[954]

dip		dip		dip
[illeg] by N	N by E	SE by S	NE by E	SE by E ++	NE by N ++
[illeg] by W	NE by N	NW +	NE +	SE by E +	NE by N +
[illeg] E	NE	NW	NE	SW	SE
[illeg] by E	NE by W	W	N	W by N +	N by E + ( [illeg] N.)
	N	SE +	NE +	SW by W	SE by S
	E			NW	NE
				NW by W	NE by N
[illeg] first Fort		Between do fort & light house.		Between lighthouse & N S. de Gracia

[the left margin of the table is obscured by tape.]

Stratification very obscure, parts near town, like King Georges Sound mere waving lines; granite there siliceous. — where gneiss appears, sometimes even horizontal, in great circles: & irregularly yet upon the whole I really think a NE by N dip strike is just discernable. — dip oftener to SE than NW; angle [very] various. —

East Land a plain as seen from sea, peninsula but termination of chain of hills. water [soon] — flat valleys — little terrain in front of red clay — some ferruginous sandstones. — Conglomerates forming archways — Vast number of dikes. Many 3 & 4 yards wide close together — have aspect of true dike. parellel seams angular pieces of embedded granite. parallel dikes. — black very heavy Porphyry. minute crystal of glassy feldspar. many faults. — dike of this formation: one side as if fault, pieces removed, & [defressenated] within foot of space, in [flocculent] pieces in granite. Certainly appears as if granite has been melted — Mem last years section. — yet hard to believe not part of great neighbouring — stone of dike as at K. Georges Sound. Blueish grey compact gneiss, in parts silicious fine grained

V. specimen felspathic

[sketch to the right of this text]

A red granite

Dyke 45^d wide

[954v]

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seams highly micaceous. — quartzy veins, red-granite dike & masses, & irregular structure throughout gneiss. —

Parts of gneiss, globular structure like some trap rocks. — I saw the fissure with calcareous matter — a considerable quantity of chlorite

Tuesday 2^d. [August 1836]

dip	run
	W & E
	WSW & ENE
NW by N	NE by E
do	do
N	E & W
W	N
	NE by N
E by N	N by W

From the Light house, proceeding East, then northwards: in whole way NW dip at all clear, certain generally a curvilinear structure, contorted, yet minerals always arranged in planes but not laminated rocks. — All that can be said is that the NE by N strike is not more infrequent than any other = In certain parts large crystals, or lumps of garnets see specimens. = Parts of globular granite, (compacted with the trap structure already mentioned). — honeycombed like sandstone. cylindrical vertical. rounded bottom; 2 or 3 diameters long, almost touching each other; from less than 1 & 1/2 inches to 3 inches diameter, full of water. = Country plain. Valleys as in Patagonia surface looks like red clay — on coast there is little curious — yet one mass quite soft. (see specimen) intersected granite like a dike. — (NB. Specimen of black angular fragments in dike granite), in some of decomposed granite. on plain small rounded quartzy pebbles. — a spherical decomposing structure visible = Plain slopes to seaward = Hard rock on coast entirely coated with marine bodies = the siliceous sandstone on the coast dips seaward. — separated by some yards of space from cliff of coast. forming low escarpment, is abundant, hard to tell which of these formations of to day & which yesterday. = Eschwege, Spix, &Smyth suggest be consulted. =

At a part of beach, — gneiss passing into greenstone coated, like varnish, most glassy, rich brown country: all rocks nearly a like; on each side & in bed of stream, small, muddy: only over rock in upper tidal limit gradually disappearing. above spring. — not on coast any other part or in stream. — [coating] on quartz pebbles (& on pebbles in crevices)

¹ Eschwege 1832, Spix 1824, presumably Captain William Carmichael Smyth, R.N., whom Darwin mentioned as providing him with information in Coral reefs, p. 158. (JvW)

[955]

[Bonfin] — stratification very irregular, grouping of masses unintelligble — partly highly inclined, other sections of strata capping conformably irregularities, in truth probably subsidence. — Conglomerates very coarse, hard, next in quantity to conglomerate. a fine grained slaty dark [illeg] grey sandstone passing in clay slate, which substance predominate parts. — some of the sandstone strata hard & grey. — Parts of the masses micaceous — thickest part about 40 ft: — shales pale grey to dark blue, even black; only remarkable circumstance irregular cut masses (some yards across) others small of about angular shapes, hard grey non: calc: sandstone (embedded the more aluminous & darker coloured varieties) surface rough covered with minute point & lines. — concretions pass into strata. — These sandstones contain the F.O. shells. — specimens (          ). All the Helix-like shells found in the spot, the elongated kind most common. — considerably blow below high water mark (with Balanidae adhering to F.W. shells & dipping seaward. — covered by 40 ft. — subsidence [one word obscured by tape] on hole of 50 ft deep. occupied by fresh water. — (no Earthquakes). I think [illeg] then became perhaps grouped in families. I saw them only in these concretions —. NB Shell from & by [Bones] R. San. Francisco: Perhaps centre of Bonfin granitic axis. — No Barrier can be imagined to old Lake or old creek. — The connections with surfaces, apparently old seam, encrusted with distinct [2 words illeg] of Calc: Spar — N. B. I believe last year F.W. shells came from concretions, below merely to be reached at lowest water. — Because the wall seems to be basalt of such stone quarried from such situation. — In sandstone these veins & pisolitic balls of ferrug: sandstone [small sketch] vertical fissure & many home fissure secretion. —

[955v]

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mahogany colouring in few parts blackish — stream with patches of ferrug: sandstone & conglomerate in bed. — all water is thus granitic land do = large fragment long ago broken off, perhaps for neighbouring old building, coated nearly as brightly — (see spec:), action of sea — polish resembling calc: rock at Ascension. — Mem. [moonrock] & Mica when stream rapid ?? — rock in sun & dry very pretty more so, than specimens show — a mere few yards in extent. = not effervesce, not stain Borax purple. —

NB The broard rectangular fissure in the modern sandstone rather singular. —

Sailed (6^th) [August 1836]

Monday, Aug 1^t [1836]. Entered, little disappointment, novelty & surprise gone, & circumstance not very favourable in evening took walk & Aug 2^d do. — a great untidy hot house, smell, ornamented with houses & artificial gardens (well contrasted to wild luxuriance of houses nature) — [small sketch] Portugeese architecture. — hills & valleys — nature's menagerie for insects. — magnificent mango Jack Fruit & Orange, Cocoa Nut & Palm. — Splendid greens with bright sun — open epithet upon epithet. Botanic tell you name after name, & a short characteristic of each but that fail to all but the learned traveller. — distant low land across the bay. [Much] of [Boats] country itself a plain 2-300 ft [worn] by valleys (oh what delicious shady spots) but red hillocks [when some view] peep out. —
[sentence interlined] & I stopped & stopped again to gaze on such beauty & to try to fix an impression which alas must die away merely leaving a Banana, a coco nut, [red] fruit trees, but the thousand beauties must perish in one's mind.

Fishing village; — grass hills — fine wild sea — Cocoa nuts — Number of blacks insurrection — women carrying heavy stones — almost wished for it. if without blood-shedding. Every lover of Nature, would do anything to see another planet, but the Tropics are other planet. — long city - churches convents, older & richer look than East coast of America, a marked style of architecture. — long to live some time there to drink deeply of these charms. —

Wednesday [3 August 1836] Pic nic: — Thursday [4 August 1836]. Bonfin — Well wet through
vertical sun best tops of trees — greatest pleasure I ever enjoyed; alternate view, all beautiful, structure of country - elements of views — Palms — If England had possessed it. —

These passages form the basis for part of Darwin's discussion in the Beagle diary, pp. 433ff. (JvW)

[956]

Examined the dikes. — The singular one with [small eject] of feld. & smal black, heavy base; is wonderfully crossed by faults & threads traverse whole neighboring gneiss. — I can just fancy water so injected. — rather different constitution from neighbouring grand dike — some of the faults appear as if intermediate space of red, hornblendic granite, [small sketch]

It is hard to set limits to injection of fluid rock — but certainly the threads & projecting points of Granite seem wonderfully blended together. Threads proceed from dikes, intersect some red granite. — & close by red granite [external] black angular pieces, which latter at least I think are embedded because cleavage seem rather to fold round them — Yet many of these angular pieces are deceptive, from oblique section irregular exposure of wall of irregular dike: — The number of great dikes considerable,

[956v]

decomposed granite capped with [illeg] bright red quartz clay, which generally is capped with few quartzy pebbles or rounded pieces of Granite — doubtful how far follow inequalities. — This covered by a pebbly earth. covering conforming to inequalities of country. — smooth — Mem creek Island along coast. — Some fine Porph. gneiss — 1/10

NB. The idea of ferruginous veins Bonfin being secretion will agree with their circular forms. — & concretionary process for causing a globular construction & hence do fissure

[in ink:] Bahia Brazil Aug: 1836