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Keynes, Richard Darwin ed. 1979. The Beagle record. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
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215 ^34 chiloe c.d. Breast ploughing at Chiloe Bad weather compelled the Beagle to spend a fortnight at San Carlos (now known as Ancud), a port at the northernmost end of Chiloe. june 30th - july 8th. I staid in the town of S. Carlos three days; during the greater part of this time the weather was very fine; the inhabitants themselves wondering at such an event. I do not suppose any part of the world is so rainy as the island of Chiloe
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Keynes, Richard Darwin ed. 1979. The Beagle record. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
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received two letters from Henslow, he tells me my treasures have arrived safe I am highly delighted at what he says about their value. What work I shall have, when I return; there will be a glorious mass of what Wickham calls d-d beastly devilment. Although Wickham always was growling at my bringing more dirt on board than any ten men, he is a great loss to me in the Beagle. He is far the most conversible being on board, I do not mean talks the most, for in that respect Sulivan quite bears away
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Keynes, Richard Darwin ed. 1979. The Beagle record. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
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252 1835 valdivia c.d. Chiloe On February 5 th the Beagle sailed for Valdivia, 150 miles up the coast, where Darwin was able to take a short ride. He was on shore at the time of the great earthquake of February 20th. feb. 12th. We continued to ride through the uncleared forest; only occasionally met an Indian on horseback, or a troop of fine mules bringing Alerce planks or corn from the Southern plains. In the afternoon one of the horses tired; we were then on the brow of a hill which
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Keynes, Richard Darwin ed. 1979. The Beagle record. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
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Numbers: what also appear characters of different habitations. Migrations of geese - Falkland Islands as connected with Rio Negro? 28th. Emberiza in flocks. Send watch to be mended.............. Enquire period of flooding of R. Negro and Plata. Is the cleavage of M. Video (an untroubled country) very generally vertical or what is the dip? [From notebook for 1833, Darwin and Beagle pp. 178-9] The country is remarkably easy of access to persons on foot; but half-concealed rivulets and numerous bogs
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Keynes, Richard Darwin ed. 1979. The Beagle record. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
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181 1834 port st julian r.f. Entrance to Port St julian mention, where the good qualities of the Beagle, as to sailing and working, saved us days of delay, trouble, and anxiety. All hands immediately set-to about the plan of the port, and such efficient officers as were with me made short work of it. One day Mr Darwin and I undertook an excursion in search of fresh-water, to the head of the inlet, and towards a place marked in an old Spanish plan, 'pozos de agua dulce'; but after a very
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Keynes, Richard Darwin ed. 1979. The Beagle record. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
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- and yet the Beagle is not at all a particular ship: Erasmus will clearly perceive it, when he hears that in the night I have actually sat down in the sacred precincts of the Quarter deck. You must excuse these queer letters recollect they are generally written in the evening after my days work. I take more pains over my Log Book, so that eventually you will have a good account of all the places I visit. Hitherto the voyage has answered admirably to me, yet I am now more fully aware of your
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Keynes, Richard Darwin ed. 1979. The Beagle record. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
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part return as commanded by the Pacific. The Captain, at last, to every one's joy, consented, the resignation was withdrawn. Hurra Hurra it is fixed the Beagle shall not go one mile South of C. Tres Montes (about zoo miles South of Chiloe) from that point to Valparaiso will be finished in about 5 months. We shall examine the Chonos archipelago, entirely unknown, the curious inland sea behind Chiloe. For me it is glorious. C. T. Montes is the most Southern point where there is much geological
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Keynes, Richard Darwin ed. 1979. The Beagle record. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
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fond do they appear to be of water, that it is strange they can exist for a length of time without it; yet people living at the Galapagos say that these animals can go more than six months without drinking. A very small one lived upwards of two months on board the Beagle without either eating or drinking: and whale-ships have often had them on board alive for a much longer period. Some few of the terrapin are so large as to weigh between two and three hundred weight; and, when standing up on
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8 INTRODUCTION was the firmer believer in the absolute truth of the first book of Genesis. FitzRoy's subsequent career was a distinguished one, although marred by the manic-depressive tendencies already apparent during the voyage of the Beagle. The tasks of writing his share of the Narrative, and of editing the charts and sailing directions for South American waters that resulted from the Beagle's surveys, kept him busy for several years. In 1841, thanks once more to the influence of
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, and this was largely due to his generosity. Anyhow after his death a subscription was raised to pay his debts. His end was a melancholy one, namely suicide, exactly like that of his uncle Ld Castlereagh, whom he resembled closely in manner and appearance. His character was in several respects one of the most noble which I have ever known, though tarnished by grave blemishes. The voyage of the Beagle has been by far the most important event in my life and has determined my whole career; yet it
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Keynes, Richard Darwin ed. 1979. The Beagle record. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
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that I can say with truth that in after years, though I cared in the highest degree for the approbation of such men as Lyell and Hooker, who were my friends, I did not care much about the general public. I do not mean to say that a favourable review or a large sale of my books did not please me greatly; but the pleasure was a fleeting one, and I am sure that I have never turned one inch out of my course to gain fame. Autobiography pp. 71-82 During November and December, the beagle remained at
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ease when placed on the ground. I observed that one which I kept in the cabin was slightly phosphorescent in the dark. Narrative 3 pp. 5-7 On February 8th the Beagle sailed to the south-west towards South America. Three days later Darwin dispatched his first letter home. c.d. to dr robert Darwin 2 Days sail SW of St Jago, Lat: 11 N. Feb. 10th 1832 My dear Father I have a long letter all ready written, but the conveyance by which I send this is so uncertain that I will not hazard it, but rather
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. Excepting 'Las Hormigas', on the coast of Peru, I never saw such mere rocks at so great a distance from any land. At daylight next morning, two boats were sent to land upon, and examine them; while the Beagle sailed round this 'sunk mountain top', sounding, and taking angles. Good observations were made during the day, as the sky was clear, and the water smooth. When our party had effected a landing through the surf, and had a moment's leisure to look about them, they were astonished at the
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1832 BAHIA C.D. While FitzRoy checked the performance of his chronometers and the Beagle took on water and provisions, Darwin had his first taste of tropical scenery. He was not disappointed. feb 28th. About 9 o'clock we were near to the coast of Brazil; we saw a considerable extent of it, the whole line is rather low irregular, from the profusion of wood verdure of a bright green colour. About 11 o'clock we entered the bay of All Saints, on the Northern side of which is situated the town of
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my duty, that if I neglected that duty I should at same time neglect what has for some years given me so much pleasure. Diary pp. 41-2 On March 18th the Beagle sailed south-eastwards for the Abrolhos Island, an uninhabited group for which the accuracy of the chart was to be checked. march 21 st. The greatest event of the day has been catching a fine young shark with my own hook. It certainly does not require much skill to catch them, yet this no way diminishes the interest. In this case the
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high up, near the main yard: sticking to the fish was a crab, the pain of which caused perhaps this unusual degree of action. 3rd. This morning Cape Frio was in sight: it is a memorable spot to many in the Beagle, as being the scene of the disgraceful wreck of the Thetis. All day we ran along the coast in the evening drew near to the harbour of Rio. The whole line is irregularly mountainous, interspersed with hills of singular forms. The opening of the port is recognised by one of these, the well
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1832 RIO DE JANEIRO C.D. expect to arrive at the capital of the Brazils. My last letter was from Bahia, which place the Beagle sailed from on the 18th of last month. On the whole I much enjoyed my first visit to S America. I was however very unfortunate in being confined to my hammock for eight days by a prick on the knee becoming much inflamed. Bahia has one great
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Keynes, Richard Darwin ed. 1979. The Beagle record. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
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most kind letter: you may rely on it, during the evening, I thought of the many most happy hours I have spent with you in Cambridge. I am now living at Botofogo, a village about a league from the city, shall be able to remain a month longer. The Beagle has gone back to Bahia, will pick me up on its return. There is a most important error in the longitude of S America, to settle which this second trip has been undertaken. Our Chronometers at least 16 of them, are going superbly: none on record
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Keynes, Richard Darwin ed. 1979. The Beagle record. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
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heard a clicking noise, similar to that produced by a toothed wheel passing under a spring catch. The noise was continued at short intervals, and could be distinguished at about twenty yards distance. I cannot form a conjecture how it is produced; but I am certain there is no error in the observation. Narrative 3 pp. 34-7 c.d. to miss catherine Darwin Rio de Janeiro, HMS Beagle. July 5 th My dear Catherine I have only | of an hour to write this - Sullivan will put it in his parcel, so that it will
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lightning. The tops of our masts higher yard ends shone with the Electric fluid playing about them; the form of the vane might almost be traced as if it had been rubbed with phosphorous. To complete these natural fireworks, the sea was so highly luminous that the Penguins might be tracked by the stream of light in their wake. As the night looked dirty there were heavy squalls of rain wind, we have dropped our anchor. Diary p.80 c.d. to miss susan Darwin [Beagle, at sea] My dear Susan As in all
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in imminent danger; the fore-topsail blew adrift out of the gaskets; the mainsail blew away out of the gear; the lee hammock-netting was under water; and the vessel apparently capsizing, when topmasts and jib-boom went, close to the caps, and she righted considerably. Both anchors were cut away (for the land was under our lee), and a cable veered upon each, which brought her head to wind, and upright. The heaviest rush of wind had then passed, but it was still blowing a hard gale, and the Beagle
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. Yours affectionately Chas Darwin Darwin Henslow pp. 5 7-60 r.f. to captain beaufort, private H.M.S. Beagle, Montevideo. Augt 15, 1832 My dear Sir, I have followed your advice, as to the length of letters, and am afraid that you[page
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every shot.' Robt FitzRoy Commander [from the archives of the Hydrographic Department, Taunton] On August 19th the Beagle set off on her first cruise to survey the coast around Bahia Blanca, four hundred miles south-west of the River Plate. FitzRoy took a party to visit the settlements at the head of the bay. sept. 7. Messrs Darwin, Rowlett, and Harris set out with me to visit the Buenos Ayrean settlement, called Argentina. Mr Harris undertook to be our guide, but after two hours' sailing and
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till Mr Darwin examined the Ventana, supposed they had been thrown thence: he has, however, ascertained that it is not volcanic; and, I believe, concludes that these fragments came from the Cordillera of the Andes. Narrative 2 pp. 106-8 After a few days' examination of Port Belgrano, and making inquiries of Harris, as well as those persons at Argentina who knew something of the neighbouring waters and shores, I was convinced that the Beagle alone could not explore them, so far as to make her
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cold, but by all huddling in a heap we managed pretty well till the rain began, then we were sufficiently miserable. 3 rd. At day-break things wore a very bad appearance. The sky looked dirty it blew a gale of wind; a heavy surf was roaring on the beach; what was the worst of all, the men thought this weather would last. The Beagle was pitching very deeply we thought it not impossible she would be forced to slip cable run out to sea. We afterwards heard she rode it out well, but that some of
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Keynes, Richard Darwin ed. 1979. The Beagle record. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
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then believe me, my dear Henslow, Yours very truly obliged, Chas Darwin. Remember me most kindly to Mrs Henslow. Darwin Henslow pp. 60-4 The Beagle left Montevideo on November 27th, to keep a rendezvous a week later with Lieutenant Wickham's two schooners in the bay of St Bias, on the coast some distance south of Bahia Blanca. In other respects all had prospered so well, that I determined to give Mr Wickham fresh orders, enlarging considerably his share of surveying operations. He was desired to
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of a disposition to try their strength, having more than three hundred men, while we were but thirty, I had thought it advisable, as I mentioned, to give them some idea of the weapons we had at command, if obliged to use them, by firing at a mark. Probably two- thirds of the natives around us at that time had never seen a gun fired, being strangers, coming from the Beagle Channel and its neighbourhood, where no vessel had been; and although our exercise might have frightened them more than[page
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and gloomy basin beneath the precipice, and are floated out into the channel by a slow tidal stream. In the first volume the frequent falling of these masses of ice is noticed by Captain King in the Strait of Magalhaens, and in the narrative of my first exploring visit to this arm of the Beagle Channel; therefore I will add no further remark upon the subject. Our boats were hauled up out of the water upon the sandy point, and we were sitting round a fire about two hundred yards from them, when a
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. Capt. FitzRoy has offered to take them, 22 in number, in the Beagle, to purchase on account of the owners any stores which we may want. The rest must be sacrificed. 2nd. Mr Dixon, the English resident, came on board. What a strange solitary life his must be: it is surprising to see how Englishmen find their way to every corner of the globe. I do not suppose there is an inhabited civilized place where they are not to be found. Diary pp. 13 8-9 march 2. Falkland Is not the closer connection of
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went about 300 miles were absent 23 days. The worst part was the Fuegians being in such large bodies, that we were often obliged to find a quiet sleeping place after it was dark. This often precluded us from the greatest luxury; a shingle beach for a bed. The greater part of the way was in the Beagle Channel, an arm of the sea which connects the Atlantic Pacific. Some of the scenes from their retirement others from their desolate air, were very grand. Glaciers descend to the waters edge; the azure
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1833 maldonado r.f. On arrival at Maldonado, FitzRoy chartered another small schooner, the Constitution, to return to the River Negro in search of Wickham. Next day (2d) [May] the Beagle returned to Monte Video, to procure carpenters, plank, and copper for the Adventure. I found that she was so fine a vessel, and so sound, that it was well worth while to copper her entirely
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1833 MALDONADO R.F./c.D. Farewell for a short time, my dear Sir, while I run to the Rio Negro. Your's most faithfully and respectfully, Robt FitzRoy [from the archives of the Hydrographic Department, Taunton] c.d. to professor henslow Rio de la Plata, July 18th 1833, H.M.S. Beagle My dear Henslow, My last letter was dated on the sea. I then expected to stop at the R. Negro in Patagonia
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civility were as strong as his suspicions had been before. What a Naturalista is, neither he or his countrymen had any idea; but I am not sure that my title loses any of its value from this cause. Diary pp. 182-3 c.d. to miss caroline Darwin September 20th. Buenos Ayres Dear Caroline I have just returned from a grand expedition, as a merchant vessel sails tomorrow for Liverpool. I will write as much as I can before I go to bed. The Beagle after leaving Maldonado sailed for the R. Negro. When [there] I
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person thousands of miles off, when your conscience reproaches you with having been extremely negligent and tells you that six or eight or (oh - how awful) twelve months 'History' is due to your expectant and irate correspondent. Still you get no answer - 'What is the Beagle going to do - will you tell me, or not}' Philos, be not irate; have patience, and I will tell thee all. Tomorrow we shall sail for Maldonado, there we shall remain until the middle of this month; thence we shall return to Monte
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pounds. Two males were fighting furiously galloping like race horses with their ears down necks low; they did not see me passed within 30 yards; then I settled the contest by shooting the Persecutor. D/ary pp. 200-4 copy of a letter to my brother henry H.M.S. Beagle, March 19, 1834 The hove at this place [gives] an opportunity of forwarding letters to England, all hands are therefore busy in spinning long yarns to wives, sweethearts c c,and it is with much pleasure that 1 avail myself of it to
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Beagle surveyed the coast southwards to Port St Julian. There FitzRoy and Darwin landed to look for[page
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wind was so piercingly cold, that it would prevent much enjoyment under any circumstances. I had the good luck to find some shells in the rocks near the summit. Our return was much easier as the weight of the body will force a passage through the underwood; all the slips falls are in the right direction. Diary pp. 208-9 Having surveyed the north-eastern shores of Tierra del Fuego, the Beagle sailed south through the Strait of Le Maire, and on February 25 th anchored off Wollaston Island. Darwin
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longer at Woollya; his own island, as he called it, affording safer refuge and sufficient food. Jemmy told us that these Oens-men crossed over the Beagle Channel, from eastern Tierra del Fuego, in canoes which they seized from the Yapoo Tekeenica. To avoid being separated they fastened several canoes together, crossed over in a body, and when once landed, travelled over-land and came upon his people by surprise, from the heights behind Woollya. Jemmy asserted that he had himself killed one of his
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1834 falkland islands c. d. / r . f. / c. d. On March 10th the Beagle anchored once more in Berkeley Sound, to be greeted with the news that their friend Mr Brisbane, who had helped them the previous year, had been brutally murdered on August 26th. However, Lieutenant Smith of the Royal Navy had subsequently managed to restore order. march 10th. Arrived in the middle of the day at Berkeley Sound, having made a short passage by
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observations we ran on to P. Famine, justly so called from the terrible sufferings of Sarmiento's colony. Of this there is not now the least vestige; everything is covered up by the deep entangled forest of Beech. We then returned to the outside coast completed the Chart of the Eastern side. When this was finished, after visiting some of the Southern islands, we beat up through the magnificent scenery of the Beagle channel to Jemmy Button's country. We could hardly recognize poor Jemmy; instead of the
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current is very inferior. In such a bight, close to the high cliffs on the southern shore, the Beagle was moored. One may readily conceive the different views presented in this situation, with forty feet change in the level of the water. At high-water, a noble river, unimpeded, moves quietly, or is scarcely in motion. At the other time, a rushing torrent struggles between numerous banks, whose dark colour and dismal appearance adds to the effect of the turbidly yellow water, and naked-looking
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being out, and every one weary and foot-sore, I decided upon walking overland to the westward, as far as we could go in one day, and then setting out on our return to the Beagle. I was the more inclined to this step, because the river here made a southerly bend, to follow which would have required at least a day, without making much westing, and because I thought that some of our party might walk in that time at least twice as far as they could track the boats, and then return before night. To
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Master Megatherium Mastodon. If I have a good opportunity, I will send home some more of my journal; which will give you some account of the Pampas galloping. I am ashamed for sending such a letter, but take the will for the deed Believe me, my dearest Caroline, Yours most aifectionately Chas Darwin My love to every body at home August 12th Darwin and Beagle pp. 104-6[page
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have been at work. A. M. Gay has given me today a copy of a paper, with some interesting details about the Geology of this province published by himself in the Annales des Sciences. I have been very busy all day, and have seen a host of people. I called on Col Walpole, but he was in bed - or said so. Corfield took me to dine with a Mr Kennedy, who talks much about the Adventure Beagle; he says he saw you at Chiloe. I have seen a strange genius, a Major Sutcliffe; he tells me as soon as he heard
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241 1834 chile c.d. Give my best love to my Father all of you, Believe me My very dear Caroline, Yours affectionately Charles Darwin Darwin and Beagle pp. 106-9 [continuation of letter to Henslow begun on July 24th] October 28th: This letter has been lying in my port-folio ever since July: I did not send it away, because I did not think it worth the postage: it shall now go with a box of specimens: shortly after arriving here, I set out
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happened on Christmas Day and New Year's Day. Every other day for eight weeks we were hard at work. It is very curious that I am always in better health in a boat, for I never have enjoyed such perfect good health for two months since leaving England. [extracts from Lieutenant Sulivan's letters - Sulivan (1896)] Leaving Sulivan to continue the survey off Chiloe, the Beagle spent the next month in the Chonos Archipelago. Darwin found plenty to interest him in both the geology and the zoology of this
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. Beech; they were poor stunted little trees, at an elevation of little less than a 1000 feet. This must be, I should apprehend from their appearance, nearly their Northern limit. We ultimately gave up the ascent in despair. Diary pp. 2 5 6-7 'Beagle' at sea, November 15th, 1834. It [Chiloe] will be a pleasant cruise, and all the officers want to go with me. I am to have Usborne, Johnson, and King, the assistant surgeon, and five men, besides the pilot, making a party of ten. We shall have the dinghy
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happened on Christmas Day and New Year's Day. Every other day for eight weeks we were hard at work. It is very curious that I am always in better health in a boat, for I never have enjoyed such perfect good health for two months since leaving England. [extracts from Lieutenant Sulivan's letters - Sulivan (1896)] Leaving Sulivan to continue the survey off Chiloe, the Beagle spent the next month in the Chonos Archipelago. Darwin found plenty to interest him in both the geology and the zoology of this
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254 1835 concepcion c.d./r.f. compelled them to stay all night, a sore plague both to us them. They in return gave a ball, which was attended by nearly all on board. Those who went returned exceedingly well pleased with the people of Valdivia. The Signoritas are pronounced very charming; and what is still more surprising, they have not forgotten how to blush, an art which is at present quite unknown in Chiloe. Diary pp. 277-8 The Beagle
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have fancied myself collecting in England. A new pretty genus of Nudibranch Mollusc: which cannot crawl on a flat surface: a genus in the family of Balanidae, which has not a true case, but lives in minute cavities of the shells of the Concholopas, are nearly the only two novelties. You were surprised at hearing of land Planariae; you will equally be so, when you see leaches, which live entirely out of water in the forests of Chiloe Valdivia. Before the Beagle sails for Lima, I shall be obliged
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