[328]

Chiloe

Jan^r. 1835

binder: cut away blank pages

page in ink.
binder...pages] not in Darwin's hand.

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22^d. [January 1835]

After the stony grey Lava we meet, with slate & coloured, conch: fracture base. with acicular crystals of feldspar & others;

Bivouaced

we then meet true greenstone

the former resembles some of the dykes & metamorphic beds in Chili — These occur at about 1/4^th of distance: The country is then covered up by yellow clay — soft sandstone & much gravel — all marine deposit. — Country very undulating. — trees

Bivouaced] added ink.

[328b]

very lofty matted by lanes —

before road people lost their lives — great undertaking

generally, but not always, logs of wood: — dexterity of horses —

joined woman & her son:

rather interesting scene —

patches of dead trees, bad wind. — only two houses & small cleared spots

many cheucacas & Barking birds — Vaginulus

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Black — common crawls in enemy — female Lucan shows fight — erect front legs — [Moralled] & went outside coast in Peinago & to Chonos — Gloomy narrow damp avenue, white winding lane of logs:

23^rd [January 1835]

Slept at deserted little sheds of militia men, who work on road — Beautiful night. — Virgin forest distinct guided by number of dead trees

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some 100 ft high, very straight & large boles — 20

Much gravel & sand thick beds, some hundred feet thick. — I see the interior highest land, perhaps 1000 ft — is a perfect plain. — The A lower one along which the road is much less high perhaps = 500 ft plain of my drawing at Castro. — all composed of sand & gravel in horizontal lines or

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current cleavage: like Alluvium of Severn —

we loose the clay therefore probably the Volcanic rocks near Castro much blocks of Mica Slate —

It is clear the highest plain must have been deposited beneath water: general Alluvium conclusion:

Whole Chiloe may be considered as coated with Tertiary gravel

some plains near Castro beds of white sand, like sea beaches cemented: could not

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have been formed by Alluvial action, which inclined strata, sometimes tempted one to suppose. — Near Castro thick bed of shells 25 ft above high water mark:

Mem near S Carlos: — were joined by fresh parties on foot & horseback, [shallowness] although bringing food: respect people yet would only eat our; sitting watching us — till we were almost obliged to feed them: which our weakness or goodnature did to form or fire extra the

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whole two days: Arrived at pretty. retired Castro at 2 oclock. — old Governor dead — new one very obliging
beastly dirty — accompanied us. — meal on journeys

24^th [January 1835]

Shortly after starting came to a very pretty, but small waterfall. — surrounded by lofty trees — black large basin 120 ft high, & some more. —
single sheet of water: T del Fuego beech = We procured

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another governor — sort of man on the road — who was perfectly astounded to know what we were going for "Come now tell me, where you are really going for?" — We followed coast to Yuched, & struck off into interior; intricate roads a very pretty variegated country, cleared out of the magnificent forest. — Met many men — all so extremely friendly — drove of cows — from Rodeo, more men on horseback, than

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cattle; caught by dogs by ears & then with Lazo —

An Indian, about 50 years ago opened the road in 8 days rewarded by great grant of land — Indians sometimes traverse the Island steering by sun; sleeping in a given position so as to know their direction in the morning continuance of cloudy weather cannot move — a single Indian found the shipwreck on outer coast, who were

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beginning to fail in provisions, & could by no means pass the wood — Enormous exertion men

Indians here crossed from Cucao to Castro in straight line. —

Coast quite impracticable, or else we had intended to have walked up it —

Mica slate near Castro, similar to South — dip very irregular perhaps East — Also some in Cascade Lakes —

Bed of comminuted shells in every part from 30-60 feet above high water mark — Arrived at borders of a fine lake

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12 miles long — The East end has three or four houses, called Villinco = Determined to embark — in one of the curious periaguas — A cow was to be our companion — They pull her to the edge of canoes with two oars tumbled her into boat — Governor extremely anxious for us to see every thing by Land — pulled with [fe ]

counted the few nails of the Periaguas (properly speaking they have none) & with outstretched

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neck watched the motion of our companion the cow was horror-struck, that the stream would carry us out of sea !!! Chileno! —

Regularity of winds in Cucao, very surprising = The Indian, although to be paid, required almost to be pressed = They exerted themselves like animals, the steers man on our second Governor, shouting to them like sheep =

Reached Cucao, before 10 o'clock & soon found an uninhabited house & made a fire & were comfortable: The most ugly

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set of men who ever were in a boat together. —

not far from the sea = Can hear the roar at Castro.

25^th — [January 1835]

Capella — a Barn — about 30 or 40 Indians: no trade:

houses scattered over much ground. — Poor & ill — treated by Patria: apathy. when said not to work: but in morning "they take all our profits."
Come from Huafo — same dialect all over Islands — diff from Auracan yet Mari = [word obscured]

Borliche or Walliche language

[Bybenicas] have forgot these

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believe to have come from the South — do not believe in Razene & Chaves coming from North — know name of first tribe — missionaries tempted Indian from Chonos by presents to come & live in Ceylon, & from Huafo: think that others perhaps migrated from fear: — Agrees with account of Lomas Harbor men: — Have not their Caciques: — How completely separated from the world is Cucao, The sea a complete

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barrier — injured by law suits, & most arbitrary treatment: Painfully Humble & civil — Ave Maria; when they heard was round & in the air = A good deal of Mica slate as before with quartz plates, passing into finer sorts, & then into [Ampolite] ! dip exceedingly difficult to be known: yet found one good strat dip E by N. 10º or 12º —

[328i]

Chepones

Fruit of Bromelia — & chichi of Lowes Harbor —

Road to top of P Huantamo quite impassable dreadful:

horses, being led, could only just crawl through: & none but Chilotan horses — yet better than road from Cucao! — Good land =

Donax of Quintero. — Splendid weather. after last six weeks dirt — Coast quite impass: across mountain have cut their way in 7 days. — Open traits up aloft —

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26th — [January 1835]

Again embarked, on board Periagua — pull much better, than any one would suppose: 3 miles an hour against a light breeze = Indians pretty well dressed = Beastly dirty bivouac = very easy to ingratiate = White sugar =

Don Pedro & Commandante most kind to us — but very haughty to the Indians I command thee to stop:

very rude: = Fires all over the country — Reached

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[Chapels]

Castro late in the evening — after dining with commandante —

27^th [January 1835]

Returned on road to S. Carlos — all first half maybe considered as Tertiary plain =

Splendid farewell views of Cordilleras Corcovado table [Plain] & forest deep valley — stately & well grown trees
few blue summits:

Guid-guid builds on ground — amongst sticks¹

¹ The guid-guid is also known as the black-throated huet huet, Pteroptochos tarnii. It was described by John Gould in Birds, p. 71.

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28th [January 1835]

Started before daylight & reached Castro before noon —

Lava perhaps as far as River which crosses the road —

Greenish slate coloured bare with acicular crystals of glossy feldspar —

(Correct Jesuits Church)