of the deceafed, and the vifitors from the uneaiinefs and fatigue of fo ant* comfortable an attendance.

CHAP. V.

Of the Climate of Cartbagena, and the Difeapts incident to Natives and Foreigners.

THE climate of Carthagefta is exceffively hot, for* by obfervations we made on the 19th of Noyem-ber 1735, ty a thermometer conftru&ed according to Mr. Reaumur, the fpirit was elevated to 1025$; and in our feveral experiments, made at different hours, varied only from 1024 to 1026. By experiments made the feme year at Paris on a thermometer of the feme gentleman, the fpirit rofe on the 16th of July at 3 in the afternoon, and on the 10th of Auguft at half an hour after 3, to 10254, and this was the greateft degree of heat felt at Paris during that year,; confequently the degree of beat in the hotteft day at Paris, is continual at Cartbagena.

But th? nature of this climate chiefly difplays it-felf from the month of May to the end of November, the ieafon they qall winter; b<3caufe„ during that time, there is alnwft a continual fpeceflion of thunder, rain, &nfl iotfyppfjU} theclpuds {^e^ipitatiqg the/run* with

iuc&L

\

4t A VOYAGE! TO Book I.

fpch tmpetdofity, that the fireets have the appearance of "rivers, and the country of an ocean. Xhe inhabit-ants make ufe of this opportunity, otherwife ib drcad-fpl, for filling their cifterns ; this being the only fweet water they can procure. Beiides the water faved for private ufes, there are large refervoirs on the baftions, th$t the town may not be reduced to the fhocking con-fequence of wanting/water. There are indeed wells in moft houfes; but the water being thick and bract-ifh, is not fit to drink, but ferves for other ufes.

From the middle 9f December to the end of April, fhe rains ceafe, and the weather becomes agreeable, the heat being fomething abated by the N. E. winds which then i'ei in. This feafon they call fummer; 1>efictes which, there is another called the little fummer of St, John, as,* about the feflival of that faint, the rains are intermitted, and refrefhing gales begin to :How, and continue about a month.

The. invariable, continuance of fuch great heats, without any fenfible difference between night and <day, occasions fuch profufe perfpiration, that the wan and livid complexion of the inhabitants would make '« ftranger fufpedfc they were juft recovered from fome terrible diftemper. * Their actions are conformable to their colour; in all their motions there is fomething lax and fluggifh; it even affe&s their fpeech, which is foft and flow, and their words generally broken* But notvvitbftanding all thefe appearances of ficknefs and debility, they enjoy a good fiate of health. Strangers from Europe retain their ftrength and ruddy colour poffibly for three or four months; but afterwards both fuffer fuch decays from the exceffive perfpiration, that thefe new comers are no longer to be aiftinguifhed by their countenances from the old inhabitants. Young perfons are generally moft affe&ed <by the climate, which fpares the more aged, who pre-ferve their vivid countenance, and fo confirmed a ftafe of health as even to reach their 8oth year and

upwards r

Ch. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 4$

upwards: this is common among all the clafies of io? habitants.

The liitgularity of the climate, in all probability, occaiions Jhe Angularity of fame of the diitempers, which here affedt the human race; and thefe may be confidered in two different lights; one, as only attacking the Europeans newly landed, /and the other, as common both to Creoles and Chapjtones.

Those of the firft kind are, in the country* commonly called Chapetonadas, alluding to the name given there to the Europeans, Thefe difiempers are K> very deleterious, that they carry off a multitude of people, and thin the crews of European (hips; but they feldom laft above three or four days, in which time the patient is either dead or out of danger. The qature of this diftemper is but little known, being caufed in fomeperfons by cold, and in others by in-digeftions; it foon brings on the vomito prieto, or black vomit, which is the fatal fymptom; very, few being ever known to recover. Some, when the vomit attacks them, are feized with fuch a delirium, that^ jycre they not tied down, they would tear themfelves to pieces, and thus expire in the midft of their furious paroxyfms. It is remarkable, that only the new* comers from Europe are fubje& to this dmeraper, and-that the natives, and thofe who have lived fome time here, ere never afle&ed by it; but enjoy an uninterrupted Hate of health,amidftthe dreadful ha vock it makes dmong others. It isalfo obferved to rage more among the gommon feamen, than thofe who have been able to live on more wholefome food ; whence, fait me^t has been confidered as pernicious in bringing on this diftemper, and that the humours it produces, together with the labour and hardfhips of the feamen, incline their blood to p.utrefa&ion, and from this putrefaction the vomito prieto is itbppofed to have its origin. Not that the failors are its only victims, for even paf-iengers, whp poffibly have not tailed anyYalt meat

during

"

** A VOYAGE TO Book I.

taring the voyage, often feel,its effe#s. Another remarkable circumftance is, that perfons who have been once in this climate are never after, upon their return again, fubjedt to this diftemper ; but enjoy the fame ftate of health with the natives, even though they do. not lead the moft temperate lives/

The inveftigation of the caufe of this ftrange djf-temper has exercifed the attention of all the furgeong in the galleons, as well as the phyficians of the country;, and the refult of their relearches is, that they impute it to the food, labour, and hardships of the feamen. Doubtlefs thefe are collateral caufes; but the principal queftion is, why perfbns exempt from thofe inconveniences, frequently die of the distemper ? Unhappily, after all the experiments th*t have been made, no good method of treatment has been difcovered; no fpecific for curing it, nor prefervativc againft it. The fytaptoajs arq fo vague, as fometimes not to be difiinguifbed from thgffe of flight indifpofitions; and though the vomit be the determinate fymptom, the fever presecjing it is ob-ferved to be very oppreflive, and extoemely a|Fe#ing 4o the head.

This diftemper does not ihew itfdf immediately after the arrival of the European flaps in the hay, nor lias it been long known here; for what wa* formerly called Chapetonadas, were only indigeftiws, which, though always dangerous in thefe climates, were, wrtk Jittle difficulty, cured by remedies prepared by the women of the country, and which are .ftill ufec( with fuccefs, efpecially if taken in the. beginning. The ihips afterwards going, to Porto Bello, were there firft attacked by this tetrible difeafe,, which has ftlwfajs been attributed to the inclemency of the climate, and ihe fatigue of the feamen in unloading theihips, and drawing the goods during the fair* i

The vomito prieto was unknown atCarthageua,*nd *11 along the coaft, till the yeass 172^ an# 1730,

la

Ch. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 45

In 1729, Don Domingo Juft;niani, commodore of the guarda coftas, loft fo confiderable a part of his (hips' companies at Santa Martha, that the furvivors were ft ruck with aflonifhment and horror at the havock made among their comrades. In 1730, when the galleons under Don Manoel Lopez Pintado came to Carthagena* the feaxnen were feized with the fame dreadful morta-Hty; and fofudden were the attacks of the difeafe, that peribns walking about one day, were the next carried to their graves.

Thb inhabitants of Cartbagena, together with thofe in the whole extent of its government, are very fubjeft to the mal de $anLazaro; or leprofy, which feemsilill to gain ground. Some phyficians attribute the prevalence of it to pork, which is here a very common food; but it may be obje&ed, that in other countries* where this flcrfh is as frequently eaten, no fuch effects aite feetj, whence it evidently appears that fome latent. quality of the climaiemuft alfo contribute to it. In-' order to flop the contagion of this diftemper, there ip without the city, ati -hofpital called San Lazaro, not far from the Ijill*on whidhi« a caftle of the fams nameu In this hofpital all perfons of bath fexes labouring un~ der this diAemper are confined, without any diflino tion of age or rank; and if any refufe to go, they* are foicibly carried thither. But here the difiemper increases among themfelves, they -being permitted to intermarry, by which means it is rendered perpetual. Belides, their allowance being here toofqanty to fub-fift on, they are permitted to beg in the city; and from their intercourfe with thofe id health, the number of lepers never decreafes, and is at prefent fo con*-fidef&ble, that their hofpital refembles a little town. Every perfon at his entering this ftru&ure, where he is to continue daring life, builds a cottage called in the country bujio, proportional to his ability, where he lives-in the fame manner as before in his houfe, the prohibition of not going beyond the limits prefcribed

him* ,

46 A VOYAGE TO , Book t

him, unlefs to afk alms in the city, only excepted. The ground on which the hofpital ftands isfurrounded by a wall, and has only one gate, and that always carefully guarded.

Amipst all the inconveniences attending this difc temper, they live a long time under it, and fome even attain to an advanced age. It alfo greatly increafes the natural defire of coition, and intercourfe of the fexes; fo that, to avoid the diforders which would refalt from indulging this paflion, now almoft imjSof-fible to be controlled, they are permitted to marry.

If the leprofy be common and contagious in this climate, the itch and herpes are equally (6, efpecially among^ Europeans, who are not feafoned to the climate ; and, if neglected in the beginning, it is dangerous to attempt a cure yvhen cuftom has rendered them natural. The remedy againfl them, in the.firft ftage, is a kind of earth called maquimaqui, found in the neighbourhood of Carthagerta, and, on the account of this virtue, exported to other parts*

Another very lingular difiemper, though not fo common, is the cobrilla, or little fnake, being, as the inoft fkilful think, a tumour caufed by certain malig-gnant humours, fettled longitudinally between the membrane of the Ikin, and daily increafing in length, till the fwelling quite furrounds the part affedted, which is ufually the arm, thigh, and leg? though fometimes it has been known to fpread itfclf all over thefe parts. The external indications of it are, a round inflamed tumour, of the thicknefs of a quarter of an inch, attended with a flight pain, but not vehe-> ment, and a numbnefs of the part, which often terminates in a mortification. The natives are very Ilealful 'in removing it by the following procefs. They firft examine where (according to their phrafe) the head is, to which they apply a fmall fuppurative plafter, and gently foment the whole tumour with oil. The next day the ikin under the plafter is found divided, and

through

Ch. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 47

through the orifice appears a kind of white fibre, -about the fize of a coarfe fewing thread; and this, according to them, is the cobrilla's head, which they carefully fallen to a thread of filk, and wind (he other end of it about a card, rolled up like a cylinder. After this tjicy repeat the fomentation with oil, and the following dayv continue to wind about the cylindric card the part of this fmall fibre whidh appears in fight. Thus they proceed till the whole is extracted, and the patient entirely cured. During this operation their chief care is not to break the cobrilla; becaufe, they fay, it would then caufe a humour to fpread through the body, and produce a great quantity of fuch little fnakes, as they will have them to be, when the cure would become extremely difficult. It is a current notion among them, that when it has, for want of care in the beginning, completed the circle, and, ac-c6rding to them, joined its head with its tail, the dif-eafe generally proves fatal. But this is very feldom, the cafe; the pain warning the patient immediately to apply a remedy, which fhould be accompanied with emollients for difperfing the humour.

These people firmly believe it to be a real cobrilla of fmall fnake, and accordingly have called it by that name. At its firfl appearance, a fmall flow amotion may indeed be perceived; but this is foon over, and poflibly proceeds from the compreffion or exten-fion of the nervous fibres which compofe it, without its having any animal life. I do not, however, pretend to determine abfolqtely on this point.

Besides thefe, another diftemper common in this country is the fpaftn, or convulfion, which always

r'oves mortal, and feldom comes alone. And of this fhajl fpeak when I defcribe other parts of America, where it is equally dangerous, and more common.

CHAP,

ligitizedby

4* A VOYAGE TO Book t

CHAP. VI..

Dtfcripfion of the Country, and of the Trees and Vegetables in the Neighbourhood of Cartbagena.

THE country about Carthagena is fo luxuriatat, that it is impoffible to view without admiration the rich and perpetual verdure of the woods, and plants it naturally produces. But thrffe ate advantages of which the natives make little ufe; their innate fioth and indolence not allowing them to cut* tivate the gifts of nature, which feem to have been dealt out with a lavifti hand. The interwoven branches: of the trees form a fhelter impenetrable both to heat and light.

The trees here are large and lofty, their variety admirable, and entirely different fromthofe of Europe* The principal of thefe for dimenfions are, the caobo or acajou, the cedar, the maria, and the balfam tree; Of the firft are made the canoes and champaned ufed for filhing, and the coaft and river trade, within the jurifdi<9ibn of this government. Thefe trees produce no eatable fruit; but their wood is compact, fragrant, and .beautiful. The cedar is of two kirictei wbrte and reddifh; but th$ laft moft efleemed. Tb6 maria andi tlac balfem trees, belides the ufefuli^fs o£ their timber, diftit* thofe admirable balfamfc catted maria oil, and balfam*'of Tolu, fo called from a village in the neighbourhood of which it is found in tha greateft quantity, and of a peculiar excellency.

Besides theie trees, here are alfo the tamarind, the medlar, the fapote, the papayo, the guayabo, the cannafiftulo or caffia, the palm, the manganillo, and fevcral others, rooft of them producing a wholefome and palatable fruit, with a durable and variegated wood. The man<janillo is particularly remarkable; its name is derived from the Spanifh word manjan,

Ch.VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 4$

an apple, which the fruit of this tree exa&ly refefflbles in fhape, colour, and flavour^ bjut contains, under this beautiful appearance, fuch a fubtle poifon, that its effects are perceived before it is tailed. The tree is large, and hs branches form near the top a kind of crown ; its wood hard, and. of a ycllowifh tin<ft. On being cut, it iflues out a white juice, but not unlike that of the fig-tree, lefs white and of a thinner confidence ; but equally poifonous with the fruit itfelf 5 for if any happens to drop on any part of the flefh, it immediately caufes an ulcer and inflammation, and, unlets fpeedy application be ufed, ibon fpreads through all the other parts of the body * ; fo that it is neccf-fary, after felling it, to leave it till thoroughly dried* in order to its being worked without danger 5 and then appears the beauty of this wood, which is exquilitely variegated and veined like marble on its yellow ground. Upon tafting its fruit, the body immediately fwells, till the violence of the poifon, wanting fuf* ficient room, burfts it; as has been too fully confirmed by feveral melancholy inftances of European fail<*rs who have been fent on ihore to cut wood. The lame unhappy confequence alfo attended great Jiuin^ bers of Spaniards at the conqueft of thefe countries, till, according to Herrera, common oil was found to be the powerful antidote to this fubtle poifon.

But fuch is the malignity of the mancjanillo, that if a perfon happens to fleep under it, he is foon awaked, and finds his body fwelled almoft as much as if he had actually eaten the fruit-f-; and continues in great

* The juice dropping, on the flefh generally caufes art inflammation ; but 1 do not remember ever to have feen*an ulcer produced, or any very bad effe&s, the hot burning pain excepted. A.

f The author is here tnifinformed. Indeed pertbns, uitoiiave flept under the tree, hare afterwards complained of an head-ach. Thofe who happen to take ihelter under it in a fhovier, generally feel the fame effect from the dropping of the leaves, a* though the juice had dropt on them* A*

Vou I. JE danger

50 A VOYAGE TO Book T.

danger and tortures, till Relieved by repeated anointings and the ufe of cooling draughts. The very be%(^ them&lves, by their natural inftindt, are fo far (rum, eating its fruit, that they never approach the tree.

The palm-trees, rifing with their tufted heads above the branches of the others, form a grand perfpe&ive on the mountains. Thefe, notwithftanding the difference is fcarce perceivable, are really of different kinds, as is evident from the diverfity of their fruit. They diftinguifh four principal fpecies: the firft produce Coco ; the fecond dates, of a very pleafant tafte i the third, called pal ma-real, whofe fruit, though of the fame figure, but fomething lefs than the d^te, is not at all,palatable, but has a very difagreeable tafte; and the fourth, which they call corozo, has a fruit larger than dates, of an exquifite tafte, and proper for making Cooling and wholefpme draughts. The palmitos, or branches of the palma-real, are agreeably tafted, and fo large as frequently to weigh from two to three ar-robas The other fpecies alfo produce them, but neither in fuch plenty, nor fo fucculent. Palm-wine is alfo extra&ed from all the four; but that from the palma-real and corozo is much the beft. The manner pf making it, is either by cutting down the palm-tree, or boring a hole in the trunk, in which is placed a tap, with a veffel under it for receiving the liquor, which, after five or fix days fermentation, becomes fit for drinking. The colour of it is whitifh; the tafte racy: it bears a greater head than beer, and is of a very inebriating quality. The natives, however, reckop it cooling, and it is the favourite liquor of the Indians and Negroes. The guaiacum and ebony trees are equally common ; and their hardnefs almoft equal to that of iron. Thefe fpecies of wood are fometimes carried into Spain, wnere they are greitly efteemed, but here they are difregarded from their great.plenty.

* The arroba is *5 poqnds.

AMON9

Ch.VL SOUTH AMERICA. \ 51

- Among the variety of vegetables, which grow under (%e fhade of the trees, and along the funny borders of tne woods, the moft common is the fenfitive; oti touching one of the leaves of which, all thofe on the fame branch immediately clofe again ft each other. After a fhort interval, they begin gradually toopen and feparate from each other, till they are entirely expanded. Th£ fenfitive is a fmall plant about a foot and a half or two feet in height, with a flender ftem, and the branches proportionally weak and tender. The leaves are long, and fland fo clofe together, that all on one branch may be confidered as a fingle leaf, four or five inches in length, and ten lines in breadth; which, being fubdivided into the other flill fmaller, forms in each of them the true leaf, which is about four or five lines in length, and not quite one in breadth^ On touching one of thefe fmall leaves, all of them immediately quit their horizontal pofition, and fly into a perpendicular direction, doling their inward fuper-iicies, fo that thofe, which before this fenfitive motion made two leaves, now feem as but one. The vulgar name of this plant at Carthagena being improper to be mentioned here, we fhall omit it; in other parts it is more decently called la vergonoza, the bafhful, and la don$ella, the maiden. The common people imagine that this effeft is caufed by pronouncing its name at the infiant of the touch; and are amazed that a plant fhould have the wifdom of fhewing . its obedience to what was ordered, or that it was too much affected by the injury offered it to conceal its refentment.

We afterwards meet with this plant at Guayaquil, where the'climate feems to be better adapted to it than that of Carthagena; for it is not only more common, but grows to three or four feet in height, the leaves and every part in proportion.

In the woods about Carthagena are found a great quantity of bejucos of a different magnitude, figure, and colour, aqd fome of the Items fiat. One ff>ecies is

£ 2 particularly

jz A VOYAGE TO Book I.

particularly known on account of its fruit called ha-billa de Carthagena, the* bean of Carthagena. It is about an inch broad, and nine lines in length, flat, and in the fhape of a heart. The Ihell, though thin, is hard, and on the outfide fcabrous. It contains a kernel refembling an almond, but lefs white, and extremely bitter. This is one of the moft efte&ual antidote? known in that country againfi the bites of vipers and ferpents; for a little of it being eaten immediately after the bite, it prefently flops the effe&s of the poifon ; and accordingly all who frequent the woods, either for felling trees or hunting, never fail to eat a little of this habilla fading, and repair to their work without any apprehenfion. I was informed by an European, who was a famous hunter, and by feveral other perfons worthy of credit, that, with this precaution, if any one happened to be bit by a ferpent, it was attended with no ill confequence. The natives tell you, that, thia habilla being hot in the higheft degree, much of it cannot be eaten, that the common dofe of it is lefs than the fourth part of a kernel, and that no hot liquor, as wine, brandy, &c. muft be drunk immediately after taking it. In this cafe they doubtlefs derive their knowledge from experience. This valuable habilla is alfo known in other parts of America near Carthagena, and goes every where by its name, as being the peculiar product of its jurifdidlion.

CHAP. VII. .

Of the Beafis, Birds, Reptiles % and In/efts, in the Territories of*Carthagena.

FROM the trees and plants in this jurifditfion, we fhall proceed to the different kinds of animals; fome of which.are tame for the ufe and pleafurc of its inhabitants; others wild, and of fuch different qualities

Ch. VII. SOUTH AMERICA. 53

tics and kinds, as wonderfully difplay the diverfity which the Author 0/ nature has Ihewn in the multitude of his works. The quadrupeds and reptiles frequent the dry and defert places, and are diftinguifhed by an endlefs variety of fpots, whilft the vivid plumage of the feathered race glows withexquifite beauty; and the brilliant fcales of another kind conceaf the mod aciive poiibns. ♦

Tub only tame eatable animals are the cow and the hog, of which there are greal plenty. The beef, though not abfolutely bad, cannot be faid to be palatable. The conftant heat of the climate preventing the beafls from fattening, deprives their flefh of that fuc-culency it would otherwife have acquired: the pork is delicate, and allowed not only to be the beft in all America, but even to exceed any in Europe. This, which is the ufuai food of Europeans and Creoles at Carthagena, betides its palatablenefs, is alfo looked .upon to be fo wholcfome, that even lick perfons are allowed it preferably to poultry, which is here very good and in great abundance.

i must not omit a lingular ftratagem pra&ifed here for taking wild gee(ef the extreme cheapnefsof which naturally inclined us to alk how they caught them in fuch quantities : in anfwer to our queflion, we received the following account. Near Carthagena, to theeaft-ward of Monte de la Popa, is a large lake called la Cienega de Tefcas, abounding with filh, but reckoned unwholefome. The water of this lake, communicating with theofea, is fait, but without increafe or decrealifc the difference of the tides here being iufigniiicant. Every evening vaft flights of geefe retire hither from all the neighbouring countries, as their natural place of reft during the night,, The perfons who catch thefe birds, throw into the lake about 15 or 20 large cala-balhes, which they call totumos; aqd the geefe, being accuftomed to fee thefe calabalhes floating on the water, never avoid them. In three or four days the

E 3 perfons

54 A VOYAGE TO Book L

perfons return early in the morning to fhe lake, with another calabafh, having holes in it for feeing and breathing. This calabafh he places on his head, and walks in the water, with only the calabafh ibove the furface. In this manner, with all poffible ftillnefs, he moves towards the geefe, pulling them under w^ter with one hand, and then feizing them with the other. When he has thus taken as many as he js able to ' carry, he returns towards the fliore, and delivers them N to his companion, who waits for him at a certain dif-tance in the water. This done, he renews his fport, either till he has taken as many as he defires, or the birds begin to difperfe over the country.

Other perfons make it their bufinefs to procure different kinds of game, as deer, rabbits, and wild boars, called here fajones; but thefe are eaten only by the country Negroes arid Indian?, efccept the rabbits^ which meet with a good market in the city..

The wild beafts are alfo of various kinds; as tigeys, Which make a great havock, not only among the cat? tie, but among the human fpecies. Their fkin is very beautiful, and fome are as large as little horfes*. Here are alfo leopards, foxes, armadillos, a Hhd of ibaly lizard; ardillas, or fquirrels, and many others\ befides innumerable kinds of monkies living in thfc woods, fome remarkable for their fize, others for their colour. The artifice generally obferved by the fox, in defending itfelf againfi dogs or other animals, by whom it is purfued, by voiding its urine on its own -tail and fprinkling it on them, effeflually heneanfwers the intention; the fmell of it being fo firongand fetid^ that it throws the dogs into diforder, and thus the fox efcapes. The flench of this urine is fo great, that it may be (melt a tfuarter of a league from the place; and very often for half an hour after. The fox here is not much bigger than a large cat; but delicately Ihaped; has a very fine coat, and of a cinnamon f They are not larger than mafliff dogs. A,

colour;

Ch. VII. SOUTH AMERICA, 55

colour; but no large brufli on its tail. The hair however is fpungy, and forms a bunch proper for the above-mentioned method of defence.

Nature, which has furnifhed the fox with fuch an effectual defence, has not forgot the armadillo, the name of which partly defcribes it., The fize of it is about that of a common rabbit, though of a very different (hape; the fnout, legs, and tail, refembling thofc of a pig. His whole body is covered with a ftrong fhell, which,anfwering exadlly every where to the irregularities of its ftru&ure, protects it from the infults of other animals, without affe&ing its activity. Be-fides this, he has another, as a helmet, connected by a joint to the former; this guards his head, ynd thus he is every way fafe.

These fhells are variegated with feveral natural re* . ILevos, as it were, in chiaro ofcuro, fo that they are at once hjs defence, and a beautiful ornament. The Negroes and Indians, who eat its flefh, give a high character of it

Among the monkiesof this country, the moft common are the micos, which are alfo the fmalleft. They are generally about the (izfc of a cat, of a brownifh colour; and too well known to need any further de-fcription. The larger kind, which are lefs known, ( ihall defcribe in another place.

The birds feen in this hot climate are (o numerous, that it is impoflible to give a diftin<5t reprefentation of them; particularly ofthe beauty and brilliancy of their various plumage. The cries and croakings of fome, mixed with the warblings of others, diflurb the plea* fure which would flow from the melody of the latter, and render it impoflible to diftinguifh the different cries of the former; and yet in this inftance we may obfeirve the wifdom of Nature in diflributing her fa* vours; the plumage of thofe birds being the moll beautiful, whofe croakings are the moft offefifive; while, on the other hand, thofe whofe appearance has

]B 4 nothing

GooQle

5* A VOYAGfe TO Book*L

nothing remarkable excel in the fweetnefs of (heir notes. This is particularly evident in the guacamayb, the beauty and 1 ufire of whofe colours are abfolutely inimitable by painting; and yet there is not a more fhrill and difagreeable found than the noife it makes: this is in a great meafure common to all other birds, whofe bills are hard and crooked, and their tongue thicker than ufual, as the parrots, the cotorras, and the pcriquitos. All thefe birds fly in troops, fo that the air often founds with their cries.

But of all the Angularities among the feathered race, nothing is more remarkable than the bill of the tulcan, or preacher. This bird is about the fize of a common pigeon, but its legs much larger ; its tail is ihort, and its plumage of a dark colour, but fpottcd with blue, purple, yellow, and other colours; which have a beautiful effeft on the dark ground. Its head is beyond all proportion to its body, but otherwife he would not be able to fupport his bill, which, from the root to the point, is atleaft fix or eight inches, and the upper mandible has, at its root, a bafe of at leaft an inch and a half, of a triangular figure, whofe apex is at the point of thfe bill. The two lateral fuperficies form a kind of elevation on the upper part; and the third receives the lower mandible, which clofes with the upper through the whole length ; fo that the two parts are every where perfe6tly equal, and from their root narrows infenfibly, till near the top, where it fud-denly becomes incurvated, and terminates in a firong and iharp point. The tongue is formed like a feather, and*of a deep red colour, like the whole infide of its mouth. The bill is variegated with all thofe bright colours which adorn the plymage of other birds. At the bafe, and alfo at the convexity, it is

fencrally of a light yellow, forming a kind of riband alf an inch in breadth. The reft is of a fine deep purple, except two ftreaks near the root, of a rich fcarlet, an inch diftant from each other. The inward

Digitized Joy

Ch..V«. SOUTH AMERICA. 57

\vard flefhy parts, which touch when the bill is clofed, are furnifhcd with teeth, which form the furface of its two ierrated mandibles. The name of preacher has been given to this bird from its cuflom of perching on the top of a tree above his companions, while they are afleep, and making a noife refembling ill-articulated founds, moving his head to the right and left, ifi order to keep oftthe birds of prey from feizing on the others. They areeafily rendered fo very tame, as to run about in houfes, and come ^hen called. Their ufual food is fruit; but the tame eat other things, and in general whatever is given them.

To flefcribe all the other extraordinary birds would engage me in a prolixity of little entertainment or ufe; but 1 hope a word or two on the galliiiazos will be excufed. This bird fs about the fize of a pea-hen^ but the neck and head fomething larger. From the crop to the bafe of the bill, inflead of feathers, it has at wrinkled glandulous and rough fkin, covered with fmall warts and tubercles. Its feathers, are black, which is alfo the colour of this fkin, but ufually with fomething of a brownifh tindl. Its bill is well proportioned, flrong, and a little crooked. They are {0 numerous and tame in the city, that it is not uncommon to fee the ridges of the houfes covered with them. They are alfo very ferviceable, for they clean the city from all kinds of filth and ordure, greedily devouring any dead animal, and, when thefe are wanting, feek other filth. They have fo quick a feent, that they will fmell at the diftance of three or four leagues * a dead carcafe, and never leave it till they have entirely reduced it to a lkeleton *f. The infinite number of

thefe

* The author fhould have faid miles, A.

f It is furprifing to fee what numbers of thefe birds gather round the carcafe of a de?d whale, which is no uncommon thing ©n thefe coafts. *The carcafe fhall be covered with them; and yet their number fhall be nothing in comparifon to tHat hovering about, waiting for their turn, for which they often fighfc They

arc

58 A VOYAGE TO Book I.

tbefe birds found in fuch hot climates, is an excellent provifion of nature, as «otherwife tlje, putrefadHon caufed bytheconflant andexceffiveheat would render the air infupportable to human life. At firfl they fly heavily, but afterwards dart up out of fight. On the ground they hop along with a kind of torpor, though their legs are ftrong and well proportioned. They have three toes forward turning inwards, and one in the infide, turned a little backwards; fo that, the feet interfering, they cannot walk with any agility, but arc obliged to hop or fkip. Each toe has a long and thick claw.

When the gallinazos find no food in the city, their hunger drives them into the country, among the beaft$ in the paftures ; and on feeing any one with a fore on the back, they imipediately alight on it, and attack the

Sart affedted. It is in vain for the poor beaft to en-eavour to free itfelf from thefe devourers, either by rolling on the ground, or hideous cries; for they pever quit their hold, but with their bills fo widen the wound that the creature foon expires.

There is another kind of gallinazos, forhewhat larger than thefe, only to be met with in the country. In fome of thefe the head and part of the neck are white, in fome red, and in others a mixture of both thefe colours. A little above the beginning of the crop, they have a ruff of white feathers. Theie are equally fierce and carnivorous with the former; and called the kings of the gallinazos; probably becaufe the number of them is but few : and it is obferved, that when one of thefe has fattened on a dead beaft, none of the others approach till he has eaten the eyes, with which he generally begins, and is gone to another part, when they all flock to the prey.

Bats are very common all over the country; but Cartbagena is infefted with fuch multitudes of them,

are fddom above a fortnight in making a (keleton of a large whale. A.

that

Ca: VII. SOUTH AMERICA. 59

that after fuhfet, when they begin to fly, they may, without any hyperbole, be faid to cover the ftreets like clouds * They are the moft dexterous bleeders both of ' men and cattle; for the inhabitants being obliged, by the exce(five heats, to leave open the doors and windows of the chambers where they fleep, the bats get in, and if they happen to find the foot of any one bare, they infinuate their tooth* into a vein, with all the art of the moft expert furgeon, fucking the blood till they are fatiated, and withdraw their tooth; after which the blood flows out at the orifice. I have been aflured, by perfons of the ftrifteft veracity, that fuch an accident has happened to them ; and that, had they not providentially awaked foon, their fleep would have been their paffage into eternity; they having loft fo large a quantity of blood, as hardly to be able to bind up the orifice. The pun&ure not being felt is (befides the great precaution with which it is made) attributed to the gentle and refrefliing agitation of the air by the bat's wings, hindering the perfon from feeling this flight pun6ture by throwing him into a deeper fleep. Nearly the feme thing happens to hdrfes, mules, and affes; but beafts of* a thick and hard ikin are not ex-pofed to this inconveniency.

' We fhall next proceed to the infefts and reptileb, in which nature has np lefs difplayed its infinite power. The great number of them is not only an inconvenience to the inhabitants, but health and even life itfelf often fuffej^ from the malignity of their poifon.* The principal are the fnakes, the cicntopies -f-, the fcor-pions, and the fpiders; of all which there are different kinds, and their poifons of different activity.

P They are almoft as large as rats; and the infide of the rqofs of the outhoufes aj-e generally lined with them. A.

+ Or hundred feet. They are very common throughout the warmer regions of America. Common fait is a fpecific againft their bite, as alto against the fling of the fcorpion. A.

Of

60 A VOYAGE TO Book I.

Op the fnakes, the moft common, and at the fame time themoft poifonous, are the corales, or coral-fnakes, the cafcabeles, or rattle-fnakes, and theculebras de be-juco *. The firfl are generally between four and five feet in length, and an inch in diameter. They make a very beautiful appearance, their fkin being all over variegated with a vivid crimfon, yeliovv, and green. The head is flat and long, like that of the European viper. Each mandible is furnifhed with a row of pointed teeth, through which, during the bite, they infinuate the poifon; the perfon bit, immediately fwells to fuch a degree, that the blood gufhes out through all the organs of fenfe, and even the coats of the veins at the extremit^s of the fingers burft, fo that he foon expires. The cafcabel or rattle-fnake ieldom exceeds two feet, or two feet and a half, in length ; though there are fome of another.fpecies, which are three and a half. Its colour is brown, variegated with deeper lhades of the fame tin6i; at the end of its tail is the cafcabel or rattle, in the form of a garvanzo or French-bean pod, when dried on the plant, and Jike that has five or fix divifions, in each of which are feveral fmall round bones; thefe, at every motion of the fnake, rattle, and thence give rife to its name. Thus nature, which has painted the coral fnake with fuch fhihing colours, that it may be perceived at a diftance, has formed the latter in fueh a manner, that, as its colours render it difficult to diftinguilh it from the ground the rattle might give notice of its approach.

The culebras de bejuco, which are very numerous, have their name from their colour and ihape refem-bling the branches of the bejuco, and, as they hang down from that plant, appear as real parts of the be-Juco, till a too near approach unhappily difcovers the mi flake j and though their poifon be not fo active as

* They are called Cobras by the natives, which is their common »*me for all kinds of ferpents. A.

that

Ch.VII. SOUTH AMERICA. 6t

that of the others, without a fpeedy application of fome fpecific, it proves mortal. Thefe remedies are perfectly known to the Negroes, Mulattos, and Indians frequenting the woods, and called curanderos. But the fafefi antidote is the habilla, already mentioned.

It is not, however, often that thefe dangerous fer-pents bite any one, unlefs, from inadvertence or defign, he has been the ^ggreflbr, Befides, they are fo far from having any extraordinary agility, that they ate remarkably torpid, and, as it were, half dead; fo that, were it not for their motion in retiring to hide themfelves among the leaves, it would be difficult to determine whether they were dead or alive.

There are few parts of Europe which do not produce the cientopies or fcolopendra; but at Carthagena they not only fwarm, but are of a monftrous fize, and the more dangerous, as breeding more commonly in houfes than in the fields. They are generally a yard in length, fome a yard and a quarter, the breadth about five inches, more or kfs, according to the length. Their figure is nearly circular, the back artH fides covered with hard fcales, of a mufk colour, tinged with red ; but thefe fcales are fo articulated, as not in the leaft to impede their motion, and at the. fame time fo ftrong as to defend them againft any blow; fo that the head is the only place where you can ftrike them to any purpofe. They are alfo very nimble, and their bite, without timely application, proves mortal; nor is the patient free from confiderable torture, till the medicine has deftroyed the malignity of the poifon.

The alacranes, or fcorpions, are not lefs common, and of different kinds, as black, red, mufk colour, and fome yellow. The firft generally breed in dry rot tea wood, and others in the corners of houfes, in clofets and cupboards. They are of different fizes, the largeft about three inches long, exclufive of the tail. The fling alfo of fome is lefe dangerous than that of others; that of the black is reckoned the moft ma*

lignant,

6* A VOYAGE TO Book L

lignant, flibugh timely care prevents its being fatal. The flings of the other kinds pruducc fevers, numb-nefles in the hands and feet, forehead, ears, nofe and lips, tumours in the tongue, and dimnefs of light; thefe diforderslaft generally 24 or 48 hours, when, by degrees, the patient recovers.. The natives imagine, that a fcorpion falling into the water purifies it, and therefore drink it without any examination. They are fo accuftomed to thefe infers, that they do not fear them, but readily lay hold of them, takirigcare not to touch them only in the laft vertebrae of the tail, to avoid being flung; fometimes they cut their tails off and play with them. We more than once entertained ourfelvcs with an experiment of putting a fborpion into aglafs veflel, and injecting a little fmoke of tobacco, and immediately by flopping it found that its averfion to this fmell is fuch, that it falls into the moft furious agitations, till, giving itfelf feveral repeated flings on the head, it finds relief bydeftroy-ing itfelf. Hence we fee that its poifon has the fame effect on itfelf as on others.

Here is alfo another infe& called caracol foldado, or the foldier-fnail. From the middle ,of the body to the pofterior extremity it is fliaped like the common fnail, of a whitifli colour and a fpiral form : but the other half of the body refembles a crab, both in fize and4he difpofition of its claws. The colour of this, which is the principal part of its body, is of a light brown. The ufual length, exclufive of the tail, is about two inches, and the breadth one and a half It is deftitute both of fliell and fcale, and the body pvery where flexible. Its refource againft injuries is to feek a fnail-(hell of a proper fize, in which it takes up its habitation. Sometimes it drags this fnail-fhell with it, and at other times quits it, while it goes out in queft of food; but, on theleaft appearance of danger, it haftens back to the (hell, ^nd thrufts itfelf into it, beginning with its hind part, fo that the fore part fills

. the

Ch.VH. SOUTH AMERICA. 63

the entrance, while the two claws are employed in its defence, the gripe of which is attended with th6 fame fymptoms as the fting of a fcorpion. In both cafes the patient is carefully kept from drinking any water, which has been known to bring on convulfions; and thefe always prove fatal.

The inhabitants relate, that when this creature grows too large for making its way into the fhell which was its retreat, it retires to the fea coaft, in order to find there a larger, where killing the wilk, whofe (hell beft fuits him, he takes poffeflion of it, which is indeed the fame method it took to obtain its firft habitation. This laft circumftance, and the delire of feeing the form of fuch a creature, induced Don George Juan and myfelf to delire the inhabitants to procure us fome ; and upon examination, we found all the above* mentioned particulars were really true; except the bite, which we did not choofe to experience.

There are feveral other forts of infecls remaining, which, though fmaller, yet afford equal reafon for admiration to a curious examiner; particularly the infinite variety of maripofas, or butterflies, which, . though differing vifibly in figure, colours^and decorations, we are at a lofs to determine which is the moft beautiful.

If thefe are fo entertaining to the fight, there are others no lefs troublefome; fo that it would be more eligible to difpenfe with the pleafure of feeing the former, than to be continually tortured by the latter ; as the mofchetos, of which large clouds may be feen, efpecially among the favantfahs and manglares, or plantations of mangrove-trees, fo that the one, as affording the herbage on which they feed, and the other, as the places where they produce their young, * are repdered impaffable.

There are four principal fpecies of this infedl: the flrft called fcancudos, which are the largeft; the fecond the mofchetos, differing little or nothing from ihofe

of

64 A VOYAGE TO Book I.

of Spain * ; the third gegenes, which are veryfmall and of a different fhape, refembling the weevil, about the fize of a grain of rauftard-feed, and of an afh-colour. The fourth are the mantas blancas, or white cloaks, and {o very minute that the inflammation of their bite i$ felt before the infeft that caufed it is feen. Their colour is known by the infinite number^of them which fill the air, and from thence they had their name. From.the two former, few houfes are free. Their .fling is followed by a large tumour, the pain of which continues about two hours. The two laft, which chiefly frequent fields and gardens, raife no tumour, but caufe an infupportablc itching. Thus, if the extreme heat renders the day troublefome, thefe imperceptible infe&s difturb the repofe of the night. And though the mofquiteros, a kind of gauze curtains, in forae meafure defend us from the three former, they are no fafeguard againft the latter, which make their, way between the threads; unlefs the fluff be of a clofer texture, in whidh cafe the heat becomes infup-portable.

The infedl of Carthagena called nigua, and in Peru pique, is fhaped lik6 a flea, but almoft too fmall for light. It is a great happinefs that its legs have not the elaflicity with thofe of fleas; for, could this infect leap, every anirtial body would be filled with them ; and, confequently, both the brute and human fpeciea be foon extirpated by the multitudes of thefe infe6t$» They live amongft the duft, and therefore are moit common in filthy places. They i^finuate themfelves into the legs, the foles of the fe^t9 or toessand pierce thefkin with fuch fubtilty, that there is «o being aware of them, till they have made their way into the fleih-}*. If they are perceived at the beginning, thqy are ex-tra&ecf with little pain; but if the head only lias

* Or the gnat of England. A.

f They feldom infinuate themfelves into the legs. A.

pierced

Ch. VIL SOUTH AMERICA. 6S

pierced through the fkin, an incifion rauft be raadfc before it pan be taken out. If they are not foon per-ceived, they make their way through the fkin, and take up their lodging between that and the membrane of the flefti; and fucking the blood, form a nidus or neft, covered with a white and fine tegument, refem-bling a flat pearl; and the infect is, as it were, in-chafed in one of the. faces, with its head and feet outwards, for the convenience of feeding, while the hinder part of the body is within the tunic, where it clepofits its eggs; and 3S the number of thefe ihcreafes, the nidus enlarges, even to the diameter of a line and, a half, or two lines, to which magnitude it generally attains in four or five days. There is an abfolute ne-ceffity for extracting it; for otherwife it would btirffe of itfelf, apd by that means fcatter an infinite number of germs, refembling nits, in fize, fhape, and colour, which becoming niguas, would, as it were, undermine the whole foot. They caufe an extreme pain/ efpe-ciaHy during the operation of extra<5ling them 'r for fometimes they penetrate even to the bone; and the pain, even afte? the foot is cleared of them, lafts till the flefli has filled up the cavities they had made, and the Ikin is again clofed.

The manner of performing this operation is both tedious and troublefome; the flefh contiguous to the membrane, where the eggs of the infedt are lodged, is feparated with the point of a needle, and thofe eggs fo tenacioufty adhere to the flefh and this membrane, that, to complete the operation without burfiing the tegument, and putting the patient to the moft acute pain, requires the greateft dexterity. After feparating on every fide the fmall and almoft imperceptible fibres, by which it was fo clofely connected with the membranes and mufcles of the part, .the perilla, as they term it,'is extracted, the dimenfians of which are proportional to the time it has exiflied. If unfortunately it ftiould burft, the greateft care muff be ufed

Yot#I. F to

J>6 A VOYAGE TO feoox I.

clear away all the roots, particularly not to leave the principal nigua; as, before the wound could be healed, there would be a new brood, further within the flefli; and confequently the cure much more difficult and painful.

The cavity left by the removal of the nidus, muft be immediately filled either with tobacco afhes, chewed tobacco, or fnuff; and, in hot countries, as Carthagena, great care muft be taken not to wet the foot for the firft two days, as convulfions would enfue; a diftemper feldom got over: this confequencc has pbffibly been obferved in fome, and from thence confidered as general *.

The firfl entrance of this infe& is attended with no fenfible pain ; but, the next day, it brings on a fiery

v itching, extremely painful, but more fo in fome parts than in others. This is the cafe in extra&ing it, when the infcdt gets between \he nails and the fleft^ or at the extremity of the toes. In the fole of the foot, and other parts where the flcin is callous, they caufe little or no pain.

This irife£ fhews an implacable hatred to'fome animals, particularly the hog; which it preys on with fuch voracity, that when their feet come to be fcalded, after being killed, they, arc found full of cavities made by this corroding infe&.

Minute as this creature is, there are two kinds of it; one venomous, and the other not. The latter

perfectly relembles the flea in colour, and gives a

. whiteilefs to the membrane where it depofits its eggs. This caufes no pain, but what is common in fuoh cafes. The former is yellowish, its nidus of an afh-colour, and its effe&s more extraordinary; as, when lodged at tfie extremity of the toes, it violently in-

* There is no neceffity for this precaution, as is well known to the honefl tar. -The tobacco allies, &c. entirely deftroy the nits or ovaria, if any be .left. A.

flames

Ch.VII. SOUTH AMERICA. 67

flames the glands of the groin, and the pain continues, without abatement/ till the nigua is extracted, that being the only remedy; after which, the fwelling fub* fides, and the pain ceafes, thofe glands correfpondipg with the Xoot, where the caufe of the pain refined. The true caufe of this apparently ftrange effect I (hall not undertake to inveftigatgj the general opinion is, that fome fmall mufcles extending from thofe glands to the fefct, being afFe&ed by the poifon of the bite, communicate it to the glands, whence proceed the pain and inflammation. All I can affirm is, that I have often experienced it, and at firft with no fmall concern ; till having frequently obferved, that thefe efFe£is ceafed on extra&ing the nigua, I thence concluded it to be the true caufe of the difordcr. The fame thing happened to all the French academicians^ who'accompanied us'in this expedition, and particularly to M. de Juflieu, botanift to the king of France, whom frequent experience of thefe kinds of accidents taught to divide thefe infedls into two kinds.

As the preceding animals and infe6ls chiefly exef-cife their malignant qualities on the human fpecies, fo there are others which damage and defiroy the .furniture of houfes, particularly all kinds of hangings* whether of cloth, linen, filic, gold or filver fluffs, or laces; and indeed every thing, except thofe of folid metal, where their voracity feems to be weaned out by the rcfiflance. This infe6t, called comegen, is nothing more than a kind of moth or maggot; but fo expeditious in its depredations, that in a very fhprt time it entirely reduces to duft one or more bales of merchandife where it happens to fatten ; and, without-altering the form, perforates it through and through, \yith a fubtility which is not perceived till it comes to be handled, add then, infl^ad of thick cloth or linen, one finds only fmall fhreds and duft. At all times the ftritfeft attention is fequifite tQ prevent fuch accidents, but chiefly at the arrival of the galleons; for

fa then

a A VOYAGE TO Book L

then it may do immenfe damage among the vaft quantity of goods landed for warehouses, andl for fale in the fhops. ^The beft, and indeed the only method, is, to lay thd bales on benches, about half a yard from the ground, and to cover the feet of them with alqui-firarri, or naphtha, the only prefervatiye again fi thisfpe-cies of vermin;3 for, with regard to wood, if eats intQ ?'that as eafily as into the goods, but will not comfc near it when covered with naphtha as above.

Neither would this precaution be fufficient for the fafety of (he goods, without a method of keeping them from touching the walls; and then they are fuf-ficicntly fccured. This infect is fo fmall, as to be fcarcely viable to the naked eye; but of fuch activity, as to dellroy all the goods in awarehpufe, where it has got footing, in one night's time. Accordingly it is utua! that in running the rifks of commerce, in goods configned to Carthagcna, the circumflances are lpecified, and in thefe are underftood to be included the lofles that may happen in that city by the come-gen. This infedl infefis neither Porto BelI6, nor even' places nearer Catth'agena, though they have fo many other things in common with that city; nor is it fo "much as known among them.

What has been faid, will, I hope, be fufficient to give an adequate idea of this country, without fwell-'ing the work with trivial obfervations, or fuch as have teen already pubtiftied by others. We fhall now proceed to treat diftin&ly of other equally wonderful works of Omnipotence, in this country.

CHAP.

Cm. VIII. SOUTH AMERICA. 69

CHAP. VIIL

Of the efculent Vegetables produced in the TerrU tories of Carthagena% and the Food of the Inhabitants of that City.

rPHOUGH Carthagena has not the convenience' of being furniftied by its foil with the different' kinds of European vegetables, it does not want for' others, "far from being contemptible, and of which the, inhabitants eat with pleafure. JSven the Europeans, who at their firfi coming cannot eafily take up with them, are riot long before they like them lb well as to forget thofe of their own country.

The conflant moifture and heat of this, climate will not admit of barley, wheat, and other grain of that kind; but produces excellent maize and rice in * iuch abundance, that a bulhel of maize, fown, uiually produces an hundred, at harveft. From this grain they make the bollo, or bread, ufed in all this conn-tf*y; they alfo ufe it in feeding hogs and fattening poultry. The maize bollo has no refemblancc to ihe bread made of wheat, either in fhape or tafte. It is made in form of a cake; is of a white colour, andN ' aYi infipid tafte. The method of making it is, to (oak' the maize, and afterwards bruife it between two flones; it is then put into large bins filled with water, where, by rubbing and fliifting it from one veflel., into another, they clear it from its hufk; after this it is ground into a pafte, of which the bollos are made. Thefe bollos, being wrapped up in pjantane or vijahua leaves, are boiled in water, and ufed as bread; but, after twenty-four hours, become tough and of a difagreeable tafte. In families of dlftindlion the bollo is kneaded with milk, which greatly improves it; but, being not thoroughly penetrated by the liquids, it never rifes, nor changes its natural colour;

7o A VOYAGE TO Book I.

fo that, inftead of a pleating tafte, it has only that of, the flour of maize. -

Besides the bollo * here is alfo the cafava bread, very common among the Negroes, made from the roots of yuca, .names* and moniatos. After carefully taking off the upper fkin of the root, they grate it, jand fleep it in wafer, in order to free it'from a flrong acrid juice, which is a real poifon, particularly that of the moniato. The water being feveral times fliifted, that nothing of this acrimony may remain, the dough is made into IremkL cakes, about two feet diameter, and about three or four lines in thicknefs. Thefe cakes are baked in ovens, on plates of copper, or a kind of brick made for that purpofe. It is a nou-rifliing and ftrengthening food, but very infipid. It will keep fo well, that at the end of two months it has the fame tafle as the firft day, except being more ,diy.

Wheat bread is not entirely uncommon at Car-thagena; but, as the flour comes from Spain, the price of it may well be conceived to be above the reach qf the generality. Accordingly it is ufed only by. the Europeans fettled at Carthagena, and fome few Creoles; and by thefe only with their chocolate and conferves. At all other meals, fo flrong is the force of acuftom imbibed in their infancy, they prefer bollos to wheat bread, and eat honey with cafava.

They alfo make, of the flour of maize, feveral kinds of paflry, and a variety of foods equally palatable and wbolefome; bollo itfelf being never known to ditagree with thofc who ufe it.

Besides thefe roots, the foil orodnaes plenty of camiotes, refembling, irHafte, Mwfcga potatoes; but fomething different in Ibape, the caraiotes being ge-

* Or cake made of mandioc yams, and fwect potatoes (or ca« . mioses), which they grate and: mix together. Thr bollo is {ar from infipid, when a proper quantity of the camiote is put in* A.

nerally,

Ch. VIII. SOUTH AMERICA. 71

nerally roundifti and uneven, are both pickled

and ufed as roots with the meat ;*Rat, confidering the goodnefs and plenty of this root, they do not improve it as they might.

Plantations of fugar-canes abound to such a degree, as extremely to lower the price of honey ; and, a great part of the juice of thefe canes is converted into fpirit for the difpofing of it. They grow fo quick as to be cut twice in a year. The variety of their verdure is a beautiful ornament to the country.

Here are alfo great numbers of cotton-trees, fome . planted and cultivated, and tfcefe are the bed ; others fpontaneoufly produced by the great fertility of the country. The cotton of both is fpun, and made into feveral forts of fluffs, which are worn by the Negroes of the Haciendas, and the country Indians.

Cacao tteck alfo grow in great plenty on the banks of the river Magdalena, and in other ntuations which that tree delights in; but thofe in the jurifdi&ion of Carthagena excel thofe of the Caracas, Maracaybd, Guayaquil, and other parts, both in fize and the goodnefs of the fruit. The Carthagena cacao or chocolate is little known in Spain, being only fent as prefeij^ ; for, as it is more efteemed than that of other countries, the greater part of it is confumed in this jurifdie-tion, or fent to other parts of America. It is alfo imported from the ^Caracas, and fent up the country, that of the Magdalena not being fufficient to anfwer the great demand there is for it in thefe parts. Not* is it amifs to mix the former with the latter, as corre&ing the extreme oilinefs of the chocolate, when made only with the cacao of the Magdalena. The latter, byway of dtftinftion from the former, is fold at Car* thagena by millares, whereas the former is difpofed of by the bufhel, each weighing 110 pounds * but that of Maracaybp weighs only 96 pounds. This is the mod valuable treafure which nature could have beftowed on this country; though it has carried its

F 4 * bouDty

ft A VOYAGE TO Book h

bounty ftili farthp, in adding a vaft number of delicious fruits whfW evidently difplay the exuberance of the foil. Nothing ftrikes a fpe&ator with greater admiration, than, to fee fuch a variety of pompous trees, in a manner emulating each other, through the whole year, in producing the moft beautiful and delicious fruits* Some refemble thofe of Spain ; others are peculiar to the country. Among the former, fome are indeed cultivated, the latter flourifti fpontane-©ufly.

. Those of the fame kind with the Spanifti fruits are tnelons, watermelons, called by the natives Blanciac, grapes, oranges, medlars, and dates. The grapes arfc not equal td thofe of Spain; but the medlars as far exceed them: with regard tp the jreff, there is no great difference.

Among the fruits peculiar to the country, the preference, doubtlefi, belongs to the pine-apple ; and ac-* cordinglyits beauty, fmell, and tafte, have acquired it *he appellation of queen of fruits. The others are the papayas, guanabanas, guayabas, fapotes, mameis, plate nos, cocos, and manyothers, which it would be tf^ious to enumerate, efpecially as thefe are the principal ; and therefore it will be fufficient to confine our defcriptions to them.

, The ananas or pine-apple, fo called from its refewl-bling the fruit or the cones of the European pine-tree, is produced by a plant nearly refembling the aloe,, ex* cept that the leaves of the pineapple are longer, but not fo thick, and moft of them ftand near the ground in a horizontal pofitioh ; but as they approach nearer the fruit, they diminifh in length, and become lefs expanded. This plant feldom grows to above three feet in height, and terminates in a flower refembling a liljr, but of fo elegant a crimfon, as even to dazzle the eye. The pine-apple makes itsfirfl: appearance in the centre of the flower, about the fize of a nut ; and as this in-preafes, the luflre of the flower fades, and the leaves

expand

-

Ch. VHI. SOUTH AMERICA. * ri

expand themrfelves to make room for k, and fecure it both as a*bafe and ornament. On the top of the apple itfelf, is a crown or tuft of leaves, like thofe of the plant, and of a very lively green. This crown grow* in proportion with the fruit, till both have attained their utmoft magnitude, and hitherto they differ very little in colorir. But as foon as the crown eeafes to grow, the fruit begins to ripdn, and its green changes to a bright ftraw colour': during this gradual altera** tion of colour, the fruit exhales fuch a fragrancy as difcovers it, though concealed from fight. White it continues to grow, it ihoots forth on all fides little thorns, which, as it approaches towards maturity, dry and foften, fo that the fruit is gathered without this leaft inconvenience. The Angularities which eon-centre in this prodwft of nature, cannot fait of firik-ing a contemplative mind with admiration. The crown, wbioh was to it a kind of apex, while growing in the woods, becomes itfelf, when fovvn, a new plant; and the ftera,after the fruit is cut, dies away, as if fa-tisfied with having anfwered the intention of nature ift fuch a produdt; but the roots fhoot forth frefh ftalks^ for the farther increafe of fo valuable a fpecies.

The pine-apple, though feparated from the plpnt, retains its fragrahcy for a contiderable time, when it begins to decay. The odour of it not only fills the aparti&ent where the fruit is kept, but even extends to the contiguous rooms. The general length of this delicious fruit is from five to feven inches, and the diameter near its bafis three or four, diminifhing regularly, as it approaches to its apex. For eating, it is peeled and cut into round flices, and is fo full of juice, that it entirely diflblves in the mouth. Its flavour'is fweet, blended with a delightful acidity. The rincj, infufed in water, after a proper fermentation, produces a very cooling liquor', and (till retains all the properties of the iruiU

74s A VOYAGE TO BookL

The other fruits of this country are equally valuable in their feveral kinds; andfome of tl^m alfo dif-tinguifhed for their fragrancy, as the guayaba, which is, befides, both pedtoral and aftringent.

The nioft common of all are, the platanos, the name of which, if not its figure and tafte, is known in all parts of Europe * Thefe are. of three kinds* The firfl is the banana, which is fo large as to want but little of a foot in length. Thefe are greatly ufed, being not only eaten as bread, but ^lfo an ingredient in many made diihes. Both the ftone and kernel are very hard ; but the latter has no noxious quality. The fecond kind are the dominicos, which are neither fo long norfo large as the bananas, but of abetter tafte ; they are ufed as the former.

- The third kind are the guineos, lefs than either of the former, but far more palatable, though not reckoned fo wholefome by the natives, on account of their fuppofed heat. They feldom exceed four inches in length; and their rind, when ripe, is yellower, fmoother, and brighter, than that of the two other kinds. The cuftom of the country is to drink water after eating them; but the European failors, who will not be confined in their diet, but driqk brandy with (every thing they eat, make no difference between this fruit apd any other; and to this intemperance may, in fome meafure, be attributed the many difeafes with which they are attacked in this country, and not a few fudden deaths; which are, indeed, apt to raife, in the furvivors, concern for their companions for the pre-

* The plantane and banana are, I believe, little known in Europe by name. The firft two forts the Author defcrikes, are better known by the names of the long and ftiort phntane, and the lad by the name of banana, than by thofe he has given them. They have neither ftone nor kernel, but a very fmall feed, as fmall as that of thyme, which lies in the fruit in rows like that of a cucumber, to which the banana bears thegreateft refemblance of any thing in England; only \t is ftnooth and not fo large. A. -

fent;

Ch. VIII. SOUTH AMERICA. 7 j

fent; but they foon return to the fame excefles, not remembering, or rather choofing to forget, the me* lancholy confequenc^s.

By what we could difcover, it is not the quality of the brandy which proves fo pernicious, but the quantity ; forae of our company making the experiment of drinking fparingly of thjs liquor after eating the gui-t neos, and repeating it feveral times without the leatt incopvenience. One method of dreffing them, among feveral others, is to roaft them in their rind, and afterwards fliqe them, adding a little brandy and fugar to give them a firmnefs. In this manner we had them every day at our table, and the Creoles themfelves ap-proved of them.

The papayas are from fix to eight inches in length, andrefemble a lemon, except that towards the ftalk they are fomewhat lefs than at the other extremity*' Their rind is green, the pulp white, very juicy, but ftringy, and the tafte a gentle acid, not pungent. This is the fruit of a tree, and not, like the pine-apple and platano, the pfodudt of a plant. The guayaba and the following are alfo the fruit of trees.

The guanabana approaches very near the melon, but its rind is much fnaoother, and of a greenifh colour. Its pulp is of a yellowifh caft, like that of fome melons, and not very different in tafle. But the greateft diftin&ion between thefe two fruits is a nau-fcous fmell in the guanaba. The feed is round, of a fhining dark colour, and about two lines in diameter. It confifts of a very fine tranfparent pellicle, and 3 kernel folid and juicy. The fraell of this little feed is much ftronger and more nauleous. The natives fay, that, by eating this feed, nothing is to he apprehended from the fruit, whi-h is otherwife accounted heavy and hard of digeftion; but, though the feed has nq ill tafte, the ftomach is offended at its fmell.

The fapotes are round, about two inches in circum^ ference, the rind thin and eafily feparated from the

fruit;

J6 A VOYAGE TO Book I.

fruit; the colour brovvn, ftreaked with red. The fleih is of a bright red, with little juice, vifcid, fibrous, and compact. It cannot be claifed among delicious fruits, though its tafie is not difagreeable. It contains a few feeds, which are bard and oblong.

TriE rinatneis' are of the iatfie colour with the fapotes, except that the brovvn is fomelhing lighter. Their* #nd alfo requires thtt afliltance of a knife, tb feparate It. The fruit is very much like fhe brunion plum, ^ but more folid, Ids juicy, and, iti colour, more lively. The fton6 ifc proportioned to the largepefs of the fruit, Which is betwixt three and four inches in dteftteter, alnioft circular, but with fonie irregularities. The ftone is an inch and a half in length, and its breadth in the middle, where it is rotmd, dneinch. Its external furface is fmooth, and'of a brown colour, except on one fide, wh^te it is1 vertically crbfied b/ &< ifrreak refembling the flite of a' tridon in colour and fhape. This ttreak has neither the hardnefs nor* frtiOothnefs of the refl*of the fuffaee of the fldncf, which feenis in this place covered arid fomething feabrtfusi

The coco is a very common fruit, and but littler-efreeittfed; all the ufe made of it being to dVink the jaiee whilfr fluid, bt(otc it begins to curdle. It is, wheti firft gathered, fdll of a whitifh liquor, as fluid 96' w^tdr, very pteafant and rdfrefhing. The fhell Which covers thecttco ntit, is green on theoutfide, and- white within; full of flrofig fibres, traverfing it dtlafH fides in af longitudinal direction, but eafily le-pafAftd with .a knife. The coco is alto' whitiih at that tlmtf, a*id utrt hird; but, as the confiftency of its pfllp increases, the green colour of its fhell degenerates into yellow. As foon as the kerneV has at^-tained its maturity, this dries and^changes to broWn; then becomes fibrous, and Co compadt, as not to be cafily opened and feparated from the coco, to which foflurof thdfe fibres adhere. From the palp of thefe

coote

/

Ch. VHI. SOUTH AMERICA. .'77

cpcos is drawn a milk like that of almonds, and at Carthagena is ufed in dreffing riqe.

Though lemops, of the kind generally kuawn 19 Europe, and of which fuch quantities are gathered in fome parts of Spain, are very jcarce; yet there are fuch numbers of another kind, called futiles or limes, that the country is, in a manner, covered with the trees that jprpduce them, without care or culture. But the tree and its fruit are both much lefs than thofe of Spain, the height of the former feldom exceeding eight or tea feet; and from the bottom, or a litle above, divide? into feveral branches, whofe regular expanfion forms a very beautiful tuft. The leaf, which is of ;the fame fhape with t,hat of the European lemon, is lels, but fmoother; the fruit does not exceed a common egg in magnitude; the rind very thin ; and it is more juicy, in proportion, than the lemon of Europe, and infinitely more pungent and acid ; on which account the European phyficians pronounce it detrimental to health; though, in this country, it is a general ingredient in their made difhes. - There is one lingular i^ie to which this fruit is applied in cookery. It is a cuftora with the inhabitants not to lay their meat down to the fire above an hour at fartheft, before dinner or fupper; this is managed by iteeping it for fome time in the juice of thefe limes, or fqueezing three or four, according to the quantity of meat, into the water, if they intend boiling ; by which means the flefli becomes fo. foftened as to admit of being thoroughly drefled in this fhort (pace. The people here value themfelves highly on this preparative, and laugh at the Europeans for fpending a morning about what they difpatch fo ex-peditioufly.

This country abounds in tamarinds; a large branchy tree, the leaf of a deep green ; the pods of a middle fize, and flat; the pulp of a dark brown, a pleafant tafte, very fibrous, and is called by the fame name as the tree itfelf. In the middle of thi pulp is a hard

feed,

78* A VOYAGE TO Book L

feed, or ftone, fix or eight lines in length, to two in breadth. Its tafte is an acid fweetnefs, but the acid predominates; and it is only ufed when diffblved in water as a cooling liquor, and then but moderately, and not for many days fucceffively; its acidity and extreme coldnefs weakening and debilitating the fto-mach.

Another fruit, called mani, is produced by a final! plant. It is of the fize and fhape of a pine-cone ; and eaten either roafied, or as a conferve. Its quality is dire6ily oppofite to that of the former, being hot in the higheft degree; and, confequently, not very wholefome in this climate.

The produdts which are not natural here, befides wheat,, barley, and other grain, are grapes, almonds, and olives: confequently the country is deftitute of Vine, 6il, and raiiins, with which they are fupplied from Europe : this neceflarilyrenders them very dear; fometimes they are not to be had at any price. When this is the cafe with regard to wine, great numbers fuffer in their health; fora as all thofe who do not ac-cuflom themfelves to drink brandy at their meals, whiph are far the greater number, except the Negroes, -being ufed to this wine, their ftomach, for want of it, lofes the digefiive faculty, and thence are produced Epidemical diftempers. This was an unhappy cir-^ cumftance at our arrival, when wine was fo extremely fcarce, that mafs'was faid only in one church.

The want of oil is much more tolerable; for? in drefling either fifh or fleflh, they ufe hog's lard, of which they have fo great a quantity, as to make it an ihgredient in their foup, which is very good, and, conlidering the country, not at all dear : inftead of lamps too, they life tallow candles : fo that they want oil only for their falads.

From fuch plenty of flefti, fowl, and fruits, an idea may be formed of the luxuriancy of the tables in this country ; and,, indeed, in the faoufes of per*

< foas

Ch. VIII. SOUTH AMERICA. ^ 79

fons of wealth and difiinflion, they are ferved with the greateft decency and fplendour. Mofl of the dirties are drefled in the manner of this country, and differ confiderably from thole of Spain ; but fome of them are fo delicate, that foreigners are no lefs pleafed with them, than the gentlemen of the country. One of their favourite difhes is the agi-aco, there being fcarcely a genteel table without it. It is a mixture p£ feveral ingredients, which cannot fail of making an excellent ragout. It confifts of pork fried, birds of feveral kinds, plantanes, maize pafte, and feveral other things highly feafoned with what they call pimento, or aji.

The inhabitants of any figure generally make two meals a^day, befides another light repaft. That in the morning, their breakfaft, is generally compofed of fome fried difh, paftry of maize flour, and things of that nature, followed by chocolate. Their dinner confifls of a much greater variety*; but at night the regale is only of fweetmeats and chocolate. Some families, indeed, affe<5t the European cuftom of having regular fuppers, though they are generally looked upon at Carthagena as detrimental to health. We found, however, no difference as lo ourfeJves; and poflibly the ill effe&s flow from excefs in the other meals. .

CHAP. IX.

Of the Trade of Carthagena, and other Countries . of America, on the Arrival of the Galleons and * other Spanijh Ships.

THE bay of Carthagena is the (firft America at which foe fellcons anrallflweJ la touch; and thus it empys the firltTruusof commerce,

"* * b^

I

to A VOYAGE TO Book I.

,

|>y tjie public fales made there. Thefe fales, though not accompanied with the formalities obferved at> J*orto Bello fair, are very confiderable. The traders

r °f th? inland province^

| eQaiLa, lay out not only their own flocks, but alfo the jljpi}ies intrufted to them by commiffi'ons, for feveral forts of goods, and thofe fpecies of provifions which fire tpoft wanted in their refpe&ive countries The

JPflrthlgT** Their traders bring gold and filvter in

/ fpecie, ingots, and duft, ancTallb OTeralds; as, be-

fides the lilver mines worked at Santa Fe, *and which,

N daily incre^fe by frefh difcoveries, there are others

/ which yield the fineft emeralds. But the value of

/ thefe gems being now fallen in Europe, and particu-

\ larly in Spain, the tradp pf them, formerly fo Gonfi-

| cjer^ble, is now greatly, leffened, and confequently the

/ revyard for finding them. All 'thefe n*ine$ produce

{ great quantities of gold, which is carried to Qjpco,

) and there flBJ»jB»£..fiPA .j&L.thfi<^Wflg^Jit .an g^ge

cre&ed for that purpofe.

Thjs commerce was for fome years Rtohibited, at the felicitation of the merchants ofJLima,. who £am-jjlajned^of the great damages they fuftained bytlie transportation of European merchandifes from Quito to Peru ; which being thus furnifhed, while the traders of Lima were employed at the fairs of Panama and Porto Bello, at their return, they found, to their great lofs, the price of goods very much lowered. But it being afterwards conftdered, that reftraining the merchants of Quito and other places from purchafing» goods at Carthagena, on the arrival of the galleons, 5ras of great detriment to thofc provinces; it was ordered, in regard to both parties, that, on notice being given in thofe provinces, of the arrival of the

falleons at Carthagenav all commerce^ with regard to lurppean commodities, fhould ceafe between Quito

and

Ch. IX. SOUTH AMERICA. 81

and Lima, and that the limits of the two audiences fhould The thofe of their commerce :> that is, Ihat^Quito ^ ihontd not trade beyond the territories^JLoja aiicl \ Zamora; nor Lima, beyond thofe of Piura, one of the / jurifdi<9ions of its audience. By this equitable expedient, thofe provinces were, in time, fupplied with the goods they wanted, without any detriment to the trade of Peru. This regulation tw&iJklL£$S^ ^

on the arrival of the fquadron commanded by Doa Manuel Lopez Pintado, who had orders, frorti the king, to place commerce on this footing, provided it bid fair to anfwer the intentions of both parties, and that no better expedient could be found. Accordingly this was carried into execution ; being not only well adapted to the principal end, but alfo, during the flay of the galleons at Carthagena, procured bulinefs for the Cargadores *, in the fale of their goods; and thus made themfelves ample amends for their expenfes.

During the prohibition, the merchants of Carthagena were obliged to have recourfe to the Flotila of Peru, in their courfe from Guayaquil to Panama ; or to wait the return of the galleons to Carthagena, and, confequently, purchafe only the refufe of Porto Bello fair; both which were, doubtlefs, conliderable grievances to them. If they purfued the firft, they were obliged to travel acrofs the whole jurifdi&ion of Santa Fe to Guayaquil, which was a journey of above four hundred leagues, with confiderable fums of money, which having difpofcd of in merchandifes, the charges of their return were ftill greater. In fine, the lofles v inevitable in fuch a long journey, where rapid rivers, mountains, and bridges, were to be croffed, and their merchandifes expofed to a thoufand accidents, rendered this method utterly impr^dicable; fo that they were obliged to content themfelves with the remains of the fair; though it was very uncertain whether

* Perfons who bring European goods for fal*.

Vol. C~~~~~ G thefc

S* A VOYAGE TO Book I.

tbefe would be fufficient to anfwer the demand. Besides, the inland merchants ran the hazard of not meet* ing at Carthagena with goods fufficient, in quality and quantity, to anfwer their charges; and were forae-tirties a<ftually obliged to return with the money, and the vexation of a fruitlefs, though expenfive, journey Thefe inconveniences produced a repeal of the prohibition, and commerce was placed on the prefent equitable footing.

This lijtle fair at Carthagena, for fo it may be galled; occafions a great quantity of (hops to tie

jg$ED&&, and {jtjledjj^ ; the

profit partly refulting to Spaniards wfio come in the galleons, and are either rpcommended to, or are in partnerfhip with, the Cargadores ; and partly to thofe already fettled in tfaaFcity. The Cargadores furnifh the former with goods, though to no great value, in

v order to gain their cuftom; and the latter, as perfons inborn they have already experienced to be good men ; '»nd both in proportion to the quicknefs of their fale. This is a time of univerfal profit; to fome by letting lodgings and (Bops, to ibmcTtiy the increafe of their. refpe&ive trades, and toothers bv the labourj^^Jtheir ^ggSaJ&SyfiSi whofe pay alio is^pfoportionally m-creafed, as they do more work in this bufy time* By *fel& fed^ through all the feveral ranks,

they frequency get a furplus of money beyond what is Sufficient for providing themfelves with neceffaries.

j And it is not uncommon forjlaves, out of their fav-

| ings, and after paying their mailers the daily tribute,

I to^rcha^fe^tbeir freedoms.

This affluence extends to the neighbouring villages, eftancias, and the mod wretched chacaras, of this ju-Tifdi6tion ; for, 6y the increafe of ftrangers to a fourth, third, and foraetimes one half, of the ufual number of people, the confbmption, and consequently the price of provifions, advances, which is, of courfe, no fmall advantage to thofe who bring them to market.

3 This

Ch. IX. SOUTH AMERICA. 83

This com^rga] t^^qlt^afts while the galleon? continue InTKebay: for th^r are no foone£gQne, than filence and tranquillity refumettfeTFTornier place. Tnis the inhaT>itants of Carthagena call tiempo mu-AfTtMi.thfeidfiad .tinr"*; for, with regard fo thTfra3BvcaiC jned on with the other governments, it is not worth notice. The greater part of it conlifls in fome Inlanders from La Trinidad, the Havannah, and §t. Domingo, bringing leaf-tobacco, fnuff, and fugars ; and returning with Magdalena cacao, earthen-ware, rice, and pther goods wanted in thofe iflands. And even af thefe fmail veffels, fcarcely one is feen for two or three months. The fame may be faid of thofe which go from Carthagena to Nicaragua, Vera-Cruz, Honduras, aod other parts; but the moft frequent trips are made to Porto Bella, Cbagra, or Santa Martha. The reafon <why this commerce is not carried on mQTfi brifldy is, that raoft of thefe places are naturally prq-vided with the fame kind of provifions; and confe-quehtly are under ijo qeceffity of trafficking with each other.

Another branch of the commerce of Carthagena, during the tiempo muerto, is carried on with the towns and villages of its jurifdi&ion, from whence are brought all kinds of neceflaries and even the luxuries of life, as maize, rice, cotton, live hogs, tobacco, plantanes, birds, cafava, fwgar, honey, and cacao, raoft: of which is brought in canoes and champanas, a fort of boats proper for rivers. The former are a kind of coafters, and the latter come from the rivers Magdalena, Sinu, and others. Their returns confift of goods for apparel, with which the {hops and warehoufes furnifh themfelves from the galleons, or from prizes taken on the coaft by the king's frigates, or privateers.

No eatable pays any duty to the king; and every perfon may, in his own houfe, kill any number of pigs he thinks he lhali fell that day; no falted pork is eaten, becaufe it is foon corrupted by the exceflive

G a heat

84 A VOYAGE TO Book t

heat of the place. All imports from Spain, as brandy, wine, oil, almonds, raifins, pay a duty, and are afterwards fold without any farther charge, except what is paid by retailers, as a tax for their (hop or ftall.

Besides thefe goods, which keep alive this flender inland commerce, here is an office for the^ijfento of ^JggEOes, whither they are brought, and, as it were, J&pLa&jdcdges, till (uch^perfons as want them on their eft^t^. CQJP^io pnrchafc them ;TSegfbes being generally employed in hufbandry and other laborious country works. This indeed gives fome life to the trade of Cartbagena, though it is no weighty article, The produce of the royal revenues in this city not being fufficient to pay and fupport the governor, garrifon, and a great number of other officers, the deficiency is remitted from the treafurers of Santa Fe and Quito, under the name of Situado, together with fuch monies as are requisite for keeping up the fortifications* fur-nifhing the artillery, and other expenfes, neceflary for the defence of the place and its forts.

BOOK

Ch. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 8 j

BOOK II.

Voyage from Carthagena to Porto Bello.

chap: i.

General Winds and Currents between Carthagena and Porto Bello.

WHEN the French frigate had watered, and was ready for failing, we embarked on board her, on the 24th of November 1735 ; the next day we put to fea, and on the 29th of the fame month, at half an hour after five in the evening, came to an anchor at the mouth of Porto Bello harbour, in fourteen fathom water ; Caftle Todo Fierro, or the iron caftle, bearing N. E. four degrees northerly ; and the fouth point of 'the harboureaft one quarter northerly. The difference of longitude between Carthagena and Punta de Nave, we found to be 40 24.

We had fleered W. N. W. and W. one quarter northerly, till the Ihip was obferved to be in the eleventh degree of latitude, when we flood to the weft. But when our difference of longitude from Carthagena was 30 io', we altered our courfe to S. W. and S. a quarter wefterly, which, as already obferved, on the 29th of November, at 5 in the evening, brought us ia fight of Punta de Nave, which being fouth of us, we were obliged to makefeveral tacks before we could get into the harbour.

In this paflage we met with ftefh gales* The two firft days at north quarter eafterly, and the other days till we made the land at N. E.; a high fea running the

Q £ wholo

, '

86 A VOYAGE TO Book II.

1 whole time. But we were no fooner In fight of Punta de Nave, than it became calm, and a breeze from the land fprung up, which hindered us from getting that day into the harbour. It alfo continued contrary on the 30th ; but by 4he help of our oars, and being towed, we got at laft to the anchoring-place, where we went on fhore, with our baggage and inftruments necefiary for beginning our obfervations. But this being the moft proper place for mentioning the winds which prevail in this paflage, along the coaft, and that of Carthagena, we fhall beftow fome paragraphs on them.

There are Hwo forts of general winds on thefe coafts; the one called brifas, which blow from the N.E. and the other called vendabales, which come from the W. and W. S. W. The former fet in about the middle of November, but are not fettled till the beginning or middle of December, which is here the fummer, and continue blowing frelh and invariable till the middle of May; they then ceafe, and are fuc-ceeded by the vendabales, but with this difference, that thefe do not extend farther than 12 or i2f degrees of latitude; beyond which the brifas conflantly reign, though with different degrees of firength, and veer fometimes to the eaft, and at other times to the north.

T^e feafon of the vendabales is attended with violent florms of wind and rain; but they are foqn over, and fucceeded by a calm equally tranfilory; for the wind gradually frelhens, "efpecially near the land, where thefe phenomena are more frequent. The fame happens at the end of 061ober and beginning of November, the general winds not being fettled.

In the feafon of the brifas, the currents as far as 1 x° or 12° 30'of latitude, fet to the wefiward^ but with lefs velocity than ufual at the changes of the moon, and greater at the full. But beyond that latitude, they pfually fet N. W. Though this muft not be understood without exception j as, for inftance, near ifland^

&r. I. SOUTH AMERICA. $7

or fhoals, their courfe becomes irregular : foraetimes they flow through long channels ; and fometicues they are met by others ; all which proceeds from their fe-veral diredtions, and the bearings of the coafls; fo that the greateftattentionjs neceffary here, the general accounts not being fnfficient to be relied on; for, though they have been given by pilots who have for twenty or thirty years ufed this navigation, in all kinds of veffels,.and therefore have acquired a thorough knowledge, they themfelves cpnfefs that there are places where the .currents obferve no kind of regularity, like thofe we have mentioned.

When the brifas draw near their period, which is ^bout the beginning of April, the currents change their courfe, running totheeaftward for eight, ten, or twelve leagues from the coaft, and thus continue during the whole feafon of tlie vendabales; on which account, and the winds "being at this feafon contrary for going from Carthagena to Porto Bello, it is neceffary to tail to 12 or 13 degrees of latitude, or even ibmetimes farther; when, being without the verge of thofe winds, the voyage is eafily performed.

While the brifas blow ftrongeft, a very impetuous current fets ipto the gulf of Darien ; and out of it during the feafon of the vendabales. This fecond change proceeds from the many rivers which difcharge themfelves into it, and at that time being greatly Iwelled by the heavy rains, peculiar to the feafon ; fo that they come down with fuch rapidity, as violently to propel the water out of the gulf. But in the feafon of the brifas thefe rivers are low, and fo weak, that the current of the fea overcomes their refiftance, fills the gulf, and returns along the windings of the coaft,

G 4 CHAP.

58 A VOYAGE TO Book II.

CHAP. II.

tiefcription of the Town of St. Philip de Porto Bel/o.

THE town of St. Philip de Porto Bello, according to our obfervations, ftands in 90 34' 35" north latitude; and by the obfervations of father Feuillee, in the longitude of 2770 50' from the meridian of Paris, and 296° 41' from the Pico of TenerifFe. This harbour was difcovered on the 2d of November 1502 by Chriftopher Columbus, who was fo charmed with its extent, depth, and fecurity, that he gave it the name of Porto Bello, or the fine harbour. In the profecution of his difcoveries, he arrived at that which he called Baftimentos, where, in 1510, was fourided by Diego de Niqueza the city of Nombre de Dios, ' the name "ofGod;" fo called from the commander having laid to his people on his landing, " Here we will make *€ a fettlement in the name of God," which was accordingly executed. But this place was, in its infancy, entirely deftroyed by the Indians of Darien. Some years after, the fettlement was repaired, and the inhabitants maintained their ground till 1584, when orders arrived from Philip II. for their removing to Porto Bello; as much better iituated for the commerce of that country.

PokTO Bello was taken and plundered by John Morgan, an Englifl} adventurer, who iftfefted thofe feas; but, in confideration of a ranfom, he fpared the forts and houfes.

The town of Porto Bello flands near the fea, on the declivity of a mountain which furrounds the whole harbour. Moft of the houfes are built of wood. In fome the firft ftory is of ftone, and the remainder of wood.' They are about 130 in number; moft of them large and fpacious. The town is under the jurifdic-% tion

Ch. II. SOUTH AMERICA. 89

tion of a governor, with the title of lieutenant-general ; being fuch under the prefident of Panama, and the term of his poft is without any fpecified limitation. He is always a gentleman of the army, having under him the commandants of the forts that defend the harbour; whofeemployments are for life. '

li\confifts of one principal ftreet, extending along the ftrand, with other fmaller eroding it, and running from the declivity of the mountain to the Ihore, together with fome lanes, in the fame direction with the principal ftreet, where the ground admits of it. Here are two large fquares; one oppofite to the cuftom-houfe, which is a ftru&ure of flone, contiguous to the quay ; the other oppofite the great church, which is of ftone, large, and decently ornamented, considering the fmallnefs of the place. It is ferved by a vicar and other priefts, natives of the country.

Here are two other churches, one called Nueflra Signora de la Merced, with a convent of the lame order; the other St, Juan de Dios, which, though it bears the title of an hofpital, and was founded as fuch, is very far from being fo in reality. The church of la Merced is of ftone, but mean, and ruinous, (like the convent, which is alfb decayed; fo that, wanting the proper conveniencies for the religious to refide in, they live in the town difperfed in private houfes.

That of St. Juan de Dios is only a fmall building like an oratory, and not in better condition than that of la Merced. Its whole community confifts of a prior, chaplain, and another religious, and fometimes even of lefs: fo that its extent is very fmall, fince, properly fpeaking, it has no community; and the apartment intended for the reception of patients con-lifts only of one chamber, open to the roof, without beds or other neceffaries. Nor are any admitted but fuch as are able to pay for their treatment and diet. It is therefore of no advantage to the poor of the

1 place;

90 A VOYAGE TO Book II.

place; but ferves for lodging lick men belonging to the men of war which come hither, being provided with neceffaries from the fhips, and attended by their refpedtive furgeons, lodging-room being the only thing afforded them by this nominal hofpitai.

At the eaft end of the town, which is the road to Panama, is a quarter called Guiney, being the place where all the Negroes of both fexes, whether flaves or free, have their habitations. This quarter is very much crowded when the galleons are here, moft of the inhabitants of the town entirely quitting their houfes for the advantage of letting them, while others content themfelves with a fmall part in order to make money of the reft. The Mulattoes and other poor families alfo. remove, either to Guiney, or to cottages already ere6led near it, or built on this occalion. Great numbers of artificers from Panama likewife, who flock to Porto Bello to work at their refpe&ive callings, lodge in this quarter for cheapnefs.

Towards the fea, in a lafge tra& between the town and Gloria caftle, barracks are alfo efe6ted, and principally filled with the (hips' crews; who keep flails of fweetmeats, and other kind of eatables brought from Spain, But at the conclufion of the fair, the fhips put to fea, and all thefe buildings are taken down, and the town returns to its former tranquillity and emptinefs.

By an experiment we made with the barometer in a place a toife above the level of the fea, the height of the mercury was 27 inches 11 lines and a half.

CHAP.

Gh. III. SOUTH AMERICA. 91

CHAP. III.

Defcription of Porto Bello Harbour. ,

HHHE name of this port indicates its being com-modious for all forts of (hips or veflels, great or fmall; and though its entrance is very wide, it is well defended by Fort St. Philip de Todo Fierro. It ftands on the north point of the entrance, which is about 600 toifes broad, that is, a little lefs than the fourth part of a league ; and the fouth fide being full of rifcs of rocks, extending to fome diftance from the (bore, a fhip is obliged to ftand to the north, though the deepefl: part of the channel is in the middle of the entrance, and thus continues in a firaight direction, having 9, 10, or 15 fathom water, and a bottom of clayey mud, mixed with chalk and fand.

On the fouth fide of the harbour, and oppofite to the afichoring-place, is a large caftle, called Sant Jago de la Gloria, to the eaft of which, at the diitance of about 100 toifes, begins the town, having before it a point of land projecting into the harbour. On this point flood a (mail fort called St. Jerome, within ten toifes ofthehoufes. All thefe were demolifhed by the Englifh admiral Vernon, who, with a numerous naval force*, in 1739, made himfelf matter of this port; having found it fo unprovided with every thing, that the greater part of the artillery, efpecially that of the caftle de Todo Fierro, or iron caftle, was dismounted for want of carriages, part of the few military (lores unferviceable, and the garrifon Ihprt of its complement even in time of peace. The governor of the city, Don Bernardo Gutierrez de Bocane-gra, was alfo abfent at Panama, on fome accufation brought againfi him. Thus the Englifti, meeting no

* The numerous naval force, mentioned by our author, confided, we know, of fix flrips only.

refiftance,

9* A VOYAGE TO Book II.

refiftance, eafily fucceeded in their defign upon this city, which furrendered by capitulation.

The anchoring-place for the large fhips is N. W. of Gloria caftle, which is nearly the centre of the harbour; but lefler veflels, which come farther up, muft be careful to avoid a land-bank, lying 150 toifes from St. Jerome's fort, or point, bearing from it W. one quarter northerly ; and on which there is only a fathom and a half, or, at moft, two fathom water.

N. W. of the town is a little bay, called la Caldera, or the kettle, having four fathom and a half water; and is a very proper place for careening fhips and Teflels, as, befides its depth, it is perfectly defended from all winds. In order to go into it, you muft keep pretty clofe to the weftern Ihore till about a third part of the breadth of the entrance, where you will have five fathom water (whilft on the eaflern fide of the fame entrance there is not above two or three feet), and then fleer dire&ly towards the bottom of the bay. When the fhips are in, they may moor with four cables eaft and weft, in a fmall bafon, formed by the Caldera; but care njuft be taken to keep them always v on the weftern fide.

N. E. of the town is the mouth of a river called Cafcajal, which affords no frefh water within a quarter of a league or upwards from its mouth; and it is not uncommon to fee in itCaymanes, or alligators.

The tides are here irregular; and in thisparticular, as well as that of the winds, there is no difference between this harbour and that of Carthagena; except that here the fhips muft always be towed in, being cither becalmed, or the winddiredily againft them.

From obfervations we made, both by the pole-ftar and the fun's azimuth, we found the variation of the ' needle in this harbour to be 8° 4' e^flerly.

Among the mountains which furround the whole harbour of Porto Bello, beginning from St. Philip de Todo Fierro, or the iroq paftle (which is fituated on

their

Ch. in. SOUTH AMERICA. . <#

their declivity), and, without any decreafe of height, extends to the oppofite point, one is particularly remarkable by its fuperior loftinefs, as if defigned to be the barometer of the country, by foretelling every change of weather. This mountain, difiinguifhed by the name of Capiro, ftands at the utmoft extremity of the harbour, in the road to Panama. Its top is always covered with clouds of a denfity and darknefs feldom feen in thdfe of this atmofphere; and from thefe, which are called the capillo or cap, has poffibly been corruptly formed the name of Monte Capiro. When thefe clouds thicken, increafe their blacknels, and link below their ofual ftation, it is a fure fign of a temped ; while, on the other hand, their clearnefs and afcent as certainly indicate the approach of fair weather. It mud however be remembered, that thefe changes are very frequent and very fudden. It is alfo feldom that the fummit is ever obferved clear from clouds; and when this does happen, it is only, as it were, for an inftanh

The jurifdi&ion of the governor of Porto Bello is limited to the town and the forts; the neighbouring country, over which it might be extended, being full of mountains covered with impenetrable forefts, except a few vallies, in which are thinly fcattered fome farms or Aaciendas; the nature of the country not admitting of farther improvements.

CHAP. IV.

Of th* Climate of Porto Bello, and the D{/tempers which provefo fatalto the Crews of the Galleons.

THE inclemency of the climate of Porto Bello is fufficiently known all over Europe. Not only Grangers who come thither are afFedted by it, but even the natives themfelves fuffer in various manners. It

deflroys

94 AVOfAGBTO. Book II.

deftroys the vigour of nature, and often untimely cuts the thread of life. It is a current opinion, that forr naerly, and even not above twenty years fince, parturition was here fo dangerous, that it was feldom any women did not die in childbed. As foon therefore as they had advanced three or four months in their preg-nancy, they were fent to Panama, where they continued till the danger of delivery was paft. A few indeed had the firmnefs to wait their deftiny in their owo houfes; but much the greater number thought it more advifable to undertake the journey, than to run fo great & hazard of their lives.

The excefiive love which a lady had for her huf-band, blended with a dread that he would forgot hqr during her abfence, his employment not permitting him to accompany her to Panama, determined her to fet the firii example of a&ing contrary to this general cuftom. The reafons for her fear were fufficient to juftify her refolution to run the ri(k of a probable danger, in order to avoid an evil which (he knew to be certain, and muft have embittered the whole remainder of her life. The event was happy; Ihe was delivered, and recovered her former health; and the example of a lady of her rank did not fail of infpiring others with the like courage, though not founded on the fame reafons; till, by degrees, the dread which former melancholy cafes had impreffed on the mind, and gave occafionto this climate's being conlidered as fatal to pregnant women, was entirely difperfed.

Another opinion equally ftrange is, that the animals from other climates, on their being brought to Porto Bello, ceafe to procreate. The inhabitants bring inftances of hens brought from Panama or Cartha-gena, which immediately on their arrival grew barren, and laid no more eggs; and even at this very time the horned cattle fent from Panama, after they have been here a (hort time, lofe their flefh fo as not to be eatable; though they do not want for plenty of

Ch. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 9$

good pafture. It is certain that there are no borfes or afles bred here, which tends to confirm the opinion that this climate checks the generation of creature? produced in a more benign or lefs noxious air. However, not to rely on the common opinion, we inquired of fome intelligent perfons, who differed but very little from the vulgar, and even confirmed what they aflerted, by many known fa&s, and experiments perr formed by themfelves.

The liquor in Mr. Reaumur's thermometer, on the 4th of December 1735, at fix in the morning, flood at 1021, and at noon rofe to 1023.

The heat here is exceffive, augmented by the fitua-tion of the town, which is furrounded With high mountains, without any interval for the winds, whereby it might be refrelhed. The trees on the mountains (land fo thick, as to intercept the rays of the fun; and, con-fequently, hinder them from drying the earth under their branches : hence copious exhalations, which form ' large clouds, and precipitate in violent torrents of rain; thefe are no fooner over, than the fun breaks forth afrefh, and fhines with its former fplendour; though fcarce has the a<5Hvity of his rays dried the furface of the ground not covered by the trees, when the atmofphere is again crowded by another colle&ion of thick vapours, and the fun again concealed. Thus it continues during the whole day : the night is fub-je<ft to the like viciffitudes ; but without the leaft diminution of heat in either.

These torrents of rain, which, by their fuddennefs and impetpofity, feem to threaten a fecond deluge, are accompanied with fuch tempefts of thunder and lightning, as muft daunt even the moftrefolute: this dreadful noife is prolonged by repercufiions from thec^-, yerns of the mountains, like the explofion of a cannon, the rumbling of which is heard for a minute after. To this may alfo be added the bowlings and fhrieks of / the multitudes of monkies of all kinds, which live in

the

9«5 A VOYAGE TO Book IL

the forefts of the mountains, and which are never louder than when a roan of war fires the morning and evening gun, though they are fo much ufed to it.

This continual inclemency, added to the fatigue of the feameri in unloading the lhips', carrying the goods on fhore in barges, and afterwards drawing them along on fledges, caufes a very profufe tranfpiration, and confequently genders them weak and faint; and they, in order to recruit their fpirits, have recourfe to t>randy, of which there is, on tbefe occafions, an in* credible confumption. The exceffive labour, immoderate drinking, and the inclemency and unheaithfuV-uefeofthe climate, muft jointly deftroy the beft confutations, and produce thofe deleterious difeafes (6 common in this country. They may well be termed deleterious ; for the fymptotfis of all are fatal, the patients being too much attenuated to make any effe&ual refiftabce; and hence epidemics and mortal diftempers are fo very common.

It is not the feamen alone who are fubje& to thefe difcafes; others, ftrangers to the feas, and not concerned in the fatigues, are attacked by them ; and, confequently, is a fufficient demonflration that the other two are only collateral, though they tend both to fpread and inflame the diftemper; it being evident, that when the fluids are difpofed to receive the feeds of the diftemper, its progrefs is more rapid, and its attacks more violent. On fome occafions, phyficians have been fent for from Carthagena, as being fuppofed to be better acquainted with the propereft methods of curing the diftempers of this country, and confequently more able to recover the feamen ; but experience has (hewn, that this intention has been fo little anfwered, that the galleons or other European fhips, which flay any time here, feldom depart, without burying half, or, at leafl, a third of their men ; and hence this city has, with too much reafon, been termed the grave of the Spaniards; but it may,

with

Ch. IV. . SOUTH "AMERICA. si

with much greater propriety, be applied to thofe of Other nations who vifit it This remark was fuffici-ently confirmed by the havoc made among the English, when their fleet, in 1726, appeared before the port, with a view of making themfelves mafters of the treafure brought thither from all parts to the fair held at the arrival of the galleons, which, at 4hat tjme, by the death of the marquis Grillo, were commanded by Don Francifco Cornejo, one of thofe great officers whofe conduA and refolution have done honour to the navy of Spain. He ordered the (hips under his command to be moored in a line within the I harbour ; and ere&ed, on,the entrance, a battery, the care of which he committed to the officers of the I fhips ; or rather, indeed, fuperintended it himfelf, omitting ho precaution^ but viliting every part in per-fon. Thefe preparatives flruck fuch a confirmation into the Englifti fleet, though of confiderable force, that, inflead of making arny attempt, they formed only a blockade, depending on being fupplied with pro-j vifions from Carthagena, and that famine would at ^ length oblige the Spaniards to give up what they at firfi intended to acquire by force; but when the admiral thought himfelf on the point of obtaining his ends, the inclemency of the feafon declared itfelf among his (hips' companies, fweepingaway fuch numbers, that in a fhort time he was obliged to return to Jamaica, with the lofs of aboVe half his people,

But, notwithftanding the known inclemency of the climate of Porto Bello, and its general fatality to Europeans, the fquadron of 1730 enjoyed there a good ftate of health, though the fatigues and irregularities amon,g the feamen were the fame : nor was there any perceivable change in the air. This happy v lingularity was attributed to the flay of the fquadron at Carthagena, where they pafled the time of the epidemia, by which their conftitutions were better adapted to this climate; ajid hence it apj^ars, that Vol. L v H the N

$8 A VOYAGE TO Book II.

the principal caufe of tbefe diflempers flows from the constitutions of the Europeans iiot being ufed tQ it; and thus they either die, or become habituated to it, like the natives, Creoles, and other inhabitants.

CHAR V.

Account of the Inhabitants and Country about Porto Bello.

IN feveral particulars there is no eflential difference between Carthagena and Porto Bello; fa that I fhall only mention thofe peculiar to the latter; and add forae obfervationS, tending to convey a more exa& knowledge of this country.

The number of the inhabitants of Porto Bello, bf reafon of its fmallnefs, and the inclemency of itjs climate, is very inconfiderable, and the greater part of thefe, Negroes and Mulattos, there, being icarce thirty White families; thofe, who by commerce or their eftates are in eafy circumftanees, removing to Panama. So that thofe only flay at Pdrto Bello, whofe employments oblige them to it; as the governor or lieutenant-* general, the commanders of the forts, the civil officers of the crown, the officers and foldiers of the gar-rifons, the alcaldes in office and of the hermandad, and the town*clerk. During our flay here, the gar-rifons of the forts confided of about 125 men, being detachments from Panama; and thefe, though coming from a place fo near, are affe&ed to fuch a degree, that in lefs than a month they are fo attenuated, as to be unable to do any duty, till cuftom again fetiores them to their ftrength. None of thefe, or of the natives of the country, above the Mulatto clafs^ ever fettle here, thinking it a difgrace to live in it: a certain proof of its unhealthindTs, tince thofe to whom it gave birth forfake it.

1*

Ch. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 99

In manners and cuftoms, the inhabitants of Porto Bello referable thofe of Carthagena, except that the latter are more free and generous, thofe in the parts round Port Bello being accufed of avarice; a vice natural to all the inhabitants of thefe countries.

Provisions are fcarce at Porto Bello, and confe-quently dear, particularly during the time of the galleons and the fair, when there is a neceflity for a fup-ply from Carthagena and Panama. From the former are brought maize, rice, cafava, hogs, poultry, and roots; and from the latter, cattlp. The only thing in plenty here is fifti, of which there is a great variety and very good. It alfo abounds in fugar-canes, (o that the chacaras, or farm-houfes, if they may be (b called, are built of them. They have alio ingc-nios * for making fugar and molaffes, and, from the latter, brandy.

Fresh water pours down in ftreams from the mountains, {omc runnip|f without the town, and others eroding it. Thpfe waters are very light and digeftive, and, in thofe who are uied to them, good to create an appetite. Qualities, which in other countries would be very valuable, are here pernicious. This country fcems fo curfed by nature, that what is in itfelf good, becomes here deftru<£live. For, doubtlefs, this watec is too fine and a&ive for the flomachs of the inhabitants; and thus produces dyfenteries, the lafl flage of all other ^diflempers, and which the patient very teldocn furvives. Thefe rivulets, in their defcent from the mountains, form little refervoirs, pr ponds, vvhofe cooloefs is increafed by the (hade of the trees, and ia thefc all the inhabitants of the town bathe themfelves conftantly every day at eleven in the morning; and the Europeans fail not to follow an example fov plea* (ant and conducive to health.

* Ingenio.fignifiesthe mill, ftill, aod apparatus, for making fugar, ruoi, &c. A.

Ha 1 Am

' Digitiied^yQpOgle

roa A VOYAGE TO Book IF;

A4 thefe forefts almoft border on the houfes of the town, the tigers often make incurfions into the flreets during the night, carryrng off fowls, dogs, and other domedic creatures; and fometimes evert boys have fallen a prey to them ; and it is certain, that ravenous beafts, which provide themfelves with food in this manner, are afterwards known to defpife what the fo-retts afford j and that, after tailing human flefh, they flight that of beafts*. Belides the fnarcs ufually laid for them, the Negroes and Mulattos, who fell wood in the forefls of the mountains,, are very dexterous in encountering the tigers; and fome, even on account of the flender reward, feek them in their retreats. The arms in this eombat, feemingly fo dangerous, are only a knee, of two or three yards in length, made of a very ftrong wood, with the point of the fame hardened in the fire; and a kind of eimeter, about three quarters of a yard in length. Thus armed, they ftay till the creature makes an af-lault on the left arm, which holds the lance, and is* Wrapped up in a ftiort cloak of baize. Sometimes the tiger, aware of the danger, feems to decline the combat ; but his antagonift provokes him with a flight touch of the lance, in order, while_he is defending himfelf, to firike a fure blow ; for, as foon as the creature feels the lance, he grafps it with one of his paws, and with the other ftrikes at the arm which holds it. Then it is that the perfon nimbly aims a blow with his cimeter, which he kept concealed with the other hand, and hamflrings 4he creature, which immediately draws back enraged, but returns to the*

* This h an error. Beafts of prey in America are not Ib^rce as iri Africa and Alia; they never attack the human fpecies, bat when forced by hunger, or provoked. It is affirmed by the natives* that if an European, with his Negro and dog, were to meet with two hungry beafts of prey, whether tigers or ounces, they would feize the i\og and Negro, and leave the European, But the truth I aever kuew experienced. A%

charge;

Ch. V; SOUTH AMERICA. toi

charge; when, receiving another fuch ftroke, he is to-- tally deprived of his rnaft dangerous weapons, and rendered incapable of moving- Atter which the per-fon kills him at his leifure, and ftripping off the fkin, cutting off the head, and the fore and hind feet, returns to the town, difplaying thefe as the trophies of his vidtory. /

Among the great variety of animals in this country, one of the moll remarkable is the Perico ligero, or nimble Peter, an ironical name given it on account of its extreme fluggifhnefs and floth. It refemble&a middling monkey, but of a wretched appearance, its lkin being of a greyifli brown, all over corrugated, and the legs a«d feet without hair. He is fo lumpifli, as not to Sand in need of either chain or hutch, for he never ftirs till compelled by hunger. When he moves, every effort is attended with fuch a plaintive, and at the fame time fo difagreeable a cry, as at once produces pity and difguft; and this even on the flighteft motion of the head, legs, or feet; proceeding probably from a general contraction of the raufcles and nerves of his body,, which puts him to extreme pain when he endeavours to move them. In this difagreeable cry confifts his whole defence ; for, it being natural to him to fly at the firft hoftile approach of any beail, he makes at every motipu fuch bowlings as are even infupportable to his purfacr, who foon quits him, and even flies beyond the hearing of his horrid noife. Nor is it only during the time he is in motion that he utters thcfe cries; he repeats them while he refts himfelf, continuing a long time motion-lefs before he takes another march. The food of this creature is-generally wild fruits; when he can find Done on the ground, he looks out for a tree well loaded, which, with a great deal of pains, he climbs; and, to fave himfelf fuch another toilfome afc^nt, plucks off all the fruit, throwing them on the ground; and to avoid the pain of defcending, fortes himfelf

H 3 x into

102 A VOYAGE TO Boo* IT.

into a ball, and drops from the branches. At the foot of this tree he continues till all the fruits are confumed, never fiirring till hunger forces him to feek again for food.

Serpents are here as numerous and deadly -as at Carthagena ; and toads * innumerable, fwarming not only in the damp and marfhy places, as in other countries, but even in the ftreets, courts of great houfes, and all.open places in general. The great numbers of thera, and their appearance after the lea ft fhower, haveinduced fome to imagine, that every drop of water becomes a toad; and though they allege, as a proof, the extraordinary increafe of them on the fmalleft fhower, their opinion docs not fcem to me well founded. It is evident, that thefe reptiles abound both in the forefte and neighbouring rivers, and even in the town itfelf; and produce a prodigious quantity of animalcula, from whence, according to the beft naturalifts, thefe reptiles >re formed. Thefe animalcula either rife in the vapours, which form the rain, and falling together with it on the ground, which is extremely heated by the rays of the fun, or being already deposited in it by thfc toads, grow, and become animated, in no lefs numbers than were formerly feen in Europe. But fome of then* which appear after rains being fo large as to meafure fix inches in length, they cannot be imagined the effect of an inftaritaneous production ; I am therefore inclined to think, from my pwn obfervatfons, that this part of the country, being remarkably moift, is very well adapted to nourifh the breed of thofe creatures^ which love watery places ; and therefore avoid thofe parts of the ground expofed to the rays of the fur^ feeking others where the earth is foft, and there form themfelyes cavities in the ground, tp enjoy the Qioif-r

* Called by the natives ferpos: they appear every dewy evening }n as great numbers as after £ flicker. I never heard of the opinion, the author fpeaks of. A.

« turej

Ch. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 103

turc; and as the furface over them is generally dry, the toads are not perceived; but no fooner does it begin to rain, than they leave their retreats, to come at the water, which is their fupreme delight; and thus fill the fireets and open places. Hence the vulgar opinion had its rife, that the dropsof rain were tranf-formed into toads. When it has rained in the night, the fireets and fquafes in the morningfeem paved with thefe reptiles; fo that you cannot ftep without treading on them, which fometimes is productive of trou-blefome bites; for, befides their poifon, they are large enough for their teeth to be leverely felt. Some we have already obferved to be fix inches long, and this is their general meafure; and there are fuch numbers of them, that nothing can be imagined more difmal than their croakings, during the night, in all parts of the town, woods, and caverns of the mountains.

CHAP. VI.

Of the Trade of Porto Bello.

'THE town of Porto Bello, fo thinly inhabited, by reafon of its noxious air, the fcarcity of provifions, and the barrennefsof its foil, bg&ID£§a J?tthe time of the galleons, <ffl&JBlih&^

South America. Its fituation on the iilhmus betwixt the fouth and north fea, the goodnefs of its harbour, and its fraall diftance from Panama, have given it the preference for the rendezvous of the joint commerce of Spain and Peru, at its fair.

On- advice being received at Carthagena, that tht Peru fleet had unloaded at Panama, the galleons make the beft of their way to Porto Bello, in order to avoi4 the dHiempfers which have their fource from idlenefs, The cpqpourfe of people, on this occafion, is fuchf

H 4 ft*

104 A VOYAGE TO Book Ih

as to raife the rent of lodging to an exceflive degree; a middling chamber, with a clofet, lets, during the fair, for a thoufand crowns, and fome large houfes for four, five, or fix thouland.

x The fhips are no fooner moored in the harbour, /than the firft work is, to ere&, in the fquare, a tent made of the {hip's fails, for receiving its cargo ; at which the proprietors of the goods are prefent, in order to find their bales, by the marks which diftin-guilh them. Thefe bales are drawn on fledges, to their refpe6Hve places, by the crew of every (hip, and the mdney given them is proportionally divided.

Whilst thefeamen and European traders are thus employed, the land is covered with droves ,of mules from Panama, each drove confifting of above an hundred, loaded vyith chefls of gold and filver, on account of the merchants of Peru. Some unload them at the exchange, others in the middle of the fquare; yet, amidft the hurry and confufion of fuch crowds, no theft, lofs, *>r difturbancc, is ever known. He who has feen this pla^ iuring thr tifrmpo m^rrt^ or dead

eyery^where; the harbour quite empty, and every pface wearing a melancholy afpe<5t,muft be filled with aftonifhment at the fudden change, to fee the buflling multitudes, every houfe crowded, the fquare and ftreets encumbered with bales and chefis of gold and filver of all kinds; the harbour full of fhips and veffels, fome bringing by the way of Rio de Chape the goods of Peru, as cacao, quinquina or jefuits bark, Vicuna wool, and bezoar flones ; others comfng from Cartha-gena, loaded with provifions: and thus a fpot, at all other times defefted for its deleterious qualities, becomes the ftaple oft the riches of the old and new-world, and the fcene of one of the moft confiderable branches of commerce in the whole earth.

The fhips being unloaded, and the merchants of Peru, together with the prefident of Panama, arrived,

the

*

I Ch. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 105

1 the fair comes under deliberation. And for this pur-

pofe the deputies of the feveral parties repair on board

the commodore of the galleons, where, in prefence of

j the commodore, and the prefideht of Panama; ,thc

former, as patron of the Europeans, and the latter, of

the Peruvians; the prices of the feveral kinds of mer-

chandifes are fettled ; and all preliminaries being ad-?

jufted in three or four' meetings, the contracts arc

iigned, and made public, that every one may conform

himfelf to them in the fale of his effedls. Thus all

fraud is precluded. The purchafes and fales, as likewife

the exchanges of money, are tranfa&ed by brokers,

I both from Spain and Peru. After this, every one be-

I gins to difpofe of his goods ; the Spanifh brokers em-

I barking their chefl s of money, and thofe of Peru fend-

[ ing away the goods they have purchafed, in veflels

called chatas and bongos, up the river Chagre, And

thus the fair of Porto Bello ends.

Formerly this fair was limited to no particular time ; but as a long ftay, in fuch a fickly place, ex* tremely affedied the health of the traders, his catholic I majefty tranfmitted an order, that the fair fhould not

f laft above forty days, reckoning from that in which

the fhips came to an anchor in the harbour; and that, if in this fpace of time the merchants could not agree in their rates, thofe of Spain fhould be allowed to carry their goods up the country to Peru; and accordingly the commodore of the galleons has orders to re-embark them, and return to Carthagena; but other-L wife, by virtue of a compact between the merchants

f of both kingdoms, and ratified by the king,noSpantfh

trader is to fend his goods, on his own account^ beyond Porto Bello : and, on the contrary t thofe of Peru I cannot fend remittances to Spain, for purchafing goods

r there.

i Whilst the Englifh were permitted to fend an an«

! nual fliip, called Navio de Permiflb, (he ufed to bring'

! , to the fair a large cargo on her own account, never

AOu* ^

106 A VOYAGE TO Book If.

failing firft to touch at Jamaica, fo that her loading ilone was more than half of ail thofe brought by the galleons; for, befides that her burden fo far exceeded five hundred Spaniih tons, that it was even more than time hundred,, fhe had no provifions, water, or other things, which fill a great part of the hold; (he indeed took them in at Jamaica, from whence (he was attended by five or fix fmaller veflels, loaded with goods, which, when arrived near Porto Bello, were put on board her, ittd the provifions removed into the tenders; by which artifice the fingle ftiip was made to carry more than five or fix of the largeft galleons. This nation having a free trade, and felling cheaper than the Spaniards, that indulgence was ofjnfinite detriment to the com-ifcerce of Spain.

Itf the dead time, all the trade flirring here confifts Id provifions from Carthagena ; and cacao and quinquina, down the riv.er Chagre: the former is carried in fmall veflels to Vera Crtiz, and the quinquina either depofited in warehoufes, or put on board fhips, which, with permiffion, come from Spain to Nicaragua and Honduras; thefe fhips alfo take in cacao. Some fmall trefifels like'wife come from the iflands of Cuba*, La Trinidad, and St. Domingo, with cacao and rum.

Whilst the affiento of Negroes fubfifted dther with the French or Englifh, one of their principal fa&ories Was fettled here; and was of confiderable advantage to hs commerce, as being the channel by which not only Panama was fupplied with Negroes, but from whence they were fent all over the kingdom of Peru : on fthich account the agents of the affiento were allowed to bring with them (uch a quantity of provifions as was thought neceflary, both for their own qfe, and their (laves of both fc&es.

BOOK

Ca. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 107

BOOK III.

Voyage from Porto Bello to Panama

CHAP. L

Voyage up the Cbagre, and Journey from Cruces to Panama by Land.

AS it had always been bur fixed defign to flay no longer than abfolutely neceffary in any place, till we had anfwered the great end of our commiffion, our ardour to center upon it, together with a defire pf quitting this dangerous climate, induced us to make the utmoft difpatch, In order to this, we fent advice from Porto Bello, to Don Dionyfio Martinez de la Vega, prefident of Panama, of our arrival, the motives of our voyage, and other circumftances, together with his majefty's orders relating to the afliftance to be giveh us by all his officers; adding out requefls, that he would be pleafed to fend one or two of thofe veflels ufed on the Chagte, to bring u6 to Panama, it being impracticable for us to travel thither by land, at fome of the inftruments were too lafge for the narrow craggy roads in many parts, and others of a nature not to ne carried on mules. This gentleman, who has always fhewn a remarkable zeal for every thing dignified with his majefty's name, was not in the leaft wanting on this occafion; and his polite replyr which roily anfwered our mod fanguine hopes, was

followed

ip8 A VOYAGE TO Book III.

followed by two veflels, difpatched to £orto Bello. Immediately on their arrival, we put on board the in-ftruments and baggage, belonging both to the French gentlemen and ourielves; and on the 22d of December 1735, departed from Porto Bello.

The land wind being contrary to us, we rowed out of Porto Bello harbour; but the ~brifas fetting in at nine in the morning, both veflels got under fail; and a frefh gale brought us, at four in the evening of the &me day, to the mouth of the river Chagre, where we landed at the cufiom-houfe ; and the next day we began to row up the river.

On the 24th, we endeavoured to proceed in the lame manner; but the force of our oars being too *weak to flem the current, we were obliged to fet the veffels along with poles. At a quarter after one in the afternoon, we meafured the velocity of the current, and found it ten toifes and one foot in forty Seconds and a half. In this flow toilfome manner we proceeded till the 27th, at eleven in the morning, "when we arrived at Cruces, the landing-place, about five leagues from.Panama. As we advanced up the river, we found a great increafe in the velocity of the current, which on the 25th was ten toifes in twenty-iix feconds and a half: on the 26th, at the place where we anchored for that night, ten toifes iu fourteen feconds and a half; and on the 27th, at the town of Cruces, the fame fpace in iixteen feconds. Consequently the greateft velocity of the water is two bundred and ^ighty-three toifes, or about a league, iri an hour.

This river, which was formerly called Lagartos, from the number of alligators in it, though now better jknown by that of Chagre, has its fource in the mountains near Cruces. Its mouth, which is in the north fea, in 90 18' 40" N. latitude/ and 2950 6' longitude, from the meridian of 'feneriffe, was difcovered by Lopez de Olano. , Diego de Alvites difcovered that

part

Ch. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 109

part of it where Cruces is fituated ; but the firft Spaniard who failed down jt, to reconnoitre it to its mouth, was captain Hernando de la Serna, in the year 1527. Its entrance is defended by a fort, fitu-ated on a deep rock on theeaft fide near the fea fhore. This fort is called San Lorenzo de Chagres, has a commandant and a lieutenant, both appointed by his majefty, and. the garrifon is draughted from Panama.

* About eight toifes from the above fort, is a town of the fame name. The houfes are principally of reeds, and the inhabitants Negroes, Mulattos, and Meflkos. They are a brave and adtive people, and, on occafion, take up arms to the number of triple the ufual garrifon of the fort.

Opposite, on a low and level ground, ftands the royal cuftom-houfe, where an account is taken of all goods going up the Chagre. Here the breadth of the river is atout 120 toifes, but grows narrower gradually as you approach its fource. At Cruces, the place where it begins to be navigable, it is only twenty toifes broad ; the neareft diflance between this town and the mouth is twenty-one miles, and th6 bearing N. W. 70 24' wefterly; but the diflance meafured along the feveral windings of the river, is no lefs than forty-three miles.

It breeds a great number of caymanes or alligators : creatures often feeaon its banks, which are im-paflable, both on account of the clofenefs of the trees, and the bufhes, which cover the ground, as it were, with thorns. Some of thefe trees, efpecially the cedar, are ufed in making the canoes or banjas employed on the river. Many of them being undermined by the water, are thrown down by the fwellings of the river; but the prodigious magnitude of the trunk, and their large and extenfive branches, hinder them from being carried away by the current; £o tfyat they remain near their original fituation, to the

great

no a Voyage to book m.

great inoonvcoience and even danger of the veflels; for, the greater part of them being uuder water* a Yeflel, by ftriking fuddenly on them, is frequently overfet. Another obftru&ion to the navigation of this river is the races, or fwift currents, over the (hallows, where thofe veflels, though built for that purpofe, cannot proceed for want of a fufficient quantity of water; fo that they are obliged to be lightened, till they have pafled tne (hallow.

The. barks employed on this river are of two kinds, tBe cbatas and bongos, called in Peru, boaques. The firft are compofed of feveral pieces of timber, like barks, and of great breadth, that they may draw bull little water; they carry fix or feven hundred quintals* The bongos are formed out of one piece of wood; and it is furprifing to think there fhould be trees of fqch prodigious bulk, fome being eleven Paris feet broad, and carrying conveniently four or five hundred quintals. Both forts have a cabin at the fterp, for thp conveniency of the paflengers, a kind of awning fppported with a wooden fiancheon reaching to the head, and, a partition in the middle, which is alfocon* tinued the whole length of the veflel; and over the whole, when the vefiel is loaded, are laid hides, that the goods may not be damaged by the violence of the rains, which are very frequent here. Each of tbefe teqqire, befides the pilot, at leaft eighteen or twenty robuft Negroes; for, without fuch a number, they* would not be able, in going up, to make any way sigainft the current.

All the forefts and woods near this river are full of wild beafts, Specially different kinds of monkies, They are of various colours, as black, brown, reddift, and ftritfted; there is. alfo the fame diverfity in their fize; fome being a yard long, others about half a* yard, and others fcarce one third. The flefh of all; thefe different kinds is highly valued by t{ie Negroes, efpecially that of the jed-, but, however delicate the

meat

C*.L SOUTH AMERICA, tit

meat may be, the fight of them is, I think, enough to make the appetite abhor them; for, when dead, they are fcalded in order to take off the hair, whence the Ikin is contracted by the heat, and when tho-Toughlyx cleaned, looks perfe&Iy white, and very greatly refembles a child of about two or three yeajf of age, when crying. This refemblance is fhocking to humanity, y^t the fcarcity of other food in many garts of ^merica renders the flefh of thefe creature valuable; and not only the Negroes, but the Creole and Europeans themfelvee, make no fcruple of eating it.

Nothing, in my opinion, can excel the profpe$ft which the rivers of this country exhibit. The rooft fertile imagination of a painter can never equal tha magnificence of the rural landscapes here drawn by the pencil of Nature. The groves which fhade t&s plains, and extend their branches to the rivet;; the various dimenfions of the trees,; which cover the emi-* nences; the texture of their leaves; the figure of their fruits, and the various colours they exhibit, form a moft delightful fcene, which is greatly heightened by the infinite variety of creatures with which it is di-vcrfified. The different fpecies of monkies, flapping in troops from tree to tree, hanging from the branches, and in other places fix, eight, or mori* of them linked together, in order to pafs a river, and the dams vyith their young on their fhoulders, throwing themfelves into odd pofiures, making a thoufand grimaces, will perhaps appear fi&itious to thofe who have not actually ieen it. But if the birds are confidered, our reafon for admiration will be greatly augmented : fpr, befided thofe already mentioned (Book I, cfeap. vii.)f and which, from their abundance, feem tQ have had their origin on the b^nks of this rivejf, here are a great variety of others, alfo eatable; as the Wiild and royal peacock, the turtle-dove, and the heron. Of the latter there are four or five fpecies;

foaif

lis A VOYAGE TO Book IIL

fome entirely white ; others of the fame colour, except the neck and fome parts of the body, which are red ; others black, only the neck, tips of the wings and the belly white; and fome, with other mixture of colours; and all differing in fize> The fpecies firft mentioned are the leafl ; the white mixed with black the largeft and moft palatable. The flefli of peacocks, phea-fants, and other kinds, is very delicate *. The trees along the .banks of this river are furprifingly loaded with fruit; but the pine-apples, for beauty, fize, flavour, and fragrancy, excel thofe of all other countries, and are highly efleemed in all parts of America.

On our arrival at Cruces, we went on fhore, and were entertained by the alcalde of the town, Whofe houfe was that of the cuftoms, where an account is taken of all goods brought up the river. Having, with all poffible difpatch, got every thing ready for our journey to Panama, on the 29th, at half an hour after eleven in the morning, we fet out, and reached that city by three quarters after fix in the evening. We made it our firit bufinefs to wait on the prefident, a mark of refpeft due, not only to his dignity, but alfo for the many civilities he had fhewn us. This worthy gentleman received us all, and particularly the foreigners, in the* moll cordial and endearing manner. He alfo recommended to all the king's officers, and other perfons of diilin6lion in the city, not to be wanting in any good office, or mark of efteem :, a behaviour which fhewed at once the weight of the royal orders, and his zeal to execute his fovereign's plea-fure.

Some indifpenfable preparations, which were to be made for the profecution of our journey, detained us longer at Panama than we expe&ed. We however

* The fifhy tafte, which moft of the fovls in this country have, it an exception to their delicacy as food. A.

employed

Ch.I SOUTH* AMERICA. 113,

employed our time to the beft advantage, making fe? : veral obfervations, particularly on the latitude and the . pendulum; but the proximity of Jupiter at that time to the Sun hindered us from fettling the longitude. I alfo employed myfelf in taking a plan of the place, with all its fortification?, and adjacent coaft. At length, all things being in readinefs, we embarked without any farther lofs of time.

CHAP. II.

Dcfcription of the City of Panama.

PANAMA is built on an ifthmus of the fame name, the coaft of which is wafhed by the South Sea. From the obfervations we made here, we found the latitude of this city to be 8*57' 48" £ north. With regard to its longitude, there are various opinions; none of the aftronomers having been able, from obfervations made on the fpot, to afcertain it; fo that it is ftill doubtful whether it lies on the eaft or weft fide of the meridian of Porto Bello. The French geographers will have it to lie on the eaft fide, and accordingly have placed it fo in their maps; but, in ' thofe of the Spaniards, it is on the weft: and I conceive the latter, from their frequent journies from one plrfce to the other, may be concluded to have a more intimate knowledge of their refpe<SUve (ituations; whereas the former, being ftrangers in a great mea-fure to thofe places, have not the opportunity of making fo frcqucftt obfervations. I allow indeed, that, among the Spaniards who make this little journey, the number is very fmall of thofc, who have either capacity or inclination for forming a well-grounded judgment of the road they travel; but them have been alfo many expert pilots, and other pcrfon* Vol. I. ,1 of

ii4 A VOYAGE TO Book III-

of curiofity, who have employed their attention on it; mild from their report, the lituation of the city has been determined. This opinion is in fome meafure confirmed by oar courfe, the dire&ion of which on the river, from its mouth to the town o( Cruces, was caft 6* i5/ foutherly; and the diftance being 21 miles, the difference between the two meridians is 20 minutes, the drftance Chagrc is fituated to the weft of Cruces. We muft alfo confider the diftanee between Porto Bello and Chagre. During the firft two hours and a half, we failed a league and a half an hour; when, the land breeze fpringing up, we failed two leagues an hour, for feven hoars; which in all makes 18 leagues; and the whole courfe having been very nearly weft, the difference of longitude muft have been 44 miles; or 41, allowing for what might have btfen wanting of a due weft courfe ; and from this a£ain fubtra6Un£ the 20 minutes which Cruces lies to the eaft of Chagrc, the refult is, that Cruces is fitaated twenty-one minutes to the weftward of Porto Bello. To this la ft refult muft be added the diftanee of meridians between Cruces and Panama, the bearing of which is near S. W. and N. E.; and reckoning that we travelled, on account of the roughnefs and cragginefs of the road, only three quarters of a league an hour, during the feven hours, the whole is 14 miles, and the difference of meridians 10 minutes and a half. Confcqucntly Panama is lituated about 30 minutes weft ot Porto Bello; and the Spanilh artifts are nearer <he truth than the French.

The firft difcovery of Panama, the Spaniards owe to Tello de Guzman, who landed here in 1515 ; but found only fome filhermen's huts, this being a very proper place for their bufinefs, and from thence the Indians called it Panama, which fignifies a place abounding in fifli. Before this, namely in the year 1513, Balco Nunez de Balboa difcovered the South Sea, and took legal pofleffion of it in the names of the

kings

Ch*II. SOUTH AMERICA. **$

kings of Caftile. The difcovery of Panama was, iii the year 1518, followed by the fettlement of a colony there, under Pedrarias Davila, governor of Caftillk del Oro, the name by which this Terra Firma waS then called. And in 1521, his catholic majefty, the emperor Charles V. conflicted it a city, with the proper privileges.

It was this city's misfortune, in the year 1670, to be facked and burnt by John Morgan, an Englifh adventurer/ He had before taken Porto Bello and Maracaybo; and, retiring to the iljands, he every where publifhed his defipn of going to Panama; upon which many of the pirates, who then infefted thofe feas, joined him. He firft failed for Chagre, where he landed fome of his men, and at the fame .time battered the caftle with his lhips; but his fuccefe was owing to a very extraordinary accident. His flrength was confiderably dirainifhed by the great numbers killed and wounded by the fort, and he began to think it adviiable to retreai; when an arrow, fhot from the bow of an Indian, lodged in the eye of one of Morgan's companions. The perfon wounded, rendered defperate by the pain, with a remarkable firmnefs arid prefence of mind drew the arrow from the wound, and wrapping one of its ends in cotton, or tow, put it into his mufket, which was ready loaded, and difcharged it into the fort, where the roofs of the houfes were of flraw, and the fides of wood, according to the cuftom of that country. The arrow fell on one of the roofs, and immediately fet it on fire, which was not at firft obferved by the be-fieged, who were bufy in defending the place; but the fmoke and flames foon informed them of the total deftrucHon of the fort, and of the magazine of powder, which the flames muft foon reach. This unexpe&ed accident filled them with tertor and con-1 fufion; the courage of the foldiers degenerated into tumult and disobedience; and* every one being eager

la to

116 A VOYAQE TO Book III*

to ,fave himfelf, the works were foon abandoned, in orc|er to efcape the double dapger of being, either burnt or blown up, The commandant, however, dctermiped to do all in his power, lull defended the fort, wiili iixteen or twenty foldiers, being, all that were l?ft him, till, covered with wounds, he fell a vi&im to his loyalty. The pirates, encouraged by this accident, pufhed. their attack with the utmaft vigour; and the few people were obliged to furrender the place, which the violence of the flames foon laid, in afb$s. Having furmopnted this , difficulty, *the . greater part of them proceeded up the river in boats and launches, leaving the (hips at anchor, for the defence, of their new conqueft. The detachment having landed at Cruces, marched, towards Panama, and, on the Sabana, a fpacious plain before the city, they had fcveral ikirmilhes, in which Morgan always gained the advantage; fo that he made himfelf matter of the city, but found it almoft for&ken; the inhabitants, on feeing, their men defeated, having retired into the woods. He now plundered it at his leifure; and, after ftaying fome days, agreed, for a large, ranfom, to evacuate it without damaging the buildings; but, after the payment of the money, the city w£*s fet on fire, by accident, as they gave out, and as the hiftory of his adventures relates; but it is much more probable that it was done by defign* To pretend it was owing to accident, ieemed to them the bed palliative for their violating the treaty.

This misfortune rendering it absolutely neceflary . to rebuild the city, it was removed to its prefent fitua-tion, which is about a league and a half from the former, and much more convenient. It has a wall of free-ftone, and is defended by a large garrifon of regulars; whence detachments are fent to do duty at Darien, Porto Bello, and Chagre. Near the city, on the north-weft, is a mountain called Ancon, whofe

perpendicular

'

Cir. II. SOUTH AMERFCA. "117

perpendicular height, by a geometrical flteirfbraiion, We found to be lot toifes.

The honfes in general, when we vifited this city, were of wood, having but one flt>ry, and d liled roof, but laige; and Irom their difpofition, and the fym-*

f>metry of their windows, madd a handfome appearance. A<few were of flone. Without the walls is an open fuburb, larger than the city iffelf, and the houfes bf the fame material* and cpnftrudiion as thofe withiti, except fuch as border on the country, nrtoft of whicfc are thatched with draw; and among them fome

bujios, or huts. The ftreets, both of the city ^nd fulxrrb, are ftraight, broad, and for the rooft pafrt paved. » .

Though the greater part of the houfes wdre formerly trf wood, fires were rarely known at Panama, the nature of the timber being fuch, that if any fire is laid on the floor, or placed againft a wall, it is produ<5live of no other confequence than that of making a hole, without kindling into a flame; and the fire itfelf extinguished by the aflies. But, not-withstanding this excellent quality in the wood, in the year 1737, the city was almoft entirely confumdd, the goodnefs of the timber being unable to fecure it from the ravages of the flames; inddfed, by the concurrence of another caufe the timber was then tendered more combufHble. The fire began in a cellar, where, among other goods, there were great quantities of pitch, tar, naphtha, and brandy; thefe inflammable fnbftances rendered this lingular kind of wood a more eafy prey to the devouring flame s. In this conflagration the fuburb owed its fafety to its difiance from the city, which is 1200 toifes. Since this misfortune, it has been again rebuilt; and the greater part of the houfes are now of ftoue, all forts of materials for buildings of this kind being here in the greatefi plenty.

I 3 In

*l8 A VOYAGE TO Book III.

In this city is a tribunal or royal audience, in which

the governor of Panama psefides; and to this cm*

?loyment is annexed the captainfhip general of Terra 'irma, which is generally conferred on an'officer of difiin&ion, though his common title is that of pre-iident of Panama. It has alfo a cathedral, and a chapter confifting of the bifliop, and a number of prebendaries 3 an aujutamiento, or corporation, com* pofed of alcaldes and regidores; three officers of revenue, under an accomptant, treafurer, and agent; find a court of inquifition appointed by the tribunal of inquifition at Carthagena. The cathedral, and jrifo the convents, are of ft one; indeed, before the conflagration, feveral of the latter were of wood ^ but that terrible misfortune (hewed them the neceffity of ufing more folid materials. The convents are thole pf the Dominicans, Francifcans, Auguflines, and Fathers of Mercy; a college of Jefuits, a nunnery of the order of St. Clara, and an hofpital of St. Juan de Dios. The (lender revenues will not admit of their being very numerous; and accordingly the ornamebts of the churches are neither remarkably rich, nor contemptible.

The decorations of private hpftfes are elegant, but not'cofily ; and though there are here no perfons of fuch monfirpus fortunes as in feme cities of America, it is not deflitute of wealthy inhabitants, and all have a fufficiency ;* fo that, if it cannot be clafled among opulent cities, it is certainly above poverty.

The harbour of this city is formed in its road, by the (belter of feveral iflands, particularly Ifla de Naos, de Perico, and Flamencos: the anchoring-pJace is before the fecond, and thence called Perico. The Ihips here lie very fafe; and their dtftance from the city is about two and a half, or three leagues.

The tides are regular; and* according tp an ob-fervation we made on the day of the conjun&ion, it was high-water at three in the evening. The water

\ rifes

€h. II. SOUTH AMERICA. 119

rifes and falls confiderably; fo that the fhore, lying on a gentle Hope, is, at low water, left dry to a great d-*ftance. And here we may obferve the great differ* ence of the tides in the north and fouth feas, being di-re&ly oppofite: what in the ports on the north fea is accounted irregular, is regular in the fouth; and when in the fonper it ceafes to increafe or decreafe, in the latter it both rifes and falls, extending over the flats, and widening the channels, as the proper effect of the flux and reflux. This particular is fo general, as to be obferved in all the ports of the South Sea ; for even at Manta, which is a 1 mo ft under the equinoctial, the fea regularly ebbs and flows nearly fix hours; and the effedls of thefe two motions are fufficiently vifible along the fhorcs. The fame happens in the river of Guayaquil, where the quantity of its waters does not interrupt the regular fucceffion of the tides. The like phenomena are fcen at Paita, Guanchaco, Callao, and the other harbours; with this difference, that the water rifes and falls more in fome places than in others; fo that we cannot here verify the well-groupded opinion entertained by faiiors, namely, that between the tropics the tides are irregular, both in the difpro-portion of the time of flood to that of the ebb, and alfo in the quantity of water rifing or falling by each of the(e motions; the contrary happening here. This phenomenon is not eafily accounted for; all that can be faid is, that the ifthmus, or narrow neck of land, feparatingthe two feas, confines their waters, whereby each is fubje6t to different laws.

The variation of the magnetic needle, in this road, is 70 39' eaflerly. Both the* road and whole coaft abound in a great variety of excellent fifli, among which are two kinds of oyfters, one fmaller than the other; but the fmalleft arc much the beft.

At the bottom of the fea are a great number of pearls; and the oyfters, in which they are found, are remarkably delicious. This fifhery is of great ad-

J 4 vantage

isa A VQYAGE TO Book HI.

vantage to the inhabitants of all the iflands in tbis bay. .

The harbour of Porico is the rendezvous of the Peru fleet, during the time of the fair; and is never without barks loaded with proviiions from the ports of Peru, and a great number ofcoafting v.eflels going from thence to Choco, and parts on the wefterii coaft of that kingdom.

The winds are the fame as along the whole coaft j the tides or currents are ftrong^r near the iflands thari at a diflance from them ; but no general rule can be given as to their courfc, that depending on the place where the 'fhip is, with regard to the channels whiph they form. They alfo vary in the fame place according to the winds. Let it therefore fuffice that we hayo lhewn there are tides on this coaft, that, on. any oc« '" cafion, this notice may be applied to ufc.

CHAP, HI.

Of the Climate and Inhabitants of Panama.

MANY Countries pf America have fuch a refem-blance, in refpe6t to the inhabitants and cuf-toms, that they appear the fame. This is equally ob-fervable in the climate, when no difference is occa-fioned by the accidental difppfition of the ground, or quality of the foil. But, this fubjeft having been already iufficiently handled, a rational curiofity will feqnire us only to mentioti thofe particulars in which they differ. Thus, after faying that the inhabitants of this city referable thpfe of Carthagena with regard^ to their confiitution, I muft add, that there is forae' difference in their difpofitiori, ihofe of Panama being more pariimonious, more defigning and iniidious, and flopping at nothing when profit is in view, the pole-Jlar both of Europeans and Creoles; and it is difficult

Ch. III. SOUTH AMERICA. 121

ficult to determine which fet the fuft example. The fame felfiftmefs and parfimony reigns equally among the women, fome Spanifh ladies excepted, who have accompanied their huibands, appointed auditors, or to fome other employments; thefe flill retaining the-qualities they imbibed from edupation.

The women of Panama begin to imitate the dreft of thofe of Peru, which, when they go abroad, confifts only of a gown and petticoat, nearly refembling thofe Worn in Spain ; but at home, on vifits, and fome particular ceremonies, their fhift is their only clothing,

' from the waift upwards. The fleeves are very long and broad, and quite open in the lower part or near the hand; and thefe, like the bofom, are decorated with very fine lace, the chief pride of the ladies of Panama. They wear girdles, and five or fix chaplets or rows of beads about their necks, fome fet in gold, fome of coral mixed with fmall pieces of gold, a$d Others lefs coftly ; but all of different lizes, in order to make the greater (how ; and befides thefe, one, two, or more gold chains, having fome relics dependant from them. v Round their arms they wear bracelets of gold and tombac; alfo firings of pearls, corals, and bugles. Their petticoat reaches only from their waift to the calf of their legs ; and from thence to a little above their ancle, hangs, from their under petticoat, a broad lace. The Meftiza, or Negro women* or the coloured women as they are called hew, are diftin-

^guifhed in their drefs from thofe of Spain, only by the gown and petticoat; the particular privilege of the latter, and which alfo gives them the title of Signora; though many of them have little to boaft of, either

. with regard to rank or wealth *.

If 1 omitted in Carthagena the following obferva-|ion, it was in order to referve it for this place ; name-

Thefe cuftpms are general throughout all the northern parts of South America, A. *

122 A VOYAGE TO . Book III.

ly, that in Cartbagena, Porto Bello,and Panama, the inhabitants have a very lingular pronunciation; and as fome nations have a haughty accent, fome a polite-" nefs in their manner of expreflion, and others fpeak in a very quick manner; fo here their pronunciation has a faintnefs and languor, which is very difagreeable, till we are reconciled to it hy cuftorn. Arid what is tf ill more particular, each of thefe three cities has a different accent in this languor; befides particular fyl-lablcs peculiar to each, and no lefs different than they are from the manner of fpeaking ufed in Spain. This may, in fome meafure, flow from an ill habit of body, weakened by the exceiiive heat of the climate; but I believe it is principally owing to cuftom.

The only difference between the climate of Cartha-gena and this is, that fummer begins later, and ends fooner, as, the longer the brifas delay their return, the ibonet they are over. From many thertnometrical observations made on feveral days without any fenfible difference betwixt them at the fame hours, on the 5th and 6th of January 1736, at fix in the morning, they found the liquorat io20§, at noon 1023^, and at three in the afternoon at 1025. But, at the fame time, it muft be obferved, that the brifas now began to blow, and, Confequently, it was not the time of the greateft beats; thefe prevailing in the months tii Auguft, September, and October.

Though this climate would naturally be fuppofed to produce the fame plants with others in the lame lati-1ude, it is very different. Nor does this feem to pro-ceed from any defe6l in the foil, but from thefondnefs of the inhabitants for trade, and their total negle& of 'agriculture, as too laborious. But, be the real caufe of it what it will, this is certain, that even in the parts contiguous to the city, the land is left entirely to nature; nor does the leaft veflige remain of its being formerly cultivated* From hence proceeds a fcarcity of all things, and, confequently, they are fold at a

high

Googk

Ch. Hi; SOUTH AMERICA. ia$

high price. Here arc no pulfe or pot-herbs of any kind ; and that this is not owing to the jfterility of the earth, we had an evident proof in a fmall garden, belonging to a Gallician, where all things ot this kind were produced in great plenty. By this means Panama is under aneceffity of being fupplied with every . thing, either from the coaft of Peru, or places in its own jurildi&ion.

iii i ! i i H ii i pi i i,

CHAP. IV.

Of the ufual Food of the Inhabitants of Panama*

THE very want of provifions caufes the tables at Panama to be better furnifhed; and it may be truly faid, that this city fubfifts wholly by Commerce, whatever is contained in it coming from other places* The (hips of Peru are continually employed in exporting goods from that country, and the coafting barks in bringing the produfts of tfye feveral places in its jurildi&ion and that of Varaguas. So that Panama is plentifully furnifhed with the beft of wheat, maize, poultry, and cattle. Whether it be owing to the fuperior goodnefs of their food, the temperament of the climate, or to fome other caufe to me unknown, it is certain that the inhabitants of this city are not fo meagre and pale as thole who live at Carthagena and Porto Bello.

Their common food is a creature called guana. It is amphibious, living equally on the land and in the water. It refembles a lizard in fhape, but is fome-thing larger, being generally above a yard in length s forae are conliderably bigger, others lefs. It is of a yellowilhgreen colour, but of a brighter yellow on the belly than on the back, where the green predominates. It has four legs like a lizard ; but its claws are much longer in proportion; they are joined by a

Gpogle

1*4 A VOYAGE ~TO Book III.

web, which covers theqfl, and is of the fame form as . thole of geefe, except that the talons at the end of the toes are much longer, and project entirely out of the web or membrane. -Its ikin is covered with, a . thin fcale adhering to it, which renders it rough and . bard; and, from.the crotfn of its bead to the begin-. PlflB-.°C **s ta^> which is generally about half a yard, runs a line of vertical (bales, each fcale* being from one to two lines in breadth, and three or four in length, 'fepafated-fo-fwto-reprefent-arkkid of Taw. -But from the end of the neck to the, root of the tail, the fcales gradually leffeo, {o as, at the latter part, to be fcarce % vifibje. Its, belly is, in lai^genefs, very dilproportionable to its body; and its teeth feparated* and very * iharp^poirjted. -On the water it rather walks than fwioif, ^c^og fupported by the webs< of its feet; -and 4t>n that etement it# fvviftnefs isfuch,:jas to be out of £ght in an inftant; whereas on the land, though far irofn moving heavily, it$ celerity is greatly lefs. When pregnant, its belly fwells to^n enormous fize; and indeed they often layiixty eggs at a time, each of which ; is as large as thofe pf a pigeon, Thefe are reckoned 'a great dainty, pot only at Panama, but in other parts where this creature is.found. Thefe eggs are all in-clofed in a lopg,. fine membrane, and form a kind of firing. The flefh of this animal is exceedingly white, and univerfally admired by all ranks. I tafted both the flelh and the eggs,, but the latter are vifcid in the mouth, and of a very difagreeable tafte : when drefled, . their colour is the fame with that of the yolk of a hen's egg. The tafte of the %fh is fomething better ; but, though fweet, has a naufeous fmell. Tlje inhabitants, however, compared it to that of chicken; though I could not perceive the leaft fimijarity*,

Thefe

i

.. * The flefh of the guana is whiter than chicken, and more pleaf* ing to mod palates, except as to the drynefs of it. The common fauce to it. i$ lime juice, feafoned with Chian pepper, which

fcuce

Cir.IV. - SOUTH nfcMBRICM i^rr

Thefe people, who, by being #f£ufloated*to fee tbet3, forget the rfctural horror attending the fight of an klK- gator, delight in this food, to* wHicb.'the Europeans^ at firft can hardly reconcile themfeives.; /

Here are two iingularities attributed to natute, and * firmly believed by the inhabitants; on<2 in the plant called yerva del gallo ; the other the double-headed' fhake called la cabeca.

It. is conftantly afferted in this city, that it& neigh* bourhood prod tyres a fnakc havinga head at each extre* mity ; and that from tthe «ibite of each a poifon is conveyed equal in atftivity to that of ithc coral, ©r rattlesnake; we. could not have the &tisfa£Hott o£ feeing one of this ftrange fpecies, though we ufed all the means in our power to. gratify our curiofity t %> according to report, its ttfual length is about half a * yard, in figure peife#ly refembling an earth* Jyorn\. Its diameter is about fix or eight lines,: and its head . different from that of other fnakes ; being.of the . lame dimenfions with its body. It is however very > probable that the creature has only one heady and, . from itsrefembling a tail, has been imagined to have two *. The motion of it is very flow, and its colour variegated with fpots of a paler tinfl.

The herb called del gallo, or cocks-herb, is so highly valued here, that they affirm, if an incifion be made round the neck of that fowl, provided the vertebra be not injured, on the application of this herb, the wound immediately heals. Whatever confl ruction we put upon this pretended cure, it can only be con-fidered as a mere vulgar notion ; and I mention it here with no other intention, than to'fatisfy the world that we were not ignorant of it.

fauce the natives cat with their fifb, ftefh, and fowl. If the guan\ were to be bad in England, I doubt not but it would be ranked among the greateft dainties. A.

* This conje&ure is very rigfit.' B»

DtfRlNG

«6 A VOYAGE TO Book III.

During our Ray at Panama we were very urgent withthofe who related this ftory to procure us fomc of the herb, that we might make the experiment; but in this we were as unfortunate as in the article of the two-headed fhake, none being to be had. I have, however, fince been told, by perfons fettled in Panama, that it was very common ; a fufficient proof, in my opinion, that the ftory has no foundation ; for* if it was fo eafy to be had, and of fuch furprifing virtue, torhat reafon could they have for refilling to convince us by ocular demon ft ration } It may hate a fiyptic virtue, when none of the principal blood-veflels are injured; but that it can join them after being cut, together with, the nerves and tendons when totally fevered, no perfon of any knowledge or judgment will ever be brought to believe. And if its effedts are fo remarkably happy on poultry, it is furely natural to "think it fhould have the fame on. any other animal * and, confequently, on the human fpecies* If this were the cafe, it would be of infinite value; and no foldier, efpecially, fhould be without it, as a few. ounces of this grand reftorative would immediately cure the N mod terrible wounds.

CHAP. V.

Of the Trade and Commerce of Panama.

FROM what has been faid relating to the commerce of Porto Bello in the time of the galleons, an idea may be formed of that of Panama on the fame occafion ; this city being the firft where the treafure from Peru is landed, and likewife the itaple for the goods brought up the river Chagre. This commerce is of the greateft advantage to the inhabitants, both with regard to letting their houfes, the freight of v^f-fels, the hire of mules and Negroes, who forming

themfelves

Ch. V. SOUTH AMERICA- 127 .

themfclves into feparate bodies, draw along ftpm Cruces large bales, or any brittle and delicate wares; the roads here, though the diftance is but fhort by eroding the chain of mountains called the Cordilleras, are in fome parts fo narrow, that a bead of burden can hardly pafs along; and, contcquently, an imminent danger would attend the employing of mules for this fervice.

This city, even during the abfence of the armada, is never without a great number of ilraiigers; it being the thoroughfare for all going to the ports of Peru, in the South Sea, as alfo for any coming from thence to Spain : to which mull be added, \he continual trade carried on by the Peruvian Ihips, which bring variety of goods, as meal of different forts, wines, brandy from grapes, or brandy caftilla, as it is called by all the Americans in thele parts,, fugar, tallow, leather, olives, oil, and the like. The lnips from Guayaquil bring cacao, and quinquina qv jeiuits bark; which always'meet with a quick exportation here, efpecialiy in time of peace. All goods, particularly thofe of Peru, are fubjedl to great alterations in their prices, fo that on many occafions the owners lofc confiderably, and fometimes their whole purchafe: ou the other hand, thers are favourable opportunities, when they triple it, according to the plenty or fcarcity of the commodity. The different forts of meal are in particular fubjedl to this accident ; they foon becoming {o extremely vitiated by the great heat, that there is an abfolute neceflity for throwing them overboard. The wines and brandies alfo, from the heat of the jars, contract a pitchy tafie, and are foon unfit for ufe. The tallow melts, becomes full of maggots, and turns into a kind of earth ; the fame may be ob-ferved of other goods. Hence, if the gain is fometimes great, the rifk of the lofs is proportional.

The coafting barks, which rqake frequent trips from the adjacent ports, fupply the cfly with hogs, poultry,

A hung-

i2« A VOYAGE TO Boofe IJI.

hung-beef, hogs-lard, plantanes, roots, and other eatables; with all which, this city, by the induftry of other?, is abundantly fupplied.

The Peru and Guayaquil vefiels, unlefs at the time when the armada is here, return empty, except when they have an opportunity of taking Negroes otf board ; as, while the affiento fubfifis, there is at Panama a factory, or office, which correfponds with that at Porto Bello; and hither the Negroes are brought, as being, in fome meafure, the ftaple for them, with regard to the kingdoms of Terra Finna and Peru.

Thb prefideftt of Panama is inverted with a power of licenfing every year one or two ihips, which go to Sonibnate, el Realejo, and other ports in the pro-* vince of Guatemala and NeW Spain, to fetch from thence tar, naphtha, and cordage, for the veffels belonging to the Panama tfade; they carry thither fuch parts of the Peruvian goods as do not find a market at Panama; but few of the Ihips which haye obtained this pcrmiffion return immediately; for the mod profitable part of their trade confiding of indigo, they make the beft of their way to Guayaquil, or other ports farther to the fouthvvard. The dearnefs of pro-vifions in this city and its diftri£l, occafioned by the large quantity required, and the great difiance from whenwc they are brought, is amply compenfated by the multitude and value of the pearls found in the oyfters of its gnlft and particularly thofc near the iilands del Rey, Tabaga, and others, to the number of 43, forming a fmall archipelago. The firft to whom the Indians made this valuable difcovery was Bafco Nunez de Balboa, who, in his pafiage this-way, to make farther difcoveries- on the South Sea, was prefenied with fome by Tumaco, an Indian prince. ( At prefent they are found in fuch plenty, that there are few perfons of fubftance near Panama, who do riot employ all, or, at leaft, part of their flaves in this fifliery, the manner of which not being com-% . ' - monly

Ch.V. SOUTH AMERICA. 129

monly known, it will not be improper to defcribe it here.

The owners of theNegroe^ employ the moft proper perfons for this fifhery ; which being performed at the bottom of the fea, they rnuft be expert fwimmers, and capable of holding their breath a long time. Thefe they fend to the iflands, where they have huts built for their lodgings, and boats which hold eight, ten, or twenty Negroes, under the command of an officer. In thefe boats they go to fuch parts as are known to produce pearls, and where the.depth of water is not above ten, twelve, or fifteen fathom. Here they anchor; and the Negroes having a rope fattened round their bodies, and the other end to the fide of the boat, they take with them a fmall weight, to accelerate their finking, and plunge into the water* On reaching the bottom, they take up an oyfier, which they put under the left arm ; the fecond they bold in their left hand, and the third in their right: with thefe three oyflers, and fometimes another in their mouth, they rife to breathe, and put them in a bag. When they have refted themfelves awhile, and recovered their breath, they dive a fecond time; and thus continue, till they have either completed their talk, of their ftrength fails them. Every one of thefe Negro divers is obliged daily to deliver to his mafier a fixed number of pearls; fo that when they have got the requifite number of oyfiers in their br.g, they begin to open them, and deliver the pearls to the officer, till they have made up the number due to their raafter; and if the-pearl be but formed, it is fufficient, without any regard to its being fmall or faulty. The remainder, however large or beautiful, are the Negro's own property, nor has the mafter the leaft claim to them; the flaves being allowed to fell them to whom they pleafe, though the mailer generally purchafes them at a very fmall price.

lfo,JL K Thesx

VjOOJ

1 jo A VOYAGE TO Book III.

These Negroes cannot every da^ make uj> their number, as in many of the oyfters the pearl is not at all, or but imperfedtly formed; or the oyfter is dead, whereby the pearl is fo damaged, as to be of no value; and as no allowance is made for fuch pearls, they muft make up their numbers with others.

Besides thejoil of this fifhery, from the oyfiers flrongly adhering to the rocks, they are alfo in no fmall danger from fome kinds of iifh, which either feize the Negroes, or, by flriking on them,crufh them

. by their weight againft the bottom. So that thefe creatures feem to know that men are robbing them of the moft valuable produdl of their element, and therefore make a vigorous defence againft their enemy. The fifhery on the whole coaft is obnoxious fo the fame danger from thefe fifh; but they are much more frequent where fuch riches abound. The ftiarks and tmtoreras, which are of an enormous fize, feed on the bodies of thefe unfortunate iifhermen; and the tnantas, or quilts, either prefs them to death by wrapping.their fins about them, or crufh them againft the rocks by their prodigious weight.. The name manta has not been improperly given to this fifh, either with regara to its figure or property ; for being-broad and long like a quilt, it wraps its fins round a man, or any other animal that happens to come within its reach, and immediately fqueezes it to death. This

. fifh refemblcs a thornback in fhape, but is prodigioufly larger.

Every Negro, to defend himfelf againft thefe animals," carries with him a (harp knjfe, with which, if the fifh offers to afiault him, he endeavours to flrike it in a part where it has no power to hurt him ; on which the fifh immediately flies. The officers keep a watchful eye on thefe voracious creatures, and, on difcover-ing them, fhake the ropes fattened to the Negroes* bodies, that they may be upon their guard; many, on the divers being in danger, have thrown themfelves*

into

VjOOQIC

Ch. V. SOUTH AMERICA. ~ 151

into the water, with the like weapon, andhaften down to their defence : but too often all their dexterity and brecaution is not* fufficient to protedt the diver from oeing devoured by thefe fifli, or lofing one of his legs or arras by their bite. Several ineffectual feherae$ have been pra&ifed, to prevent fuch melancholy accidents.

Th e pearls of thefe fiftieries are generally of a good water, and fome very remarkable, both in their fliape and fize; but as there is a difference in both thefe properties, fo there is alfo a difference in their water and colour; forae being highly valuable, and others as remarkably defe6tive. Some7 of thefe pearls, though indeed but few, are fent to Europe, the greater part being carried to Lima; where the demand for them is very great, being not only univerfally worn there by all perfons of rank, but alfo fent from thence into the inland parts of Peru.

Besides thefe pearls, the kingdom of^Terra Firma was formerly equally remarkable for thfe fine gold produced by the mines in its territories ; and which con-fequently „proved a very confiderable addition to its riches. Part of thefe mines were in the province of Veraguas, others in that of Panama ; but moft, alfo thcricheft, and whofe metal was of the fined quality, were in the province of Daricn ; and, on that account, the conflant object of the miners. But the Indians revolting, and making themfelves matters of the whole province, there was a neceflity for abandoning tbefe mines, by which means the greater part of them were loll; a few only remaining on the frontiers, which ftill yield a fmall quantity of gold. Their produce might indeed be increafed, did not the fear of the v fickle nature of the Indians, and the fmall confidence that can be placed on their apparent friendfhip, deter the roaftcrs of the mines from taking proper meafures for improving them.

K 2 Tflovot 1

Digitized^ G00gk

13* A VOYAGE TO Book IIL

Thoitqh the mines of Veraguas and Panama are not expofed to thefe dangers, yet they are not worked with more vigour than the others ; and this for two reafons : the firft is, that, befides their being lefs rich in metal than the others, the gold they yield is not of fo good a quality as that of Darien : the fecond, and indeed the moft weighty, is, that as thefe feas, by their rich produce of pearls, offer a more certain, and at fhe lame time a more eafy profit, they apply themi felves to thisfifhery preferably to the mines. Some, indeed, though but few, are worked, befides thofe above mentioned, on the frontiers of Darien.

Besides the advantage arifing to Panama from its commerce, as the revenue here is not equal to the dif-burfements, a very confiderable fum of money is annually remitted hither from Lima, for the payment of the troops, the officers of the audience, and others in employment under his majefty.

CHAP. VI.

Extent of the Audience of Panama, in the Kingdom of Terra Firma.

T^HE city of Panama is not only the capital of its particular prpvinee, but alfo of the whole kingdom of Terra Firma, which eonfifts of the three provinces of Panama, Darien, and Veraguas. The firft is the feat of every branch of the government, as being fituated between the other two ; Darien lying on the eaft fide, and Veraguas on the weft.

The kingdom of Terra Firma begins northwards at the river of Darien, and ftretching along by Nom-bre de Dio% Bocas del Toro, Bahia del Almirante, is terminated welt ward by the river de los Dorados in the north fea ; and towards the fouth fea, beginning on the wettern part, it extends from Punta Gorda, in

Cofta

Ch.VI. SOUTH AMERICA. .' 133

Cofta Rica, by Punta de Mjriatos, Morro dc Puercos, to the gulf of Darien ;* whence it continues fouth -ward along the coaft, by Puerto de Pinas, and Morro Quemado, to the bay of St. Bonaventura. Its length from eaft to weft is 180 leagues, but, if meafured alopg the coaft, it exceeds 230 ; and its breadth, from north to fouth, is the fame as that of the ifthraus, which includes the whole province of Panama, and part of that of Darien. The narroweft part of this ifthmus is from the rivers-Darien and Chagre, on the north fea, to thofe of Pito and Camito on the fouth fea: and here the diftance, from fea to fea, is about 14 leagues. Afterwards it increafes in breadth towards ChQco and Sitara; and the fame weftward in the province ofVeraguas, forming an interval of forty leagues from fea to fea.

Along this ifthmus run thofe famous chains of lofty mountains, called the Andes, which, beginning at fuch a prodigious diftance as the Terra Magellanica, traverfethe kingdom of Chili, the province of Buenos Ayres, and thence through the provinces of Peru and Quito; and from the latter, contract themfelves, as it were, for a .paffage through this narrow ifthmus. ' Afterwards, again widening, they continue their courfe through the provinces and kingdoms of Nicaragua, Guatemala, Cofta Rica, St. Miguel, Mexico, Guajaca, la Puebla, and others; with feveral arms or ramifications, for ftrengthening, as it were,,the fouthern with % the northern parts of America

In order to give the reader a comprehenfive idea of this kingdom, I fhall fpeak particularly of each of its three provinces, beginning with that of Panama as the principal. Moft of its towns and villages are fituated in fmall plains along the lhore,the reft of the country being covered with enormous and craggy mountains, uninhabited on account of their fterilit).

In this province are three cities, one town, a few forts, villages, and country feats; the names of

K 3 which*

i34 x A VOYAGE TO Book III.

which, with the tribes of the inhabitants, are here {Subjoined.

The citic^ are Panama, Porto Bello, and Santiago de Nata de los Cavelleros. The fituation of the latter was firft difcovered, in the year 1515, by captain - Alonzo Perez de la Rua, at which time Nata was prince of this diftridt. Gafpar de Efpinofa was firil comrmffioned to people it, under the title of a town. It was afterwards taken and burnt by the Indians, but he rebuilt it, and called it a city. It is large, but the chief houfes are only of earth, or unburnt bricks, and the others of mud walls. Its inhabitants are a mixture of Spaniards and Indians.

The town called los Santos is a modern fettlement of Spaniards, who before lived at the city of Nata, but, with a view of augmenting their fortune by improving the ground, left the city; and the inhabit-. ants o£ the town are at prefent more in number thai* thofe of Nata. Its environs were firft dilcovered by Rodrigo Valenzuela, and at that time contained an Indian town, governed by a prince called Guazan : the origin of the town fufficiently fhews it is peopled by Spaniards, and Indians.

The number of villages in this province is very confiderable, and of different kinds.

1. Nuestra Senora de Pacora, to which we give the preference, is inhabited by Mulattos and weir defendants. %. San Chriftoval de Chcpo owes its name to the

caciques, or princes, Chepo and Chepauri, and was difcovered in 1515, by Telio de Guzman. Befides Indians, here is a company of foot, belonging to the garrifon of Panama, mofl of whom, are fettled hens with their families.

Several Rancherias, or affemblagcs of Indian huts^ are under the jurifdicStion of a village. Thefe Rancherias are fituated to the fouthward, in the fmall chalms or breaches of the mountains. *

In

Ch. VI, SOUTH AMERICA. 135

In the favSnnahs of the river Mamoni are feveral fuch aflfemblages of hats, and within the fame jurif-di&ion; namely,

On the river de la Campana.

In the breach of Curcuti.

On the banks and at the mouth of the river Canas.

On the river del Platanar-

On the river de Pinganti. - On the river de Bayano.

In the breach de Tefralbe.

In that of Platanar.

In that of Calobre.

In that of Pugibay. % In that of Marcelo.

On the river de Mange.

Under thejurifdi&ion of the fame village are alfo the following Rancherias, fituated to the northwards.

On the river del Playon.

On the fmaller river de la Conceptipn.

On the river de Guanacati. *

On the river del Caco, or Mandinga.

On the river de Sarali.

3. The village of San Jaan, fituated on the road between Panama and Porto Bello, is inhabited by Mulattos and their defendants.

4. The village of Nueflra Sinor de la Confolation, a Negro fettlement.

5. The village de la Santiflima Trinidad de Chame, difcovered by captain Gonzalo de Badajoz, and called Chame from its prince at that time, is inhabited by Spaniards and Indians.

6." Theyillageof St. Ifidro de Quinones, difcovered by the fame officer, and then governed by its prince Totronagua: its prefent inhabitants Spaniards and Indians.

7. The village of St. Francifco de Paula, in the Cordillera; alfo inhabited by Spaniards and Indians.

K 4 8. The

igitized by%VJ OO*

^36 A VOYAGE TO Book III.

8. The village of St. Juan dePononome, fo called from the name of its cacique; its inhabitants are In- ' dians, who ft ill retain the bovv and arrow, at which they are very dexterous, and of an intrepid bravery.

9. The village of Santa Maria is fituatcd in a tra6l of land dilcovered by Gonzalo de Badajoz. The name of its laft prince was Eibolia ; it is at prefent wholly inhabited by Spaniards.

10. The village of Santo Domingo de Parita, the laft word being the name of its prince. It was formerly inhabited wholly by Indians, but at prefent there are many Spaniards among them.

n. Taboga, Taboguilla, and other iflands, near which the pearl fifneries are carried on, were difco-vered by the order of Pedro Arias Davila, the firft governor and captain-general of the kingdom of Terra Firma. In thefe iflands are houfes belonging to Spaniards, and huts for the Negro divers.

12. The iflands del Rey were difrovered by Gafper de Morales and captain Francifco Pizarro. In thefc iflands fome Spaniards have houfes, belides great numbers of Negrp divers. ^

Second Province of Terra Firma.

The fecond province of this kingdom is that of Veraguas, of which the city of Santiago is the capital. The firft who discovered thiscoaft was admiral Chrif-topher Columbus, in 1503. To the river now called Veragua, he gave the name of Verdes-aguas, on account of thegreen colour of its water; or, according to others, becaufe the Indians called it by that name in their language. But, however that be, it is from this river that the province derives its name. In 1508, the captains Gafpar de Efpinoia, and Diego de Alvi-rez, renewed the difcovery by land; but being re-pulfed by prince Urraca, were obliged to content themfelves \yith a fettlementin the neighborhood;

and

Ch. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 137

and even here the Spaniards were not able to maintain their ground againft the frequent incurfions of the Indians ; fo that finding the abfolute neceflity of a ftronger fettlement, they built the city of Santiago de Veraguas on the fpot where it now ftands-

Besides this city the province contains two others, and feveral villages.

The city of Santiago al Angel was founded in 1521 by Benedi6t Hurtado, governor of Panama: it has been twice deflroyed and rebuilt: the inhabitants partly Spaniards, partly Mulattos,

The city of Nueftra Senora de los Remedios dc Pueblo-Nuevo; the inhabitants the fame as thofe of the former.

1. The villages in this province are San Francifco de la Montana, inhabited by Indians ufing bows and arrows.

2. San Miguel de la Haya, inhabited by different forts of people.

3. San Maroelo de Leonmefa de Tabarana, inhabited by Indians.

4. San Raphael de Guaymi, by Indians.

5. San Philipe del Guaymi, by Indians.

6. San Martin de los Caftos, by Indians.

7. San Auguftin de Ulate, by Indians.

8. San Jofeph de Bugava, by Indians.

9. and jo. La Piedad, and San Miguel, by Indians.

11. San Pedro, and San Pablo delos Piatanares, by Indians.

12. San Pedro Nolofco, by Indians.

13. San Carlos, by Indians.

Third Province of Terra Firma.

The third province of Terra Firma is that of, Da-rien, where the greater part of the inhabitants are, wandering Indians, living without any religion, and in the pioft Ihocking barbarifm, which was indeed the

motive

i$ A VOYAGE TO Book III.

motive of their revolt. In 1716 there w^s here a con-iiderable number of villages, Rancherias,'and Doflri-Das *, whofe inhabitants had fw6rn allegiance to the king of Spain, and therefore under the governors of Panama; though, at preient, very few are remaining. Thofe remaining in the above-mentioned year, were,

i« The village and flaple for the mines of Santa Cruz deCana, a very confiderable fettlement of Spaniards and Indians.

2. The village de la Conception de Sabalo, inhabited Eke the preceding, but lefs populous.

3. The village of San Miguel dc Tayequa; inhabitants the fame.

4. The village of San Domingo de Balfas, inhabitants like the others, being Spaniards and Indians.

5. Spanifti village, in the territory of Santa Marica.

6. The Do&rina San Geronymo de Yabira, a word in the Indian language fignifying Doncel, i.e.a virgin; and for this reafon the river near it is called Rio Doncel, or Virgin river.

7. San Enrique de Capeti, or the fleepy.

8. Santa Cruz de Pucro. In the Indian language Pucro fignifies a fort of light wood, which, at Guayaquil, is called Balfa.

9. The Do&rina de San Juan de Tacaracuna, and Matarnati; the names of two of the mountains of the Andes, contiguous to the community.

10. The Indian village of San JofephdeZete-Gaati, is not a Do&rina. Zete-Gaati is the name of a kind of willow growing in the neighbourhood.

Rancberias and Hamlets in thefouthern Farts.

The hamlet of Nueftra Senora del Rofario de Rio Congo.

* A name, given by the Jefuits, to Indian communities, which they have gathered together and Civilized,

Other

$fc. VI. SOyTH AMEBJC4. ^39

Other hamlets on the rivers Zabalos, Balfas, and Urod.

On the river Tapanacul.

On the river Pucro,

On the banks and at the mouth of the river Paya.

At Jos Paparos, or thfc peafants.

Oo the river Tuqusfa.

' On the river Tupifa.

.On/the river Yabifa.

And at Chepigana.

Rancherias and Hamlets in the northern Parts*

On the river Queno. On the Seraque. On the Sutagunti. On the Moreti. On the Agrafenequa. On the Ocabajanti. On the Uraba.

All thefeDoflrinas and communities were formerly of Indians, and not inconfiderable, fome of the latter confiftingof 400 perfons; but their general number was between 150 and 200; from whence we may form an idea of the populoufnefs of thefe Do6trinas. - But, to fave the trouble of computing the leveral inhabited places in this kingdom, as I thought proper to infert tbeir names, I fhall conclude with a concife lift of all thefe places, which will affift the reader in forming fome idea of this country.

Recapitulation of all the inhabited Places in the Kingdom of Terra Firma.

Four fortrefies.

Six cities.

One town of Spaniards and Indians.

Thirty

Thirty-five villages.

140 A VOYAGE TO Book III.

"Eleven of Spaniards and Indians. Two of Mulattos and Negroes, Twenty-two of Indians, moil of

„ them Dodtrinas.

Thirty-two Rancher jas or hamlets, each containing ieveral cottages fcattered among the breaches, along the fides of rivers and favannahs.

Forty-three iflands, where thp pearl-tfifhery is carried on, fome of them in the bay of Panama, fome near the coaft of that city, and others fouth of Veraguas.

BOOK

Ch, I. SOUTH AMERICA. 141

BOOK IV.

Voyage from Perico Harbour to Guayaquil.

CHAP. I. Voyage from,Perifo to the City of Guayaquil*

OUR tents and other neceffaries being ready, we all embarked on board the St. Chriftopber, captain Don Juan Manuel Morel; and the next day, being the 22d of February 1736, we fet fail; but having little wind, and that variable, it was the 26th at fun-iet before we loft fight of the land, the laft ,we faw being Punta de Mala.

By remarks repeatedly made till we loft light of this laft point, and which agreed with obfervations, 'but differed from thofe by account, we found the fetting of the current to be S. W. 50 wefterly; which obferva-lion correfponded with the accounts given us by able pilots, who aflured us it continued to 3 or 4 degrees of latitude; and, according to their farther information, we corre&ed our daily account at one mile and one fixth per hour; and found their information to be well founded. But it is necefiary to obferve, that, till our fhip was off Punta de Mala, there was no vifi-ble current; and that, whilft we continued failing in the gulf of Panama, the latitude by account agreed witb the obferved.

From

142 A VOYAGE TO Book TV.

From the time we fet fail, till Purtta de Mala bore from us N. W\ 6° 30' wefterly, we continued to fleer S. S. W. i° 30' and 8° 30' wefterly : the winds variable with calms.

After pafling Punta de Mala, we fleered S. between 8° wefterly arid a° 30' eatferly, till fix in the evening of the firft of March 1736, when we discovered the fond contiguous to St. Matthew's bay. Upon which we flood to the S. W. to avoid a ledge of rocks, which runs three leagues into the fea, and alfo the currents, which fet towards it, and Gorgona bay.

This ledge of rocks was difcbvered in 1594* by a lnip's ftriking on it.

FktfM St/ Matthew's bay, we, for ibme fibers, fleered S. W. 6° 15' wefterly ; and the next day S. E. J foutherly ; which, being the third day, at one in the afternoon, brought us in light of Cape St. Francis^ bearing N. | eafterly.

According to the reckoning of Don George Juan, the difference of meridians between Panama and Cape St. Francis was o°36'; which nearjy*agrees with the map of this coafl.^ It mud, however, be fuppofed that the diftance between each knot on tfee log-line was47 feetby 5^ royal inches, which is equal to 505 Englifh feet: this confirms what we have already obferved* book I. chap. i. and proves the juftnefs of our obfer-vations on the currents.

Having weathered tins cape, we fleered W. 3* foutherly ; S. W. 30 weflerly; and on the 6th and 7th S. 70 eafterly, and S. E. 6° eafterly ; till on the 7th, at 8 in the morning, we again tnade Cape St. Francis, bearing N. 50 eafterly, and Cape PafTado S,; after which we coafted along fhore, obferving the mofl: remarkable parts, till the-9th, when, at half an hour after three in the evening, we came to an anchor in Manta bay, in eleven fathom water, the bottom mud

mixed

Ch. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 143

mixed with fanch Cape St. Lorenzo beating W.S. W. and Monte Chrifto S. S. E. 6° eafterly. '

Two reafons induced us to anchor here: the firft: was, that as part of the intention of our original voyage was to meafure fome degrees of the equator, befides thofe of the meridian; and having been informed, at Panama, of the fituation of this coaft, we were defirous of viewing it, in order to know whether, by forming our firft bafe on its plains, the feries of triangles coula be continued to the mountains contiguous to Quito: the fecond, the want of water and provifions-; for the feafon being pretty far advanced, we had flattered our-felves, while at Panama, with falling in with the brifas, and by that means of foon reaching Guayaquil-; and had therefore taken in provisions only for fuch a fhqrt voyage.

In order to fatisfy ourselves with regard to our firft and principal vfew, we all went on fhore on the 10th in the evening to the village of Monte Chriflo, about two league? and a half from the poaft. But we foon foundx any geometrical operations to be impradi-cable there, the country being every where extremely mountainous, and almoft covered with prodigious trees, an infurmountable obftru#ion to any foch de-fign. This being farther confirmed to us by the Indian inhabitants, we determined to purfue our voyage to GuayaquiJ, and thence to Quito. Ac* cordingly on the 11th we returned to the coaft of Manta, where, whilft the fhip wsfs taking in water and provifion, we employed ourfelves in making ob-fervations ; by which we found the latitude of thift place to be o° 56' 5^" fouth. But Meflrs. Bouguer and de la Gondamine, refle6ling thaf our ftay at Guayaquil would be confiderable before the feafoa would permit the mules to come from Guaranda to carry us to the mountains, and defirous of making the beft ufe of their time, determined to flay here, in order to make further' obfervations on the long**

* tude

144 A VOYAGE TO Book IV.

tude and latitude, that they might ascertain the place where the equator cuts this eoaft, examine the length of the pendulum, and make other obfervations equally / important. Accordingly proper inflruments were left with them.

Ori'the 13th of the fame month of March, our ve£-|el put to fea, keeping along the coaft, and pafled the next day within tiie ifland de la Plata. The 15th we began to lofe fight both.of Cape St. Lorenzo, and alfo of the ifland; at one in the afternoon we fleered S. S. EL till the 17th, when we difcovered Cape Blanco, the ibuth point of the bay of Guayaquil. From Cape Blanco we.coafted along the bay, till, about noon on the 18th, coming to the mouth of the river Tumbez, we anchored about half a league from the land ; the river's mouth bearing E. 5 degrees northerly, and the ifland of Santa Clara, commonly called Amortajado, or Muerto, from its refembling the figure of a human corpfe, N. 4 deg. eafterly, in fourteen fathom water, and a muddy bottom.

Some particular affairs of the captain of the fhip obliged us to remain here till the 20th, when, at fix in the morning, wc weighed; and at half an hour after fix in the evening, the ftrength of the current on the ebh obliged us to come to an anchor. Thus we continued anchoring every ebb, and failing during the flood. And here we found that the durrent always fets out of the bay, though with much lets velocity on the flood than on the ebb ; for we obferved that the tide never altered its direction in icjhoursandahalf. The caufc of this phenomenon is fuppofed to be, the prodigious quantity of water discharged into it by the rivers. On the 23d, having come to an anchor off Punta de Arenas in the ifland of Puna, we fent on ihore for a pilot to carry in our fhip; for, though the cfiftance was only feven leagues, the great number of fhallows in this fhort pailage rendered a precaution of this kind prudent, if not abfolutely necef-

faiy*

Ch.I. SOUTH AMERICA.^ 145

fary. And on the 24th, at feven in the morning, we fefely anchored in Puna harbour; Cape Centinela bearing S. S. W. 20 30' wefterly, and Gape Maria Mandinga W. N. W\ i° 15' wefterly, diftant one quarter of a league.

From Punta de Mala to St. Matthew's bay, we had the* wind firft at N. and N. W.; afterwards it (hifted to the N. E. and during the laft day veered to the E. N. E.; but when we came in fight of this bay, changed again to N. being preceded by rains, which continued till our arrival at Manta, the winds Laving fhifted to the S. E. fouth, and S. W. and weft, but with fome variations from all thofe points.

I have already mentioned that at St. Matthew's^ bay, it was not only the opinion of the pilots relating to the currents which fet towards Gorgona, but alfo our own experience, that induced us to alter our courfe, which was neceflary, in ofrder to continue our voyage.. All the reft of the coaft, from.Cape St. Francis to Manta, they fet to the N. and *this prevented us from getting to windward, and obliged us to tack, as the wind was contrary.

In our paflage from Manta to Cape Blanco, the7 winds Were not lefs favourable, continuing as before, except a few gales at N. W. and N. N. E. till we made the above cape. The currents here alfo fet to the northward; and from Cape Blanco to Puna harbour, to feaward, that is, towards the weft ; but, as we have before obferved, a greater velocity on the ebb than on the flood.

Being very defirous of obferving ari eclipfe of the moon, which was to happen on the 26th of March, and our time for preparing for it being but fhort, we concluded to ftay at a little village fituated in this harbour; but finding thefe houfes, which were entirely built of canes, too weak to fupport the pendulum, we determined to make the beft of our wagr to Guayaquil ;t and accordingly, at half an hour aftetf

Vol. I. L eleven

i46 A VOYAGE TO Boo?: IV.

eleven at night, we left the fliip at anchor, and went to the city in a boat; and, at five in the evening of the 25th, by the vigour of ,our rowers, we arrived at Guayaquil, notwtihftanding the firengfh of the tide again ft us. Here we immediately applied ourlelves to fettle the pendulum; but our diligence was entirely fruftrated, the arir being fo filled with vapours, that nothing was to be feen.

It may not be amifs here to infert the variations we obferved in different parts of the South Sea, in the fame order with thofe obferved from Cadiz to Cartbagena.

A Table of Variations obferved in feveral Parts of the South Sea, the Longitude reckoned from the Meridian of Panama.

Latitudes. deg. min.

8 17N.

7 7

3

o

o o o

49

3° 02

55 5* 36 20

22 S.

Longitude, deg. min.

359 55

359 4a

3i 18

21

43 06

Variation, deg. min.

8 45 E.

359 359 35* 358

359

358 358 359

40 56 50

7

7

7

7 8

7 7 8

34 49 59 34 20 29/

25 3° 17

51 Monte Cbrifto bearing S. E. \ foutherly. 8 OO

Island de la Plata, bearing S. I5°45' vvefierly, d Monte Chrifto E. S. E. 70 46'

00 30W.

and Monte Chrifto E. S

2 18S. Cape Blanco S. S. W. Punto de Mero. eaft diftant 3 leagues

r

r

northerly,")«

100

On

Ch. I. SQUTH AMERICA. 147

On the copft of Sumber, of which thc> «0 , latitude by qbferv^tion was 30 14' J

We fhould, for feveral days, have been without knowing certainly the latitude, an objedl of the lafj: importance in any voyage, had not Mr. Godin had the precaution to tyke with him a Hadley's quadrant. This ingenious gentleman having been pitched upoa jfor the voyage to America, undertook ,a journjey tp London, purely to purchafe feveral inftruments, and .among qthcirs bought that already mentioned; an4 Ivhich proved of the greateft ufe to us, in finding the jlatitpdp (luring this paflage; a point tl\e jnpre difficult and neceffpry, on account of feveral perplexing cirevwofiances; the cqurie being fometimes north, fometimes fouth* and the currents fetting in the fame dire&ion. Afl|ifted by this inftrument, we were epa-Jbled to t^kpthe jmeridian altitude of the fun, whilft, from the denfity of the vapoqrs which filled the at-jpofphfcre, the fhadow could not be defined on the ufu^i instruments.

CHAP. II. Account of the Voyage from Perico to Puna.

THE briias, by their return, as we before observed, occafion an alteration in the weather of Panama, by introducing the fummer, as they alfo do in the paflage from Perico,to Puna; W, more properly, to Cape Blanco: for, after the brilas have begun to blow at Panama, they gradually increafe and fpread, in oppofition.to the fouth winds, till, overcoming them, they are fettled: but their periods! are not always equal, either on the land or in tfye ocean. Generally the fmfas do pot reach beyond t\\e equator, or are fo feint, as pften to be interrupted by calms, ,flr qtfier .^e^k #nd pnfettl^d win(Js. .Sptoetimes, in-

L 2 deed,

148 A VOYAGE TO Book IV.

deed, they have an Extraordinary ftrength, being felt even to the ifland of Plata. But their greateft force is gradually increafed as we approach nearer to Panama. Thefe winds, which blow from between the N. and N. E. clear the atmofphere, free the coaft from fogs, and are not attended with tempefts of rain; but frequently fo fqually, efpecially between Cape Francifco and the Bay of Panama, that, without particular care and the utmoft difpatch in putting the fhip in a proper condition, they are often dangerous.

At the period of the brifas, the fures or fouth winds begin to blow; and, when fettled, are more violent than the former. But they do not, as many have imagined, blow always precifely from the fouth; for they ihift from the S. E. even to the S. W: and their diftance from the S. i$ obferved to be greateft at particular times. When they incline to the S. E. ^Vhich is the land fide, they are accompanied with violent, but happily fhort, tempefts of wind and rain. The (hips which trade from the coafls of Peru and Guayaquil to Panama, generally (ail during the fures, in order to take the benefit of the north wind at their return; and, by that means, their vpyages are eafily and expeditioufly performed. Sometimes, indeed, they fail with other winds, though they are generally longer at fea, in order to reach Paita; but often this diligence, or rather avarice, is fo far ditappointed, that they are obliged to put in at Tumaco, Acames, Manta, or Punta de Santa Elena, for provifions and water.

These are the principal winds in this paflage; and whatever changes may fometimes happen, they are not of any continuance, the fettled wind foon recovering its place.

The currents, in thefe parts; are not fo regular as the winds; for, during the brifas, the waters run from Monro de Puercos S, W* and W. to the

height

Ch. H. SOUTH AMERICA. 14$

height of Malpclo; and from thence E. and E. S. E. to Cape St. Francis, -inclining fomething towards Gorgona* From Cape St. Francis their dire&ion is S. and S. W. which continues for 30 or 40 leagues feawards, the ftrerigth of them being proportionate to that of the brifks. . *

During the feafon of the fures, or fouth winds, the currents run ' N. and N. W. from Punta de Santa Elena, as far as Cape St. Francis, extending thirty or forty leagues feawards; from hence (they run with a great velocity eaft, as far as the meridian of Malpelo; and from Morro de Puercos S E along thjB coaft, though at fome diftance from it, and tending partly to the bay of Gorgona. But from the meridian of MaL-pelo to Morro de Puercos, they run with great vior lence N. W. and W. Alfo in the paflage from Cape Blanco to Cape Santa Elena, a violent current runs weft from the river of Guayaquil, during itsfwellings; but when the river is low, the; current fets into Puna bay: the time of the former is during the.brifas, ancj. the latter in the feafon of the fures.

At all times, in leaving Perico to fail to Guayaquil, or the coaft of Peru, care muft be taken to keep at a proper diftance from the iflandof Gorgona, mauy in-fiances having happened of ftiips being loft either by this negligence, or, more frequently, by calms. It is alio equally neceflary to be careful of the ifland of Malpelo; but the latter is of the two the leaft dangerous, as the greateft detriment is only a longer delay of the voyage.

If a fliip happens to come in fight of the ifland of Gorgona, it will be found very difficult to get clear of it by fteering either S. S. W. or even N. lb that the fureft method is*to return towards Panama along the coaft, the currents there changing their direction ; at the fame time taking, care not to keep at a great distance from it, to avoid being again carried away by the current, which fets S. E.

L 3 Tbk

Goog

*Sb A VOTAGE TO BoUkW.

T?hb liiidatl dottg the coafi from Pawirfm' to SantA Eletta is of a middling heigfit, except in fot®$ pferts> Where we dffcerii mountains at a vaft diftance, and very high; being part of the Cordillera. Moivte Chrifto is the land-mark of Manta, beifcg^ a high mountain, and having a village of the femd name at its foot.

' In the bays along this eoaft, and particularly at the WoUtbs of rivers, it is dangerous to keep fclofe to the fliGre* there beihg many ffralloWs not known even tb the pilots Of the country. In the bay of Manta, there is one at the diftance of three br four leagues frota the ihore, Oft which fevefal ftiips.have ftruck; but the water is here fo fmooth, that all the dartoage they lbftalned Was, their being obliged to be immediately fcateeited, in oFder to flop the leaks Oceafiohed by the &ccidefit.

In all this paflage a rough fed is feldorti met with; fot> if it tte fometimes afgiteted by fqualfe and fitdrfc fcertipelte, it fobn fubfides aftfer fhfc ftorfty ii over. Whilfl the fouth winds prbrail, f6gs< are vefy fre-<judtft, and fofneitirhes fo thick as totafttytfo preclude all fight of the coiafl. This we ourfelvfes partly experienced In our paflftge ? whereas, during the briiks, it is quite the contrary ; the air is ferene* and th<6 eoaft lb fclear as to be ipptbached with confidence andrfafety.

CHAP. III.

Of our Stay at Guayaquil, [arid the Meafures taken for our Journey to the Mountains.

THE (hip St. Chriftopher, ithich we left at Punk, followed us fo foonr that on the 26th in the evening ihe came to an Anchor before the city; the next day #11 our baggage and inftruments weite landed, and we began our obfervatiohs for determin-

.Ga. lit" SOUTH AMERICA. *51

iwg tbfc fltuation of Guiyaqotl* with regtftd to its latitude and longitude. The defire of fucc^eding ren* dered us very attentive to obferve an immerfion of the iatelljtes of Jupiter, to make amends for our difap* pointjnent of the eclipfe of the Moon; but we were in this equally unfortunate; the denfity of the vapours which fitted the atmofphere rendered our dcfign abortive ; but, the days being more favourable than the nights for aftronomical obfervations, we took fcveral meridian altitudes of the Sun, and never negledted any opportunities that offered, during the nights, of doing the fame with regard to fome particular flars.

Oh our arrival at Guayaquil, the corregidor of that city, whofe great civility, together with that of all the king's officers and other pcrfons of diftinflion, deferves ofcr acknowledgments, fent notice of it to the oorregidor of Guaranda, that he might order carriages to the port of Caracol, for conveying us to the moun-ta*ri*. The paffage thither was then indeed impracticable; it being iri thia country the end of winter, at which time the roads ate extremely bad, and the rivers welted fo as not to be forded without the greatefi rifk, and too wide for the bridges of this country.

Tbb c6fregidor of Guaranda was then at Quito on fome btofinefs of his office ; but the prefident and governor of that province, Don Dionyfio de Alcedoy Herrera, ordered him to return to his jurifttf6Hon without delay, for providing every thing neceffary for our journey; fending, at the fame time, circular orders to all the other corregidors, through whofe jurisdictions we were to pafs to Quito, enjoining them not to be wanting in any kind of good office in their power. Every thing being thus happily difpofed, and advice arriving that the mules were on their way to Caraco}, where they arrived the 6th of May, we were no lefe expeditious to embark on the river* which is the ufual paffage. There i& indeed a road by land ; but at all times extremely difficult and dangerous, on ac-

h 4 count

i$z A VOYAGE TO Book IV.

count of the many bays and large rivers which mufl: be pafied; fo that no perfon travels this road but in fummer, and then only fuch as have no baggage, and are, befides, well acquainted with the country and the ferries. i

CHAP. IV. .

Defcription of Guayaquil.

rPHOUGH there is no certainty with regard to the time when Guayaquil was founded, it is univer-fally allowed to be the fecond city of Spanifh origin, .both in its own province and the kingdom of Peru,; Jt appearing, from ancient records, preferved in its ar* chives, that it was the next city founded after San Miguel de Piura; and the foundation laid of Los Reyes, Remac, or Lima, being in 1534, or, according to others, in 1535, the building of Guayaquil may be fixed between thofe two years; but the pro-fperity it attained under its governor Belalcazaf was of no long continuance, being, after feveral furious attacks, entirely deftroyed by the neighbouring Indians. It was, however, in 1537, rebuilt by captian Fran-cifco de Orellana. The firft fituation of Guayaquil was in the bay of Charapoto, a little to the northward of the place where the village, of Monte Chriflo now fla.nds; from whence it was removed to the prefent fpot, which is on the weft bank of the river pf Guayaquil, in 20 11' 21" of fouth latitude, as appeared from our oblervations. Its longitude was not determined by any accurate obfervations : but, by computing it from thofe made at Quito, it is 297° 17' reckoning from the meridian of Tenerifte. On its removal by Orellana, from its firft fituation, it was built on the decliyity of-a mountain called Cerillo Verde, and is no\y termed Ciudad Vieja, or the old

town.

.

«fc. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 153

town. Its inhabitants being afterwards ftraitened by the mountain on, one fide, and by ravines or hollows made by floods of rain on the other, formed a defign, without entirely abandoning the place, to build the principal part of the city at the diitance of five or fix hundred toifes; which was accordingly begun in 1693; and tor preferving a communication with the old part, a bridge of timber was erected, of about three hundred toifes in length, by which means the inconveniences of the ravines are avoided, and, the intervals being filled with (mall houfes, the old and nfcw towns are now united.

This city isof considerable extent, taking up, along the bank of the river from the lower part of the old town to the upper part of thefnetv> near half a league; but the breadth is not at all proportional, every per-fen being fond, of having a houfe near the river, both for the amufements it affords, and for the benefit of refreshing winds, which, in winter, are the more, eagerly coveted as they are very rare.' .

All the houfes of both towns are built of wood, and many of them covered with :tiles; though the greater part of thofe in the old town are only thatched; but in order to prevent the fpreading of fires, by which this city has feverely fuffered on feve-raloccafions, fuch covering is now prohibited. Moft of thefe conflagrations owed their rife to the malevolence of the Negroes, who, in order to revenge fome punilhments inflicted on them by their matters, took the opportunity, during the night, of throwing fire on the thatch, and by that means not only ruined thofe who were the immediate objedls of their revenge, but alfo the greater part of the inhabitants of the city.

Though the houfes are wholly built of wood, they are generally large and beautiful; have all one fiory and an entrefole; the back part of the ground floor fervesfor \yarehoufes; in the front are ihops of all.

kinds,

i5* 'A'VQWtGK TO ' Bd6k IV.

kinds, *'ttd" gfcttfirally before then* fpacitfoa porticoes, which in winter are the only parts where you can tfalk, the ftreets being utterly impaflable.

As a further precaution againll fire, which they have fo much reafon to dread, the kitchens ftand twelve or fifteen paces from the houfes, with which they communicate by means of a long open gallery, rdfettiblfag a bridge; but fo lightly built, that, on thre leaft appearance of fire in the kitchen* it is demolished in an inftant; by which means the houfe isprefervedL Pfcrfons of rank and fortune live in the upper apartments, and the entrefoles are let to ftrangcrs who cotoe to trade, or pafs'through the city with their gdods, " _ *

The ground on which the new ^ity is built, and the favannahs in its neighbourhood, ate not to be ttevei-led over either on foot or horfbback dbying the wk*-*er; for, befides being a fpongy chalk, it fe^very whefre fo level, that there is no declivity for carrying off the water; and therefore, on the firft rain, if becomes one general flough. So that, from thfe tinte of thte rairts fetting in till the end of winter, it is necef-fery to lay in the parts not covered by the above- ^ mentioned pia-zzas, very large planks for crofling over them; but thefe foon become flippery, and od-cafion frequent falls inta the chalky ftougb. The return of fummer, however, foon exhales the water, . and renders the ground fufficientiy dry for travelling. In this refpetft the old town has the advantage, being built on a gravelly foil, which is never impafifable.

Trtis city is defended by three forts, two art the river near the city, and the third behind it> guarding the entrance of a ravine.. Tb^fe atfe all built after the * modern method of fortification ; but, before they were ere&ed, it had only a platform, which is ft ill remain- s ing in the old town. Thefe forts are built of large pieces of very hard wood, forming a variety of pal-* lifades, aiid the wood is particularly proper for this

country,

CM. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. tis

country, and the ufe it is here applied to; retaining its folidity either under the water or in the mud. Before thefe fortifications were ere&ed, the city was taken by European corfairs, in the years- i685 ami 1709; but the fuccefs of the latter was owing to the villany of a Mulatto, who, in order to revenge him-felftf&fotne particular perfons in the city, conduced the enemy tfatough a by-\*ay, where they were not expe&ed; fo that the inhabitants^ being fbrprifed, were Hot prepared for defence.

Ail the chtircljes and convents are of wood, except that bf St. Domingo, flill ftanding in the old townf which is of ftone; the great folidky of the ground ift that part being fufficient for fupporting buildings df this kind. The convents in the new cfty, befidei the parochial church, *re an Aaguftine and a Fran-cifcan, with a college of Jefuifs; the members of them not very numerous, on accourif of thfe fmallneft t>f thd reveres. Here is aifo an hqfptta*, but with-orit afly tftttee endowment than the (hell of the building. Thfe d*y atid its jiirifdiQfion are untfer a corregi-<$6f, ilOitHnated by the king, who holds his offictf during fivfc years. Notwithstanding he is fubordinate to the ptefid^ift and audience of Quito, he appoints the 'deputises fry the fevfcfal departments of tits jurif8j$ion s aiid, for thifc pblicd &nd civil government, Guayaquil has ordiftSry alcaldes arid regidores. The revenue is managed here by a treafurer and an accomptatrt, who receive the tributes of the Indians, the duties on imports and exports, and the taxes on commodities, which are either confutaed there, or carried through it.

The ecclefiaftiqal government is lodged in tli6 biftobp of Quito's vicar, who is generally alfo the prieft of the town.

CHAP,

Digitizedlby

156 A VOYAGE TO Book IV,

CHAP. V, '

Of the Inhabitants* Cujioms, and Riches of , ; Guayaquil.

GUAYAQUIL contain*,, in proportion to its dimensions, as many inhabitants as any city in all America; the continual refort of Grangers, drawn thither by commerce, contributing very greatly to in-creafe, the number, generally computed at twenty ihoufand. A great part of its eminent families arc Europeans, who have married there; befides which, and lubffantial ^Creoles, the other inhabitants are of different caijs, as in the cities already described.

The inhabitants capable of bearing arms, are di* vided mto companies of militia, according to their rank and.caft; fo that on pecafion they may be ready to defend their copatry and property. One of thefe confifting entirely of Europeans, and called the foreign company, is the moft, numerous, a$d makes the moft fplendid appearance among the whole militia. ^Without confidering their wealth or ftation, they appear in arms, and pay a proper obedience to their officers, who are chofen by themfelves, from their own jbody, bei^g*generally fuch as have ferved in Europe, and, confequently, more expert in military affairs. The corregidor, is the commander in chief; having under him a colonel and major, for difciplining the other companies.

Though the heat here is equal to that of Panama, lor Cartbagena, yet the climate diflinguiflbes itfelf in the colour of the human fpecies ; and if a certain author has fly led it the equino&ial Low Countries, in allufion to the refemblanceit bears to the Netherlands of Europe, it may, with equal propriety, bear that appellation from this Angularity, namely, that all the natives, except thofe born from a mixture of blood,

are

Ch.V. SOUTH AMERICA. 157

are frefli-cgloured, and fo finely featured, as juftly to be ftyled the bandfomeft, both in the province of Quito, and even in all Peru. Two things are here ' the more remarkable, as being contrary to common obfervation; one, that, notwithftanding the heat of the climate, its natives are not tawny ; the other, that, though the Spaniards have not naturally fo fair a complexion as the northern nations, their children born here of Spanifh. women are very fair; nor has this phenomenon hitherto been fufficiently explained. To attribute it to the effluvia exhaling from the contiguous river, appears to me little fatisfa&ory; other cities having the lame advantageous tituation, without producing any improvement in the complexions of the inhabitants ; whereas here fair per-ibns are the mofl common, and the children have univerfally light hair and eyebrows, and very beautiful (aces.

To thefe perfonal advantages beftowed by nature in a difiinguiihed manner on the inhabitants, it has added the no lefs pleaftng charms of elegance and politenefs ; fo that feveral Europeans, who intended only a fhort flay here, have married and fettled ; nor were their marriages owing to the itnmcnfe for tunes of their ladies, as in fome other cities of this country, the inhabitants not being at all famous for their riches.

The drefs of the women at Guayaquil nearly re-fcmbles that at Panama, except only when they either pay or receive a vifit; inftead of the pollera, they wear a faldeilin, which is not longer than the pollera, but, being open before, and crofling one fide over the other, is adorned in themoft prolufc manner. It is furbeloed with a richer. fi<iff, near half a yard in depth, and bordered with fine laces, gold or fringe, or ribands, difpofed with an air which renders the drefs extremely rich and becoming. When they go abroad without a veil, they wear a light brown* co-# loured

i58 A VOYAGE TO Book IV.

loured maptrfet, bordered with broad drips of Mack velvet, but without laces or any other decorations* Beiides necklaces and bracelets, they wear rofaries, of the fame degree of richnefs as at Panama; and not only load their ears with brilliant pendants, but add tufts of black filk, about the fize of a filberd, and Co full of jewels as to make a very fplendid appearance.

From the commerce of this city, a firaqger would imagine it richer thai) it actually is. This is partly owing to the two dreadful pillages it has fuffered, and partly to fires, by both which it has been totally ruined. And though the houfes here, as already ob-ferved, are only of wood, the whole charge of which is the cutting and bringing it to the city; yet the ex-penfe of a houfe of any figure amounts to 15 or 20,000 dollars, workmen's wages being very high* and iron remarkably dear. Europeans, who have raifed any thing of a fortune here, when they have no immoveable goods to detain them, retire to Lima, or fome other city of Peru, where they may improve their flocks with greater fecurity.

CHAP. VI.

Of the Temperature of the Air% and the different Seafons at Guayaquil; its Inconveniencies and Dijlempers.

IN Guayaquil, the winter fets in during December, .fometimes at the beginning, fometimes in the middle, and fometimes not till the end of the month, and lafts till April or May. During this feafon, the elements, the infe&s, and vermin, feem to have joined in a league to incommode the human ipecies. Its extreme heat appeared from fome thermometrical experiments ; ftayon the jd of April, when its iotenfenefe had

begun

Qh. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. ifr

begun to.abate* at fix in the morning the liquor flood at 1022; at noon at 1025^ an(* at three in the afternoon at 1027 ; which (hews the heat in the middle of winter to be greater than at Carthagena. The rains x alfo continue day and night, accompanied with frequent and dreadful tempeftsof thunder and lightning; fo that every thing feems to coufpire to diftrefe the inhabitants. The river, and all thofe which join it, overflow their banks, and lay under water the, whole country. The long calm renders the refrefhing winds very defirable ; and the innumerable fwarms of infeite and vermin infeft both the air and ground in an intolerable manner,

Thb fnakes, poifonous vipers, fcorpions, and fcolo-pendrae, in this feafontind methods of getting into the houfes, to the defiru&ion of many of the inhabitants. And though they are not actually free from them all the reft of the year, yet at this time, they are far more numerous, and alfo more a&ive; fo that it is absolutely necefl^ry to examine carefully tbe beds, fome of thefe animals having been known to find their way into them : and both as a fafeguard againft the danger, and to avoid the tortures of the mofctiitos and other infe&s, all perfons, even the Negro flaves and Indians, have toldos or canopies over their beds, Thofe ufed by the lower clafs of people are made of tucuyo, or cotton, wove in the mountains ; others ule white linen laced, according to the temper or ability of the owner.

Though all thefe hot and raoift countries fwarm with an infinite variety of volatile infedls, yet the inhabitants are no where fo greatly incommoded as at Guayaquil, it beiflg impofiible to keep a candle burning, except in a lantern, above three or four minutes, numberlefs infe&s flying into its flame and extinguifh-ing it. Any.perfon therefore being obliged to be near a light, ie ii>on driven from his poft by the infinite numbers which fill his* eyes, ears, and noftrils. Thefe 4 - infedU

"

tiSo A VOYAGE: TO Book IV.

infefls were almoft infupportable to lis, during the ihort clear intervals of fome nights, which we fpent in making obfervations on the heavenly bodies. Their (lings wire attended with great tortures; and more than once obliged us to abandon our obferva-tions', being unable either to fee or breathe for thefe* multitudes *.

Another tecrible inconvenience attending the houfes here, are tifc numbers of pericotes, or rats ;' every building being fo infefled with them, that, when' night cpfties on, they quit their holes, and make fuch a noHe in running along the ceiling, and in-clambering up and down the fides of *the rooms and canopies of the beds, as to difturb perfons not accuftomed to them. They are fo little afraid of the human fpecies,' that, if a candle be fet down without being in a lantern, they immediately carry it off; but, as this might be attended with the raoft melancholy confcquences, care Js taken, that their impudence is feldom put to this trial, though they are remarkably vigilant in taking advantage of the lead n'egledh All thefe inconveniences, which feem infupportablc to Grangers, and alone fufficient to render fuch a country uninhabited,, little affe<£t the natives, as having been uftd to them from their infarlcy: they are more affe£ted with cold on the mountains, Which the Europeans fcarce feel, or, aHeafl, think very moderate, than with all thefe difogreeable particulars.

The lead troublcfome feafon is the fummer, as then both the number and activity of thefe vermin are di-minifhed ; it being a miftake in fome authors to fay they abound moft in that feafon. The heat is then abated, by the fetting-in of the S. W. and W. S. W. breezes, called here chandui, as coming over a moun-

* This account is too hyperbolical. They are, however, trouble-fbme enough, and almoft itifupportable, throughout all South America, except in the plains and deferts. A,

tain

C& yjut scrara America. &t

tfcm>*f-th*f tnao^I i 'Jhefe begiu^ooftantif at noony ainl tontiaucito/osfrdb the earth till fi^ or fix in fb£ following, njorning. > iThe Iky is always ferene and bright, t far gcntte& (bowers being tardy known: Pf6-> vifioofe are in greater plenty, and thofe produced i» tiie jwuntty ofi a xctj agreeable tafte, if ufed while ftdih.t'Frtiitd ase more common, efpecially melons and watery rodent which are brought in large balsaa *UT, tibe oityv But; the capital advantage is the remarkable1 feiubrity of the dir in that feafon. ' >

. DurIhg the winter, tertian fevers are vsrycom* mon,and ate here particularly painful and dangerous, owing partly to negledt, and partly to an avediontot the ufe of the bark, being prepoffefied<with a notion,' that on account of its hot quality it can have no good effetft in that climate rfo th*t, blinded with this pre--judice, without ever cQofultingphyficians, who would undeceive them, they fuffer the diftemper to prey upon thrift tjijl they Jtft often reduced fo an itrik coverable ftate. The natives of th? mountains, who are enuned to a cold air; cannot endure that of Gtia^ yaquii, it having a natural tendency to debilitate them; and by at) intemperate ufe of its delicious fruits they throw themfelves into thofe fevers, which are as common to them in one feafon as another.

Besides this difoate, which is the moft general,* fince the year 1740 the black vomit has alfo made its appearance, the galleons of the South Sea having, <m account of the war, touched here in order to fe-cure the tteafure among the provinces of the Cortlil-Wa* At that time great numbers died on board the ihips, together with many foreigners, but very few of the natives. In faying that the galleons brought

i * Called by the natives jungadas: they are rafts made by pinning or tying feveral bodies of (mall trees together j the author defcribet them particularly ia the next chapter. A. B

Vol. h . M* thi*

1*1 /a Voyage rr&t Bo*Ki\k

tjws diftemper to Guayaquil, I follow Iter' gttie&f opinion, ts it was before thai epocha unknown the!*,; ; The nativos are very fubjefl to catara6U, and other* dkkknpers ofithe eye, which often caofe a. total blinds sefa.-r Tboqgh' thefe diftempers are not general/yet tfotojr are- much wore common tban in otter ports; 3nd I am inclined to think it proceed? from the aqueous iciihalatlows during the winter, when the whole Qdunfcry-'is overflowed with water, and which,:from the chalky texture of the foil, muft be Vifeidin the* hjgbcft degree.; and, penetrating the external ttmic, i^otonly fool the cryflalhrie humour, btrtalfo cover the pupil, from <whenoe cfetara&s, and other disorders qftbe eyes*, have (heir origin. *

b. < ' : ** >', s " < ''

;.'./"'.; -7 ,char Y11* " ' -.i " ' :

Provifions>, *nd Manner of Living at Guayaquil.'

HERE, as at Carthagena* nature and neceffity have introduced fdveral kinds, of bread, made from different grains and roots* to fupply tbewant of wheat. The mod ufual here i* the criollo, or natural bifead, being unripe plantane$,cut into flices^ roafted, and ferved up as bread.,. But this is dot entirely owing to neceffity, as fcveral kinds of meal might eafily be brought from the neighbouring mountains in fuf* iicient quantities to fupply all the inhabitants of the city; though only a fmall (hare of it would fall to the lot of the poor, on account* of the price, which vaftly' exceeds that of the plantancs. However this be, the letter are defervedly preferred to whsat bread, which is fo badly made, that even the Europeans refufe to eat it, and accuilom themfelves to the criollo, which is far- from being unpalatable.

Most of the other provifidns, except beef, fruits, iipd roots, are imported from the provinces of the

Cordelv

C*i ¥lfcfl SOUTH [AHmSVto xfc<

Cor4e%»|iartd; Peru? s ftbvtottld titfutflty be esped-ed^tha* jtfr*>£fr«M bnahches of Ibis ri*cr, - which i afcourj<feria fiftii wxfcld caufe a grdat plenty of them in tfee.cityzf, .but,it te^ qpke otherwife, and the final! qw&rtity'cwgjrt D$ar»tt <*# far from beipg good, and iojbonjbi-tbat.nooiB hut: the; inhabitants can eat then without ,d«jftger. > .Their badnefe in the neighbourhood Qf ibc city ia probably owag ta the brftckilh water, ;> l*qt fog&e leagues above the city, the. river, affords at. £*eftt-fupply of what is very excellent.. In fuch hot) climate*, however, they cannot be kept without fait; and it is feldom the fi(hen»en venture to carry any to thdicity, left, after-all their labour, they fhould be dbliged to throw them si way. *

Thb coafls and neighbouring ports abound in vpry delicious fifh, fome of \yhich are carried to the city, 98 keeping better thaq the fpecies ,in the river; and thefe, together with feveral of the teftaceous kind, conftitute a cortfiderable part of the food of the inhabitants of Guayaquil. In thfc faUrcr^ek are taken-very large and finelobiiers, of which they make deliT cious ragouts: and from Jambeli creek, on the coaft of Tumbez, are brought great quantities. of oyfters, which, in every re(pe&, furpafs thofe of all the coafls frpm Panama to Peru, where there is alio a great demand for them*

The fame caufe which drives from that part of the river near the city the fined fifh, fome to the fait and. others to the frefb waters, according to their refpe&ive natures, renders good water very fcarce at Guayaquil, efpecially in fummer; none being to be had at a lefs difiance than four or five leagues up the river, according to the height of its waters. Many h&lzas are therefore employed in fetching water, and felling it to the inhabitants. During the winter, this trade, is partly at a (land, as, by the increafe of the rivers, thq water at Guayaquil is rendered fit for ufe.

M 2 Inst*a»

st^ *mr*iOR'm bo<wi*;

- I ptffSAi* $f fiifd* *4 at Garthagetia arid other ^(WfcW tkfey obmlfi&rrty dfc, in dreffiiig their fito* eft GtWyrf-qfciV bfeef; ftuit; - Bat whethe* the clitoAte* ^'m* p&ffiit Ilk beafts to acquire 4 ptcJpe* degree of &** M» Wheikeir the fvRJt itfelf bi tiot good1, or ^hMkM1 they drfe caretefc in^parating if from thdtaillotf r the fitell aad tafte «f both are buch the *w»e, whlc&' rtildbr tbiit diftie£ extrfertiely naufeous to fttengthte;* aftdy what is little botten they feafon all of thew ivifh{ Guriney pfepjier,whidb, though finaH, tsfo vfery ftr*t*g,< thit ttte frriell 6f it1, \fchefl whde, fuffiewfltly decj*wa ife ftWjfrMtag a&ivity; fo th?*perfons, not accUrftdtried1 tb f if$ fiiffer. either way. W tfeey fcdt, their months feem in a flame; if they forbear* they fflfcft ittdaw hirtigety till they fta*$ bvercome their averfion to this vfetfotririg; after which they thihk the Getiney pepper the fineit ingfediettt m the World forgiving a relifli w tKeir fobd. ,

Tfi£ inhabit Aitte of Guayaquil affe& great i^lehdour iti tfoeir foMti dktttriMdentS; but the method of theae* is not vety agreeable tt> an European gueft. The firfl courfe cenriifls of different kinds of fweetmeats, the fecond of high-tfeatbned ragouts; and thus tJiey* dontinue to fefve up an alternate fueceffion of fweet and highfeaibned difhes. The common drink on thefe occasions is grape brandy, there called Aqua; ardiente de CalHHa, cordials and wirie: of all which they drink freely during the entertainment, heightening the pleafure by the variety 5 but the Europeans generally prefer wine.

Ti!e cufiotti of drinking punch has lately increafed cbfiliderably in this city ;'and, when drunk iri moderation, is found to agree very well with the conftitutions 6f this climate. Accordingly it has obtained greatly ifriong jkrloris of diftin<5Hon, who generally drink a glafs. of it at eleven, and again in the evening; thus allaying their third, and at the fadne/time cbrrc&ing tficwater, wfiieh, belides the difagreeable tatfe communicated

Cfe.rMfc v SOUTH AMERICA, *55

jounic*te$ to it by heit, psornofc^ato exfceiftve pro-fpiratioo rand thismflom j& £j> prevailing, ihpt cvin ihe >lAdSeSf.puii<SbuaJrijr qb&rirdit; And the quantity both of acid and ipirit being bat finally, it becomes ^uallywbolefomeaod rdceibing.

~.------T------i----- 7!' .„..,:.. : : '-i.k-!.,.-) r: v . \

; iMxtenlfftbe, JurifixStion of Guayaquil.

npHE 'mo^'northern part of the jurifdicliop qf x Guayaquil begins (^t Cape pa^pidjfy to called from its lying ai'ifagtjh of. the cquinpftial, andphout Jialf 3,decree north of fjtje bay of Manta. F^m this c?pe,ii' continues a^l stlopg tjbie coaft, including ,1^'iflp r©f Pyhg, to the town of. ,MacbaIa an the ca^ft of Tumbex, where It i$ terminated by thejurildittion of Piura. From thence jt iqns away eastward, and is bounded by that of Guenca; and then, turning north-Wards along the weftera fkirts of the Andes, it ter-rainates on thofe of Bamba and Chimbo. Jts length from N. to .5. is about oo leagues, and its breach frqn* I£. to W. 40 or ^5^ reckoning from the ppiot of Sarita Elena to the,parts calted Ojibar, Its whole country, like that in the neighbourhood of the city, js ope continued plain, <u$ in winter miiverfally overflowed, it is divided ipto (c^cn lieutenancies or departments, for ea.ch of whiph the corregidor appoints 3, tieulpnant or deputy, w^o, Jiqwever, j^pflI'^cfpft-firmed by the audifjpqe pf #uito. Tfrw departments are, Puerto Viejp, Fupta die §fnt,a JSlena, Pun?, Yaguache, Babahoyo, Baba, ^ndj^ule. f . ,|

The lieutenancy de JSan Cfregoifto de Puqrto Viejo

' is bounded northward by tbe government cjf Ajt^caiDLe^,

and fouthward by the lieutenancy of S^iita J3|ena.

Its capital of the fame name, thaugh fipall, $in|y

peopled, and poor, enjoys the privileges x>( a city,

Mj ' * - . . amj

166 .//A< VOYAGE TCV Bfeofc IV'

and includes the towns of- Monte-Chrifloj Picoaia; iGharapitQ^iarid'Xip^apa. * Tbefe have their parti-diiar prieftsj tvho are likewife the fpiritqai direftorS *>fall the fnjallervillages in thfediftridh

The town of Montci Gbniftoiilood atfirft ih ^e bay of Manta, and was called by that name. It had fhen a cdhliderabTe commerce by means of vefiels paffing from Panama to/thejp^rt^ of Peru ; but, having been pillaged and aeflroyed by fome foreign adventurers; Wh^iilfcftedtlio^f fee,s,^ the.iriftY&ttehts removed it io the foot of Monte Cbrifio, .where it xpfH flandSj and from whence it-hak its nameiorT? \\ * J.

Some tobacco is p!antedJfa tttis jurifdi&iori'/'tiut is not much eftcemed; and tfye^re'ff of itsi ptadtf&'s, a? *tijW( cotton; ami pita, arc ba^ fi^ its inhabitants," though they'kre fir fronll beii^.fru-

.vr—, countries grow hcro:inpfbdigiotfs tAfci^tiWi* UA'} '>' ''M\t::< \ Form^rLy along the coitf^hd'in the'bay belonging to ibisi'lieutenancy, Hvag *a 'confiscable peafl f itfiitij$ ^uVWhm^p\dti) !y 'dtfcoWt^q^ for Tome ^ears;" icfSRoni^^krtl^f^otn the dangers ihfe\divers Vere c^poifctf t6, frGra'thWtoaritss iind tintdfeas already ^efcrtbpd^W^afriy fnfaPrtk poverty of the in-*MlMtam^:of,[fHi^ VoVihti^.^o; being in general In-"dWris ati*eM;^^HV'&i>mf t^purchafe :Neg roes for -?\Xi\b o^ci^^nT;^ Ttye^y iiks probably 'its name from;the:^^Y^m^e^ ofjtfartttfs in thofe parts, efpej-traTTy \i£> tn^commoh enf£]oytbent of the inhabitants «¥s the taking qCjthat 'fi(b?'^hich they fait, and earry into the iplahd provinces.;, The Europeans cannot IVeT^'adnvifirig Vheir dfcxt^rffy in this kind of filhery, which they carry ort' in the'following manner: they {htow into' the w^ter a log of wood, fuch as the^ ufe viri mating^ balza,fbeing'about1 five or lix yards in 'Tengthi and hear a fodtlintfi&rtietcr, and'fufficient to

, bear

C*yjW SOUTtrAMBKfCA. i&j

bar tht wirigBt afflgried it, which -is £ nellyhigiacrofiP 4o^ti»d|rfiSt^j^hileaii Indian (lands in a*> fcredtpo-* fition on the other; and* by help of a cbnfcletfc br bdr, £ot*oi£t© fea, to ihei ditfarjce of baff a league or mbr^wbere feoihoot* his;net. Andtht^Ifediaii, whd follows iiini *rv a fimilar log,TtakW hold df <the4 Wgi failehodit6«je(codofthenet; and-when thc^wholeW extended^ :tfaey both mtocfc^bw&rds th* A&h&9 v&etn their, partners wait4*pi draw the n«i hftitHie/1 «£ttfd here one* cauoo* help obfervirig Wit# ^britfhmtfttt the dtxteukvaod agihty of the lndi&n^iartifefet*iri-ing fan ecpinbrtutn ontoftntiftogs* wherejf by fh^ edf* timirfliagttittiotis .trfitl^fea,' ttoay> taaft be alwayi cbaiigmg their pdlitioir;«od rhakitigittflW*nl:rto*k^4 with their body;, and whrft» ftill lighten*' the. di# ficultyis, t&atheisobligf^atfhtffwtt fifrte,totmnd both his tout and the iwti/:*h dmwtof it awards tftfc land.:: They are iridced'bxcolkrnt faiiGm£r&; fo ftat if they happen (which i* very feldomy tolttp *off, they are foonKton;the log again J and in thtir fbfraer poP-Cue ;>^jty tfkft, they are in Ho danger of bring (hip*. wreoked.siV» f ' . * - >v; 1 *

», I smai«& place fBiMtadd Santa Elfena as'theJfectoi^ lieutenancy, becaufe it joins to the ^ (bath1 part of thfc former, s >tt extends all along the toeflef?) coaft firocb -the ifles of Plata and SalangO) tfr fheiktWfutata db Santa Electa ;ifrom thence it ftretcfefes afottg the nbrtfc coafly formed by the > bay xrf Guayacfott; ooraprct-bending,in this;extentIhe ♦owns bf Puttta,Cbongofl, Morr6f Dolpnc^e, artd^handuu At Ghongon and Morro twoprfcfts.refid^n^whbie pari(hes tk^j others belongs The Keutenant^ itolffefted with tb$ civil go-vernment^rBfides in the>town of Pontav two league from the port; where there are indeed warehouses, or rather fheds, for receiving (alt and other goods, bat no *awclliqg-httlitt£. > * j ^ v *

„. THsport of(Pttnta*asfo.many fitft-tfbrks, that it fopplid* tho whfole provihpn of Quito and jari&i&ioh

M 4 of

Digifized by

of GAqrtfgail* The (Mt < w tot fh* Jtoffty in* -got! markably cootyaA, andaoifwfcMircryfwelJithe|)k«i|^ \ntejMioo, tbatnbf faltit^fkflji,,:-.«: :c. ; » i :

.On the qpaft b^lpngingtOjthid lkutepMicyJUifotni^ thaJt ^Kqttifilotfmrple, fo highly oft&aatd »mong7the *&&«($;; but feht fi(b firkin ^ifah tt wafitekeri, invibg fce*n4th«r iu*km»vfr or forgotten, manyjuwckilmhdvc imagined tbfc ^ffcoitos to be*»im6hr ThisjdJloAtvhowr-' HHSfe i$ fcuftd in a ^ccie$iof;(hiil¥ii&j^Br|tigoti Ipetafl«afttod b^theJfea, They'aafe feaaetiVmgiarged thtlt « a life apd .are reptet© wtfei a j uioc, psofa^% tfao bfaod» which* wten -«a|irctf(cy(l9r-4a<'4ie .'iiitt^fMu^ifBi for if ,a threfcdaf ^^D^rta^ithiog^a'fimibtkittd^ be Aj* it^hiiJjtqtior, H boooprics df a moftwHdieo* kttr, ^hwhirfrpeatefl waftihgs bftt fp. fcrt from dbli* teratiqg,.that they rather itoprfrfo it; nor dto^si it tfask 1# wearing.; Tfoe jwifdtfjon of the port of ifiooys* »:the ptaymoe,of Gwrtcmela, aMb affbeds ihis.ifpci ftytfrOf tqthincs, the jptp^rfrf urtoch is^btiufed ito 4$?iog oetton thieadsj and* to ;fe*eral.'.-part*^ Jar «i* J^nds, feefcs, aud othern>rnam«nt«*r r Stufltf died witili this purple are alfo highly valued. This prfioicw $flfoe is «xlw<a»d..by di^e*»fc»cth«diJq Sons, take -Jbe &fl> opfcrof'faihellj agdjaytng it ah <the&octk of ithftir baA&p&efs it with a fcnlfe frto fthe tteadto the rteiJi j^i^jgg>iha*tpari^&^ djftwprjeflio^f^s forced, therjaite, and. tteosr ;aiua? -the reft k; l>Mhi6 mature A^ -proceed ItiVHhJey*«re ,prov*d«J>t.lwmftfvp$ with* 'ftftototit quantify; STThefc :tbey.drawotfc$ thread* throrigftjthe Jiqoot^twhictoitthe r.viwle f>tf>oa6# But the purfJteJtiage does not xnufie-.diately appear, the juioedking at finft of k m#y oo-Jour; it the^changes to jgseeru and/ laftly;.into:tfcis celebrated purple. Qthera^drfue a different.me&od <i& etftrajftiog the colons -forahey neither kill the fiih, nor take it entirely out of its fheH^bart fqacet* it Jo hard as toettpref* a jtuce**kh:«Hbi^ thread, and aftenwarda- icplaoe {he fib ©o the roek . :>. whence

c*.mt sooth Manser ^

whence it jfeaa tafcen. Some time* after; irimdtrg64t a ieocwad operMian,; but without yielding fo imietl juice its at Ihrft; and at Ah& third or fourth vtry JittleJ by .which means.the fifli is exbaruited &eyond r& conrery. : in i<?44> toeing » the lieutenancy of Santa Elena, I had Ihe fajtreta&ioa to fee this liquor ex* tnnHbed according tq the firft proofs, and feme threads died with jt» This purple is far from boirig fo com*-pumas ifomc acmhoss have i magi tied; for, though tfee fifti increases, yet<fo large a ^uaatiftis neceflary ta die aiewiodncca/of thread, that-littfe<of it is fefenl «^d indeed its gatat pipe ft partiy ovrt4^tdfe*l&*toty. Apatite* cintuxiftajvie worthy obfervationy laftd Which iDoreftfe&or dimmUhes tjbe value/ is the dtt&ietid* df jwetght.and cokaut jaf the cMton died wfch it; attbo*d* ang to the different hour* of the day. 1 eauld ttot^knl anyJatisfa&ory ateouut of thid tprdperty^t^Potitk de Santa Elena, where the inhabitants, being ]efe kj«« jnoo** haw mrf earariod their ip*dtflatlt>«B f<^*far aii to he acquainted : with ithis' PCOJHrkaWe! ^ngukrrty ; avheccaa sal Nicoya it is fa well known, that the dealers i& it, both buyers and feller^ are exaflfy acquainted miih Abe time* of its iacreafe or decreafe, fo that one «tf tthe-itrft preliminaries to a fco»tta<ft is, to fettle the iime robco it, fhall be weighed. From this alteration p£ the weight of the purple thread at Nicoya it iftajr be; inferred, tbar the fame happens at Puirta de Sarita JElcoa; the turbines at both places being exa6Hy qf rthc-fame ipecics, and without the feaft vifiWe difference in colour. Another very remarkable jiar-itictilar, relating to its tintft, and which I^haveheard irom perfana of undoubted veracity, is, that t&6 c6-;lour of a thread .of flax is very different from that of a ihread of cotton. It would therefore be ffropter to make repeated experiments, on threads of filk, ilax, *and wjoai. *

. Some, ^y faying that the fifli, fmm whence this dfc .to extea&ed> braids in a ihell, by wbieh either t&te

|ft^<Al^WCol^daooiiifph»Pmajr-lie4 umietftawJ;* it pjray iioti l^jn^oper to,remark,ntiiaT it<>iaf>4h© la& fpeci^i :#n(^ ^flfdinlgly the cotton- tingefl rwitfa ofrhis, jnjc^ is; vUalJj^l jjCdiacoBllb. This department' attb »bpup4^i^)fr^l%i«oitil» erf all tin^wax^andrfiibj fv jb^rt^B^i^Jfjibitiintetha^eTjerjrI profitable indtiws for jii^^yiiT^QPrdiia^y/rt^g> vsry>fca|^ai»? and though it $pe$,nQ!kAbota^instowo^ the ourtbeOof-inhibit^ 9$f s i faa* eHcpgds; «bat: $>f :the piecediagp governcncBtj gpdit^e b^rlKHUf^ijPunte.iii mucfy frequented b^ jrfx(t<jjs|.; t^jatj is* byifuefeaatoade between Panama and tbe |^*.}t)f>Peru^in<vdfijrrto pu^ch^diffirent Jcindi ^^i»Mifiei»*,^caJvfes^ fyds^fow^tfriy&QtfaeD kinds* ©f whtf& jfbftffe *& herQajgreakplaoty;m^ infe-tQn tljp ^^h^ate^ Gwya^uHij©£ttwb i hondred jU^.te^^S vilfct felt;ua-.tradejr»Hteh from ^hc cbespj^ joJf jthat (£OfniiH*lify tonne to a: very gjood ac* cour&j ^<H*i\ - ..;^jijFfir: .!. ,v. / i r <«'/; '. > ^ Vi THftP*** Jjeytenancji ftmthvtord is Punay an ifland jjiVrt^^ptt^biOf.Gqayaqaiiriverii ItissUends N.'EL' aqd,3, W* Jxtfweenfu and feyew leagues^ and is of a jqwdril^tfir^.^ur^^ 4^cor,3^g *9 #n taoeidnt tiai-^i&Kbift* ^habitants, jv$re>onoe between twelve and /qurtjaen tf*)#fapd; Wi,i at poefent, it h^as only 'one fi&$}\ tqyvD>:fUuatqd af,t>he head.of itsiharkour in the fWtf&^ft V*rt:% and tim few inhabitants icopfift chiefly

Sf Qi$s># pndifowrSpaniards^buit terjy few Indiana. s \> this liegtepiauoy bas^be^n .anneidedftiie town- xif Ivlachala, on.tbe^Co^A^Of.TUmb^zv together with that 9fr;Kw£ftPJal> Ate Unding; place of tbeariver ofthe fame game* called iaUb tthe Suya^qean.which isfc rQad, leading to the juf#ii<ftipos of Cuenca And Alauii. JBut neither of thcle.itoiyps js.in, a rfcoro flouriftiin^ condition than that on tbfi.ifland. Jajtbe latter refidfc ^both thejieytenantftndpneft, to whom the others arc YubjecSt, both in civil and eccleiiafiical affairs; Puna not only being the pfincijial*tofwn, ibut great ihips, py jeafop of, the depth: q( its hathou^ load there, , . * which

gitized b/G

I Ck.ym. SOUTIP AMERICA. 171

j wjfcch <&rmotbe\donc *at JBkfayaquft, on account erf

I the fand in its river; wbile others comb there tdibad

with wood. * r:.': ' ''* ' -7 y \ .';- : V \-\ '

i:i ^Tks jurifHw9(ion6 of Maehala and; Manararrjofr<pro«-

' duce great quantities of cacao, £nd thatttNterformcr

I *is efleeraed thebeft in all Guayaquil. In its neighbour-

io6d, as' in ttitt iflaud'of Puna, are great numbers* of

.mangfes^ or- Iraangrove-trgefc; rwhofe intprwwea

♦taancties and' ttftiek trrtnk* bover^all thofe plains 1

,(vl)ich; .lying'low^ am freqttently overflowed. As this

I tree H littfe known in EurtipeJ it tnuft not bc-.pAflftd

cfvfer. wkbdotalftMWtdefcriptien. *' r r ah

j The mtftigrote is fo far ^ifferdtrf foam Bther bee*,

4hat it teqitfiresut ibfl daily*'Overflowed i>y the fifi.

Accordingly, when the water is ebbed away frenvdac

ipots; where the mangroves tbrlve, they exhale! very

difagreeable effluvia from their muddy furface. .This

4tec nd fooner appears abdv>e the ground, that* it di«

ivpta'itfelf into*very kndtty and'didorted ixanehetf;

and from each knot germinate* a nWrttiiude of - others,

Zn&tedfuw la at to form, when grown up, atflimr

1 p^trable thicket. Nor is' it poll We to difcern.the

I ^Hoots bdojigirigto the priheipal brandies ; 'for* bd-

I fuA6&j (Ms. eatangled:labyrinth, thofe of the fifth or

-fixth prcidi^ton are equalin tttegnitudje to thofe of

tlhe iirft, Whicfr is generally <?f an inch and a bailor

fltono inches in diameter; and oiUfo flexible, that .the

| wily method bf fevering theni irby fome edged tobL

Thodgh they extend themfetves nearly horizontally,

vet the trunk and principal br^nfches increaie both in

height and thicknefs. Its leaves are very fftnafl, m

i proportion to the branches, not being above an inch

| '^nd a half or two inche§ in length, oval, thick? add

[ iOf a pale green. The uiual height of the principal

ileitis of the mangrove is eighteen or twenty yards,

'ten or twelve inches in diameter, apd covered With a

tbiq, rough ,barK. ?ut its wood is fo folid and heavy,

that it finks in water, and* when ufed in ihips or

' veflels,

if* A TOYAGE UQ JR** iV.

ffleflfck* it found rery dojfebk, bciflg not &fcje£ either 4<y<piiiorrat*. ; , . .

The Indians here pay their annual tribute io the .wood irf the mangroY**; Which is iiCbd oocafionalky in fiiob wfitks as its taatuxe is heft adapted to. -

Tkb lieatenanfcy «>f Yaguache is at. the mouth of ithe-ciuer of the time name, wjhieb. faJfa ioto thai of iGwayaquil on the footh fide; and hast its jife firom .-the *kjrts of ;the;Cordillera, fouth of thttriver Bamba. Its )urifdi<Si©Q contains tl^r^c towp&Mtbe principal, iifcat where the jeuftom-hofifc is ereAed^U -San Jachato de Yaguache; the tvw>, others ace tNonfii and Ad-Aooche. ' To thfefe bdorig two priefts, ojie reftdiri^ at Xagubcbc, land the other at INoufe. TJpoagb tbdfe town* are but thinly inhabited,, jtfae farrps a«d cotan-Iry h4ve great npinbcte, particularly jofitfee pooqar lb*. . .? . . . ' ...-.>;: '. ,

Tn^chief prodnSicmxrf Yagnache is wood, a»dia tittle oacao: hut cattle aad cotton artrrthe primSpal objdfls of iheir attention- *-

Basahoyo, a name ihfHoitntlyikiiowo in all thafe jcountrks, it being the (eat of the gfarid cniftom+fcouje -for eatery thing going into the CondtUeip, far comtftg from thence, has a yery large jtei0ij£Uofi, in which, befides the principal itown, are thofe of Ujtba, Gas*-,ool,r£tuilea, and Maagaches; the two lafi bonder on jiheiCordtUera, and:are a confiscable;diftanee from Uytiba, where the prieft refides during Jthe winter, re-tfnbvkig in the fummec to Babahoyo} which, beikks itsicttled inhabitants, has always a great number of traders frooa other parts.

* The mangrove (hoots out collateral branches, which benefdown, take root, and put out others which do the fame, fo that one tree in a $ew years covers a large fpace oi ground. Thofe items fhat are within ^t reach <of :hi^h«^aU)r mark are generally oovRted wjth a ipajl^upd pf pvfter? cabled mangrove oyftejp, which are eateu by the natives. The park of the tree is ufed to tan leather, in which it fuc- ceeds very we!l; but'gives the leather a much highet colour than oak Mitt* A*

DigitizetJ by

Tut coantry of -tin* j*ifflkltttW]f, being letfel *hd low, on tbe fofo fifrdifagsof the rivdrsCaluaii, Uj&Ar and Caracal;, <kl oterflovrekl * to * prodigious dift a Ag£* though a* different depths* particularly at Babahoyo* where the waters rife to the fitft ftory of the houtes ; ftrthrit during tbe winter it h entirely forfaken.

Slut couatry^of this jurifili&ton, as well astbat of Baba, contiguous to it, abounds in fuch numbers ot dacfao plantations, lhat aaarty dm ne^le&ed* aftd their firok left t6 tfoerotoilfeicB'afcd: other ammals, wbioh ai!# tfans happily 'prorided ft* by thef fpotttaheoos fertility ef <be grbafcd, without a*ty afflftanee fttHttiagrtedk tare. It aifc produces- cotton > rifce, Gnhfey pepper,, and fc great variety of fruits. It has likewMb large? droves of Wadk, dittle, horfes, tfrkUnltilea, \tfhich* ' duiwig tbe timet the cowfltry is under water* ante &<6pt in tbe oibnntains; but, as foon as tbe lands are dry, are driven doam'to fatten ort the gamalbtes, a plant of fdrfi luxuriances as to doVfer entirely the ground; its height exceeds ttvo yards and a half. It alto grows fo tbrek* as to preclude all pafFagereten along the paths Made by the traders;

The Wade of the gantalote refembles that'of barley, but longer, broader, thicker, and rougher. The gfeetf id deep, but lively^ and the ftalk diverfified with knots, #rom which the leaves* which are firong, and forne* thing above two lines in dialneter, have their origin. When the gamalote is at its full growth, the height of water, during the floods, by rifing above its top, preflfes it down, and TOts it; fo that, when the waters ebb away, the earth feems covered with it; but at the firft iinpreffion of the fun it fhoots again, and, in a fety days, abounds in the fattoe plenty as before. One thing remarkable in it is, that, though it proves fb rtoiirith-ing to the cattle of this diftfi&, it is very noxious to thofe from the Cordillera, as has been often exjte* rienced,

J&AS*

r Ba*& i$ on* 0( .H^fbtj^lift^fianeiteiof Guaja-<jjjH, Se^cfc^ to therfcitf*>of ihte^Ctoiditteirii cor ,tfec! iji£y»ata*os of Artga M^raa^elortgifcg; to ^he^nfSf^ieH; tion q£ Latacunga, or;; ap cprdu>£ to ^tt Indian pro*: i}uncjatjon»'Llatacunga<; Betides th& principal towtn/ of the feme-rwne, it? has of hers annexed tfnit* foifanas fp> l# *u*d*r one prieft, who, with the corrcgidar's lieutenant, .rtffides contimaally at Bafce. Formerly, the river of the fame name ran cbfe by this towp; but Don. En Vince^.baymg cufc a canal for watering ihe cacao, plantations do W& efiattj, tberber inclining more to this courfe than its former, it,tea*,foundiim-poffible to flop it; fo that, leading' its original channel, it has ever fince continued to run in a courfe fome diftance from the town. The other two places ate San Lorenzo ^nd Palenque, both at a great drftano£ from the capital, and dear the Cordillera; fo that their Indian inhabitants are but little civilized.

The cacao tree, which, as I hive already obferved, . aboqnds in this difiri#, inftead of being only four or five, according to fome authors, who poflibly faw.it when very young, is generally not lefs. than eighleett or twenty feet high. It begins from the grbuad to divide itfelf into four or five ftems, according to. th© vigour of the root, from whence they, all proceeds They are generally between four and fovea inches ia diameter; but their firft growth is in an oblkjuedi-xe&ion, fo that the branches are all expanded and fe* parated from one another. The length of the leaf is between fourand fix inches, aad its breadth three or four. It is very fraooth, foft, and terminates in a ppint, like that of the China orange tree, but with fome difference in colour, the former being of a dull grpen, and has nothing of the glofs ©bfcrvable on the latter :, nor is the tree fo full of leaves as tfctt of the orange. From the flem, as -well as the branches* grow the pods which contain the cacao. The firft appearance is a white blofibm, not very large, whofe

pill it

Cfc ViHJ SOUTH #MBKI(SA. \ 173

piftiL contain rthe ewbryo of &i pod,%vfeidb*|pfaws t» the length of fix or feven.- inched, and 'fourvor five if* breadth, refenibling a cucumber in ftfcpe; arid ilriated m a longitudinal ctire^io^, blit'decpier than ibe 1 citr* cumber, - The pods arc notprtcifety t>f the :above d** mentions, ^6r -are they always^ proportionate* tof the flem :or branchy 4o-which iliey adhere in the form of exorcfdences; feme being moch Fnaalter>|ahdiit*bl nob extraordinary4*to.fee ope of the lda&fixe on-thfc puSn*. cipal trunk, and one prodigk>ufly; large near thfceae-* hemity of a flender branch. But it is obfervted, that, when/two grow in conta&," one'of them attra&s ill the nutritive juice, arid thrives on the decay of tht other. *

4 The colour of the pod, while growing, is green, nearly refembling that of the leaf; but, wheorjarrived' at itefull.pcrfe&idnj it gradually changes to a yellow*. The fhell .which covers k is thin, fmooth, arid clear.' When the fruit is arrived at its full growth, it is gathered;, and .being cut into flices, its pulp-appear* white and juicy, with fmall feeds'regularly arranged, and at that time of no greater confidence than the reft of the pulp, but whiter, and contained by a very fine delicate membrane, full- of liquor, refembling milk, but tranfparent, and fomething vilcid ; at this time it may be eaten like any other fruit. Its tafte is a fweetifh acid; but in this country is thought to be promotive of fevers. The yeilownefs of the pod in-dicates that the cacao begins to feed on its fubttanqe, to acquire, a greater confiftence, and that the feeds begin to fill; the'colour gradually fading till they are fully coinpleted, when the dark brown colour of the. (hell, into which the yellow has deviated, indicates that it is a proper time to gather it; The thkknefe of the!<hdl is-now about two lines^ and each feed found inclofed in one of the compa^ments formed by the tranfverfe membranes of the pod. After ga:-tbering the fruit, it is opened, and the. feeds taken . ....(. out

XjS .'A YOYAGE TO ?. Bb6* IV5

standi laid oirfldns' kept for flat pltrpofe; or ifaorq generally on: vfjahua leaves, and left tttiUVe air tatfryk. When fdlly dried, they mtt pot into leather bagii? feivf to market, and;fold by the carga or load, which is equal to eighty-one pound*; bat the price is far from* fixed^ being fometimes fold for fix or rightnab^tfi darga, thorigh lefs than the.charge Of fathering; but the geftetal price is between thrde and four dollars, and, at the lime of the armadas, when the demand i» vety large, riles in proportion. , This tree produces its fruit twiee a year, and in the feme plenty and goodnefs. The quantity gathered* throughout the whole jurifdidHon of Guayaquil: amounts at leaft to 50,000 cargas.

The cacao trees delight foexceiflvdly in \frater, that the ground wlujre they are planted muft be reduced tcy a mire 5 and if not fcarefully fupplied with water, they die. They muft alfo be planted in the fhade, or at leaf): defended from the perpendicular rays of the fun. Accordingly, they are always placed near other larger trees, under the fhelter of which they grow and flou-lifh. No foil can be better adapted to the nature of thefe trees than that of Guayaquil, as it favours ftiem in both refpe£s; in the former, as confifting whoHy of favannahs or wide plains overflowed in winter, and in fummer plentifully watered by canals; and with regard to the latter, it abounds in other trees, which afford them the requifite flielter.

All the care neceflary in the culture of this tree confifls in clearing the ground from the weeds and ihrubs abounding in fo wet a foil: and this is fo necef-iary, that, if negle&ed, in a few years thefc vegetables* will deflroy the cacao plantations, by robbing the foil of all its nourifliment

: The laft lieutenancy to be defcribed, is that of Daule. The principal town is of the fame name^and wafhed by the river, to which it owes its appellation. It contains Jbany fpacious hoofer belonging tto the in*.

habitants

Ch. VIII. SOUTH AMERICA. 177

habitants of Guayaquil,. It is alfo the refidence of a lieutenaot and a parifti prieft, having %under their in-{pedtion the'two towns of Santa Lycia and Valfar. Here are 'a great number of plantations of tobacco and fugar-canes, cacae, ancl, cotton ; together with large orchards of frujjrtrees, and extenfive cornfields. ^ ' . . r .

Th$"rivet t)auTe, wtueh, like, that of Baba, dif-charges itfelf Into Guaya juil river, is very large, and on both a great trade is carried on with that city, j5y the former, it receives the great plenty and variety of fumraer fruits, ,and a confideraole part of the plantahes, which conflTtuteMhe bread ufed there du- , ting the whole year. "Though great quantities of to* bacco grow in other parts of the jurifdiftion of Guayaquil, yet none equals that of Daule.

The bulinefs of grazing is followed in all thefe lieutenancies ; but more or lefs, in proportion to their extent, the nature of the foil, and the conveniency of driving the cattle to the mountains, beyond the reach of the inundations*

» Xi 1 r n n i. 1 /.i. mini..........im <.....mm ^^mmimmm.......>——«n^^w

CHAR IX.

Defcription of the River of Guayaquil, and of the Vejfels trading on it. ,

THE river of Guayaquil being the channel of the commerce of that place, it will be proper to give fome account of it, in order to affift the reader in' forn/ing an idea of the trade carried on in that city.

The diftance of the navigable part of this river, from the city to the cuftom-houfe at Babahoyo, the place where the goods are landed, is, by thofe who have long frequented it, commonly divided into reaches, of which there are twenty, its courfe being

Vou f. N wholly

i)8c , A VbYAGETO BkWlV/

wholly Terpentine; but to Caracof, the landing-place? in winter, there are twenty-fodr reaches, the ldngefi: of which are thd three neareft the city; and thefe may be about two leagues arid a half in length, btitf the others not abovb one. Whence it may be in* ferrea, on an average, that tfot tNflarnce, meafuted on the fupface of the. rivet, between Guayaquil and thd cuftom-houfeof BabahoyO, te'tWenty-foar leagues an4 : a, h^lti and to Caracol twerifj^eight and a half. The? time requisite to perform this paflage is very different, according 1o the teafon, and nature of the yte#el. During the winter, a chata generally takes . up, eight days in going from Guayaquil to Caracol, being againft the current of the river; whereas two clays are fufficient to perform* the paflage downwards, Jq fummer a light canoe gOeS up in three tides, and returns in little more than twa; the fame may bo -iaid of other veffcls, the. pafiage dowriwards being aWays performed in much left time than the'other; on account of the natural current of the river, in th6 reaches near the cuftom-houfe, where the flrongeft flood only flops the-waterirom. running downwards.

The diftance from Guayaquil to Ifla Verde, fituated at tho mouth of the ri^er in Puna bay, is by pilots computed at about fix leagues, and divided, like the other part, into Teaches; $rid from Ifla Verdd fo Puna three leagues : fo that4 the whole diftance from yCaFacol, the moft inland part up the river,, to that of Puna, is thirfy-feven leagues and'a half. Between Ifla Verde andruria it widens fo pfodigioufly, that the horizon towards the north arid fouth is bounded by fhe Iky, except in fome few parts northwards, where the plantations of mangroves are perceived.

. The mouth of the river at the Ifla Verde is about

tz league in breadth, and even fotoethihg broader at

Guayaquil, above which it contracts itfelf as it ad-

. vahGes nearer the mountains, and forms othet creeks,

vtIiQ ioouth of orie of which; called Ef&nTde Santay,

""1 ' . faces

*

Gi. 1X5 SOtJlTH AMERICA. 179

fkdti the city; another, termed Lagattos, is War the <nift<?rti-houfc at Babahoyo. Thefe are the ltfrgeft, and at *he fattie time cktend to fiich a diftance from the jSrihctpal met, as to forte very confiderdble iflands. ' * Tfte tidesj, as we have before obferved, in fuifcmer-flteer rSach up fo the cuftom-houfe, checking the velocity of the! Waters, and confequently caufing them ^ (well> but, in winter, the current being {hunger' febd-.toiofe rdjiid, fbis increafe of the water is vifiblb "only in tihe reaches near Guayaquil; and in three or $bw different times of the year the g*at velocity of \h6 cuttehr renders the tides imperceptible : the firft of tfift feafori happens about Chriftmas.

,fftM*; principal caufe of the fwellings of this river tffrrftS frbrti the torrehfs milling doWn from the Cordif-l&tst %\rto ft. f<or 'thotigh rain is frequent here, great part ttf the water is received by its lakes, or ftagnatefc ©ft fhe pilainfc : fa (hat the increafe of the river is entirely owing to the torrehfe from the mountains.

One particular inconvenience of thefe floods is, their IhifWng the banks of fand lying between the city and tfla Vfcrrde; fo that no fhips of any confiderable burdett * can go up with fafety, without continually founding with the lead, unlefscare has been taken to mark the bank* fince th£ir laft change.

The borders of this river, Uke thoffe of Yaguache, Baba, and Daule, as well as thofe of the creeks and cartels, are decorated with country-feats, and cottages of poor people of all cafls, having here both the convenience of firtiing and agriculture ; and the interme-diatfe fpaces filled with fuch a variety of thickets, that art would find it difficult to imitale the delightful land-fcape here exhibited by nature.

Thk principal and moil: common materials ufed in *butldings on thefe rivers, arc caneS, whofe dtmenfions and other particulars (hall be taken notice of in their pkce. Thefe alio form the inward parts, as walls, floors, and rails of the flairs; the larger houfea differ

N 2 r-on*vT

LrOOQIC

iSo A VOYAGE. TO ,fij»ok IV.

only in fome of the principal pieces, which, :are of wood.. Their method of building is, to fix in earth, .eight, ten, or twelve pieces of wood, more or lefi^ according to the dinjetffions of the houfe, forked at J he top, and of a proper Jength, all the apartments .being on the fir ft ft pry, without any ground floor. . tBeams are then laid acrofs on thefe< forks, at the difianceof fqur oriivqyajids from the ground. Qfl thefe heams canesare laid in fuch a manner as to form .^a kind of rafters, and over thefe boards of the -fame canesaibot and a half in breadth, which form as firm and handfome a flooring as if of wood. Thf partitions of thefcveral apartments are of the fame ♦materials, but the outer walls are generally latticed, for t^e free adraifjion of the air. The principal beams of 4he roof of large houfes are of timber, the rafters ^f cane, with imaller, in a tranfverfe dire$ion, and over thefe vijahua leaves *. Thus a .houfe is built at very little expenfe, though containing all the necef-&ry conveniences. With regard to the poorer .fort, every one's own labour fuffices to ptocjwe him a ^habitation. He goes qp a creek in a fmall canoe, and from the firft woodcuts down as manycane?, vijahuas, and bejucos*^, as he wants, and, bringing the whole . to the fhore, he makes a balza or float, on which he loads his other.materials, and falls down the river to 4he place where he intends to erc£t his cottage. After which, he begins his work, fattening with bejucos vthofe parts which are ufuaily nailed; and, in a few days, finifhes it in the completed manner. , Some of theie cottages are almofl equal in dimeniions to thofe of timber.

The lower part, both of thefe houfes, as well as thole ia the greater part of the jurifdi&ion of Guayaquil (which are of the fame form), are expofed to

* This leaf is three or four feet long, and about one broad. £ + A long pliant twig, ufcd as a cord by the natives; defcribed B. V. Ch. I. - A.

** " V "_ all

<&IX.r SOUTH AMERICA. 181

all winds, being entirely open, without having any wall, or fence, except the-pofts or ftancheohs by which the building is fupported. For whatever coft was expended on the ground floor, it would be wholly ufelefs in the winter, when all the country is turned to mud. Such houfes, however, a$ (land beyond the reach of inundations, have ground floors, walled and . finiihed like thfc other apartments, and ferve as ware-' hpufes foi* goods; but thofe within the inundations arebuilt* as it were, in the air, the water having a free paffage under them. All the inhabitants have their canoes for paffing from one houfe to another, and are fo dexterous in the management of thefe fkiffs, that a little girl ventures alone in a boat fo fmall and .flight, that any one \eCs fkilful would overfet in ftep-ping into it, and without fear erodes rapid currents, which an expert failor, not accuflomed to them, would find very difficult.

The continual rains in winter, and the flightnefs of the materials with which thefe houfes are built, render itneceflary to repair them during thefummer; but thofe of the poorer fort, which are low, mnft be every year rebuilt, efpecially thofe parts which confift of cane, bejuco, and vijabua, while the principal ftancheons, which form the foundation, fiill'continue ferviceable, and able to receive the new materials.

From the houfes I proceed to give an account of the veflels, which (omitting the Chatas and 'canoes as common) are called Balzas, i. e. rafts. The name . Efficiently explains theirconftruction, *,ut not ihe mc-thod of managing them, which thefe I nutans, ftrangers to the arts and fciences, have learned from neceflity.

These Balzas, called by the Indians Jungadas*, arecompofed of five, feven, or nine beams of a fort of wood, which, though known here only by the name

* They are the fame that are called Catamorans in the Eaft Iu* <Ses. A.

N 3 of

\

iM >A VOYAGE tO Boo* JV,

of Palza, jh^ Indians of Darien called' Fuero; ^q$K in all appearance, is the ferula of the Latins, mentioned by Columella; Pliny takes notice of two fp&-cies of it, the leflfer by the Greeks called* Nartechia, &nd the larger Narthea, which grows to a gie^i height, Nebrija calls it in Spanilh Canna Beia, or *Canij& Heja. Don George Juan, who faw it growing k) Malta, found no other difference betwixt it and the Balza or Puero, only the Canna Beja, called.ferula by > the Maltefe, is much fmaller. The baUa is a whUUht foft wood, and fo very light, that a boy can eafU|f t carry a log of three or four yards in length, and $ foot in diameter* Yet, of this wood are fosmed tt»$ Janjades or Balzas, reprefented irt Plate IV. Over pa*$ of it is a flrong tilt, formed of reeds, Inflcad -of ft * maft, the fail is hoifted on two poles or ihepes «*f imangroye wood, and tboie which carry a forefail ljave two other poles ere&ed in the fame manner.

Balza s arenpt tfillyufed on rivers, but fmall voyages are made at fea in them, and fometjmes they g$ as far as Paita. Their dimeofions beipg different, they are alfo applied to different ufes; fpme of them being fifhing Balzas; fbme carry all kin<te of goods, from the cuiiom-houfe to Guayaquil, and from thence to Puna, the Salto de Tumbez, end Paita; japd others, of a more curious and elegant coj*ftru£llQO, ferve for removing families to thpir eftates and copn-try-boufes, having the fame convenience as on fhore> not being the leaft agitated oo the fiver; and thaf they have fuificient room for accoramodatiorts/ way be inferred from the length of the? beams, which .are twelve or thirteen toifes, and about two feet or more in diameter: fo that the nine beams of which -}hey confift, form a breadth of between twenty and twenty,* four l?aris feet; and proportional in thofe of fovea, op any other number of beams. >

These beams are fattened pv lafhed togejfcfrer %y bejucos, and fo fecurely, that vyith the cro||-piec€S at

each

saph enc^ wbich ar$ alfp Jaflied with all -^aoifibje I fiw*ngth>\tbey r«$ft the rapidity ofjhp currents uj

Ibffir voyages to the coaft of Tufgl^z an<d Paita, 7he Indjians are foikilful in fecuring #iem, that they pever Ippfcn, notwithftandujg thecpntinual agitation; though by their negledt in examining ihetcondition of the bpjAKos, whether they are not rotten or wprn, (9 9B to require others, there are fpme mqlancholy in* r , ftances of 3alza?t which, in had weather, have iepa-r rated, and, by .that means, the cargo loft, ?wd }h$ pflffengers drowned. With regard to the Indians, they ne^er fail of getting on one of the beams, whiqh is Sufficient for them to make their way to the next port One or two unfortunate accidents of this June} * happened even while we were in the jurifcli#ion of AwfrV purely froo» the fav^ge careleflhefs of th$

/Thb tbickefi beam of thofe which pompofc the J3#Jj&a, is placed fo as to projedt beypnd the other in its,after*parl * and to this are lathed the iirft beams on each <ide, and thns, fucceffively, 4ill the whole aip fe«-cured; that in the middle being the principal piece, I and thence the number of bc^tns is always odd. The

\ larger fort of Balzac generally carry between four a«d five hundred quintals, without being damaged by, the proximity of the water; for the waves of \bp fea never run over the Bajza ; neither does the water fplafli up between the beagis, the Balza always foU lttwing. the nation of the water. .

Hitherto we have only mentioned the conflrucT tion and the ufes they are applied to; but the greate# Hotgularity of this floating vehicle is, tbat^ it 1ail$, Jacks, and wor]ts as well in contrary winds, as Ihips jytth a keel, and ro^kes very little lee-way. This ac}r #a#tage jt 4erivos .from another method of {teeriqg Jhaji by a rudder; namely, by fome bpards, three or Sow yards in length, and half a yard in breadth, li»Ue4iGtwr3Sjtwhich^ere placed .vertically, bpth in the . ( .♦. W 4 fa*4

iH A VOYAGE TO % Book-IV1.

head and flern between the main beamsj and by thrufling fome of thefe deep in the water, and railing others, they bear away, luff up, tack, lie to, and perform all the other motions of a regular fliip: an invention hitherto unknown to the moft intelligent nations of Europe, and of which even the Indiana know only the mechaniftn, their uncultivated minds having never examined into the rationale of it. Had this method of fteering been foondr known in Borope, it would have alleviated the diftreft of many a?fotp~ wreck, by faving numbers off lives; as in 1736, *thc Genovefa, one of his majefty's frigates, being loft on the Viborai the (hip's company nSide artfft; but Ctitrir mitting themfelves to the waves, without ahy m£#ns of directing their eourie, they only'added fome me- ' lancholy minutes to the term of Aeir ex*fi*fc?e. Such affiedling infiances induced me to explain the reafon and foundation of this method of fleering, in order to render it of ufein fuch calamitous junctures; and, that I may perform it with the greater aecutefcgy 1 ihaH make ufe of a fhort memoir, drawn up by Eton George Juan.

The direction, fays he, in which a fhip rpoves before the wind, is perpendicular to the fait, as Meff. , Rfenau, in the Theorie de Manoeuvres^ chap, ii, art. 1. BernouilU, cap. i. art. 4. Pitot, fe&. ii. art. 13. have demonftrated. And re*a£Hon being contrary ami equal to the a&ion, the force with which the wdter oppofcs the motion of the yeflel, will be'applied in a perpendicular dire&ion to, the fail, and continued, frotn leeward to windward, impelling with more force a greater body than a fmalljer, in proportion to the fuperficies, and the fquares of the lines of the angle of incidence, iuppoflng their velocities equal. Whence it fallows, that a Guara being fhoyed down in the fore-part of the veflel, muft make her lpff up; *and by taking it. put, fhe will bear away or fall off* Likewife on 4 Guara's being fhoved down at the ftern, fli« wiU bear

away;

CI*. IX. SCJtJTH AMERldA.. . **5

away; and- by taking it out of the water, the Balza will luff, or keep nearer to the wind. Such is t£*4 paethod ufed by the Indians in fleering the Balzas; and fometimes they ufe five or fix Guaras, to prtforit the Balza from making lee-way; it being ^flSfent, that th« more they are under water, the g*iat3FVe-fiftance the fide of the veffel meets with; tm? Guaras performing the office of lee-boards, ufed in fmall veflels. The method of fleering by thefe Guaras is fo eafy and fimple, thati*hen once the Balza is put in her proper courfe, one onty is made ufe of, railing or lowering it as accidents require; afrd thus fh6 Balza is always kept in her intended direction.

We have before obferved, that this river and' its * creeks abound in fiCh, which for fome time in the ykix afford employment for the Indians and Mulattos Sft-babiting its banks, and for which ttfey prepaid to*-wards the end of fummer, having then fawn ai*d reaped the produce of their little farms. All thrir preparatives confift in examining their Balzas, giving them the neceffary impairs, and putting up a frefli tilt pf vrjahua leaves. This being finifhed', they take on bpai;d the neceffary quantity df fait, harpoons, and daVts. With regard to their provifion, it confift* only of maize, plantatied, and hung bfcef. Every1 thing being ready,1 they pbt dn board'*he B&lias their canoes, their families, and* the little fufnitUTdHhey are matters of. With regard to the cattle 'and hoifes, of wMtch every one has a fefw, they are driVdtt 'top'f*a winter in the mountains. '*

' ^Hp Irtdians now fteer awayttflhfe faobtti of fome creek, where they expe& to take a Hir£e quantity off fifli, and ftay there during the whole time of the fiflray, unUft they are difappoifated in their expectations j in which cafe they fleer away tfa1 anothcSr, tiH they have taken a fufficient quantity, when they return to thdr former habitations; Hkrt iiot without \ taking with them vijahua leaves, bejucos, and canes,

/

GoQgle

for makjpg the ;ieqfflpry repairs. Wfcrq tfce cqo>~ »yuic^tipq is opened Y^h the provinces pf the Cqi> diMerafi, a®4 the catjllp begin to return intp tbe plains, tfofy<#rry their fifti tP t£e cpflopj-Wjfe of fiahahpyo, whqvt they fell it;.aa4) whh ^ pr^Mqe* purchafe bajljc, twojo, 3qd pther ftaff^ for clothing thf^fj.* Jeiv£$, |d4 jfamalie^.

$;pift,R jm^hod of iiihi$g, & tfips; Having moof^ jtbcir(B?Jja »n«r the iqputh qf a creek, they takp tfa&f eaooes, with fome harpoons and fp?Mfe- ao4 °o $gkt of a fifli tnake towards it, till they afri^ a,t.,a p*ofggr Pittance, when they throw their fpe#ir #t it with fuffc dexterity, thai they feldom mifs; and if the p)a££ ^bounds in iiih, they load tfaip .<&%<&* *? <thrw or four hours, when they retutn'to tbfiir Balzas jto fcty: and cure them. Sometimes, d'peciajly in places wbffiP the creeks form a kind of lake, they ojake ufe #f £ certain herb called Barbafco, wtych \hpy qhevv, *nqc with fome bait, and fcatter abogt.w the \vat$r. Thp juice of this herb is fo ftrong, th^t the fifh pji eating a < ffpry little of it become inebriated, ,fo as tp float pp 4be fyrfopepf the^ater, whep the Ipdw* hjive fl$> irther. frauhW t^pq tp t^ke fljem up. T^is jpiqe is ^H^Iyfa^Uo tjiefaallfr fifr> and the lajrgfr do ftp* rt#Qver ,fof foroe tijne; and eyen theff, if tJ^^ey ,baj£p £3t€p # fpgjliderfble quantity, peri(h. : It is natural ^pl ftW"^i.i*h^.6A.capg|it in this majpfler piuft be pwpr $cial te fowWv* hijt e^porieflce^oye? the contra »nj-#cfi^r)dlingly the^oii tipiprous n^a^e no diiftaulty of eating them. Their next method of rfiihing {§ wit|i 4&\$; whefr tljey <fa$,m .ffcirfeivcs iptp^pn^njm, fqr jtfi© better jn#nag?ment pf Jhenj. .w Tap Urgeft fort of fifh c^ght,h<#f is called ^Bagf^ . Jfome of .whiff),fire a jaixl^flfi *4?alf Ippg; b^it fl^hjb Rpd.-fif an i|l. taitq, to jttyat rtb$y, are ioev^r cats* fr^fb. Xhe ^Lol^lp, a fpft pf ^rjce^pgt^is l\& ^4 ^lal^le; ,M bei^g opiy Jj|fee« ;ip,tbe -<?r$i}k$.n gr^

VjOOQIC

wy .above 4$myoqw]9 the difi;ance piU tw>t adroit tbfiir ^ij»gi>r^ugbt to that pity.

The inereftfe <rf £fh in this river is greatly bin* dered by tbe prodigious numbers of ahigiaton, an fipphibious creature, living both in the rivers and th« adjacent plains, though it is not often known to go far from the -bants of the river* Whqn tired mfa filhing> they leave the water, to baik thecnfelyss in the fan, and then 4ppear mojpe Uke logs of balf-ratteu* wood thrown a&orc hy tbe current* than Imug&m* 1iw»; but upon perceiving any veflel »$*r thaw* tbf*y immediately tferow theaafcives i#te the wstafr Some are of {o monftrous a fize as to e$Q$od 6v$ yards io length, Coring the time they lie bafcii^ oa the ih^re, they keep Their huge i#oM(tfes-i#ide open* till. filled with tnc&hitos, &m> >and othe* iafe^ when they fuddeoly (but their jaws and fallow-their prey. Whatever may ba«e -bee** written with rtfgani to tbs Sercepef* and rapacity of this animal, 1 aftd.aJUl our .ooropany know, (torn: experience, -they fcvpid * man, and, on the approach? of any #ne, &ir*ediitoly plunge into the water. Their whole body is covert mkh &aie* impenetrable to a pauflset-baH, unleii it Jiappens io « hit them in the belly ne^r the fowtega; the.onjy.partt^ulnfspable. ' ' . *

The alligttor is an oviparous creature. Therfc* jnafe make* a large bjoje in ttefand/neanth^b^ok Urf a riiwr, and there deposits her eggs; wbiohare a* White as tthofc of a:hen, but much nxnse &4id. ,Sbe generally lays about a huj&dred,, continuing in the &*ae place, fill they are all depotyed* which is aboMt a <day or. two? She then cefvers them with the &&& * j*nd, thebetter to conceal them, isdls herfelf nat ofrfy <wrar her,pfocious ctepoftfura, but to a confiderabJe diftance. After this precaution, fte fietttfro to the water, till natural inftintft informs ber thai it is tij&p po deUwr her young fam their, QonftaeKKnt; s*bisp tffae <s&tt£»&> (he £**, &U&wjad by Jthe Irak, and

tearing

188 <> VOYAGE tO Book IV.

tearing up the (and, begins breaking the eggs, but fo carefully, that fcarce a fingle dne is tryqred; and a whole fwarm of little alligators are ieen crawling about; The female then takes them on her necfr aridbaek, in order to remove them into the water; but the watchful gallindzos make ufe of this opportunity to deprive her of fome; and even the male alligator, which indeed conies for no other end, devours what he can, till the female has reached the water: mth the few remaining; for all thofe which either fall from her back, or do not fwim, *he beffdf eats; fo thdt of fuch a formidable brood, happily not more than four or five efcape.

The gallinazoe, mentioned in our account of Car* ifcagena, afe the mod inveterate enemies of the alligators, Or rather extremely fond of their eggs, in findings which they make ufe of uncomnton addrefs. Thefe birds often make it their whole bufinefs to watch the females during the dimmer* the feafon when they lay their eggs, the fands on the fides of the river not being then covered with water* The galli* Mzo pefcbes in fome tree, where it conceals itfelf among the branches, and tbere filenfly watches the female alligator, till (he has laid her* eggs ahd retires, pleafed that fhe has concealed them beyond dkcovery. But file is no foonef under the water, than the-galli-mvo darts down on the repofitory, and, v#ith its beaki daw*, and wings, tcars-up the fand, and devourrthe eggs, leaving only the fhells.1 This banquet would indeed richly reward its loag patience, did not a raul* titude of gallifcaaosy from all pat?ts, join the fortunate cfifcove?er, apd lhare in the fpoil. I have often been entertained with tliis-ftrafagem of thegallirtazos, in pafflng from Gifayaqnillo the cufi^m-houfe of Baba-hoyo; and my curiofity ouce led me> to take feme of the eggs, which thof«* who frequent this rive*-, particularly the Mulattos, make nxvdifficulty of eating, wbep frefli. Here we muft rework the methads ufed

by

Ca. IX. SOUTH AMERICA.' 189

by Providence in diminifhing the number *»f thefe deftriKftive creatures, not only by the gallinazofi*, but even by the mates tbemfebvca, , Indeed, neither the river nor the neighbouring fields would otherwife be fufficient to contain them ; for, notwhhftanding the ravages of thefe two infuliable enemies, their numbers can bardly be imagined.

. These alligators are the-great deftroyers of the firtt in this rive*, it being their mofr fafe and general food; tjor are they.wanting inaddrefs to fatisfy their defines j eight or, tea* as, it were by compa&, draw up at the mouth of & river or creek, whilft others go a/conftder* able dUlance up the river, and chafe the firti downwards, by which none of any bignefe efcape them. ,The alligators, being unable to eat under water, on feixinga fifti, raife their beads above the furfaee, and by degrees draw the fiih (com their jaws, and chew k foe deglutition. After fatisfying their appetite, they retire to reft on the banks of the river.

Whbn they ca&not find fifh to appeafe their hunger, they betake theoifelves to the meadows bordering- op the banks, and devour calves and colts; and, 10 order to be more fecure, take the opportunity of the Bight, that they may ftirprife them in their fleep; and it is obferved, that thole alligators which have once tafted flefh, become fu fond of it, as never to take up with firti but in cafes of neeeflity. There are even too many melancholy infiances of their devouring the human fpqejes, efpecially children, who, from the in** attention natural to their age, have been without doort after it is dark; and though at no great difiance, ttiefe voracious animals have dared to attack them* and having ojice feised them, to*makefure of their prey againft that affifiance which the crks of tbe victim never fail to bring, haften into the water, where they immediately drown it, and then return to th$ furface, and devour it at leifore*.

Their

i96 A VOYAGE tO SdoKlV.

'fliEiR voticity hafc alfo been felt by the boatmen* Whom, by inconiiderately flieping with one of their arms or legs banging over the llde of ibe boat, thefe atiifnrfs have fetzed, and drawn the whole body \fft& the watch Alligators who have cftace feafted on hu-toan fldfh, atfe known to be the ntoft dangerous, and become, as it were, inflamed with artinfatiable defire of repeating the fame delicious repaft. The inhabitant df thofe places whete they abound, are very in-doftrious in catcihing and deftroyirtg them* Their ufudl method is, by a cafonate, or jfitte of hard wood Sharpened at both ends, and baited wirh>t?hd lungs of fome animal. This cafcnate thfcy fatten to a thong* the <*nd of which isfecured on the flldre.. The alligator^ on feeing the lungs floating on thfc watet^ Maps at the bait, and thus both points of the wood enter his jaws, in fuch a manner tha* he eati neither ihut nor open his mouth. He is then dragged afltete* where he violently endeavours to refcile himfelfj white the Indians bait him like a bull, knowing that the greateft damage he can do, is to throw down fuch atf* for want of care or agility, do not keep out of hi* reach.

The form of this animal fo nearly fefembles thdt of the lagarto or lizard, that here they are commonly called by that name; but there is fome difference ill the fhape of the head, which in this creature is long, and towards the extremity, flender, gradually forming a fnout like that of a bog, and, when in the rivef* is generally above the furface of the water; a fbf* ficient deroonftrafion, that the refpiration of a groffer air is neceffary to it. The mandibles of this creature have each a row ofr very ftgong and pointed teeth, to tvhich fome writers have attributed particular virtues; but all I can fay to this is, that they are fuch as I and my companions, notwithftanding all our inquiries to attain a complete knowledge of every particular, could never hear any fatisfa&ory account of.

CHAP,

*

fcft.\& SOtSfti AME&fcA. W

CHAP. X.

Of the Commerce carried on by means of the City and River of Guayaquil, betwixt the Provinces \tof Peru and Terra Fitwa* and the Coq/t of ' New Spain. *

nPfiE commerce of Guayaquil may be divided into two parte; one reciprocal, being that of the pro-duds and manufactures of its jurifdi<^ion; the other tfanfitory, it£ port being the place where the goods ffota the jJrovinces of Peru, Terra Fftma, and Guatemala, cohfigned to the taotmtairts, are landed; and on the other hand, thofe from the mountains, de-figtied fot tta a bov£-mentioned provinces; are brought hither and (hipped for their refpe&ive ports. And as thefe two branches are very different, I (hall firft treat particularly ot its reciprocal commerce:

^Tirt eacoa, one'of its principal products, is chiefly exported fa Panama, the portis of Sonforiate5 el Rea* lejo, and other ports Of New Spain ; and alfota thofe of £eru, though'the quantity fent to the lattet is but fmall. It is fometfriog Angular, that in this city and jdrifdi&ion, where cacoa grows in fuch plenty, little Or fu> life fhould be made of it.

Timber, which may be efteemed the fecond article of its commerce, is chiefly fent to Callao; though a little is fold to the places between Guayaquil and that port. A11 the expenfe of it here is the charge of felling, carry tog it to the nefct creek or river, and floating it down to Guayaquil; where, or at Puna^ it is fhipped for the ports it is t.oniigned to.

Though both thefe branches of trade are very advantageous to Guayaquil, as may eafijy be imagined, frort the prodigious quantities exported; yet the trade of felt is riot inferior to either* though the principal 'warkeft tti which this is fent ateonly the inland towns

r5a A yOYAGE TO Book IV.-,

in the province of Quito. To thefe may be added cotton, rice, and fifh, both falted and dried; the two firft of which deferve to be mentioned, as they are exported both to the maritime and inland provinces.

The fourth and laft article of the commerce of this jurifdi&ion, is the trade in horned cattle, mdtes, and colts, of which great numbers are bred in the ex-tenfivc favannahs of this province. Thefe turn to good account in the provinces of the mountains* where there is not a fufficiency to anfwer the necef-fary demands,

Brsides theft four capital articles, there are others* though fingly of litile confequence, yet jointly are Vqual to any one of the former, as tobacco, wax, Guincy pepper, drugs, and lana de ceibo, by whiph great* numbers of the lower clafs of people acquire a comfortable iubfiftence.

The lap* de ceibo, or ceibo wpoT, is the produ<Sl of a very high aijtf tufted tree of that name. The trunk is itraight, and covered with a fmooth bark; the leaf roijnd, and of a middling fize. At the proper ieafon the tree makes a very beautiful appearance, being covered with white bloftbms ; and in each of thefe is formed a pod, which increafes to about an inch and a half or two inches in length, and one in fhicknefs. In this pod the lana or wool is contained. Mrhen thoroughly ripe and dry, the pod opens, and J he filamentous matter or wool gradually fpreafte itielf into a tuft refembling cotton, but of a reddifa c?(k .Tfris wool is much more foft and delicate to the touch than cotton itfelf, and the filaments fo very tender and fine, that the natives here think it .cannot be fpun ; but I am pe^fuaded that this is entirely jowing to their ignorance: and if a method be ever difcovered of fpinning it, its finenefs will entitle it rather to be called ceibo filk than wool. The only ufe they have .hitherto applied jt to, is to fill matrafies; and in this particular, it muft be allowed to have no

equal,

qn.X* - SOUTH AMERICA. 193

equal, both with regard to its natural softness, and its rising so, when laid in the sun, as even to stretch the covering of the mattress $ nor docs it sinkon being brought into the shade, unless accompanied with .dampness, which immediately compresses it. This wool is here thought to be of an extreme cold quality, which is abundantly sufficient to hinder it from1>eing .generally used; though great numbers of persons ox rank, and tenderly brought up, -have never slept on any thing else, but without any injury to their healtb-

The goods imported into this jurisdiction from Peru, in return for the above-mentioned commodities, are wine, brandy, oil, and dried fruits* From Quito it receives bays, tucuyos, flour, papas, bacon, hams, cheese, and other goods of that kind. From Panama, European goods purchased at the fairs* The chief commodities it receives from Nevv. Spain are iron, found in that country, but much inferior to that of Europe, being brittle and vitreous. It, however, serves for such uses w,here malleability is of no great importance, but is rarely used in building ships; also naphtha, and tar for the use of shipping. From the same coast, as well as from Peru, they have also cordage ; though the last article, together with European iron, the owners of ships import on their own account; and therefore make no part of the commerce.

The transitory commerce is in quantity much more considerable than that of the preceding, as it consists of the reciprocal exchange between the large king*-doms of Quito and Lima, of their respective commodities both natural and factitious* Lima sends the products of its vineyards and oliveyards; and -Quito furnishes cloth, bays, tucuyos, serges, hats* stockings, and other woollen goods; but indigo be-idg necessary ibr increasing the bqauty of the colours, and none of it growing in the province of Quito, the

V<Jt. I. " O merchants

i94 A VOYAGE TO Book r\f.

merchants of Guayaquil import it from New Spain, and serid it to the Quito manufacturers.

Summer is the propfer season for carrying on thesfe ^branches of commerce ; because then the manufactures of the mountains can be broughtdown to Guayaquil, and the goods sent from other parts carried up to the mountainous parts. But the river of Guayai-quil is. never without vessels loading with goods of that jurisdiction, the sea here being always open. The profits resulting from this lai»ge ind constant commerce could alone have preserved it from a total desertion, after being so frequently pillaged by pirate*, and wasted by fire. And it is owing td the advantages resulting from this commerce, that We now behold it large, flourishing, and magnificent, ai if it had enjoyed an uninterrupted prosperity from its very foundation.

BOOK

C*.h ' SCK7TH AMERICA. i$$

BOOK V.

Journeyfrpm Guayaquil to il\t Qify <tf Quito.

CHAP. I.

Passage from Guayaquil to the Town of Caracol, and from thence to Quito.

ON receiving advfce tb&t the mules,,provided by the corregidorof Guatenda, were on the road ,to Qaracol, we immediately embarked at jSuftyaquil, 911 the 3d of May 1736, on board a large chjita: but the usviial impediment of the current, atnd several unfortunate accidents, rendered the passage so very long, that we did not land at Caracol before the 1 ith. The tortures we received on the river from the moschitos were beyond imagination. 'We had prpvided ourselves with guetres, and moschito cloths; but to vfery little purpose. The whole day we were jn continual motion to keep them off; but at ni£ht our torments were excessive. Our gloves were indeed some defence to our h$nds, but our faces were entirely-exposed, nor were* our clothes a sufficient defence for the rest of qur bodies * for their stings, penetrating through the cloth, caused a very painful and fiery itching. The most'dismal night we spent in this passage was when we came to an anchor near.a large and handsome house, but uninhabited ; for we had no sooner seated ourselves in

O 2 it,

,

196 A VOYAGE TO- Book V#

it, than we were attacked on all sides with innumerap ble swarms of moschitos j so that we were so far from having any rest there, that it was impossible for a person, Susceptible of feeling, to be one moment quiet. Those who had covered themselves with their mos-chito cloths, after takinglhe greatest care that none of these malignant inspcts were contained in them, found themselves in a moment so attacked on aH sides, that they were obliged soon to return to the place they had quitted. Those who were in the house, hoping that they should find some relieT in the open fields, ventured out, though in danger ofsufFering in a more terrible manner from the serpents j but were soon convinced of theirmistake; it been impossible to determine which was the most supportable place, within the moschito cloth, without it, or in the open fields. In short, no expedicpt was of any use against their numbers. The sjnoke of the trees we burnt, to disperse these infernal insects, besides almost choking us, seemed rather to augment than diminish th^ir nuiltitucjps. At day-break, we*could not without concern look upon each other. Our faces were swelled, and our hands covered with painful tumours* which sufficiently indicated the condition of the other parts of our bodies exposed to thp attacks of those insects. The following night we took up our quarters in a bouse inhabited, but not Tree from moschitos j though in ninch Jess numbers th$m before. On informing our host of the deplorable manner in which we had spent the preceding night, he gravely told us that the hopse we 30 greatly conjplaincd of had beeu forsaken on account of its being the pur. gato'ry of a soul. To which one of our company wit* tily answered, that it was*nuch OJflre natural to.think that it was forsaken on account of its being a purgatory for the body.

The mules being arrived at Caracol, we.set out on the* 14th of May, and after travelling four leagues,

through

Ch. I. SOUTH AMERICA. 197

through savannah?, woods of plantain, and cacao-trees, we arrived at the river Ojibar; and continued Our journey, during the whole day, along its banks, fording it no less than nine times, though with n& small danger, from its rapidity, breadth, depth, and rocky bottom; and, abou£ three or four in the afternoon, we halted at a placed called Puerto de Mus-xhitos.

All the road from Caracol to the Ojibar is so deep and boggy that the beasts at every step sunk almost up to their bellies ; but along the banks of that river we found it much more firm and commodious. The Dame of the place where we were to take up oui; lodging that night sufficiently indicates its nature. The house had been for some time forsaken, like that already mentioned on Guayaquil river, and become a nest of moschitos of all kinds 5 so th&t it was impossible to determine which was the worst. Some, to avoid the torture of these insects, stripped themselves, and went into the river, keeping only their heads above water ; but the face, being the. only part exposed, was immediately covered with them ; so that those who had recourse to this expedient, were soon forced to deliver up their whole bodies to these tormenting creatures.

On the 15th we continued our journey through a very thick forest, the end pf which brought us once * more to the banks of the same river, which we again forded four times, and rather with more danger than at first. About five, we halted on its banks, at a place called «Caluma, or the Indian post. Here was no house for lodging in, nor had we seen one during the whole day's journey; but this inconvenience was in some measure removed by the surprising dexterity bf our Indians, who, running into the woods, soon returned with branches of trees and vijahua leaves, with which, in less than an hour, they erected several huts V*rge enough to contain our whole company; and so

O 3 well

,198 A VOYAGE TO . Bdo* V.

well covered, that the rain, which came on vfery violently, did not penetrate them *.

The thermometer at Caluma, on the x6th, at six in the morning, Was at 1016; and wfe werfe ourselves sen*-sible that the air began to gr6w cool. At half ah hour after eight in the morning we began oAr j&ur-jiey, and at noon passed by a place called Mamarmm, or mother of stone, where there is an inconceivably beautiful cascade* The rode from Svhich the water precipitates itself is nearly perpendicular, and fifty toises in hfeigbt, and on both sides bordfer^d with lofty and spreading trees. The clearness of the Water dazzles the sight, which is, however, charmed wkh its lustre as it falls from the precipice; after which it continues its course in a bed along a sthall descent, and is crossed hy the road. These cattaraots are by the Indians called Paccba, and by the Spaniards of the country Chorrera. Froifc henCe we continued our journey ; and after crossing the river ttirice on bridges, but with equal danger as in fording it, we arrived at two in the evening at a place caHed Tari*-gagua, wberfe we rested in a large structure of timber, covered with vijahua leaves, built for our rfeception. Indeed we were noless fatigued with this day's j6urney than with any of the preceding; some parts of it being over dreadful precipices, and the road in others so narrow, as hardly to afford a passage for the mules, that it was impossible to avoid frequently striking against the trees and rocks; few of us therefore reached Tarigagua without several bruises.

It must not be thought strange that I should say the bridges are equally dangerous with the fords ; for these structures, all of wood, and very long, shake in passing them; besides, their breadth is not above three

* The natives, whefn they travel, erect new huts every night in this manner, except they have the conveniency of tying their hammocks up in trees, by whkh means they save the trouble of a watch and fire all night to keep off the wild beasts. A.

feet,

Ch. I. SOUTH AMERICA. *99

feet, and without apy rail; so that one false step pre-cipitates the mule into the torrent, where it is inevitably lost; accidents, according to the report of our guides, not uncommon. These bridges, by the rotT ting of the wood under water, are annually repaired towards winter, the only season when they are used j the rivers during the summer being fofdable.

When a person of distinction, as a president, a bishop, &c» is on a journey from Caracol or Baba~ hoyo, the corrcgidor of Guaranda dispatches Indians for building cottages at the usual resting-places, like that we found at Tarigagua; and these being left standing, serve afterwards for other passengers, till the ' rains destroy them. When these are thrown down, travellers must content themselves with the huts which th$ir Indian guides build with wonderful di&» patch.

At Tarigagua, on the 17th, at six in the morning, the thermometer stood at 1014-4.. And having been for some time accustomed to hot climates, we now sensibly felt the cold. It is remarkable, that we here often see instances of the effects of two opposite tern* peratures, in two persons happening to meet, one of them coming from Guayaquil, and the other from the mountains: the latter finding the heat so great that he is scarce able to bear any clothes, while the former wraps himself up in all the garments he can procure. The one is so delighted with the warmth of the water of the river, that he bathes in it; the other thinks it so, cold, that he avoids being spattered by it. Nor is the case very different even in the same person, who, after a journey to the mountains, is returning to Guayaquil, or vice versa, provided the journey and return be made at the same season of the year. This sensible difference proceeds only from the change naturally felt at leaving a climate to which one has been ac^ customed,,and coming into another of an opposite temperature; and thus two persons, one used to a

0 4 cold

aco A VOYAGE TO Book, V.

cold climate, like that of the mountains, the other to a hot, like that of Guayaquil, must, at coming into ap intermediate temperature, as at* Tarigagua, feel an equal difference; one with regard to heat, and the other with regard to cold ; which demonstrates that famous opinion—that the senses aresubject to as many apparent alterations, as the sensations are various in tht)sc who feel them. For the impressions of objects are different, according to the different disposition of the senses; and the organs of two persons differently disposed are differently affected. At a quarter past nine in the morning we began to ascepd the moun* tain of San Antonia, the foot of which is at Tarigagua 5 and, at one, came to a place qallqd by the Indians. Guamac, or Cross of Canes. Here is a small but inclining plain ; and being told that it was ljalf way up the acclivity, and our beasts requiring rest, we halted here.

Thr ruggedness of the road from Tarigagua lead* kig up this mountain is not easily described. It gave us more trouble and fatigue, besides the dangers we were every moment exposed to, than all we had experienced in our former journeys. In some parts the declivity is so great that the mules can scarce kee;p their footing, and in others the acclivity is equally difficult. In many places the road is so narrow that the mules have-scarce room to set their feet; and jn others a continued series of precipices. Besides, , these roads, or rather paths, are full of holes, or ca-melones, near three quarters of a y&rd deep, in which the mules put their fore and hind feet j so that sonus times they draw their bellies and riders* legs along the ground. Indeed these holes serve as steps, without which the precipices would be in a great measure impracticable. But should the creature happen to put his foot between two of these holes, or not place it right, the rider falls, and, if on the side of the precipice, inevitably perishes. It ipay perhaps be

Ch.L SOUTH AMERICA. tof

eaid, that it would be much safer to perform this part of the journey on foot: but bow can any person be aure always of placing his feet directly on the eminences between the holes? and the least false step throws him up to the waist in a >slimy mud, with which all the holes are full; and then he will find it very difficult either to proceed or return back.

These boles,or camelones, as they are called, render all this road very toilsome and dangerous, being as it were so many obstacles to the poor mules; though the danger is even greater in those parts where they are wanting. For as the tracks are extremely steep and slippery, from the soil, which is chalky and con* tinuaHy wet; so they would be quite impracticable, did not the Indians go before, and dig little trenches across the road, with small spades which they cany with them for this purpose; and thus both the difficulty and danger of these craggy paths are greatly lessened. This work is continual, every drove requiring a repetition of it; for in less than a night the rain utterly destroys all the trenches cut by several hands the preceding day. The trouble of having peo-pie going before to mend the road; the pains arising, from the many falls and bruises; and the disagree* ablene&s of seeing one's self entirely covered with dirt, and wet to the skin, might be the more cheerfully supported, were they not augmented by the sight of such frightful precipices, and deep abysses, as must fill the traveller's mind with terror. For, without the least exaggeration, it may be said, that in travelling this road, the most resolute tremble*

The manner of descending from these heights is not less difficult and dangerous. Iu order to understand this, it is necessary to observe, that in those parts of the mountains, the excessive steepness will not admit of the.camelones being lasting; for the waters, by continually softening the earth, wash them away. On pne side are steep eminences, and on the other frightful

*o* A VOYAGE-TO BookV;

ful abysses ; and as they generally follow the dime* tion of the mountain, the road, instead of lying in a level, forms two or three steep eminences and de* clivitics,in the distance of two or three hundred yards; and these are the parts where no camelones can be. lasting. The mules themselves ^re sensible of the caution requisite in these descents; for, coming to the top of an eminence, they stop, and having placed their fere feet close together, as in a posture of stopping themselves, they also put their hinder fed together* but a little forwards, as if going to lie down* la this attitude, having as it were taken a survey of the road, tbey slide down with the swiftness <rf a meteor. AH the rider has to do is to keep, himself fest in the saddle without checking his beast; for the least motion is sufficient to disorder the equilibrium of the mule, in which case tbey both unavoidably perish. The address of these creatures is here truly wonderful j for, in this rapid motion, when they seem to lave lost all government of themselves, they follow exactly the different windings of the road, as if they had, before accurately reconnoitred, and previously settled in their minds, the route they were to follow, and taken every precaution for their safety, amidst so many irregular rities. There would indeed otherwise be no possi* bility of travelling over such places, where the safety .of the rider depends on the experience and address of his beast.

But the longest practice of travelling tbese roads cannot entirely free them from a kind of dread or horror which appears when they arrive at the top of a steep declivity. For they stop without being checked by the rider ; and if he inadvertently endeavours to spur tbem on, they continue immoveable; nor will they stir from the place till they hawc put themselves in the above-mentioned posture. Now it is that tbey seem to be actuated by reason ; for they not only at* tcntfvely view 4he road, but tj?embk #nd snort at ibe

danger,

Ch.T. S6UTH AMERICA. *os

danger, which, if the rider be not accustomed to these emotions, cannot fail of filling him with'terrible ideas. The Indians go before, and place themselves along 'the sides of the moutain, holding by the roots of trees, to Animate the beasts with shouts, till they at once Start down the declivity.

There are indeed some places where these declt-J vities are not on the sides of precipices ; but the road is so narrow and hollow, and the sides nearly perpendicular, that the danger is almost equafto the former; for the track being extremely narrow, and the .road scarce wide enough to admit the mule with its rider, if the former falls, the latter must be necessarily crushed; and for want of room to disengage himself, generally has a leg or an krm broken, if he escapes with life. It is rfeally wonderful to consider these mules, after having overcome the first emotions of theft fear, and are going to slide down the declivity, with what exactness they stretch out their fore-legs, that by preserving the equilibrium they may not fall on one side; yet at a proper distance make, with their body, that gentle inclination necessary to follow the several windings of the road ; and, lastly, their address in stopping themselves at theend of their impetuous career. Certainly the human species themselves could not show more prudence and conduct. Some mules, after being long used to these journeys, acquire a kind of reputation for their skill and safety, and accordingly are highly valued.

The worst seasons for these journeys, though difficult and dangerous at all times, are the beginnings of summer and winter; the rain then causing such dreadful torrents, that in some places the roads are covered with water; and in others so damaged, that there is no possibility of passing, but by sending Indians before to mend them ; though after all their labour, which must be done in haste, and when those

people

ae4 A VOYAGE TO BookV.

people think them both safe and easy, they are such as an European stranger would willingly avoid. -

BksiDES, the natural difficulty of all the roaife among the mountains is increased by the neglect of them, which is greater than could easily be concaved. If a tree, for instance, happens to fall down acrosfe the road, and stop up the passage,no person will be at the pains to remove it; and though all passing that way are put to no small difficulty \>y such an obstacle, it is suffered to continue; neither the government, nor those who frequent the road, taking any care to have it drawn away. Some of these trees are indeed so large, that their diameter is not less than a yard andx half, and consequently fill up the vtfhole passage j in which case, the Indians hew away part of the trunk, end assist the mules to leap over what remains ; but, in order to this, they must be unloaded ; and, after prodigious labour,they at last surmount the difficulty; though not without great loss of time, and damage to the goods: when, pleased with having got over the obstacle themselves, they leave the tree in the condition they found it; so that those who follow are obliged to undergo the same fatigue and trouble. Thus the road, to the great detriment of trade, re; mains encumbered till time has destroyed the tree. Hot is it only the roads over San Antonio, and other roountainsi>et\vccn Guayaquil and theCordillera, that #re thus neglected ; the case is general all over this country, especially where they lead over mountains^ and through the forests.

On the i 8th, at sixin the morning, the thermometer at Cruz deCahos was at ioio, and after travelling Mong a road no better than the day before, we arrived at a place, ar the end of the acclivity of the mountain, by the Indians called Pucara, which signifies a gate or narrow pass of a mountain; it also signifies a iortified place, and possibly derived its name from its flarr^wness and the natuial strength of its situation.

Ctt. I. SOUTH AMERICA- **5

We now began to descend with more ease towards the province of Chimbo, though the road was not much better than the former. Here we were met by the corregidorofGuaraflda or Chimbo, attended by the provincial alcalde, and the most eminent persons of the town. After complimenting us in the most cordial manner on our arrival, we proceeded together, and within a league of the town were met by the priest, a Dominican, accompanied by several of his order, and a great number of the inhabitants, who also left the town on the same friendly occasion; and, to heighten the ceremony, had brought with them a troop of cholo6, or Indian boys.

These cholos were dressed in blue, girded round their waists with sashes, on their heads a kind of turban, and in their hands they carried flags. This little Corps was divided into two or three companies, and wept before us dancing, and singing some words ia their language, which, as we were told, expressed the pleasure they received from the sight of such persons arrived safe in their country. In this manner our cavalcade entered the town, on which all the bells in the place were rung, and every house resounded with the noise of trumpets, tabors, and pipes.

On expressing to the corregidor our surprise at this reception, as a compliment far above our rank, he informed us, that it was not at all singular, it being no more than what was commonly practised when persons of any appearance enter the town; and that there was no small emulation between the several towns, in . paying these congratulations.

After we had passed the mountains beyond Pa-cara, the whole country, within the reach of the eye, during a passage of two leagues, was a level and open plain, without trees or mountains, covered with fields of wheat, barley, maize, and other grain, whose verdure, different from that of the mountain, naturally gave us great pleasure i our sight for near-a twelvemonth

igitized'by

*o6 . A VOYAG? TO - Book VL.

month having been conversant only with the products q( hot and moist countries, very foreign to theser which nearly resemblq those of Europq, and excited in our minds the pleasing ide$ of our native soil.

The corregidor entertained us in bis house at Gua» randa till the zistof the same month,, *y|ien we continued our journey to QuitQ. The ;h#nnpmpter was for three days successively at 1004-^

On the a 2d, we began tocrpssthedesert;ofC|him* bora?o, leaving the mountain of that name on the left, and travelling over different eminences and height^ most of which were of sand, fhe spow for 3 great distance forming, as it were, the $ide§ of tb$ fountain. At half an hour a%ar five in the evpning we arrived at a place-caijsd Rumi JN/Jach^i, that is, a stony cave, an appellation derived fxq&\$??ast cavity in a rock, and u&ich \\h$ only lo^giog travel Jers find here. , , - ,,.,-.,.

This d<ay5e joqrney was not without its trouble $ for though we had npthipg to; fear from precipices, or dangfrous passes, like those in the rc^d to &uq* randa, yet we suffered $6t a little from. \h§ cojd ot that desert, then increased by tlj$ violence pf the ^indt Soon after we had passed ibe large san^Jy plain,* an4 being thus got over the severest part ofthe desert, we came to the ruinaof an antippt palace of Ync§s, j>ilu* ated in a valleybetw/eefHw* mountains 1 but thesexuin* ftre little more than the foundations of the walls..

On the 33d,at three quarters after, five ip thenrjorn* jng, the thermometer w#s at 1000, .or the fizzing point, and accordingly we found the whole country covered wfrha hoar ftjost:; iwd the but i# wbi,ch we lay had iqp pn it. At nine; m the morning we set ppi, «ill keeping alqflg the #dfr flf Cbimbprazo. At twp in the .afternoon we arcrjyed, at D#oQhv* small, mjean place; but where w$ were obliged to j^ss the night,

O.N tbe ^4tb,at six in the *nprniug,the tbermome*.

ter was at jloq6^ apd at pine we set put for Hamhato,

1 which

Cr. L SOUTH AMERICA. A07

Which we reached at one in the afternoon, after passing several torrents, breaches, or chasms of the mountain Carguairaso, another mountain covered with snow, & little north of Chimborazo. Among these chasms is one without water, the earth remaining dry to the depth of twelve feet. This chasm was caused by a violent earthquake, which shall be spoken of in itt place.

On the 25 th, the thermometer at Hambato, at half an hour after five in the morning, stood at 1010, and on the 26th, at six in the morning, at 1009*. This day, having passed the river of Hombato, and afterwards that of St. Miguel, by help of a wooden bridge^ we arrived at Latacunga.

Ok the 27th, at six in the morning, the thermome-ter was at 1007, when leaving Latacunga we reached in the evening the town of Mula-Halo, having in the way forded a river called Alaques.

On the 28th, the liquor of the thermometer was at the same height as at Latacunga, and we proceeded on our journey, arriving in the evening at the mansion-house or villa called Chi Shinche. The first part df this day's joiirney was over a large plain, at the end of which we had the pleasure of passing by a structure that belonged to the Pagan Indians, being a palace of the Yncas. It is called Callo, and gave name to the plain. We afterwards came to an acclivity, at the top of which we entered on the plain of Tiopullo, not less in extent than the first; and at the bottom, towards the north, is the house where we were entertained that night.

Ok the 29th, the thermometer at six in the morning was at 1003-J-. We set out the earlier, a$ this was to be our last journey. A road crossing several breaches and beaten tracks, brought us to a spacious plain called Tura-Bamba, that is, a muddy plain ; at the other extremity of which stands the city of Quito, where we arrived at five in the evening. The president

*oS # A VOYAGE TO Book Vi

eident of tbe province was Don Dionesio de Alzedo y Herrera, who, besides providing apartments for us in the palace of the Audencia, entertained us the first three days with great splendour, during which we were visited by the bishop, the auditors, the canons, the regidore^, and all other persons of any distinction, vrj)Q seemed to vie with each other in their civilities -' - towards us. *

In order to form an adequate idea of this country, it will not be amiss, after being so particular in deT scribing the disagreeable parts, and the many dangers lo which travellers are exposed, to add a description of the most remarkable productions of nature. The lands between the custom-bouse of Babahoyo, or Caraco), andGuaranda, are of two kinds: the first, which extends to Tarigagua, is entirely level; and the second, which begins at that part, wholly mountainous. But both, and even two leagues beyond Pucara, are full of thick forests of various kinds of large trees!, differing in the foliage, the disposition of « their branches, and the size of their trunks. The mountains, which form this chain of the Andes, are, on the west side, covered with woods; but on the east entirely bare. Among these mountains is the source of that river which, being increased on all sides by brooks, makes so grand an appearance bev tween Caracol and Guayaquil, and proves so advan~ tagcous to {he commerce of the country.'

In the level part of this woody extent are a great number of animals and birds, of the same kind with those described in our account of Carthagena, except that to the last may be added wild peacocks, bustards, pheasants, and a few others, which are here in such abundance, that, did they not always rest on thetop&of the trees, where, either from their enormous freight, or being covered with leaves, they arc secure, a traveller, with^a good fowling-piece and ammunition, might at any time procure himself an elegant repast* But 7 these

ClM* ,-: SOUTH AMERICA. 209

these forests are also, terribly infested with snakes and monkeys, particularlyj*a: Jdnd;caHed marimcindas, which are $0 very large*/ that* when-standing on their Kind legs, they are littteiessthan six*feet high. jThey . are blaek,an<J, in every respect, very Hgty » but easily] tamed*. None of cbeibrests are .without them*; but they seem most common in those of Guayaquil.. \» . iV*<ONp:the vegetableproductions, I Shalt select three, which to me seerted Worthy of a particuiardd4 scriptiQnrinamely, the eaofa, vijahua, andthebejuco* as they arc not only the. materials of which the housed in,the jurisdiction o£ Guayaquil are built;/but alsbap* plied rafraprious other s\$&%ui< * . j ^ > v;

-. The C4na3> pr canes, are.remarkable bottafcr ihaif length and thickneas, and the prater contained in cheiit tUbea. * Their.usual length is between six and;eight toise§fciAfid though ther^ is a difference in their sfzeg the largest do:iibt exceed six inches diamefcen The wood *>r side of the txdbe is about six lines indiameteri sp that, when thecaoa is opened, it formiafboardindau % a fopt and a half in.»breadth; and:hence it wiU not appear stringe, that houses should be;bu\lt of such materials* From tht time of their: firat appearance, till they attain their full iptjrfectioh, when they ar& either cut dowa, or of themselves begin to dry, moat of: their tubes contain a quantity of. water *: but! with f this remarkable difference, thafc at fall moon they are entirely, or very nearly, full *, ind wid* the decrease , of the jttGQn the water.ebbs, till at the conjunction i little or none is to be:found* I haw Jiiyself cut them > at allaeasons, so that I/feere advance nothing but what : I know tojbejtruefrom frequent experience * I havtt \ afeo :observed that the. waiter durir^g its decrease ap-1 peate turhid, but about*he time of the full moohit J 15 as clear as crystal. -;l*helndians add another:par* titular, that the water. is not found in.all the joints,. one having waaer, and another not, alternately w All I can say to this singularity is, that on opening a t Voju I. P joint

aio A VOYAGS TO " Book V

joint which happens to be empty, the two contiguous ones have water* and this is commonly the case in almost all the canes. Thi* water is said to be ah eK-cellefat preservative against &e ill conseqtience of any bruises j at feast it is drank as such by ail who cofli* froin the mountains, where such accidents am unavoick able* '....' . \ . -,

Thb canej being cut, they are left to dry, or> as they sky here, to be cured] whence they acquire such a degree of strength, that they serve either for rafters* beams, flooring) or even masts for balsas* Ships which load witjt cacao a^e^lso cielfld with them, to preserve the timbers from the great heat of that fruit. They are alsa used as poles for ikteis, and kv an infinite number of other particulars,

Tni vijahua is a leaf generally five^eet m length* and two and a half in breadths They g*6w wild* *nd withourany stem. The principal rib in the mkktte* is between four and five lines in breadth, but all she other part* «f the leaf are perfectly soft and smooth: the under side is green, and the upper white, covered with a very fine white and viscid down. Besides the common use of it in covering h6uses, it alsfr series for packing up sak, fish, and other goods sent to the mountains; as insecure* them from the rain, They are also, in these desert places, of singular use for run-> ning up huts on any exigency.

The bejucos are a kind of ligneous cordage, and of two kinds$ one growing from the earth* $nd twining found trees* the wher strike their toot* into certain trees: and irom thence derive their noumta&ent* Both kinds, after crowing to a gseas height, fftdind a^ain to the earth, on which they creep till they meet with another tree, to the top of which they climb as before, and then again renew their inclination towards the earth; and thus form a labyrinth of ligatures* Some are even seen extended from the top *f one tree to another,-like a cord. They are so remarkably

flexile,

C». t SOUTH AMERICA. an

flexile, chat fifc bending or twisting can .break them* But if not cut at the proper time, they grow of art unwieldy bigness. The slenderest of them are about four ot five line* in diameter, but the most com* fton siie is between six and eight; though there arc cithers much thicker, but of little or no use,, on ac* count of the hardness contracted in their long growth. The chief Use of them is for lashing, tying, or fasten* ing different thirigs together; and, by twisting several 6feheto in the nature of ropes, they make ca* Wes and hawsers for the balsas and small vessel*') and are founfd by experience to last a long time in th€ water.

Iw thiesfe forests also grows a tree, called very pro-' perfy Matapalo; i. e. kill-timber. It is of itself a tteak tree; but, growing near another of consider We bulk, and coming into contact with it, shoot* fcbove it, When, expanding its branches, it deprives its neighbour of the rays of the sun. Nor is this all* for, as this imbibes the juices of the earth, the ochef Withers and dies. After which, it becomes lord of f be* soil,* and increases to such a bulk, that very larga canoes are made of it; for which its wood is, of all others, the best adapted, being very light and fibrous*

J ' **'-' ' > ' - - - - ^ - .1.. AlH .i^. I.I. iA

CHAP. H.

tHjfUultus attending our making the necessary Observe Hons for measuring the Length of an Areh of the Merman* and the Manner of our Living during the Operations.

AIX, the progress made during one whole year, . which we spent in coming to Quito, was this $xirmimmmg the difficulties of the passage, and at length reaching that country whe*e we were to wtet"

P 2 on

2i2 /A VOYAGE T& BookV.

on the principal part of our commission* Nor will «vea this appear a small matter, if the great distance and diversify of climates be considered. A few of the first d^ys after our arrival were spent in peaking proper returns for the civilities we had received from ^11 persons of rank; after which, we hegan to deliberate on the best methods of performing our work; "and the rather, as M. Bouguer and de laGondamine were now arrived. The former reached Quito on the ioth of June, by the same road of Quaranda; and the latter on the 4th of the same month, haying taken his,route by the river of Emeralds, ia t\\t government of Atacames. ' V * .1 j * . . Our first operation was, to measure a pie$e of ground, which was to be the base of the whotework j and this we finished during the remainder of the current year. But it proved a very difficult and fatiguing operation, from the heat of the sun, and the winds and rains, which continually incommoded us. The plain wade choice of for this base is situated 249 toises lower than Quito, and four leagues -co the N. E. q{ that city. It is called the plajn of Yaryqui, from a village of that name near it. This plain wa,s particularly xhosen, as the best adapted to our operations! for though there are several others in this district, yet all of them lay at too great a distance from the direction of our base. The quality, disposition, and lower situation, all contribute to render it less cold than Quito. Eastward it is defended by the lofty Cordillera of Guamani and Pambamarca, and west* Ward by that of Pichincha, The soil is entirely sand j so that, besides the heat naturally resulting from the direct rays of the sun, it is increased by the* rays being reverberated by the two Cordilleras t hftnce it is also exposed to violent tempests of thunder, lightning, and rain ; but, being quite op&i towards the north and south, such dreadful whirlwinds form here, that the whole interval is filled with columns

Ch.II:~ SOUTH AMERICA. 413

iumns of sand, carried up by the rapidity and gyrations of violent eddy winds, which sometimes produce fatal consequences: ohe melancholy instance happened while we were there; an Indian, being caught in the centre of one of these blasts, died on the spot. It is not, indeed, at all strange, that the quantity of sand in one of these columns should totally stop all respiration in any living creature, who has the misfortune of being involved in it.

Our daily labour was, to measure the length of this plain in a horizontal direction, and, at the same time, by means of a level, to correct the inequalities of the ground; beginning early in the morning, and continuing to pursue our task closely till evening, unless interrupted by extreme bad weather; when we retired to a tent always pitched for that purpose, as well as "for a retreat at noon, when the heat of the sim, became too great for us, after the fatigue of the morning. * * - \

We at first intended to haVe formed our basis iri the plain of Cayao>be, situated twelve leagues to- the north of Quito. Accordingly, the company first re* paired to this plain, to view it more attentively. In this place iye lost fyl. Couplet, on the 17th of September 1736, ri&er only two days illness. He wa.<rindeed slightly indisposed when we set out from Quito ; but, being of a strong constitution* his zeal for the service would not permit him to be absent at our first essay. On his arrival, however, his distemper-rose to such a height, that he had only two days to prepare for his passage into eternity; but we had the satisfaction to see he performed his part with exemplary devotion.* Thisalmost subitaneous death of a person in theflowef of his age, was the more alarming, as none of us could discover the nature of his disease.

The mensuration of the base was succeeded by observing the angles, both horizontal and vertical, of the first triangles we intended to form; but many of them

P 3 were

pi4 A VOYAGE TO Boa* Y

were not pursued, the form and disposition of the aeries being afterwards altered to very gr$at advantage. In order .to this, M. Vergwn, with soib$ ttthers, was 6ent to draw a geographical map of the parts south of Quito; whilst M. Bouguerdid (he mtm *ritb regard to the northern parfsj a task we found-absolutely necessary, in order to determine the points where <he signals should fee placed, so as t* form the most regular triangles, and whose sides fchould not be intercepted fry higher mountains.

During these operations, M. de la Condarain* went to Lima, in order to procure motoey on <recom* mendatory letters of credit, which he had brought firoki France, for defraying the expence9 of the oo«u pany, till remittances arrived} and Don George Juan 1 followed htm, in order to confer with the viceroy of Peru, for amicably determining sorpe diSer^noen which had arisen with the new presideht.

These two gentlemen, having happily terminated fheir respective affairs, returned to Quito ^bout the middle of June, when both M. Bouguer.aiad those who surveyed the southern pares had finished their plans, ft was now determined to continue the perie* of triangles to the south of Quito* and the company Accordingly divided themselves into two feodies, cont gistiug of French and Spaniards, and each retired tQ the part assigned him; Don George Juan and M. Godisi, who were at the head of one party, went to the mountain of Pambanwcaj while M. JJomguer, de laCondamine, and myself, together wkh our as* sistants, climbed up to the highest summit of JPichmr pha. Both parties suffered not a little, both from tha severity of the cold, and t^e impetuosity of the winds, vhich on these heights blew withincessant violence i and these difficulties were the more paipful t<^ us, as we h$d been little used to auch sensations. Thug in the torrid zone, nearly under the equinoctial, where \t is natural k> su^use we hud j$m% to fear from the

Cn,«. SOUTH AMERICA. *i|

hear, <wr greatest pain was caused by tfceexee^iveoes* of the cold* the inisensrness of which may be con» lectured from the foMowing experiments made by the thermometer, carefully sheltered from the windy oa the top of Pichktaha, the freezing point being a* iooo.

Q» the 15th of August, 1737, at twrelve at noon, the liquor was at the height of 1003. At four in the evening*auoo i*. At fix in the evening, at 998+,

On the 16th of August, at six in the morning, at $97. At tee in the forenoon, at 1005. At twelve at noon, at 1008, At live in the evening, at 1001+. At six in the evening, at 9994-.

Off the 17th, at three quarters after five in thq morning, at 996. At nine in die morning, at ioqi. At * aftwr tweive, at iojq. At + after tw6 in the afternoon, U 10 iH* At six in the evening, at 999. And at tm in the evening, at 998.

Qvx first scheme for shelter and lodging, in these uncomfortable regions* was, to pitch a field*tent for each company» but on Pichiacha this could not be done, from the narrowness of the summits and we were obliged to be contented with a hut, so small, that we could hardly ail creep into it. Nor will this appear strange, if the reader considers the bad disposition and smajlness of displace, it beingone of the loftiest crags of a rocky mountain, oae hundred toises above the highest part of (he desert of Pichincha* Such was the situation of our mansion, which, like all the other ad* jacent parts* soon became covered with ice and snow* The ascent \sp this stupendous rock, from the base, or the place where the mules could some, to our ha* bitation, was $o craggy, as only to he climbed on foot* and co perform it, cost jus foair hours continual labour and pain, from the violent efforts of the body, and the aubtility of the air; the latter being such, as to render respiration difficult. It was my misfortune, when I climbed something above half way* to he so

P 4 | over*

*i6 < A VOYAGE"W V&kT.

overcome, that I fell downjaftdremainfed a long time without sense or motfon ^and, as r wais told, with ail the appearances of death in my&ce. Nor was I able to proceed after coming to myself* but was obliged to xeturn to the foot of the rock, wherafeurservapts and instruments remained. The next day I renewed the attempt t>f climbing the rock* though1 probably I should have had no better success than before,* had not some Indians assisted me in the most steep and difficult places.

Th e strange manner of living which w« were redu* ced to, may not, perhaps, prove unentfertaWring to the reader j and therefore I shall, as a specimen of it, give a succinct account of what we suffered on Pi-chincha. For this desert, both with regard to. the operations we performed there,and its inconveniences, differing very little from others, an idea may be very easily formed of the fatigues, hardships, and dangers^ to which we were continually exposed. Thepiin-cipal difference between the several deserts, consisted in their greater or lesser distancfe from places where we could procure provisions; and in the inclemency of the weather, which was proportionate to the height of the mountains, and the season of the year when we visited them.

We generally kept within our hut. Indeed, we were obliged to do this, both on account of the in-tenseness of the cold, the violence of the wind, and pur being continually involvedin so thick a fog, thatr an object at six or eight paces was hardly discernible, "When the fog cleared up, the clouds, by their gravity, moved nearer to the surface of the earth, and4 on all sides surrounded the mountain to a vast dU stance, representing the sea, with our rock like an i?knd in the centre of it. When this happened, we heard the horrid noises of the tempests, which therj discharged themselves on Quito and the neighbour-|n£ county, We saw the lightnings issue from the

* ' clouds^

Ch**L~ SOUTH-AMERICA. lty

clouds, and>hear& the thunders roll far beneath* «s; »nd, whilst the lower parts, were involved ia tempests of thunderand rain, we enjoyed a delightful serenityj - jthe rwind was abated, the sky clear, and the enliven* ing rays of the sun moderated the severity of the cold. But our circumstances Were very different when the grloudsrose; their thickness rendered respiration difficult; the snow and hail fell continually, .and the wind returned with all its violence; so that it was impossible entirely to overcome the fears of being, together with our hut, blown down the precipice on ariiose edge it was built, or of being buried under it by the daiiy/accumulations of ice and snow.

The wifcd was often so violent in these regions, that its velocity dazzled the sight; whilst our fears were increased by the dreadful concussions of the precipice by. the fall of enormous fragments of rocks. These crashes were the more alarming, as no other noises are heard in the§e deserts. And, during the night, ourx«tf, Which we so greatly wanted, was frequently distuwed by such sudden sounds. When the weather was any thing fair with us; and the clouds gathered about some of the other mountains which had a con* section with our observations, so that we could not giakeall the u$e we desired of this interval of good weather, we left our hut, to exerci»oursdve$,in order to keep us warm*. Sometimes we descended to some small distance, and at others amused ourselves with rolling large fragments of rocks down the precipice* and these many times required the joint strength of us all, though we often saw the same performed by the mere force of the wind. , But we always toofc care in our excursions not to go. 90 far, but that on the least appearance of the clouds gathering about out cottage, which often happened very .suddenly, we could regain our shelter. The door of pur hut was fastened with thongs of leather, and on the inside not the smallest crjpvice was left unstopped > besides which.

fit A VOYAGE TO Boe*V.

it was v&ty compactly covered with straw* But, not-withstanding all our care, the wind penetrated through, The days were often little better than the nights; and ail the tight we enjoyed was that of a lamp or two, which we kept burning, that we might distinguish, «ne another, and improve our time as much as po*. sibie in reading. Though our hut was small, and crowded with inhabitants, besides the heat of the lamps, yet the intenseness of the cold was such, that every one of us was obliged to have a .chafidgdish of coals. These precautions would have rendered thfe rigour of the climate supportable, had 'not the im» minent danger of perishing by being blown down the precipice roused us, every time At snowed, to en-* counter the severity of the outward air, and sally out with shovels, to free the roof of our hut from the masses of snow which w$re gathering on it* Nor would it, without this precaution, have been able to support the weight We were not, indeed, without servants and Indians; but they were so bemmbed with the cold, that it was with great diificimy we could get them out of a small tent, where they kept a continual fire. So that all we could obtain from them was, to take their turns in this labour * and even thea they went very unwillingly about it, and consequently performed it slowly,

It may be easily conceived what we sufiered from the asperities ofsoph a climate. Our feet were swelled, and so tender, that we could not even bear the heat, and walking wa$ attended with extreme pain. Our Jjands were covered with chilblains $ our lips swelled $nd chopped $ so that every motion, in speaking of fhe like, drew blood; consequently we were obliged to a strict taciturnity, and but little disponed to laugh, a» extension of the lips producing fissures, very pain* till for two or three days together.

Our common food in this inhospitable region was

a litde rice boiied with some flesh ox fowl, which we

8 procured

Ch. IL SOUTH AMERICA. 119

procured from Quito; and, instead of fluid *r*ter, our pot was filied with ice: we hud the same reeowte with regard to what we drank: and, while we were ea& ing, every one was obliged to keep ^bis plate over a chafingdish of coals, to prevent his provisions foom freezing. The same was done with regard to the water. At first we imagined , that drinking strong liquors would diffuse a heat through the body;, ani consequently render it less seosible of the painful fharpnessof the cold ; but, to our surprise, we felt *o maimer ofsfrength in them, oor were they any grea»f preservative against the cold than common water; for this reason, together with the apprehension that they might prove detrimental to our health* fceektai the danger of contracting 2m ill habit, wedisc&nttsiuffid (hair use, having recourse co them but very sei&*n9 and then sparingly. We frequently ^awajameii quantity to c»*r Iadians, together with port, of the pnmsioas which were continually sent us fromQuttoj besides a daily salary of four times as mudi as obey Usually earn.

But, nocwid*standing all these encouragements, we found ic impossible to keep the Indiana together* Gntheir first feeling the rigours of the cliaaate, their thoughts ware immediately turned on deserting m. The first instance we had of this kind was so imecu pected, that, had not one of £ better disposition than the ce%L staid with us, and acquainted us of their de* «gn, it might have proved of very bad consequence. The affair was this: there being on the top of the rock no room far pitching * tent far tbern, they used every evening to vetire to a cave at the foot of stom Wotjatain, where, besides a natural diminution of the oojfld, they-coidd keep a continaoai fire; and oonse» quendy enjoyed more oorafortable quarters jthaAtiwt* piasters. Before they withdrew at night, they fastened ©n the outside the door of our hut, which wjwso low that it wasimppflsihle pogodabrxjutwtthowatoopingi

2SO A VOYAGE TO Book V,

and, as- every night the hail and snow which had /alien formed a wall against the door, it was the bu-r siness of one or two to come up early and remove this obstruction, that, when we pleased, we might open the door. For though our Negro servants were lodged in a little tent, their hands and feet were so co-vered with chilblains, that they would rather have Buffered themselves to have been killed than move. The Indians therefore came constantly up to dispatch this work betwixt nine and ten in the morning; but 'we had not been there above four or five'days, when we were not a little alarmed to see tpn, eleven, and twelve come, without any news of our labourers; when we were relieved by the honest servant men* tioried above, who had \yithstood the seduction of his countrymen, and informed us of the desertion of the four others. After great difficulty,\he opened a way for us to come out, when we all tell to clearing our habitation from the masses of snow. We then sent the Indian to the cbrregidor of Quito, with ad-; vice of our condition, who, with equal dispatch, sent others, threatening to chastise them severely, if they were wanting in their duty.

. .But the fear of punishment was not sufficient to induce them to support the rigour of our situation ; for within two days we missed them. On this second -desertion the corregidor, to prevent other inconveniences, sent four Indians under the care of an alcalde, and gave orders for their being relieved every fourth day.

Twenty-three tediousdays we spent on this rock, viz. to the 6th of September, and even without any possibility of finishing our observations of the angles; for, tfrhen it was fair and clear weather with us, the others, on whose summits were erected the signals which formed the triangles for measuring the degrees of the meridian, were hid in clouds; and when (as we conjectured, for we could never plainly discern them) ;. . ' ' those

. C«.-D. i SOUTtt-AlvlEKlCA. 22s.

those were clear, Pichincha was involved in clouds* Ic was therfefbre necessity to erect our signals in a lower situation, and in a more favourable * region* This, however, did not produce any change in dur "habitation^ rill December, When, having finished the pbservations which particularly concerned Pichincha, we proceeded to others; but with no abatement either of ineonveniencies, cold or fatigue, the places*. where we made all our observations being necessarily km the highest parts of the deserts; so that the only respite^ in which we* enjoyed fome little ease, was during the short interval of passing^from one to the other. , In all our stations subsequent to that on Pichincha, during our fatiguing mensuration of the degrees of the meridian, each company lodged in a fiekUtent, which, though small, we found less inconvenient than our Pichineha hut, though atth^same time: we'had more trouble, being ofteher obliged to clear it from thesnow, as the weight of it would otherwise have demolished the tent. At first, indeed, we pitched it mthemosc sheltered places; but, on taking a resolution that the, tents themselves should serve for signals/to prevent the inconventertce of those of wood, we removed them to a more exposed situation, where the impetuosity of die winds sometimes tore tip the piquets, and blew diem clown. Then we wem not a little pleased with our having brought supernumerary tented and widt ottr dexterity in pitching another instead ofithatwhitSi the wind-had t6rn away. Indeed, without this pre* caution, we should have been in the utmost danger of perishing. In the desert of Asuay we^rtlcularly * experienced the benefit of this expedient; three tencs belonging to otir company being obliged to be pitched one after another, till at lasfcihey all becameomfit for use, arid two stout poles were-broken. In. this terrible condition our on\f resource wa^to quit the post, which was next to-the signal of Sinasaguan, and shelter ourselves in a breac,h or shasm. The two com* :. * - panics

as* A VOYAGE JOt BoBk V.

printed wer* bdth at that rim^'on thw> dfesert, so thdt she sufferings of both, were equal. The Indiana whd attended usr not wiUmgto b^r the severity of th<* eoid,*nd disgusted wiehuhe frequent labour of clcai*-iog the tent, from the #w>w, at the fhftfcravages of die wind, deserted us. Thus we were obliged t!o perform every thing ourselves, till other* were tent us from a seat about choree, leagues distant at the bat-torn of the mountain.

Whim: we were thus labouring under* variety of difficulties from the wind* snow, frost, and the'cold, which we herd found more severe than in any othc* part; forsaken by our Indians, lktle or jk> provisions, a scarcity of fuel, and, in a manner, destitute* of shdb ter, the good priest of Cabo&r, a towo situated .Sat the foot of these Cordilleilas, tenth west frdftr the signal ©f Skfis*g»ariy about five leagues from it, and tbd road very difficult, was offering up bis prayer* for us? for hd, and all the Spaniards of the towri> frora<tha blackness of. the Clouds, ggvp its oviar fer lost* sd that, after ftaisbing our observatioiis* whehvte passed sbroagh the town, they viewed us with ifet^kfangnc, and received; us with the most cordial signs of dcu light* adding their congratulations, ae if we had* amidst the most threatening dangers, jofeiained.aglc*' rious victory. And, doubtless, oui* Operations most* appear to. them a very extraordinary performance, if Welonstder the inexpressible horror with \irhich thtgr view those places where We had passed s<> nuafcy days.

It was at first determined to erect signals of wood in the form of a pyramid j btet to render our stay in she piercing colds of these regions as shdrt as possible? tre abandoned that intention, of which there would have been no end * because, after remaining several days in the densest parts of the clouds, when a dear interval happened, the signals could not be disrin* guished: some the winds had blown down, and et&eHi had been earned away, by the Indians wh? tended

Ch.1L * SOUTH AMERICA. rf^

their eattteon the Sides of the mouh tains, for the sake of the timber and ropes. To remedy which, the only expedient was to make the very tents in which we lodged, s*rv* for signals $ for the orders of the ma-» gistfates iild thrteatenings of the priests, "were of lit* fte fconseqttence hi such a desert country, where it wai almost impossible to discover the delinquents

TttB de&em of the mountains of Pambamarca and Pidrincha were the noviciates, in which we were tewed to She severe life we led from the beginning of August r737, to the eftd of July 1739. During Which time, our company occupied thirty-five deserts; and that of Don George Juan, thirty-two; the par* tteiitars df Which shall be enumerated, together with die flames of ail those on which toe erected signals fyt forming4 the triangles; in all which, the inconve-mencies were the same, except that they became tesa tenable, in proportion as pwt bodies became ihured to fetigue, and naturalised to the inclemendes of those legions; so that in time we were reconciled to a ton* tmual solfcudfcy coarse provisions* and often a scarcity of these. Tfcfe diversity of temperatures- dkTmit in the least affect tts, when we descended from the intense cold of &ri& of those deserts into the plains and Valleys, where the heat* though but moderate, seemed excessive to thfcse coming from such frozen regions. Lastly, without any concern, we encountered the dangers unavoidable among those 6teep precipices, and ft great variety of others to which we were continually-elf posed. The little cabins of the Indians, and the Hails for cattle scattered up and down oft the skirts of the mountains, and where we used to lodge in out passage from one defert to another, wefre to us spa* etoas palace*; mean villages appeared like splendid d&&, and the conversation of a priest, and two of thtee of his companions, charmed .us like the bait-* ^*et of Xenophon % the little markets held in those toWnfc, when -we happened to pass through them on r » a Sunday,

a*4 'A- VOYAGE TO - fco«fc V*

a Sunday* seemed-to us as iffiJled-with;3li the variety1 of Seville fair* Thus the least object ,bee#n>e mag* nified, when we descended -for tw<* or,,three daya from our exile, which, in some places, ia%aed fifty day£ successively; and it must be owned, that-there were particular occasions when our^ufferings w<ere£uch, thai nothing could have supported us updef th^m* and aai* floated us to persevere, but that honour, a#d fidelity which, jointly conspijed to induce bpth CQjapgnieiSi whatever f»lM>yld be the consequence*no^jc^ hsaveiqi* perfect|a work so long desired by all civilized natiQiip* and so particularly countenanced by the tyfp paws** ful mon^rchs our soyereigfts. .-,q ') ,.3

It may not be amiss here to mforfo :£ke $£%$&* P$ die different opinions copceived by the fteighb^uriog inhabitants, with regard to our enterpjs^e* S$n^ad** mired our resolution, others could w>fttell what construction to put upon our perseverance* aqd evea those of the best parts and education amojig them were utterly at a loss what to thinks; .They lQade i| their business to examine th$ Indians cpncjernirig th^ life we led,-but the answfcrfc they received oqly .tended- to increase their doubts apd astonishment* . Thejg saw that those people, though naturally hardy,r<^? bust, and inured to fatigues, could not fce' .prevail upon, notwithstanding the encouragement o£ double pay, to continue any,time with us. The serenky i4 which we lived on those dreaded places was not .unknown to them*, and t;*ey saw with what tranquillity ajid constancy we passed from one spen^ of solitude and labour: to another. This to them appearai bo strange, that they were at a loss what t«o actr&tfte ic to. Some considered us as little better than luna* tics ; others, more sagaciously imputed the whole to covetousness, and that we were certainly endeavouring to discover some rich minerals by particular m&* thods of our own invention* others again suspected th^t we dealt in magic* but all were involved in a

labyrinth

Ch. II. SOUTH AMERICA. . *i$

labyrinth df confusion with regard to the patuiV ,0f oar design. And the more they reflected on it* the greater was their perplexity, being unable to discover any thing proportionate to- the pains and hardships we underwent. And even when we informed them of the real motive of this expedition, which caused so much astonishment, their ignorance of its importance would not suffer them to give credit to what we said; suspecting that we concealed, under the veil of an incomprehensible chimera, our real practices, of, which, as I have already observed, they had no good opinion*

Among several pleasant adventures which this oti~ caskmed, I shall only mention two, both which arcs still fresh in my memory; and may serve to illustrate the strange ideas these ignorant people formed of us. While we were at the signal of Vengotasin, erected on a desert,at no great distance from the town of Latacunga, about a league from the place where we had pitched our field-tent was a cow-house, Where we constantly passed the night; for the ascent not being remarkably difficult, we could every morning, in fair weather, return soon enough tothe tent to begin our observations. One morning, as we were passing to the signal, we saw at a distance three or four Indians, in appearance on their knees 5 and we found indeed, Qn our approaching nearer, that this was their real posture; we also observed that their hands were joined, and that they uttered words in their language with the greatest fervour and the most supplicant accent; but, by the position of their eyes, it was evident that we were the persons whom they thus addressed. We several times made signs for them to rise, but they still kept their posture till we were got at a considerable distance. We had scarce begun to prepare our instruments within the tent, when we were alarmed with a repetition of the same supplicant vociferations. On going out to know the

Vol. I. Q cause*

4*4 A VOtAGE TO Boa* V.

cause, y<5 foqnd the sgrfleJtylians agpit>Qn their knees before the; tent; nor were we able, by all ti# signs we epuld make, tor^isethem from tha£ pasture. There fortunately happened ,at that time to be with us 4 servant who understood both the Indian and Spanish latfguagesj and Jiaving directed him to ask these poor people what they wanted of usf we were informed, that the eldest of them was the father of the others, and that his ass being either strayed or stolen, he came to us^ as persons who knew every thing, tointreat us to commiserate his great loss, and put him in a method of recovering his beast. This simplicity of the Indians afforded us no snyril entertainment ; and though we did all we could, by means of our interpreter, to undeceive them, we found they were equally tenacious of this strange error as of genuflexion ; and would stHl believe, that nothing w^s hid from us; till, having wearied themselves with these clamorous vociferations, and finding we took no notice of them, they retired, with all the marks of ex-* treme sorrow that we would not condescend to inform them where they might find the ass ; #nd with a firm persuasion that our refusal proceeded from ill-nature, and not from ignorance.

The other adventure I shall mention, happened to myself in particular, and not with simple and ignorant Indian peasants, but with one of the principal inhabitants of Cuenqa. While the whole company were on the mountain ofBueran, not far from the town of Cannar, I received a message from the priest of that place, informing nfe,thaf two Jesuits of my acquaintance were passing that way, qnd, if I was desirous of seeing them, I might find, them at his house. As I was cheerfully descending the mountain to enjoy this pleasing invitation, I happened to be overtaken by a gentleman of Cuemja, who was going to take a view pf his lands in that jurisdiction, and had observed me coming from our tent. He was, it seems, acquaint-

Ch. IL SOUTH AMERICA. nay

ed with my name, though he had never seen me; but observing me dressed in the garb of the Mestizos, and the lowest class of people, the only habit in which we could perform our operations, he took me for one of the servants, and began to examine me$ and I was determined not to undeceive him till he had finished. Among other things, he told me, that neither he nor any body else would believe, that the ascertaining the figure and magnitude of the earth, as we pretended, could ever induce us to lead such a dismal and uncouth life; that, however we might deny it, we bad doubtless discovered many rich minerals on those lofty deserts; adding, that persons in his circumstances were not to be satisfied with fine words. Here I laboured to remove the prejudices he entertained against oor operations; but all I could say only tended to confirm him in his notion; and, at parting, he added, that, doubtless, by our profound knowledge in the magic art, we'might make much greater discoveries than those who were ignorant of it. These opinions were blended with others equally absurd and ridiculous; but I found it impossible to undeceive him, and accordingly left him to enjoy hU dwn notions.

Ocjr series of triangles in the south part being finished, and a second base measured by each company to prove the truth of our work, we began our astronomical observations; but, our instruments not being perfectly adapted to that intention, we were obliged, in the monthof December of the same year, to return to Quito, in order to cpnstruct another, on whose accuracy we could safely rely; and this employed us till the first of August of the following year 1740; when, without any further loss of time, we again repaired to Cuenqa, and immediately began our observations: but these, being very tedious, were not finished before the end of September ; the atmosphere of that country being very unfavourable to

Q 2 * astrono-

Digitizedty

228 A VOYAGE TO Book V-

astronomical observations. For, in the deserts, the clouds in which we were so frequently involved hindered us from discerning the other signals; and in the city, over which they spread a kind of perpetual paviliQn, they hid the stars from ^s while they passed the meridian; but patience and resolution, inspired by the importance of our enterprise, having enabled us tft last to perform our task on the south side of the equator, we prepared for our journey to the north of it, in order to make the astronomical observations at the other extremity of the arch of the meridian, and thus put the finishing hand to our work: but this was for some time retarded by an accident of importance which called us to Lima, as will be related in the second volume.

In December 1743, the reasons which detained us at Lima, Guayaquil, and in Chiluno longer subsisting, we returned to Quito in January 1744, when Don George Juan and I prolonged the arch of the meridian four triangles, by which if was extended to the place where M. Godin, in 1740, had made the second astronomical observation, and which he now repeated, and finished in the month of May

1744. Mess. Bouguer and M.dela Condamine having

at that time finished the several parts assigned tothem, had left Quito, in order to return to France; the former by the way of Carthagena, and the latter by the river of the Amazdns ; but the rest of the com* pany remained there some time ; some for fear of being taken by the enemy, some for want of the means to-defray the charges necessary in so h>ng a journey, and others on Account of their having con iracted some obligations, and were unwiiling*to leave the country till they could discharge them. So that hx the former only the natural desire of returning to their country prevailed, in order there to repose themselves after N such a series of labours and hardships, by which the % . health

CH.IIt' SOUTH AMERICA. 229

health apd vigour of all were in soippe measure impaired.

CHAP. III. - -

The Names of the Deserts and other Pldces where the Signals were erected for forming the Series of Tri<* angles for measuring an Arch of the Meridian.

TN order to gratify the curiosity of the reader with regard to our operations, I shall mentipn, in separate articles, the places where each company made their observations, and the tfme they were obliged to remain there; omitting a detail of circumstances, many of which would be little more than a paraphrase on the subject of the preceding chapter. Nor shall I here include those stations used in the year 1736, after measuring the base of Yaruqui, both on its extremities and in the deserts of Pambamarca and Yllahalo; for the disposition of the triangles being afterwards altered, they were repeated. Therefore, considering them as not used at that time, I shall begin with those stations in which no such circumstances happened, and range them in the order they were occupied.

Deserts on which the signals were erected for the opera* tions conducted by M. de la Condamine and myself.

I. Signal on the desert of Pichincha.

Th# signal wasrat first erected on the highest summit xpf Pichincba, but afterwards removed to an-, other station at the foot of the pic; the top having been afterwards found not to be the most proper place*. We began our observations on this mountain on the

Q 3 14th

*36 A VOYAGE TO BttoxV.

14th of August 1737, but cotlld ttot ftatsh them before the beginning of December following.

II. The signal on Oyambaro, the south extremity of

the base of Yaruqui.

On the 20th of December 1737, we removed to Oyarabaro; and finished our observations necessary to be made there on'the 29th of the same month.

III. Signal on Caraburu, the northern extremity of

the base of Yaruqui.

On the 30th of December we passed to Caraburu, and continued there till the 24th of January 1738, This long stay was partly occasioned by the badness of the weather, and partly by the warit of signals.

IV. Signal on the desert of Pambamarca.

On this desert of Pambamarca, where we had before been in 1736, on finishing the measurement at Yaruqui, a second signal was erected here, and we went up the 26th of January, 1738, where we remained till the 8th of February; and though we had not here the difficulties of the ice and snow to Strug* gle with, as on Pichincha and other subsequent stations, yet we were extremely incommoded by the velocity of the winds, which were sp violent that it was difficult to stand; and, notwithstanding the best shelter possible to be procured, we often found it verj difficult to keep the instrument steady i which, of consfequence, greatly increased the difficulty of making the observations with the necessary accuracy.

V. Signal on the mountain of Tanlagua.

On the 12th of February we ascended the mountain of Tanlagua; and having the next day finished our observations, returned. If this mountain be but

small

Ch. III. SOUTH AMERICA, a3i

small in comparison of others in this Cordillera, and thus savfed as the many inconveniencies of a lofty station, yet the steepness of its sides put us to no small difficulty, there being no other possible method of going up than by climbing; and the greatest care ferequisite in fixing the hands and feet close and firm; nor is it possible to climb it in less than four hours. The descent, as may naturally be concluded, is little less hazardous*; as you must sit and slide down much the greater part of it; and this must be done gently, lest, by celerity of motion, you tumble down the precipice.

VI. SrowAL on theplain of Changalli.

On the 7th of March we removed to the signal of Changalli, and finished the necessary observations on the aoth. We spent the time here very comfortably. The signal was erected on a plain, where neither the air nor \yeather molested us; and being lodged in a farm-house near the signal, and not far from the town of Pintac, we had all the necessary conveniences of life, the want of which we often severely felt in the deserts. These comforts aid not, however, in the least abate our diligence to avail ourselves of every instant when the signals on the mountains were nitf conceal* ed in clouds. But one circumstance which lengthened our stay was, that some of the signals were wanting, having been blown down by the wind ; it was therefore resolved, thlat for thfe future the,field-tents should serve for signals. And, accordingly, v\e afterwards constantly pursued this method.

VII. Signal on the derert of Pucaguaico, on the side of the mountain Catopaxi.

This mountain we ascended the #ist of March, and on the 4th of April were obliged to return, after in vain endeavouring to finish our observations. For,

Q4 not

%$i A VOYAGE TO Book V.

not to mention our own sufferings, xhe frost and snow, together with the; winds, which bleyv so violently that they seemed endeavouring to tear up that dreadful volcano by its roots, rendered the making observations absolutely impracticable. Such is indeed the rigour of this climate, that the very beasts avoid it; nor could our mules be kept at the place where we, at first, ordered the^Indians to take care of them; so that they were obliged to wander in search of a milder air, and sometimes to6ucli a distance that we had often no small trouble in finding them.

At Pucaguaico we however saw the necessity of fcither erecting the signal further to the south, or setting op another in the intermediate space. Several consultations were held, to determine on the best method ; but, as other things were necessary to be done before we came to a conclusiqn, the operations were suspended, and the interval spent in making observations oh the velocity of sound, and othef physical subjects. Every thing being ready for renewing our operations, we a second time ascpnded Pucagjuaico on v the 16th of August, and it was bur good fortune by the 22d to have finished ^11 our necessary operations!

Vill. Signal qxi the desert Corazon.

On the i 2th of July* before w$ had finished our operations at the station of Pucaguaipo, weaspended to the desert Corazori, vytiere we staid till tfy'e 9th of August. This mountain is nearly of the fame height with that of Pichincha; and jts loft iest^ujnmit, like that of the former, a rock of considerable altitude. At the foot of this rock 4the signal was erected; anfi thus our station nearly Yescmbled that of Pichincha. There wrs indeed this considerable difference, that our sufferings from the winds, frost, and snows, were considerably less.

IX. Sio-

Ch. III. SOUTH AMERICA.

IX. Signal on Papa-urco.

It had been determined that Papa-urco should be the place where the intermediate signal betwixt thosfe of Pucaguaico an4 Vengotasin should be erected. This mountain, which is of a middling height,' we ascended the nth of August, and continued on it till the 16th, when we returned to Pucaguaico ; so that this easy mountain was a kind of resting-place between the two painful stations of Corazon and Pu- . caguaioo.

X. Signal on the mountain ofMilin;

Whose height is nearly the same with that of the Papa-urco. We ascended it on the 23d of August,and by the 29th had £nished the necessary observations.

XL Signal on the mountain Vengotasin.

The mountain of Vengotasrn is not remarkably high, but our stay on it was longer than we at first imagined; for, after finishing our observations .on the 4th of September, some difficulties which arose with regard to the position of the following signal towards the south detained us till the 18th. However, the town of Latacungo being contiguous to the skirts of this mountain, anxl having several farms in its neighbourhood, we were at no loss for many conveniencies of which we were destitute in several other stations.

XII. Signal on the mountain of Chalapu.

Our stay on this mountain was shorter than on any other in the whole series of triangles; for we continued only part of four days, gcing up the 20th and coming down the 23d. It is none of the highest jnountains, and has in its neighbourhood the town o( Harpbato, and its skirts diversified with seats and

farms;

rm'

*34 . A VOYAGfc TO Bbax V.

farms ; but the acclivity is so steep, that the safest way is to ascend it on foot.

XIII. Signal ofCbichichoco.

The signal of Chichichoco was erected on the fcide bf the mountain of that name, which is a branch of the famous snowy mountain of Carguairaso. Here we stayed only from the 24th to the 29th of September. Though the spot where \ve placed the signal was of 4 very inconsiderable height when compared with that of the other mountains, yet, from its proximity to Car--guairaso, when the wind blew from that quarter,, it was considerably cold, but not comparable to that we felt on the deserts, where every part was covered with ice, hail, or snow. The day we left this place, while ourlndians were loading the mules,and we in the tent ready to set out on our journey, an earthquake was felt, which reached four leagues round the country. Our tent rocked from side to side, in conformity to the undulating motion observed in the earth ; this shock was only one of the smdll concussions frequent in those parts.

XIV. Signal of Mqlmul.

This signal, and the three following, occasioned several journeys from one to another; as> for the greater accuracy of the observations, auxiliary triangles were to be formed,in order to verify the distances resulting from the principal. The difficulty also of repiprocally distinguishing some signals from others, obliged us to change their position, till they stood in proper places; and consequently laid us under a necessity of going often from one station to another. On the 8th of November, having finished all our observations, the company removed to Riobamba, where I myself bad been confined ever since the 20th of October, with a critical disease, which at first attacked

Ch. HI. SOUTH AMERICA. 135

tacked me at Chichichoco, and increasing at Mulrnuf, I was obliged to remain in a cow-house on that moun-tain, from whence I was removed to Riobamba; and this accident hindered me from being present at the signals XV. XVI. and XVII. which were these of Guayama, Lima), and Nabuso.

XVIII. Signal of Sisa-pongo.

At the signal of Sisa-pongo we continued from the 9th to the end of November; and here the trigonometrical observations were intermit led till Don George Juan and M. Godin returned from Quito, to which city they repaired in order to take some measures necessary for the continuation of the work. But, that this interval might not be lost, M. Bouguer pro-^ posed to make some experiments, in order to demonstrate the system of attraction. The place he made choice of for these experiments was the mountain of Chimbarazo. In this station, and the following of the sandy desert of the satne mountain, we suffered more than on any other.

XIX. Signal of Lalanguso. On the desert of Lalanguso, our observations were continued from the 24th to the 31st of January 1739,

XX. Signal on the desert of Chusay.

The station on the desert of Chusay was one of the most tedious in the whole series of triangles, being unavoidably detained on this disagreeable mountain from the 3d of February to the 24th of March. This delay was occasioned by the difficulty of pitching on proper places for erecting the sncccedingsignals, that they might stand in full view, be easily distinguished one from another, and form regular triangles. This wafc iadeed a difficult task, the lofty summits of the mountains of the Cordillera of Azuay, where they were to

a36 A VOYAGE TO Bock V.

be placed, intercepting each other from our sight. The tediousness of this station was increased by the rigour of the weather, the strength of the winds, and its great distance from any place where we could procure convenient shelterand refreshments.

XXI. Signal on the desert of Tialoma.

On the desert of Tialoma we continued from the ft6th of March to the 25th of April; but had little, except the length of the time, to complain of.,

XXII. Signal on the desert of Sinasagua'n.

We arrived at the desert ofSinasaguan on the 27th of April, and left it on the 9th of May, the only clear day we had during our stay ; but as we have already mentioned our sufferings on this desert, it will beun-necessary to repeat them here.

XXIII. Signal on the desert of Bueran,

We continued on the desert of Bueran from the 10th of May to the 1st of June; but, besides the small height of the mountain, the town of Cannar being only two leagues distant from it, we were in want of nothing. The temperature of the air was'also much more mild than on the other deserts; besides, we had the great satisfaction of relieving our solitude by going to hear m&ss on Sundays, and other days of precept in the town. These comforts had, however, some allay ; for while we continued on this desert, the animals, cottages, and Indians, suffered three times in a very melancholy manner by tempests of lightning, which fell on the neighbouring plains; all those countries, especially the desert of Burgay, which borders on that of Bueran, being subject to cerrible storms.

XXIV. Si's-

Ch. III.. SOUTH AMERICA. 437

1

XXIV. Signal on the desert of Yasuay.

OyR observations at the signal of Yasuay were not finished till the 16th of July; there being a necessity, before we could conclude tnem, to pitch on thejnost convenient placefor measuring a second base,in order to prove the accuracy of alljhe preceding geometrical operations; and, after fixing on a proper spotf to determine where the signals between Yasuay and the base could be most properly placed. In order to this, we went to Cuenqa, and from thence proceeded to the plains of Talqui and los Bannos. At last it was determined that the base should be measured in the former, by which the result of the triangles was to be verified by my company, and that of the other in the plain of los Bannos.* The requisite signals also were erected; and we returned to the desert of Yasuay, where we continued ourobservations,which employed us from the yth to the 16th of July, Though this mountain is one of the highest in the wbole territory of Cuenqa, and the ascent so steep that there is no going up but on foot, nor even by that method without great labour, yet the cold is far from, being so intolerable as on Sinasaguan and the deserts north of that mountain. So that we cheerfully supported the inconveniencies of this station.

XXV. Signal on the mountain of Borma.

This mountain is but low, as are all the others in the neighbourhood of Cuenqa, so that here wc were not impeded by any cloudy summits. It was also our good fortune that Yasuay, contrary to our apprehensions, was clear and visible the whole 19th of July; so that we finished our observations in two days agreeably.

XXVI.

igitized'by

*38 A VOYAGE TO Book VI

XXVL XXVII. XXVIII. XXIX. Signals of Pugio, Pillachiquir, Alparupasca, and Chilian.

The two last being the north and south extremities of the base of Talqui, th$ four stations of Pugin, PiU lachiquir, Alparupasca, and Chinan, did not require our attendance ; for being near the base of Talqui, we daily went from the farm-houses where we lodged, and observed the angles, except that of Pillacbiquir, to which, on account of its greater distance than that-of the other signals, there was a necessity for our visiting ; but happily concluding our observations the same day we reached it, there was no reason for our longer stay.

XXX. XXXI. Signals of Guanacauri, and the tower of the great church of Cuenqa.

The series of triangles, except the two last at the extremities of the second base, being finished, it was necessary to form other triangles, in order to fix the place of the observatory where, when the geometrical. observations where finished, the astronomical were to begin. Those which fell to my lot, were a signal on the mountain of Guanacauri, and the tower of the great church of Cuenqa $ and these angles were taken at the same time the astronomical observations were making.

At the north extremity of the arch of the meridian new triangles were afterwards formed, as we have already observed in the foregoing chapter. This rendered it pecessary for u? to make choice of different places on these mountains for erecting other signals* in order to form these triangles. The same order which had been followed during the whole series of mensuration, that each person should take two angles of every triangle, was. observed here; and those assigned to rpe were the following.

XXXIL

Ch. ffl. SOUTH AMERICA. 339

XXXII. XXXIII. XXXIV. XXXV. Signals or Guapulo, the mountain of Campanarip, and those of Cosin, and Mira.

The observations to be made at these four stations could not be finished till those alarming reasons which called us to Lima and Chili no longer subsisted, and we were returned to Quito. The work at» the first and last stations was dispatched without the necessity of lodging there; for being near Quito and the village of Mira, when the weather promised us a favourable opportunity it was only an easy ride; but we found it very different with regard to the stations of Campanario and Cosin. However, we left all the four at the same time, namely, on the 23d of May 1744 ; the day when Don George and myself put the finishing hand to the astronomical observation? which we had re-assumed on the 14th of February of the same year; and thus the whole process relative to the mensuration of an arch of the meridian was con* eluded.

Signals erected on deserts, &c. where the observations were conducted by Mr. Godin and Don . George Juan.

The stations immediately subsequent to the admeasurement of the base of Yaruqui, in the year 1736, and afterwards not made use of, as we have already observed, were common to both companies; the method which was afterwards followed, for every one to observe two angles in all the triangles, not having been thought of; though it both shortened the work, and, at the same time, rendered it much easier : so that Don George Juan and Mr. Godin were on the deserts of Yllahalo and Pambamarca, at the same time with Mess.Bouguer and Condamine-and myself. x I- II.

»4o A VOYAGE TO BookV.

L IL Signals on the extremities of the bare of Yaruqui.

In order to make the necessary observations relating to these two signals, they left Quito on the aoib of August 1737, arid had completely finished them by the 27th. N«

III. Signal on the desert of Pambamarca.

After they hod concluded all the necessary observations at the extremities of the base, they went without delay to the cieseit of Pambamarca, and completely finished their operations by the first of September.

IV. Signal on the mountain of Tanlagua*

Having finished their observations on the desert^ they'came down to the little town of Quenche, in that neighbourhood, in order to proceed from thence to Tanlagua; but the Indians, who were to accompany them, being no strangers to*the extreme.severity of the weather on that desert, discouraged by their^recent sufferings-on Pambamarca, and knowing they should still suffer more on Tanlagua, were not to be found; and the lowest class of inhabitants in the town, apprehending that they should be sent on this painful service, also left their habitations and absconded ; 's6 that the joint endeavours of the alcalde and priest to discover'them proved ineffectual; and after a delay of two whole days, the curate,'with great difficulty, prevailed on the sacristan, and other Indians employed in the service of the church, to accompany them, and take care of the loaded mules as far as the farm-house of Tanlagua, where they arriv-' ed the 5th of September. The next day they began to ascend the mountain, which, being very steep, took thcin up a whole day in climbing it. But this being

more

Ch. tlh SOUTH AMERICA. ^t

more than the Indians were able to perform, as they carried the field-tents, baggage, and instruments, they were obliged to stop half way \ so that those on the top were under a necessity of passing the night there without any shelter ; and a hard frost coming Qn, they were almost perished with cold -, for they were so greatly affected by it, that they had no use of their limbs till they returned to a warmer air. After all these hardships, the gentlemen could not finish their observations, some of the signals being wanting, having either been blown down by the winds, or carried away by the Indian herdsmen: so that, during the interval while persons were employed in erecting others, they returned to Quito, and applied themselves to examine the divisions of the quadrants. These operations, being very tedious, employed them till the month of December, when, all the signals which were wanting being replaced, they again, on the 20th of December, repaired to their post atTan-lagua; and on the 27 th finished the observations necessary to be made at that station.

V. Signal on the mountain of Guapulo.

The signal of Guapulo being erected on a mountain of no great height, and in the neighbourhood of Quito, their residence was not necessary, for, by setting out from the city at day-break, they ,could reach the field-tent, where the instruments were left, early in the morning. These journeys repeated every day, and though every moment of time was improved to the greatest advantage, it was the 24th of January 1738 before they finished the observations, with that accurate precision so conspicuous in all their operations*

VI. Signal on the Cordillera and desert of Guamani.

They were obliged to make two journeys to the

mountain of Guamani, the signal having been first

Vol, I. R nvs-

a*i A VOYAGE TO Book V.

misplaced, so as not to be seen from that erected on Corazon ; and consequently**here was a necessity for removing it. And though, in order to do this, they ascended the mountain on the 28th of January, they found it necessary to return thiche» on the 7th of February, when they were fortunate enough to finish every thing remaining the very next day.

VII. Signal on the desert of Corazon.

This mountain also the gentlemen were obliged to visit twice ; the-first journey was on the 20th of January, and the second on the 12th of March, 1738.

VIII. Signal of Limpie-pongo, on the desert of Cotopaxi.

They went up to the desert of Cotopaxi on the i'6th of March, and remained there fill the 31st; when they observed that the signal of Gnamani was not visible from thence, and therefore it was necessary to erect another in the intermediate space; which being completed on the 9th of August, they again repaired to the signal of Limpie pango, on Cotopaxi; where they finished all their operations by the 13th of the same month, and left every thing ifn exact order. In ascending the mountain in this second journey, the mule on which Don George Juan rode fell down a breach four or five toifes deep, but providentially without receiving the least hurt.

-As they had been obliged to erect another signal between those of Guamani and Limpie-pongo, in order to continue the series of triangles ; so there was also a necessity for returning to some stations, to observe again the angles which had before been determined. These operations, together with the experiments on the velocity of sound, and the observations at the new signal, filled up the interval from

Ch. III. SOUTH AMERICA* *4l

the time the operations were suspended jon Limpie-pongo, till they returned to finish them*

IX. Signal on the desert of Chinchulagua.

The operations of the signal of Ghinchulagua, erected on the desert of the same name, were completed on the 8 th of August; but a doubt arising with regard to one of the angles observed* for the greater certainty, they returned to this station, and again examined the angle in question, after they had finished their observations at Limpie-pongo.

X. Stgnal on the mountain of Papa*urcok

After verifying the observation on Chinchulagua, they removed to the signal of Papa-urco, and finished their observations in the 6ame month of August. Here they for some time suspended their operations, being called to Quito on affairs of importance, relating to the French academicians*

XL Signal on the mountain of Milin*

The affairs which had required ML Godin's presence at Quito being terminated within the month, they returned, on the 1st of September, to make the necessary observations at the signal of Milin, where they continued till the 7th, when they left it, having completely finished their operations.

XII. Signal on the desert of Chulapu.

From Milin they proceeded to the desert of Chulapu, where they remained till the 18 th of September, when they had finished all their observations. Till this signal, exclusive, each company had observed the three angles of all the triangles 5 both because they differed from one another, and to prove by this precision the errors in the divisions of the quadrants, belt 2 fore

244 A VOYAGE TO Book V.

fore observed by other methods. But from this signal, inclusive, each company observed two angles only of the other triangles, as had been agreed on.

XIIL Signal in Jivicatsu.

In Jivicatsu they remained from, the 18th to the 26th of September. This station was one of the most agreeable; for, besides the height on which the signal was erected, the temperature of the air, and the cheerful aspect of the country, the town of Pilaro was in the neighbourhood, so that they wanted for nothing.

XIV. XV. Signals on the deserts of Mulmul and Guayama.

These two deserts are placed together, because their summits are united by gentle eminences; on one of which is a cow-house, used by the Indians when they go in search of their cattle, which feed on the sides of this mountain. In this cow-house Don George Juan, M. Godin, and their attendants, took up their quarters on the 30th of September, and every morning, when the weather was favourable, repaired to the signal erected on one or other of the eminences. But the distance between the two stations being very small, and the observations made there requiring to be verified by those of other auxiliary triangles, it was absolutely necessary to determine exactly the stations where these triangles were to be formed; and to remain there till the distances were settled, and the observations relating to them concluded ; which operations, notwithstanding the greatest diligence was used, employed them till the 20th of October.

Every thing at the two preceding stations being finished, they repaired to the village of Riobamba, determining to continue their work Without interruption; but meetingwith some difficulties concerning the most advantageous position of the subsequent triangles, and

money

Ch. III. SOUTH AMERICA. 245

money beginning to grow short with our whole society, both Spaniards and French, it was thought necessary to make use'ofthe interval while the proper places for , erecting the signals were determining, to procure supplies. Accordingly, M. Godin and Don George Juan again set out from Riobamba for Quito on the 7 th of November; but it was the ad of February foU lowing before we had the pleasure of congratulating them on their return, the former having been seized with a fever, which brought him very low, and detain* ed them a considerable time at Quito,

XVI. XVIL Signals on Amula and Sisa-pongo.

The observations necessary at the signal of Amula were finished before the journey to Quito; and from the 2d of February 1739, when they returned to Riobamba, till the 19th, they were employed in those relating to Sisa-pongo.

XVIII. Signal on the mountain of Sesgum.

On the mountain of Sesgum they had occasion to stay only from the 20th to the 23d of February. For this signal stood on the decliyity of a mountain, and they vigilantly employed every moment when the other deserts were free from those clouds in which they are usually involved.

XIX. Signal on the desert of Senegualap.

The observations at the signal of Senegualap detained them from the 23d of February to the 13th of March. The length of the time was indeed the most disagreeable part, as otherwise they did not place this among the worst stations they had met with during their course of observations,

XX. Sic*

R3

$4* A VOYAGE TO Book V.

XX. Signal on the desert of Chusay.

From Senegualap they proceeded to the desert of Chusay, a station which gave these gentlemen no less trouble than it had done us. Our company had no concern with the station on this desert; for according to the alternative established between the two companies, that of Senegualap was the place to which we were to repair. But after finishing the observations at Lalanguso, being uneasy at the long stay of M. Go-din and Don George Juan at Quito, to divert our thoughts by some laborious employment, we divided pur company into two, in order to prosecute the men* suration, till those gentlemen returned. Accordingly, M. Bouguer, at the head of one detatchment, went to the signal of Senegualap, and M. de la Condamine and myself repaired to that of Chusay. But M. Godia and Don George Juan joining us there, we returned to our proper company, and the operations were continued in the order agreed on.

XXI. Signal on the desert of Sinasaguan.

This desert was one of those common to both companies j and that of Don George Juan retrained on it till the 29th of May, when the observations of both were finished. Thus every member of the two com* panics equally shared in the fatigues of the operations, #ndin the hardships ijnavoidable in such dreary regions,

XXII. Signal on the desert of Quinoaloma.,

The desert of Quinoaloma, like the former, may be classed among ths most disagreeable stations in the whole series; for though they repaired hither fronvSi-nasaguan,it wastfie3istof thesamen>onth before they could finish the observations relating to this signal.

In their road from Quinoaloma they passed through thg towjiof Azoguesj where leaving their instruments

an^

Ch. in. . SOUTH AMERICA, 247

and baggage, they went to Cuen$a, to survey the plains of Talqui and los Bannos, in order to make choice of one ofthem for measuring the base; and havingpitch-ed on the latter, and consulted with us relating to the signals wanting, they returned to the town of Azogues.

XXIH. Signal on thedesert of Yasuay.

On the 15th of June they proceeded to the desert of Yasuay, and continued there till the nth of July; when, having finished their otpservations, they returned to Cuen9a, where they employed themselves in measuring the base on the plain of los Bannos, an^ in beginning the astronomical observations. This they pro-secuted with incessant diligence till the 10th of December following, when, in order to continue them with the greater precision and certainty, a pew instrument became necessary, and for this purpose they repaired to Quito,

XXIV, XXV. XXVI. XXVII. Signals of Nama-relte, Guanacauri, los Bannos, and the tower of the great church of Cue^a,

Whilst they were making the astronomical observations at Cuen9a, they also, by unwearied diligence, finished those relating to the geometrical mensuration at the four stations of Namarelte, Guanacauri,los B^n-nos, and the tower of the great church of Cuep9a. The first three stations were to connect the base (which reached from Guanacauri to losBannos) with the series of triangles; and the last served for the observatory jointly with the base. The observations at all these were completely finished at this time; for though the next year we found it necessary to go toCuen^a to repeat the astronomical observations, yet all dig opera-* tions relating to the geometrical mensurations were. ^cunucly finished at this time,

R4 JQLVUl'

248 A VOYAGE TO Book T,

XXVIIL XXDt. XXX. XXXI. XXXII. Signals on the mountains of Guapulo, Pambamarca, Cam-panario, Cuicocha, and Mira,

In the year 1744, when we returned to the province of Quito, in order to conclude the whole work, having conquered the difficulties which obliged us to intermit the astronomical observations, as we have already observed, Don George Juan added six stations to the series of triangles, there being a necessity for repeating the observations of Guapulo and Pambamarca, in order to extend the series of triangles farther to the northward, and of his repairing again to the mountains of £ampanario and Cuicocha. Here, and at Pambamarca, he was obliged to remain amidst all the jnconveniencies and hardships of those dreadful rer gions, till he had completed the necessary observations $ all which he bore with, great magnanimity; but at those of Guapulo and Mira, which served to connect the observatory, those inconveniencies were avoided; but as the obseryatipns $t the last station were jointly performed by both companies, the parT ticularsofthem have been already mentioned.

CHAP. IV.

Description of the City of Quito.

AS in the preceding descriptionsof the several cities and towns, I have not swelled the accounts with chronological and historical remarks, I shall observe the same method with regard to Quito, and only give an accurate account of the present state of this country, the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and the situation of the several places 5 that such as know thenvonly by name, may avoid those dangerous errors >vhich too often result from forming a judgment pf things without a thorough knowledge of tfyem. It

"" ^ "'' '" ms

Ch. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. U9

may not, however, be amiss to premise, that this province was subjected to the empire of Peru, \>y Tu-pac-Inga-Yupahqui, the eleventh Ynea.

Garcilaso, in his history of the Yncas of Peru, the best guide we can follow on this subject, observes, that this conquest was made by the army of that emperor, commanded by his eldest son Hueyna-Capac, who also succeeded him in the empire. Hueyna-Capac, among other natural children, had ojie called Ata-Hu* alpa, by a daughter of the last king ofQuito; and being extremely fond of him, on account of ins many arnia** ble qualities and accomplishments, in order to procure * Kim an honourable settlement, prevailed on his legitimate and eldest son Huascar to allow him to hold the kingdom of Quito as a fief of the empire; it being an invariable law, that all conquests were to be perpetually annexed to the empire, and not alienated from it on any account whatever. Thus Hueyna^ Capac enjoyed the satisfaction of seeing his favourite a sovereign of large dominions. But on the death x of his father, this prince, of whom such great hopes had been conceived, ungratefully rebelled, seized on the empire, imprisoned his brother, and soon after put him to a violent death. . His prosperity was, however, but of short continuance; for he suffered the same fate by order of Don Francisco Pizarro, who had sent Sebastian de Belalcazar to make a conquest of the kingdom of Quito. He routed the Indians wherever they ventured to face him; and having soon, by a series of victories, made himself master of the kingdom, and in the year 1534 rebuilt- the ca* pital, which had suffered extremely from intestine commotions, called it San Francisco de' Quito, a name it still retains, though it was not till seven years after that the title of city was conferred upon it.

We found from accurate observations, that the city of Quito is situated in the latitude of o deg. 13. min. 33. sec. south, and in 298 deg;. j £ minf 45. sec. of

longitude

aSo A VOYAGE TO BookV,

longitude from the meridian of Teneriff. It stands in the inland parts of the continent of South America, and on the eastern skirts of the west Cordillera of the Andes. Its distance from the coast of the South Sea is about 3$ leagues west. Contiguous to it, on the north-west, is the mountain and desert of Pichin cha, not less»famous among strangers for its great height, than among the natives for the great riches it ' has been imagined to contain ever since the times of idolatry ;. and this only from a vague and unsupported tradition. The city is built on the acclivity of that mountain, and surrounded by others of a middling height, among the breaches, or guaycos, as they are called here, which form the eminences of Pichincha. Some of these breaches are or a considerable depth, and run quite through it, so that great part of the buildings stand upon arches. This renders the streets irregular and extremely uneven, some being built on the ascents, descents, and summits of the breaches. This city, with regard to magnitude, may be compared to one of the second order in Europe i but the' tinevenness of its situation is a great disadvantage to its appearance.

Near it are two spacious plains; one on the south called Turu-bamba, three leagues in length; and the other on the north, termed Inna-Quito, about two leagues in extent. Both are interspersed with seats and cultivated lands, which greatly add to the prospect from the city,"being continually covered with a lively Verdure, and the neighbouring plains and hills always enamelled with flowers, there being here a perpetual spring. This scene is beautifully diversified with large pumbers of cattle feeding on the eminences, though the luxuriancy of the soil is such, that they cannot consume all the herbage. v

These two plains contract as they approach the city, andvat their junction form a neck of land, covered with those eminences on which part of Quito

Sttjidg,

Ch. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 251

stands* It may, perhaps, appear strange,that, notwithstanding two such beautiful aud extensive plains are so near the city, a situation so very inconvenientshould be preferred to either. But the first founders seem to have had less regard for convenience and beauty, than for preserving the remembrance of their conquest, by building on the site of the ancient capital of the Indians, who made choice of such places for erecting their towns; probably from their being better adapted to defence. Besides, the Spaniards, during the infancy of their conquest,little imagined this place would ever incrq^se to its present magnitude. Quito, however, was-formerly in a much more flourishing condition than at present; the number of its inhabitants being considerably decreased, particularly the Indians, whole streets of whose huts are now forsaken, and in ruins.

South-west from Quito, on the neck of land belonging to the plain of Turu-bamba, is an eminence called Panecillo, or the Littie Loaf, from its figure resembling a sugai*loaf. Its height is not above a hundred tpises, and between it and the mountains covering the east part of the city is a very narrow road. From the south and west sides of the Panecillo issue several streams of excellent water; and from the eminences of Pi^hincha several brooks flow down the breaches, and by means of conduits and pipes pi^nd* fully supply the whole city with water; whilst the re-, jnainder, joining in one stream, forms a river called Machangara, which washes the south parts of the city, and is crossed over by-a stone bridge.

Pichincha, in the Pagan times, was a volcano,and even some fiery eruptions have been known since the conquest. The mouth, or aperture, was in a pic nearly of the same height with that on which we took our 6tation; and the top of it is now covered with sancj gnd calcined matter. At present no fire is ejected, nor does there any smoke issue from it. Bit some, ftraes the inhabitants are alarmed by dreadful n< ises,

caused

252 A VOYAGE TO Book V.

caused by winds confined in its bowels^ which cannot fail of recalling to their minds the terrible destruction formerly caused by its eructations, when the whole city and neighbouring country were often, as it were, buried under a deluge of ashes, and the light of the sun totally intercepted, for three or four days successively, by impenetrable clouds of dust. In the centre of the plain oflnho-Quito is a place called Rumi-bamba, i. e. a srony plain, being full of large fragments of rocks thrown thither by the ejections of the mountain. We have already observed, that the highest part of Pichincha is covered with ice and snowr considerable quantities of which are brought down to the city, and mixed with the liquors drunk by people of fashion.

The principal square in Qnito has four sides, in one of which stands the cathedra), and in the opposite the episcopal palace; the third side is taken up by the town house, and the fourth by the palace of the audi* ence. It is very spacious, and has in the centre an elegant fountain. It is indeed rather disfigured than adorned by the palace of the audience -, which instead of being kept in repair conformable to the dignity of government, the greatest part of it has been suffered to fall into ruins, and only a few halls flndoffices taken any care of; so that even the outward walls continually threaten to demolish the parts now standing, T*he four streets terminatingat the angles of thesquare are straight, broad, and handsome; but at the distance pf three or four quadras(or the distancebetween every two corners, or stacks of building, and which here consists of about a hundred yards, more or less) be» gin the troublesome declivities. This inequality deprives the inhabitants of the use of coaches, or any other wheel-carriage. Persons of fank, however, to distinguish themselves, are attended by a servant car. lying a large umbrella: and ladies of the first quality pre curried ip sedans. Except the four streets above

%

Ch. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. a5$

mentioned* all the rest are crooked, and destitute both of symmetry and order. Some of them are crossed by breaches, and the houses stand on the sides^of their winding course and irregular projections. Thus somepart£ of the city are situatedat thebottpm of those breaches while others stand on their summits. The principal streets are paved ; but those which are not, are almost impassable after rain, which is here very common.

Besides the principal square, there are two others very spacious, together with several that are smaller. In these the greatest part of the convents are situated, and make a handsome appearance ; the fronts and portals being adorned with all the embellishments of architecture* particularly the convent of the order of Franciscans, which, being wholly of free-stone, must have cost a prodigious sum; and indeed the justness of the proportions, the disposition of the parts, the elegant taste and execution of the work, render ic equal to most of the admired buildings in Europe.

The principal houses are large; some of them have spacious and well-contrived apartments, though none are above one story in height, which is seldom without a balcony toward the street; but their doors and windows, particularly those within, are very low and narrow, following in these particulars the old custom of the Indians, who constantly built their houses among breaches and inequalities, and were also careful to make the doors very narrow. The Spaniards plead in defence of this custom, that the apartments are freer from wind; but be that as it may, I am inclined to think that this peculiarity owed its origin to a blind imitation of the Indians.

The materials made use of in building at Quito are adobes, or unburnt bricks, and clay ; and to the making of the former the earth is so well adapted, that they last a long time, provided they are defended from the rain. They are cemented or joined together Joy a certain substance called sangagua, a species of mortar

a54 A VOYAGE TO Boo* V.

far of uncommon hardness, used by the ancient Indians for building houses and walls of all kinds, several remains being stilt to be seen near the city, and in many other parts of the kingdom, notwithstanding the remarkable inclemency of the weather * a su£ ficient proof of ite strength and duration.

The city is divided into seven parishes, the Segra-rio, {Plate II.) St. Sebastian, St Barbaria, St.Roque, St. Mark, St. Prisca, and St. Blaize. The cathedral, besides the richness of its furniture, is splendidly adorned with tapestry hangings and other costly-decorations; but in this respect theother parish-churches are so mean as to have scarce necessaries for per-' forming divine worship. Some of them are without pavement, and with every other mark of poverty. The chapel del Sagrario is very large, wholly of stone, and its architecture executed in an elegant taste; nor is the disposition of the inside inferior to the beauty of its external appearance.

The convents of monks in Quito are those of the Augustines, Dominicans, and the Fathers of mercy $ which are the heads of provinces ; but besides these there is another of Franciscan recollects, another of Do minicahs, and another of the Fathers of mercy. In this city is also a college of Jesuits : two colleges for seculars ; one called St. Lewis, of which the Jesuits have the direction; and the'other St. Ferdinand, and is under the care of the Dominicans. In the first are twelve royal exhibitions for the sons( of auditors and other officers of the crown. It is also an university under the patronage of St. Gregory. That of the second is a royal foundation, and dedicated to St* Thomas ; the salaries of the professors are paid by the crown. Some cf the chairs in this college are iilled by graduates, as those apropriated to the canon and civil law, and physic; but the latter has been long vacantfor want of a professor, though the degrees would be dispensed with. The Franciscan convent

Ch. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 255

has a college, called San Buena Ventura, for the religious of its order; and, though under the same roof with the convent, has a different government and ceconomy*.

Quito has also several nunneries; as that of the Conception, the orders of St. Clare, St. Catharine, and two of bare-footed Theresians. Of these one was originally founded in the town of Latacunga; but having, together with the place itself, been destroyed by an earthquake, the nuns removed to Quito, where they have ever since continued.

The college of Jesuits, as well as all the convents

' of monks, are very large, well built, and very splendid. The churches also, though the architecture of some is not modern, are spacious, and magnificently decorated, especially on solemn festivals, when it

-is amazing -to behold the vast quantities of wrought plate, rich hangings, and costly ornaments, which heighten the solemnity of worship, and increase the

"reputation of these churches for magnificence. If those of the nunneries do not, on those occasions, exhibit such an amazing quantity of riches, they exceed them in elegance and delicacy. It is quite otherwise in the parish-churches, where poverty i,s conspicuous, even on the most solemn occasions; though this is partly imputed to those who have the care of them.

Here is also an hospital, with separate wards fojr men and women; and though its revenues are npc large, yet by a proper ceconomy they are made to answer all the necessary expences. It was formerly un-r der the direction of particular persons of the city, who, 10 the great detriment of the poor, neglected their duty, and some even embezzled part of the money received ; but it is now under the care of the order of our Lady of Bethlehem, and by the attention of these fathers, every thing has put on a different aspect, the whole convent and infirmary having been

rebuilt,

r

256 A VOYAGE TO 6ook V,

rebuilt, and a church erected, which, though small,is very beautiful, and finely decorated*

This order of our Lady of Bethlehem has been , lately founded under the name of a congregation, and had its origin in the province of Guatemala. Th6 name of the founder was Pedro de San Joseph Beta-neur, a native of the town of Chasna (or Villa Fuerte) on the island of Teneriff, in the year 1626. After his death, which happened in the year 1667, his congregation was approved of by a bull of Clement X. dated the 16th of May 1672 ; and still more formally in another of 1674. In 1687* Innocent XL erected it into a community of regulars; since when it has be* gun to increase in these countries as a religious order. It had indeed before passed from Guatemala to Mexico, and from thence, in the year 1671, to Lima, where the fathers had the care of the hospital del Carmen. In the city of St. Miguel de Piura, they took possession of the hospital of St. Ann in the year 1678 ; and of that of St. Sebastian in Truxillo in 1680. And their probity and diligence in discharging these trusts, induced other places to select them as directors of their hospitals, and among the rest the city of Quito; where, notwithstanding they have been only a few years, they have repaired ail former abuses, and put the hospital oh a better footing than it had ever known before.

The fathers of this order go bare-footed, and wear a habit of a dark brown colour, nearly resembling that of the capuchins, which order they also imitate in not shaving their beards. On one side of their cloak is an image" of our Lady of Bethlehem. Every sixth year they meet to choose a general, which ceremony is performed alternately at Mexico and Lima,

Among the courts,, whose sessions are held at Quito, the principal is that of the Royal Audience, which was established there in the year 1563, and consists of a president (who is also governor of the province with

regard

Cn.IV. SOfUTHAMEKICA. *57

regard to matters of law), fout auditors, who are at the same time civil and criminal judges, and a royal fiscal, so called, as, besides the causes brought before the audience, he also takes cognizance of every thing .relating to the revenue of the crown. Besides this, there is also another fiscal, called Protector de los ladies, " protector of the Indians/' who solicits for them, and when injured pleads in their defence. The jurisdiction of this court extends to the utmost limits of the province, with no other appeal than to the council of the Indies, and this only in case of a rejection of a petition, or flagrant injustice.

The next is the exchequer, or chamber of finances % the chief officers of which are an accomptant, a treasurer, and a royal fiscal. The revenues paid into the receipt of this court are, the tributes of the Indians of this jurisdiction and those of Otabalo, Villa de San Miguel de Ibara, Latacunga, Chimbo, and Riobamba; and also the taxes levied in those parts, and the produce of the Customs at Babahoyo, Yaquache, and Caracol: which sums are annually distributed, partly to Carthagena and Santa Martha^ for paying the salaries of the presidents, fiscals, corregidors, together with the stipends of thepriests, and the governors of Maynas andQuijos; partly for the officers of theCommandries, and partly tor the Caciques of the villages.

The tribunal de Cruzada, or Croisade, has a commissary, who is generally some dignitary of the church; and a treasurer, who is also the accomptant, through whose hands every thing passes relating to the Croisade.

Here is also a treasury for the effects of persons deceased; an institution long since established all ovfer the Indies, for receiving the goods of those whose lartful heirs were in Spain, that thus they might be secured from those accidents to which, from dishonesty or negligence, they would be liable in private hands, and securely kept for the persons to which they belong: an

Vol, I. ' S institution

?S» A VOYAGE TO Book W

institution originally very excellent; but now greatly abused, great defalcations being made in the ©status before they are restored to their proper owners.

Besides these tribunals, here is a commissary of the inquisition, with an alguazil major, and familiars appointed by the holy bffice at Lima.

The Corporation consists of a corregidor, two or- -flBnary alcaldes chosen annually, and regidores. These superintend the election of the alcaldes, which is at. fended with no small disturbance inthis city, persons of all ranks being divided into the two parries of Creoles and Europeans or Chapitonesr to the gr^at detriment af private repose and sociability. This assembly also nominates the alcalde major of the Indians, who must be a governor of one of the Indian town* within five leagues of the city j and has under him other inferior alcaldes, for the civil government of it. And this alcalde major, together with the others, are little more than the a%uazik, or officers of {he corregidor or ordinary alcaldes of the city; though, at first, they were invested with' much greater power. Besides tshese, here are others, called alcaldes de harrieros, whose business it is to provide mules, &c. for travellers. And though all these are subordinate to the alcalde major, yet he has very little authority over them.

The cathedral chapter consists of the bishop, dean, archdeacon, chanter, treasurer, a doctoral, apeniten* tiary, a magistral, three canons by presentation, four prebends, and two demi-prebends, with the follow* ing revenues. That of the bishop 24,000 dollars 1 the dean 2500 5 the four succeeding dignifies 2000 e&ch; the canons 1500 each; the prebends 600, and the demi-prebends 420. This church was erected into a cathedral in the year 1545 ; and among other festivals are celebrated in it, with amazing magnificence, those of Corpus Christi, and the Conception t£ow Lady, when all the courts, offices^ and per^

sons

Cfi-iVr SOUTH AMERICA. iS$

* sons of eminence, never fail to assist. Btit the singtf^ lar pomp,of the procession of thd hdst in ihH former, and the dances jof thfe Indians, miist riot be omitted. Every Itduse of the streets through ^hich it passes are ad voed with rich hangings; ari4 iuperb triumphal arches are erected, with altafs it stated distances, and higher than the houses, on ^hich, as on1 the triumphal arches, the spectator se^s, wijth admiration, ._ immense quantities of wrought-plate, and jewels, disposed in such an elegant manner as to render the whole even more pleasing than the astonish-' ing quantity of riches. This spkndor, togetheir with the magnificerit dresses of the persons who assist at the procession, render the whole extremely solemn/ and the pomp and decorum are both continued tQ the end of the ceremony, ' - '

r VV.jth regard to the dances, it is a custom, both afmong the parishes of Quito and all those of the mountains^ for the priest, a month before the cetebra-* tion of the feasts, to select a' nuiftber of Indians who" are to be the dancers. These immediately begin to practise the dances they used before their conversion* to Christianity. The music is a pipe and tabor, and the most extraordinary of their motions some awkward capers ; in short, the whole is little to the taste' of an European. Within a few d^ys of the solemnity, they dress themselves in a. doublet, a shirt, and a woman's petticoat, adorned in the finest manner possible. Over their stockings they wear a kind of pinked buskins, on which are fastened a great num-, * ber of bells. Their head and face they cover with a kind of mask, formed of ribbands of several colours. Dressed in this fantastical garb, they proudly call themselves angels, unite in companies of eight or* ten, and spend the whole day in roving abotit the streets, highly delighted with the jingling of their bells; and frequently stop and dance, to gain the applauses of the ignorant multitude, who are strangers . ? S 2 to

afo A VOYAGE TO Book V.

to elegaht dancing. But what is really Surprising, is, that without any pay, or view of interest, unless they think it a religious duty, they continue this ex. ercise a whole fortnight before the grand festival, and 4 month after it, without minding either their labour PF families; rambling about, and dancing the whole 4ay, without being either tired or disgusted, though the number of their admirers daily decrease, andthe applause is turned into ridicule.

Thb same dress is worn hy them in other proces* sjon9,and at the bull-feasts, when they are excused from labour, and therefore highly pleased with them. . The corporation and cathedral chapter keep, by vow, two annual festivals in honour of two images of theVirgin, which are placed in the villages of Guapulo and Quinche, belonging to .this jurisdiction. They are brought with great solemnity to Quito, where a festival is celebrated, with great magnificence and rpjoicing, and is succeeded by nine days devotion, the Audience and other courts assisting at the festival, fhe statues are afterwards returned with the same solemnity to their respective churches^ the first of vhich is one league from Quito, and the other six. These festivals are held in commemoration of the xpercy and assistance vouchsafed by the holy Virgin at the time of an earthquake and terrible ejections from Pichincha, by which Latacunga, Hambato, and a great part of Jtiobamba, were utterly destroyed; while the prayers offered up at Quito to the. hply Virgin induced her to interpose in so singular a manner, that not the least misfortune attenoed this city, though apparently in equal danger with those which suffered.

CHAP.

Ch.V." SOUTH AMERICA. 261

CHAP. V.

Of the Inhabitants of Quito.

THIS city is very populous, and has, among its inhabitants, some farnilies of high rank and-distinctions though (heir number is but small considering its extent, the poorer class bearing here too-great a proportion. The former are the descendants' either of the original conquerors, or of presidents, auditors, or other persons of character, who at dif~* ferent times came over from Spain invested with-some lucrative post, and have still preserved theifi/ lustre, both of wealth and descent, by intertnarr*^ ages, without intermixing with meaner families 1 though famous for their riches.

The commonalty may be divided into four classes r Spaniards or Whites, Mestizo?, Indians or Natives,; and Negroes, with their progeny. These last ars not proportionally so numerous as in the other parts of the Indies; occasioned by it being something inconvenient to bring Negroes to Quito, and the different kinds of agriculture being generally performed . by Indians.

Th* name of Spaniard here has a different mean- , ing from that of Chapitone or European, as properly signifying a person descended from a Spaniard without a mixture of blood. Many Mestizos, from the advantage of a fresh complexion, appear to be Spaniards more than those who are so in reality; and from only this fortuitous advantage are accounted as such. The Whites, according to this construe- , tion of the word, may be considered as one sixth part of the inhabitants.

The Mestizos are the descendants of Spaniards and Indians, and are to be considered here in the same different' degrees between the Negroes and Whites,

S3 as

2^2 AVQYASpJP Bopi^V.

as before at Carthagena; but with this difference, that at Quito the degrees of lV^e§tizos are not carried so far back ; for, even in the second or third generations, when they Require the ^urp^ean colour, they are considered as Spaniards. The* complexion of the Mestizos is swarthy and reddish, but' not fjf tfcat red common in the fair Mulattos. This is the first degree, or the immediate issue of a Spaniard aiid Indian. Some are, however, equally tawny #ith the Indians themselves, though they are distinguished from them by their beards: while other?, on the contrary, have so fine a complexion that thejr might pass for Whites, were it not for some signs which betray them, when viewed attentively. Among those, the mo$t remarkable is the lowness of thafore-head, which often leaves but a-small space betvveea their hair and eye-brows; at the same time the hair grows remarkably forward on the temples, extending to the lower part of the ear. - Besides, che-hair itj-self is harsh, lank, coarse, and very black; their nose very small, thin,, and has a little rising oathe middle, from whence it forms a small curve,* terminating in a point, bending towards the upper lip. These marks, besides some dark spots on the body, are so constant and invariable, as to make it very,diffi-cult'to conceal the fallacy of their complexion. The Mestizos may be reckoned a Vhi,rd part of the inhabitants. < ' The next class is the Indian*, whafo$tn about another third; ^nd the others, who are about one sixth, are'the Casts. These four classes, according, to the most authentic accounts taken from the parish register, amount to between 50, and 60,000 persons, of all ages, sexes, and ranks. If aniQng these classes the Spaniards, as is natural to think, are the most eminent for riches, rank, aftd power, it must at the same time be owned,however-melancholy thetruth ipay appear, they are in proportion' the most poor, miserable

and

Ch. V. SOUTH AMERICA* a6$

and distressed 5 for they refuse to apply themselves to any mechanic business, considering it as a disgrace to , that quality they so highly value themselves upon, which dbnsists in not being black, brown, or of acopi per-colour. The Mestizos, whose pride is regulated by prudence, readily apply themselves to arcs and trades, but chuse those of the greatest repute, as paint-* ihgj sculpture, and the like, leaving the meaner sprt to the Indians. They are observed to excel in all, particu* krly painting and sculpture; in the former a Mestizo* ' catted Miguel de Santiago* acquired great reputation* some of his works being still preserved and highly valued, whUe others were carried even to Rome, Where they were hbnoiited with the Unanimous applauses of the virtuosi. They are remarkably ready and excellent *ar imitation, copying being indeed best adapted to .their phlegmatic genius. And what fen^ ders their exquisite performances still more admirable is, that they are destitute of qjany of the instruments and tools requisite to perform them with any tolerable degree of accuracy. But, with these talents, they are so excessively indolent and slothful, that, instead of working, they often loiter about the streets during the whole day* The Indians, who are generally shoemakers, bricklayers* weavers, and the like, are not more industrious. Of these the most active and tractable are the barbers and phlebotomists, who, in' their respective callings, are equal to the most expert hands in Europe. The shoemakers, on the other hand, distinguish themselves by such supineness and sloth, that very o& ten you have no other way left to obtain the shoes you have bespoke, than to procure materials, seize on the Indian, and lock him up till they are finished. This is indeed partly owing to a wrong custom of paying for the work before it is done; and \yhen the Indian has once got the money, he spends it all in chicha*, s^ that while it lasts he is never sober; and it is natural ♦^ A kind of beer or ale made of maize, and very intoxicating.

S4 tO

*64 . A VOYAGE TO Book V

to think that it will not be easy afterwards to prevail on him to work for what he has spent.

The dress here differs from that used in Spain, but less so with the men than of the women. The former, who wear a black cloak, have under it a long coat, reaching down to their knees, with a close sleeve, open at the sides, without folds; »and along the seams of the body, as well as those of the sleeves, are button-holes, and two rows of buttons, for ornament. In every other particular, people of fortune affect great magnificence in theic dress, wearing very commonly the finest gold and silver..tissues.

The Mestizos in general wear blue cloth> manufactured in this country. And though the lowest class of Spaniards are very ambitious of distinguishing them* selves from them, either by the colour or fashion of the clothes, little difference is to be observed.

The most singulardress, with regard to its meanness, . is that of the Indians, which consists o.ny of ,white cotten drawers, made either from the stuffs of the country, or from others brought from Europe. They come down to the calf of the leg, where they hang loose, and are edged with a lace suitable to the stuff. The use of a shirt is supplied by a black cotton frock, wove by the natives. It is made in the form of a sack, with three openings at the bottom, one in the middle for the head, and the others at the corners for the arms, and thus cover their naked bodies down to the knees. Over this is a capisayo, a kind of serge cloak, having a hole in the middle for putting the head through, and a hat, made by the natives. This is their general dress, and which they never lay aside, not even while they sleep. And use has so inured ihem to the weather, that, without any additional clothing or covering for their legs or feet, th^y travel io the coldest parts with the same readiness as in the ^warmest.

Cn,v. * sotrnr America. t6$

The Indiana who have acquired some fortune, particularly the barbers and phlebotomises, are very , careful to distinguish themselves fr&m their country* men, both by the fineness of their drawers, and also by wearing a shirt, though without sleeves. Round the neek.of the shirt they Wear a lace four or five fingers in breadth,-hanging entirely round like a kind of ruff or band. One favourite piece of finery is silver or gold buckles for their shoes; but they wear n& stockings or other coverings on their legs. Instead erf the mean capisayo, they wear a cloak of fine cloth, and often adorned with gold or silver lace.

The dress of the ladies pf the first rank consists of a petticoat already described in our account of Guayaquil. On the upper parts of their body they wear a shift, <on that a loose jacket laced, and over all a kind of bays, but made into no form, being worn just as cut from the piece. Every part of their dress is, as it were, covered with lace; and those which they wear on days of ceremony are always of the richest stuffs, with a profusion of ornaments. Their hair is generally made up in tresses, which they form into a kind of cross, on the nape of the neck; tying a rich ribband, called balaca, twice round their heads, and with the ends form a kind of rose at their temples. Thesa roses are elegantly intermixed w^th diamonds and flowers. When they go to church, they sometimes wear a full petticoat; but the most usual dress on these oo casions is the veil. . ,

The Mestizo women affect to dress in the same manner as the Spanish, though they cannot equal them in the richness of their stuffe. The meaner sort go barefooted. Two kinds of dresses are worn by the Indian women; but both of them made in the same plaui manner with those worn by the men: the whole consisting of a' short petticoat, and a veil of American bays. The dress of the lowest class of Indian women is in effect only a bag of the same make and stuff as the

frocks

. ?j56 it VOYAGE TO Bo4k V.

frocks of the men, and called ana<so. This they fatten % gn the shoulders with two large pins called tupu, or topow The only.particular in which it defers fr6m the; frock is, that itis>something longer, reaching down ta the calf of the leg, and fastened round the waist with a kind of girdle. - Instead of a veil, they wear about their neck a piece of the same coarse stuff dyecj black, and called Liiella; but their arms and legs aitt wholly naked. Such is the habit with which the low-' cp class of Indian women are contented. -. The. cacique&ses, or Indian women, who are married to the alcaldes, majors, governors, and others,, are careful to distinguish themselves from the common people by their ;babics, which is a mixture &£ the twcj former, being a petticoat of bays adorned with ribbands ,;. over this, instead: of the anaco, they wear a kind of black manteau, called acso. It is wholly opda on one side, plaited from K>p to bottom, and generally fastened round the waist with a ginile. Instead of the scanty Llieila whieh the common* Indian \y©$nen ,wear hanging .from tbeir shoulders, these appear in one much, fuller, and all over plained,, hanging down from die beck part of their head almost c©> th# bott-.torn, of the pecticoat. This* they fasten before with & large silver jDodkin, called also tapn, lika those used in the anaco. Their head-dress is a piece of fine linen curiously plaited, and the end hanging down behind: this they call colla, and is worn both for .distinction and ornament, and to preserve^them foam the heat of the sun j and these- ladres,. that their superiority may not be called in. question, never appear abroad without shoes. This dressy together with, that universally -worn by Indians, men and: women,, is the? tame with, that used in the time of the Yncas,, for the propriety of distinguishing rhe several classes. The Caciques at present use no other than that of the more wealthy Mestizos^ namely,, the cloak and hat j

'C?.V. SQUTH AMERICA. < ^7

hst the $ho$s are what chie% distinguish them frpm the common Indians.

The men, both Creoles and Spaniards,, are well -nwdej qf a proper stature, and of a lively and agree*, able countenance. Th? Mestizos in general are ajfo well made, Qften tajler than the ordinary size, very-rpbust, and have ai} agree^tyej air* The. Indians^ hpth men and women, are g$qeraify low, but well proportioned, $ndyery strong; $ough more, natural de* fepts are to be observed among them than in the other c^sse^ of the human species,: soqie are remarkably v Stftqrtu sorpe idepts, dumb and blind^ and others deficient in some of their Jimbsf.. Their h^ir ,i§ gene^ rally thick and' long^ whicfr ;hey wear Joose on their sjiouiders, never tying or tucking it up, even when they go to sleep. But the Indian women-plait theirs behind with ribband, and the part before they cut a> little above the eye-brows from one ear ta another ;, which fonn of hair they call urcu, and are so fond of this natural ornament, that the greatest affront possible to be offered'to an Indian of either sex, is tp cut off their hair; for whatever cprporal punishment their % masters think proper to inflict oa them, they bear with a dutiful, tranquillity; but this is a disgrace they never forgive; ana accordingly it was found necessary far, the government to interpose, and limit thia punishment to the most enormous crimes. .The colour of their hair is.generaliy a deep black; Jt is lank, harshi and coarse as that of horses. The Mestizos, on the other hand, by way of distinguishing themselves from the Indians, cut off their hair; but the women do not in. this respect follqgy the example of their husbands. The Indians have nQ beard; and the greatest alteration occasioned by tKeiz arriving at the years of maturity, is only a few strag; gl.ing hairs on the chin, but so short and thin as ne* ver to require the assistance of the razor; nor have

either

a68 A VOYAGE TO Booic V/

either males or females any indications of the age of puberty.

The youths of family are here instructed in philosophy and divinity, and* some proceed to the Study of the civil law, but follow that profession with reluctance. In these sciences they demonstrate a. great <feal of judgment and vivacity, but are very deficient in historical and political knowledge, as well as other Sciences, which improve the human understanding, and carry it to a certain degree of perfection not otherwise attainable. This is, however, their misfortune, not their fault; being owing to the want of proper persons to instruct them ; for with regard to those who visit this country on commercial affairs, their minds have generally another turn, and their whole time is devoted to acquire riches. Thus after seven or eight years of scholastic instruction^ th&r knowledge is very limited; though endowed with geniuses capable of making the greatest progress in the sciences.

In the women of rank here, their beauty is blended with a graceful carriage and an amiable temper j " qualities indeed common to the whole se^ in this part of America. Their children are always educated under their own eyes, though little to their advantage, their extreme fondness preventing them from seeing those vices which so often bring youth to ruin and infamy ; nor is it uncommon for them to endeavour to hide the vices of the son from the knowledge of the father; andincaseof detection, to interpose passionately in defence of their favourite, in order to prevent his being properly corrected.

* This country is observed to abound more in women than men; a circumstance the more remarkable, as those causes which in Europe induce men to leave their Country, namely, travelling, commerce, and war, can hardly be said to subsist here. Numbers of families tnay be found in this country, that have a great variety

CK.V. SOUTH AMERICA, . >26g

titty of daughters, but not one son amon£ them. Mature also jn the male sex, especially those who have been tenderly brought up, begin to decay at the age of thirty; whereas the females rather enjoy a more confirmed state of health and vigour. , The cause of this may, in a great measure, be owing to the climate; food may also contribute to it* but the principal causet I make no doubt, is their early intemperance and voluptuousness $ this debilitate^ the stomach, so that the organs of digestion cannot perform their proper office ; and accordingly many constantly eject thfeir victuals an hour or two after their meals. Whether this be owing to a custom now become natural, or forced, the day they fail of such ejection, they are sure to find themselves indisposed. But amidst all their weaknesses and indispositions they live the ge-. neral time, and many even arrive at a very advanced age.

The only employment of persons of rank, who are aot ecclesiastics, is from time to time to visit their estates or chacaras, where they reside during the time of harvest -, but very few of them ever apply themselves to commerce, indolently permitting that lu-crative branch to be possessed entirely by the Chapi-tones or Europeans, who travel abput the country, and pursue their interest with great assiduity. Within t£e city, however, some few Creoles and Mestizos so far overcome their indolent dispositions as to keep shops.

The want of proper employments, together with the sloth so natural to the inhabitants of this country, and the great nog iect of education in the common people, are the natural parents of that fondness so remark* able in these parts for balls and entertainments -, and these at Quito are both very frequent, and qarried to such a degree of licentiousness and audacity, as cannot be thought of without detestation -, not to mention fhje many tumults and quarrels which thence derive

their

*70* A tMAOt 16 BadKV,

their origin. But such bfutality May be considered as the natural consequence of the rum and thicha* whiclv on these occasions are drunk irt enormous quantities. It must, however^ be rertteittbefed, that nO person of any rank or character is ever seen at theSS meetings, their festivity being conducted with the strictest decency and decorum.

Rum is commonly drunk here by^pers&ia <tf all ranks, though very moderately by ihose of fashidn j particularly at entertainments,* when it is made iftto af Kind of cordial. They prefer it to wine, tf hich they say disagrees with them.' The Chapkones also accustom themselves to this liquor; wine, which is brought from Lima, being very scarce and dear. Theif favoiXf-' fte liquor is brandy, brought also from Lima, and is less inftammative than rum. The disorders arising from the excessive Use of spirituous liquors &te Chiefly seen among the Mestizos, who are continually drinking while they are masters of any money. Thtf lower class of womeiv, among the Creoles and Mestizos, are also addicted to the same species of debauchery, and drink excessively.

Another common liquor in thfs country i$the irlate, which answers to tea in the East Indies, though the method of preparing and drinking k is something different. It is made from an herb-, which, in all these parts of America is kno^rvby the name of Paraguay, as being the produce of that country. Soche of it is put into a .calebash tipped with silver, called here mate or totumo, with a sufficient quantity of sugar, and some cold. water, to macerate it. After it has continued in this manner some time, the calebash is filled wkh boiling water, and1 the herb being reduced tx> a powder, they drink the liquor through a pipe fixed in the calebash, and having a strainer before the end of it. In this manner the calebash is filed several times with water and fresh supplies of sugar,- till the herb subsides to the bottom, a sufficient indication

*c*

Ch.V. SOUTH AMERICA. , ' ajt

tion that a fresh quantity is wanting. It is also usual to squeeze into the liquor a few drops of the juice of lemons orSevllle oranges, mixed with some perfumes, from odoriferous flowers. This is their usual drink in the morning fasting, and many use it also as their % evening regale. - I have nothing to object against the salubrity and use of this liquor; but the manner of drinking it is certainly very indelicate, the whole company drinking successively through the samepipe* Thus the mate is carried several times round the com*

{)any, till all are satisfied. The Chapitones make very ittle use of it; but among the Creoles it is the highest * enjoyment; so that even when they travel, they never fail to carrV with them a sufficient quantity of'it. This may indeed be owing in some measure to the dispatch and facility with which it is prepared ; but till they have taken their dose of mate, they never eat.

There is no vice to which idleness is not a prelimfc. nary; nor is sloth ever unaccompanied with some vice or other. What must then be the state of morality in a country where the greatest part of the people have ao work, employment, or calling, to occupy their thoughts; nor any idea of intellectual entertainment ? The prevalence of drunkenness has been already mentioned, and the destructive vice of gaming is equally common. But in the latter, persons of rank and opulence, whose example is always followed, have led the way; and their inferiors have univer-sajly followed in their destructive paths, to the ruin of x families, and the breach of conjugal affection; some losing their stocks in tfade, others thev very clothes from their backs, and afterwards those belonging to their wives, risking the latter to recover their own; Thispropensity in the Indians for gaming has by soma been imputed to causes, in which I can perceive no manner of relation. To me it plainly appears ow«* ing to the leisure of some, who know not how to spend

their

igitized by

n% A VOYAGE TO Book V.

their time, and to the natural sloth and idleness of others. .

The common people and Indians are ,greatly addicted to theft, in which it must be owned they are v6ry artful and dextrous. The domestics also cannot be said to be entirely free,from this fault, which is attended with the inconvenience of reserve and sus* picion on the part of their master. The Mestizos do not want for audacity in any kind of theft or robbery, though in themselves arrant cowards. Thus, even at an unseasonable hour, they will not venture to attack any one in the street; but their common practice is, to snatch off the person's hat, and immediate* Jy seek their safety in tfieir flight 5 sq that before the person robbed can recover himself the thief 4s out of sight. However trifling this may seem, yet sometimes the capture is very considerable; the hats generally worn by persons of any rank, and even by the wealthy citizens when dressed in their cloaks, are of white ,beaver, and of themselves worth 15 or 20 dol-Jars, or more, of theQuito currency, besides a hatband of gold or silver lace, fastened with a gold buckle set with diamonds or emeralds. It is very rare that any such things as a robbery on the highway is heard of; and even these may be rather accounted housebreaking, as they are either committed by the carriers themselves or their servants. In order to execute their most remarkable pieces of villany within the city, they set fire, during the darkness of the night, to the doors of such shops or warehouses, where they flatter themselves with the hoptfs of finding some specie; and havr ing made a hole sufficiently large for a man to creep through, one of them enters the house, while the Others stand before the £ole'to conceal their accomplice, and to deceive what he hands out to them. In order to prevent such practices, the principal traders are at the ex pence of keeping a guard, which patroles all night through the streets where attempts

Ch. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 273

of this kind are most to be apprehended; and thus the shops are secured; for in case any house or shop is broke open, the commander of the guard is obliged to make good the damage received.

Neither the Indians, Mestizos, nor any of thelow-est class of people, think the taking any eatables a robbery ; and the Indians have a particular rule of conduct in their operations, namely, if one of them happens to be in a room where there are several vessels of silver, or other valuable effects, he advances slowly, and with the utmost circumspection, and usually takes only one piece, and that the least valuable, imagining that it will not be so soon missed as if he had taken one of greater price. If detected in the fact, he resolutely denies it, with a yanga, a very.expressive word in his language, and now often used by the Spaniards of this country, signifying that it was done without any necessity, without any profit, withoutany bad intention. It is indeed a word of such extent in discul-pating, that there is no crime to which it is not applicable with regard to the acquittal of the delinquent. If he has not been seen in the very fact,' be the circumstances ever so plain against him, the theft can never be ascertained, no Indian having ever been known to confess.

In Quito, and in all the towns and villages of its province, different dialects are spoken, Spanish being no less common than the Inga. The Creoles, in particular, use the latter equally with the former; but both are considerably adulterated with borrowed words and expressions. The first language generally spoken by children is the Inga ; the nurses being Indians, many of whom do not understands word of Spanish. Thus, the children being first used to the Indian pronunciation, the impression is so strong on their minds, that few can be taught to speak the Spanish language before they are five or six years old; and the corruption adheres so strongly to them, that they"speak

Vol. I, y T a jargon

$74 A VOYAGE TO . Book V

a jargon composed of both; an impropriety which also gains ground among the Europeans, and even persons of rank, when once they begin to understand the language of the country. But what is still more inconvenient, they use improper words f so that a Spaniard himself, not accustomed to their dialect, has often need of an interpreter.

The sumptuous manner of performing the last offices to the dead, mentioned in the description of Carthagena, is frugal and simple, if compared to that used at Quito and all its jurisdiction. Their ostentation is so enormous in this particular, that many families of credit are ruined* by a preposterous emulation of excelling others. The inhabitants may therefore be properly said-to toil, scheme, and endure the greatest labour and fatigue, merely to enable their successors to bury them in a pompous manner. The deceased must have died in very mean circumstances indeed, if all the religious communities, together with the chapter of the cathedral, are not invited to his funeral, and during the procession the bells tolled in all the churches. After the body is committed to the earth, the obsequies are performed in the. same expensive manner, besides the anniversary which is solemnized at the end of the year. Another remarkable instance of their vanity is, never to bury in.their own parish churqh; so that any one seen to be buried in that manner may be concluded to have been of the lowest class, and to have died wretchedly poor. The custom of making an offering either at the obsequies or anniversary, is still observed, and generally consists of wine, bread,, beasts, or fowls, according to the ability or inclination of the survivor.

Though Quito cannot be compared to the other-cities in these parts for riches, yet it is far removed from poverty. It appears from several particulars to have been in a much more flourishing state ; but at present, though it has^ many substantial inhabitants,

yet

Ch. V. ' SOUTH AMERICA. a?j

yet few of them 'are of distinguished wealth, which in gerieral consists in landed estates, applied to several uses, as I shall show in the sequel Here are also no very splendid fortunes raised by trade. Consequently it may be inferred, that the city is neither famous for* riches, nor remarkable for poverty. Here are indeed considerable estates, though their produce is not at all equal to their extent4, but the commerce, though small, is continual. It must also be observed, to die credit of this city, that the more wealthy families have large quantities of plate* which is daily made use of; and indeed, through the several classes, their tables are never destitute of one piece of plate at least.

t

CHAP. VL

Of the Temperature of the Air at ^uito; Distinction between Winter and Summer; Inconveniences, Advantages y and Distempers.

nPO form a right judgment of the happy tern* ** perature of the air of Quito, experience must be made use of, to correct the errors which Would arise from mere speculation > as without that unerring guide, or the information of history, who would imagine, that in the centre of the torrid zone, or rather under the equinoctial, not only the heat is very tolerable, but even, in some parts, the cold painful j and that others enjoy all the delights and advantages of a perpetual spring, their fields being always, covered with verdure, and enamelled with flowers of the most lively colours! The mildness of the climate, free from the extremes of cold and heat, and the constant equality of the nights and days* render a country/pkasartt and fertile, which uninformed reafon v.,.s T a would,

%n6' A VOYAGE TO Book V.

would, from ks situation,conclude to be uninhabitable* nature has here scattered her blessings with so liberal a hand, that this country surpasses those of the temperate zones, where the vicissitudes of winter and summer, and the change from heat to cold, cause the , extremes of both to be more sensibly felt.

. The method taken *by nature to reader this country a delightful habitation, consists in an assemblage of circumstances, of which if any were wanting, it would either be utterly uninhabitable, or subject to the greatest inconveniences. But by this extraordinary assemblage, the effect of the rays of the sun is averted, and the heat of that glorious planet moderated. The principal circumstance in this assemblage is its elevated situation above the surface of the sea $ or, rather, of the whole earth; and thus not only the reflexion of the heat is diminished, but by the elevation of this country, the winds are more subtile, congelation more natural, ind the heat abated. These are suclv natural effects as must doubtless be attributed to its situation; and is the only circumstance from whence such prodigies, of nature, as are observed here, can proceed. In one part are mountains of a stupendous height and magnitude* having their summits covered with snow ; on the other, volcanoes flaming within, while their summits, chasms* and apertures, are involved in ice. The plains are temperate; the breaches and valleys hot j and, lastly, according to the disposition of the country, its high or low situation* we find all the variety of gradations of temperature^ possible to be conceived between the two extremes of heat and cold..

Quito is so happily situated, that neither the heat nor cold is troublesome, though the txtremes of both may be felt in its neighbourhood; a. singularity sufficiently demonstrated by the following thremome* trical experiments. On the 3 tst o£May> 1736, the liquor in the thermometer stood at 1011; at half an hpurj

after

Ch. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. 175

after twelve at noon at 1014: on the first of June at

1 six in the morning at 1011 : and at noon at IOI2-J-. But what renders this equality still more delightful is, that it is constant throughout the whole year, the difference between the seasons being scarce perceptible. Thus the mornings are cool, the remainder of the day warm, and the nights of an agreeable temperature. Hence the reason is plain, why the habitants of Quito make no difference in their dress during the whole year -, some wearing silks or light scuffs, at the flame time others are dressed in garments of substantial cloth j and the former as little incommoded by the cold, as the latter are by heat.

The winds are healthy, and blow continually, but never with any violence. Their usual situations are north and south, though they sometimes shift to other quarters, without any regard to the season of the year. Their incessant permanence, notwithstanding their constant variations, preserves the country from any violent or even disagreeable impressions of the rays of the sun. So that, were it not for some inconveniences to which this country is subject* it might be considered as the most happv spot on the whole earth. But when these disagreeable incidents are considered, all its beauties are buried in obscurity; for here are dreadful and amazing tempests of thunder and lightning, and the still more destructive subterraneous earthquakes, which often surprise the inhabitants in the midst of security. The whole morning, till one or two ih the afternoon, the weather is generally extremely delightful; a bright sun, serene and clear sky, are commonly seen; but afterwards the vapours be-

^gin to rise, the whole atmosphere is covered with black clouds, wftich bring on such dreadful tempests of thunder and lightning, that all the neighbouring mountains tremble, and the city too often feels their dreadful effects. Lastly, the clouds discharge 'themselves in such impetuous torrents of raina that in a very

T3 short

^73 A VOYAGE TO BookV.

short time the streets appear like rivers, and the squares, though situated on a, slope, like lakes. This dreadful scene generally continues till near subset, %vhen the weather clears up, and nature again puts on the beautiful appearance of the morning. Sometimes, indeed, the rains continue all the night, and they have been known to last three or four days successively.

On the other hand, this general course of the weather has its exceptions, three, four, or six, or even eight fine days succeeding each other 5 though, after raining six or eight days in the manner above mentioned, it is rare that any falls during the two or three succeeding. But, from the most judicious observations, Jt may be concluded, tfyat these intervals of fine or foul weather make up only one fifth of the days of the year.

The distinction of winter and summer consists in a very minute difference observable between the one gnd the other. The interval between the month of September, and, April, May, or June, is here called the winter season; and the other months compose the summer. In the former season tbe rain chiefly prevails, and in the second the inhabitants frequently " enjoy intervals of fine weather >, but whenever the rains* are discontinued for above a fortnight, the in* habitants are in the/Utmost consternation, and public prayers are offered up for their return. On the other hand, when they continue any time without intermission, the like fears return, and the churches are again crowded with supplicants for obtaining fine weather. For a long drought here is productive of dangerous distempers 5 *nd a continual rain, without any intervals of sunshine, destroys the fruits of the earth: thus- the inhabitants are under z, continual anxiety. Besides the advantages of the rains for moderating the intense rays of the sun, they are also of the greatest benefit in cleansing $e streets and squares

Ch/VL SOUTH AMERICA. 279

of the eity, which, by the filthiness of the common people at all houts, are every where full of ordure.

Earthquakes cannot be accounted a less terrible circumstance.than any of the former; and if not so frequent as in other cities of these parts, they are far from being uncommon, and often very violent. While t we continued in this city arid its jurisdiction, I particularly remember two, when several country-seats and farm-houses were thrown down, and the greater part of the numerous inhabitants buried in ruins.

It is doubtless to some unknown quality of the temperature of the air, that the city owes one remarkable convenience, which cannot fail of greatly recommending it 5 namely, being totally freeYrom moschitos or other insects of that kind, which almost render life a burthen in hot countries. They are not known to the inhabitants; even a flea is seldom seen here -, nor are the people molested with venomous reptiles. In short, the only troublesome insect is the pique or nigua, whose noxious effects have been already treated of.

Thovgh the plague or pestilence, in its proper §ense, be not known here, no instance of its ravages having appeared in any part of America, yet there are some distempers which have many symptoms of it, but concealed under the names of malignant spotted fevers and pleurisies; and these generally sweep away such'prodigious numbers, that, when they prevail, the city may with propriety be said to be visited with a pestilential contagion. Another disease common here is that called mal del valle, or vicho; a distemper so general, that, at the first attack of any ma^ lady, they make use of medicines adapted to the cure of it, from its usually seizing a person two or three days after a fever. But M. de Jussieu often observed, that the remedies were generally administered to persons not at all affected by the distemper, which, in his opinion, is a gangrene in the rectum; a disease

T 4 very

*8o . A VOYAGE TO Book V.

very common in that climate, andxonsequently at the first attack all means should be used to prevent its progress. Persons who labour under a flux are most liable to that malady; but the inhabitants of this country being firmly persuaded that there can be no distemper that is not accompanied with the vicho, the cure is never delayed. The operation must be attended with no small pain, as a pessary, composed of gun-powder, guinea-pepper, and a leipon peeled, is insinuated into the anus, and changed two or three times a day, till the patient is judged to be out of danger.

The venereal disease is here so common, that few persons are free from it, though its effects are much more violent in some than in others; and many are afflicted with it, without any of its external symptoms. Even little children, incapable by their age of having contracted it actively, have been known to be attacked in the same manner by it as persons who have acquired it by their debauchery. Accordingly there is no reason for caution in concealing this distemper, its commonness effacing the disgrace that in other countries attends it. The principal cause of its prevalence isf negligence in, the cure. For the climate favours the operations of the medicines, and the natural temperature of the air checks the malignity of the virus more than in other countries. And hence few,are salivated for it, or will undergo the trouble of a radical cure. This disease must naturally be thought in some measure to shorten their lives ; though it is not uncommon to see persons live seventy years or more, without ever having been entirely free from that distemper, either hereditary, or contracted in their early yoytfa. *

During the cpntinuance of the north and north-east winds, which are the coldest frpm passing over the frosty deserts, the inhabitants are afflicted with very painful catarrhs, called pechugueras. The air is then

some-

Ch. VI. SOUTH AMERICA. *8i

something disagreeable, the mornings being so cold as to require warmer clothing; but the sun soon disperses this inconvenience.

As the pestilence, whose ravages among the human species in Europe, and other parts, are so dreadful, is Unknown both at Quito ^nd throughout all America, so is also the madness in dogs. And though they have some idea of the pestilence, and call those diseases similar in their effects by that name, they are entirely-ignorant of the canine madness j and express their astonishment when ait European relates the melancholy effects of it. Those inhabitants, on the other hand, ai;e here subject to a distemper unknown in Europe, and may be compared to the smail-pox, which few or none escape; but having once got through it^ they have nothing more to apprehend from that quarter. This distemper is one of those catted pestej and its symptoms are convulsions in every part of the body, a continual endeavour to bite, delirium, vomiting blood; and those whose constitutions are not capable of supporting the conflicts of the distemper, perish. Bat this is not peculiar to Quito, being equally common throughout all South America.

CHAP. VIL

Fertility of the Territories of ghtito, arid the cowman Food of its Inhabitants.

THOUGH an account of the fruits should naturally succeed that of the climate, I determined, on account of their variety, and their being different in different parts, to defer a circumstantial description, till I come to treat more particularly of each of the jurisdictions. So that I shall here only take a transient view of the perennial beauty and pleasantness of the country 5 which has hardly its equal in any

part

a»2 . A VOYAGE TO Book V.

part of the known world : the equability of its air ex. empts it from any sensible changes, whereby the plants, corn, and trees, are stripped of their verdure and or* , ^laments, their vegetative powers checked, and themselves reduced to a torpid inactivity. The fertility of this country, if fully described, would appear to many incredible, did net the consideration of the equality and benignity of the climate inforce its probability. For both the degrees of cold and heat are here so happily determined, that the moisture continues, and the earth seldom fails of being cherished by the fertilizing beams of the sun, some part of every day; and therefore it is no wonder that this country should enjoy a greater degree of fertility than tliose where the same causes do not concur -, especially if we consider, that there is no sensible difference throughout the year j so that the fruits and beauties of the several seasons are here seen at the same time. The curious European observes, with a pleasing admiration, that whilst some herbs of the field are fading, others of the same kind are springing up $ and whilst some flowers are losing their beauty, others are blowing, to continue the enameled prospect. When the fruits have obtained their maturity, and the leaves begin to change their colour, fresh leaves, blossoms, and fruits, are seen in their proper gradations on the same tree.

The same fncessant fertility is conspicuous in the corn, both reaping and sowing being carried on at the same time. That corn which has been recently sown is coming up; that which has been longer sown is in its blade, and the more advanced begins to blossom. $o that the declivities of the neighbouring hills exhibit all the beauties of the four seasons at one single view.

Though all this isgenerally seen, yet there iaa settled time for the grand harvest. But sometimes the most favourable i^son for sowing in one place, is 3 month

or

Ch. Vn. SOUTH AMERICA, 283

or two after that of another, though their distance is not more than three or four leagues; and the time for another at the same distance not then arrived, Thu^ in different spots, sometimes in one and the same, sowing and reaping are performed throughout the whole year, the forwardness or retardment naturally arising from the different situations, as mountains, rising grounds, plains, valleys, and breaches; and the temperature being different in each of these, the times for performing the several operations of husbandry must also differ. Nor is -this any contradiction to what I h^ve before advanced, as will be seen in the following account of the jurisdiction.

This remarkable fecundity of the soil is naturally productive of excellent fruits and corn of every kind, as is evident from the delicacy of th$ beef, veal, mutton, pork, and poultry of Quito. Here is also wheat bread in Sufficient plenty -, but the fault is, that the Indian women, whose business it is to make it, are ignorant of the best methods both of kneading and baking it* for the wheat of itself is excellent, and the bread baked in private houses equal to any in the known world. The beef, which is not inferior to that of Europe, is sold in the markets by the quarter of the hundred for four rials of that country money, and the buyer has the liberty of choosing what pari ~ he pleases, Mutton is sold either by the half or quarter of a sheep -, and when fat, and in its prime, the whole carcase is worth about five or six rials. Other species of provisions are sold by the lump, without weight or measure, and the price regulated by custom.

The only commodity of which there is here any scarcity is pulse; but this deficiency is supplied by roots, the principal of which are the caraates, aruca* chas, yucas, ocas, and papas; the-three former arc the natives of hot countries, and cultivated in the plan* Jatjons of sugar canes, and such "spots are called yal-

234 A VOYAGE TO Book V.

les, or yungas, though these names have different senses, the former signifying plains in a bottom, and the latter those on the sides of the Cordillera; but both in a hotter exposure. In these-are produced the plantains, guincos, guinea-pepper, chirimogas, aguaca-tes, granadillas, pinas, guayabas, and others natural to such climates, as 1 have already observed in other countries. The colder parts produce pears, peaches, nectarines, quaitambos, aurimelos, apricots, melons, and water-melons* the last have a particular season, but the others abound equally throughout the whole year. The parts which cannot be denominated ekher hot or cold, produce frutillas, or Peru strawberries, and apples. The succulent fruits, which require a warm climate, arein greatplenty throughout the whole year, as China and Seville orangesi citrons, lemons, limes, cidras, and toronjas. These trees are full of blossoms and fruit all the year round, equally with those which are natives of this climate. These fruits abundantly supply the tables of the inhabitants, where they are always the first served up, and the last taken away. Besides the beautiful contrast they form with the other dishes, they are also used for increasing the pleasure of the palate, it being a custom among the people of rank here, to eat them alternately with their other food, of which there is always a great variety.

The chirimoyas, aguacates, guabas, granadillas, and Peruvian strawberries, being fruits of which, as well as of the ocos and papas, I have not yet given any description, I shall here give the reader a brief account of them. The chirimoya is universally allowed to be the most delicious of any known fruit either of India or Europe. Its dimensions are various, being from one to five inches in diameter. Its figure is imperfectly round, being flatted towards the stalk; where it forms a kind -of navel s but all the other parts nearly circular. It is covered with a thin soft shell, but adhering so elbsely to tlje pulp, as not to be

4 separated

Ch. VIL SOUTH AMERICA. 285

separated without a knife. The outward coat, during its growth, is of a dark green, but on attaining its full maturity becomes somewhat lighter. This coat 16 variegated with prominent veins, forming a kind of aet-work all over it. The pulp is whjte, intermixed with several almost imperceptible fibres, concentring in the core, which extends from the hollow of the excrescence to the opposite side. As they have their origin- near the former, so in that part they ^re larger animore distinct. The flesh contains a large quantity of juice resembling honey, and its taste sweet mixed with a gentle acid, but of a most exquisite flavour. The seeds are formed in several parts of the flesh, and are about seven lines in length, and three or four in breadth. They are also somewhat flat, and situated* longitudinally.

The tree is high and tufted, the stem large and round, but with some inequalities 5 full of elliptic leaves, terminating in a point. The length is about three inches and a half, and the breadth two or two %»d a half. But what is very remarkable in this tree is, that it eyery year sheds and renews its leaves. The blossom, in which is the embryo of the fruit, differs very little from the leaves in colour, which is a darkish green$ but when arrived to its full maturity is of a yellowish green. It resembles a caper in figure, but something larger, and composed of four petals. It is far from being beautiful; but this deficiency is abundantly supplied by its incomparable fragrancy. This tree is observed to be very parsimonious in its blossoms, producing only such as would ripen into fruits,, did not the extravagant passion of the ladies, for the excellence of the odour, induce them topur^ qhase the blossoms at any rate.

The aguacate, which in Lima and other parts of Peru is known by the antient Indian name plata, may also be classed among the choicest fruits of this country. Its figure in some measure resembles the calabashes

m A VOYAGE TO Boo* V/

labashes of which sroiffcboxes are made; that is, the lower part is round, and tapers away gradually towards the stalk; from whence to its base the length is usually between three and five inches, It is covered with a very thin, glossy, smooth shell, which, when the fruit is thoroughly ripe,Js detached from the pulp* The colour, both during, its growth and when arrived at perfection, is green, but turns something paler as it ripens ; the pulp is solid, but yields to the pressure of the finger; the colour white, tinged with green, and the taste so insipid as to require salt to give it an agreeable relish. It is fibrous, but some more so than other?. The stone of this fruit is two inches long, one and a half in thickness, and terminates irt a point. The taste is sour. It may be opened with a knife, and consists of two lobes, between which may be distinctly perceived the germ of the tree. Within the shell is a very thin tegunjent, which separates it from the pulp, though sometimes the tegument adheres to the pulp, and at other times to the shell* The tree is lofty and full of branches; the leaf, bocll in dimension and figure, something different from that of the chirimoyo.

In the province of Quito they give the name of 4 guabas to a frdit, which, in all the other parts of Peru, is called by its Indian name pacaes. It consists of a pod like that of ,the algarobo, a little flat on both sides. Its usual length is about a foot, though there are different sizes, some larger and some smaller, ac- % cording to the country where they grow. Its outward colour is a dark green, and covered with a down, which feels smooth when stroked downwards, and rough when the hand is moved in the contrary (direction, as in velvet. The pod, opened longitudinally, is found divided into several cells, each containing a certain spongy medulla, very light, and equal to cotton in whiteness. In this are inclosed some black seeds of a very disproportionate size, the- medulla*' " . '* whose

Ch. VII. SOUTH AMERICA. 287

whose juice is sweet and cooling, not being aboVe a line and a half in thickness round each seed.

The granadilla resembles a hen's egg in shape, but larger. The outside of the shell is smooth and glossy, and of a faint carnation colour, and the inside white and soft* It is about a line and a half in thickness, and pretty hard. This shell contains a viscous and liquid substance, full of very small and delicate grains less hard than those of the pomegranate. This me* dullary substance is separated from the shell, by an extreme fipe and transparent membrane. This fruit is of a delightful sweetness, blended with acidity, very cordial and refreshing, and so wholesome that there is no danger in indulging the appetite. The two former are also of the same innocent quality. The granadilla is not the produce of a tree, but of a plant, the blossom of which resembles the passion-flower *, and of a most delicate fragrance. But we must observe a remarkable singularity in the fruits of this country, namely, that they do not ripen on the trees, like those of Europe, but must be gathered and kept some time 5 for if suffered to hang on the trees they would decay.

The last of the fruits I shall mention is the frutilla, or Peru strawberry, very different from that of Europe in size; for though generally not above ananch in length, and two thirds of an inch in thickness, they are mucji larger in other parts of Peru. Their taste, though juicy and not unpalatable, is not equal to those of Europe. The whole difference between the plant and that known in Spain consists in its leaves being somewhat larger.

The papas are natives of a cold climate; and being common in several parts of Europe, where they are known by the name of potatoes, all I shall say of

* This is the identical passion flower, which in England never bears any fruit, the climate being too cold. A.

them

t

tin A VOYAGE TO Book V.

them is, that they are a favourite food with the inhabitants of these countries, who eat them instead of bread, nor is there a made dish or ragout in which they are not an ingredient. The Creoles prefer them vto any kind of meat, or even fowl. A particular dish is made of them, and served up at the best tables, called locro ; and is always the last, that water may be drunk after it, which they look upon as otherwise unwholesome. This root is the chief food of the lower class; and they find it so nutritive and strengthening, that they are not desirous of more solid food.

' The oca is a root about two or three inches in length, and about half an inch, or something more, in thickness, though not every where equal, having a kind of knots where they twist and wreathe themselves. This root is covered with a very thin and transparent skin, whose colour is in some yellow, in some red, and others orange. It is eaten either boiled or roasted, and has nearly the same taste as a chesnut j with this difference, however, common to all the fruits of America, that the sweetness predominates. It is both pickled and preserved, the latter being what the Americans are very fond of. This root is also an ingredient in many made dishes. The plant is small, like the camote, yucas, and others already described. /

With regard to the corn of this country, there is no necessity for enumerating the species, they being the same with those known in Spain. The maize and barley are used by the poor people, and particularly by the Indians, in making bread. They have several methods of preparing the maize; one is by parching, which they call camea. They also make from this grain a drink called chica, used by the Indians in the tixaes of the Yncas, and still very common. The method of making it is this: they steep the maize in water till it begins to sprout, when they spread it4n the sun, where ir is thoroughly dried; after which

Ch. VII; SOUTH AMERICA. 289

they roast and grind it, and of the flour they make a decoction of what strength they please. It is then put into jars or casks, with a proportional quantity of water. On the second or third day it begins to ferment, and when that is completed, which is in two or three days more, they esteem it fit for drinking. It is reckoned very cooling; and that it is inebriating, is sufficiently evident from the Indians: those people have indeed so little government of themselves, that they never give over till they have emptied the cask. Its taste is not unlike cider; but seems in some measure to require the dispatch of the Indians, turning sour in seven or eight days after the fermentation is completed. Besides its supposed quality of being cooling, it is, among other medical properties, confessedly diuretic; and to the use or this liquor the Indians are supposed to be indebted for their being strangers to the strangury or gravel. It is also not surprising that those people who drink it, without any other food than cancha, mote, and muchea, are, with the help of this liquor, healthy, strong, and robust.

Maize boiled till the grains begin to split, when it is called mote, serves for fbod to the Indians, the poor people, and servants in families, who being habituated to it, prefer it to bread. . Maize, before it is ripe called chogllos, is sold in the ear, and among the poorer sort of inhabitants esteemed a great dainty.

Besides the grains of the same species with those in Spain, this country has one peculiar to itself, and very well deserving to be ranked among the most palatable foods i but still more valuable for its being one of the preservatives against all kinds of abscesses and imposthumes. This useful species of grain, here called quinoa, resembles a lentil in shape, but much less, and very white. When boiled it opens,^nd ou; of it comes a spiral fibre, which appears like a small

Vol. J. U worm,

*9o A VOYAGE TO Sock V.

worm, but whiter than the husk of tfce grain, ft U an annual plant, being sowed and reaped every year. The stem is about three or four feet in height, and has a large pointed leaf, something like that of th# malloro; the flower is of a deep red, and five or sin inches in length, and in it are contained the graiite or seed. Jhe quinoa is eaten boiled like rice, and has a very pleasant taste; and the water in which it has been boiled, is often used as an apozem. The quinoa is used in external applications, in order td which it is ground and boiled to a proper consistence * and applied to the part affected, frorft which it soon extracts all corrupt humours occasioned by a contusion.

Besides domestic animals, here are great nurftbera of rabbits caught on the deserts. The partridges ate not very plenty, and rather resemble a quail than those of Europe. Turtle-doves abound here, greatly owing to the indolence of the inhabitants in not endeavouring to take them. ,

But one of the principal foods used by the inhabitants is cheese, of which it is computed that the quantity annually confumed amounts to between 70 and 80 thousand dollars of that ^country money. It is used in Various manners, and is the chief ingredient in many dishes. The neighbourhood of Quito also affords excellent butter, and of which there is a great consumption, but falls far short of that of cheese.

The fondness of these people for sweetmeats exceeds every thing I have ever mentioned of other countries; and this necessarily occasions a great consumption of sugar and honiey. One method of indulging this appetite is, to squeeze the juice out of the sugar canes,, let it settle, and curdle it, but of which they make small cakes, which they call raspa-duras. This is so highly valued by the lowclr 'class;, that with a slice of it, and another of bread and'cheese> they make as hearty a mea| as the rich with, all their

w variety

Cn. VUi SOUTH AMERICA. a9l

variety of dishes. Thus it appears, that if there be some difference between the foods used here and those of Spain* the difference in their preparing them is still greater.

CHAP. VIII.

Oftht Commerce of the Province of Quito.

PilOM the two preceding chapters, a sufficient judgment may be formed of the products and manufactures in the province of Quito, which are the sources of its commerce. The persons who are the chief conductors of this commerce, are the Europeans or Chapitones; some settled here, and others coming occasionally. The latter purchase the country goods, and sell those of Europe. The manufactures of this fj>rotlfl€% as we have already noticed, are only cottons, some white called tucuyos, and others striped bays and cloths, which meet with a good market at Lima for supplying all the inward provinces of Peru. The returns are made partly in silver, partly in gold^and silver thread fringes made in that city; wine, brandy, oil, copper, tin, lead, and quicksilver. The masters of the manufactures either sell their goods to the traders, or employ them as their factors.

On the arrjyaLof the galleons *r Carthage^j the traders resprt thither either by the way of Popayan. or that of Santa Fc, to purchase European jgoods, which, at their rSftirn, they cOrTsTgn to tfieir^orrespondents all over the province.

The pioducts of thejcarth are chiefly consumed within the province, except the wheat produced in the jurisdiction of Riobamba and Chimbo, part of which are sent to Guayaquil. But this is a trade carried on ^ only byj^egtizos and poor people. It wouIcTindeed ( "admit ofgreat improvements/were not the freights so (

U 2 excessively

i92 A VOYAGE TO* Book V,

excessively high, that the trouble and expense of car* rying them from Guayaquil to' other countries, where-there is a scarcity of them, renders it impossible to 'get a living profit.

Goods, manufactured tby the public, or wove by

Visions, sent to the jurisdiction of JJarbacoas ; and this is the commerce in which the chapitones make the first essay of tKeir abilities for trade. These provisions are exchanged for gold, found in that country, and which is afterwards sent to Lima, where it beam a greater price. Th^ir ffljiflg ak^ fipfl $ yptit in thr \ jmygmiaftnUiM^fc, Pcyayaaaodw£j^^ ;. and this jLom$x$£^^ but the only,

return in the(|iempg muerto^ or absence of the gal-W& leons, is-gold, which, like that from Barbacoas, is w sent to Lima. Tttkh*>Mt* The coast of New Spain supplies this province with indigo, of which there is a very large consumption at the manufactories, blue, being universally the colour which this people affect ip their apparel. They also import, by way of Guayaquil, iron and steel both from Europe and the coast of Guatemala; and though it fetches so high a price, that a quintal of iron sells for above a hundred dollars, and the same quantity of steel for a hundred and fifty, there is a continual demand in order to supply the peasants with the neces-sary instruments of agriculture.

The inland,or reciprocal commerce, consists in the consumption of the products of one jurisdiction in another; and is a constant incentive to industry among the inhabitants of the villages, and the lower class. Those of the province of Chimbo purchase hbme-made tucuyos and bags in those of Riobamba and Qui* to, in order to vend them at Guayaquil, bringing * thence, in return, salt, fish, and cotton; the latter of which, being wove in the looms of Quito, is again sent to'Guayaquil in stuffs. The jurisdictions of Riobamba, ... * *' Alausi

Ca. VJIfc SOUTH AMERICA. 293

Alausi and Cuen^a, by means of the warehouses at Yaguache and Noranjal, carry on a considerable trade with Guayaquil,

This trade in the manufactures of that country, which consist only of tlyfee sorts, cloth, bags, and linen, is attended with considerable profit to the traders,, ahd Advantage to the country, as* all the poor people, who are remarkably-numerous, and persons of substance, except thosepf the. capital, wear the goods manufactured in the country 5 those of Europe being so prodigiously dear, that, only Spaniards of large fortune, and persons of the highest distinction, can afford £0 jjurchaafc them- The quantity of cloth and stufft wove in this country ? apd all by Indians, either in the public manufactures or their own houses, appears from hence to he prodigiously great: >and to this, in a great measure,, is owing the happy state of this province ; the masters#nd traders soon raising fortunes, knd the' servants and dependants contented with the fruits of their industry. . ..

- i

U3 BOOK

A VOYAGfe T6 fl»fc VI,

BOOK VI. Description of the Province 6 f Qirito.

i -

CHAP. I.

pxtent of the Province of Quito, and the Jurisdiction cf its Audience.

IN the five preceding books we have endeavoured; as far as the nature of the subject would permit, to follow the order which the series of our voyage required; ancl we flatter ourselves it wll appear, that, though our principal attention was directed tor the astronomical observations, we have not omitted any interesting particular, relating to the towns and provinces through which we passed. We were always persuaded, that if the former tended to the improvement of science, and was agreeable to those who profess iti the latter might prove useful to historians, and be acceptable to those who apply themselves to the study of the constitution, state, customs, and genius of nations. We closed the fifth book with an account of the city of Quito \ this we shall employ in treating of the province, which is equally an object of curiosity \ and We are enabled to gratify the reader in the most satisfactory manner, having, in the course of pur observations, not only surveyed its whole extent, but, jby our long stay; obtained the acquaintance of many persons of undoubted judgment and veracity, on whom we could rely for particulars not to be

known

♦Cte. I SOUTH AMERICA. :a#

Jcnown fccfnfi ocular inspection. So that we have sufc .ficient reason for warranting the truth of the contents of t<his history* T

The* large province of Quito, at the time when the -Spaniard* first settled in it, was annexed to the kingdom of Peru, and continued so till the year 1718, when.a new viceroyalty being erected as Santa Fe de tBogot^, the capital of the new kingdom of Granada, it was dismembered from Peru, and annexed to Granada. At the same time the audience of Quito was auppbesa6d, together with that of Panama* in the kingdom of Terra Firma; though the latter continued dependent on the viceroys of Lima. The intention in ;this frugal scheme was, that the salaries of the great nuxnjber of officers in both, which ceased on this abolition, should be applied tq the support of the new vice-royalty, in order to prevent any additional burden pn the royal revenue; a consequence otherwise unavoidable. But experience has sfyown the impropriety and insufficiency of this measure j and that the tribunals . abolished .were of indispensable necessity in their respective cities ; an insupportable detriment resulting to the inhabitants from the vast distance of the audiences assigned thems which were, Lima for the

- kingdom of Terra Firma, and those of the province .of Quito were to apply for justice to the audience of f Santa Fe. And as the -amount of Ml the salaries

- suppressed, besides the prejudicing many families, was tnot sufficient to support thedignity of a viceroy, new

ideas succeeded; and rather than keep it up at the . expense of the royal revenue* the viceroyalty was

suppressed, and things placed again on their afctient , footing in the year 1722: the officers were restored to

their former posts vkich they had so worthily filled,

and the audiences have continued the same as before. : But the motives for erecting a new viceroyalty at f Santa F£, being confessedly ofthe greatest importance,

its restitution was again brought on the carpet -, and

U 4 the

i96 A VOYAGE TO Book V*

the great difficulty of supporting it, without detriment either to the public or the audiences the suppression of which had been so detrimental to the inhabitants, being overcome, the dignity of viceroyalty ivas again erected in the year 1739, Don Sebastian dc Eslaba, lieutenant-general, being appointed the first viceroy, and arrived in the beginning of the year 1740 to take possession of his government 5 which included the whole kingdom of Terra Firma and the province of Quito.

This province is bounded on the north by that of Santa Fe de Bogota, and includes part of the governs ment of Papayan; on the south it is limited by thp governments of Peru and Chachapoyas ; eastward it extends over the whole government of Maynas, and the river of the Amazons, to the meridian of demarcation, or that which divides the dominions of Spain and Portugal. Its western boundary is the sea, frorti the coast of Machala, in the gulf of Puna, to the coast of the government of Atacames and the jurisdiction of Barbacoas, in the bay of Gorgona. Its greatest breadth ftom north to south is about 200 leagues; and its length, from east #to west, the whole extent from Cape de Santa Elena, in the south-sea, to the meridian above mentioned ; which, by the most accurate computation, is 600 leagues. But a very great part of these vast dominions are, it must be owned, ' either inhabited by nations of savage Indians, or have not hitherto been thoroughly peopled by theSpaniards, if indeed they have been sufficiently known. All the pares that can properly be said to be peopled, and actually subject to the Spanish government, are those intercepted by the two Cordilleras of the Andes, which, in comparison to the extent of the country, may be termed a street or lane,extendingfrom the jurisdiction of the town of St. Miguel de Ibarra to that of Loga; the country from hence to the government of Popayan, and also that comprehended between the western Cordillera

-Ch.I. f SOtTTft ATS4KRICA. £97

dillera and the sea. With, this limitation the extent of the jurisdictions from east to west will be fifteen leagues or something more, being the distance intercepted between the two Cordilleras, But to this must -be added the countries c^nipwhended in the govern* ments of Jaen de Bracamorois, which border^ on the jurisdiction of Loja, and the epctremity of the whole province, and situated on thfr«ast 6ideof the easjera .Cordillera; ,*ywli to the northfrwrd, the .government of Quixos, and that of Maynas to the eastward of it; but separated by large tracts of land inhabited by wild Indians 5 and oft the north side of the province from ihat of Papayan ; though the latter is properly a distinct province from that of Quito. <,Thus on the weac side of that interval between the two Cordilleras, lies the lately erected government of Atacames, and the jurisdiction of Guayaquil: on the east side* the three governments above mentioned j and on the norths that of Papayan. ... / ,,

This province, exchisiveof these five governments, consists of nine jurisdiqeions* which in that country *re called pfpyinces, that of Quito being subdivided into as many others as there are governments and }ur .risdktionpjjWhich it i%#?cessary for the reader tp observe, ip order to avoid ^py perplexity or piistake# when;a jurisdiction happens $p be called & province^. ;though J.sh^H be careful to avoid it as much as possi-trie* The jurisdictions Tin the province, of Quito* be-.ginning .with the most northenv are the Allowing;

n - L: The town of San Miguel de Ibarra.' JL The village afOtabal* UL The city o( Quito. , ' 7 !

lVt The assiento of Lajacunga, V. The town of Riooamba, VI. The assiento of Chimbo, or Guarahda. VIL XtecicyofGtiayaquiJt /

XXII, The

*9« A VOYAGE T0 Bogs: Vf. \

VIIL ThecityofCuewfa. :. IX. The city of Loja.

Of these nine jurisdictions I shall givea succinct ao-count in this and the following chapter and then pre*, ceed to the governments.

I. The town of Sato Nfiguel de Ibarra, is the capital of the jurisdiction^ that name, which also conu tarns eight principal villages or parishes, thercames of which are, '

: T. Mira. V. Sriinas.

II. Pimanpiro. "" - » *; VI. Ttrtnbabira

til. Carangue. VIL Qcrifca.

IV. San Antonio dfe'Caranguc. VIII. . Caguasquu

Tins'jurisdiction formerly included tbatof Otaba-?0; but, oriy&ccount bf its too^ enortitotos extent,; |t was prudently divided into two. /

'" The tovvn *>f San Mige^i "de Ifeami ^an^U anithe fcxtrerpity of a very large plain er ttiead<W, at a small distance from'a chainof fftota&ains^o thfe jektward of ft, and betwrxt two riv^fs/whifch ke^tfeiVwhote pterin ift a perpetual verdure.c" The{soiJte soft«ndm&i$t, which1 not only renders the houses darnp^ btft^ateo cau^s the found'atfons of their buiWmgfei.oftto^ib "Sink. Xt is moderately large, with fetraigbt tot&kd "str<*et$, and the greatest part df th^houisSsidf sfotttf, of unb'iirrtt btitfks/'and1 aW tiled. Tbe^tbtto tetear-rounded by suburbs inhabited by the Indians, whose cottages rll&ke'tfitsame appearance asintiH other mean places* but the houses are neat and tinifonrij though they are but low, having.onfy a ground flooiy except those in the sqc/are^ whid* have tme story. Thi parish church t is ^.larger an d^tgant strutttbrei and of the same materials as the* biases. It is also wefl ornamented. This townJh'difconvents of Franeiscihs, Dominicans,' the Fathers of Mercy, a cqllege of Jesuits

and

Ch.I. :i SOCFTH AMERICA. 099

and a nunnery of the order of the Conception. Its in* habitants of ati ages, sects, and classes, are computed at ten or twelve thousand souls.

WiTHtK the limits of this jurisdiction, is the lake of Yagarchoca, famous for bang the sepulchre of the inhabitants of Otabalo, on its being taken by Hnayna-Capac, the twelfth Ynba, who, instead of showing tlwtieitKty to their magnanimity, being iritated at the noble resistance they made, ordered them all to be beheaded, both those who had quietly surrendered, aftd those taken in arms, and their bodies thrown into the lake j -and; from the water of the Jake being tinged of a bloody hue, it acquired its present name> which signifies a laki of blood.

The air iff very mild, less cold than that of Quitt$ and at the same time the heat is not at ail inconvenient The'temperature of the air is different it* atttbe villages Qf this jurisdiction, but in most warm, on ac* count of their low sitaat ion. These parts are all over this country called Valies, as I have already observed; and the t)*me&Qf those in the jurisdiction of San Miguel de Ibaura areChotarCarpuela, and several others* Most of the farms in them have plantations of sugar canes, and mills for extracting the juice, from whence tfcey make great quantities erf sugar, and very white: Sdme are planted with the fruits common in a hot cli-ttt&te ; and in others cotton only is cultivated, add to tfee greatest perfection*

The sugar canes do not rJpen here so late afe ta Qui* to ; bot they may be comnnitted at any time to the mill, there&cifigno necessity for cutting thetti at any precise time, retailing all their goodness even when suffered^ to stand two or three months aftfcr thiey are ripe; so tliafc th£y are cut every quarter, arid the mills, by that means, kept at work the whole year; * The farms situated in a less hot part are employed for cultivating maizej wheat, and barley, in the same manner ^s in the jurisdiction of Otabalo, and which

"we

Gpogle

gob . A VOYAGE TO Boot VL

we diall explain in itfe proper place. Here are als6 large numbers of goats, but not many sheep; and though the manufactures here are*not.so numerous esin Otabalo, yet the Indians weave a considerable quantity of cloth and cotton.

In tbe neighbourhood of. the village of Salinas arfe saltmines, which, besides tbe_'home consumption; supply the countries to the north vrard of it. This salt has sOme mixture of nitre; and thofcgh it majr thence be concluded to bfetess wholesome yet it is attended with no ill consequence, to those who are accustomed to it; but notanswering the, intention in Salting* that from Guayaquil is.used insiiad of it. \ * /,

Within the district of the village jof.Mira, arc greaftmrnbehsofwild asses; which increase very fest, and are not easily caught, ;£Tbte owners of the grounds where tbey jare bred, suflfer all persons tortake as ma* »y as t bey. can,^ on paying a small acknowledgment in proportion to thenufiiber of days their sport has lasted. The manner of cfctching them lis as. follows; $ number of persons g$ on horseback, and are attended by Indians on foQt. Wk$n arrived at the proper plac©s>tbey form a circle, in orderiodrive then! into some valley 5 where, at full speed* they tlwow tbs noose, a&d halter them : for these creatures, on find-t ing themselves inclosed, make very furious efforts tQ es<5ape„bnd if only one-forces his Way ibrough, tbejr all follow with an irresistible impetuosity,: But wheto the Imhtemiiave noosed t bem,they throw tbemdoj^n, add. secure them witbrfcttets, and thus leave tbem till fhe hunting is over * when, in order to jbring them away with tbe greater facility, they pair them wit!} tame beasts; but this is not easily perforated, fop tbesfc aasefc are so remarkably fierce, that they often hurt the persons who undertake to manage them* fEbey have all Ahe swiftness of horses, .and neither ac divides nor. prfecipices retard tfiem in their career; .whe» Stacked, they defend themselves with tbeirheels - v and

Gta. I, ' SOUTH AMERICA. 301

nod mouth, with such activity, that without slackening their p^ce, they often -maim their pursuers : but the most remarkable property in these creatures is, that after carrying the first lqad> their celerity leaves them, their dangerous ferocity is lost, and they soon contract the stupid look and dullness peculiar to the asinine species*, It is also observable, that these creatures will not permit a horse to live among them; and if one of t^em happens to stray into the places where they feed, they all fall upon him, and, without giving him the liberty of flying from them, they bite and kick him till they leave him dead on the spot- They are very troublesome neighbours, making a most horrid noise; for whenever one or two of them begin to bray, they are answered in the same vociferous man* ner by all within the reach of the sound, which is greatly increased and prolonged by the repercussion* pjf the valleys and breaches of the mountains,

II. The jurisdiction joining on the south to that of St. Miguel de Ibarra, is called Otabalo; in the jurisdiction of which are the following eight principal villages or parishes:

V. Cotacache. VI. San Pablo.. VII. Tocache. VIII. Urquuquu

The parish of Otabalo is well siuatcd, and spJarge and populous, that it is said to contain eighteen or twenty thousand souls, and among them a considerable number of Spaniards. But the inhabitants of all the other villages are universally Indians*

The lands of this jurisdiction are laid out in plan* tations like those of the former, except that hene are ^ot such great numbers of sugar mills; but this is compensated by its great superiority in manufactures, a consequence resulting from the multitude q(Incliaps

residing

I. Cayambe. II. Tabacundo.

III. Otabalo.

IV, Atontaqui.

3ot A VOYAGE TO Book VH

residing ift its villages, who seem to hav6 aft innate inclination to weaving; for besides the staffe made at the eomm6n manufactories, such Indians as are not Mitayos, or who are independent, make, 6n thcif own account, a variety of goods, as cottons, carpfctsi pavilions for beds, quilts in damask wo^fe, wholly of cotton, either white, blue, or variegated with di£ ferent colours ; but all in great repute, both in the province of Quito and other parts, where they are sold to great advantage.

The method of sotting wheat and barley in this jurisdiction, is very different from that used in any of the former; for, instead of scattering the seeds, as is commonly practised, they divide the ground, after it is plowed, into several parts by furrows, and along the sides of them they make little holes a loot distant from one another, putting five or six corns into each. However tedious this may be, it is abundantly made up to the fanner by the uncommon increase, which is usually above a hundred fold.

This jurisdiction has a great number of studs of horses, and multitudes of black cattle, from whose milk large quantities of cheese are made. This country is happily situated for pasture, being every where watered with an infinite number of rivulets. It ha$ also large; flocks of sheep, though these seem to be neglected, in comparison of the others.

The village of Cayambe stands in *he middle of a spacious plainy at the end of which is the foot of the mountain Cayamburo, one of the largest mountains of the Cordilleras in this part of the country, being equal in height to that of Chimborazo, and its summits co* vered with snow and ice. Its altitude is so much greater than the rest between it and Quito, that it may be plainly seen from that city. The vicinity of this mountain renders the wjiole plain of Cayambe cold* which i* increased by the violence and continue

ance

ch. i. ' south AuMitk. 30J

ance of the winds. In the territories of this jurisdiction are two lakes, one called San Pablo, from a village of that name on its banks; it is aleaguein length* and about half a league in breadth. This lake is every where surrounded with a species of rushes called there totoral, among which are vast flocks of wild geese and gallaretes. This lake receives its water from the mouQtain of Mojanda; and froth it issues one of the branches of the Rio Blanco. The other lake, which has nearly the same dimensions as the former, is called Cuichocha, and is situated in a plain on the side of a mountain of the same name. Near the middle of this are two islands, both which abound with wild cuyes, a species of rabbits, and deer, which often swim t6 main land} but, when pursued by the hunters, disappoint them by gaining the lake, and swimming back to their retreat. Several small fish are found in this lake, resembling the cray-fish, but without a shell. They are called, by the inhabitants of the adjacent country, prennadillas, and are sent in the pickle to Quito, where they are the more esteemed, as being the only fresh water fish that can be bought in that city. Nor are these caught in any great quantities, though they are also found in the lake of San Pablo. . III. The jurisdiction of Quito consists of the following twenty-five parishes, besides those in the cityt

I. St. Juan Evangelista. XII. Puembo, and II. Santa Maria Magdalena. Fiso,

III. Chilogalle. XIII. Yaruqui.

IV. Cono-coto. XIV. EI Quinche.

V. Zambiza. XV. Guayllabamba*

VI. Pintac. XVI. Machacha.

VII. Sangolquu XVII. Aloasio.

VIII. Amaguana'. XVIIL Aloa.

. „ IX. Guapulo. XIX, Yumbicho.

* X. Cumbaya. XX. Alangasi.

XI. Co-coliao. XXL Pomasque.

XXII. San

304 A VOYAGE TO . Book VI*

XXII. San Antonio de Lu- XXIV. Cola-cali.

luin-bamba*. , XXV. Tumbaco.

XXIII. Perucho.

This jurisdiction, though called CincoLeguas,five leagues, extends, in some parts, a great deal further, and the lands are as it were covered with plantations, some situated in the plains, some in the capacious breaches, and others on the summit of the mcmntains; and all producing according to the quality, situation, and exposure of the ground* Those on the temperate plains yield plentiful harvests of maize ; those at the bottoms of deep breaches, being in a hot temperature, are planted with sugar canes, from whence they extract great quantities of sugar and rum. From the fruits peculiar to such a temperature, are made a variety of sweetmeats, here called rayados; and of which there is a great consumption among the inhabitants.

The sugar cane ripens very slowly in this jurisdiction ; for though the plantations enjoy a hot air, yet it is not of that degree of heat requisite to its speedy maturity ; so that it is three years after they are planted, before they are fit to be cut. Nor are they ever cut but once, the second crop only producing the soca or germ, which serves for replanting.

The guarapo, which we have had occasion to mention, is nothing more than thejuice of the cane, as it flows from the mill, and afterwards suffered to ferment. It is very pleasant, its taste being a sweetish acidity, and, at the same time, very wholesome ; but inebriating if drunk to excess. This liquor is a favourite regale among the vulgar.

The plantations near thesummits of themountains, from their having a variety of temperatures, produce wheat, barley, pot-hetbsofall kinds, and potatoes.

Above these plantations are fed numerous flocks of sheep, producing that wool, which, from the several

' operations

CnA. SOUTH AMERICA. $©5

Operations II Undergoes, affords employment for such multitudes of people. Some farmers to^ke it their sole business to breed cows, principally for the ad-» Vantages they derive from theif ttillk irt makldg cheese and butter. In other farm-houses you see Various occupations carried on at the sam« time, ttame* Iy, the breeding of cattle, agriculture, atid rnartiifbo tures, particularly of cloth, bays, and s&tg&S.

F*OM what has been said, it is evident that nei-* ther this, nor the preceding jurisdiction, has any ge* neral temperature, the degree of cold and heat de-penditig on the dituatlort ; and that to this difference Is owing the delightful, and even profitable variety of all kinds of fruits and grains, each finding herd a temperature agreeable to its nature. Accordingly, ifi travelling only half a day, you p*ss from a cliriiate where the heat sufficiently indicates that you are itl the torrid *one, to another where you feel all the hor* rOra of winter. And what is Still more singular, and ' may be esteemed an advantage, no change occurs during the whole year; the temperate parts neve* fteling,the vicissirodes Of cold and heat. This, botf^ ever, must be allowed not to hold precisely with re* gard to the mountainous parts> the coldness of wbich is increased by the violence of the winds, or a change of weather, called tiecfipo de paramos* when the clouds. involve the greatest part of these mountains, and pre* cipitate themselves in a sleet; at which time the cold becomes intolerable: and, on the other hand, wheft those frigorific clouds are dispersed, and the wind allayed, so that the rays of the stm reach the earth, they -feet the comfortable beat Of his cheering beams.

Most of these villages are built with very liftlart-gularify. The principal part of them is the church and parsonage, which they call the cod vent, 60m the

Sriesfs being all formerly religious. These structures ave some appearance of decency: but the other parts of the village consist of a number of huts with mad* Vol. I. X walls,

3o6 A VOYAGE TO Book VL

walls, scattered all over the country, where everyone has his spot of ground, which he tills for his subsist* ence. A great part, and in some villages the whole, of the inhabitants are Indians, who live there when out of place: though in some parts the inhabitants are Mestizos, and here and there a Spanish family \ but these are extremely poor.

IV. The first jurisdiction to the southward of that of Quito, is the Assiento Latacunga. The word As-siento implies a place less than a town, but larger than a village. This place stands in a wide plain, having on the east side the eastern Cordillera of the Andes, from whence projects a very high mountain, and at a small distance from its foot is situated Latacunga, in 55 min. 14 sec. 30 thirds, south latitude. On the West side of it i$ a river, which, though sometimes fordable, on any increase of the waters must be passed over the bridge. This assiento is large and regular j the streets broad and straight; the houses of stone, arched, and well contrived : but, on account of the dangerous consequences so often resulting from earthquakes, without any story. This precaution the inhabitants were taught by a dreadful destruction of all the buildings, on the aoth of June 1698. This terrible concussion was general all over the province of Quito ; and its effects, as we shall show in the sequel, in many other places, equally melancholy. Out of six hundred stone houses, the number of which this assiento then consisted, only a part of one, and the church of the Jesuits,/ were left standing ; and even these were so greatly damaged, that there was a necessity for pulling them down. But the greatest misfortune was, that most of the inhabitants were buried under their rains, the earth* quake beginning at one in ttfe morning, a time of general silence and security, and continuing its concussions, at short intervals, the greatest part of the day.

5 The

Ch. L SOUTH AMERICA. 307

* The stone of which the houses and churches are built, is a kind of Pumice, or spongy stone, ejected from volcanoes, inexhaustible quarries of it being found in the neighbourheod. It is so light that it will swim in water, and from its great porosity the lime cements the different pieces very strongly together ; whence, and from their lowness, the houses are now enabled to support themselves during a concussion much better than before the earthquake, when few were without a story ; and if they should be unfortunately thrown down, the crush in all probability would be much less fatal.

The jurisdiction contains these principal villages:

I. Zichios Mayor. X. San Miguel de Mol-

II. Zichios Menor. leambato.

III. Yungas, or Colorados. XI. Saquisili.

IV. Ysilimhi. XII. Pugili.

V. Chisa-Halo, or Toa- XIII. Tanicuchi.

caso. XIV. Cuzubamba.

VI. Pillaro. XV. Tisaleo. '

VII. San Phelipe. XVI. Angamarca.

VIII. Mula-Halo. XVII. Pila-Halo. IX. Ataquez.

The air df this assiento is the colder, from the place being only six leagues from the mountain of Coto-paxi, which, as it is not less in height and extent * than those of Cbimborazo apd Cayafnburo, so it is, like them, covered with ice and snow. The combustible substances within the bowels of this mountain first declared themselves* in the year 1533, when Sebastian and Belalcazar, who undertook the conquest of this province, had entered it, and proved very favourable to the enterprise. For the Indians, possessed wkh the truth of a prediction of their priests, that, on the bursting of this volcano, tbey would be deprived of their country, and reduced un* 4er the government of an unknown prince, Vere so

X %. struck

3oS % A VOYAGE TO Book: VI;

struck with the concurrence of the bprsting of this volcano, and the invasion of a foreign army, that the spirit, which universally began to show itself in the preparatives every where made for a vigorous resistance, entirely left them, and the whole province easily conquered, all its caciques submitting to the king of Spain. The large'plain in which this assien~ to stands, is full pf fragments of rocks, ejected at that supposed ominous eruption, and some of them to the distance of five leagues from its roots. In the year 1743, while we were on the coast of Chili, a second eruption happened, the particulars of which we shall relate in another place.

The temperature of the air is very different in the several villages of this jurisdiction ; being hot in those lying in the valleys; temperate in those situated: on the plains; whilst the air in those bordering on the mountains, like that of the assiento, is cold, and sometimes to an excessive degree. The villages are in generallarger, and more populous, than those of the other jurisdictions in the same province. Their inbar, bitants are Indians, Mestizos, and a few Spaniards.

Besides the parish church, which is served by two priests, one for the Spaniards and the other for the Indians, this assiento has convents of Franciscans, Au-gustines, Dominicans, the Fathers of Mercy, and a college of Jesuits. The churchtes of these religious are well built, decently ornamented, and# kept very neat. The inhabitants, by the nearest computation, amount to between ten and twelve thousand, chiefly Spaniards and Mestizos. Among thefbrmer are several families of eminent rank and easy circumstances, and of such virtues and accomplishments as add a lustre to their happy situation. The Indians, as at Quito, live in a separate quarter adjoining to the country.

In this assiento all kinds of trades and mechanicarts are carried on; add, as in alt the other p£rts of this jurisdiction, it has a considerable number of manufactories

'

Ck.L " SOOTH AMERICA. 309

ries of fclo^i, bays, and tUcuyos. Great quantities of pork Ate salted here fdr exportation to Quito, Guaya* q\fit, andRiobamba, being highly esteemed for the peculiar flavour given, to it in the pickling, and which it ever after retains.

At t the neighbouring country is sowed withclover,

. and interspersed with plantations of willow's, whose

jterpeftial verdure gives a cheerful aspect to the coun*

try, and heightens the pleasantness of the assiento*

Th£ Indians of Pugili and Saquisili are noted for making earthen wafe, as jars, pans, pitcher*, fcc, which are gfeatly valued all over the province of Quito. The clay of which they are made is ofa lively red, very fine, and emits a kind of frafgtiancy* and the workmanship very neat and ingenious.

V. The next jurisdiction southwards isRiobatnba, the capital of whidi h the town of the Same name. Its jurisdiction is divided into two departments j the corregidor, who resides At Riobamba, appointing a deputy, who lives at the assiento of Hambato, situated between the capital and Latacuttga* In the first department afe the following principal villages j

I. Calpt. X. Pungala.

II. Lican. XI. Lito.

III. Yaruqute. * XII. Guano.

IV. San Luis. XIII. Hilapo.

V. Cajabamba. XIV. Guanando.

VI. San Andres. XV. Penrpe. VII. Puhi. XVI. Cubijies. Xllt. Chambo. XVII. Cevadas.

IX. Quimia. XVIII. Palactanga:. .

The department of the assiento of Hamberto has, in itsjurisdiction, six principal villages :

I. Isambo. V. Patate.

II. Quisupincha. VI. Santo Rosa dePila*

IIL Qbefa» guki.

IV; Pelileo.

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310 A VOYAGE TO feoo*Vt

This assiento stands in the latitude of i° 41' 40": southj and 22' west, of the city of Quito. In 15 33 it -was an Indian town, of which Sebastian de Belalcasar having made himself master, the fpllowing year marshal Diego Ae Almagro laid the foundation of the present assiento. It stands in a very large plain surrounded by mountains; particularly on the north side, which is bounded by Chimborazo, from the foot of which it is at no great distance. On the south side is a lake, x called Colta, about a league in length and three quarters of a league in breadth, where there are great numbers of wild geese and gallaretas; and its banks covered with jplantations.

The principal square and streets are very regular, straight, and airy; the houses of alight stone, but some* thing heavier than the pumice made use of at La-tacunga. Some, especially tfrose in and near the square, have a story; but the others are universally without arty, being built low, on account of the earth* quakes, which this place has often felt, particularly that already mentioned of 1698, when, many of its houses and public buildings were thrown down. The Indians who inhabited this place, and all those to the southward in this jurisdiction, before theirconversion to Christianity, were known by the name ofPuruayes; and are to this day distinguished from all the other Indians in the whole province.

Besides the great church, here is another called St. Sebastian, with convents of the same orders as at Latacunga, and a nunnery of the Conception j con. tributions are still raised for the use of the hospital, though it is in so ruinous a condition as not to admit of patients.

On the west side of the assiento is a river cut into small channels or trenches, for watering-the adjacent fields; by* which means they are rendered so remark* ably fertile, that they produce clover the whole year.

The

Ch. I. SOtJTH AMERICA. 311

The inhabitants, according to an accurate calculation, amount to between sixteen and twenty thousand souls. The manners and customs here are nearly the same with those at Quito; the greatest part of the families of distinction in that city owing their origin to this pldce. For at the beginning of the conquests, many of the eminent families which came from Spain settled here at the conclusion of the war, and have been very careful not to diminish either the lustre of their families, or their wealth, by promiscuous alii* * ances, marrying only into one another.

The magistracy consists of regidores, who are always persons of the first distinction, and from among those are annually chosen the ordinary alcaldes; with this singularity, that the validity of the election de-bends on its being unanimous, a single vote rendering it void. Besides, the person thus elected is either con-firmed or rejected by the townsmen j. a privilege known in no other part of the whole province.

The air is colder here than at Quito, owing in a great measure to the neighbourhood of the mountain of Cbimborazo; and, when the wind blows from that quarter, the weather is so sharp, that the rich families leave the town, and retire to their estates, situated in a warmer air, though at no great distance. This uncomfortable season generally lasts from December to. June, the north and north-west winds then principally prevailing. It is, however, in a great measure, free from those violent showers and tempests so common at Quito, that sometimes for many days successively it enjoys serene and delightful weather 5 and the same may be said of the greatest part of its jurisdiction .r

Here are many plantations, or farms; and most of them considerable; and for the number and largeness of its manufactories, it surpasses every other part of this province; though the Indians seem born with an inclination for weaving, particularly those of the vil-

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3" A VOYAGE TO Boo* VI.

lage of Quano, who We famed for their n^nufactures pf worsted stockings, and it i$ indeed the only place In the whole province where they are made. This in-dustripus disposition probably gave rise to the largQ 'flocks of sheep in this jurisdiction, whence these ma-r nufactories are never in want of wool. The soil i^ very fertile, producing all kinds of grain and pulse iq abundance. And here is most frequently seen what | h^ve elsewhere observed; that in one part ths husbandmen are sowing, in another reaping; th§ landscape also elegantly adorned with such an enchanting variety of colours as painting cannot express,,

l# this jurisdiction is a large plain lying south of the town of Tiocaxas, and famous for a battle between th^ Spaniards commanded by Belalcazar and thepurruayes Indians, before their courage had been * depressed by the ominous, explosion ofth? mountain, Both armies fought with great obstiqacy, though neither gained the victory.

The assiento of Hambato stands, in a wide plain at the bottom of a mountain. On the N, sidfe of it runs a large river, over which a bridge has been built, it being never fordable on account of its depth anq extreme rapidity. It is finely situated, and rn extent apd populousqess nearly equal to Latacunga,tbenum-ber .of its inhabitants amounting to eight or nine < thousand* The houses are of upburnt bricks, well contrived, and make a good appearance. With regard to their lowncss, it is owing to a, discreet precaution against the melancholy shocks of earthquakes. It has a parish-church, tv*o chapels of ease, and a convent of Franciscans. The earthquake which made such terrible havock in the.assiento of liUtacunga, proved also fatal to this* The earth near it opened in several places, of which there still remains an as-tonishihhing monument on the S. side of the assfento, .being a chasm four pr five feet broad* aj*d about a

league

Ch. L SOUTH AMERICA* 313

league in length, nprth and south. And on the N. $ide of tb? river are several openings of the same kind* The horror of the shock was greatly increased by terrible eruptions from Mount Carguairaso, from, whence a muddy torrent, formed of ashes, cinders* and snpw melted by the flames from the aperture precipitated down the sides of the mountain, over-% flowing the fields, sweeping awpy the cattle, and every other object, by its violence. A track of this im~ „ petuous current is still to be seen on the S. side of the assiento* . r . ,

Th& inhabitants in their manners and customs re* semble'those of Quito; but with regard to families of distinction, it is much inferior to Riobamba. Courage is an innate quality of the natives, but blended with such vices, that bbth their neighbours, and the inhabitants of the Other parts of the province, will'have no concerns with them, except those absolutely necessary* and, in all dealings with them, take care to guard equally against their deceit and violence.

This jurisdiction in several of its products and ma-i nufactiires excels all the rest: one of which is bread, particularly that made at theassiento, whichJafamous qll'Qvcr the province; and accordingly it is sent to Quito, and Qther parts* without losing any thing of its goodness by, length of time. The Indian inhabit t*Dts of the vdlage of Quero make ail sorts of ca<,' binet wo$fc, for which there is a great demand all over the province, as, besides the goodness of th? workman* ship, this, is the only place where goods of this kind are mad$« The jurisdiction of Patate is equally fa«* mpus for the plenty of sugar canes, and the good-* nefcs of the sugar made from them, being of the finest $orV That of Santa Rosa de Pil^uin, which, with its fields,.lies on the side of Carguaira$o, is famous foe the particular goodness of its barley, as the district bordering on the assaentpis fop the egquisiteness of its fruits; and to this district Quito owes most of the £u<%

ropean

ji4 A VOYAGE TO Book VL %

ropean kinds sold m that city, the temperature of the air being peculiarly adapted to the perfection of those friuts.

VI. On the W, side of the jurisdiction of Riobam-ka, between it and Guayaquil, lies that of Chimbo, whose jurisdiction consists of an assiento and seven villages: the former, being the capital, is called Cbimbo, and was the residence of the corregidor, till * it was thought proper, for the conveniency of com-merce, to remove it to Guaranda. This assiento does not contain above eighty families; some of which are Spaniards, but all poor. The names of the villages are*

I. San Lorenzo. V. Guaranda.

II. Asaneoto. VI. Guanujo*

III. Chapacoto. VII. Tomabelas.

IV. San Miguel.

The most considerable of their villages is that of Guaranda, though the inhabitants are generally Mestizos ; there are some Indians, but very few Spaniards.

The jurisdiction of Chimbo,*being the first of the Serrania, or ridge of mountains, bordering on that of Guayaquil, carries on, by means of innumerable droves of mules, the whole trade of Quito and the other provinces, by the way of Guayaquil, carrying the bales of cloth, and stuffs, together with the meal, *x>rn,,and other products of the country, from the former to the latter; and returning with wine, brandy, Salt, cotton, fish, oil, and other goods wanted in the provinces of the mountains. This traffic is of inconceivable benefit to the inhabitants; but it can only be carried on during the summer, the road* in the winter being absolutely impracticable to beasts of any kind. This intermission of trade they call Cerrarse la montana/ The shutting up of the mountains.

The

Ch.L SOUTH AMERICA. 315

. The temperature of the air at Guaranda, and that of the greatest part of the jurisdiction of Chimbo, from the proximity of Chimborazo, so often mentioned for its frigorific effects, is* very cold. The country i^ large and fertile, like those already mentioned; but the fyacjiendas, or farms, are in general appropriated to the breeding of mules; a few only being sown with different species of grain.

VTI. The jurisdiction of Guayaquil is the last? but this has been already treated of at large.

CHAP. II.

Sequel of ibe Account of the Jurisdictions in the Province of Quito*

VIII. rr^HE jurisdiction bordering oh the southern X parts of Riobantba, is that of Cuencja, whose capital is the city of the same name, founded in the year 1557 by Gil Ramirez Davalos. Its ju-risdiction is divided into two departments, of which ihe capital is one, and that of Alausi the other; the last reaches to Riobamba, and is governed by a deputy of the corregidor. Besides, the assiento, it contains only the four following villages:

I. Chumche* III. Cibambe.

II. Gtiasuntos. : IV. Ticsari.

But that of the city of Cuenqa incudes ten:

I. Azogues. VI. Paccha.

II. Atunoanar. VII. Gualaseo.

III. Giron. VIIL Paujte.

IV. Canary-bamba. IX. Delec.

V* Espiritu. 11 X. Molleturo.

The

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3*6 A VOYAGE TO BooicVj*

The city of Cucnqa lies in a0 $$' 49" south latitude* and £9' 25" west of the meridian of Quito. It stands in a very spacious plain, along which, at about half a league to the northward of the city, runs a little river called Machangara; and close to the south 6ide of the city runs another known by the name of ftiatadero. Besides these, at the distance of a quarter of a league, tuna another called Yanuhcay ; and at about the skme distance is another termed Los Banos, from a village of that name/ through which it flows. All these rivers are at some seasons ford-*bte i but at others can only be crossed with safety over the bridges.

/ The plain in whtah this city stands, reaches about six leagues from north to soath * and -ttte four rivers, whose courses are nearly in the same direction, form, at a small distance, by the conflux of their streams, a very large river. To the: south of the ci*y is 3hdther .plain of about two leagues in extent, and* with its great variety of regular plantations of treea^ and other rural ftnproyem&its, makes a very delightful appear* ance all the year rotuul. *

This city may be classed among those of the fpurth order. Its streets are straight, and of a convenient breadth; the houses of unburnt bricks tilecj, and many of them have one story, the. owners, from a ridiculous affectation of grandeur, preferring elegance to Security/ The suburbs, inhahitM by ibe Indians, are, as usual, mean and regular,, Several streams of prater, by great labour, are brought from the above rivers, add flaw through the streets; sd that the ctty is plentifully supplied 5 and for its admirable situation, and the fertility of ftie soil, it might he rendered the paradise* not only df (he province of Quito, but of all Perp; few dtits Jkeitfg capable to teast of so many advantages as confceatBe here; butreither ftom supine-ncss or,«gnoranfce, they are far froen bemg duly im-cpBoved. One circumstance,.which adds a singular

beauty

Digged by

Cfc- II. SOUTH AMERICA- #7r

beauty to ltd situation, is, that the mountains arc not sphigb as to intercept the view of a beautiful country ; but at a proper distance they rise again to their stupendous height, as is seen in the mountain Agudy, which divides this jurisdiction from that of Alausi* . Cu*n<$a contains three parishes; that of thfe great church consists of Spaniards and Mestizos; the two others* which are called Sao Bias and San Sebastian, are for the Iodians. Here are convents of Franciscans, Dominicans,) Augustines, and the Fathers of Mercy; a college of Jesuits, and two nunneries, one of the Conception and the other of Santa Teresa. Here is also an hospital, but through ill management now almost in ruins.

, The magistracy is composed of rcgidores and ordinary alcaldes* which, according to the general custom, are chosen annually, and at their head is thecorregi-dor. Here is a chamber of finances, under the direction of an accomptant and treasurer. It was for-' merly kept in the city of Sevilla del Oro, a juris* diction, and the capital of the department of Macas; but on the loss of the city of Logrono, the village of Cuamhaya and other places, it was removed to Loja, and since to Coeo$a. The revenues paid into it consist of the tribute of the Indians of this depart* ment, together* with that of Alausi, the jurisdiction of Loja, and the government of Jean de Bracamoros* the duties ton provisions, and the customs collected at Naranjal. "

Tub inhabitants here, though of the same classes with those of Quito, differ something in their geniuf and manners ^ particularly in a most shameful indolence, which seems so natural to them, thai thiy batfe a Strange aversion to all kinds of work; the vulgar are also rude, vindictive, and, in short, wicked in every sense. From this general reproach, the women must, however, be excepted, being remarkable for an uncommon spirit of industry j as if they were determined

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318 A VOYAGE TO BookVL

termined to atone for the indolence of the other sex* They spin and weave bays, which, for their goodness, and especially the brilliancy of the colours* are famous in every part of Peru. They also weave some tucu-yosi and make bargains with the merchants or traders. They buy and sell; and, in short, manage en* tirely that little commerce by which their families are supported : whilst their husbands, brothers, and fathers, give themselves up to sloth and idleness, with all its infamous concomitants. The whole number of inhabitants of this city is computed at twenty or thirty thousand souls; and both those of the city and of the jurisdiction are commonly known by the gene* ral name of Morlacos.

" The pleasures arising from the fertility of the soil are increased by the mildness of the climate, the liquor of the thermometer fluctuating the whole year between 1013 and 10155 so that the cold is very little felt, and the heat very supportable. With regard to rains, and tempests of thunder and lightning, they are as common here as at Quito. In calm weather, the sky is serene, and the inhabitants healthy 1 nor are malignant fevers and pleurisies, though common to the whole province, so often known as at Quito. The country is" finely interspersed with farmhouses and plantations of sugar canes; some parts are cultivated for corn, and others applied to the feeding of sheep and homed cattle, from the last of which they make great quantities of cheese, not inferior to that of Europe; and accordingly there is a very considerable demand for itallvover these parts. The village of Atun-canar, or Great-canar, is famous for its extensive cornfields, and the rich harvest they afford. It is.also remarkable for the riches concealed in its mountains, the bravery of its ancient inhabitants, and their unshaken loyalty to Ynca Tupac-Yupanqui, to whom, when his army intended for this country was arrived near the frontiers, sensible of

their

Ch.IL ; SOUTH AMERICA. 319

their inability of making any effectual resistance, they submitted, and paid him all t the honours which denoted a voluntary subjection; and these marks of loyalty so possessed the emperor in their favour, that, to encourage them to cherish sych good dispositions, he ordered several magnificent temples, splendid palaces, and forts, all of stone, to be built here, in the manner of those of Cusco, and the inside of the walls to be plated over with gold. And of these works some tnonuments still remain in a fort and palace, and of which neither time nor accidents have obliterated their astonishing magnificence; a description will be given of both in another place. These works had soch happy effects on the grateful inhabitants, that they fell at last victitnfs to their loyalty ; for, having sided with the Ynca Huescar, their lawful sovereign, against his , brother Atri Huallpa, and the former losing a decisive battle, the cpnqueror inhumanly abused his victory, by destroying those unhappy persons who had done no more than their duty, no less than 60,000 of them being massacred in cold blood.

TheTse Indians were united with the Guasantos, and those of Pamallacta, in which district are still to be seen the ruins of another fort, built by the Yncas. The intimacy between the inhabitants of these countries was so remarkable, that they were air called Ca-narejos, that under one name they might form one body.

The assicnto of Alausi, the chief place of the second department, is not very populous, though among its inhabitants are some Spanish families of the first rank. The other inhabitants are Mestizos and Indians, but both classes in mean circumstances. The parochial . church is the only ecclesiastical structure; nor has this the ornaments which decency requires.

The village of Ticsan, which stood in this depart-ment, was totally destroyed by an earthquake, and the inhabitants-removed to a safer situation. The marks

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3*o A VOYAGE TO Boo* Vt

of these dreadful convulsions of nature are still tMbfe in several chasms among the mountain*, many beirig two or three feet broad, a convincing proof of the violent concussions in the boweli of the earth at the fime of that catastrophe. The temperature of the ail* is here something colder than at €uen$a; but not in a degree sufficient to lessen the exuberant fertility of the toil.

Among the great variety of mines in the jurisdiction of Cuen$a, and which I shall consider more at large in the sequel, those of gold and Silver, according to the common opinion, are not the least numerous. Re* port has indeed magnified them to such adegree, that, to prove the astonishing quantity of those metals, thd inhabitants relate the following story, the truth of whidi I do not pretend to warrant. It exhibits in* deed an instance so contrary to the common order of things, as to be scarce reconcileable to reason. I shall, however, venture to relate it, because, if tba i-eader should think it incredible, it will at least serve to convey an idea of the riches supposed to be concealed in the bowels of the mountains.

Between the valleys of Chugui-pata, whfeh ex- . tend from the village and jurisdiction of Los Azogues southward, and that ofPoute running eastward along thebanksofthesamename,are several eminences which 'divide the two plains, andamongthese onehigherthaa . the rest called Supay-urco, a name said to have been given it on the following account. An inhabitant of the province of Estramadura in Spain, from the extremity of his distress, abandoned himself to despair; and, in the frjfenzy of hist wild imagination, sometimes implored the assistance of Satan,and sometimescursed the moment that gave birth to his wretched being, and was for laying violent hands upon himself. Tbt devil taking advantage of his condition appeared to him, but in a dress which sufficiently concealed his nature, and courteously asked the cause of his ex*

cessive

Ch.H. SOUTH AMERICA. jai

cessive melancholy; and being informed that it was owing to an unhappy change of circumstances, from a plentiful fortune to ,the most extreme poverty, the! devil, with a cheerful air, told him, that he would show him a spot from whence he might have what quantity of gold he pleased, the mine being absolutely inexhaustible. The Spaniard embraced the offer with the greatest transport of joy ; and, concluding that it would at least prove a journey of some days, purchased, with the penurious remains of his substance, a few loaves, which he packed up in his wallet; and* his mind being something easier from these flattering promises, laid himself down to rest till the time appointed, when he was to call upon his guide. But when he awaked, be found himself in a country absolutely unknown, the plain of Chequipata lying before him, and himself reclined on the eminence of Supay-urco. His astonishment, at viewing such multitudes of strange objects, can be much better conceived than expressed. For sonpe time indeed hd doubted whether they were real or illusive, till tired with uncertainties, and determined to know in what country he was, he directed his way to a house of some figure, which he saw at a distance. This happened fortunately to belong to a Spaniard, who was a native of the same province of Estramadura j and being informed by his servants that a stranger of the same country was at the gate, the master, pleasing himself with the hopes of hearing some news from Jiis native land, ordered him to be brought in, received him with great marks of friendship, and, being at breakfast, made him sit down with him, and began to enter on the pleasing inquiry after his friends and relation; but his guest taking out one of his loaves, which the gentleman knew was baked in Spain, and finding it quite new, was so lost in astonishment, that be forgot both his breakfast and relations, insisting (though afraid to hear) that his apparent countryman

Vol. I. Y should

3*s A VOYAGE TO Book VI.

should inform him how it was possible to make so long a voyage in so short a time. The other readily satisfying his desire, they both agreed that this must have been an action of that enemy to mankind, who-bad brought the poor Spaniard thither to enrich himself from the treasures concealed in the bowels of the hill on which he had laid hrm; and ever since it has been called Supay-urco, or the Devil's Hill. This story is well known throughout all the jurisdiction of Cuen9a, even the children are acquainted with it; and father Manuel Rodriguez, in his ' Historia del Ma-r^non, y Amazonas, lib. ii. cap. 4.' mentions it. From all which it may be inferred, that it is, in reality, of as ancient a date as the inhabitants of Cuen9a pretend;* that it has descended through a long, series of time without alteration ; and from this story, though destitute of proof, the notion that this hill contains an inexhaustible treasure had its rise.

IX. The last jurisdiction of the province of Quito, on this side, is that of Loja, the capital of which is called by the same name^and was founded in the year 1546, by captain Alonso de Mercadillo. It resembles* in extent, form, and buildings, the city of Cuen9a; but the temperature of the air is considerably hotter. In i:s district are the following fourteen villages:

I. Saraguro and Ona. VIII. Zororonga. II. San Juan del Valle. IX. Dominguillo.

III. Zaruma. X. Catacocha.

IV. Yuluc. XI. San Lucas deAmboca* V. Guachanana. XII. El Sisne.

VI. Gonzanama. XIII. Malacatos.

VII. Cariumanga. XIV. San Pedro del Vallc.

LoJa, besides two churches, has several convents, a nunnery, a college of Jesuits, and an hospital.

In theterritory of this jurisdiction is produced that famous specific for intermitting fevers, known by the

name

Ch.II. ' SOUTH AMERICA. ' 323

name of Cascarilla de Loja, or Quinquina. Of this specific there are different kinds* one of which is more efficacious than the others. M. de Jussieu, whom I have already had occasion to mention more than once, being sent to make botanical observations, and take care of the health of the academicians, took ihe trouble of making a journey to Loja, purely to examine the tree which produces it; and in a full description, which he drew up for the satisfaction of botanists and other curious persons, enters, with his known skill and accuracy, into a very minute distinction of the several species, and enumerates the smallest circumstances. At the same time he was pleased to inform the. cor-regidor of the differences, and to instruct the Indians employed in cutting it to distinguish each species, that the best sort only might be sent unmixed to Europe. Nor was this all; he farther instructed them how to make an extract of it, and prevailed on. the inhabitants of that territory to use it, where its virtues had till that time been neglected, though intermitting fevers are there as common as in any other, parts. Before be undeceived them, the natives imagined that it was exported to Europe only as an ingredient in dyeing; and though they were not entirely ignorant of its virtues, they made no use of it, little imagining that a sigipleof so hot a nature could be good for them. But this ingenious physician convinced them of their mistake by many happy effects; so that now it is generally used in all kinds of fevers: and persons of undoubted veracity, who have since visited Loja, have given me very pleasing accounts of Hs salutary effects.

The tree which produces the cascarilla is not of the largest size, its usual height being about two toises and a half, and the body and branches of a propor- * tionate thickness. In this* however, there is some difference, and in that consists the goodness of.thecas-, carilla, the largest branches npt "yielding the best.

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3H A VOYAGE TO Book VI.

There is also a difference both in the blossom and seed. The Indians, in order to take off the cassarilla or cortex, cut down the tree; after which they bark it, and dry the quinquina. There are here large and thick forests of this tree; but notwithstanding this, there is a very sensible diminution of them, occasioned by the Indians not sowing the seedj those which grow spontaneously not being by any means equal to those which have been cut down.

In the jurisdiction of Cucp$a have also been discovered many woody parts, in which this valuable tree is found: and when I was in that country, a priest atCuen9a procured alarge quantity of cascarilla^ and sent it to Panama, the only place from whence it is exported. This instance, together with his assurances that it was of the same kind with that of Loja, induced several of the inhabitants of Cuen^a to attempt the discovery, and were soon convinced that trhe jurisdiction contained large forests of this tree, which had been neglected by them, whilst their neighbours reaped no small advantages from it.

The jurisdiction of Loja has also a very great ad*-vantage from breeding the cochineal, and which intelligent persons reckon of equal goodness with that of Oaxacain New Spain; but the inhabitants are so far from applying themselves to f hebreeding of that insect, sufficient to supply the demands of a particular trade, that they breed no more than what they imagine will be sufficient for the dyers in that and the neighbouring jurisdiction of Cuen9a. To this elegant and lasting dolour it is probably owing that the bays of Guen^r, and the carpets tff Loja, are preferred to all others: though the beauty of the colours may in some measure proceed from the superior skill of the workmen of * Loja and Cuen^a, over'those of Quito and Qther parts of the province where the same goodsare manufactured. The cochineal is also bred in the depart* meat of #Hambato> though wit boat sgjfr constant ga>-'' - ^ thcrings

Ch. IL SOUTH AMERICA. 315

therings of that insect. It is not however to be doubted, But that a more careful attention would ensure them the same success in great as in smalll quantities*

Having mentioned this insect, so highly valued ill every part of the world for the incomparable beauty of its red, which it equally communicates to wool, silk, linen, and cotton, it may be expected that I should give some farther account of it; and as I should.be sorry to disappoint any rational curiosity of my readers, and at the same time to insert any thing that is not strictly true, I was unwilling to rely whblly on my own experience; together with the accounts I procured at Loja and Hambato, especially as Oaxaca is the principal place where this insect is produced, I made it my business to consult persons well acquainted with the subject, and received the following account, in which they all unanimously agreed.

The cochineal is bred on a plant known in Oaxaca, and all those parts where it abounds, by the name of ncspal*, or nopalleca, the Indian fig-tree, which, except in the difference of the foliage, resembles the tunos, so common in the kingdom ol Andalusia. The leaf of the tuna being broad, flat, and prickly; and that of the nopal, oblong, with several eminences; and instead of spines, has a fine smooth membrane, of a fine permanent and lively green.

The method of planting the nopal is by making roWs of holes, about half a yard deep, and about two yards distant from one another. In each of these holes is placed one or two leaves of the nopal, in a flat position, and then covered with earth. This leaf soon after shoots up into a single stem, which during its growthdivides into several branches,and these sucoes-

* This plant is called by botanists, Opuntla maxima, foHo oblongo rotundo majorg, spinulis obtusis molUbuset innocentibw obsitojjlore striis jfubrh vartegatq* Sloane's Catalogue.

Y 3 sively

3a6 A VOYAGE TO Book VI.

sively produce fresh leaves,the largest being nearest to ihe stem, which is full of knots, as are alsotnebranches, and from these the leaves have their origin. The usual height of this plant is about three yards, which it seldom exceeds. The season when the nopal displays all its beauty and vigour is, like that of other plants, from the spring to the autumn, which at Oaxaca, and other parts of Norih America, is at the same time as in Spain. Its blossom is small, of a bright red, and in the shape of a bud, from the centre of which proceeds the tuna, a name given to its fruit; and as this increases, the blossom fades, till at length it falls. When the tuna, or fig, is ripe, the outward skin becomes white; but the pulp is so fully impregnated with a deep red, that it tinges of a blood colour the urine of those who eat it; a circumstance of no small uneasiness to those who are unacquainted with this particular. Few fruits, however, aie either more wholesome or pleasant.

The ground where the nopal is intended to be planted must be carefully cleansed from all kinds of weeds, as they drain the soil of those juices which the nopal requires. Also after the cochineal is taken from the plant, which is never done till the insects are arrived at perfection, all the superfluous leaves are plucked off, that they may be succeeded by others the following year. For it must be observed, that the thineal which are bred on yodng plants thrive much better, and are of a finer quality, than those produced on such as have stood some years.

The cochineal was formerly imagined to be a fruit or seed of some particular plant; an error which probably arose from an ignorance of the manner in which it is propagated; but, at present, every one is convinced of its being an insect, agreeably to its name, signifying a wood-louse,which generally breeds in damp places, especially in gardens. These insects, _ fcjy rolling themselves up, form a little ball, something

Ch.II. SOUTH AMERICA. 327

thing less than a pea, and in some places are known by the name of Baquilas de San Anton, i. e. St. Anthony's little cows: and such is the figure of the cochineal, except that it has not the faculty of rolling uself up; and its magnitude, when at its full growth, does not exceed that of a tick, common in do^sanci other animals.

These insects breed and are nourished on the nopals, vihere their eggs are placed among the leaves ; the juice of the plant, which is their sole nourishment, becomes convertcdinto their substance; when, instead of being thin and waterish, and, to all outward appearance, of little or no use, it is rendered a most beautiful crimson colour. The plant is in May or June in its most vigorous state, and at this favourable season the eggs are deposited ; and in the short space of two months, from an animalcule, the insect grows up to the size abovementioned : but its infant state is exposed to a variety of dangers; the violent blasts of the north wind sweep away the eggs from the foliage of the plant; and, what is equally fatal to their tender constitutions, showers, fogs, and frosts, often attack them, and destroy the leaves, leaving the careful cultivator this only resource, namely, that of making fires at certain distances, and filling the.air with smoke, which frequently preserve them from the fatal effects of the inclemency of the weather.

The breeding of cochineal is also greatly obstructed by birds of different kinds, which are very fond of these insects; and the same danger is to be apprehended from the worms, &c. which are found among the plantations of nopals: so that, unless constant care be taken to fright the birds away from the plantation, and to clear the ground of those various kinds of vermin which multiply so fast in it, the owner will be greatly disappointed in his expectations.

When the insects are at their full growth, they are gathered and put into pots of earthen ware; but great

Y 4 attention

3*1 A VOYAGE TO Book Vf,

attention is requisite to prevent them from getting put, as in that case great numbers of them would be lost: though there is no danger of it, where they 3re at liberty on the nopa\ leaves, those being their natural halitation, and where they enjoy a plenty of delicious food ; for though they often remove from pne leaf to another, they never quit the plant; nor is it uncommon to see the leaves entirety covered with them, especially when they are arrived at mat in rit)% When they 4)ave been confined some time in these pots, they are killed and put into bags. The Indians have three different methods of killing these insects; one by hot water, another by fire, and a third by the rays of the sun; and to these are owing the several gradations of the colour, which in some isdark, and in others bright; but all require a certain degree of heat, Those, therefore, who use hot water are very carfeful to give it the requisite heat, and that the (quantity of water be proportioned to the number of insects. The method of killing them by fire, is to put them on shovels into an oven, moderately heated for that intention ; the fine quality of the cochineal depending on its not being over-dried at the time of

^ killing the insects: and it must-be owned, that among the several ways made use of to destroy this valuable creature, that of the rays of the sun seems to bid fairest for performing it in the most perfect manner.

Besides the precaution requisite in killing tbe cq* ehineal, in order to preserve its quality, it is equally accessary to know when it is in a proper state for being remQved from tbe leaves of the nopal; but, as experU ence only can teach the cultivator this necessary cri-

, terion, no fixed rule can be laid down. Accordingly, ill these provinces where the cultivation oftheseipsects is chiefly carried pn, those gathered by Indians of one Tillage differ from those gathered in another; and .even those gathered ty one person in tt)e samp village

are

Cn. II, SOUTH AMERICA 3*9

are often* different from those gathered by another 9 «very individual adhering to his own method.

The cochineal insect may in some circumstances be compared to the silkworm, particularly in the manner of depositing its eggs. The insects destined for this particular are taken at a proper time of their growth, and put into a box well closed, and lined with a coarse cloth, that none of them be lost. In this confinement they lay their eggs and die* The box is kept close shut till the time\>f placing the eggs on the nppal, when, if any motion is perceived, it is a sufficient indication that the animalcule has life, though the egg is so minute as hardly to be perceived; and this is the seed placed on the foliage of ' the nopal, and the quantity contained in the shell of a hen's egg is sufficient for covering a whole plant* It is remarkable that this iqsect does not, or at least in any visible manner, injure the plant; but extracts its nourishment from the most succulent juice, which it sucks by means of its proboscis through the fine teguments of the leaves.

The principal countries where the cochineal insects are bred, are Oaxaca, Flascala, Ceulula, Nueva Gal-licia, and Chiapa in the kingdom of New Spain; and Hambato, Loja, and Tucuman in Peru. And though the nopal thrives equally in all, yet it is only in Oaxaca that they are gathered in large quantities, and form a branch of commerce, the cultivation of these little creatures being there the chief employment of the Indians; whereas in others, where the inhabitants take but little trouble in their cultivation, they breed wild, and those gathered in them are accordingly called grana sylvestria*. Not that either the insects or nopals are of different species; for with regard to the disadvantageous difference between the

* This wild cochineal is generally known in England by the ^name cochineal mestique.

colour

3?o A VOYAGE TO Book VI

colour of the wild cochineal and that of Oaxaca, it does not proceed from a difference of species, but from a want of proper care in its improvement; and were the culture everywhere alike, this difference would no longer.sub>ist. But the Indu.nsneglectit, either-because no commerce of that kind has been operted among them ; or from an aversion to the Trouble and attention requisite to bring those insects to perfection ; or, lastly, from the apprehension that the fruits of all their time and care may be destroyed by one of the above-mentioned accidents.

The temperature best adapted to the production of this insect cannot be precisely determined, there being in' Oaxaca, as well as in the province of Quito, parts of very different temperatures, some hot, some temperate, and others cold ; yet all breed the cochineal. It is, however, very probable, that %the most proper climate is the temperate and dry; because in these the nopal thrives the best. And agreeably to this observation it is remarked, that Hambato and Loja are the countries in the province of Quito where they most abound ; though they are also seen in other parts, where both the heat and cold are greater.

Here I cannot help observing, that Andalusia in Spain appears to mc extremely well situated for breeding cochineal, both from the nature of the climate, and the plantation of fig-trees, which there attain so great perfection. Here also neither frosts, fogs, or snows, are to be apprehended, particularly in spring; and the happy medium between cold and heat is, as I have before observed, that which this creature is particularly fond of.

The inhabitants of Loja, who are known all pver this province by the name ofLojanos, do not exceed ten thousand souls, though formerly, when the city was in its greatest prosperity, they were much more numerous. Their character is much better than that

of

Ch. II. SOUTH AMERICA. 331

of the inhabitants of Cuenqa ; and besides their affinity in customs and tempers to the other villages, they cannot be branded with the character of being slothful. In this jurisdiction, such numerous droves of horned cattle and mulesare bred, that it supplies the others of this province, and that of Piura in Valles. The carpets also manufactured here are of such remarkable fineness, that they find a ready sale wherever they arc sent. *

The corregidor of Loja is also governor of Yagu-arsongo,and principal alcalde of the mines of Zaruma; and, as such, a chair of state is placed for him at all public solemnities of the church, where he is present; a distinguishing honour allowed only to the presidents .or governors of those provinces. The post of governor of Yaguarsongo is at present a mere title without any jurisdiction ; part of the villages which formetl it being lost by the revolt of the Indians, and the others added to the government of Jaert ; so that the corregidor of Loja enjoys only those honours intended to continue the remembrance of that government.

Thb town of Zeruma, in the jurisdiction of which are those mines of gold I shall mention in another part, has presented the corregidor of Loja with the title of its alcalde major. It was one of the first towns founded in this province, and at the same time one of the most opulent j but is at present in a mean condition, owing chiefly to the decay of its mines, on which account most gf the Spanish families have re* tired, some to Cuenq^, and others to Loja ; so that at present its inhabitants are said not to exceed six thousand. The declension of these mines, which is not so much to be imputed to a scarcity of metal, as to the negligence of those concerned in working them, has been disadvantageous to the whole depart mept of Loja; and consequently diminished the nunru .ber Qf its inhabitants,

Having

33a A VOYAGE TO Book,VI,

Having thus described ttibse nine jurisdictions which form the most wealthy part of the province of Quito, I shall, in the following chapters, treat of the governments.

CHAP. III.

Account hf the Governments of Popayan andAtacamesy belonging to the Province of Quito.

WE have already given a just account of every thing worthy notice in the jurisdictions within the audience of Quito. To render the narrative complete, it is necessary that we now proceed to the governments within the limits of that audience; as they jointly form the vast country of the province of Quito. And though they generally give the name of province to every government, and even to the departments into which both are subdivided, we shall not here follow this vulgar acceptation, it being in reality founded only on the difference of the notions of Indians who formerly inhabited this country, every one being governed by its curaca, or despotic sovereign. These nations the Yncas subdued, and obliged them to receive the laws of their empire: but the curacas were confirmed in all those hereditary rights of sovereignty compatible with the supreme prerogative. Were we indeed to use the name of province in this sense, every village must be called so; for it may be easily shown, that, in the time of heathenism, every village had its particular curaca: and sometimes, as in Valles, in this jurisdictipn of Popayan, in Maynas, and theMoragnon,there was not only a curaca in each village, with all the appendages of government, but the inhabitants spoke a different language, had different laws and customs, and lived totally independent of each other. But these village? and ancient pro-a vinces

.

Ch. III. SOUTH AMERICA. 333

vinces being now cdmprehended under the jurisdio tion of one single tribunal; and those which before were under a multitude of curacas acknowledging one sovereign, and composing one province, where justice is administered to them in the name of the prince ; and the governments being in juridical affairs dependent on the audience of Quito j they can only be considered as parts of its province. It is therefore requisite, in order to form a proper idea of this country, that I should treat of them in the same circumstantial manner I have already observed in describing the jurisdictions.

I. The first government in the province of Quito, and which terminates it on the north, is that of Po payan. It is not indeed wholly dependent on it, being divided into two jurisdictions, of which that oa the north and east belong to the audience of Santa F6, or the new kingdom of Grenado; Quito hayings only those parts lying towards the south and west; so that, without omitting any thing remarkable irr the whole government, I shall be a little more explicit in my account of the department belonging to Quito.

The conquest of the whole country now containing the government of Popayan, or at least the greater part of it, was performed by that famous commander Sebastian de Belalcazar, who, being governor of the province of Quito, where be had settled a perfect tranquillity, and finished the building of that city, being informed that on the north side of his government lay a country of great extent, and richer than^ the parts he already possessed, prompted by that spirit which had animated the Spaniards to extend their reputation by a series of amazing conquests in this part of the globe, he set out on his enterprise in 1536, at the head of 300 Spaniards ; and after several sharp encounters with the Indians of Pasto, who first opposed his march, he proceeded in his conquests, and reduced the* two principal curacas of that country, Calam-

334 A VOYAGE TO Book VL

bas and Popayan (after whom both the country and chief tpwn were called), two brothers equally respected for their power and military talents. This defeat opened him a passage to future conquests; and the neighbouring: nations, terrified at the success of those illustrious warriors, submitted to the king of Spain. Belalcazar, after these exploits, in the prosecution of his conquests, had several other encounters with Indians, fired with the disdain of submitting to a foreign yoke. His conquests were", however, at last so rapid, that at the close of the same year he pitched his camp in the centre of that country, where the mildness of the climate, the fertility of the soil, and salubrity of the air, conspired to induce him to render it the seat of the Spanish government. Accordingly, in 1537, he laid the foundation of the'first city, which still retains the name of Popayari ; and whilst the place was building, he, to keep his people in exercise, and prevent the Indians he had conquered from forming themselves into a ttew army, or carrying on any clandestine correspondence with those whom his arms had not reached, sent out detachments different ways, with orders to march into the neighbouring countries, that they might prevent the rising of some, and reduce others to obedience.

Belalcazar had scarce finished his new town, when the officers of these corps, on their return, made such a report of the riches andVertility of the country,. that he determined to view it in person, increase ihe number of towns, and by that means secure the po?-\ session of it. Accordingly he continued his march to Cali, where he built a town, which still retains the same name, though in a different country ; for after it was finished in the country oftheGorrones Indians, captain Miguel Munoz soon after removed it, on account of the unhealthiness of the air. Belalcazar founded also another town, called Santa Fc de Aritioquia ; and, charmed with the fertility and

richness

Ch. III. SOUTH AMERICA. 335

richness of the country, he proceeded to people it every where.

Nor was this all 5 for Belalcazar, -in order to enhance the glory and importance of this country, was very desirous of making, a road from Quito to the North Sea, as he had before done to the Pacifick Ocean. Among the discoveries made by his captains whilst he was employed in superintending the building of Popayan, one was, that at no great distance from that place were two of the principal sources of the great river of Magdalena; whence he conceived they might easily find a passage to the North Sea. This opinion the general had the pleasure of finding unanimously agreed to, which induced him to make every disposition for the security and welfare of his conquests, being determined to return by way of that Tiverto Spain, in order to solicit the title of governor of the country which he had discovered, conquered, and peopled. Accordingly the title was conferred on him, and in his government were comprehended all the territories then considered as within his conquests;. but in the year 1730 the country of Choco was separated from it, and made a particular government, though the order was not carried into execution till the year 1735. This part, belonging to the province of the new kingdom of Granada, does not come within our description.

The city of Popayan, one of the most ancient in these pacts, that title having been granted it on the fifth of July 1538, stapds in a large plain, having on the north side an interrupted prospect of the country. Its latitude is 2° 28' north ; lies about two degrees east of the meridian of Quito, on the east side of a mountain of a middling height called M, from the resemblance it bears to that letter; and, being covered with a variety of trees, affords an entertaining prospect: the west side is also diversified with small eminences.

The

336 A VOYAGE TO BooklVL

The city is moderately large, with broad, straight, level streets; and, though not every where paved, are equally convenient, the foot-path near the houses being paved in all parts; and tbfe middle of the streets, being composed of a hard small gravel, is never dirty in jainy weather, nor dusty in the great droughts of this climate; hence the middle of the streets are more convenient for walking than even the pavement itself.

The houses are built of unburnt bricks, as at , Quito, and entirely of the same construction: all the houses of note have a ?tory ; but the others only a ground floor. An idea of the largeness and convenience of the offices and apartments may be formed by their outward appearance, a3 well as the magnificence of the furniture, which is all brought from £o- . rope; the expence of which must be enormouslygreat, as, beside the long voyage, there is a necessity for bringing it a prodigious distance by laud carriage, and subject to unknown dangers in these countries.

The church was erected into acathedral in theyear 1547, and is the only parochial church in the city* Not that its extent is too small for maintaining others; but, having originally been the only church, the prebends could never be brought to allow of its being subdivided, and part of its revenues applied; to the support of other parishes. Here are also conven sof Franciscans, Dominicans, and Augustines, with a college of Jesuits; all of them having churches. In the latter is also a grammar school. The plan of an onh yersity, under the direction of the same fathers, is hi such forwardness, that the charter is already granted-The number of religious belonging to each of these convents is but small, some of them amounting to no more than six or eight. It is, however, very different with regard to one oft he nuaneries, that of the Incar-nation,theprofessednunsbeingbetween forty andfifty* but the whole number, nuns, seculars, and servants

included,

Ch. in. SOUTH AMERICA. 3tf

ippluded, exceeds four hundred. The other nunnery J* of the order of Santa Teresa. All these convents and their churches are pretty large; and if the latter do not dazzle the sight \yith the splendor of their omav ments, they do not want any which decency requires. Here was formerly a convent of bare-footed Carmelites, built on a spacious plain, near the top of the mountain of M, from whence, on account <of the sharpness of the winds, the fathers some time after Temoved to the foot of the mountain. But they were also soon disgusted with their new situation ; the dry end salted fish, salads, and such like, being the only particulars which this country affords, suitahleto the perpetual abstinence of their order; and accordingly, they again retired to their original situation, chusing rather to suffer the inclemency of the weather, than be confined to disagreeable food. This was the case of another convent of the same order founded at La. tacunga, where there is also no fresh fish of any sort to be had, It must, however, he observed, that the Teresian convents, who are under the same? vow of abstinence, are not discouraged by these inconveniences ; nor is there a single instance of any deficiency in the Appointed number of nuns.

From the mountain of M issues a river, which by running through the city, besides other conveniences, carries away all its soil. Two bridges are erected over it, one of stone and the other of wood. The name of this rivej* is del Molino. Its waters have a particular medicinal virtue, whteh they are l thought to derive from the many briars through which they flow. In this mountain is also a,spring of very charming water; but, not being sufficient to supply the whole city, it is conveyed to tne nunneries; and the houses of men of rank. A little above aleagim 1 to the north of Popayan runs the river Cauca. It is very large rind deep, its current rapid, and subject to dangerous swellings in the months of Juoe, July, and Vol. J. Z August j

338 A VOYAGE TO Book VI.

* August; the season when the horrors of the mountains of Cuanacas, where it has its source, are at their height ; so that the passage of it is extremely dangerous, as many travellers, rashly exposing them* selves to the intenseness of its cold, amidst thick snows and violent winds, have fatally experienced. ^r> Th e inhabitants of Popayan and Quito differ very > sensibly in their casts; for as at Quito and the other I towns and villages of its jurisdictions, the most nu-I merous class of people is that of the casts which 1 sprung from the intermarriages of Spaniards and In* { dians; so at Popayan, Carthagena, and other parts \ where Negroes abound, the lower class consists of casts resulting from the marriages of the Whites«nd i Negroes; but very few Indian casts. This is owing to I the great multitude of Negro slaves kept as labourers at the plantations in the country, the mines, and to do the servile offices in the city: so that the mimber of Indians here are very few, compared with th$ other parts of the province. This government has, how-\ ever, many large villages of them; and it isonly^in the ; capital, and other Spanish towns, that they are so I greatly out-numbered by the Negroes. K The inhabitants of Popayan are cofhputelrat ber

tween twenty and twenty-five thousand; and among these are many Spanish families, particularly sixty, known to have been originally descended from very poble families in Spain. It is worth observing here,

I that, whilst crthertt^^ .

* decreasing, fopayan may boast. orajd^jiES^Sse. i I his has indeed nothing mysterious in it; the many * f gold mines worked all "over its jurisdiction, afford employment to the indigent, and, consequently, occasion a great resort of people to these parts.

Popayan is theconstant residence of the governor:' whose office being purely civil, it is not requisite, a* in many others, that be should be acquainted with mi-litary affairs. Within the jurisdiction of his govern*

menV

.

Ch. III. SOUTH AMERICA. 339

ment, all matters, civil, political, and military, arc under his direction. He is also the chief magistrate of the city; the others are the two ordinary alcaldes, chosen annually, and a proper ourober of regidores, the constitution being the same as in other cities.

Here is a chamber of finances, into which are paid -the several branches of the royal revenue; as the tribute of the Indians, the duties on goods, the fifth of {he metals, and the like,*

THEecclesiastical chapter is composed of the bishop, whose revenue is settled at six thousand dollars annually j the dean, who has five hundred j the archdeacon, chanter, rector, and treasurer, who have each four hundred. Tfiis sec is a suffragan of the archbishop-rick of Santa FeTle Bogota.

Pop AYANi lying within the jurisdiction of thejmj^ui- \ \ silion of Carthagcna, has a^ommi^ry from thence, |* Here is also another of the tfroisade; but the auT thority of these two judges extends not beyond the diocese, which is far less than that of the government, a considerable part of it belonging to the arch-bishoprick of Quito.

The jurisdiction of the government of Popayan reaches southward to the river Mayo, and to Ipiales, where it borders on the jurisdiction of the town of San Miguel de Ibarra; north-east it terminates with the province of Antioquia, the last of its provinces, and contiguous to that of Santa F£ ; and nortl.\/ard borders on the government of Carthagena. Its ancient western bounds were the South sea, but it has since been so contracted by the new government of Choco, that the territory of Barbacoas is the only part of it which reaches to the sea; eastward it spreads itself to the sources of the river Cocjueta. which are also thought to be those of the river Oronoco and Negro: its extent is not preciaely determined : but a probable conjecture m^y be made, that from cast to west it is about 80 leagues, and little less from north to south.

Z'a This

/ '

34© A VOYAGE TO Book VI.

This jurisdiction being so large, and containing many towns and villages, is divided into several departs raents, over each of which the principal governor nominates a deputy for the administration of justice, and introduces them to the audience to which they belong, where his nomination is confirmed ; a circumstance necessary to 'procure them all the weight and security in the several departments which are con-ferred on them. Those wtych form the government of Popayan are,

I. Santiago di Cali* VII. Almaguer.

II. Santa F£ de Antioquia. VIII, Caloto.

III. Las Quatro Ciudades. IX. San Juan de Paste

IV. Timana. X. El Raposo. V. Guadalajara de Buga. XI. Barbacoas.

VI. S. Sebastian de la Plata.

In each of these,departments, besides the chief town, ate several others very large and well peopled ? and great numbers of seats anc( farm-houses, whore the number of people employed gives them the appearance of villages rather than private dwellings.

Of the above- mentioned departments, those towards * the north and east of the city of Popayan, as Santa Fe de Antioquia,'Las quatro Ciudades, Timana, and S. Sebastian de la Plata, belong to the audience "and province of Santa F6; the others lying nearer to Quito belong to its province; and those of San Juan de Pasto, and Barbacoas, are within its diocese. ^ , The departments of Cali and Buga* lying ^etwixt | thegovernraeotsof^ Popayan ancTcSoco, thrive," as i being the cbaftn£J qf 'thfe commerce wfiich i^clme3 1 On continUfiHy betwixt those two governrggiij^: \ whereas it is otherwise wiYK that of Almaguer, from \ the smallness of its jurisdiction, and the little traffic there. That of Caloto, as its extent is considerable,

Ch. III. SOUTH AMERICA. 341

so is it rich, and abounds in the products of the earth,

itb^SBlttfl^ the cqunfry every where in-

j^s^sectwijft^farms. That of El Raposo is po the same liappy footing as the two first. That of Pasto is also large, but less wealthy. Barbacoas is very small i and in such a general want of provisions, that, except a few, roots and grains peculiar to hot and moist climates, it is supplied with every thing from other provinces. . .

The temperature of this government is entirely the same as that already spoken of in the other parts of the province of Quito; that is, it varies according to the situation of places; some being fiiore cold jhau hot, others the reverse; and some, throughout the whole year/enjoy a continual spring, as particularly Popa-yan the capital. The like, may be said of the soil, which exuberantly produces' the grains addi frtuits proper to. its situation :',aad the farmi>breed great numbers of horned .cattle and sheep, for tfye coneutnp* tion of tbe towns and country people: and in the ler*- -ritory of Pasto grasiery is a very profitabFe article, large herds and flocks being driven to Quito, where they always find a good market, The jurisdictipn of Popayaa is more subject to tempests of thunder and lightning, and earthquakes, than even Quito; though ^ * in the letter, as we have observed, they are so very &C/ frequent. « No longer ag© than 1735, at one in the^u * afterooon on t^he second of February, the greatest partT^^ of ths town was ruined by one. This remarkable^ ^Jj^l . frequency of tempests.tod earthquakes, in the country &£ of ropayan, tnay beitDnjectured to proceed from the >*#{ great uumber><>f mmes, in which it exceeds all the £^£*<^ others within thfijpnivtnoeJof Quito. - . *: v

But of all tbe p*orts in this jurisdiction QalftlS *s ao- y

counted to be the mofct subject to tempests o^tfijindef * *<*

ft- y^ ljgh*«Mnfff tM^> jbaK^bmiight into yog&e-GaJOtO

bells, which not alew persons use, being firmly persuaded that they have a special virtue against light-

Z 3 ning.

34* A VOYAGE TO B*>k VI.

* ,ning. And indeed so many stories are told on this head, that one is at a loss what to believe. Without giving credit to, or absolutely rejecting all that is reported, leaving every one to the free decision of his own judgment, I shall only relate the most received opinion here. The town of Caloto, the territory of which contains a great number of Indians, of a nation called Paezes, was formerly very large1, but those Indians suddenly assaulting it, soon forced their way in, set fire to the houses, and massacred the inhabitants: among the slain was the priest of the parish, 5vho was particularly the object of their rage, as preaching the gospel, with wbicb they were sensible their savage manner of living did not agree, exposing -the folly Bnd wickedness of their idolatry, and laying .before'them the turpitude of their vices. Even the bell of the church could not escape their rancour, as by its sound it reminded them of their duty to come ' .and receive divine instruction. Afterjnany fruitless -endeavours to breajc it, they thought they could do nothing better than to bury it under ground, th$t, by the sight of it, they might never be put in mind of theprecepts of the gospel, which tended to abridge them of their liberty. On *he news of their revolt, tthe Spapiardsin the neighbourhood of Caloto armed; v and, having taken a smdrt revenge of the insurgents <in a battle, they rebuilt, the town, and having taken up the bdl, they placed it in the steeple of the new church; since which the inhabitants, to their great 1 joy 3nd astonishment, observed, that, when a tempest A<a.ppeared brooding in the air, the tolligg of the bell I kHsperstfd it; andH tbe*weather did not every where ! *grow clear and fair, at least the tempest discharged itself in some other part. The news of this miracle spreading every where, great solicitations were made ibr procuring pieces of it to make clippers for little .bells, in order to enjoy the benefit of Its virtue, which, in a country where tempests are botfosO dreadful and j r frequent^

Ch. HL SOUTH AMERICA. 343

frequent, must be of the highest advantage. And to this Caloto owes its reputation for bells.

In the Valleys of Neyba, and others within the jurisdiction of Popayan, is a very remarkable insect, particularly famous for the power of the small quantity of venom in it. This insect, which is shaped like . a spider, is much less than a bug Its common name is coya, but others call it coyba; its colour is of a fiery red, and, like spiders, it is generally found in the corners of walls, and among the herbage. Its venom is of such a malignity, that, on squeezing the insect, if any happen to fall on the skin of either man or beast, it immediately penetrates into the flesh, and causes large tumours, tfrhich are soon succeeded by death? The only remedy hitherto known, is, on the first appearance of a swelling, to singe the party all over the body with the flame of straw, or long grass, growing in those plains. In order to this, the Indiana of thaf country lay hold of the patient, some by the feet, and others by the hands, and with great dexterity perform the operation, after which the person is reckoned to be out of danger. But it is to be observed, that though this insect be so very noxious, yet squeezing it between the palms of the hands is attended with no bad consequence: from whence the plain inference is, that the callus,'usual on the hands of most people^ prevents the venom from reaching the blood. Accordingly the Indian muleteers, to ♦ please the curiosity of the passengers, squeeze them betwixt the palms; of their hands, though unquestionably, should a person of a delicate hand make a trial, the effects would be the same as on any other part of the body *. *

Nature is equally admirable in her works, and in her care of them. Man is endued with discernment,

'* The Brazilians say, oil and salt is a certain cure for the poison of the coyba, A.

Z 4 know.

344 - . A VOYAGE TQ Book VI

knowledge, and observation, that be may avoid what* - ever is liurtfifl to his being; and the irrational species receive the like notices from instinct, and are not less observant than man. The people who travel along these valleys, where they are so much in danger of these coyas, according to the warning before given them hy the Indians who attend them, though they feel something stinging them or crawling on their neck or fece, are careful not to scratch the part, nor even so much as lift up their bands to it, the coya being of such a delicate texture th$t it would immediately burst: and as there is no danger whilst they do not eject the humour in them, the person acquaints some one of the company with what he feels, and points, to the place; if it be a coya, the other blows it away. The beasts, who are not capable of such warning, are yet by instinct taught a precaution against the danger which may result from these insects in the pastures; for before they offer to touch the herbage, they blow on it with all their force in order to disperse any of these pernicious vermin; and when their smell ac* quaints them that they are near a nest of coyas* they immediately leap back and run to some other part* Thus they secure themselves from the venfcm of these insects, though sometimes a mule, after all its blowing, has been known to take in some with its pasture, on which, after swelling to a frightful degree^ they have expired on the spot.

Among the plants of the country of Popayan, in the jurisdiction of Titnana, grows the cuca or coca, an herb so esteemed by the Indians in some provinces of Peru, that they would part with any kind of pro- . visions, the most valuable metals, gems, or any thing else, rather than want it. It grows on a weak stem, which for support twists itself round another stronger vegetable, like the vine. Its leaf is about an inch ahd % half w two inches in length, and extremely smooth; the u$e the Indians make of it is for chewing, "mixing

it

_

Ch. UL SOUTH AMERICA. 345

it with a kind of chalk or whitish earth called mambi. They pi^t into their mouth a few cuca leaves* and a suitable portion of mambi, and, chewing these toge* therV at first spit out the saliva which that mandur cation causes, but afterwards swallow it; and .thus move it from one side of the mouth to the other, till its substance be quite drained; then it is thrown away, but immediately replaced by fresh leaves* This herb is so nutritive and invigorating, that they labour whole days without any thing else; and on the want of it, they find a decay in their strength : they also add, that it preserves thp teeth sound, and fortifies the stomach.

In the southern provinces of Peru great quantities of it are produced, being cultivate^ by the Indians; tuAthat growing wild in the neighbourhood of Cusco is accounted the best of any. It makes no small vc~ tide in trade, particularly vast quantities of it av$ carried to the mine-towns, that the owners of the mines may have wherewithal to funnish the. Indians, who otherwise could not be brought to work, or would not -have strength to go through* it.

This coca is exactly the same with the betel of the j£ast Indies. The plants the leaf, the manner of using it, its qualities, are all the same: and the eastern nations are «o, less fond of their betel than the Indians of feru and Popayan are of their coca; But in the otbe^ parts o{ the province of QuitQ, as it is not produced, so neither is it used.

In Pasto, one of the Riost southern districts of Popayan, are certain trees which yield a resin called mopa~oiqpa| and of this is made a varnish, which be* sides its exquisite beauty will bear boiling water, and even acids% The method of applying it is, to dissolve pome of the .resio in one's mouth, and then wet the peftcii with it * afterwards it is dipped ia tie colour which is to- be laid on, and when dried has all the lustre of the Chinese Jaque, but with tbip superior

quality,

$46 AVO1TAGET0 BookW.

quality, that it never wears off, nor becomes moist, though rubbed with spittle. The cabinets, tables* &c. made, by the Indians of this country, and thus varnished, are carried to Quito, where they are highly Valued.

Pofayan is one of the best tradingcoun tries within

theprpvffice of Quito, as aUthlmtWfet^of Sganish goods from Carthagfin^ are consigned thitfier^affci / * lorvfcnfecf to Quito: and great numbers of traders go v* their rounds through the several jurisdictions, to the * great con veniendy of the towns and villages, which thus * supply themselves. Tteftidgft \W\* transitory nonanwrrtf, it has another reciprocal with Quito, to which itjex^> ports horned cattfe arid mules, and receives in return * * cloths and bays. Ks active commerce consists in dried beef7 salted pork, roll-tobacdo, hogs-lard, rum, rot-ton, pita, ribbons, and other small wares, which are brought to Choco. and there exchanged for gold ; sugar and snulFare imported from Santa F£and sent to Quito; and th6 returns to Santa Fe are home-made cloths and bays. Here is also another traffic, which consists in bartering silver for gold ; for, there being an abundanceof the latter, andascarcity of the former, silver is brought to exchange for gold; of which great profit is made by converting it into doubloons : the like is also practised at Choco and Barbacoas, which are in th« samfe case as to metals.

Popayan being the centre of all these several kinds A pf^ftllll^Pc^; "tBE" m bst weal thy persons dTfhe wKBIe jurisdiction are here, and five or six of its inhabitants are reckoned to be masters of above 100,000 dollars; twenty to be worth betwixt 40 and 80,000, besides many of smaller, yet handsome, fortunes: and this exclusive of their farms and mines, with which this country abounds. The former are the same with those I have had occasion to mention in the Other parts of this province, according toihe quality of the temperature*

West / >

Ch. IIL SOUTH AMERICA. 3+7

West of the western Cordillera of the Andes, is the government of Atacames, which on this quarter borders on the jurisdictions of the corregmientos of Quito and the town of San Miguel de ibarra; northward on the department of Barbacoas in, the government of Popayan ; its western boundary is the South Sea 5 and southward it joins the territory of Guayaquil. Thus it reaches along the coast from the island of Tumaco, and the house of Husrnal, which lie in one degree and a half north latitude, to the bay of Caracas, and the mountains of Balsarao, in 34 rain, south latitude.

The country of this jurisdiction lay a long time uncultivated; and if not wholly, at least the greatest part of it, unknown; for, after its conquests by Sebastian de Belatcazar, the peopling of it was neglected, either because the Spaniards we*e thore intent 1431 regulating their conquests than in improving what they had got, or because the country did hot seem to them so proper for a settlement as the sierra or mountainous parts; or perhaps they judged it barren and unhealthy* And. though care was taken to furnish Qtiito with priests, to preserve its Indian inhabitants in an adherence to those precious truths they had embraced;, yet it was with the total neglect of that im'provemettt of the country, which was seen in ail the other parts where the Spaniards had settled. Thus these people, though Christians by profession, remain in that rusticity and savageness natural to inen who are out of the way of rational conversation and commerce to civiliz* them; an Indian only coming now ahd then from their woods with aji, acbote, and fruits, to sell at Quito, where they seem struck with amazement it the sight of such a concourse of people at one plate; it being indeed far beyond what could be. imagmod by such as seldom or never came to any distance from their poor cottages, dispersed and shut up iq tfre woods, and'living among the wild beasts.

Thqvqh

c '

34« , A VOYAGE TO Book VL

. Though the country of Atacsmes lay thus neglected for some years, after the introduction of the Christian religion, and its inhabitants bad performed homage to the king of Spain; yet the importance of making settlements here, and cultivating the ground, for facilitating the commerce betwixt the province of Quito and the kingdom of Terra Firma, was not unknown, as thereby an end would be put to the in* conveniences of carrying it on by the way of Guaya* tjuil; which being a great circuit, the trade suffered in many particulars; and indeed could not long have subsisted, without makihg a settlement of Spaniards in Atacaxnes; vs thus the way would be much shorter for the commerce betwixt' Terra Firma and Quito, which now conveniently supplies it with provisionsof all kinds, and receives European goods in return.

Pursuant to these vieira, Paul Durango Delga-dillo was m the year/6ai appointed governor of Atacames and Rio de laslEsmaraldas. He had sdme .years before Wintered into a contract with the Marquis jdc Mohte&Claros. fdr opening a way from the town , iof £an< Miguel de Ibarra to the river Santiago, one $£ those which traversed the country belonging to the jurisdiction of itivk government y and likewise to people and cultivate it. Biit failing of fulfilling the agreement, though he was not wanting in endeavours, the government in the year/i6a6 was taken from him and conferred on Francisco Perez Menacho, who however had no better success than he who had been displaced*

After these two, came Juan Vinoendb Justiniant in the same character; but he, seeing the insuperable difficulties according to the methods of his prede* cessors, confidently offered to make the way by the river Mira, but also failed in the execution ; and Don ' Hernando de Soto Calderon, who began it in the year 2713, and rather mone sanguine in his assurances of success than the former, also disappointed the general

expecta*

Ch. HI. SOUTH AMERICA.. 349

expectation ; and thus the so much desired communication of the province of Quito $nd the kingdom of Terra Fir ma remained as it was till the year 1735* when Don Pedrp Vicente Maldonado, being invested with the same powers as his predecessors, surpassed them in execution; and in 1741 laid open a direct comrrtunicafion betwixt Quito and the Rio He las Esmaraldas; and having verified his proceeding before the audiences, and obtained their approbation, here-turned to Spain, to solicit the confirmation of his employment as governor, and the rewards specified in the contract. On the favourable report ot the su-prenrte council of the Indies, his majesty, in 1746, confirmed him as governor of that country, which, in X747, was formally erected into a government, by the commission then given to the above gentleman,- who by his skill arid resolution had so well deserved it.

The towns within the government of Atacames are at present but small and poor, havirtg hitherto lain out of the way of traffic, and the country but little cultivated. However, this governor takes such measures for the improvement of it, that already the face of things begins to alter greatly fat; the better; and the fertility of the soil will naturally invite settlers, and the communication being opened through it betwixt the kingdom of Terra Firma and the province of Quito, will cause a circulation of money. In the mean time this government contains 20 towns, five of which are on the sea-coast, and stand the firtt in the following list: the others are inland places.

I. Tumfico, VI. Lachas.

II. Tola. VII. Cayapas.

III.SanMatheodeEsme- VIII. Inta.

raldas. IX. Gualea.

IV. Atadimes. X. Nanegal.

V. La Canoa. * XI. Tambiilo.

XII. Nw

3SQ A VOYAGE TO Book VI.

XII. Niguas. XVII. Cansa Coto, -

XIII. Cachiltecta. *XVIU. Santa Domingcu

XIV. Mindo. XIX. San Miguel. XV. Y£mbe. XX. J\Tono.

XVI. Cocaniguas,

The inhabitants of the five towns are Spaniards, Mestizos, Negroes, and Casts, which sprung from these three species. Those of the other fifteen are in general Indians, having-few Spaniards, Mulattos, or Negroes, among them. With the spiritual concerns €leven priests are invested, who continually reside in the great towns, and occasionally visit the otters, where are chapels of ease.

The temperature of Atacames is like that of Guayaquil, and accordingly produces the same kinds of vegetables, grains, and fruits, though somet>f them to a much greater perfection; for, by lying higher, it is not subject to the inundations proceeding from the swell-ings of rivers : and thus the cacaco, in its plantations and forests, having all the^moisture that plant delights in, without being drowned, is much superior to the other in size, oilmess, and delicacy of flavour. It likewise produces in great abundance vanillas, achote, sarsaparilla, and indigo; also a great deal of wax is made here: and the forests are so thick set with trees of a surprising bulk and loftiness, as to be impenetrable ; and these trees, as in the forests of Guayaquil, are of an infinite variety; some fitter for land works, others for naval uses, and some excellent for both.

CHAP.

Ch, IV.; SOUTH AMERICA.

CHAP. IV.

Description of the Governments of Qtiixos, and Macas \ with an Account of Jean de Bracamoros, the Discovery and Conquest of it*

NEXT to the go^rnmcnt of Popayan, wbich has been treated of in the foregoing chapter, follow those of Quixos and Macas, on the east side of the Cordillera of the Andes; it is divided into two districts, Quixos being the north part of the govern-ment, and Macas the south, ivith the country of Camelos lying betwixt them. As their situation and other circumstances require that each should be treated distinctly, (shall begin with Quixos, which on the north side borders on the jurisdiction of ropayanj eastward it reaches to the river Aguarico, and westward is separated from the jurisdictions of Quito, La* tacunga, and the town of San Miguel de Ibarra, by

v the Cordilleras q( CQtopaxi and Cayamburo. The first discovery of the country of Quixps is owing to Gonzalo Diaz de Pineda, in the year 1536, wbo^ among the officers sent from Popayan by Sebastian de Bel alcazar, to trace the course of the river of Magda- ' lena, and take a survey of the country adjacent to that which had been conquered, was appointed to make discoveries in these parts, which he pprformed with great care and dispatch; and finding it to abound in

f gold, and cassia trees, he returned to his commander; and on h^s report, Gonzalo Pizaro, in the year 1539, at that time govojnor of Quito, 'marched to it witlj a design of reconnoitring its whole extent, and making settlements. But, his expedition miscarrying, th*» conquest of this country, though frctai Pineda's report very desirable, was suspended till the yeal; 1549, when the marquis de Canete, viceroy of Peru, gave a commission to Gil Ramirez Davalos, a man of

undaunted

\

3$* A VOYAGE TO Book VI.

undaunted courage wfien interest was in View, for reducing the Indians and making settlements in the country; which he accordingly accomplished, and founded the town of Baeza, the capital of the government, in the year 1550; and it was soon followed by other towns and villages, still existing; but with very little improvement beyond their first state.

The town of Baeza, though the most ancient of the country, and long the residence of the governors, has always remained very small, which is pwing to the building of the two cities of wila and Archidona, still subsisting, and at that time the chief object of the attention of the settlers, Baeza'being left as first built; and these, so far from having increased suitably to the title of cities, which was given them at their foundation, remain on their first footing. The cause of the low state of the places here is the nature of the country, which, in air, fertility, and other enjoyments of life, being inferior to that of Quito, few settle here who can five in the other. Baeza is indeed extremely declined, consisting only of eight or nine thatched houses, with about twenty inhabitants, of all ages, 60 that from the capital it is become annexed to the parish of Papallacta, in whioh town resides the priest, wRo has besides under his care another town called Maspu. This decay was no more than a consequence of the removal of the governor, who of late has re-sided at Archidona.

The city of Archidona is a small plac^, lying in one degree and a few minutes S. of the equinoctial, and about one degree 50 minutes E. of the meridian of Quito. The houses are of wood, covered with straw, and the whole number of its inhabitants is reckoned at betwixt 650 and 700, consisting of Spa* niards, Indians, Mestizos, antf Mulattos; it has only one priest,under whose care are also three other towns, called Misagualli, Tena, and Napo; the last receives its name from the river on the borders of which it 1 stands;

t

Ch.IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 353

stands; and this situation proved its ruin on the 30th of Nov. 1744, when, by the explosion of the Volcano, or Cotopaxi, of which a more particular -account shall be given in another place, this river became so swelled by the torrents of melted snow and ice, that it entirely bore down the town ofNapo, aod tbs houses were carried along bykhe impetuosity of the current.

The city of wila, but very much below that title, stands on 00 degr. 44 min. S. lat. and near a degr. 2,0 min. E. of Quito. It is so much less than the former, that its inhabitants scarce amount to 300 of both sexes. Its houses are built of the same materials. It has also a priest, whose ecclesiastical jurisdiction comprehends six towns, some of them in largeness and number of inhabitants not inferior to the city. These are.

I. La Conception. IV. Motte. II. Loreto. V. Cota Pini.

III. San Salvador. VI. Santa Rosa.

The foregoing towns constitute the chief part of this government; but it also includes the towns of the mission of Sucumbios, the dhief of which is San Mw guel. At the beginning of this century they were ten, but are now reduced to these five :

I. San Diego de los Palmares. II. San Francisco de los Curiquaxes. III.,San Joseph, de los Abuccties. IV. San Christoval de los Yaguages. \ V. San Pedro de Alcantara de la Cocao, or Nariguera.

The inhabitants of the two cities, and the villages in the dependencies, and those of Baeza, are obliged to be constantly upon their guard against the infidel Indians, who frequently commit depredations among their houses apd plantations. They compose different

Vol. L A a ' and

354 A VOYAGE TO Boo* Vfr

and numerous nations; and are so dispersed all over the country, that every village is under continual ap-» prehensions from those which live in its neighbour^ hood : and when an aotion happens between the inhabitants and those Indians to the advantage of the former, all they get by it is to return quietly to thtir dwellings with a few prisoners, no booty being to be had from a people who live without any settlement; and from mere savageness make no account of those things in which the bulk of mankind place their happiness. Their method in these incursions is, after an interval of apparent quiet and submission, to steal up to the Spanish settlements at a time when they have reason to conclude that the inhabitants are off their guard; and if their intent be answered, they fall to pillaging and plundering; and, having got what is nearest at hand, retire with all speed. This perpetual danger may also be reckoned among the causes'which Jiave hitherto kept the government in such lo# circumstances* .

Th e temperature of all this country is hot and very moist. The rains arc almost continual *r so that the only difference betwixt it, Guayaquil, and Porto Bello, is, that the summer is not so long: but the distempers and inconveniencies of the climate are the same. The country is covered with thick woods ; and in these are some trees of a prodigious magnitude. In the south and west part of the Jurisdiction of Quixos is the canela or cinnamon-tree, which, asi have before observed, being discovered by Gonzalo Diaz de Pineda, he from them called the country Canelos, which name it still retaias; A greac quantity of it is cut for the necessary consumption, both in tKc province of Quito and in Valles. The quality of this cinnamon does not come up to that of the' East Indies ; but in every other particular very much resembles it; the snocll, its circumference, and thick-rt€S*, being.nearly the same r the colour,is-something* - ; fcrowger,,

Ch. IV. S013TH AMERICA. 35$

browner* the great difference ly tog in the taste, that of Quixos being more pungent, and without the exquisite flavour of that of the East Indies. The leaf is the same, and has all the delicate smell of the bark; but the flower and seed surpass even those of India; thfc former particularly is of an incomparable fragtaney* from the abundance of aromatic parts it contains'; and this favours an opinion* that the trees duly cultivated might be made iti every respect equal to those of the island of Ceylon.

The other products in the island ofQuitos are the very same with those in all the other lands in the same climate as this government. The like may be said of fruits, roots, and grains, as wheat, bariey, land others, which, requiring a cold air, seldom thrive much in any of an opposite quality.

The other district of Macas is bounded on the east by the government of Maynas; southward by that of JBracamoros and Yaguarsongo; and westward,theeast Cordillera of the Andes divides it from the jurisdiction of Rio Bamba and Cuen$a. Its chief town bears the splendid title of the city of Mucas, being the common name given to the whole country. And this is better known than its proper ancient name of SeVilla del Oro. It Hes in two degrees thirty minutes S* latitude, and forty minutes JB. of Quito. Its houses, which do not exceed 130, are built of timber, and thatched. Its inhabitants are reckoned at about 1 200; but these, and it is the same all over this district, are . x generally Mestizos with Spaniards. The other towns belonging to this jurisdiction are s

I. San Miguel de Narbaes. V. Zuna.

II. Barahonas. VI. Payra.

III. Yuquipa. VII. Copueno.

IV. Juan Lopez. VlII. Aguayos*

The spiritual government of them all is lodged in

two priests; one of whom residing in the city had the

A a a care

356 a Voyage to bookvi,

care of the four first: and to the latter, who lives at Zuna, belong that town and the three others. At the conquest* and for some time after, .this country was very populous, and, in honour of the great riches drawn from its capital, was distinguished by the name ofSevilla del Oro; but at present only the memory, of its former opulence remains. Such an extreme declension proceeded from an insurrection of the natives, who, after swearing allegiance to the king of Spain, took arms, and made themselves masters of the city of Logrono, and a town called Guamboya, both in the samejurisdictioD, and very rich. These devastations have so discouraged any further settlement there, that the whole country lies as a Waste* no money goes current in it, and the only way the wretched inhabitants have to provide themselves with necessaries is by bartering their home products.

The nearness of Macas to the Cordillera of the Andes causes a sensible difference betwixt its temperature and that of Quixos: for though it be also a woody country, the diversity betwixt tj>e two most distant seasons of the year is manifest; and as its territory is different from that of the jurisdiction of Quito, Sfo the variety in the periods of the season \s also great. Thus winter begins here in April, and lasts till September, which is the time of summer betwixt the Cordilleras : and at'Macas the fine season is in September, and is the more delightful on account of the winds which are then mostly northward; and thus charged with the frigorific particles which they have swept away from the snowy mountains over which they have passed. The atmosphere*is clear; the sky'serene; the earth clothed in its varioas beauties; and the inhabitants, gladdened by such pleasing objects, rejoice that the horrors of winter are passfed> as they are no less dreadful and detrimental h6fe than at Guayaquil.

In grains and other products which require a hot

apd

Ch.IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 357

and moist temperature, the country is very, fruitful ; but one of the chief Occupations of the country people here, is the culture of tobacco, which, being of an excellent kind, is exported in rolls all over Peru. Sugar-canes also thrive well here ; and consequently cotton. But the dread of the wild Indians, who have often ravaged their country, discourages them from planting any more than what just suffices for present use; they being here in the same unhappy situation as in Quixos, the villages having in their neighbour, hood bands of those savage Indians ; and when "they imagine them to be furthest off, are often suddenly assaulted by them, so that they must be ready at every instant to take arms,

Amo*jg the infinite variety of trees which crowd the woods of this country, one of the most remarkable is the storax, the gum of which is of a most exquisite , fragrancy; but is rare, the trees growing in places at some distance from the villages ; and it is dangerous going to them, by reason of the savage Indians, who lie in wait like wild beasts. The like may be said with regard to the mines of Polvos Azules, or Ultra-marine, from which, by reason of that danger, very little is brought; but a finer colour cannot be imagined.

The territory belonging to Macas also produce^ cinnamon trees, which, as the reverend Don Juan Joseph de Lozay Acuna, priest of Zuna, a person of eminent learning, and perfectly versed in natural history, told me, is of a superior quality to that of Ceylon, here known by the name of Spanish cinnamon ;'and this was confirmed to me by many other persons of judgment. This cinnamon visibly differs from that of Quixos, which, as the same person informed me, proceeds from the full exposure of the Maca trees to the sun, its rays not being intercepted by the foliage of any other trees near tbem ; and these

A a 3 also

$5» A VOYAGE TO Book VI

also are at a distance from the roots of other trees, which deprive them of part of the nourishment necessary to bring it to perfection. And this opinion is confirmed by a cinnampn tree planted either accidentally or by design, near the city of Macas, the bark of which, and especially the blossom, in its taste, fragrancy a#d aromatic power, far exceeds that of the East Indies.

Great quantities of copal are brought from Macas, also wild wax ; but the latter of little value, for, besides being reddish, it. never indurates ; and thesmell of it, when made into candles, and these Lighted, is very strong and disagreeable i and that of Guayaquil and Valles no better. Indeed all the wax in. thosef Countries cannot come into competition with those of Europe; though it must be observed, that there » uo smajl difference in the bee, which in this country is much larger, and its colour inclinable to, black. However, it might be made something better, if the inhabitants were acquainted with the art of cleansing and working it as in Europe; and if it could not be brought to equal the European., a greater con*i Science might be given to it, which would be no small advantage.

The government* which on the south limits the jurisdiction of the audience of Quito, a»d follows next to Macas, is that of Jaen, which was discovered and qubdued by Pedro deVafg#rain the year 1538, whom Hernando Pizarro had appointed to command in that expedition. Afterwards Juaa de Saliva? entered the country, with the title of governor of it; and he having by his courage and courtesy reduced the Indians, and ingratiated himself with them, a more formal settle* ment was made, and several towas btiijt, which, are Still existing, though in no better condition, than thoso of Macas and Quixos. Some sliJi retain the appel* Jation of city, not that tbeir? largeness, number.of in*

habitants,

Ch.IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 359

habitants, orwealth, become the title, but on afccount ^f the privileges annexed tof it.

At the time of the conquest this government was known by the names of Igualsongo and Pacamoros, since corrupted into Yaguarsongo and Bracamoros; the names of the government conferred on Juan de Salinas. And thus they continued to be called for many years, till the Indians of both territories in a sudden revolt destroyed the principal towns. Those which were Spared, after passing near an age in wretchedness and barbarism, happily recovered themselves, became united to the city of Jaen, as part of a go-rernment, with the title of Jaen de' Bracamoros; and the title of governor of Yaguarsongo was, asv before related, kept up by being annexed to the corregidor of Loja.

The town of Jaen, with the addition of Pacamoros, or Bracamorbs, from the reunion of the towns of that country to it, was founded in the year 1549, by Diego Palomino. It stands in the jurisdiction of Chaca-Inga, belonging to the province of Chuquimayo, and is the residence of the governor. It \k situated on the north shore of the river Chinchipe, at its conflux into the Maranon. It lies in about five degrees 25 min. S. lat. and its long, may be conjectured to be very little distant from, the meridian of Quito, if not under it. The account given of the mean condition of the cities of Macas and Quixos also suits Jaen. Wc must however observe^ that it is much more populous, its inhabitants being, of all ages and sexes, computed at 3 or 4000; though these for the most part are Mestizos, with some Indians, but very few Spaniards.

Juan de Salinas likewise found in his government of Yaguarsongo three other cities, still subsisting, but small, mean, And defenceless, like Jaen. Their names are Valladolid, Loyola, and SaniagodelasMontagnas: the last borders on the government of Minas, and is

A a 4 only

36o A VOYAGE. TO Boo* VI.

only separated from its capital, the city of Boija, by the Pongo.de Manceriche. In this country of Jaen de Bracamoros are several small villages:

I. San Joseph. VI. Ghinchipe.

II. Chito. VII. Chyrinos.

III. Sender. * VIII. Pom&ca.

IV. Charape. IX. Tomepdnda. V. Pucari. X. Chuchunga.

, The iqhabitants of which ^are mostly Indians, with some Mestizos, but no great number of either.

Though Jaen stands on the bank of the river Chinchipe, and so near the Maranon, yet the latter is not navigable up to it; so that those who are to embark on it go by land from Jaen to Chuchunga, a small place on another river of that name, and in 25 deg. 29 min. lat. whence they fall down into theMa-.ranon. This town, which may be accounted the port for Jaen, lies four days jpurney from the city, which is the method of calculating the distances here; the difficulties of the roacf increasing them far beyond what they are in reality, that not seldom that which on good ground might be travelled in an hour or two, takes up a half and sometimes a whole day.

The climate of J^en, and the same may be said o£ the whole jurisdiction of this government, is like that of Quixos, except that the rains are neither so lasting nor violent; and, like that of Macas, it enjoys some interval of summer; when the heats, tempests, and aH the inconveniences of winter, abate. The soil is fruitful in all the grains and products agreeable to its temperature. The country is full of wild trees, particularly the cacao, the fruit of which, besides the ex-» uberance of it on all the trees, is equal to that cul? tivated in plantations; but is of little use here for want of consumption: and the carriage of it to distant parts would be attended with such charges, as to prejudice

Ch. IV. SOUTH AMERICA. 361

judice its-salo* Thus the fruits rot on the trees, or are eaten by monkeys or other creatures.

At the time of its first discovery, afid the succeeding conquest, this country was in great repute for its riches; and not undeservedly, vast quantities of gold being brought from, it. But these gains were soon brought to a period by the revolt of the Indians, though in the opinion of many, who look upon those people to be a part of the human species no less than themselves,the insurrection was owing to the excessive rigour of the Spaniards, in making them, work in the mines under insupportable fatigues. At present, all the gold collected here is by Indians washing the sands of the rivers during the time of the inundations ; and thus find gold dust, or small grains * of gold, with which they pay the tributes, and purchase necessaries ; and they make so Kttle account of this metal, that, though by a proper industry they might get a considerable quantity, it is fcnly the poorest Indians that live near the settlements who practise it : as for the independent Indians, they give themselves no concern about it.

The jurisdiction of this government produces \xt particular vast quantities of tobacco ; tl>e cultivation of it indeed is the chief occupation of all the inhabitants. After steeping the plant in hot mead, or decoctions of fragrant herbs, in order to improve its flavour, and the- better to preserve its strength, it is dried, and tied up in the form of asaucisson, each of a hundred leaves. Thus it is exported into Peru, alt over the province of Quito, and the kingdom of Chili, where no other is used for smoking, in cornets of paper, according to the custom of all these countries. This great vogue it owes to the manner of pre-paring the leaves, which gives it a particular relish, and a strength to its smoke, that is very agreeable to those who are fond of that amusement. The country also produces a great deal qf cotton ; likewise large

breeds

36* A VOYAGE TO Book VI,

breeds of mules; and these three articles constitute the advantageous traffic which this government carries on with the jurisdiction of its province and the other parts of Peru.

In the countries of Jaen -de Bracamoros, Quixos, and Macas, are seen great numbers of those wild ani* reals, a description of which has been given in treating of other countries of a like climate. But these, besides tigers, arc infested with bastard lions, bears, ' dantas or grand bestias, (an animal of the bigness of a bullock, and very swift, its colour generally white, and its skin very much valued for making buff leather ; in the middle of its head is a born bending inward). Those three kinds of wild beasts are unknown in the other countries ; and that they are known here, is Owing to the proximity to the Cordilleras, where they breed, as in a cold climate adapted to their nature : whence they sometimes come down ipto the neighbouring countries ; biafc without this circumstance of lying so near th6 mountains, they would never be seen. Among the reptiles in the country is the maca, a snake which the Indians distinguish by the name of curi-mullinvo, having a shining spotted skm like that of the tiger, curi in the Indian language signifying gold ; it is wholly covered .with scales, and makes a frightful appearance, its head being out of all proportion to the body, and J>as two rows of teeth, and fangs like those of a large dog. The wild 1 ndians, as an ostentatious mark of their intrepidity, and to give them a more terrible appearance, paint on their targets figures of this snake, the bite of whieh is incurable $ and wherever it has seized, it never lets go its hold1; which the Irk dians would also intimate by their device.

CHAR

C«. V. SOUTH AMERICA, 363

CHAP.V.

Government of Maynas, and of the River Mdranon\ or that of the Amamns ; its Discovery, Course, and , that of the Rivers running into it.

HAVING treated of the governments of Popayait and Jaen de Braeamoros, which are the nor^ thern limits of the province of Quito ; as also of Atacames, which is its western boundary ; I now pro* ceedto the government ofMaynas, the eastern limit of its jurisdiction. This is particularly entitled to a separate and succinct description, as the great river Maranon flows through it.

The governmentof Maynas liescontigaonstothoso of Quixos and Jaen de Bracamoros, towards the east* In its territories are the sources of those rivers* which, after rapidly traversing a vast extent, form, by their conflux, the famous river of the Amazons, known aU so by the name of Maranon. The shores of this and many rivers which pay it the tribute of their waters, environ and pervade the government ofMaynas. Its limit3, both towards the north and south, are little known, being extended far among the courrtriea of iafidel Indians ; so that all the account which can be expected is from the missionaries employed in the conversion and spiritual government of the wild na* tions which inhabit it* Eastward it joins, the poshes* Svon&ofthe Portuguese, from which it is separated by tihe famous line of demarcation, the boundary between the Spanish and Portuguese possessions.

Were I to confine myself in general to the extent q£ the government of Mayaas, my description would be very imperfect, and want the noblest object of the reader's curiosity, a description of the river of the Amazons; a subject no less entertaining than tin* known; aad the more difficult of obtaining a thorough

know* .

3«4 A VOYAGE TO Book VI.

knowledge of, from its lyiog so very remote* This description I shall divide into the three following beads, which shall contain its source, and the princw pal rivers whereof it is composed ; its course through the vast tracts of land it waters; its first discoveries, and the subsequent voyages made on it; in order to jive an adequate idea of this prince of rivers * and at the same time a more circumstantial account of the N government of Maynas.

I. Of the Source of the River Maranon^ and of the many others which compose it.

As, among the great number of roots by which nourishment is conveyed to a stately tree, it is difficult from the great length of some, and the magnitude of others, to determine precisely that from which the product is derived ; so the same perplexity occurs in discovering the spring of the river Maranon ; all the provinces of Peru as it were emulating each other in sending it supplies for its increase, together with many torrents which precipitate themselves from the Cordilleras, and, increased by the snow and ice, join to form a kind of sea of that which at first hardly de* serves the name of a ri ver.

The sources by which this river is increased are so numerous, that very properly every one which issues out of the eastern Cordillera of the Andes, frdm the government of Popayan, where the river Caqueta or Yupura has its source, to the province of Guanuco, within thirty leagues of Lima, may be reckoned ^mong the number. For all the streams that run eastward from this chain of mountains, widening as they advance from the source by the conflux of others, form those mighty rivers, which afterwards unite in the Maranon and though some traverse a larger distance from their source, yet others, which rise nearer, by receiving in their short course a greater number of

brooks, ,

Ch. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 365

brooks, and consequently discharging a quantity of water, may have an equal claim to be called the principal source. But without confidently determining this intricate point, I shall first consider the sources of those which run into it from the more remote distances, and next those which precipitate themselves down several cascades formed by the crags of the Andes, and, after being augmented by others it re* ceives, join the Maranon in a more copious stream ; leaving it to the reader to determine which is the original source.

The most received opinion, concerning the remotest source of the river Maranon, is that which places it in the jurisdiction of Tarma, issuing from the lake of Lauricocha, near the city of Guanuco, in 1 i deg. S. lat. whence it directs its course S. almost to 12 deg. through the country belonging to this jurisdiction ; and, forming insensibly a circuit, flows eastward through the country of Juaxa; where, after being precipitated from the east side of the Cordillera of the Andes, proceeds northward ; and, leaving the jdrisdictions of Mayabamba and Chacha-poyas, it continues its course to the city of Jaen, the lat. of which in the foregoing chapter has been placed in 5 deg. 21 min. There, by a second circuit, it runs to* ward the £. in a continual direction ; till at length it falls into the ocean, where its mouth i3 of such an enormous breadth, that it reaches from the equinoctial to beyond the first deg. of north lat. Its distance * from Lauricocha lake to Jaen, its windings included, is about 200 leagues ; and this city being 30 deg. to the W. of its mouth, is 600 leagues from it, which, with the several circuits and windings, may without excess be computed at 900 such leagues : so that it* whole course, from Lauricocba to its influx into the ocean, is at least 1100 leagues.

Yet the branch which issues from Lauricocha is not the only one flowing from these parts into theMa-

raaoni

%Zt A VOYAGE TO Boo* VL

ranoi* ; tior is it the most southern river which dis-' charges its waters into that of the Amazons; for S. of that lake, not far from Asangara, is the source of the river which passes through Guamanga. Also in the jurisdictions of Vilcas and Andaguaylas are two others, which) after running for some time separately, unite their streams, and discharge themselves int6 the river issuing from the lake Lauricocha. Ahother rises in the province of Chimbi-Vilcas. And lastly, one still further to the south, is the river Apurimac, which, directing its course to the northward, passes through the country of Cusco, not far from Lima-Tambo; and after being joined by others, falls into the Maranon about 120 leagues east of the junction of the latter with the river Santiago. But here it is of such a width and depth, as to leave a doubt whether it insinuates itself into the Maranon, or the Ma* ranon pays tribute to the, Ucayale, as it is called in that part $ since at the conflux its impetuosity forces the former to alter the straight direction of its course, and form a curve. Some will have the Ucayale to be the true Maranon, and found their opinion on the remoteness of its source, and the quantity of its waters, which equals at least, if it does not exceed, that of Lauricocha.

h* the space intercepted between the junction of the Maranon and the river Santiago, are the Pongo de Manzeriche, and the mouth of the river Ucayale; and about mid-way betwixt them the river Guallaga, which has also its source in the Cordilleras, east of the province of Guamaoga, and falls into the Maranon. One of the rivers contributing to its increase has its rise in the mountains of Moyo-Bamba -9 and on its banks, in the middle of its course towards the Gual-. laga, staqds a small village called Llamas; which, according to the most credible accounts, was the place where Pedro de Orsica embarked with his people on

.hid

i ' '

Ch. V. SOtTH AMERICA. 367

his expedition for the discovery of the Maranon, and the conquest of the adjacent countries.

Eastward ,of Ucayale, the Maranon receives the river Yabari, and afterwards four others, namely* the Yutay, Yurua, Tefe, and Coari; all running from the south, where they have their source nearly in the same Cordilleras as that of the Ucayale; but the countries through which the latter passes being inha-bited by wild Indians, and consequently but little known to the Spaniards, its course, till its junction with the Maranon* calnnot be ascertained : and it is only from vague accounts of some Indians, that in certain months of the year it is navigable. There is indeed a tradition of voyages made up it, and by which it was perceived to run very near the provinces of Peru.

Beyond the Rio Coari eastward, the Cuchibara, also called the Purus, joins the Maranon; and after that likewise the Madera, one of the largest rivers that unite their waters with it* In 1741, the Portu* guese sailed up it, till they found themselves not far from Santa Cruz de la Sierra, betwjxt 17 and 18 deg. of south lat. From this river downwards, the Maranon is known among the Portuguese by the name of the river of the Amazons: upwards they give it the name of the river of Solimocs. Within. a small dt* stance follows the river of Topayos, likewise very considerable ; and which has its source among the mines of Brazil. After these it is furtffer joined by the rivers Zingu, dos Bocas, Tocantines, and Mujuy all issuing from the mines and mountains of Brazil; and on the eastern shore of the latter stands the city of Gran Para.

Having thus given an account of the most distant branches of the stately river of Maranon, and of the principal ones which join it from the south, I pro. ceed to those, the sources of which are nearer, issuing fi;om the Cordilleras, and which immediately run in*

to

363 A VOYAGE TO BoofeVT.

to the eastern direction; and also those which join it from the north.

In the mountains and Cordilleras of Loja and Za-mora rise several little rivers, the conflux of which forms that of Santiago; and from these of Cuen<^i, others which unite in the Paute: but this, on its onion with the former, loses its name, being absorbed by the Santiago, (so called from a city of that name) near which it joins the two others from Lau~ ricocha and Apurimac* The river Morona issues from the lofty deserts of Sangay; and passing very near the city of Macas, runsjn a S. E. course, till it loses itself in the principal channel of the Maranon ; which happens at the distance of about so leagues E. ofBorja, the capital of the government of May* nas.

In the mountains of the jurisdiction of Riobamba, those of Latacunga, and the town of San Miguel de Ibarra, are the sources of the rivers Pastaza and Tigrej end from Cotopaxi and its Cordillera issue the first branches of the rivers Coca and Napo. These, though their sources are at no remarkable distance, run to a great extent before they join ; and retaining the name of Napo, fall into the Maranon, after a course of above aoo leagues in a direct line from E. to W. with some, though insensible, inclinations to the S. This is the river which father Christopher de Acuna, who willbe mentioned hereafter, takes for the true^Maranon, to. vhich, as exceeding all the rest in largeness, the others may be said to add their waters.

From the mountains of the jurisdiction of San Miguel de Ibarra, and those of Pasto, issues the river Putu-mayo, called also lea, which, after running S. E. and E. about 300 leagues, joins the Maranon much more eastward than the river Napo: lastly, in the jurisdiction of Popayan, the river Caqueta has its vrigin* which becomes divided into two branches; the western-, called Yupura, disembogues itself into the

Maranon

Ck.V.* SOUTH AMERICA. -3tf9

Maranon JUce another Nile, through seven or eight mouths, and these are at such a distance, that the in* termediate «space betwixt the first and the last is not less than 100 leagues; and the other, which runs to the eastward, is not less famous under the name o( Negro; M. deJa Condamine, in the narrative of his voyage; confirms the opinion of its being one of the communications betwixt the Oronoque and Ma-fanon; and corroborates bis assertion, by the authority of a map composed by; father John Ferreira* rector of. the? college of Jesuits in the city of Gran Para; in which heobserves^ that in the year 1744 a flying camp of Portuguese, posted on the banks of the Negro, having embarked on that river, went up it; till they found themselves ne^r the Spanish missions on the river Oronoque, and meeting with 'the superior of them, returned with him to the flying camp on the river Negro, without going a step by land; on which the author makes this remark, That the river Caqueta, (already mentioned, and so called from a small place by which it passes, near its source) issuing from Mocoa, a country joining eastward to Almaguar in the jurisdiction of Popayan, after running eastward with a small declension towards the south, divides itself into two branches; one of which declining a little more southward, fprms the river Yupurfc, and afterwards separating into several arms, runs, as we have noted above, into the MaVanon, through seven or eight mouths; and the other, after a course eastward, subdivides itself into two branches, one of which, run*' ning north-east, joins the Oronoque; and the other, in a south-east direction, is the river Negro. This subdivision in the branches of large rivers, and their opposite courses, though something extraordinary, is not destitute of probability; for a river flowing through a country every way level, may very naturally divide into two or more branches, in those parts where it rwets with any inclination, though almost insensi- Vol.L Bb ble,

5to A VOYAGE TO Boa* VL

ble, in the ground. If this declivity be not very-great, and the river large, and deep, it will easily be^ come na\ igable every where, with a free passage from One arm into the other. And in this manner the marshes are formed in a level country, as we have particularly remarked in the coast of Tumbez: for the sea-water on the flood running into these various mouths, which sometimes are 20 leagues distant of more, a vessel enters one arm by the favour of the tide; but coining to a place where the soil rises, the stream runs against her, being the water which the same flood bad impelled through another channel. Thus the ebb causes the waters to separate at that point; and each portion of water takes the same course -*t going out as at its entrance; yet the place where the separation is made is not left dry. But even though the place where the waters of the river Ca-queta are separated should not be level, or nearly horizontal, but lie on a considerable declivity; yet if this fall be equal on both sides, one part of the waters may take its course to the Oronoque, and the other to the Negro, without any other consequence 'than that the great rapidity would render them impracticable to navigation ; but this has nothing to do with the division of the waters, it being no more than forming an island either large or small.

From the province of Quito there are three ways to the river Maranon; but all extremely troublesome and fatiguing, from the nature of the climate, and being full of rocks, that a great part of the distance must be travelled on foot; for being so little frequented, no care has been taken to mend them, whence they are even more dangerous than the others in South America, of which we have given a description.

The first of these roads, which is the nearest to the town of Quito, runs through Baza and Archidona ;. where you embark on the river Napo, The second

is

d by*Vj(

Oe*. V. SOOTH AMERICA. 371

is by Hambatoand Papate, at the focrtdf themoun* tain of Tunguragua* and from theaee the road lies through the country of Canelos, watered by the river* Bobonaia, *wbich joining the Pastasa, both discharge themselves into the Maranon* The third lies through Cuenija, Loja, Valladolidi arid Jaeft, fitorn whence at the village of ChuShmxga, which 18 as it were its port, tbis river becomes fl&ttgaMe; andfc&rtfall embark' ^ho'are either going to Manas, or a longer voyage on this rivfer. Of the* three, this! afofle is practicable to beasts; but the tediousness of the dtefance fr&m Qo*tp4*e»dere il Che feast frequented ; for the missionaries, who take these journeys oftener than any other set of men, in order to avoid its circuity and the danger of the pass of Matizeriche, prefer the difficult ties and dangers to the others. * Itf the long eounsfe of this river from Ghuchtmga, are some parts where the banks, contracting them*' delves, forrh straights^ which, from the rapidity of the; - f waters, are dangerous to pass. In others!, by a sitd* deiHurn of its direction, the Waters are violently car-' tied against the rocks; and in their repercussion, form dangerous whirlpObte, the apparent smoothness- of which is no less dangerous than the rabidity in th6; freights* Among these, one of the «iost dangerous is that betwixt Santiago de las Montariaa and Borja, called Pbngo de Manzeriche; the first word of which signifies a door or entrance, and by the Indians is ap-; plied to all narrbw places ; the second is the name of the adjacent country.

The Spaniards who have passed this streigbt make the breadth of it to be no more th&n twenty-five yards, and its length three leagues; and that, without any1 Other help than itterely the current of the water, they were carried through it in a quarter of an hour. If this be true, they must move at the rate of twelve leagues an hour ; a ntost astonishing velocity ! But! M. de la Condamine, who examined it with par-B b % ticular

3?a .A VOYAGE TO ^ BootVV

ticular attention, and to whose judgment thegreatdst* deference is due* is of opinion, that the breadth of the Pongo, even in its narrowest part, is twenty-five* toises; and the length of the Pongo about two leagues*, reckoning from the place where the shores begin to; approach, as % as the city of Borga. And thi* distance he was carried in fifty-seven minutes. .He4 ,qbserves also* that the wind waa contrary; ^nd consequently his balza did not go so far as the currerit would otherwise havfe carried hen so that, makings Allowance for this obstruction* the current: may be: stated at two leagues aad a half or at thtee league* an hour.

. The breadth and. depth of this river is answerable^ tp its vast length; and in the pongos or streighte, and other parts where its breadth is contracted, its depth. is: augmented proportionally. And hence many are 4eceived by the appearance of other rivers which join, it, their breadth causing them to be taken for the real. Maranop; but the mind is soon convinced of its error, by observing the little increase which the Maranon receives from the influx of them- . This large river, by* continuing its course without any visible change in its breadth or rapidity, demonstrates, that the others^ though before the object of astonishment, are not com-: parable with it. In other parts it displays its whole, grandeur; dividing itself into several large brtirtcbes,. including a multitude of islands, particularly in the intermediate space between the raouth of the Napo and that of the Coari, which lies something to the westrv ward of the river Negro; where, dividing itself into many branches, it forms an infinite number of islands/ betwixt the mission of Peba, which is at present the Ipst of the Spanish, and that of San Pablo the first of the Portuguese, M. de la Condamine, and Don Pedro Maldonado, having measured the breadth of gome of these branches, found them nearly equal tq nine hundred toises, that is, ahqo$t a $e*i league. At

. :* . + '' the

'Ch.¥. SOUTH AMERICA. ^3

the influx of the river of Chuchuhga, the place where the Maranon becomes navigable, and where M. de Ja Condamine first embarked on it, he found its breadth to be one hundred and thirty-five toises; and though this was near its beginning, the lead did not reach the bottom at twenty-eight toises, notwithstanding this sounding was made at a great distance from the middle of the river.

The islands formed by the Maranon east of the Napo, terminate at the river Coari, virhereit again retinites its Craters, and flows in one stream: but here its breadth is from one thousand to twelve hundred toises, or near half a league; and here the same in-, genious gentleman, after taking all possible precaiir lions against the current, as he had before at the mouth of the rtverOhuchunga, sounded,, but found no bottom with one hundred and three fathom of line. The river Negro, at the distance of two leagues from its mouth, measured twelve hundred toises in breadth, which being nearly equal to that of the principal river, and some of those we have named, Ucayale, the Madera, and others, were found to be nearly of th0 same width.

About one hundred leagues below the mouth of the river Negro, the shores of the Maranon begin \p approach each other near the efflux of the river Trumbetas, which part is called the Estrecho de Pauxis, where, as also at the posts of Peru, Curup^ and Macapa, along its banks, and on these east of the rivers Negro and Popayos, the Portuguese have forts. At the Estrecho de Pauxis, where the breadth1 of theriver is near nine hundred toises, the effect of the tides may be perceived; though the distance from the sea-coasts be not less than two hundred leagues. Thi§ effect consists in the waters, which, withoutanv change in the direction of their course, decrease in their velocity, and gradually swell over their banks. The flux and reflux are constant every twelve hours, with B b 3 the

374 A VOYAGE TO Book VL

Jhe natural differences of time. But M. de la Con* datriine, with his usual accuracy, as may be seen' in the narrative of his own voyage, observed that the flux and reflux perceived in the ocean, on any certain day and hour, is different from that which is felt at the same day and hour, in the intermediate space be* tween the mouth of the river and Pauxis, being rather the effect of the tide^ of the preceding days; proportional to the distance of the place from the river's mouth; for as the water of one tide cannot-flow two hundred leagues within thq twelve hours, it follows, that having produced its effect to a deten-inined distance during the space of one day, and re* jiewing it in the following by the impulse of the succeeding tides, it moves through that long space with the usual alternation in the hours of flood and ebb; and in several parts these hours coincide with those of the flux and reflux of the ocean.

After flowing through such «i vast extent of ceun* try, receiving the tribute of other rivers precipitated from the Cordilleras, or gliding in a more gentle course from remote provinces; after forming many circuits, cataracts, and streigbts; dividing itself into various branches, forming a multitude of islands of different magnitudes, the Maranon at length* from the mouth of the river Xingu, directs its course N. E» and enlarging its channel in a prodigious manner, as it were to facilitate its discharge into the ocean, forma in this astonishing space several very large and fertile islands; of which the chief is that of Joanes or Ma~ rayo, formed by a branch of the great river \vhich Separates from it twenty*five leagues below the mouth of the Xingu; and directing its course to the southward, in a direction opposite to that of the principal stream* opens a communication between the Mara-ncn and the river of Dos Bocas, which.Jias before received the waters of the GiKtnapu and Pacayas, and flow? into it through a mouth of above two leagues in

breadth.

Ch> V. SOUTH AMERICA. 3 75

breadth.' These are afterwards joined by the river Tocantines; the outlet of which is still broader than the former, and at a still greater distance: the river of Muju, on the eastern side of which stands the city of Gran Para, discharges its waters into the same stream; and it afterwards receive* the river Capi, which washes the city of the same name.

The river of Dos Bocas, after joining that of Ta-gipuru, runs eastward, forming an arch as far'as this river of .Tocantines, from which it continues N. E# like the Maranon, leaving in the middle the island of Jbanes, which is nearly of a triangular figure, except' the south side about one hundred and fifty league* in lepgth, and forms the arch of a circle. This island divides the Maranon info the two mouths, by which that river disembogues itself into the sea. The prin* cipal of these two mouths from Cape Maguari in this island, and the North Cape, is about forty-five leagues broad; and that of the channel of Tagi-puru, as likewise of the rivers which have joined it, from the same Cape Maguari to Tigioca point, is twelve leagues. v

This river, which exceeds anyone mentioned either in sacred or profane history, has three names; and fc equally known fry them all, each implying its stupendous majesty, and importing its superiority to any other in Europe, Africa, or Asia. And this seems to have been intended by the singularity of its having three different names ; each of them enigmatically comprehending those of the most famous in the other three parts of the world ; the Danube in Europe, thfe Ganges in Asia, and the Nile in Africa.

The names which express the grandeurof this river, are the Maranon, the Amazons, and Orellana. But it is not known with certainty that either of them was the original, before its discovery by the Spaniards, given it by the Indians; though very probably it was not without many ; for as variou? nations inhabited

. B b 4 its

$j6 A VOYAGE TO Boo* VI;

its banks, it was natural for every one to call it by a particular name, or at least to make use of that which had been previously given it. But either the first Spaniards who sailed on it neglected this inquiry, or the former names became confounded with others given it since that epocha, so that now no vestiges of them remain.

The general opinion prefers, in point of antiquity, that of Maranon, (hough some authors will have it posterior to the two others; but we conceive they are jnistaken, both in their assertion, qnd in the cause of that name. They suppose that it was first given to this river by the Spaniards, who sailed down it under the conduct of Pedro de Orsua, in 1560 or 1559 * whereas it had been known by that name many years before: for Pedro Martyrin his Decades, speaking of %he discovery of the coast of Brazil, in the year 1500, by Vincente Yanez Pinzon, relates, among otber things, that they came to a river called Maranon. This took was printed in the year 1516, long before Goo-£alo Pizarro undertook the discovery of the river, ap4 conquest of the adjacent nations who inhabited its banks; or Francisco de Orellana had sailed on it. This demonstrates the antiquity of the name of Ma*, ranon; but leaves us under the same difficulties with regard to its date and etymology. Soipe, following Augustine de Zarate, attribute the origin of this name to a Spanish commander called Maranan^fromwhom^ as being the first that displayed the Spanish ensign 09 this river, it was thence called after his own name. "But this opinion is rather specious than solid; being founded only on the similarity of the names, a verjr exceptionable inference; especially as no mention is made of any such officer in any history published of ;these discoveries and conquests; whence it seems natural to conclude, that Zarate, on hearing that the driver was called Maranon, inferred that the hsme waf i taken from same person of eminence who had, made

Ch.V. SOUTH AMERICA. j7jr

an expedition on it. Fbr had he known anything farther, he doubtless would have enriched his history, with some of the adventures of the discovery of it; for if he had not thought them sufficiently interesting* it is something strange that all the Spanish histprians should be in the same way of thinking, apd concur td suppress the memory of a Spaniard who^e name was thought worthy to be given to the most distinguished river in the world. But what carries along with it 3 much greater air of probability is, that Vicente. Ya-nez Pinzon, upon his arrival in the river, heard it call* pd by the Indians who inhabited its islands and banks, Maranon,or some name of a similar sound; and thence Vicente Yanez concluded that its name $vas Maranon* Hence it is undeniable, that the preference in an-» tiquity belongs to the name of Maranon ; and that this name was not given it by Orsua or his men, in allusion to some feuds and confusions among them* palled in Spanist) roaranas, or from being bewildered among the great number of islands, forming enm;w ranado, or an intricate labyrinth of channels, accords ing to the opinion of some historians,

The second name is that of the river of the Ama* eons, which was given it by Francisco Orellana, from the troops of women who made part of the body of Indians who opposed his passage}, and who were not inferior either in courage or ,ihe cjex-terous use of the bow, to the men ; so that, instead of landing where he intended, he was obliged to keep 2t a distance from the shore, and often in th,e middl* of.the channel, to be out of their reach. However on his return to Spain, and hying before the 'mini stry an accqunt of his proceedings, and of the 6 jnaic warriors that opposed him, he \yas by patei created governor of these parts, in recompense, * , it was expressed, for1 his having subdued*the Ama . 30ns: and ever since the river has been called b . that n^onte.

Som

3?8, A VOYAGE TO Book VL

Some have indeed doubted, whether the Maranon and the Amazons were the same river; and many seem to be strongly persuaded, that they were really , different. But this opinion proceeds only from the river*s not having been completely reconnoitred till the closfe of the last century*

This particular of the Amazons is confirmed by all writers, who have given a succinct account of the river, and Orellana's expedition : and though this proof is abundantly sufficient, if not of its reality^ at least of its probability, it. is additionally confirm* ed by the tradition still subsisting among the natives; which we may believe on the authority of one of the most eminent geniuses the province of Quito ever produced; I mean Don Pedro Maldonado, who was a native of the town of RioUamba, but lived at Quito, and whose performances are well known in . the republic of letters. In 1743, this gentleman and I M. de la Condamine agreed to return to Europe in i company, by the way of the river Maranon ; and i among their other inquiries towards a complete know-j ledge of it, and the countries through which it flows, i they did not forget the fdinous Amazons; and were informed by some old Indians, that it was an un* doubted truth, that there had formerly been several communities of women, who formed a kind of re<-public, without admitting any men into the govern* ment: and that one of these female states still sub* sisted; but had withdrawn from the banks of the river ; to a considerable distance up the country ; adding^ \ that they- had often seen some of these female war* ] r\or$ in their country. M. de la Condamine, in the narrative of bis voyage down this river, printed at Paris in (he yca)r 1745, and who had all the rational cariosity of his fellow-traveller Don Pedro Maldo* nadpy relates some of the facts told him by the Indians, concerning thc-Araa£ons whom they had seen. i But I shall only here insert what historians have said

on

Ch.V. " SOUTH AMERICA, 379

jf on this head, leaving every one to give what degree of credit he pleases to the adventure of Orellana, and

1 the actual existence of the Amazons.

Some who are firmly persuaded of the truth of the adyenture of the Amazons with Orellana, and believe that theirvalour might be equal to that of the men, in defence of their country and families, will not heai^of a female republic separated from the in* tercourse of men. They say, and not without sufficient reason, that the women who so gallantly op* fjosed Orellana were of the Yurimagua nation, at that time the most powerful tribe inhabiting the banks of the Maranon, and particularly celebrated for their courage. It is, therefore, .say they, very natural to think, that the women should, in'some degree, inherit the general valour of their husbands, and join them ia opposing an invader, from whom they imagined they bad every thing to fear, which might inflame their ardour; as likewise from an emulation of militaty glory, of which there are undeniable instances in the other parts of the Indies.

The third and last name is that of the Orellaira, deservedly given to it in honour of Francisco de Orellana, the first who sailed on «it, surveyed a great part of it, and had several encounters with the Indians who lived in its islands or along its banks. $om£ have been.at a great deal of pains to assign eertawi distances'through* hs long course, and to appropriate to &aeh; of these one of the three names. Thus thef call Orel Ian a all that space from the part whare thfe officer iailed.down in.his armed'ship till it joinis the Maranon. The name of Amazons' begins at the influx of another river, at the mouth of which Orel lam* met with a stout resistance frpm the women or Amazons ; and this name reaches to ihe sea:; and lastly, the name of Maranon comprehends the river from its source a considerable way beyond the Fongo downwards

96o /A VOYAGE ^TO" Bo6k VH

rwardi all along the part of the descent of this river through Peruj alleging that this was the part through which Pedro de Orsua entered the river; supporting Iheir opinion by a derivation, to which we cannot subscribe, namely, that he gave it this name on ab-t count of the-disturbances which happened among hi* men. The truth is, that the Maranon, the Ama--zons, and theOrellana, are one individual river; and that what is meant by each of these names, is the vast common channel into which those many rivers fall, which contribute to its greatness. And that to ibe original name of Maranon the two others have been added for the causes already mentioned. The Portuguese have bpen the most strenuous supporters x of this opinion, calling it by no other name than that of the Amazons, and transferring that of Maranon to one of the captainships of Brazil, lying betwixt -Grand Para and Siara ; and whose capital is the city pf San Luis del Maranon,

II. Account of the first Discoveries and of the most

famous Expeditions on the Maranon, in order to

. obtain a more adequate Idea of this famous Riven >

Afte& this account of the course and names of 4his river, I shaH proceed to the discovery of it, and jthe most remarkable voyages madethereon. Vicente yane£ Pinzon; one of those who vhad accompanied |he admiral J5on Christopher Columbus in his first voyage, was* the person w,ho discovered the mouth through which this river, as 1 have before taken no-* ti(?e,djsqharges itself into the ocean; This adventurer, £t his awn expense, in 1499, fitted out four ships, dis* jDoveries feeing the reigning taste of that time. With Xhisyiew-bQ steered for the Canary Islands; and after passing by those of.Cape de Verd, continued his course directly v^est^uU <m .the &6th .of January* m

$fc Vv.a SOUTH AMERICA. . $?*

tbcyqatfi^oo, he, had sight of land; and-caHedit ^bo.^eConsolacion, having just weathered a most violent: ^torm. This promontory is now called Cabd de San August in. Here he landed; and, after taking a view* of the country, coasted along it northwbrd j sometimes he tost sight of tt, when on a sudden he foutyl himself in a fresh-water sea, out of whreW hd supplied, himself with fahat be wanted ; dnd borarg determined to traee it to its source^ he sailed upwards, aqd cam^.to th$* mouth of the river Maranon, whfero th$ islands m*de a most charming appearance. 'Herd be ,st$id some time, carrying on a friendly traffic with the Iqdia#6, whd were courteous and humane to these strangers. He continued advancing up the river, new. countries appearing still as foe sailed further*..

. To this maritime discovery succeeded that by land in the year 1540, under the conduct of Gonzalrt t Pjzarro, who was commissioned for this enterprise! by his brother the Marquis Don Francisco Piz^rro^ pn the report yvhich Gonzalo Diaz de Pineda had made of the country of La Canela, in the year 1536 ;-afc the same <\\me making him governor .of Quito. Gonzato Pizarro arrived at the country of Los Cane-los; and following the counse.of a river, either the Napoor Coca, it is not certain which, though mote probably thefirst, met with unsurmpuntable difficulties and hardships $ and seeing himself destitute erf" pro-< visions of every kind, and that his people, by feeding on the buds and rinds of trees, snakes, and other crea-tures, wasted away one after another, he determined to build a vessel, in order to seek provisions at the place where this river joined another; the Indians having informed him that there be would meet with a great plenty. The command of this vessel he gave tp Francisco de Orellana^his lieutenant-general and, confident, recommending to him all the diligence and punctuality which their extremity required. Afr

ter

3»s A VOYAGE TO Book Vt

ter sarHrig eighty leagties, OreJlana Arrived at the junction of the two rivers, but met with nothing erf what he had been sent for ;* being disappointed in the povisions he sought, the trees not bearing any fruit, Or the Indians having already g&thefed it. Hi& re-turn to Pizarro seeifred very difficult, if not imprfcc* ticaWe, on account of the rapidity of the current i bofiidesly he cotdd not think of retttt6ing, without IwSnging-witb him that relief so earnestly expected; so that, after. long* debating the matter with himself,-be determined, without the privity of his compa~ niorxsj to sail withthe! current to thfe w. But this could nbt long rcmaift a secret, the.hofetirig thd sails sufficiently demonstrating his intentioti8;; artd sdmer t.eheweatly opposing wc|i,a desettton^afcthfcy called it, were near coming to blows. But at length Orellana, by plausible reasons and magnificent pfcfchfees, paci-Cedvtfaem ; and the opposition ceastrtg, hfc continued bis voyage, after setting ashore Herflatidb Sanchez de Vargas to perish with hunger, as being rhe ring-leader of the malecontents; and persisting in hfe itivectives against Oreilana's project.

. Pizarro, surprised.at having no account of Orel-lana, marched by land to the place where he^had or-dered him, and near it met with Herrfando Sanchez de Vargas, who acquainted htm with-the whole affair of the vessel; at which Piza^ro seeing himself without resource, a considerable part of his men dead, the other so exhausted with fatigue and hunger that they dropt down as they marched, and those in the best state reduced to mere skeletons ; he determined to return to Quito, which, after fatigues and hardships even greater than the former, he at krst reached with a handful of men in the year^i542, having only reconnoitred some rivers, and the adjacent country; a service disproportionate to the loss of sa many men, and the miseries suffered in this enterprise.

This

Ch. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 383

This was the first expedition of any consequence, to make discovery of tbe river Maranon : and if the success of Pizarro was not.equal to htsfdfceand zeal, he was at least the instrument of its being entirely ac-> complished by another; and to bis resolution in pressing forward through difficulties arid dangers, and by his expedient of building the armed-vessel, must, in some measure, be attributed the hajipy event of Orellana's voyage, who, With a constancy which showed him worthy of his general's favour, recran-noitred the famous rrver of the Amazon^ through-its whole extent, the adjacent country, its innumerable islands, and the multitude and difference of tia^ tions inhabiting its banks. But this remarkable expedition deserves a more particular detail.

Orellana began to sail down the river in the year 1541 $ and in his progress through the several nations along its banks, entered into a friendly conference with many, having prevailed upon them to acknowledge the sovereignty of the kings of Spain formally, and with the consent of the caciques to6k possession of it. Others, not so docile, endeavoured -to oppose, with a large fleet of canoes, his further navigation : and with these he had several sharp encouftlers. In one Indian nation bravery was so general, that the women fought with no less intrepidity than the men % and by their dexterity showed that they were trained tip to the exercise of arms. This occasioned Orel-laqa to call them Amazons; which name also passed to the river* The scene of this action, according to Orellana's own account, and the description of the place, is thought to have been at some distance below the junction of the Negro and Maranon. ThusNhe continued bis voyage till the 26th of August, in the Same year; when, having passed a prodigious number of islands, he saw himself in the ocean. He now proceeded to the isle of Cnbagua, or, according to others, to that of La vTrinidad, with a design of gew

ing

#84 7 A VOYAGE TO Book Vf.

ing to Spain, to solicit for a patent as governor of these countries. The distance he sailed on this river» according to his own computation, was eighteen him* dred leagues.

, This dis9pv£ry was followed by another, but not *o complete,; it was undertaken in the year 1559 or 1560, under Pedro de Orsua, by commission from the inarquis de.Cancte, viceroy at Peru, who at the same time conferred on him the title of governor of all his conquests. But. the first news of Orsua was, that he and the greyest part of his men were killed in an ambuscade by the Indiana; a catastrophe entirely owing tahis own ill copduct, which destroyed the great armament,made for this enterprise, and created an aversion to designs liable to such dangers.

In, the year 1602, the reverend Raphael Ferrer, a Jesuit, having undertaken the,mission of Cofanes, fell down the Maranon, and attentively surveyed the country as far £s the conflux of the. two rivers where OreU lana had left Hernando Sanchez de Vargas * and at his return to Quito gave a very circumstantial account of what he had seen, and the different nations he had discovered. ,

. Another, but fortuitous, view of the river was taken in 1616. Twenty Spanish soldiers, quartered in Santiago de las Mon tanas, in the prpvince of Yaguar-gongo, pursued, a company pf Indians, who, after inurdering some of their countrymen in the city, fled up the country, and embarked on the Maranon in JLheir canoes. The soldiers, in falling down the river, came to the nation of the Maynas, who received them in a friendly manner; and after some discourse showed a disposition of submitting to the king of Spain, and desired missionaries might be sent them. The soldiers, on their return to Santiago, having made a report of the good inclination of the Maynas, and their qesire of being instructed in the Christian religion, an account was sent to the prince of Esquiloche, viceroy

CitV* SOUTH AMERICA. ' 885

of Peru: and in 1618, Don Diego Baca de Vega was appointed governor of Mfcynas and Maranonj find may be said to havfe been in reality the first, as neither Pizarro, Orellana, nor Orsua, though invested withthetitl^, were ever ir^pbssessionofit, having made no absolute conquests; a necessary circumstance tcfc wards realizing the title.

This expedition was performed in 1635 and 1636} and was succeeded by that of two Franciscans, with others of the same order, who set out from Qtkito with a. determined zeal for propagating Christianity among the nations on the Maranon. But many of them, unable to support themselves und6r the fatigues and hard* ships natural in such a country, and discouraged with the little fruit their godd desires produced, after wan* dering among mountains, woods, and deserts, returned to Quito, leaving only two, Dominico de Brieda md Andrew de Toledo, both lay-brothers; These, either from a religious seal, or naturally more brave mid hardy, or of greater curiosity, ventured to penetrate further into those dreary wastes. They were indeed attendedby six soldiers, remaining of a whale company who had been sent, under captain Juan de Palacio, for the safeguard of the missionaries; but so many of them hadreturned with tlie religious to Quito, that these six and the captain were all that remained: 4&nd that officer,. a few days after, lost his life in ^n action ttgaiast the Indians*

T«e six soldiers land two lay*-brothers* however continued with undaunted resolution to travel through countries inhabited by savages, unknown, and full of precipices on all sides j iit length they committed themselves to the stream, in a kind of launch;;and after many fatigues, hardships, and here and there a :rencoajuter, leached the city of Para, at that time de» pendent on, or united,With* the captainship of the Marauon, the governor of which raided at San Louis,

.Vofc. X Cc ^rbithe*

886 A VOYAGE TO Boo* VL

windier they went, aid gave Mm anacWtat of what they had observed kr this navigation >

. At chat time the crown of Portugal was annexed to Spain; and tbe governor of the captainship, or ftfaranon, for the sovereign of both kingdoms, was Jafcowe Reymundo 4e Nor<ma, who, ^zealous for the improvement of this discovery, fe* of the highest im-portincctohistpmice, fitted out a feet of canoes, binder the command tof icaptaim Texera, to go up the Mmsty aftd survey the country with greater form and pacm*cy* Thi8<floti#adeparted from theneighbour* food rof fiara, on the «&th of October, 1687* wish the two teligious*»i hoard; and after «n intesqanf fo~ tigue in soaking way agaAwst the stream, they arrived at Pahamino on tlie 24*h of Juns, 1088; Thfe place belongs to the Jurisdiction of Hie government of dCfcuwcos:; whence Tcxcra, with the soldiers anil the two religious, went to Quito, where tie gttfe an ao» axttsnt oftheexpedrtion to theaudienci&, which transmitted the particular* to the count de Chin chow, vice^ yoyofPeru; and he, agreeably to the dteal he ha4 aftways manifested for enlarging his majesty*s domi* cnious, faeld a council about making moto particular (discoveries along the shores of that riven

Among other things* the count 4e Cfainchon gave orders, that the Portuguese flotilla should return to Para; and with it sent some intelligent persons, whose 2eal might be depended on, with orders to* take aa accurate survey of the river and its banks; and after discharging thti commission, toproceed to Spain, and talke a report of their expedition to the council of the ladies, in order to be laid before his majesty, that inreastures might iii consequence betaken for securing 4he conquest of these Rations-. The persons chosen? were, the Reverend Fathers Christopher de Accuna and AntfreedeArtieda, Jcsuiu, and pensons^very way «qaal to the service.-..They left Quito on the *6th4f . February, 16$9; and having embarked with the arr

ipadiUa**

C*. -fe/r SOtJTfi. AWKICA* 407

.tawliUa, yfa*voy*gt often mpnthft, they arrived at Gran para ftp fcbftlfith of December, whence, accord* ang to thffr;iftttru«stionfc they passed over to Spain* £nd completely acquitted tbemptelve* of the trust re* loosed i* ^ham.

. As thf end of the last cfentury, another expedition was undertaken, for making discoveries on the Ma-^t(W» h»fc auhat*ipje j* was already so well kaowiv jthat most <»f the ac\jaeent lands had been improved J*y the missions which the Jesuits had settled there) *pd| the govtrntnent kosf Mpn*s now indudes many nations, who, on the fervent preaching of the Jesuits, having em braced Christianity, vowed obedience to the &Dgs of Spain; and a liappy alteration was seen ia thei^r morais and ctntocns. The banks of this irlver, tyhere before only wild Indians were seen living in the nuinner of be^$u, were npw turned into plantation* And regular towns, the inhabitants of which shewed $bat they were not destitute of reason and humanity* The$e improvements were in a great npeasuj*e owing to Father Samuel Fritz, who, in 1686, preacjipd the Gospel among those people, and in ashen time waf the lntfrumcat of the conversion of many nations i but the cptotinual fatigues and hardships, both by land and water, affected his health to such a degree, that he.was obliged to set out for Para in January !(*$& and arrived there on the 11th of September of the sajne year. Here he remained in a disagreeable -inactivity, till hi$ health wftwestored, and some affairp settled which required instructions from the court of Lisbon.

July the&th, 1601, Father Fritz left Para, in order , jto Upturn to bfcfl&i&eion, which then reached from the mouth of the rivet Napo to some distance beyond the Negro, and included the Omaguas, Yurimaguas, Ayw**e*> ^ many other adjacent nations, the most numerous of the whole river* October the 13th, i^ the «ame year, he returned to the town of NueptraSej

C c 3 nora

388 A VOYAGE TO Book VI,

nora d? las Thieves, the capital of th6 Yurimagua nation ; and having visited the rest undeVbischarge, to the number of forty-one, all large and populous, he went, on other public affairs, to the town of Laguna, the capital of all the missions on the Maranori, where the superior resided; and afterwards repaired to the city of Lima, in order to communicate to the count tie Moricloa, at that time viceroy, a full account of lall those countries. This-last journey he undertook by the way of therivers<juallaga,Patanapura, Moyo-bamba, Obachapoyas5ff Cax&marca, Truxilto, arid Lima., . f :

The affairs which brought this indefatigable missionary to Lima, where be was received with great honour, heme finished; Father Fritz, itt August 1693, set out, on4ns return to his missions, by the way of the city of J^ten de Bracamoros^ with a view of reconnoitring the course and situation of the rivers which, from those southern parts, fell kito the Ma-ranon. By the help of these additional lights, he drew a map of that river, which was engraved at Quito,in the year 1707 : and though it had riot all the accuracy which could be desired, the father being without instruments forobserving the latitudes and longitudes of the chief places, taking the course of the rivers* and determining the distances; yet it was received wi th very great applause, as being the only one in which were laid down the source and direction of all the rivers which join the Maranoq, and the whole course of the latter till its junction with the ocean.

III. Account of thcGonquestyMissionsi andNatbn&t established on thenar anon.

The'discovery of this famous river, and the survey

of the adjacent countries and nations, was followed by

' $e conquest of the nations who inhabited its banks

and

Ch. V. SOUTH AMERICA. 589

and islands. The miscarriage of the expedition un« der Gonzalo Pizarro has already been mentioned: Orellana was not more fortunate; when, pursuant to the grant of the government, he returned to settle in it; and Orsua's fate was stiti more deplorable, perishing himself, with the greatest part of his followers. But we are now to speak of the more successful enterprize of Don Diego Baca de Vega, whom we have already mentioned, but in a cursory manner.

The government of Maynas, and the Maranon, having been conferred on De Vega; confident of the good dispositions of the Maynas Indians, as it had been carefully cultivated, since its first commencement with the Santiago soldiers, heentered the country with a little colony, and founded the city of San Francisco dc Borga, in 1634, as the capital of the whple government ; a title which it justly deserved, for being the first erected in that vast country ; and also on account of the friendship which the Indians had shewn for the Spaniards ever since their first arrival. The new governor being a person of judgement and penetration, was not long in observing that these nations were rather to be governed by moderation and gentleness, with a proper firmness to create respect, than by rigour or austerity: and accordingly informed the au-diencia of Quito and the Jesuits of their disposition. Missionaries were accordingly sent them, in the persons of Gaspar de Cuxia and Lucas de Cuebas, who came to Maynas in the year 1637; and their preaching had such remarkable success, that, being not of themselves sufficient for instructing the multitudes of new converts, they sent to Quito for assistance: and thus the number of missionscontinually increased, and whole nations resorted from their forests in search of the light of the Gospel. By this means the king's dominions were extended, every proselyte with- joy acknowledging himself in hi* new state a subject of the

C c 8 king

S90 A VOTAGE TQ y Botf* Vfc

king of Spain, as he owed to his hguhty the iqeWi-mahle felicity of hi$ conversion. : ] . %

Thus the missions and the number of tqwns itf-$ creased together, and the propagation of4^ Chriatit^ religion in those remote Countries, and thft^ggrandis&i ment of the Spanish monarchy, went hand in hands But the most distinguished #ra of these progression was the year) 686, by the seal and activity of Fithec Fritz, whpm we have had occasion beforetammtk^ with honour: he went directly among the nation <&f the Omaguas, who having by the Coqam?* Itidi&ns been informed of the mildness and wisfi<#n witK

- which the missionaries taught themto.livfc u$de* j«a| and wholesome laws, and a police hitherto unknown among them ; together with the many happy effect* it had produced in those nations which bad conformed to their instructions ; animated with these pleasing Rations, they sent, in 1681, a deputation to the towa of Laguna, belonging to Cocamas, where Father Lo-. renzo Lucero, superior of the missions, resided, en* treating him to send among theni persons for their instruction: but the father at that time Was not in a capacity of complying with their request, all tjie mis* sionaries being employed elsewhere. He therefore dismissed them, with commending their good intentions ; promising them, that he would send to Quito, for a proper person to instruct them in those salutary doctrines embraced by the other nations.

S The Omaguas, full of anxiety, did 'not give Father Lorenzo Lucero time to neglect his promise; for, on hearing that new missionaries, and among theni Father Samuel Fritz, were jusfctarrived at JUaguna from Quitb, the same deputation returned to request the immediate performance of the promise; and ha* ving the greatest reason to eixpect it would be com-plied with, great part of thd people came, in canoes to the town of Lagnna, as a testimony of respect to

; Father Fritz, in order toeoaduct himto t|eir wtu*$ry*

V ^ w where"

Ch.V. SOUTH AMEWCA. 3»l

where tfcey treated him with such veneration, that ia his progress through the towns they would not suffer him to walk, but carried him on their shoulders; aa honour which the caciques' reserved to themselves alone; The effects of his preaching were answerable: to these marks of ardour and esteem, so that in a short time the whole nation was brought to a serious pro*> feseion of Christianity, deploring their former ignorance add brutality, and forming themselves into a political community, under laws calculated for the nappiness of society. And their example so influenced several other adjacent nations, that the Yurimaguas, Asuares, Banomas, and others, unanknously ana voluntarily came and addressed themselves to Father Fritz, desiring him to instruct theft* how' to live in the same order and regularity as the Otaaguas. Thus whole nations, on embracing Christianity, submitted to the sovereignty of the Spanish monarchs: and all the countries from the Napo to a considerable distance below the Negro, were reduced without the least force throughout the whole extent of the government of Maynas: and such, at the end of the last century, was the number of the nations thus converted, that Father Fritz, though without indulging himself in any respite*; was pot able to visit every single town and village within the compass of a year, exclusively of the nations under the care of otheF missionaries, as those of the M^ynas, Xebaros, Cocamas, Panos, Cha-micuros, Aguanos, Muniches, Otanabes, Roamaynas, Gaes, and many more* The other missions were in the same flourishing condition.

The city of San f raacisco de Bo*ja, which we ftaye already mentioned as the capital of Maynas, stands in 4 deg. 28 min. S. lat. and I Aeg^ 54 mitk E. of the meridian of Quito: but of its largeness and appear* ance we can only add, thit it resembles the cities of the government of Jaen: and its inhabitants, thotigh consisting of Mestizos and Indians,, afcd the place-is . : :^ Cc4 the

SOT A VOYAGE TO Book VI

the residence, of the governor of Maynea and Mara-non: vet they are not equal in number to those of Jaen de Bracamaros. The principal town of the mis* sions, and in which the superior is obliged to reside, is Santiago de la Laguna, lying on the eastern bank: o£ the river Guallaga., The places which at present compose those missions in the government pf Maynas^ and cti<>cc*e of Quito, are:

On the Rvcer Napo.

. L San Bartholome de Necoya. II. San Vedra de Aguarico.

III. Sao Estanislao de Aguaticq.

IV. San Luis Gonzaga. V. Santa Cru*.

VI. El Nombrede Jesus. VII. San Pablo de Gujyoya. VIII. Ei Nctmbre de Maria. JX. San Xavierde Iqaguates, X. Sun Juan Bautista de los Encabellados, XI. La Reyna de los Angeles XII. §au Xftvief dp Urarines.

On the Rfyer Maranon^ or Amazons

I. La Ciudad de San Francisco de Bdrja. II. La Certaoa, or inland country ttwarda St, Teresa. , HI. San Ignacio de Maynas.

IV. San Andres del Alto. v. V« §antQ Thomas Apottol4e.Andoa«,

i VI. Simigaes. , .....

VJI. Sap Joseph de Pinches . . . . VIII. La Conception de Cagua-panes. , . JX. La Presentacioo de. Cnayabitas.. ,. i , . X. La Inqarnacion de Paraoapurajsv; .Xlt LaConci5Rt;Qnde.XebarQ3,^ . . , :.,.... ..'» V &IL 3aa

Ch. V, SOUTH AMERICA, * S03

. XII. San Antonio de la Laguna.

XIII. Sail Xavier de Chamicuro.

XIV. San Antonio Adad de Aguahos.

XV. NuestraSenorade las Neves de Yurtmaguas. XVI. San Antonio de Padua. XVII. San Joaquin de la Grande Omagua, XVIIL San Pablo Apostol de Napeanos. XIX* San Phelipe de Amaonas. XX. San Simon de Nahuapo. XXI. San Francisco Regis de Yameos. XXII* Sanlgnacio de Bevas 'y Caumares.

XXIII. Nuestta Senora de las Nieves.

XXIV. San Francisco Regis del Baradero,

Besides these towns, which have existed for some time, there are several others yet in their infancy; and the Indians, by whom they are inhabited, of different nations from those above mentioned: likewise many others, both large and populous; some on the banks of the rivers which fall into the Maranon, and others yp the country. Many of the inhabitants of both nations hold a friendly intercourse with the Spanish missionaries, and with theinhabitants of the Christian villages, with whom they traffic, as well as: with the Spaniards and Mestizos, settled at Borja and Laguna. All these nations of Indians have some resemblance in their customs; but in their languages very different, every one seeming to have a particular dialect, though there are some of a nearer affinity than others to the general language of Peru. The most difficult to be pronounced is that of the Yameos Indians: while^on the other'hand, none is so easy and agreeable; to the ear as that of the Omaguas: and the genius and tempers of these two nations were found to be as different as their language. Thus the Omaguas, even before their submission, gave many surprizing propfs of the clearness of their intellects; but were surpassed, by the Yurimag^as, . both in wit and penetratiop. The , former

394 A VOYJtaETO Book YL

.former lived in villages'trader some kind of government, peacefully obeying their Caracas or chieis. They were less barbarous;. their maimers less turbulent and corrupt than those of most other Indians. The Yurimaguas formed a kind of republic; and bad some laws which were strictly observed, amithe breach of them punished in an exemplary maimer* But in police the preference doubtless belongs to the Omaguas: for, besides Hving in society, these was an appearance of decency among them, their nudities being covered, which by others were totally neglected. This disposition in those two nations foe making approaches, however small, to civ it customs and a rational life, notalittlecontributed to thespeedy progress of their conversion. They were more easily convinced, from the light of nature, of the truth and propriety of the doctrines preached by the mission?* ries; and were convinced^ that happiness, both pub* lie and private, was intimately connected with an Bniform observance of such precepts, instead of the innumerable £vik resulting from the manner of living hitherto^*l»^#l by them.

Among the variety of singular cubtoms prevailing in these nations, one cannot help, being surprized at the odd taste of the Omaguasy a people otherwise so sensible, who* to render their .children what thev call beautiful, flat the fore and hind parts of $hehea<£ which gives them a. monstrous appearance; for the forehead grows upwards in proportion asjt is flatted; so that the distance from the rising of the nose, to the?

. beginning of the hair, exceeds that from the lower part of the nose to the bottom of the.chin:. and th* same is observable in the back part of the head The sides also ^re very narrow, from a natural conse* quencc of the pressure; as thus; the parts pressed, in* steaci of spreading, conformably to thecommon eourse of nature, grows upwards. This; practice! is of great antiquity among them; and keptup>so#WGtly,;tbafc $ they

Cfl. V; i SOUTH AWEBUCA. $95

they makea je$t of other nation^, calling them p^la? frash heads.' \ :

. J# ortter to give children tfcisbeautiful flatness, the Pffper part of the head is put, soon after the birth, betwixt two pieces ot board; and repeated, from time to time, tftl they have brought it to the fashionable form, ^

: Another nation of these Indians, affecting a stri* feingAppearance, make severalholes in both their up* per and under lips, both sides of the cartilage of their itose, their chins, and jaws: and in these they stick jine feathers, or little arrows, eight or nineincbes Jong. The reader's own imagination will sufficiently paint the strange appearance they must make with these decorations. Others place a great beauty in long ears; $,ad accordingly extend them by art to such a degree, that in some the inferior lobe touches the shoulder: and they value themselves on the nickname of long pars, which has been given them in ridicule. The fnethod they make use of to extend their ears, is this: they bore a hole in the lobe, and fasten to it a small weight, which they from time to time increase, till $he ear is stretched to nearly the length above-men** tioned: and as the lobe increases in lengthy so likewise fJoes it \n magnitude. Others paint some parts of their bodies; some the whole; All have something peculiar in their modes and customs, but generally of such a nature, that Europeans wonder how they could eter farter the thoughts of rational creatures*. ' After; 4eserrbing this great river, and giving an account of the villages and "nations near its banks, I shall proceed to some other particularities relating to it; as jthe extraordinary species ©f fish found in its waters, and likewise the birdsand other animals seen in the adjacent countries through which it flows: Among

* Aridtfee* retoattfatek custom to, that <Jf their tytog &tir prmtks Jt'sbkddabctoctiKTgoii^dic w>|or-, A* ., . , - .» *

* ' the

$96 , A VOYAGE TO : Book VI.

the various kinds of fishv are two of an amphibious nature; the caymans or alligators, and the tortois^ which swarm on the shoVes and islands; Its tortoises, for taste, are preferred to those of the sea. Anotlihr remarkable fish here is the pexe-buey, or sea-cow, so, called from its resembling the land quadruped of that name. This is one of the largest species known ia the river, being generally three or four yards in length, and of a proportional thickness: the fle^h fc very palateable, and, according to some, has pretty much the taste of beef. It feeds on the herbage growing along the shore, but the structure of its body does not admit of its coming out of the water. The female has dugs for suckling its young; and whatever some may have said of any farther resemblance to the terrestrial species of that name, it has neither horns nor legs. It has indeed two fins, which serve equally for swimming, and supporting itself on the banks whilst feeding. The general method of the Indians for fishing, is with inebriating herbs, like that I have tfientioned on the river Guayaquil. On.some occasions they make use of arrows dipped in poison, of such an activity, that the slightest wound inw mediately kills the fish. This is also their method of hunting; and in both they are so very expert and active, that they are very seldom known to miss their aim. This powerful venom is principally the juice of a bejuco, near six fingers broad, and fiat on both sides, of a brownish colour, andgrowingin very damp marshy places. In order to prepare the poison, they cut it into pieces, which they bruise ami boil in wateiv On taking it off the fire, they add to it a particular ingredient which causes a coagulation. With this they rub the point of their arrows; .and when dry, for want of frteh. unction, they moi&tea»k wjth their spittle: the quality of it is so frigorific, that il immediately §epels all the blood to the h$art, wher^ the vessels burst, being uaabte toqoafcra'.aucb a torrent

as

Ca. V. -:. SOUTH ^AMERICA. m

as suddenly ttwtiies into tbem. But what teincrst sate

{>rizing hdre, -is, that the creature thus killed, and ts coagulated blood, aie'esten without any incon-*veiriency. ^fhe most! powerful antidote to this ve* nocrt is, immediately to eat sugar: but this specific* though often ialutary, it not infallible, as several melancholy Jnfetanccs hav? demonstrated* , , j \ .

. The btfjdeife and parts adjacent iio this famous ri~ ?ver, as weihat those contiguous to* the othdrs which discharge their waters into it,abound ' with, large and 4ofity trees, therwoodof whichfis of different colours; -some tfhit«r otherrof a tlarie browii; sofad' red, or wintd with? lAriefy of bcflouis. Some-of another «pecie& distil haislams of an exquisite ftagra»cy, 01 rare and medicinal gums; others are noted fcfr theii; *ldicre©sratid'jsriqbrious fruits. Among these the -wild cacD&,rfbp themere.gbcidiresftUrfthe:soii, with* out any cultttrevgrows inttbegwtefiest plenty, and yields fruit of a'gdodnesk equal tm that in the jurisdiction of Jean and,Qft^KOs. Hereako arfe gathered great qiiantiti^^^awftpariila^^ra^tllasj and a bfrk called declavo orxdowess for thQU^hiit)«lQemblesfcinnamon in appear fence; except its colour which is something \Jarker, itsks'te and siAtil are .very diffe^cfhf, ''frefng nearly (he same with that of th6 East-lii$a clove, -As to quadrupeds, birds, reptiles, ?md insects, they are nearly the same, ahdin as great numbers as those already mentioned in the description of other hot countries. One reptile of a very extraordinary nature, and known only here and in the provinces of New Spain, I shall; as a conclusion of my feccount of the Maranon, add a description of.

In the countries watered by that vast river, is bred a serpent of a frightful magnitude, and most delete* rious nature. Some, in order to give!an.idea of its largeness, affirm that it will swallQW any beast whole; and that this has been the miserable end of many a man. But what seems still a grWrter wonder* ii the

attractive

m A tWAdE ±0 boo* Vti

attrafctiireQuality attributed to its teeath, which it-teststtbly draws any creature to it; which happens to be within the sphere of its attracting: but this, I must own; seems >to surpass ajl belief. The.- Indiana call it jaeumama, i.e; mother of water: fm as fit de* lights in lakes and marshy!places,.it may>in some sense be cotoido^ as; amphibious. : I iaye taken a great deal of. pains to enqaiie sinto this particular; and all I can say is, that th^ reptile V magnitude is teally surprizing. So toe persons whose veracity is not to be questioned* aiuLwho have seen it in the pro* nrinces-of New, Spainj agreed in theit account of the cftormou* corpulency of this serpent,/ but with re» gard to its attractive quality could say nothing de*

Cisive^.. \y.l^< W. » -. . , i .i?!,,: ..» ,\ «.t

Suspending themforefor the: present jail positive judge Dhenty without givipg entire credit to alt.the qualities vulgarly attributed to. this animal, especially the more; suspected,, ds not improbably flowing from astonishment^ which^ecjueiltly adapts absurdities, it being itafrtssible, in so great a pertw&atioa, to coo* eult reason.; let me be indulged with ^somfevariat ion of.

: 4.;v » -; i!' .;. . " ;-:* ' ' h ..> ; ,v ? ,f :

I iiavf ^coHto^e, pf tlje$e seifcents killed« coil o£ thf body at ouf if them wastalbri a hog about 10 stone in weight. "JThe largest Was iab<mt if !feet long* and 25 inches in circumference* thfe fmaUest about,9'ft*t. long, a«<l 10 in *itt»mfenciioe.^Thejr ge-neraBy lie co^^j^ and wait till tfcejf prw j*ss** nea/ enwgh. to be seized, As they ate not easily distinguished ffom the large rot* ten wood (which ifes about in plenty in these parts), they have opportunities *ea<nigfi to *ei*e their prey «nd satiate their hanger. The Indians wtfch this opportunity* ,anjl wfoenythey bra*e <hatf gorged their prey, Jkill tfiein without dagger. Ap I ^wapi walking in tfeci Voods one day^ attended by two Indians and a Negro boy, wfc were within JO yards of one of these serpents, when the Negro Jtrttd out, ;€flfb*a, Sehhort Cobna, Senhof! on which it made away i^o a neigW^ftripg thicket, wjrich concerted front mt sight At most hideous cjgatiyg I at that time liad ever seen, in its .motion, which Was slow and* peculiar to that serpent* it appeared lite a serpentine Jog, wfth two bright gems for eyes, placed within three or four in-' .$h"es from to 4nd whicb was ftrthest ftom lis* fton* whkk *ays af *W*J)gta*»^9diU9U A.

Ch. & I SdHTtt.itMi^ICA. 309

the accidents* to investigate the cay se,in order, to com* at tlieknowtedgeof it&ptaperties, whichit isdifficukt* ascertain, unless supported by undoubted experiment* iSkxtthat i would offer myiopinion as a decisive rule; I desire that the judgement of others may ideciare foe that which appears most conformable Co truth,; I wroukl al&o further acquaint the reader, tint I only speak from the testimony of thoie who havjeaeeatbb famous serpent, having- never myself had:an oppor-Amity of examining it njith my own eyes*;., i . * vFibst, it issaid^ that this serpent, in tbeJeftgtharal thickness of its body, very much resembles rtfae^rmnk *tf an o4d trefc, whose roots have for some time sriasoi ***> ccwrriy thfc usual nourish irteat; and tlwwf dm etpry part of h grdws a kindof moss like tfeafeistefcti ont the Jbarkot wiLdteets. This is accounted1, fcriiy tkedut* -and mud adhering to ft; and *Utttnately»nnx>isteapd and dried hy the water and .sun. i Tbi* forma knight crust over the thick scales ^ and this crust is increased bylfop sluggishness and alow motion oftheserpfcrti; which, unless when forced by hanger to go in quest of food, contiavesrmotionless in **ie place for several days together; and even then its motion is almost imperceptible, learving a track like that of a teg of timber drawn along the ground.

Its breath is asserted to be of such a nature as to gause a kind of drunkenness or stupidity in man of beast* which has the misfortune of jieing within the bounds of its activity5 and Jhus causes the animal involuntarily to move till k unhappily comes within tfce read) of the serperit, which immediately swallows it. Thi* is the vulgar report; and it is added, that the only method of averting the danger, ftvon first fedtfng.tbe' breath to cut it, that is, to stop it by the interposition of another body, which hastily intervening, cuts the current of the blast and dissipates it. Thus the person, who was moving on to certain destruction, if enabled to take another path, and avoid the fatal catastrophe;

400 A VOYAGE TO Boot. Vt

tastrophe- These particulars, if thoroughly const* dered, seem mere fables: as indeed the learned M. 4e la Condamine intimates; and the very circum-staaces with which they are decorated, increase their improbability.

. But, in my opinion, with a little alteration in the circumstances, what seems to shook credibility, wUl appear natural and founded on truth.

That: its breath is of such a quality as to pro* duce a kind of inebriatioa in those whom it reashesi is far from being impossible; the urine of the fox is well known to have the same effect} and the breath of the whale is frequently attended with such an insupportable foetor as to bring on a disorder in the brkro. I Jtherefore see no manner of difficulty in ad* mittinjg that the breath of this serpent may be of that intoxicating quality attributed to it; and may be considered as an expedient for catching its prey, as otherwise the creature, from the stow movement of its body,, would be utterly incapable of providing itsetf with food; whereas, by this deleterious smell, the animal may be thrown intosuch hojror and perplexity, as to be unable to move, but remain fixed like a :statuef 6r>faintawayr whilst the snake gradually approaches and seizes it. As to what is related of cutting the.Latath, and that the danger is limited to the direction in which the serpent breathes; these aie tales, which to believe, would imply an utter ignorance of the origin and progress of odours. In short, the vulgar errors, propagated by these rude nations, have gained credit among the Spaniards, merely because none has had the curiosity or resolution to put them to the test of experience.

CHAR

Ch;VI. .: SOUTH AMERICA, 492

/'... CIUP- VI. ;

Of the Geniusx Customs, and Manners of the Indians who art Natives of the Province of Quito.

THE subject of this chapter,- and its circumstances, ate of such a nature, that, if what aiH cient histories deliver concerning them should recur to >the memory, they will appear totally different. Indeed the disproportion between what I read, and what I am going to relate, is so* remarkable, that, on a retrospect towards past times, lam utterly at a loss to account for the universal change of thitfgs; espe^ ciallywhen surrounded by such visible monuments of the industry, polity, and laws of the Indians of Peru, that it would be madness to question the truth of the* accounts that have been given of them; for the ruins of these ancient works are still amazing. On the/ other hand, I can haTdly credit my own eyes, when. I behold that nation involved as it were in Cimmerian darkness, rude, indocile, and living in a barbarism littte better than those who have their dwelling among the wastes, precipices, and forests. But what is still more difficult to conceive is, how these people, whose former wisdom is conspicuous in the equity of their laws, and the establishment of a government so singular as that under which they live, should at present shew no traces of that genius and capacity which formed so excellent an (economy, and so beautiful a system of social duties: though undoubtedly they art the same people, and still retain some of their an-.cient customs and manners. Leaving therefore this intricate subject to be investigated by farther enquiries, I shall proceed to give an account of the present Indians, their genius, customs, and qualities, ac- -cording to the best information I could obtain from a commerce with those people of all ranks, during ten * Vol. I. D d years.

Jm A VOYAGE TO Book VI.

years. Some particulars in this narrative will demonstrate that they sttfl Fetain a few sparks of the in* dusfcry a*jd capacity of the anciept Indians of Peru;* whilst others will siiew that tbey are utterly destitute of the knowledge of certain sciences which M'ere common among their ancestors; and that they are eqiiafly degenerated from their wisdom in making laws* and their regular observance of them.

It is no easy task to exhibit a true picture of the cusloms and inclinations of the Indians, and precisely display their genius and real turn of mind; for if CQnsideied as part of the human species, the nar*. tow limits of their understanding seem to clash with the dignity of the soul; and such is their stupidity, that in certain particulars one can scarce forbear entertaining an idea that they are really beasts, and even destitute of that instinct we observe in the brute crea^ tion. While in,other respects, a more comprehensive judgement, better-digested schemes, and conducted with greater snbtilty, are not to be found than among these people. This disparity may mislead the mostj discerning person : for should he form his judgement from their firstactious, he must necessarily conclude them to be a- people of the greatest penetration and vivacity. But when he reflects on their rudeness, the absurdity of their opinions; and their beastly manner of living, his ideas must take a different turn, and represent them in a degree little above brutes.

Such is the disposition of the Indians, that if their indifference to temporal things did not extend itself also to the eternal, they might be said to equal the happiness of the golden age, of which the ancient poets have given such inchanting descriptions. They possess a tranquillity immutable, either by fortunate, or unfortunate events, In their mean apparel they are as contented as the monarch clothed with the most splendid inventions of luxury ; and so far are they from entertaining a desire for better o^ mor^

com-i

Ch". VL f SOUTH AlMERICA. 40*

comfortable cflothing, that they give thdiraelves n<| manner of concern about lengthening their o^tr; though half their bodies continue naked; They shew the like disregard for riches; and even that authority or grandeur within their reach is so little the object of their atnbkion, that to all appearance it is the same thing to an Indian, whether he be created an alcalde, or forced to perform the office of a common execu^ tidnen *

And thus reciprocal esteem among them is neithet heightened nor lessened by such circumstances. The same moderation appears in their food, never desiring; more than what suffices; and they enjoy their Coarse simple diet with the same complacency as others do their well-furnished tables. Nor do I indeed question but if they had their choice of either* they Would prefer the latter; but at the same time they shew so littte concern for the enjoyments of life, ais nearly approaches to a total contempt of them : in short, the most simple, mean, and easiest preparation seems best adapted \o their humour.

Nothing can move them* or alter their tnindsj even, interest here loses all its power; it being coin* mon for them to decline doing some little act of ser-» vice, though offered a very considerable reward. Fear carinotstimulate, respect induce, nor punishment com* pel them. They axe indeed "of a very singular turn ; proof against every attempt to rouse them frotn their natural indolence, in which they seem to look down with contempt on the wisest of mortals: so firmly bigoted to their own gross ignorance, that the wisest measures to improve their understanding have been rendered abortive; so fond of their simplicity and indolence, that all the efforts and attention of the most vigilant have miscarried. But in order to give a clearer idea of their tempers, we shall relate some particular instances of their genius and customs ; as

D d 3 othtr*

404 A VOYAGE TO Bod*. VL -

otherwise it will be impossible to draw their true character

The Indians are in general remarkably slow, but very persevering; and this has given rise to a proverb, when any thing of little value in. itself requires a great deal of time and patience, ' that it is ,* only fit to be done by an Indian.* In weaving carpets, curtains, quilts, arid other stuffs, being unacquainted with any better method, at passing the woof they have the patience every time to count the threads one by one; so that two or three years is requisite to finish a single piece. This slowness undoubtedly is not entirely to be attributed to the genius of the nation ; it flows, in some measure, from the want of a method better adapted to dispatch. And perhaps with proper instructions they would make considerable progresses, as they readily comprehend whatever is shewn them relating to mechanicks: of this the antiquities still remaining, in the province of Quito, and over all Peru, are undeniable testimonies. But of the^e more will be said in the.sequel. This indifference and dilatoriness of the Indians is blended with sloth, its natural companion ; and their sloth is of such a nature, that neither their own interest, nor their duty to their masters, can prevail on them to undertake any work. Whatever therefore is of absolute necessity to be done, the care of it is left to the Indian women. These spin, and make the half shirts and drawers, which constitute the whole apparel of their husbands. They cook the matalotage, or food, universally used among them; they grind the barley, formachca, roast the maize for the camcha, and brew the chicha; in the mean time, unless the master has been fortunate enough to get the better of the husband's sloth, and taken him tp work, he sits squatting on his hams (being the usual posture of all the Indians), and looks on his wife while she is doing the necessary work of the family ; but, unless to drink,

€». VI. ' SOUTH AMERICA. 4m

fte^evet'moves from the fire-side, till obljged to corfti to 'table, or wait* bn his acquaintance. The only, do*-Inestic service tftey doj is to plough their cttacaj-itaj or little spot 6f land, in order to its being sown; bui ;the latter^ together with the rest of the culture, makes another part, which is also done by-the" wife and children. ''When they are once settled in the above 'posture; rib Yetifard can make them stir ;sd^that if a traveller has lost his way, and happens to come to any of these cottages, they hide themselves,, and charge "their wiv& to stiff that <hey are not it ftome; * when the whote labour consiits:rti accompanying the tra* veller a quarter .of a leagtte, or perhaps less, to put hitn in his way: and for this small service, he would getatiai, or half a rial at legist. Should the passenger alight aiid:enter the cottagte, the Indian would still be safe; for, having no light but what comes through a hole in the door, he could not be discovered: and even if Me should see the Indian, neither entreaties nor offers would prevail on the slothful wretch to stir ia step withhitiv. Audit is the same if the}' are to be etn^ployed in airy other business. *-

That the Indians may perform the works appointed *by their masters, and for which they are properly paid, it will be of little signification to shew them their task^ the master must have his eye continually upon them: for whenever he turns hisbdck, the Indian immediately leaves off working. The only thing in which they shew a lively sensation and alacrity, is for parties of pleasure, rejoicings, entertainments, and especially dancings. But in all these th£ liquor must circulate briskly, which seems to be thdti*supreme enjoyment. With'this they begin the day, and continue drinking till they are entirely deprived both of sense* arid motion. ... *-

Such is their propensity to intemperance, that they-are not restrained by any dignity of character; the' cacique and the alcalde never fail to be of the com

Dd'3 Pa?*y,

AOG A VOYAGE TO Bop* VI

{>aay, at all entertainments; and drink like the rest .till the chicha has quite.oveicaaie them. It is worth notice, that the Indian wxwnen, whether maids or roar-fj^ed, and also the young men before they are of an age p> contractmatrimony, entirely abstain from this vice,; it being a maxim among tbem, that drunkenness is x)nly the privilege of masters of families, as being persons who, whpn tjbey are unable to tafce cjire of tbem» selves, haveojtbers to take care of them* , Their manner of celebrating any solemnity is to<> lingular topeiQinitted: the person who.gives the.enr Jtertainment invites all hjs acquaintance, and provides <:hicha sufficient for the number of his guests, attjip rate pf a jijg for each; and this jug holds abouj; two gallons* In the court of the house, if it be 4 large town, or before the cottage, if in a, vjllage, a, table is placed and covered with a tucuyo carpet, only psed on such festivities. The eatables consist wholly pf camcba, and some \vild herbs boiled. When the guests meet, ope or two leaves of these herbs, wkh texj or twelve grains of canicha, finish the repast. Im^ mediately the women present themselves with cala* bashesor round totumos, called pilches, full of chicha, for their husbands '; and repeat it till their spirits are raised: then one of them plays on a pipe and tabor, whilst others dance, as they call it, though it is nd jnore than moviug confusedly from one side to the other, without measure or order. Some of the best voices.among the Indian women sing in their own language. Thus their mirth, continues while kept up by the liquor, which, as I have §aid before, is the ' soul of all their meetings. Another odd circumstance is, that those who do not dance> squat themselves down ip their usual posture* till it comes to their turn, The table serves only for state, there beingnothing on it to eat, nor do the guests sit down at it. When tired with intemperance, they all lie down together, without finding whether near the wife of another, or their

P\vq

€n. VI. S^UT« AMERICA. 4Q7

4W» sister, daughter, pr a, more distant rdatron; so shocking are the excesses tp which they give themselves upon these solemnities, which are sometimes continued t|)ree or fpurdays, till the priests find themselves obliged to go m person, thro\Vaw$y all tl^e chkba, and disjierse *he Indianp, Jest they should buy more. r

Th;e day after -tb$ festival is called copcho> ^vhich signifies the day for drinking off the remains of the .preceding; with the$e they begin; and if ,not sptffi-ciqnt to ^pmplete their rev^l, every one of thegi*esb$ >j?uns h<we;to his houss, and fetches a jng, or th$y club for more. This occasions a new cc^chp for %\& wexpfay: aqd thus, if left to themselves, from, ]day ^to day, till either no more chicha is :to ,be had, ,^P they l$ft without money or credit. _ ,o

Their burials are lifcewise>okroni£ed with e#c$sh -S^ve drinking. The house pf mourning is filled >vttji <jugs of chicha; and not for the solaGepf the mourners ^nd their visitors alone; the latter go out into the <8tr$ejts, and invite all of their nation who happen to rj>as$ by, whether married or single of both sexes; tp cotne in and drink to the honour qf the* deceased.; ,$nd to this invitation they will take no denial The .ceremony lasts four or jive days, and sometimes more^ strong liquor being their supreme wish, and the great pbject of all their labours.

If the Indians are thus excessively addicted to intemperance, gaming is a fault with which ,tbey^ can* not be charged; though these two vices are generally seen together. They seem to have no manner of i»r filiation fpr play; nor have they above one kind, $Efd that of great antiquity among them; this they call pasa, i. e. a hundred, as he wins who first gets thit number. They play at it with two instruments ; one a spread eagle of wood.with ten holes on each side, . being tens; and are marked with pegs, to denote 4?very man's getting*: the other is a bone in thenian*

D d 4 ner

408 A VOY'A&B tO B*ok-Vl

Der of a die, cut with sevetffeces; onfe of WhicWTHis a particular mark, and is caHect guayro.*- The other

. five tell according to the number of them';J and thte last is a blank. The way of playing is only to toss tip the bone; and the marks on the upper surfafeeare -so many got. But the guayVo gbes for ted ; andthte like number is lost if the blank side appears. Though 'this game is peculiar to: the Indians, it is very little used except at' their revels.

- The commorifood of the Indians, as before observed, is iriaize ma<Je into catffrcha or mote,' and inachck; the manner of preparing the latter-is, to '-roast the grairi, and theft reduce it toaftouf^ arid this ^without any other apparatus or ingredient, they eat "%y spoonfuls; two or thtee of which, and a draught of chicha, or, when that is Wart ting, df water; completes -tftfeir repast. When they set'out on a journey, their Jvrhole viaticum is a little b&g,'which they callgucri-ta, full of this meal, anda spoon. And this suffices 'for a journey of-fifty or a hundred leagitfes. When hungry, of- fatigued, they stop at some place where 'chicha is to be had, or at some water ; where, after taking a spoonful of their mfeal into their mouth, they keep it some time, in order the more easily to swallow it; and with two or%three such spoonfuls, well diluted With chicha; or, if that is not to be had, with water, they set forward as cheerfully as if risen from a feast.

Their habitations, as may be;imagined, are very

, small; consisting of a little cottage, iu the middle of Which is their fire-place. Here both they and the animals they breed, live promiscuously. They have a particular fondness for dogs; and never are without three or four little curs in their hut: a hog or two, a little poultry, and cuyes, with some earthen ware, as pots, and jugs, and the cotton which their wives spin, constitute the whole inventory of an Indian's effects Their beds consist of two or three sheepskins,

Ch. VI,' SOUTH AMEHldA. 4(&

1 skihs, without pillows or any tiling else; and on these they slee'p ifi their usual squatting postufc': and ^s they n£ver undress, appear always in the saitae'garb. * Though the Indian wdmem t>reed fowl at\d oth^r domestic animals in their cottages, they nevei* eat them: and even conceive such a Fondness f(^r them tHat they will not even*sell thrift; much less killtheih ivhh their 6wn hatids ; so that if a stranger; 'who h obliged to pass the night in 6'nefbf their cottages, offers! ever so miich money fota fowl, they refiise to part with it, and he finds himself under the necessity of killing the fowl himself. At this ftislarfdlady shrieks, dissolves in teaihs, &nd wrings her hands, as if it had been ataonly son ; till, seeing the mischief past remedy, she wipes her eyes, and quietly takes what thfe traveller offers Her.

;-:Mant of them in'their jonrpeys take their whole 'family with them.; the women carrying on their shoulders such (ihilclren as arfe unable to walk/ Th? cottages* in the hnean time are shut up; and there being no furriiture to lose, a string,* or thong of leather, serves fora lock : their animate, if the journey is lto last for several days, they carry to the 'cottage of some neighbour or acquaintance: ifotherwise, thfcir curs are left guardians of the whole ; and thesfe' difc-^charge their trust with such care, that they will fly *at any one, except their masters, who offers to com& near the cottage. And here it is worth observing, that dogs bred by Spaniards and Mestizos have stich & h&tred to the Indians, that; if one of them approaches^ a house where he is not very well known, they fall upon him, and, if not called of£ tear hrm to pieces : on the other hand, the dogs of Indian breed are animated witti the same rage against the Spaniards and Mestizos ; and, like the former, scent them at a distance.

Tjje Indians, except those brought up in cities *>r towns, speak no language but their own, called

Quichua,

410 A VOYAGE TO. Boox V$.

Quichut, which was established by Aheynca.s, with ran order for its being propagated all over the vast empire, that all their subjects might be able to understand each other; and therefore was distinguished Jby th$ name of the "tf'ncas language. Some under* ^tan,d the Spanish, and speak it,; yet very few have the jgoodtnature to answfer m it, though they know at the sajne time, that the person with whom they are conversing cannot unfierstjapd them in Quichua. Nor 4s it of any consequence to desire and press them to explain themselves in Spanish, for this they a^wlMte-ly refuse: whereas it is quite otherwise jwith the Ia-<lians born and bred in the towns; for, if spoken to jn their,own language, they are sure to answer i# tl*> jSpanish.

Superstition is general among them; and they Anymore or less, pretend to fprtun^f telling. This weakness is al?o of a longstanding a»ong them.;,ami which neither the remonstrances of the priests, nor .their own experience, can radically cure. Thus they employ artifices, .supposed charn^s, and strange compositions, in order to obtain some visionary happiness for the success of a, favourite scheme, or other weighty concern. In these prestiges their minds are so infatuated, that, to bring them to a sight of the fx>liy and wickedness of such practices, and solidly to .embrace the Christian religibn, is a work of the greatest difficulty. And even when they have embraced if^ are so superficial and fickle, that, if they attend divine service oil Sundays and holidays, it is merely from fear of punishment; for otherwise there would be scarce one Indian, especially of the meaner sq#% among the whole congregation. Pertinent to thi% I shall relate, among many other instances, the follow* . jng story, told me by a priest. Air Indian had, fc^r some time, absented himself from the service of the church ; and the priest being informed that it was owing to his drinking early in the morning, on the

following

C*f. VI.- SOUTH AMERICA. 4U

(following $u&4*y, .wfae» he had been j*arti$uJarly or* dqred to make his appeanuj.ee, charged him with hi* fault, $nd directed that he should receive some Jashes, thenj^jal punishmeni; of such delinquents, he theii* age of siex what it will, and perhaps the hest adapted to their stupidity, After undergoing the punishment, lie turned about to the priest, and thanked him for -having chastised hinx according to his. deserts; to which the priest replied with some words of exhpr.-Nation tojiim, and the audience in general, that they would never omit any duty of Christianity. But hp had no sqoper done, than the poor Indian stepped up to him, and desired that he would order him a like

v putuber of lashes for the next Sunday, having made an appointment for a drinking match, &b that he should not be present. This may serve as a spepimeq. of the little impression made on them,uot withstanding all the assiduityof the missionaries; and that though oontinuaily instructed, from the first dawnings of reason till the day of their death, they are found to continue in a strange iguorance of the niopt essential points of religion. Their indifference here is so very deplorable, that they may he said to gitfe themselves no more concern about their souls than about their bodies : and though I with pleasure allow, th^t there, are many who, in the culture of their mitids,,sanctity of manners, and delicacy of conscience, equ^tl the. most wiseand circumspect; yet the bulk of them, either by that gross ignorance which clouds their intek lects, and renders tnem insensible of their eternal con-* Cerns, or their natural depravity, are hardened against religious exhortations* For though they readily grant every thing that is said to them, and never offer to make the least objection ; yet they secretly harbour suspicions of some evil design, and leave room for mental reservations, which spoil all. I am little inclined to lay any false charge to this or any nation,

*" and especially with regard to1 such an important sub-2 ject:

Googk

ilk A VOYACE TO ' Book Yt

ject: and in confirmation of what I have said, shaH relate sortVe jfiirther particulars: -

; EveIiy Sunday in the year, the doctrinal priests instruct their parish in the artides of Christianity with indefatigable zeal: also, when any Indian is sick, they toever fail to4 visit and g&hbrt him to prepare for a fcbmfortafyfe passage'into eterhity,' adding' whatever they judge tfiay conduce to/the opening the eyes of his understanding; pathetically expatiating*on the justice and mercy ot Ot>d, the nature of death, the certainty of an approaching judgement, and his pre* sent danger. After speaking thusa considerable time, 'without'a #ord from the patient,' or the least sign of emotion in his countenance, the good mkn proceeds to remind hith of his sins; aiid exhorts hfm tbJa sincere fre'pentance? and td implore the mercy1 of his Creator; as, otherwise, his soul Will be punished to all eternity. The Indian at length answers, with a serene faintness, u So it Will be, father:1* meaning, that things will happen as He has predicted ; but does' not understand in what these threatened sufferings consist. I have often heard priests of those towns, sand men of parts and learning, talk with great Concern on thfe subject. Hence it is that *th£re are very few Indians to whom the holy eucharist is administered : nor would those of the house, where a sick person lies, ever give notice of it to the priest, were they not afraid of the punishment which the law in these cases inflicts: atid even as it is, they often neglect this duty, and the patient dies without receiving the sacrament. : '

In their marriages, they run counter to the sentiments of all nations, esteeming what others detest; a virgin being never the object of their choice: for they look on it as a sure sign, that she who has not been known to others, can have nothing pleasing about her.

After

Ctf.VL SOUTH AMERICA. 4t$

After a young man ha* asked the object of his affections of her father, aodobtained his consent, they immediately begin to live together as man and* wife* and assist the father-in-law in cultivating his chapara, At the end of three or four months, and often of a year, he leaves his bride, without ceremony, and perhaps for the wild reason above-mentioned: and even expostulates with the father-in-law, tliat he should endeavour to deceive him, by imposing upon hint his daughter, whom nobody else had thought worthy of making his bedfellow, , But if pothjng of this happens, after passing three or four months i*i this commerce, which they call -Amanarse, i. e. to habk tuate one's self, they then marry : and this custom ia still very common, having hitherto proved too strong for the joint endeavours of* the whole body of the clergy to extirpate. Accordingly, the first question at the ceremony of marriage is, whether they are amcmnados, in order to absolve them of that sin before they receive the nuptial benediction. They look upon no marriage to be legal which is not solemn, and according to them the whole consists in the nuptial benediction, which must be given them at the time they join their hands, as otherwise, on any caprice, they separate: and it is to no purpose td go about to persuade them that they were married; nor will any punishment have the least effect. For as it does not imply any infamy, the intention is lost It is the $ame thing with them to be exposed to the public derision and insults, as to be ordered to shew their skill in dancing on a festival; the thing which, ofallothers, they most delight in. They are indeed sensible of corporal punishments during the time they are inflict-- iog, but immediately afterwards are as.placid and easy as if they had not been touched. This, occasions many things to be connived at in them, and other means of prevention used.

I*

4

^41* A VGYAGt T6 Sook ^t

Iris not uncommon among them to change their wives* without any other preliminary or-agreement* tha-n having been familiar with the wife of another* The former wife, together with the injured husband, concert a revenge; and if reproached for such a pre* ceeding, they cheerfully answer, that they had served them only as they deserved ; and it avails little to se* parate them, as they soon find means to return to the same manner of living. Incests are very com* mom among them, both as the consequence of their monstrous drunkenness, already mentioned, and from their making no distinction between honour and infamy, whereby their brutal appetites are under no restraint.

If the foregoingtempersor customs appear strange, their behaviourat confession is not less so: for, besides kavingf but a slender acquaintance with the Spanish language, they have no form to direct them in it. On their coming to the confessor, which is always at his summons, he is obliged to instruct them in whatt they are going about, and with them repeat the Con* Jiteor from one end to the other. For if lie stops, the Indian also remains silent. Having gone through this, it is not enough for the priest to ask him, whether he has committed this or that fault; but if it be one of the common sort, lib must affirm that he has committed it, otherwise the Indian would deny every thing. The priest further is obliged to tell him, that he well knows he has committed the sin, and he has proofs of it Then the Indian, being thus pressed, answers, with great astonishment, that it is so; andy imagining the priest really endued with some super-' Batural knowledge, adds circumstances which had not been asked him. It is not only difficult to bring them io declare their faults, hut even to -kefep them from denying them, though publicly committed, and equal* ly so to prevail on them to determine the. number £ tills being only to be obtained bv finesses j and then

little

Cb.VL SOUTH AMElttCA. 4I# -

little stress is to be tekl on what they say. Hie na-i tural dread,, which more or less rises in all men at the* approach of death, is what the? Indians are les^swsoep-;

- tiblc of than any other people. Their contempt of those evils which-make the strongest impressions on,' the minds of aien, is such, that they view the approach.

. of death without peturbation : and the pain of the distemper affects them more than the danger of it. This I have often heap! from several of the priests: and their words are confirmed by daily instances. For when the priests perform the last offices tQ dyitig-pei^ sons, their answers are delivered with that composure ajad serenity, as leave no doubt but the inward state of their mind corresponds with these external appearances, being the principal and cause of them. TJhe like is even seen in thosfe whom their crimes have1 * brought to die by the hands of justice; and amonj* many other examples, I happened myself to be an eye-witness of one. Whilst I was at QuitOj two malefactors were to be executed ; one a Mestizo or Mulatto, and the other an Indian: both having been' brought into the prison-chapel, I went to see them the night before the execution. The former was attended by several priests, who, in Spanish, exhorted him to die like a Christian, and shew a becoming fervour in his love to God, faith, and contrition, and a detestation for the crimes he had committed. On which, his aspect and whole deportment shewed a ^sense of his condition. The Indian had also ecclesiastics about him, performing, in his own language, the like kind offices. But to all appearand* he was less concerned even than those about hkn, and seemed rather to be tilling a chacura, or tending a herd, than on the eve of eternity. Hfs appetite was -so far from leaving him, as was the case of his com-panion, that he was more eager, andr after dispatohing his own, would have cleared his fellow*sufferer's plate; so that they were obliged tous&£ome«fQrc&tQJ

v prevent

41$ . A VOYAGE TO Boa* VL

prevent his eating to excess on suth an exigency. He talked to the spectators with that ease and tranquillity, * as if only going to. take a short journey. He an** swered to the exhortations without the least confusion; when he was ordered to kneel, he did so. The prayers and acts of devotion he alsp repeated word for word; but all the* time rolling his eyes about, like a sportive child, whose weak age is diverted by trifling objects. Thus he behaved till brought to rfoe gibbet, where his companion.had been carried before him : nor did he shew theleast alteration even in the awful moment. And this, to a civilized European so strange, is no more than what is common among the Indians of these parts*

This indifference with regard to death; or intrepidity, if we may term it so, shews itself upon many other occasions, particularly in the alacrity and resolution .with which they face themselves before a bull, with no other view than fpr the bull to run full at him, and toss him so high in ihe air, that any other than an Indian would be killed by the falL He however rises without receiving any hurt, and is highly delighted with the victory, as he calls it, ovqr the bull; though the victory seems to lie on the bull's side. When they fight in a body against others* they fall op, without any regard to superiority of numbers, or who drops, or is wounded of their party. An -action which in a civilized nation is counted the height of courage, is here merely the effect of barbarism and want of thought. They are very dex- -trous in haltering a bull at full speed; and, as they fea,rno danger, arttack him with what we should call great temerity. With the same dexterity they hunt bears : and asiiigle Indian, with only a horse and his noose, never fails of getting the better.of allthe cunning and rage of this furious animal. This noose h made of cow-hide, so thin as not to be seized by the ♦ bea^'spaws, and yet. so strong as not to be .broken

by

-

Ch. VL SOUTH AMERICA. 417

by the struggles of the^creatore. On perceiving tht l>ear, they immediately make towards him, whilst he sets up in order to seize the horse. But the Indian being come within a proper distance, throws the noose about the creature's neck: then, with surprizing $elerity having taken two or three turns, with thd dther end about the saddle, claps spurs to his horse: in the mean time the bear, unaole to keep pace with the horse, and struggling to clear himself of the noose* is choaked. This is considered as an achievement of admirable dexterity and bravery; and may be frequently seen in the province of Alausi, near the eastern Cordillera, where these animals abound.

A great part of the rusticity in the minds of the Indians must be imputed to the want of culture; for they, who in some parts have enjoyed that ad van* tage, are found to be no less rational than other men : and if they do not attain to all the politeness of civilized nations, they at least think property. The Indians of the mission of Paraguay fire, among others, remarkable instances of this j where, by the zeal, address, , and exemplary piety of the Jesuits, a regular well-governed republic of rational men has been established : and the people, from an ambulatory and savage manner of living, have been redyoed to order, reason, and religion. One of the mos&ef&cUial means for this was, the setting up schools for instructing the young Indians in Spanish, in whifh they>aJso instruct their converts; and,(hose who are observed,to be of a suitable genius, ape taught Latin. In all the villages of the missions are schools for learning, not only to read and write, but also mechanic trairlSs;, and the artificers here are not inferior to those of Europe. These Indians, in their customs ^nd intellects* ar&<i different sort of people from those before-msntyone^L They have a knowledge of things; a <clear discern* xnent pf the turpitude of vice, andtheamiabieness of virtue; and act up to these sentiments; oot that the;

Vofc.I. E e - have

til AVCfiTACETO Boit VI;

have any natural ad vantage weir the ©the*: for I liav* observed throughout this whole kingdom, that tlie In* diang of Iti several provinces through which I tfra-tidied are ilike. And those of Quito a*e not *«*>*£ t deficient in their understandings than tWose of Val* le& or Lima; nor are these more aoii3be or sagackmi than the stives of Chili arad Arauco,

Without going o»t of the province of Quite, we have a general ins tan ce in confirmation of what I have advanced. For all the Indians, brought up to the Spanish language* are far more acute and sensi* ble than those who have spent their lives iu little villages; and their befeavionr more eottfottfaable t4> the dictates of a rational creature* They are meh of abilities and sklM, and have divested themselves of many of their errors. Whenqe they are called Ladi-nos, i.e. knowing met : and if they retain any of the culpable practices of tbfc former, it is fiwn the infection of intercourse, or frotft a mistaken Motion that they ahcteddkeep them up as transmitted to tliem from thei* ancestors. Among these are chiefly distin-gftitehed the baPbe^surgeOns, who .bleed -with such dexterity, that, in the opiftk>fc of Monfc de Jessien and Mons. Seaiergues, swgetmis to the French acade-iftkts, tfcey igquarl the most fatrtotts in Etttope: and Chew lrifeepeo»rfie with persons of a liberal education enlightens their understanding, so that they distinguish themselves1 to great advantage anwag.theif eoitatrynien.* Itfctems to fnentiijuestiGftaiblev that if fti villages-caff e was takeh t® ihstruct tire Indians ifi Spatiish, eonfortriaWe to the laws off thfe Indies,' b# fcides o%hti> accj&itements, this people woeltl have the beuefit of eriiiVeifetog mote frequently with <he Spa-ttfoi^ whtebPWowW greatly impriyvfe their reason, ttn4 gWe them a knowledge of man y things for tf lrfeh the£ hftVe fK> ty&fd in their language. Acfc6r3in^y it fo ibsterved that the Glibl^^a' riatnegfrm 16 the IadSiti I b0ys)Wbomfcg«(e<jit^iiited witfe theS^amsh-i^ritroj^e^ - :1 2 . *i -improve

**-

Cft. VI. SOUTH AMERICA; 4»

improve so much-iri knowledge, that they ldok on their countrymen as savages, and take upcm themselves the appellation qf Ladinos,

I am very far from imkginiug that the Spanish language itself has the virtue of improving tbe itotel* fccts of the Indians; but only, that rational convw* sation with the Spaniards would lead them to a knowledge of many things : and consequently they might be brought to a greater purity of faith and praptice* Whereas the conversation among themselves must b* very low and confined: and what they have with ttie Spanish traders who understand their language turns ivholly on traffick. But if they understood the Spa* »isb, they would daily receive new lights by convcr* lifrg with travellers whom they attend, as well as from the inhabitants of the cities, their masters* the priests,: the eorregidors, and others; and thus becQme mBttk industrious and tractable, and acquainted with the ni* tare of things of which before they hadatfot-so much

as; an *<&&

; Are not the differences and1 advantages evident among ourselves, betwixt a young man *hose stock of learning is his natural language, and him who ii acquainted with others? What a superiority of kno*r«* ledge, discernment, and facility in the latter! Hence we ftmy form some idea of the abject state of the hit* man mind, among rutte country people, who cannot exchange a word with a stranger, and netfer stir srat of their village : whereas, when any one happens to go to a neighbouring town, he returns home with^e©* larged knowledge, and entertains all the village wUflk his narratives: but if he had not understood the language spoken in it, he would have been Mttle the better, nor able to relate the strarige things he sa«r ^ fcnd heard. This is the very case of the Indians 5 end * I am ofiDpinimi, that.to teach them the 'Spanish tongue wuijld teothe-best means of improving their reason, and consequently of making them better

Ee2 members

430 AOVQYAGE TO Book VL

meitobers'of' society : and that my superiors thought so, appears from the ordinances relating to America. ' > ' i. . £ TttE Indians in general are robust, and of a good constitution. And though the venereal distemper is so oommbn in this country, it is seldom known among them : .the principal cause of which unquestionably Jies in the quality of the juices of their body, not being susceptible of the v?nora of this distemper. Many however attribute it. to a quality in the chicha, t^beir common drink. The disease which makes the greatq&t havock among them, is the small-pox: which is so fetal that few escape it. Accordingly it is looked upon in this country as a pestilence. This distemper is not continual as in other nations, seven or eight years, or more, passing without its being heard of; but. when it prevails, towns and villages are soon thinned of their inhabitants. This desolation is owing partly to the malignity of the disease, and partly to the want of physicians and uurses. Accordingly, on being seized with this distemper, they immediately send for the priest to confess; and die for want of remedy and relief. The like happens in all other distempers; and were they frequent, would be equally fatal, these poor creatures dying for want of proper treatment and assistance; as is evident from the Creoles, who are also attacked by the distempers of the country. Some of the latter indeed die as well as of the former; but many morerecover,havingattendance and a proper diet: wh^reasthe Indians are in want of every thing. What their houses and apparel are, has already been seen. Their bed is the same in health and sickness; and all the change in their food is in the manner of taking it, not in the species itself: for, ;however ill they may be, all they have is a Ismail draught of machcaciissolved in chicha; so that, if any one does get ttje better of a distemper, it is more

owing

C&.yi. SOUTH AMERICA. 421

©wing to the h&ppmess of his constitution, than anjfr iclicf he receives. . r

THtrare also subject to the bicho, or mkl del valle; but this is soon cured. Sometimes, though seldom, they are also seized with tabardillos, or spot* ted fevers, for which they have an expeditious btifr" singular cure. They lay the patient near the fire, on the two sheep-skins which compose his bed; and close-by him place a jug of chicha. I'heheit of the feVer, and that of the fire increasing the otbei", cause in him such a thirst, that he is incessantly drinking ;> whereby the eruptions are augmented, and the next morning he is either in a fair way of recovery, or so bad as to be carried off in a day or two. ?} They who either escape, or recover from, these dig-tempers, reach to an advanced age; and both sexes afford many instances of remarkable longevity. I myself have known several, who, at the age of a hundred, were still robust and active; which unquestionably must, in some measure, be attributed to the constant sameness atid simplicity of their food. But I must observe, that, besides the different kinds already inentioned1 they also eat a great deal of s^lt withagi, gathering the pods of it; and having put some salt in the mouth, they bite the agi, and afterwards eat spme machca or camcha: and thus they continue taking ope after another, till they are satisfied. They are so fond of sstlt in this manner of eating it, that they prefer a pod or two of agi with some salt to any other food.

After this* account of the genius, customs, and qualities of the Indians, it will not be irtiproper to speak a word or two of their diversions and occupa-~ tions, premising, that this account does not extend to such Indians as live in cities and towns, or that occupy any public office or trade, they being looked upon as useful to the public, a«d live independently, t Others in the kingdom of Quito are employed in the,

E e 3 manufac-

4£» A VOYAGE TO Book VI.

Ufianufactories, the plantations, ©rhi breeding of cattle. In order to this, the villages are annually to fur* , mish those places with a, mliriber of Indians, to whom their master pays ^vages as settled by the equity of the king: and at the end! of the year they return to their Villages, and are replaced by others. Tlys repartition is called' roita. And though these alterations should' ly order take ptac;e in the manufactories, yet it tenet to: for being occupations of which noqe are capable but such as have been properly trained; Up, the I«* diau families, which are admitted, settle there, and the tions are instructed in weaving/from one generation to another. The earnings of these are larger than those of the other Indians, as their trade requires greater skill aiid capacity. Besides: the yearly wages paiit tKem by those whom they servtf, they have atsd a quantity of land, and cattle given them to improve* Thev live in cottages built near the mansion.-house, so tiiafc every one 6i th£se forms a kind of village f some of whkrh consist of above an hundred and fifty families.,

CHAP. VIL

jlh historical Account of the most remarkable Mouth tains and Paramos, or Deserts, in the Cordilleras of the Andes ; the Rivers which have their Sources in these Mountains, and the Methods of passing them.

I. NOW come to the most remarkable paramos, or deserts, of the kingdom of Quito, and the rivers flowing through that country, which, among many other natural curiosities, is peculiarly remarkablefor the disposition of the ground, and its' prodigious njasses of snowy that exaefcd all comparison

Ctf. JWtr. SCRTTH AMERICA. 4«i

- If has been before observed, that all the depend tleiiciesofthe^sdictioBSOf^^ faeftwixt the two Cordilleras of the Andes ; and that theaiim more or less cold according to the height of tfar. metul tains, and the ground more or less arwfc Thpse arid tracts are called Paramos, or deserts ;: for tboqgkall the CotxKlferas are dry or arid, some of tbem^ndwuclvmofeso than others; for t%e continual snowsand fro&t renderfchem absolutely uninhabitable* even fey the: berets'; tm i* there a single plant to be found upon them.

SoMt of these mountains, seemingly as it we*r* foomfcd on others, rise to a most astonishing height'; anctare c<2> verdd with strtfweven to their summits; Th* latter we shaHmore particularly trefrt of, a$ they1 are tbcinostremarkabteafnd curious objected, ; % The paramo of A$uay, formed by the junction bf

the two Cordilleras^ is- not of this crass; lor, though ttttiavkable for its excessive coldness arid aridrty, its hsight< does not exrt£d that of the Cordilleras ii general, and is much tower than that of Pichinchk f and Corazon. Its height is the degreeof the donate, ithefe a continual congelation or freezing commences; aind as the mountains exceed this height, so ire they perpetually covered with ice *nd &now; that ftom a determined point above Carabueu for iustance, or thfc surface of the sea, the eowgeteliKm is found at the same height in all the mountains. Rtom barometrical experiments made at Pneaguayco> on the mountain Cfttopaxi, the height of the mereury was K> inches £# line*; whence we determined the height of tfia$ ptaceto be 1023 toisea afeove the pfai* orCarafttrcit, and that of the latter above the superficies ofthe sek about li§Si Thus the height of Pucagpayco, above the-surfece of the sea, is 3S91 torses. The signal (Which we placed on tWs mountain was. thirty or torty -toises abtfve tfee ke, or point of continual congelation; and fihe perpendicular height from the com-

E e 4 meocement

, N

424 A VOYAGE TO Boo* VL

mcncement (>t this ppint to the sufnmit of the motin-. lain, we found, from some geometrical observations made for that purpose, to be about 880 toises. This the summit ofCotopaxi is elevated 31%S toises above the surface of the sea, or something above three geo^ graphical miles; and 639 toises higher than the top of Pichincha. These are mountains I intend to speak of; and the height of them.all, consideriagtbegreat-pess of it, may be said to be nearly equal

In these Cordilleras, the most southern mountain is that of Mecas, more properly called S&oguay, though * in this country better known by the former, lying in the jurisdiction of the same name. It is of a pradi* giqus height, and the far greatest part of the whole surface covered with snow. From its summit issues a continual £re, attended, with explosions, which ate plainly heard at Pintac, a village belonging to tbe jurisdiction of Quijto, aud ngar forty leagues distant from the mountain; and, when the-wind is faiiv tie poise is heard ev«i at Quito itself. The country adjacent to this volcano is totally barren, being covered with cinders ejected by it In this Pacamo, the river Sancjayjhas its source. This river cannot be said to be ?i)^U,Jbut after its junction with another, called the Upano, fo/ms the Payra* a large river which dkr charges itself into the Maranon.

In the same eastern Cordillera* about six leagues vest of the town pf Riobamba, is a very high mountain, with two crests, and both of them covered with snow; that on the north is called Collanes, and that on the south Altar; but tbe space covered with snow is jnuch less than that of Sangay and others .of this class, its height being proportionally less.

North of the same town, and about seven lejagmes distant, is the mountain of Tunguragua, of aoonigal figure, and equally steep on all sides. The ground^ at its basis, is something lower than that of the Cordillera, especially on the north side^ where it seems to

rise

Ch. mi: SOUTH:AMERICA. 42*.

rise^om the plain on which the villages are situated* ©nlthisside, in a small plain betwixt its skirts and the Cordillera^ Jias been built the village of Bawios, so called from vtfrihoiinedicinal baths* to which there 13 & gte*p resarfcftom all parts of this jurisdiction. South c£ Cum^a, atull not far from another village called Bannos also, belonging to this jurisdiction, are other hot waters on the ^summit of an eminence, gushing out through several Apertures of, four or five inches diameter, and of »a heat which hardens eggs sooner than waiter hotting over thefire. These several streams unite and fbrai a rivulet, the stones and.banks of which are tinged-with yellow, and the water is of a brackish taste* The upper part of this small eminence is foil of crevices, through which issues a continual smoke: a sufficient indication- of its containing greit quantities of sulphureous and nitrous substances; North of Riobamba, inclining sohiedegrees to the west, is the mountain of Chnnborazo, by the side of tthich lies the road from Quito to Guayaquil. At first great numbers of the Spaniards perished in passing the vast and dangerous deset ts on its declivity; but being at present better acquainted with them, and inured to the climate, such misfortunes are seldom beard of; especially as very few take this road, unless * there is the greatest appearance of two or three days of calm and serene weather.

North of this mountain stands that of Carguayra-so, which has been already taken notice of. . North of Latacunga, and about five leagues dis* tant from it, is Cotopaxi, which, towards the north* west and south, extends itself beyond all the others; and which, as I have before observed, became a vol* can© at the time of the Spaniards' first arrival in this country. In 1743, a new eruption happened, having been some days preceded by a continual rumbling in its bowels*. An aperture was made in its summit, and three about the same height near the middle of

42$ A VOYAGE TO Bbos Vt

its declivity, at that tithe buried under prodigious masses of snow. The ignited substances ejected oil that occasion, mixed with a jrtodifcious quantity of ice and snow, melting amidst theflMoes, wece car* lied down with such astonishing: rapidity, tdsat \m fen. inst»t the plain, from Calk^t* ILatacanga, jurats overflowed ; and, besides, its ra\^g«in beatringdoFwm bouses of the Indians and other tpoor inhabitants, great j*umbers of people lost their 1 woes- The! river of Lalacunga was the channel, of this terribicJ-flood, titiv being too small for recei ving suah a ptfodigiott* curre»t> it overflowed the adjacent cowifcty hkt avast lake near the town, Hud carried aW*y allthe .builds iogs wtthSkx its reach. The inhaWtents retifced to a toot of higlter ground behind theij? town, of which loose parts which stood within the Hraiti of the cur« rent were totally destroyed. The dreid o£6till greater ' devastations did not subside in thnge days, during which the volcano ejected cinders^ iwhile torrent? o£ melted ice and snow poured dowb k>s sides. The fire lasted several days, and was accompanied with tern* hit roarings of the: wind rusking throu^hithe vohraoiot and gncat ly ex ceeded the great nuii HtngS before heard in its bowels. At last all was/cfiwet, neither firrnor * smoke were seen, nor was there any .noise to he heard Jtrll.the following year, 1744; when* in the month of May, the flames increased, and forced their passage through several ether parts on the sides of the mountain ; so that in clear nights, the flames being reflects ed.hy the transparent ice, formed a very grand -and heautiful illumination. No.veinbe* the Stttfv ikejsek-fcd such prodigious quantities o£ fire4 and? ignitetsubstances, that an inundation equal td die IkwnneKsooa ensued; so. that the inhabitants .of Lat&eunga gwre themselves over for lost. And we ooghc to aakab*r>-)edge the Divine protection, tbart it did not rage when .we visited ii, having occasion twice to continue some

tiino

Cft. VIL SOUTH AMERICA. 4£9

time <m, its declivity, as we have airfeadyf shewn m the third chapter of the fifth book.

Five leagues to the west of this, tnonfltain stands that of IUinisa, whose summit is also bifid* ami constantly coyered with snaw. From it-several rivulets ^ derive their Soiree; of which those flowing from the north era declivity continue that direction; as those from the southern side also run southward.' The latter pay their tribute to the northerii ocean, through the large rimt of the Aonaaons; while the, farttier discharge, tkeiwelves ipta the South-sea, by the river of Emoraldk .

, KoAth of Cotopaxi is another snowy oio&ntain: called Ghincnlagua, jsonaethmg legs thai* the former* dawig^irjc^en.tbat is not to fee compared to the others. . The mountain of Cayamburo, which is onfi.of the first magnitude, lies north, some degrees, easterly, from. Quito, a* the distance of about eleven leagues from thatcity. Theare is neither appearance npr tra-cjitioisi. «f \ti having ever been a volcano, . Several civers issue &tom it, of which, those from the WVand N* tute either into the river of Eqierakls or tha* of Mira,, but ail fall into the South-sea; while Jthe&e front the EL discharge themselves into the river q£ the Amazons* > ' i

Besides,'the torrents which precipitate themselves, from tjhe snowy mountains, others hfive their soure$ in the lower parts of the Cordilleras, and at thejm conflux form very large and noble rivers, which either pay the tribute to the north or south sea3, a& we shall hereafter observe.

All the springs issuing from the mountains in the neighbourhood of Cuen^a, on the westand south side' as far.as Talqui, with thoseof the eastern Cordillera, and northward as far as the Pararaa de Burga}% unite at about half a league eastward of a chapel ealled Jadan, under tlie care of the curate of Paute% where forming a river, and passing near the village

'_" from

«* A VOYAGE TO < Book VI.*

from which it has its name, discharges itself into the river of the Amazons. It is so deep at Pante as not-to be forddble, though very wide there. -From the mountains of Assnay, Bueran, and the? adjacent hills on the south, is formed a very consider rable river, over which are several bridged It is called Cannar, from that town being ithe only one in: its course; which it continues by Yoconto the bay of Guayaquil. ; :*

The north parts of the Paramo of Asaay also gaver rise to many streams, ^rhich; uniting? with others> coming from Mount Senegualap, and *&e: westinr side of the eastern Cordillera, form the tiverrAiarisi, which discharges itself into the samebay.> .) i

Ok the highest part of the Paramo de Tioloma, and near the signal one erected on this mountain for forming onr series of triangles, are four lakes, the thre& nearest it being less than the other, which is'about half a league in length, and called Colejr; and the Others, which are not greatly inferior, Picbtbinnac, Pubillu, and Mactallan.I Fr^m these is formed the: river Cebadas^ which runs Jiear the.vilWge rf that name, and is joined by another arising frdm the springs on the Paramo of Lalanguso, and the streams, from the Colta lake, after which, inclining,a little from the north towards the eatft; passes toy Pungala; and about a league from the village of Puni, isloined by the river Bamba, which has its source in*thefPa-ram bd of Sisapongo. Near the town ofCobigies is another, which flows from the mountain of.C%imbo« razo, and which, after directing i& course northward, till it is in an east and west direction'Wrtjh the mountain of Tunguraguaj it winds to the east, and .adds* its water to those of the river of the Amazons. At the town of Penipe, it is so deep and rapid as only, to be crossed over a bridge made of bujutos.. Also before it reaches the town of los Bannos, it is increased by the rivers Latacunga and Bato, together

with

I

Cb.vii.# south amebica. *sr

with all;the streams from both;the Gwdrlteras,: those from the southern summit of Elehisa, and the southern «ideof Ruminayi aud Cofopaki.

The streams flowing, from the north summit of Elenisa, I hkve already mentioned to run northward; and with these all from.the same Cordillera unite, together with those issuing from the north and west sides of the mountain Rdminavi, those of Pasuchua; and from this junction rises the River Amaguanna; The two last mountains stand north and south from ^jach other,, in an intermediate space of the Cordille* ras. From/the north side of Cotopaxi the Paramo of Chinchulagi*4 which is also covered with snow, and the Cordillertf de G,uamani, other streams have their rise, and from <tb$ir conflux is formed the river Ichu-bamba, which, running northward, joins the Ama-guanna, aiittle to the north of Cono-Coto. Afterwards it receives the rivulets issuing from the eastern Cordillera, and changes its name to that of Guaylia-bamba. Thq waters which have their source in the wqstern part,of Cftyamburo, and the southern part of Mo&anda, form another river called Pisque, which first runs to wards, the, west, and joining the Guaylla-baniba, takes the name of Alchipichi, which, a little to the north qf »St, Antonio, in the jurisdiction of .Quito, i$ sq bpoaA and rapid, that there is no passing it j>ut in a tarabita, which we shall presently describe, From hence it continues its'course northwards, and at Jast falls into the river of Emeralds.

The mountain of Majanda stands in the interval between the Cordilleras; and though it has only one Vide as it were, it is divided into two summits, one eastward and the other westward; and from botfe .these, runs a small Cordillera, which afterwards jointing, inclosje this valley.

J?uom thq side of this mountain issue two large tor* rents, which meet in the lake of St. Pablo: from whence flours a riven which, being joined by-Qtbcni

from

43d A VOYAGE 1^ Book VT-

fromthe springs ^of the western Cottfilferai form on* streata, and after being increased by* another brook from the heights of Oezillo, give risfc to the river Vhich washes the town of St. Miguel de Ibarra; after which it takes the name of Mira, atid discharged itself into the Sduth^-sea, a little to the noith of the fiver of Emeralds. 3

When the rivers are too deep to be forded, bridges are made at the most frequented places. Ofthes* there are two kinds besides those of stone, which are very few: the former of Wood,,which are.the most common; and the latter of bujucos. With regard to the first, they choose a place where the river is ver^-narrow, and has on each side high rocks. They con* «ist of ©My four long tteams laid close together oyefr the precipice, and form a path about a yard and k half in breadth, being just sufficient for a man to pass over on horseback; and custom has rendered thesfc bridges So natural to them, that they pass them without any apprehension. The second, or those formed of bujucos, are only used where the breadth of thfe river will not admit of any beams to be laid across. Ih the construction ofthese,*severalbnjl*fcttsa,rfc twisted together, so as to form a kind of large cable of fhfe length required. Six of these are carried from one tide of the river to the other, two of which are considerably higher than the other four. - On thelattfer ^tre laid st icks in a transverse direction, and> oVer tft^e, branches of trees, as a flooring; the former are fastened to the four which form the bridge, and %y that means serve as rails for the Security of the paisenge^, *who w'onldmherwise be in no small danger frohi the fcOniinaal oscillation. The bejuco bridges in thfe uoui?«try are orily for men, the fhules swHto'tfvefr thfe, rivers; in order to which, when their loaditlg i& taKlifa *o&> they<&'e 'd*6Ve IfiW thfc water r^a# half:aleague Above the- bridge,: that^tl>ey;inay:^e^ih:*lie ttppositfe *boi^d$irk, -ibc fefpidityoftfiestfeaifi H\9yingtfthtti, .:-:! so

Ch. VII, SOUTH AMERICA. 4tt

sfr great a distance. In the mean time, the Indians car* ly over thfe loading on their shoulders. On som£ rivefs of Peru there are bejtico bridges so large, that droves of loaded mules pass over them ; particularly the river Apurimac, which is the thoroughfare jof all the commerce carried on between Lima, Cusdo, Li Plata, and other parts to the southward/

Some rivers, instead of a bejuco bridge, are passed by means of a tarabita; as is the case with regaitl t<* that of Alchipichi. This machine serves not only to carry over persons and loads, but also the beasts themselves ; the rapidity of the stream, and the monstrous stones continually rolling along it, rendering it impracticable for them to swim over. -

The tsrrabita is only a single rope made of bejuco, or thofigs of an ox's hide, and consisting of several strands, and about six or eight inches in thickness. This rope is extended from one side of the river to the other, and fastened on each bank'td strong posts* On one side is a kind of wheel, or winch, to straighten or slacken the tarabita to the degree required, Frortithe tarabita hangs a kind pf teatbern hammock eapable of holding a man; and is suspended by a clue at each end. A rope is also fastened to either clue, and extended to each side-of the river, for drawing thtf hammock to the side intended. A push at its first setting off, sends it quickly to the other,side.

For carrying over the mules, two tarabitas are ne-* c^ssary, onfc for each side of the river, and the rope* ate much thicker and slacker. On this rope is only 0116 clue, which is of wood, and by which the beast i* suspended, being secured with girts roun^l the belly, lieck^ and legs.* Wheii this is performed, the crea«* ture iy$haVed off; and immediately landed on the opposite side. Such as are accustomed to be carried'ove* ihLthis manner/never mak^the least itootiori, and<e?e« come pf themselves to have the-girts fastened roatfd them;' dut/it'Ji witfi ^great-ififfieully they &ti'ifc&

fcrought

v

4«* ./A VOYAGE TO .ftfos VL

hrougb*rt<^suflfeF the girt$.W fctf'put round their bb* dies, and when they fine} , themselves suspended, kick and fling, during their short passage, in a most terrible manner. The river of Alchipichi may well excite ternor in a young traveller, being between thirty and forty fathoms from shore to phofre i and its perpendicular height, above! the surface of the water, twenty-five fathoms. A representation y£ these bridges, and the manner of conveying over the mules, was given in the la*t plate, N° V.

. The roads of this country are suitable to the bridges; . for though there are large plains between Quito and the river Bamfyir, and the greatest part of the road between the river Bambaand Alausi,,and even tp the north of that city, lie^ along the mountains, yet these »re interrupted hy fruitful breaches, theapclivities and declivities of whi,ch are not only of a great length and very troublesome, but also dangerous. In some places there is a necessity for travelling along tracts on the declivitiear of mountains, which are sometimes so narrow as hardly to alloyv rpom for the feet of the beast; part of its body, and that of the rider, being peipetn dicular over a torrent fifty or sixty fathoms beneath the road. So that certainly nothing but absolute necessity, there being no other road, and long custom, can get the better of that horror which must affect the person at the sight of such imminent danger; and there are too many instances of travellers losing their effects, if not lives, their whole dependence being on the sure foot of the mule. This danger is indeed, in some measure, compensated by the security of the roads,; so that we see here' what none of the civilized nations can boast of, namely,' single persona travelling, unarmed, with a great charge of gold and silver, but equally safe as if strongly guarded. If the traveller happens to be fatigued in a desert, he lays him down, and sleeps without the least apprehension of danger. Or if he takes up his lodgings .1 m

Ch.VIII. SOUTH AMERICA. 48*

in a tambo, or inn, he sleeps with the same security, though the doors are always open : nor is he evej* molested on the road. This is a fconvenience so favourable to commerce and intercourse, that it were greatly to be wished the same security could be established in the other parts of the world.

CHAP. VIII.

v Continuation of the Account of the Paramos, or Deserts; with an Account of th$ Beasts, Birds, and other Particulars of this Province.

TO conclude my observations on the Paramos, which it was necessary to interrupt, in order to give a short account of the rivers, bridges and roads, I shall observe, that, these parts not being of a height sufficient to expose them to an eternal frost, they are covered with a kind of rush resembling the genista Hispanica, but much more soft and flexible. It if about half or three quarters of a yard in height, and, when of its full magnitude, its colour is, like that of dried genista Hispanica. But where the snow remains some time on the ground without melting, none of these plants growing in habitable climates are found. There are indeed others, though few, and even these never ex:ceed a certain height. Above this tract, no* thing is seen but stones and sand all the way up ty the beginning of the ice. '

In these parts, where the above rjnsh is the principal product, the soil is as little adapted to cultiva-* tion; but produces a tree, which the inhabitants call quimial, the nature of which very well suits the* roughness of the climate. It & of middling height, tufted, and the timber strong; its leaf of & long, oval form, thick, and of a deep green colour. Though it bears the same name as the grain Called quiiiua, of

Vol.. I. Ff ' which

434 t^ A VOYAGE TO BdoK VI.

which we hate spoken elsewhere, and which grows in great plenty, the latter is not however the production of this tree; nor has the plant, on which it grows, any thing in common with it

I The climate proper for quinua is also adapted to Ithe produce of a little plant, which the Indians call, fpalo deluz. It iscommonly about the height of two (feet, consisting of stalks which grow but of the ground, j and proceed from the same root. These stems are straight, and smooth up to the top, from which grow [little branches with very small leaves. All of these j nearly rise to the same height, except the outer ones, I which are of a less size: it is cut close to the ground, jwhere it is about three lines in diameter; and being [kindled whilst green, gives a light equal to that of a jtorch, and, with care taken to snuff.it, lasts till the f whole plant is burnt. ~

In the same places grows also the achupalla, consisting of several stalks, Something resembling those of the sabila; and ^ts the new shoot up, the most outward growx>ld and dry, and form a kind of trunk, with a great number of horizontal leaves, hollow in 1 the middle ; and this, when not very large, is eatable like that' of the palmitos. *

Towards the extremity of the part where the rush \ grows, and the cold begins to increase, is found the vegetable called puchugchu, with round leaves growing together so as to represent a very smooth bulb, having nothing in them bat the roots: and as these increase, the outward case of leaves dilates into the form ot a round loaf, usually a toot or two in height, and the same in diameter v on this account they are also called loaves or onions. When in their vigour, they are of so hardy a nature, that a stamp with a roan's foot, or the tread of a mijle, makes no im-predion oij them; but when once fully ripe, they are easily .broken. In the middle state, betwixt thq full strength of tbeiv re^istapeje and the;decay oif their * 2 \\ i *9ot&

Ch.VUI. SOUTH AMERICA. 435

roots by age, they have an elastic quality, yielding with a tremulous motion to the pressure of the foot, and on its being taken off recover their form.

In the places where the puchugchu thrives best, also grows the canchalagua, the virtues of which are well known in Europe. The form of this is like a very thin, rush or straw; befars no leaves, but has a 'few small seeds at its extremity. It is medicinal, and particularly useful as a febrifuge; its taste is bitteiy which it easily communicates either by infusion or de* coction. In this country it is chiefly used p.s a sweetener of the blood, though thought to be of a hot quality. It grows in great quantities, and is found both among the puchugchu, and in other parts on the heath where the cold is less intense.

Another plant, not less valuable for its virtues^ and growing chiefly in those dreadful deserts where^ either from the severity of the cold or perpetual snows, or from the badness of the soil, nothing else is produced, is found the so celebrated calaguala; its height is about six or eight inches, and naturally spreads itself in thin stems along the sand, or climbs up the rocks. These branches in their form resemble the fibril of the roots of the other plants, being nbt above two or three lines in their greatest thickness, round, and full of little knots, where they bend round like the tendrils of a vine. They have a'thin pellicle of a loose texture, which of itself separates wheu the plant dries. The most singular virtue of thii plant is for all kind of irhposthumes, internal of external, which it discusses and heals in a very little time. The mannerofadministering it is by decoction, of which a very little serves; or, after bruising it, to inftise it in wine, and take it fasting for three or four days, and no longer, its good effects in that time being usually conspicuous ; and being extremely h'*tt it might prove pernicious, if-taken in greater quantity thanabsolutely necessary; for which reason only three

Jt'fa or

4$6 .A VOYAGE TO Book VL>

or four pieces, each about an inch and a half in length, are used for the infusion, and with such sort of \rine 'as will best correct its bitterness. Though this excellent herb gjjrows in most pf those frozen deserts, yet the best is that in the southern province of Peru. The leaves are very small, and the few it bears grow Contiguous to the stem.

, The paramos, or barren heaths, likewise yield the contrayerv a, which niakes a part of the materia me^ dica in Europe, and is considered as an excellent alexi-pharmic. This is also a creeping plant, with a leaf of about three or four inches in length, and little more than one in breadth, thick, and the bacjc part of it exceeding soft to the touch, and of a deep green. The other side is also smooth, but of a light green. On its stem grows a large blossom, consisting of many flowers inclining to a violet colour: but neither these nor the other flowers, which grow in great abundance in these countries, according to its several climates, are much esteemed; so that, when wanted, the readiest way is to send and have them cut from the plant.

Though the severity of the air on the deserts is such, that all animals cannot live there, yet they afford many beasts of vehery, which feed on the straw or rush peculiar to those parts; and some of these creatures are met with on the highest mountains, where the cold is intolerable to the human species^ Among the rushes are bred great numbers of rabbits, and some foxes, both which in their appearance and qualities, resemble those of Carthagena and other parts of the Indies.

The only birds known in those rigorous places are partridges, condors, and zumbadores or hummers. The partridges differ something from those of Europe; they nearly resemble the quail, and are very scarce.

The

Cm- VIII. SOUTH AMERICA. 437

The condor is the largest bird in these parts of the world; its colour and appearance resemble those of the galinazos, and sometimes it soars from the highest mountains so as to be almost out of sight: and by its being seldom seen in low places,a subtile air seems best to agree with it; though s6me, which have been tamed when young, live in the villages and plantations. Like the galinazos, they are extremely carnivorous, and are known frequently to seize and fly away with lambs that feed on the heaths: of this I happened to see an instance, in my way down from the signal g{ Lalanguso toward the plantation of Pul, lying near the bottom of those mountains^ Observing, on a hill adjoining to that where I was, a flock of sheep in great confusion, I saw one of thesje condors flying Upwards from it with a lamb betwixt its claws; and, when at some height, dropped it; then, following it, took it up, and let it fall a second time, when it winged its way out of sight, for fear of the Indians, who, at the cries of the boys and barkings of the dogs, were running towards the place.

In some deserts this bird is common; and as it preys on the flocks, the Indians are not wanting in their endeavours to catch them. One of the ways is,\ to kill a cow, or other beast, when of no further use, and to rub the flesh with the juice of some potent herbs, which they afterwards carry away: for otherwise the hird, sensible of them by natural instinct, would not touch the flesh. Further, to take off the smell, they bury the flesh till it becomes putrid, and then expose it; when the condors, allured by the smell of the carcase, hasten and greedily feed on it, till the herbs operate so as to render them quite senseless and incapable of motion: the Indians seize the opportunity, and destroy them. They likewise catch them with springes laid near some flesh: but such is the force of this bird, that, with a stroke of its wing, it sometimes knocks down the man who approaches

Ff3 it

^58 A VOYAGE TO Book VI.

„it. Their wing also serves them as a shield; by which they ward off blows* without receiving any hurt

The srumbjtdor, or hummer, is a night bird, pe-culiar to the mountainous deserts; and they are seldom seen, though frequently heard, both by the sing,