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INDIA DIRECTORY,

OR

Directions for sailing

TO AND FROM THE

EAST INDIES,

China

NEW HOLLAND, CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, BRAZIL,

AND THE

INTERJACENT PORTS:

COMPILED CHIEFLY FROM

ORIGINAL JOURNALS AT THE EAST INDIA HOUSE,

AND FROM

Observations and Remarks,

MADE DURING TWENTY-ONE YEARS EXPERIENCE NAVIGATING IN THOSE SEAS.

BY

JAMES HORSBURGH, F.R.S. A.S.

CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE IMPERIAL ACADEMY OF SCIENCES ST. PETERSBURGH,
HYDROGRAPHER TO THE HONORABLE EAST INDIA COMPANY.

They that go down to the sea in ships, that do business in great waters; these see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep. Psalm CVII. v. 23, 24.

VOLUME SECOND.

THIRD EDITION.

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR,

AND SOLD BY

PARBURY, ALLEN, AND CO. BOOKSELLERS TO THE HONORABLE EAST INDIA COMPANY,

No. 7, LEADENHALL STREET.

1827.

Entered at stationers Dall.

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PLUMMER AND BRRWIS, PRINTERS, LOVE LANK,
KASTCHEAR.

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TO THE

HONORABLE THE COURT OF DIRECTORS

OF THE

United East India Company.

HONORABLE SIRS,

PERMIT ME to dedicate to your Honorable Court, a new and much improved edition of the India Directory, which is designed to contribute to the safety and facility of the navigation to, and from India to China, and throughout the seas eastward of the Cape of Good Hope, being highly essential to the interests of the Company, as well as to the prosperity of the British Empire. As it was originally undertaken and completed under the auspices of the Honorable Court, after several years laborious and minute investigation of their maritime records, added to the experience and knowledge acquired during a very long period of navigating in those seas, the author begs leave to submit to the Honorable Directors, this corrected edition, comprising above one hundred and thirty additional pages of new and important information, as a small but sincere testimony of the esteem and respect which he entertains for their patronage and favor, and to subscribe himself

Their very faithful

And most obliged Servant,

JAMES HORSBURGH.

Hydrographical Office, East India House,
London, June 10th, 1827.

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CONTENTS.

	PAGE
EASTERN SIDE of the Bay of Bengal. Coasts of Chittagong, Aracan, and Ava, with Sailing Directions. 1st. Coast of Chittagong	1
2d. Coast of Arracan, or Aracan, from the White Cliffs to the Island Cheduba	5
3d. Directions for Sailing to the Town of Cheduba, and betwixt that Island and the main	7
4th. Coast of Ava to Cape Negrais, and the Islands adjacent	9
Coast of Pegu; Directions for Sailing to, and from Rangoon River	13
Tanassorim Archipelago, Aladin, and Seyer Islands; and that Coast from Mergui to Junkseylon, with Sailing Directions	25
Andaman Archipelago; with Sailing Directions	30
Nicobar Islands, with Sailing Directions	38
West Coast of Sumatra. 1st Achen, and the circumjacent Islands; Sailing Directions, Winds, and Currents	44
2d. Monsoons; Channels along the West Coast of Sumatra; and Sailing Directions from Achen Head to Bancoongong Bay	49
3d. Directions for Sailing along the Coast from Bancoongong to Padang; adjoining Islands and Shoals. Directions to Sail from Padang to the northward	57
4th. Coast, Islands, and Shoals, from Padang to Fort Marlborough, with Sailing Directions	71
5th. Coast from Fort Marlborough to Flat Point, with Sailing Directions	81
Principal Islands fronting the West Coast of Sumatra; with Sailing Directions, and Borneo Coral Isles	84
Sailing Directions to, and from the Strait of Sunda, and toward the Straits East of Java; North Coast of the former, and adjoining Islands	99
South side of Sunda Strait, with Sailing Directions to Batavia	108
Directions for Sailing from Batavia, and Sunda Strait, to the Strait of Banca: Islands and Dangers in the Passage	119
Strait of Banca; with Sailing Directions	125
Directions to Sail from the Northward, through the Straits of Banca and Sunda	136
Gaspar Straits, with Sailing Directions; N. E. Coast of Banca	140
Sailing Directions from Banca Strait to Pulo Aor. Islands and Dangers adjacent to the Passage. Directions for Rhio Strait	154
Directions for Sailing from Banca Strait, through the Straits of Dryon. To return southward by the same route	159
Directions for Sailing through the Straits of Durian, and Phillip's Channel	166
Strait of Malacca. 1st. Description of Winds and Currents: Directions for Sailing into, or out of the Strait	169
2d. Coast of Pedir, with Sailing Directions along this Coast to Diamond Point	174
3d. Directions for the N. E. Coast of Sumatra, from Diamond Point to Brewer's Strait and Siak River	177
4th. Malay side of the Strait, from Junkseyton to Prince of Wales' Island, with Sailing Directions	183

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5th. Directions for Sailing from Prince of Wales Island to the Arroas, and from thence to Parcelar Hill	189
6th. Directions for Sailing from the Sambilangs, to Salangore, and through the Strait of Callam	197
7th. Instructions for Sailing from Parcelar Hill to Cape Rachado, and from thence to Malacca	200
8th. Directions for Sailing from Malacca to Singapore Strait: Coasts, Islands, Banks, and Dangers	208
9th. Singapore Strait; Directions for Sailing through it into the China Sea	214
Directions to enter Singapore Strait, and to return by it, and Malacca Strait	228
China Sea, Monsoons, Winds, Ty-Foongs, and Currents	232
Instructions for Sailing through the China Sea, to, or from Canton River, at all Seasons	236
Islands in the S.Western part of the China Sea; East Coast of Malay; with Sailing Directions	245
Sailing Directions to, and from Siam: Coast of Cambodia; Pulo Oby, Pulo Condore, and adjacent Islands, with Sailing Directions	257
Sailing Directions for the Coast of Tsiompa; Pulo Ceicer de Mer, Pulo Sapata, Catwicks, contiguous Channels, and Dangers	264
Coast of Cochin-China, from Cape Padaran to Cape Turon; Directions for Sailing into the Harbours, and along the Coast	272
Gulf of Tonking, and the Island Hainan, with Sailing Directions	281
Additional Description of the South East Coast of Hainan	287
Paracels, and the Banks or Dangers in the northern part of the China Sea	291
Islands and Harbours on the South Coast of China, westward of Canton River, with Sailing Directions	296
Islands, Channels, Bays, or Harbours, on the Coast of China, eastward of, and near Canton River; with Directions for Sailing toward that River	308
Directions for Sailing into the Typa, also from Macao Road to Bocca Tigris, and from thence into Canton River, to the Second Bar, and to Whampoa	324
Directions to accompany the Chart of Canton River, from the anchorage below the Second Bar to Whampoa Reach, shewing the Dangers of the Second Bar, First Bar, and Brunswick Rock, with marks to avoid them	335
Coast of China to the eastward of the Lema Channel, with Sailing Directions for Ta-thong-moon Passage, Mir's Bay, Harlem Bay, and Ty-poong Harbour; with brief Directions for Sailing to Amoy, Chinchew, and Chusan Harbours; and from thence to the Gulf of Petche-lee	338
Yellow Sea, and Gulf of Petche-lee; with Sailing Directions	354
Directions for Sailing between Canton River and Manilla Bay, in either Monsoon; and to Pulo Aor, and the Strait of Banca, in the N. E. Monsoon	359
Directions for Sailing to Canton River, also to, and from Manilla, by the Outer Passage. Shoals in the S. Eastern part of the China Sea, and near the Palawan Passage, and the Island Palawan	363
West and North Coasts of Luzon, or Luconia, and the Islands contiguous; with Sailing Directions	373
Islands, Channels, and Dangers to the northward of Luconia; with Sailing Directions from Canton River to New South Wales	379
Instructions for Sailing through Balabac Straits, to the Moluccas, to Sooloo, and the Islands decribed. Surigao Passage, Embocadero, and East Coast of Luconia	391
West Coast of Borneo: Directions for Sailing along it, also between it and Billiton, by the Carimata Passage, toward the Straits East of Java, or to the Strait of Macassar	402
Eastern Passage to China, through the Strait of Macassar. Directions for approaching it from southward, and to Sail from Batavia through the Strait: adjacent Headlands, Islands, and Dangers	417
Directions for Sailing from the Strait of Macassar, between Mindanao and Celebes, into the Pacific Ocean: Coasts, Channels, and Islands	431

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Directions for Sailing from the Strait of Macassar to the westward of the Philippine Islands. Channels, Dangers, and Headlands adjoining	438
Directions for the returning Passage from China, on the West sides of the Philippine Islands	451
Eastern Route to China, by the Pitt's Passage. 1st Directions for Sailing from Batavia to the Straits of Salayer: adjoining Islands, Banks, and Dangers	455
2d. Instructions for Sailing through the Pitt's Passage; contiguous Islands and Coasts	467
3d. Gillolo Passage: Islands and Harbours adjacent, with Sailing Directions	474
4th. Dampier's, and Pitt's Straits, with Sailing Directions: Coasts, Islands, and contiguous Dangers	483
Instructions for Sailing from Dampier's Strait to ward China: Coasts, Islands, and Dangers, adjacent to the Passage	493
Directions for Sailing from China, outside of the Philippine Islands, and through the Pitt's Passage into the Ocean	504
Straits to the eastward of Java. 1st. North, and Eastern parts of Java: adjacent Islands, Straits of Bally, and Lombock, with Sailing Directions	509
2d. Great Pater Nosters; Straits of Allass and Sapy, with Sailing Directions	521
3d. Description of Flores; Islands, Dangers, and Straits adjacent; with Sailing Directions	528
4th. Wetter, Timor, and other Islands contiguous to the Ombay Passage; with Sailing Directions	538
Monsoons, Winds, and Weather; Islands in the Molucca, and Banda Seas; with Sailing Directions	547
Passage to China, eastward of New Holland. Van Diemen's Land, and the contiguous Ports; with Sailing Directions	558
Ports, or Places of Shelter, on the S. E. Coast of New South Wales; with Sailing Directions to, and from Port Jackson	566
Sailing Directions from Van Diemen's Land, or Port Jackson, by Northern Routes toward India or China. Contiguous Islands and Dangers	574
Passage from India toward Europe. 1st. Instructions for Sailing from India, round the Cape of Good Hope, to St. Helena	597
2d. Instructions for Sailing from St. Helena to the Island Ascension, and toward the British Channel. Description of the Islands Azores	601
3d. Directions for entering the British Channel, and to Sail inward to the Downs	605

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Errata.

By a careful revision of the press, typographical errors have been nearly excluded from this extensive work; all that have been discovered, after a rigld examination, are the following.

Page, Line.

246–13 from bottom, for Jarra read Jarrang.

ERRATA ADDITIONAL TO VOL. I.

Page. Line3

153 – 2 for 43° 40′ do. Foot Note, line 3d, for eastward read westward.

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EASTERN SIDE

OF THE

BAY OF BENGAL.

COASTS of CHITTAGONG, ARACAN, and AVA, with SAILING DIRECTIONS.

1st. COAST OF CHITTAGONG.

White Cliffs and adjacent coast.

WHITE SANDY CLIFFS, fronting the sea on the northern part of the coast of Aracan, begin nearly at Elephant Point in lat. 21° 10′, extending to 21° 24′ N., and are separated by the opening of Cruzcool, from Mascall Island and the Coast of Chittagong. The opening of Cruzcool, called also Coxe's Bazar, has deep water inside, but it will only admit small vessels in the channel, which is formed between a reef that fronts the main at Coxe's Bazar, and the reef that stretches from Red Crab Island a great way to the South and S. Eastward, and joining to the southern part of the large Island, Mascall. Red Crab Island, situated on the western extremity of this reef in lat. 21° 28′ N., and about 2½ miles from the S.W. end of Mascall, is a small sandy island, with some shrubs on it, having breakers extending around to a considerable distance, with very irregular soundings near them. In the channel leading to Coxe's Bazar, there are 2½ to 3½ fathoms water, between the reefs which form it, and it extends nearly due north to the S. E. point of Mascall.

January 22d, 1825, Capt. Crawford, in the Research, worked into Coxe's Bazar, with the flotilla of gun vessels in company, and the least water on the bar, was 3 fathoms hard bottom. At noon anchored in the harbour, in 12 fathoms, extremes of Mascall Island from North to N. 55° W., centre of Red Crab Tree Island Reefs N. 70° W., another Island N. 83° W., entrance of Ramoo Creek S. E. distant ¼ of a mile, Sandy Entrance Point S. 25° W., and the Outer Pagoda on a Hill S. 14° E.

From lat, 21° N. to the White Cliffs, the coast of Aracan is bold and safe to approach, with good anchorage ground. Vessels bound to Chittagong, or those that may be driven to the eastward by stress of weather in the S.W. monsoon, usually endeavour to make this part of the coast, which requires great caution, as the weather is mostly thick and stormy, and the White Cliffs low, and not easily discerned, unless the sun is shining bright to the westward; so that if a ship go so close in, as to make this part, with a strong breeze, and a tide of 4 or 5 knots on the flood, she will not be able to haul out sufficiently to clear the Kuttupdeah sands, more particularly the outer patch, and will therefore be obliged to anchor in a heavy sea, with strong tides, at all times to be avoided if possible.

Between the third and fourth of the Sandy Cliffs, coming from the northward, there is a small run of fresh water, where ships which happen to be becalmed in the fair season, might obtain a supply of that necessary article.

Directions.

If a ship make the land here, she must haul immediately to the westward, to avoid the Banks of Kuttupdeah and Mascall, which commence off the entrance of Coxe's Bazar; some

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of them are 9 or 10 miles off shore, and the outermost bank is steep on all sides, having from 15 to 20 fathoms close to, and only 6 or 8 feet on it at low water.

October 3d, 1822, Capt. Allport, sailed from Chittagong River for Bengal, and at 6 P. M. tacked in 12 fathoms, with a shoal of high breakers bearing W. S.W. about 1 mile, with discoloured water extending about 2 miles to the southward, and the shoal appeared nearly dry at low tide: this danger he made in lat. 21° 34′ N. and 14 or 15 miles west of Chittagong. Capt. Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, states this patch to be in lat. 21° 33′ N., and about.10 miles west of Chittagong, being steep to, from 11 to 2 fathoms at a cast; but its tail extends down to about lat a 21° 20′ N. with from 4 to 9 fathoms on its extremity, and it has lately been called the Patch Sand.

THE FLOOD sets toward the entrance of Coxe's Bazar, and the channel that separates Mascall Island from Kuttupdeah, rendering it doubly necessary to keep a good offing, after seeing the White Cliffs.

If hazy Weather prevent the White Cliffs from being discerned until a ship approach near them, when the wind is too far westerly for her to clear the shoals, a place of shelter for small vessels may be found, by sailing within the westernmost shoal, or even within Kuttupdeah if necessary. To gain this place, pass Red Crab Island in 8 fathoms, bearing East 2 or 3 miles, and from this station, steer about N. by W. in 10 to 15 fathoms until the passage between Kuttupdeah and Mascall is quite open; then steer direct for the opening, about N.E. by N., in 7 to 10 fathoms water, taking care to avoid the shoals lining the shore on both sides of the entrance; having got within the point of Kuttupdeah, you may anchor secure, in 10 fathoms soft ground. From the point of that island, a spit extends S. W. by S. several miles, with breakers on it in some places; and a bank stretches from the Mascall shore to the distance of 1¼ mile, both of which will be avoided by keeping the passage quite open as directed above. It would be improper to run 1 mile within the point of Kuttupdeah, for about 2 miles within the entrance, a bank projects from that island more than half way across the channel. The channel that separates Mascall Island from the mainland is narrow, having only 1 fathom water in some places.

Uckoia channel.

THE CHANNEL inside of Kuttupdeah, which separates it from the north part of Mascall Island and from the main, called Uckoia by the natives, is only safe for small vessels, the soundings in it being various, from 1½ or 2, to 4, 5, and 6 fathoms. The northern entrance of this channel, formed between the north end of Kuttupdeah and Cuckold's Point, is contracted by banks on each side which stretch to a considerable distance to seaward, having 1½, 2, or 3 fathoms in the passage between them. These banks are visible when the tide is low, but are overflowed in high tides, making it prudent for a vessel going in or out by this passage, to keep a boat sounding on each bow.

About 3 or 4 miles inside of Cuckold's Point, lies the entrance of Kentlaw River, having 3 or 4 fathoms between the banks that project from each side; this river affords good shelter in the S.W. monsoon for small vessels, but is not above a cable's length from side to side, and ½ a mile inside, it divides into two branches: one of these takes an easterly direction to Julkuddar Fort, where there is fresh water; the other called Khaut Colley, stretches to the West and N. Westward, and communicates with the sea a little to the northward of Cuckold's Point, by which that part of the land forms an island. Khaut Colley River or Creek, is very shoal, and will not admit vessels of any size, but the opposite entrance of Kentlaw, although narrow, forms a safe harbour.

Kuttupdeah, or

KUTTUPDEAH ISLAND is low and woody, about 4 leagues in length nearly N. by E. and S. by W., the north end being in lat. 21° 56′ N. On the south end there is fresh water close to a tope of trees, and several creeks are found on the eastern side, one of these

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called Pilot Cotta Creek, divides the island in two pasts, having 5 or 6 fathoms water at its eastern entrance, and 5 feet on the bar where it joins the sea on the west side of the island. The south part of this island has extensive sands projecting from it, as far south as the dangerous patch in the offing.

Mascall Islands.

Mascall Island has some small elevations, and of the two, being the largest, it and Kuttupdeah, are generally known by the name of Mascall Islands.

About 3½ leagues from the north end of Kuttupdeah, and 2½ leagues from Chittagong River, is the entrance of Anghor Colley or Sunkar River, which has shoals barring it, and lining the coast from thence southward; this having a large opening, may at first be mistaken for Chittagong River.

To sail from White cliffs to Chittagong River.

A ship being abreast of the southern part of the White Cliffs, in lat. 21° 10′ N., in 18 fathoms water, and bound to Chittagong, with the wind fair, a north course will carry her clear of all the shoals, passing them in 13 or 14 fathoms, with an offing of 4 to 4½ leagues from the Mascall Islands. When the south end of Kuttupdeah bears E. by N., she will be past the north end of the outermost shoal, and may haul in more toward the shore, keeping an offing of 9 or 10 fathoms, full 2½ leagues from Kuttupdeah. When past this island, she may haul still nearer the shore, and steer along it about a league distant in 6 fathoms, until the mouth of Chittagong River is seen. The distance from Kuttupdeah to the river's mouth, is about 6 leagues, and the course N. ¾ W.; the coast between them is low and flat near the sea, but hilly 2 leagues inland. If the weather is elear, it will not be easy to mistake Anghor Colley entrance for that of Chittagong River, nor to miss the latter, which lies in lat. 22° 13′ N. The chain of hills between Kuttupdeah and the river, situated about 6 miles inland, ends in a point about 3 miles south of the parallel of the river's mouth. To the N.W. 4 or 5 miles from the end of this chain of hills, there are two small detached clusters of hills within 3 miles of the shore, the northernmost of which lies close behind the Bunder, or anchoring place, in the river.

The Fakeer's Tree is thick and bushy, situated 3 miles to the southward of Norman's Point, and 4 miles north of Anghor Colley, and being close to the shore, may be discerned although hazy weather prevail.

In clear weather, the hill called Shakbroage, with two round trees and a flagstaff on it, may be seen when abreast of the Fakeer's Tree, bearing N. ½ E. distant 10 or 11 miles; this hill terminates to the south, a chain of low hills extending parallel to the coast, in which Seetacoon Hill opposite to the Island Sun-Deep, is the highest and most remarkable, having on it a small Pagoda.

The bottom between Kuttupdeah and Chittagong River is stiff and good for anchorage, and a ship bound into the river, wanting a pilot, should anchor abreast of the Fakeer's Tree in 6 fathoms, about 1½ mile from the shore, from whence a gun may be heard at Islamabad; but in strong gales, the sea here runs very short, and often breaks all over a small vessel.

It would be dangerous to enter the river without a pilot, but the following directions may be useful, if obliged to run into it from necessity.

Directions for entering that river.

CHITTAGONG RIVER'S ENTRANCE, is formed on the N.W. side by Petunga Point, and a contiguous sandy islet fronting the sea; and on the East side by Norman's Point, which is low, and projects very little from the coast line. The breadth of the entrance between these points, is about 1¼ mile, but the channel is not more than a small quarter of a mile wide, and formed close to Petunga Point, it being contracted on the eastern side by sands dry at low water, and partly at half ebb, which extend from Norman's Point about a mile to the N.W. and Westward, and nearly 1½ mile to the S.W., where that part of the sand forms the eastern boundary of the Bar, which fronts the mouth of the channel. From the sandy islet that fronts Petunga Point, a sand projects about ½ a mile to the S. Westward, and bounds

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the entrance of the channel and the bar on the west side, the latter having 2 and 2¼ fathoms on it at low water spring tides.

When the river is well open, the best guide to enter it, seems to be, to bring Petunga Point on the N.W. side of the entrance, to bear N.½ E. or N. by E., and with this bearing continued, steer for it, as the channel leads close to that side of the entrance. When within the bar, and near Petunga Point, the channel continues in a N. by E. direction, or a little to the left of the flagstaff on a small hill on the eastern side of the river, and nearly in a direct line with some trees on small risings, to the northward of the flagstaff. Having approached the eastern shore when nearly abreast of the flagstaff, the channel is there close along this shore for about 2 miles, or until you are close to the mouth of the second creek on the eastern side, counting from the flagstaff mount. From the mouth of this creek, the channel takes a West and W. by N. direction to a point on the western shore, and it then continues close along this side of the river to the town of Islamabad, or Chittagong, where you must anchor and moor immediately, the channel being only about a cable's length across. From the anchorage Shakbroage bears North. The soundings in the channel, are usually from 2 or 2¼ fathoms, to 3 and 3½ fathoms at low water spring tides, and in October, the rise of tide is 15 feet at the flagstaff, and 13 feet outside, on the springs; and about 10 feet on the neaps. High water at the flagstaff on full and change of the moon, at 1 hour 30 minutes, and at 1 hour outside the bar, where the flood sets about N. N.W., and the ebb to the S. S. E., with a velocity of 3 to 4 miles an hour, usually, on the springs.

Directions from the River Hoogly to Chittagong.

Mr. P. G. Sinclair, Senior Branch Pilot, at Calcutta, gives the following directions for ships bound to Chittagong. The usual track from the Eastern Channel to Chittagong, is to cross the Patch Sand, and sight the White Cliffs about Coxe's Bazar, keeping to the westward of Red Crab Island, and working up betwixt the two outer sands; which track seems proper in some periods of the S.W. monsoon, when cloudy weather often prevents observations from being obtained. But in the fine weather months of either monsoon, the shortest and best passage, and having more room for working if requisite, will be found to the westward of the Patch Sand; and the best guidance thereto is, by steering E. by N. from the tail of Sagor Sand, until you shoal on the leading sand to Chittagong into 5 fathoms, then steer due East, and you will deepen gradually into 12 fathoms on the western edge of the Patch Sand: if you make the northern part of this sand, you will shoal suddenly into 5 and 3 fathoms, therefore it is advisable for all ships bound to Chittagong, to haul to the northward after getting one cast of 12 fathoms, the worst part of the Patch Sand being its northern end, which is easily discernible in blowing weather, by the agitated water upon it. At the distance of ½ a mile to the northward of it, you may cross to the eastward, carrying 7 and 8 fathoms water; and thus situated, any vessel may steer towards Chittagong River on a northerly course, with safety. There is a pilot constantly in attendance, to carry ships into the river, which has buoys placed on the sands to point out the channel.

In the S.W. monsoon, the bar of the river looks frightful, as the sea breaks over it in most places, and the eastern side of the entrance is bounded by sands which dry at half ebb, or at low water. The best time to enter the river is at high water slack; as the flood sweeps rapidly across the entrance, it is dangerous to attempt going in, while it is making. Next to high water slack, the best time to enter it, is when the ebb has begun to make, but then, there is a risk of being driven on the flat off Norman's Point.

Geo. Site of islamabad.

ISLAMABAD, in lat. 22° 21′ N. lon. 91° 45′ E. from an observation of the transit of Venus over the sun's disc, in 1761, the principal town on the coast of Chittagong, is situated about 2½ leagues up from the entrance of the river; it is a place of some trade, under the Bengal Government, there being a marine yard, where ships of considerable burthen are constructed, and good sail-cloth manufactured. Grain is procured at a very reasonable rate, the adjacent country abounding in rice.

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Bominy Harbour.

BOMINY HARBOUR, in lat. 22° 39′ N. about 12½ leagues to the northward of Chittagong, was formerly a place of shelter for ships, which happened to be driven to the northward of Chittagong River during southerly winds, and the passage towards it, was contiguous to the coast in 6 and 5 fathoms; but the vast quantity of soil carried down the great rivers, is said to have filled up this harbour and the channel leading to it, so that the depths are not more than 2 or 3 fathoms at the present time.

2d, COAST OF ARRACAN, OR ARACAN, FROM THE WHITE CLIFFS TO THE ISLAND CHEDUBA.

Geo. Site of Elephant Point

ELEPHANT POINT, or DOMBUCK POINT, in lat. 21° 10′ N. lon. 92° 2′ E. the southern extremity of the range of white cliffs that fronts the sea on the northern part of the coast of Aracan.

Shapooree Island, and Naaf River.

SHAPOOREE ISLAND, in lat. 20° 45′ N., distant 9½ leagues to the S. S. Eastward of Elephant Point, and fronting the Naaf River, is 2 or 3 miles in extent, surrounded by shoals, which project about 2 miles to the westward, and to nearly 2 leagues distance in a southerly direction; having an intricate channel between them, about 1½ and 2 miles to the southward of the island leading into the river, the entrance to which is bounded on the east side by Cypress Point. Tek-Naaf, is a low point of land, a little to the north of Shapooree Island, and with this island, bounds the river on the western side, which extends in a N. by W. direction nearly parallel to the coast, as far as Elephant Point. Although the Naaf River bas depths of 12 to 8 and 7 fathoms, when inside of the bar and outer shoals; yet, in the opinion of Capt. Crawford, who took the Research and Flotilla into this river in January, 1825, it will always be dangerous for shipping; because, on the flood tide, the surf and swell runs too high in 3 fathoms water for ships to cross the outer bar, which has 3½ fathoms hard bottom on it at high water, and this is the safest time to pass between the outer shoals, into the river.

Geo. Site of St. Martin's Island.

ST. MARTIN'S ISLAND, in lat. 20° 34′ N., lon. 92° 17′ E., distant 10 miles south from Shapooree, and about 6 miles from the nearest shore, is low, and lined by a reef on the west side, which projects also a little way from the south point, but nearly 2 miles from the north extremity of the island in a N. by W. direction, towards the shoals which front the mouth of the river Naaf, and the Island Shapooree. There is an extensive reef with breakers, about mid-way between the main and St. Martin's Island, but near the east side of the latter, there is good anchorage in 6 or 7 fathoms, where the transports anchored in 1825, with springs of fresh water on this side of the island.

St. Martin's Reef.

ST. MARTIN'S REEF, upon which some ships have been lost, is about 2 leagues directly west from St. Martin's Island, having high breakers on it at times, and it is of considerable extent, in a N. by W. and S. by E. direction.

Close to it there are 4 and 5 fathoms, 9 and 10 fathoms at a small distance all round, with from 8 to 9 fathoms hard ground, in a safe channel between it and the island. Ships passing this reef in the night, should not come under 20 fathoms: and it may be observed, that from this part of the coast, soundings extend directly across the Bay, to Point Palmiras.

About 4 leagues to the S. E. of St. Martin's Island, and 5 or 6 miles off shore, there is a small shoal, with 8 and 7 fathoms water betwixt it and the main, and 8 fathoms close to it all around. The coast between the Naaf and Aracan Rivers, is lined by a shoal bank, having 3 or 4 fathoms on the edge of it in some places, at 2 or 3 miles distance off shore.

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Oyster Rock and Reef.

Miou River.

OYSTER ROCK, in lat. 20° 10′ N., about 6½ miles off shore, is very little above water, small, rocky, and dangerous, having a narrow bank or spit, with shoal water on it, extending about 7 miles from the Oyster Rock in a S. Easterly direction, which has been called the Oyster Reef; and there are 10 fathoms water close to them on the outside. Miou River's entrance in lat. 20° 11′ N., distant 11 miles to the eastward of the Oyster Rock, has a shoal bank on each side, with 1½ or 2 fathoms on the bar betwixt the reefs which form it. This river is of considerable size, extending inland to the northward, and it has been sometimes mistaken for Aracan River: there is a passage of 4½, 5, and 6 fathoms betwixt the Oyster Rock Reef and the bank that fronts the mouth of the Miou River.

Geo. Site of Mosque Point.

Aracan River.

MOSQUE POINT, or BHUDDER MOKHAM, in about lat. 20° 7′ N. lon. 93° 5′ E., forming the northern boundary of the entrance of Aracan River, is law, and has some rocks contiguous to it above and under water, called the Fakiers; and the coast between it and Miou River's mouth, which is distant about 5 leagues, is lined by a shoal bank, with breakers in some parts, which should not be approached under 6½ or 7 fathoms. The channel into Aracan River, is betwixt the Fakier's, and the small islets, called Savages, which lie close to the N.W. point of Bolongo, the westernmost of the Broken Islands; and the best track is to keep near to the N. west side of Bolongo, and to the northernmost of the Savages, called Passage Island, which has from 14 to 19 fathoms water almost close to its northern side, with 8 and 9 fathoms near to the Fakier's on the N.W. side of the channel. There are 3½ and 4 fathoms on the bar about 3 miles to the S.W. of Mosque Point, and 2 miles off the shore of Bolongo; and the depths are from 8 to 12 fathoms along the western coast of this island, at 2½ and 3 miles distance. When inside of Passage Island, the fair track up Aracan River, is first N. Easterly, then North and N. by W. as far as Oriatung Pagoda, which is about 6 leagues up the river, and the soundings in this track are usually from 4 to 8 or 9 fathoms.

Broken Islands.

BROKEN ISLANDS, extend nearly North and South, parallel to each other, Bolongo the westernmost about 5 leagues, which has a reef projecting from its south point, and a reef also projects from the south point of the adjacent large island.

Between, these two, Western Islands, there is good, anchorage in 8 or 10 fathoms mud, or in 5 fathoms farther up into the strait, where ships might be sheltered from all winds but those that blow from the south. This strait has been named Research Strait, which has only 2 and 1½ fathoms at the north end, between the N. E. point of Bolongo and a spit projecting from the opposite island, consequently will not admit of ships passing through, into Aracan River. These islands are mountainous, woody, and rugged, without any appearance of inhabitants or cultivation; and the whole of the coast of Aracan, both to the northward and southward of them, has a similar appearance, presenting a most dreary aspect when viewed from sea.

The south ends of the Broken Islands, although bounded by rugged black rocks, with others under water, yet as most of these are visible, and do not extend far out, they are not very dangerous. From the south end of the westernmost, island, a spit of hard ground projects to a considerable distance, having 11 fathoms on its extremity, and on each side 15 fathoms soft mud.

Terribles

Directions.

TERRIBLES, in lat. 19° 24′ to 19° 27′ N., distant from the shore about 4 leagues, are two clusters of rocks about 14 feet above water, and about 3 miles distance from each other, bearing nearly N. N. E. and opposite: from the northernmost cluster, a spit of shoal water is said to project a considerable way to the N.W., with 20 fathoms close to it on each side. The southernmost cluster bears from the south end of the outer Broken Island S. S. E.¼ E.,

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distant about 9 leagues; and from the N.W. point Of Cheduba it its about 15 leagues distance: N. N. W.¼ W., being in a. direct line between them: close to it on the west side, there are 23 fathoms water, and the depths increase regularly to 100 fathoms no ground, about 6½ leagues to the westward. Ships passing along this coast, ought not to approach the Terribles in the night under 28 or 30 fathoms; and in crossing the entrance of Aracan River, they should not borrow toward Oyster Island, or the outermost Broken Island, to less than 20 or 22 fathoms.

There is a passage inside of the Terribles, with 10 to 15 fathoms water between them and the shoals fronting the opposite coast, near to two isles called Saddle Island, and Cap Island, which are situated near the shore, off the N.W. point of Ramree; but this passage is thought to be unsafe, as a rock has lately been discovered in the fairway, with only 2¼ fathoms water on it, over which, the Guide, pilot vessel passed, drawing only one foot less water than the depth on the rock: this passage ought, therefore, not to be used.

3d. DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING TO THE TOWN OF CHEDUBA, AND BETWIXT THAT ISLAND AND THE MAIN.

Cheduba Geo. Site of the Northernmost Rocks.

CHEDUBA, or SHEDDUBA, is a middling high island, of round form, extending North and South about 6 leagues, but from both ends, reefs and islets project several miles to seaward, which ought to be approached with great caution in the night. The outermost rocks projecting from the N.W. end of the island about 3 or 4 miles, are in lat. 18° 58′ N., lon. 93° 18′ E., or 61 miles West from Diamond Island by chronometer, and are part of a reef composed of rocks and sand banks, above and under water, but there is an islet, having on it a single tall tree, that may be seen a considerable distance.

To sail from northward into Cheduba Road.

Anchorage.

Geo. Site of the town pagoda.

Ships coming in to the northward of Cheduba, ought not to approach the reef under 11 or 12 fathoms water, for near it, the bottom is mostly rocky, and the soundings not very regular. Being within the reef, the water shoals very gradually to 7, 6, and 5½ fathoms, and the course should not be more to the southward than E. by S. until well over to the eastern shore, for the soundings there, are more regular and the water deeper than on the Cheduba side, which is very flat and shoal to a considerable distance. By steering along the eastern or Ramree side at 2 to 1½ miles distance, there will seldom be less than 5 fathoms, and when to the southward of Rocky Point Bay, having brought a remarkable hummock or conical mount to bear E. by N. or more northerly, the water will deepen to 6 or 7 fathoms. Between the Ramree shore and Cheduba, about 4½ miles to the north of the anchorage, there is a very dangerous patch of rocks nearly in mid-channel, with 6 fathoms close to, and having only 10 or 11 feet water upon it, with 7 or 8 fathoms to the westward, and 5 or 6 to the eastward. The account of this danger has been transmitted by Capt. Ross, Marine Surveyor to the Company, which was not previously known, and must be avoided with great care, as it lies in the fair channel, bearing about E. ½ N. from the north point of Cheduba, and north a little westerly from the N. E. point of that island, opposite to a point on the Ramree shore, and distant from that shore about 2 miles. A ship should keep nearer to Ramree than mid-channel, when the north point of Cheduba bears W. by S.; a moderately high and round island will then be seen bearing S. by E.½ E., and by steering for it, when past the mid-channel rock mentioned above, she will shoal gradually over to the west, toward the town of Cheduba, where she may anchor in 4½ or 5 fathoms, with Round Island bearing S. 17° E., and the town Pagoda W. ¾ S. This Pagoda has on its top, a brazen image of a large bird, resembling a goose, and is situated in lat. 18° 49′ N., lon. 93° 34′ E., or 45 miles west from Diamond Island by chronometer. Capt. Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, lately made the anchorage 1° 59′ East from Chittagong by good chronometers, which would place the Pagoda in lon. 93° 40′ E. Captain P. Heywood anchored at the town of Cheduba in

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H. M. S. Trincomale, December, 11th, 1801, in 4½ fathoms, with the Pagoda W. 19° S., Rajah's House W. 4° S., the N. E. point of Cheduba N. 59° W., mouth of the river W. 15° S., East point of Cheduba S. 8° W., centre of Low Island S. 7° E., centre of Round Island S. 18° E., the S.W. extreme of the Easternmost Island S. 47° E., Southernmost Island on that side S. 63° E., South point of Ramree East, North extreme N. 35° W. In the road, the tide rises from 6 to 10 feet; high water about 11½ hours at full and change of the moon.

Description.

Ships may fill water at half ebb in their own boats, but it will be procured more expeditiously by the country boats. The landing place is near a small wooden bridge, at a wharf about 2 miles up the river on the starboard side, where there is a bazar well supplied with poultry, hogs, goats, fruits, and vegetables in abundance, at reasonable prices, and of excellent quality. From the entrance of the river, mud flats stretch 1½ mile out, making the approach difficult to a stranger; but inside, although narrow and winding, there is water sufficient for large boats at all times of tide.

Rawer Island and Harbour.

RAMREE, RAMRIE, or YAMBIE MEW, forming the N. E. side of Cheduba Strait, extends to the N. Westward to Saddle and Cap Isles, where an inlet or river, stretches inland to the eastward, and uniting with another branch that proceeds from Ramree Harbour, separates Ramree from the other land, giving it the character of an island, which is of moderate height near the sea. The south point of Ramree lies directly east from Cheduba anchorage, betwixt which point and the nearest island, there is a passage with from 3 to 7 and 10 fathoms, leading into the large space called Ramree Harbour; and another passage leading into it, is from the southward, along the eastern side of the chain of islands that projects from the south point of Ramree in a S. by E. direction: the largest, and nearest to the point is named Lord Amherst's Island, the next Adam's Island, the third Still's Island, and the two southernmost, Wyndham's and Harrison's Islands, which are small. These islands are lined by rocks and shoal water, and an extensive shoal projects from the eastern shore nearly over to the islands, which greatly contracts the channel, and the depths in it are generally irregular, from 7 to 4 or 3½ fathoms. When inside of Ramree Point, the depths increase, but there are several shoals, with good passages between them, in this wide inlet, which is about 3½ and 4 miles in breadth, extending about 5 leagues in a northerly direction, where it branches into several rivers, one leading to Aracan, and that on the western side forms Hasting's or Amherst Harbour, which has depths of 3½ to 4 fathoms water, and is very safe.

Winds in N. E. monsoon.

Geo. Site of Tree Island.

Although a brisk southerly wind with a northerly current, is sometimes experienced on the coasts of Aracan and Ave in the N. E. monsoon, the prevailing winds are from W. N.W. and N.W. in the day, and from northward in the night, seldom veering to N. E. It may, therefore, be preferable for a ship leaving Cheduba Road or Ramree Harbour, to proceed to sea by the southern channel when the northerly winds prevail, and not lose time beating to the northward round the reef off the north end of Cheduba. The passage best known, is between Round Island. and Flat, or False Island, to the westward, and Lord Amherst's or Ramree Chain to the eastward, afterward to the south of Tree Island, which is situated in lat. 18° 26′ N., lon. 93° 47′ E., about 5 leagues S. E. by S. from the South end of Cheduba, being the southernmost of a detached chain of islands and banks that stretch from the latter. Tree Island* is of circular form, about 1 or 1½ mile in diameter, with a small hill near the middle of it covered with trees; one of these is conspicuous, being higher than the others. From the east side of the island a spit projects, but it is steep to, on the other sides; on the bank a little to the northward of it, there are 6 and 7 fathoms rocky bottom, and to the eastward of it in the channel, from 12 to 16 fathoms.

* It is sometimes called Foul Island, and by Captain Ritchie, Christmas Island; there are on it two pools of fresh water. The name given to this island by the natives of the coast, is said to be Negamalé.

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To sail from Cheduba Road to the Southward in that season; islands and dangers.

Between Tree Island and the others off the S. E. end of Cheduba, there was thought formerly to be no safe passage over the coral bank, but H. M. sloop, Trincomale, with the Sybille frigate in company, left Cheduba Road, December 15th, 1801, and proceeded to sea between Round Island and the islands to the eastward, leaving Flat Island and the contiguous rocks near Cheduba to the northward, and Low Island and Tree Island, with the rocks and breakers near them, to the southward. After weighing from Cheduba Road, these ships steered to give a good birth td the sand projecting from Round Island to the northward, and had regular soundings mostly from 5 to 6½ fathoms in passing between the Ramree Chain and Round Island, until betwixt the latter and Low Island, the bottom became uneven and composed of coarse sand and coral; there was, however, never less than 5 fathoms in passing between it and the rocks that lie off the south point of Flat Island, which ought to be borrowed upon pretty close in coming out by this channel, after passing Round Island.

Passing out between the islands in 7½ fathoms, observed at noon in lat. 18° 34′ N. Tree Island bearing S. 28° E., outermost rock off Low Island S. 35° E., about 3 miles; centre of Low Island N. 55° E., South point of Flat Island W. 3° S., distance 2½ miles, N. E. point of the same N. 25° W., West point of Round Island N. 10° W., East point of the same N. 6° W., and the South point of Ramree N. 26° E. When the breakers were distant 5 miles, on with Tree Island, bearing S. 52° E., had 16 fathoms, and deepened to 25 fathoms, when the West point of Cheduba bore N. 34° W., Pyramid N. 23½° W., Round Island N. 15° E., and Tree Island S. 67° E.

Nearly midway, in a direct line between Tree Island and Foul Island, which is about 7 leagues to the S. S. E. there is a rocky bank of coral, with 6 or 7 fathoms, or probably less water on it in some parts, from which Foul Island bears S. S. E. about 4 leagues. On either side of this bank, between it and the island last mentioned, or between it and Tree Island, there appear to be safe channels leading from the south entrance of Cheduba Strait to seaward. In the northernmost channel, the least water found has been 12 fathoms, with Tree Island bearing N. N.W. ¾ W. distant 7 or 8 miles.

Sandoway Road and Town.

SANDOWAY ROAD, in lat. 18° 35′ N. formed inside of reefs at the mouth of the river of this name, has anchorage 4 and 5 fathoms; and Sandoway Town, which lies about 8 miles up the river in a S. E. direction, is a place of some consequence; but the channels between the reefs leading to the road, seem intricate to strangers, although there is one from the southward, and another from the northward. About 2 leagues north from Sandoway Road, there is a Town and Pagoda near the shore, opposite to which, lie the Ospray and Gungasaer Reefs, from 2 to 3½ miles off shore, having soundings of 4 to 7 fathoms between them, and near the coast from thence to Sandoway Road.

4th. COAST OF AVA TO CAPE NEGRAIS, AND THE ISLANDS ADJACENT.

Coast of Ava.

ON the main-land to the S. Eastward of Ramree, a triple ridge of regular sloping mountains divides the coasts of Aracan and Ava; the latter coast extends in a southerly direction from thence to Cape Negrais, forming several bays destitute of shelter for ships, and having some groups of islets or dangers in its vicinity.

Foul Island and coast between it and Cheduba Strait.

FOUL ISLAND, in about lat. 18° 7′ N., bears from Tree Island, on the extremity of Cheduba Reef, nearly S. S. E. ¾ E. distant 7 leagues, and from the continent abreast about 4 or 5 leagues, bearing W. by N. ¼ N. from a bluff point, having a bay on its north side, at the bottom of which there appears the entrance of a river. Foul Island may be seen 8 leagues distant, and is 3 or 4 miles long, of conical form, with a gradual declivity from the centre toward the sea, the north end terminating in a low point, with a remarkable tree on

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it, and the whole of the island is covered with trees. To the N. Eastward of Foul Island, there are other islands near the shore, with a reef of rocks partly above water, stretching southward from the outer or southernmost island about 1 or 1½ mile. Abreast of this reef, the depth at 2 miles distance is 20 fathoms; when to the northward of it, the shore may be approached to 16 fathoms, in coming from the south along the coast toward Cheduba Strait. The soundings between Foul Island and the main, are generally from 20 to 30 fathoms; within 3 miles of the point that bears E. by S. ¼ S. from it there are 21 fathoms, the bottom mostly mud, although in some parts it is hard sand, about 3 leagues off shore.* About 3 and 4 leagues south from Foul Island, the depths are from 38 to 46 fathoms, and to the westward of it, at a few miles distance, they soon increase to 55 and 60 fathoms, and a little farther out there is no ground. Ships passing outside of this island in the night, should not come under 36 or 40 fathoms; nor under the same depths in passing outside of Cheduba, and the bank and islands projecting from it to the southward; for about 4 or 5 leagues to the westward of that island, the bank has a sudden declivity from 60 or 70 fathoms, to no ground.

Geo. Site of Church Rocks,

Coast betwixt them and Foul Island.

CHURCH ROCKS, (called by Captain Ritchie, St. John's Rocks) in about lat. 17° 28′ N., lon. 94° 7′ E., bear from Foul Island nearly S. by E. ¼ E., distant 13½ leagues, and from the shore about 4 leagues; they are four in number, one of them large and high, the other three small, and lie near each other; when they bear about S.W., the large one resembles a country church with a square tower on its west end, from which they have been named. Very near these rocks on the inside, the depths are 36 and 37 fathoms soft ground, decreasing regularly toward the shore, which seems safe to approach, but near it there are several rocks and islets. The coast between Foul Island and Church Rocks, may, in some places, be borrowed on to 15 or 16 fathoms in working, which will be about 2 miles off shore; the depths from 2 to 4 leagues off are 26 to 40 fathoms, increasing fast to the westward of Church Rocks to no ground; therefore, a ship passing outside of them in the night, should keep in deep water, not under 50 or 60 fathoms.

Calventura Rocks,

CALVENTURA† ROCKS, bear from Church Rocks nearly S. or S. ¼ E. distant about 11 or 12 leagues; they form two divisions, bearing from each other N.W. by W. and opposite, distant 5 or 6 miles, the body of them being in about lat. 16° 52′ N. The N. Westernmost division is a group of seven black rocks, of different magnitudes and forms; one of them resembles an old church with a mutilated spire, another is much larger at the top than it is near the small base on which it stands. The S. Easternmost division consists of two high rocky islands, covered with trees and bushes; they are connected by a reef of rocks under water, having upon it a single rock above water, about half way between the islands. Between the Calventura Rocks and a sandy point on the main, there is a safe channel about 4 or 5 miles wide, said to have 20 and 22 fathoms soft ground in mid-channel, with 15 to 18 fathoms hard sand toward the rocks or the shore; about ¼ mile inside of the easternmost rock, there are 8 fathoms water.

Coast described.

Directions.

In passing along the coast from the Church Rocks to the southward, a ship may keep between 35 and 23 fathoms, and in the latter depth she will be about 4 miles off shore. From the sandy point abreast of the Calventuras, a rocky bank extends to the northward about a mile, and about ½ a mile distant from the shore, having within it the appearance of a river. And from the sandy point about 4 miles to the northward, and 1 mile off shore, there is a sandy island with trees on it, and a remarkable rock on the beach to the southward. A ship

* The Generous Friends, November 3d, 1803, shoaled suddenly from 14 to 7 fathoms water on a hard coral bank, Foul Island bearing S. S. E., and Tree Island N.W. ¼ N.

† Called Buffalo Rocks by Captain Ritchie, and the latter by him are called Calventura Rocks.

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passing betwixt the Calventuras and the main, should not in turning, borrow nearer to Sandy Island and Sandy Point than 13 fathoms, which is 2 or 2½ miles from the shore; and when the southernmost of the Calventuras bears nearly west, the main should not be approached under 16 fathoms, on account of a white rock, distant about a mile from the shore, with rocky bottom all round, and projecting from it about a mile to the westward, on the edge of which the water shoals from 15 soft, to 8 fathoms hard at a cast.

Ships which pass outside of the Calventura Rocks, ought to keep on the edge of soundings, and with great caution, not come under 50 or 60 fathoms in the night, which will be but a small distance from the outermost rocks, there being 44 and 46 fathoms, when they bear East about 1½ mile.

Geo. Site of the Buffalo's

Coast adjacent.

BUFFALO ROCKS, in lat. 16° 20′ to 16° 23′ N., about lon. 94° 12′ E., bear nearly S. ½ E. from the outermost Calventura Rocks, distant 10 or 11 leagues; they are a group of high rugged rocks, extending North and South, situated about 3 miles from the shore, and bearing North a little westerly from the western extremity of Cape Negrais. The coast between the Calventura and Buffalo Rocks, forms several bays, with islands fronting them and the shore; nearly midway, a reef projects from a small island about 1½ mile to the S. Westward, and a little farther northward there is a high rock, distant about a mile from the shore, to the northward of which, the coast may be approached to 16 fathoms; but from thence to the Buffalo Rocks, it should not be borrowed upon under 24 fathoms, particularly in passing the reef and small island.

On the West side of the Buffalo Rocks the soundings are regular, 20 fathoms about a mile from them, and 50 or 60 fathoms at 5 leagues distance; but they should not, without great caution, be approached in the night.

Geo. Site of Cape Negrais,

Pagoda Point.

CAPE NEGRAIS, in lat. 16° 2′ N., lon. 94° 13′ E., by chronometers and lunar observations, is the southwesternmost land of the coast of Ava, but the southernmost extremity of that coast is generally called PAGODA POINT, from a pagoda standing upon it, in lat. 15° 58′ N., bearing nearly S. E. from the former, distant 5 or 6 miles. Very near the point there is a large rock, and red cliffs stretch from it toward Cape Negrais, which are fronted by a reef, extending a considerable way out; this reef terminates at the North end of the red cliffs, and should not be approached under 8 or 9 fathoms in a large ship. To the northward of the red cliffs, the shore is more bold, there being from 11 to 12 fathoms soft ground within 2 or 3 miles of the Cape.

Ava River, Negrais Island, harbour, and contiguous coast.

AVA RIVER, called also Persaim and Basseen River, formed between Pagoda Point to the westward and Point Porian to the eastward, is navigable a great way inland: there are two channels that lead into it, one on each side of Negrais Island, and the western channel forms a good harbour betwixt that island and the West side of the river. The eastern channel is not so safe, for an extensive reef projects from the land about Point Porian to Diamond Island, and another reef projects from Negrais Island a great way to the S. West, nearly joining to the extremity of the former reef, and to Diamond Island. This river has generally been a place of resort for trading vessels from Coringa and other parts of the Coromandel Coast; when Capt. Pope was here in 1788, there were five ships under English colours in the river. He came from Rangoon River, in a boat to Ava River, by an inland navigation like the Sunderbunds in Bengal.

General Remark,

Negrais Island, situated in the entrance of the river about 4 or 5 miles inside of Pagoda Point, and nearest to the western shore, is conspicuous by a hill on it, which is the easternmost high land on the coast; Point Porian on the East side the river, being the first low land, and is covered with trees. The whole of the coast of Ava, from the extremity of the Aracan Mountains near Cheduba to Cape Negrais, is a continued ridge of scraggy land,

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tolerably high, broken into cliffs of reddish earth in many places, and generally with low trees or brush-wood upon it, without any signs of cultivation or inhabitants toward the sea.

To sail into trance of Ava River.

A ship intending to anchor under Pagoda Point, should bring it to bear N. E. ½ N. or N. E. by N., then steer for it; some hard casts of 6, or perhaps 5 fathoms, may be got on the tail of the sand that extends from Negrais Island, and when the Point bears from N. to N. W. about 1½ mile, she may anchor in 6 or 6½ fathoms mud. A ship going in for the harbour or channel between the island and western shore, should round Pagoda Point at the distance of ½ a mile in 6 or 6½ fathoms, but a little inside of the Point, the channel becomes more contracted.

Geo. Site of Diamond Island.

DIAMOND ISLAND, in lat. 15° 52′ N., lon. 94° 19′ E., by chronometers from Madras, and lunar observations, bears South a little easterly from Pagoda Point, distant 6 or 7 miles, and fronting the entrance of Ava River; it is low, covered with trees, about 1½ mile in extent, and may be seen about 5 leagues; but it should not be approached in a large vessel, on account of the reefs that surround it.*

Sunken Island.

SUNKEN ISLAND, or Drowned Island, called also La Guarda, bears from Diamond Island S. S.W. about 3½ leagues, the southern extremity of it being in lat. 15° 41′ N.; it is a very dangerous reef of rocks, level with the surface of the sea, extending N. E. and S.W. 1 mile or more, and it is very narrow; but there are detached rocks at a considerable distance from it, on some of which the sea breaks in bad weather.

Passage between it and Diamond Island.

The passage between Diamond Island and Sunken Island is certainly very dangerous, and ought not to be adopted in any ship, except in a case of very great necessity. Some ships have passed through it in former times, but the exact limits of the reefs on each side, and the true situations of several other detached sunken rocks, are very imperfectly known; consequently, this channel is very unsafe. Several ships have struck upon the sunken rocks between Diamond and Sunken Islands; one of these was H. M. S. Exeter, in November, 1748; and the Company's ship Travers, bound to Bengal, was totally lost, at 5 A. M. November 7th, 1808, on a rock bearing N. E. by N. from Sunken Island, distant about 1¼ mile; probably the same on which the Exeter struck. Ships which have passed between Diamond and Sunken Islands, have generally endeavoured to keep in 9 or 10 fathoms water, about 3 or 4 miles from the former, as a reef projects from it more than 2 miles to the S. and S. Westward; but the greatest dangers are probably near mid-way between the islands, for a sunken rock is thought to lie about 3 or 4 miles nearly S. by E. from Diamond Island, another about the same distance S. S. W. from it, in a direct line toward Sunken Island, and another to the S. Westward of it, about 2 leagues distance. It was probably on the latter, that H. M. S. Phæton struck, February 16th, 1810; which obliged her to go to Bengal to repair; and Capt. Pellew of the Phæton, thinks it is 6 or 7 miles to the S. Westward of Diamond Island, with 9 fathoms close to, 9 feet water upon it, and is of small extent.

Tides in this passage strong.

Channel outside of Sunken 1.

EXCLUSIVE OF THESE DANGERS, the bottom is chiefly uneven and rocky betwixt Diamond Island and Sunken Island, with a heavy, turbulent swell, occasioned by the sea beating upon the reefs, and the strong tides, which here set, the flood to the E. S. E. and the ebb to the W. N.W. The rise of tide is about 9 or 10 feet on the springs, high water about 11½ hours on full and change of the moon. From the heavy confused swell that generally prevails in this dangerous channel, even during calm weather, it is often called the

* At some seasons it is much frequented by turtle, but it is considered unhealthy and dangerous for people to sleep on shore, for H, M. S. Sybille lost several of her men who remained on shore during the night; those who were on the island in the day time, and returned on board in the evening, escaped the fever that speedily terminated the lives of the former.

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Race of Negrais, and certainly should be avoided by ships; for by rounding the South end of Sunken Island, they are but a few miles farther out, in a safe and spacious channel about 17 leagues wide, between it and the Island Preparis.

Marks to know when near that Island.

When the sea is smooth in the N. E. monsoon, the breakers on Sunken Island are not high, but when the weather is clear, the approach to it may always be known by the bearings of the land; for when the west end of Diamond Island is coming into contact with the east end of the hill on Negrais Island, Sunken Island is then in the same direction bearing N. N. E., and the western extreme of Cape Negrais will bear nearly North. At 4 or 5 miles distance from Sunken Island, both to the eastward and westward, the depths are generally from 15 to 17 or 18 fathoms blue mud, and to the southward of it, at the same distance, 19 and 20 fathoms. It is prudent not to approach Sunken Island nearer than 2 leagues on the East side, nor under 3 leagues on the N.W. side, on account of the rock situated to the S. Westward of Diamond Island, mentioned above. About 4 or 5 leagues to the westward, the bank shelves suddenly to no ground, but soundings extend from Sunken Island to Preparis, and the depths increase to 40 and 50 fathoms in the track between then; near to Preparis Island they are irregular in some places, but on the east side of the island, decrease to 8 fathoms within less than a mile of the shore, where there is a pool of fresh water.

Ships bound to Bengal Should not keep close to the coast of Ava, &c.

SHIPS BOUND TO BENGAL IN THE N. E. MONSOON, should not keep within sight of the coasts of Ave and Aracan, which was formerly considered indispensible to secure the passage; but experience shews, that northerly or light winds prevail greatly on these coasts, and the current sets often to the southward, rendering the progress at times very slow; it therefore, happens, that coppered ships which keep out in the open sea, at a reasonable distance from the land, generally make the best passages up the bay in this monsoon. Ships which sail indifferently, or being short of water, if they intend to adopt the passage along the coasts of Ava and Aracan, ought to keep well in with the shore where it is safe to approach, that they may benefit by the breezes from the land, when these are found to prevail; and also to preserve moderate depths for anchoring, when it falls calm, with the current unfavorable.

Severe storms are liable to happen at the setting in of the N. E. monsoon, and at times in the S.W. monsoon. November 12th, 1797, the Company's ship, Minerva, had a hurricane from the eastward, off Cheduba, which blew away all her sails, broke the topmasts, washed an anchor and some casks from her gunwalls and waist, and obliged them to cut away some of the boats, Many other ships have been dismasted, or suffered damage, in October or November, near the coasts of Aracan or Ava.

COAST of PEGU; DIRECTIONS for SAILING to, and from RANGOON RIVER.

Coast of Pegu, dangerous in the S. W. monsoon.

COAST OF PEGU, extends from Ava River to the Gulf of Martaban, and is generally low and woody, intersected by many rivers, with reefs and shoal water extending along it to a considerable distance; it is therefore, a dangerous coast in the S.W. W. monsoon, for the tides set strong, and a ship might run aground in some places before the land could be perceived.

Description.

From the entrance of Ava River, the direction of the coast is to S. Eastward 6 or 7 leagues, which part is generally considered as Porian Island, and the whole of it is fronted by Porian Reef, projecting 2 or 2½ leagues from the shore in some places, with hard ground

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close to it, 6 or 6½ fathoms. When 22 miles east from Diamond Island by chronometer in lat. 15° 40′ N., a ship will have 6½ fathoms on the edge of the reef, a low point then bearing N. 37° E., distant 8 or 9 miles. From hence, the coast stretches E. by S. and East 12 or 14 leagues to Baragu River, but the reef takes a more southerly direction in some places, where it projects 3½ and 4 leagues from the shore; about 14 leagues eastward from Diamond Island, and from thence to about 25 leagues east from the same island, the reef extends farther to the southward than at any other part of the coast, the lat. of its southern verge being here, about 15° 35′ N., where it extends from the land 4 and 5 leagues abreast of Baragu and Dalla Rivers. It is dangerous and steep to, and from 7 to 3 fathoms the distance is not more than ½ a mile, perhaps much less in some places.

Coast from Dalla River

FROM DALLA RIVER, the coast changes its direction, and stretches nearly N. E. to the entrance of Rangoon River about 20 or 22 leagues, having reefs and shoal banks as before, projecting out from it 3 or 4 leagues, which should not be approached under 5 or 6 fathoms. The whole of this space is low land, intersected by many rivers and creeks, which form numerous islands; the best guide in approaching it is the soundings, for near the verge of the reef abreast of Baragu Point and farther westward, the bottom is generally sand and shells, or hard and stony; between Dalla River and Rangoon Bar, it is mostly soft ouze; and to the eastward of the bar, it is generally stiff mud.

Exclusive of the quality of soundings, in clear weather the following land marks may be seen, which will point out the entrance of Rangoon River. The first that will be discerned in coming from the S.W., is a grove of trees about 5 or 6 leagues to the S. Westward of Rangoon River, called China Buckeer, which in some views resembles a quoin, but it is not seen until a ship get into 6 fathoms water; in approaching it from sea, bearing about North, it will be seen from the mast-head appearing like a small island, and the lat. will then be about 16° 10′ N. China Buckeer, is the mark that ships bound for Rangoon River first endeavour to see, to prevent being carried past their port to the N. Eastward by the flood tide.

Rangoon River.

Geo. Site of the Elephant.

RANGOON RIVER, is called also Sirian, and Pegu River; on the bar there are 3½ and 4 fathoms, and some parts dry at low water spring tides, are visible on the steep banks on both sides of the charnel.* This river may he easily known by the clump of cocoa-nut trees called the Elephant, or Western Grove, situated on the point of land that bounds the west side of the entrance, which, with a little help of the imagination, does somewhat resemble that animal. A little way from it there are three palmira trees on a small rising ground, and a few more between them and the point. The Elephant, by Captain Heywood's observations, is in lat. 16° 29′ N., lon. 96° 25′ E., or 2° 6′ E. from Diamond Island, by chronometer. Capt. Ross, in his late survey, made the Elephant Pagoda in lat. 16° 28′ N., lon. 96° 23¾′ E. On the east side of the entrance the trees grow thicker together, and are called sometimes the Eastern Grove; here, they are more even at top, and not so high as those on the west side, and what is very remarkable, on the N. E. side of the river, there is not one palmira tree between the N. E. point and a small mount or hillock in shore, which shews itself above the trees; although from that mount to the eastward, there are many growing at some distance from each other, all nearly double the height of the other trees which surround them.

Tides.

TIDES ON THE COAST OF PEGU, generally run very strong, the flood sets East and E. by N., and the ebb in the contrary direction, to the westward of Baragu Point; but from that point to Rangoon Bar, the flood sets N. E. and N. E. by N., and the ebb to the S.W.; farther East, between Rangoon River and the coast of Martaban, the flood runs

*The ship Janet Hutton, was wrecked in 1825, on the edge of the sands, on the western side of the channel with the Elephant Pagoda bearing about N. ½ W., distant 5¼ miles.

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N. N. E. and N. by E., strong into the bottom of the gulf, and the ebb equally strong out of it, in the opposite direction. When the rivers are swelled, and the low country inundated by the rains at the end of the S.W. monsoon, the ebb tides are much stronger and run longer than the flood tides, occasioned by freshes from the rivers; the water then, is very thick and muddy at a considerable distance from the land, which is more or less the case on this coast at all times, opposite to the numerous rivers that disembogue into the sea.

Abreast of Baragu Point, and farther westward, the velocity of the tides is not near so great as off Rangoon River and in the bottom of the gulf; for here, it is frequently in the springs 4 and 5 miles an hour, and sometimes more, near the edges of the shoal banks. After the rains, the tides off Rangoon River are subject to a circular motion, the first of the flood sets East, changing gradually to N. E. about ½ flood, and to North in the latter part. The ebb sets just the reverse, beginning to run West, it changes gradually to S.W. and South, ending at S. E., but there is no slack water at these times, the tides continuing to run 1½ or 2 knots when changing from the flood to the ebb, and the same at the opposite change.

On the west part of the coast, off Porian Reef, the perpendicular rise and fall of the tide is only 9 or 10 feet on the springs, but off Rangoon Bar it is frequently 20 or 21 feet, arid from 21 to 24 feet farther to the eastward in the bottom of the gulf, near the banks at the entrance of Sittang River; it is therefore, proper, to be careful in making free with this part of the coast, and to acquire a knowledge of the tides in order to prevent any mistake, by anchoring near high water in a situation where a ship would be aground at low water.* It is high water at the Elephant Point, and on Rangoon Bar, about 3¼ hours at full and change of the moon.

Directions to sail from west ward to Rangoon Bar in the N. F., monsoon.

SHIPS BOUND TO RANGOON from Bengal in the N. E. monsoon, should make Cape Negrais, and pass round to the southward of Sunken Island; those which come from Madras or other parts of the Coromandel coast in the same season, after beating across the bay, may pass through the channel between it and Preparis, or between the latter and Coco's Islands, as may be most convenient. In this season, from October to February, it is prudent after passing Sunken Island, to steer to the eastward for Baragu Point, endeavouring to keep well in with the coast, for at times there is very little flood, the freshes from the rivers frequently producing a constant current setting to S.W., and round to N.W.

Should a ship fall in with the land to the westward of Baragu Point, the water will shoal quickly from 20 to 16 and 10 fathoms toward the edge of the reef; and in a large ship, it would be imprudent to borrow under 9 or 10 fathoms, for in some places the edge of the reef takes a S. Easterly direction, and is steep from 6 to 3 or 3½ fathoms, when the low land is hardly discernible.

Soundings extend a great way out from this coast, there being 43 and 44 fathoms about 24 leagues South from Baragu Point, in lat. 14° 30′ N.; and from thence, soundings continue on the same parallel to the coast of Martaban.

If not affected by lateral tides, the depth will decrease in steering east, when a ship is to the westward of Baragu Point; steering the same course, it will decrease when she is to the eastward of that point, and she may then steer to the N. Eastward if the wind admit, borrowing to 7 or 8 fathoms toward the edges of the banks that line the coast. Should the wind be far eastward, rendering it necessary to tack at times, the coast may be approached to 6½ and 7 fathoms, or nearer occasionally, when to the eastward of Baragu Point and Dalla

* Captain P. Heywood, in H. M. sloop Trincomale, November 19th, 1801, anchored in 5¾ fathoms at high water, and had only 13 feet at low water, with the Elephant trees bearing N. 36° W. about 5 leagues—westernmost extreme of the land N. 78° W.—A remarkable mount on the East side of Rangoon River N. 22½° W.—N. E. extreme N. 49° E.—Martaban Hills E. N. E. This was the day preceding full moon, and the water seems to have been very shoal at 5 leagues distance from the land, but the place where this ship anchored with these bearings, was probably to the eastward of the fair channel leading to the river.

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River; the soundings over a soft bottom being then more regular, and the banks not so steep as they are to the westward. On approaching Rangoon River, a ship should haul in to get a sight of the land, and make it in about lat. 16° 10′ N.; China Buckeer may then be seen appearing like a low island, if the depth is not above 6 fathoms, and will probably bear N. by W. ½ W., or N. N. W., but it cannot be discerned when the depth of water is mote than 5¾ or 6 fathoms. After passing China Buckeer, the coast may be approached occasionally, in a small ship, to 3¾ or 4 fathoms at low water, or to 6 fathoms at high water; the Elephant will soon be perceived, and when it bears N. by W., the Eastern Grove on the opposite side of the river may be seen bearing to the eastward of North; it will then be proper to anchor, and make the signal for a pilot, or dispatch a boat with an officer into the river for one, if the weather is favorable.

Should the land not be seen when a ship gets into shoal water, the bottom be stiff mud, and the tides found to set N. N. E. or N. by E. and opposite: she will, in such case, be to the eastward of the bar, and must haul to the westward with the ebb until the bottom is soft, and the tides be found to set more to the N. E. and S. Westward; she ought then to steer in for the land, and endeavour to get sight of the Elephant and Eastern Grove, where she may anchor off the bar, and wait for a pilot.

Or from the southward.

To proceed over the bar into the river.

Ships bound to Rangoon, from Malacca Strait, Achen, or the Nicobar Islands, in the N. E. monsoon, should endeavour to pass in sight of the westernmost islands of the Mergui Archipelago, and from thence to the northward in a direct line for the entrance of Rangoon River. Should circumstances render it necessary at a ship's arrival there, to venture over the bar without a pilot, the best track is to bring the two points that form the entrance of the river, a little open, and steer in with them open about a ship's length, observing to keep, if possible, nearly in mid-channel. In proceeding to cross the bar, it ought not to be attempted before half flood, for the first of the flood sets strong to the eastward upon the Middle Ground Shoal, situated on the east side of the channel, which close to, has deep water and irregular soundings. If Ental Point, on the east side of the river, open fast with the western point of the same, a ship ought to anchor until the tide set fair into the river, which is after half flood, and that is the most favorable time to cross the bar. Coming from the S.W., when the Elephant is brought to bear N. by W., a ship ought to haul up for the channel, the Pagoda at the Elephant bearing N. by W. ½ W. to N. N.W., being a fair bearing until within 2 or 3 miles of the bar; and it may be observed, that if Ental Point is kept open with the western point of the river's entrance, she will not ground on the west side of the channel, until the shoal spit fronting the middle ground is approached, which extends from the Elephant Point 3 miles, the tail of it bearing S. E. from the Elephant Pagoda, having only 1½ fathoms on it at low water, and the channel between it and the middle ground is rather less than a mile wide.*

When within the bar, and having brought the Elephant or Western Grove to bear about south, the western shore should be borrowed on close, the channel on that side being free from danger, nearly to the distance of 3 leagues up the river.

Although the pilots have sometimes got ships upon the Middle Ground, yet, if unacquainted, it would be imprudent to attempt to cross over the bar without one, particularly in a vessel of considerable burthen, unless in a case of necessity. When Capt. Ross surveyed the river, he placed Red Buoys on the tails of the sands which lie on the west side of the channel, and Black Buoys on those which lie on the eastern side.

The town.

Refreshments.

RANGOON TOWN, is situated on the north shore of a considerable branch of the principal river, that extends to the westward, about a league, and then takes a northerly di-

* An excellent survey of Rangoon River, from below the bar to the Kemmendine or Dagon Pagoda, having been made by Capt. Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, in 1825, and now engraved at the expence of the Company for the benefit of navigation, every ship bound to Rangoon, ought to procure a copy of that survey at Messrs. Kingsbury and Co., Leadenhall Street.

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rection as before: the town is about 8 leagues to the northward of the bar, and it is a place of considerable trade. The country abounds with straight teak timber*, some of which is exported to Calcutta and other parts of India for ship building, and there are many ships of various dimensions built at Rangoon, although the crooked timber here is not very durable, and far inferior to that used on the Malabar coast for ship building. Rice, poultry, hogs, fruits, and vegetables, and other articles of refreshment, may be procured in abundance, and at reasonable prices. Wood oil, earth oil, wax, dammer, and other articles are exported from hence.

Geo. Site of the great pagoda.

Dagon Pagoda, is about 1¾ mile to the N. N. W. of Rangoon Town, elevated 487 feet above high water level, by the observations of Capt. Ross, who places it in lat. 16° 47′ N. lon. 96° 13′ E. by mean of chronometers from Fort William and Chittagong, corroborated by lunar observations.

At Rangoon it is high water at 5 hours 30 minutes, on full and change of the moon, rise of the tide on these days, and for two days afterward, from 20 to 21 feet, and 13 or 14 feet on the neaps. Variation 2° 48′ Easterly, by Theodolite in 1825.

To sail from the westward to Rangoon Bar in the S. W. monsoon.

If bound to Rangoon from Bengal in the S.W. monsoon, a ship should endeavour to make the Island Preparis, or rather the Cocos Islands if the wind permit; and after passing through either channel as most eligible, a course ought to be steered to fall in with the coast of Pegu about China Buckeer, or little to westward of Rangoon Bar. A ship from Madras or any other part of the Coromandel Coast in the same season, ought to make Landfall Island at the North end of the Great Andaman, if the wind be far southerly, or the Cocos Islands if it is at westward, then pass through the channel between them. From the Cocos Channel, she may steer about East to get a sight of Narcondam if the weather be clear, and then to the N. Eastward, for the land on the West side of Rangoon Bar. If by accident she should get to the eastward of the bar a few leagues, Martaban Hills will be seen if the weather is clear; and in such case, she must work to the westward with the ebb tide.

And from the southward in the same season.

Ships bound to Rangoon, from the Nicobars, Achen, or Malacca Strait, in the S.W. monsoon, ought to make the Island Narcondam, and from thence steer as before directed, to fall in with the land a little to the westward of the bar. All ships approaching the coast of Pegu in this season, ought to be well provided with ground tackle, for the weather is often dark and squally, preventing the land from being seen, and it would be (generally speaking) imprudent to borrow under 6 fathoms until some part of the coast is discerned and the situation known; ships are, therefore, necessitated at times, to ride at anchor during strong gales on the springs when the tides are very rapid; this ought to be done in 7¼ or 8 fathoms water at least, and not in shoal water near the banks which bound the coast.

To soil from Rangoon Bar in the N. E. monsoon.

DEPARTING FROM RANGOON RIVER in the N. E. monsoon, ships bound to Bengal, should steer when clear of the bar, to pass at a moderate distance outside of the shoals that stretch from the coast, then to the southward of Sunken Island; afterward, they may keep at a reasonable distance from the coasts of Ava and Aracan, in proceeding toward the River Hoogly. Those bound to Madras or other parts of the Coromandel Coast, may at discretion, pass through any of the channels between Sunken Island and Landfall Island at the North end of the Great Andaman, and then steer direct for their port, observing to fall in to the northward of it before February, and afterward, to the southward. Ships in the same season bound to Malacca Strait, ought to make the South end of Junkseylon; and if bound to Achen or the Nicobar Islands, a direct course may be pursued to the place of destination.

† The forests of large straight Teak, are situated on the low country in the vicinity of the rivers; the trees are cut down in the dry season, and when the low country is inundated by the swelling of the rivers during the rains, the felled trees are conducted to the river and floated down in large rafts to Rangoon. In the hilly country, there is probably pleuty of crooked teak timber for ship building, but the inconvenience of getting it to the rivers, has hitherto proved an obstacle too great for the natives to attempt bringing any of it to Rangoon.

VOL. II. C

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Directions for sailing from it in the S. W. monsoon.

DEPARTING FROM RANGOON RIVER in the S. W. monsoon, it is proper to work to the westward along the coast as far as Baragu Point, before a ship stand out into the open sea, whether she be bound for Bengal, the Coromandel Coast, Achen, or Malacca Strait. In coming out of the river, the pilot should not be permitted to take leave until the ship is well out, with the Elephant bearing N. by W. and in 5 fathoms water, unless those on board are well acquainted with the coast, and the exact situation known. In 5 fathoms with the Elephant N. by W., she will be near mid-channel; stretching from thence to sea, the water will soon shoal to 4½ fathoms, then she should tack and stand in shore to 6 fathoms and again tack, for the increase of depth, denotes the approach to the in-shore dangers.

When China Buckeer is brought to bear W. by S., longer tacks to seaward may be made at discretion, but it is advisable to keep near the coast, anchoring occasionally, and taking advantage of the tides, which run very strong. When in 5½ fathoms near low water, with China Buckeer bearing W. by N. 4 or 5 leagues, it may be seen appearing like a small island in the form of a quoin, and very little of any other part of the coast will then be discernible. Should it be night before a ship is abreast of China Buckeer, she ought with the ebb, be permitted to drive to windward under staysails, and the lead carefully attended to, that her situation may be known. The approach toward the shore will be shewn by the lead, the soundings being regular until a small patch of land called False China Buckeer is bearing N.N.W., or until the opening of Dalla River is abreast. Having got this far, the coast should not be borrowed on nearer than 7 or 8 fathoms; the soundings will be ouze throughout until Dalla River is passed, then sand and shells, which is a certain sign of the approach to Baragu Point. From this point, ships which sail well, if bound to Bengal, may continue to work to the westward, and pass between the Coco's and Preparis Islands, or close under lee of the latter; and from thence, if the wind keep between S. W. and S. S. W., they will probably reach Balasore road without tacking; otherwise, they must endeavour to get to the westward, by taking every advantage to tack with the favorable shifts.

Ships bound to Madras, will find it tedious and difficult to beat across the bay from the coast of Pegu during the S.W. monsoon, and those that sail indifferently, will find it impracticable; it therefore, seems advisable for them to pursue the same route as if bound to Achen. After working one or two tides to the westward of Baragu Point, a ship bound to Madras, or any port on the Coromandel Coast, to Achen, or Malacca Strait, may stand out to sea if the wind is well to the westward, and endeavour to pass near the Island Narcondam; in proceeding to the southward, care is requisite to tack occasionally, and keep well to the westward of the Archipelago of Islands fronting the coast of Tanasserim, which are little known, and form a lee shore, although between several of them there are safe channels. If bound into Malacca Strait, after rounding the South end of Junkseylon, a direct course may be steered for Prince of Wales' Island, but a ship bound for Achen, ought to keep well to the west, toward the Nicobar Islands, if that can be conveniently done; otherwise, she may stand close upon a wind to the southward and make the coast of Pedir, where a favorable current will be found setting to the westward, which will soon carry her to Achen. At this place she ought to fill up her water, if bound to the Coromandel Coast or to Ceylon, then proceed through the Bengal Passage, close round the North end of Pulo Brasse, to sea, as circumstances render convenient. When out in the open sea, every advantage should be taken to get to the S. Westward, and an indifferent sailing ship will probably have to proceed several degrees south of the equator, before she can obtain westing sufficient to reach her port with safety. Ships that sail well upon a wind, may make a more direct passage from Achen to the Coromandel Coast, which has sometimes been accomplished in less than three weeks during the strength of the S.W. monsoon, although a much longer time is often required to perform it.

Sittang River

SITTANG RIVER, about 10 or 11 leagues E. N. Eastward from Rangoon bar, is the

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easternmost and principal branch of Pegu River, and it is wider than the other generally called Rangoon River. This river forms a natural division between the low coasts of Pegu, and the high land called Zingat Mountains, or Martaban Hills, by falling into the bottom of the Gulf of Martaban.

COASTS of MARTABAN, TAVAY, and MERGUI; with SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Martaban Hills.

ZINGAT MOUNTAINS, or MARTABAN HILLS, bounding the east side of the entrance of Sittang River, are distant from the mouth of Rangoon River about 17 leagues, and bear from it East. At the foot of these hills the Town of Martaban is situated on the north bank of the Mautama River, called also San-luen, or Sanloan Meyeet*, or Martaban River.

River town, and coast adjacent.

The moderately elevated Island Pooloogyoon, called formerly Bruxe or Buga, situated to the southward of Martaban Hills, is now ceded to the British Government, and said to be very fertile. This island fronts the entrance of the San-luen River, on the North side of which is situated the Town of MARTABAN, or MAUTAMA, in lat. 16° 31′ N. The proper channel leading to it is to the eastward of the island, between this and the main, having, an extensive sand, called Godwin Sand, projecting off the south end of that island, which bounds the N.W. side of the channel leading into the river; and the S. E. side is bounded by a long reef of rocks, projecting from the shore at the foot of the Kiakamu or Quekmi Mountains, where there is a pagoda and the small island Zebo close to the Pagoda Point. The distance from the bar to the town of Martaban is about 8 or 9 leagues nearly due north, but the depths in the channel are not more than 2 or 3 fathoms in several places, and the river contains many banks and dangers, which render the navigation intricate for persons unacquainted.

Geo. Site of Quekmi Pagoda.

CAPE KYAI-KAMI, KIAKAMU, or QUEKMI, called also Cape Champion, upon which the Pagoda of Quekmi is situated, bounds the entrance of the San-luen or Martaban River on the eastern side, and lies in lat. 16° 3′ N. lon. 97° 39½′ E., and being low, is not seen above 10 or 12 miles from the deck. The reef extends from it in a westerly direction 1½ mile, rendering caution necessary, for there is no good land mark to guide a ship in entering between the reef, and the Godwin Sand on the western side of the channel.

Amherst Town.

The San-luen River, having been fixed on as the boundary between the Burmese dominions and the territory lately ceded to the British Government, AMHERST TOWN, in lat. 16° 3′ N., has been founded on a peninsula to which the same name has been given, situated near the mouth of the San-luen River, and formed between another river, the Kalyen, to the eastward, and the sea, and terminating in Cape Kyai-kami. This town is expected soon to become a place of considerable trade, and the channel of the river will no doubt, be well examined and buoyed off, with the appointment of pilots to carry ships up to the anchorage of Amherst Town, which is very capacious, and forms an excellent harbour. The tides in the river are strong, and rise from 19 to 20 feet; the depths at low water in some parts of the channel, are only about 2 fathoms, and it is narrow between the reef at the entrance, and the sand to the westward; there are also some narrow gaps in the reef, one of which is called Brisbane Passage. No vessel should run into the harbour at low tide, if drawing above 10 feet wa-

* Meyeet or Myeet signifies a Great River, and Kiun an Island, in the Burmese language.

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ter, but there is sufficient depth at high water for large ships, which is probably the best time to enter, although a pilot will be required for strangers.

In coming from the westward, it is advisable to make the entrance of this river in lat. 16° N., and when on this parallel, in lon. 96° 30′ E., the Zingat Mountains will be discernible in favorable weather. If soundings of 10 or 11 fathoms are got, a vessel will be on the Martaban coast; but if they decrease to 6 or 7 fathoms, she will be on the edge of the banks fronting Rangoon River or the adjacent coast.

Coast to Tavaya Point.

From Martaban Hills at the entrance of Sittang River, the coast extends nearly S. by E. ½ E. to Tavay Point, the distance about 60 leagues, agreeably to the observations of Capt. P. Heywood, who passed along it in H. M. sloop Trincomale in 1801. The whole of the coast appeared to be a chain of high islands, having inside of several of them, probably safe channels for ships. In lat. 14½° N., soundings of 22 to 28 fathoms are got about 4 and 5 leagues to the West and S. Westward; but farther to the North, the depths decrease to 12 fathoms at the distance of 7 or 8 leagues from the land, and at the distance of 10 leagues from it in lat. 16° N. there are only 7 or 7½ fathoms at low water. In lat. 15° N. about 3 leagues off shore, there is said to be a shoal, having close to it 10 fathoms water.

Geo. Site of Ye.

YE RIVER'S Entrance in about lat. 15° 12′ N. lon. 98° 2½′ E., is fronted by a group of Islands at 4 or 5 miles distance, the southernmost, called Nai-oojoon Island, seems the largest; the central one, Thoatail, has a pagoda on it; and the northernmost is called Pootchoon Island. YE, or YEH TOWN, the capital of the small Province of this name, which has recently been ceded to the British Government, is situated in about lat. 15° 15′ N., and about 5 or 6 miles from the river's mouth, which appears not of depth sufficient to admit large vessels.

Moscos Islands.

MOSCOS, or MUSCOS ISLANDS, extend in a chain parallel to the coast from lat. 14° 24′ N. to lat. 13° 43′ N., and are distant from it 3 and 4 leagues, having a safe channel inside, between them and the coast, with soundings mostly from 10 to 20 fathoms, deepening generally near the islands, and shoaling to 8 and 7 fathoms near the main. Between the southernmost and middle groups there are safe channels, which are the largest and highest of these islands; but the northern part of the chain is composed of straggling islands of various sizes, with several rocks above water; and 1½ mile east from the northernmost isle, there is a reef under water, and another reef about 2 miles N.½ E. from the same isle, with a rock above water near the latter, called the North Rock. Between this rock and the reef, there is a channel with 17 to 19 fathoms water, and close to both these reefs the depths are 16 and 18 fathoms. The North Ledge lies 6 miles off shore, in lat. 14° 27½′ N., about 4 miles N. N. Eastward from the northernmost island, and it is a sunken reef, with depths of 13 and 14 fathoms in a safe channel, about 1½ mile wide, formed between it and the other reef to the S. Westward. Close to the North Ledge on the inside, there are 9 fathoms water, gradually decreasing to 4½ or 5 fathoms about 1½ or 2 miles off shore, near the mouth of a river that bears E. N. Eastward from the North Ledge; and 5 miles farther to the northward, there is the entrance of another river, the south point of which forms like a dolphin's nose.

Geo. Site of Tavay Point.

Anchorage.

TAVAY, or TAVOY POINT,* in lat. 13° 30′ N., lon. 98° 6′ E., or 3° 47′ East from Diamond Island by chronometer, forms the West side of Tavay River's entrance. It is moderately high, bluff, covered with trees, and may be easily known by the Cap, a small round bushy islet, bearing from it W. 8° S. distant about 1½ mile: and about 7 leagues to the N.W. of the Point, is situated the southern extremity of the south group of Mosco's

* The Kingdom of Tavoy, is called Taway or Tawai by the Siamese. The Province of Yeh, is situated between Martaban and Tavoy.

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Islands, distant 3 leagues from the shore nearest to them, which are steep, having 20 or 22 fathoms close to, on their western sides. Inside of Tavay Point, there is good anchorage over a soft even bottom, and a large ship need not bring it to the southward of S.W. by S., where she may anchor in 6 fathoms; but a small ship of light draught, may go in much farther. His Majesty's sloop Trincomale, Capt. Heywood, moored in 5 fathoms at high water, and 3¼ fathoms at low water, and had the outer part of Tavay Point bearing S. 2° W., the watering place S. 51½° W., North point of the bay on with Button Island N. 15° E., West point of White Reef N. 19° E., Reef Island N. 25° E. to N. 37° E., Tavay Island S. 11° E. to S. 17° E., off the nearest shore by measured base and angles, 953 fathoms.

Watering place.

This place is convenient for wooding and watering*; the water is filled at a small brook, a little way round to the northward of the point, and near a rocky islet which is not more than 10 or 12 yards from the shore. About 2 miles to the northward of the watering place, lies the mouth of a salt water creek, abounding with alligators; they are so numerous, that none of the people belonging to ships should be permitted to bathe either along-side or near the beach.

Directions for proceeding to the anchorage.

Ships proceeding to the anchorage under Point Tavay to procure wood or water, may with a leading wind steer toward the Cap, and pass it at any convenient distance; the soundings regularly decrease from the offing to 17 or 16 fathoms close to the Cap, which depth will continue, until Point Tavay bears nearly N. N. E.; then Reef Island up the harbour, begins to open, and the depth will decrease to 10 or 9 fathoms in hauling round to the northward. When the Cap is shut in with the point, there are 7 or 8 fathoms at the distance of a mile from the shore, and when the latter bears S.W. ½ S. or S.W. by S., they may anchor near it in 6 fathoms at high water. The tides are not very regular, but it is high water about 10 hours on full and change of the moon, and the rise is 13 or 14 feet.

Geo. Site of Tavoy Town.

TAVOY TOWN, in lat. 14° 0′ N. lon. 98° 6′ E., is situated on the east bank of the river, about 9 leagues from the entrance, where extensive rice fields are cultivated in its vicinity. An excellent survey† of the river, has been executed by Lieut. R. Moresby, of the Bombay Marine, in 1824, exhibiting numerous shoals and low islands, which render the navigation of the river intricate, as there are various channels among them, having in some places only 2 or 2½ fathoms; but in many parts, the depths are from 6 to 8, 10, and 12 fathoms.

Directions.

If a ship should round Tavay Point with a strong southerly wind, it would be unpleasant to anchor in the outer road under the point; but in such case, she may run into the river, passing Reef Island on the cast side at ½ a mile to 1 mile distant, then keep within ½ a mile of the other Islands which bound the river on the west side, and the soundings will not be less than 5 or 5½ fathoms in this track. After being 2 or 3 miles to the north of Reef Island, she may anchor close to the western shore; or she may run farther up into 4 or 4½ fathoms, about 4 or 4½ miles above Reef Island, where she will be well sheltered to the northward of the third large island, where there is fresh water at a well. The Eastern shore of the river is fronted by a shoal flat, that occupies nearly half the breadth of the river, dry at low water spring tides in some places, towards which, the depths gradually decrease from the western side of the channel.

Tavay Island.

TAVAY ISLAND, in lat. 13° 14½′ N., the North end, bears from the point of the same name, about S. by E., distant 16 miles, and is of middling height, about 5 or 6 leagues in length, stretching N. by W. and S. by E. It is the northernmost large island of that extensive chain which fronts the coast, generally called Mergui, or Tanasserim Archipelago.

* In the late war, it was much frequented by French Privateers, when they were in want of these necessary articles.

† This has been engraved for the benefit of navigation, and sold by Kingsbury and Co.

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Geo. Site of Mergui.

MERGUI, called Beit Myoo by the Burmans, in about lat. 12° 12′ N.,* lon. 98° 24′ E. by lunar observations and chronometer, measured from Prince of Wales's Island, is situated at the entrance of the principal branch of Tanasserim River, and will probably become a port of considerable trade; as it has now come into the possession of the British government; for the country is fertile, and considered to be healthy, with a safe harbour, and an excellent inland navigation, well adapted for commerce.

To soil towards it in the N. W. monsoon.

Geo. Site of Tanasserim.

Ships bound from the Coromandel Coast or Ceylon, to Mergui, in the S.W. monsoon, ought to pass through the channel between the South end of Little Andaman and the Carnicobar Islands, or between the Little and Great Andamans, if they fall to leeward of the former. Those which come from Bengal in the same season, may pass through the channels on either side of the Cocos Islands, between them and the North end of Great Andaman, or between them and Preparis; and after passing near Narcondam, they should steer for the Island Tanasserim, situated in about lat. 12° 36′ N., lon. 97° 30′ E., distant from Mergui about 18 leagues to the W. N. Westward. The same island should be made by ships which pass to the southward of the Andamans. After leaving Narcondam, soundings will soon be got in steering for the islands off Mergui, when they are nearly approached.

To sail towards Mergui in the N. E. monsoon.

Ships bound from Bengal to Mergui during the whole of the N. E. monsoon, may pass through the channel formed between Sunken Island and Preparis, then steer to make Tavay Islands or the Moscos Islands to the N.W. of Tavay Point, if the wind blow steady from the northward; they may then pass inside of Tavay Island in proceeding toward Mergui, or to the westward of that island, betwixt the islets off it, and the Canisters, and afterward betwixt it and Iron Island.

In the strength of the N. E. monsoon, ships from the Coromandel Coast should also endeavour to pass to the northward of the Andamans, and from thence take every advantage to get to the eastward.

The islands composing the Mergui Archipelago are generally high, and may he seen from 10 to 15 leagues; the bank of soundings extends a little way beyond the outermost islands, by which the approach to them may be known in the night, if the lead is kept going.

To sail through the channels amongst the islands.

Geo. Site of Cabossa.

In coming from sea, Tanasserim Island when first perceived, makes in several hills, appearing like separate islands, which on a nearer view, are found to join. To the northward and southward of it, several islands appear of different sizes; of these, the most remarkable is the Western Canister, in lat.12° 40′ N., a high, steep, small, round island, about 2 or 3 leagues to the N. Westward of Tanasserim, by which it may be easily known. About 2 leagues N. E. by E. from the Western Canister lies Cabossa, in lat. 12° 46′ N., lon. 97° 29′ E., a middling high island, having a small islet or rock near it on the north side, and near the Western Canister are other islets. In coming from the southward, these islands may be easily known, as no others are seen to the north of Cabossa, for it is the northernmost of this range.

A ship having made this latter island, may pass to the northward, or between it and the Western Canister at discretion, then steer to the eastward in soundings from 30 to 35 fathoms; as the tides set very irregular amongst these islands, they require attention; off Cabossa it is high water about 8 hours on full and change of moon. Having passed Cabossa, the Little Canister, a high, steep, round island, covered with trees, will be seen directly to the eastward, distant about 8 leagues; it resembles the Western Canister, excepting that the north end of the latter slopes more gradually than its southern one, and forms a kind of snout. The Little Canister is bold and steep to, and may be passed on either side as most convenient, but about 3 leagues S.W. by S. from it there is said to be a rock even with the surface of the sea. The Great Canister, a high irregular island of middling size, bears from the former N.½ W., distant about 2 leagues, and is also safe to approach.

Having passed the Little Canister, a ship ought to steer East from it, between the South

* Some navigators place it several miles more to the northward.

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point of Tavay and the North end of Iron Island, in a channel about 2 leagues wide, and clear of danger; but the bottom in it being rocky, and the depths great, from 50 to 60 fathoms, with strong eddies at times, anchoring here is unsafe. Farther out, with the Little Canister bearing W. N.W. 2 leagues, there are 35 fathoms gravel and mud, and between it and Cabossa Island, the depths are generally from 35 to 22 fathoms, where a ship may anchor occasionally.

The North part of Iron Island, terminates in a point with rocks above water, having close to them 25 to SO fathoms water. From it N. ½ W. lies the South part of Tavay Island, formed by several islets and rocks, also steep to. After passing in mid-channel between these, Long Island will be seen bearing E. by S., extending nearly North and South on the edge of a rocky bank under water, that lines the coast from Tavay River's mouth to the entrance of Mergui River. The edge of this bank, or Long Island, need not be approached, but when round the North point of Iron Island, it is best to steer along its eastern side at 2 miles distance, toward King's Island bay, Which bears to the S. S. E.; and the depths will be various from 36 to 17 fathoms, decreasing toward the bank lining the coast.

There is also a channel between Iron Island and King's Island, destitute of good anchorage, the water being deep, with strong tides running in eddies; if the tide fail a ship in steering from Cabossa toward this channel, she should anchor as near to Iron Island as convenient, until the first of next flood; in entering the channel, she must keep nearest to Iron Island until past the islets and rocks that stretch out from King's Island, the outermost islet being very low and surrounded by rocks. Although this channel is safe with a steady commandiug breeze, that to the northward of Iron Island ought to be preferred.

To sail into King's island Bay.

KING'S ISLAND BAY, formed between the island of this name and Plantain Island, (two large islands that bound the west side of the channel leading to Mergui River) is a place of shelter for ships, but in entering it, care is requisite to avoid the Ly's Shoal, on which the French ship, le Ly's, touched in 1724. It bears N. N. E. about 1½ or 2 miles from the East point of King's Island, which is the North point of the bay, and it is a reef of rocks extending about a cable's length W. N.W. and E. S. E., with 19 feet on the shoalest part at high water, and only 9 feet at low water. When on it, the point of King's Island and a small islet were in one, and Panella Island on with the highest part of the N.W. point of Plantain Island, and the northernmost of the small islands betwixt Iron and King's Islands, was open about a sail's breadth from the north point of the latter. Near this shoal on the north side, the depths are 7, 10, and 15 fathoms in going from it; proceeding from it toward the point of King's Island, 6, 7, 10, and 12 fathoms; and toward Plantain Island, 6, 7, and 9 fathoms rocky ground about a cable's length off Panella, which is a small islet upon a sand bank with some trees on it, situated a little way from the N.W. point of Plantain Island, and appears as part of it when seen at a distance. To the eastward, almost joining to the islet, there is another sand bank; and a reef of rocks stretches to the S. W., part of it only visible at low water.

To enter King's Island Bay, a ship must keep the N. E. side of King's Island a league distant, by steering to the eastward until the bay is open, and two small islands at the bottom of it are visible; she may then enter, leaving the Ly's Shoal on the starboard, and Panella Islet on the larboard hand. She will pass the latter safely, provided care is taken to avoid the reef of rocks that projects to the S.W. toward the bay, for the sea seldom breaks on it, and she may be horsed toward the rocks by the turn of the tides; but the channel between the Ly's Shoal and these rocks is wide enough to pass through in safety, with proper care.

When clear of the Ly's Shoal, she must steer westward into the bay, and anchor under King's Island, opposite to a small bay into which runs a stream of excellent water, with the N. E. point of the island North or N. by W. 1½ mile, the north-west point of Plantain Island E. ¾ S., and Long Island N. by E. ½ E.

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The bay, to the southward of the anchorage is shoal, and the small creek that separates Plantain and King's Islands, is only passable in country boats. The tide rises here about 10 or 12 feet, and it is high water about 10 hours on full and change of the moon. King's Island, and most of the others are inhabited; it is infested by tigers and snakes; and on it and the other islands, there is plenty of large strait timber fit for masts, and several parts of ship building.

If by a change of wind or tide, a ship is obliged to enter King's Island bay by the channel between the N. E. part of that island and Ly's Shoal, which is at most ½ a league wide, she must keep within ½ or ¾ of a mile of the shore, before she begin to approach the N. E. point of the island, taking care not to incline to open the bay until she is within that distance of the shore; for if steering in with the point and small islet at the bottom of the bay in one, she would run directly upon the shoal.

In going out of the bay, the best track is to keep mid-channel between the N. E. point of King's Island and Panella Islet, without borrowing to the westward until past the shoal, which will be known when the second islet or rock between King's Island and Iron Island is opened with the north end of the former.

Proceeding out by the Little Passage, a ship must steer along King's Island, rounding the point that forms the bay about ½ a mile distance.

And from thence to Mergui Road.

MERGUI ANCHORAGE, off the entrance of the river, is about 5 leagues to the S.E. of King's Island bay; a ship being abreast of the latter place, and bound to the anchorage at Mergui, should pass the N. E. point of Plantain Island at 2 miles distance, then keep in mid-channel, the Little Canister must be kept open with the South point of Iron Island, and almost shut in by the North point of Plantain Island; the soundings will be soft, decreasing from 15 to 13, 12, 9, and 8 fathoms. The best anchorage for large ships, is in 6½ fathoms at low water, with the North point of Plantation Island on with the South part of the Little Canister, the South point of Iron Island N.W., open about 10° from the Little Canister, the northernmost part of Madramacan Island (which forms the S.W. side of the river's entrance) S. 3° E., distant 3 or 4 miles, and the point on the East side of the entrance S. by E. Here, it is high water about 11½ hours at full and change of moon, and the rise of tide is 14 or 15 feet.

The distance is about 2 leagues from the road to the town of Mergui; vessels of moderate size, by taking pilots, can go over the bar into the river, and anchor off the town in 5 fathoms water. Elephant's teeth, wax, wood oil, and other articles, are exported from hence in ships belonging to merchants that reside here, who in general are natives of Hindoostan. Water may be had in great plenty from a run on Madramacan Island, also on Plantain Island, and in King's Island bay.

In sailing from the road, a ship should observe the same marks as in entering, that is, to keep the Little Canister just open from the North point of Plantain Island, and pass the point at 2 miles distance, then keep the Little Canister a little open with the South point of Iron Island; and when abreast of King's Island bay, she may, as seems most convenient, go out either to the northward or southward of Iron Island.

To avoid the dangers on both sides of the channel, when sailing to, or from Mergui, Road with a contrary wind, a ship may, from the entrance of King's Island bay to the small island about half way from thence to Mergui, stand to the northward till the South point of Iron Island is on with the centre of the Little Canister, and to the southward until within a mile or rather less of Plantain Island. From the small island mentioned, to Mergui Road, she may stand to the northward until the South part of Iron Island nearly touches the Little Canister, but it is prudent to keep them a little open, to avoid the edge of the dangerous bank that fronts the coast. In standing to the southward, the North point of Plantain Island

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must be kept at least a ship's breadth open with the South point of Iron Island, to avoid a bank which projects on this side from the Island Madramacan.

Ships being off Point Tavay or the Mosco's Islands with a northerly wind, should steer for the N. E. end of Tavay Island, and will have various depths, generally from 25 to 15 fathoms over a muddy bottom, until near that part of the island: they ought then to proceed by the inner channel on the East side of Tavay Island, keeping nearer to the islets that lie contiguous to it, than to the extensive rocky bank that fronts the main, having on the edge of it a small round island, and farther to the southward Long Island, mentioned in the foregoing directions.

To sail from Mergui in either monsoon

DEPARTING from MERGUI in the N. E. monsoon, ships ought to pass through some of the channels between the North end of the Great Andaman and Sunken Island, whether bound to Bengal or the Coromandel Coast, and conform to the directions already given for sailing from Rangoon Bar in this monsoon; but if February is commenced, those bound to the Coromandel Coast ought to proceed by the channel to the southward of the Little Andaman, and make sure to fall in with the land to the southward of their port, for southerly winds begin then to prevail, with a current setting along the coast to the northward.

Ships bound to Achen, or Malacca, Strait, after rounding the outermost islands of the Archipelago, may in the former case steer direct for the Golden Mount; and if bound to Malacca Strait, they may steer for the Seyer Islands, or the South end of Junkseylon, or direct for the Nicobars, if bound there.

If a ship leave Mergui in the S.W. monsoon, she must take every advantage to work to the westward clear of the islands, and pass through the Cocos or Preparis channel, if bound to Bengal. She must stand to the southward when she can clear the islands, if bound to Malacca Strait, Achen, or the Coromandel Coast, and follow the directions given for sailing from Rangoon Bar in the S.W. monsoon. If acquainted with the coast, and finding great difficulty to get to the westward of all the islands, she might venture to pass inside of the principal groups, between them and the main, where a continued channel extends to Junkseylon, inside of the Tanasseriln,* Aladin, and Seyer Islands, with various soundings in it from 5 or 6, to 20 fathoms. There is good anchorage under many of the islands, and it is proper to keep nearer to them than to the main, but attention to the lead and a good look out will be requisite, this channel not being yet well explored.

TANASSERIM† ARCHIPELAGO, A LADIN, and SEVER ISLANDS; and that COAST from MERGUI to JUNKSEYLON, with SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Caution in approaching the Tanasserim Archipelago.

THE ARCHIPELAGO of islands fronting the coast of Tanasserim are imperfectly known, ships therefore approaching, or intending to pass through any of the channels formed by these numerous islands, must proceed with caution. As there are soundings on the out-

* The ship Susannah, Captain Drysdale, from Bengal bound to Malacca Strait, fell to leeward and got among these islands during the strength of the S.V. monsoon; the weather being dark and squally, she always anchored under some island in the night, and pushed through among them in the day. Captain Forrest, in the Esther brig, fell also to leeward, went inside of Domel and all the principal islands of the Archipelago, of which he made a cursory survey.

† Called Tannau by the Siamese, and Tannethaiee by the natives.

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side of most of them, (although rather close towards some of them, with deep water) their proximity will be known by the lead if kept going, and in passing through any of the channels, or inside of the islands, a boat should be kept a-head sounding, for several unexplored dangers may perhaps exist.

Geo. Site of Tores Islands.

The Tores Islands, in lat. 11° 50′ N., lon. 97° 3′ E., are the westernmost of the Archipelago; they form a high group of two large, and several smaller islands, the outermost being largest, and are distant about 26 leagues from the coast.

In lat. 11° 21′ N., about 11 leagues S. S. E. from the westernmost, or Great Tores Island, is situated a dangerous rock, which lies about 4 leagues west from the nearest islets to the eastward; these being part of the first group to the southward of Little Clara, and to the westward of Domel.

Domel, the adjacent island, and inside channel.

LAMBEE, or DOMEL ISLAND, called also Omel, or Great Clare, is the largest island of the Archipelago, the north end of it being situated to the S. Eastward of Tares Islands, about 11 or 12 leagues, and it is thought to extend from lat. 11° 4′ to about 10° 44′ N., being 7 or 8 leagues in length, and 4 or 4½ leagues in breadth, and it is a high, uncultivated island. About 5 leagues W. S.W. from its north end, and 8 leagues S. Eastward from Tores Islands, lies Little Clara, with other islands near it; and the depths decrease from 30 fathoms on the N.W. side of it, to 18 and 16 fathoms near the north point of Domel. The channel from sea, appears wide and safe to the northward of these islands, between them and the Tores Group; and afterward, along the east side of Domel, the depths are generally from 5 or 6 to 9 fathoms, about 2 or 3 miles from that shore, where a ship is well sheltered from the S.W. monsoon. This island is distant 6 or 7 leagues from the main, which from Mergui, is mostly low, or of moderate elevation, with banks and islands fronting it; and another branch of Tanasserim River, in this space, falls into the sea. About 5 miles inside of the north point of Domel, there is good anchorage in 5 or 6 fathoms under an island, having rocks and islets between it and the principal island, where water and timber may be procured. Between Domel and the main, there are several small islets and banks, and a ship passing along the east side of Domel, must avoid the Half Moon Shoal in about lat. 11° 7′ N., off the island about 4 miles, having a safe channel of 5 and 6 fathoms between it and that shore.

From Domel to the island St. Matthew, there is a continued chain of islands, the largest and highest of which are generally those to seaward, excepting that called St. Susannah, about 5 or 6 leagues from the south end of Domel, is nearly 3 leagues in length. North and South, and about 2 leagues in breadth. To the westward of it, at 5 or 6 leagues distance, two small islets, called the Twins, front the sea in this place, bearing North and South from each other about 3 leagues, the southernmost being in lat. 10° 32′ N., and bears about S. by E. from the Tores Islands.

On the east side of the chain, between Domel and St. Susannah, the depths are Mostly from 10 to 15 fathoms, but abreast of the latter there are overfalls; and Bowen's Shoal, dry at low water, is situated 1½ or 2 miles from the east point of the island, in about lat. 10° 32′ N. About 3 miles to the southward of the same point, there is good water on the north side of Flat Island, which issues from a rocky eminence; this, and the adjacent islands abound with trees, some of them fit for masts, and plenty of oysters may be got on the rocks and islets at low tide, which rises here 11 feet, and flows till 12 o'clock at full and change of the moon.

Between St. Susannah and St. Matthew's Islands, there is thought to be several good channels among the smaller islands, through which ships might pass, and be sheltered inside of the Archipelago in cases of distress, during the S.W. monsoon, when the squalls are sometimes very severe near this coast, with dark cloudy weather and much rain. They could lie in

* The late Capt. Forrest, and Capt. Inverarity, differed from each other upward of 20 miles in the latitude of this island; and also in the latitudes of the other islands, from hence to Junkseylon, these navigators differed greatly.

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smooth water and repair their damages, and proceed by the inner passage to the southward, when the weather became favorable.

Pine Tree Island

PINE TREE ISLAND, in about lat. 10° 17′ N., nearly mid-way between St. Susannah and St. Matthew, has a dangerous reef on its West and S.W. sides; on the west side of Cat Island, which is the next to the northward, there are several rocks; and 5 miles south from the former, and about 1 mile S. S. E. from a small island there is a reef of breakers, having a group of five islands about a league to the eastward. The soundings inside, and amongst those islands situated between St. Susannah and St. Matthew, are in general from 9 to 20 fathoms, but not always regular.

St.Matthew, the harbour neighbouring Islands, and coasts.

ELEPHANT ISLAND, or ST. MATTHEW, about 6 or 7 leagues in length, or from lat. 10° 5′ N., extending S. S. W. to 9° 46′ N., is about 5 or 6 leagues from the continent, and may be seen at a great distance, the highest part of it in the middle of the island being nearly 3000 feet above the level of the sea. At the north part of the island, there is a spacious bay, with soft bottom in it from 5 to 8 fathoms: by the islands off the entrance of this bay protecting it from the sea, and being sheltered from all winds, it forms an excellent harbour, which may be called Elephant Harbour, about 4 miles in length and 3 in breadth. Lieutenant Low, of the Madras army, celebrated by his scientific pursuits, and knowledge of the language and character of the Siamese, and adjacent nations, touched here in 1825; he describes it as a very spacious harbour, capable of containing the largest navy in the world, having soundings from 17, to 12, 11, and 10 fathoms nearly close to the shore in some places. It is formed to the south, by the north end of St. Matthew and the contiguous islets; by Phipp's, Russel's, and several smaller isles to the west; by Hastings, Barwell's, and several other isles to the east; and it is completely land-locked. Hastings Island abounds with wild hogs, pigeons, and excellent fresh water. About 4 miles farther to the eastward, under the N. E. point of the island, called the Dolphin's Nose, there is another bay affording shelter for boats or small vessels; and on either side of the White Rock, off the Dolphin's Nose, there is a safe passage, but it is best to give a wide birth to the N. E. part of the large island opposite, on account of a 2 fathoms shoal near it.

From the N.W. end of St. Matthew, three or four islands, (St. Andrew's, and others) extend to the westward about 4 leagues, fronting the sea in this place, and appear to be safe to approach.

On the continent opposite to the north end of St. Matthew, there is a river, and a group of islands close to the shore; several other rivers fall into the sea between it and Mergui, and the whole of the main is generally of moderate height. Nearly close to it in about lat. 9° 40′ N., opposite to the south end of St. Matthew, there is a group of islands, and probably a harbour inside of the two outermost, which are the largest; for close to these on the outside, and also between them, the depths are from 7 to 10 fathoms, increasing regularly to 15 or 16 fathoms near the island St. Matthew. About the middle of the eastern coast of the latter, there is a bay directly under the high land, formed by a point of land on the north side, and an island to the southward; here, is a cascade of fresh water, and good anchorage on the north side of the island in 8 or 10 fathoms.* Farther to the southward, near the S. E. end of St. Matthew, there are several rocks and islets with 17 and 18 fathoms water near them, decreasing regularly toward the continent in a safe channel.

Roe's Bank a late discovery.

ROE'S BANK, discovered by Capt. Roe, in the ship Henry, bound from Prince of Wales Island to Calcutta, July 31st, at 5 P. M. rocks were seen under the ship's bot-

* The Princess Royal, filled up her water at the Sandy Bay on the north end of the island, where they found wild plantains, plenty of wild yams, and ground rattans of large size. This ship did not anchor, but stood off and on, while watering.

D 2

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tom, had 8½ fathoms, kept sounding, and had 10, 12, 15, and 20 fathoms, then no ground with 80 fathoms of line. By this day's observation, made the bank in lat. 9° 59′ N. lon. 96° 50′ E. by account. Although in the latitude of the high island St. Matthew, and the evening clear, no land could be seen from the mast-head: the ship was ½ an hour in passing over the bank, going at the rate of 2 miles per hour, which makes it about 1 mile in extent North and South.

Geo.site.

Capt. Roe, in command of the transport ship, Robarts, bound from Rangoon to Madras, again got upon this bank, July 25th, 1825, at 7 A. M.; steering S. S.W. about 3 miles per hour, saw rocks under the bottom, put the helm down, and had ground 10 fathoms, when in the stays: in standing again to the northward to get off the bank, had 10 fathoms, then no ground with the hand-lead, and by the time the deep-sea lead was ready, the ship was in deep water. From this day's observation, made the northern edge of the bank in lat. 10° 2′ N. lon. 96° 45′ E. by chronometer, which is probably 5 miles too far east, and in such case, the bank will be situated in about lat. 10° 2′ N., lon. 96° 40′ E., and bears West about 75 miles from the island St. Andrew's.

As this bank is in the track of ships, passing between Bengal and the Strait of Malacca, or other eastern ports, it seems strange, that it has remained undiscovered tili the present time; and although 8½ fathoms was the least water found on it, there may probably be rather less on some patches, as the bank was not fully explored, but perhaps no part of it is dangerous.

Aladin Islands, and coast opposite,

ALADIN, or ALLEDIE ISLANDS, (named from the central Bluff Island) being a continuation of the Tanasserim Archipelago, extend from the south end of St. Matthew to lat. 9° 19′ N., and are all high, bold to approach, and may be seen a great distance; but the large southern island in lat. 9° 25′ N., has rocks off its N. W. point, and is surrounded by small islands.

Nearly in a line, about mid-way between them and the Seyers, lies Middle Island by itself in lat. 9° 3′ N., which is high, and sometimes considered as the southernmost of the Aladin Islands, although detached from them. A little inside of a direct line joining this and the southern group of these islands, there are soundings from 40 to 34 fathoms.

Perforated Island, in lat. 8° 50′ N., situated about 4 leagues South from Middle Island, and 4 leagues N. E. by N. from the northernmost of the Seyers, is another detached island, named by Capt. David Inverarity, on account of a hole that passes through it; who in the ship, Chance, worked from Junkseylon, inside of the Seyers, Perforated, and Middle Islands, and on the west side of the other groups of the Archipelago as far as Tores Islands, in his passage from China to Rangoon. Perforated Island, has soundings about 2 miles inside of it from 40 to 50 fathoms, 2 leagues E. N. E. 33 fathoms, and 5 miles S. by E. from it 35 fathoms, to the N. E. of the Great Seyer.

To Bangri,

The channel betwixt these islands and the main is about 6 leagues wide, having regular soundings in it from 20 fathoms off the northernmost Aladin's, to 8 or 9 fathoms near the islands and banks contiguous to the coast opposite to them, which there, takes a S. S.Westerly direction, and forms a large bay abreast of the islands. In about lat. 8° 53′ N., there is an inlet to a lagoon or bay, where Bangri, a place of some trade, and frequented by the coasting vessels, is situated. On the south side, this inlet is bounded by a narrow tongue of sloping land; the point on the north side is low and covered with trees, perfectly level; at the entrance there is a perpendicular rock, and about 3 miles off, a dangerous shoal on which the sea breaks; from this shoal, the southernmost or detached Aladin, called Middle Island, bears about W. ½ N., and Perforated Island, near the Seyer Islands, about W. S.W.; the depth of water about 1 ½ or 2 miles outside of this shoal, is 12 fathoms.

And Papra strait.

From Bangri Inlet the coast takes a direction, first S. by W., then South and S. ½ E. about 13 or 14 leagues to Papra Strait in lat. 8° 9′ N., which separates Junkseylon Island from the

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continent, and is closed up by a reef of rocks at the entrance, over which the sea breaks high in bad weather.

The whole extent of land bordering the sea from Tavay River to the Strait of Papra, is generally called the Coast of Tanasserim, although the narrowest part of the continent which separates Siam Gulph from the Bay of Bengal, is sometimes called the Isthmus of Kraw. In the channel inside of the Tanasserim Archipelago, the flood generally comes from southward, except opposite to some of the channels between the islands, it comes through from West or S.W., according to their direction; and the ebb mostly comes from northward, except where it sets out to the westward in some places betwixt the smaller islands: amongst some of these, eddies and irregular tides prevail, but inside of the principal islands, the flood sets northward, and the ebb in the contrary direction, from 2½ to 3 or 3½ miles per hour on the springs, and rises 10 or 11 feet.

Seyer Island.

Geo. Site.

SEYER ISLANDS, although detached, may be considered as the termination to the southward, of the Great Chain or Archipelago, fronting the coast of Tanasserim; although not so much elevated as some of the Aladin Islands, they are bold, safe to approach, and may be seen 8 or 9 leagues. By observation at noon, the northernmost island bearing E. by S. about 6 leagues, I made it in lat. 8° 43′ N.: the island next to this, called the Great Seyer, is of considerable magnitude, but the others are all small; and from the northernmost, they extend in a chain nearly south, to about lat. 8° 28′ N. They are 11 or 10. leagues west of Pulo Rajah and the south end of Junkseylon, or in lon. 97° 48′ E., and appear eight in number, with two rocky islets off the S.W. end of the Great Seyer; next to it, the two southernmost islands are the largest of this group. On the east side of the Great Seyer Island, there is anchorage near the shore, although the depth is considerable; about 2 miles to the N. E. of it there is no bottom at 35 fathoms; a little farther east, and from thence to the main, soundings are got in the channel inside of these islands, which is from 7 to 9 leagues in breadth: along the west side of Junkseylon, soundings are obtained at a moderate distance from the shore, decreasing near it to 8 or 9 fathoms.

Geo site of Junkseylon; adjaceut island,

SALANG, JUNKSEYLON, or JAN-SYLAN ISLAND, separated from the continent by Papra* Strait, extends from lat. 8° 9′ to 7° 46′ N., being 8 leagues in length, and about 3 leagues broad. There is a high regular sloping mountain on its southern part that may be seen 12 leagues, which is in lon. 98° 20′ E., or 2° ½′ West from the fort of Prince of Wales Island by chronometers, † measured by me at different times, and at another time 17° 58′ East from Madras Flagstaff. On the meridian of this mountain, and the South end of Junkseylon, in lat. 7° 36′ N., lies a high woody island, called Pulo Rajah or Pulo Taya; and 5 miles South from it, there are two other small but middling high islands, called the Brothers, with an islet near them. Between these islands and others contiguous to the South end of Junkseylon, the channel is safe, with soundings from 20 to 25 fathoms, and it may be adopted by ships coming from the westward; but the great channel to go into the bay, is on the east side of Pulo Rajah and the Brothers.

The western coast of Junkseylon, stretches nearly North and South; on the East side there are several bays, and the chief one where the harbour is situated about 4 leagues from the S. E. point of the island, is opposite to the small river, where Tarooa, Terooa, or Tha-rooa, the principal town stands about 1½ mile up the river; Tha-rooa, signifying the "Landing Place." The great passage into the harbour, is on the East side of the two Lalan Islands, which lie off the entrance in lat. 7° 56′ N.; and the anchorage is to the N. W. of them in

* Called Pak Pra, by the Siamese, signifying the "Mouth of the Deity."

† Captain Blair made the same mountain 2° 1 ¾′ West from the fort of Prince of Wales Island by chronomecer; and he made the Lalan Islands in lon. 98° 23′ East, by an eclipse of the 1st Satellite of Jupiter. Variation 2° 15′ East, in 1788.

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4 or 4½ fathoms mud, with the Little Lalan or northernmost island E. by S. 1 mile, the mouth of the river West or W. ¼ N. 3 or 4 miles, and the East point of the large island Pulo Coco, bounding the South side of the harbour S. ½ E. There is another passage into the harbour with 5 fathoms water, between the Great or South Lalan and a small islet called the Cap and Feather, off the eastern point of Pulo Coco. The great passage or North entrance, is bounded on the North side by an extensive reef of rocks dry at low water, which bears North from Little Lalan distant 2 miles. It is high water at 10 hours on full and change of the moon, the rise of tide is 11 or 12 feet, which runs about 2 miles per hour to the northward between Junkseylon and the large island Pulo Panjang to the eastward; and the ebb sets to the southward with equal velocity. At this place, water, poultry, and various articles of refreshment may be procured in abundance, and formerly it exported a considerable quantity of tin. The natives here have been generally hospitable to strangers, when it belonged to the Malay Rajah of Queda, but it has been forcibly occupied by the Siamese of Ligor. Exclusive of Terooa Bay, other harbours are formed in the North part of the gulf between the islands Junkseylon and Panjang, particularly among the Nacavsa Islands, about 5 miles to the northward of the Lalan Islands; also in the entrance of Papra Strait, but the depths inside of that strait being generally from 2 to 3½ fathoms, without any safe passage at its western entrance to seaward, prevents it from being frequented by trading vessels. The strait between Pulo Panjang and the coast, is called Callat Leheree, i. e. Throat Strait, it having only 2 feet at low water in the shoalest part. The South end of Pulo Panjang, and the islands interspersed between it and the South end of Junkseylon, are safe to approach, with soundings from 10 to 15 fathoms amongst them, decreasing toward the shores on either side of the entrance of the gulf. Pulo Panjang, i.e. Long Island, is called Ka Yau by the Siamese, who now possess Salang, and the whole of the country from Tannaserim round the coast to Queda, called by them Kedda, against which the Rajah of Ligor sent a strong force of Siamese in 1822, who made a conquest of the Rajah of Quedah's dominions, which forced him to take refuge at Penang, and place himself under the protection of that government.

ANDAMAN ARCHIPELAGO; with SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Geo. Site of Preparis.

PREPARIS ISLAND, extending nearly N. by E. and S. by W. from lat, 14° 49′ N. to 14° 56′ N., being 7 or 8 miles long, and 2 broad, and in lon. 93° 40′ E., or 33 miles to the westward of Cape Negrais by chronometer, is of moderate height, sloping gradually all round toward the sea, covered with wood, steep to, on the East side, having 7 fathoms water near the shore. At the North end, there are two small islets called the Cow and Calf, apparently steep to, and on the West side, two other small islets, situated on a Great Reef that stretches out from Preparis Island to the westward, and 4 leagues southward from its southern extremity, part of the rocks are visible above water.

This reef seems to be of greater extent, and more dangerous than hitherto supposed, as will be perceived by the following account of it, transmitted to me by Capt. Balston, of the country ship James Drummond.

August 13th, 1815, steering to the S. E. to check the N. E. current, and to give a birth to the reef which projects from the South end of Preparis Island, when a rock above water was seen bearing S. E., and shortly after, a flag displayed on it: immediately sent the cutter, which passed through a great surf, and returned afterward, with Capt. Daniels, Mr. White

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first officer, and eight men belonging to the brig Athena, wrecked three days previously on this reef.* In steering to the S. E. after saving these people, saw breakers about 5 or 6 miles distant from the rock on which the brig was wrecked, so that this reef extends much farther from the South end of Preparis Island than generally represented; I made the northern extreme of the island in lat. 15° 7′ N., † the southern extremity of the breakers in lat. 14° 44′ N., but the extent of the breakers to the eastward was riot visible in the evening from the mast head.

Capt. Nairne, passed through the channel to the south of the reef, in the General Kyd, October 8th, 1817, and is of opinion, that the reef extends 12 miles to the southward of Preparis Island, and that probably the water is shoal much farther out. The breakers ran very high at this time.

It is therefore, only on the East side of Preparis Island, where ships can safely anchor, in 12 or 14 fathoms; or a small vessel may anchor in 8 or 9 fathoms with the extremes of the island from N. 2° E. to S. 65° W., the extremity of the reef projecting from the South end of it S. 35° E., and the two islets off the North end N. 3° E. to N. 8° E. about a large ½ mile from the shore. A few paces from a fine sandy beach formed between two ledges of rocks, there is a pond of fresh water very convenient for watering, where boats may land with safety; it is in one with the highest part of the island bearing N.W. which is not inhabited. About 2 miles from the east side of the island there are 24 fathoms, and close to the reef at the southern extremity 30 to 36 fathoms; farther tp the southward, no ground is got with 100 fathom line in mid channel between it and the Cocos Islands, but when the latter are approached within 2 or 3 leagues, bearing to, the S. S.W., there is ground from 36 to 32 fathoms. In the channel between Preparis and Sunken Island, the soundings vary from 40 and 44 fathoms near mid channel, to 24 or 22 fathoms near the former, and 17 or 18 fathoms near Sunken Island.

Geo. Site of Great Coco.

GREAT COCO, bearing from Preparis Island S. 17° W., distant 46 miles, and extending from lat. 14° 2′ N. to 14° 8′ N., ‡ is in lon. 93° 26½′ E; by chronometer and lunar observations. It is nearly 6 miles in length North and South, and 2 miles in breadth, covered with trees, some of which near the sea are cocoa-nut trees; and being of moderate height, a little uneven in its contour, may be seen at the distance of 6 or 7 leagues. Off the North end, there are two islets called the Table and Slipper from their aspect; and another islet is connected with the South end by a reef of rocks just covered at high water, that projects a considerable way into the sea. A ship may anchor on the East side of the Great Coco in from 14 to 20 fathoms, also on the West side, but there is little inducement to land here, firewood being the only article procurable, and perhaps a little water in some parts, by digging pits.

Little Coco.

Channel between them.

LITTLE COCO, bears from the great one S. 48° W., distant about 3 leagues, and N. N. E. from Cape Price, the N. E. point of Great Andaman, distant 9 leagues, the centre of it being in lat. 13° 58½′ N., and it is about 2½ miles long North and South, and ½ a mile broad; it is low, or rather moderately elevated, of an even appearance, and may be seen 6 or 6½ leagues. Trees cover it in every part, some of which facing the sea, are cocoa-nut or palmyra trees, and there is said to be fresh water on the East side, where a ship might anchor in moderate depths; at the N.W. end there is also anchorage with regular soundings toward

* Eighteen men had left the rock on two small rafts, before the 13th of August, in hope that the N. E. current would drift them to the coast of Tanasserim, but as they had neither a sail, oars, nor provision, they probably all perished.

† This is considerably to the northward of the situation assigned to that part of the island by other navigators, and may probably not be very correct.

‡ By Capt. J. Ritchie, but Capt. Hall, made the Great Coco in lat. 14° 11′ N., lon. 93° 25′ E.

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the shore, and a fine sandy bay on the West side where boats may land, but no fresh water is procurable there. From the south end of the island, a reef projects to a considerable distance, which ought to be avoided in passing, particularly in the night. These islands, and Preparis, abound with monkies and squirrels; larger animals have not been seen upon them. Around, and between the Cocos Islands, the soundings vary from 8 to 30 fathoms, deepening as the distance from them is increased to the East or Westward, suddenly to no ground. The Margaret passed through the channel between them, April 25th, 1802, and the least water she had was 8 fathoms. The Company's ship Nassau, went through this channel in 1779, and had regular soundings of 24 to 36 fathoms.

The Bridgewater, Capt. Manderson, August 9th, 1825, from Bengal, bound to China, went through the channel between the Great and Little Coco, and carried regular soundings of 30, 25, and 21 fathoms, in passing nearest to the Little Coco, with the wind at S.W, The General Kyd, Capt. Nairne, and Hythe, Capt. Wilson, also passed through this channel, after the Bridgewater, and on the same day: the channel appeared about 3 leagues wide, and clear of danger.

Channel between little Coco and Landfall Island.

The channel between the Little Coco, and Landfall Island off the North end of the Great Andaman, is about 6 leagues wide, and hitherto thought to be very safe,* with soundings 30 or 35 fathoms near the former, and from 40 to 56 fathoms about mid-channel, decreasing to 20 and 18 fathoms near Landfall Island and the ledges of rocks to the eastward of it: the bank of soundings is about 4½ or 5 leagues broad East and West, the bottom mostly coral, but in some places it is sand and mud. During the N. E. monsoon, the current sets frequently through this channel to the N.W.; in the S.W. monsoon it sets mostly to the eastward, although in fine settled weather, tides prevail among these islands, the flood setting to N. N. E., and the ebb to the S. S.Westward.

Geo Site of the North end of Great Andaman.

Islands.

GREAT ANDAMAN, extending from Cape Price, its N. Eastern extremity, in lat. 13° 34′ N., lon. 93° 9′ E., to the S. E. point in lat. 11° 30′ N. lon. 92° 56′ E., or nearly S. W., about 42 leagues in length, and from 6 to 10 leagues in breadth; although generally considered as one large island, it is in reality composed of three islands, separated from each other by two narrow straits, one in about lat. 12° 50′ N., and the other in 12° 10′ N.; there is thought to be depth sufficient in these straits for a vessel not drawing much water, but they are too contracted to be navigated except by boats, or very small vessels. About 6 or 7 miles to the W. S.W. of Cape Price, is situated Cape Thornhill, the N.W. extremity of the island, off which at a small distance, there are two islets called Cliff and Reef Islands, and 3 miles to the northward of these, lies West Island: about 6 miles to the N. Eastward of the latter, in lat. 13° 39′ N., is situated Landfall Island, fronting the North end of the Andaman, at the distance of 4 or 5 miles, the East part of it bearing nearly North from Cape Price. It is the largest of these islands, of level aspect, and may be seen about 6 leagues; there is off its eastern point an islet called East Island, and both are encompassed by a reef having 3 fathoms on its western verge, which should not be approached under 18 or 20 fathoms in any part, particularly in the night or thick weather.

Channels.

The channel between Landfall Island and the North end of the Andaman, should not be attempted, being dangerous and very narrow, † having in the middle of it Cleugh's Reef, with

* But Capt. Henderson, and Capt. Bennett, both experienced commanders in the country trade, have informed me, that, in 1809, the brig Daphne, although drawing only 10 feet water, struck lately on a sunken rock which lies 6 miles south of the Little Coco. An extract from the Daphne's journal, lately received from Capt. Ashmore, states that the S. E. end of the Little Coco bore N. by E. about 5 miles when she struck on a small rock, and saw the rocks under water along side; at this time the surf on the shore of the Little Coco was not visible from the deck.

† It is sometimes called Pondicherry Passage, the French ship of that name having forced her way through it in 1750. The Admiral Pocock, Captain Cleugh, also went through it in December 1764; and Captain Heath-thorne passed through it not long ago, but it ought not to be. attempted except in a case of great necessity.

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rocky ground and overfalls on either side of that shoal. The soundings in this channel vary from 18 to 10 fathoms in the western and middle parts, increasing to 25 and 30 fathoms at the eastern entrance. The flood sets through to the eastward and the ebb to the westward, high water about 5 hours on full and change of the moon.

Dangers.

Ranger's Ledge, bears East about 3 miles from East Island, and close to it on the outside lies Jackson's Ledge, both dangerous shoals; to the S. Eastward of these about 7 miles, and nearly 3 leagues E. by S. from Cape Price, lies Union's Ledge in lat. 13° 20′ N., another dangerous shoal. Between the Andaman and these shoals, the bottom is mostly rocky with great overfalls; ships ought, therefore, to pass always outside of the shoals, in deep water, for at a small distance to the eastward of Jackson's Ledge, there are from 18 to 20 fathoms, and near Union's Ledge 30 and 40 fathoms. The edge of the bank of soundings extends only about a league outside of this ledge, rendering the approach to it dangerous in the night, or in thick weather, when the land is not visible.

Port Cornwallis.

PORT CORNWALLIS, in lat. 13° 18′ N., about 16 miles to the southward of Cape Price, is an excellent bay or harbour, extending about 2 leagues into the land in a N.Westerly direction, and in breadth about 1 league. There are in it several small islands, of which the most conspicuous is Chatham Island, about 2 miles long; it contains also several creeks and coves; high water at 4½ hours on full and change of the moon. The entrance is about ¾ mile wide, with 18 fathoms in mid-channel, formed between an islet at the North point and a reef projecting from the South point; the depths within, decrease from 12 regularly to 7 and 6 fathoms, and the lease water in the harbour is 5 fathoms.* To the northward of this harbour, near the shore, there is a group of islands surrounded by a reef; and about 4 or 5 miles to the southward, lie Ragged Islands, being four islets contiguous to the shore, with regular soundings 13 and 15 fathoms near them, and 25 to 29 fathoms, about 3 miles distance.

To approach it from the westward.

Ships coming from the westward with a fair wind, and intending to stop at Port Cornwallis, ought to keep at 4 miles distance from West Island and Landfall Island, and at least 2 miles from the North point of the latter; having steered from hence, East 9 or 10 miles, they may haul to the southward and pass outside of Ranger's, Jackson's, and Union's Ledges. In thick weather during the S.W. monsoon, it will be prudent, after making Landfall Island, and passing to the northward of it at a moderate distance, to steer East until out of soundings; or to keep in deep water on the outer verge of the bank, to round the Ledges with safety, for Union's Ledge is about 3 leagues from the shore, and not far within the edge of the bank of soundings.

Saddle Mountain.

About 3 leagues to the southward of Port Cornwallis, is situated Saddle Mountain, the sedate highest on these islands, which is discernible at 20 leagues distance; it appears in the form of a saddle when viewed either from the East or Westward, and its North peak is in lat. 13° 10′ N.

Coast to the southward

About 5 leagues to the southward of the Saddle Mountain, lies Sound Island, fronting the East entrance of Andaman Strait, called Stuart's Sound, having 70 and 80 fathoms very near it, and no soundings about a league off shore; and the whole of the East coast, from Saddle Mountain to lat. 12° 36′ N. is steep and mountainous.

* This excellent harbour being land locked on every side, and surrounded by lofty mountains covered with impenetrable forests, is very secure from all winds, and the scenery of nature is here uncommonly grand. A Colony from Bengal first settled at Port Chatham near the South end of the island in 1791, which was removed (by advice of Admiral Cornwallis) in 1793, to port Cornwallis; but the impenetrable forests being unfavorable to cultivation, with incessant rain in the S.W. monsoon, rendering the place unhealthy, the Colony was withdrawn after a few years residence on the island. The inhabitants of these islands are Negroes of small stature, very black, but strong and well shaped; they subsist chiefly on what fish they kill with darts, or shell fish procured among the rocks; but in tempestuous weather these are not always obtained, and hunger and cold sometimes deprive those miserable savages of existence.

VOL. II. E.

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Diligent Strait.

Adjacent Islands.

DILIGENT STRAIT, is formed between the East coast of Great Andaman and some contiguous islands, and a group or chain of larger islands about 3 to 5 leagues off it, extending from lat. 11° 48′ to 12° 20 N. It is 2 and 3 leagues wide, except toward the middle, it is only about 2 or 3 miles in breadth betwixt the nearest islands, where the least water found, was 8 fathoms; and from 17 to 25 fathoms in the northern part of the strait, and in the southern part from 30 to 40 fathoms. The islands which form the East side of this strait, are generally high, covered with wood, and connected together by reefs; a bank of soundings extends a few miles around them, and along the coast of Andaman Opposite, but a few leagues to the southward, this coast becomes very steep. At the north part of Diligent Strait, there are several shoals, and reefs project from some of the islands; the anchorage in the middle of it is good, with shelter from all winds. Opposite to these islands, in lat. 12° 2′ N. lies the eastern entrance of Middle Strait, which divides the Middle Island of Great Andaman from the Southern Island; and 3 or 4 miles farther South, Port Medows, a small harbour, is situated, with another bay or inlet near it.

Port Chatham.

PORT CHATHAM, in lat. 11° 41′ N. and 4 leagues from the South end of Great Andaman, extends a considerable way inland, having 13 fathoms in the entrance, near the islet fronting it, called Ross Island, and there are other islets and reefs inside. From thence to the South point, the coast is bold, with various depths on the bank of soundings lining the shore.

West coast of Great Andaman.

Bank off it.

WEST COAST of Great Andaman, has a bank with various depths, stretching along it, and extending much farther out in some parts than the soundings on the eastern coast. Nearly West from the Saddle Mountain, about 8 or 9 leagues from the West side of the island, there is an extensive part of the bank, which is very shoal, and probably dangerous; although its dimensions and true position are very imperfectly known. Captain William Richardson, states, that his chief officer ran West on it 2 leagues in soundings from 6 to 4½ fathoms he supposed that to be its breadth, and the length to extend North and South, parallel to the coast. A country ship from Masulipatam bound to Pegu, at day light, September 20th, 1792, saw the Great Andaman bearing East, and observed at noon in lat. 13° 0′ N, then distant from the island 9 or 10 leagues. From hence she steered 3 or 4 miles to the eastward with a light breeze, and at 2 P. M. coral rocks were perceived under her, covered apparently with so little water, that the rudder seemed nearly to touch them, they hauled instantly to the westward, and soon got into deep water. In May, 1795, the Company's ship Pitt, bound from Bengal to England, had the Saddle Mountain bearing East 9 or 10 leagues, and the extremes of the Great Andaman from N. E. by E. to S. E. by S., she then tacked in 14 fathoms, and had 8 fathoms coral rocks in stays. Standing to the northward with a light breeze, she had 11, 7½, 14, 16, 24, 18, 12, to 9 fathoms, in the first part of the right, then tacked and stood S.W. by S., deepening gradually till day-light. At sun-rise the mountain bore E. N. E., and the extremes of the land from N. E. by N. to S. E. by S., distant 9 or 10 leagues, then in 60 fathoms. Between the shoal bank and the coast, the soundings vary from 40 to 20 fathoms, and 15 fathoms near the land.

Port Andaman.

Interview Island

PORT ANDAMAN, situated about 14 leagues to the southward of West Island, is formed between the West entrance of Andaman Strait and a long island fronting it at a small distance, called Interview Island, that extends from lat. 12° 47′ N. to 13° 1′ N. About 5 miles off its North end, there is a small island with an extensive reef projecting from it toward the North point of the former, betwixt which and the reef, there is a passage. A reef projects from the South end of Interview Island, with 14 fathoms close to, and also within it, in the entrance of the Port; and to the northward betwixt that island and the coast, from lie several islets and rocks; other small islands are interspersed along the coast, from

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Interview Island to the N.W. end of the Andaman, with soundings near them, from 12 to 25 fathoms.

Coast from thence southward.

From Port Andaman, to the western entrance of the Middle Strait, in lat. 12° 12′ N., some islets and reefs line the shore. About 5 leagues off; in lat. 12° 30′ N., opposite to an island near the shore called Flat Island, there is a bank with 12 fathoms on it, and 30 to 40 fathoms between it and the land. In lat. 11° 56′ N. there is an inlet called Port Campbell, with some islets at the entrance, and 6 or 7 fathoms inside. About 7 leagues farther to the southward, there is a group of small islands connected by reefs, called the Labyrinth, that projects around the S.W. end of Great Andaman.

Geo site of North Centinel.

NORTH CENTINEL, about 8 leagues distant from the S.W. part of the Andaman, and bearing West from the Labyrinth, is a level island covered with trees, about 5 or 6 miles in extent North and South, and may be discerned about 6 leagues off. The shore is rocky, and two islets lie at the South end, and one at the N.W. end of the principal island. The centre of it is in lat. 11° 33′ N., lon. 92° 24′ E., or 5° 56′ West of the South end of Junkseylon, by chronometers, measured by me in 1800. Captain Clarke, of the True Briton, made it in lon. 92° 24′ E. by chronometers, measured from Madras observatory in 1801, and Captain P. Heywood, in 1802, made it also in 92° 24′ East by chronometers and lunar observations. There is said to be fresh water upon this island. The bank of soundings extends from the West coast of the Andaman a little beyond the North Centinel, with various depths on it from 20 or 30, to 50 fathoms, the bottom sand and coral toward the shore; but in 40 and 50 fathoms it is generally ouze.

South Centinel.

SOUTH, or LITTLE CENTINEL, in lat. 11° 0′ N., bearing from the former about S. ½ E. distant 11 leagues, and 7 or 8 leagues distant from the N.W. part of Little Andaman, is a small woody island about a mile in extent East and West, that may be seen about 6 leagues. From each end of it coral reefs project about two cables lengths, on which the sea breaks high in the S.W. monsoon. Abreast of the East end of the island, about ¼ mile off, we had no ground 40 fathoms, but about half way between it and the N.W. part of the Little Andaman, there is ground, 45 and 50 fathoms, decreasing to 13 and-10 fathoms within 1 or 2 miles off that shore.

Rutland Islands contiguous islands and coast.

RUTLAND ISLAND, near 3 leagues in length, 2 in breadth, and of considerable height, is separated from the South end of Great Andaman by a narrow strait, called Mac-Pherson's Strait, although formerly considered as part of that island. This strait is scarcely 1/3 of a mile wide at the North point of Rutland Island, having 10 and 12 fathoms at the West entrance, and generally from 16 to 19 fathoms all the way through.

At a small distance from the West point of Rutland Island, there are two small islands called the Twins, with a reef projecting from them a. little way to the West and Southward, near to which, the depths vary from 12 to 22 fathoms; and off the S. E. point of the same island, there is a group called the Five Islands, and in some charts, Angue Islands, which are moderately elevated. Between the point of Rutland Island and the nearest of these, distant from it about a mile, there is a safe passage with deep water in it, 45 to 60 fathoms. Along the South side of the island, there are regular soundings, of 13 to 18 fathoms about 2 or 3 miles off; but nearly 2 leagues to the westward of the South point, and the same distance S. Westward from the Twins, there is a bank of coral rocks with 7 fathoms on it, and probably less water. The South end of Rutland Island is in about lat. 11° 24′ N. Var. 1° 10′ East, off it in 1791.

Duncan's Passage.

DUNCAN'S PASSAGE, formed by the islands, which extend from the Five Islands off

E 2

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Small one.

Geo. Site of the Sisters.

Brothers.

the S. E. point of Rutland Island to the north end of Little Andaman, is very safe and commodious.

The northern or small passage, through which Captain P. Duncan returned from Manilla, in January, 1760, is formed on the north side by the Five Islands, and on the south side by Passage Island and the Sisters, being 3 or 4 miles wide, with soundings from 25 to 14 fathoms. The southern extremity of the Five Islands is in lat. 11° 17′ N., from which projects a reef to a small distance around these islands. Passage Island, of middling height, lies to the S. S. Westward 4 or 5 miles from these, and the Sisters about 7 or 8 miles to the S. S. Eastward. The latter are two small islands near each other; the southernmost in lat. 11° 10′ N., lon. 92° 58′ E., is sometimes from its shape, called Round Island. In coming from the west toward the Great Passage, the Sisters are on with each other until they bear N. 20° E., then they begin to open, and the North Brother is on the same transit line bearing from them S. 20° W., distant 11 miles, or in lat. 10° 59½′ N. The Brothers are two small islands, when in one bearing S. 36° W., separated about 2 or 3 miles, and distant from the N. E. part of the Little Andaman from 4 or 5, to 8 miles; they are not so high as the other islands, the trees on the southernmost are ragged, but on the North Brother they are perfectly level, which on this account is sometimes called Flat Island.

Great Passage; with directions.

The Great Passage, through which Captain Duncan went, in his passage to Manila, formed between the South or Round Sister and the North or Flat Brother, is about 10 or 11 miles wide, and very safe by day or night, if not too dark to see the land when near it; there being no danger, unless a reef projecting about ½ a mile from the north end of Flat Island be considered one, which by the water breaking on it, is always visible. If it be too dark, a ship may anchor in 12 to 17 fathoms sandy bottom in the channel, for the depths are generally from 12 to 20 fathoms sandy bottom, on the bank extending between Rutland Island and the north end of Little Andaman. This bank projects only a few miles to the eastward of the Brothers and Sisters, and 4 or 5 leagues to the westward of them, where it shelves suddenly to no ground, forming a deep concavity between the Centinels; for it takes a sharp bend from the north part of Little Andaman to the westward, and from Rutland Island it stretches out round the Great Centinel, joining the bank on the west side of the Great Andaman.

As reefs project from each of the Brothers, the space between them probably affords no safe passage for a large ship; but between the South Brother and the N. E. end of the Little Andaman, there is a passage with 6, 8, and 10 fathoms in it, through which H. M. sloop, Ariel, went in 1790. It is about a mile in breadth, bounded by reefs projecting from the South Brother and Andaman, and being narrow, it should not be entered except from necessity:—the passage to the northward of the Brothers, ought always to be chosen in preference.

In light breezes and fine weather, a kind of tides set through the channels among these islands to the east and westward, but at times currents prevail, which are generally governed by the wind. In the N. E. monsoon, on both sides of the islands, the current sets mostly to the S.W. or southward; a ship running for Duncan's Passage, should therefore, endeavour to keep a little to the northward in this season, and to the southward in the opposite monsoon, according to the prevailing wind, that she may preserve a leading breeze to pass through the channel.

Geo. site of Little Andaman.

LITTLE ANDAMAN, extends from lat. 10° 53′ N., to the S. E. point in lat. 10° 26′ N., being 9 leagues in length north and south, and about 5 leagues in breadth at the middle of the island; the south-east point is in lon. 92° 40′ E., or 16 miles east from the North Centinel by chronometer. This island has an even appearance, a little convex, sloping from the centre toward the sea all round, and may be seen 6½ or 7 leagues from the deck of a large ship. Like all the other islands, it is well clothed with trees, and two small runs of water

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fall into the sea, one at the north end, the other in a small bay at the N.W. part.* The soundings along the east and west sides of the island, are mostly from 10 to 18 fathoms about 1 or 2 miles off, deepening about 5 or 6 miles off to 50 or 55 fathoms, then no ground; the south side is more steep, there being no ground about 3 or 4 miles off shore, and 38 or 40 fathoms within 1 or 2 miles of it, a little to the eastward of the S.W. point of the island. From this point S. 79° W., 5 or 6 miles distant, there is a bank of coral rocks with 7 or 8 fathoms on it, or probably less water; which may be avoided by keeping farther out, or between it and the S.W. point of the island, in a good channel, having 13 and 14 fathoms near the sandy point, and deepening to 20 or 25 fathoms toward the coral bank.

Invisible Bank.

INVISIBLE BANK, named so by Captain Blair, as the water did not seem discoloured upon it, lies east from Duncan's Passage, distant from the Sisters 14 or 15 leagues, extending north and south about 10 leagues, or from lat. 10° 56′ to 11° 27′ N., and is nearly from 2 to 3 leagues in breadth. The soundings on this bank vary from 17 or 18, to 40 or 50 fathoms near its outer edges, where in deep water the ground is sometimes ouze or sand, but well in upon the bank, frequently foul and rocky, particularly near the dangerous rock now to be described.

Geo. Site of Flat Rock.

Directions to avoid it.

FLAT ROCK, in lat. 11° 8′ N., about lon. 93° 40′ E., † bearing nearly east from the Sisters in Duncan's Passage, distant 14 leagues, is very dangerous, being only 8 or 10 feet above water, of circular form, about 30 yards in diameter, with rocky foul ground stretching out from it about twice its length, on which the sea breaks in bad weather. This dangerous rock being situated upon the Invisible Bank, a little to the southward of its centre, the lead if kept going will denote the near approach to it, for soundings extend from it all round to a small distance, but farthest to the north, and southward. At a small distance from the rock, the depths are from 13 to 20 fathoms, coral and sand, increasing in standing from it all round to 30 or 40 fathoms toward the edge of the bank; but as the soundings are not always regular, it would be dangerous to approach the rock in the night or in thick weather; for at such times, when a ship is in the vicinity of the bank, the lead should be kept briskly going, and if soundings are obtained, she ought to tack or haul out immediately into deep water. The Flat Rock being directly opposite to Duncan's Passage, is much in the way of ships from Mergui proceeding by that passage in the N. E. monsoon, but with common attention it may always be avoided.

Geo. Site of Barren Island.

BARREN ISLAND, in lat. 12° 15½′ to 12° 17′ N., lon: 93° 54′ E., or 4° 24′ West from the south end of Junkseylon by chronometers, measured by me in 1803; and in 93° 54′ East, by Captain Hall's chronometers, in the Worcester, in 1795, is high, of an even appearance when viewed at a considerable distance, and may be seen from 12 to 13 leagues from the deck. It is of small extent, covered with trees, except near the crater of the volcano. ‡

* Like the Great Andaman, it is thinly inhabited, the natives depending chiefly on what fish they can procure for subsistence. The inhabitants of these islands were long considered as cannibals, but it is now known, that if ever they deserved such appellation, it arose probably from excessive hunger, and not from choice. It is however, prudent, for boats lauding at these islands to be on their guard, for a few years back, the boat of an American ship in landing on the Great Andaman was assailed by a shower of darts from the natives in ambush behind the bushes, who rushed out and endeavoured to hold fast the boat. After firing some musket shots at them, they fled, but several of the sailors were wounded by the darts, one gentleman who went in the boat for amusement, very severely between the ribs.

† Capt. W. Owen, in H. M. sloop, Seaflower, made the breakers on the Flat Rock in lat. 11° 17′ N., lon. 93° 29′ E. and some other navigators, place it nearly in this longitude.

‡ It was not generally known that Barren Island was in an igneous state until 1791, when we passed close to it in the King George, and perceived the crater of the volcano, with a quantity of very white smoke close to it. Since that time it has continued in the igneous state, subject to violent eruptions in the S. W. monsoon, or rainy season. In November, 1803, the volcano was observed to explode regularly every 10 minutes, projecting each time a column of black smoke perpendicularly to a great height; and in the night, a fire of considerable size continued to burn on the east side of the crater, which was then exposed to our view. The crater is large, nearly in the middle, or rather toward the north side of the island, and only seen from that side; close to it on the west side there is a small hill, but the contour of the island seems not to have altered in 25 years, although the volcano has been subject to great explosions, and the crater is of great dimensions when compared with the extent of the island. The Thetis made Barren Island in lon. 93° 53′ E., and the Morning ton made it in 93° 54′ E. by chronometer from Prince of Wales Island.

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Captain Almes, who landed on it in 1801, found no soundings within 10 yards of the shore; firewood could be got with difficulty, but he saw no runs of water.

With Barren Island bearing N. N.W. 5 or, 6 leagues, there is said to be a bank, where Captain Sharrington, in the Bahar, saw the rocks along-side, and had 4 fathoms water. This account is rendered doubtful, for no signs of a shoal-bank in the situation described, have been discovered for many years.

Geo. Site of Narcondam.

NARCONDAM, in lat. 13° 24′ N., lon. 94° 12′ E.,* bears about N. 14° East, from Barren Island, distant 70 miles, by observations taken when passing between them; Captain Hall, made it in lon. 94° 11′ E., by chronometers, and it is about 22 leagues distant from the nearest part of the Great Andaman. When in 21 fathoms close to Jackson's Ledge, off Landfall Island, Narcondam was in sight from our mizen shrouds; and on the same day, when the observed lat. at noon was 12° 55′ N., the Andaman seen from the deck, bore from W. by S. ½ S. to W. N.W., Gap of Saddle Mountain W. by N. ½ N., Narcondam N. E. ¼ N., and Barren Island not much elevated above the horizon S. by E. ½ E. Narcondam may be seen about 14 or 15 leagues from the deck, being higher than Barren Island, and appears in the form of a cone or pyramid with its summit broken off. Close to it on the east side there is an islet or rock, and another at the south point; but it is bold and safe to approach all round, and, like Barren Island, of small extent.

NICOBAR ISLANDS, with SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Nicobar Islands.

THE CHAIN, or Archipelago, called Nicobars, and by the Malays, Sambilangs, (Nine Islands) extends N. N.W. ¼ W. and S. S. E. ¼ E., about 53 leagues, having several safe channels among them: eight or nine of them are of considerable size, the others, nine or ten in number, generally small.

Geo. Site of Car-Nicobar.

CAR-NICOBAR, the northernmost of these islands, bears from the S. E. point of the Little Andaman about S. by E., distant 80 miles, its centre being in lat. 9° 10′ N., lon, 92° 56′ E., or 12° 34′ E. by chronometers from Madras. It is about 6 miles in length North and South, and 5 in breadth, very little elevated above the sea, except at the west side, and near the S. E. point, there are small risings. The middle of the island is covered with long rich grass, where multitudes of hogs are bred; near the coast there are fruit trees of various kinds, particularly, orange, citron, lemon, and lime trees; plantains, yams, and sweet potatoes may be also procured, but cocoa-nuts are in the greatest abundance, on which all the animals are fed, there being no sort of grain. Ships from the Coromandel Coast, stop here at times, to load with cocoa-nuts, which they receive in barter for coarse blue cloth, or other piece goods; and with the cargo procured here, they proceed to Rangoon, where they receive for it in exchange, a cargo of plank for ship building.

* Capt. Corry, of the Royal Navy, made it in lon. 94° 20 ½ E. or 6° 1 ½′ West of the Fort of Prince of Wales Island.

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The inhabitants of this island are usually hospitable to strangers, and inoffensive to each other; they live in small villages near the sea on the different sides of the island, for the conveniency of carrying their cocoa-nuts to ships. A ship having a scorbutic crew, may touch here for a supply of hogs, or other necessary refreshments, and she may anchor on either side of the island in from 12 to 30 fathoms, near some of the villages; but soundings do not extend far out, the bank being steep, and the bottom mostly sand, or sand and coral, makes the anchorage indifferent. The most eligible place to anchor at, is in a bay at the N. W. end of the island in 10 or 12 fathoms, abreast of the watering place and village. The Minerva, in January, 1803, anchored in 8 fathoms, about ½ a mile off shore, with the village on the west side of the island bearing east, and procured a few hogs. The same ship returning from Bengal, anchored April 13th, 1803, in 11 fathoms, with the extremes of the island from N. E. by N. to S.W. and a village S. by E. 1 mile, where she remained three days during calms and light airs, filling up her water.*

The City of London, November 15th, 1800, anchored at 10 P. M. in 15 fathoms, and at day-light the extremes of the island bore from E. ½ N. to S.W. ½ S., the hill South, off shore about 2 miles. She filled up with good water, procured some fresh provisions, cocoa-nuts, limes, &c. for her scorbutic and sick people, and sailed on the 18th.

The Ganges anchored November 9th, 1805, in 15 fathoms, at the N. E. part of the island, bearing from West to S. by E. ½ E., and a village S.W. ½ S., off shore 1 ½ mile; here she remained two days procuring about 15 butts of water, the wells being nearly dry, and the surf rendering it difficult to get the casks from the shore; so the other side of the island seems preferable, when the season will permit a ship to anchor there.

The channel betwixt this island and the Little Andaman, generally called the Ten Degrees Channel, is spacious, and clear from danger.

Batty Malve.

BATTY MALVE, in lat. 8° 46 ½′ N., bearing from the south end of Car-Nicobar about S. by E. ¼ E., distant 7 leagues, is about 1 ½ mile length East and West, and half that breadth. It is destitute of water or inhabitants, being composed of an entire rock, covered with a thin stratum of soil, which gives root to some shrubs and scraggy trees. At the west end, it is of moderate height, sloping in the form of a wedge to the eastward, and has, therefore, been sometimes called the Quoin. At the S.W. end, about a mile distant, there are soundings from 25 to 35 fathoms, and 40 fathoms about ½ a mile off the west end of the island.

Chowry.

CHOWRY, in lat. 8° 28 ½′ N., bearing S. 32° East from Batty Malve, distant about 7 leagues, is of square form, scarcely 14 mile in extent. The S. E. angle consists of a large rock rising perpendicularly from the sea to a considerable height above the tops of the trees that grow on the island, which excepting this rock, is low and level, and not elevated more than 6 or 8 feet above the surface of the sea.

Contiguous to the shore, cocoa-nut trees abound, and the whole of the level part of the island is a continued orchard of tropical fruit trees, oranges, citron, limes, &c. The natives rear also hogs and poultry, and like those on Car-Nicobar, are generally friendly to such ships as stop at the island:—cocoa-nuts may also be procured here for the Pegu market. Soundings project out 1 or 2 miles from the shore, particularly off the S.W. end of the island, ships may

* Capt. Hay, of the Inglis, who touched here for refreshments, January 28th, 1813, advises not to round the N.W. point of the island too close, as he got into broken water, at 1 ½ mile distant from it; and that a large ship ought not to come under 12 or 14 fathoms, as he did for the convenience of getting refreshments quick on board, having anchored abreast of the village in 9 ½ fathoms 1 mile distant, the North point N. E. ½ N., South point W. by S.; with:30 fathoms of cable out, a rock was seen under the ship, having only 7 ½ fathoms water on it. A ship ought to anchor about half way between the N.W. point and the village, in 12 or 14 fathoms sand, but on no account borrow so near the village as did the Inglis,

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anchor in 15 to 25 fathoms. On the N. E. side there is a village, with anchorage abreast, in 20 or 30 fathoms, sandy bottom.

Terressa;

Geo. Site.

TERRESSA, extending N.W. and S. E., between lat. 8° 12′ and 8° 22′ N., is about 4 leagues in length, and 5 miles broad at the N.W. end, but scarcely half so much at the S.E. end; the North end bears from the nearest part of Chowry S. S. E. ½ E., distant 6 miles. Terressa, when viewed at a considerable distance, appears like two islands, the land toward each end, particularly the North part, being much higher than in the middle. Its animal and vegetable productions are the same as on Car-Nicobar, but it is less populous. There is anchorage both on the East and West sides of the island; on the West side, the depths are from 30 to 40 fathoms within ¼ or ½ mile of the shore; at the South point, where a reef projects out into the sea, it is not so steep, for a ship may anchor in 30 fathoms coarse sand, near the S. E. point of the island, This point I made in lon. 93° 20′ East, or 12° 58′ East from Madras, by chronometers.

Bompoka.

BOMPOKA, separated from the S. E. end of Terressa by a channel about 2 miles wide, is a small island, formed of a mountain partly covered with wood. Its summit is a sharp ridge, extending North and South about half the length of the island, from which the declivity on all sides is regular to the water's edge. This island it noted for its women being more fair, and more handsome, than any of the Nicobarians. In the channel betwixt it and Terressa there is said to be safe anchorage, particularly inside, in 15 or 20 fathoms under Bompoka.

Katchall.

Geo. Site.

KATCHALL, or Tillongchool, situated to the S. Eastward of the south end of Terressa and Bompoka, and separated from them by a fine safe channel about 5 ½ leagues wide, is of triangular form, each side being about 3 leagues in extent. The north and west sides are moderately elevated, of level appearance, but toward the middle, and S. E. part of the island, the land is higher, and may be discerned about 8 leagues. It is covered with wood, and along the N.W. side there is anchorage in 15 to 25 fathoms coarse sand, from 1 to 2 miles off shore, but the N. E. side is steep, having no ground 100 fathoms about ½ a mile from it. The west end of Katchall is in about lat. 7° 54′ N., lon. 93° 29′ East, or 13° 7′ East from Madras by chronometers, measured by me in 1798; and Capt. C. C. M'Intosh made it 13° 6′ East from Madras by chronometers, in 1797.

Ships may pass at discretion, through any of the channels between Car-Nicobar and Katchall, being all very safe. Steering, in the Anna, for the Sombreiro Channel in August, we were horsed to the northward by a current, and saw Katchall bearing E. S. E.; then bore away to the northward of it, and Camorta, and passed between the latter and Tillangchong, through an excellent channel.

Geo. Site of Noncowry Harbour.

NONCOWRY HARBOUR, in lat. 8° 0′ N., lon. 93° 41′ E., distant from the east side of Katchall 4 or 5 miles, formed by a narrow channel that separates the island Noncowry from the south part of the island Camorta, is very capacious, and will shelter a large fleet of ships from all winds. Having an entrance at each end, one to the eastward, another to the westward, with soundings close to them, where ships may anchor occasionally, makes it very convenient; and they may enter or depart from it in every month in the year. The western entrance about 1/8 of a mile, or 100 fathoms wide, is formed between two steep points of high land, and the depths in it are generally from 27 to 35 fathoms: outside of it, a sand-bank with irregular soundings from 6 to 12 fathoms, and patches of rocky bottom, project a little way from the S.W. point of Camorta. The eastern entrance is very little wider than the former, being contracted by rocky banks which line the shore on each side, having 12 and 14 fathoms close to them, and from 18 to 20 fathoms in mid-channel. Outside of this narrow

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part of the entrance, there is less water in the outer part, betwixt the south end of the island Trincutte and the N. E. end of Noncowry; but in. mid-channel, never less than 6 fathoms, and generally 5 or 6 fathoms, close to the rocky banks that bound it on each side.

The tide runs strong with eddies through the western entrance in the springs, but it is safe with a steady fair wind, particularly when departing from the harbour. The eastern entrance is preferable for going in, being rather wider, with less, water; and there is safe anchorage outside of the narrow part, in the space betwixt Trincutte and the East side of Camorta, which is called False Harbour, having various depths, from 6 to 10 fathoms, but it becomes very shoal to the northward.

The harbour is separated into two parts by two points of land facing each other; the easternmost, called Cross Harbour, from its form, is smallest, and contains several shelves of rock in the southern arm of it, with 5 or 6 fathoms close to them; here ships might be hove down to their own guns, the water being perfectly smooth in all kinds of weather. The western or largest part of the harbour is a great bason, of an oblong square form, about 2 miles long and 1 in breadth, with a cove on the West side, and another at the South end. In the N.W. part there is a rocky bank, with 5 and 6 fathoms water on it, but the depths throughout the harbour are generally 10 or 12 fathoms near the shore, and 18 or 20 fathoms in the middle, except near the western entrance there are from 27 to 34 fathoms. The bottom is all soft, good holding ground. The flood sets through the harbour to the eastward, but with very little velocity inside; high water at 9 ½ hours, on full and change of the moon, and the tide rises 8 or 9 feet. Var. 1° 30′ East, in 1791.

Direction.

Ships going in or out by either entrance, should endeavour to keep in mid-channel between the Points, with people on the fore, or fore-topsail yard, to look out for the edges of the rocky banks that line the shores.

A few Danish, or Moravian Missionaries, were settled here many years, for the purpose of converting the natives to Christianity; the village at Cross Harbour, where they resided, was called by them, Herman. There is little to be got here, the land being hilly and not cultivated, although on the North side of the harbour the soil is good, and will admit of cultivation. Water is got in wells, although it is rather scarce in the dry season. The Bellona and Isabella went into the harbour, in November, 1795, and could only procure a small supply of water, a few hogs, and one or two bullocks; although the Danish Chief gave them Lis assistance. The natives will barter what refreshments they have for tobacco, in preference to cash, and shag from Java, they are very fond of.

Noncowry Island.

NONCOWRY, which gives name to the harbour, and bounds it on the South side, is Noneowry about 4 miles in extent, of triangular form, rugged and uneven, almost covered with wood. It abounds with lime stone, is thinly inhabited, and little can be procured from it excepting timber, and some hogs.

The harbour is considered unhealthy, by the noxious vapours arising from the impervious forests, and impregnating the surrounding atmosphere. The largest of the Nicobar Islands, are in general, from the same cause, liable to the same disadvantage; and the fever that prevails, called the Nicobar fever, (or jungle fever of the continent) frequently proves fatal to Europeans who remain at these islands.

Camorta.

CAMORTA, or Car-Morta, on the north side of the harbour, is about 16 miles in length North and South, extending to lat. 8° 15′ N., and from 2 to 5 miles broad. The north end, mud middle of this island, are flat and not much elevated, but about the harbour it is high, particularly on the west side, where stands the principal village at the foot of a perpendicular ridge. There is said to be several sorts of poon trees fit for masts, which grow on the island; and there are several places of pasturage, with a rich soil, producing yams, pine apples, plantains, guavas; and sugar-canes are said to grow without cultivation, notwithstanding, it is

VOL. II.F

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thinly inhabited. About 3 miles from the S.W. point, lies the mouth of a lagoon, which extends into the island a great way. Along the West side, there are soundings near the shore, and from the N.W. point, projects a reef of rocks, with shoal water about 3 miles off.

Trincutte.

TRINCUTTE, a low, level island, covered with beetle-nut and cocoa-nut trees, about 2 leagues in length, near to, and fronting the East side of Camorta, is separated from it by a narrow space; which excepting the southern part, is shoal, and forms the first large opening in entering Noncowry Harbour from the eastward. There are soundings along the East side of this island at a small distance from it, 15 to 20 fathoms, and good anchorage in 8 or 9 fathoms at the North end, between it and the N. E. part of Camorta.

Tillangchong.

TILLANGCHONG, including the small islands adjoining to its South end, extends from lat. 8° 22′ to 8° 33′ N., being 2 or 3 miles in breadth, and lies to the N. N. E. of Camorta, 3 or 4 leagues distant. It is a high, oblong, rugged mountain, that may be seen 12 leagues off, in many parts covered with trees, and inhabited only by such persons as have been banished from the other islands. The East side of the island is steep, but close to the islets and rocks that line its western shore, and near those chained to its South end, the depths are from 36 to 42 fathoms. Betwixt the latter and the North end of Camorta, the channel is 3 leagues wide and very safe, with a bank of soundings stretching from the islets off Tillangthong to the Islands Camorta and Trincutte, on which there are 42 and 45 fathoms near the former, from 40 to 65 fathoms in mid-channel, and 18 or 20 fathoms near to Camorta.

Sombreiro Channel.

Geo. Site of Meroe.

With direction.

SOMBREIRO CHANNEL, bounded on the North side by the Islands Katchall and Noncowry, and by Meroe or Passage Island on the South side, is very safe, and about 7 leagues wide. Meroe is a low small island, about 3 leagues to the N.W. of the Little Nicobar, and bears from the S. E. point of Katchall S. 13° E., distant 7 ½ leagues, being situated in lat. 7° 29′ N., lon. 93° 46′ E., or 13° 24′ East from Madras by chronometers. About 3 leagues South from the S. E. end of Katchall, there is a coral bank with various depths; the least water found on it has been 9 and 10 fathoms, but both to the northward and southward of it, there is no ground in the channel. Ships steering for it, if not certain of their latitude, should endeavour to fall in with the land on the windward side, according to the prevailing monsoon; and they may pass through without hesitation, by night as well as by day, if the weather is not too dark at the time.

About 4 miles E. by S. from Meroe, and nearly the same distance from the North end of the Little Nicobar, there is a small island, called Track, and another close to it on the East side, called Trice, which are surrounded by rocks. Betwixt them and Meroe, the passage is safe, said to have soundings from 12 to 20 fathoms; but the Prince Regent, sailed through this passage, August 8th, 1820, at half past 5 A. M., and had no soundings with 30 fathoms line. Betwixt these small islands and the Nicobar, there is said to be a narrow and critical passage, with soundings from 7 to 12 fathoms, which should never be attempted.

The two large islands to the southward of the Sombreiro Channel, are sometimes called the Great and Little Sambilangs, but generally the Great and Little Nicobars; the former being the largest and southernmost of all the islands which form this chain.

Little Nicobar.

LITTLE NICOBAR, extends nearly N. E. and S.W. from lat. 7° 13′ to 7° 26′ N., being about 4 leagues in length, and half that breadth; it is moderately elevated and hilly, covered with wood, and steep to seaward; but there are soundings all round, near the shore. On the N.W. side, a little to the westward of an island adjoining the shore, there is said to be anchorage off a small bay, where there is a run of water; but although this island and the Great Nicobar are said to have many inhabitants, they are more imperfectly known than the other islands; the natives being shy of strangers, seldom or never venture on board of ships

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passing. They are, however, thought to be inoffensive, and have sometimes treated with lenity, the people belonging to vessels that had the misfortune to be shipwrecked there.

St. George's channel.

Directions.

ST. GEORGE'S CHANNEL, formed between the Great and Little Nicobar, is from 3 to 6 miles wide, and extending E. N. E. and W. S.W., about 5 or 6 leagues in length, with deep water in it, except near the western entrance. The bottom in general is foul, with strong tides or currents running in eddies through this channel; therefore, of late years, few ships have passed through it, unless accidently carried into it by an unexpected current. A little inside of the western entrance, the Island Condul is situated, nearest to the southern shore, and between them there is no safe passage. From the North end of the same island a reef projects considerably, betwixt which and the northern shore, is the proper channel, and ships that intend to proceed through, should keep nearest to the North side, or Little Nicobar shore, where there is said to be soundings, but none in mid-channel. The rocky bottom, deep water, and strong eddies, will however, always make it imprudent to anchor, except to the westward of Condul Island, where the depths are moderate. On the South side of the eastern entrance, off the N. E. end of Great Nicobar, is situated the small island Cabra, of middling height; and on the North side, the Island Monthoule, near the East end of Little Nicobar. The entrance into the channel, is between these two small islands.

The current.

THE CURRENT sometimes sets strong to leeward for several days together, through the various channels between the South end of the Little Andaman and the southernmost Nico-bars, according to the strength of the prevailing monsoon; but at times it slacks, or sets to windward, particularly when the winds are light and variable. Under lee of the different islands, there is frequently a kind of tides prevailing, when the current is setting strong to leeward through the channels between them.

Great Nicobar.

Geo. Site.

GREAT NICOBAR, extends N. by W. and S. by E., about 10 leagues in length, and 4 or 5 leagues broad at the North part and middle of the island, where the land is high, and may be discerned 11 or 12 leagues off. The South part becomes narrow, projecting out into a low level point about 1 ½ or 2 miles broad, covered with trees, and having a sandy beach facing the sea. This point is in lat. 6° 45′ N., lon. 94° 0′ E., or 10° 34 ½′ West from Pulo Aor by two chronometers exactly agreeing. By three chronometers agreeing to ½ a mile, I made it 21° 1′ East from Bombay Castle, and Captain McIntosh made it 21° 4′ East from the same, by good chronometers; the mean 21° 2 ½′ East, will place it in lon. 94° 0′ 10″ E., allowing Bombay Castle in 72° 57′ 40″ East of Greenwich, as described in Vol. First of this work.

Captain P. Heywood, in 1804, made the South Point of the Great Nicobar in lon. 94° 0 ½′ E., by chronometers from Madras, allowing the latter to be in lon. 80° 21 ½′ E., and he made it in 94° 2′ E., by lunar observations.

The highest part of this island is in lat. 7° 8′ N., and in general, the whole of it is covered with trees. Soundings from 17 to 24 fathoms extend along the West coast, about 2 and 3 miles off shore; from the S.W. side, the bank projects out about 2 leagues, or more, the depths on it being from 25 to 30 fathoms about 5 or 6 miles from the shore. From the South point a reef projects a considerable way into the sea, and lines the shore on the West side, with soundings near it of moderate depths, over a bottom of coarse sand and shells; the S. E. side of the point is thought to be more steep, although it seems probable, that soundings extend along the East side of the island, near the shore, which part is generally avoided by ships.

F 2

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WEST COAST of SUMATRA.

1st. ACHEN, AND THE CIRCUMJACENT ISLANDS; SAILING DIRECTIONS, WINDS, AND CURRENTS.

As the GREAT ENTRANCE leading to MALACCA STRAIT from the westward, is formed between the South end of the Great Nicobar and Pulo Rondo, (the northernmost of the Islands off Achen) it seems expedient to endeavour to approximate their true situations; for they are often seen by ships approaching the Strait, or used as stations of departure in sailing from it, when bound to the westward.

Geo. Site of Pulo Rondo.

PULO* RONDO, is in lat. 6° 4 ½′ N., lon. 95° 14′ E., or 3° 47′ West from Pulo Pera, measured by me twice, by good chronometers. Captain P. Heywood, made it 14° 52′ East of Madras by chronometers, † which places it in lon. 95° 14′ E., and he made it 5° 9′ West from the fort of Prince of Wales' Island, which would place it in lon. 95° 13′ East.

From the South end of Great Nicobar it bears S. 61° E., distant 84 miles, and being a high perpendicular rock of round form, may be seen 8 leagues from the deck of a large ship. On the North side it is steep without soundings, which is the case all round; but to the southward, distant from it about 2 miles or more, there is a ledge of rocks above water, betwixt which and the N.W. end of Pulo Way, there is a safe channel about 3 or 3½ leagues wide.

Pulo Way,

PULO WAY, the largest of the Achen Islands, distant about 4 leagues to the S. Eastward of Pulo Rondo, extends in the same direction about 3 leagues in length. Being high and uneven, it may be seen 12 leagues; and along the South side of it, in some parts, there are soundings near the shore.

Malacca Passage.

MALACCA PASSAGE, formed between Pulo Way and the Sumatra coast, is about 3 leagues broad, having in it the small Island Malora, or Pulo Buroo, nearly 1/3 channel over from the Sumatra shore. The passage on either side of this island is very safe, but between it and Pulo Way the water is deep; whereas, that inside, has moderate depths for anchoring occasionally, 14 to 16 fathoms near Pulo Malora, and 9 or 10 fathoms near the Sumatra shore, which in passing Point Pedro must not be approached under 10 fathoms. Captain Bradshaw, says, that the passage between Pulo Malora and the main is only about 1 ½ mile wide, and he recommends, in working through, in the night, to keep the lead going quick, standing to 10 fathoms and not under this depth, towards Point Pedro: the water deepens very quick from 12 to 17 fathoms in standing toward Malora, then from 12 to 8 fathoms within ½ a mile of it, which ought not to be approached nearer, as a reef projects from the East side of it a large ¼ mile. This is the best passage to approach Achen, in coining from the N. E. or Eastward.

Geo. Site of Pulo Brasse; islets adjoing.

PULO BRASSE, and PULO NANCY, are high, and they are the principal islands of the group contiguous to Achen Head. Pulo Brasse fronts the sea to the N.W., and is very high, of an even aspect, the North end being in lat. 5° 46′ N., lon. 95° 6′ E., bearing from Pulo Rondo about S. S.W. distant nearly 7 leagues. Off the North end of it there are four rocky islets, the northernmost of which is about 3 or 3 ½ miles distant, and is about 25 feet

* Pulo, or Pooloo, signifies an Island in the Malay language.

† The Princess Amelia, in 1811, made it 14° 51′ East of Madras by chronometers.

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above water, with regular soundings near it, 25 to 28 fathoms mud, from 1 to 2 miles to the eastward and northward, but a reef projects from the North end of Pulo Brasse toward the other islets. The outer islet is bold to approach on the East, North, and West sides; and there is a safe passage between it and the next islet, but a reef surrounds the latter to the distance of a cable's length, upon which the sea breaks high in moderate breezes.

Along the East side of Pulo Brasse, there are 20 or 25 fathoms sandy bottom, at a moderate distance from the shore, where ships may occasionally anchor; and with the outer islet bearing S. ¾ W. distant 2 miles there are 23 fathoms.

Bengal Passage.

BENGAL PASSAGE, formed between Pulo Brasse and Pulo Way, is about 4 leagues wide, and very convenient for ships sailing from Achen to the northward, as the current generally sets out, in that direction. Ships bound into Achen Road, seldom proceed through this passage, unless with a steady commanding breeze: there being no anchorage in it except near Pulo Brasse, the Malacca passage is thought preferable; ships coming from the S.Westward, generally to save time, adopt the Surat passage, but the Bengal passage is favorable for ships bound out from Achen Road to the westward, as the current in the S.W. monsoon sets round Pulo Brasse to the westward from 25 to 40 miles in 24 hours.

Pulo Nancy.

PULO NANCY, nearly joins to the S. E. point of Pulo Brasse, but between them on the West side, there is Middle Island of considerable size, with some islets or rocks near it on the South side. Very near the West point of Pulo Nancy there is a reef of rocks, which bounds the West end of Cedar passage on the North side, having 10 and 12 fathoms close to it outside, and 14 fathoms betwixt it and the point of Pulo Nancy, although it lies near the point.

Cedar Passage.

CEDAR, or SEDRE PASSAGE, formed between Pulo Nancy to the northward, and Stony Island and Pulo Gomez to the southward, is little frequented, although wider than Passage. the Surat Passage, and safer than generally supposed, there being soundings in it from 17 to 20 fathoms in mid-channel, The only dangers are at the West entrance, rocks projecting out from Pulo Gomez to the westward, on which the sea breaks high in bad weather, and the rocks on the North side, close to the West point of Pulo Nancy already mentioned; there is also a reef that projects from the West end of Stony Island to the N. Westward a considerable way into the channel. If a ship proceed through this passage, it will be prudent to keep a boat a-head, sounding occasionally.

On the South side of Pulo Nancy, about a large mile inside of the West point, there is good anchorage in 6 or 7 to 10 fathoms in a small bay; on the West side of which, fresh water may be procured, and plenty of firewood. The narrowest part of the passage, is betwixt the reef projecting from the West end of Stony Island and the shore of Pulo Nancy, and there, it is about a mile broad. Between that reef and the N. E. end of Pulo Gomez, there are 14 and 16 fathoms in a channel of communication from Cedar Passage into the Surat Passage. Stony Island and Pulo Chinchin, are steep on the North sides, having from 11 to 14 fathoms close to them: from the East point of Pulo Nancy, rocks project a little way, and close to them there are 15 fathoms water.

Surat Passage and contiguous land.

SURAT PASSAGE, is separated on the North side from Cedar Passage, by Pulo Gomez, Stony Island and Pulo Chinchin, which extend in the line of the passages, and the two latter are chained together by rocks. On the South side, it is bounded by KING'S POINT, the western extremity of the land generally called Achen Head, situated in lat. 5° 36′ N., and very little to the eastward of Pulo Rondo; it, is a high bluff headland, and forms the N. Western extremity of Sumatra. In approaching it from the S.W., no opening is perceived, the contiguous islands, Gomez, Nancy, and Brasse, appearing to join the mainland, when

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seen from that direction. To the southward of King's Point at 5 miles distance, on the South side of a low green point, there is a sandy bay, which at a considerable distance may be mistaken for the Surat Passage or a strait, the land there, being low near the sea, and covered with trees. In this bay there is a rocky islet, and at its South point, two rocks above water on which the sea breaks, with 12 and 14 fathoms near them, and the bay is lined by a reef fronting the sea. From hence, King's Point appears like a steep hill; Pulo Gomez then resembles two paps, its western point being very low, with an islet adjoining, and breakers projecting a considerable way to the westward, To avoid these, ships steering for the Surat Passage, should keep nearest to King's Point, which is bold with regular soundings 12 and 14 fathoms sandy bottom at a moderate distance from it: and they may anchor occasionally to stop tide, near that shore, in 7 or 8, to 10 fathoms water. The South side of Pule Gomez, is also safe to approach; the depths are 24 to 15 fathoms when its South point bears East from 1 to ½ a mile, 18 fathoms with it E. by N. 2 miles, 14 fathoms when E. by N. ¾ of a mile, and 13 fathoms when it bears E. N. E. about 1 mile; and regular soundings from 20 to 35 fathoms, extend about 2 leagues to the westward of it and King's Point.

Directions.

If a ship about to enter the Surat Passage find the tide unfavorable, she ought to anchor under King's Point until the flood is made, which sets directly through the passage to the N. Eastward and the ebb in the opposite direction; after weighing with the flood, she ought to keep nearest to King's Point in passing between it and Pulo Gomez, where there are regular soundings and good anchoring ground, from 10 to 17 fathoms. The narrow gut or gateway, at the East end of the passage, formed between Achen Head or the eastern extremity of King's Point, and the opposite island, is only about 80 or 90 fathoms wide, with 30 and 35 fathoms rocky bottom, and the tide sets through it with great rapidity, 5 and 6 wiles an hour in the springs. If the wind be contrary, a ship may back and fill through this narrow part, with her head toward the windward shore, keeping rather nearest to King's Point, which is perpendicular and steep to; whereas, the shore of the opposite island, is not so bold. Proceeding to sea in the S.W. monsoon, she may enter it with the first of the ebb, with the maintopsail aback, and her head toward the Sumatra shore if the wind is at S. Westward; but the eddies occasioned by the rapid tides, sometimes carry a ship's head round in every direction, when driving through this narrow pass, particularly in light winds. Being formed between two points, and of little extent, a ship is soon drifted through; and as there is anchorage on each side of the entrance at a small distance, this passage has been sometimes used by large ships,* but it must always be attended with some risk. Although ships have been recommended to back and fill through the Surat Passage, when the wind is contrary, yet, the Harriet, Capt. Bean, in doing so, was carried by the eddies on the rocks, and wrecked. Capt. Bradshaw, is of opinion, that the safest way to proceed through this passage to the southward, with a contrary wind, is to reduce sail to three topsails when the northern entrance is approached, then keep the ship before the wind, letting her drift through; by this means she will be under the influence of the helm; whereas, in backing and filling, should an eddy strike the ship on either bow, she might be on the rocks before she could be checked by the bead yards.

The Castle Eden, bound to Bengal in a fleet, anchored November 3d, 1800, at 8 P.M. in 13 fathoms, at the West entrance of the Surat Passage. At day-light she weighed and stood for it with the wind at S. E., shoaling gradually to 7 fathoms, and deepening afterward to 25 fathoms no ground. She was in the narrowest part of the passage at this time, when the tide turned to the S.W., and set her fast astern; she was permitted to drop into 8 fathoms fine sand, then anchored with Pulo Gomez S. 65° W., King's Point from S.16° W.

* The China fleet homeward bound, touched at Achen, and proceeded to sea by the Surat Passage; the fleet bound to Bengal also went through it, and stopped at Achen for water, in November 1800.

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to the easternmost extreme of the passage N. 75° East. At 4 P. M. November 4th, she weighed with the flood, and went through the passage, then steered about E. N. E. to the anchorage at Achen, shoaling from 20 to 10 fathoms at 6 P. M. when she anchored with the river's mouth bearing S. E. ¼ E., distant about 1 ½ mile. In the Surat Passage, it is high water about 8 hours, on full and change of the moon.

Geo. Site of Achen.

Anchorage.

ACHEN, in lat. 5° 35′ N., lon. 95° 26′ E.,* distant about 2 ½ leagues from the eastern end of the Surat Passage, is a considerable town situated on the banks of a river, which falls into the sea by several branches, separating the low country into islands; and this low plain formed between the foot of the mountains and the sea, is partly inundated during the rainy season. This was formerly a place of great trade, frequented by ships from the different countries in Europe, as well as those from China, and all parts of India, when the kingdom of Achen was powerful and flourishing; but it is now become feeble and much reduced, many of the Rajahs or Chiefs, who formerly were tributary to the King of Achen, being now independent. Gold, camphor, pepper, sulphur, beetlenut, &c. used to be exported, and there is still some trade carried on by small vessels from different parts of India, but large ships seldom touch here, unless to procure refreshments. Rice, bullocks, poultry, vegetables and fruits, may be generally got in abundance, and plenty of fresh water. The principal entrance of the river has a shoal bar, which a boat can hardly pass at low water; but vessels from 20 to 30 tons burthen may enter the river at high water, when the rise of tide is about 7 feet on the springs, high water at 9 hours on full and change of the moon, subject to irregularities from winds or other causes: The common anchorage of the road, is in 8 or 9, to 10 or 14 fathoms water, Anchorage. about 2 or 3 miles off the entrance of the river, in lat. 5° 38′ W. N., with it bearing S. ½ E. to S. E. Here, vessels are well sheltered from the S.W. monsoon, which generally prevails from April to November; in the other season, the easterly winds are seldom strong, but northwesters happen at times; these blow into the Bengal passage with great force, and require good ground-tackle to ride secure against them. In the road and near the shore, land and sea breezes are often experienced in both seasons, but the land breezes are very partial, seldom extending beyond the islands. The king of Achen resides generally at Tulosamaway, and Achen being seldom visited by him, it has in consequence, been little frequented lately by trading vessels; the chief places of trade to the eastward of Achen, are Pedir, Bourou, and Tulosamaway. Ships trading here, ought to be on their guard, and not put too much confidence in the people with whom they trade, nor suffer them to be much in their debt; when this has been the case, many ships have been cut off, as the easiest manner of settling their engagements. During these last 30 years, the king of Achen has been at war with some one or other of his subjects; and his fleet, consisting of 12 or 14 snows and brigs, usually cruized from Tulosamaway round to Soosoo on the West coast.

Geo. Site of the Golden Mountain.

GOLDEN MOUNTAIN, or QUEEN'S MOUNTAIN, situated a little way inland about 7 or 8 leagues to the eastward of Achen, in lat. 5° 27′ N., lon. 95° 49′ E., or 1° 49′ East from the South end of Great Nicobar, by chronometers, is a high regular cone about 6900 feet above the level of the sea, and may be seen about 92 miles from the deck of a ship in dear weather. When it bore S. S.W., distant from us 88 miles, the summit was seen from the deck a little elevated above the horizon. In clear weather, this beautiful mountain when visible, is a good mark for pointing out a ship's situation in entering Malacca Strait, when her distance from the islands is too great to admit any of them, or the land near King's Point, to be discerned. There is a small mountain close to the Golden Mountain, called in some old journals the Orphan: the natives know these mountains by the appellation of Ya Mura, Ya Muree.

* Capt. Basil Hall, of the Royal Navy, in 1814, made Achen Road in lat. 5° 36 ½′ N., lon. 95° 24′ E. by lunar observations. Capt. Bradshaw, made the Flagstaff in lat. 5° 35′ N.

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To sail from Achen.

Ships departing from Achen, may, if bound to the northward, pass out by the Bengal, or Malacca Passage, as circumstances render prudent; those bound to the westward in the S.W. monsoon, may proceed through the Surat Passage, if the weather be very favorable; otherwise, through the Bengal Passage, keeping close to the islets off the North end of Pulo Brasse, where a current will assist them in getting to the westward. This has been already observed in Volume First of this work, near the end, where directions are given for sailing to, and from Malacca Strait and Achen in the S.W. monsoon;* and a general description of winds and currents near Achen Head and the Nicobar Islands, will he found in an early section of the same volume; nevertheless, a brief statement of the prevailing winds and currents, may here be more comprehensive, and of greater utility.

S. W. monsoon.

Current.

To work out of the Strait of Malacca, in that season.

S. W. MONSOON, generally begins about the end of April, or rather early in May, between Achen Head and the Nicobar Islands, and abates in October; although in October, and also in November, westerly winds frequently prevail. During the strength of this monsoon, from May to September, the weather is often cloudy, with squalls and heavy showers of rain at times: the current then generally sets with the wind to the eastward into Malacca Strait, but more commonly to N. Eastward; it is, however, liable to change, and set to the southward at times, particularly when the wind is light and veers to the westward. When the current in the S.W. monsoon is running in betwixt the South Nicobar and the islands off Achen, to the N. Eastward, there is generally a contra or eddy current setting along the coast of Pedir to the westward, which continues to set in that direction amongst the Achen Islands to seaward: therefore, all ships bound from Malacca to the westward, should in this season keep near the coast of Pedir, and after reaching Achen they may go out by the Surat Passage, if the weather be very favorable, or through the Bengal Passage in preference, observing to keep close round the islets off the North end of Pulo Brasse, then take every advantage to tack with the shifts of wind that are favorable for getting to the S. Westward.

The King George, by beating in the open sea between Pulo Rondo and the Nicobars in July, 1791, was 14 days getting a few leagues to the westward of Pulo Brasse; had she passed inside of Pulo Way, and proceeded through the Bengal Passage, she probably would have saved most of that time.

The Worcester, in May, 1795, bound to Bencoolen, working in the same manner, too far out from Sumatra, could not get round Achen Head, and returned to Prince of Wales's Island. She sailed again from thence June 16th, steered along the Pedir Coast, anchored at Achen on the 26th, and from that place got speedily out of the Strait, by passing close round Pulo Brasse.

Many other ships have been greatly delayed by endeavouring to work out between the Nicobars and Pulo Rondo, against strong winds and N. Easterly currents in the S.W. monsoon; not knowing that a favorable current generally prevails close to the Sumatra Coast, and among the islands.

N. E. monsoon.

N. E. MONSOON, mostly prevails in the entrance of Malacca Strait, between Achen Head and the Nicobar Islands, from November to May, which is the fair season. In October and November the winds are variable, frequently at N.W. and Westward; although in some seasons, the N. E. winds set in regularly in November. From this period to March, the N. E. monsoon is strongest, but at times it is liable to veer to the northward or N.W.; and westerly breezes of one or two days duration, have been experienced in every month when the N. E. monsoon should prevail. Late in March, or early in April, the N. E. and Northerly winds, become light and variable. When the N. E. monsoon blows steady, the current generally runs with the wind out of the strait to the westward. When the wind draws

* See also, directions relative to sailing to, or from Achen, in the two sections of this work, where Rangoon and Mergui Rivers are described, with sailing directions.

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Current.

to the northward, the current a little outside of the Achen Islands, sets to the southward between them and the Nicobars; and when the wind veers to West or S. W. it generally runs into the strait, or to the North eastward; so that the current there, is in its direction and velocity, mostly governed by the wind. This is, however, not always the case, for at times the current is found to run oblique, or contrary to the wind, which requires the navigator to be cautious when no observations are obtained for the latitude; more particularly, when running for the entrance of the Strait during thick weather, in the S.W. monsoon.

Directions.

Ships leaving the Strait in October or November, when westerly winds are found to prevail, should follow the track already recommended for ships bound out in the S.W. monsoon, that they may benefit by the westerly set on the coast of Pedir and among the islands, or at least avoid the current running into the Strait in the offing.

The Thames, in November, 1800, bound out of the Strait to Europe, had the winds from S.W., with a current setting in between Pulo Rondo and the South Nicobar, which prevented her getting out to the southward of the latter; she was therefore obliged to stand to the North-westward, and passed out betwixt the Car-Nicobar and the Little Andaman: from thence, she made a good passage to St. Helena.*

The Camden, from Prince of Wales's Island in 1805, could not get out to sea between Pulo Rondo and the Nicobars, owing to light winds, and currents setting into the Strait; and she was obliged to bear away, November 5th, for Prince of Wales's Island, to get an additional supply of provisions.

The Rockingham and fleet, having arrived at Achen by the Surat Passage, remained there eight days, procuring water and other necessary supplies. November 15th, 1800, she sailed from thence through the Bengal Passage, with a current setting out of it; and on the following day (having been close hauled with the wind at W. S. W. and S. W.) made the Nicobar. bearing W. N., distant 8 leagues, the current having run 44 miles to the N. Eastward during the 24 hours.

In the entrance of Malacca Strait, near the Nicobar and Achen Islands, and betwixt them and Junkseylon, there are often very strong Ripplings, particularly in the S.W. monsoon; these are alarming to persons unacquainted, for the broken water makes a great noise when a ship is passing through the Ripplings in the night. In most places, Ripplings are thought to be produced by strong currents, but here they are frequently seen when there is no perceptible current. Although there is often no perceptible current experienced, so as to produce an error in the course and distance sailed, yet the surface of the water is impelled forward, by some undiscovered cause. The Ripplings are seen in calm weather approaching from a distance, and in the night, their noise is heard a considerable time before they come near. They beat against the sides of a ship with great violence, and pass on, the spray sometimes coming on deck, and a small boat could not always resist the turbulence of these remarkable Ripplings.

2d. MONSOONS; CHANNELS ALONG THE WEST COAST OF SUMATRA; AND SAILING DIRECTIONS FROM ACHEN HEAD TO BANCOONGONG BAY.

West Coast of Sumatra.

FROM KING'S POINT, the general direction of the West Coast of Sumatra to Flat Point, its southern extremity in lat. 5° 55′ S., is about S. E. ½ S., and the distance 294 leagues, the equator dividing it nearly in equal parts. Numerous small islands, and danger-

* Captain Williams, of the Thames, observes, that notwithstanding he beat down the China Sea against the S.W. monsoon in August and September, had he not lost much time endeavouring to work round the islands off Achen Head, he most probably would have reached St. Helena as soon as the ships which left China about two months before him, and pursued the eastern route.

VOL. II. G

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Periodical Winds.

ous shoals, are interspersed along different parts. of this extensive coast, and a chain of large islands farther out, stretches parallel to it, at the distance of 18 or 20 leagues, between some of which islands, there are safe channels. The winds are here denominated the S. E. and N. W. monsoons, agreeably to the direction in which the periodical winds are experienced to blow in South latitude, but they are subject to great irregularities on this coast, on account of the numerous islands in its vicinity; and the two extremities being far distant, on different sides of the equator, the same winds cannot be expected at all times to prevail along the whole of the coast. Whilst the North part of the coast enjoys fine weather from October to April, N. W. winds with rain and squally weather, prevail on the South part; and in the opposite season, when the S. E. monsoon is blowing on the South part of the coast, the N. W. monsoon prevails with squalls and rain, close to the coast in North latitude; but outside of the islands, in the open sea, the wind is then generally between South and S. W.

S. E. monsoon.

To approach the coast in that season.

THE S. E. MONSOON, or dry season, generally begins in May and continues till October. In this season, when the southerly winds blow more steady and with greater force than usual, which is from June until late in September, there are no land breezes; at other times, brisk sea breezes prevail from S. W. and Southward in the day, and variable breezes from the land, or from the northward, in the night. Ships coming from sea in this monsoon, the coast should, if bound to Bencoolen, or any other place well to the southward of the equator, endeavour not to fall in with the coast to the northward of their port, for several days may be lost in reaching it, when the southerly winds prevail. The Herculean, bound to Bencoolen, fell in with the Poggy Islands so late as the 18th of September, 1803, and was seven days getting to that place, the winds being constantly from S. Eastward.

N. Westers render the Inner passage tedious when bound northward.

Although the S. E. or Southerly monsoon prevails most on this coast to the southward of the equator, North-westers are liable to blow for a few days at times, particularly about the full or change of the moon.* These North-westers are more common in North latitude, with southerly currents and frequent calms, rendering the navigation by the Inner Passage close along the coast, very tedious and troublesome; more particularly, as ships are in many places, obliged to anchor in the night on account of surrounding dangers; and in the day, by the prevalence of faint breezes, calms, and contrary currents.

The Royal George, bound to Malacca Strait and China, left Padang, July 1st, 1803, and proceeded along the coast by the Inner Passage; she made very slow progress, N. W. winds and southerly currents made anchoring so often indispensible, that it was the 12th before she reached the equator, and the 6th of August, when she got to Achen Head.

The frigate, Bombay, and Lady Castlereagh in company, in 1804, were all July and part of August, getting from Bencoolen along the coast to the northward by the Inner Passage; and the latter ship struck on one of the rocky shoals about 10 miles off shore, in lat, 3° 4′ N.

The passage outside the islands preferable.

THE INNER PASSAGE, has been generally recommended to navigators, but it certainly ought not; probably no ship should adopt it, unless when trading at different places on the coast, and it should seldom be chosen by ships bound to the northward in either mansoon. The Outer Passage, to the westward of all the islands, in the open sea, is far preferable; for there, S. W. and Southerly winds often prevail, when N.W. squalls and variable baffling winds may be experienced close to the land.

The Arniston, bound to China by Malacca Strait, left Bencoolen, June 25th, 1802, stood directly to the westward into the open sea, where she got brisk southerly winds, which enabled

* The N. Westers sometimes blow strong between Bencoolen and the entrance of Sunda Strait in December and January. The Rochester, and King William, were obliged to ride three days with top-masts struck, from the 15th to the 18th of January, 1717, during a violent North-wester, about 14 leagues to the southward of Bencoolen.

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ber to pass Pulo Rondo, July 8th. Had she proceeded close along the coast, her passage might have been greatly prolonged, as happened to the ships mentioned above.

We were in the King George from the 26th of July to the 11th of August, 1791, getting from Pulo Rondo to the equator, when bound to Bombay by the Southern Passage; the winds in the open sea to the westward of the islands, being then constantly between S. W. and South.

N.W. monsoon.

Land and sea breezes.

N.W. MONSOON, prevails on the West coast of Sumatra, (particularly in South latitude) from October to April; in some seasons N. W. winds begin early in October, but from this month to the middle of January, they generally blow strongest, attended often by much thunder, lightning, and rain. In March, the hard rains abate, and the weather becomes more favorable. When the land and sea breezes prevail on this coast, which may happen at times, in either monsoon, the sea breeze sets in between 10 A. M. and noon, subsequent to a calm, and declines with the setting sun. The land breeze begins early in the night and continues until 8 or 9 o'clock in the morning, subject to many irregularities. To the southward of the Equator, unsettled land winds, squally weather and rain, prevail greatly in the night during the N.W. monsoon; with sea breezes at N. W., W. N. W., or West, in the day, veering to W. S. W. and S. W. about the middle of March, or early in April.

In most parts of India to the northward of the equator, the N. E. monsoon prevails when the sun is in the southern hemisphere, but on the West coast of Sumatra, it is changed to a N. W. monsoon by the direction of the land. From December to April, the weather is often settled and fine in North latitude, with land and sea breezes; at other times, particularly in the springs, N. Westers prevail, which blow stronger than any other winds upon this coast. They generally produce a considerable sea, rendering it precarious to ride at anchor in any of the open roads on the coast, when they blow strong; and it is very difficult to work to the northward, whilst they continue in force.

Alfred made little progress to the northward, inside the islands.

The Alfred, bound to Prince of Wales' Island and China, left Bencoolen, October 22d, 1807; having a southerly wind at the time, Captain Welstead steered to the northward, intending to pass out into the open sea between the North end of Se Beroo and Pule Mintao. The wind shifted to N. Westward, with frequent hard squalls, much rain, intervening calms, and southerly currents; with this unfavorable weather, very little progress was made to the northward, and many of the people being disabled from duty by the heavy rains, they were obliged on the 29th, after seven days loss of time, to bear away, and pass out, round the southern limit of the islands, opposite to Bencoolen.

Outside passage preferable.

It seems advisable at all times, for large ships bound from Bencoolen to Malacca Strait, to steer to the westward far outside of all the islands, where, in both monsoons, they will certainly get much quicker to the northward by keeping in the open sea, than by following any of the routes inside of the islands.

Current.

THE CURRENT on the West coast of Sumatra is influenced greatly by the winds, and seldom runs to the northward, in either monsoon, except when the wind is blowing strong from southward, which will happen at times, particularly in South latitude. When N. westers prevail, the current runs with the wind to the S. Eastward, and it generally sets in this direction along the coast in both monsoons, particularly in North latitude. To the northward of the equator, when the current is setting to the southward betwixt the coast and the islands, it is frequently at the same time running to the northward, in the open sea, far outside of them. In October, November, and December, it is generally tedious getting to the northward, particularly from the equator to Achen Head, for baffling N.W. winds and southerly currents, are often found to extend a great way out from the coast in these months, particularly in the channels among the large islands in the offing, the current sets to the South, and S. Westward. But in June and July, between Analaboo and Achen Head, the current has been found to set to the N. Westward from 20 to 30 miles per day.

G 2

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To the southward of the equator, when at times the southerly winds blow with considerable strength from June to October, a drain of current is impelled to the northward, at which times it is rather tedious and difficult to work to the southward along the coast.

The rise of tide on most parts of the coast does not exceed 2 or 3 feet in the springs; and in places not far distant from the equator, it is high water about 6 hours at full and change, or when the moon is in the horizon. There is generally a considerable surf on most parts of the coast, which is highest in the southerly monsoon, during the spring tides.

Channels or routes parallel to the coast.

Dangerous shoals.

THE CHANNELS, or ROUTES, along the West coast of Sumatra, may be considered as three in number. That to the westward of all the islands in the open sea, recommended as the best at all times, has been described above, as the OUTER PASSAGE. The space between the chain of large islands in the offing, and those smaller islands contiguous to, and interspersed along the coast, may be called the MIDDLE PASSAGE, which is generally from 4 to 10 leagues distant from the shore of Sumatra, and is connected with the INNER PASSAGE in some places. This route should not be followed when bound to the northward, nor at any time, if it can be avoided without inconveniency, for ships are liable to be drifted about by currents when the winds are faint and baffling, there being no anchorage; and in some parts toward the main, dangerous coral shoals from 1 to 2 and 3 fathoms under the surface, shoot up from deep water at the edge of soundings. The Inner Passage, close along the coast, and betwixt some of the islands near it, having in many places moderate depths for anchoring occasionally, is preferable to the Middle one; but on account of the numerous small islands, and many dangerous shoals, the true positions of which are not correctly determined, it is to persons unacquainted, an intricate and embarrassing passage, and should only be adopted by vessels trading to different parts of the coast. Ships proceeding by it are generally obliged to anchor during the night, but the Middle Passage being wide, with few dangers, they may run in it night or day, when the weather is clear and favorable.

It has been said, that all the shoals on this coast are white coral rocks, discernible from the mast-head a mile off in the day time, even when they art 3 fathoms under water. This is certainly a great mistake, for many of the shoals consist of black rocks, not discernible until close to them, although covered only with 8 or 10 feet water. Several ships have, therefore, grounded upon these shoals in the day time, before they could be perceived. A good look out from the mast-head is nevertheless useful, particularly when the sun shines, for many of the dangers will then be discernible before they are approached very close.

To steer for the coast in coming from seaward.

Ships bound to parts of the coast situated betwixt Bencoolen and Tappanooly, may in coming from sea, pass through some of the channels formed by the principal islands in the offing, adopting a safe and convenient one, according to the season and prevailing winds: an account of these channels will be found in one of the following sections, where the islands are described. Ships bound to the northern part of the coast, any where betwixt Tappanooly and Achen Head, should pass to the northward of Hog Island, and make the land near to their port; but when northerly winds prevail, they ought to keep well to windward, and after making the land, coast along at a moderate distance to the place to which they are bound.

Coast from Achen Head southward.

FROM the land of ACHEN HEAD, the coast extends about 4 or 5 leagues nearly S. ½ E., to a cove on the North side of a small point of land called Siddo Harbour, where cattle may be obtained; and from 12 to 25 fathoms are good depths to preserve in coasting along. Off this place, and to the northward, lie some rocky islets at a small distance, the largest of which is called Pulo Roosa; and 3 leagues farther southward, lies Saddle Island, with contiguous rocks above water, distant 1 or 2 miles from the shore. There is a peaked hill inland, to the eastward of Saddle Island, and two bays between it and Siddo Point. The coast

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is low near the sea, to the southward of Saddle Island, and extends about S. by E. 10 or 11 leagues to a point of land with an inlet and two hills near it to the eastward, one called China Hat, and the other Cleft Hill, from their appearance. Several isles extending to lat. 4° 30′ N., are interspersed along this part of the coast, about 1 or 2 miles off shore, with 15 and 20 fathoms water near them. Cocoa-nut Island, about 2 leagues to the northward of the point, is the largest, and Cap Island, in lat. 4° 36½′ N., lies farther out, being about a league to the S.W. of the point, with apparently a safe passage between it and a group of islets surrounding the point.

Capt. Bradshaw, says, that Pulo Rhio by observation is in lat. 4° 52′ N., distant 9 miles to the northward of Cocoa-nut Island, and easily known, being a long low island, of a reddish colour, with some cocoa-nut trees on the summit, and a rocky islet off its north-west point, which may be passed within ½ a mile, in small vessels proceeding to the anchorage between the island and the main. This island yields from 2000 to 3000 pecules of pepper annually, but a ship touching here, must be always guarded against the inhabitants, who are Achenese, not to be trusted. There are seven or eight small islands between Cap Island and Pulo Rhio, but the latter may always be known, by the remarkable spot near the sea resembling a Chinese hat. With Pulo Rhio bearing East 1 mile distant there are 17 fathoms water, and Cap Island may be passed at 1 mile distance in 19 fathoms.

Lieut. Henning, states Pulo Rhio to be in lat. 4° 48′ N., that it is safe to approach, having 14 fathoms near the islet at its N. Western end, and when the island bears E. S. E. you may stand in for the anchorage, keeping about ½ a mile from it, and anchor in 8 or 9 fathoms mud, with the extremes of the island bearing W. S.W. or S. W. to S. S. E., the northern extremity of the coast will then bear about N.N.W ½ W., and the passage between the island and the main just open. This passage is very narrow, with 5 and 6 fathoms water in it, having a coral rock, with 2 fathoms water over it, rather nearer the main than mid-channel: there is good anchorage to the southward of Pulo Rhio, where you are sheltered from N.W. winds. This is the northernmost of the Pepper Ports, which is procured from three small villages in the bay to the northward of the island. In coasting between Pulo Roosa and Pulo Rhio, 18 or 20 fathoms are good depths to preserve, about 4 miles off shore, where the bottom is soft, but farther in, it is generally foul. Betwixt Pulo Rhio and Analaboo, there is a place called Qualla or Kola Oyla, little frequented.

Capt. Bradshaw, anchored under five of the small islands in 11 fathoms mud, with the north point of the inner one N. ½ W., centre one N.W. ¼ W., Cap Island W.N.W., off the group 1 mile, China Hat N.N.W. ¼ W., and he made the centre of these five islands in lat. 4° 35′ 3″ N. There is a small place within them called Chelimgan, but vessels do not touch there; and in lat. 4° 27′ N. there is an extensive river.

There is said to be a good harbour sheltered from all winds called Batoe Tootoong, capable of containing a fleet; the entrance of this harbour bore N. ¾ W., when Pulo Roosa bore N. E.¼ N., Arigas Hill N.E. ¾ N., Arigas Bay N.E. ½ E., and Pulo Kalang (the smallest and southernmost island) bore then East.

In about lat. 5° 0′ N. there is a coral bank about 3 or 4 leagues off shore, said to have 5 fathoms water on it, and 30 fathoms close to it all round. Capt. Bennet says, it bears about N.W. from Pulo Roosa, with only 4 fathoms rocks on it in some places, and that he had passed over it several times in a small vessel.

POINT BUBON, or BOOBOOANG, in lat. 4° 14½′ N., and about 4 leagues to the N.W. of Analaboo, is conspicuous from a dark cluster of trees upon it resembling a bonnet; and the coast here is safe to approach to 12 fathoms. If bound to the Village of Boobooang, bring the woods to the south of it to bear north, then steer in for it till in 3½ fathoms, if in a small vessel.

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Geo. Site of Analaboo.

ANALABOO, or NALABOO, in lat. 4° 8′ 32″ N., lon. 96° 15′ E.*, distant 13 or 14 leagues S.E. ½ E. of Cap Island, may be known by a grove of cocoa-nut trees on the low rocky point that forms the North side of the road, appearing like an island when first seen, the land being low along this part of the coast. A ship may anchor here with the point bearing about N.W. in 7 or 8 fathoms, on the South side of a reef that projects a considerable way from the North side of a small rivulet, and procure wood, plenty of fresh water, or other refreshments. Capt. Bennet says, you may anchor in 5 fathoms with the point of Cocoa-nut Trees W. ¼ S., distant about ½ a mile, and will then be sheltered from North westers. A reef projects a ¼ mile from the point, which is steep to, with only 5 feet water on it, and the sea does not break over it except in blowing weather. A considerable trade is carried on here in pepper, and several American and other ships procure full cargoes in the season. The Rajah is favorably inclined towards ships which come to trade at this place.

Soundings.

The soundings from the land of Achen Head to Cap Island, are in some places irregular over a rocky bottom, the depths generally 18 to 30 fathoms from 1 to 3 leagues off shore. In this space, ships should keep 2 or 3 leagues from the land in the night, to give a proper birth to the rocky isles scattered along the coast. From Cap Island to Analaboo, the soundings are more regular, and the bottom soft; here, a ship may approach the shore to 11 or 12 fathoms, and occasionally to 9 fathoms, but do not come under this depth in passing Analaboo Point, as 1½ mile S.W. from it lies a coral shoal, after passing which you may stand into the bay and anchor in 5 fathoms with the River's Point N. ¼ E., China House N. by W. ¾ W.

From Analaboo to Cape Felix or Oujong Rajah, the course is S.E. ½ E. to S.E. by S., distance 10 or 11 leagues, and the coast may be approached to 11 or 12 fathoms, from 2, to 7 or 8 miles off shore: near Cape Felix, and about 4 or 5 miles from the shore, the water deepens suddenly to 26 or 28 fathoms, and the coast trends from it eastward to Soosoo.

With Cape Felix bearing S.E. by E. ¼ E. about 10 miles, the Countess of Loudon shoaled quick from 11, 10, and 9, to 3 fathoms on a shoal of very small extent, and immediately after tacking on it had 9 fathoms.

Geo. Site of Cape Felix.

CAPE FELIX, or OOJANG RAJAH, in lat. 3° 43′ N., lon. 96° 40′ E. by Captain Ashmore's observations, is a low level headland, bold to approach, bearing from Soosoo town W. ¼ N., distant 5 or 5½ leagues, and forms the western, extremity of the bay.

Soosoo Bay.

To sail into the road;

Auchorage.

SOOSOO BAY contains several dangerous shoals, covered with 1, 2, and 2½ fathoms water; there is also much foul ground in it, with overfalls from 20 to 10 fathoms, but the channel is wide and safe between the shoals on the West side of the bay, and those to the southward of Soosoo Point. A ship bound into the road, after coasting along about 2 or 3 leagues off, in 28 to 35 fathoms, when the road is approached, ought to keep a boat a-head to sound, if unacquainted, and steer in with Soosoo Point or the entrance of the river, bearing about N.E. or the town N.E. ½ E. Pulo Khio, a small point close to the beach, lies 1½ or 2 miles to the westward of Soosoo Point, and resembles it when first seen; it has the appearance of an island. A ship may anchor in 18 or 20 fathoms, with the houses of Soosoo N.E. by E, about 2 miles off shore; or by choosing a clear birth with the boat, she may move into 9 or 10 fathoms near the entrance of the river, and anchor with Soosoo Point E.N.E. Soosoo Point, appears with two or three trees close to the houses, like a small island; steering in with it about N.E. ½ E., a tall tree near the middle of the bottom of the bay will be seen, which bring N.E. ½ N., and steer direct for it until in 10 or 11 fathoms soft ground, then anchor within a ¼ mile of Soosoo Point. The Royal George, at anchor in

* Lieut. Freeman made the Point of Analaboo in lat. 4° 7′ N., lon. 96° 8′ E. by chronometers from King's Point, Achen Head.

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18 fathoms, had Cape Felix W. ½ N., the southernmost extreme of the land S.E. by S., and Soosoo town E.N.E., distant about 1 mile: Soosoo town is in lat. 3° 41′ N. lon. 96° 52′ E.

Geo. Site.

Quallo Batoo.

QUALLO BATOO, now the chief port, is about 3 miles to the W.N.W. of Soosoo; and in coasting along in 28 to 30 fathoms, when Soosoo Point is seen, you may steer towards it until the houses at Qualla Batoo bear N. ½ E., then steer direct for them, which will carry you mid-channel between the shoals, three of them on the left hand, the southernmost of which bears S.W. by W. from Pulo Khio, and one on the right hand about a mile distant from Pulo Khio: the sea generally breaks on them. The anchorage at Qualla Batoo is in 20 to 22 fathoms, with Pulo Khio E.S.E., the River's mouth N. ½ W., and Cape Felix about W. ¼ S. About 4 or 5 miles to the westward of Qualla Batoo, there is a shoal, which lies in a direct line between Cape Felix and Soosoo Point.

Small ships frequent this place, to procure pepper and other articles of trade, but it is prudent to be always guarded against the perfidy of the natives, who have been several times successful, in assaulting and taking possession of ships which came to trade with them.

About 2½ leagues to the S.E. of Soosoo, on the east of a bluff point of Arrow Trees, there is a place called Mangien, with anchorage in 9½ fathoms, inside of a rocky shoal that lies about 1½ mile about S. by W. from the bluff point. Laboan Hadgee, about half way between Mangien and Muckay, is also an anchoring place for procuring pepper, having a sand bank, and other dangers fronting it.

Muckay.

MUCKAY, in lat. 3° 28′ N., is a small place where the coasting vessels stop at times to trade: if bound into this place, bring the low point that forms the western arm of the bay of Muckay to bear N.E., and steer for it on this bearing till within ½ a mile of it, which will clear the shoals, but the anchorage is not very good if you go within the N.W. point.

There are two shoals off Muckay in 23 fathoms, one bearing W.S.W. about 2½ miles from the southern bluff point of Muckay Bay, the other S.W. 3 miles from the same point, and bearing nearly North and South of each other; the former has only 11 feet on it, and the latter 2½ fathoms. A course S.W. from Muckay will carry you between the shoals, and when in 27 fathoms you are outside of them.

The course from Cape Felix to Muckay is S.E. by E. ½ E., in which track do not come under 27 fathoms water, as there are several dangerous shoals within this depth, and also many on the outside, some of which are also dangerous.

Tellapoe.

TELLAPOE, or TELLOK POW, in lat. 3° 22′ N., and 8 miles S. Eastward from Muckay, is a place where pepper is sometimes got: the best anchorage is with the point N. by E. in 17 fathoms, under which depth the ground is frequently foul. Labanacky is a small place in lat. 3° 20′ N.

Geo. Site of Tumpat Tuan.

TUMPAT TUAN POINT, the southern extreme of the high land seen from Soosoo, distant from it about 12 leagues, is in lat. 3° 15′ N., lon. 97° 20′ E., having a reef projecting 1 mile from the Point to seaward, with anchorage in 15 to 20 fathoms close on the East side of the Point, with it bearing about West, and the village N. by W., distant 1 mile.

About 1 mile W. by N. from Tumpat Tuan Point, lies a small round rock, like a boat, with a rock visible off the extreme point, which may be rounded close, having 27 fathoms at a small distance from it. In the bottom of the bay, there is a reef on which the sea usually breaks, rendering it unsafe with southerly winds.

Along this part of the coast between Achen Head and Soosoo, the weather is generally settled and fine in the northerly monsoon, with frequent land and sea breezes.

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Point Labou, dangerous shoals from thence southward.

POINT LABON, or OOJONG CALOAT, in about lat. 3° 3′ N., is 19 or 20 leagues to the S.E. of Cape Felix, and in sailing between them, great care is requisite to avoid several shoals interspersed along the coast. The Lord Castlereagh struck on one of them in lat. 3° 4′ N., distant about 10 miles from the shore, and had no ground 40 fathoms close to it. This seems to be the shoal called Lagootsong by the natives, bearing S.W. from Tumpat Tuan Point, with only 10 feet water on its shoalest part, (as stated by Capt. Bennet, who struck on it, in one of his voyages from Bengal to this coast). Betwixt lat. 3° and 3° 50′ N., he was very close to several other shoals, before they were observed. In lat. 3° 30′ N., the Royal George passed over the tail of a shoal,* in 6 fathoms, when the rocks were seen alongside; a little outside of it, they had no ground 85 fathoms, and 45 fathoms close to it on the inside; the depth from thence decreased gradually to 26 fathoms steering N. by W. toward Soosoo Bay. In lat. 3° 14′ N., there is another shoal with 4 fathoms, or less water on it, and 20 fathoms at a small distance inside: when at anchor on it in 5 fathoms, the extremes of the coast bore from N.N.W. to S.E. by E., and the White Rock N.N.E. ¾ E., distance off shore about 3 leagues.

From Tumpat Tuan to Oujong Camarang (the point to the N. Westward of Bancoongong Bay) the course is about S.E. 8 leagues, and a ship should keep 2½ or 3 miles off shore in 25 to 20 fathoms: when you rise the Point the small isle, called Pulo Monkier, will be perceived, from which Pulo Dooa bears E. by S. about.5 miles.

Bancoongong Bay.

Geo. Site.

BANCOONGONG, or BACOONGON BAY, about 6 leagues to the S. Eastward of Point Labon, where ships may lie sheltered from N. Westers, has some rocks off its western extremity; and there is a shoal on the edge of soundings, about 3 or 4 leagues to the southward. The river and village of Bancoongong in lat. 2° 52′ N., lon. 97° 38′ E., may be known by two small islands, the northernmost called Pulo Dooa, the other Pulo Kayoo, which have a safe channel between them of 10 and 12 fathoms, and are situated near the river's mouth; there is also a mountain close to the sea, nearly as high as the others, which is formed like a saddle, with the highest end to the southward, and Bancoongong lies close under its northern end, and 3 or 3½ miles to the N.W. of the village Sebadies. A large ship may anchor in 15 fathoms soft ground about ½ a mile off shore, with the entrance of the river bearing N. 22° E., where she will be well sheltered from N.W. winds: vessels sometimes touch at this place to trade, there being a river and village on the East side of the point; and 2½ miles West from the Point lies Pulo Monkier, a small isle with eight cocoa-nut trees on it.

Campong Arra.

Sebadies,

There is a shoal 1 mile S.S.E. from Pulo Kayoo, and S.S.W. 1 mile from it Campong Arra, a small islet with reefs; but off the village Sebadies, which lies East 2 miles from Pulo Dooa, there is good anchorage in 12 fathoms about 1 mile from the shore, sheltered from N.W. winds. If bound into this road, and being about 3 miles off shore in 25 fathoms, bring the village Sebadies to bear N. by E., steer in with this bearing, and anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms, the village N. by E., 1 or 1½ mile, and Pulo Dooa, about W. by N. 2½ or 3 miles.

and other places.

Lieut. Henning, says, there is a passage between Pulo Kayoo and the small Isle Campong Arra, but nearly in mid-channel there is a shoal with ¾ of a fathom on it, and another shoal E. ¼ S. from Campong Arra ¾ of a mile, which always breaks. About, ½ a mile W. by N: from Pulo Dooa there is also a shoal. Under Pulo Dooa is the best harbour amongst the Northern Pepper Ports, the anchorage being well sheltered in 13 fathoms with that island bearing West about ½ a mile.

Touroumang

TOUROUMANG, or TAROOMON, is 6 or.6½ miles to the E.S.E. of Sebadies, where a vessel may anchor, but W. by N. ½ N., or W.N.W. 2½ miles from it there is a reef, on which the sea sometimes breaks, with 8 fathoms close to it.

* This appears to be the same bank on which the Albion had 5 fathoms in lat. 3° 30′ N., and 4 or 5 leagues off shore; she hauled to the S.W., and soon deepened to 50 fathoms no ground.

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In the vicinity of Touroumang Bay, there are several dangerous shoals, one of which is in lat. 2° 47′ N., bearing from Pulo Dooa S.W. ½ W. about 8 miles, and W. by S. from the highest Peak of a Saddle Hill situated to the northward of Touroumang: this shoal has only 11 feet water on it, with 30 fathoms close to it on the outside. The brig, Hammudy, struck upon it in the night, steering S.S.W. in 28 fathoms. There is said to be a shoal in 24 fathoms, bearing from Pulo Dooa S. 50° W. 3 miles. One bearing N. 15° W. from Pulo Touroumang, distant about 2 miles, and another about W. by S. 2 miles from the same place.

Touroumang affords, at present, the largest quantity of pepper of any place on the coast; in approaching which, care should be taken to avoid the shoal bearing N. 15° W. from it, on which the sea sometimes breaks, as it is only covered with 9 feet water. The isle near the shore to the southward of the anchorage, should be brought to bear E.S.E., then steer towards it, and pass at a moderate distance round its northern end, from which a spit projects about ½ a cable's length. The anchorage is usually in 7 fathoms sandy bottom, off the mouth of the river, but good ground tackling is requisite, it being exposed to the N. Westers. Some vessels anchor under the island, although it is inconvenient to be so far from the mouth of the river. There is a passage to the southward of the island, between it and the shore, which is seldom used; as a reef lies nearly South about 1½ or 2 miles from the island; but Capt. Ross says, this inside passage is safe, by rounding the point to the southward of Touroumang in 5 fathoms, and from thence, the track close along shore, inside of all the shoals to Sinkell, is safe, and preferable to the outside track by Passage Island.

3d. DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING ALONG THE COAST FROM BANCOONGONG TO PADANG; ADJOINING ISLANDS AND SHOALS. DIRECTIONS TO SAIL FROM PADANG TO THE NORTHWARD.

Directions.

IN sailing from the northward, ships bound to Sinkel, or other ports North of the equator, ought to proceed by the Inner Passage between Pulo Banjack (or Baniak) and the main, and near to Passage Island. The land between Bancoongong Bay and Cape Sitoe, is mostly low near the sea, and hilly inland.

A rocky shoal,

In coasting along, keep about 3 or 4 leagues from the shore, to avoid the shoals, and when Passage Island is seen, steer toward it. Within 2 or 2½ miles of the main, with Baniak Peak bearing W.S.W. about 7 leagues, there is a rocky shoal, having only from 2 to 3 fathoms on it in some parts, with a safe channel of 8 and 9 fathoms between it and the Sumatra shore.

Passage within it.

Of this channel close along the coast, inside of the rocky shoal, the Cadogan's journal Passage gives the following description. December 5th, 1729, passed in 8, 9, and 10 fathoms regular soundings within a mile of the shore, between Cape Sitoe and the rocky shoal which lies off it, and at times could see a small breaker on the sunken rocks, which appeared to be 2 miles distant from the Cape, and makes this passage probably safer than the other between the shoal and Passage Island, because you may venture within ½ a mile of the shore.

Capt. Ross says, this Inner Passage is very safe, he having adopted it from the notice here given in the Cadogan's journal, and had 12 fathoms water near to Oojong Petecallo, and from thence passed close along the coast to Taroomon Road.

Passage Island,

PASSAGE ISLAND, called Javoe Javee by the natives, in about lat. 2° 22′ N.,* and about 3 leagues to the westward of Cape Sitoe, (or Oojong Petecallo) is low and sandy, with few shrubs, but one large tree of the Banian species may be seen at a great distance, and the island may be discerned from the deck 4 or 5 leagues in clear weather.

* Capt. Ashmore made it in lat. 2° 24½′ N. in 1821.

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adjacent channel, and dangers.

The channel between the coast of Sumatra and Passage Island, is rendered intricate by the dangerous shoals mentioned above, having only 2 and 3 fathoms rocks on them in some places, and situated nearly mid-way betwixt the island and the main. Although there is a safe passage inside of these shoals, mentioned above, by keeping close to the Sumatra shore, yet the channel between Passage Island and the shoals, is commonly adopted.

To sail through the channel, from the northward,

In steering for this channel, keep about 3 leagues off the coast until Passage Island is seen, then steer toward it, observing never to bring it more easterly than S.E., to prevent getting near the shoals and irregular soundings, that project from its outside to a considerable distance; one of which shoals is said to be 3 or 4 miles W.N.W. from the island. Having approached Passage Island within 3 miles, bring it to bear S.E. by S., or S.S.E., which are good bearings, and when ¾ or ½ a mile off it with these bearings, keep about the same distance in sailing along its eastern side, but not more than ¾ of a mile from it, to avoid the shoals situated mid-way between it and Cape Sitoe: on account of these, the island must be borrowed upon, but not under ½ a mile, for the flat is dry all round to the distance of a cable's length at low water, and projects about a ¼ mile, or rather more in some places, but is not visible at high water. By preserving the distance mentioned, the soundings will be pretty regular, and the depths never less than 10 and 12 fathoms, mostly rocky bottom. When Passage Island is in one with the Peak of Baniak they bear S.W. by W. ½ W., and it cannot be mistaken, there being no other island betwixt it and the main. A good look out from the mast-head is requisite when passing through this channel, as the coral shoals may be discerned in clear weather, but the flat surrounding Passage Island cannot be always distinguished. When through the channel, which is about a mile in length, the island must be kept between N.N.W. and N.W. by N., in steering from it to the southward, where a ship may anchor if the wind or tide is unfavorable; but to the northward of the island do not anchor under 20 fathoms, for the ground there, is rocky under that depth.

and from the southward.

From Sinkel Road to Passage Island the course is N.W., and in coming from the southward, when Passage Island bears S.W. you are at the entrance of the channel, steer N.W. in 12, 13, and 14 fathoms, and pass on the East side of the island at the distance of ¾ of a mile: if you borrow under ½ a mile, the water shoals suddenly from 11 or 12, to 6 fathoms, on the edge of the reef that surrounds the island.

Channel West of Passage Island.

There is a channel to the westward of Passage Island, by keeping near to Pulo Sago and the other islands that line the eastern side of Baniak, as several dangerous shoals extend two-thirds of the channel over from Passage Island toward Pulo Sago. Those who intend to adopt this channel in coming from the northward, should never in working, bring the southernmost island to the southward of S. 4° E. in standing toward the shoals, or even then, if the water shoal suddenly, tack immediately, as the shoals are steep to. The depths in this channel are irregular from 17 or 18, to 33 fathoms, and it is about 2 miles wide in the narrowest part abreast of the eastern side of Pulo Sago, between some shoals that project about ½ a mile from the N.E. point of this island, and, the other shoals which occupy the eastern side of the channel toward Passage Island.

In proceeding through this channel, a good look out from the mast-head is proper to discover the shoals, not having been well explored, and formerly no passage was known to exist here, but several of the ships which trade to this coast, have lately passed through it with safety, and Capt. Ashmore has given a plan of it in his Chart of the Northern Pepper Ports, on the West Coast of Sumatra, published at the Hydrographical Office, East India House.

Sinkel River and Road.

SINKEL RIVER, in lat. 2° 13′ N., about 4 leagues to the S. Eastward of Passage Island, and subject to the king of Achen, was formerly a place of considerable trade, the principal exports, benzoin, camphor, wax, and gold. A ship bound to this place, should, after leaving Passage Island, steer about S.S.E. or S.E. by S., taking care not to bring the island to the westward of N.W. by N., by keeping 6 or 7 miles from the main; the shoals between

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them will then be avoided, and having brought the low point on the North side of Sinkel River, (which is covered with palmira trees) to bear about E. by N., she may haul in, and anchor in from 12 to 17 fathoms, with the mouth of the river N.E., distant 1 mile. Sinkel Road, is inside of the reef that lies to the S.E. of the river.

Breakers project a little way from the points that form its entrance, and the town is well up the river; but when a ship is known to have anchored to trade, the merchants will come off to her. No person should be permitted on board, except the principal merchants, deprived of offensive weapons, and caution is requisite to repel or prevent any attack that the natives may be inclined to make. A snow, belonging to Bengal, was cut off here in 1782, since which time, few European traders have touched at this place, but it is said to be in a reviving state, by such persons as have visited it lately.

Se Leaga Bay.

To sail into the latter place.

SE LEAGA BAY, about 3 leagues eastward from the mouth of Sinkel River, is sometimes chosen by ships trading to Sinkel, on account of the shelter there. If bound into it, steer from Sinkel Point along the coast at a moderate distance to the West point of the bay, taking care to avoid a shoal or rock, said to lie in 20 fathoms, S.W. from the island in Se Leaga Bay. Oojong Rajah, the West point of the bay, has a long flat projecting about 2 leagues, which may be crossed about 3 miles from the shore in 8 or 9 fathoms hard ground, and when the bottom becomes soft to the eastward of it, haul up N.N.E., and pass on the West side of a low sandy island, and anchor between it and the western shore. If you are to remain a considerable time, run into 5 fathoms mud, and anchor on the West side of the small island Se Leaga, which is covered with trees; here, you will be sheltered by the land from westerly winds, and from S.E. winds by the reefs of breakers in that direction, at the entrance of the bay.

Islands and shoals from hence to Baroos.

Several islands and shoals are scattered along the coast from hence to Baroos, and there are some places on it, such as Bankole and Tapoos, frequented by the small trading vessels. The land in this space is generally low near the sea.

Geo. Site of Pulo Lacotta. Bird Island.

PULO LACOTTA, in about lat. 1° 44′ N.,* lon. 98° 7′ E., by Capt. Cameron, of the London, distant 9 or 10 leagues from Sinkel River, is a small low island, covered with trees; having at 4 miles distance, bearing N. by W. from it, a low islet or sand bank, in about 36 fathoms water, called Bird Island, from being a place of refuge to the feathered race, and it is not discerned farther than 3 leagues. A reef projects from. it about 1 mile to the N.W. and S.E., and when it is visible to an eye at 15 feet elevation above the sea, bearing S.E., 7 miles distant, and Pulo Lacotta S.S.E. ¼ E., there is a shoal with only 1 fathom water on it. With Bird Island W.S.W. 5 miles, Lacotta S.W. ½ W., and Mensular bearing E.S.E. to S.E. by E. ½ E., there is a shoal with 11 feet on it, and from 30 to 25 fathoms around it at a small distance.

To sail from Sinkel to Baroos Road.

A ship departing from Sinkel, should steer out into 23 or 26 fathoms, then S. Eastward for Bird Island, which may be approached on the North side within 1 or 1½ mile. The water deepens near these islands, but the soundings are not every where regular, and 34 fathoms is too close to Bird Island; the best track to keep, is from 26 to 30 fathoms water. Great prudence is requisite to pass them in the night, which should only be done in clear favorable weather, taking care not to borrow nearer to the shoals fronting the coast than 27 fathoms, nor too close to Bird Island, on account of the shoal to the North westward, and another betwixt it and Pulo Lacotta. Having passed Bird Island, a ship may haul in E. by S. and East for the main land, and pass Pulo Carangua, a small island covered with trees, at 2 miles distance on the South side, or less if requisite, and anchor in Baroos Road in 10

* By noon observation, 9th October, 1814, Capt. Henderson, of the Resourse, made it in lat. 1° 50′ N. He passed within 2½ miles of Bird Island, and got no ground with 30 fathoms of line.

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fathoms mud, with the Flagstaff N.N.E. near 2 leagues, and Pulo Carangua W.N.W. about 2 or 3 miles.

Baroos.

BAROOS, in about lat. 1° 56′ N., is a place of some trade, the principal exports camphor and benzoin; good fresh water may be procured, but it is dangerous for a ship's boat to enter the river, except one of the natives.is used as a guide. Wood and water may also be got at Pulo Lassey, about 2 leagues to the N.W., near the West point of Tapoos Bay, by anchoring under that island, with it bearing N.W. by W. about a mile.

To sail from it to Tappanooly Bay.

The course from Pulo Carangua to Pulo Sokum is S.E. by E. about 6 leagues; in sailing toward Tappanooly Bay, the channel between Mensular and the main is about 3 leagues wide, with regular soundings, and safe, to sail through at all times, there being good anchorage. The only known* danger is a shoal of coral rocks, with 9 feet water on it, situated about 3 miles off the main, and 4 or 5 miles N.W. ½ W. from Pulo Sokum, or 2/3 of the distance from it toward Battoo Barroo Point, which is of considerable height, and forms the western extreme of Tappanooly Bay. This shoal is small, said to bear W.N.W. from Battoo Barroo Point, and lies in 9 or 10 fathoms, so that a ship should not come under 12 or 13 fathoms until near the point, which is distant about 6 leagues to the E.S. Eastward of Pulo Sokum; she may then round the point in 9 or 10 fathoms, keeping it pretty close aboard, and the Island Ponchang Cacheel will be seen to the N.N. Eastward, which is the nearest island to the point. This island may be passed on either side as most convenient, and after bringing it to bear about S.W., or the hill on which the colours are hoisted S. by W.½ W., she may anchor in 7 or 7½ fathoms soft ground, about a cable's length from the island, and carry a hawser on shore to steady her, where she will be land-locked.

To approach the latter from Bencoolen.

The following directions for ships bound to Tappanooly from Bencoolen, were given by Mr. Prince, the Resident at the former place, and it is said they may be trusted to, with confidence. Make the land at the South end of Pulo Nias, which pass at a few miles distance, steer for Natal, and after discerning the Hill, which is rather low and sloping, being in 25 or 26 fathoms, steer N.N.W. and N. by W. for the Sugar Loaf. Between Natal and the Tabooyong Islands (21 to 24 miles distant) there are dangers in shore, therefore do not approach it nearer than 20 fathoms, but from Tabooyong and the Sugar Loaf, the land may be approached at discretion, as the passage is quite clear.

Gen Site of Tappanooly.

TAPPANOOLY BAY, forms an extensive harbour, or is rather subdivided into many coves or harbours, by the different islands in it, where ships may lie sheltered from all winds. Ponchang Cacheel, a little inside of the entrance, where ships generally moor, is situated in lat. 1° 40′ N., † lon. 98° 55′ E. by Capt. Cameron's chronometers. Between it and Pulo Panjang, the next island to the northward, there are 7 and 8 fathoms in a passage about ½ a mile wide. On the East side of Panjang, the harbour is spacious, the depths from 7 to 4 fathoms, with a watering place on the main to the northward: there is also good shelter to the westward of the same island, but reefs project from the North end of it and the adjoining shores, and also from the other islands beyond it, in the northern arm of the bay; notwithstanding, there are safe passages and good shelter among them, in depths from 3 to 5 fathoms. Variation 1° 18′ 33″ E. in 1822.

The village of Tappanooly is at the northern part of the bay, about 4 miles from Ponchang Cacheel; from thence, this extensive bay is continued to the westward, by a narrow channel that opens into a large lagoon, with depths in it from 2 to 3 fathoms.

* There is said to be a coral shoal, about mid-channel between Mensular and the main, with only 3½ fathoms on it, the situation of which is not correctly known. Pulo Sokum is the first small island on the coast to the northward of Tappanooly.

† The astronomers from Madras, who visited this place in 1822, made Tappanooly Island in lat. 1° 43′ 46″ N., by Stars north and south of the zenith, and in lon. 98° 41′ 17″ E. by chronometers from Madras.

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Ponchang Gadang, on the East side of the entrance of the bay, is the largest island in it, and has some steep hills covered with large timber; near the foot of these, there are several springs of fresh water. The passage betwixt this island and Ponchang Cacheel is a mile wide, with 6 or 7 fathoms close to either island, and 10 fathoms in mid-channel; between these two islands and Pulo Seeroodoot, situated about 1½ mile to the N. Eastward, the depths are from 7 to 9 fathoms, regular soundings, and the channels safe. There is good anchorage near the N.E. side of Ponchang Gadang, in 7 or 8 fathoms, to the eastward of a small island off its North end; around which, and the West, South, and East sides of Gadang, a reef projects some distance. An excellent cove stretches into the land to the eastward of Pulo Seeroodoot, having 4 and 5 fathoms water inside, and the same depths in the entrance, between the South end of that island and the main land.

Island Mensular, and harbour.

To sail between it and the islands and shoals in the offing.

MENSULAR, or MASSULAR, in lat. 1° 32′ N., is about 4 leagues in extent East and West, situated to the westward of Tappanooly Bay: it is a high island with several inlets on the North side, and contiguous to its S. E. end there is a group of islets which form a harbour, with various depths in it from 22 to 14 fathoms, over a bottom of soft white mud; and between the entrance and the group of islands near it to the southward, the depths are from 24 to, 30 fathoms, in two safe channels leading from the Eastward, and S. Westward. This harbour furnishes excellent fresh water, and the surrounding land of Mensular and adjoining islands, abound with poon spars, fit for masts or yards of any size that may be required. It is high water at.6 hours on full and change of the moon, the rise of, the tide only about 4 feet. At the North-west end of the island, there is a considerable waterfall, which issues from a high hill. If a ship coming from the northward is not bound to Tappanooly, she may, after passing Bird Island, steer for the N.W. end of Mensular, and proceed along the West side of it, which is a bold shore; but she ought not to stand far out, on account of Pulo Doa and the adjacent shoals. These are a larger and smaller isle, with some dangers near them, distant 3 and 4 leagues to the S.W. of Mensular; other dangers lie to the northward, between them and Pulo Lacotta, which are avoided by keeping well to the eastward after passing Bird Island.

The Claudine, April 12th, 1817, struck on a reef extending about 1½ mile E. by S. and W. by N., the Sugar Loaf bearing N.E. by E. about 5½ or 6 leagues, the Westernmost point of Mensular N. by E. ½ E., and Pulo Doa N.W. by N., about a cable's length from it she had 38 fathoms, and only 11 feet where she struck, which was within half a cable's length of a patch level with the water's edge, that appeared to be the eastern extremity of the reef. In a S.W. direction, at the same time, a very extensive reef of breakers was seen, with a rock above water 4 or 5 miles distant.

Sugar Loaf; to sail from Tappanooly Harbour by the southern channel.

SUGAR LOAF, in lat. 1° 34′ 54″ N. (called Nassy See Tounkas by the Malays) a small conical island bearing S.S.W. 9 miles from Ponchang Cacheel in Tappanooly Harbour, is the leading mark for ships bound out of that harbour to the southward, it being conspicuous and is the southernmost of the islands in the south part of the Great Bay of Tappanooly, situated nearly mid-way between Batoo Mama, the southern extremity of the bay, and the East end of Mensular. To the eastward of the Sugar Loaf, betwixt it and Batoo Mama Point, and Pulo Baccar, the nearest island to the N. Eastward, there is an open passage, with soundings from 14 to 19 fathoms; but as a rock lies betwixt the point and Baccar, on the East side of this passage, and from the N.W. side of the latter, likewise from the N.E. side of the Sugar Loaf, reefs project about a cable's length, the passage to the westward is generally preferred.

Departing from Tappanooly Harbour, a ship should steer about S.S.W. for the Sugar Loaf, which may be passed on either side; but the western channel betwixt it and the entrance of Mensular Harbour, is the best, being nearly 5 miles wide, with regular soundings

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22 and 23 fathoms from side to side; the Sugar Loaf being steep at the West end, with 21 and 22 fathoms close to it. When abreast of it, a southerly course should be steered until in 25 fathoms, observing not to bring it to the westward of North till this depth is obtained, to avoid a shoal of coral rocks, said to lie about 3 or 4 miles to the S. East of it.

Pulo Ely.

PULO ELY, or ILLY, an island near the main, about a mile in length, moderately high and even, bears from the Sugar Loaf about S. by E. ¾ E., distant 6 leagues; from 26 to 22 fathoms, are good depths to preserve in coasting between them, and Pulo Ely may be passed in 18 or 20 fathoms, or farther off in 24 or 25 fathoms, distant from it 4 or 5 miles. There is anchorage under this island, and it affords wood, and good water.

Zelody Islands; to sail clear of the heals on this part of the coast.

ZELODY* ISLANDS (the northernmost), are about 5 or 6 leagues to the southward of Pulo Ely; in passing along here, 24 and 25 fathoms are good depths to preserve, and as the outermost Zelody Island is a considerable way from the main, with 20 or 21 fathoms near it, a ship ought to give it a birth of 3 or 4 miles, to avoid the shoals in its vicinity. There is anchorage and shelter under these islands (being three in number) from N. Westers, with good water and cocoa-nuts upon them; but the coast between them and Cara-cara Point, is generally avoided, there being several shoals at a considerable distance from it; with Pulo Tellore, and Pulo Capechong, two small islands lying in the bight inside of them. One of the outermost and most dangerous of these shoals, on which the Syren struck, bears S. ½ E. distant 3½ leagues from the outer Zelody Island, having only 7 feet water on it, and is not always visible in fine weather. There is a passage inside of it, with anchorage, by keeping in 14 and 15 fathoms, but that on the outside is preferable. To avoid it, a ship after passing the Zelody Islands at 4 or 5 miles distance, should steer to the southward, observing to keep the outer island to the eastward of North, and not to come under 23 or 24 fathoms soft ground, until Cara-cara Point bear about E.S.E., which will carry her 2 or 3 miles outside of it, as the shoal lies in 201 fathoms water.

Natal Hill, situated on the North side of the river, appears like a gunner's quoin when it bears S. E. by E., and may be known by its barren aspect, and having low land on each side; after it is seen, it ought to be kept open with Cara-cara Point, to avoid the shoal, and a ship if not bound into Natal, should keep out in 21 or 22 fathoms in passing the shoals that front the bay. There is a coral bank about 7 leagues off Mensular, on which the Success Gally got a-ground, and had 35 fathoms close to. When on the edge of the shoal in 24 fathoms, observed lat. 1° 3½′ N., the Sugar Loaf bearing N. by E. ½ E., Pulo Illy (supposed) E. ¼ S., Pulo Nyas from W. ¼ N. to W. ½ S. distant 6 or 7 leagues.

Shoals of Natal Bay.

NATAL BAY, having in it many dangerous shoals, and the outermost of these extending nearly 2 leagues off shore into 17 or 18 fathoms water, render great care necessary, in sailing to or from the anchorage, for many ships have struck on these shoals.

The Royal Bishop's Shoal, on which the ship of that name struck, is small, with only 14 feet on the shoalest part, and lies in 17 fathoms. Cara-cara Point bears from it N.E. ¼ N., Natal Flagstaff E. ¼ S., and Pulo Tamong S. S. E. ½ E. From another shoal, having 13 or 14 feet coral on it, Cara-cara Point bears N. ¾ E., Natal Flagstaff E. by N. ¼ N., and Pulo Tamong S. by E. ½ E. The Shaftsbury Reef, on which the ship of that name was lost, is situated farther in, on the East side of the channel, and Natal Flagstaff bears from the West end of it E. by N. ¼ N. Cara-cara Shoal, on the West side of the channel, bears from Shaftsbury Reef N. by W. near 3 miles, being situated about 1½ mile S. E. ½ S. from Pulo Cara-cara, the small island near the shore to the eastward of Cara-cara Point. There are

* Properly Keladee or Cloddy, the name of a species of wild yam, with which they are said to abound.

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other shoals, the positions of which are not correctly known; ships, therefore, should keep a boat a-head sounding, when bound into the bay.

To sail into it.

Anchorage.

Ships coming from the northward, bound to the Road of Natal, after Cara-cara Point bears about E. S. E., in 19 or 20 fathoms, may steer to round it at 3 or 4 miles distance, by keeping Natal Flagstaff about E. by S., which will carry them nearly in mid-channel between the Shaftsbury and Cara-cara Shoals. When Pulo Cara-cara bears N. E. by N. they will be clear of the shoal that projects from it (betwixt which and the island there is a small channel) and may continue to steer directly toward Natal Hill until near the road, then edge a little to the southward, and anchor with the Flagstaff East or E. by N. Ships coming from the southward may pass either inside or outside of the Royal Bishop's Shoal; if they keep in 14 or 15 fathoms, soft ground, they will pass inside of it, or by keeping in 19 fathoms it will be passed on the outside; after bringing Natal Hill or Flagstaff about E. by S., (but never to the southward of E. by S. ½ S. when in 14 fathoms) they may steer in for the road as directed above. The common anchorage is from 5 to 6 fathoms, with the Flagstaff East to E. by N. ¼ N., and nearly in a direct line between Cara-cara Point and Racatt Point, which bear about N.N.W. and S.S.E. from each other, the latter forming the East side of the anchorage; and in this station, the distance from Racatt Point will be 1½ or 2 miles, and from Natal 2½ or 3 miles.

Capt. Thornhill, of the David Scott, who was at Natal in May 1825, is of opinion, that so long as the centre of Natal Hill bears between E. by S. and E. by S. ½ S. by compass, a ship will pass into the road with safety: do not approach nearer than 2½ or 3 miles to Cara-cara Point and the island of this name, to avoid the shoal that lies off the island, and when the point bears N. by W., you are within the shoals, and may then edge away gradually to the southward, until Natal Flagstaff bear E. by N., then anchor in 6 or 5 fathoms, but not under the latter depth in a large ship.

Capt. Thornhill, sounded on the edge of Cara-cara Shoal, and from 5 fathoms, shoaled suddenly to 6 feet coral rocks, Natal Hill bearing E. by S. ¾ S.

When on Racatt Shoal, in 5 feet coral bottom, Natal Hill bore N. E. ¾ N., Pulo Tamong S. ¾ E., Durian Point S. E. ¼ S., Cara-cara Hill N. by E. ¼ E., off Racatt Point about 1 or 1¼ mile.

Geo Site of Natal.

Natal is in lat. 0° 33′ 26″ N., and about lon. 99° 1¾′ E. by chronometers from Madras. Camphor, benzoin, and gold-dust, are the principal articles of export; the imports, opium, iron in flat bars, salt, piece-goods of various kinds, stick-lack, gun-powder, &c. But the road is one of the worst on the coast, being much exposed to N.W. and westerly winds.

Pulo Tamong; to sail into the Road.

PULO TAMONG, about 3½ leagues to the southward of Natal Road, near the coast, has good anchorage in 8 or 9 fathoms, between it and the main. Small vessels bound from Natal Road to the anchorage at Pulo Tamong, sometimes pass inside of the shoals, keeping near Point Racatt, and Durian Point, a little to the southward of the road; taking care not to deepen above 6 fathoms till past the latter point, on account of two shoals that lie out in 7 and 8 fathoms. It is best in a large ship, to steer out to the westward through the proper channel into 14 fathoms, and preserve this depth until Pulo Tamong is brought to bear E. S. E. or E. by S., she may then steer for the North part of that island, and after rounding it at a moderate distance, anchor with the body of it bearing about West in 6½ or 7 fathoms, distant ¼ mile from the shore. The well, containing good water, is then abreast, on the low land neat a small white sandy beach; here, fire-wood may also be got, and a ship is sheltered from westerly winds. In sailing into, or out of this place, it is prudent to keep a boat sounding a-head on the edge of the reef, that stretches out 2 or 2½ cables' lengths from the island in some parts, with 6 fathoms close to it. There is a safe passage betwixt the South end of the island and the main.

Small ships coming from the southward intending to enter Natal Road by the inner pas-

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sage, may pass in mid-channel between Pulo Tamong and the main, in 6 to 8 fathoms. When through, the course is N. by W. and N. ½ W. for Durian Point, observing not to come under 9 fathoms in passing about mid-way between it and Pulo Tamong, on account of a shoal of coral rock with 10 and 11 feet water on it, which lies in 7 or 8 fathoms. When near Durian Point, borrow into 5 or 5½ fathoms; and in steering the same course toward the road, do not exceed 6 fathoms at the utmost, in passing it and Racatt Point, on account of the shoals that lie off these points, in 6½ to 8 fathoms. The Snow Marlbro', in 1791, struck, and beat off her rudder on one of these shoals, with Racatt Point E. ½ S., Durian Point S. E. easterly, Cara-cara Hill North, Natal Hill N. E. by E., outer extreme of Pulo Tamong S.½ E., and another shoal with breakers S.W. by W. After getting off, she anchored in 7 fathoms soft ground betwixt these shoals, about 2 miles distant from Racatt Point.

Ayer Bongy Bay, adjacent islands and shoals.

AYER BONGY BAY, situated about 4 or 5 leagues to the S. Eastward of Pulo Tamong, has several islands and shoals fronting it; ships which do not intend to touch at Ayer Bongy, should keep well out in 26 to 30 fathoms water after passing Pulo Tamong, or nearer to the islets and shoals off the East end of Pulo Batoa, than to the main, to avoid a shoal or bank, with irregular soundings from 15 to 4 fathoms coral on it, or probably less, and 20 fathoms close to. It is extensive, and situated about 3 leagues S.W. by S. from Pulo Tamong, nearly mid-way betwixt the main of Sumatra and the small islands adjoining to the S. E. end of Pulo Batoa, the latter being a large island in the offing. There are three small islands off the S. E. end of Pulo Batoa, and a dangerous shoal with some of the rocks above water, about 4 miles distant from the islands; when the rocks are on with the centre of the islands, they bear S. S.W, and about a league inside of them, there are 24 fathoms hard ground.

Geo. Site.

Directions.

Ayer Bongy is in lat. 0° 11′ 42″ N. lon. 99° 21¼′ E. by chronometers, measured from Madras; and if bound there, from the anchorage under Pulo Tamong, steer about S. S. W. between the main and the island in 5 and 6 fathoms soft ground, keeping rather nearest to the latter; from this island to Oojong Lalloo, the West point of Ayer Bongy Bay, pass inside of the shoal mentioned above, by steering along the coast in 9 or 10 fathoms, which will be about 1½ or 2 miles off shore. By keeping in these depths, the shoal to the S. W. of Pulo Tamong will be avoided, and the shore, which in this space contains some bays or concavities, is safe to approach to 5½ or 6 fathoms.

The sea breaks on some of the shoals off Ayer Bongy Bay, when there is much swell, and between most of them there are safe channels, but the shoals are not always discernible when the sea is smooth. About 4 miles off Oojong Lalloo, with Pulo Pancal E. S. E.½ S., there is a dangerous shoal, having only 9 feet on the shoalest part, and 14 to 17 fathoms near it on the outside. The Prince Henry struck, and beat off her rudder on this shoal in the night when running for Aver Bongy, after having anchored in the evening in 17 fathoms hard ground, and parted from two anchors, by the rocks cutting the cables in blowing weather. Great care is requisite in passing Oojong Lalloo, for several shoals front this part of the coast, the situations of which are imperfectly known. The ship Sylph beat off her rudder upon one of them in 1796, with the outer extreme of Pulo Tamong bearing N. N. W., and the point with a small island near it, commonly called Oojong Lalloo, N. by W. westerly, 2 or 3 miles distant. Most of these shoals are from 2 to 4 miles off Oojong Lalloo, and bear between S. by E. and S. S. E. from Pulo Tamong. There is a passage inside of all of them, by keeping within 1½ or 2 miles of the main, in from 4 to 6 fathoms soft ground, when passing Oojong Lalloo and the two next points to the S. Eastward, then proceeding between Pulo Panjang and the main, to the anchorage under that island. This passage seems improper for large ships, and vessels of every description, by whatever channel they enter Ayer Bongy Bay, must keep a good look out for the numerous shoal. Pulo Panjang, in lat.

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0° 12′ N., lon. 99° 17′ 10″ E. by chronometers from Madras in 1822, is the largest island in the bay.

Anchorage.

The small Island Pulo Tanca, lies near Oojong Lalloo, betwixt which and Pulo Panca, or Pancal, situated about a league southward from the former, the passage is safe, and the depths 10 or 11 fathoms soft bottom; the passage into the bay is also safe to the eastward of Pulo Pancal, between it and Pulo Tellore, in lat. 0° 7′ 16″ N., situated at the S. E. part of the bay; and there is also a channel with 6 and 7 fathoms water in it, betwixt that island and Oojong Seecarboa, the S. Eastern extremity of the bay. A ship having entered the bay by the most convenient passage, may steer for Ayer Bongy Flagstaff, situated on a bluff point or hill at the S. E. part of the bay, close to the North end of which, is the river and landing place. The common anchorage is abreast of the river bearing E. by N. ½ N., distant about a league, in 4½ or 5 fathoms good ground. There is also anchorage under Pulo Panjang, the largest island in the bay, bearing about W. by S. from Ayer Bongy River, having a reef with breakers to the northward of it about a mile. Betwixt this island and Pulo Jambo or Sambo, a small island to the westward, there is said to be a clear passage. To the northward of Pullo Tellore there is a reef with breakers, and another to the eastward near the main, which require care in passing through the channels contiguous to that island.

Shoals to the southward of it.

To the southward of Ayer Bongy South point, which is of bluff appearance, there are several shoals; ships bound from that anchorage to the S. Eastward, generally keep inside near the coast, until clear of them. Two of these shoals bear S. E. ¾ E. from Pulo Tellore,* and lie close together; from a small hill to the southward of Oojong Seecarbo (called also Oojong Gading), they bear S. S. W., and are distant from the point about 4 miles. There is a channel between these and another small shoal bearing S. S. E. 1 mile from them, having in it 14 and 16 fathoms. H. M. S. Drake, September 1st, 1809, struck on a small coral shoal, with the peak of Mount Ophir E. by N., Pulo Tellore North, Lalloo Point N. W., off shore 3 leagues, having close to it 23 fathoms soft mud.

Geo. Site of Mount Ophir

MOUNT OPHIR, in lat. 0° 4′ 58″ N., lon. 100° 0′ 15″ E. by chronometers from Madras, situated about 8 leagues inland, to the eastward of Oojong Seecarboa, appears like an obtuse cone by itself, separated from the chain of other mountains, and may be seen 110 miles in clear weather, it being the highest mountain on Sumatra visible from the sea. A Volcano Mountain to the southward, about 9 or 10 leagues inland, is somewhat less elevated.

Shoals in the offing.

To the southward of Ayer Bongy Shoals, there appear to be other shoals in the offing abreast of Passamane Bay, one of which about 2 cables lengths in diameter, is thought to have 3 fathoms on the shoalest part, with 21 and 22 fathoms close to it all round; the Prince Henry got on it and saw the rocks along side, with Oojong Seecarboa bearing N. by W. ½ W., the largest of Ooojong Massing Hills E. by S., and a small hummock East, taken for the true point, the trees on the low land just visible from the deck, distant about 5 leagues. This shoal, consisting of black coral, is not easily discerned.

In the Luconia, high breakers were seen on another shoal, bearing about S. W. by W. from Oojong Massing, which was thought to be about 6 leagues off shore, but Captain Bennet thinks it lies 8 or 9 leagues from the shore. With the largest of the Massing Hills E. by N., there is said to be a shoal with breakers about 5 miles off shore, in 15 or 16 fathoms water.

Oojong Massang and hills.

OOJONG MASSANG (or Point Massang), situated in lat. 0° 17′ S. nearly, and about 10 leagues S. E. by E. from Ayer Bongy Bay, has a reef of foul ground stretching out about 2 or 2½ miles, which should not be approached under 17 fathoms; and near the point, are the three Massing Hills, the middle or largest having a tabular form, and the others resemble

* These shoals are said by another navigator, to bear S. E. by S. from Pulo Tellore in a line; the southern most, distant from it about 4 miles. There are others about 6 miles to the S. Eastward of that island.

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hay-cocks. Between this place and the South point of Ayer Bongy Bay, which is of middling height, the coast is low, and forms the Bay of Passamane.

To pass inside the shoals;

If a ship departing from Ayer Bongy Road, intend to proceed to the southward inside of the shoals, where the lead is a good guide and the anchorage safe, she ought to keep in from 5 to 8 fathoms, within 2 miles of the shore until abreast of Oojong Seecarboa, and pass this point about 1 mile distant; she may then in day-light, borrow toward the shoals to 12 fathoms, but not under 9 fathoms toward the main, after the point bears about N. N. E., when turning to windward. When 3 leagues to the S. E. of Pulo Tellore, she may stand out to 15 or 16 fathoms, and keep in these depths, or steer a course for Oojong Massang, without hauling into Passamane Bay under 12 fathoms, or approaching too near the shoals in the offing, observing not to come under 17 fathoms in passing Oojong Massang.

and outside of them.

To pass outside of the dangers, after being clear of the shoal 3 leagues S. W. by S. from Pulo Tamong, a ship ought to keep well out in 25 or 26 fathoms, gradually rounding the shoals off Ayer Bongy; having cleared these, she should haul to the eastward to make Oojong Massang Hills, and round that point at 3 miles distance in 17 or 18 fathoms, then keep in 17 to 20 fathoms for the outer Ticoo Island, observing to round it on the West side within a mile, in 16 or 17 fathoms. A ship departing from Ayer Bongy Bay, should, if this passage be adopted, sail out between Pulo Pancal and Pulo Tellore, then steer S. by E. and S. S. E. until in 24 or 25 fathoms, and not come under 20 fathoms until near Oojong Massang; a good look out is necessary, for the 3 fathoms shoal of the Prince Henry, mentioned above.

Ticoo Islands channels, and dangers near them.

TICOO ISLANDS, distant about 3 leagues to the S. E. of Oojong Massang, are three in number, small and woody, about 1½ mile apart, and the innermost is the same distance from the main. The proper channel is within a mile of the West and South sides of the outer island, in 15 to 17 fathoms, to avoid a shoal bearing from it about S.W. by W. 4 miles in 25 fathoms, over which the swell may be seen to roll when it is abreast, if there is much sea: another shoal lies S. W. about 5 leagues from the outer Ticoo Island, no ground.50 fathoms near it. Should night be approaching, a ship may anchor in 9 or 10 fathoms, with the outermost island bearing West, distant about ½ a mile. This island is in lat. 0° 23′ S., and bears S. E. ½ S. from Oojong Seecarboa:

In coming near to these islands from the southward, breakers appear, which seem to deny any safe passage among them; but betwixt the inner and middle islands, there is a safe channel on either side of a small coral bank about a cable's length in diameter, situated about ¼ of a mile from the innermost, and about a ¼ of a mile from the middle island. It is steep to, all round, with 7, 8, and 9 fathoms betwixt it and the middle island, but the passage on this side is very much contracted by a spit projecting near 2 cables' lengths from the N. E. end of the island. This passage between it and the inner island has good room for anchoring occasionally, with soundings 6½ and 7 fathoms near the small bank, to 6 and 5 fathoms close to the island, over a soft bottom. From the South end of the inner island a shoal stretches out near a ¼ mile, with 5½ fathoms soft ground close to, which must be avoided by a ship that adopts the inner channel, just described. To the southward of the middle island, distant about ½ a mile, the sea breaks on some rocks, to which a proper birth must be given, in ships that run under these islands for shelter from N. W. winds.

Dangers from thence southwards.

To the southward of the Ticoo Islands there are several shoals, and a great many others well out in the offing, lie scattered from hence to the southward of Priaman, which may be considered the most dangerous part of the coast.

Pulo Cassey, the passage and shoals, with directions.

PULO CASSEY, or Cassiqua, in about lat. 0° 36′ S., bearing about S. E. 6 or 7 leagues from the Ticoo Islands, is covered with trees, very small, with a sandy beach, and distant about a league from the main. The passage in this track, inside of the principal shoals, is generally considered the best, by keeping in from 16 to 12 or 10 fathoms, and the coast is

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safe to approach to 6 or 7 fathoms in many places: Some navigators state, that there are no shoals under 16 fathoms on this part of the coast; others assert that some shoals are situated near it in 5 or 6 fathoms. The best guide, therefore, is, after leaving the Ticoo Islands, to keep in soft ground from 16 to 10 or 11 fathoms, for the bottom is all soft, except when near a shoal.

The coast from the Ticoo Islands to Pulo Cassey is a little hilly, and lies about S. E. by E. A shoal flat projects out nearly 2 miles in some places, on which the depths decrease regularly to 5 fathoms about 2 miles off shore. Exclusive of the shoal to the S. Westward of the outer Ticoo Island, already mentioned, the others bounding the passage on the West side, are one bearing about S. S. E. from the outer Ticoo Island, and nearly N. W. by W. from Pulo Cassey; when the breakers on it bore from West to N. W., distant about 2 miles, the depth was 16 fathoms; another, on which the sea sometimes breaks, bearing about S. E. by S. from the outer Ticoo Island, and nearly N. W. by W. from Pulo Cassey, with 20 fathoms close to it on the East side; and there is one with 3 fathoms on it, bearing S. S. E. southerly from the outer Ticoo Island, and N. W. ¾ W. from the northernmost of the three Priaman Islands, being that nearest to Pulo Cassey. Betwixt some of these shoals, there are safe channels; the Duke had no ground 35 fathoms in passing between two of them, about 5 leagues S. S. E. from the Ticoo Islands.

Priaman Islands, the channels and adjacent shoals.

PRIAMAN ISLANDS, three in number, situated abreast of the settlement of the same name on the main, about a league distant, afford shelter from N. W. or Westerly winds, and the northernmost has on it a well of fresh water, where ships are supplied. From this, the middle island is distant about 1½ mile to the S. S. W., with 7 fathoms water in the channel between them; but a reef of breakers projects about 2 cables' lengths from the West part of the northern island, with 7 fathoms close to it. The channel inside of the northernmost island having only 3½ fathoms near the island, and decreasing gradually toward the main, is only fit for small ships. From the middle island, the southernmost one is distant 2 miles to the S. S. Eastward; and each of them is about ½ a mile in extent. There are several shoals about 2 or 3 miles to the westward of these islands, on which the sea breaks in bad weather, having 14 or 15 fathoms near them; but betwixt them and the islands the passage is safe, by keeping near the latter, in from 10, to 6 or 7 fathoms. The northernmost of this chain or group of shoals, bears West from Pulo Cassey 2 or 3 miles, with a safe channel betwixt it and that island, in soundings 12 or 14 fathoms. On the East side of Pulo Cassey there is also a safe channel, with 6 fathoms near the island, decreasing regularly from 5 fathoms about ½ a mile from it, to 3 and 2 fathoms about ½ a mile from the main. To the N. N. E. of this island, more than half way to the main, there is said to be some rocks, with 4 fathoms on the outside of them.

Priaman River.

PRIAMAN FLAGSTAFF, in about lat. 0° 40′ S., bears nearly S. E. ½ E., 8 miles from Pulo Cassey; the river is small, and the entrance so shoal, that a pinnace cannot go in until near high water, and even then not without danger. A little way out from the mouth of the river there is a bank, having on its North and South ends two patches of sand above water; within it, there are 2 fathoms sandy bottom.

To sail from the Ticoo Islands, to Priaman and Padang by the Inner Passage.

If you intend to proceed by the inner passage from the Ticoo Islands to Priaman or Padang, after having steered along the coast in from 16 to 8 or 10 fathoms, you may, when Pulo Cassey is approached, pass on either side of it at a small distance, as the wind will best permit, then steer through betwixt the middle and northernmost Priaman Islands, and anchor inside, under the shelter of them. If bound to Padang, continue to keep near to the East sides of the middle and southernmost islands in passing them, and steer along the coast at a moderate distance until Pulo Ayer is approached, there being no danger in this part.

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There is a passage inside of that island, but it is advisable to pass about 2 or 3 miles distance on the outside, to avoid a shoal said to lie S. S. W. from it; when clear of this shoal, a direct course may be steered for Padang Flagstaff, or for the anchorage under Pulo Pisang, should unfavorable weather be apprehended, where ships are sheltered from N. W. and Westerly winds, this being the proper road.

Pulo Ayer, or Sow Island (called also Pulo Carong), distant about 1½ mile from the shore, and 3 leagues to the N. W. of Padang Head, is small, with a reef projecting from its South end about a ¼ mile: a shoal is thought to lie S. E. from it, and another to the S. S. Westward, stretching out a great way.

Padang Islands.

PADANG ISLANDS are situated well out in the offing, seven in number, having several dangers amongst them. They are named numerally, Pulo Sato or 1st, Pulo Dua 2d, Pulo Teega 3d, Pulo Ampat 4th, Pulo Leema.5th, Pulo Annam 6th, and Puloo Toojoo the 7th.

Pulo Sato, the easternmost, is small, high, and flat, distant about 2½ leagues to the W. N. W. of Pulo Pisang, and has a reef off its N. E. point about a mile, or rather an island just forming, called Pulo Passier.

Pulo Dua is a little larger than Sato, and lies to the S. W., having a safe passage between them.

Pulo Teega, about 4 miles to the southward of Dua, and 3 leagues to the W. S. W. of Pisang, is the largest of these islands, breakers and foul ground stretch from it a great way to the N. Eastward, nearly shutting up the passage betwixt it and Pulo Dua, which is thought to he dangerous.

Pulo Ampat, about the size of Dua, lies to the westward, bearing from Pulb Leema S.W. ½ S.

Pulo Leema, one of the innermost islands, bearing about N. W. from Pulo Pisang and Pulo Sato, is small; a reef is said to project from it about 2 miles to the S. W.; another to lie 2 or 3 miles to the N. E.; one navigator says, E. S. E. 2 miles from it; but on the North side it is clear, and there is thought to be a safe passage betwixt it and Pulo Sato.

Pulo Annam, bearing from Pulo Leema W. ½ S., is of considerable size, and appears the last island in coming from the southward, as Toojoo is not then in sight; to the northward, and also betwixt it and Ampat, there is said to be shoals.

Pulo Toojoo, the northernmost of these islands, is nearly of the size of the former, and bears S. S.W. ½ W. from Pulo Cassey, to the northward of the Priamans. A coral bank, bearing N.W. by W. about 3 leagues from it, should be approached with caution; for it is steep from no ground to 10, 7 and 5 fathoms, and there may be less water on it. Close to, and amongst all these islands, the water is deep, and there is no good anchorage.

Geo. Site of Padang Head, the river, and adjacent coast.

PADANG HEAD, in lat. 0° 56′ S., about lon. 100° 12′ E., having on it the Flagstaff, is a high bluff head-land, with a rock close to it called the Whale, and forms the S. W. side of the river's entrance; about a mile up on the North bank, the fort and town are situated, but there are also houses and gardens on the opposite side. Bullocks, poultry, various fruits, and vegetables, may be got here at moderate prices; and excellent water issuing from the rocks on the South side of the river, which is conveyed in spouts to the boats.

The river is only navigable by boats or small vessels in fine weather, the depths at low water being 8 and 9 feet at the entrance, and from 9 to 14 feet a little way inside, and the rise of tide is about 2½ feet on the springs. It is very dangerous to enter the river when the wind blows strong at West or N. W., for the sea then breaks entirely across the entrance, and a continued breaker extends from Padang Head to the S. W. point of the shoal that stretches nearly from it to within ½ a mile of the North end of Pulo Pisang. This place is

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in possession of the Dutch,* from which gold-dust, benzoin, and other articles are exported, in exchange for opium, blue and white cloth, and other piece-goods.

In approaching it from the offing, the head will easily be known by its bluff aspect, and the coast from it southward, being all bold high land; whereas, the land near the sea to the northward of the river is low, and all the coast is low from thence to Priaman, but far in the country the land is generally high.

Anchorage.

A ship arriving when the weather is favorable, and intending to remain very little time, may anchor in 12 or 13 fathoms soft ground, with the flagstaff bearing E. ½ N. or East, distant from the bluff headland 1¼ or 1½ mile. If the weather is threatening, or the stay to be 3 or 4 days, it will be prudent to proceed to the proper road, under Pulo Pisang.

Pulo Pisang.

PULO PISANG, about 2 miles S. by W. from Padang Head, is a small island about ½ a mile in diameter, where water may be got by digging wells 4 or 5 feet deep, at the foot of the hills; which although soft and pleasant to taste, is said to be impregnated with salt petre, and not very wholesome: the firewood is also indifferent. The rocky coral bank stretching about 40 yards from the shore of this island, is steep to, all round, and at the N. E. part there is a wharf for the convenience of landing: ships trading to Padang, moor close to the East and S. E. sides of the island, sheltered from N. W. and. Westerly winds. When these winds prevail, boats cannot pass between Padang River and the ships under Pulo Pisang, on account of the breakers stretching across the passage.

The Channels.

To sail to the anchorage.

All round Pulo Pisang there is a safe passage of 6 and 7 fathoms, but it is narrow in some places, particularly betwixt the North end of the island and the extensive shoal bank that occupies most of the space between it and Padang Head, on the shoalest part of which are only 2¼ and 2½ fathoms hard sand; this passage is not above ⅓ of a mile wide, and is seldom used by large ships. The deepest water is close, or near to Pulo Pisang; a ship to enter by the North channel, must bring the island well to the eastward, and round the North end in 7 or 8 fathoms about the distance of a cable's length, or little more: the water will shoal as she runs in, to 6 and 5 fathoms, which is the least near the island; but toward the main, and Pulo Pisang Kecheel (or Little Pulo Pisang) lying near it to the eastward, the depths decrease to 4 and 3 fathoms hard sand. Having rounded the island close, and brought the wharf to bear W. by N. or W. N.W., she may moor in 5½ or 6 fathoms, about 2 cables' lengths from the island. Large ships should always use the other channel in proceeding to the anchorage under Pulo Pisang, by steering direct for the West side of the island, and rounding it on the South side about a ¼ mile distant; after bringing the body of the island to bear about N.W. by W., they may anchor and moor in 5 or 5 ½ fathoms mud, about 2 cables' lengths from it, where they will be well sheltered from westerly winds.

To sail from Ticoo Islands, outside the other islands to Pulo Pisang.

DEPARTING from the TICOO ISLANDS for Padang, if not intending to touch at Priaman, ships frequently pass outside of the Priaman Islands and shoals, which is by some persons thought the best route. If it is adopted, keep in from 16 to 12 fathoms until within 5 or 6 miles of Pulo Cassey, then steer out betwixt the shoals which lie to the westward of that island, and those to the southward of the Ticoo Islands, until in 35 or 40 fathoms, and from hence steer to the southward for Pulo Toojoo; after passing near it on the East side, steer to pass Pulo Leema and Pulo Sato, also on the same sides, and from thence to the anchorage under Pulo Pisang. If the wind is contrary, you ought not in working inside of these islands, to borrow toward the main in the bight to the southward of Pulo Ayer, where there is said to be a shoal; nor too near the other shoal, to the S. S. Westward of that island

* And the whole of the settlements on the Coast of Sumatra are now possessed by the Dutch, in conformity with the late treaty.

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And from Oojong Lalloo to it.

OUTER PASSAGE, from Oojong Lalloo (the West point of Ayer Bongy Bay) to Padang, seems preferable to any other with a fair wind, but as the current near this coast generally runs with it, this passage is not to be recommended in contrary winds, particularly when bound to the northward, for it is destitute of anchorage. If you adopt this route, at passing Pulo Tamong, keep well over toward the islets off the S. E. end of Pulo Batoa, to avoid the bank nearly mid-way betwixt them and the main: having brought them to bear about N. W., steer to fall in with Pulo Toojoo. You may pass to the eastward of it, Pulo Leema, and Pulo Sato, then steer for the anchorage under Pulo Pisang, as directed above; or if it seem preferable with the prevailing wind, you may steer to the southward, outside of Pulo Toojoo, Pulo Annam, and Pulo Ampat, then to the eastward betwixt Pulo Dua and Pulo Sato, keeping near to the latter in passing, to avoid the 2 fathoms shoal, that lies about 4 miles S. by E. ¼ E. from it, and from the South point of Pulo Pisang W. by S. southerly 2 leagues. From Pulo Sato, steer direct for the anchorage under Pulo Pisang. It would be imprudent to attempt to pass betwixt Pulo Dua and Pulo Teega, for the rocks stretching across, seem to deny any safe passage that way.

or to Moco Moco.

If bound to Moco Moco, and not to touch at Padang, you should continue to keep outside of all the inner islands adjoining to the coast, between which and the chain of large islands in the offing, there is a safe channel from 10 to 12 leagues wide; but a small dry sand, about a or 4 leagues N. W. from Pulo Musquito, and nearly the same distance from Pulo Toojoo, must be avoided. It will be proper to keep nearest to the inner islands, and make Indrapour Point, to prevent being driven to leeward when northerly winds prevail.

To sail from Padang to the northward.

TO SAIL from PULO PISANG to the NORTHWARD by the MIDDLE PASSAGE, the course is N. W. by N., to pass between Pulo Leema and Pulo Ayer about mid-channel, in soundings 22 to 26 fathoms; by which, the shoal projecting E. S. E. 2 miles from Pulo Leema, and the coral patches near Pulo Ayer, will be avoided. Having passed these islands, there is no more danger till the Priaman Islands are approached, and the coast may be borrowed, on to 10 or 12 fathoms, when it is necessary to anchor.

On drawing near to the Priaman Islands, it is requisite to haul out for pulo Toojoo, to avoid a large shoal bearing W. S.W. 2 miles from the outer Priaman Island. When well over toward Pulo Toojoo, a N. W. ½ W. or N. W. by W. course should be steered, to avoid the shoal bearing W. N.W. from that island, and others lying in 30 and 35 fathoms, toward the shore. When 5 leagues to the N.W. of Pulo Toojoo, it is requisite to haul in again toward the main, to make the outer Ticoo Island, for a shoal bears S.W. from it about 5 leagues, having no ground near it with 50 fathoms line; and another shoal bears W. S. W. from it about 3 miles.* Being clear of these, a course about N.W. by W. should be steered to pass between the small islands off the S. E. end of Pulo Batoa and Oojong Lalloo, taking care to keep between 25 and 30 fathoms, for in 20 and 22 fathoms, lie several shoals; and in 34 fathoms, a very large and dangerous one. The soundings, therefore, must be the principal guide, in this run of about 15 leagues; which may be pursued night or day, with proper attention to the lead, and preserving the depths mentioned.

When Pulo Batoa is seen bearing about N.W. by W. or W. N. W., it is proper to steer well over for the islands off its S. E. end, the depths will be from 16 to 20 fathoms, and when within 4 or 5 miles of them, a course about N.W. by N. should be steered until past the shoals off Natal; for it would be imprudent to come under 22 fathoms between Pulo Batoa and the Sugar Loaf, at the South entrance of Tappanooly Bay. If not bound into that port, Mensular may be passed on the outside at a small distance, to avoid the shoals in the offing. There is no danger in the channel inside of that island, except a shoal in 9 or 10

* Another account places it S.W. by W. 4 miles, and Capt. Bennet says it lies S.W. 4 miles from the Ticoo Islands.

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fathoms near the main, about 1/3 of the distance from Battoo Barroo Point, toward Pulo Sokum. From Mensular, the best course is about W. N. W., preserving soundings of 26 to 27 fathoms, by which the Triangle Shoals, and several others in shore, will be avoided. When the depths increase to 28 or 29 fathoms, a N.W. course will be proper, not coming under 22 or 23 fathoms: Pulo Lacotta will be seen, and the small sand bank bearing N. ½ W. from it, called Bird Island, is said to lie in 31 fathoms, having a reef extending to the N.W. 1 ½ or 2 miles. Sinkel Point, forming a bluff, covered with trees, will be next discerned, which may be passed about the distance of 4 miles, the depths then decreasing to 18 or 19 fathoms. Passage Island will soon be seen to the N. Westward, and the greatest caution is requisite in this part, particularly if the wind is contrary; sailing toward the island, it should be kept between N. N. W. and N. W. by N., in soundings 16 to 14 fathoms, for about ½ way betwixt it and the main, the middle bank extends nearly N. W. and S. E., having great overfalls upon it, in some places only 2 ½ fathoms rocks. With a leading wind, Passage Island N.W. by N. is the best bearing until within about ½ a mile of it, and then it may be rounded about this distance on the East side. Being through this intricate passage, a course about N. W. should be steered, then toward any of the northern ports, as circumstances require; but great care is requisite in passing between lat. 3° to 4° N., for there are many shoals interspersed along the coast adjacent to Soosoo Bay, and to the southward of it; and some others lie 9 or 10 miles off shore, with no ground 50 and 60 fathoms close to them on the outside. These outer shoals seem to lie on the edge of the bank of soundings, one of them is in lat. 3° 4′, and another in 3° 30′ N., already mentioned in the preceding section.

4th. COAST, ISLANDS, AND SHOALS, FROM PADANG TO FORTMARLBOROUGH, WITH SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Coast from Padang southward.

FROM PADANG, to the distance of 8 or 9 leagues southward, the coast is intersected by numerous bays and inlets, several of which, being protected from the sea by the islands contiguous to them, form excellent harbours. The land near the sea is generally of moderate height, and farther in the country, it is more elevated.

Boongas bay contiguous isles and dangers.

BOONGAS BAY, about 5 or 6 miles to the S. E. of Pulo Pisang is a safe harbour, with 14 or 15 fathoms in the entrance, and from 10 to 6 fathoms inside; but there being a shoal; nearly in the middle of the bay, about a large. ¼ mile to the eastward of the small island Pulo Cassee, it is proper for a ship going in, to keep near the North point, and anchor between that side and the island, where she will be well sheltered. There is a shoal to the N. N. E. of Pulo Cassee, near the North side of the bay; but a ship may, by keeping near the island, pass in safety between it and either of those shoals, and anchor to the eastward of it, if she is to go so far inside. At the S. E. angle of the bay there is a harbour or cove with 12 to 6 fathoms in it, secured from all winds, having shoal water projecting from the point and island that form the N. E. side of its entrance. There are villages all round this bay, and from thence to Padang. About W. by N. 1 ¾ mile from the North point of the bay, lies a dangerous rock, with 15 and 16 fathoms close to it, between which and Pulo Teloor, a small island about a mile to the N. E. there is a safe passage; but it is best to pass outside of the rock in 17 or 18 fathoms, and after bringing the entrance of Boongas Bay to bear East, or the middle of a small hill at the bottom of it, on with a high hill inland, a ship is clear to the southward of the rock, and may steer direct for the bay; and when in the entrance, she must borrow toward the northern aide, to avoid the shoal a little inside, already mentioned.

There is a point of land about 2 miles to the E. S. E. of Pulo Pisang, that forms the North extreme of Brandy Wine Bay, opposite to Pulo Teloor; when that point is in one with a small hill near it, bearing N. by E. easterly, the same transit line passes over the rock

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mentioned above, and touches the West part of Pulo Seronda, or Bobeck, then on the opposite bearing.

Pulo senaro and surrouning dangers.

PULO SENARO, or LACRONE, bears S. S. W. westerly from Pulo Pisang, distant about 6 miles, from which a reef, always visible, bears S.W. by W. westerly about a league, being nearly mid-way between it and the 2 fathoms shoal, mentioned to the southward of Pulo Sato in the preceding section. The water is deep, from 35 to 40 fathoms around these shoals, and between them and the adjoining islands; if therefore, the shoals are seen, or their positions known, a ship may pass between them with safety.

From Pulo Senaro about a large mile to the N. E., there is another shoal, having on it 3 fathoms, and about 2 miles S. E. by S. from the same island, there is a shoal nearly midway betwixt it and Pulo Seronda; another shoal is said to lie about a league nearly S. by W. from the former island.

To sail from Pulo Pisang to seaward;

Being bound from Pulo Pisang to the southward, and wishing to run out speedily clear of the islands into the open sea, a ship may steer to the S. W. to pass close on the N.W. side of Pulo Senaro, betwixt it and the reef that is always visible, observing, when the island is approached within 2 miles on the N. E. side, to give a birth to the 3 fathoms shoal, by edging a little to the westward, and avoiding a direct line that passes through Pulo Pisang and Padang Head, which also passes through the shoal. To pass out to the southward of Pulo Senaro, when distant 2 miles, it should be brought to bear S. W. by W. or W. S. W., a direct course (about S.W.) may then be steered to pass close to its South point, and the same course continued about 2 or 3 miles beyond it, will carry a ship clear of the two shoals mentioned to the S. E. and southward.

The snow, Marlbro', struck on a shoal, with only from 6 to 9 feet water over the coral rock, Pulo Pisang bearing N. N. W., Pulo Senaro S. W. ½ W., distance off the main 3 miles. The same vessel saw a sandy patch above water, surrounded by a large coral reef, bearing in one with Pulo Senaro S. E. ½ E., distant from that island 4 or 5 miles, Padang Head bore at the same time N. E. by E.

The Research found only 2 ¼ fathoms on a shoal, with Pulo Senaro bearing North, and Pulo Pergany E. S. E. This vessel had ¼ less 4 fathoms on another shoal, with Pulo Senaro bearing N. W., distant 2 ½ miles, and Pulo Seronda S. E. ½ S. Pulo Pergany bearing East 4 or 5 miles, saw breakers on a shoal in one with Padang Head N. by E. Had 5 fathoms rocks on another shoal, with Pulo Niamo bearing N.W., Pulo Ayer Besar E. by S., and Pulo Baby Besar about E. N. E.

or from it to the southward.

THE BEST ROUTE from Pulo Pisang when bound southward, is to steer, for Pulo Seronda (or Bobeck) bearing from it nearly South, distant 8 miles, taking care with a working wind to keep Pulo Pisang to the northward of N. N. W. in standing toward the rock off Boongas Bay. When near Pulo Seronda she may steer about S. S. W. along the West sides of it, Pulo Bintango, and Pulo Marra, the next islands to the southward, and on either side of Pulo Niamo, or Musquito, a small island in the offing, distant about 3 leagues S. by W. ¾ W. from Pulo Seronda. There is also a narrow, but bold and safe passage inside of these islands, which, having soundings from 20 to 36 fathoms, is generally adopted as the best; the only known danger in it is a shoal near ½ a mile E. N. Eastward from Pulo Oolar, a small island about mid-channel between Bintango and Marra. Betwixt the shoal and a spit projecting from the North point of Pulo Oolar, there is a safe passage, and it lies rather nearer to the islands on the East side of the channel than to Pulo Oolar; but the channel outside of Pulo Oolar, between it Bintango and Marra, is clear of danger.

Pulo Marra and the adjoining islands.

PULO MARRA, in about lat. 1° 12′ S., and 1 ¼ mile in extent, is inhabited, and affords good water; there is anchorage in a small bay, formed between the N. E. point and a reef

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that projects from an islet to the southward. There is also anchorage under Pulo Bintango, or Pergany, the middle island on the outside of the channel; and under all those contiguous to the main, that form the East side of the channel, there is anchorage from 10 to 20 fathoms, and shelter from N.W. or westerly winds.

Soongey Peesang Bay.

Opposite to these islands there are three bays or harbours on the main of Sumatra; the northernmost, Soongey Peesang Bay, bearing about E. by N. from Pulo Seronda, has two rocks in the entrance, with 1¼ and 2 fathoms water on them; between them and the northern shore, close to the latter, there is a narrow passage with 15 and 17 fathoms, decreasing inside to 8 and 9 fathoms: there is also a narrow passage between the islets that lie off its entrance and the southern point of the bay, but this place is not very safe for large ships.

Soongey Peenang Bay.

Soongey Peenang Bay, bearing about N. E. from Pulo Marra, is safe to enter, by steering in about mid-channel, or borrowing toward the northern side at discretion; in this bay a ship is sheltered from mostly every wind, it being only a little open to S. S.Westward, and the depths are from 16 fathoms in the middle, to 7 or 8 near the shore, decreasing to 4 and 3 fathoms in the North part.

Pulo Saytan Harbour to sail into it.

PULO SAYTAN HARBOUR, formed inside of the two large islands Pulo Sabadda and Pulo Troosan, is about 5 miles in extent, N.W. and S. E., and very safe, the depths in it generally from 16 to 8 or 9 fathoms, soft bottom. There are two passages into it, the northern one about 1/3 of a mile wide, bearing East northerly from the North end of Pulo Marra, and close to the mouth of Soongey Peenang Bay; to enter the harbour by this passage, a ship must keep to the northward into the mouth of that bay, to avoid a 2 fathoms rocky shoal about a large ½ mile West from the North bluff point of Pulo Sabadda, which forms the South side of the entrance. This bluff point, the rocky shoal, and North point of Pulo Marra, are on the same transit line, bearing nearly East and West of each other, a ship must therefore, keep to the northward of that line in approaching the entrance of the harbour, which is safe after having passed the shoal. The South entrance, about E. S. E. from the South end of Pulo Marra, has in it two islands, and an islet farther out close to Pulo Sabadda, which forms the North side, as Pulo Troosan does the opposite: the best passage is betwixt the two islands in the entrance, that between the southernmost and Pulo Troosan is also safe, with soundings from 10 to 20 fathoms, and they are about 1/6 of a mile wide; between the northernmost island and Pulo Sabadda, there is no passage. Pulo Troosan appears as a projecting part of the main, and is separated from it by a very narrow passage, with 3 feet water in it. Pulo Saytan, in the middle of the harbour, is nearly surrounded by shoal water and islets; the N. E. arm of the harbour to the northward of that island, is full of shoals, and should be avoided. E. by N. from it, upon the main, and close to the shore, there is a watering place.

To sail from Pulo Marra southward,

to Pulo Chence.

DEPARTING from PULO MARRA, it is proper to steer to the S. Eastward, passing near the West point of Pulo Troosan, and from thence on either side of Pulo Babee-kecheet, a small island about 2½ miles to the southward of Troosan. Having passed near to this island, to avoid the shoal in the offing, a S. Easterly course may be continued between Pulo Babee besar and Pulo Ayer, in moderate depths from 25 to 16 fathoms: from these islands, the Flagstaff of Pulo Chenco may be seen upon a round hill to the E. N. E., toward which, a ship intending to touch there ought to steer, leaving the small islands Samanky and Cassee, to the northward, and she may anchor off Pulo Chenco in 12 fathoms. There is a harbour or cove inside of the island, with two passages leading to it; the proper one on the South side of the island, has 9 and 10 fathoms water, and there are from 7 to 4, or 5 fathoms inside, in the harbour. This is a place of considerable trade, and has a wharf for the convenience of lading and unlading goods. To the northward lies Chenco Bay, containing regular soundings, and good anchorage at the N.W. part, close to Loompoor Village.

VOL. II. K

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Pulo Ayer neighbouring islands and channels.

PULO AYER BESAR, in lat. 1° 24′ S., is the residence of a Malay Chief, and bas on it a conspicuous round hill; on the South side of it, is Pulo Ayer kecheel, also inhabited, and a rocky shoal projects from it nearly to the former island. The channel inside of these islands, and to the southward of Pulo Babee besar and the two small islands to the eastward, is 3 miles wide, and very safe. There is also a safe passage contiguous to the main, inside of Pulo Babee besar, Samanky and Cassee, by keeping nearest to the island, in from 7 to 10, or 12 fathoms. Pulo Babee Bay, to the northward of the islands of that pane, and on the East side of Pulo Troosan, has regular soundings, and is sheltered from N.W and West winds. At Pulo Babee besar, wood and water, poultry and sheep, may be procured.

Coral shoals.

About a league South from Pulo Marra, and about the same distance E. N. E. from Pulo Niamo, or Muskito, a small isle in the offing, there is a rocky bank with 17 and 20 fathoms on it, and 40 fathoms a little way outside; but the only known danger near the passage between Pulo Marra and Pulo Ayer besar, is a coral shoal with 2 fathoms on it, and from 27 to 33 fathoms around. From this shoal the West point of Pulo Troosan bears N. 2° E., Pulo Babee kecheel N. E. by N. ¼ N. about 4 miles, which is the nearest island to it, the South Point of Pulo Babee besar N. E. by E. ½ E., and the top of the hill on Pulo Ayer besar E. by S. From this island S. 3° W., distant 4 or 5 miles, lies a small dangerous shoal, over which the sea is seen to roll when there is much swell.

Several Bays.

Orange Island.

To the eastward of the island last mentioned, there are the two bays of Battuwang, and Teloo Cassee, on the main, both containing good anchorage in moderate depths, but open to westerly winds: About 2 leagues farther to the S. E. is situated Batang Capay Bay, having also good ground for anchoring, but open to S. Westerly winds. Nearly West from this bay 3 ½ leagues, and 22 leagues to the S. S.W. of Pulo Ayer besar, lies Pulo Panneu, or Orange Island, which is small, with 40 and 43 fathoms close to it on the outside. Captain Kirton places a shoal 2 miles E. by N. from it, the existence of which seems doubtful.

Other islands and shoals near the coast.

The other islands from thence to Ayer Raja, that front the coast at 2 to 5 leagues distance, are Pulo Tellore, in about lat. 1° 38′ S., distant 2½ leagues to the S. E. of Orange Island, and about the same distance from Tellore bluff Point, on the opposite shore; to the northward of which, lie some rocks near the main, dry at low water; and about a league N. by W. from Pulo Tellore, there is said to be a shoal; from that island breakers also project ¼ of a mile. Pulo Ayer is about 5 miles to the S.W. of Pulo Tellore; to the N.W. of it about a league, there is said to be a shoal, and another about 1½ mile to the southward. Sandy Island bears S. E. by E., about.7 miles from Pulo Ayer, and Tree Island bears about S. S.W. 2½ leagues from Sandy Island, having a reef of breakers to the N. Westward of it about a league.

Pulo Bringen and shoals.

PULO BRINGEN, or RINGEN the southernmost of this chain of islands, in about lat. 1° 58′ S., is 4 leagues from the main, and 3 or 4 miles E. by S. ¼ S. from Tree Island; there is a 2½ fathoms shoal about 1½ mile to the N. N.W. of it, and S. by E. from it about 5 miles there are 3 fathoms on another rocky shoal. From one of the reefs of breakers, Pulo Bringen is said to bear S. S. E. ¾ E., and Tree Island S. ¾ E. When in 24 fathoms about 2 leagues off shore, with the Volcano Mount E. ¼ N., and Pulo Bringen South, a sand in one with breakers bore N.W. ¾ W., others breakers S.W. ¾ W., and a reef on which breakers were visible at times, W. ¼ N.

There is also a reef under water to the E. N. E. of Tree Island, rendering the passage between it and Pulo Bringen unsafe.

Opposite to those dangers in the offing, there is a reef within 2 or 3 miles of the coast, on which the sea breaks in bad weather; it bears from Pulo Bringen N. 64° E., distant 16 miles, and is on with Tellore Bluff Point, bearing N. N.W. ¼ W. About 4 miles to the westward of it, there are 15 and 16 fathoms water, and 24 fathoms near the dangers in the offing.

To sail from Pulo Chenco, to

Departing from Pulo Chenco, or having passed through between it and Pulo Ayer besar, if a ship is bound to Ayer Raja, it will be prudent in coasting along, to keep 4 or 5 miles off

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shore, in soundings from 20 to 25 fathoms, to avoid, the dangers near it; care will also be requisite, to give a proper birth in passing, to the shoals and islands in the offing described above; more particularly in the night, for in the day, with a good look out, most of the dangers will be visible, and a ship may then borrow occasionally to 15 or 16 fathoms: When Pulo Bringen bears about W. S. W., she may haul to the eastward for the anchorage of Ayer Raja, which is not much frequented, being considered unsafe with N. W. and westerly winds.

Ayer Raja.

Anchorage

AYER RAJA, is not easily known, the village being about 2 miles up the river, but a flag is sometimes hoisted near the entrance. It may be known by a remarkable round hill covered with trees, near the sea, about 4 miles to the northward of the river's mouth, called by some Volcano Mount: when at anchor in 5½ fathoms soft clay, with the Flagstaff at the mouth of the river bearing E. by N. northerly, near 2 miles, this mount will bear E. N. E. ¾ N., and Pulo Bringen W. ¾ N. It is prudent not to anchor under 8 fathoms, with the Flagstaff East, Pulo Bringen W. ½ N., and Indrapour Point S. ½ W., off shore about 2½, miles. If north-westers are apprehended, a ship may anchor out in 12 or 13 fathoms, in order to clear Indrapour Point, should she be unable to ride.

It is dangerous to enter the river with a boat at low water, particularly when there is much swell, for the surf is then high on the bar.

Geo. Site of Indrapour Point.

INDRAPOUR POINT, in lat. 2° 5′ S.,* lon. 100° 55′ E., by Capt. Wm. Owen's observations, or 1° 28′ West of Rat Island by chronometers, and 4½ leagues to the southward of Ayer Raja, is low, and its extremity covered with trees; as foul ground projects out a little way, it should not be approached too close, From this point the coast stretches to N. Eastward, and forms an extensive open bay between it and Ayer Raja, with Indrapour River at the bottom of it, a little to the southward of the latter place. From hence to Fort Marlborough, there are no islands near the coast, Pulo Bringen being the southernmost of the chain or long range, which may be said to commence at Passage Island, near Sinkel.

To pass it and proceed to the southward.

Leaving Ayer Raja, or the channel betwixt it and Pulo Bringen, a ship should haul out of the bay, and pass Indrapour Point at 3 or 4 miles distance; if the wind be steady, and bound to Bencoolen, a direct course may be steered along the coast, keeping from 2, to 4 or 5 leagues off; but with light winds, it will be proper to preserve moderate depths from 15 to 25 fathoms, for anchoring if requisite, never exceeding 30 fathoms, nor borrowing under 10 fathoms toward the shore, in case of getting into rocky ground.

Moco Moco.

Anchorage.

A shoal.

MOCO MOCO, in about lat. 2° 34′ S., distant 11 or 12 leagues to the S. Eastward of Indrapour Point, situated at the bottom of a small bay, is a place of some trade; the two points that form it are covered with tall trees, and about 4 or 5 leagues to the N. Westward, a remarkable gap in the trees may be discerned in coming from that direction, Having passed Indrapour Point about 4 miles distance, a ship bound to Moco Moco should coast along about the same distance until near it, the houses and flag-staff will then be discerned, and she may anchor in 10 fathoms soft ground, with the latter bearing E. by N., and a remarkable peak inland N. E. ¼ N., off shore 2½ or 3 miles. Small vessels may, if requisite, anchor in 6, 7, or 8 fathoms. The country boats must be employed in landing, for a ship's boat cannot, without great danger, on account of the surf. Near to Moco Moco River, is situated that of Mandoota, the mouth of which may be seen in coming from the southward. About 3 or 4 leagues W. N.W. from Moco Moco, there is a bank of rocks and sand, having on it from 18 to 11 fathoms in most parts; but by some navigators it is thought to be dangerous, the sea breaking on it in blowing weather, old said to have only 2½ or 3 fathoms water on the shoalest part; consequently, it should be approached with caution.

* Some navigators place it in lat. 2° 10′ to 2° 12′ S.

K 2

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Ayer Dicket.

AYER DICKET, situated about 3 or 4 leagues to the southward of Moen Moco, and a little southward from a bluff point clothed with trees, may be known by a clump of tall trees, growing thicker on each side of the mouth of the river than any where else. There being a dangerous bar, the river is unnavigable, even for boats. A ship may anchor off it, in 8 or 10 fathoms.

Adjoining coast.

A ship bound from the southward to Moco Moco, may round the bluff point to the North of Ayer Dicket in 8 or 9 fathoms, when the southerly monsoon prevails, and haul gradually into the bay, to prevent being driven to leeward. Between that point and Moco Moco, a shoal bank projects several miles from the shore, said to have only 4 and 5 fathoms rocky bottom on it in some places; and the coast is lined with a sandy beach, toward which, a great swell generally rolls, and this is the case on most parts of it, particularly to the south of the equator.

Bantall;

anchorage,

BANTALL RIVER, situated in a bay about 4½ leagues to the S. Eastward of Ayer Dicket, may be known by two white cliffs a little to the northward of it, appearing from the offing like boats' sails: in coming from the north toward it, a ship may coast along in 10 to 15 fathoms, taking care not to borrow on the shore where the bottom is found rocky. The best anchorage in the road, is in 8 or 9 fathoms ouze and sandy bottom, with the white cliffs N. N. E., and the rivers mouth N. E.

rivers, and contiguous coast.

Between Bantall and Ipoe there are the three rivers, Triamang, Ayer Etam, and Ayer Ruttah; Triamang, the northernmost, may be known by a small red cliff forming the low point on the North side of the entrance; the coast, embracing those rivers, may be approached to 12 or 14 fathoms, regular soundings in most places.

Ipoe and the coast adjacent.

AYPOUR, or IPOE, situated about 6½ leagues to the S. E. of Bantall, where there is another river in the bottom of a bay, may be known by three red cliffs to the southward, and three green hills near the sea; with the central one of these bearing N. E. by E., large ships should not anchor under 9 or 10 fathoms, where the road is tolerably clear; farther in, the bottom is foul, and the water shoal.

A bank, and dangerous rock.

How to avoid it.

From the shore to the southward of Ipoe, a bank of foul ground projects nearly 2 leagues to seaward, having on it from 6 to 10 fathoms, coral and coarse sand; and on its outer edge there is a coral rock on which the Swallowfield struck, bearing S. W. by S. 2 leagues from Ipoe, covered with only 14 feet water, and having from 8 to 16 fathoms all round. It should not be approached under 10 or 12 fathoms, being very steep; there are but a little way outside of it, 30, 40, and 50 fathoms, then no ground. When Ipoe bears N. E. by E., a ship is clear to the northward of the bank and rock, and may then haul nearer to the land if coming from the southward, but when abreast of this danger, she ought to keep about 3 leagues off shore.

Caytone; the coast and dangers near it.

Directions to sail along shore.

CAYTONE, in about lat. 3° 29′ S., distant about 6 leagues to the S. Eastward of Ipoe, has a white cliff to the southward like a castle, and breakers to the northward near a mile from the shore. Rocky ground with irregular soundings project about 2 leagues out from Directions this place, and from hence northward, toward Ipoe; a ship ought, therefore, to keep well out to sail along in sailing between them, for about 4 leagues off this part of the coast where no soundings are got, the water will shoal suddenly if she stand toward the shore. Nearly mid-way between Ipoe and Caytone, there is a small place called Sablat, appearing like an opening betwixt reddish cliffs; and Caytone has a similar appearance.

And form Caytone to Fort Mariborough.

From Caytone the distance is 8 or 9 leagues S. Eastward to Fort Marlborough, and the coast in this space is safe to approach occasionally to 11 or 12 fathoms, the soundings being more regular than farther to the northward; from 12 to 20 fathoms are good depths to preserve in sailing along.

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Laye and

Polley.

LAYE, a small place about 2 leagues to the southward of Caytone, has regular soundings off it; when in 9 fathoms with the Sugar Loaf bearing E. by N., Laye House situated in a small bay, bears N. E. ¼ N. Polley, another small place, lies 1½ or 2 leagues more to the southward, having some red cliffs between it and the former place.

A rock off Songy Lamo Point must be avoided.

Songy Lamo Point, about 2 leagues southward from Polley, and near 5 miles to the north ward of Fort Marlborough, ought not to be approached under 10 fathoms, for a rock with Pent only 2 or 2½ fathoms on it, and 7 fathoms close to, is distant about 1½ mile from the point, bearing from it and the Sugar Loaf when in the same transit line with each other, S.W. by W., and from the flagstaff on the steeple about N.W. by W.

Bencoolen River.

BENCOOLEN RIVER'S entrance, situated at the bottom of the bay, about 1½ mile to the N. Eastward of the point on which Fort Marlborough is built, has from 4 to 6 feet the bar, and from 8 to 12 feet inside. The English at first formed their settlement here, but they considered it unhealthy, and removed to the South point of the bay where Fort Marlborough now stands, on ground a little more elevated than the former, and has been recently relinquished to the Dutch, according to the treaty with the Netherland's Government.

Geo. Site of Fort Marlborough.

FORT MARLBOROUGH, vulgo, Bencoolen, is in lat. 3° 48′ S., lon. 102° 28′ E.*, by mean of lunar observations taken by several navigators, and combined with chronometers. Captain William Rees made it 22° 7′ E. from Point de Gale, by four chronometers, their greatest difference 4 miles after a speedy passage from thence, which will place it in lon. 102° 27′ E. By the same chronometers, he made 4° 25′ E. from Fort Marlborough to Batavia, which will also place it in lon. 102° 27′ E., allowing Batavia to be in 106° 52′ E. The Fort and Town are built on Oojong Carrang, a point of land having a level appearance, and moderately elevated; but the land in the country to the North-eastward is high, and hilly; one of these having a conical form, called the Sugar Loaf, is the most conspicuous, serving as a mark to avoid the shoals adjoining to this place.

The common anchorage in the road, is about mid-way betwixt Rat Island and the town, in 11 or 12 fathoms; under 11 fathoms the bottom is generally rocky, and also farther out, it is foul in some parts. The York anchored in 10½ fathoms with the flagstaff E. by N. ¼ N., Poolo Point S. S. E., and the Sugar Loaf N. E. ¼ N., distant about 3 miles from the Fort, and had her cable cut through by the rocks. She afterward anchored in 12 fathoms clear ground, with the flagstaff E. N. E., Poolo Point about S. E. by S., and Rat Island S. W. by S. In the Atlas, we lay 20 days in April and May, in 11 fathoms clear ground, Rat Island S.W., Sugar Loaf N. E., Flagstaff E. N. E. ½ N., Black Rock Breakers S. E., and Poolo Point S. S. E. ¾ E. A ship ought not to go under 11 fathoms, and if she is to remain in the road for a few days, it may be prudent to examine the bottom, by sounding about her in the boat within the range of the cable, for ships do not moor, unless it be with a hawser and small anchor, to steady them.

Anchorage under Rat Island.

Close to the entrance of Rat Island Bason, and fronting it to the distance of a mile N. Anchorage Eastward, the bottom is generally soft, where ships may anchor in 13½ or 14 fathoms under the reef that surrounds it, in the southerly monsoon. When the N.W. winds prevail strong, from September to March, a heavy sea frequently rolls into the road, making ships labour greatly at their anchors.

Captain Huddart, advises ships that do not go into Poolo Bay, or Rat Island Bason, in this season, to anchor to the eastward within a mile of the island, in about 15 fathoms, where the sea will be partly broken by the reef. The same business may be done from this station

* In 1822, the difference of longitude measured from Madras by mean of two chronometers, made Fort Marlborough in lon. 102° 16′ E., which seems too much westerly. And by mean of Northern and Southern Stars, and the Sun, the Turret of the Fort was found to be in lat. 3° 47′ 38″ S.

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in favorable weather, as if a ship were in the road, for sailing boats passing to and from Fort Marlborough, are confined to one trip in 24 hours by the land and sea breezes; besides, the N.W. winds are those only to be dreaded, and if a ship part her cables, she may run far Poolo Bay with little or no canvass spread.

Inner Road.

A caution relative to passing the North and South breakers.

There is an inner road with 4 and 4½ fathoms water, a little to the northward of the Fort, and inside of the North and South breakers, which is sometimes frequented by small vessels in the fair season, for the convenience of loading and unloading. But if unacquainted, it is imprudent for boats or vessels of any kind, to venture inside without a guide, for several boats have been lost upon the North or South breakers, which are not always visible when the sea is smooth; for then, a high surge is only at times seen to roll over the rocks, which would prove fatal to any boat that unfortunately got into it.

to proceed going in with a boat.

To pass from the road in a boat, through the channel between the North and South breakers, steer from Rat Island toward the Sugar Loaf, keeping this rather on the starboard bow until the steeple appear on the West, or Sea-Face, of the nearest bastion; or until a very conspicuous tree appear behind the South end of the N.W. or Sea-Curtain, of the Fort; the boat will then in either case, be inside, or past the breakers, and may haul in close to the shore reef, keeping along the edge of it until within the Fort, and opposite to the landing wharf.

With a northerly wind, it is best to pass to the North and Eastward of the North breaker, by keeping 2 miles to the N. Westward of the Fort until the conspicuous tree is brought behind the N. E. end of the N.W., or Sea-Curtain; or bring the steeple behind the N.W. Face of the West Bastion, and you will avoid the North breaker, by passing to the N. Eastward of it.

With a southerly wind, when coming from the road, it is best to steer for the town, and pass to the southward of the South breaker, and close along the edge of the shore reef, from its outer extremity to the landing place.

Close to the North and South breakers, there are 7 and 8 fathoms on the outside, and 6 fathoms inside of them. Nearly abreast of the Fort, a little outside of the landing place, there is a shoal patch in 3½ fathoms, at a small distance from the edge of the shore reef, which is avoided by keeping close to the latter; or that patch may be passed on the North side, by keeping a low white house near the beach and the bushy tree nearly in a line with each other, when steering in for the landing place. This is protected from the sea by a rocky ledge fronting it at the distance of 150 yards; boats pass round the eastern point of this, and then haul in the southward for the wharf.

Bullocks, poultry, fruits and vegetables of various kinds, may be got here, and the country around has a pleasant appearance. The variation of the compass here, was 1° 31′ East in 1782.

Rat Island.

and bason.

RAT ISLAND, in lat. 3° 51′ S., bearing S.W. by W. from Fort Marlborough, distant about 6 miles, is surrounded by an extensive coral reef, partly dry at low water; which projects 1¼ mile to the N.W. of the island, and to the southward of it about ¾ of a mile. The island. is low and small, having on it a few palmira trees, and some godowns, or houses for receiving pepper, with a small battery of guns for its protection, To the northward of the island, there is an excellent gut or bason in the N. E. side of the reef, with 5, 6, and 7 fathoms in it, and, 3 or 2½ fathoms at its upper end. Ships requiring repair, or having a cargo to receive or deriver at Fort Marlborough, generally go into this bason, where they moor head and stern, to anchors laid upon the bank on each side, or nearly in a N.W. and S. E. line, directly across the bason.

The passage into the bason is close to the edge of the reef on the West side of the entrance, for several detached, rocky patches bound the East side, with 7 and 8 fathoms water close to them.

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The bottom in the bason is soft mud and sand, and the coral bank on each side being a soft perpendicular wall, no injury is sustained if during the strong N.W. gales, a ship part her mooring junk or cable, and is driven against the S. E. side. Ships proceeding to the bason, generally anchor at the entrance, and warp into it; from this place, goods may be conveyed to, or from Fort Marlborough, with the same facility as from the road, the boats being able to make a trip daily with the land and sea breezes. Here, a ship is completely sheltered from the sea by the reef; whereas, it often runs so high in the road, that goods are unsafe in the boats alongside, and they are frequently forced to run for shelter into Poolo Bay, the Northwesters sometimes giving very short warning of their approach.

Poolo Bay.

To run from the road clear of the black rocks and from thence to the bay.

Anchorage.

POOLO BAY, situated about 3 leagues to the southward of Fort Marlborough, is an excellent harbour, secured from the sea by a neck of land on the North and West sides, which is generally called Poolo Point; that part fronting the sea is called the West point; and the eastern extremity, the East point; the latter is low and sandy, and forms the North side of the bay. When ships at anchor in the road, are unable to ride during strong they slip their cables if it is day-light, and run for Poolo Bay. In doing so, they should steer South and S. by E., taking care not to come under 12 fathoms until past the Black Rock, and False Black Rock, as they may not be always discernible in blowing weather, the sea breaks much in the channel. They lie about half way between the road and the bay. Poolo Point, or 4 miles from the latter, and if the low sandy point of the bay is not brought to the southward of S. E., they will be avoided. When clear of the Black Rocks, a ship should haul to the eastward for Sillebar on the East side of the bay, and the depth will decrease gradually to 8 fathoms as the low sandy point that forms the opposite side is approached; which at low water may be rounded very close, and when it is high water, at the distance of a cable's length; she must then haul up under the South side of it, and anchor in 7 fathoms with the extremity bearing about North, distant from the company's pepper godowns a large ¼ mile. Near the shore, the South side of the bay is shoal and rocky, and it would be imprudent to run too far into the western angle of it, where there is a 4 feet rocky shoal, the only one in the bay.

If destitute of anchors a ship may run on shore.

If a ship happen to lose all her anchors, she ought to haul close round the point, and when well inside of it, she may run on shore in the mud without fear, opposite to the nearest tree, having previously prepared a hawser to make fast to it with the boat.

Thought unhealthy, and the water poraicious.

Sillebar River's entrance, to the N.W. of the bay, has 4 feet water on the bar; from whence it stretches both northward and southward, near, and parallel to the shore, the southern branch leading to a great lake contiguous to the sea, to the S. Eastward of Poolo Bay. The tide rises from 3½ to 5 feet in the springs, high water about 6 hours on full and change of the moon; the bay being surrounded with low swampy ground, is generally considered to, be very unhealthy, and the water also of a pernicious quality;* it is, therefore, little frequented by ships.

Unsafe to run for in the night.

Ships driven from their anchorage in the night, cannot run for Poolo Bay without the risk of getting on the low sandy point that forms it, for it will not be visible, nor do the soundings the answer as a proper guide, there being 8 and 8½ fathoms very close to it, and nearly the same depths in a direct line from it to the N.N.Westward; it therefore, seems advisable, if a ship cannot ride during the night, to run out to sea, betwixt Rat Island and the Asia Shoal.

* The Royal Bishop moored in Rat Island Basop, in 1784, having her mizen-mast sprung, she sent the long boat with an officer and 19 men to Poolo Bay, for the mast of the Myrtle transport, that ship having been condemned there, on her passage from Bengal to England. They had provisions and 3 butts of good water, and were cautioned not to drink the water of Poolo Bay, notwithstanding, many of them whilst on shore drank of it, rather than take the trouble of going to the boat, which proved of fatal consequence to many of them; for the officer was confined to his bed during the passage home, and the boatswain, one quarter-master, and 8 men, died during that passage. Poolo Bay is thought to be most unhealthy during the southerly monsoon.

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DANGERS contiguous to this place, exclusive of the rock off Songy Lamo Point, and the North and South breakers off Fort Marlborough Point, already mentioned, are the following.

Middle Shoal.

Middle Shoal, with 4¾ fathoms rocks on it, is situated nearly mid-way between the South breaker and Black Rock, and is on with the Sugar Loaf bearing about N. 42° E.; close to it on the outside, there are 9 and 10 fathoms, and 8½ fathoms inside.

Black Rock, and

False one.

How to avoid them.

CARRANG LAM POOYANG, or BLACK ROCK, about 1½ mile to the S. E. of the former, and nearly South from Marlborough 3½ or 4 miles, is generally discernible by the sea breaking on it; inside of it the depths are 8 and 9 fathoms, and the same outside, in a small channel betwixt it and the False Black Rock, which lies about a mile West from the other, with 3¾ fathoms water on it. This danger is on with the Sugar Loaf bearing N.E. by N., and in one with the Flagstaff on the steeple, bearing from N. 3° E. to N. 7° E. These shoals are avoided on the outside by keeping in above 8 fathoms, and by keeping in about 8 fathoms or rather less, a small vessel may occasionally pass inside of them.

Other shoals near Rat Island.

To avoid them,

and steer in by the North channel.

Carrang Byang Byang, and Carrang Ikan Tandoo, are two rocky shoals close together, with 5 and 6 fathoms water on them, bearing from Rat Island between West and W. N.W., distant 2 or 2½ miles; and betwixt them and the reef surrounding the island, there is a passage nearly a mile wide, with 16 and 17 fathoms water. To avoid these shoals, Rat Island should not be approached nearer than 3 miles when it bears from East to E. S. E.; and as the Sugar Loaf bears from them N. E. ½ E., it should, in coming from seaward, be kept to the eastward of that bearing until Rat Island bears S. E., by a ship bound to the road or to Rat Island Bason, through the northern channel, which is spacious and safe. In working to, or from the road by this channel, a ship may stand near the edge of Rat Island Reef on the southward tack, and to 10 fathoms toward Sony Lembo Rock and the main.

Other dangers.

aud to a avoid them.

Carrang Ikan Chaby, are two small shoals with 4½ and 5 fathoms rocks on them, distant about a mile E. N. E, from Rat Island, having a narrow channel with 10 and 12 fathoms betwixt them and Rat Island Reef; a vessel to pass through it, must keep within less than 150 fathoms of the Island Reef; or a full mile off Rat Island Reef, to pass outside of these shoals.

Asia shoal.

CARRANG LEBAR, or ASIA SHOAL, extends East and West 1½ mile, and is about a mile in breadth; although 4 fathoms is the least water that has been found on it, the bottom being coral and sand, there is a heavy ground swell on it, which sometimes breaks in bad weather; it ought therefore to be carefully avoided, more particularly, as it lies much in the way of ships approaching the road from the southward, and there may probably be less water on some spots, than 4 fathoms. From Rat Island, the East end of the shoal bears S. S. E. and the West or outer part S. by E., distant 5 miles; and from the West Point of Poolo Bay, the nearest part of the shoal bears about W. by S.½ S., distant 3 miles. The Sugar Loaf bears from the East end of it N. N. E. easterly, and from the West end N. E. by N. northerly.

To sail through the channels on either side of it.

To approach the road or Rat Island by the outside channel, between the island and shoal, a ship ought not to bring the island to the westward of N.½ W. until within 3 miles of it, then she may haul in for it and the road; or directly to the eastward, for Poolo Bay, if bound there. The depths between the shoal and Rat Island are from 22 to 17 fathoms, and in the other channel betwixt it and the main, generally 17 and 18 fathoms. Coming from the southward through this channel, a ship must keep within 2 miles of the West point of Poolo Bay until it bear East, acid may then steer for the island: the point may he approached within ½, or ¾ of a mile occasionally in working, but a reef projects from it about 1/3 of a mile, with 3 fathoms on its outer edge, and 13 or 14 fathoms close to.

To avoid the Asia Shoal fully on the West side, when going in or out by that channel, the

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island may in passing the shoal, be kept bearing North. The approach to this shoal may be known by the overfalls toward the outer edges of it, if the lead is kept going.

5th. COAST FROM MARLBOROUGH TO FLAT POINT, WITH SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Buffalo Point,

coast from thence to Flat Point.

BUFFALO POINT, in about lat. 3° 58′ S. a round bluff headland covered with trees, discernible from the Road of Fort Marlborough, is about 2½ miles to the southward of the West Point of Poolo Bay, and they are frequently considered as one and the same. From Buffalo Point, the coast of Sumatra extends S. E. about 58 leagues to the West part of Flat Point, which is the South point of this large island, and forms the North side of the entrance of Sunda Strait. The whole of this extent of coast, is generally bold and safe to approach, and the land mountainous a little in the country; soundings reach out from the shore about Fort Marlborough and Poolo Bay, to the distance of 4 or 5 leagues: and from thence to Manna, regular soundings over a sandy bottom are found, where a ship may occasionally anchor in moderate depths, if it fall calm and the current be unfavorable; but farther to the southward, the coast becomes more steep, the soundings extending out only a short distance, until Little Fortune Island near Flat Point is approached, where soundings are got nearly 2 leagues from the main.

Manna Point and placens adjacent.

MANNA POINT, in lat. 4° 33′ S., bearing nearly S. E. from Buffalo Point distant 17 leagues, may be known by being a small hill with palmira trees on it, and is the next head land that projects considerably into the sea. Betwixt them, there are several small places; Moreallatm, about 4 or 5 leagues from Buffalo Point; Saloomale, about 2 leagues farther; Pring in lat. 4° 21′S., distant 11 leagues from Buffalo Point; Alass, 2 leagues more to the S. E.; and Penoo, near Manna. The coast in this space may be approached to 15 or 20 fathoms, and in some parts to 11 or 12 fathoms; but from 18 to 35 fathoms, are good depths to preserve in sailing along.

About 4 miles to the S. Eastward of Buffalo Point, there is a narrow spit with 7 fathoms rocks on it, 15 fathoms close to, on the outside, and 12 fathoms soft ground between it and the shore, from which it is distant about 2 miles. The spit extends parallel to the shore about ¼ mile, opposite to a low point of land, and the least water found on it has been 7 fathoms.

Anchorage at Pring,

At Pring, the Company's ships used sometimes to anchor to receive pepper; the best anchorage is in 12 fathoms muddy bottom; for farther in, the ground is foul and rocky on the edge of a shoal, projecting about 2 or 3 miles off shore. With the resident's house bearing N.E. by E.¼ E. distant about 3 miles, the Kent shoaled at once from 9 to 7 fathoms, and anchored during a strong gale, where she had the best bower cable cut to pieces in one night: about ¾ a mile from the ship, the boat had 7 fathoms very rocky, and farther in, found the water shoal suddenly, the sea breaking there, when blowing fresh.

and at Manna.

Manna, is situated near the point of that name; at which place the Company's ships used at to touch, to take in pepper from thence and Penoo, and generally anchored in 10 or 12 fathoms. The Europa, at anchor taking in pepper at Penoo, had the house at Penoo bearing N.½ E., and Manna E. by N. A small cascade falls perpendicularly from the steep cliffs, which line the shore near Manna, to which the Elgin East India ship dispatched a boat for water; but the boat was lost, and the crew perished in the tremendous surf, that generally prevails along this coast.

Manna Point may be rounded in 14 fathoms, but not nearer, as a reef is said to project from it about a mile; to the southward of the point, there are 12 and 14 fathoms about 1½ nile from it; but no ground 50 fathoms at the distance of 2½ or 3 miles, for the coast to the

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S. Eastward becomes more steep. About 5 leagues S. E. from Manna, there is a place called Pathang, or Padang.

Cawoor, and the adjacent coast.

CAWOOR, in lat. 4° 56′ S., distant about 11 or 12 leagues to the S. E. of Manna, is situated near the South part of a concavity in the land about 5 miles in length, where, in the small bay of Cawoor, ships are sheltered from southerly winds; and, in Sambat Bay, which forms the North part of the concavity, there is good shelter from N.W. and Westerly winds in 9 or 10 fathoms, sand and muddy bottom. From Sambat River on the East side, to Secooniet or Bandar Point, that forms the western extremity, this bay is about 2½ miles wide, having the village Bandar at the N.W. side, where there is a small river, and a level country.

From the anchorage in the bay, Mount Poogong may be seen over the other land bearing E. S. E.

The anchorage at Cawoor is in 11 or 12 fathoms, with the resident's house bearing about E. N, E., distant 1 mile, the South point of the bay S. by E. or S. ¾ E., 1½ mile, and the western extreme of the land W. N.W., about 3½ miles.

The passage for boats going to the factory, is betwixt two coral banks, and very narrow, with breakers on each side; about 100 yards to the westward of the factory, there is a small black rock, on the western bank, which must be kept very near on the larboard hand. Steering out from the anchorage to the westward, the depth increases regularly, but rather suddenly, from 14 fathoms in the road, to 42 fathoms sand and shells, a little way outside of the bay. About ½ a mile from the shore, outside of the South point, there are 40 fathoms water, and 20 fathoms close to the breakers.

Geo. Site of Pulo Pisang.

Anchorage,

PULO PISANG, in lat. 5° 8′ S., lon. 104° 6½′ E., by Captain William Oven's observantions, bears from the South point of Cawoor Bay about S. E. by E., distant 8 leagues; the coast between them is steep, and no soundings got except very close in. Point Poogong, about 3 leagues from Pulo Pisang, projects a little into the sea; and Mount Poogong in lat. 5° 4′ S., is a high remarkable mountain, situated near the sea, which bears nearly North from the same island, and may be discerned a great way from the offing. Pulo Pisang is of round form, about a mile in diameter, consisting chiefly of a bed of rock chrystal, and on the East side between it and the main, there is good anchorage and shelter from N.W. and Westerly winds, in 12 or 15 fathoms. The Revenge moored in 16 fathoms with the island bearing from S.W. ½ S. to W. N.W., Sillaloo Rock at Crooe S. E. ½ E., extremes of Sumatra from S. S. E. to W. N.W. ½ N., and the rocks about 50 yards off the S. E. part of the island S.W. by S. Southerly, distance from the island three cables' lengths, and from the main ¾ of a mile.

and contiguous shoals.

To the northward of the island, about ½ way between it and the main, there is a reef of rocks on which the sea generally breaks, having 12 and 16 fathoms on the South side, 20 fathoms on the West side, 12 fathoms foul ground to the northward; and about North or N. by W. from the reef, there is a patch of coral rock with 2 fathoms on it, seeming to preclude any safe passage for large ships betwixt the reef and Sumatra shore. Between the N.W. end of the island and reef, the depths are from 10 to 18 fathoms; but to the eastward of the latter, the water is shoal; with foul ground, generally from 4 or 4 ½ to 3 fathoms on the visible patches of coral rock. This shoal water and foul ground, extends from the North part of the island in a N. N. Easterly direction toward the main, so that it would be imprudent for a ship drawing much water to endeavour to pass between the island and the Sumatra shore; but a small ship by keeping about two cables' lengths from the island, pray come in from the northward, or pass out that way. Wood and water may be got on the main, to the N. E. of the island, and the soundings are regular in the road, from the East side of the island close to the shore of Sumatra. A reef lines the outside of the island,

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stretching to a small distance, from which the depth increases quickly in standing to the southward, there being 36 and 40 fathoms about a ¼ mile off.

Crooe and the adjoining coast.

CROOE, in lat. 5° 15′ S., about 7 miles S. E. by E. from Pulo Pisang, is situated at the bottom of the bay, on the bank of a small river, close to the northward of Sillaloo Rock, navigable by small boats at high water. All round the bay, from abreast of Pulo Pisang to Crooe, soundings of 35 fathoms are got about a ¼ mile from the shore, and they extend farther out from the latter place: but care is required, if working into Crooe Road, to avoid a dangerous rocky shoal, discovered by Mr. M'Kellar, of H. M. S. Billequeux, which ship touched here, and procured good water, bullocks, buffalos, and other refreshments.

This shoal bears about N. ¼ W. from Sillaloo Rock 1¼ mile, from a remarkable tree near the shore at the bottom of the bay it bears S. W., and is about ½ a mile distant from the nearest shore, and from the anchorage of Crooe about N. by W. ¾ of a mile. There is 1½ fathom water upon this rocky shoal, 14 and 15 fathoms inside of it, and 18 or 20 fathoms to the southward, between it and the anchorage of Crooe.

Sillaloo Rock, appears like an island when seen at a distance; foul ground projects from it about 2 cables' lengths into 10 fathoms, from thence sandy bottom to 54 fathoms about ¾ mile off shore. The anchorage is safe here, in the S. E. monsoon, being well sheltered from these winds by Carrang Pingan, the point that forms the South side of the bay, off which there are no soundings about 2 cables' lengths from the breakers, and 40 fathoms close to.

Bencoonat.

BENCOONAT, in lat. 5° 35′ S., bearing about S. E. from Pulo Pisang, 8 or 9 leagues, is a small town or village subject to Crooe, situated on the North side of a low point, having on it palmira trees: the bay here, is interspersed with rocks, which stretch out near a league from the point, but there is a passage for boats or very small vessels, close along the shore. Siggen Point, about 3 leagues to the N.W., forming the western extremity of the bay, has a reef projecting about a mile or more, with 20 fathoms close to; and between Crooe Bay and that of Bencoonat, soundings extend a little way from the land. The coast hereabout, and farther to the southward, is generally low fronting the sea, but inland the country is mountainous. A ship intending to touch at Bencoonat, should anchor well out, to avoid the rocky ground.

Little Fortune Island.

LITTLE FORTUNE ISLAND, called by the natives PULO BATOA KETCHEEL, in lat. 5° 54′ S., distant about 4 miles from the main, bears nearly S. E. by S. from Bencoonat 8 leagues; and it is low and woody, about a mile in diameter. Along the coast between them, soundings are found 3 or 4 miles from the shore; and in the vicinity of the island, the bank becomes more regular, and extends farther out, having soundings on it from 2 to 3 leagues off the main. About 4 leagues to the northward of Little Fortune Island, a low point of land forms the northern extreme of a bay, where there is a village. When that Point bears North Easterly, the Sugar Loaf N. E. ¾ E., and the island S. E. ¼ S. 10 miles, there are 27 fathoms sandy bottom, about 3 miles off shore.

Anchorage under it and at Billimbing Bay.

This island is environed by a reef, but there is good anchorage about a mile to the eastward of it, in 8 or 9 fathoms, and a passage betwixt it and the main, with various depths, from 5 or 6, to 12 and 13 fathoms. There is also good anchorage in BILLIMBING BAY on the opposite shore, a little to the northward of the South end of Sumatra, where a ship may lie in 7 or 8 fathoms at the entrance of the bay, and small vessels may lie in 3 fathoms inside, sheltered from all winds. The small river Billimbing is on the East side of the bay, and there is fresh water at the S.W. side, inside of the point that forms it, from which a reef projects to the northward about ¼ mile. Capt. W. Owen at anchor in this bay, in H.M.S. Baracouta, observed in lat. 5° 54′ S., Samanca Peak E. by N. ½ N., Billimbing Point S. E. ½ S., outer breaker of its reef S. S. E. ¼ E., Little Fortune Island W. ¼ S.

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The soundings are a guide in passing outside of the island in the night, and from thence round Flat Point, for they extend rather more than 2 leagues off shore; and the bank is very flat round the island. A ship coasting along with the wind from the land, and favorable weather, may borrow into 15 fathoms occasionally if the lead is kept going; in the Atlas, we borrowed to 12 fathoms, when passing Fortune Island and the land about Flat Point, during the night; but that seems too near, particularly in a large ship.

Bank of soundings.

The bank of soundings extends far South from Flat Point, otherwise there must be a detached bank a great way out from it, on which the two following ships had soundings, as will appear by an extract from their journals.

Bridgewater, February 7th, 1816, observed at noon in lat. 6° 15′ S., the body of Keysers Island bearing N. 24° E., Low or Flat Point N. 17° E., southern extreme of Princes Island S. 47° E., sounded and had ground 54 fathoms.

Atlas, February 7th, 1816, with the island Crockatoa bearing E. by N. ¾ N., and the low land about Flat Point, on Sumatra, N. by E. at noon, had soundings of 50 fathoms, having steered 2 miles S.W. by W. from being in 28 fathoms at 11 A. M. About 5 leagues W. S.W. from Flat Point, there is a coral bank of 30 fathoms placed in some Dutch charts.

Geo. Site of Flat Point, the land around.

FLAT POINT, in lat. 6° 0′ S., lon. 104° 40′ E., distant about 3 leagues to the S. Eastward of Little Fortune Island, is the S. Westernmost extremity of Sumatra, bounding the entrance of Sunda Strait on the North side; and the narrow neck of land by which it is formed, separates the deep inlet called Keyser's Bay, on the East side, from Billimbing Bay and Fortune Island on the opposite side. The South part of this neck of land is low and woody, extending 3 leagues nearly East and West, the East end of it bounding the entrance of Keyser's Bay, and called Tanjong Chinna, by others Flat Point; but the West end of this low land, is here, considered as Flat Point, and lies about 30 miles to the westward of Java Head. The ship Speke, in 1793, anchored on the East side of Flat Point in 17 fathoms sand, about ¾ of a mile from the shore, where she filled up her water, and was sheltered from N. Westers.

PRINCIPAL ISLANDS fronting the WEST COAST of SUMATRA, with SAILING DIRECTIONS; and BORNEO CORAL ISLES.

Bale of Cotton Rock.

PRIOR to a description of the islands fronting the West coast of Sumatra, it seems proper to notice some imaginary dangers, one of which, called the BALE OF COTTON ROCK, has been long dreaded by navigators; although its non-existence is now almost certain.

This imaginary danger, said to have been seen in the country ship London, bound from Bengal to Bombay in 1767, which ship passed within ½ a mile of it, at noon, May 5th, and made it in lat. 5° 22′ N., lon. 87° 57′ E. by account, from Point Palmiras. It appeared about 2 feet above water, 40 feet long, half that breadth, of a dark brown colour, and had something like moss upon it. They had no soundings in passing, nor did they send a boat to examine whether it was really a rock.

This is the substance of a letter from Mr. Callendar, then on board the London; although another account states, that he was upon the rock, which is inconsistent with his letter.

Mr. Douglas, an officer in the Countess of Errol, country ship, is said to have been upon

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the Bale of Cotton Rock, in 1794, who made it in lat. 5° 25′ N., lon, 87° 48′ E., and found it formed like a ship's bottom, covered with barnacles, about 230 yards in length, and nearly 6 feet above water, having soundings 120 and 130 fathoms on the East side, and on the N.W. and South sides, no ground.

Captain Le Meme, of the La Unie, French privateer, has stated, that he was on the Bale of Cotton Rock, in December, 1797, and made it in lat. 5° 18′ N., lon. 90° 40′ E., from Greenwich, by chronometer and lunar observations. He described it to be a small island, 25 or 30 feet above the surface of the sea, about 50 or 60 feet long, and 20 feet in breadth, situated on a sand bank extending about 300 feet in a N. E. and S.W. direction.

Another doubtful danger.

Another danger or reef, is said to have been seen by Le Meme, in January, 1797, which he made in lat. 1° 20′ N., lon. 94° 20′ E. Night approaching, the boat could not land upon it, but it appeared to be 8 or 10 feet above water, about a mile long from East to West, and no soundings.1 mile from it. The above statements are now considered to be either imaginary, or fabrications not entitled to belief.

Unfortunately for navigation, some persons through timidity, or other causes, are ready to discover dangers where none really exist, and few that see an imaginary danger, examine it sufficiently to ascertain its real existence beyond doubt.

Capt. Walker, of the Teignmouth, cruizer, was instructed by the Bengal government, to search for the supposed Bale of Cotton Rock, which he continued to do from the 24th of May to the 9th of June, 1817, between lon. 86° E. and 90½° E. in the latitudes assigned to it, and he is convinced that it cannot exist in those parallels of latitude.

The late Marine Surveyor, Capt. Court, and his 1st assistant, Capt. Maxfield, have recently searched several times in vain for this imaginary danger, in the Company's Surveying Vessels belonging to the Bengal establishment, by which its non-existence seems established.

Geo. Site of Cocos Islands.

COCOS, in lat. 3° 6′ N., about lon. 95° 40′ E., or 17½ miles West of the N.W. extremity of Hog Island, bearing from it N.W., distant about 7 leagues, are two small, low islands, covered with trees, separated from each other by a channel 1½ or 2 miles wide, which is probably not safe, as breakers project out a little way from the islands, with some islets or rocks dose to the northernmost.

Channel between them and Hog Island unsafe.

The channel between the North end of Hog Island and the Cocos, should be approached with great caution in a large ship, as a shoal bank is described in the journal of the ship, Jane, to extend about 4 leagues in a S. S. E. direction from the largest Coco Island, on which, steering to the N. E. she shoaled suddenly to 7 and 6½ fathoms. At sun-set, on the 13th of June, 1812, the Cocos Islands bore N. ¾ W., and the N.W. point of Hog Island East, when rocks were observed under the bottom, had ¼ less 7 fathoms hard sand, then 6½ fathoms: wore, and stood to the southward, increasing the depth regularly from 6½ to 8, 10, 12, 14, 20, and to 28 fathoms, sand and small black stones.

The following extract from the Greyhound packet's journal, also shews, that the above mentioned channel is dangerous, unless a ship borrow toward Hog Island.

February 24th, 1783, at 1 P. M. saw breakers bearing E. S. E. ½ S., and to appearance, there is broken or shoal water all the way from these breakers to the Cocos, which then bore N. E. by N., and the North end of Hog Island, East. We stood within 1½ mile of the breakers, which are very dangerous, and if a ship stand in to the eastward between Hog island and the Cocos, she ought never to bring the southernmost Coco to the northward of N. E. unless her distance from it is above 4 leagues.

Although ripplings occasioned by the currents or tides among these islands, sometimes resemble breakers, and are liable to deceive navigators; yet, it appears, by the above description taken from the journals of these two ships, that the channel between the North end of Hog Island and the Cocos, should not be chosen until better explored.

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Geo. Site of Hog Island.

HOG ISLAND, the northernmost of the large islands fronting the West coast of Sumatra, distant from it 17 or 18 leagues, extends nearly N.W. by W. and S. E. by E. about 15 leagues, the North point in lat. 2° 50′ N., lon. 95° 58′ E.,* the South end in lat. 2° 21′ N., and it is about 3 to 4 leagues broad, high, hilly, covered with trees, and may be seen 9 or 10 leagues; several islets lie near the shore on both sides, and 3 or 4 leagues from the South point, in lat. 2° 10′ N. lie the two Flat Islands, betwixt which and the South end of Hog Island, there is a good passage about 3½ or 4 leagues wide, having no soundings at 70 fathoms, within 2 miles of the northernmost Flat Island, but the ship Baring found 26 fathoms in mid-channel, coral soundings. The water is in general deep near these islands, but on both sides of Hog Island, there are sudden overfalls on several coral patches, that lie 1 or 2 leagues off shore. On one of these, which bears about South from the S.W. point, there are very irregular soundings, from 30, 20, to 7 fathoms, or probably less water: about 2½ miles outside of one of the islets that front the East end of the island, there is a 2 fathoms coral shoal, with 90 fathoms no ground close to it. As there is no inducement for a ship to stop at this island, nor any safe anchorage about it known to navigators, they seldom or never land there, although it is probable, there may be a harbour within some of the islets that line its eastern side. There is about 4 or 5 miles to the westward of the North point of the island, and 2 miles from two islets off that part, a coral shoal with 4 or 5 fathoms on it, or perhaps less water.

Capt. Lamb, in the Baring, experienced strong N.W. winds and southerly currents late in December, 1815, which prevented him from gaining ground to the northward, on the West side of Hog Island: but after passing round its southern extremity, he got the wind favorable for proceeding to the northward, and found no southerly current in coasting along the eastern side of the island.

Pulo Baniak and adjacent islets.

PULO BANIAK, or BANIA,† distant 10 or 11 leagues E. S. Eastward from the South end of Hog Island, consist of two principal islands a little separated, one lying to the N. Eastward of the other, with several small ones contiguous to them. From the S. E. side of the easternmost, or large island, a chain of islets, and some shoals project considerably, but by keeping near the Baniaks, there is a safe channel between them and Passage Island, which is the easternmost of the chain, already mentioned in the preceding section 3d, where Passage Island is described. At the North end of Baniak, there is a bay in lat. 2° 18′ N., with coral shoals and a group of islands fronting it; there is a passage into it betwixt the two westernmost islands, and shelter inside, in from 16 to 9 fathoms water; a ship may also anchor outside of these islands, but the soundings are very irregular, and the bottom generally coral. The North end of Baniak, and the adjoining islands that form this bay, bear nearly East from the two Flat Islands off the South end of Hog Island, and there is a channel between them, 8 leagues broad. On the northernmost Baniak Island, there is a peaked hill like a sugar loaf. The southern extremity of the S. Westernmost island is in lat. 2° 0′ N., and East from this extreme, there is a passage betwixt the 1st and 2d island that lie off the S. E. end of the N. Easternmost large island, with irregular soundings in it, corally bottom. And 3d island Which is round and high, of the same appearance ns the 2d, lies to the southward of it 5 or 6 miles, and there are various depths in a safe passage betwixt them, generally from 36 to 28 and 19 fathoms, by keeping nearly in mid-channel. Ships coming from the N. Westward, if bound direct to Tappanooly with a fair wind, may steer for these islands, and pass to the southward of them, or between the two southernmost, then proceed to the eastward for Bird Island, leaving it on the starboard hand; having cleared the latter, and

* The Alfred's chronometers, corresponding nearly with observations taken by Capt. Heywood, and with the London's chronometers, made it 9 leagues more westerly, but probably the above stated longitude is nearest tits truth.

† Pulo Bania, i. e. many islands.

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To pass them and sail toward Tappanooly.

the shoal to the N.W. of it, a direct course may be steered for the North entrance of Tappanooly Bay. Some persons adopt the channel to the northward of Pulo Baniak, and from thence steer East, to go between Passage Island and the coast, as the channel between Pulo Baniak and Hog Island, and that between the former and the North end of Pulo Nyas, are equally safe: but the channel to the South of Pulo Nias is considered the best when bound to Tappanooly, for which brief directions are given in section 3d, preceding the description of the bay of this name.

Geo. Site of Pulo Nyas.

Description.

PULO NYAS, NAYS, or NIAS, the largest of the islands off the West coast of Sumatra, extends from about lat. 1° 36′ N., lon. 96° 55′ E. its northern pert, nearly in a S. E. direction to about lat. 0° 38′ N., lon. 97° 59′ E., and is 6 or 7 leagues in breadth. The norms them extreme bears South from Pulo Baniak, about 9 or 10 leagues, and about 3 leagues to the N. N. E. of this extremity, lies the small island Pulo Baby, with a 40 fathoms bank close to it on the South side, and a safe channel between it and the North end of Pulo Nyas. Many other small islands line the shores of the principal one, at different places, some of which, particularly on the West side, stretch out about 3 leagues, also a shoal at the same distance from the N.W. part of the island. Although the coast is steep in some places, there is anchorage inside of the group of small islands on the S.W. side, at the entrance of Seirombo River; also at a harbour close to the South point, there is good anchorage in an excellent bay, where bullocks, buffalos, goats, and poultry, are in great abundance, and water easily procured. The natives are said to be friendly, and of a different character from the generality of Malays. There is anchorage inside of the islands and shoals at the East point of the principal island, at the mouth of Nyas River: there is also, other places where a ship might anchor occasionally on the N. E. side, and betwixt the East and South points of the island. There is a fine river, about S. S. E. from Pulo Baby, where a ship may anchor in 10 or 11 fathoms, about North from the river. In general, the land is high, well clothed with trees, partly cultivated by the natives for rice, and this island was formerly well inhabited: the people are of small stature, and fairer than those of the adjacent coast, the women more particularly, have always been in great demand at Batavia, and other Dutch settlements; therefore, from 500 to 600 of the natives have been annually purchased here, and carried away in the small vessels employed on this trade.

The Dragon, brig, from Bengal, bound to New South Wales, touched at Seirombo for refreshments, in June, 1819, and Capt. Murat, who was in that vessel, has communicated the following information relative to this place.

At anchor in 9½ fathoms mud, with the mouth of the river bearing N. E. ½ E., Northwest point of the bay N.W. ¼ W., and isle in the middle of the bay, called Pulo Ache by the natives, E. by N. ¼ N. 1½ mile, two pyramidal islands, one E. by S. ¼ S. and the other S. E. by E. ¼ E., the group of islands in the offing from S. by W. ¼ W. to W. ¾ S. As a heavy surf then rolled over Seirombo Bar, the Rajah of the islands in the offing came on board, when we weighed, made sail, and afterward anchored in 17 fathoms mud and sand, with Silorongang village S. ¼ E. 1 mile, extremes of ditto island from S.W. by W. ½ W. to S. S. E. ¼ E., Noko village (a famous place for hogs) N. ¾ W. 2 miles, extremes of Noko Island N. by E. ¼ E. to N.W. by W. ½ W., Pulo Ache N. E. ¼ N. 5 miles, a small isle (the easternmost of the group) in one with the North-west point of Seirombo Bay N. N. E. ¾ E.

Silorongang village lies in a small bay faced with coral rocks, which renders the inside of them smooth for proas. Proceeding to the landing in a small boat, steer in shore from the northward, and pass between the coral rocks and the shore; but in a cutter or launch, steer or the breakers on the South side of the bay, betwixt which and the reef to the northward, steer for the South end of the village, with a man at the bow of the boat to direct her, for many patches of coral rock lie under the surface of the water. To the southward of the village, fresh water is got from a small stream in the same bay.

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The group of islands fronting Seirombo Bay, shelters it from the sea; but as some sand banks lie on the western side of the islands, it may be prudent to pass on the eastern side of them in coming from the northward, then sail into the bay. If you approach from the southward, you may enter without difficulty, as the South channel is safe, between the South extreme of the group and Pulo Ache; but two shoals which break at times, lie nearer to Pulo Ache than to the other side of the passage, which require caution in coming from the southward. To the northward of the N.W. point of Seirombo Bay, lies a large shoal, for which a good look out is requisite in coming from the northward, and 10 fathoms is a good track to round the point.

On the West side of Pulo Nyas, in lat. 1° 9′ N. is a group of four or five low islands, which have reefs extending a long way to the S. Westward of them, and it is probable there may be no safe passage inside of these.

The East coast has moderate depths, with good anchorage, and some fine rivers; especially one in lat. 0° 51′ N., where trade is carried on in proas: many isles line the coast here, as on the western side, but the sea being more smooth on the eastern coast, this part of Pulo Nyas is certainly the safest.

Bank of soundings.

Capt. Thornhill, in the David Scott, at 1 P. M., May 19th, 1825, sounded on a bank stretching out from Pulo Nias, not previously known, on which he had 18 fathoms sand and shells, with Pulo Nias bearing from North to N.W. ½ W., distant from the nearest shore 10 or 12 miles: steering to the eastward with light northerly breezes, had the same soundings till 3 P. M., when the depth increased suddenly to 35 fathoms no ground.

Pulo Nyas bearing from E. N. E. to E. by S., 8 or 9 leagues estimated distance, at 10 A. M. 31st October, 1812, Capt. Bean, of the ship Lady Barlow, saw breakers from the poop bearing E. N. E., distant only 2 miles. Steered S. S. E. 5 miles till noon, when the observed lat. was 0° 37′ N., lon. 96° 32′ E., by a good chronometer.

If this was a real danger, seen by Capt. Bean, it lies much farther from Pulo Nyas than the situation hitherto assigned to any of the reefs fronting the West side of that island. It seems probable, that the supposed danger here stated, might be the effect of strong currents or tides, producing ripplings like breakers, but it will be proper to keep a good look out in this situation.

Geo. Site of Clapps Island.

CLAPPS ISLAND, (called Clappers Island by the Dutch) situated on the equator, in clapps about lon. 98° 7′ E., distant about 10 or 11 leagues S. by E. from the South end of Pulo Nyas, and 7 or 8 leagues West from the N.W. end of Pulo Mintao, is low, covered with trees, and having some gaps in it, give it the appearance of several small isles, when first seen above the horizon. On the 6th and 7th of March, 1783, the Greyhound packet was near it, and describes a very dangerous ridge of breakers to extend along the island to the distance of 3 or 4 miles. Capt. Forrest also saw it in the night, and called it a low flat island. The brig, Olive Branch, got near to it, September 26th, 1808, and states it to be a low island with gaps in it: the wind then blowing very hard at N.W., she lost her main-mast, and was forced to bear away through the channel between Mintao and Se Beeroo, to refit at Padang. In February and March, the current sets strong out to the S.W. in the vicinity of these islands.

Geo. Site of Mintao.

PULO MINTAO, named so by the Portuguese, called formerly by the English NANTIAN, but BATOA* is said to be the name given to it by the natives, is the next large island to the S. Eastward of Pulo Nyas, extending from lat. 0° 1′ S., lon. 98° 10′ E., in a southerly direction to lat. 0° 41′ S., being about 14 leagues in length, and 5 or 6 in breadth. This, like the other large islands, is moderately elevated and hilly, covered with trees, and many small islands line its shores both on the East and West sides, with moderate depths

* Europeans generally apply this name to the island inside, between it and the coast of Sumatra.

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among them, and some of them form safe bays or harbours, little known to Europeans. The N. E. point of the island is a bluff, with a reef projecting a ¼ mile from it, and a few miles to the southward, on the East side, is formed a bay, called Lams Bay by the Dutch, in about lat. 0° 5′ S., where the Greyhound packet lay several days in March, 1783, and procured a few poultry, pigs, and cocoa-nuts, at a dear rate, from some natives who came from the North part of the island, and the water got in a creek on the Mintao shore, was brackish.

The Greyhound, when moored in 16 fathoms sand and shells, nearly in mid-channel between Mintao and the island that forms the East side of the bay, had the extremes of Mintao bearing from N.35° W., to S. 28′ E., the island forming the East side of the bay from S. 36° E. to S. 80° E., off the N. E. end of which projects a long reef, dry at low water; two other islands from N. 5° E. to N. 67° E., off the nearest shore ½ a mile. The mouth of an inlet also bore S. 64° W., which was found to be an arm of the sea, separating a low island about 3 miles round, from Mintao; and the other mouth of the inlet, is nearly opposite to the South point of the island on the East side of the bay, distant from each other a ½ mile.

After leaving this bay, the Greyhound, in steering for the N. E. point of Mintao, found the deepest water by keeping from the Mintao shore, toward the small island on the East side of the channel, having never less than 9 fathoms, except one cast of 7 fathoms; and this is said to be the only channel into Lams Bay, there being no passage in, to the southward.

The North part of the island does not extend above 11 or 12 miles East and West, forming a bay between the bluff point and another point about 3 miles West of it, which is foul on the East side near 2 cable's lengths from the shore, but the reef on the West side can be approached close. Two ships may be sheltered in this bay from southerly winds, but it is open to the northerly monsoon; and the Greyhound could not find any fresh water here, although it is the best place for refreshments, this part being inhabited, which is not the case at Lams Bay. The Greyhound anchored in 18 fathoms sand, off the bluff point 1½ mile, Mintao from S. E.¾ S., to W. by S. ¼ S., the outer small isle W. by N. ½ N., Pulo Penir from E. ¾ N. to N. E.½ N.

She weighed from hence March 26th, 1783, steered to the eastward for the bluff N. E. point of the island, and rounded the reef in 7 fathoms, at noon, within ½ a mile of the point, observed lat. 0° 1′ N. At 3 P. M. anchored in 10 fathoms good ground, about ¼ mile to the southward of the first small island in shore, to the southward of the point, and about 3 miles nearer to it than when in Lams Bay, extremes of Mintao from N. 32° W. to S. 31° E., Pulo Penir from N. 66° E. to the North end, shut in with a small island N. 20° E., the Watering Creek's mouth S. 19° W., distant ½ a mile. Here, she moored, unbent sails, and lay upward of a month, caulking the upperworks, &c., procured plenty of firewood, and water in the creek, which is probably scarce in the dry season, as the boat was obliged to go 3 miles up the creek on spring tides to fill the water, which was then indifferent; and few supplies were obtained from the natives, although the chief of the island visited the ship, so that she was obliged to go to Natal for supplies.

It is said the Padang boats go annually to Mintao for dammer and oil.

The West coast of the island extends about North and South nearly 40 miles, fronted by a chain of about 18 or 20 isles of various sizes, some of them several miles distant from the main island, dangerous to approach, being lined with reefs and high breakers, and no soundings very near them: About a league from the South point of the main island, there is a small sloping island, situated in about lat. 0° 45′ S., said to have soundings of 30 to 40 fathoms between it and the point, with reefs to the S. E. and southward, between it and the N. W. end of Se Beeroo.

Pulo Batoa.

PULO BATOA, called also Penir or Pingey, but Cassanie is said to be the name given to it by the natives, situated about 6 or 7 leagues to the N. Eastward of the North end of Mintao, nearly mid-way between it and Natal, is of considerable extent, stretching nearly

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East and West, having some islets and shoals off its S. E. end, which have been already mentioned in the description of the coast of Sumatra, and a chain of islands and shoals extend from it over toward Mintao. The South end of Batoa bears E. by N. from the N. E. point of Mintao.

A ship coming from the westward, and bound to Natal, may proceed through the great channel formed between the South end of Pulo Nyas and these islands, leaving Mintao and Batoa to the southward. This channel is safe with a good look out, but the prudent navigator will be cautious when near any of the islands during the night, as they are not yet sufficiently explored.

Geo. Site of Se Beeroo.

Channel between it and Mintao

To Sail through it.

SE BEEROO, or NORTH PORA, called Great Fortune, by the Dutch, extends nearly N.W. and S. E. about 23 leagues, the North point being in lat. 0° 56′ S., lon. 98° 38′ E., by lunar observations, and bears nearly S. E. from the South end of Pulo Mintao, distant about 8 or 9 leagues, which is the breadth of SE BEEROO CHANNEL, formed between these islands, but directly in the middle of it there is an extensive reef of breakers, which is in one with the small island off the South end of Pulo Mintao bearing N.W. and N.W. by N. This reef is very extensive, for the brig Olive Branch, in passing to the southward of it September 27th, 1808, saw the breakers extend toward Mintao as far as they could be discerned from the mast-head, and the southern part of them seemed to be about mid-channel between Mintao and Se Beeroo. When the breakers bore E. by N. ¼ N., distant about 1 mile, she had no ground 70 fathoms; but after passing the reef and bringing it to bear to the westward, she got on a rocky bank with overfalls from 15 to 20 fathoms, when the South part of Mintao bore N. W. by W. about 5 leagues, and the extremes of Se Beeroo from S. ½ W. to E. S. E.; steering from thence eastward, at a moderate distance from Se Beeroo, the depths increased to 25 and 30 fathoms, and shortly afterward to no ground. The proper channel, from the reef to the North end of Se Beroo, is about 4 leagues broad, having soundings from 15 to 26 fathoms in it, by keeping within 3 or 4 miles of Se Beeroo: a little to the westward of a direct line drawn from the West end of the reef to the N.W. part of that island, there are no soundings, nor any to the eastward of the North point of the island, at the distance of 3 miles from the shore. The N. W. point of Se Beeroo is in lat. 1° 0′ S., and 5 or 6 leagues to the westward of its North point, forming the entrance of the channel on the South side. Although little frequented, this appears to be a good channel, convenient for ships bound from the westward to Padang, because it lies opposite to that place. When N. W. winds prevail, a ship steering for it ought to keep well to the northward, and make the South end of Pulo Mintao, then steer to the S. Eastward for the N. W. part of Se Beeroo, to give a birth to the reef between them; afterward, she may keep within 3 or 4 miles of the northern side of the latter island, in steering to the eastward through the channel; a stranger, however, ought not to run through it in the night, unless in a case of necessity.

This channel has been lately more frequented than formerly; the ship, Elizabeth, Captain Wells, went through it February 3d, 1755, and Capt. G. Hayter, then 2d mate of that ship, made a plan of it. Capt. Bennet has gone through it several times; Capt. Owen, also made a plan of this channel, in his passage through it in January, 1812, in H. M. S. Cornelia. The ship, Hermes, of Calcutta, Capt. Holl, was unfortunately wrecked on the reef South of Mintao, that bounds the North side of the channel, a few years ago, by not keeping over toward the North end of Se Beeroo. The Cornelia, got soundings of 27 fathoms, about 5 miles W. by N. from the N. W. point of Se Beeroo, and by keeping within 4 miles of the North coast of this island, she carried regular soundings of 20 and 19 fathoms through the channel, and the breakers on the mid-channel shoal, were only seen from the mast-head.

Se Beeroo, is generally high land, covered with wood, higher in the middle than toward the extremities, with a sandy beach in many parts, and a great surf breaking often upon the shore. On the N: E. side, some small islands are said to lie a little way off; others are

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situated near the S. W. side and South point: betwixt these and the principal island, there is a channel with regular soundings from 16 to 20 fathoms, according to the description of the snow, Jenny, which vessel, in January, 1769, went through it, between the small islands and Se Beeroo; and to pass through it, her directions are nearly as follows.

Channel close to the S. W. part of Se Beeroo

A ship intending to proceed for the Sumatra Coast, by the channel between Mintao and Se Beeroo, and having been forced to leeward of it by N. W. winds, may occasionally pass through the strait to the southward of the latter. Steer in for the West side of Se Beeroo, with the highest part of the land bearing about E. N. E., but not more to the northward until in 17 or 18 fathoms white clay, which soundings will continue by keeping about mid-channel between it and the small islands that front its S. W. end. Haying run along until the 3d island (counting from N. Westward) is brought to bear about West, the North point of the strait will be seen to the eastward. A boat may be kept a-head in steering to the eastward, and the point on the South side of the strait, will soon be discerned, known by two tall trees about half a cable's length from the other trees, standing on the extremity of the point among the rocks. The passage is clear until abreast of this point, but in steering from it to the eastward, a good look out from the mast-head is requisite, with a boat a-head sounding, for in this part of the passage there are many rocks on both sides, projecting from the islands that lie contiguous to the passage. The easternmost island near Se Pora, may be approached close in passing, to avoid great overfalls and shoal soundings on the North side of the strait, and a reef of breakers projecting from the S. Easternmost island off Se Beeroo. When this reef is brought to bear N. W. by W., the depth will be 45 fathoms, and farther eastward, no ground.

On the S.W. side of Se Beeroo, there are white cliffs a little to the northward of the N. Westernmost island that forms the channel, and this island has breakers and foul ground stretching from it to the N. W. and Westward.

Geo. Site of the S.W. point of Se Beeroo.

S. W. point of Se Beeroo, is in lat. 1° 47′ S., lon. 99° 2′ E. by Captain Torin's observations, agreeing nearly with others taken in the Walpole; and the southern extremity is about 3 leagues more to the eastward, and a little farther south.

Seaflower's Channel.

Geo. Site.

SEAFLOWER'S CHANNEL, situated between the islands Se Beeroo and Se Pora, to English navigators appears to be a new discovery, made by Capt. W. Owen, who passed through it in H. M. Brig, Seaflower, November 10th, 1806, during the night. Being in lat. 2° 18′ S., lon. 99° 5′ E. at noon, with the appearance of a clear passage open to the N. Eastward, between the islands Se Beeroo and Se Pora, he steered for it N. E. by E., and afterward N. E. in passing through the channel, which he entered in the evening, and got clear of it about 10 P. M. This channel is bounded on the West side by an islet that lies near the S. E. point of Se Beeroo, and on the East side by the N.W. end of Se Pora and an islet near the North end of the latter. These islets bear about E. ½ N. and W. ½ S. of each other, distant 12 or 13 miles, and when about half way between them in mid-channel at 8½ P. M. the Seaflower's place was lat. 2° 0′ S., lon. 99° 33′ E., or 1° 20½′ W. from Indrapour Point by chronometer. The islet off Se Beeroo that forms the West side of the channel, appeared to be in lat. 2° 1′ S. deduced from noon observation, and 1° 26′ West from Indrapour Point. Capt. Owen, describes this channel to be 8 miles wide, clear of danger, and they got no soundings at 30 fathoms in passing through.

The Seaflower, went through this channel again, in 1808, steering about N. by E. ½ E. until clear of it to the Eastward; and several ships have passed through it since that time.

These observations of Capt. Owen, make the South end of Se Beeroo about 11 or 12 miles to the southward of Capt. Torins's observations.

The Seaflower's Channel, described above, certainly cannot be that through which the Jenny passed, as the latter was found to be intricate and winding, not above a mile wide in some parts, with soundings of 16, 20, and 25 fathoms; whereas, the Seaflower's Channel is

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8 miles wide, and apparently clear of danger. The Jenny, therefore, must have passed close to the S. W. and South end of Se Beeroo, within the islands which front this part of it, and form the N. W. and West sides of Seaflower's Channel; otherwise, there must be a gut or strait through Se Beeroo, in about lat. 1° 45′ S., through which this vessel went, if her description be correct.

Geo. Site of Se Pora.

Muriocks Bay.

SE PORA, or SOUTH PORA, extends from the N. W. point in about lat. 2° 0′ S., in a direction nearly S. E. to Point Marlborough, in lat. 2° 23′ S., lon. 99° 58′ E., which is the South point of the island; it being about 12 leagues in length, and nearly half that breadth at the North part, decreasing gradually to the southern extremity. It is mostly covered with wood, rather less elevated than Se Beeroo, and both these islands are distant about 17 leagues from the coast of Sumatra. A little eastward of the N. W. point of Se Pore, HURLOCKS BAY is situated, directly South of the small islands which front the shore, with soft ground in it, and moderate depths for anchorage; and there is a narrow channel leading from it to an inner bay or harbour, farther inland to the S. W. The outer bay being open to N. E. winds, the inner one must be preferred, and in passing through the narrow channel, the starboard shore should be approached more close than the opposite side, which is rocky. This harbour is sheltered from all winds, inside of the point on the starboard side, where there is a red sandy beach, and anchorage in 8 to 10 fathoms, or in 5 or 6 fathoms, close to the shore; the depths in the narrow passage going in, are from 4, to 6 or 7 fathoms. Capt. Whiteway, who discovered this bay, makes the North coast of Se Pora extend East and E. S. Eastward from it about 3½ leagues to Cape Tilleroo, the N. E. extreme of the island, with a small island called Pulo Se Gere, adjoining to the coast, from which to the entrance of Hurlocks Bay, a reef projects a great way out from the shore.

The East coast of Se Pora, extends from Cape Tilleroo S. S. E. about 10 leagues to Point Marlborough, and in this space, contains two considerable bays; Se Ooban Bay, about 3 leagues to the southward of Cape Tilleroo, and Se Labba Bay, 7 or 8 miles more to the southward.

See Ooban Bay.

Se Ooban Bay, may be known by a large tuft of trees on the starboard side going in; the course into it is S. W., and a ship should keep in mid-channel, (where there are from 24 to 30 fathoms), to avoid the rocks projecting from the points on each side of the entrance. There is a brook of fresh water at the N. W. part of the bay, but the best anchorage is in the South part, with the point on the South side of the entrance bearing about N. E., in moderate depths from 8 to 12 or 14 fathoms. After a ship has anchored, it will be proper to examine the bottom around her, by sounding in the boat, for in some parts there are patches of coral rock.

Se Labba Bay.

Se Labba Bay, is known by a round peaked hill close to its South side, called Turk's Cap, situated in lat. 2° 17′ S., which is seen from both sides of the island. In entering this bay the course is about S. W., and the depths 45 and 40 fathoms, decreasing to 14 or 12 fathoms inside. Rocks project from both points, but farthest from that on the South side of the entrance, which must have a good birth in passing. There is a coral shoal nearly in the middle of the bay, even with the water's edge, to the southward of which, the bottom is mud, and proper for anchorage. At either of these bays, a ship may be supplied with wood, water, a few hogs, yams, some poultry, and cocoa-nuts, from the people of the few straggling villages on this side of the island; but the West side, is said to be destitute of inhabitants.

Between Cape Tilleroo and Point Marlborough, the East coast of Se Pora is generally steep, but rocks project a considerable way from the shore in some places, particularly to the southward of the Turk's Cap; and from abreast of it, soundings extend along the coast toward Point Marlborough.

The West coast is also rocky, with some small islands adjoining, and the sea breaks high upon the shore; two of these islands, situated about 4 leagues to the westward of Point

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Marlborough, lie close to the shore, and near each other; they are low and flat, covered with cocoa-nuts, and rocky to seaward.

The channel between the South end of Se Pora and North Poggy Island, is about 3 leagues broad, and very safe; there are soundings from 20 to 40 fathoms on a coral bank that stretches across betwixt the islands, when the Turk's Cap and Point Marlborough are in one, bearing about N.W. by N.; and a little farther to the eastward, there is no ground. Point Marlborough is bluff, and moderately elevated, fronted by adjoining rocks.

North Poggy

NORTH POGGY, or NORTH NASSAU ISLAND, is about 7 leagues long from N. N.W. to S. S. E., and about half that breadth; the North point, called Cape Cuddalore, being in lat. 2° 32′ S., and bearing S. E. from Point Marlborough on Se Pora, distant about 10 miles; the South point situated in lat. 2° 52′ S., forms the West side of Se Cockup Strait, which separates the North and South Poggy Islands from each other. They are both high, covered with wood, and may be seen 14 or 15 leagues.

the adjoining islands.

On the West coast of North Poggy, there is a group of islands, with passages and anchorage between the northernmost of them, called Pulo Laubo Laubo; but the best channel to the anchorage, is round the North end of this island, from which projects a reef; and on the East side, betwixt the island and the Poggy shore, is the road, where a ship may anchor in 12 or 13 fathoms, sheltered from all winds excepting those that blow from northward. Se Laubo Laubo village, is situated on the side of a rivulet at the S. E. side of the bay, where water may be procured.

and Se Cockup Strait.

Battoo Mongo, another village, lies near the S.W. point of the island, which is low land, and Se and from thence to the South entrance of the Strait of Se Cockup, the coast stretches nearly East about 3 leagues, and is very rocky, with high breakers upon the shore. This Strait is of semicircular form, containing several small islands at the southern part, and one at the other end, which opens to the eastward; and although safe, it is not a mile wide in some places. The passage to enter from the southward is between the islands off its mouth, one called Pulo Serasso contiguous to North Poggy, and two called Pulo Supaw, near South Poggy, by keeping in mid-channel; and on the West side of the other islands inside, where the depths are from 10 to 15 fathoms. On both sides of the N.W. point of South Poggy, which projects out into the middle of the strait, there are small bays or coves, with soft bottom and regular soundings, where a ship may occasionally anchor out of the tide; for it runs 3 knots at times, in the middle of the passage.

Timber for masts.

Capt. J. C. Ross, anchored in this Strait, in 1823, and cut a new foremast for his ship, the Borneo, near the shore of the North Poggy Island, of an excellent species of timber. The tree is called Katooka by the natives, and although the size required was 68 feet, the chief difficulty was to find a tree small enough, those of an inferior size near the shore, having been cut down by the natives, to split into planks for the Padang and Bencoolen markets, where the timber of late years has come into repute. The first tree cut down, measured 97 feet below the branches, and 28 inches diameter at the smallest part, and this being too large, Capt. Ross was obliged to select a smaller one, which foremast has been carefully examined in the Borneo, in August 1826, whilst lying in the river Thames, and found to be perfectly sound.

Se Cockup River, is opposite to the N.W. point of South Poggy, on the western shore, where fresh water may be procured, and the village of that name is several miles up the river; there is also fresh water under the high land at North Poggy S. E. point, which forms the North side of the eastern entrance of the strait. This entrance is very narrow, the small

* Capt. Ross, is of opinion, that the shores of this strait, furnish the best, and most conveniently obtained spars, of any place known in those seas. The natives assisted in cutting the spar, and getting it on board, and thought themselves amply remunerated, by a present of coarse cutlery, beads, and small checked handkerchiefs, of about 10 dollars value, altogether.

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Island Tongo being mid-way between the points, and both these and the island having rocks projecting a little way from them; but there are 20 fathoms in the middle of the narrow passage, betwixt the island and South Poggy Point. A little outside of the strait, about ½ a mile eastward from the point on the North side, there is a reef of rocks even with the water's edge. Pulo Serasso at the South end of the strait, is separated from North Poggy by a very narrow channel, with from 5 to 10 feet water in it, fronting which there is a small island, having a rock upon it resembling a thatched house, when viewed from the S.W. The sea breaks with great violence upon the rock, and upon the low rocky shore to the westward.

Geo. Site of South Poggy

SOUTH POGGY, or SOUTH NASSAU ISLAND, extends from the North point at the East end of Se Cockup Strait, in lat. 2° 50′ S., about S. E. by S. 11 or 12 leagues to the South point in lat. 3° 20′ S., about lon. 100° 34′ E.;* and it is from 3 to 4 leagues in breadth. Several small islands lie contiguous to the western coast, and on the East side, a little to the northward of the South point of the island, four small islands form a circular group, with a harbour inside of them: the channel between the two northernmost islands has 10 fathoms in it, and there are from 6 to 14 fathoms inside the harbour. This is generally called Southeast Harbour, which is the only place of shelter on the East side of South Poggy, but soundings extend along it to the North point, where a vessel may occasionally anchor, opposite to some of the small villages.

The sea coast of the Poggy Islands, in several places where the land is low, abounds with cocoa-nuts; some small spots have been planted with pepper vines, but the natives are averse to labour. It is said, that on each of the three large islands, North, and South Poggy, and Se Pora, there were about 800 inhabitants, when Captain Forrest was there about 40 years ago. The tide among these, and the other islands which form the chain, rises from 3 to 5 feet in the springs; but currents are often found to run with the prevailing winds.

Islands Larg and Borgen.

LAAGE, or LARG,† and BERGEN, are two small islands situated to the East, and S. Eastward of the South end of South Poggy; Larg bearing from it about S. E. by E. 9 leagues, in lat. 3° 30′ S., lon. 1° 12′ West from Rat Island by chronometers, and a small round island with trees on it, lies nearly close to the East side of Larg, joined to the reef which surrounds them. Bergen bears about N. W. by N. from Larg distant 4 or 4½ leagues, and the channel between them is safe.

Coral banks adjacent.

There appear to be some CORAL BANKS to the westward of Larg, very little known, which probably are not dangerous. The Europa, May 2d, 1797, steering E. S. E. to pass to the southward of Larg, at 11 A. M. had ground 33 fathoms, next cast 17, 10, 9, 8, and 7 fathoms; she then hauled off S.W. and deepened in half an hour to 65 fathoms no ground. When in 7 fathoms, upon this coral shoal, the East point of Larg bore E. by N. about 3 leagues; and at noon it bore E. by N. 4 leagues, the observed lat. 3° 32′ S. Until this shoal is better known, it will be prudent to keep 4 leagues from the West side of Larg, in steering to pass it to the southward.

The Georgina, from Calcutta, towards Bencoolen, February 24th, 1824, at 6 P. M. had the South point of South Poggy bearing N. ½ E. about 5 or 6 leagues, lon. 100° 11′ E. by chronometers, steered East 18 miles till 12 P. M., had then soundings of 26 fathoms sand and stones. She steered from this position South 5 miles in 26 to 25 fathoms, then East 4 miles in 26 fathoms regular soundings till 3½ A. M. 25th, and at 4 A. M. lost soundings with 50 fathoms line.

* Capt. W. Owen made the South end of this Island in lat. 3° 21′S. and 1° 34′ West of Rat Island by chronometer, when passing in H. M. Sloops Baracouta and Samarang in February, 1811.

† In the Dutch charts, these two islands, are marked Laage and Bergen, signifying that the former is Low and the other High, which have been transmuted by the English into real names, by the corruption of into Larg.

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The David Scott, Capt. Thornhill, May 3d, 1825, had 25 fathoms hard bottom, the centre of Larg bearing N.W. ½ N. distant at least 3 leagues, and the small Isle off the East end of Larg N. N. W. ½ W. about 10 miles; being nearly calm, sent the boat to sound two or three cables' lengths from the ship, and she found the same bottom. As other coral spots may probably exist in the vicinity of Larg, not yet discovered, it seems prudent to give this island a good birth on all sides.

The channel between Larg and South Poggy, seems wide and safe, according to the account of the ship Addington, which passed through it in July, 1804, or rather the channel between Larg and Bergen, which Capt. Owen passed through in H. M. Sloop Baracouta in February, 1811.

Geo. Site of Trieste Island.

TRIESTE, or REEFS ISLAND, in lat. 4° 3′ S., lon. 101° 20′ E., or 22 leagues to the westward of Fort Marlborough,* may be seen about 5 leagues from the deck of a large ship. It is small, extending about 1½ mile N. E. by N. and S. W. by S., nearly environed by a reef, but there is a coral bank of soundings stretching 3 or 4 miles from it on the West side, and also on the East side, where a vessel may anchor occasionally in 25 or 30 fathoms, if drifted near it by the current during calm weather; and some fresh water may be got upon the island, in the rainy season. With Trieste bearing N. N. E. about 12 miles, Capt. Thornhill, in the David Scott, had soundings from 65 to 85 fathoms, when passing in May 1825. The channel between this island and Larg, is spacious and safe.

Island Engano.

ENGANO, the southernmost of the large islands fronting the West coast of Sumatra, and distant from it about 20 leagues, is from 6 to 8 leagues in extent, of triangular form, having a level appearance when viewed far off, and may be discerned about 7 or 8 leagues from the deck. It is fortified by a rocky shore, with high breakers mostly all round, the rocky ledges projecting out 2 or 3 miles in some places, with irregular soundings about a league farther out, over a bottom of coral rock. When passing the South end of the island in the Atlas, about 2 leagues distance, we had 23 fathoms red and yellow coral rock; at the same time, high breakers on the reefs appeared about mid-way between us and the shore. On the East side, to the northward of the S. E. point, there is a bay inside of four small islands, with anchorage over a sandy bottom, and shelter from most winds in the upper part of it, which extends considerably into the land. The islands are surrounded by rocks, except the innermost small one, of a sandy soil, has 3 or 4 fathoms close to, on the inside; and there is anchorage near it, over a sandy bottom. The channel leading into the bay, is betwixt the two outermost islands, having 18 fathoms coral rock in mid-channel, and 7 to 4 fathoms white sand inside, between the inner island and the North point of the bay, and here it is narrow, and bounded by rocks. To the northward of the bay, there is a small stream of fresh water, but the landing in most parts is difficult; it abounds with good timber, fine fish, yams, and cocoa-nuts. Capt. Owen, visited this island in November, 1806, in H. M. Sloop Seaflower; and H. M. Ship Dover, grounded near Amsterdam Island, the argest of those fronting the bay, November 24th, 1809. When at anchor in 5 fathoms beween the islands, for the convenience of watering, observed lat. 5° 27′ S. the S. E. point of Engano bearing S. by W.¼ W., East Point N. by W. ¼ W., Eastern Island North to N. N. E. ¾ E., Western Island S. ¾ E., Small Green Islet S.W. ¾ S., Watering Place S.W. W. Whilst watering here, the crews of the Dover's boats were attacked by the natives, nd several of the people speared.

Geo. Site.

Capt. Owen's observations, agree with those of the Dover in placing the anchorage beveen the islands in lat. 5° 27′ S., lon. 102° 38′ E.: the North point of the principal island

* Capt. Owen, made it in lat. 4° 3½′ S. and about 1° 8′ West of Rat Island.

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he made in lat. 5° 12′ S., lon. 102° 20′ E., and the South point appeared to be in lat. 5° 39′S. lon. 102° 26′ E. or 5 miles East of Rat Island, Fort Marlborough.

The Snow Fancy, made the South point in lat. 5° 33′ S., and Capt. Napier made it in latitude 5° 31′ S. or 8 miles less than Capt. Owen. The island is well inhabited, by people nearly of the same colour, but stouter, and more active thin the Malays, and go without clothing. They are armed with spears made of hard wood, pointed with bone or iron, which they use for striking fish, and they have canoes that carry 6 or 8 men.

Capt. John Napier, in the ship, Good Hope, in 1816, was sent from Fort Marlborough, in search of the survivors of the crew of the ship Union, Capt. Barker, who were retained in captivity by the inhabitants of this island, after the ship was wrecked there. Capt. Napier made a sketch of the island, which was engraved at Calcutta in 1817, accompanied by the following remarks and observations.

Geo. Site of the North Point.

North Point of Engano is in lat. 5° 15′ S., lon. 102° 25′ E., and the Northern coast is the bold, having no soundings from 3 to 5 miles off; the beach consists mostly of sand, but in some places the shore is rocky.

Contiguous Islands.

From the North Point the coast extends E. by S. ¾ S. 15 miles, to a point in lat. 5° 20′S. lon. 102° 39′ E., and from this another point bears S. S. E. 2½ miles. South 3 miles of the latter lies North Island, covered with trees, and excepting a small opening on the West side, it is surrounded by a coral reef of considerable extent, partly dry at low water, but having deep water close to it all round. South Island, distant 3 miles S. by W. from North Island, is also covered with trees, and surrounded by a reef, excepting the Western side, which has a sandy beach bold to approach. Middle Island is very conspicuous from the sea, having a high sandy beach, with a tuft of trees on the centre. A reef extends from this island to the S. S. E. and Eastward, but it is bolder to approach on the North and West sides. Sandy Island, bearing N. N.W. a small ½ mile from Middle Island, is not more than 6 feet above the surface of the sea, and a reef projects from it both to the East and Westward; but on the North side it is bold, with 8 fathoms close to the beach.

Passage between them.

The reef of the main Island projects far out toward Sandy Island, rendering the passage narrow, though perfectly safe, the reefs being steep-to, on both sides, with 10 and 11 fathoms water in the channel. The passage between Sandy and Middle Islands, is still narrower, with 11 fathoms water, and equally safe. The passage between Middle and South Islands has 16 and 17 fathoms water, and is also safe, by keeping near to South Island until it bear to the N. Eastward.

Between South Island and the low S. E. point of the main Island, there is no passage even for a boat. The passage between North Island and the main should not be attempted, as the reef extends far out from the coast, rendering the passage very narrow.

Anchorage.

Outside of Middle and Sandy Islands, there is shelter from the prevailing winds in either monsoon, in 12 to 14 fathoms sand, good anchorage, and plenty of wood may be got from either of the outer islands; but as water can only be procured in the Inner Bay to the Northward of the village, a ship requiring a supply should anchor there, to protect her boats and people, the natives being very treacherous. You may anchor in 4, 5, or 6 fathoms sand and mud, within little more than a mile of the creek, keeping nearest the South shore, which has in most places a sandy beach, bold to approach, the trees growing quite into the water in some parts.

Geo. Site of S. E. Point.

The S. E. Point of Engano, in lat. 5° 30¼′ S., lon. 102° 38¼′ E. is low and sandy, covered partly by a range of palmira trees. The reef projects from this point 2 miles to the S. E. and Eastward, and joins that from South Island, having very high breakers.

South Point.

South Point, in lat. 5° 30′ 50′ S., lon. 102° 29¼′ E., distant 9 miles West, a little Southerly from the S. E. point, projects out in an acute angle, having about a mile distant to the S. Eastward, a Pyramid or Black Rock, about 8 feet above water. Between these points the

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coast forms a concavity, fronted by the coral reef, at from 1 to 12 mile distant, upon which the sea breaks high in many places. In ranging along this part of the coast at 4 miles distance, no danger could be seen from the mast-head, excepting the reef, which is steep-to; and it was here, about 3 miles Eastward of the South Point, that the Union was said to have been lost.

and West Point.

West Point in lat. 5° 21′ S., lon. 102° 19½′ E., by chronometer from Rat Island, allowing the latter to be in lon. 102° 26½′ E. bears from the South point N.W. distance 14 miles, but the coast between them forms a concavity, having a small island near it in lat.5° 26′ S., lon. 102° 26′ E., surrounded by a coral reef to seaward, projecting above ½ a mile, with high breakers. Here we remained four days, and anchored several times in 25 fathoms coral and sand, in coasting along this part, where the greater part of the Union's crew were procured; which is higher, seems better cultivated, with more inhabitants than any other part of the coast. The coral reef, that fortifies this coast, must be very dangerous to approach in strong S.W. winds.

From the West Point, the North Point of the island bears N. E. a little Easterly distant 8 miles, the coast between them forming two intermediate points, from which the reef projects above a mile, with soundings from 35 to 25 fathoms near it; and soundings of 35 to 15 fathoms, are obtained on most parts of the Southern coast, at the distance of ¼ to 1½ or 2 miles from the reef.

Ships steering for Sunda Strait during the N.W. monsoon, generally endeavour to make this island, when not certain of their longitude.

Cocos, or Keeling Islands.

COCOS, or KEELING ISLANDS, have been briefly described in Volume 1st of this work, but their value to navigators has hitherto remained unknown, until Capt. J. C. Ross visited the Southern Group in the ship Borneo, and found a good harbour, where he lay from the 5th to the 9th December 1825, putting the ship in a proper state to encounter the stormy weather that might he expected on the passage to England, as she had been found rather crank after leaving Padang.

Borneo Coral Isles.

PortRefuge.

Surrounding Islands.

Description.

As there are two groups of islands, in those seas, known by the general name of Cocos, viz. one near the Great Andaman, and another near Hog Island, off the West coast of Sumatra, Capt. Ross has distinguished the islands of the Southern group by different names, in his plan of the harbour which he explored within this circular chain. KEELING, is the original name of these islands, which Capt. Ross proposes to continue to the North Island, it being far detached from the Southern group. This group, named BORNEO CORAL ISLES, consists of a circular chain of islands almost touching each other, lined on the exterior side by a steep coral reef, and forming inside an extensive lagoon or harbour, named PORT REFUGE, having only one entrance for ships at the northern extremity, which is about 3 miles wide, bounded on the west side by Horsburgh's Island, the northernmost of the chain, and considerably detached from the others, and Direction Island bounds the entrance on the east side. Straggling rocks, and an extensive reef, called Turk's Reef, stretches from Horsburgh's Island to the South and S. S. Westward, nearly uniting with Ross's Island, which is the next to the S. S.W., and 5 or 6 miles in length. Nearly joining to the south end of this, is Hare's Island, then Fairlie's Island, at the east end of which, there is a gap containing some islets; and close to these, Scott's Island is situated in the form of a crescent, at the S. E. angle of the harbour, the south and western side of which, is bounded by the above named coral formations. From the north end of Scott's Island, the east side of the harbour is bounded by a close succession of small isles, stretching to Clunie's Island, which approaches near to Direction Island, there being only a few islets between them. This coral chain of islands, or rather, wall, which forms Port Refuge, in the middle of the ocean, is only from 3 to 10 feet elevated above the sea, at high water spring tides, but most of the isles are covered with cocoa-nut trees, and two other species, one of them soft, white, and spongy;

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the other heavy, hard, dark looking timber. The cocoa-nuts contiguous to the sea are saltish to the taste, and small, but those in the middle of the islands are good. The beaches abound with land crabs, and aquatic birds, and Capt. Ross procured some turtle; the ground on Direction Island, was found too hard, on trial, to admit of digging to any considerable depth, with the view of getting fresh water.

Directions.

A ship intending to enter Port Refuge, should pass near to the north end of Direction Island, to avoid the reef on the western side of the entrance; soundings will be got suddenly, when on a transit line joining the two islands that form it, and when inside about a mile, having brought the north extreme of Direction Island to bear about E. N. E. or N. E. by E., she ought to anchor in 6 or 6½ fathoms in the outer anchorage, which is perfectly smooth, and not proceed farther until after having examined the channels leading to the East or West harbours' inside, which harbours are separated by a large rocky shoal in the middle of the port, called Dymoke's Shoal, or Middle Ground, having on it from 1¼ to 2½ fathoms water. The southern extremity of the port also, is all very shoal.

The outer anchorage is sufficiently capacious to contain a great number of ships, but in some parts, spotted with mushroom coral, which may easily be avoided in anchoring, as the water is very clear. The bar or flat, inside of the outer anchorage, is extensive, also spotted widely with coral, and all the rocks are of this substance.

Ships drawing above 18 feet water, should not attempt to sail in over the bar, but if on an emergency they do so, the coral patches may be avoided, by a careful person on the fore yard, directing the ship's course. These patches are elevated two or three feet above the natural level of the ground, and being of the mushroom species, of a darkish colour, are easily discerned at ¾ of a cable's length distance, as the water is extremely clear, and the sandy bottom of snowy whiteness.

Ships drawing about 21 or 22 feet water, intending to go inside, may warp over the bar, and afterward, chuse either the Eastern or Western harbours at discretion, taking care to avoid Dymoke's Shoal, which is an extensive coral flat, with overfalls near its edges, and lying on dark bottom, is not easily discernible, The depths on the bar are 3½, 3¾ to 4 fathoms, and the best track is a little nearer to the islands on the eastern side than mid-channel, the depth increasing when over the bar to 5, 6, 7, or 8 fathoms in approaching the inner harbour, on either side of Dymoke's Shoal.

Geo. Site.

Capt. Ross, made the extent of the Borneo Coral Isles about 6 leagues from north to south, the extremity of the reef that projects to the N.W. about ¼ mile from Horsburgh's Island, being in lat. 12° 3′ S., and the southern extremity of the reef fronting Scott's and Fairlie's Islands, is in lat. 12° 21′S., and their extreme breadth is about 4 leagues.

Capt. Driscoll, of the Lonach, from Port Jackson bound to Bombay, Nov. 24th, 1825, passed close to the northernmost of the Borneo Coral Isles, and sent a boat to that called Horsburgh's Island by Capt. Ross, which Capt. Driscoll made in lat. 12° 3′ S. by noon observation taken two hours previously, and in lon. 97° 54′ E. by chronometers, allowing Bald Head on the S. Western coast of New Holland to be in lon. 118° 23′ E.—and he made it in lon. 97° 2½′ E. by observations of Sun and Moon, which agrees very exact with the position assigned to these islands in the first volume of this work. The Lonach's boat landed on a fine white sandy beach, covered with crabs, and aquatic birds, and a path was perceived where the branches were parted, and the leaves trodden down, leading into the jungle; several snakes were also seen, and a large mast, with a bowsprit and teak canine, the remains of a wreck.

The tide or flood, runs into Port Refuge, about 1½ mile per hour over the bar, rises from 5 to 6 feet, high water about 4 hours on the full and change of the moon.

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SAILING DIRECTIONS to, and from the STRAIT of SUNDA, and toward the STRAITS EAST of JAVA: NORTH COAST of the former, and adjoiningISLANDS.

To Sail from Hindoostan to Sunda Strait, between Mareb and October:

SHIPS proceeding from Ceylon or the Coromandel Coast for Sunda Strait, whilst the S.W. monsoon is prevailing in North latitude, and the S. E. monsoon in South latitude, from March to October, ought to run down great part of their easting with the S.W. monsoon, before they cross the equator. If they cross it in lon. 93° or 94° E., Southerly and S. S. Westerly winds, with variable squalls, may be expected to carry them to the S. Eastward, and a reasonable distance from the islands off the West coast of Sumatra may be preserved, by making a tack to the S. Westward at times, when the wind veers to the S. E. A drain of current to the northward may sometimes be experienced, but a ship will generally make considerable progress to the S. Eastward by taking every advantage of the shifts of wind; for, in the vicinity of the islands, or within a few degrees of them, the winds hang much from South and S. S. Westward; whereas, in the ocean, far to the westward, the monsoon will be found to prevail from the S. E. as a ship advances into South latitude, which will greatly prolong her passage, should she have crossed the equator far to the westward.

If bound to Fort Marlborough, it will be prudent to get into the parallel of that place before the islands are approached, then steer in for the coast to the southward of Trieste Island, or betwixt it and Larg, as the winds may render necessary. If a ship is bound direct to Sunda Strait, it will be proper to keep well out from the land until she reach the entrance of the strait, where her progress will generally be more speedy than by keeping near the shore; although a fast sailing vessel may pass along the coast backward and forward, between Fort Marlborough and Sunda Strait, in either monsoon.

and during the opposite season.

SHIPS bound to Sunda Strait, from October to Mardi, when the N.W. monsoon generally prevails to the southward of the equator, may follow nearly the same track recommended above for the opposite season, if they depart from the Coromandel Coast, and are enabled to run down a considerable part of their easting with the N. E. monsoon, before they cross the equator.

Ships departing from Ceylon, in October, November, March, and April (when N.W. winds are seldom found to prevail muck in South latitude), ought to stand off nearly close to the wind, if it blow from the N. E. quarter; and endeavour to make several degrees of easting before they are forced close to the equator by the N. E. monsoon, which they will probably experience in November, and March, at leaving Ceylon. In December, January, and February, this may not be always necessary, for the N.W. monsoon generally blows strongest in these months to the southward of the equatot, particularly in the latter part of December, all January, and part of February. In these months, ships may shape a direct course from the South, or S. E. part of Ceylon, toward the entrance of Sunda Strait; but, even at this time, it is prudent to stand to the E. S. Eastward with the N. E. monsoon, until the bay is well open, to avoid strong westerly currents and light winds, which are liable to prevail in November and December, on the meridian of Ceylon, nearly to the equator; and in the space comprised between that meridian and the Maldiva Islands.

To steer for the straits East of Java.

SHIPS bound to any of the straits East of Java, ought, in the strength of the N.W. monsoon, to make the Island Noesa Baron, in order to correct their reckoning; for in December

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and January, the weather is often thick near the South coast of Java, with strong westerly winds and easterly currents. Should a ship fall in with that coast much farther to the westward, and coast along it at the distance of 4 or 5 leagues, she will generally have the winds more brisk near the shore, than if farther out in the offing.

Captain J. A. Pope, in the ship Minerva, bound from Bombay to China, with the Ardasier in company, left Ceylon, December 11th, 1808, and fell in with Steep Point on the 31st; they steered a direct course from Ceylon, and were considerably delayed by light winds. On the South coast of Java, they had fine weather and light breezes, which enabled them to make the following observations in coasting along.

From Steep Point, in lon. 107° 23′ E. by chronometer, a course E. by S. will carry a ship in sight of a remarkable bold headland, in lon. 111° 6′E., which appears to be the easternmost point of a very deep bay, called in some charts, Inland Bay. About 80 miles E. by S. from this headland, is situated the point and islets of Tangala, and two remarkable hills near the shore to the westward.

From the isles of Tangala, the course is E. by S. ½ S. 70 miles to Noesa Baron, which the Minerva passed near, made the East point of Java, January 5th, 1809, and anchored on the 9th, at Bally Town, in the Strait of Allass.

In November and December strong westerly curents South of Ceylon.

The Anna, bound to China by Sunda Strait, was embarrassed a considerable time in November and December, to the southward of Ceylon, by light winds and strong westerly currents; and she did not reach Sunda Strait, till the 3d of January, 1793.

The Britannia left Ceylon for Amboina, December 6th, 1800, and with North, N.W., and West winds, she only reached lat. 3° 0′ N., lon. 81° 0′ E., on the 11th, having experienced a daily current of 60 miles, and sometimes more, setting to the W. N.W. and Westward.* The current then abated, and changed to the eastward on the 12th; she crossed the equator on the 16th, and with a continuance of W. N. W. and W. S.W. winds and changeable currents, mostly setting to the eastward, she saw the South coast of Java on the 26th; had then strong westerly winds, squally weather, and rain, with a current of 30 miles on some days to the eastward, with which she anchored in Sapy Bay, January 1st, 1801.

Abstracts of passages from Ceylon to the Island Java.

The Canton, and fleet for China, in company, left Ceylon, December 30th, 1796, made the S. E. part of Java, January 27th, 1797, and anchored in Allas Strait on the 29th.

In the latter part of November, and the first part of December, 1794, the Woodford, and fleet, for China, had brisk westerly winds steering direct from Ceylon to Sunda Strait.

In the Atlas, we left Point de Galle for Batavia, January 8th, 1786, and for two days kept nearly close hauled to the N. E. monsoon, blowing then fresh at N. E. by E., which decreased on the day following, and was succeeded by variable breezes. On the 12th, in lat. 2° 40′ N., lon. 83½° E., a strong N. N.W. monsoon commenced, with which we crossed the equator on the 15th, in lon. 91° E.; the wind veered afterward to West, and continued mostly between N.W. and S. W., with cloudy weather and much rain, until in lat. 5½° S., lon. 100° E., we had faint breezes three days: strong N.W. winds returned, with which we passed Engano on the 25th, and entered Sunda Strait on the following day.

In February, light winds are often experienced in the track between Ceylon and the N.W. end of Sumatra; if, therefore, a ship, after leaving that island, meet with light winds in North latitude, she should approach the equator without loss of time, where N. Westerly and variable winds may generally be expected in February, and part of March.

* Although the Anna, Britannia, and some other ships, have experienced strong westerly currents to the southward of Ceylon in November and December, which prolonged their passage, and the former had very light winds; this does not always happen, for the Behar left Cape Comorin on the 16th of December, steered from thence S. S. E., crossed the equator on the 20th; here, she got strong N.W. winds, and made a quick passage to Sunda Strait. The Sulivan, several years after, followed the same track as the Bahar did, and was equally fortunate.

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Instructions for approaching Java Head,

INSTRUCTIONS for approaching JAVA HEAD, throughout the year, are given in Vol. 1st of this work, under the title "Directions to sail from St. Paul, to the Strait of Sunda." Nevertheless, it may sometimes be expedient, to deviate in some degree from general rules, as the winds and currents are liable to differ in some months of one year, from their direction in the corresponding months of another year, as may be seen by the following examples.

In May and June, it is always thought safe to fall in with the land to the eastward of Java Head, if bound into Sunda Strait, as the S. E. monsoon generally prevails in these months along the South coast of Java. The Cadogan, however, fell in with Java Head, May 24th, 1729, and experienced variable winds from the westward, with S. Easterly currents, which kept her working in sight of the head till the 10th of June, and prevented her from reaching Bencoolen until the 20th of this month.

The Montagu, bound to Amoy in China, fell in with the South coast of Java well to the eastward of Java Head, October 8th, 1703, where she had variable baffling winds, and a constant current of 2 to 2½ miles per hour setting to the eastward. She got soundings generally within 3 or 4 leagues of the coast, excepting in the great bay to the East of Java Head, no ground was obtained with 100 fathoms line within a mile of the shore. Although she frequently anchored, to prevent losing ground by the current, and ultimately got S. E. and Easterly winds, yet she did not get round Java Head, into the strait until the 22d of that month. It is therefore advisable, to steer nearly direct for Java Head, in most seasons, if bound to the Strait of Sunda, and the ship's longitude be correctly known, borrowing a little to the eastward or westward when it is approached, as may be required by the prevailing wind, or other circumstances at the time. If bound to Bencoolen, a direct course to make Engano will probably be found the most speedy in May, June, and part of July, and from thence direct for Bencoolen, as the winds admit, because in these months the winds are often at N. Westward, with southerly and easterly currents.

and to soil toward Hindoostan.

SHIPS bound from JAVA HEAD for Bombay, ought to run down their westing in the S. E. trade, and adopt the southern route; between the Chagos and Seychelle Islands, from March to September. If they approach near the equator early in April, or in October, when N.W. and Northerly winds prevail in North latitude at the changing of the monsoons, they may, if the wind incline from the West and N.W., steer to the northward on the East side of the Maldiva Islands, and endeavour not to fall in with the Malabar Coast until past Calicut or Mount Dilly. But if they are several degrees to the westward of the Maldiva Islands when the equator is approached, the best passage to Bombay may be expected in April, part of September, and October, by keeping to the westward of the islands, and avoiding the coast.

From October till March, it will be advisable to cross the equator nearly on the meridian of the South end of Ceylon, as westerly winds are liable to prevail near the equator, and from thence a few degrees to the northward, which will be favorable for steering to fall in with the land about Dondre Head or Point de Galle; afterward they may cross the Gulf of Manar, and follow the directions for sailing along the Malabar Coast, given in the first volume of this work, under the head "Monsoons, Land and Sea Breezes, and Currents, on the Western side of Hindoostan."

Ships bound from Java Head to Madras in the S.W. monsoon, ought to make the Friar's Hood on the East part of Ceylon, or at all events not fall to the northward of their port. If bound to Madras or Bengal in the N. E. monsoon, they ought to burrow within 3° or 4° of Hog Island or Achen Head, in passing into the Bay of Bengal, and follow the directions given for ships proceeding from Europe by the "Outer Passage, to places on either side the Bay of Bengal."

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of Sunda strait.

SUNDA STRAIT, has two channels which lead into it from the westward, the small channel between the West end of Java and Prince's Island, and the great channel to the northward of this island, betwixt it and the South coast of Sumatra, now to be described; this coast is indented by two large bays, and several islands and rocks front it, of various sizes.

Keyser's Bay and contiguous land.

SEMANKO, or KEYSER'S BAY, formed to the North and N. E. of Tanjong Chinna, projects into the land about 5 leagues in a N. Westerly direction, and is about 3 leagues wide, having various depths from 50 to 100 fathoms at the entrance, to 10 and 15 fathoms inside, along the western shore, and at the upper part, where the anchorage is good over a muddy bottom: the village of Borne stands close to the N.W. end of the bay, where there are some shoal rivulets; the shores are generally low, and the land marshy near the sea, but in some places there are pepper plantations. The ship Speke, in 1793, anchored in 15 fathoms about 1½ mile E. N. E. from the mouth of Borne rivulet, which the long-boat could not enter; here, refreshments of all kinds were procured from the Dutch Resident. A little inland from the N.W. angle of the bay, stands a high conical mountain, called Samanca or Semanko Peak, also Keyser's Peak; and to the eastward, between it and Lampoon Bay, there are other mountains, the highest of them called Lampoon Peak: these mountains are discernible a great way at sea, in clear weather, by ships running for Sunda Strait.

Keyser's Island.

Tubooan, or Keyser's Island, situated in the middle of the entrance of the bay, is high, bold, and safe to approach, the channel on either side of it being spacious and clear of danger; but the water is deep, and the bottom rocky in some places. On the N. E. side of the island there is anchorage in 15 or 16 fathoms, sandy bottom, about a mile from the shore; and near the East point, there is a salt water creek, having 6 feet water at the entrance, with fresh water at its head, where a supply may be procured. There are some pepper plantations on the island, and tall trees at the East end, fit for masts.

Caloombyan Harbour

CALOOMBYAN HARBOUR, situated on the Eastern side of Keyser's Bay, at the entrance of Sunda Strait, has recently been surveyed by Lieuts. Hull and Johnston, of the Royal Navy, and found to be small but very safe, sheltered from all winds, with sufficient depths of water for large ships, and well adapted for a fleet in want of refreshments, as every supply may be obtained, and the delay in the S. E. Monsoon would not be so great here as by touching at Batavia.

This harbour lies nearly East from the North end of Keyser's Island (or Pulo Tubooan), and may easily be discerned by Pulo Eeyoo and Pulo Clappa, two small islands, lying about a mile outside of the entrance, and having a safe channel, with 25 fathoms water between them.

The inner harbour is convenient for the native trade, as small vessels can load and unload along side of the beach, and the village is ¾ mile from the landing place, situated in a valley, apparently a healthy spot.

By a few guns properly placed upon Pulo Clappa, Pulo Eeyoo, and the South point of the harbour, this place might be rendered secure against the strongest force.

Directions.

To sail into the harbour in the N.W. monsoon, enter by the Western passage formed between Pulo Clappa and the North point, called Tanjong Napal, where the depths are front 30 to 22 fathoms.

In the S. E. monsoon, enter between Pulo Clappa and Pulo Eeyoo, if you have a steady breeze.

The Eastern passage between Pulo Ecyoo and the main is only safe for small vessels: both the islands are bold, having 22 fathoms water close to them. When abreast of Pulo Clappa, the South point of Keyser's Island should be kept well open to the southward of Pulo Clappa, and with this mark steer in till Oogooron Point bears North, which forms the North side of

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the entrance of the inner harbour, then anchor in 9 or 10 fathoms black mud; but in all parts of the harbour a ship may safely anchor, there being no danger that is not visible above water.

There is a small cove farther to the eastward, near Tanjong Tekoos.

Lampoon Bay and th islands adjoiuing.

LAMPOON BAY, formed between Tanjong Tekoos to the West, and Rajah Bassa to the eastward, is very extensive, being 6 or 7 leagues wide at the entrance, stretching northward into the land nearly the same distance. From Tanjong Tekoos, which is the West point of the bay, a chain of islands extends a considerable way to the eastward, having channels betwixt some of them, and between them and the point, with soundings from 40 to 20 fathoms. Other islands line the western shores of the bay inside, between which and the main, there are several good roads or places of shelter, formed by the adjoining islands and shoals, with some villages opposite to them on the main.

Pulo Lagooudy

PULO LAGOONDY, or GOONDY, the outermost and largest island, is separated from Tanjong Tekoos by Goondy Strait, or Owen's Channel, about ½ or ¾ of a mile wide, with 30 or 40 fathoms in it, and no soundings outside in the entrance, which seems to render it rather intricate for large ships, as it is formed by high land, liable to produce eddy winds, accompanied at times by strong currents. But with a leading land-breeze in the morning, a ship might run out through it with safety.

The fleet from China, having watered at Rajah Bassa, worked across Lampoon Bay, to keep in smooth water on the weather shore, intending to pass out at the West side of the bay between Tanjong Tekoos and Pulo Goondy, but the Arniston having struck on a rock about ½ a mile to the N. E. of the small island Oomowoomang, which lies near the North end of Pulo Goondy, induced the fleet to pass out to the eastward of it and the adjoining islands, in a good channel formed by these on the West side, and the small isle Pulo Saradong to the eastward, called also Tims Islet, which on the East side is covered with brush-wood. When in this channel, Crockatoa Peak bore South.

The Waterloo, Capt. Alsager, in April, 1822, homeward-bound from China, came from Rajah Bassa, inside the islands off Lampoon Bay, and then between Pulo Goondy and the main, through Owen's Channel, which was considered safe. When in mid-channel and in the narrowest part, a cannon-ball fired off from each side of the ship, reached the shore on both sides of the passage; and at 8 A. M., in the centre of the channel, soundings of 40 fathoms were got, with Pulo Sarasat East, and Tanjong Tekoos bearing West. The Waterloo passed through this channel in the morning, having anchored during the preceding night in Pedada Bay, which affords good shelter.

Nangga Harbour.

On the North side of Pulo Goondy, a small bay is formed called Nangga Harbour, with the small island Pulo Patappan in the middle of the entrance, on the East side of which is the best passage into the harbour, by borrowing near the shore of Pulo Goondy; here, the depths are from 15 to 10 fathoms, and from 12 to 7 fathoms inside the harbour, where a ship might moor secured from all winds, and careen if necessary.

Capt. Owen, careened His Majesty's sloop Baracouta here, in February, 1811, and moored with the West extreme of the harbour bearing N.W: 1 mile, East extreme N. E. ½ N. 1 mile, West extreme of Pulo Patappan N. by W. 2 cables' lengths, East extreme of the same N. N. E. 2 cables' lengths, distant from the bottom of the harbour 1 mile, and from the reef 1 cable's length. Observed lat. 5° 46′ S., lon. 105° 4′ E.

Geo. Site.

Rajah Bassa Road.

RAJAH BASSA ROAD, situated directly under the high land, called Refreshment Head, that forms the East side of Lampoon Bay, has frequently been visited by the homeward-bound China ships, it being an excellent place for procuring good water with facility, and turtle at 1 dollar each; a few fowls, buffalos, oranges, and plantains, may be got for coarse cutlery, as the natives seemed to care little for dollars, when the fleet touched here in

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February, 1815, under convoy of H. M. S. Grampus. The Winchelsea* anchored in 12 fathoms blue mud, with Rajah Bassa Peak N. E. by E. ½ E., extremes from N. ¼ E. to S. E. ½ E., off shore 1½ mile, which is a good birth for watering, there being two runs of fine water issuing from the high land nearly abreast, and another to the eastward of Cocoa-nut Point, either of which would supply a fleet of ships.

The fleet from China, under convoy of H. M. S. Cornelia, Capt. William Owen, anchored here January 21st, 1813; the Neptune in 16 fathoms blue mud, had the westernmost of the Three Brothers bearing S. 56° W., Crockatoa Peak in one with the high land of Pulo Sebese S. 20° W., off the nearest of the Three Brothers 3½ miles, and from the Rajah Bassa shore 3 miles. Large ships ought not to anchor under 11 or 10 futhoms, for although the soundings decrease regularly over a soft bottom to 7 or 8 fathoms in general, yet, the shore is fronted by a rocky bank, which projects out to 5 or 6 fathoms in some places, and is very steep to.

Geo. Site.

Rajah Bassa Peak, called also Ejow Peak, is about 1600 feet high, the anchorage of the road opposite, Capt. Owen made by observation in lat. 5° 50′ S., and it is about 7 miles East of Crockatoa Peak, or in lon. 105° 32′E. The water deepens to 25 and 27 fathoms toward the Three Brothers, which isles lie about 4 miles W. by N. from Cocoa-nut Point; and there are 18 fathoms in the gut between the Middle and South Brothers: these three islands appear as one in coming from eastward, and do not begin to open until Rajah Bassa Road is approached. The depths from Rajah Bassa Road across Lampoon Bay to Pulo Goody, are from 13 to 19 fathoms, regular soundings and good anchorage.

The South extreme of Rajah Bassa Road, called Cocoa-nut Point, is low, with cocoa-nut trees overhanging it, from whence the coast trends easterly, forming a concavity between it and Hog Point; the land is rather low near the latter, but rises gradually to an elevated peak, about a league eastward of Cocoa-nut Point.

Geo. Site of Hog Point.

TANJONG TOCA, or HOG POINT, situated about 4 leagues to the S. Eastward of the East point of Lampoon Bay, in lat. 5° 54′ S., lon. 105° 43½′ E., or 1° 8½′ West from Batavia, by chronometer, is the S. Easternmost extremity of Sumatra, and bounds the Strait of Sunda on the North side.

Adjacent Rocks.

There is a rock 6 or 7 feet above water, distant 2 miles N. W. from Hog Point, called Collier's Rock, being about 50 feet in circuit; and 50 feet distant from it, lies a coral rock under water. These are about a mile distant from the shore, with 50 or 55 fathoms water close to, on the outside. There is another rock above water, bearing South from Hog Point, distant ⅔ of a mile, with 65 or 70 fathoms outside of it, and deep water between it and the point, which seems steep to, as no bottom could be got with the hand-lead in sounding close to it with a boat.

Zutphen Islands, and the neighbouring coast.

Anchorage.

ZUTPHEN ISLANDS, called also HOUNDS, or HOG ISLANDS, front the coast of Sumatra to the N. Eastward of Hog Point; there are several shoals and islets between them and the main, among which there is said to be anchorage in some places. The largest of these islands, and part of the coast adjacent, is high land, mostly covered with wood; to the southward they are very steep, having from 40 to 50 fathoms water very near them, where they ought not to be approached close; but toward the northernmost, there are from 23 to 30 fathoms, and here, ships might occasionally anchor, particularly off the North end of this island, which lies in lat. 5° 50′ S. The Pigot anchored here, in January, 1770, in 20 fathoms mud and sand, Bantam Point bearing E. by S. ½ S., Fourth Point of Java S. ¼ E., West extreme of Thwart-the-way S. by E. ¼ E., North Island N. by E. ¼ E., Hog Island S. W., distant from a small island (that lies near the North extreme of the Zutphen) about 1 mile. The

* Capt. William Moffat, of the Winchelsea, at this time, made an excellent survey of Rajah Bassa Road, with the soundings from thence to Hog Point.

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boat had regular soundings from the ship to the entrance of a river on the coast of Sumatra, which bore from her N. N.W.; she was launched over the bar, and they went about 1½ mile up the river, where Tangrea village stands, with rice fields about it, cattle, poultry, and plenty of cocoa-nuts. Here, it is thought, some bullocks and poultry may be procured for dollars, but Europeans landing on any part of the coast of Sumatra hereabout, must be always on their guard, for the natives are seldom to be trusted.

The Lascelles, in December, 1792, anchored in 15 fathoms, North Island bearing N. by E. ½ E., the outermost point of Hog Islands S. ¾ W., and the watering place S. W. by W. ¼ W., off shore 2 miles. The water they got here, although not brackish, was very soft, and fit only for culinary purposes. Capt. Jameson, of the Balcarras, says, the best anchorage in Hound's Bay, is to bring the Zutphen Islands in one, in 11 fathoms.

Reef off Hout's Island and dangerous current.

From the South Zutphen Island, called Houts, or Woody Island, there is a reef of rocks, distant about 2 cable's lengths, with 10 and 12 fathoms in the narrow gut between it and the island. February 12th, 1815, the China fleet in passing these islands, found a current sweeping round them to the westward, at the rate of 4½ miles per hour, with strong ripplings rushing in among the islands, which horsed some of the ships close to danger: the Bombay, after dropping two anchors, was driven upon the reef off the South Zutphen Island, where she lay till the 12th, and after throwing part of her cargo overboard, all her guns, &c., with great exertions of the fleet, she was hove off the reef into the deep gut between it and the island, with great damage, which made it necessary to proceed to Bombay, where she underwent a complete repair. When aground on the reef, Stroom Rock bore S. 36½° E., Thwart-the-Way from S. 31° E., to S. 53½° E., Button E. 8° S. St. Nicholas Point East, North Island N. 10° E., islet off the northernmost Zutphen N. 6° E., and the S. E. point of Houts or Woody Island S. 31° W., being then on the inside of the reef of rocks, and 150 fathoms distant from the shore of Houts Island.

The Castle Huntly, brought up with two anchors in 14 fathoms rocks, about a cable's length N. 47° E. from the Bombay aground, with a reef off the N. E. end of Houts Island in one with the extreme of Long Island or North Zutphen bearing N. 37° W.; from this dangerous situation, she got clear, by slipping one cable, and with springs on the other, cut it, and sheered out clear of the reef.

On account of the rapid currents, which are experienced near these islands at times, in the Westerly monsoon, ships ought not to approach them at the South and S. E. parts, nearer than 1½ or 1¼ mile, particularly in passing Houts Island.

Great channel at the entrance of Sunda Strait.

GREAT CHANNEL, to the northward of Prince's Island, at the West entrance of the Strait of Sunda, is separated into several passages, by three large islands situated betwixt Prince's Island and the land on the East side of Lampoon Bay. The southernmost of these channels is about 6 or 6½ leagues broad, formed between the North end of Prince's Island and Crockatoa; although destitute of soundings or anchorage, it is much frequented, being the widest passage into the strait, and is considered clear of danger.

A sunken rock was placed in some old charts, about 5 or 6 miles to the S. S.W. of Crockatoa, said to have been seen by Lieut. M'Cluer; and Capt. Drury, of the Navy, is said to have examined it a few years ago, and found it to be a rock near the water's edge. There is, however, great cause to think there is no rock existing in this place, and that the channel is clear from the South end of Crockatoa to the North end of Princes Island.

Crockatoa.

CROCKATOA, or KRAKATOA, extending nearly N.W. and S. E., about 6 or 7 miles, and 4 or 5 miles in breadth, is a high island, steep to, on the South side, but a reef of rocks projects a little way from the S. E. point.* Near the S. E. end of the island, is

* As the Peak of Crockatoa may be considered the Fairway Mark in entering the Strait of Sunda from the Westward, its latitude ought to be correctly known, and although the latitude stated above, is thought to be very near the truth, it being the result of correct observations taken by Capt. Lestock Wilson, corresponding with those of several navigators; yet, other officers, esteemed careful observers, differ more in the latitude of this peak, than could have been expected, in a period of improved nautical astronomy. Capt. T. Lynn, made the Peak by observation in lat. 6° 12′ S. † Captains Milliken Craig and Bampton, made it in 6° 10′ S., and some Dutch charts place it in the same latitude. I made it in lat. 6° 9′ S., by indifferent observation. Capt. L. Wilson made it in lat. 6° 8′ 3″S., Capt. Balston in 6° 9′ S., Capt. Denniston in 6° 7′ S., and Capt. W. Owen, of the Royal Navy, made it only in lat. 6° 3′ S., or 9 miles less than Capt. Lynn's observation, although these two officers are known to be careful observers, and good astronomers!

VOL. II. O

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Geo. Site of the peak.

situated a conical peak in lat. 6° 8½′ S., lon. 105° 25½′ E., or 1° 26½°′ West from Batavia by chronometers, bearing about N. E. by N. from the N. E. end of Princes Island, distant 7 or 7½ leagues. Several small islands lie contiguous to the West and northern sides of the principal island, of which Verlatens or Forsaken Island at the N.W. end, and Long Island at the N. E. end, are the largest.

Anchorage.

A bank of soft mud extends out from the East side of Crockatoa and Long Island about 3 miles, when the peak bears W. S.W. to S.W. by W., affording excellent shelter from westerly gales, by anchoring in from 20 to 23 fathoms about 1½ to 2½ miles off shore. The peak bearing S.W. by W. is the best birth, but do not anchor with the North end of the island to the southward of West, or you will be exposed to a heavy sea rolling in from the westward between Crockatoa and Pulo Bessy, during a westerly gale. The Princess Amelia, with the fleet from China, took shelter here December 28th, 1815, where they remained till the 4th of January, 1816, during a continued gale from the westward, in very smooth water; while a Swedish ship was driven into Welcome Bay, and rode with two anchors down against a very heavy sea. On the N. E. end of Long Island, a swamp was found, with apparently a little rain water, as no spring was discovered: a very small spring of fresh water was found on Crockatoa, opposite to the South end of Long Island, but it could only be approached by boats at high water; directly abreast of Long Island, on the N. E. side of Crockatoa, a hot spring was observed, in which the thermometer rose to 154°. No inhabitants were seen on these islands, nor any trace of a village, and Capt. Balston, of the Princess Amelia, thinks, no ship ought to depend on watering at Crockatoa. A wild hog was shot on Long Island, and there are also some small deer on it.

The S. E. end of Crockatoa and East end of Long Island bear N. ¼ E. and S. ¼ W. of each other, forming a bay with a coral reef projecting ¾ of a mile, and a rock 2 feet under water, lies nearly a mile off the South end of Long Island. A reef extends half way across from the South end of Long Island toward Crockatoa, and although regular soundings of 28 to 32 fathoms were found in the channel between these islands, it is too narrow to be navigated by a large ship, and rendered more dangerous by eddy winds: the North end of this strait is fronted by a small island, and a reef of rocks nearly even with the water's edge, extends from the N.W. end of Long Island, above ½ a mile in a westerly direction toward the North end of Crockatoa.

Pulo Bessy.

PULO BESSY, or TAMARIND ISLAND, bearing about N. by E. from Crockatoa Peak, distant 3½ or 4 leagues, and nearly of the same size, has also a high peak resembling a sugar loaf, it being more acute than the former, situated in lat. 5° 57′ S., and 3 miles East of Crockatoa Peak: some islets and rocks adjoin to the North end of the principal island, but it is bold to approach in most places, having 11 and 12 fathoms regular soundings near to the North and East sides, and 16 or 17 fathoms near the western part. In February, 1821, when blowing strong from S.W. by W., the General Kyd ran under Pulo Bessy, and anchored in 13 fathoms mud and sand, off shore about 2 miles, with the Peak bearing W. by S., and had smooth water.

Channel between it and Crockatoa.

The channel betwixt the South end of this island and those adjoining to the North end of Crockatoa, having regular soundings in it from 18 to 28 fathoms mud, and being about 2

† Capt. Lynn, afterward, in 1817, made it in lat. 6° 8′ S. Capt. Hamilton, in 1820, made it in lat. 6° 9′ 42″ S.

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leagues wide, where ships can occasionally anchor to stop tide, or otherwise, it is often preferred to the channel betwixt the latter and Prince's Island, particularly by ships working out against the westerly monsoon. HINDOSTAN ROCK, is the only known danger, on which the ship of this name struck in 1791; and it is of a spiral form, being only 6 or 8 feet in diameter, with 15 feet water on its summit, and 10 fathoms close to. About half way between it and the bushy S. E. point of Pulo Bessy, the depths are 8 and 10 fathoms, and it is distant from the South end of this island about 1½ mile. When upon the Hindostan Rock, Crockatoa Peak bore S. 15° W., the West extreme of Verlaten's Island S. 45° W., the East extreme of Long Island S. 2° W., Pulo Bessy from N. 44° E., to N. 2° W., the peak of Keyser's Island W. 12° N., and Zee Klip, or Gap Rock W. 5° N., well open to the southward of Keyser's Island.

Hindostan Rock.

Zee Klip

ZEE KLIP,* is a small group, containing two or three steep pyramidal rocks, situated about 5 miles westward from the South end of Pulo Bessy, the largest of which having a cleft in it, is called sometimes Gap Rock.

Directions to avoid the Hindostan Rock.

To avoid the Hindostan Rock, a ship ought to keep at least 2 miles from the South end of Pulo Bessy, but the best mark in proceeding through this channel, is never to bring the Gap Rock open to the southward of Keyser's Island. When the Gap Rock is in one with the South point of this island, it bears W. 12° N.; W. 15° N. when on with the centre; and W. 17° N. when in one with the North point.

The islands on the South side may be approached within 1½ or 2 miles, there being 23 fathoms mud about ¼ mile from the North point of Long Island, and 15 fathoms sand within a ship's length of the beach; but a reef of rocks, above water, projects from the N.W. part of the island, ½ mile or more to the W. N. Westward.

Pulo Sebooko.

PULO SEBOOKO, or SAMBOORICO, in lat. 5° 53½′ S., lies to the N. N. E. Pulo Bessy, leaving a safe channel nearly a league wide between them, and it is situated nearly mid-way between the latter and the S. E. point of Rajah Bassa Road: it is high, covered with wood, and some islets and rocks lie contiguous to the North and East sides, with good anchorage off the East part of the island, in 10 or 12 fathoms near the small islets. A reef projects a little way from the South end of the island, and also from the S.W. part, but on the North side there are 30 fathoms water between it and the Three Brothers, which passage seems to be safe, although not frequented.

Geo. Site of Thwart-the-Way;

THWART-THE-WAY, or Middle Island, called Pulo Renyang by the Malays, situated in the middle of the narrowest part of Sunda Strait, but rather nearer to Hog Point than to the Java shore, is of considerable size, being 4 miles long and moderately elevated; it lies about 7 leagues to the eastward of the islands last mentioned, the N. E. end being in lat. 5° 55½′ S., and 1° 1′ W. from Batavia by chronometers, or in lon. 105° 51′ E. A reef projects a little way from the South side of it, and the bottom is generally rocky near this island, with inconvenient depths for anchoring; there being from 40 to 60 fathoms about a league to the northward of it, but less water near its South and South West sides.

channel between and Sumatra.

The channel between Thwart-the-way and Sumatra, is much frequented in the westerly monsoon, by ships from Banca Strait bound to the westward, being shorter, although more contracted than the other channel betwixt Thwart-the-way and Java. The northern channel may be adopted with a steady wind, for in such case, with the westerly current, a ship will get speedily through; but in light baffling winds, she is liable to be drifted about by strong tides or currents near the Stroom Rock, where there is no anchorage except in deep water from 40 to 60 fathoms.

* i. e. Sea Rock.

O 2

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Stroom Rock.

Directions.

STROOM ROCK, situated about 1½ or 2 miles to the N.W. of Thwart-the-way, is a group of three or four rocks, visible above the sea at high water, and then discernible only at a short distance; at other times, it appears about the height of a long boat. Although the passage betwixt this rock and Thwart-the-way is safe, the channel to the northward is preferable, by keeping within 1½ mile of the Zutphen Islands when the wind inclines from the Sumatra side, and giving a birth to the Rock off Hog Point. The Stroom Rock, Button, and Bantam Point, are nearly in one, bearing E. 10° N.: when in one with the northern extreme of Thwart-the-way, it bears E. by S. ½ S., and when on with the S. Western extreme of that island, it bears S. E. by S.

SOUTH SIDE of SUNDA STRAIT, with SAILING DIRECTIONS to BATAVIA.

Geo. Site of Prince's Island.

Anchorage,

PRINCE'S ISLAND, or PULO PONTANGH, separated from the West part of Java by a channel about 4 miles broad, is the largest island at the entrance of Sunda Strait, being of triangular form, 4 or 5 leagues in extent: the North end is in lat. 6° 27′ S., the peaked hill at the S. E. side, in lat. 6° 35′ S., lon. 105° 15′ E., or 1° 37′* West from Batavia, by my chronometers, and it is about 4 miles to the eastward of Java Head. The middle of the island is hilly, but in some parts, particularly at the West end, the land is level and low fronting the sea, and all the island abounds with wood. A reef projects from the West point, betwixt which and the South point of the island, an extensive bay called Casuaris Bay, stretches a great way inland, having soundings of various depths, and anchorage at its upper end; but being open to seaward, it is not frequented, consequently little known. The North side of the island has soundings from 20 to 12 or 10 fathoms near the shore, but the anchorage is destitute of shelter, and too near the land for ships to lie in safety. With the peaked hill on the S. E. part bearing from S.W. to N. N.W., there is anchoring ground in 36 to 44 fathoms about a mile off the eastern shore; and with the same hill bearing from N. ½ W. to W. by N., there are from 10 to 30 fathoms coarse sand, shells, and coral, little more than a cable's length off shore. The common anchorage is on the East side of the island, with the hill bearing about S.W. by W., and the northern extreme N. ½ E., in 38 fathoms fine sand, about ¾ mile off shore; but as this road is inconvenient for watering, the Peaked Hill may be brought to bear about N.W. by N., where a ship, in want of water, should anchor in 35 fathoms soft ground, about ½ a mile from the shore. Here, is a small sandy bay, and at its eastern part; a run of fresh water, where the casks must be filled about 100 yards up, (the higher the better) otherwise the water will be brackish. It is only during the westerly monsoon that ships can conveniently procure water here, for the springs are nearly dry in the S. E. monsoon, when there is little rain; the strong winds also, which blow in this season over the West part of Java, render the anchorage at the East end of Prince's Island unpleasant, it being then a lee shore.

and adjoining dangers.

From the N. E. end of the island, a reef extends along the shore on each side; some rocks and breakers also lie at the S. E. side of it, in a bay to the S. Westward of the peaked hill; but the rocks called the CARPENTERS, are most in the way of ships that pass betwixt Java and Prince's Island. These are a group of large rocks projecting from the South point of the island nearly a mile, having no anchorage near them, there being 50 fathoms close to, and about two ships lengths from them no ground.

* Captain L. Wilson made the Peak 1° 38¾′ West from Batavia by chronometers, or 1¾ mile more than stated above.

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Prince's Strait

PRINCE'S STRAIT, the BEHOUDEN, or Safe Passage of the Dutch, formed between Prince's Island and Java, is the small or southern channel leading into Sunda Strait; it was formerly much frequented, and recommended as the best passage, both to enter and depart from that strait; and although still chosen by many ships, the preference is now generally given to the great channel betwixt Prince's Island and Crockatoa, or to that between the latter and Tamarind Island, with a steady fair wind, unless a ship intend to water at Mew Bay, which is more convenient than Prince's Island for that purpose.

First Point

FIRST POINT of Java, or TANJONG ALONG-AJANG, is the South point of the entrance of Prince's Strait, easily known by a remarkable rock off it, called the FRIAR, that lies nearly S. E. by S. about 5 miles from the Carpenters, which bound the other side of the strait. The West end of Java extends nearly 5 leagues about N. by W. and S. by E., steep high land, projecting a little to the northward of the middle part, which is generally considered as Java Head, already mentioned in the First Volume of this work. The First Point is in lat. 6° 44′ S., distant nearly 2 leagues to the northward of the Head, and the coast between them which forms a bight, is fronted by high rocks in some places, stretching out about a mile. On these rocks, also on the Friar, and Carpenters, the sea breaks high during westerly winds, or in bad weather.

Directions.

Ships proceeding through Prince's Strait, in the N. W. monsoon, should keep near to Prince's Island and the Carpenters, particularly in working out against westerly winds; a current will then, sometimes, be found setting out in their favor. During the other monsoon, when S. E. and southerly winds prevail, they ought to keep nearest to the Java shore, and the Friar, which rock may be approached within 1 or 2 cables' lengths, with a steady southerly wind.

A ship may sometimes get quickly out to the westward through Prince's Strait, in the N.W. monsoon, during squally weather, when it would be difficult to beat out to the northward of Prince's Island. Captain John Cowman, in the Magdalen, beat out through this strait against a westerly gale, by carrying a press of sail, and tacking between the squalls, at a time when the heavy sea made it impossible to tack the ship in the Great Channel between Crockatoa and Prince's Island; notwithstanding, he was only 36 hours from North Island until clear out of the strait, while other ships from China, anchored for shelter under Crockatoa. The Elphinstone, of 1200 tons burthen, Capt. Milliken Craig, bound to China, entered Prince's Strait in the afternoon of the 3d of August, and passed through it in the night without anchoring.

Mew Island.

Watering Place.

MEW ISLAND, in lat. 6° 43′ S., called also CANTAE, situated in Mew Bay, about a league eastward of the First Point of Java, is small and hilly, abounding with wood; betwixt it and the First Point, there is an islet near the Java shore, and regular soundings over a sandy bottom are found to stretch along this side of Prince's Strait. There is a safe, but narrow channel betwixt Mew Island and Java, with various soundings from 5 to 8 and 10 fathoms, over a sandy bottom, nearest to the island, where a ship may lie land locked, and be sheltered from all winds. South, from the body of the island, but nearest to the Java shore, there is a rocky shoal, which is avoided by keeping nearest to the island; and in every other part, a little nearer the island than mid-channel, is the best track for vessels passing through, or taking shelter here. The shore is rocky on the outside of Mew Island, but safe to approach, the soundings decreasing gradually to 8 or 9 fathoms. On the Java shore to the eastward of the island, there is an excellent watering place, during the southerly monsoon, being then preferable to that at Prince's Island, where the water is sometimes scarce, and the wind blowing upon the shore: whereas, the water pours from the rocks here in great abundance, of superior quality to that of Anger, North Island, or the Nanka Islands.

Anchorage.

A ship proceeding to the watering place at Mew Island, must give a birth to a reef of

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rocks, which bears about N. by W. nearly ½ mile from the watering place. She may run betwixt it and the island, borrowing toward the latter, and anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms inside, in the channel formed between the island and Java; or she may anchor farther out in 14 fathoms water, over a bottom of fine sand, with the peak on Prince's Island N. 13° W., the extremity of Mew Island W. 8° S., distant from the Java shore about 1¼ mile, and from the watering place 1½ mile. The Royal George at anchor in 18 fathoms, had Prince's Peak bearing N. 15° W., North extreme of Prince's Island N.2° W., North extreme of Java N. 42° E., Southern extreme of the Carpenters N. 70° W., Mew Island from S. 15° W. to S. 88° W., distant ½ a mile, and the Watering Place S. 21° E., distant 1¼ mile. This ship and the Thames, watered here, March 26th, 1813. H. M. S. Grampus, with the fleet from China, also watered here, May 1st, 1811. When the William Pitt watered here in May, 1820, the wood had grown over the cascade, that it could not be perceived at high water, but was found by the noise of the water falling into the sea.

Mew Island is not inhabited, but ships touching there, sometimes procure a small supply of turtle, fowls, and cocoa-nuts, at an exorbitant price, from the people of Prince's Island, who bring them over in their proas. Plenty of wood may be got upon the island, or on the opposite shore of Java, near the watering place, but the shore party ought to be on their guard against any hidden assault from the natives. The water is clear and good, and falls in a cascade from the land, upon the beach; with the assistance of a hose, it may be filled into boats without landing the casks. Inland, a considerable way from the watering place, there are some huts or villages, but none contiguous to the sea on this part of the coast.

It is high water here, about 6 hours on full and change of the moon.

Second Point, and coast; with sailing directions,

SECOND POINT, or TANJONG GOOKOOLANG, in about lat. 6° 36′ S., and 3 leagues N. Eastward from Mew Island, may be approached to 15 or 16 fathoms, about 1½ or 2 miles distance; and a ship may keep in moderate depths for anchoring, in passing along the coast between them, there being no danger unless near the shore, On the East side of the point, lies Welcome Bay, extending a great way into the land, and containing several islets and shoals; the outermost of these shoals, extends E. N. E. and W. S. W. about two cables' lengths, and is half that breadth, having only 9 feet water on it in some places. From this shoal, the Second Point is said to bear W. N.W. about 5 miles, then on with the northernmost peak of Prince's Island, and the Third Point N. E. ½ E. About a cable's length outside of it, there are 19 fathoms water, so that care is required not to stand into the bay, in working, when near this shoal; and with a fair wind, a direct course should be steered from the one point to the other, without borrowing into the bay. The eastern side is more clear, with good shelter in the S. Easterly monsoon, but in the westerly monsoon this bay ought to be avoided.

to the Third Point.

Anchorage at Seriguy.

THIRD POINT, or TANJONG LUSSONG, in lat. 6° 27′ S., separates Welcome Bay from Pepper Bay, the latter being situated on the East side of this point, and it bears nearly N. E. by E. ½ E., 5 or 6 leagues from the Second Point. To the eastward of the point, there is an islet inside of Pepper Bay, with a shoal to the North westward, rendering the approach to it dangerous; which is the case throughout this bay, the water being generally shoal. A ship being abreast of the Third Point, about a league distant, the small island Seriguy or Pulo Papale, at the N. E. part of Pepper Bay, may be seen bearing about E. by N., but will then be confounded with the contiguous coast; if she is to touch there, it will be prudent to steer across the bay, keeping the island on the starboard bow, and not borrow toward the shoal water near the Java shore. She may anchor about 2 or 3 miles from Seriguy in 7 or 8 fathoms, with it bearing about S. S. E., where refreshments may be procured from the village on the main; but at high prices. A reef projects from the island about a mile to the northward, and it stretches from thence to the Java shore.

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Fourth Point; to sail clear of the dangers.

FOURTH POINT, or TANJONG CIECORANG, situated about 4½ or 5 leagues N. by E. from Seriguy, is low to seaward, and most part of the coast betwixt it and Welcome Bay is low, interspersed with hills in some places, and abounding with cocoa-nuts. In coasting along betwixt Seriguy and the Fourth Point, a ship should keep about 3 miles or more from the shore, in soundings from 20 to 30 fathoms, to be enabled to anchor, if calms and contrary currents render it necessary. About half way from Seriguy toward the point, it would be imprudent to borrow too near the shore, for reefs stretch out nearly a mile in some places: and from the Fourth Point, a reef projects about a mile, with 20 fathoms very near it. Near the same point, there is said to be a reef of rocks adjoining to the shore, and a sand bank stretching off from the reef about ½ a mile, on which the Catherine was lost.* From the outside of it in 12 fathoms water, the Button bears N. N. E. ½ E., Thwart-the-way N. ½ E., Crockatoa West, and the nearest part of the Java shore S. E. by E., about 2 or 2½ miles.

To soil from Second Point to the Fourth Point.

If a ship having entered by Prince's Strait, is abreast of the Second Point, she ought to steer a direct course for the Fourth Point, bearing nearly N. E. from the former, distant about 13 leagues; or having entered by the great channel, to the northward of Prince's Island, a course should be steered for the same point, if she intend to stop at Anger Road, or is bound to Batavia: for it will be prudent to keep near the Java coast during the southerly monsoon, and pass betwixt it and Thwart-the-way, whether bound to Batavia, or Banca Strait. From the Second Point to the Fourth Point, there is generally good ground for anchoring occasionally, in 18 to 25 or 30 fathoms.

Geo. Site of Anger,

Anchorage,

ANGER, or ANJERE VILLAGE, in lat. 6° 3½′ S., lon. 105° 55′ E., about 2 leagues eastward of the Fourth Point, is not easily perceived in coming from the westward; being situated in a bay, where the houses or huts are scattered amongst the cocoa-nut trees, it is nearly obscured by them, and by the chain of high hills inland. The easternmost of these is a sharp peaked hill, called Anger Peak, directly over the village, and is on with it bearing S. S. E.; from the S.W. point of Thwart-the-way, the village bears S. E., and from the eastern extreme of the same island, it bears S. 30° E. Ships frequently touch at this place in the southerly monsoon, to procure refreshments; but the road is not considered safe nor convenient, in the opposite season, for it is then dangerous landing on account of the high surf. The surf is sometimes high, even in the southerly monsoon, for, on May 20th, 1820, the Company's ship, William Pitt, anchored here, and could not procure any supplies, without waiting two days, until they could be brought from the country; and finding it impracticable to get fresh water from the shore, on account of the heavy swell rolling into the road, she proceeded to Mew Bay to fill up her water. The Company's ship Charles Grant, bound homeward from China, anchored at Anger, April 10th, 1826, and on the following morning, parted from all her anchors, in a hard gale from the westward, was driven on the rocky shore, and did not get off till the 16th, after having lightened the ship, and with the loss of her rudder, and otherwise sustaining great injury. This shews, that Anger Road is not safe in the month of April, and should be avoided by the homeward bound ships. Buffalos, some hogs, poultry, vegetables, and frequently turtles, may be procured here; water may be had by employing the shore boats. The common anchorage in Anger Road, is in from 9 to 14 fathoms, abreast of the village. The Raymond in 9 fathoms, had the Flagstaff bearing S. by E. about ¾ of a mile. The Ceres, June 28th, 1802, anchored in 13 fathoms about ¾ mile from the shore, with the Flagstaff bearing S. 37° E. Thwart-the-way from N. 28°

* By this ship's journal, it appears, that she struck on a sunken rock about 2 miles off the shore at the Fourth Point, between 11 and 12 A. M., September 20th, 1716, where she bilged, but floated off, and was run on shore to save the treasure, and part of the cargo. Capt. Hunter, of the Catherine, went with the treasure in the long boat to Batavia, and the governor gave every assistance, by sending sloops to take out the cargo, which was carried to Edam Island. The Javians afterward, burnt the hull of the ship to procure the iron.

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W. to N. 43° W., the Button N, 7° E., the Cap N. 20° E., and the N. E. extreme of Java N. 32° E.

Betwixt the Fourth Point and Anger Road, the soundings are irregular and the coast steep, the depths from 30 to 35 fathoms about 3 miles off, decreasing to 8 and 10 fathoms about ½ a mile from the shores of Anger Bay.

Cap.

CAP. or SMALL CAP, called Pulo Oolar, or Snake Island by the Malays, is a little round isle, bearing N. N. E. from Anger Village about 4 or 5 miles, and nearly E. S. E. from the South part of Thwart-the-way; between it and the latter island is the proper channel, having various depths in it from 20 to 50 fathoms, over an uneven, and generally rocky bottom. There is a passage betwixt the Cap and the Java shore, but ships proceed not through it, on account of Brouwer's Sand, bounding it to the eastward.

Button.

Tides.

BUTTON, or GREAT CAP, situated in lat. 5° 53′ S., and 2 leagues North from the Small Cap, of similar appearance, but larger and higher, is steep and covered with small trees. From Anger Road, nearly to St. Nicholas Point, there is anchorage in 20 to 16 fathoms by borrowing toward the Java shore; but outside, the depths are great, and the bottom unfavorable for that purpose, where ships are liable to be drifted about by the strong tides; if the wind fail them, for the tide runs through this narrow part of the strait, with great velocity during the springs. Betwixt Thwart-the-way, and the Java shore, and off the Button, the tides or currents, set generally strong through the strait to the S. Westward in the southeast monsoon; and in the opposite direction, during the westerly monsoon.

Brouwer's Sand.

BROUWER'S SAND, bounds the channel on the inside, and stretches a considerable way parallel to the coast of Java, having an islet and a small passage between it and the shore; it is a dangerous shoal, steep to seaward, there being deep water very near it on the outside. When the Harrison's boat was on it in 1½ and 2 fathoms water, the Cap bore S.W. ½ S., Thwart-the-way W. by N., the Button N.W. ½ N., the point of an island near the shore, (supposed Pulo Merak) which shut in Bantam Point, N. by E., and an isle close in shore, (or Little Pulo Merak) E. N. E. To avoid this shoal, a ship should keep nearly in mid-channel between the Button and the Java shore, taking care not to bring the Cap in a line with the point on the West side of Anger Bay, generally called Anger Point, or Fourth Point.

Pulo Merak.

PULO MERAK, KETCHEEL, (Little Pulo Merak) lies near the shore inside of the Brouwer's Sand, and Pulo Merak Besar, (Great Pulo Merak) to the northward of it: between this island and the main, Merak harbour is formed, having 6, 8, and 9 fathoms water in it, being about a ¼ mile in extent, which was surveyed by Capt. Rayley in H. M. Sloop Baracouta, in September, 1812, and seems to afford good shelter for small ships.

Geo. Site of Bantam Point.

BANTAM POINT, or ST. NICHOLAS POINT, in lat. 5° 52′ S., lon. 106° 2′ E., or 50 miles West from Batavia by chronometers, is a high bold headland, and bears from the Button E. 9° N., distant 7 miles. Close to the shore, on each side of it, there are some small islands, Pulo Tampasa to the S.W., and Pulo Saleyra in the bay on the East side: the soundings off this part of the coast are mostly regular, and ships may anchor in some places, in 20 fathoms clay or sand, about 2 or 3 miles from the point; but it appears that the depths do not decrease regularly close to this point, for the Scaleby Castle had 38 fathoms hard bottom, with it bearing South, distant 1 mile, where 18 fathoms is marked in some charts, and even 12 fathoms in the Dutch charts.

The coast between it and Anger, is high, with indifferent anchorage in the channel until Bantam Point is approached; but there are spots between it and the Button, where a ship

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may occasionally anchor to stop tide, particularly toward the Java shore, where the depths decrease in most places:*

Pangoriang

PANGORIANG, a small place about 4 miles to the East of St. Nicholas Point, has a small rivulet of good water and convenient anchorage, where ships may easily procure a supply of that article, and other refreshments may be got at times: this place was frequented by H. M. ships, when Java belonged to the British Government, and the anchorage is in from 10 to 16 fathoms. December 7th, 1812, Capt. Owen, in H. M. S. Cornelia, anchored in 13 fathoms mud, with Ejow, or Rajah Bassa Peak bearing W. 10° N., St. Nicholas Point W. 2° N., Pulo Saleyra or Roben Island W. 3° S., Goonong Laoo, or highest hill near the ship S. 18° W., Pulo Kaly S. 26° E. to S. 45° E., Great Pulo Mady S. 64° E., Pulo Pontangh S. 68° E., centre of Pulo Baby N. 72° E., and the watering place S. 33° W., off shore about 1¼ mile.

Pulo Kaly are two small islands, having a passage of 4 fathoms within them, affording good shelter for small vessels; they lie about half way between Pangoriang and the Red arid bluff extreme, that forms the West side of Bantam Bay; from whence, all the shore is rocky to the sandy bay of Saleyra, situated on the S. E. side of St. Nicholas Point. Pulo Saleyra, fronting this bay, is low and woody with a sandy beach, having 2 fathoms water inside of it, and 22 fathoms near it on the outside.

To Soil from Anger to the eastward.

A ship sailing from Anger Road, or being abreast of it, should steer to pass outside of the Cap, and inside of the Button, at any discretional distance from either, taking care not to borrow too close to the Brouwer's Sand in passing; when clear of that shoal, and the Button, she may steer N. N. Eastward for the Two Brothers, if bound to Banca Strait; or to pass Bantam Point within 2 or 3 miles, if bound to Batavia, or Bantam.

Tides.

THE TIDES, in the narrow part of Sunda Strait, seem to be greatly influenced by the winds; and frequently resemble currents more than regular tides. In Anger Road, the ebb tide sets often from 1 to 2 miles per hour to the westward during the S. E. monsson; continuing to run sometimes about 14 hours at a time, with a slack or flood, of 6 hours. Off Thwart-the-way and the Button, in the same season, it often runs 14 hours at a time to the S. Westward, from 2 to 3½ miles per hour; then changes and sets to N.W. and northward, with much less velocity. At other times, the ebb sets about 6 hours to S.W., and the flood 6 hours to the N. E., with nearly equal velocity, about 3 or 3½ miles per hour, when strongest on the springs, which we experienced in the Anna, in July and August.

During the westerly monsoon, betwixt Java and Thwart-the-way, the tide has also been found to run 3 and 3½ miles per hour when at its greatest velocity, the ebb 6 hours to the S. Westward, and the flood the same length of time to the N. E.; but during strong gales from the westward, the flood frequently runs longest into the strait. In this season, the tide or current on the opposite side of the strait, slants off from the Sumatra coast about the Zutphen Islands, toward the middle of the strait, or the Java shore: and from December to February, the ebb tide along the Sumatra coast between North Island and Hog Point, has been experienced to run generally to the southward from 4 o'clock in the morning until 6 in the evening, and the flood weakly to the northward during the night. In February and March, a rapid current of 4 to 4½ miles per hour, sets sometimes in among the Zutphen Islands to the W. S. Westward, or round them toward Hog Point, which requires great caution in ships passing those islands, or between Hog Point and the Stroom Rock.

Bantam Bay.

BANTAM BAY, about 2½ leagues S. Eastward from St. Nicholas Point, is extensive,

* With the Button bearing W. ¼ N. 2 miles, we anchored in the Anna in 28 fathoms, to stop tide during the night, and had 20 fathoms nearer to the Java shore. At another time, we anchored in the night in 37 fathoms, with the Button bearing S. by W. ½ W., but here the ground was hard.

vol. II. P

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To sail to the anchorage.

and contains several islands; of which, Pulo Panjang, a long flat island, covered with trees, in the West part of the entrance, is the largest. A ship may pass on either side of this island, if bound to the anchorage at Bantam, but the eastern channel between it and Great Pulo Mady is to be preferred, having 8 or 9 fathoms water, and is much wider than the western channel: this is formed between the point that bounds the West side of the bay, and the West end of Pulo Panjang, and the depths in it are 6 and 7 fathoms. If a ship pass through this channel, she must give a birth to a reef that projects from the South side of Pulo Panjang, and others which extend from the small islands in the western part of the bay. If she enter by the channel to the eastward of Pulo Panjang, Bantam Hill (of round form) will be seen, which is on with the town bearing S. S.W., and when the flagstaff of Bantam bears S. S.W., it is open a little to the westward of Little Pulo Mady: with either of these marks on, she may steer for the town, passing on the West side of Great and Little Pulo Mady, and anchor off the town in 5 or 6 fathoms mud. There is a passage to the eastward of these islands, but the channel betwixt them and Pulo Panjang has the deepest water. Pontangh Point is bluff, and forms the East side of Bantam Bay, from which a reef projects a great way to seaward, with a regular decrease of depth toward its outer edges. The perpendicular rise and fall of tide is 5 or 6 feet in Bantam Bay, and along this part of the coas.

Bulo Baby, and islands to the eastward.

PULO BABY, extends about 4 miles nearly East and West; its West end is in lat. 5° 48′ S., and bears from St. Nicholas Point E. 19° N., distant 13 miles. This island is woody and bold to approach, excepting the East end, from which projects a reef. About 5 leagues nearly East from it, lies the westernmost island of the group called Hoorn's Islands; this is the largest of the group, also called Pulo Tidong, or Wapen Island, the West end of which bears about N. ½ W. from Maneater's Island, distant 4 leagues; and to the S. Eastward of these, the Great and Little Cambuys are situated. Pulo Baby, and these islands, with their adjoining shoals, bound the North side of the passage leading to Batavia; and the shoals which stretch along the Java shore, from that off the East point of Bantam Bay, to that projecting from Maneater's Point, bound the opposite side of the passage. The coast of Java, in this space, is low near the sea.

Maneater's Island, situated near the N.W. end of the shoal of that name, which extends a great way out from Java, is level and low, and bears from the West end of Pulo Baby E. 29° S., distant about 7 leagues, and 5 or 6 miles W. S. W. from the Great Cambuys. There is a conspicuous tree on the latter, and both it and the Little Cambuys are moderately elevated.

To soil from St. Nicholas Point toward Batavia,

A SHIP bound to BATAVIA being abreast of St. Nicholas Point, about 3 miles distance, ought, with a fair wind, to steer about E. by S., to pass mid-channel between Pulo Baby and the shoal projecting from the East point of Bantam Bay; and the same course continued, will carry her in the fair channel toward Maneater's Island, if not affected by an oblique tide, which generally sets nearly East and West along this part of the coast: but if the wind is off the land, a course a little more southerly may be requisite. The best track is to keep in 14 and 15 fathoms when a ship is under sail during the night, taking care not to borrow under 12 fathoms toward the Java shore, nor to deepen above 18 fathoms in the offing. For strangers to run in the night, it may sometimes be imprudent, but they can never be at a loss for anchorage, after reaching St. Nicholas Point, there being moderate depths for that purpose, from hence to Batavia.

When the Great Cambuys is approached, the channel becomes contracted, and bounded by shoals, which ought to be passed only in day-light: one of these has 16 feet water on it, and is about the size of a ship; the West end of Pulo Tidong bears from it N. ½ E., and the East end N. N. E. ½ E., Great Cambuys E. S. E. Southerly, and Maneater's Island S. E. ½

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E. There are various channels amongst the islands from hence to Batavia, but that adjoining to the coast of Java, is most frequented by ships of moderate size.

by the outer Channel.

OUTER CHANNEL, is on the North side of the Great and Little Cambuys, and a ship intending to adopt it, should keep within a mile of the great one, to avoid the shoals to the northward, nor ought she to approach the East end of the same island under ½ a mile, for a spit projects from it. After passing these islands, she must edge to the southward until they are on with each other, then steer about E. N. E. for the small island called Pulo Dapour, or Duffen's Island, keeping it a little on the starboard bow. By steering toward it, she will pass betwixt two shoals, separated about 1½ mile from each other, on which beacons have sometimes been placed; it will, however, be prudent to keep a boat a-head sounding, if unacquainted, for few of the shoals have beacons; the depths in this track are generally about 12, 13, and 14 fathoms. Having passed Pulo Dapour on the South side, she must steer to the E. S. Eastward for Edam, to enter Batavia Road by the great channel, leaving Edam and Enkhuysen to the eastward, and Haerlem and Hoorn Islands to the westward. When Edam Island is approached, the depths will be 10 or 11 fathoms, and a course about South should then be steered, to pass betwixt Hoorn and Enkhuysen; when clear of these islands, the dome of Batavia church may be brought to bear S. ¼ E., and this bearing continued, will carry a ship betwixt the Rynland Shoal and Eastern Reef, directly to the road, among the shipping.

Ships do not always pass to the northward of the Cambuys, when proceeding to Batavia Road by the great channel, for some ships pass to the southward of them, then steer to the eastward on the North sides of Middleburgh, Amsterdam, and Haerlem; the shoals that lie contiguous to this track are near the North side of Middleburgh, and to the N. Westward of that island; in passing which, a boat should be kept a-head to sound, by those who are strangers to the channels.

Betwixt the Great and Little Cambuys there is a safe passage, through which we came in the Atlas; having in running from Pulo Baby with the land-wind in the night, got too far from the Java shore, in soundings from 18 to 22 fathoms; we stood along the North side of Great Cambuys in the morning, kept nearest to the little one in passing between them, and had never less than 10 fathoms. We did not see the 3 fathoms shoal placed in some charts, nearly mid-way between these islands; but there is a shoal with 2¾ fathoms least water on it, from which the Little Cambuys bears N.W. ¼ W. distant 2¼ miles, and Edam Island just in sight, open to the northward of Amsterdam and Middleburgh Islands in one.

To sail to Batavia by the Inner Channal;

INNER CHANNEL, leading to Batavia, is generally called the DUTCH CHANNEL being generally used by their ships; and with proper care, it may be considered safe.

Contiguous Islands and shoals.

To proceed through this channel, a ship should pass between Maneater's Island and the Great Cambuys, which can only be done with safety in day-light, on account of the shoals stretching from these islands. Maneater's Shoal projects about a mile to the N.W. and northward of the island of that name, and 1½ mile to the N. Eastward, where the water shoals on the edge of it from 9 to 5 fathoms at a cast of the lead; and on this part of it, there is sometimes a beacon, which is in one with the South point of the island bearing W. ¼ S. Opposite to the extremity of Maneater's Shoal, the passage is bounded on the outside by a reef that projects a considerable way to the westward from the West end of Great Cambuys. A beacon is sometimes seen upon this reef, and another on a shoal a little detached from it to the westward; at other times, they are destitute of beacons. It is proper to mention, that all ships proceeding through any of the channels toward Batavia, must be careful to avoid the shoals, for many which are marked in the old charts with beacons, have none upon

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them. The beacons are stolen at times by predatory fishermen, at other times, washed away by the sea during the N.W. monsoon, and not replaced for a great length of time, or probably in some cases, not at all. They are not conspicuous, consisting only of a single tree, with a small piece of wood in the form of a cross, nailed on some of them.

The depths are 9 and 10 fathoms in the passage between Maneater's Shoal and the reef off Great Cambuys, and the best track, if no beacons are seen, is to borrow nearer to the former island than to the latter. When past Maneater's Island, a direct course should be steered to pass to the southward of Middleburgh Island, bearing from it about E. ¾ S., 4 or 4½ leagues; the coast betwixt them forms a bight which is safe to approach, the soundings decreasing regularly toward the Java shore; and nearly in the middle of the bight, there is a place of some trade, called Songy Lampoon. From 9 to 10 fathoms, are the common depths in passing through this part of the channel.

Ontong Java Point, bounding the East side of the bight, is a sloping headland, covered with trees, and surrounded by an extensive shoal or sand bank, called Ontong Java Reef, which extends a great way out toward the opposite islands. On the northern extremity of the reef, there is a small beacon with a piece of wood sometimes nailed to it in the form of a cross, betwixt which and the Island Middleburgh is the channel, about ½ a mile broad, with regular soundings in it from 8 to 10 fathoms. On the other side of this channel, there is sometimes a beacon placed near the S. E. point of Middleburgh, on a spit projecting a very little way from that point, but too close to be considered dangerous.

Nearly West from Middleburgh, there are some shoal patches that bound the North side of the channel, one of which is distant 1½ mile from the island, bearing West from it; these patches are generally destitute of beacons, but there is often a buoy upon the Mynderk Shoal, which lies about 2 miles W. by N. from the West end of Middleburgh Island.

To avoid these shoals, keep the Flagstaff of Middleburgh, or the South part of that island, at least 3° to the northward of East, until the beacon is seen on the point of Ontong Java Reef; then steer to pass midway between it and Middleburgh. At low water, the sea may be sometimes seen to break on Ontong Java Reef, close inside of the beacon, it being steep to, there, and on the West side; but on the eastern edge of it, opposite to Schiedam, and Onrust, the water shoals regularly. Having passed between the Islands Middleburgh and Amsterdam on one side, and Ontong Java Reef on the other, steer to the southward for the Islands Schiedam and Onrust; when abreast of Schiedam, borrow toward Ontong Java Reef, and run to the southward along the edge of it in 5 fathoms, until the passage between Onrust and Kuyper's Island is fairly open, in order to avoid a Rock or Knowl nearly in mid-channel, on which many ships have grounded. This knowl is small, with only 2 ½ fathoms on its shoalest part; 5¼ and 5 1//2 fathoms close to it on the West side; and 6 or 7 fathoms between it and Onrust. There is frequently a buoy upon it, which is sometimes sunk, or taken away.

When upon the knowl, the piles of Onrust are on with the White House of Kuyper's Island; when the piles are open a little with it either way, the knowl is avoided.

There seem to be other shoal spots to the northward of this knowl, or between it and Onrust, by the account of Capt. Neish, of the Auspicious, which ship grounded on one of them, March 26th, 1816, on her passage from Batavia toward England, with Onrust and Kuyper's Island in one; extremes of the former from S. S. E.¼ E. to S. by W.½ W., and Ontong Java Point W. by N. ¼ N. When aground had 5 fathoms at the stern, and 3 fathoms at the fore-chains, apparently a soft coral rock of small extent, as the Ganges drawing more water, and sailing right a-head of the Auspicious at the time, passed clear of it. Hove off with the stream anchor, and touched the ground lightly twice after, by which Capt. Neish, infers, that the passage between the knowl and Onrust is not safe for large ships, and that the only safe channel is to the westward between the knowl and Ontong Java Reef.

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As the depth decreases gradually on the edge of the flats to the eastward of Ontong Java Point, this is the safe side of the channel when abreast of Schiedam, and a ship may borrow, with care, to 4½ fathoms; at all events, she must not deepen above 5 fathoms in passing the knowl to the N.Westward of Onrust, or until the passage between it and Kuyper's Island is fairly open; being then clear of the knowl, she must haul over for Kuyper's Island, and pass near it on the S.W. side; a beacon will then probably be perceived, standing on a shoal toward the Java shore, which must be left to the southward in passing.

It is said, that the flat has considerably extended lately from Ontong Java to the eastward, and that the depths in the Inner Channel have decreased, for the ship, Good Success, had not more than 4 and 3¾ fathoms in mid-channel, at low water, in passing through. And in borrowing on the edge of Ontong Java flat, the Castlereagh grounded, January 1st, 1825, at 2 P. M., the East end of Amsterdam Island bearing N. 8° W., and Onrust Island E. S. E. After heaving off the flat, she anchored in 4 fathoms, with Onrust bearing S. E. by E., and the beacon on the Knob Shoal East.

Purmerant Island, situated to the eastward of Kuyper's Island, has an extensive rocky reef projecting from it nearly 1½ mile to the eastward, and about ½ a mile to the southward; on the eastern part of this reef there is sometimes a beacon, and formerly there was one on the South end; the sea breaks on some parts of it at low water, or when there is much swell.

When a ship has rounded Kuyper's Island, and no beacons are perceived on Purmerant Reef, or on the shoal adjacent to the main, she ought to steer a direct course for the outer part of the shipping in Batavia Road, bearing about S. 54° E. from Kuyper's Island, distant 2 leagues. In passing along, several beacons will probably be discerned on shoal spots toward the Java shore, all of which must be left to the southward; and the depths will generally be from 7 to 5 fathoms, in the fair track. When the road is approached within 3 miles, a beacon to the eastward may probably be discerned on the Rynland Shoal; this bears from Kuyper's Island E. S. E. ½ S., and from the shipping in the road about N. by W., not far distant, which may be left to the northward id standing into the road; and here, a ship should anchor in 4, 5, or 6 fathoms, at discretion, off shore about 2 miles, with the dome of the church from South to S. by W.

To sail into Batavia Road by the Middle Channel.

MIDDLE CHANNEL, through which we passed three times, in the Anna, is very safe, and with some winds, preferable to the Inner Channel. To sail into Batavia Road by it, a ship must pass to the southward of the Islands Middleburgh and Amsterdam, betwixt them and Ontong Java Reef, as already directed; having passed the latter island, instead of hauling to the southward for the Inner Channel between the islands and the main, she must steer directly eastward for the small Island Haerlem, leaving Schiedam to the southward. When Haerlem is approached, she must edge away to the S. E., betwixt it and Rotterdam, and betwixt the latter and Hoorn; keeping nearest to Hoorn, on account of a reef that projects from the Island Rotterdam a small distance to the S. Eastward. Having rounded the S.W. point of Hoorn Island pretty close, it is prudent to steer S. Eastward until the dome of Batavia church is brought to bear S. ½ E. or S.¼ E., to give a good birth to Purmerant Reef, already mentioned, which projects a great way eastward from the island of that name, and bears about N. by W. ½ W. from Batavia church.

After passing the Island Hoorn, and having brought the dome to bear between S.½ E. and South, she may steer direct for it, with either of these bearings, until she anchor in the road; by keeping the dome of Batavia church S.¼ E., she will pass mid-way between the Rynland Shoal and Eastern Reef. The soundings throughout this channel, after passing Amsterdam Island, are generally 9, 10, and 11 fathoms, until the depths decrease regularly near the road.

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The eastern channels.

EASTERN CHANNELS, leading to, or from Batavia Road, are also safe and convenient. We passed through that formed between Edam, the outermost island, and Alkmaar, the next island to the southward, in regular soundings, 9, 10, and 11 fathoms; and at two other times, we passed in the Anna, through the Leyden Channel, leaving the island of that name to the southward, and Alkmaar and Enkhuysen Islands to the northward, in 10 and 11 fathoms regular soundings. The channel between Leyden and the coast of Java is not frequented by large ships, but is considered safe, if a ship keep near the island, to avoid the reefs between it and the main. One of these about mid-way between Leyden and the Java shore, is delineated on the plans of Batavia Road, as an island of considerable size, with trees on it, called Vader Smith; no such island has existed these last 40 years, there being only a reef under water in the situation assigned to it. To clear Vader Smith's Shoal a large white house with a red top bearing S. S.W., will carry a ship into 7 or 8 fathoms in the road.

Shoals adjacent to the Road of Batavia.

The shoals nearest to Batavia Road, and most in the way of ships approaching it from the northward, are the Rynland Shoal, and Eastern Reef; the latter may be considered as the western extremity of that called Vader Smith, or is separated from it only by a very small channel.

The Eastern Reef is composed of rocks and sand, partly dry at low water spring tides, but there is no break upon it at high water, when the sea is smooth. On the West end of this reef there is generally a beacon, which is discernible from Batavia Road, and bears N. E. ¼ N. when in one with the body of Leyden Island. All ships pass to the westward of this beacon, there being no safe channel to the eastward of it, for a large vessel.

The Rynland Shoal is rocky, with only 10 feet water on it; and is of round form, about the length of a large ship in diameter. It bears N. by W. from the shipping in the road, distant about a mile, and bears also N. by W. or.N.¾ W. from Batavia church; although directly fronting the road, it is at times destitute of a beacon, which was the case twice when we were at Batavia, in the Anna. In 1793, a floating beacon framed of several pieces of timber, was placed on this shoal, more conspicuous than any of the other beacons. Ships generally pass inside of the Rynland Shoal, when they sail through the Inner, or Onrust Channel; but ships sailing to, or from the road by any of the northern channels, mostly pass between it and the Eastern Reef beacon, which passage is safe, with the dome of Batavia church bearing from South to S.½ E.; or this may be kept S.¼ E., which is the best bearing for sailing to, or from the road, betwixt these shoals; this has been already mentioned, in the directions for approaching Batavia by the outer, and middle channels.

Geo. Site of Batavia.

BATAVIA OBSERVATORY, in lat. 6° 9′ S., lon. 106° 51¾′ E., by astronomical observations made by Johan Mauritz Mohr, and this longitude is considered to be very correct.* Here, a ship may procure all kinds of necessary supplies; poultry, excellent fruits, and vegetables are plentiful, and sold at moderate prices. The city is spacious, and many of the houses well built, but the low marshy coast around the bay, and the stagnant water in the canals, which intersect the streets, generate noxious vapours, rendering this place very unhealthy at all times to strangers. The most unhealthy time, is when the canals have lost much of their waters, about the latter part of the dry season, from September to December. Strangers ought never to sleep on shore, if it can be avoided.†

*By mean of observation of Sun and Stars on both sides the Moon, taken in three different voyages, I made Batavia in lon. 106° 54½′ E.; but that of the Dutch astronomer, stated above, is probably nearest the truth. Captain Ashmore, in October, 1822, made it in lon. 106° 51′ 45″ E., by one chronometer, and 106° 52′ 13″ E. by another.

† A tea-spoon full of red bark taken in a glass of port wine, or other cordial, at rising in the morning, has been thought an excellent preventative against the damp vapours, which occasion the Batavia fever. I generally used some preventative of this kind, and never slept on shore, during four voyages to this place, and always escaped the fever, which proves fatal to thousands.

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A few miles inland from Batavia, toward the hills, the country is healthy; and the Europeans who reside there, differ much in appearance from those who inhabit the city, for the latter have in general, a sickly and emaciated aspect.

Batavia is a place of considerable trade, but all foreign ships must obtain permission from the Shahbunder, before they can trade with private merchants. The principal exports are sugar, coffee, spices, &c. The imports, opium, iron, and piece goods, of various kinds.

Fronting the small river or canal that leads to the city, there is a bar of hard bottom, mixed with mud, a little way out, on which there is about 2 or 3 feet at low water. The channel for boats to enter the river, is to the eastward of the bar; and there is at times, a surf upon the bar at low water, when blowing strong in the N.W. monsoon, and strangers ought not then to send their boats to the river, for some small boats have been overset upon the bar, and the people devoured by the crocodiles, which are here, of large size, and very numerous.*

Anchorage.

Ships seldom moor in the road, for the anchors are generally buried in the soft mud; small vessels anchor in 3½ or 4 fathoms, about a mile off shore; and large ships in 5 or 6 fathoms, about 1½ or 2 miles off, with the dome of the church from S. to S. by W. If a ship ground on the main, no danger is to be apprehended, the mud flat being very soft; and the rise and fall of tide, is not more than 6 feet on the springs. There is little or no variation at present in the road of Batavia, or in the seas adjacent.

Island fronting the Road.

The small island Edam, the outermost of those opposite to Batavia, is in lat. 5° 57′ S., and bears from Batavia Observatory N. 10° E.; there is a Flagstaff upon it, and like most of the other islands, it is clothed with trees. Hoorn Island, bears from the road N. by W.; Onrust is the great marine depot, where the ships are hove down by cranes erected upon the wharfs, when they require repairs; and this small island, being the naval arsenal and dock yard, abounds with inhabitants.

The N.W. monsoon generally sets in at Batavia and along the coast of Java, about the beginning of November; and the subsequent strong winds, and heavy rains, greatly cool the atmosphere.

DIRECTIONS for SAILING from BATAVIA, and SUNDA STRAIT, to the STRAIT of BANCA: ISLANDS and DANGERS in the PASSAGE.

To sail from Batavia Road,

To the South Watcher.

DEPARTING from BATAVIA, and bound to Banca Strait, a ship should steer out of the road with the dome of the church S. ¼ E. or S. ½ E., which will carry her between the Rynland Shoal and Eastern Reef: from thence, with the dome of the church from South to S.½ E., she may continue to steer to the northward, through the Great, or Edam Channel, leaving the islands Hoorn, Monnikendam, and Haerlem, to the westward; and Enkhuysen, Edam, and the other islands to the eastward. From Edam she ought to steer for the SOUTH WATCHER (Zuyder Watcher) in lat. 5° 41½′ S., and 8½ miles West from Batavia, by chronometer, bearing about N. 34° W. from Edam, distant 19 miles; and when it is approached within 3 leagues, it should be brought to bear to the northward of N.W., to avoid a small doubtful shoal, called by the Dutch, Nasomver Droogte, situated about 2 leagues S. Eastward from the island. Having passed on either side of the South Watcher, at 2 or 2½ miles distance, a course may be steered to the North and N. N.West for the North Watcher, giving the easternmost of the Thousand Islands a birth of 3 or 4 leagues.

* A jetty, or wooden pier, has lately been carried out from the canal over the bar.

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Thousand Islands.

THOUSAND ISLANDS, are a group or chain of numerous small islands, extending nearly N.W. and S. E., and bounding the West side of the passage betwixt the South and North Watcher. The northernmost island of the chain, is in about lat. 5° 22′ S., and as the southernmost islands, to the westward of the South Watcher, have shoals surrounding them, it is prudent to give a birth of at least 2 or 3 leagues to them in passing. The westernmost isle of the group is separated from the others, and called Pulo Estam, or West Island. In sailing betwixt the North and South Watchers, care is also requisite to avoid the following shoals, to the eastward of the passage, their situations not being very correctly known.

Brewer's Droogte.

Moolenwerf.

Pruysen's Droogte.

BREWER'S DROOGTE, the southernmost of these shoals, is said to be a sand above water, thought to lie in about lat. 5° 22′ S., nearly on the meridian of Edam, and in a N. Easterly direction from the South Watcher. MOOLENWERF, another shoal, thought to be 3½ or 4 leagues to the northward of Brewer's Droogte, is probably the danger seen by the Arabella in 1715, which she made in lat. 5° 11′ S. PRUYSEN'S DROOGTE, said to be dry at low water, and situated 4½ or 5 leagues to the W. N.W. of Brewer's Droogte, may be passed on either side, the depths between them being from 15 to 20 fathoms, and between Pruysen's Droogte and the Thousand Islands to the westward, from 15 to 22 fathoms.

Goe. Site.

One of these shoals was seen by the Elphinstone, August 27th, 1812. At 8 A. M. the South Watcher bore S. 24° W., distant 5 or 6 leagues, steered N. N. E. 9 miles till noon, when breakers, supposed to be on the Pruysen's Droogte, bore N. 48° W., about 6 miles, but no part of it visible above water. When the breakers on the shoal bore E. 8°S., distant 3 miles, the Alnwick Castle, August 27th, 1812, observed at noon in lat. 5° 17′ S., lon. 106° 53′ E., by chronometers from Batavia. Scaleby Castle, May 22d, 1815, at 9 A. M., when Pruysen's.Droogte bore West 1½ mile, had soundings 12½ fathoms. At ½ past 10 A. M., one of the Thousand Islands in sight from the mast-head bearing S.W.½ S. At noon observed lat. 5° 16′ S., Pruysen's Droogte bearing W: 12° N., distant 5 or 6 miles. The shoal seen by these three ships, appears to be one and the same, or that called Pruysen's Droogte, situated by their observations in lat. 5° 17′ S., and bearing from the South Watcher N.10° E., distant 25 miles.*

Armuyden Bank.

ARMUYDEN BANK, in lit. 5° 13½′ S., and bearing from the North Watcher E. 5° S., distant 5 or 5½ leagues, is an island or bank consisting of loose coral, elevated 10 feet above the sea, and about a mile in circuit, environed by a reef of rocks, according to an examination made of it by H. M. ship, Psyche, in 1812, when her boats landed there; and from its highest part, the North Watcher was just visible bearing W.¼ N: This bank abounds with birds' eggs in some seasons; the soundings within 1 or 2 cable's lengths of it, are 9 and 10 fathoms, and from 10 to 14 fathoms in the channel between it and the North Watcher.

When the Armuyden Bank bore E. by N.½ N., distant 3 miles, the Wycombe saw another sand bank bearing S. S. E.; the Dutch place also a shoal 6 miles to the S.W. of the North Watcher, but probably some of these are doubtful. Those which really exist, are not discernible above 5 miles from a ship's deck in a clear day.

Geo. Site of North Watcher.

NORTH WATCHER, in lat. 5° 12½′ S., lon. 106° 32′ E., or 19¾ miles West from Batavia by chronometer, may be passed on the East or West sides, at 1, 2, or 3 miles distance: about ¾ of a mile from its West side, the soundings are regular from 11½ to 12½ fathoms, but a coral reef with only 6 feet water in some parts, stretches around the South end of the

* The Duke of Dorset, May 20th, 1715, sent her boat to sound near the rock, stated in the journal, to bear about N. E. from the South Watcher, distant supposed about 2 leagues; and it was found to be a little above water, not ½ a ship's length in extent, having close to it 13 fathoms water. This must be a different shoal from that described above, or its distance estimated from the South Watcher is erroneous in the Duke of Dorset's journal.

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island to the distance of about ½ a mile, with a rock in one place above water. Both this and the South Watcher are small, covered with trees, and may be seen at the distance of 6 or 7 leagues,

To Sail from the South Watcher toward Banca Strait.

From the South Watcher, if the wind be easterly, a ship may steer about North, giving a wide birth to the Thousand Islands, and afterward pass to the eastward of the Armuyden Bank and North Watcher. Having got into about lat. 5° S., or being clear of the North Watcher and the adjacent shoals, she may shape a course for Lucepara, at the entrance of Banca Strait, which bears from the North Watcher N. 10° W., distant 40 or 41 leagues. If the wind incline at S. W. and Westward, it will be prudent to steer more westerly, borrowing toward the banks which project from the Sumatra Coast to 9, 10, and 11 fathoms; but these ought not to be approached under 8 or 9 fathoms, particularly in the night.

The soundings in this track, however, are not always a sufficient guide, the depths varying from 13 to 10, or 9 fathoms, in a direct line between the North Watcher and Banca Strait, and being nearly the same in the track between that island and Gasper Strait. In lat. 3° 45′ S. there is a Five Fathoms Bank, distant about 11 leagues from the Sumatra Coast, which might be mistaken for the shore bank, were a ship to get upon it in the night. As the soundings are not a sufficient guide, it may be prudent to keep well to the westward in day-light, and get a sight of the Sumatra Coast at times, edging out in the night as circumstances require.

Geo. Site of North Island.

NORTH ISLAND, in lat. 5° 41′ S., lon. 105° 49′ E., or 1° 21′ West from Batavia by chronometer, and about a mile or more from the Sumatra shore, is small, of an even aspect, and may be seen about 7 or 8 leagues. Off its South point, there is a small islet, with a spit projecting a little way, which must have a birth in passing; and with the body of this island bearing N. W. about ¾ of a mile, the Royal Charlotte grounded on a knowl, January 18th, 1813, with 3½ fathoms water on it, and from 4½ to 5 fathoms close to it on both sides. This island is on the meridian of the West part of Thwart-the-way, and is distant about 10 miles N. 16° E. from the highest of the Zutphen Islands.

Three Sisters and adjacent coast.

THREE SISTERS, are three small islands near the Sumatra shore, about a league to the S. S. Westward of North Island; there are two white cliffs on the low coast between them, with a watering place upon the main, a little to the southward of the southernmost White Cliff, and fire-wood contiguous, where ships sometimes used to fill up their water in the westerly monsoon, particularly those bound from China to Europe, by Banca Strait. The coast forms a bay between North Island and the Sisters, and here, ships in want of water, used to anchor in 8, 10, to 12 fathoms, a little to the northward of the North Sister, with North Island bearing about N. by E. or N. 14° E., off the main 1½ or 2 miles. The best situation, however, for obtaining a speedy supply of water, is to anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms mud, abreast of the middle of the opening between the South and North Sisters; for the best watering place being abreast of the latter, close to the southernmost White Cliff, the boats will make two trips here, for one that they could accomplish to the place where ships commonly anchor, as the tide runs chiefly to the southward in this season.

Amongst the Sisters, the depths are from 2 to 3 fathoms, and the coast of this bay is generally lined by a shoal mud flat. About a mile from the North Sister, with the North end of it bearing W. S.W., the water shoals from 12 to 6 fathoms at one cast of the lead, in standing to the southward; and when the North end of the North Sister is on with the White Bluff Cliff, bearing about W.½ N., there are overfalls from 13 to 7 fathoms. There is an islet near the main, about 2 miles southward from the Sisters.

Geo. Site of the Two Brothers.

TWO BROTHERS, in lat. 5° 9½′ S., (the northern one) lon. 106° 5′ E., or 46¾ miles West of Batavia by chronometer, bears from North Island N. 27° E., distant nearly 12 leagues, and from the North Watcher W. 6½° N., about 27 miles; these are two small islands

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near each other, covered with trees, of similar appearance, and may be seen 6 or 7 leagues off. They are in one bearing N. by E. and S. by W., and lie about 6 leagues from the Sumatra Coast. From each end of these islands, a reef projects to a small distance, which lines also their East and West sides, but they may be approached on the West side occasionally within ½ a mile, in soundings of 10 or 11 fathoms: there is said to be a small channel with deep water between them.

To sail from Sunda Strait to the Two Brothers.

SHIPS having passed through Sunda Strait, either between Thwart-the-way and the to the Zutphen Islands, or by the channel betwixt Java and the Button, should steer from these islands, (or after rounding the Button) a direct course for the Two Brothers, if bound to Banca Strait. The depths will soon decrease in steering to the northward, and after passing North Island, 11 or 12 fathoms are good depths to preserve, particularly with a westerly wind; for it is prudent to keep within a moderate distance of the Sumatra Coast, to avoid several dangers in the offing. With a working wind, a good mark in day-light, when standing toward the main, is to tack when North Island and the High Zutphen Island are in one; the depth will then be generally 7 or 8 fathoms, and a large ship ought not to go under these depths, in working betwixt North Island and the Two Brothers. The latter, may be passed on either side within a few miles, to avoid the adjacent shoals, some of which are very dangerous.

Shahbunder Shoal.

SHAHBUNDER SHOAL, named from a Dutch ship that narrowly escaped being lost on it, lies about 7 miles W. by N. ½ N. from the South Brother; but it is extensive, formed of various patches, and seems to be the outer extremity of the shoal bank that projects along, and far out from this part of the Sumatra Coast. The French ship, Jupiter, returning from China, grounded, and had part of her keel broken off upon this shoal. The Sandwich grounded on one of the patches, returning from China in January, 1749, by borrowing too near the coast; when aground in 17 feet water, the northernmost part of Sumatra in sight bore N. by W., the southernmost part W. S. W.½ S., and the North Brother E. N. E. Easterly, distant about 3 leagues. She struck very hard, and after being lightened by starting the water, and throwing some lumber overboard, she was forced over the shoal with a brisk wind, after grounding three times on the different patches. As the depths decrease gradually toward this shoal, the lead if attended to, will indicate its proximity; and a ship passing between it and the Brothers, should keep within 1, 2, or at most 3 miles of the latter, taking care not to borrow under 9 fathoms toward the coast, which in day-light, may be kept in sight, if the weather be clear. The only high land near the shore on this part of the Sumatra Coast, is a sloping hill with a knob on its summit, situated in lat. 5° 20′ S., generally called Knob Hill.*

DANGERS to be avoided by ships steering a direct course between Sunda Strait and the North Watcher, or in sailing between this island and the Brothers, are the following.

Jason Rock.

JASON ROCK, on which the ship of this name struck in 1742, is said to lie W. N. W., 2 leagues from the westernmost isle of the Thousand Islands, and 6 leagues S. Westward from the North Watcher, but the Warren Hastings' boat could not find it in this situation. This rock is not laid down in some Dutch charts, which have a shoal placed on them about 6 miles S. W. from the North Watcher; its true position seems, therefore, very imperfectly known.

Dolphin Rock.

DOLPHIN ROCK, or SHOAL, where the ship of this name was aground, is said to be nearly even with the water's edge, and situated about 2 leagues S. S. E. from the South end of the Two Brothers; but the true place of this shoal, seems also, not correctly determined.

* Not very conspicuous in some views.

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Lynn Shoal.

LYNN SHOAL, is about a cable's length in extent. North and South, having only 2 feet coral rocks on it in some places, and from 14 to 9 fathoms around. When the ship Lynn was aground on it in 1748, the Two Brother bore from W. by N. ¾.to W. N. W. ½ N., distant about 3 leagues. The Bridgewater's boat examined this shoal, and found it to bear from the South Brother E. S. E., distant 8 or 9 miles. Capt. Waterman, saw this shoal in the ship Volunteer, July 29th, 1813, when blowing strong with a considerable sea, yet the breakers on it were not high, nor will it be visible when the sea is smooth. When the South Brother and it were in one, they bore W. by N.½ N., the North Watcher E. ¼ S., then distant from the shoal ¾ of a mile.

The Company's ship, General Hewitt, grounded on this shoal, at 9½ P. M., August 5th, 1820, and did not get off till 9 A. M. next morning: when she first struck, 2 feet water was found on the shoal, but a considerable part of it was dry at low water, about 6 A. M.; and it was found to be nearly a cable's length in extent, composed of hard clay, broken coral, with some small rocks on the northern extremity: the soundings close to it all round are from 10 to 15 fathoms. When aground upon the shoal, the North Brother bore W. 20½° N., South Brother W. 13½° N., and the North Watcher E. 5° S.

Brouwer's shoals.

BROUWER'S SHOALS, in lat. 5° 5′ S., are composed of two coral reefs separated about ¼ mile, with a dry patch of sand and coral on each, which are in one bearing N.17° E., and opposite. They are distant from the Two Brothers 10 or 12 miles, the North end of the shoal bearing from the North Brother N. 64° E., and the Southern extremity bears N. 63° E. from the South Brother. From the North Watcher, the North part of the shoal bears N. 52½° W., and the southern dry patch bears N. 55½° W. from the same island. The whole extent of this shoal, is about a mile and ¼ mile in breadth; in the swatch betwixt the dry patches, there are irregular soundings, from ¼ less 5 to 15 fathoms; and hard ground stretches out from the North and South ends of the shoal. To the eastward and westward of the shoal, at a small distance, the bottom is soft, and the depths are generally 14¼ and 15 fathoms regular soundings, about 1 or 1½ mile to the eastward of it.

Capt. Montgomery Hamilton, of the Duneira, April 23d, 1819, sent a boat with an officer to the shoal, and when on the S.W. patch of it, the North Watcher bore S. E. by E., North Brother W. by S. ½ S., South Brother W. by S. ¾ S.; which appeared to make that part of the shoal to bear N. 69° East, about 15 miles from the South Brother, and N. 54° W., about 13 or 134 miles from the North Watcher.

Direction.

To avoid the Brouwer's and Lynn Shoals on the East side, keep nearer to the North Watcher than to the Two Brothers; or within 2 or 3 miles of the latter, if you intend to pass to the westward of these shoals. To avoid the Dolphin Rock, a ship passing between it and the Two Brothers, should not bring these islands to the westward of North.

Coast and banks from the Two Brothers to Lucepara.

SUMATRA COAST, between the Two Brothers and Lucepara Island, at the entrance of Banca Strait, is low land, clothed with trees; several rivers in this space fall into the sea, and shoal banks project out 2 or 3 leagues from the land, in some places. The most considerable of these rivers, called Tollongbouang, in about lat. 4° 23′ S., is fronted by an extensive bank, with very shoal water on it, stretching nearly 3 leagues off; and several miles parallel to the coast.

Farther North, in about lat. 4° S., another extensive bank projects to a greater distance from the coast than the former, with various shoal soundings on it, and several dry patches. This is generally called the Bank or Shoals off Tree Island, being situated to the East and S. Eastward of a point of laud having tall trees on it, which is thought to be separated from the main by a small channel, and therefore called Tree Island. About 7 leagues E. N. Eastward from Tree Island Bank, and 10 or 11 leagues to the S. S. E. of Lucepara, in about lat. 3° 45′ S., there is a bank (already mentioned) with 5 or 4½ fathoms on it, or probably less

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water in some parts, which several ships have mistaken for the former: this outer bank consists of fine grey sand, and the edge of Tree Island Bank of coarse sand and gravel. The depths betwixt these banks are generally from 9 to 11 fathoms, but great care is requisite when sailing hereabout in the night, as several ships by borrowing too close to the coast after coming through Banca Strait, have grounded on Tree Island Bank, and were in great danger.

Geo. Site of this Island.

LUCEPARA ISLAND, about a mile in extent North and South, situated at the southern entrance of Banca Strait, is in lat. 3° 13′ S., lon. 106° 10′ E., or 5* miles East from the Two Brothers by chronometer, bearing from them N. 2½° E., distant 39 leagues. It is covered with tall trees, having a small peak on it at one part, and a little rising at the other end, when viewed from the S. Eastward, and may be seen about 5½ leagues from the deck.

A reef projects from the island 2 miles to the S. S. E., and shoal spits of sand extend 4 leagues to the N.W. and N. N. Westward; a reef also lines the North and East sides to 1/3 of a mile distance, with 3 fathoms close to it, from whence the depths increase gradually to the N. E. and Eastward, but there are 6 or 7 fathoms within ¾ of a mile of its S. Western side. January 4th, 1813, the Discovery anchored in 6¼ fathoms blue mud, with the island bearing S.W. ½ S., distant 1½ mile, and Capt. Ross, landed in the boat, on a sandy beach, on the East side, a little way to the southward of a projecting rock with a tree on it. No fresh water was found, nor could any turtle be procured, although people were stationed on the beach at night; but the island abounded with green and cream coloured pigeons, of which 46 were shot.

Capt. Torin, of the Coutts, sent his boat in 1798, to the S. W. side of the island, where a fine spring of fresh water was seen, which appeared to be frequented, probably by the Malay proas.

Tosail from then Two Brothers to Banca Strait.

A ship bound to Banca Strait, having approached the Two Brothers bearing to the east ward of North, should pass near them on the West side, if the wind be favorable; from thence, she may steer N. ½ E. to N. by E. ½ E. for Lucepara, endeavouring to keep in soundings from 9 to 12 fathoms, as a direct course cannot be depended upon, on account of irregular currents, or tides setting out from the rivers. Neither can the soundings in this tract be implicitly trusted to, being irregular, from 8½, to 11 or 12 fathoms in some places, particularly contiguous to Tree Island Bank, and the edges of the other banks projecting from the coast of Sumatra; also in the vicinity of the 4½ or 5 fathoms bank in the offing. It is, however, prudent, to borrow toward the main, if the depths increase to 12 or 13 fathoms; and to haul off from it, if they decrease to 8½ or 9 fathoms toward the banks that line the coast. Near these, the soundings are generally hard and more irregular, than farther out from the land in 12 and 13 fathoms; but in the latter depths, a ship will be too far off the coast with a westerly wind.

When the weather is very clear, during the day; it may be proper to get a sight of the coast from the poop deck of a large ship, at times, edging out occasionally in the night, or when the depths decrease to 8½ or 9 fathoms.

Having passed the bank off Tree Island, the coast may be approached with greater safety, and the depths will decrease regularly steering to the northward for Lucepara, to 5½ fathoms when it bears N.½ E., distant about 3 or 3½ leagues. The S.W. point of Banca, situated in lat. 3° 6′ S., is fronted by extensive banks and overfalls, some of them distant 4 or 5 leagues to the South and S. S. Westward, with soundings of 9 to 14 fathoms between them. Ships which steer from the Two Brothers to give a wide birth to the banks adjoining to the

* Captain Lestock Wilson, made the difference of longitude 5 miles, by excellent chronometers, which is probably near the truth. Capt. Ross, in his survey of the shoals to the northward of Lucepara, made this island in lat. 3° 13½ S. by observations taken on it, and in lon, 106° 12′ E., or 42½ miles West of Entrance Point, at the S. E. part of Banca, by chronometers.

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Sumatra Coast, by keeping in 12 and 13 fathoms, are liable to fall in with the banks which front the South end of Banca; which, although not considered dangerous, 7 or 8 fathoms may be got upon them, when the land is seen to the northward, distant 7 or 8 leagues, but the coast of Sumatra will not be discernible; in such case, they must haul to the westward to round Lucepara, the channel betwixt that island and Banca, not being considered safe, except for small vessels. There may, however, be a safe channel to the eastward of Lucepara, near the Banca shore, for Commodore Watson passed to the eastward of the island Lucepara during the night, in the Revenge, and had never less than 5½ fathoms water; but Capt. Ross, in his late examination of this place, found several shoal spits separated by gaps of deep water; and he is of opinion, that no large ship ought to attempt the passage between Lucepara and Banca, for she would probably ground upon some of the shoal spits which extend 5½ leagues North of Lucepara, and have 1½ to 3 fathoms water upon them, and from 7 to 10 fathoms close to.

If a ship, sailing in the night between the Two Brothers and Banca Strait, should get into shoal water, or be uncertain of her situation, it will be prudent to anchor immediately, and wait for day-light; for the depths are moderate, and the bottom throughout this track, generally favorable for that purpose.

STRAIT of BANCA; with SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Bance Strait.

STRAIT OF BANCA, bounded by the island Banca to the East, and by the coast of Sumatra on the West side, extends from the island Lucepara about 34 leagues, with an undulating course to the N. Westward. The Sumatra coast being low marshy land, inundated at high water, and only the trees discernible, navigators are liable to estimate their distance from it greater than the truth; but it ought not to be approached too close, on account of a shoal mud bank, which extends in some places 2 or 3 miles from the shore. Many ships, at different times, have grounded upon this mud bank, adjoining to the coast, and got off with great difficulty after much labour, and sometimes with loss of anchors.

The island of Banca is more elevated, having a chain of hills generally called St. Paul's Mountains, contiguous to its South end; but Parmasang, and Monopin Hills, on the West side of the island, are more conspicuous. Exclusive of the dangers between Lucepara and Banca, Pulo Laboang Dapper, bearing from Lucepara E. N. E. is a small island situated near the Banca shore.

Tides in the Strait.

TIDES, in Banca Strait, are very irregular, and influenced greatly by the prevailing winds: in favorable weather, the flood runs in, at both ends of the strait, to the Nanka Islands nearly in the middle of it, where they meet. During the westerly monsoon, when rains prevail, the freshes set out of the rivers on the Sumatra coast toward the opposite side, which should be guarded against in the night.

There are sometimes, two floods and two ebbs in 24 hours; at other times, only one flood and one ebb during the same interval. When strong S. Easterly winds prevail, the flood runs strong into the southern part of the strait, frequently for 14 or 16 hours; and the ebb in the opposite direction, for 8 or 10 hours. During the opposite season, particularly in December, and January, when N.W. and northerly winds predominate, the ebb, or rather current, sometimes runs strong out of the southern part of the strait for 12, 14, and even 18 hours; and during the remainder of the 24 hours, there is only a slack or weak indraught,

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when the water rises over the ground. In this season, it is almost impossible for an indifferent sailing ship to get through the strait to the northward.

In August, and also in other months, the flood has been experienced at times, to run in, about 12 hours, and the ebb out of the strait for the same length of time, taking a turn all round the compass during their change. The velocity of the tide on the springs, is sometimes from 3 to 4 miles per hour, when the wind is strong; and the perpendicular rise, from 9 to 12* feet, both within the strait and to the southward of Lucepara. In the channel, between this island and Sumatra, where the bottom is soft over an extensive flat, the rise and fall of tide has seldom been found more than 9 or 10 feet; notwithstanding, the water is so shoal there, that large ships, deeply laden, are liable to touch the ground at low water.

Western channel.

Caution requisite.

WESTERN CHANNEL, formed between the island Lucepara and a low green point on the Sumatra coast opposite, called Lucepara Point, is generally chosen by vessels proceeding through Banca Strait. In this channel, and to the distance of 3 leagues southward from Lucepara, the water is shoal on an extensive flat; the depths on which, are generally from 4½ or 4¾ fathoms, to 5 and 5½ fathoms. The West side of the channel is bounded by a mud flat, projecting 2 or 3 miles in some places from the coast; and on the East side, several dangerous spits or shoals lie to the North and N. Westward of Lucepara, which greatly contract the channel. The distance from the island to the coast is about 3 leagues or more, but the fair channel for ships, is not more than 2 or 2½ miles wide in some places, particularly to the N.W. of Lucepara, where the shoals in the offing approach nearest to the mud flat that fronts the coast. Navigators, if unacquainted, should send a boat a-head to sound in this part of the strait, keeping in 4 and 4½ fathoms on the edge of the flat that bounds the Sumatra coast: or she may sound occasionally on the edge of the westernmost shoals in the offing, as circumstances require.

In passing through the channel, the bottom will generally, though not always, be hard sand, if a ship draw near the shoals adjacent to Lucepara; and usually soft mud, on the edge of the flat bounding the West side of the channel. Although close to the edge of the N. Westernmost Lucepara shoal, there are 5½ and 6 fathoms soft ground, yet it is generally hard on the edges of these shoals; a ship ought, therefore, to keep in soundings, if possible, neither hard, nor too soft, to preserve the mid-channel track.

Shoals on the East side of the channel.

THE SHOALS, to the N. W. and northward of Lucepara, that bound the channel on the East side, are mostly long narrow spits extending N. N. W. and N.W. from that island; excepting a round dangerous bank with 2½ to 1½ fathoms on it, situated near to the southern edge of the extensive narrow spit that lines the East side of the channel. The Western point of this round dangerous bank bears by compass N. 55° W. from Lucepara 8 miles, and S. S. E. ¼ E. from the First Point about 9 miles, having 4 and 5 fathoms very near its edge, with 6 fathoms about a mile to the westward, or nearly in mid-channel, which is here very little more than 2 miles wide between the coast flat, and this dangerous bank on the eastern side of the passage.

The Cuffnels grounded on the East side,

The Cuffnels, homeward bound, being too far from the Sumatra shore, grounded upon the N. E. side of one of the long narrow spits, February 21st, 1803, Lucepara bearing S. 32° E., Lucepara Point S. 32° W., and the First Point N.W. After getting afloat, and warping the length of four hawsers to the N. N. E., she anchored in 10 fathoms mud; Lucepara Island then bore S. 29° E., Lucepara Point S. S.W. ½ W., First Point of Sumatra N. 49° W., St. Paul's Mountains N. 78° E., Pulo Laboang Dapper E. 3° S., observed lat. 3° 4′ S. From this station, the North end of the spit or shoal was found on examination, to extend N. N.W.

* It has been stated, that the tides in Banca Strait have been known to rise and fall about 18 feet; if this ever happen, it must arise from some unusual and irregular cause.

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about 1½ mile from the ship; and to round it, she steered N. N. E. 2 miles in 10 fathoms mud, then westward, to get into the proper channel, decreasing the depth to 5 fathoms about 3 miles from the Sumatra shore.

and other ships.

Captain Egeberg, was aground on its western edge in 3 fathoms, in a Swedish ship, cepara bearing S. E. by S.; the Camfall, a Portuguese ship, had the island bearing the same, when aground. Captain Torin, places the part of the round bank on which he was aground in the Coutts, in 2¾ fathoms, about 8 or 9 miles N. 42° W. from Lucepara, the First Point then bearing N. N. W. ¼ W., open a little with the western extremity of the Parmasang Hills.

H. M. S. Billiqueux, grounded in 3½ fathoms, and had hard soundings from 2 to 5 fathoms on the round dangerous shoal, Island Lucepara bearing S. 48° E., Lucepara Point S. 42° W., First Point N. 26½° W.

The Inglis, homeward bound, December 11th, 1821, got aground on the N. E. point of the westernmost spit that bounds the east side of the channel, about 2½ miles to the northward of the round dangerous Bank, Lucepara Island bearing from the ship aground S. E. ½ S., Lucepara Point S. by W., and the First Point N.W. ½ N. Here she lay three days, upon uneven knowls of hard sand, having only 12 and 14 feet on some of them at low tide, and after having been lightened, by taking out the guns, starting the water, throwing overboard the lumber, and teas from the orlop deck, exclusive of 700 to 800 chests of teas from the hold, she got off the sand on the 14th, with the aid of two Dutch vessels that came to her assistance.

The channel greatly contracted by shoals.

These dangers extending farther to the westward than generally supposed, and the mud flat projecting a great way out from the opposite coast, render the channel very contracted in this part, as stated above, which may be farther proved by the following extract taken from Captain Cowman's journal, who passed close to these shoals in the ship Magdalen, August 12th, 1806. At 10 A. M. the Island Lucepara S. E. ½ E., First Point N. N.W. ½ W., in 3 fathoms, distant about 100 fathoms from an extensive shoal, steered along its western edge several miles in from 3 to 5 fathoms, hard bottom. When the island bore S. E. ¾ E., and the First Point N. N.W. ½ W., had 4½ fathoms hard ground, close to the shoal. The island S. E. ½ E., and First Point N. by W. ½ W., had 6 fathoms soft, about 100 fathoms distant from the shoal. The Island S. 54° E., First Point N. 15° W., had 8 fathoms, about 200 fathoms to the northward of the shoal, and carried from 12 to 14 fathoms from its steep northern verge, to the First Point. This shoal is extensive, and shewed itself very plain, and the flat stretching from the opposite coast of Sumatra was nearly dry, the tide being very low: the channel between them, did not appear to be more than 1¾ or 2 miles broad.

Sailing directions.

In entering the strait, a ship ought not to bring the island to the southward of S. 54° E., until the First Point bears N. 15° W., which will bring her pretty near the Mud Flat; she may then steer North and N. by E. to round the First Point at 3 miles distance.

SHIPS, bound into the strait from southward, generally fall in with the Island Lucepara bearing between N. by E. and N. W., in soundings from 5½ to 8 or 9 fathoms; if seen bearing to the westward of North, steer toward the Sumatra coast until Lucepara is brought to bear North, distant 3 or 4 leagues. From hence, steer to the N. W., and keep about 1 to 2 leagues from the island, till you draw it well to the eastward, then keep in mid-channel between it and the coast about Lucepara Point, which bears nearly West from the island about 3 or 3¼ leagues. It seems advisable to take the soundings from the West side of the channel in this part, when the wind is westerly, keeping in soft ground from 4¼ to 5¼ fathoms; but the depths increase to 6 and 7 fathoms near Lucepara, when it bears between E. N. E. and S. E. by E., and it may be approached in working, within 2 miles with these bearings.

When Lucepara bears E. N. E., Parmasang Hills will be discerned if the weather is clear:

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with the western extremity of these hills bearing N. by W. ½ W., is the fair channel, and by the time Lucepara is brought to bear E. by S. ½ S., the First Point ought to be in one with the western extreme of Parmasang Hills, bearing about N. by W. W.: you will now have 5 or 5¼ fathoms, soon after 4¾ or probably 4½ fathoms, for a little way. With the West end of Parmasang Hills kept on with the First Point, steer N. by W. to N. N. W., so as to bring the highest Parmasang Hill nearly on with it when Lucepara bears S.59° E.; here, you will have 6 or 6½ fathoms, being past the shoalest water, and in the narrowest part of the channel, abreast of the western extremity of the shoals in the offing, and the mud spit projecting from the coast. Continue to steer about N. by W. still observing to keep the First Point in one with the western extremity of the Parmasang Hills, until Lucepara bears S. 50° E.; being now clear of the shoals in the offing, steer about N. by E., to round the First Point at 2 or 3 miles distance, in 10 or 12 fathoms water. The West extreme of Parmasang Hills kept on with the First Point, is a safe leading mark to avoid the shoals on the East side of the channel, as stated by Capt. Torin, of the Coutts.

If the weather be cloudy, with the Parmasang Hills not visible, keep within 3 or 4 miles of the Sumatra shore, observing not to bring Lucepara to the southward of S. 54° E., until the First Point bears N. by W. ½ W.: when within 5 or 6 miles of the latter, edge out a little, to avoid the shoal flat to the southward of that point, being then clear of the western extremity of the shoals in the offing; but do not bring the First Point to bear so much northerly as N. by W. ¼ W., when it is approached within the distance mentioned above, as the Hindoostan's boat had 3¼ fathoms on the shoal flat, with this bearing.

Hindostan's Shoal.

From the First Point, E. by N. about 6 miles, lies the HINDOSTAN'S SHOAL, a small bank with 3 fathoms water on it, and 4½ or 5 fathoms all round; the Hindostan got upon this spot, May 7th, 1798, and when aground, the southernmost hill of Mount Parmasang bore N. 31° W., low land about Point Lalary N. 54° W., low land about the First Point S. 72° W., lucepara S. 12° E., a hill like an island on Banes S. 68° E., and a rocky point nearly East. From the First Point East 2½ miles, 7 fathoms water is the depth, on a spit which extends in a S. S. E. direction about 1½ mile, having from 6 to 5 fathoms on it generally; but there is a patch at its southern extremity of only 4½ fathoms, which bears E. S. E. from the First Point about 3¼ miles.

West side of the channel.

Several ships have grounded there.

THE MUD FLAT, that lines the coast of Sumatra, although not so dangerous as the shoals on the East side of the channel, should nevertheless, be approached with great caution, for to the southward of the First Point, it projects about 2 miles from the shore; and its verge here, directly opposite to the N.W. extremity of those shoals, is steep to. September 1st, 1803, the Ganges grounded on the Mud Flat to the southward of the First Point, this point bearing N. by W. and the Island Lucepara S. E. by E. ¼ E., off shore 2 or 3 miles. This part of the flat appeared to be a spit, for the boats found 8 and 9 fathoms to the W.S. W., with very irregular soundings about the ship.

She lay 20 hours in the mud, was obliged to carry out a bower and stream anchor, which were lost, with two men. The Cuffnels, March 7th, 1811, at 2 P. M. grounded on the Sumatra flat, after having shoaled regularly to 4 fathoms, island of Lucepara bearing S. E., coast of Sumatra from the First Point N. by W. ½ W. to South, and Parmasang Mount just open with the Point. Carried out the stream anchor astern, and hove off at 2 A. M. being then high water, and anchored about ½ a mile to the N. E. of the edge of the flat. Other ships, when aground on this mud flat, have been obliged to start part of their water, before they could be floated off.

In the Hindostan's journal, April 20th, 1800, Captain Millett, made the following remarks relative to the bank. To the southward of the First Point of Sumatra, a mud bank projects about 2 miles from a green point of land: when Lucepara bore S. E. ¼ S., just in sight, First Point N. by W. ¼ W., and the point from whence this bank extends farthest out

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S. by W. ¾ W., the boat had 3¼ fathoms; and standing off from it, the water deepened suddenly to 5½ fathoms. The Madras put her helm down in 5½ fathoms, and grounded; this bank ought not to be approached under 6½ or 7 fathoms.

The Buckinghamshire, December 20th, 1816, after passing the First Point in 11 fathoms, steering S. E. by E. at 3 P. M. shoaled from 11 fathoms suddenly to 6, 4 and ¼ less 4 fathoms, then grounded on the Sumatra flat, with the First Point bearing N. 20° W. about a sail's breadth open of a small hill that joins the western part of Parmasang Hill, the highest part of which bore N. 18° W. a point to the southward of the First Point S. 84° W., Southern extreme of Sumatra S. 3° W., Lucepara Island S. 42° E., distance off the nearest shore about 2 miles. The bank consisted of soft mud, from which the ship was hove off at high water.

The Waterloo, December 16th, 1817, after passing the First Point, grounded on the Sumatra mud flat, Lucepara Island bearing S. 45° E., and the First Point N. 21° W., and open considerably with the extremity of Parmasang Hill; and the point was on with the second hummock to the westward of that hill. This ship lay aground nine days, and floated off the bank on the 25th, after being greatly lightened by the Winchelsea, in company, having received her guns, shot, and part of the cargo.

The Bridgewater, January 21st, 1818, grounded on the Sumatra flat to the Southward of the First Point, with the western extreme of Parmasang Hill N. 19° W., First Point N. 21° W., Lucepara Island S. 40° E., Lucepara Point S. 4° W. After the tide rose, hove clear of the bank, by four 10-inch hawsers, made fast to the Lowther Castle at anchor about three cables' lengths distant, in 71/5 fathoms water.

August 30th, 1803, the Coutts anchored in 5 fathoms soft mud, Lucepara Point S. 40° W., the Island E. 22½° S., and the First Point N. 9½° W., distant from the nearest shore 3½ miles; at low water she had only 3½ fathoms, and grounded, the tide having fallen 1½ fathom. She was nearly in the fair channel at this time, but rather a little toward the Sumatra side; for 4½ fathoms is generally the least water in the fair track, with Lucepara bearing E. S. Eastward, which is the shoalest part of the channel. Farther to the northward, the depth increases toward the shoals in the offing, and also toward the mud flat that projects from the coast near the First Point.

Brief Directions.

BRIEF DIRECTIONS for Sailing through the LUCEPARA PASSAGE. If entering it from the southward, and having passed about mid-channel between Lucepara Island and the Sumatra coast, as soon as the First Point is seen, bring it to bear N. by W. ½ W., or just touching the western extremity of Parmasang Hill if the latter is visible, and keeping Lucepara Point to the westward of S. 5° W. until the Island of Lucepara bears S. 54° E.: being then within 7 or 8 miles of the First Point, edge out a little to bring it to the westward of N. 22° W., well open with the western extremity of Parmasang Hill; or even touching, or just opening with Point Lalary, to avoid the Sumatra Flat which projects out 2 miles or more. Another guide is, to keep Lucepara Point between S. 5° W. and S. 10° W., and not to bring Lucepara Island to the southward of S. 36° E. till within 4½ or 4 miles of the First Point; being then to the northward of the outer shoals, this point may be opened considerably with Point Lalary, as you approach to round it at 2 or 3 miles distance.

ENTERING FROM THE NORTHWARD, and having rounded the First Point at 2 or 3 miles distance, keep Point Lalary open with it, or the western extremity of Parmasang Hill well open with the First Point, observing to keep the latter to the westward of N. 22° W. till Lucepara Island is brought to bear S. 50° E.: being then about 7 miles to the southward of the First Point, and having passed the projecting part of the Sumatra Flat, where many ships have grounded, the western extremity of Parmasang Hill should be gradually drawn into contact with the First Point bearing N. by W. ½ W. Or Lucepara Point

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kept bearing between S. 5° W. and S. 10° W. appears also to be a safe guide for the narrow part of the channel, between the projecting part of the Sumatra Flat and the shoals situated 2½ and 3 leagues to the N. Westward of Lucepara. When this island is brought to bear E. S. E. you may haul over towards it, as the deepest water is found in that side of the channel, and you may pass it at 2 miles distance if necessary, in steering to the southward, until 2½ or 3 miles to the southward of Lucepara; being then clear of the long reef which extends from it in that direction, you may haul more to the eastward at discretion if needful.

Geo. Site of First Point.

FIRST POINT, in lat. 3° 0′ S., lon. 103° 58′ E., bearing N. 42° W. from Lucepara Island, distant 17 miles, is low and level, the trees on it being of equal height; and it bears North a little easterly from Lucepara Point. The Mud Flat projecting from this point, is steep, and should not be approached under 10 or 12 fathoms, particularly on the N. E. side, which depths are about 1 or 1½ mile off: neither ought a ship to stand too far out to the eastward, on account of the Hindostan's Bank, already mentioned.

Point Lalary.

TANJONG PANGONG, or POINT LALARY, on the Island Banca, bears N.W. by N. from the First Point, distant 10½ miles; and the coast of Sumatra takes a westerly direction from the First Point about 5 or 6 leagues, then northerly about 4 leagues to the Second Point, known by a high tree a little inland, very conspicuous above the others. The coast betwixt the First and Second Points forms a deep bight, which is bounded by two interjacent points; that nearest to the First Point being generally called the False First Point, and the other to the northward, the False Second Point. The whole of the coast here, as in other parts, is fronted by a shoal mud flat, projecting from it about 2 miles in some places.

Secoud Point.

Carang timbaga.

SECOND POINT, in lat. 2° 41′ S., bears from the First Point nearly N.W., distant 9 leagues; the Sumatra coast in this place, may be approached to 11 or 12 fathoms, about 2 or 3 miles off, but ships seldom stand above ½ or 2/3 channel over toward Banca, on account of an extensive shoal near that side of the strait, opposite to the Second Point. This shoal, called CARANG TIMBAGA, although formerly not considered dangerous, is now ascertained to have several dangerous places on it: the ship Good Hope, June 28th, 1814, having shoaled suddenly on its edge from 19 to 10 fathoms, the anchor was let go, she had then 6 fathoms rocks under the stern, 4½ fathoms on another spot, and 8 fathoms sand at the main chains, Second Point of Sumatra bore then W. 3° S., Point Lalary S. 35° E., Parmasang Peak N. 43½° E., a rock above water S. 70° E., distant 2 miles. Capt. Napier, of this ship, describes the shoal to be a long narrow ridge of rocks and sand, stretching N. W. and S. E. about 2 miles. The first of the flood sets strong to the N. N. E. across the shoal, with ripplings, and the latter part to N. N. W. The boat found regular soundings of 12 and 13 fathoms between the shoal and the rock, with 7 fathoms close to the latter, from which the Second Point bore West, and Point Lalary S. S. E.

The following danger, seen by Capt. Rush, of the Royal Charlotte, January 15th, 1813, seems to be on the Carang Timbaga Shoal. Past noon, saw a reef of rocks a little above the surface of the sea, (but probably covered at high water), distant about 2 miles from the Banca shore, and extending about ¾ of a mile, Parmasang Hill bearing then N. E., Point Lalary S. E. ½ S., Second Point W. ¾ N., and the reef East from us, distant about 2 miles.

Capt. Ross, of the Discovery, in his survey of the shoals to the northward of Lucepara, ascertained the foregoing shoal to be dangerous. December 29th, 1812, saw some rocks above water, which were on with Point Lalary bearing S. 33° E., anchored in 10 fathoms, and had 7¼ fathoms in the chains, coral rock, on the edge of the shoal. Sent the boat to sound toward the rocks, and the depths decreased to 2 and 1½ fathoms, alternately rocks, sand, and mud. When on the rocks, the Second Point bore W. ½ N., tree on ditto W. 5° S.,

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Directions.

White Rock N. 4½° E., Parmasang Point N. 8° E., the peak N. 26° E., Point Lalary S. 32½° E., Great Nanca Island N. 16° W.

The best track in passing from the First to the Second Point, is to keep in from 12 to 18. fathoms, mostly regular soundings, and not to stand above mid-channel, or at farthest 2/3 channel toward Banca, keeping within 5 or 6 miles of the Sumatra shore.

The General Hewitt, in June, 1816, whilst working between the Second and Third Points, shoaled to 7 fathoms when standing towards the Sumatra coast, when the helm was instantly put down, and she had 6 fathoms in stays, distant at least 4 miles from the Sumatra shore.

The brig Shannon, bound from Singapore to Batavia, March 27th, 1825, had shoal soundings of 4 to 3, and 2¾ fathoms, with Parmasang Hill E. ¼ N., northernmost Nanka Island N. ¾ E., Second Point S. E. by S.—and she had 4½ fathoms with the northernmost Nanka Island N. N. E. ½ E., and the Third Point N.W. ¾ N.

Parmasang Point, on the Banca side of the strait, projecting out from the hills of this name, is steep to, having 5 fathoms very near it, and a rocky islet a little to the northward; between it and Nanka Point, the coast of Banca forms a deep bay, having overfalls and foul ground in this part, rendering it necessary to avoid this side of the strait, and to keep nearest to the Second Point of Sumatra, in passing.

Third Point with sailing directions.

THIRD POINT, in lat. 2° 23′ S., bears from the Second Point about N. W. by N., distant 20 miles, and W. N. W. ¾ N. from the highest Parmasang Hill; it is a little higher than the others, having 13 fathoms about 1 mile off when it bears S.W. ½ S., and only 3 feet at ¼ mile distance. The coast of Sumatra betwixt these points, forms a deep bay, having a shoal flat stretching across it, and projecting about 4 miles from the shore. To avoid the overfalls on the Banca side, and the flat that lines the Sumatra coast, a ship should round the Second Point about 3 or 4 miles distance, then steer northward for the Nanka Islands, keeping in mid-channel; the soundings in this track, will be generally from 20 to 16 fathoms, decreasing toward the Nanka Islands, and being abreast of these at 4 miles distance, haul to the westward for the Third Point, to pass it at the distance of 2 or 3 miles.

Geo. Site of Nanka Islands.

NANKA ISLANDS, in lat. 2° 25′ S., lon. 105° 48½ E.,* by chronometers from Batavia, are three in number, situated about 4 or 5 miles from the Banca shore; the middle one is low, but the outermost, or Little Nanka, and also the large, or Great Nanka, next to Banca, are moderately elevated. The latter is high in the middle, sloping to a point at each end when viewed from the southward, and is about 1½ mile in extent.

Wood and water.

Ships in want of wood or water, frequently touch here, to procure a supply, which may be got conveniently on the largest island; small ships may anchor occasionally on the North side of the islands in 3½ or 4 fathoms, but here, the ground is not very good. The Company's ships, bound homeward, anchor to the Southward or S.W. of them, where they fill up their water, as these islands are preferable for this purpose, to the watering place at North Island, but not so convenient, as at Rajah Bassa.

The Discovery, December 28th, 1812, anchored in 7½ fathoms clay, with Great Nanka bearing from N. 18½° E. to N. 59½° E., distant about 2 miles, Little Nanka N. 20½° W. to N. 25½° W., Third Point of Sumatra W. 13° N., Parmasang Point S. 30° E., Parmasang Peak S. 47° E., and a large tree on Sumatra, supposed to be that near the Second Point S. 3° W. The Wexford anchored in 6¼ fathoms, about a mile off Great Nanka bearing from N. 12° W. to N. 33° E., and Parmasang Peak S. 42° E.

Amongst these islands, there are some rocks, and other rocks or reefs, stretch from them to the Banca shore, having only 2 or 2½ fathoms water between them, precluding any safe

* Capt. Ross, makes them 1° 13½′ East from the East end of Pulo Aor by mean of four chronometers, which agrees exactly with the lon. stated above.

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passage for vessels inside the islands. From the N. West side of Great Nanka, a reef projects about 2 cables' lengths, with rocks above and under water, but the N. E. side is safe to approach with boats, where are several coves with white sand; that where the watering place is, consists of brownish sand, and the run of water, which is good, may be seen when the tide is low, but at other times, it cannot be perceived without landing. There is a spring of water near the S. E. point of the island, not so good as the former, nor sufficient for more than one or two ships: there are also some springs in a bay, with a sandy beach, on the West side of the island, where H. M. S. Billiqueux, and convoy of seven sail from China, filled up their water in March, 1811. The tide rises here 12 feet perpendicular, during the springs, and sometimes more.

Fourth Point.

Coast, and shoal bank.

Several ships have grounded on it.

How to be avoided.

FOURTH POINT, in lat. 2° 20′ S., bears from the Third Point about W. ½ N., distant 7 leagues; the coast betwixt them forms a concavity, lined by a shoal bank, which may be approached occasionally to 7 or 8 fathoms, regular soundings, but you may keep 3 or 4 miles off shore, not coming nearer the edge of the bank than 10 fathoms. This is considered the safe side of the strait, the Banca side having in some places foul ground and overfalls, and forming a deep bight between the Nanka Islands and Mintow Point, is seldom borrowed on very close; for ships generally keep within 5 or 6 miles of the Sumatra coast, in regular soundings from 9 to 12 fathoms. The Fourth Point may be approached occasionally to 10 fathoms, at the distance of ½ or ¾ of a mile. From the Fourth Point, the coast stretches nearly West about 7 or 8 leagues, and in this space the different branches of PALAMBAN RIVER fall into the sea. Shoal banks project 3 or 4 miles out from these rivers, which are very steep to, from 8 or 9 fathoms, and ought never to be approached under these depths, night or day. This may be considered as a continued bank extending N. W. and Westward from the Fourth Point, projecting from it about 2 miles, but much farther out, a little to the westward of the point, and opposite to Palamban Rivers. Several ships have grounded on this bank, by borrowing too close. The Wycombe, after rounding the Fourth Point about 2 or 2½ miles distance, in 10 fathoms, continued to keep 10 and 11 fathoms until the lead was overhove, and before another cast could be got, she grounded on the edge of the bank, the extremes of Sumatra bearing from W. 6° S. to E. 19° S., Fourth Point S. 58° E.. Monopin Hill N. 1° E., easternmost part of Banca in sight N. 45° E., off the Sumatra shore 3 miles. A little way inside the ship, the boats had 10, 7, and 3 feet water, and the whole of the bank toward the shore and the Fourth Point, seemed very little covered at low tide. About ½ a cable's length outside, the water deepened to 8 fathoms, and in this depth an anchor was laid, by which she hove off the bank on the following tide. The bank is hard sand, covered with a thin stratum of black mud; and as there are 8 fathoms on its steep edge, and 11 fathoms very near, it ought not to be approached under 11 or 10 fathoms, with the lead kept going. To avoid it, in day-light; the Fourth Point should not be brought to the Eastward of S. E. by S. or S. E. ½ S., nor should the point be passed nearer than 3 miles; when to the westward of the point, a ship ought to keep at least 4 miles from the shore. Off Palamban River, it is high water at 8 hours on full and change of the moon, rise of tide 7 or 8 feet.

Geo. Site of Batacarang point.

BATACARANG POINT, in lat. 2° 0′ S., lon. 104° 53′ E., bearing N. W. by W. 11 or 11½ leagues from the Fourth Point, is surrounded by shoals, stretching out about 2 leagues, and known by a clump of trees which gives it a bluff appearance; the False Point is more sloping and flat, and lies about 6 or 7 miles farther southward, between which, and the Fourth Point, the land forms a deep concavity, where the branches of Palamban River disembogue into the strait. Salsee River, situated nearest to the Fourth Point, is the easternmost branch, the next is generally called False River, the third Palamban River, and the westernmost Salt River. These rivers have inside, from 3 to 8 or 10 fathoms; and 1½ or 2

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fathoms outside, in the channels through the bank that fronts them. During the rainy season, large drifts are brought down these rivers by the freshes, which then set strong over toward the West end of Banca; and as the flood sets strong into them, on the springs, great care is requisite in this part of the strait, to avoid being driven too near either shore, both sides being fronted by dangers. PALAMBAN TOWN is about 14 leagues up the river, where the chief trade is tin, procured from the Island Banca, with some pepper, and rattans, the produce of Sumatra.

Small ships, or vessels, passing through Banca Strait, or Gaspar Straits, should be always on their guard, to repel any attack from the piratical proas, which often lurk about the strait to surprise defenceless vessels.

Geo. Site of Monopin Hill.

Mintow Town and Bank.

Directions.

MONOPIN, or MANOOMBING HILL, in lat. 2° 0′ S., lon. 105° 14′ E., by mean of chronometers from Batavia and Pulo Aor, is situated on the West end of Banca; and its summit ending in a peak, which may be seen at a considerable distance, answers as a guide in approaching to, or departing from the North end of the Strait. About 2 leagues S. 35° W. from the hill, is situated Tanjong Colean, or Mintow Point, the western extremity of Banca, having a fort on it; and the town of Mintow is a little farther eastward. Mintow Bank is composed of hard sand, with soundings from 2 or 3, to 5 fathoms, and it extends a considerable way, nearly parallel to the coast; inside of it there are 10 and 12 fathoms, decreasing regularly toward the shore, where ships anchor in Mintow Road. A ship working through the strait, to keep clear of the outside of Mintow Bank, should not bring Mintow Point to the westward of N. W. by N.

Carang Bram Shoal.

CARANG BRAM, an extensive shoal of rocks and sand, dry in some places, forms the, eastern extremity of Mintow Bank, and lies 4 or 5 miles from the shore, off a point of Banca, called Tanjong Pooni; and this shoal when on with the Peak of Monopin Hill, bears N. 39° W.

Amelia's Bank.

AMELIA'S BANK, of 3¼ fathoms, hard ground, lies about 1½ or 2 miles outside of Carang Bram Shoal, on which the Walmer Castle grounded, and the Princess Amelia touched, when homeward-bound from China, in 1816: Monopin Hill bears from it N. by W. ¾ W., and the eastern extreme of Carang Bram Shoal, E. ¼ N., distant 2½ miles, according to a plan of it, by Capt. Balston, of the last mentioned ship. The Hope passed inside, between it and Carang Bram, in soundings from 5, to 10 and 12 fathoms: the depths increased gradually from 4½, to 7, 8, and 10 fathoms in a westerly direction from it; and to the southward of it, at the distance of about ½ a mile, the Warley carried regular soundings of 8 and 9 fathoms, and it ought not to be approached under 7 or 8 fathoms.

The Bridgwater, at 4 P. M., January 19th, 1818, grounded on the Amelia's Bank, Monopin Hill bearing N. 20° W,, Woody Point N. 43° E., Carang Bram Rocks N. 80° E., extremes of Banca from N. 40° W. to N. 68° E. Found the least water 19 feet, under the larboard fore-chains, and deepest to the S. S. E., in which direction laid out two kedge anchors, and at 11 P. M., when the tide began to flow strong to the eastward, the water rose, and at 1 A. M. the ship floated off the bank.

Carang Hodjee.

CARANG HODJEE, is another dangerous shoal, close to the West end of Mintow Bank, and its outer part is distant 5 or 6 miles from Mintow Point, being in one with Monopin Peak bearing from N. E. ½ N. to N. E. ¾ E., and it is very extensive. The rocks on it are all covered at high water, but many of them are visible at ½ tide; close to it on the North and West sides, the depths are irregular, from 16 to 30 fathoms. From Tanjong Colean, or Mintow Point, the northern rock of Carang Hodjee bears W. ¼ S., distant 2 miles; other rocks on the shoal, bear W. by S. to W. S. W. from the same point.

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To sail into Mintow Road.

TO SAIL into MINTOW ROAD, you may pass on either side of Carang Hodjee; if on the East side, Monopin Peak must be brought N. N. E., and with this bearing, steer for Mintow Town, which will carry you about a mile or more to the southward of Carang Hodjee, in about 5 or 6 fathoms hard sand, upon Mintow Bank.* When over it, the water will deepen to 12 or 13 fathoms, and shoal again quickly toward the inner bank and the shore; the best anchorage is in 10 or 11 fathoms, about 2 or 3 miles off the town, Monopin Peak bearing N. 10° E., Tanjong Pooni S. 75° E., and Mintow Point N. 82° W. No ship can pass over Mintow Bank with safety, if the hill bear to the westward of North, for on the eastern part, toward Carang Bram, it dries in many places. With the hill bearing North, a ship steering for Mintow Road, will cross over the bank in about 3 or 3¼ fathoms at low water spring tides, the bottom hard sand, coral, and shells. With a working wind, keep the hill between North and N. N. E. The Inner Bank is about 1¼ mile off the shore of Mintow, having only 1 fathom water on it, 2 fathoms inside, and 8 fathoms is close to it on the outside.

If a ship coming from the northward, intend to enter Mintow Road on that side of Carang Hodjee, she ought to bring Monopin Peak E. N. E., which will carry her between Frederic Hendric and Carang Hodjee; and she may pass betwixt the latter and Banca, in a channel about 1½ mile wide, in 18 to 15 fathoms water, borrowing toward the Banca shore, but not under 8 or 9 fathoms. Carang Hodjee must be avoided, for it is steep to, with overfalls near it, and rocky ground, from 16 to 30 fathoms. She may pass Mintow Point within ½ a cable's length, then haul out to a convenient distance from the shore, and proceed to the anchorage abreast the town.

Coast and dangers to the northward of Mintow Point.

TANJONG OULAR, is a point about 5 or 6 miles to the northward of Mintow Point, having rocks projecting 3 or 4 miles from it, the outermost of which, are on with Monopin tow Point. Peak bearing S. 70° E.

Inner Channel.

Tanjong Beeat, a little farther northward, has also dangerous reefs of rocks projecting about 4 miles out; when on with Monopin Peak, the outermost of these bears S. 28° E. Betwixt these rocks, and the others called Frederic Hendric, situated about 3½ leagues off the Banca shore, there is a channel near 2 leagues wide, which is seldom frequented except by country traders; and it ought not to be chosen by strangers, for the number and true positions of the Frederic Hendric Rocks are not correctly known. A vessel to proceed by it, should not come under 14 fathoms toward Banca, nor stand farther out than to bring the easternmost land in sight, called Poonyabang, and appearing like an island, to bear N. E.½ E.; with this bearing, and Monopin Hill about S. 70° E., a ship will have 18 fathoms hard sand and overfalls, near Frederic Hendric.

Frederic Hendric Rocks.

FREDERIC HENDRIC, has generally been considered a single rock, situated nearly mid-way between the West end of Banca and Batacarang Point, but there is great cause to think, that several spiral rocks, separated from each other, exist in that situation, which have been mistaken for one and the same rock; this will be perceived by the following remarks.

The Nonsuch, July 29th, 1789, after tacking in 5 fathoms on the edge of the bank off Batacarang Point, stood E. ½ S. to 12 fathoms, then tacked in 11 fathoms, and immediately grounded, Monopin Hill bearing E. 13° S., off the Banca shore 3 or 3½ leagues, and about 4 leagues from the Sumatra shore. Under the bowsprit, had only 1½ fathom, and 5 fathoms abaft. The tide flowing, she got off, after being lightened forward. The rock on which she grounded, was thought to be the true Frederic Hendric. Farther to the northward, she had

* The Mintow Bank is said to be filling up, for in August, 1816, the Surat Castle, in crossing it with Monopin Hill bearing N. N. E., had only 4 and ¼ less 4 fathoms; and with the Hill bearing the same, at leaving Mintow Road, she had two casts of only 3¼ fathoms, in crossing the bank; where formerly 5 and 6 fathoms were found.

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previously tacked in overfalls, from 74 to 12 fathoms bard ground, on the same side of the channel.

The Charlotte, in 1786, explored another shoal, of considerable extent, thought to be Frederic Hendric, with soundings on it from 2 to 5 fathoms, rocks and sand. The boat at anchor in 1½. fathom on the shoalest part, had Monopin Peak bearing E. 23° S., southernmost extreme of Banca S. 18° E., extreme of the Little Caramanaches N. 43° E., northern extreme of the land E. 35° N., the westernmost island N. 38° E., and a bluff rock near the shore E. 18° S.

The Cæsar anchored in 16 fathoms, had 10 fathoms after veering out cable, and at ½ a cable's length from her, the boat had 2¾. fathoms, Monopin Hill bearing E. S. E. 4 leagues.

A Portuguese ship aground, had the West point of Banca E. S. E., and a point on Sumatra W. ½ N., thought to be Batacarang Point.

Capt. Waterman, of the ship Volunteer, went in his boat to examine Frederic Hendric Rocks in July, 1813, where be perceived white water, but the current setting strong into the strait, carried him past the North part of the shoal. When upon the South part of it, in 3 fathoms bard sand, Monopin Hill bore E. 13° S., Mintow Point E. 35° S., high trees of Batacarang Point W. 10° S., and at the distance of a ship's length, had 19 fathoms. That part of the shoal where he sounded was very white hard sand, which discoloured the water by the current running over it, as the white water extended out to 17 fathoms, at a considerable distance from the shoal. This navigator thinks the shoal is not above 6 miles distant from the nearest part of Sumatra, and that no ship should deepen above 10 or 11 fathoms, as the water deepens very suddenly from 12 fathoms, which is near the steep edge of the shoal.

Another navigator says, that Frederic Hendric Rock is in one with Monopin Peak bearing E. 20° S., and distant 3½ leagues from Banca. It is generally thought, that 8 or 9 feet is the least water on this rock, but some persons assert, that its summit appears above water at times, when the tide is very low. This may probably happen, as the perpendicular rise and fall of tide is about 2 fathoms on the springs; notwithstanding, navigators in passing, seldom discern it, or perceive breakers upon any of these dangers, which go by the name of Frederic Hendric. To avoid them, ships passing through the fair channel, ought to keep in 6 or 7 fathoms, on the edge of Batacarang Bank, and never deepen to the eastward above 9 fathoms, when Monopin Hill bears from East to E. S. E. ¼ S.

and proceed from the Fourth Point out of the Strait.

A SHIP bound out of the strait, having passed the Fourth Point at 3 or 4 miles distance, in soundings 11 or 12, but not under 10 fathoms, should steer about N.W. by W. for Batacarang Point, attending to the tides, which sometimes run strong into, or out of Palamban rivers. The banks fronting these rivers should not be approached under 10 fathoms, nor ought a ship to deepen above 12 or 14 fathoms toward Carang Bram, and Mintow Bank, on the Banca side. In the fair track, there are some small sandy spots, which might alarm strangers, or be mistaken for the shoals on the Banca side, should a ship get upon them in the night; but the least water on any of them is 6 fathoms. When abreast of an island at the entrance of the False River, with a passage on each side of it appearing open, a cast of 6 fathoms may probably be got upon one of these spots. Another patch with 7 fathoms, bears nearly S. ½ W., distant about 6 miles from Mintow Point. When on another 7 fathoms bank, Monopin Hill bore N. 20° W., and the Fourth Point S.W. ½ S., distant about 2 leagues. From another bank of 9 fathoms, Monopin Hill bears N. by W. ½ W., and the Fourth Point S. by W. about 6 miles. The best track is about mid-way between the Banca and Sumatra shores, or rather nearest to the latter, during the night, where the bank fronting the coast is safe to approach to 9 or 10 fathoms, if the lead is kept briskly going.

Steering about N.W. by W. for Batacarang Point, the depths will probably increase to 15 or 16 fathoms to the S. Westward of Mintow Point, and decrease as the western shore and Batacarang Point is approached. Before Monopin Hill is brought to bear East, a ship ought

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to borrow toward the edge of the Sumatra Bank, to 8 or 9 fathoms, and when the hill bears between E. by S. and E. S. E. ¼ S., she must keep as near as possible in 6½ and 7 fathoms mud, on the edge of the bank projecting from Batacarang Point, in order to avoid the Frederic Hendric Rocks. With a working wind, a ship should not deepen above 7½ or 8 fathoms, toward these rocks; but she may stand on the western tack, to 5 fathoms on the edge of Batacarang Bank. The channel here, is about 4 or 5 miles wide, and if a ship deepen to 10 fathoms, she will be very near the Frederic Hendric Rocks. Having brought Monopin Hill to bear E. S. E. ½ S., she will be clear of these rocks, and of the North end of Banca Strait, and may steer about N. by E. to pass between the Seven Islands and Pulo Taya, (which are high islands), if bound into the China Sea.

Tides.

When northerly winds blow from the China Sea, from October to February, the current or flood frequently sets strong to the S. E. into the North entrance of Banca Strait, for 18 hours at a time; and in the same direction to the eastward of the island of Banca. When S. E. winds prevail, the ebb generally runs strong out of the strait, continuing longer than the flood; although the Volunteer, in July, 1813, worked into the entrance of the strait with a strong current setting to the southward. In settled weather, there are two floods and two ebbs every 24 hours, but they are greatly influenced by the winds.

DIRECTIONS to SAIL from the NORTHWARD, through the STRAITS of BANCA and SUNDA.

To enter Banca Strait from the northward and to

WHEN BOUND from the NORTHWARD to BANCA STRAIT, haul in for the Sumatra Coast into 6 or 7 fathoms mud, on the edge of the bank fronting Batacarang Point, before Monopin Hill is brought to bear E. S. E. ½ S.; preserve that depth, or keep from 5½ to 7 fathoms if the wind be westerly, until the hill bear about East, which will carry you well to the westward of Frederic Hendric Rocks: steer then about S. S. E. for 4 or 5 miles, till abreast of Carang Hodjee Shoal, afterward S. E. to E. S. E., or as the tides render necessary, to pass in mid-channel; because, the flood running into Palamban rivers, may drift you on the banks projecting 3 or 4 miles from them, if too near the Sumatra shore; or the strong freshes from them at other times, may set you over toward the shoals adjacent to Banca. It is, therefore, imprudent for strangers to run in the night, unless the weather be very clear, and the land visible.

proceed in the Fourth and Third Points, and to the Nanka Islands

After leaving the bank off Batacarang Point, the depths will increase, and from 10 to 12 fathoms, are the best depths to preserve in passing the bank off Palamban rivers, and the Fourth Point. The bank to the westward of this point, being steep from 8 to 2 fathoms, it must not be approached under 10 fathoms, and the point having a mud bank projecting 3 miles from it, should be passed at 4, to 5 or 6 miles distance, in 10 or 12 fathoms, steer then about E. 2 ½ S. for the Third Point, in 10 to 14 fathoms, not coming under 10 fathoms toward the bank fronting the Sumatra shore, or about 3 miles distance; and do not stand farther off than 6 or 7 miles. The Third Point may be passed at 2 or 3 miles distance, in 10 or 11 fathoms; from thence, an easterly course should be steered toward the Nanka Islands, for the deep bight betwixt the Third and Second Points being occupied by an extensive flat, projecting about 4 miles off, you ought to keep about mid-channel in this part, or 6 miles distant from the Sumatra shore.

WHEN near the NANKA ISLANDS, a southerly course should be steered for the Second Point, known by a tree near it, very conspicuous above the others; the depths will be

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From thence to the Second and first Points.

from 16 to 20 fathoms in this track, and the Second Point ought to be passed at 3 or 4 miles distance. From hence to the First Point, the best track is not to stand above ½ or 2/3 channel over toward Banca, to avoid the overfalls and dangers on that side; from 12 to 18 fathoms are the best depths to preserve, keeping within 5 or 6 miles of the Sumatra shore, and not borrowing nearer it than 3 miles.

To sail from it, through the Lucepara Passage,

The First Point should not be rounded nearer than 2½ or 3 miles, in 10 to 12 fathoms, and after passing it, the Island Lucepara will be seen to the S. Eastward. From the First Point, a southerly course must be steered, keeping at least 3 miles, but not more than 4 or 4½ miles from the Sumatra shore, in 6 to 7 fathoms soft ground, until 4 or 5 miles southward of the point; for the mud spit to the South of the First Point, projects at least 2 or 2¼ miles, having 5½ fathoms close to its edge. Having proceeded about 2 leagues to the southward of the point, or before Lucepara is brought to bear S. 50° E.; borrow on the Sumatra shore to 3 miles distance, to give a birth to the western extremity of the dangers in the offing. This is best effected by bringing the First Point to bear N. by W. ½ W., or if Parmasang Hills are visible, keep the point on with their western extremity; when Lucepara is brought to bear about S. 54° E., the highest hill may be brought on with the First Point, and continued so, until the island bears about S. 60° E. Being then clear of the western extremity of the shoals in the offing, steer to the southward with the First Point bearing about N. by W. ½ W., in one with the western extremity of Parmasang Hills, keeping about 3 miles off the coast until Lucepara bear about East; you may then edge out from the coast to the S. Eastward, to deepen the water, and the island may be approached within 2 or 3 miles if necessary; when it is brought to bear North, at 3 or 4 leagues distance, you will be clear of the strait, and have 5½ or 6 fathoms water. When to the N. Westward of the island, if hard soundings are got toward the shoals adjacent to Lucepara, haul to the westward into soft ground, in the fair channel. With a working wind, from 4½ or 5 fathoms on the Sumatra side, to 6 or 7 fathoms toward the shoals, are good soundings, and do not open the First Point with the West end of Parmasang Hills, nor bring the point to bear N. N. W. till Lucepara bears S. E. by E. ½ E.*

Proceeding from the First Point, through this narrow part of the strait, it is advisable for persons unacquainted, to keep a boat a-head sounding along the edge of the mud bank that lines the coast, the channel being only about 2 miles wide between it and the western extremity of the shoals in the offing, and so flat to the West and W. N. Westward of Lucepara, that ships seldom find more than 5, and sometimes only 4½ or 4¾ fathoms, in the fair track. By keeping a boat sounding in 4 and 4¼ fathoms on the edge of the mud bank, a ship will be enabled to pass through in the proper channel, when other marks are not always discernible. It is necessary when off the First Point, to borrow on the Sumatra side, for the ebb tide here, sets strong to the E. S. E., and a strong current sets in this direction out of the strait, in the latter part of the N. E. monsoon, from February to April, liable to horse a ship among the shoals to the N. W. of Lucepara.

and from thence to the Two Brothers.

AFTER bringing LUCEPARA to bear about N. by W. ½ W., distant 5 leagues, the depth will increase to 6 or 6½ fathoms, and from thence steer S. S. E. and S. by E. to avoid the shoal banks off Tree Island. As the currents are sometimes irregular, the course cannot be always depended upon, neither are the soundings very regular, for there is a 5 fathoms bank about 10 leagues S. S. Eastward of Lucepara, which some ships have mistaken in the night for the bank adjacent to the coast. In day-light, you may borrow toward the Sumatra Bank to 9 fathoms, occasionally getting a sight of the land; if the depths decrease under 9 fathoms, haul more out, and endeavour to keep in 10 or 11 fathoms, night or day; and should they increase to 12 fathoms, edge in toward the coast until you regain the depth of 10 or 11 fathoms.

* Brief Directions for the Lucepara Passage have been given in a preceding page.

VOL. II. S

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Having got into about lat. 4° 40′ S., or being within 8 or 10 leagues of the Two Brothers, keep as near as possible in 9 to 10 fathoms, in order to make these islands bearing to the southward; for if the depth is more than 11 fathoms when they are first seen, you may find difficulty in passing to the westward of them with a westerly wind; more so, as the current generally sets to the S. Eastward during the westerly monsoon. Should you get in 11 fathoms or upward, and fall to leeward of the Two Brothers, be careful to give a birth to the Brouwer's Shoals, situated to the E. N. Eastward of these islands. And if you fall in with the North Watcher, take care in working to the S. Westward, to avoid the Jason Rock, or other dangers, described in a preceding section, where directions are given for sailing from Batavia and Sunda Strait, to the Strait of Banca.

Or to Batavia.

Caution requisite in approaching

SHIPS from BANCA STRAIT, bound to Batavia, after falling in with the North Watcher, generally steer for the South Watcher, giving a birth to the Thousand Islands in passing; and from the South Watcher, they steer direct for Batavia Road. The dangers in this track may be avoided, by attending to the directions above mentioned, The Two Brothers appear in one when viewed from the northward, and may be seen 6 or 7 leagues; some ships have nearly run into danger by mistaking Knob Hill on Sumatra for the Two Brothers, when discerned in the evening at a great distance; it is therefore, proper, to have a good sight of them, if they are to be passed in the night: and if not plainly seen before dark, it will be prudent to anchor, or keep standing off, and on, during the night, for the Shahbunder Shoal to the westward of these islands, extends a great way from the coast, and is dangerous to approach.

or passing the Two Brothers.

To sail from thence to Island.

If bound to Sunda Strait, by keeping sight of the coast at times, in clear weather, and preserving the depth of 9 or 9½ fathoms, on drawing near the Two Brothers, steer to pass on the West side of them, at from 1 to 3 miles distance, observing not to borrow under 9 fathoms toward the Shahbunder, or other shoals fronting the coast, nor to exceed the distance of 3 miles from the Two Brothers in passing. Should you pass them on the outside, keep within 2, or at most 3 miles of them, until they bear to the eastward of North, by which means the Brouwer's Shoals, Lynn Shoal, and Dolphin Rock, will be avoided. Having passed the Two Brothers, a South westerly course should be steered, to get in with the coast about North Island; which, with the high Zutphen Island, will be seen soon after losing sight of the Two Brothers, if the weather is clear. Betwixt the latter and North Island, you may stand toward the Sumatra shore to 8 fathoms, with a working wind; in day-light, a good mark is to tack when North Island comes on with the High Zutphen Island, you will then generally have 7½ or 8 fathoms soft ground.

Route along the Java Coast disused.

From North Island, ships used formerly to steer over for St. Nicholas Point, and then along the Java Coast inside of the Button, which route is now disused, being circuitous, and the leeward side of the strait in the westerly monsoon; but during the easterly monsoon, ships ought to prefer the Java side,* and pass out of the strait between Prince's Island and Crockatoa, if they do not intend to stop for a supply of water at Mew Bay: in such case, they may go out of the strait betwixt Prince's Island and Java.

To proceed from North Island,

If bound out in the westerly monsoon, give a birth of 1 mile to the islet and spit at the Island, South-east end of North Island, and if not to stop to fill up your water at the Three Sisters, stand along the coast, keeping about 2 miles off shore, until the Zutphen Islands are approached, and anchor in Hound's Bay, at the North part of these islands, if the day is far gone. From hence, weigh early in the morning, and although the wind be scant, you will probably reach good anchorage under Pulo Bessy, or Crockatna, before the tide shift; which

* But it is advisable not to stop at Anger Road in April, or even in May, with the hope of procuring water, as the surf is often high in these months, and the Company's ship, Charles Grant, was driven on shore, April 10th, 1826, and nearly wrecked, after having parted from all her anchors.

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in this season, generally sets to the southward and S.W., from 4 o'clock in the morning until the evening, and sometimes to the N. E., or northward, during the night.

Having weighed from Hound's Bay, or being near the northernmost Zutphen Island at daylight, pass it at 1½ mile distant, and with the land wind, steer to pass the S. E. island, called lout's Island, at the distance of 1½, or not under 1¼ mile.

The indraughts between these islands, produce strong eddies, which render ships ungovernable at times, when the wind is light, and in February and March, the current or tide, sweeps round them to the S.W. and W. S.W., until past Hog Point, with a velocity of 4 and 4½ miles per hour on the springs; this makes it necessary not to borrow too close in rounding Hout Island, to prevent being drifted upon the reef that projects a little way from it, where the Bombay was nearly wrecked.

Round the Zutphen Islands,

and Hog Point,

to Rajah Bassa Road.

When past Hout Island, or when it bears W. N.W., steer to the W. S. Westward, so as to round Hog Point at 1½ or 2 miles distance, where you will have strong ripplings, but no danger to be apprehended in the day time. Having rounded the rock off Hog Point, when it bears North, haul up W. N.W., and gradually to N.W., if you intend to touch at Rajah Bassa Road for water or refreshments, giving a birth to Collier's Rock, by keeping 2 or 3 miles off shore as you get to the northward. If the wind be at North, or off the land, haul nearer to the shore, but you will not get moderate depths until within 3 or 4 miles of Cocoanut Point, and you may. round it in 12 to 18 fathoms, at 1½ to 2 miles distance, then haul up N. N.W. and N. by W. for Rajah Bassa Road, and anchor with the peak E. N. E. or E. N. E. ½ N., in from 12 to 14 fathoms blue mud, off shore 1½ or 2 miles.

After getting 4 miles to the northward of Hog Point, a ship in working, may safely stand in to 12, and off shore to 20 fathoms.

The boats proceeding to Rajah Bassa for water, will perceive a hut at a small distance to the right of the river, which should be kept on the starboard bow, in order to pass in, clear of the projecting coral rocks.

To sail from Hog Point.

After rounding the Zutphen Islands and Hog Point, if not to touch at Rajah Bassa, steer Pulo Bessy, making an allowance for the tide, which generally sets over toward Java, in this season; and as the wind prevails from westward, ships are frequently obliged to work from the Zutphen Islands out of the strait: nevertheless, if they round these islands in the morning, they generally get close to Pulo Bessy or Crockatoa, into good anchorage, before the tide shifts. The passage between the Zutphen Islands and Stroom Rock, should not be attempted in the night, as the strong tides are liable to horse a ship toward the latter, and Thwart-the-way; where deep water, and rocky bottom, render the anchorage very unsafe.

Between Pulo Bessy and Crockatoa.

In blowing weather, a ship may anchor under Crockatoa, where she will be sheltered from westerly winds: or having approached Pulo Bessy, the channel between it and Crockatoa ought to be preferred to that betwixt the latter and Prince's Island, because there is good anchorage, should calms or contrary currents make it necessary to anchor, which cannot be done in the channel to the southward of Crockatoa.

Out of Sunda Strait.

With a fair wind, keep nearly in mid-channel, and if working through with a westerly wind, stand within 2½ miles of the islands on either side, but not nearer to the South end of Pulo Bessy than 2 miles, in order to avoid the Hindostan Rock; taking care not to bring Zee Klip, or Gap Rock, open to the southward of Keyser's Island, as directed in the section, marked "Strait of Sunda, "with farther instructions relative to these channels, under the descriptions of their adjacent islands. When clear of Crockatoa, steer about West, which will carry you directly out of the strait, if the wind be favorable. With a westerly wind, make some short tacks toward the coast of Sumatra, borrowing on that side of the strait until you can pass clear out, well to the northward of Prince's Island; and when clear of it, steer S. Westward, to round Java Head, if bound to Europe, or to the Cape of Good Hope.

When strong winds blow into the strait with a heavy sea, it is difficult, and sometimes impossible, to beat out to the westward, by the large channels to the North of Princes

S 2

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Island; although at such times, little difficulty has been experienced, by several ships which have proceeded out through Prince's Strait, as Prince's Island protected them from the heavy sea until they cleared, the strait. But the entrance of the strait should be kept open, until a ship get a proper offing, to prevent the heavy swell from driving her near the steep shore of Java Head, if the wind should happen to fail.

GASPAR STRAITS, with SAILING DIRECTIONS; N. E. COAST of BANCA.

Gaspar Straits.

GASPAR STRAITS, formed between the large islands Banca and Billiton, were named after the Spanish captain from Manilla, who passed through them in 1724; but Captain Hurle, returning from China in the English ship, Macclesfield, had previously passed through them, in March, 1702. Pulo Leat, separates these straits into two principal branches; that to the westward, betwixt it and the S. E. part of Banca, is often called MACCLESFIELD STRAIT; and the eastern branch, situated betwixt Middle Island, and Long Island, near Billiton, is generally called CLEMENTS' STRAIT, after Captain Clements, who commanded the fleet from China, that went through this branch in July, 1781.

Many navigators, now prefer these straits to that of Banca, when returning from China late in the season, as the route by them is shorter, and the water much deeper than in the Lucepara Channel, with generally more wind. Were it not for many dangerous shoals near the water's edge, which are interspersed about these straits, they would be preferable at all times to Banca Strait; and there is sometimes less risk of small vessels encountering pirates in these straits, than to the westward of Banca.

Macclesfield Strait.

Geo. Site of Entrance Point, with directions.

MACCLESFIELD STRAIT, being wider and better known than Clements' Strait, is more frequented than the latter, by ships that proceed to the eastward of Banca. The South entrance is bounded on the West side by the S. E. point of Banca, called ENTRANCE POINT, situated in lat. 3° 2′ S., lon. 106° 54′ E., or 2 miles East from Batavia by chronometers, and bearing from the Two Brothers N. 21° E., distant 46 leagues. If bound through Macclesfield Strait, in the southerly monsoon, pass to the eastward of the Two Brothers, then steer for the strait, giving a birth to the Brouwer's Shoals: the soundings will generally be regular in the fair track, from 10 to 15 fathoms soft bottom. The South end of Banca, having great overfalls from 20 to 5 fathoms off it in some places, should not be approached nearer than 4½ leagues; for there is a 4½ fathoms bank in lat. 3° 19′ S., distant about 13 miles from the nearest part of Banca, and bearing South from a remarkable hummock. About 3 leagues N. N. E. and N. Eastward from this bank, there are two 5 fathoms banks, one of which bears from Entrance Point S.W. by S., and the southernmost S. 15° W.: the remarkable hummock, standing upon a long low point of Banca, when clear of the high land bearing N. 25° W., is a mark for both these banks. To avoid them, and the other shoal banks off this coast, keep the low land of Banca which joins the hills, sunk from the deck until Entrance Point bears N. by E.; then steer to the N. N. Eastward for the strait, observing not to bring Entrance Point to the eastward of N. by E., or N. ½ E. The Royal George, in March, 1813, steering out of the strait S.W. by W., shoaled gradually to 5¼ fathoms, then tacked to the eastward with Entrance Point bearing N. by W., Rocky Point N. ½ W., and the West point of Pulo Leat N. 20° E.

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Geo. Site of Fairlie Rock.

FAIRLIE ROCK, in lat. 3° 27′ S., lon. 107° 1′ E., bearing about S. by E.½ E., 8½ or 9 leagues from Entrance Point, or 7 miles East of the Point, is the southernmost danger on the East side of the passage, in approaching the strait from S. Westward. This danger was discovered by the company's ship Fairlie, at 1 A. M., April 21st, 1813, when she grounded on it; and on examination, it was found to be a coral shoal about ½or ¾ of a cable's length in diameter, with only 6, 5, and 4 feet water on its centre, and overfalls of 7 fathoms to 16 fathoms rocky bottom, close to it all round.

When at anchor in 62 fathoms at day-light, very near the rock bearing from S. S.W. to S.W., the southernmost extreme of Banca bore N. by W.½ W., and Shoal Water Island N. E. by E., just in sight from the deck.

This rock was also examined by Capt. Ross, in the company's surveying ship, Discovery, July 5th, 1814, who found 8, 9, and 12 fathoms water within 50 yards of it, decreasing to 7½ fathoms at the distance of ¾ a mile to the S. S. Westward; the ground was soft about the rock, but sandy at a little distance all round, and the sea shewed small breakers over it at this time.

When at anchor in 7¼ fathoms, about ¾ mile from the breakers, bearing N. 25° E., Shoal Water Island bore N. 56¾° E., and by observations at noon, with four sextants, made the rock in lat. 3° 27′13″ S., lon. 107° 2′ 53″ E., or 9′ 3″ East of the Island Edam, by mean of five chronometers agreeing within a few seconds of longitude.

To avoid this danger, in leaving Macclesfield Strait in the evening, when clear of the 2½ fathoms bank, a S. ½ W., or S. by W. course ought to be made good, till at least 10 leagues past Entrance Point (for in April the current was found to set to the eastward), taking care to sink Shoal Water Island from the deck of a large ship by the time it bears N. E. by E., it being the only land distinctly seen from the Fairlie Rock.

Two &Half Fathoms Bank.

TWO AND HALF FATHOMS BANK, discovered by Capt. Ross, and bearing South 6 or 6½ miles from Entrance Point, is much in the way of ships approaching from the southward in thick weather, and other patches of 5 and 6 fathoms, lie near it to the N. Westward. The channel is about 7 or 8 miles wide between the Two and Half Fathoms Bank and the Vansittart's Shoals; and the soundings decrease to 9, 8, and 7 fathoms close to the former, and deepen to 20 or 24 fathoms on the eastern side near to the Vansittart's Shoals.

Vansittart's Shoals.

VANSITTART'S SHOALS, situated about 4 leagues E. S. Eastward from Entrance Point (together with the last mentioned danger), render the approach to the strait very dangerous in thick weather, for although the sea breaks on several of them at low water, they are not visible when the tide is high. They consist of nine or ten different patches, stretching from lat. 3° 4′ to 3° 10½″ S., and are 4 or 4½ miles in breadth at the South part, where at the S. E. extremity, one of the patches is dry at ½ ebb. Sandy Island on with the eastern extreme of Pulo Leat, and the south points of South and Saddle Islands touching, is on the N. E. extremity of these shoals. To the eastward and southward of them, the soundings are irregular from 10 to 20 fathoms; on the West side, the depths near them are generally from 22 to 28 fathoms, decreasing toward Banca, the bottom mostly coarse sand, shells, and stones. For marks to avoid these shoals, it may be useful to describe briefly, the adjacent islands.

PULO PONGOH, (vulgo) PULO LEAT, or Middle Island, extending from lat. 2° 49′ to 2° 54¾′ S., is the principal island which separates Macclesfield Strait from Clements' Strait, and has several hills upon it, making it appear like different islands when first seen, and it is of considerable size, encircled by reefs; of which the following is most in the way of ships.

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Alceste Rock.

Coral spits near Pulo Leat.

ALCESTE ROCK, upon which H. M. S. of this name struck and was wrecked, about 7 A. M. February 18th, 1817, when returning from China with Lord Amherst and suite on board, is a small coral shoal, with about 2 fathoms water on its shoalest part at low tide, from which part the West side of Gaspar Island bore N. 8° E., North end of Pulo Leat S. 40° E., and Saddle Island,* or the small island at the West part of Pub Leat S. 5° W., distance from the nearest part of Pub Leat between 3 and 4 miles. This dangerous rock has close to it 17 and 18 fathoms water, which are the usual depths to the Northward between it and Gaspar Island, and although it lies in the hitherto supposed fair track of ships steering down on the East side of that island for Macclesfield Strait, yet to the officers of the Alceste, it appeared to be only the outer or N. Westernmost patch of the coral spits which project far out from the N. and N.W. parts of Pulo Leat, having gaps of deep water between some of them.

This discovery of the Alceste Rock, at the North part of Macclesfield Strait, and the coral spits having been found to project much further out from Pub Leat than formerly supposed, together with Discovery Rock, situated nearly in the middle of the strait, renders great caution indispensable here; and it is not improbable, that other sunken rocks may exist about these straits yet undiscovered. †

Directions to enter Macclesfield Strait from the Northward.

Ships coming from the North towards Macclesfield Strait, when N.W. winds prevail, and strong S. E. currents, setting through between Gaspar Island and Pulo Leat, in January, February, and March, should, if they do not pass on the West side of Gaspar Island, borrow near its Eastern side, and after rounding it, haul in to the westward for Tanjong Brekat, in order to counteract the S. E. current, and give a birth to the Alceste Rock: therefore, do not approach the North part of Pulo Leat within 4 or 5 miles until the small island at its western extremity is bearing to the Eastward of South, and keep it so, in steering southward for the narrow part of the strait, formed by Discovery Rock to the West, and the small island off Pulo Leat to the Eastward, the latter of which may be passed at the distance of 1½ or 2 miles.

S. E. end of Banca, is a separate Island.

The S. E. projection of the island of Banca, called Entrance Point, and Rocky Point, which forms the western boundary of Macclesfield Strait, was explored by Lieut. Robinson, when Master Attendant of Banca, and found to be an island called by the Malays Pulo Lepa, separated from Banca by a small channel navigable for boats.

Islands contiguous to the straits.

LONG ISLAND about 6 leagues to the eastward of Middle Island, and contiguous to the West coast of Billiton, bounds Clements' Strait on the East side; it is of considerable extent, with several islets and dangers around. To the southward of the latter, there is a group of low islands, and another long low island close to the S.W. end of Billiton. The other islands which lie to the S. Eastward of Middle Island, form the South entrance of Clements' Strait, and have been named from their situation and aspect as follows. Sandy Island, about 5 miles S. by E. from the South-east end of Middle Island, is small and low, and about 1½ mile E. by N. from it, lies Barn Island. South Island, about 6 miles E. by S. from Barn Island, is in lat. 3° 0′ S., and North Island bears from South Island North, about 2 miles. Table Island, bears about E. ½ S., distant 3 miles from South Island. The proper channel into Clements' Strait, is bounded by these three islands on the East side, and by Barn Island and Saddle Island to the westward. Saddle Island, named from two hills on it,

* Called by Capt. Ross, West Island, and by the Malays Pulo Chellaka, i. e. Misfortune Island. The crew of the Alceste remained on Pulo Leat about fourteen days (except the cutter and barge, with Lord Amherst and suite, arrived at Batavia in three days after the loss of the frigate), and were taken off from it by the Ternate, Lieutenant Davidson, sent from Batavia, who had much difficulty in getting into the South entrance of the Strait against strong Southerly currents.

† This has been verified by the late discovery of a dangerous rocky shoal, by the Company's ship Canning, about 3¼ leagues to the Eastward of Gaspar Island.

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is about 3 miles to the S. E. of Barn Island, and 4 miles from South Island, with Low Island about a mile to the westward.

Shoal Water Island.

SHOAL WATER ISLAND, in about lat. 3° 20′ S., are two small islands close together, bearing South westerly, about 7 leagues from South Island; they are surrounded by a shoal, and other shoals project nearly 4 leagues to the southward, with breakers on them, and are partly dry at low water.

To avoid the Vansittart's Shoals,

If bound into Macclesfield Strait from the southward, to avoid the Fairlie Rock, steer for the S. E. part of Bence, and having brought Entrance Point to bear about North, or N. ½ W., steer N. by E. and N. N. E. for the strait, keeping Entrance Point to the westward of N. ½ W. or N. by W. when within 3 leagues of it, to avoid the 2½ fathoms bank; or the highest part of the trees within Rocky Point kept open to the eastward of Entrance Point, leads clear of the 2½ fathoms bank, and also of a 5 fathoms bank, about 2 miles north of it. With a working wind, to avoid Vansittart's Shoals, do not bring Entrance Point to the westward of N.W. ½ N., until the Peak of Saddle Island bears N. E. by E., or by keeping Middle Island a little to the eastward of North, they will be avoided. When near the N.W. part of these shoals, the West end of Middle Island may be brought N. ½ W.; but not more westerly until South Island is open to the northward of Saddle, and Low Islands; with the northern extremes of these, and the South part of South Island in one bearing E. 19° N., is just clear of the northernmost shoals. The S. Eastern extremity of Vansittart's Shoals, bears S.4½° W. from Barn Island, and N. 33° W. from Shoal Water Island. The S. Western extremity of them bears S. 26° W. from Barn Island, and N. 48° W. from Shoal Water Island.

and enter Macclesfield Strait.

Having entered the channel betwixt Entrance Point and these shoals, which is about 3 leagues wide, a course should be steered for the small island at the West point of Middle Island, to avoid the dangers contiguous to the Banca shore. One of these is a bank to the northward of Entrance Point, but the reefs off Rocky Point are most in the way of ships, particularly the following danger situated nearly in mid-channel.

Discovery Rock.

DISCOVERY ROCK, on which a Portuguese ship from Macao was wrecked in 1816, and the Alnwick Castle narrowly escaped, by tacking on the edge of it in 5¾ fathoms, in 1810; but its existence was not exactly known, until Capt. Ross explored it in the company's surveying ship, Discovery, January 18th, 1813, and of which he gives the following description.

I once before passed very near the situation of this rock, without perceiving any indication of danger; but while passing at this time, observed a breaker, at low water spring tide, which on examination, was found to be on a sunken coral rock, in diameter about 30 yards, having only 2 feet water upon it, with perpendicular sides, as within a boat's length of it, there are 7 fathoms water.

Although there was so little water over the rock, and a small swell at this time, yet the sea did not break upon it above once in an hour. The depth about the rock is 20 fathoms but a rocky bank or ridge projects from it to the eastward about a ¼ mile, with 6, 7, 10, and 15 fathoms on its eastern extremity.

From the rock, Entrance Point bears S. 17° W., False Rocky Point (which is situated between the True Rocky Point and Entrance Point) S. 22° 51′ W., Saddle Island S. 59° 36′ E., South point of Pulo Leat or Middle Island S. 80° 46′ E., Highest Tuft of Trees on Pulo Leat N. 89° 39′ E., North end of Pulo Leat N. 59° 39′ E., Hummock over Tanjong Brekat N. 18° 30′ E., and it is distant 4 miles from the small island that lies close to the West, point of Pulo Lear, and 4 miles from Rocky Point.

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Rocky Point.

ROCKY POINT, is about 2 leagues to the northward of Entrance Point,* from which clusters of rocks, with gaps of deep water of 8 and 10 fathoms between them, stretch out to N. Eastward nearly 3 miles; they are of considerable extent, covered at high water, but at low tide, many of the rocks are visible. It is advisable to approach them no nearer than 16 fathoms, for the Warren Hastings struck on one of them with Entrance Point bearing S. S.W., and the North extreme of the three islands to the N.W. of Rocky Point N.W. by W. ½ W., having shoaled from 15 fathoms to 4 fathoms at one cast of the lead.

To pass clear of the reefs off it.

In passing the eastern extremity of these rocks, Entrance Point should not be brought to the southward of S. 31° W., until abreast of the West point of Pulo Leat, where the soundings are generally from 20 to 28 fathoms, if not too near the Discovery Rock, and decreasing to either side. The small island off the West point of Pulo Leat is joined to it by a reef, which should have a birth of 1 or 2 miles in passing, but not more than 2 or 2½ miles, in order to avoid the Discovery Rock; and from the North point of Pulo Leat, a reef projects to the northward, and another to the westward about 1½ mile. A ship will clear the latter, if the West point of the small island contiguous to Pulo Leat, is not brought to the westward of S. 7° W.

Tanjong Brekat;

to avoid the shoal nearit.

TANJONG BREKAT, in lat. 2° 35′ S, a long projecting point with a hummock close over it, is about 7 leagues nearly N. ½ W. from Rocky Point; the coast of Banca between these points, forms a very deep and extensive bay, having in it shoal water and several dangers, with three islands already mentioned, at the southern part. About 4 miles to the S. S. E. of Tanjong Brekat, lies a 3 fathoms bank which must be avoided, and borrow not into the bay, in passing from Pulo Leat to the northward. About 4½ or 5 leagues inland to the westward of Tanjong Brekat, there is a mountain on Banca, very conspicuous, usually called Tanjong Brekat Mountain.

Geo. Site of Gaspar Island.

PULO GLASSA, or GASPAR ISLAND, in lat. 2° 25½′ S., lon. 107° 6′ E., or 14 miles East from Batavia by chronometers, bears North from the East part of Pulo Leat, distant 8 leagues, and lies about 5½ leagues N. E. by E. from Tanjong Brekat. It is the principal mark in sailing to, or from the northern part of these straits, for avoiding the shoals, having a peaked hill on it, that may be seen about 10 leagues. There is a rocky islet with some trees on it, and rocks contiguous, distant about 1½ or 2 miles from the West side of Gaspar Island, which is on with the peak bearing E. 5° S.

Canning's Rock.

Geo. Site.

CANNING'S ROCK, discovered in the company's ship Canning, Capt. P. Baylis, upon which that ship grounded, April 11th, 1825, during her passage homeward from China, is situated in the direct route of ships which proceed through the Straits of Gaspar; therefore, very dangerous for large ships, as there are only 3¼ or 3 fathoms water on its shoalest part. When aground upon the rock, the peak of Gaspar Island bore S. 78° W. distant 9½ or 10 miles; Tanjong Brekat S. 64° W.; Tanjong Brekat Mountain to the westward of Tanjong Brekat S. 74° W.; Long Island S. 23° E.; islet off Long Island S. 16° E.; which makes it in latitude 2° 23′ or 2° 23½′ S., lon. 107° 14′ E. by chronometers. Mr. Smith, the officer sent to examine the extent of the danger, found it to be composed of large patches of coral, extending about 100 yards in a N. E. and S.W. direction, and not more than 50 yards from

* If a ship be in want of fresh water, she may anchor about a mile to the N. E. of Entrance Point, and get water from some of the small rivers in the bight between Entrance Point and Rocky Point, where there are sandy beaches: but an armed boat should be there, ready to protect the watering party, in case of any piratical proas coming round Rocky Point from the westward. Capt. Ross took in water from the creek or small river about 2 miles to the north of Entrance Point, which was a little tinged with a red colour, but produced no pernicious effect.

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East to West, steep to, having from 17 to 20 fathoms water close to its edge all round. When aground, the soundings under the ship's larboard fore chains were 9 fathoms; at the starboard main chains 5¼ fathoms; at the larboard main chains 3¼ fathoms; close under the counter 4 fathoms; and about 20 yards from the larboard quarter 3 fathoms, or 19 feet water, upon a small patch. This danger was not visible from the main top at a ¼ mile distant, and being greatly in the way of ships approaching the Straits of Gaspar from the northward, in thick weather, they ought to endeavour, after passing the latitude of the Magdalen's Shoal, to make Gaspar Island bearing well to the southward, then hauling within 5 or 6 miles, or nearer, before it bears W. S.W., in order to give a wide birth to this recently discovered danger.

Tree Island.

TREE ISLAND,* bearing from Gaspar Peak W. 28° S., distant 7 miles, is a barren rock with two or three trees on its summit, giving it the appearance of a ship under sail, and making it visible about 5 leagues. A reef extends to the North and southward from it about ½ a mile, and a rock about the height of a long boat, lies the same distance from it to the S. Eastward.

Tides.

There appears to be a great rise and fall of tide, sometimes at these islands, for the Vansittart's boat landed at Tree Island, and found a rise of about 3 fathoms perpendicular, between 8 A. M. and 5 P. M.; and it appeared to be high water at 5 or 6 o'clock in the evening, the moon then 1½ day past change. During the strength of the N. E. monsoon, in the China sea, the winds betwixt Banca and the S.W. part of Borneo, generally prevail from N. Westward; and the current sets then along the East coast of Banca through Gaspar Straits to the S. Eastward, sometimes from 2 to 3 miles per hour. In fine weather, and light winds, a kind of tides are experienced in the straits, which are seldom very regular.

To steer from Pulo Leat, through the Strait.

Being in Macclesfield Strait, abreast of the small island at the West point of Pulo Leat, at 1½ to 2½ miles distance, steer about North, observing not to bring Tanjong Brekat to the northward of N. N.W. ½ W., nor to shoal under 14 or 15 fathoms in the entrance of the great bay between it and Rocky Point. When Tree Island is seen, steer to pass to the eastward of Gaspar Island, at any convenient distance from 2 or 3, to 5 miles, but not more than 6 or 7 miles at most, on account of the Canning's Rock, then steer to the northward, observing not to bring Gaspar Island to the eastward of South while it is visible, in order to avoid the following shoals, which render the passage to the westward of these islands rather intricate. The passage to the eastward of Gaspar Island is generally chosen, for, excepting the Canning's Rock, it is thought free of danger from that island across to the isles which lie off the N.W. end of Billiton.

Warren Hasting's Shoal.

WARREN HASTING'S SHOAL, is about 2½ miles in extent, nearly N. by W. and S. by E., with only 1½ fathom on it in some places: the Warren Hastings, when aground on shoal a projecting part at its eastern edge, had the high land of Banca bearing S. 58° W., South extreme of Banca, or Tanjong Brekat S. 22° W., centre of Gaspar Island E. 20° S., and Tree Island S. 17° E., distant about 7 miles. To avoid this shoal on the West side, if passing between it and Banca, Tree Island must be kept to the eastward of S. S. E., when Gaspar Island bears from E. by S. to E. S. E., or until at least 3½ leagues to the N.Westward of Tree Island. Another good mark is, to steer to the northward with Tanjong Brekat bearing between South and S. by W., and not bring it to the westward of the latter bearing, when passing the shoal. Having passed to the westward of the Warren Hasting's Shoal, steer a

* There is a cave here, where the Malays come to collect birds nests, which they also probably find on the other Islands.

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North course from Tanjong Brekat, to pass betwixt the Vansittart's Shoal,* (on which the ship of that name was lost) and the Belvidere's Shoals.

Belvidere's Shoals.

BELVIDERE'S SHOALS, the S.W. end is in lat. 2° 15′ S., and bears from Gaspar Island Peak N. 27° W., distant about 10 or 10½ miles; they extend from thence, to the N. Eastward about 4 miles, being composed of several coral patches, with from 6 to 10 feet water on them; and a Black Rock above water, at the N. Eastern extremity. The sea breaks on them when there is much swell, and they may be easily avoided in day-light, with a good look out, particularly as some of the patches are dry at low water. An American ship, however, belonging to Mr. Astor of New York, was wrecked on these shoals, a few years ago; and not long after, a large Chinese Junk was wrecked there, part of her people floated to Gaspar Island, and some of them were found floating about on pieces of wood, and other fragments of wreck, who were saved by the laudable exertions of a country ship belonging to Calcutta, that fell in with them at the time.

Vansittart's Shoal.

VANSITTART'S SHOAL,* in lat. 2° 11′ S., bearing from Gaspar Island Peak N. 56° W., distant 25 miles, and 5 leagues to the westward of the Belvidere's Shoals, is composed of coral rock and very dangerous, the depths on it being 3 and 3½ fathoms; the water over it is not always discoloured, consequently, the danger is not visible.

Directions.

To pass betwixt the Belvidere's Shoals and the Vansittart's Shoal, when Gaspar Island is visible, the Peak kept between S. E. by S. and S. E. E., will guide you safely through; afterward, steer between N.W. by N. and N. N.W., to avoid several other dangers near Banca, and the Magdalen's Shoal to the eastward. These shoals to the northward and N. Westward of Gaspar Island, are mostly all steep to, having from 17 to 20 fathoms water close to their edges, and nearly the same depths in the channels between them; but in approaching the shoals adjacent to Banca, the water generally shoals to 12 or 14 fathoms, rocky bottom; you ought, therefore, not to borrow under 14 or 15 fathoms toward Banca,† after having passed Gaspar Island, if the passage to the westward of the outer or northern shoals is followed; but this is not advisable, the passage to the eastward of them and Gaspar Island, being preferable.

Magdalen's Shoal.

MAGDALEN'S SHOAL, discovered by Captain John Cowman, November 24th, 1806, on his passage from China toward New York, in the American ship Magdalen, is the outermost shoal discovered to the northward of Gaspar Straits, and greatly in the way of ships coming from the northward in thick weather toward the straits. He was within ½ a cable's length of the shoal before it was perceived, which was found to consist of two patches of coral rock, about 80 fathoms in length, and 15 fathoms in breadth, with deep water between them. The boat found 12 feet water upon them, although in some parts, there may be less. About ½ a cable's length from the shoal, they had 19, 20, and 21 fathoms water; and being noon at the time, observed the lat. 1° 56½′ S., the summit of Gaspar Island Peak then in

* The Vansittart was lost by striking on this shoal, after having nearly completed a survey of Macclesfield Strait, on her passage toward China, in 1789: since Captain L. Wilson made that survey, other dangers have been discovered farther to the northward, which render the passage West of Gaspar Island unsafe in thick weather; and it is not improbable, that more undiscovered shoals may exist in this dangerous sea to the eastward of Banca.

† Although this caution has been hitherto thought necessary, Captain Robert Scott, states, that in the ship Warren Hastings, he hauled in with the coast of Banca a little to the northward of Tanjong Brekat, then coasted along to the northward, keeping generally in 11 fathoms water, without perceiving any appearance of shoals, nor any danger except contiguous to the shore, although a constant look out was kept at the mast-head. There are, however, dangers in 12 or 13 fathoms, to the northward of Pulo Panjang, and off Tanjang Ryah, shortly to be described.

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sight from the deck, bearing S. 10° E., distant 10½ leagues. By keeping Gaspar Peak S. ½ E. or South, the shoal will be left to the southward in passing, but Gaspar Peak will not be discernible from the shoal unless the weather is clear.

Capt. Ross, in July 1814, endeavoured to find this shoal, without success, but during his survey of Gaspar Straits, in 1818, he explored the Magdalen's Shoal or Rock, which was ascertained to be of small extent, and situated in lat. 2° 0′ S., bearing from Gaspar Island N. 8° 45′ W. by compass.

Severn's Shoal.

SEVERN'S SHOAL, discovered by Captain John Whetton, in the American ship Severn, from New York, May 23d, 1802, is much in the way of ships running from Pulo Toty toward Gaspar Island, and it is the northernmost of the discovered shoals off the East coast of Banca. At sun-set, Gaspar Peak bore S. E. ¾ S., distant 4½ or 5 leagues; from this situation they steered N.W.½ N., 35 miles to day-light, then struck on a coral shoal, and got off it on the following flood, after lightning the ship of 30 tons of ballast, and carrying out a bower anchor. The shoal appeared to extend N. N. E. and S. S.W., about 2 or 3 miles, and on that part where the ship grounded, there was only 10 feet on a rock, which was the least water they found. When aground, lat. observed 1° 40′ S., and the hills on Banca appeared detached from each other, like islands, bearing from S.W. by S. ¼ S., to S.W. by W.; the mountain Goonong Marass, was seen inland beyond the other hills, and the nearest land seemed distant about 7 leagues from the shoal. The Colombian, American ship, belonging to New York, returning from Canton in March, 1824, in working to the southward for the Straits of Gaspar, grounded on the Severn's Shoal, and bilged:—the crew reached Mintow on Banca, in the long boat, after suffering much fatigue.

Other Shoals near Banca.

OTHER SHOALS, whose positions are not correctly known, lie nearer to the coast of near Banca than those last mentioned, which are avoided by not coming under 16 fathoms; the bottom in such case, will be mostly mud, but generally foul and rocky under 15 fathoms. The Sulivan, from China, hauling in to get a sight of Banca, December 25th, 1784, during thick weather, after shoaling to 13½ fathoms rocky bottom, saw three shoals with breakers, one bearing S. S.W. 3 miles, one S. E. by S. 3 miles, another E. N. E. about 4 miles; and there appeared amongst the breakers, some rocks above water. These dangers seem to be about 4 leagues off Banca, and in about lat. 2° 3′ S., a little to the northward of Pulo Panjang,* but the weather being very thick, the land was not seen at the time the shoals were visible.

The Hillsborough, returning from China, toward Macclesfield Strait, by keeping too close to the coast of Banca, struck upon a rock at 4 P. M., March 27th, 1788, having only 3 feet water on the shoalest part; and when the ship was aground forward, there were 13 fathoms at the main chains on both sides. After getting off, she anchored in 14 fathoms a little to the westward of the reef, extremes of Banca from W. N. W. to S. E., five small islands bearing South, and the lat. about 2° 3′ S.; the boat on the South end of the reef, bore from the ship about S. E., and when on the other end, about N. E.

The five islands bearing South from the ship, when at anchor near the reef, must have been Pulo Panjang, the islet near it, and three others at a little distance to the South-eastward; it seems, therefore, very probable, that the reef on which this ship struck, was one of those seen in the Sulivan; and if not the same as those encountered by the General Elliot, it must be situated very near them.

* With the small island off Pulo Panjang bearing S. by W. ¼ W., 5 miles distant, and the eastern extreme of Banca S. S. E. ½ E., being the toe of the mountain over Tanjong Brekat, the General Elliot got entangled with shoals, and had 8 fathoms close to them, in the situation described above; as the Sulivan had deeper water, the shoals seen by her, may be others at a greater distance from the coast, although they are probably the same, and do not lie so far off shore as mentioned above.

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A little farther to the northward, about 4 leagues off Banca, in lat. 1° 55′ S., there is a Bank with overfalls from 13 to 7 fathoms, and probably less water, over which the General Elliot passed.

Palmer's shoal.

PALMER'S SHOAL, is probably the bank last-mentioned, and the following description of it, is given by Capt. Roddam, of the ship Palmer. August 27th, 1811, at 45 minutes P. M., the ship suddenly struck, having sounded about 5 minutes before in 14 fathoms; saw discoloured water on both sides under the quarters, had then 10 fathoms by the lead, the ship having passed rapidly over the shoal; next cast, had 11, 10, 11 fathoms, then anchored, the wind blowing fresh from S. E. against us. When, at anchor, Tanjong Ryah bore W. ¾ N.W., distant about 5 leagues, the southernmost low islands of Pulo Panjang S. S.W. ¾ W. distant 12 or 14 miles, the shoal on which we struck bearing about N. N. E. 2½ miles, according to the distance run until anchoring.

N. E. coast of Banca

Geo. Site of Goonong Marass.

NORTH EAST COAST OF BANCA, although surveyed, and correctly delineated of Banta. by Lieut. James Robinson, in his excellent chart of the northern part of the island, a brief description here, may not be improper. There are many hills interspersed along this coast, near the sea, and some mountains inland; one of these, is about 4 leagues West from Tanjong Brekat; and about 6 leagues to the westward of Tanjong Ryah, in lat. 1° 53′ S., lon 105° 52′ E., stands the double peaked mountain, GOONONG MARASS, the largest on the North part of Banca.

Pulo Panjang.

Marawan.

From Tanjong Brekat, the coast extends in a W. N.W. direction, about 14 leagues to Pulo Panjang, in lat. 2° 9′ S., which is about 2 leagues off shore, surrounded by reefs, and having the small island Pulo Ponjoon near it on the east side, with a great reef and foul ground stretching 4 leagues in a S. Easterly direction, upon which are several islands; Pulo Colowy, in lat. 2° 17′ S., being the Easternmost of these, and N. E. by N. from it about 5 miles, lies a rocky shoal of 1½ fathoms, from which Vansittart's Shoal bears about E. ½ N., distant 4 leagues. From Pulo Panjang to Tanjong Ryah, the coast trends to the north, and is fortified by reefs and rocky patches to the distance of 2 and 3 leagues; Marawan river, a place affording tin, being situated about W. by N. from Pulo Panjang, cannot be approached by ships on account of surrounding dangers.

A brig, that went from Mintow to Marawan for tin, got entangled by the numerous shoals, near that place, and grounded on one of them, although she had a Malay pilot on board, which obliged her to lie near Pulo Panjang, distant about 10 miles from Marawan, where she took in tin.

Gen. Site of Tanjong Ryab.

TANJONG RYAH, in lat. 1 ° 55′ S., lon, 106° 14′ E., bearing from Tanjong nearly N.W., distant about 19 leagues, has two hummocks on it, and the coast between these headlands forms a concavity, with several islands in it, and the dangers already mentioned.

Black Rock Reef.

Black Rock Reef, situated 4 or 5 miles to the South and S. S. Eastward of Tanjong Ryah, is very extensive, with only 3 feet water, rocky bottom in some places; but there are also rocks above water on it about 14 feet high. This shoal, and also the reef fronting Tanjong Ryah, have 9 and 10 fathoms water near to them, both of which were examined by Captain Waterman, when he anchored in Songy Leat Bay in July, 1813, in the ship Volunteer. From the highest rock of Black Rock Reef, Goonong Marass was open to the southward of Tanjong Ryah Hills bearing W. 7° N., easternmost hill of Tanjong Ryah N. 53° W., Tanjong Tuan N. 30° W., Songy Leat Bay S. E. extreme N. 39° W., Inner Pulo Panjang S. 12° E., Outer ditto S. 22° E.

Songy Leat.

SONGY LEAT BAY, in lat. 1° 50′ S., situated to the N.W. of Tanjong Ryah, has good anchorage, and shelter from southerly winds. The Volunteer, at anchor in 5 fathoms

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white stiff clay, about ¾ of a mile from the shore, had Goonong Marass bearing W. 6° S., Tanjong Laing, the North point of the Bay, and Tanjong Tuan in one N. N. W., Tanjong Ryah Point S. E. ½ S, and Songy Leat River W. ¼ N. In entering the bay from the northward, care must be taken of a Rocky Shoal, with only 1 fathom water on it, bearing about E. ½ S: 3½ miles from the North point of the bay; and a 4 fathoms patch lies about 2 miles E. S. E. from the same point.

Fresh water is difficult to be got here, as boats can only enter the river when the tide is high: wood may be cut close to the beach; and spars of any dimensions may be got with little difficulty, in the South part of the bay, within ½ a mile of the shore. From the river nearly to the S. E. point of the bay, a fine sandy beach lines the shore, the soundings decreasing gradually toward it, over a clear bottom; this bay and the adjacent coast abounds with fine fish. The tide rises 9 feet at full and change of the moon, and flows till 5 P. M. only once in 24 hours.

and other places.

The coast about Pulo Panjang, and from thence to Soogy Leat Bay, is dangerous to approach, but from the latter place to Tanjong Muncooda, it is more safe, and from thence westerly near to Clabat Bay, where it becomes dangerous at the East part of this bay, near the islands at its entrance.

Tanjong Tuan, in lat. 1° 38′ S., has a hill on it with several others inland, and may be approached within ½ a mile; it bears from Tanjong Ryah nearly N. N.W. ½ W., about 6 leagues, the coast to the South of it forming a bay, with Pulo Simbaug, a small island, about 2 leagues S. S. Eastward from Tanjong Tuan, and Pulo Ponigh, another small island, close to the latter.

Anchorage at Calabat Bay.

Tanjong Muncooda in lat. 1° 28½′ S., is the northernmost point of Banca, and bears from Tanjong Tuan about N.W. by W. 5 or 6 leagues, and has a small island near it, called Pulo Muncooda, with a 2 fathoms shoal about 3 miles West from the latter, and 1½ mile offshore. About 3 leagues W. by S. from Pulo Muncooda, lies the entrance of Clabat or Calabat Bay, having several islands in it, and Pulo Punyosoo close to Tanjong Punyosoo, the point that bounds the East side of the entrance. The bottom of Calabat Bay, is said to communicate with an extensive Lagoon inland, in which there are 16 fathoms water. Country ships anchor to procure tin, at the entrance of the bay, in 9½ or 10 fathoms, about 2 miles from Pulo Bay. Punyosoo, on with Goonong Marass, bearing S. 28° E., Goonong Calabat S. 28° W., Tanjong Malaloo, the West point of the bay W. 15° S., the hill over it called Goonong Malaloo W. 20° S., and Pulo Muncooda E. 7° N.

Serveral rock's and islands.

Tanjong Goonting, in lat. 1° 43′ S., forms the North Point of SONGY BOOLOO BAY, and is on with Monopin Hill, bearing S. 22° W.: it is about 6½ leagues to the S.Westward of the West point of Calabat Bay, and between them, there are several other points, also two islands, called Pulo Pamooja, and Pulo Proute; and two rocks, called Carang-Malan-Toole, and Carang-Malan-Dooyong, which lie about a league off shore.

Carang-Malan-Doovong, the easternmost of these rocks, is the largest, being as high as a small vessel's hull, and bears W. 28° N. from the West point of Calabat Bay, distant 4 or 5 miles; and when on with Goonong Marass and a little hill, it bears S. 35° E.

Carang-Malan-Toole, about the height of a boat above water, is 3 or 4 miles off shore, and about the scone distance W. 17° S. from the rock last mentioned, and bears from Pulo Proute N. 6° E. Nearer the shore, lies another rock, called Carang Malan-Goonting, which bears from Pulo Proute E. 18° N., and from Carang-Malan-Dooyong W. 12° S.

Anchorage to the eastward of them.

The soundings about 2 or 3 miles outside of these rocks, vary from 17 to 26 fathoms, and they are steep to, but a ship may anchor to the eastward of them, off Tanjong Malaloo, in 13 fathoms, with that point S. 61° W., Pulo Proute S. 66° W., Carang-Malan-Dooyong W. 3° S., Carang-Malan-Toole W. 18° S., and Carang-Malau Goonting W. 20° S.

Songy Booloo.

SONGY BOOLOO, bearing S. 65° E., about 5 miles from Tanjong Goonting, is the

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principal town near the North end of Banca, and frequented by the country traders: the bay is about 4 leagues in extent from Tanjong Goonting to Tanjong Beeat, but occupied by shoal water to the distance of 3 miles from the shore.

Ships in want of water, may anchor under Tanjong Goonting in 5 or 6 fathoms, with it bearing N. 18° E., the S.W. extreme of the bay, (a long low point) S. 32° W., Songy Booloo S. 83° E., and the watering place, which is about 1½ mile inside of Tanjong Goonting, N. 61° E. Or a ship may anchor in 5 fathoms, abreast of Songy Booloo, bearing N. 52° E., Tanjong Goonting N. 20° W., Monopin Hill S. 33° IV., and Tanjong Beeat the westernmost extreme S. 49° W., off shore about 3 miles.

To sail through the Middle Passage of Gaspar Straits,

and from thence into the China Sea.

MIDDLE PASSAGE, formed between Macclesfield and Clement's Straits, has formerly been adopted by several ships which proceeded betwixt Banca and Billiton; but it is now little frequented, being more intricate than Macclesfield Strait. A ship intending to proceed through it, should, in coming from S.Westward, steer betwixt Entrance Point and Vansittart's Shoals, toward Middle Island, borrowing on the East side of the channel until Sandy Island is approached. There are two shoals between Barn Island and the S. E. part of Middle Island, and a passage nearly in mid-channel, by leaving a shoal on each side; but the best passage is to the eastward of them: keep therefore within a mile of the West side of Sandy Island, and bring it to bear S.W. by S.; by keeping it on this bearing, but nothing to the southward, you will pass clear to the eastward of the outer shoal, which will be easily discerned by the discoloured water, for it is dry at low tide. Having passed this shoal, a northerly course should be steered, keeping at least a league from the East side of Middle Island; if the weather is clear, Gaspar Island will soon be seen bearing about N. by W., which should be passed on the East side at the distance of 2, 3, to 5 or 6 miles. Whilst Gaspar Island is visible, do not bring it to the eastward of South, which will lead in the fair channel to the eastward of the Magdalen's Shoal. Being clear of the latter, by sinking Gaspar Island under the horizon, if the weather is clear, or getting into lat. 1° 50′ S., a direct course about N. N.W. may be steered, if bound into the China Sea, to pass between Pulo Aor and Pulo Domar, the latter bearing from Gaspar Island N. 19° W., distant 110 leagues. The depths in this track, will increase from 18 and 20 fathoms near Gaspar Island and the adjacent shoals, to 26 or 28 fathoms eastward of Pulo Lingin, and to 30 or 34 fathoms, in approaching Palo Aor, or Pulo Domar.

Directions for sailing through Clement's Strait.

CLEMENT'S STRAIT, may be adopted occasionally, if winds or other circumstances favor the passage through it, although the preference is usually given to Macclesfield Strait. If a ship, however, coming from the southward, intend to proceed through Clement's Strait, and the wind be at S. Eastward, she ought to steer up to the westward of Shoal-Water-Island and the shoals to the southward of it, giving them a birth of 3 or 4 miles in passing: when clear of that island, to. avoid the S. Eastern extremity of the Vansittart's Shoals, she must haul to the eastward until the peak of Saddle Island bears N. by E., then steer for it, and pass mid-channel betwixt it and South Island, to avoid a reef, dry at low water, distant 1¼ mile N. E. by E. from Saddle Island.

There is a channel about 2 miles wide, betwixt the N. E. end of Vansittart's Shoals and Low Island,* through which a ship may proceed into Macclesfield Strait, or into the Middle Passage, if circumstances should render that necessary; and in such case, she may pass to the westward of Low Island, giving it a birth of 2 miles.

But to proceed through Clements' Strait, after passing about mid-channel betwixt Saddle Island and South Island, a course about N. by W. or N. N.W. will be proper, to pass nearer

* If the passage between Low Island and Barn Island be adopted, there are some dangerous spots to be avoided, which extend from Barn Island nearly to mid-channel in a South and S. by W. direction.

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to Barn Island than to North Island, which track is requisite to avoid a SUNKEN ROCK* about 6 or 8 fathoms in diameter, having only 1½ fathom water upon it, and 8 to 10 fathoms all round. Saddle Island bears from it S. by W. ¼ W. 3¼ miles, North Island E. by N. 2¼ miles, Barn Island W. by S. 3¼ miles, and it bears North from the reef that lies about 1¼ mile eastward of Saddle Island. Having passed through this narrow part of the strait, with North Island bearing East or E. by S. 3 or 3½ miles, a direct course about North may be steered to pass on the East side of Gaspar Island, if bound into the China Sea, giving a birth to the General Hewitt's Rock; and when clear of it steer to the N. Eastward, if bound to the coast of Borneo, taking care to give a birth of at least 2 leagues to the N.W. coast of Billiton, as sunken rocks are interspersed throughout Treacherous Bay, which is situated between Long Island and the group of islands at the N.W. end of Billiton.

General Hewitt's Rock.

GENERAL HEWITT'S ROCK, discovered by the ship of this name, August 7th, 1820, on her passage towards China, is situated in the fair channel, at the northern part of Clements' Strait, upon which she struck at 11½ A. M., August 7th, 1820, and lay aground about 15 minutes. This rock was found to extend about a ship's length, and to be 8 or 10 fathoms in breadth, the coral rocks visible under the ship's bottom, having 15 or 16 feet water over them, at the shoalest part, with from 12 to 15 fathoms water close to it all round. When aground upon the rock, the westernmost part of South Island was just visible, on with the West end of North Island, extremes of Pulo Leat from N. 67° W. to S. 77° W., Barn Island S. 34° W., the Mountain of Tanjong Brekat well clear of the North end of Pulo Leat. This rock is 4 or 4½ miles distant from North Island, and it will be avoided, by keeping the high part of South Island open with the West end of North Island.

Excepting Macclesfield Strait, Clements' Strait may be considered the best passage amongst the islands which lie between the S. E. point of Banca and Billiton, if a ship keep in the fair channel, where the depths are generally from 16 to 20 fathoms.

Directions, and Geo. Site of Shoe Island.

If coming from the East, and bound to the northward through any of these straits, to make SHOE ISLAND, situated in lat. 3° 47½′ S., lon.108° 2′ E. by chronometers from Batavia: from thence, steer N.W. which will lead you betwixt Shoal-Water-Island and a long low island off the S.W. part of Billiton, where the water will deepen to 22 and 24 fathoms sandy bottom. If you make the S. E. part of Billiton, coast along in 11 or 12 fathoms until Shoal-Water-Island is seen bearing about West, 4 leagues distant; the water will then deepen, and when Saddle Island is discerned to the N, N.W., steer to pass mid-way between it and South Island, if bound through Clements' Strait; but if Macclesfield Strait is to be chosen, steer a little more westerly, to pass betwixt the North end of the Vansittart's Shoals and Low, and Sandy Islands, keeping within 2 miles of the West sides of these islands in passing, then steer near the West side of Pulo Leat, conforming to the directions in the beginning of this section, for proceeding through Macclesfield Strait. It is sometimes very difficult to get to the northward through any of these straits in the northerly monsoon, and even so late as March, calms and faint airs, with a constant southerly current, have been known to prevent ships from making any progress to the northward, and obliged them to lie at anchor for several days together. At this season it is improper to attempt the passage to the northward, through any of these straits; in a small ship, the passage close along the West coast of Borneo ought to be prefered. The Grenville, bound to China, reached Macclesfield Strait, February 28th, 1816, and met with constant southerly currents, and N, N.W. winds, which obliged her to lie mostly at anchor, to prevent being drifted to the southward, and she did not pass Gaspar Island till March 13th; saw the Great Natuna on the 30th, and she, then proceeded to Malacca for a supply of water.

* Sandy Island shut in behind Barn Island, and half of Table Island open with the North end of South Island, is on this sunken rock. The passage between it and North Island is equally safe as that between it and Barn Island, (although not so wide) by keeping within a mile of North Island when passing the rock.

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Geo. Site of Pulo Toty; and directions to sail from the northward through Macclesfield Strait, in the northerly monsoon.

SHIPS from CHINA, intending to pass through Gaspar Straits, may proceed by the westernmost one, called Macclesfield Strait, if not very late in the season; and in departing from the from Pulo Domar, a course may be steered for Pulo Toty, in lat. 0° 58′ S., lon. 105° 42′ E., bearing from Pulo Domar, S. 6° E., distant 75 leagues, or 23 miles East from the latter by chronometer; if a southerly current is experienced after leaving Pulo Domar, it will probably set to the S. Eastward, as the distance is increased to the South of the equator, for which make allowance in thick weather, when observations are not obtained, or when the wind draws to N.Westward. Pulo Docan bears nearly S.W. by W., about 3 leagues from Pulo Toty, and the depths are from 20 to 15 fathoms mud, in a safe channel between them; but pass to the East of Pulo Toty at 4 to 6 leagues distance, or even farther, if the wind incline from N. Eastward.

Having passed Pulo Toty, from which Gaspar Island bears S. 44° E., distant 40 leagues, steer an E. S. Easterly course, to get on the meridian of the latter island before you reach lat. 1° 50′ S., in order to pass to the East of the Magdalen's Shoal, and all the dangers adjacent to the coast of Banca; then enter the straits on either side of, and near to Gaspar Island: afterward, haul to the S. Westward, to avoid the Alceste Rock, and pass on the West side of Pulo Leat, within l½ or 2 miles, to avoid the Discovery Rock.

Geo. Site of Low Pyramidal Rocks.

The foregoing directions, are only applicable to ships which come from China very early in the season, when N. Westerly winds sometimes prevail, and then Banca Strait is preferable:* but the best route to pursue, in general, particularly in the latter part of the northerly monsoon, when S. E. and Easterly winds are often experienced between Banca and Billiton, is to steer for the North Natunas if not certain of your longitude, and pass 5 or 6 leagues to the westward of them, and the islands which lie off the western part of the Great Natuna, in order to give a birth to two shoals that lie from 2 to 3½ leagues S. S. Westerly from N.W.Island; taking care to keep a good look out for the Low Pyramidal Rocks, situated in lat. 4° 8′ N., lon. 107° 27′ E., distant about 12 leagues to the westward of the Great Natuna. From hence, steer to pass to the West of Haycock Island, to avoid Diana's Shoal, and proceed to the southward, leaving Victory and Barren Islands to the West, and Camel Island, St. Julian, and St. Esprit Islands to the eastward, if the wind admit; otherwise, you may pass through the most convenient channel between these islands, which are all thought to be safe, with soundings from 20 to 35 fathoms. Having passed the St. Esprit Islands, steer to fall in with St. Barbe Island, and pass it on the West side at about 3 leagues distance; then steer to make Gaspar Island, taking care to get to the East of its meridian before you pass the Magdalen's Shoal, which should not be passed in the night, as Gaspar Island is the only guide, in clear weather, to avoid that shoal: the soundings in this track are generally from 20 to 27 fathoms. When Gaspar Island is discerned bearing from South to S. S.W., steer to pass it on the East side, within 1 or 2 miles distance, to avoid the Canning's Rock, and to prevent being set over toward the Alceste Rock and reefs at the North end of Pulo Leat, and pass Pulo Leat on the West side, within 1½ or 2 miles, nor stand farther than 2½ miles at most from it in working, when abreast of the Discovery Shoal. A good look out should be kept for the Belvidere's Shoals, in running to the southward for Gaspar Island, as the rock at their northern extreme, or some of the dry patches may be seen in clear weather, if

* The Bombay, and Charles Grant, in company, homeward-bound from China, in December, 1817, saw Pulo Aor in thick weather, intending to pass through the Strait of Banca; but by steering a course to give a wide birth to the Dogger Banks in the night, they were carried far to the eastward of Banca, by a strong easterly current, having strong West and W. S. W. winds at the time. They made Gaspar Island bearing S. by W., and anchored, to prevent being driven farther to the eastward, but the Bombay parted from two anchors in the night, by the force of the short heavy sea. Neither of these ships were able to effect a passage through the Straits of Gaspar, but were driven to the eastward of Billiton, by the strong easterly current, and westerly winds, and both proceeded to the southward through the Carimata Passage. From hence, the Charles Grant worked to the westward, and proceeded out through the Strait of Sunda; but the Bombay went through the Strait of Allass, and they arrived at St. Helena on the same day.

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Gaspar Island is kept bearing nearly South, which is proper, to prevent being carried to the eastward by the currents.

Having brought the West point of Pulo Leat to bear N. by E., steer out of the strait with this bearing, or in working, it may be kept between North and N. by E. ½ E. If working out between Vansittart's Shoals, and the shoal patches off the South end of Banca, Entrance Point must be kept between N. ½ W. and N.W. by N., or that point bearing N. ½ W. to N. by W., is a safe guide with a leading wind. With either of these marks, steer S. by W. until the low land that joins the hills on Banca, is sunk under the horizon; and to avoid the Fairlie Rock, sink Shoal Water Island by the time it bears N. E. by E., observing that Entrance Point must not bear to the westward of N. by W. when the distance from it is increased to 8 leagues. When this point is distant 5½ or 6 leagues, bearing to the northward, a direct course may be steered to fall in with the Two Brothers, if N. Westerly winds prevail; but it will be prudent to make the North Watcher, when the winds are S. Easterly.

Proceeding through Macclesfield Strait, when S. E. winds predominate, borrow near to Pulo Leat and the East side of the channel, to be enabled to pass clear out, without falling to leeward upon the 2½ fathoms bank, or the shoal banks and overfalls projecting from the South end of Banca. The soundings in the strait, are generally 17 and 18 fathoms in mid-channel, increasing abreast of the West point of Pulo Leat to 24 or 28 fathoms; from thence, the depths decrease to 12 and 11 fathoms, in passing out of the strait to the southward of Entrance Point. The bottom in many places is mud, but often it consists of coarse sand, shells, and stones, and in some places rocky, particularly near the shoals on the Banca side. About 1½ mile westward from the small island Pulo Chellaka, adjoining to the West Point of Pulo Leat, the bottom is also rocky and improper for anchorage, nor should it be approached to less distance, on account of two rocks with only 1 fathom water over them, which are ¾ of a mile to the westward of the small island.

To sail from the northward through Clements' Strait late in the Season.

RETURNING FROM CHINA, very late in the season, S. S. Westerly winds in the southern part of the China Sea, are liable to set you over to the eastward amongst the islands adjacent to the coast of Borneo. Should this happen so late as June, it would be tedious getting to the southward; in such case, you may steer for the N.W. end of Billiton, and pass through Clements' Strait. The island of Billiton is high uneven land, and its coasts, which have never been well explored, are lined with many dangers, and islands of various sizes. The outermost island of the group, adjoining to the N.W. end of Billiton, is in lat. 2° 35′ S., and bears nearly S.W. ½ S. from the Island Souroutou, distant about 23 leagues.

Having approached the N.W. end of Billiton, (which may be seen about 8 leagues) give a birth of 4 or 5 miles to the group of islands contiguous to it, and a direct course must be steered to the S.W., to pass the N.W. end of Long Island, about the same distance; for TREACHEROUS BAY, fronting the coast of Billiton is very dangerous, having many sunken rocks at 4 and 5 miles distance from the shore, and the coast is barren and destitute of fresh water. The fleet under Captain Clements, went into this bay in search of fresh water, in July, 1781; and the Mansfield and Pilot both struck, and lay some time upon the sunken rocks, N.W. Island then bearing N. 20° E. 6 or 7 miles, outer extreme of Long Island S. 50° W., Gaspar Island N. 67° W., off Billiton 4 or 5 miles.

After passing the N.W. end of Long Island, to avoid the General Hewitt's Rock, a S. S. Westerly course should be followed toward North Island, and pass to the West of it about a mile distant, to avoid the Sunken Rock 24¼ miles W. by S. from North Island, then keep nearly in mid-channel, betwixt South and Saddle Islands. When through the channel between these islands, continue a southerly course, taking care not to bring Saddle Island to the eastward of N. by E., until you are 10 or 11 miles to the southward of it, in order to avoid the S. E. angle of Vansittart's Shoals, then steer westerly to give a birth to Shoal Water Island and the shoals to the South of it, and particularly to Fairlie Rock, by leaving all these

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dangers to the S. Eastward; when clear of them, steer a direct course to fall in with the North Watcher.

PARTICULAR INSTRUCTIONS for sailing through Clements' Strait, are given in the preceding pages; and the islands and dangers contiguous to it and the other branches of the Straits of Gaspar, are described at the beginning of this section.

SAILING DIRECTIONS from BANCA STRAIT to PULO AOR. ISLANDS and DANGERS adjacent to the PASSAGE. DIRECTIONS for RHIO STRAIT.

WHEN CLEAR of Frederic Hendric Rocks at the North end of Banca Strait, and bound into the China Sea, steer N. by E. to pass between the Seven Islands and Pulo Taya, in regular soundings, increasing from 7, to 12 or 14 fathoms as the islands are approached.

To soil from Banca Strait to the northword.

In thick weather, or in the night, the lead may be useful as a guide, to discover if there is any oblique current, for the depth will generally decrease over a bottom of ouze mixed with sand toward the Sumatra Coast, and increase near the Seven Islands over an ouzy or muddy bottom; but these islands must be approached with caution in the night, on account of the rock near the westernmost of them, for the soundings do not always to a certainty, point out its proximity.

Geo. Site of the Seven Islands.

Pulo Docan.

PULO TOOJOO, i. e. SEVEN ISLANDS, lie in two groups, extending 7 or 8 miles in latitude, the southernmost consisting of three islands, being separated from the others of the northern group: by Capt. Ross's observations, the N. Westernmost of these islands are in lat. 1° 8′ S., lon. 105° 24′ E., or about 10 miles East of Monopin Hill.* Some of them are seen from the northern extremity of Banca, being generally high, and may be discerned 8 or 9 leagues: they are all covered with trees except the westernmost, which is a Barren Rocky Islet, with a small rock just above water to the W. N.W. of it, distant 1 or 2 mile; this Palo renders a cautious approach necessary in the night, or in thick weather. Pulo Docan, bears about E. N. E. from the Seven Islands 4 or 5 leagues, and the channel between it and them, has 15 and 16 fathoms regular soundings. But a rock has been discovered about 1½ mile S. E. from Pulo Docan, upon which the ship Mary struck, in January, 1823, although drawing only 10 feet water, then on her passage from Mintow to Singapore.†

Geo. Site of Pulo Taya.

PULO TAYA, or SAIA, in lat. 0° 45½′ S., lon. 104° 58′ E., distant 34 miles N. 50½° W. from the N. Westernmost of the Seven Islands, bears from Pulo Docan W. by N. ¼ N.; it is high, and may be seen 11 or 12 leagues in clear weather, and near it on the N. East side, lie two rocky islets.

Ilchester Shoal.

ILCHESTER SHOAL, to the northward of Pulo Taya, is much in the way of ships steering from Pulo Taya toward the East point of Lingin. The Ilchester returning from China in 1754, had thick weather after passing Pulo Aor, and in hauling to the W. S.W.,

* Capt. Ross, December 22d, 1812, by chronometers and cross bearings, made the N. Westernmost of the Seven Islands 11¼ miles East of Monopin Hill; whereas, Capt. Lestock Wilson's observations in 1789, placed the westernmost rock, nearly on the meridian of that hill: Mr. Fulton, in 1821, made the N.W. Island on the meridian of Monopin Hill, agreeing With Capt. Wilson.

† Cotnmunicated by Capt. Norquoy, from that ship's journal.

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struck on a shoal, December 12th, at 4 P.M., on which there were 2¾ fathoms sand and mud; she got off, by throwing the sails a-back, after being about 10 minutes aground. When on the shoal, the weather was thick, but two hummocks bearing N. N. Westerly, thought to be near the East point of Lingin, or the islands contiguous to it, was the only land visible; and by computation from the succeeding noon observation, the shoal appeared to lie in lat. 0° 28′ S. After anchoring near it on the West side, in 18 fathoms, and weighing on the following morning, she steered S. S.W. and S.W. by S. 6 or 7 leagues, made Pulo Taya bearing S. E. by S. about 3 leagues, and passed to the westward of it; having experienced about 20 miles of westerly current from leaving Pulo Aor.

The brig, Tweed, in December, 1799, shoaled suddenly in working into Lingin Bay, from 18 to 3 fathoms hard ground, on the western part of the Ilchester Shoal, with Pulo Taya bearing S. ¾ W., distant 4½ leagues; tacked immediately and steered S. S. E., deepening to 8 fathoms, then steered W. by S., and had overfalls from 20, to 10, 9, and 8 fathoms.

The Forth, in 1803, grounded on the West part of the Ilchester Shoal, with the small island off the East point of Lingin bearing N. by E. ½ E., distant about 12 miles.

This danger was examined by Capt. Ross, during his survey of the China Sea, and parts adjacent, who found it to be in lat. 0° 26½′ S., extending N. by E. and S. by W. about 2¼ miles, and 1½ mile in breadth, having 1 fathom water on its shoalest parts, with Pulo Taya bearing S. 4½° W., the islet off the East point of Lingin N. 13½° E., East point of Lingin N. 6¾ E., distant 8 or 9 miles. The depth of water decreases nearly all around, from 18, 16, or 15 fathoms, suddenly to 5 and 3 fathoms on the edge of the shoal.

To avoid this shoal, the small islet off the East point of Lingin must not be brought to the eastward of North, and Pulo Taya should be kept to the westward of S. by W. in passing the danger: in coming from the northward, after passing Lingin Point, it seems advisable not to haul to the westward to make Pulo Taya until near its parallel, or after having passed lat. 0° 32′ S.

Lingin.

Geo. Site.

Isles contiguous.

LINGIN, or LINGA, is a large island, extending E. S. E. and W, N.W. about 16 leagues, the equator passing through it. There is a mountain on its southern part, with two remarkable peaks* near each other, rising like spires from its summit, and Tanjong Eang the S. E. or eastern extremity of the island projects out into a point, in lat. 0° 18′ S., lon. 105° 4′ E., having islets and rocks around; it is formed of a hill, joined to the high land in the interior by a neck of low land, and often mistaken for an island. The N. E. side of Lingin has several islands near it, and those called the Dominos in lat. 0° 9′ or 0° 10′ S., are moderately elevated, the outermost of which, or East Domino, bears about North 3 leagues from Lingin East Point, and nearly the same distance from the opposite shore, having rocks projecting from it to the South, and close to the eastward of this small island, the depth is 14 fathoms: about 3 leagues off the N. E. part of Lingin, from 10 to 15 fathoms are the common depths; and irregular, from 14 to 22 fathoms, close to the rocks at the East Point.

To sail into Lingin Road.

Coming from N. Eastward, and bound into Lingin Road, round the East point of the island at a moderate distance, then steer westward for the anchorage, observing not to borrow too near the South coast, as the Stirling Castle was wrecked on a shoal that projects from the Third Point, counting Westward from the East point of the island, which has 16 feet water on it, and 12 or 14 fathoms close to. If coming from Banca Strait, pass to the westward of Pulo Taya, and steer for the high land to the eastward of Lingin Peak, giving a moderate birth to Pulo Sinkep, which forms the West side of the channel, and in working, it may be approached within 3 miles in 6 or 5 fathoms: the soundings are not always regular, but they will decrease gradually as the road is approached. The anchorage is 5 or 6 miles off shore, in 5 or 4½ fathoms mud, with Pulo Taya bearing about S. S. E., the East

* Called sometimes, the Asses Ears.

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point of Lingin East southerly, about 2½ or 3 miles to the S. Eastward of Pulo Kelumbo, a small island that lies about 4 miles S. S. Eastward from the mouth of the river, which issues from the peak, and upon its banks the town of Lingin is situated. The country traders, touch here at times with opium, for which in return, they receive tin, pepper, rattans, and some gold; but the inhabitants being treacherous, and addicted to piracy, caution is necessary, and a ship intending to touch here, must be well armed, constantly prepared to repel any assault that may be made by their armed proas.

Lingin Bay, is of semicircular form, exposed to southerly and easterly winds, and large ships are obliged to lie far out, on account of shoal water extending from the mouth of the river, around Pulo Kelumbo and its adjoining islets.

Ships may also steer for the bay, by passing to the eastward of Pulo Taya, the channel being 4 or 5 leagues wide between it and the Ilchester Shoal; in such case, borrow near Pulo Taya, then steer N.W. by W. and N.W., afterward, more northerly for the road.

Pulo Sinkep and other Islands.

PULO SINKEP, PULO SLIAR, and PULO POONOOBOO, form a group of three islands, with some adjoining islets, stretching from the S.W. part of Lingin 6 or 7 leagues to the southward; Pulo Sinkep, the easternmost of these, is high, and being separated from each other by narrow inlets, they appear as one large island.

Strait of Dassee, with sailing directions.

STRAIT OF DASSEE, called also Labooan Dadong, formed between this group and the S.W. end of Lingin, has soundings generally from 7 to 14 fathoms, and may be navigated with care, in ships of moderate size, as this is a short route from Lingin Road to the Straits of Dryon. If bound from Lingin Road to the westward, through the Strait of Dassee, steer out to the South and S. Westward, till near the N. E. part of Pulo Sinkep, to give a birth to the islets off Tanjong Datoo, the West point of Lingin Bay, and the extensive shoal which stretches from thence to the road. Having passed about mid-channel between the islets off Tanjong Datoo and those near the southern shore, steer for the S. West Point of Lingin, and the depths will be 12 and 14 fathoms near the islets and rocks on the South side of the strait, and 9 or 10 fathoms toward the Lingin shore; the bottom hard in the eastern part of the strait, and soft to the westward. Having passed the S. W. point of Lingin, steer about West in soundings of 11, to 9, and 8 fathoms soft ground, and pass to the northward of Wright's Island, about 2 miles distant, in 7, 8, or 9 fathoms, then steer to the N.West for the Straits of Dryon. Wright's Island is in lat. 0° 15′ S., and 2 miles to the North of Pulo Selinsing or Green Island, which are the outermost islands on the South side of the channel; there is a passage with 9 to 11 fathoms between them, and another about 2 miles wide to the S. E. of Green Island, with 10 to 19 fathoms, formed between it and the N.W. extremity of Pulo Sliar, or the islands contiguous to the latter, which are fronted by a reef on the North side.

Geldria's Shoal.

GELDRIA'S SHOAL, (or DOGGER BANK), named by Jurian Verburg, who was sent in the Bark Ryder from Batavia, to examine Banca Strait in 1761: he had only 1 and 1½ fathoms water on it, coarse sand with shells, and 7 fathoms at its extremity. From the shoal, Pulo Panjang bore N.W. by N. northerly, distant about 14 miles, and Ragged Island N. 18° W., and a rock above water appearing like a boat N. N.W.

The Crown Prince, Danish Indiaman, struck on it in 1748, and had seen Pulo Panjang about ½ an hour before, bearing N.W. by N.; the soundings near it decreased from 25, to 24, 23, and 19 fathoms coarse sand, close to the edge of the bank, on which ripplings were seen when she struck.

Captain Dempster, returning from China in the Ganges, struck on this shoal at 9 P. M. May 27th, 1784; the helm was immediately put down, and the ship came about in 3½ fathoms rocks; stood off N. E. by E., and anchored in 20 fathoms sand, the water having

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deepened as fast as the lead could be hove. At day-light, Pulo Panjang in sight from the deck bearing N.W. by N., two small islands W. by S., with several small hummocks between it and them, appearing like low islands; the rippling on the shoal then S.W. about ½ a mile. The danger appeared to stretch E. N. E. and W. S.W. about a mile, and half that breadth, having on it great overfalls from 2 to 6 fathoms, and the boat on one part, found only 6 feet coral rock. At a small distance to the southward, the boat had 17 and 18 fathoms, to the northward 20 and 22 fathoms, and 16 fathoms close to the shoal.

Geo. Site.

Capt. Ross, in 1819, examined this shoal, and made it in lat. 0° 48′ N., lon. 104° 59′ E., and its extent in a N. E. and S.W. direction is about 1¾ of a mile, having from 1½ to 4 fathoms water on it, 19 or 20 fathoms nearly close to the eastern part, from 8 to 11 and 12 fathoms irregular depths near the S.W. and western sides, deepening to 15 fathoms close to the BOAT ROCK, which is formed of three low rocks, visible about 4 miles from a ship's deck. From Geldria's Shoal the Boat Rock bears N.W. by N. and N. N.W. ½ W. about 2½ miles, Ragged Island N. N.W. 8½ miles, Pulo Panjang N.W. by N. 5 leagues, Saddle Island West 8 miles, and South Island W. S. W., which has several small islets near it, and are situated near the S. Eastern part of the land of Bintang. Saddle Island is in lat. 0° 48′ N., and appears in a double hummock bearing about West, when seen from Geldria's Shoal. Ragged Island, in lat. 0° 56½′ N., lon. 104° 56½′ E., is small, but high, and may be seen 7 or 8 leagues in clear weather; it lies about 6 miles to the S. E. of Pulo Panjang, and is the easternmost of all the islands which are situated to the East and S. Eastward of the large Island Bintang.

To sail from Banca Strait to Pulo Aor.

FROM BANCA STRAIT, if bound into the China sea, after having steered about N. by E., and having passed between the Seven Islands and Pulo Taya, when 4 or 5 leagues to the eastward of the latter, steer N. N. E., keeping the east point of Lingin to the westward of north when seen, to give a birth to the Ilchester Shoal, and to cross the equator in 20 or 21 fathoms. From hence, steer about N. N. E., until past Geldria's Bank or Shoal, observing in the night, not to come under 23 or 24 fathoms between lat. 0° 40′ N. and 0° 50′ N., to avoid that danger; but in the day, when Ragged Island is seen, keep it to the westward of N. W. by N., which will lead clear to the eastward of the shoal. Having got into the latitude last mentioned, or in 24 or 25 fathoms water, steer N. N. W. until in lat. 1° 0′ N.; being then abreast of Ragged Island, and Palo Panjang, a N. N. W. course will lead you fair to the eastward of Pulo Aor, if there be no lateral current, in soundings from 29 to 34 fathoms fine grey sand, or sometimes sand and mud.

To sail from the southward into Rhio Strait.

Port of Rhio.

TO ENTER RHIO STRAIT, when coming from the S. E. or Southward, pass along the East coast of Lingin at any convenient distance, in soundings from 14 to 18 fathoms, giving a birth of 3 or 4 miles to the islands off its N. E. part. Having passed these, steer to the N. W. for Pulo Rodong, or Radang, which may be approached within 1 or 2 miles at the N. E. and North parts, in soundings of 10 to 12 fathoms: this island is of considerable size, with a peaked hill situated in lat. 0° 25′ N., and bears North from the northern part of Lingin, distant 3 or 4 leagues. From Pulo Rodong, steer N. Westerly toward the entrance of the strait, keeping Table Hill a little on the larboard bow, which is flat at the summit, and stands on the South part of Pulo Gallatt. In entering the strait, borrow toward the islets near Pulo Gallatt, as the Topies or Five Islands, forming the East side of the entrance, have shoals extending 3 or 4 miles to the S. S. W., and 1 or 2 miles from their western sides: the soundings will decrease to 8 and 10 fathoms inside, and in some parts to 5½ or 6 fathoms. When clear of the Five Islands, which lie to the W. N. W. of Long Island, (and between which is a passage, but not so wide as the western channel,) steer North and N. by E. for Rhio Town, and pass between the island off the S. W. point of Bintang, and Pulo Sootoo the other island to the westward; for shoals extend from the latter in a N. Westerly

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direction, nearly to the West side of the strait, and a shoal mud bank projects from it to the S. S. Westward. The S.W. point of Bintang Island, called Tanjong Bantang, is 5 or 6 miles to the southward of Rhio, and after passing it, continue to steer northward until abreast of Rhio Point, if to stop there; the common anchorage is in 5 or 6 fathoms to the northward of the point, under Palo Beringa, in lat. 0° 57′ N. Rhio was formerly a port of great trade, but having suffered severely at various times, by requisitions of the Dutch, and piratical invasion, it affords few articles of merchandize at present; and is not frequented, except by small country traders, with the view of procuring a little pepper, or tin.

To sail from it into Singapore Strarit.

DEPARTING FROM RHIO, and bound to the northward, avoid the shoal to the westward of Pulo Beringa, by borrowing on the East side of the strait, toward it and close to Pulo Tercoli, the next island, as the rocky banks to the southward of the latter, are not always easily discerned. From the North part of the largest bank, dry at low water, Capt. Robert Scott, had Bintang Hill bearing N. 27° E., the East part of Pulo Tercoli low and sandy N. 21° W., distant 3½ miles, West part of ditto N. 30° W., First Hill to the southward of the strait W.5° S.

From the N.W. part of the bank, the East point of Pulo Tercoli bore N. 11° W., West point of ditto N. 23° W., distant from this island not more than 3 miles, the first hill to the southward of the strait W. 3° N., Little Luban N. 61° W., Bintang Hill N. 31° E. These banks are very dangerous, particularly in coming from the northward with a flood tide, if you do not keep near to Pulo Tercoli, as the channel is greatly contracted by them, and the following newly discovered shoal.

Minerva Shoal.

MINERVA SHOAL, discovered by Capt. Bell, in the Minerva, on the passage from Port Jackson and Batavia to Singapore, May 27th, 1825, when at 10 A. M. with Bintang Hill N. E. ½ N., Pulo Luban W. by N., and Pulo Tercoli N.W. ½ N. distant 1½ mile, shoaled from 5 to 3 fathoms at a cast of the lead, and grounded against the edge of a shoal, composed of hard sand, extending about 200 feet in a W. N. W. direction, and about 60 feet broad. The least water found on it was 2¼ fathoms hard sand, and all around 5 fathoms soft ground.

Having passed Pulo Tercoli, steer westward, the depth will increase as Pulo Luban is approached, and after rounding the West end of this island, and Little Luban, at a moderate distance, the course is about North, to pass nearly in mid-channel toward the North entrance of the strait, till the Pan Shoal is approached, in various soundings from 10 to 20 fathoms. There are several shoals contiguous to the shores on each side, which render it necessary for those unacquainted to keep a boat sounding a-head, when sailing through this strait.

Pan Shoal.

PAN SHOAL, however, situated at the North entrance of the strait, nearly in mid-channel, is the greatest danger, being extensive and rocky, sometimes visible at low water. There is a safe passage on either side of it, but that on the West side, between it and Pulo Battam, is not near so wide as the other to the eastward between it and Bintang, although, with proper caution, the western passage might be adopted if necessary. When the North extreme of Bintang bore E. by N., the North extreme of Pulo Battam W. N. W., Barbucit Hill N. ½ E., the Pan Shoal was in one with Bintang Hill bearing E. by S. ¼ S., distant about ½ a mile. Its eastern extremity bears S. 4° W. from Barbucit Hill, and its western extremity S. by E. ½ E. from Johore Hill, and its centre bears E. S. E. from the N. E. point of Pulo Battam. To avoid this shoal, it is best to proceed by the eastern channel, keeping within 3 or 4 miles of the Bintang shore, in soundings of 13 or 14 fathoms, to 18 and 20 fathoms toward the shoal; and when the North extreme of Pulo Batang is brought to bear W. by S., you are clear of it, and entered into the Strait of Singapore. Barbucit Hill, kept

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North or N. ¼ W., leads clear of it to the eastward; and Johore Hill bearing about N. by W., leads clear of it to the westward.

The Minerva, in May, 1825, went through the western passage, and thought it safe; but neither the Pan Shoal, nor the Battam shore, ought to be approached too close, as the latter, in some places, is fronted by patches of rocks under water, projecting about 1 and 1½ mile out, with an islet and some rocks above water near the N. E. point of Battam. The Dolphin, Capt. East, April 18th, 1821, steering into Rhio Strait by the western passage, saw two rocks about 2 feet under water nearly close to the vessel, hauled out instantly, had 3¼ fathoms rocks, the rudder just clearing them, with Johore Hill then bearing N. by W. ½ W., Barbucit Hill N. by E., a large dry rock S. S. W., Battam N. E. point and islet in one W. by N. ½ N., Pulo Luban S. S. E., north part of Bintang E. ¾ N., Bintang Hill E. by S. ½ S., Pan Shoal S. E. by E., off the Battam shore about 1½ or 2 miles. These rocks appeared to be detached from the shore, and the Dolphin in hauling off from them deepened into 7 fathoms, then to 9 fathoms over to the Pan Shoal. The ship George Crutenden, afterward grounded on rocks a little farther to the southward, Battam Point bearing N.W. ½ N., north point of Bintang E. by N. ½ N., Barbucit Hill N. by E. ¼ E., Pan Shoal E. ½ N., Pulo Luban S. S. E. ¼ E., off the Battam shore 1½ or 2 miles:—had only 2 feet water on these rocks at low tide, and 6 fathoms within them; the Crutenden lay 13 hours on the rocks, before she was hove clear of them.

To return into the Strait of Rhio.

Coming from the northward into Rhio Strait, to pass to the eastward of the Pan Shoal, bring Johore Hill to bear N. N. W., or Barbucit Hill N. ¼ W., then steer South, taking care not to bring the latter to the eastward of North; for in such case, you would be very near the Pan Shoal. Having passed it, and fairly entered the strait, the course is about South to round Little Luban about 2 or 3 cables' lengths distance; then E. by S. and E. S. E., and pass at a small distance on the West side of Pulo Tercoli and Pulo Beringa, giving a birth to the Minerva Shoal.

DIRECTIONS for SAILING from BANCA STRAIT, through the STRAITS of DRYON.— To return SOUTHWARD, by the same ROUTE.

Straits of Dryon.

STRAITS OF DRYON, or DURIAN, with the passage to the southward of these Straits, is above 40 leagues in length from Pulo Varela to the Carimons; and bounded on the West side by the coast of Sumatra, False Durian, Sabon, and the contiguous islands; on the East side, it is bounded by the islands off the South and West sides of Lingin, Great and Little Durian, and the adjacent islands.

To sail from Banca Strait to the former.

Channels.

Departing from Banca Strait, and being abreast of Batacarang Point in 7 fathoms, bound to the Straits of Dryon, steer about N. N.W. ½ W. toward Pulo Varela, distant about 22 leagues; but the bank along the Sumatra coast in this space being very flat, the soundings former are usually the best guide, by keeping in from 5½ to 7 fathoms; and in working, the coast may be approached to 5 fathoms. The tides near the shore, are generally strong; in the offing they are irregular, and currents sometimes prevail.

Geo Site of Pulo Varela.

PULO VARELA, VERELLAH, or BARALLAH, in lat. 0° 50′ S., lon. 104° 28′ E., bearing W. ¾ S. from Pulo Taya about 11 leagues, is of middling height, having a hill on its western part which may be seen 7 or 8 leagues. You may anchor at the S.W. side, and

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procure water, which is got on the island; but this ought only to be done in case of necessity, as the piratical proas which lurk here about, have been known to assault and massacre the crews of boats, sent on shore to procure water at this island.* Near to Pulo Varela on the south and eastern sides, there are some islets and rocks, the largest of which is Anak Barellah, to the N. E. about a mile distant, having 7, 8, and 9 fathoms water between it and the principal island; and 1 mile north from Anak Barellah, lies a rock with 17 fathoms close to it, having a channel 2 miles wide with 10 to 16 fathoms, between it and others, named Mid Channel Rocks, situated 5 miles N. E. by N. from Pulo Varela, or nearly midway from the latter, towards the islets which front the south end of Pulo Sinkep. These channels to the northward, between Pulo Varela and the small islands contiguous to the South end of Pulo Sinkep, seem to be safe, with soundings from 10 to 16 fathoms water, by giving a birth to the rocks and the islets which bound the N. W. part of the passage; but the channel to the southward of Pulo Varela is wider, and that mostly frequented by ships. TANJONG BON, or JABON, which bounds it on the south, is in lat. 0° 59½′ S. bearing S. by W.½ W. 10 miles from Pulo Varela, and like other parts of the East coast of Sumatra, is formed of low land.

Directions.

In passing through the South channel, keep in 11 or 12 fathoms toward Pulo Varela, to give a birth to the bank of hard ground projecting from Tanjong Bon, and from thence along the coast to the westward, which is steep from 6 or 5 fathoms; but in working, it may be approached occasionally, with care, to 8 or 7 fathoms. Being through the narrow part of the passage between Tanjong Bon and Pulo Varela, which is about 6 or 6½ miles wide, a course N.W. by W. should be steered for the Calantigas, keeping along the coast in 9 to 12 fathoms; with a working wind, the Sumatra coast may be approached to 6 or 7 fathoms. In this track, the tides must be particularly attended to, for they are often irregular, sometimes setting out of Jambee River to the N. Eastward 2½ or 3 miles per hour: and the Coast Bank to the westward of Tanjong Bon to the distance of 4 or 5 leagues, is nearly dry at low spring tides in some places, 4 or 5 miles from the shore..

Pulo Serah, or Reef Island, in lat. 0° 38½′ S., distant about 5 leagues N. Westward from Pulo Varela, is a flat low island, sometimes mistaken for the latter, in coming from the northward. Some rocky islets called Anak Serah, lie about 2½ miles N. by E. from Reef Island, with a safe passage between them, and also between Anak Serah and the coast of Pulo Sinkep. When steering toward the Calantigas, the southernmost of these islands must not be brought more westerly than N.W. by N., until Reef Island is bearing to the southward of E. by S., to avoid the SPEKE ROCK, which the ship of this name struck upon. This danger bears S. E. from the South Calantiga distant 6 miles, and W. ¾ N. from Reef Island, having 10 fathoms water close to it; and a small black rock is sometimes visible, about the height of a boat, over the submerged part. Betwixt the Speke Rock and Reef Island and also between the former and the Calantigas, there is a safe passage on the East side of these islands, by rounding the northernmost at any convenient distance, or about 1½ mile off, in 6 or 7 fathoms. The soundings in this passage are generally from 7 to 9 fathoms muddy bottom, sometimes sand, but the western channel is preferable.

Geo.Site of Calantiga.

Directions.

CALANTIGA, or ALLANG TEEGA, in lat. 0° 29′ to 0° 31½′ S., lon. 104° 5′ E., bearing nearly N.W. by W. from Pulo Varela distant 10 leagues, are three high islands extending about 3 miles nearly N. 15° E. and opposite, and having some islets contiguous to them. The three principal islands are high, and may be seen 8 leagues, and the others, 4 or 5 leagues from the deck. There are 7 fathoms close to these islands, and ½ a mile off the North end of the southernmost, lie two rocks, each about the size of a long boat: when bear-

* The ship Herculus, was attacked by 17 large proas near this place, and narrowly escaped being taken by them.

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ing N. N. E. and N. by E., the islands are in one with each other, and they open when the southernmost bears N. by W. ½ W. Having approached these islands, they may be passed on the West side at 1 or 2 miles distance, the depths will be mostly from 64½ to 8 or 9 fathoms mud in the fair channel: in working, the coast may be approached to 6 fathoms, and from this depth to 8 or 9 fathoms toward the islands is a fair track, although the soundings are not always regular, 7 fathoms being the general depth directly west from the islands until near the main land.

Having passed the Calantiga, a course about North and N. ½ W. should be steered for the southernmost of the Three Brothers, bearing N. ½ W. distant about 22 leagues: the Sumatra coast may be approached in working to 8 or 9 fathoms in some places, but the spit that stretches out from Tanjong Bassoo, to the N. Westward of the Calantiga, being steep to, ought to have a birth in passing. The best guide, is to keep in 14 to 16 fathoms, taking care not to deepen above 18 or 19 fathoms to the eastward, particularly as the distance from the Calantiga is increased, for the ground on that side is foul and improper for anchorage

Geo. Site of Tanjong Bassoo.

TANJONG BASSOO, or BACCOWN, in lat. 0° 20′ S., lon. 103° 48′ E., distant 19 miles N.W. by W. from the Calantigas, projects far out to the eastward from the other low land, by which the Bay of Indigiri is formed on the north, between it and Tajong Barroo; into which bay, the River Indigiri disembogues through several channels, fronted by an extensive shoal which fills the southern part of the bay. The outer edge of this shoal extends from Tanjong Bassoo in a N. N. E. and N. by E. direction full 3 leagues, being very steep to, having 10 or 11 fathoms within ½ a mile of it in some places, then quickly 5 or 4 fathoms, to l½ or 1 fathom upon it; which requires great caution in attending to the lead, when approaching this part of the coast in the night.

TANJONG BARROO, or DATTOO, in lat. 0° 1′ N., bearing from Tanjong Bassoo North a little easterly, distant 7 leagues, forms the N. Eastern boundary of lndigiri Bay, and may be approached within 1½ mile occasionally in working, or to 8 or 9 fathoms. From this low headland the coast stretches N. by W. and N. N.W. towards the Straits of Dryon, fronted by a shoal bank, which may be approached by the soundings; from its edge, they gradually decrease to 6, 5, 4, and 3 fathoms.

Three Brothers.

THREE BROTHERS, extend nearly North and South about 6 miles, the southernmost being the largest and highest, about a mile in length, may be seen at 6 leagues distance, and lies in lat. 0° 34′ N., lon. 103° 48′ E.: there is a white cliff or rock on the N. E. side, which makes this island remarkable. The Middle Brother is not so high as the southern one, and from its north point, lies North about 1½ mile. The North Brother is smaller and lower than the others, and is sometimes called the Round Brother: it lies to the N. N. Westward of the middle one about 3 miles; and betwixt them, there is a safe passage with 11 to 17 fathoms water, now frequently used. Ships passing through it, should haul close round the Middle Brother, to give a birth to the rock above water, situated at the extremity of a reef of straggling rocks, that projects from the North Brother about a mile to the S. E., and is partly dry at low water; but there are gaps of deep water between the rocks in some parts.

Between the South and Middle Brother, there is also a safe passage about 2/3 of a mile wide, with soundings in it from 9 to 12 or 13 fathoms; and both these islands may be approached pretty close all round, except at the South point of the South Brother, rocks project considerably.

EASTERN BANK, bounding the channel to the eastward of the Brothers, is composed of hard sand, having irregular depths on it from 6 to 4, 3, 2, and 1½ fathoms, with 10 and 12 fathoms close to its western edge. From the North Brother, its southern extremity bears

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East southerly about 5 miles, and its western edge extends from thence about N. by W. ½ W. 3 miles, rounding afterward to the North, and N. Eastward.

Great and Little Durian.

GREAT and LITTLE DRYON, or DURIAN,* situated about N. by W. and N. N.W. from the Brothers, separated from each other by a narrow creek, are two high islands, bounding the straits on the N. E. side, False Durian (to the westward of the Brothers), and the contiguous islets, bound the straits on the S.W. side, and has a peak on it; but the conical peak of Great Durian, being higher than any of the other land, is first discerned in coming from the southward.

As the islands hereabout have a similar appearance, strangers ought to be careful in coming from the southward, not to mistake one for the other, for some ships have not been able to discern the proper passage.†

To sail toward the Brothers;

When the peak of Great Durian is seen bearing about N. ½ W. or N. by W., you will be in the fair track, steer for the South Brother, which in one with Great Durian Peak, bears N. by W. The channel betwixt the Eastern Bank and the North Brother is about 4 miles wide, having various depths from 15 and 16 to 10 or 11 fathoms. The channel to the westward of the Three Brothers, betwixt them and False Durian, has from 8 to 14 fathoms water, and is equally safe as that to the eastward of them, although not so wide.

and through the eastern channel.

TO SAIL through the EASTERN CHANNEL, a birth of 1 or 2 miles may be given to the South and Middle Brothers, by rounding them in 10 or 12 fathoms, and on drawing near the North Brother, give a proper birth to the reef that projects from it to the S. Eastward, but care must be taken not to stand far over toward the Eastern Shoal. This will not be approached too close, if the beach on the Middle Brother be kept well in sight from the deck; or in working, if you get on the edge of the overfalls in standing to the eastward, immediately tack, and stand toward the Brothers to 10 or 11 fathoms. When the southern point of Great or South Durian is approached, three islets near it, called the Tombs, will be discerned, and Sabon Hill bearing about W. 20° N. making like two islands, which may be mistaken for the Carimons. Having passed the North Brother on the East side, at 1½ or 2 miles distance, haul to the westward, giving a birth of 1 or 1½ mile to the Tombs and the southern part of Durian, as some rocks under water lies about a large ½ mile to the S. W. of the Tombs.

To sail through the western Channel.

TO SAIL through the WESTERN CHANNEL, after the South Brother is approached, steer to the westward of it at 1½ or 2 miles distance, and proceed to the northward in 8 to 12 or 14 fathoms, about mid-channel between the other Brothers and the eastern part of False Durian, to avoid the foul ground contiguous to the Brothers, and the rocky islet contiguous to the East end of False Durian.

Having cleared the Brothers by either of these channels, Passage Islands will be seen to the N.W., which are two small islands on the East side of the passage, having a flat island on the West side of the passage called Prince's Island, opposite to the North Passage Island. There is a channel to the eastward, betwixt the Passage Islands and Little Durian, which is not frequented, not being so convenient as the former; but in a case of necessity, you may sail betwixt any of these islands, giving them a birth of 1 mile, as their points are generally rocky and foul ground.

* Great Durian, is called Pulo Sanglar by the Malays.

† H. M. ship Buffalo, in October, 1803, coming from the southward, and not being able to discover the proper passage, she got to the eastward of Great Durian, then stood to the northward amongst the islands, betwixt Durian and Pulo Mogo to the westward, and Pulo Soogee to the eastward, through Salat Mogo, a safe passage with regular soundings, 6 fathoms mud, the least water; although no navigable passage amongst these islands to the eastward of Durian, was formerly thought to exist.

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and to passage Islands.

After leaving the Brothers, steer for the Passage Islands; in mid-channel, the depths will be generally from 17 to 22 fathoms. When they are approached, Red Island will be discerned, which lies about 6 miles north from the North Passage Island, and known by two islets to the N. E. of it, called the Twins. There is a safe passage, with care, in day-light, between the Middleburg Shoal and Red Island, but as a sunken rock lies W. by S. ½ a mile from the latter, and the depths being from 17 to 26 fathoms, with some overfalls, the channel to the westward is preferable. There is a narrow passage with 15 fathoms water betwixt Red Island and the sunken rock just mentioned; also a passage close on the East side of Red Island, but as rocks lie about a mile N.W from the Twins, and others to the E. S. E. of Red Island about ½ a mile, which bound this passage on the East side, it ought not to be attempted by a stranger.

Middleburg Shoal.

MIDDLEBURG SHOAL, situated nearly mid-way between Red Island and.Pulo Booroo, the large island that fronts the Sabon shore, is about ¼ mile in extent, steep to, on both sides. When the two Passage Islands are nearly in one, they are in a line with the shoal bearing S. 34° E.,* the rocks on it are dry at ½ ebb, and with a good look out, it will generally be visible at high water. From the centre of the shoal, Red Island bears E. 15° N., Sabon Peak W. 15° N., and the peak of the Little Carimon about N.W. by N., the Twins then open considerably to the North of Red Island. If the passage to the eastward of the shoal be adopted, the best track is about mid-way betwixt it and Red Island in 19 to 16 fathoms mud, which channel is 2 miles wide, from the Middleburg Shoal to the shoal or sunken rock detached about ½ a wile from the N.W. part of Red Island, having 19 and 20 fathoms close to it on the West side, and 15 to 19 fathoms in the narrow passage betwixt it and Red Island. The country ship, Warren Hastings, passed between Red Island and this detached shoal, March 31st, 1789, at 11 A. M.: when in mid-channel between Red Island and a reef of rocks to the westward of it, they bore E. by N. ½ N. and W. by S. ½ W., about a large mile distant from each. This narrow passage ought not to be followed; and the other between the Middleburg Shoal and the reef to the West of Red Island also requires care. When the Middleburg Shoal is conspicuous, you may borrow toward it with a commanding breeze; otherwise, it will be prudent to keep mid-channel between it and Red Island. The peak of Great Durian bearing S. E. ½ S., or the northern Passage Island in one with the West end of the peak of False Durian, will lead fair through the channel betwixt Red Island and Middleburg Shoal. In working, do not bring the peak of False Durian above a ship's length open to the westward of the northernmost Passage Island, nor nearer to the reef off Red Island, than to bring that peak nearly on with the southernmost Passage Island. Here, the tides are very strong, between Middleburg Shoal and Red Island, the flood setting to the southward, and the ebb to the northward, from 3 to 4 knots on the springs, high water about 5 hours at full and change of the moon.

To sail from Passage Islands,

to the Little Carimon.

The channel to the westward of the Middleburg Shoal is preferable, being about 2½ miles wide, with mostly regular soundings from 16 and 17 fathoms close to the shoal, decreasing gradually toward the Sabon shore over a bottom of soft mud, proper for anchorage. When clear of the North Passage Island, haul to the westward for the Sabon shore, then steer about N. N.W. along it, in 7 fathoms, which will lead in the fair track betwixt that shore and the Middleburg Shoal. In working, do not deepen above 8½ fathoms, as there are 9 fathoms very near the western edge of the shoal; but the Sabon shore may be approached to 5½, or to 5, or even 4½ fathoms in a small ship. After steering along the Sabon shore in abort 7

* Lieutenant Boyce, of the Nautilis, sent his boat to the shoal, and when upon a patch of 4½ feet rocks, the two Passage Islands were in one bearing about S. 29° E., Sabon Peak W. 15° N., Red Island E. 14° N., the southern Twin about a ship's length open with Red Island, and the same distance from the other Twin. Perhaps these bearings are not very correct, arising from the motion of the boat.

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fathoms until Red Island bear East or E. by S., edge out a little, about N. by W., or North, and deepen to 10 or 12 fathoms; continuing to keep in these depths, steer to the northward, taking care to give a good birth to the South end of the Great Carimon, for a bank of 2¾, 3, and 3½ fathoms sand and mud, projects 2½ or 3 miles out from the South point of that island. When abreast of this point, the distance of 4 or 5 miles should be preserved from the East side of the Great Carimon, and the Little Carimon may be rounded at any convenient distance, if bound to the northward.

The bank of sand off the South end of the Great Carimon, extends N.W. by N. about 5 miles, with 4 and 4½ fathoms on it in most places, and 2¾ on the western part; betwixt which and the shore there are 5½, 6, and 7 fathoms. About 2 miles S. E. from the S. E. point of the Little Carimon, there are 3¾ fathoms on another bank, which stretches in a S. E. direction, nearly joining to the former bank, and the general depths on it are from 4 to 5 fathoms.

Sabon and the adjacent Islands.

SABON, is the principal island on the West side of the channel, and lies nearest to the Great Carimon, but the whole of the western shore from False Durian to the Carimons, formed of numerous low islands, is generally called the Sabon shore; for they are separated from Sabon, and from each other, only by very narrow channels, and therefore, appear as one continued island; and of these, Pulo Booroo, fronting the Sabon shore, is the largest, having Pulo Pandan, two small islands, about a mile to the north of it, and near to the N.E. end of Sabon.

Rocks, partly dry at ½ tide, project from the Sabon shore about ½ a mile, with Sabon Hill bearing West to W. ½ N., which is easily avoided by edging out a little. This hill or peak cannot easily be mistaken, being the only hill on the West side of the channel to the southward of the Great Carimon; which island has on it two high peaked hills, and the Little Carimon, one. The latter, is the northernmost of the islands on the West side of the channel, and together with the Great Carimon, are much higher land than any of the islands to the southward. All the islands adjacent, to the straits of Dryon, are covered with trees, and the whole of the N. E. part of Sumatra, is woody, and low land.

Strait of Sabon, Mandol,

STRAITS of SABON, and MANDOL. are very intricate, and never attempted by European navigators. The former is contiguous to the West sides of False Durian, Sabon, and the Great Carimon; that of Mandol, is along the Sumatra coast, having part of this coast, the Islands Mandol, and Pantjoor, and the entrance of Brewer's Strait on the West side; and several islets and reefs on the East side, which separate it from Sabon Strait. As both these straits are bordered by reefs, with shoal water in some places, they appear to be only navigable by proas or small vessels.

and Brewer's.

BREWER'S STRAIT, or SALAT PANJANG, is a narrow arm of the sea, which extends from the former straits to the westward; and joining Siak River, falls into Malacca Strait nearly opposite to the town of that name, by which the coast of Sumatra, to the westward of the Carimons, is formed of several islands. Pantjoor is the largest, and with the others, is considered by navigators as the main land. Although Brewer's Strait is narrow, there is said to be good depth of water in it, but it is only navigated by the country proas.

To sail from Carimons to the southward through the straite of Dryon.

IF BOUND to the SOUTHWARD, through the Straits of Dryon, steer from the Little Carimon about S. S. E. ½ E., observing not to come under 9 or 10 fathoms until past the South extreme of the Great Carimon, which ought to have a birth of 4 miles on account of the shoal bank. When this extreme bears W. by N., or when the strait between it and Sabon is fairly open, haul in S. by E., or South, until in 7 fathoms, then keep along the Sabon shore in this depth, which will carry you in the fair channel, to the westward of the Middle-

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burg Shoal. In working, deepen not above 8 or 8½ fathoms abreast of the shoal. When Red Island is bearing N. E. by E., and the Twins nearly on with its South point, you will be clear to the southward of Middleburg Shoal, and should haul over gradually for the Passage Islands. Leaving Prince's Island to the westward, and the two Passage Islands to the eastward, the depths will be irregular from 16 to 22 fathoms; and being through this channel, steer for the westernmost of the islets off the South end of Durian, called the Tombs, keeping nearest the eastern shore. The Tombs must have a birth of 1 mile in passing, for the sunken rocks to the S.W. of them, ought not to be approached too close: the depths in this part of the channel are irregular, from 17 to 26 fathoms. If to proceed through the western channel, betwixt the Brothers and False Durian, steer for the East end of the latter, and pass about mid-channel between it and the North Brother: proceeding to the southward, continue to keep in about mid-channel, between the other Brothers and the East side of False Durian; but with a working wind, either side of the channel may be borrowed on.

To pass to the eastward of the Brothers, after rounding the Tombs, steer East or E. by S., keeping 2 miles from the North Brother in passing it on the North and East sides, where the water will shoal to 12 or 13 fathoms; then steer about S. by E., attending to the set of the tide, to pass the Middle and South Brothers at the same distance, not borrowing nearer to them than 10 or 12 fathoms, With a working wind, care must be taken not to stand too far over toward the Eastern Bank, but tack immediately, if irregular soundings are got on the overfalls near it; nor stand so far out, as to sink the beach of the Middle Brother from the deck. The depths in this channel will be mostly from 10 or 12 fathoms near the Brothers, to 16 or 18 fathoms near the overfalls on the edge of the Eastern Bank or Shoal.

BEING abreast of the South or Great Brother, about 3 miles distance, steer South or S. by W. until the Brother is brought to bear N. N.W.; and whether you have passed to the eastward or westward of the Three Brothers, after having brought the South Brother to bear N. N.W. or North, steer for the Calantiga's about a South and S. by E. course, and endeavour to keep in from 14 to 16 fathoms. With a working wind, the best track is to stand to the eastward until in 17 fathoms, about mid-channel; and into 12 fathoms toward the Sumatra shore; but not under this depth, in passing Tanjong Barroo, and Tanjong Bassoo, as the shoal fronting the latter is steep to, with 8 to 14 fathoms near its edge. After passing Tanjong Bassoo, the coast may be approached occasionally to 6 or 7 fathoms; but the best track with a fair wind, is about mid-ehannel betwixt it and the Calantiga's, or pass to the westward of these islands about 2 or 2½ miles, at discretion.

Having passed the Calantiga's, the southernmost of these islands must be kept to the northward of N.W. by N. until Reef Island bears East or E. ½ N., to avoid the Speke Rock, bearing S. E. from the South Calantiga; the proper track is, to keep along the Sumatra Coast in 9 to 12 fathoms, in steering from the Calantiga's to Pulo Varela, borrowing to 6 or 7 fathoms toward the coast, with a working wind. Great care is, however, necessary, if running here in thick weather, or in the night, on account of strong tides setting into, or out of the rivers; for the Princess Charlotte, at 1 A. M. April 11th, 1813, steering S. E. by E., shoaled suddenly from 14, to 8 and 5 fathoms, then grounded on a bottom of sand and mud, on the great bank that fronts the coast to the westward of Tanjong Bon and Pulo Varela, opposite to the mouth of Jambee or Sambir River. At day-light Pulo Varela bore E. N. E., Lingin Peak N. N. E. ½ E., Tanjong Bon S. E. by E. ½ E., the Sumatra shore distant about 2 or 2½ leagues, observed lat. 0° 55′ S. Having grounded at high water, the tide fell from 18 to 10 feet, and with every exertion, by rafting the spars along side, starting water, and throwing 1332 bags of rice overboard, to lighten the ship, she could not be floated off until the 15th, four days after she grounded on the bank.

Pulo Varela, bears about S. E. by E. 10 leagues from the Calantiga's, and may be passed about 2 or 3 miles distance in 10 or 12 fathoms; but the spit surrounding Tanjong Bon, on

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the opposite side of the channel, although steep from 5 fathoms, may be approached to 7, or even to 6 fathoms in working.

From Pulo Varela to Batacarang Point, at the entrance of Banca Strait, the course is about S. S. E. ½ E. 22 leagues, and the whole of the bank fronting the coast, is in this space very flat, with regular soundings upon it; the best guide, therefore, is, after leaving Pulo Varela, to keep along the coast in from 5½ to 7 fathoms, until Batacarang Point is approached; and 6½ or 7 fathoms are the proper depths to preserve, when passing this point and entering into Banca Strait, to avoid the Frederic Hendric Rocks, on the East side of the channel: with a working wind, the point may be approached to 5½ or 5 fathoms.

DIRECTIONS for SAILING through the STRAITS of DURIAN, and PHILLIP'S CHANNEL.*

Directions from the Little Carimon to the southward.

A SHIP being abreast of the Little Carimon, with its North end bearing West from 2 to 2½ miles, the course is S. S. E. ½ E. with a fair wind, which will carry her clear of the Mud Banks fronting the low land of the Great Carimon, in soundings from 7 to 8 fathoms, until the North end of Pulo Pandan is on with the North end of Sabon, then the strait between the Great Carimon and Sabon will be open. With a working wind, from the Little Carimon, the soundings are the best guide in standing towards the mud banks fronting the Great Carimon, which ought not to be approached under 6 fathoms, and in this line of soundings the Little Carimon will bear N.W. ¾ N.: the depths in the offing ark from 14 to 16 fathoms, mud.

When the strait between the Great Carimon and Sabon is open, the soundings become irregular, and here, caution is requisite with a working wind, as the tides set strong through this strait to the westward at times. When the North end of Pulo Pandan is on with the North end of Sabon, and distant from the former 3 miles, in 7 fathoms, a course S. by E. will carry a vessel clear of the mud bank that fronts Pulo Booroo, and mid-way between it and the Middleburg Shoal, till the North end of Red Island is on with the South end of the South Twin, and the soundings will be irregular, from 5 to 9 fathoms.

Pulo Booroo.

Bank.

Directoins.

Pulo Booroo is a low island, about 4½ miles in length, crowned with high trees, and having a few inhabitants, who collect great quantities of mangostans, durians, and other fruits, which flourish here in a wild and luxuriant state. Fresh water may also be got with convenience. From Pulo Pandan, a bank extends along the eastern shore of Pulo Booroo to the distance of about ¾ of a mile, with several rocky reefs on it, dry at low tide; and here the soundings are very irregular. In working, a vessel may stand out to a moderate distance at discretion, but she must not approach the shore of Pulo Booroo nearer than 1 or 1¼ mile, in 5 to 6 fathoms. The mud bank extends southward as far as Deep Water Point, a projection of the Island Sabon, about 5 miles to the S. S. Eastward of the South end of Pulo Booroo; and the soundings decrease regularly on the edge of the mud bank, when the South end of Pulo Booroo bears West, which has a small isle called Clay Island, covered with straggling trees, close to this end of Booroo, and appears to join to it. With this bearing, the mud bank may be borrowed on to any depth at discretion. In standing off towards the Middleburg Shoal, go not farther towards Red Island, than to bring the West end of the North Passage Island to

* By Lieutenants Collinson, Hawkins, and Moresby, of the Bombay Marine, who, by the instructions of the government of Prince of Wales Island, examined these straits, and made an excellent survey of them, and the passage towards Banca Strait, in 1822 and 1823, which surveys have been engraved, and placed for disposal with Messrs. Kingsbury and Co., No. 7, Leadenhall Street.

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touch the East end of South Passage Island, when the North end of Red Island is on with the bluff headland, which transit line leads to the northward of the shoal, and when the North end of Red Island is touching the South end of the Twin, which transit leads to the southward of the shoal: with these bearings you will be distant ½ or ¾ of a mile from the shoal, in 10 or 11 fathoms, towards which the water deepens, it being steep to, all round. To prevent being horsed upon it in light winds, caution is requisite, as the tides run here from 3 to 4 miles an hour at times, with strong ripplings, liable to prevent a vessel from steering.

Middleburg Shoal.

MIDDLEBURG SHOAL, is a reef of coral rocks 300 yards in extent, of circular form, partly dry about 1 foot above the sea at low water spring tides, its sides being almost perpendicular, with 7 and 9 fathoms close to the rocks, and from 17 to 20 fathoms about 200 yards off. When on the centre of the shoal, the Passage Islands were in one, their East ends bearing S. 33° 15′ E. by Theodolite, a rocky islet with a tree on it off the North end of Red Island, nearly on with the North brow of the North Twin, the Twins open to the northward of Red Island, the South end of Red Island N. 75° 57′ E., Sabon Hill N. 74° 39′ W., Clay Island W. 1° 42′ N., Peak of Great Durian S, 47° 42′ E., and the Peak of False Durian S. 27° 14′ E.

Passage East of it.

The passage between the Middleburg Shoal and the patch of rocks off the West end of Red Island is 2¼ miles broad, with irregular soundings from 16 to 22 fathoms: with a fair wind, the best leading mark is, to keep the East end of the North Passage Island on with the Peak of False Durian, and stand no nearer the Middleburg Shoal, than to bring the East end of North Passage Island on with the West end of South Passage Island, nor nearer to Red Island than 1 mile, when the West end of South Passage Island will be on with the peak of False Durian, in 25 or 27 fathoms.

Rocky Patch.

The small patch of rocks ½ a mile W. by S. from the South end of Red Island, is dry at low tide, with deep water all round, and between it and the island. When on the centre of the patch, the N.W. brow of Red Island is on with the South end of the North Twin, and the East end of South Passage Island very little to the eastward of the peak of False Durian.

Geo. Site of Red Island.

Rocks.

Rocky Islet.

RED ISLAND, by observations taken upon it, is situated in lat. 0° 50′ 50″ N., lon. 103° 38′ 15″ E., or 3° 16′ 50″ East from Prince of Wales' Island by chronometers. Variation by Theodolite 1° 56′ E. High water at 10 hours on full and change of moon, and the tide rises 10 or 11 feet. This island is of an oblong shape, covered with trees, of moderate height, and may be seen at 15 miles distance. The passage between it and the Twins, ought not to be attempted, for in mid-channel lies a dangerous rock, level with the surface of the sea at low water spring tides, and the soundings are irregular, affording no guide. When upon this rock, the N. E. end of Red Island is on with the South Peak of the Great Carimon, and the centre of the Twins N. ¾ E. From the West end of Red Island, North ¼ of a mile, there is a small rocky islet with a tree on it, environed by rocks dry at low water, between which and Red Island there are depths of 15 and 16 fathoms.

Twins.

Rocky Shoal.

The Twins, two small islands, situated a large mile to the N. E. of Red Island, bear N. N. E. and S. S.W. of each other, are of round form, and of moderate height. Distant ¾ of a mile to the N.W. of the North Twin, there lies a dangerous and extensive rocky shoal of coral, dry at low water spring tides, having from 10 to 17 fathoms all round: when upon it, the North Passage Island bore South, the N.W. end of Dolphin's Island (a rocky point) a little to the West of the Peak of Great Durian, and the East end of Red Island S. 11° W.

Dolphin's Island

Shoal.

Dolphin's Island is about 1¼ mile in extent,* fronted by a coral reef projecting 200 yards from it to the westward, near to which the water deepens irregularly from 13 to 20 fathoms. There is a shoal to the westward of Dolphin's Island 400 yards in extent, of an oval form,

* The North end of Pulo Mogo, approaches near to Dolphin's Island, from whence it extends S. Eastward nearly to Great Durian, it being a high large island.

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steep all round, and dry at low water spring tides. When on the centre of this shoal, the South end of Red Island bore N. 20° 48′ W. by Theodolite, the centre of North Passage Island S. 4° 17′ W., the S.W. point of Dolphin's Island on with a sandy point of Pulo Mogo, Sabon Hill N. 74° 21′ W., distant from Dolphin's Island 1 mile.

Directions.

When clear of the Middleburg Shoal, as the straits to the southward are free from danger, a direct course may be steered for the eastern end of False Durian; the Passage Islands, and also Prince's Island, a low flat island near the western shore, may be approached to any convenient distance. The soundings throughout are very irregular, decreasing towards the western shore, where there is good anchorage.

When distant 1¼ mile from the N. Westernmost and largest of two rocky islets which lie off the N.W. end of False Durian, and it being on with the peak of the latter, there is a bank of hard sand and stones ¾ mile in extent, having 4½ fathoms the least water on it, and from 10 to 6 fathoms close to; and when on it, South Passage Island is in one with the North end of Little Durian.

Tides.

In standing towards the South end of Great Durian, come no nearer the Tombs than 1 mile, when the South Passage Island will bear N.W. by W. ¼ W., as a small reef of coral rocks lies ½ a mile from the South Tomb, near to which the soundings are from 20 to 29 fathoms. The best anchorage in this part of the straits will be found near the eastern shore of False Durian, in 12 to 14 fathoms, ¾ of a mile off shore. With a working wind, keep near False Durian, where the tides are much stronger than in mid-channel; but throughout these straits the tides are very irregular, rendering it difficult to ascertain either their direction or velocity. In August and September, the rise and fall was found generally to be between 10 and 11 feet, sometimes running from 3 to 4 knots per hour during the springs, at other times not more than 2½ knots at the same period. This irregularity, appears to be produced by the prevailing winds in the North or South entrance of the straits, forcing the tides through in one direction, for 12 or 18 hours at a time, although the rise and fall on the shore was regular. But sometimes the tides run with regularity.

Ripplings.

The ripplings might be alarming to a stranger; they appear to be caused by the uneven bottom, and the resistance the tides meet with, from the steep reefs and numerous small islands.

Phillip's Channel described.

Directions.

PHILLIP'S CHANNEL, or the N.E. ENTRANCE of the STRAITS of DURIAN, formed between the eastern shore and Long and Round Islands, appears to be free from danger, with good anchorage, and is a short route for vessels proceeding to, or from Singapore. Long and Round Islands being lined by rocky reefs, ought not to be approached under ¾ of a mile: if standing to the westward of the South end of Round Island, go no farther in that direction than to bring the N.W. end of Long Island on with the centre of the Rabbit, as four rocky reefs lie to the S.W. of Red Island. When upon the S. E. end of the southern one, Red Island is in one with the Rabbit, and the centre of Round Island bearing E. 5° S.: between the latter island and these shoals the soundings are irregular.

Cap Island.

Cap Island, named from its appearance, is a rock about 40 feet in height, with a flat top, and perpendicular sides, surrounded by a reef to the distance of about 300 yards, near to which the depths are 10 and 11 fathoms, with 14 fathoms a little farther out. It would be imprudent to pass to the eastward of Cap Island, as a reef of rocks is situated between it and the bluff headland to the eastward.

Pulo Doncan.

Sunken Rocks.

Pulo Doncan, about 4 miles to the southward of Cap Island, are two low woody islands, fronting a deep bay, which is formed by a group of beautiful islands, some of which are inhabited: as Pulo Doncan is environed by reefs, it ought not to be approached nearer than a mile.

Tree Island.

TREE ISLAND, or REEF, at the western entrance of the Straits of Singapore, is

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formed of sand and rocks, with two small trees on it, which are all that is visible at high water spring tides, as the sand is then overflowed. The reef projects out from it to the N. W. nearly a mile, with 9 and 10 fathoms close to the rocks. From the South brow of the Rabbit, off Barn Island, the N. W. part of the reef off Tree Island, is on with the North Peak of the Great Carimon bearing S. 80° 27′ W. Between Tree, and Red Islands, there are two sunken rocks, that nearest Tree Island being distant 1 mile from the S. E. Tree, and bearing S. 83° E. from that tree, and from Red Island N. 54° 53′ W. nearly 2 miles, the North end of the latter being on with the North end of Long Island, and the South brow of the Rabbit bears N. 71° 15′ E. from this rock, which is about 30 or 40 feet in circuit, with not more than 3 feet on it at low water spring tides: the depths close to it are from 7 to 10 fathoms, and a little way off it from 15 to 20 fathoms.

The other, thought to be the KENT ROCK, is longer than the former, distant from it ½ a mile, and has 1½ fathoms on it at low water spring tides; from which the S. E. tree on Tree Island bears W. 9° 24′ N. about 1¼ mile large, the centre of Red Island on with the North end of Long Island S. 57° 41′ E., and the South brow of the Rabbit N. 64° 55′ E.: the soundings near it are from 5 to 10 fathoms, deepening quickly to 15 and 16 fathoms. The places of these rocks may easily be perceived when the tides run strong, by the strong ripplings over them;* observing, that the danger is situated in the smooth part, close to the break of the rippling. These rocks render the passage between Tree Island and Red Island, narrow and unsafe, and it ought not to be attempted in ships.

Sailing Directions.

TO SAIL from the Straits of Durian, by PHILLIP'S CHANNEL, toward the Straits of Singapore; after having passed the Middleburg Shoal, either to the eastward or westward, steer direct for Cap Island, which bears N. E. by N. from the centre of that shoal, and N. N. E. ¼ E. from the centre of Red Island, taking care to give a birth to the rocky shoal that lies to the N.W. of the Twins nearly a mile distant, described in a preceding page; and in passing to the westward of Pulo Doncan, approach not nearer than a mile, on account of its contiguous reefs. From hence Cap Island will be seen, which bears North 4½ miles from Pulo Doncan, the soundings are from 12 to 17 fathoms. When abreast of Cap Island, Long, and Round Islands, the Rabbit and Coney may be distinctly seen, and a direct course may be steered, to pass in mid-channel between Round Island and the eastern shore, which is 3½ miles wide; and the soundings are from 17 to 22 fathoms. Long, and Round Islands, must not be approached under ¾ of a mile, on account of the reefs that surround them. After passing these islands, Singapore will be seen, and a course ought then to be steered for St. Johns, giving a birth to the Buffalo Rock, and a patch of rocks to the S.W. of the latter, a little above the surface of the sea.

STRAIT OF MALACCA.

1st. DESCRIPTION OF WINDS AND CURRENTS: DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING INTO, OR OUT OF THE STRAIT.

Navigation of Malacca Strait.

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION of the prevailing winds, and currents, near Achen Head, and the Nicobar Islands, is given in Volume First of this work, under the head of "Directions for the Outer Passage, to places on either side the Bay of Bengal, &c." and directions

* Small fishing boats may often be seen on these rocks.

VOL. II. Y

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for sailing to, and from Achen and Malacca Strait, are given under the title "Directions for Sailing from Bengal, Madras, and other parts of the Bay, &c." and also in the section before it, some instructions will be found. Farther directions, with a more particular account of winds and currents at the entrance of the strait, have been given in this present volume, under the title "West Coast of Sumatra," in Section 1st, where Achen and the circumjacent islands are described; and here, it seems necessary, to give a brief summary of the winds and currents which prevail inside of the strait; with some additional instructions for sailing into, or out of it, when ships come from, or are bound to, the Coromandel Coast, or Ceylon.

S.W. monsoon.

S.W. MONSOON, prevails outside of Achen Head from April to October, and seldom blows far into the strait, particularly near the Sumatra side, for the force of the monsoon, being repelled by the mountains and high land stretching from Achen along the coast of Pedir, it is succeeded by light variable winds and calms, with sometimes land breezes, or hard sudden squalls from the Sumatra Coast in the night, which require great caution. A ship passing Pulo Rondo with a strong S.W. monsoon, will be liable to lose it when she gets to the eastward of Pulo Way, and brings Achen Head in the direction of the wind.

To enter the strait by the Pedir Coast.

Some navigators, prefer the track from Pulo Rondo along the coast of Sumatra to Diamond Point, and from thence to Pulo Varela and the Arroas. Sometimes, speedy passages have been made by this route, both early and late in the season and a ship adopting it, should keep close along the Pedir Coast, to benefit by the land and sea breezes, which are found to blow only near the shore, the latter, not farther than a few miles from it: light airs and calms likewise, prevail greatly in the offing, and the current generally setting strong along the coast of Pedir to the westward in the S.W. monsoon, a ship will probably be drifted about, or carried back toward the entrance of the strait, unless she keep close to the coast, where there is anchorage in many places within 1 or 2 miles of the shore.

Route along the Malay side preferable.

This track is now, however, nearly exploded, for exclusive of the prevailing light baffling winds and westerly currents, it is also subject to dangerous lightning, and sudden severe squalls from the land in the night. The route on the other side of the strait, adjacent to the Malay Coast, is therefore prefered, because, there is less lightning on this side, seldom any severe squalls, few calms; but generally variable winds, or land and sea breezes, and sometimes a favorable current, with regular tides near the land, as a ship proceeds to the eastward. The middle of the strait should, if possible, always be avoided, especially about Pulo Pera,* where calms predominate in the S.W. monsoon.

S. E. and Southerly winds, prevail much throughout the strait during the S.W. monsoon, but they vary frequently in every direction, although those between S. E. and S.W. generally predominate.

Sumatras.

SUMATRAS, or squalls from south-westward, are often experienced in the S.W. monsoon; also North-westers, or squalls from this direction, are then more common than in the other season. Sumatras generally come off the land during the first part of the night, and are sometimes sudden and severe,† accompanied with loud thunder, lightning, and rain; they are experienced throughout the strait, particularly in the vicinity of the Pedir Coast, and between Parcelar Hill and the Carimons. Here, they often blow for 6 or 8 hours at a time, either in a strong or moderate gale, the commencement being mostly sudden and severe; for in Malacca Road, where they generally begin between 7 or 8 P. M. and midnight, many ships part their cables, and some have been driven on the mud bank that lines the shore, by these squalls.

* Near this island, many ships have been six or eight days delayed by calms, during the S.W. monsoon.

† Ships are liable to lose top-masts in these squalls; one ship lost all her top-masts, the commander having been erroneously informed, that no squalls in Malacca Strait required precaution, excepting those which came from N. Westward.

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North westers.

To benefit by them.

NORTH-WESTERS, do not prevail so much as the Sumatras, and although most common in the northern part of the strait, between Achen Head and the Arroas, they sometimes blow through it to the Carimons; or even through Singapore Strait to Pedro Branco. These winds blow sometimes severe at their approach, but their strength soon abates; they are mostly preceded by a black cloudy arch, rising rapidly from the horizon toward the zenith, allowing not more than sufficient time to reduce sail after its first appearance; but at other times, the approach of these squalls is more slow. Like Sumatras, the North-westers are sometimes accompanied by thunder, lightning, and heavy rain. If a ship be at anchor stopping tide, during a calm or otherwise, and a black cloud begin to rise, indicating a Northwester, the anchor ought to be instantly weighed, if bound to the southward, before the squall reach her; as the first part of these squalls generally blow strong, she may find it impossible to weigh the anchor, and therefore be deprived of benefiting by them.

The passage through the strait, is greatly facilitated by running in the night, for steady breezes often prevail during the absence of the sun, when calms and faint airs are experienced in the day.

Remarks on the navigation of the Strait.

To persons unacquainted, Malacca Strait appears an intricate navigation, but as the channels are mostly spacious, with good anchorage, it is certainly not dangerous, if common prudence is observed. Many ships keep under way day and night, in most parts of the strait, and often pass through, without anchoring above once or twice. To persons a little acquainted, or even to strangers, there is little danger by keeping under way with clear weather during the night, in any part of the strait, except when passing the Two and a Half Fathoms Bank, between the Arroas and Parcelar Hill; passing Tree Island when coming from the northward; from thence to St. John's, if not very clear; and going out betwixt Pedro Branco and the reef off Point Romania. Ships which sail well, will gain ground during neap tides, with a moderate working wind in most parts of the strait, against the tide or current, if every advantage is taken of the favorable shifts of wind. If the wind is directly contrary, it may be found impossible to gain ground at times, even against neap tides, between the Arroas and Mount Mora, where they run with greater strength than in any other part of the strait. A stream anchor is very convenient for stopping tide, in most parts of the strait; and in calms, during the day, a kedge is sometimes sufficient for that purpose, where the tides are not strong.

N. E. monsoon.

N. E. MONSOON, may be considered the fair season through Malacca Strait, for the weather is then generally settled; seldom are any hard squalls experienced, and there is less thunder, lightning, and rain, than in the other season. Northerly and N. E. winds then prevail, particularly near the Malay side of the strait, breezes usually blow from that shore during the night. These North and N. E. winds, frequently blow strong betwixt Pulo Jarra and the islands at the North end of the strait; ships, therefore, coming from the southward, and bound into the harbour of Prince of Wales' Island in this monsoon, should, after passing Dinding, keep along the edge of the mud bank which lines the coast, that they may not be delayed in reaching the harbour with the strong N. E. winds and short sea, liable to prevail in the offing, when near Prince of Wales' Island.

Ships can proceed through the strait in both monsoons, whether bound to the northward or southward; but those going to the northward, generally make the quickest passages, and sometimes get through, without anchoring above once or twice.

Current and tides.

THE CURRENT, in Malacca Strait, where tides do not prevail, sets often to the northward; in the middle of the strait, it generally sets in that direction, from the Arroas to Junkseylon and Pulo Rondo, in both monsoons; but sometimes to the southward, along the Malay side, during the N. E. monsoon. In the entrance of the strait, betwixt the Pedir Coast, Pulo Bouton, and Junkseylon, the general course of the current is to the northward

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all the year round: but along the Malay Coast, and amongst the islands contiguous to it, regular tides mostly prevail. The current runs along the coast of Pedir, out of the strait to the westward during the S.W. monsoon, whilst it is setting to the northward between Pulo Rondo and Junkseylon; but close in with the Sumatra Coast, there are tides from Diamond Point to the S. Eastward. About the Arroas, the current sets often strong to the N. Westward, with a slack, or weak flood at times, setting to S. Eastward; from thence to the Carimons, regular tides prevail throughout the strait from one side to the other, and the ebb which sets to the N.W. runs longer, and is stronger than the flood. The flood sets to the S. E. as far as the Carimons, and between the North end of the Little Carimon and Tree Island, meets with the flood running in from the China Sea through Singapore Strait; after this junction, the flood sets to the South, toward the Straits of Dryon.

To sail from Madras or Ceylon, to Malacca Strait in the N. W. monsoon,

SHIPS from MADRAS or CEYLON, if bound to Malacca Strait in the N. E. monsoon, will be liable to have a tedious passage; they ought to tack at times with the favorable shifts, and if possible, keep well to the northward, to be enabled to pass between the Little Andaman and Car-Nicobar Islands, or through the Sombreiro Channel, if they come from Madras. Those which come from Ceylon in this season, will probably have a long passage of 20 to 30 days, even if they sail tolerably: they ought to keep well toward the South end of the Great Nicobar, in entering the strait, if the wind admit; but may enter it by the Surat Passage, if they fall to leeward of Pulo Brasse, and find difficulty in getting round the islands off Acheu.

During the strength of the N. E. monsoon, in December and January, it is frequently very difficult in an indifferent sailing ship, to get from Achen along the coast of Pedir to Diamond Point,* as the current mostly runs to the westward there, whilst it is setting to the northward in the offing; therefore, ships in these months, ought to stand off from the Pedir Coast, and endeavour to get in with Junkseylon Head, or near the islands on the Malay side, where favorable winds and land breezes will be found, to carry them along that coast to the S. Eastward.

and in the S.W. monsoon.

SHIPS bound from Madras in the S.W. monsoon, have the choice of passing to the southward of the Nicobars, or through any of the channels between these islands and the Little Andaman; the Sombreiro Channel being safe, and the most direct route, is preferable when observations are obtained; a ship ought to borrow toward the South side of the entrance in approaching it, because the currents near, and among these islands, run mostly to the northward in the S.W. monsoon. Ships which come from any part of the Coromandel Coast to the northward of Madras, should pass betwixt the South end of the Little Andaman and Car-Nicobar, and the same channel may be adopted by them in the N. E. monsoon, borrowing in either case, towards the windward shore; when through it, steer a course to give a proper birth to Junkseylon Head, and to pass Pulo Bouton at a moderate distance.

SHIPS from Ceylon, bound into Malacca Strait during the S.W. monsoon, should steer to pass nearly mid-channel between Pulo Rondo and the South end of the Great Nicobar, keeping in about lat. 6° 20′ N., when passing through the channel. If the weather be cloudy, and the wind strong from S. W. or S. S.W., borrow toward the islands off Achen, if the latitude is not known by observation, in case of a northerly current; but when the wind prevails from westward, the current sometimes sets southerly; great caution is, therefore, requisite, if the latitude is not known near the truth, when running into the entrance of the strait in the night, during dark blowing weather.

A ship bound to Acheu, in this season, ought to keep well to the southward, to fall in with

* The Surat Castle, got round Achen Head in December, 1807, and was nearly six weeks from thence to Diamond Point, and from the latter place, she got to Prince of Wales' Island in two days.

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Achen Head, then proceed through the Surat Passage, or preferable through the Bengal Passage, close round the North end of Pulo Brasse, and along the East side of that island to the road.

To enter the Strait, and proceed along the Malay side to the Arroas.

WHETHER the Sombreiro Channel, or that to the southward of the Great Nicobar be chosen, in order to avoid baffling light winds adjacent to the coast, inside of Achen Head, give a wide birth to the islands off it, and steer eastward for Pulo Bouton. By keeping well out from the land of Sumatra, and falling in with Pulo Bouton bearing about East or E. by sometimes brisk westerly winds will continue up to Prince of Wales' Island, when calms and faint breezes prevail near the coast of Pedir. This does not always occur, for light airs prevail at times, from the coast of Pedir directly across to the Malay side; it is, however, the preferable route, for considerable advantage is generally experienced, by avoiding the islands off Achen, and the coast of Sumatra, during the strength of the S.W. monsoon. When the winds are light and baffling from southward, a ship may sometimes be carried to the northward of Pulo Bouton in steering for it, by the northerly current prevailing in the entrance of the strait; but after approaching the islands on the Malay side, she will get to the south eastward along that coast without difficulty, and find there, N. Westerly and variable breezes. After passing to the westward of Pulo Bouton at any convenient distance, from 2 to 7 leagues, steer for the Sambilangs, if not bound to Prince of Wales' Island, keeping within a moderate distance of the coast, in soundings of 35 to 20 fathoms. With a working wind, the West side of this island may be approached to 10 or 12 fathoms, and the extensive mud bank that stretches along the coast from thence to Pulo Dinding, may be borrowed on, to the same depths, if the lead is kept briskly going; observing, that the water shoals rapidly on the edge of it when under 15 fathoms. This bank is all soft mud, and projects in some places about 3 and 4 leagues to seaward from the low coast of Perah; small vessels may borrow on it to 7 or 8 fathoms, but if the helm is put down in a large ship in 9 or 10 fathoms, when standing toward the bank with a fresh breeze, she will in some parts be in 7 or 8 fathoms before the sails are trimmed on the other tack.

After passing betwixt the Sambilangs and Pulo Jarra, at any discretional distance from either side, as circumstances require, with a fair wind, a S. S. E. course will be proper to get soundings on the western extremity of the North sand, or to get sight of the Arroas bearing to the S. Eastward. With a contrary wind, it is prudent to keep near the coast, from the Sambilangs a considerable way to the southward, then edge out, to round the West end of the North Sand, and get a sight of the Arroas; afterward, work near the edge of the sand to benefit by the tides, and preserve moderate depths for anchorage, borrowing on it occasionally to 10 or 11 fathoms,

To sail from the Strait, toward Madras or the coromandel Coast in the N. E. monsoon;

SHIPS from MALACCA STRAIT, bound to Madras or the Coromandel Coast, during the N. E. monsoon, should keep near the Malay side and the adjacent islands, until they reach Junkseylon; which, with the islands off its southern extremity, may be rounded at any convenient distance. From Junkseylon, a course to pass betwixt the Car-Nicobar and the South end of the Little Andaman may be adopted, if early in the season; or the Sombreiro channel may be chosen at discretion, if not bound to the northward of Madras; and in December and January, care must be taken to fall in with the coast a little to the northward of the intended port.

and in the S. W. monsoon.

Ships bound to Madras in the S.W. monsoon, must adopt the Sumatra side of the strait, keeping near the Pedir Coast, to benefit by the westerly or eddy current contiguous to it; they ought to go out by the Bengal Passage,* after reaching Achen, proceeding close along

*The Surat Passage, is not perfectly safe for large ships working out in the S, W. monsoon, which has been verified, by the loss of the ship Harriot of Calcutta, not along ago.

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the East side of Pulo Brasse, and rounding the islands at its North end. The passage will generally be tedious in this monsoon, after clearing Achen Head, although some ships have reached Madras in 14 or 15 days from that place, during the strength of the S.W. monsoon, by taking advantage of every favorable change of wind to get to the westward, and tacking with those changes as most expedient.

Also toward Ceylon during the S.W. monsoon.

SHIPS bound to Ceylon in this season, after clearing Achen Head, must endeavour to get to the South of the equator, giving the islands off the West coast of Sumatra a wide birth, if possible. Having got into S. Easterly winds, a westerly course must be pursued until on the meridian of the intended port; then a North course for it, may be followed, observing to fall in with the land on the West side of Point de Galle, if bound there; or with the south-east part of the island, if bound to Baticolo or Trincomale; for strong westerly winds, and easterly currents, prevail along the South coast of Ceylon during the S.W. monsoon. Ships seldom sail from Malacca Strait to Madras or Ceylon in this season, and it may sometimes be found impracticable to accomplish the passage, in those which sail indifferently by the wind.

and in the N. E. monsoon.

Where to make the Island, &c.

Ships bound to Ceylon during the N. E. monsoon, usually experience favorable weather, and a fair wind. In proceeding out of the strait, they may pass on either side of Pulo Pera at discretion, and borrow toward Pulo Rondo, or toward the South end of the Great Nicobar, as seems expedient; if they fall accidentally to leeward of Pub Rondo, they may pass safely through the channel formed betwixt the ledge of rocks lying about 2 miles to the southward of it, and Pulo Way. After taking a departure from Pulo Rondo, or the South end of Great Nicobar, a direct course should be steered to fall in with Ceylon to the north ward of Trincomale, if bound to that port. If bound to Point de Galle, Colombo, or the Malabar coast, the land should be made to the northward of the Little Basses, particularly in the night; for there, the lead, if kept going, will give sufficient warning before the land is approached too close. In day-light, you may steer direct for the Great Basses, if the wind blow steady at N. Eastward, allowing for a probable southerly current running along the coast; and, as this current generally prevails in the strength of the N. E. monsoon, along the East side of Ceylon, it is prudent, even in day-light, to fall in with the coast a little to the northward of the Great Basses; or to the northward of the Little Basses, when the wind hangs northerly, or when it inclines to be light and variable. After rounding the Basses, ships bound to the Malabar coast ought to keep close to Ceylon, as if they were bound to Point de Galle, or Colombo; and they ought to coast along nearly to the latter place, before they stretch off for Cape Comorin.

2d. COAST OF PEDIR, WITH SAILING DIRECTIONS ALONG THIS COAST TO DIAMOND POINT.

and adjacent coast.

THE NORTH PART of SUMATRA, called the Coast of Pedir, extends from Point Pedro, the northernmost point of the island, nearly E. ¾ S., about 44 leagues to Diamond Point, its eastern boundary. This coast is low in several places close to the sea, but the country a little inland is all very high, with some remarkable mountains.

TANJONG BATOO, generally called Point Pedro, situated about 4 or 5 leagues E. N. Eastward from Achen Road, terminates in a gentle slope, and is covered with large trees; the coast between it and Achen, may with safety be approached to 10 fathoms, but the point must not be borrowed on under this depth, as it is fronted by foul ground. Yet in passing Point Pedro during the night, it is not advisable to go outside of 16 or 17 fathoms, that Pulo Malora may have a proper birth to the northward; for this small island lies to the N. East-

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ward of Achen Road, and rather nearer to Point Pedro than to Pulo Way. Tanjong Batoo Pootie, is known by a large white rock off it, and bears E. 5° S. from Tanjon Batoo, distant about 4 leagues. Between these points lies Deep Bay, or Back Bay, having soundings of 20 fathoms in it, about 1 or 1½ mile off shore; but there is no ground, when the distance from it exceeds 4 or 5 miles, more particularly about Tanjong Batoo Pootie, the coast is nearly steep to.

Geo. Site of Pedir Point.

To sail from thouce

PEDIR POINT, in about lat. 5° 29′ N-, lon. 96° 10′ E., bearing from Tanjong Batoo Pootie S. 67° E., distant 5 or 6 leagues, may be known by some bushy trees on its extremity, by the Golden Mountain, which bears from it W. by S. ½S. nearly, and by the land trending from it to the S. S. Eastward. In sailing from Achen along this part of the coast, keep near it, where in most parts, you may anchor if necessary, for there is seldom any hidden danger above ½ a mile from the shore; and as the bank is steep to, with westerly and variable currents outside, here you are more liable to calms than in soundings, and may lose much ground by getting out of anchorage.

to the Read.

Pedir Point may be borrowed on to 10 fathoms, within ½ a mile; from hence, the course is S. S. E. and S. E. by S. to the road of Pedir, where the anchorage is in 10 fathoms, with the point bearing N.W., Golden Mount W. ½ N., and the entrance of the river (which is not conspicuous) S. ½ W. to S. S.W., distant 1½ or 2 miles: or small ships may anchor in 7 fathoms, about a mile off shore. Boats can enter the river at low water neap tides, but not until a ¼ flood on the springs, for then, there is a considerable surf on the bar. Pedir, exports great quantities of beetle-nut, cultivated here, and pepper brought from places of less consequence, which makes the trade of the whole coast take its name after this port. Pedir Village is in lat. 5° 22½′ N., and 26 miles East of the Golden Mountain, or in lon. 96° 15′ E,

Oujong Rajah Point.

Coast and villages adjacent.

OUJONG, or UJAM RAJAH POINT, bears from Pedir Point E. 16° S., distant about 12 leagues, and in working between them, you may stand into 12 or 14 fathoms, although in some places, these depths are not above ½ a mile from the shore; when near Oujong Rajah Point, go not under 20 fathoms, for contiguous to it, there is said to be foul ground. There are several villages along this part of the coast; Barrong, in lat. 5° 20′ N., about 5 or 6 miles E. S. Eastward from Pedir, situated near the entrance of a river, from whence the bushy tree on Pedir Point is just visible from the deck, has now become the chief place on the coast for trade, and is much frequented by Chulia vessels from the Coromandel coast. Burrong, is also called Gingham, but Gingham River stretches westerly from it toward Pedir. Ayerlaboo is an inconsiderable place, 3 miles eastward from Burrong, and Sawang, 4 or 5 miles farther, may be known by a grove of trees, very conspicuous. Merdoo, about 4 leagues eastward of Sawang, may be known by some huts and straggling trees, and a large tree on the point of the river, the entrance of which is not conspicuous; but a run of water, resembling a path in the valley between the hills, appears very plain in the rainy season. Sambelangan, about 2 leagues to the eastward of Merdoo, has a small fort on each side of the river, and lies in a bight betwixt Merdoo Point and Oujong Rajah Point; ships may anchor at any of these places, the coast being bold and safe to approach, but excepting Burrong and Sambelangan, these villages produce very few articles of trade. The anchorage at Sambelangan, is in 12 to 15 fathoms, with Merdoo Point bearing W: by N. Oujong Rajah Point E. by N., distance off shore 1 or 1½ mile.

Passangan Point.

PASSANGAN POINT, bearing from Oujong Rajah Point E. 13° N., distant 6 leagues, is bluff, known by a grove of cocoa-nut trees on its extremity, which is divided by the mouth of a river; the coast between these places is much indented, soundings do not extend off above 2 miles, and 8 or 9 miles eastward from Oujong Rajah, are very irregular; you then

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find a bank about 1 or 2 miles from the shore, with 10 fathoms on its edge all the way to Passangan. This bank, shoals gradually to the shore, but ½ a mile beyond its verge, there is no bottom at 50 or 60 fathoms.

Elephant Mountain.

Elephant Mountain, in lon. 96° 50′ E., called also Friar's Hood, bearing S.W. ½ S., when in one with Pansangan Point, is situated several leagues inland, and may easily be known by its abrupt and singular aspect; it will point out when Pansangan Point is approached, which may be rounded within the distance of a mile with the land wind, for although the sea generally breaks upon the point, there is no ground at 30 fathoms about 2 cables' lengths outside of the breakers.

Passangan River, falls into the bay, to the eastward of the point, off which, you may anchor in 15 to 20 fathoms about ½ a mile from the shore, with the point bearing W. by N.

Rocky Point and contiguous coast.

GUM GUMA, or Rocky Point, bears E. 5° N. from Passangan River, distant about 3½ or 4 leagues, and the soundings between them, do not extend far out: in working here, stand in to 20 fathoms, but not under this depth off Rocky Point (which is known by a clump of trees at its extremity, somewhat higher than the rest), as a reef projects from it.

Geo. Site of Tooloo-Samwoi Point.

TOOLOO SAMWOI POINT, in lat. 5° 13′ N., about lon. 97° 14′ E., is 2 or 3 leagues E. S. Eastward of Rocky Point, the coast between them very steep, having 25 fathoms about ½ a mile off, and the water shoals quick from that depth toward the shore. On the extremity of the former point, there is a square clump of trees, which makes it resemble an island when first seen.

Tooloo-Samwoi.

Caution requisite.

TOOLOO-SAMWOI, or Tulosamaway, in lat. 5° 10′ N., at the bottom of the bay to the S. Eastward of the point, is a place of some trade, where there is a fort and village near the mouth of the river. Ships which stop here to trade, or to procure water and refreshments, must be constantly guarded against the perfidy of the natives, and those of the other towns along this coast, who have been too successful, at various times, in surprising small ships or two-masted vessels, and massacring their crews.

If bound into the road, from the westward, round the point at any convenient distance, keeping the western side of the bay close aboard, if the wind be westerly; and anchor in 10 or 11 fathoms with the point N. 15° W., Passier Grove S. 74° E.; and the High Table Mountain to the S. W. of Diamond Point S. E. by S., about ½ a mile from the western shore.

Betwixt Tooloo-Samwoi and Diamond Point, lies the river and village of Courtay, or Curtoy, and the whole of this part of the coast is clear of danger, except when Diamond Point is approached; for a shoal, with 1½ and 2 fathoms on it, bears about W. ½ S. from the point, and North from the village Courtay, distant 2 or 3 miles from the shore. Close to this shoal on the outside, there are 11 fathoms, and between it and the shore, 5, 4, and 3 fathoms.

Sumatra coast from Diamond Point to the Arroas;

SUMATRA COAST, from Diamond Point to the Arroa Islands, is low and woody, fronting the sea, containing several rivers, towns, and villages, frequented seldom but by coasting prows, or other small vessels.

The flood sets along this coast to the S. E. and the ebb to the N.W., varying a point or two, according to the direction of the coast: the ebb is generally strongest, and of longer duration than the flood, but seldom runs above 1½ mile per hour, when the distance from the shore is considerable. The soundings along the coast, are somewhat irregular, with foul ground in many places under 30 fathoms; but outside of this depth, the bottom consists of mud, or mud and sand; and it is of the same quality, in the middle of the strait.

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with sailing directions.

Although the Malay side of the strait is preferable to the other, yet if a ship happen to be off Diamond Point with a steady N.W. gale, she may steer along the Sumatra coast at a moderate distance, toward Palo Varela and the Arroas. This route is shorter than the common one along the Malay side; and the best depths to preserve after passing Diamond Point, are from 30 to 36 fathoms, not borrowing under 20 or 25 fathoms toward the Sumatra shore, in working; but she may stand out into the middle of the strait, to any distance required.

The coast may be approached occasionally, in some places, to 12 or 14 fathoms, if you intend to anchor off any of the rivers.

3d. DIRECTIONS FOR THE N. E. COAST OF SUMATRA, FROM DIAMOND POINT TO BREWER'S STRAIT AND SIAK RIVER.*

Geo. Site of Diamond Point.

DIAMOND POINT, JAMBIE AYER, or TANJONG GOERE, in lat. 5° 17′ N. lon. 97° 33′ E.† by chronometers, forming the eastern extremity of the coast of Pedir, is low and woody, but the trees on it being of unequal height, and higher than those of the contiguous land, make the point appear like a low sloping island, when viewed at a considerable distance, although the ground is very little elevated above the sea at high water spring tides. A reef extends from the point about 1 mile in a northerly direction, having 3 fathoms sand on its outer edge, and shoaling gradually to the point; come no nearer the latter than 2 miles, nor under 12 fathoms in passing it, and the shoal to the westward; for the water shoals quick under this depth, to the westward of the point. This place is frequented in the fair season by fishermen from the coast of Pedir. Inland, to the S. S. Westward, there is a High Table Mountain, visible from the offing in clear weather.

Tides.

Soundings.

Although the tides along the Pedir coast are weak, and only perceptible near the shore (there being a current usually setting to the westward in the offing during the S.W. monsoon), they begin to run strong at Diamond Point, the flood to the S. Eastward, and the ebb to the S. Westward, about 2 miles per hour, and rise and fall 9 or 10 feet on the springs. At the western part of the coast of Pedir, it is high water about 10½ hours, on full and change of the moon; and at 12 hours off Diamond Point. The soundings are not very regular in the offing, the depths being from 20 to 35 or 40 fathoms, about 3 miles, to 5 or 6 leagues from the point; and soundings extend from hence across to Pulo Pera, from the latter to the Ladda Islands, and to Prince of Wales' Island. A little outside of Pulo Pera, there are no soundings.

Geo. Site of Prauhilah Point.

PRAUHILAH POINT, in lat. 4° 53′ N., lon. 97° 55′ E. by chronometer, bearing from Diamond Point nearly S. E. about 10 or 11 leagues, has a reef projecting from it about 3 miles to the North and N. N.W., upon which the soundings are very irregular; but between it and Diamond Point, they are regular at a small distance from the shore. There are 4½ fathoms mud, about 3½ miles from Prauhilah Point, on the north side of which, is the entrance into the river, almost dry at low water; but inside of it, there are 2 fathoms for several miles up, with a small fishing village a considerable distance from the entrance.

LANKSA BAY.

LANKSA BAY, distant about 7 leagues S. E. by S. from Prauhilah Point, formed by Oujong Byan to the northward, and Oujong Quala Lanksa to the S.W., is about 4 miles wide, containing numerous shoals, with narrow channels leading into the different rivers which fall into this bay. Near Oujong Quala Lanksa, lies Palo Telaggy Tujou, a small

* Chiefly from the exploration of this Coast, by Lieutenants Rose and Moresby, of the Bombay Marine, in the Company's cruiser, Nautilus, in 1822.

† It has been placed by some navigators, 12 or 14 miles more to the eastward.

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island about a mile in extent, having a channel about 300 yards wide, with 6 and 7 fathoms water, between it and Oujong Quala Lanksa. This island cannot be distinguished from the main land, in coming from the northward; the entrance into Lanksa River, bears from it about South, having a safe but narrow channel on either side of the island, although the best is from the N. E. between the island and Oujong Quala Lanksa, having 2½ fathoms the least water.

In the entrance of the river, there are two small islands, and the town is said to be at a considerable distance inside, containing a number of inhabitants, who cultivate rice, pepper, and rattans. There are only 3 fathoms, mud, about 6 miles distant from the bottom of the bay, and the reefs extend 3½ or 4 miles from the nearest land.

About 5 leagues S. Eastward of Lanksa Bay stands Oujong Tannaug, or Tamiang, the coast between them being safe to approach. having from 15 to 20 fathoms about 2 miles off shore, excepting a reef of breakers at Pulo Rouquit, and at Oujong Tannang, which project out about 1 mile.

Geo. Site of QualaBubon.

QUALA* BUBON, in lat. 4° 1′ N., lon. 98° 29′ E., is situated at the S. E. extremity of a deep bay, formed between it and Oujong Tannang, which is not easily perceived from the offing, as Pulo Tempelee, and Pulo Lampatuah, two large islands fronting the bay, appear as part of the main land, unless when close in shore. Between these islands, there is said to be a safe channel for small vessels, that leads to Kaya-la-pun River. From the mouth of Quala Bubon, a bank extends about 4 miles to the N. N. E. and Northward, having dry patches on it, with breakers in some places. About 4½ miles off the entrance of the river, the depth is 3 fathoms mud, and the tide rises and falls about 9 feet on the springs, high water at 3 hours on full and change of the moon.

About 4 leagues to the S. Eastward of Quala Bubon, there is an island close to Oujong Lankat-tuah, which is safe to approach, and forms the northern extreme of the concavity of the land where Delhi River is situated.

Geo. Site of Delhi River.

DELHI RIVER, in lat. 3° 46′ 30″ N., lon. 98° 42′ 30″ E., is fronted by an extensive mud flat to the distance of 5 miles in some places, upon which the depths decrease regularly. The mouth of the river is about ¼ mile wide, having only 4 feet at high water on some parts, but inside deepens to 2 fathoms: about 3 miles from the entrance, it has a sharp turn to the S. E. and becomes narrow, and after forming three very short turnings or reaches, having only 3 or 4 feet water in some of them, stands the town of Delhi, consisting of scattered huts, containing about 500 inhabitants, who cultivate some rice and pepper. Here the river is only 40 yards wide, and a fresh water stream descends always at this place.

Bulu China River.

Bulu China River's entrance, is about ¼ mile to the northward of Delhi River, and between them a sand bank, dry at low water, projects about 1 mile, having close to it 1½, 2, and 3 fathoms. The entrance of Bulu China river is about 300 yards wide, and much deeper than Delhi river, having 1 fathom on the bar at low water, with 3½ and 4 fathoms inside; and about 3½ miles up, this river branches off to the westward, having a communication with Delhi by a channel to the S. E., in which there are 1½ and 2 fathoms water. Here, the rise and fall of tide is from 8 to 9 feet, high water at 4 hours on full and change of the moon.

Tanjong Mattie.

From Delhi, to Tanjong Mattie, which forms the northern part of Battoo Barra Bay, the coast extends about S. E. by E., having regular soundings to 4½ fathoms, within 1½ mile of the low sandy beach that lines this part of the coast. Off Tanjong Mattie to the northward, the depth increases to 12 and 14 fathoms, and shoals suddenly to 5, 3, and 2 fathoms, on a sandy spit which projects about a mile from that point; and about 5 miles to the eastward

* Quala, is the name for River, Songy for Bay, Oujong or Tanjong for a Cape or Headland, and Goonoong for a Mountain or Hill, in the Malay language.

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of it, and the same distance to the northward of Battoo Barra, there is an extensive and dangerous sand bank, having upon it only 1 and 1½ fathoms; and there is a safe channel betwixt it and the main land.

Geo. Sito of Battoo Barra.

BATTOO BARRA RIVER, in lat. 3° 13′ 15″ N., lon. 99° 37′ E., and the coast for some miles eastward, is fronted by an extensive mud flat, having regular soundings on it, and it stretches out within 3 miles of the South Brother. The river is about 300 yards wide, and the soundings are regular to the dry banks at its mouth; where a little way inside, it forms into two branches, one to the eastward, and the other to the westward. About 1 mile up the western branch, is situated the town, where the Chief Rajah resides, apparently well inhabited; and on the banks of the eastern branch, stands another town, with a number of inhabitants: there are other towns, said to be situated farther up the river, all subject to the Rajah of Battoo Barra, who is tributary to the Rajah of Siak. They cultivate rice and rattans, and manufacture from China raw silk, small quantities of a kind of tartan, much esteemed by the neighbouring Malays. Opium, fire-arms, and gun-powder, appear to be in great request. Elephants abound inland, but the natives are ignorant of the method of catching them: horses are also plentiful, but neglected, on account of the heavy duty charged by the Rajahs, and European vessels having discontinued to visit this place for many years, owing to the perfidious conduct of the Malays, who have formerly cut off several vessels that touched here to trade. Nevertheless, the people of Battoo Barra, appear more industrious, and better inclined to trade, than is usually experienced with the other inhabitants of this coast; and they carry in their own proas to Prince of Wales' Island and Malacca, the rattans, pepper, or other articles produced here. Goats, and poultry, are plentiful at reasonable prices.

Geo. Site of Assarhan River.

ASSARHAN RIVER, in lat. 5° 1½′N., lon. 99° 52′ E., has a mud flat extending from its entrance about 7 miles to the N. Eastward, upon which the soundings regularly decrease. From hence to Reccan River, care is required not to approach the coast too near, as several mud flats extend to a considerable distance, upon the verge of which, the water shoals suddenly; particularly about 5 or 6 leagues to the S. E. of Assarhan River, fronting the Bay of Songy Lidang and its contiguous rivers, the flat extends 3 and 4 leagues from the shore at the bottom of that bay.

Reccan River Geo. Site.

RECCAN, RAKAN, or RUKAN RIVER, has at the entrance two islands, Pulo La lang Besar, in lat. 2° 10′ N., lon. 100° 37′ E., being the largest, from which the other, Pulo Lalang Kecheel, bears S. 16° E. about 2¾ miles, and there is a shoal channel between them, leading into the river: they are low, and woody, and not discernible above 10 miles distance. Having passed between these islands, and being a little to the eastward of them, the entrance into the river bears S. 36° E., which extends in this direction about 30 miles, then a small and shoal bank projects to the westward, called Banka: but the main branch takes a S. E. direction, and is called Tanah Putie River, having a town of the same name at the mouth of this branch, which is here, about 1½ mile wide, and said to take its rise from the mountains. It is shoal and dangerous, from the rapidity of the tides; although several large and populous villages are said to stand on its banks, subject to the Rajah of Siak.

The greatest breadth of the mouth of Reccan River is about 15 miles, and about 8 or 9 miles up it decreases to 4 miles, afterward to 2 miles, and continues this, breadth till it forms the two branches mentioned above. It is almost dry at low water spring tides, and rendered exceedingly dangerous by their excessive rapidity, of 7 miles per hour, producing a bore on the springs, and having a rise and fall of 30 feet.*

* The Nautilus anchored about 17 miles up the river in 6¼ fathoms, and while the ebb tide was running about 2 miles per hour, the Bore was seen approaching in three large waves, and the instant it touched the vessel, then lying aground in 4 feet water, it was past in less than a minute, and increased the depth to 2¼ fathoms.

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On the bank of the river, the Nautilus found a straggling village, from whence the inhabitants came off in great numbers, and entreated to be admitted on board, under the pretence of friendship, which was refused, excepting to a very few of them: and they afterward, without the least provocation, endeavoured to cut off one of the boats, which had got adrift by the excessive rapidity of the tide.

At the mouth of the river, it is high water at 6 hours on full and change of the moon, the rise and fall of tide about 26 feet, and here the velocity of the stream is about 5½ miles per hour, but it becomes much greater a few miles up.

Ougong Perbabean, and adjacent coast.

From Reccan River, the land of the eastern bank projects to the N.W., forming the headland called Oujong Perbabean, in lat. 2° 15′ N., from which a mud flat extends to the N.W. and N. N.W. about 11 and 12 miles, and upon this flat the soundings decrease regularly. When clear to the eastward of this bank, and having Oujong Perbabean bearing S. W. and Parcelar Hill N. 43° E., you enter upon the most dangerous part of this coast, which has various sand banks extending from it over to the South Sands, with gaps and narrow channels of mud soundings between them.

As the soundings afford no guide in approaching these banks, the depth decreasing suddenly upon them, it is necessary for a vessel intending to puss between them, to have a boat a-head sounding, and a good look out kept from the fore yard, for the shoal banks are plainly seen when the sky is clear in the day time.

Pulo Roupat; Geo. Site.

PULO ROUPAT North Point, called Oujong Bantan, in. 2° 6′ N., lon. 101° 42′ E., is bold to approach, having 30 fathoms within 1½ mile of the shore, and the eastern side of this island is bold until the entrance of Brewer's Strait is approached, then a mud bank extends out from the shore of Pulo Roupat about 5 miles. Between the north point of Pulo Roupat and Oujong Perbabean, an extensive shoal bank fronts the bight which embraces this part of the coast; and this bank, together with those in the offing, mentioned above, render this part of the Sumatra side of the strait very intricate and dangerous.

Brewer's Strait.

BREWER'S STRAIT, or SALAT PANJANG, the North Entrance, is formed between the main land of Sumatra and Pulo Bucalisse, Tanjong Jattee, the north end of the latter, being in lat. 1° 36′ N., lon. 102° 0′ E. The northern part of this strait is about 5 miles wide, with soundings of 8 to 15 and 20 fathoms mud; and about 8 miles from the entrance, on the western shore, the Town of Bookit Battoo is situated upon the banks of a very narrow river of the same name, not easily perceived, the houses being scattered among, and hid by the trees; but it may be known by a tree formed like an umbrella, near the entrance of the river.

At Oujong Ballai, a point of Sumatra about 3 leagues to the S. E. of Bookit Battoo river, the strait becomes contracted to 3 or 4 miles in breadth; and opposite to the point, is the entrance of the narrow strait called Salat Padang, affording a safe passage for boats, which is formed between Pulo Bucalisse and Pulo Padang. From Oujong Ballai, Brewer's Strait turns from a S. E. direction, to South, till opposite the mouth of Siak River.

Geo. Site of Siak River.

SIAK RIVER'S ENTRANCE, situated in lat. 1° 13′ N. lon. 102° 10′ E., on the western side of Brewer's Strait, is about ¾ of a mile wide, having a sandy spit nearly dry at low water, extending almost across, but leaving a safe, although very narrow channel, close to Oujong Liang, the eastern point of the entrance leading into the river; which becomes narrow with deep soundings inside, and is said to have its source in the mountains. The town of Siak is situated at a considerable distance from the mouth of the river, the Rajah of which is very powerful, his authority extending to Lankat, a town situated on the banks of Bubon River. The Nautilus anchored in 6 fathoms mud within ¼ mile of the mouth of Siak river, and found the time of high water at full and change of the moon to be 9 hours, the rise and fall of tide then about 12 feet, and the velocity 2¼ miles per hour.

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Brewer's Strait sontinued.

From the entrance of Siak river, Brewer's Strait extends S. S. E. to the western end of Pulo Rantow, where it contracts to 1 mile in breadth, with regular mud soundings from 8 to10 fathoms. Between Pulo Rantow and Pulo Padang, is formed a channel leading to the sea, called Salat Ringit by the natives, and said to be used only by boats. From the western end of Palo Rantow, the strait takes an easterly direction about 20 miles, with depths from 10 to 15 fathoms, till a small island in mid-straits is approached, on each side of which, the passage is practicable, taking care to avoid the stream of the island, as a mud flat extends from it to the westward about 2½ miles in the middle of the strait. From hence, the direction of the strait is to the S. Eastward, and after passing three small islands on the left hand, the southern entrance opens, off which there are a great number of islands.

The safest channel out, appears to be between Rantow Point and Pulo Senappoo, having regular, but shoal soundings of only one fathom at low water in some parts.

Geo. Site of Campou River.

CAMPOU RIVER, in lat. 0° 35′ N. lon. 103° 8′ E., is fronted by an extensive mud flat, almost dry at low water; and it is little frequented, on account of the rapidity of the tides, occasioning a bore at times, similar to that of Reccan River, which it resembles in several respects. In approaching the southern entrance of Brewer's Strait, the tides are greatly influenced by this river, producing a strong eddy round some of the islands, so that while the tide is running to the southward on one side of an island, it may often be found running to the northward on the other side. The rise and fall of the tide near the southern entrance of Brewer's Strait, is about 15 feet in some parts, with a velocity of about 3½ miles per hour, but much greater when near the entrance of Campou River.

Islands that form Brewer's Strait, and shoals off them.

The three islands, Pulo Bucalisse, Pulo Padang, and Pulo Rantow, which form Brewer's Strait, and also Palo Panjore, ought not to be approached, but with great caution, at their eastern sides, as they are fronted by an extensive mud flat, with dangerous sand banks, in some places, having only 1½ fathom water on them. And these form, what is usually called the Sumatra Bank, or Third Bank in Malacca Strait, to the N. Westward of the Carimons.

Geo. Site et Pulo Varela.

PULO VARELA, in lat. 3° 47′ N., lon. 99° 33′ E., bearing from Diamond Point S. 49° E., distant 140 miles, and about 6 leagues from the Sumatra shore, is high, and may be seen at 8 leagues distance. At its South end, in a little cove, water may be procured from a small run, but not always in sufficient quantity; and you may anchor at the S. E. part of the island in 12 to 18 fathoms, about a mile off, and procure plenty of fire-wood: off the N.W. point, lies an islet or rock, and another off the South end. Boats landing here, ought to be guarded against the perfidy of the Battoo-barra people, from the adjacent coast, who frequently lurk about it with a few proas, in search of plunder, or to dry their nets; and they have more than once, massacred, or carried into captivity, the crews of boats, which had landed here to procure wood and water.*

The depths of water near the island on the is side, are 18 to 24 fathoms, decreasing toward the Sumatra Coast, but not always regular, as several banks are known to exist here; of which, the following is dangerous.

VarelaReef

VARELA REEF, bearing W. ¾ S. from the island, distant 5 or 5½ leagues, has sometimes breakers on its southern part, from whence a long spit, or bank of sand, extends to N. N. Westward. The American ship, William, Capt. Bodin, September 2d, 1811, shoaled to 7 fathoms hard sand on this bank, and shortly after saw breakers bearing S. E. by E., which were brought to bear E. ¾ N., distant about 2 miles, when in one with Pulo Varela, the latter just visible from the deck, then in 12 fathoms water. Anchored afterward, in 7 fathoms on the bank, with the breakers bearing S. E. ½ E., and Pulo Varela E. by S., and

* In 1788, the boat belonging to the ship, Dadaloy, Capt. Richardson, was cut off at this island, where she was sent to procure water.

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after weighing, steered E. by S. 3 miles, then shoaling suddenly to 3¾ fathoms, steered W.N.W. and anchored in 6 fathoms, with Pulo Varela E. 2° N., a high grove of trees on Sumatra, thought to be at the mouth of Delhi River W.S.W.½ S., and the breakers S. S. E. After weighing a second time, steered E. by S. about 2 miles, and shoaling again to 3 fathoms, wore to the W.N.W. and N.W., deepening very slowly till Pulo Varela bore East, then had 7 fathoms, and steered N. E., increasing the depth to 9, 10, 12, and 13 fathoms in a few casts of the lead.

Banks, thought not dangerous.

There is a bank about 4 or 5 miles to the S.W. of Pulo Varela, on which the American ship, William, had 9 fathoms; and 10 miles to the W. S. Westward of the island, and 4 or 5 miles in a S. E. direction from Varela Reef, she had 9 fathoms on another bank; on a third bank, about 4 or 4½ leagues S. by W. from the same island, she had 9 and 8 fathoms, with soundings from 18 to 26 fathoms between them.

Another bank, bearing about N.W. by N. 3 leagues from Pulo Varela, is said to have only 2 fathoms on it, but 7 or 8 fathoms, appears to be the least water that has been found in the situation assigned to it. About 4 leagues to the N. Eastward of Pulo Varela, the depths are from 32 to 35 fathoms.

Geo. site of the Two Brothers.

TWO BROTHERS, bearing nearly N. N. E. and S. S.W., 4 or 5 miles from each other, are covered with wood, and much lower than Pulo Varela; the northernmost, called Pulo Pandan, is in lat. 3° 24′ N., about lon. 99° 49′ E., bearing from Pulo Varela S. E. ½ S., distant 8½ or 9 leagues. The southernmost, called Salanama, is largest; the soundings about 4 or 5 miles to the northward of Pulo Pandan, are 26 and 27 fathoms; but to the N.W. and westward of it, at the distance of 4, to 8 or 9 miles, the American ship, William, had from 7 fathoms the least water, to 9 or 10 fathoms, sometimes sandy bottom, at other times soft mud.

Sailing directions.

From Diamond Point, having proceeded along the Sumatra side of the strait, you may pass on either side of Pulo Varela, giving a birth to the reef, if you pass inside, then steer toward the Brothers, and pass to the northward of them, as the channel betwixt the South Brother and the coast is not frequented, being only 3 or 4 miles wide from this island to Battoo Barra Flat: besides, the passage outside, is more direct toward the channel formed between the Arroas and the North Sand. The Long Arroa bears about S. E. by E. 19 leagues from the Northernmost Brother, and after passing the latter, steer more easterly, to make the Arroa bearing well to the South, or to get soundings on the western end of the North Sands; then, proceed through the channel between the North and South Sands, toward Parcelar Hill.

Sumatra Coast and channels.

To Siak River, nearly opposite to Malacca, the coast of Sumatra has been already described; it is mostly all low land, covered with trees, and intersected by several rivers, and shoal banks stretch out a great way from the shore, in some places. The channel along this coast, to the southward of the Arroas and South Sands, has been found, by the late examination of the Nautilus, to be intricate and unsafe: the land being low and level, destitute of proper marks, no ship ought to adopt this channel; and a boat must be kept sounding a-head, if a ship be obliged to push through it in a case of emergency.

The East and West Channel, formed between the North and South Sands, from the Arroas to Parcelar Hill, and then betwixt the Malay Coast and South Sands, is frequented by ships of every description; and it is far preferable to the passage along the Sumatra side of the strait. It has been said, that 7 leagues W. by N. from the Long Arroa, there is a bank even with the water's edge, but most probably, no such bank exists.

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4th. MALAY SIDE OF THE STRAIT, FROM JUNKSEYLON TO PRINCE OF WALES ISLAND, WITH SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Malay Coast and Islands; directions for the Inner Passage.

MALAY COAST, between Junkseylon and Prince of Wales' Island, now occupied by the Siamese, is fronted by many islands of various sizes; and inside most of the groups, and between them, there are passages for small vessels, but large ships generally sail outside.

A small vessel proceeding from Junkseylon during the N. E. monsoon, may pass on either side of the outer groups to the S. E. of Pulo Panjang, as most convenient: the first of these, called the Vogels, is a group of small islands about 6 leagues from Panjang, with 14 and 16 fathoms water inside, and 25 to 30 fathoms outside of them.

The Pilgrims, is the next group, about 4 or 5 leagues farther to the S. Eastward, which is composed of very small islands, and bears nearly East, about 9 leagues from the Brothers, off Junkseylon. Some persons call the largest island of this group, Slipper Island, but Sapata or Slipper Island, seems to belong to a group of two or three islands, situated 4 or 5 leagues farther to the S. Eastward. The latter, are called Pulo Allang, by the Malays, but navigators give to the largest, the various names of Pulo Mohea, Tupia, or Slipper Island. Betwixt these islands, and many others which lie contiguous to the coast, the depths are from 20 to 12 fathoms; and there is good anchorage amongst them; some articles of refreshment may be got at Pulo Telibon, which lies close to the shore in lat. 7° 14′ N., where vessels may anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms, off its western side; but the harbour is narrow and requires care in entering it. From Telibon, a chain of high rocky islands, stretches along the coast to the North end of Pulo Trotto, having a good passage of 8, 9, and 10 fathoms water on the outside; and if bound to Queda, a small vessel may pass inside of the large islands Trotto, Lancava, Ladda's, between them and the main, in various soundings from 4 or 5 fathoms near the coast, to 8 and 10 fathoms, by keeping nearest these islands; for the shore opposite, is lined by a shoal mud bank, extending a great way over toward the islands. From thence, she may haul into 5 or 6 fathoms water near the coast, and anchor in 5½ or 6 fathoms, with Queda River's entrance E. by N. Northerly, Elephant Mount N. E. ¼ N., Boonting Islands about S. S. E., and the Rocky Islands, called Payers, or Peers, about 4 or 5 leagues to the westward, bearing W. by S. Southerly. There is very little trade here, since the establishment of the English at Pulo Penang, more particularly since it became subjected to the Siamese. Queda Town, in lat. 6° 6′ N., is built on both sides of the entrance of the river, which, although fronted by a mud flat, has sufficient depth of water within, for sloops and brigs to anchor, where the Rajah resides, about 10 or 12 miles above the town. The tide rises here, about 5 or 6 feet, and flows to nearly 12 hours at full and change of the moon. Elephant Mount, is situated near the shore, in lat. 6° 10½′ N., and in lat. 6° 21′ N. lies Parlis River, off which, the coasting vessels anchor in 3 fathoms, to the S.W. of four islands that lie near the main, and with a Haycock Mount bearing to the N. N. Eastward, as the mud bank lining the coast is here very flat. There are several rivers between Junkseylon and Queda; Phoonga to the S. S. Eastward of Junkseylon, is a river of some importance, where the Siamese build proas and boats at the town, which is a considerable way up the river. Trang River, inside of Telibon or Telibong, is also navigable by proas, or small vessels.

Little Passage.

LITTLE PASSAGE, is preferable to that last mentioned, inside of the principal islands; and if you intend to proceed by it, after rounding the Brothers at 3 or 4 miles distance, steer East and E. by S. for Pulo Mohea, which will carry you outside of the Pilgrims, and about 8 or 9 miles to the eastward of the Guilder Rock, if there be no oblique current.

Guilder Rock.

SANGALD, ST. GELDE, or GUILDER ROCK, in lat. 7° 10′ N., is a reef elevated about 2 or 3 feet above water, having 30 and 33 fathoms to the N. Eastward, and from 36

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to 40 fathoms water very close to it on the outside; it bears about South 5 leagues from the Pilgrims, and the same distance W. by S. ½ S. from Pulo Mohea, and requires great care, if soundings are got near it in the night, particularly, as it is said to be visible only in the N. E. monsoon, or dry season.

and other dangers adjacent to the Passage.

Having approached Pulo Mohea, it may be passed on the West side, at 4 or 5 miles distance, by which the Guilder Rock will have a birth of 3 leagues to the westward: from Pulo Mohea steer about S. E. by E. for Edam, which is the easternmost of three small islands of middling height, situated nearly mid-way between Pulo Bouton and Trotto; in passing betwixt Trotto and Edam, borrow on the latter, to avoid the Black Rock that lies 4 or 5 miles off the N.W. side of Trotto, nearly even with the surface at low water. There is also a dangerous reef of rocks fronting the S. E. end of Bouton, on which the sea breaks, having a passage with 16 fathoms water between them and Edam Islands, which may be chosen if necessary.

From Edam, steer S. Easterly for the S.W. end of the Laddas, which pass in 16 fathoms if the wind be North or N. Easterly; from hence, steer about E. by S. for the Peers, and pass to the westward of them, giving a birth of 3 miles to Rotta, the westernmost islet. Having passed the Peers, steer E. S. Easterly for the Boonting Islands, and pass them on the outside at a moderate distance, if bound to Prince of Wales' Island.

The passage between Trotto and the Laddas is also safe, with depths from 14, to 9 and 8 fathoms, and along the West side of the former, the depths are 7 and 6 fathoms near the shore: about 1/3 passage over from the S. E. point of Trotto, lies a Pyramidal Rock with 15 fathoms close to it, and near the point there is a smaller rock and an islet. Having passed these, borrow afterward near to the Ladda shore, to give a birth to the shoal mud bank that stretches from the main land far over toward the islands.

Lancava Islands.

Geo. Site of the Laddas.

LANCAVA, or LOUCAVA GROUP, consists of three large islands, and many smaller ones bordering them to the East and Southward; and they extend nearly N.W. and S. E. from the South part of Pulo Ladda,* in lat. 6° 8′ N., to the North end of Trotto in lat. 6° 49′ N. They are high bold islands, particularly Lancava the central one, which has on it a high peaked hill: there is also upon Pulo Ladda, to the S. Eastward, a peaked hill resembling the former, in about lat. 6° 21′ N., lon. 99° 50′ E., which is generally called Ladda Peak.

The Laddas, which form the South and East parts of the group, are high rugged islands, of barren aspect; and betwixt the two largest islands, situated at their southern extremity, there is a safe harbour, called Bass Harbour, by Captain Forrest. The channel leading to it from the N.W., is along the S.W. end of Lancava, where the depths are from 7 to 12 fathoms; and there are from 4 or 5, to 9 and 10 fathoms water, in the channel betwixt the islands leading into the harbour from the southward. The South part of Lancava, about 3 or 4 miles to the northward of Bass Harbour, is partly cleared, and inhabited by Malays and Chinese; but there being no trade at these islands, the harbour is not frequented.

Trotto, the northernmost large island of the group, has a cove or small harbour, at its N. E. end; and the channel that separates Lancava from this island, contains soundings from 8 to 14 fathoms, as mentioned above. About 3 or 4 leagues outside of these islands, the depths are from 24 to 30 fathoms, and close to them from 8 to 12, or 16 fathoms, but

* Captain Forrest calls the large central Island Pulo Ladda, which generally bears the name Lancava; and to the easternmost large island, commonly called Pulo Ladda, he gives the name of Lancaway. Strangers landing on any of these islands, ought to be cautious if they penetrate inland, for they may be liable to see some snakes, which are here very large. When the Princess Royal's boat landed on Trotto, the crew killed a snake 22 feet in length, the skin of which I afterward saw at Canton. These islands are a rendezvous for pirates, who are on the look out to attack trading proas or small vessels, when coasting along hereabout; and these freebooters have sometimes been known to lurk about the entrance of Penang Harbour.

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not very regular. There are tides among, and inside of them, but currents prevail frequently in the offing, setting mostly to the northward in the S.W. monsoon, and to the southward during the N. E. monsoon.

Geo. Site of Pulo Bouton.

PULO BOUTON, is formed of two large and high islands, very near each other, with some contiguous islets, and a reef of rocks off their S. E. extremity. The large islands are both high, and the easternmost is formed of a regular sloping pyramidal mountain, generally called Bouton Dome, which may be seen about 17 or 18 leagues. By mean of observations, taken when passing at various times, I made the Dome in lat. 6° 33′ N., lon. 99° 20½′ E.,* or 19½ miles to the eastward of the meridian of Pulo Pera; and the body of the two islands (which appear as one when seen from the westward) in lat. 6° 34′ N.

This group, is farther from the coast than any of the other islands which front the eastern side of the strait; the depths close to Pulo Benton, are from 17 to 26 fathoms; 3 or 4 leagues outside of it from 30 to 35 fathoms; and mid-way between it and Pulo Pera, generally from 40 to 50 fathoms.

Geo. Site of Pulo Pera.

PULO PERA, in lat. 5° 42′ N., lon. 99° 1′ E.,† is a high round barren rock, situated nearly mid-way between Diamond Point and the Coast of Queda, and may be discerned 6 or 7 leagues from a ship's deck. At leaving the strait, sometimes a departure is taken from this island, and when the weather is cloudy, during the S.W. monsoon, it is not unfrequently the first land seen after running into the entrance of the strait; for Pulo Rondo, or the South end of the Great Nicobar, is not always discerned in passing.

This island being steep to, with soundings from 40 to 50 fathoms very near it all round, should be avoided, in the S.W. monsoon, particularly; for then, calms and faint airs are liable to prevail in its neighbourhood, during which, some ships have been carried by the currents toward it at different times, and were obliged to anchor in deep water, to prevent being driven against the steep rock. The soundings to the distance of 5 or 6 miles from it, in all directions, are from 40 to 60 fathoms; but 6 or 7 leagues to the westward of it, there are none to be got with 60 or 70 fathoms of line.

Prince of Wales' Island.

PRINCE OF WALES' ISLAND, is called by the natives Pulo Penang, its centre bearing from Pulo Pera E. 13° S., distant 25 leagues, and the soundings decrease regularly from 45 or 50 fathoms near the latter, to 30 and 25 fathoms within 5 or 6 leagues of the former, which extends from lat. 5° 16′ to 5° 30′ N., being nearly 5 leagues in length, and 7 or 8 miles in breadth; the West coast forms a small indentation, with a space of woody low land fronting the sea, and two small islands adjacent to the S.W. point, the northernmost of which, is bold to approach, having from 5 to 7 fathoms very near it: opposite to this islet, water may be got, under a point of the principal island.

The N.W. end of the island is high uneven land, and excepting the South part, and the eastern side, where the town is built, and where there is a considerable track of low land cultivated contiguous to the sea, the rest of the island is all high, and covered with trees. When viewed at a great distance from the offing, it has a regular oblong appearance, discernible about 20 leagues in clear weather.

* Captain Heywood made it in lon. 99° 20′ E., by lunar observations and chronometers.

† From the S. part of Junkseylon, I measured 0° 38½′ E. by chron. to Pulo Pera, making it in 98° 58′

From Malacca 3 10½ W. do. do. 99 4¾

From the South end of Nicobar 5 1½ E. do. do. 99 1½ Meam 99° 1′ Lon.

From Golden Mount 3 12 E. do. do. 99 1

From Malacca, Captain Mackintosh 3 15 W. do. do. 99 0

From Madras, Captain P. Heywood 18 39 E. do. do. 99 0½

The mean of observations in my possession, taken by seven other persons, correspond with this mean, placing Pulo Pera in lon. 99° 1′ E.

VOL. II. A a

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About 5¼ miles directly West from the Fort Flagstaff, stands the mountain on which signals are displayed for ships approaching the island; by mean of trigonometrical, and barometrical admeasurement, I made it to be 2170 feet in perpendicular height above the level of the sea; and at a small distance from it, an adjoining summit appeared to be about 60 or 80 feet higher than the signal mountain.

This island was presented by the King of Queda to Captain F. Light, and taken possession of by him, in 1786, for the East India Company; the Company have also obtained a grant, of a considerable track of the main land fronting the island, which is all low near the sea, except a small hill a little inland, contiguous to Praya River.

Geo. site of the Fort.

Fort Cornwallis, is built on the N. E. point of the island, close to the town, which is called George Town by the Europeans, or Tanjang Panaique by the Malays, and twenty years ago, contained 4000 or 5000 inhabitants. The principal articles exported, are pepper, beetle-nut, rattans, tin, and some gold, brought here from the main, from Sumatra, Java, and other islands to the eastward, by the Malay proas; and for which they receive opium, piece-goods, arrack, dollars, &c. Water and fire-wood may be procured here, at moderate prices; also bullocks and poultry, are brought from the coasts of Perah and Queda, which sell high, and are scarce when the harbour abounds with ships. Most of the trade of Junkseylon, Queda, Sanlangore, and other Malay ports, is now concentrated here; and very little business can be done at any of those places.

The Flagstaff of the Fort, by good observations, I made in lat; 5° 24½′,* lon. 100° 21½′ E., by mean of lunar observations, and 2° 1½′ E. from the South end of Junkseylon by chronometers.

The harbour, is nearly 2 miles in breadth from the Fort Point to the main, with soundings of 12 to 14 fathoms in the middle, 6 and 7 fathoms near the Malay shore, and 9 or 10 fathoms near the Fort Point, which is pretty steep to. The best birth to moor in a large ship, is about ¼ mile to the southward of the point in 9 or 10 fathoms, and closer to the town in small vessels; as the tides are more regular here, than abreast of the point, where ships are liable to take turns in their cables, in tending.

Tides.

It is high water on the shore about 2 hours, on full and change of the moon, but the flood runs to the southward until near 3 hours in the middle of the harbour; the velocity of the tides, is from 2 to 3 knots during the springs, and the perpendicular rise, from 7 to 9 feet.

Directions l'er sailing into the harbour.

TO SAIL into the HARBOUR, all ships that come from the northward, approach it by the North, or Great Channel; and this channel, is preferable at all times for large ships, because the South Channel is dangerous to proceed through, without a pilot; or unless the navigator is acquainted with it, and his vessel not large.

If bound in with a westerly wind, steer for the North end of Prince of Wales' Island, which is high, bold, and safe to approach; if the wind is at N. E. or Northward, borrow toward the Ladda Islands and Peers, and after rounding them at 2 or 3 leagues distance, steer between S. E. by E. and E. S. E. for the BOONTING ISLANDS. These are of moderate height, four in number, with an islet between them; and they extend along the Queda shore nearly North and South, about 4 or 5 leagues to the northward of the North end of Prince of Wales' Island. Pulo Boonting, the northernmost and largest, lies opposite to the High Land or Peak of Queda, the second is called Sesson, the third Pangel, the southernmost Bidan, which is in lat. 5° 45′ N., and to the E. S. E. of it, is the River Marboo, having a bank of shoal water stretching from it close to Bidan: the deepest water inside of this island is 4 and 5 fathoms, 6 and 7 fathoms inside of the others; excepting Pulo Boonting, which has only 2 or 2½ fathoms inside of it, being nearest to the shore. These islands may be approached to 14 or 15 fathoms in the night, or to any distance thought proper in

* Captain P. Heywood made it in lat. 5° 25′ N. lon. 100° 21′ E. by mean of lunar observations, and 19° 59′ E. from Madras Flagstaff, by mean of chronometers in four different voyages.

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the day, there being no danger but what is visible. Having passed them, the course is about S. S. E., to keep mid-way betwixt the North part of Prince of Wales' Island and the main, for an extensive flat Bank or Bar, stretches from side to side, on which the deepest water is about mid-channel, or rather nearest to the Malay shore. The least water on this bank, is 4 fathoms at low water spring tides, very even soundings; yet, it is unpleasant passing over it in a large ship at low water, if drawing upward of 20 feet, particularly with much swell, but this seldom happens.

The N. E. point of the island, is about 4 miles to the N. West of the Fort Point, having at a small distance outside of it, the rocky islet Pulo Teecoos, with some rocks around; when abreast of this islet, the water deepens gradually toward the harbour. The bay formed betwixt the Fort Point and the N. E. Point, is occupied by a shoal mud flat, steep from 5 to 4, then 3 and 2 fathoms.

Steering toward the entrance of the harbour in day-light, Pulo Bidan, kept about N. by W. is a good mark: during the night, there is no danger running in, if the weather be clear, and the land distinctly seen; for in such case, even with a contrary wind, persons a little acquainted may work into the harbour without fear, as far as Pulo Teecoos, or even a little farther.

When passing over the fiat bank, between the North part of the island and the main, the soundings are not a sufficient guide, the depths being nearly equal from side to side, until either shore is approached within 1½ mile; therefore, in the night, attend particularly to the appearance of the land, to enable you to keep in the proper track. The shore of the main, being low, and covered with trees, will not be so conspicuous as the high land of the island; consequently, the latter will generally appear nearest, when you are in mid-channel between them.

When Pulo Teecoos is approached, the water will gradually deepen, as you are then over the shoalest part of the bank, and ought to make short tacks in working up to the harbour; for here, the channel becomes more contracted than farther out. The rocks that project a little way from Pulo Teecoos, are steep to, and may be approached to 5 or 5½ fathoms, at low water; and in 5½ to 6 fathoms, will be proper depths to tack from the edge of the mud bank that lines the shore of the island, from thence nearly to the Fort Point. In standing toward the main, tack when the depths decrease a little under those found in mid-channel; abreast of the fort, and 2 or 3 miles to the northward of it, about 7 fathoms is a good depth to tack in, from the Queda shore.

In the night, do not run amongst the shipping; unless well acquainted, anchor a breast of Pulo Teecoos, or betwixt it and the Fort Point, until day-light.

DEPARTING from the HARBOUR, large ships generally go out by the North Channel, even when bound to the southward, although this occasions a loss sometimes of one or two days, when Northwesters prevail in the S.W. monsoon. The directions given above, will answer either for sailing out, or in, by this channel.

South Channel and coutoguous banks.

A large ship ought not to adopt the South Channel, unless a good pilot be procured, for several ships have grounded on the sands which bound it, and were in danger;* navigators in charge of large ships, deeply laden, are therefore, in general, averse to go out by the South Channel.

On the West side, the South Channel is bounded by the Long Sand, which begins about ¾ of a mile to the southward of the Fort Point, and stretches nearly to the North point of Pulo Jerajah, having a small channel of 3, 4, and 5 fathoms water betwixt it and the western shore.

* The Lowajee, from Bombay, bound to China, going out by the South Channel, with a pilot on board, and drawing 21 feet water, got upon the Praya Sand nearly at high tide; here, she lay 12 hours, and strained considerably, by heeling off the bank, and the danger would have been great, had she not fortunately floated on the following tide.

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Pulo Jerajah, to the southward of the Long Sand, and adjoining to Prince of Wales' Island, extends about 2 miles to the southward, and is a high bold island, rising in a pyramidal form, betwixt which and the western shore, there are 5 and 6 fathoms water in the small channel continued from the inside of the Long Sand.

The East side of Pub Jerajah is bold, steep to approach, and forms the West side of the proper channel to the South of the Long Sand; farther southward, the S. E. end of Prince of Wales' Island, and Pub Ramio off it, bound the West side of the channel at its southern entrance, which are both safe to approach.

The South Channel is bounded on the East side by Praya Sand, the Middle Ground or Spit, and Kio Flat: Praya Sand extends about 2½ miles North and South, parallel to the Long Sand about ¾ of a mile distant; and the North end of it bears S. 15° E. from the Fort Flagstaff, distant about 2 miles, and is very steep to, having 9 and 10 fathoms at the distance of a cable's length: it should not be approached nearer than this distance, being the most dangerous part of the channel. Prays River extends a considerable way inland, with 2½ and 3 fathoms water at the entrance, which is about a mile N. Eastward of the North end of Praya Sand. The Middle Ground or Spit, is a narrow ridge of sand, stretching about N. N.W. within ½ of a mile of the East side of the Long Sand; the narrow space between them is called the Bar, having 3¼ and 3½ fathoms on it at low water, and the least water on the Middle Ground at low water spring tides, is 17 feet. The South ends of the Middle Ground, and Praya Sand, join; and both terminate in the northern extremity of Kio Flat, a very extensive mud bank, which bounds the East side of the channel front thence to seaward, and is named from Pub Kio, situated near the Malay shore. This fiat is a soft mud bank, stretching from the coast nearly to the S. E. end of Prince of Wales' Island, having from 2½, to 3 and 4 fathoms irregular soundings on its edge, where it bounds the East side of the channel.

Buoys, were first placed on the eastern edge of the Long Sand, on each end of the Prays Sand, and on the North point of the spit, to point out the bar and channel: these having been destroyed or taken away by the Malays, were afterward replaced by beacons, which are also sometimes wanting.

Remarks for proceeding by it to seaward.

SHIPS BOUND OUT, by the South Channel, generally weigh about ½ flood, and steer S. by E. and South, to enter the channel between the Long Sand and Praya Sand; when the bar is approached, it will be proper to keep near the eastern edge of the Long Sand, and the depth in crossing it is ¼ less 5, or nearly 5 fathoms at high water spring tides. When over the bar, a South course should be steered, the water will deepen instantly to 7 fathoms, and afterward shoal to 5½ fathoms betwixt the North end of Palo Jerajah and Kio Flat. When the North point of Pulo Jerajah bears to the northward, the depth will decrease to 6 and 7 fathoms, it will then be proper to haul near that island, and these depths will continue through the channel, in steering past the S. E. end of Prince of Wales' Island and Palo Ramio, to seaward. The greatest depths, are near the East sides of the islands, which are steep to; but on the East side of the channel, the water shoals suddenly upon the edge of Kio Flat. After passing Palo Ramio close on the East side, the course is about S. S.W. or S. by W., according to the set of the tide, to proceed through the fair channel, betwixt Kio Flat and the mud bank on the West side of the entrance.

The leading mark is, to keep the body of Palo Jerajah on with the East end of Palo Ramio, which will carry a ship fairly out: if Pub Jerajah is shutting in with Pulo Ramio, she will be in the West side; and if entirely open with it, she will be in the East side of the channel.

Information has been received from Prince of Wales' Island, stating, that the South Channel may be entered by ships drawing under 18 feet water, pilots having been lately stationed at Pub Jerajah, who will come out on the proper signal being made, and carry such ships into the harbour.

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5th. DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING FROM PRINCE OF WALES' ISLAND TO THE ARROAS, AND FROM THENCE TO PARCELAR HILL.

Sailing directions from Prince of Wale's Island, to the southward.

FROM the S.W. end of Prince of Wales' Island, Pulo Dinding bears nearly S. S. E.; distant about 60 miles, and the coast between them, which is mostly low and woody near the sea, forms a bight; but high mountains appear inland, in the kingdom of Perah. There are also some hills near the sea, to the northward of Pulo Dinding, which greatly resemble it in coming from that direction, and have therefore, been called False Dinding.

The whole of the coast of Perah is lined by a shoal mud bank, extending out from 2 to 3½ leagues; the depth decreases suddenly on the edge of it, when under 15 fathoms, but you may occasionally stand into 9 or 10 fathoms in working, with the lead kept briskly going; it would be imprudent to borrow under these depths, particularly in the night.*

If abreast of the N.W. end of Prince of Wales' Island with a fair wind, steer along the coast at a moderate distance, in soundings from 16 to 25 or 30 fathoms; in working, you may approach the island to 10 or 12 fathoms, and the edge of the mud bank that fronts the coast between it and Pulo Dinding, may be approached to the same depths, in the day time. By keeping in with the coast, the westerly current usually prevailing in the offing, will be partly avoided; the winds may be also expected more favorable, and if necessary to anchor occasionally, this can be done with more convenience, than in deeper water.

Pulo Dinding;

PULO DINDING, in lat. 4° 16′ N., is high and woody, situated near the main, and appears with a hill at each end, when first seen; close to it on the S.W. side, lies Little Pulo Dinding, with two islets at its western part near the South point, to the W. S. Westward of which, at 4 or 5 miles distance, there is a spit or bank of mud, probably not dangerous. We shoaled suddenly from 14 to 6½ fathoms on its edge, and although probably about 6 fathoms may be the least water on it, a proper birth ought to be given in passing. There is a shoal to the northward of Great Dinding, which is avoided by keeping out in 9 or 10 fathoms.

to sail to the anchorage.

At the East end of Great Dinding, there is fresh water near the ruins of a fort, where formerly the Dutch had a settlement. If you wish to procure water at this place, pass be twixt the northernmost Sambilangs and Little Dinding, where the depths are mostly from 20 to 26 fathoms. There is a rock above water, nearly mid-way betwixt Great Dinding and the Sambilangs, having a safe channel on either side, which is best avoided by attending to the tide, and steering close along the bold South shore of Dinding to the East point, where you may anchor in 8 or 10 fathoms close to the East of the point, or to the southward of it, as seems most convenient.

Sambilangs

Geo. Site of the southernmost

SAMBILANGS (NINE ISLANDS), situated to the southward of Dinding, extend 7 or 8 miles nearly N. E. and S.W.; they are mostly small, high bluff islands, covered with trees, and may be seen about 7 leagues. The South Sambilang, or outermost of these islands, is in lat. 4° 3′ N., lon. 100° 35′ E. bearing E. 5° N. from Pulo Jarra distant about 7 leagues. To the N. Westward of it about 1 or 1½ mile, there is a rock speckled black and white, which appears all white when the sun shines on it; and about 2 miles to the N. N.W. of the same island, and 1 mile from the former rock, there is a black rock, not much elevated above wa-

* The Alfred and True Briton, at 8 P.M. September 29th, 1799, grounded on the edge of the bank, not far to the southward of Prince of Wales' Island, the South point of it bearing N. N.W., Saddle Island N. N.W. ½ W., off the low land on the Malay shore about 7 miles. From that time, they were employed carrying out their stream and kedge anchors, and heaving the ships up to them each tide at high water, through the soft mild, until the 4th of October, when both ships got fairly afloat. This case, evinces the propriety of not making too free with the edge of the bank in the night. See the directions in Section I. for sailing into the strait.

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ter. These rocks should not be approached close in the night, being steep to, for the soundings near them, and 1 or 2 miles outside, are generally from 23 to 26 fathoms, and the same depths are found very near and amongst the Sambilangs. There is a safe channel inside of these islands, with soundings of 15 to 23 fathoms, and the channels betwixt some of them, are also safe, but rather narrow.

l'erahRiver.

PERAH RIVER, extends a considerable way into the country, having a wide entrance directly East from the Sambilangs, but the middle and South side of the entrance is very shoal, dry in many pieces at low water; the shoal flat, continues to stretch along the coast about Tanjong Ooloor (the point of land abreast of the Sambilangs), and from thence South, toward Salangore. The proper channel into Perah River, is to the S. Eastward of Pulo Dinding, by borrowing near the North point of the entrance, and keeping along the low bank on that side of the river, where the depths are irregular from 3 to 7 fathoms. The tides inside, have a velocity about 4 or 5 miles per hour during the springs.

Geo. Site of Pulo Jarra.

PULO JARRA, in lat. 4° 0′ N., lon. 100° 12′ E., bearing from the centre of Prince of Wales' Island S. 2° W., distant 27 leagues, is small, covered with trees, and may be discerned about 7 leagues. It is steep to, having from 33 to 36 fathoms very near it in every direction, and the same depths between it and Pulo Varela: mid-channel betwixt it and the Sambilangs, there are generally from 30 to 32 fathoms, decreasing to 25 or 26 fathoms near the latter islands.

Although a ship, may, at discretion, pass on either side of Pulo Jarra, the channel betwixt it and the Sambilangs is always prefered when circumstances admit, for the current often sets strong to the N. Westward in the middle of the strait, and calms are more prevalent there, than near the coast.

Geo. Site of Round Arroa.

ROUND ARROA, in lat. 2° 49′ N., lon. 100° 40′ E.,* bearing from the South Sambilang S. 4° E., distant about 24 leagues, is a high round rock, with some trees on it, and may be discerned about 6 leagues; having also several rocky islets near to it, two of which are visible 4 leagues, one of these being situated to the northward; the other to the southward, with straggling rocks around; and about 1½ mile S. S. W. from the Arroa, there is a rock above water, called the South Rock. The Round Arroa, is the principal mark for the West part of the East and West channel, betwixt the sands.

Long Arroa,

LONG, or GREAT ARROA, in lat. 2° 52½ N., bearing nearly N. W. ¼ W. from the Round Arroa, distant 6 miles, consists of two contiguous isles, is nearly 1 mile in length, covered with trees, of a flat appearance, and not so high as the Round Arroa. The Malay fishermen sometimes frequent these isles to fish, and procure turtle; boats landing here, ought therefore, to be on their guard. Water can be got in a cove with a fine sandy beach, on the East side of the southernmost of the two isles. The Locko, in 1787, sent her long boat to procure water, but the Malays, then residing here, would not allow the boat to have any, without payment.

Capt. Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, who surveyed these isles in 1819, says, a ship may anchor near enough to command the watering places with her guns.

April 30th, 1811, the William Pitt's boat landed here, and saw a small hut, which appeared to have been inhabited a short time before. Several springs of good water, descended in the deep valleys, which were lined on each side with cabbage trees; and the face of the island was covered with strong high-grass. They had 10 fathoms water almost close to the sandy beach, but the small islets which front the Arroa, are mostly united by reefs of sharp

* Capt. Ross made it in lat. 2° 48′ 15″ N., lon. 100° 38′ 15″ E.

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pointed rocks, few of which are visible at high water, or at the distance ships pass. The tide appeared to rise on the rocks, about 10 feet perpendicular.

and adjacent rocks.

The Arroas ought not to be approached in the night, on account of the rocks adjacent, one of which, called the East Rock, is a flat black rock, very little elevated above the surface at high water, and lies about 4½ miles N. E. by N. from the Round Arroa, and nearly East from the Long Arroa 6½ miles. West from the East Rock 1 ½mile, there is a sunken rock, covered at half flood, on which the sea sometimes breaks; the ship Seton, of Bombay, passed between this sunken rock and the East Rock, in 1796, and carried soundings from 17 to 11 fathoms. Nearly 2 miles West from this sunken rock, and 3¼ miles to the Eastward of the Long Arroa, there is another rock above water, called High Rock, fronted by other rocks to the N. Westward and S.W.; hut there are 9 fathoms regular soundings between this rock and the sunken rock east from it; and between it and the Long Arroa, the depths are from 7 or 8 to 10 fathoms, in a channel 2¾ miles wide. About 21 miles N. Eastward from the Long Arroa, there is a rock of considerable height above water, called the North Rock, with regular soundings very near the rocks that front it, 8 and 9 fathoms mud; and within a mile of the N.W. and North sides of the Long Arroa, the depths are regular from 9 to 11 or 12 fathoms. About a mile to the West and S.W. of the Long Arroa, there are several rocky islets, chained together by rocks, and called the Western Arroas, by Capt. Ross.

Channel to the southward of them.

Several ships have been set to the westward of the Arroas by currents, and lost much time, working with northerly winds round the long one, and the black rock off it, in mostly regular soundings, over a soft bottom. The Lowajee, and other ships, which fell to the westward of the Arroas, during northerly winds, went to the southward of them, and after passing the Round Arroa, hauled to the N. Eastward into the proper channel, having experienced various soundings from 7 to 11 fathoms to the southward of these islands.

Capt. Ross, observes, that if a ship happen to be working near the Arroas against a heavy N.W. swell, she will find shelter from N.W. or West winds, by anchoring under the Long or Great Arroa, observing, that a reef projects about ½ a mile from its north end to the N. N. E.

To sail from the Sambilange to the weshern edge of the North Sancks.

BEING about MID-CHAIVNEL, between Pulo Jana and the South Sambilang, or rather nearest the latter, to guard against westerly currents, steer about S. S. E., or S. 20° E., if you pass near the Sambilang, which will carry you well to the N. E. of the Arroas, but not too far on the North sands. Excepting a shingly spot in lat. 3° 20′ N., bearing South from the Sambilangs, with 13 fathoms on it, the soundings in this track are pretty regular, generally between 34 and 40 fathoms in a direct line from Pulo Jaffa nearly to the Arroas; and 24 to 30 fathoms in a direct line between the South Sambilang and western extremity of the North sands.

When the winds incline at East or E. S. Eastward, keep near the Malay coast, in soundings from 20 to 30 fathoms, until 8 or 10 leagues past the Sambilangs, then steer more southerly to get soundings of 16 or 18 fathoms on the N. Western verge of the North sands; and as there is no danger on the N.W. and Western edges of these sands, they may be rounded close, by borrowing occasionally to 14 or 16 fathoms, and edging out to 20 or 24 fathoms as circumstances require, until the Arroas or Parcelar Hill are seen.

North Sands

Qeo. Site.

NORTH SANDS (or NORTH BANK), are very extensive, consisting of various small patches or spits of sand, separated by considerable spaces of regular soundings from 8 to 12, 14, and 16 fathoms. There are many dangers on the eastern part of the North sands, adjacent to the coast; the middle and southern parts are also dangerous, but the N.W. and western edges may be approached with safety, if the lead is kept briskly going, The N.W. extremity of the sands are in lat. 3° 16′ N., lon. 100° 50′ E., and from hence most of the

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spits stretch S. S. E. ¾ E., and S. E. by S., the Two and Half Fathoms Bank, being the Southernmost danger of the North sands.

The depths decrease quickly in approaching the N. Western extremity of the North sands, from 28 or 26, to 10, 9, or 8 fathoms, on the spits that form this part, which bear N. N. Eastward from the Arroas, 8 or 9 leagues distant. On the spits which form the N. W. and Western boundary of the sands, there appear to be no danger; I have generally found the depths on the outer spits to be 9 and 10 fathoms, when standing upon them with a working wind; 7½ or 8 fathoms on the spits a little farther on the bank to the eastward; and from 11 to 14 fathoms in the channels between them. When the Round Arroa is seen from the mast-head bearing from S. S.W. to S. S.W. ½ W., you are on the N.W. edge of the North sands, and will pass over spits of 8 and 10 fathoms. Round Arroa S. S.W. ¼ W., seen from the fore-yard, we had 7¼ fathoms. Round Arroa from the fore-yard S.W.½ S., and Parcelar Hill E. by S. ¼ S., just visible from the poop, had 7 fathoms hard sand.

Directions.

As the spits which form the exterior boundary of the North Sands to the N. Westward, have 9 or 10 fathoms on their edges, it is advisable, when bound to, the southward with a contrary wind, to keep near the western edges of the sands in working, making short tacks to the westward, and standing on their verges occasionally to 10 or 11 fathoms in a large ship, or to 8 or 9 fathoms, in a small one. By this means, moderate depths will be found for anchoring during the ebb, with tides more regular, and more favorable, than farther out in deep water toward the Arroas; for here, during S. E. winds, a current is often experienced to set N.W. and westward, when tides are prevailing along the edge of the sands. It is high water about the Arroas, and near the western edge of the North sands, at 6 hours on full and change of the moon; the strength of the ebb tide sets generally between N.W. and N.W. by N., 2½ miles per hour, and it falls about 10 or 14 feet perpendicular; the flood sets in the opposite direction, about S. E. ½ S., slanting a little on the western edges of the North sands, or running nearly parallel to them, but it is not so strong as the ebb.

Although the northwest and western edges of the North, sands are not dangerous, it would be very imprudent to stand over toward the middle of them, on account of the Blenheim's Shoal, and other dangers lately explored by Capt. Ross; nor ought the southern extremity of the sands, usually called the North Sand Head, to be approached but with great caution, it being terminated by the Two and Half Fathoms Bank.

Shoal Banks and dangers on the North Sands.

Exclusive of the Two and Half Fathoms Bank, and Blenheim's Shoal, Capt. Ross, discovered several other dangers, and shoal patches, during his examination of these Sands, in 1819, of which, the following, seem to be nearest to the N.W. and Western parts, and consequently most in the way of ships which may happen to borrow too far in upon the sands.

Small Bank, with 4¾ fathoms, in lat. 3° 13½′ N., lon. 100° 52′ E. or 14 miles East from the meridian of the Round Arroa, and 4 miles to the S. E. of the N. Westernmost extremity of the sands.

Sandy Ridge, with 2 to 4 fathoms, extending 3 miles S. E. and N.W., or from lat. 3° 10′ N. to 3° 12′ N., its N.W. end being about 3 miles E. S. E. from the above Small Bank, and its S. E. end bearing North a little westerly about 6 or 7 miles from the Blenheim's Shoal.

Spit of Rocks and Sand, with only a few feet water, its N.W. end being in lat. 3° 9′ N., and about 2 miles S. E. from the Sandy Ridge, and it extends 3 miles S. Easterly, this end of it being about 4 miles N. E. from the Blenheim's Shoal.

Round Small Bank, of 2½ fathoms, in lat. 3° 4½′ N., mid-way, and in a direct line between the south end of the above Spit of Rocks and Sand, and the Blenheim's Shoal, being distant from each about 2 miles.

Patch of 4¾ fathoms, in lat. 3° 4′ N., about 3 miles W. by N. from the Blenheim's Shoals and near the western part of the sands.

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Bank of 4¼ fathoms, about 1½ mile in extent, in lat. 2° 59′ N., bearing South a little easterly from the Blenheim's Shoal about 4 miles, and from the Two and Half Fathoms Bank N. by W. ¼ W. distant 6 miles.

Blenheim's Shoal, and southern part of the North Sands.

BLENHEIM'S SHOAL, in lat. 3° 3¼′ N., bearing about N. by W., 3 leagues from the Two and Half Fathoms Bank, and considerably to the eastward of the edge of the North sands, was not known until H M. S. Blenheim, of 74 guns, Admiral Troubridge, by standing far over on the sands, grounded, and was nearly lost; although this happened during neap tides, they were obliged to lighten her, by cutting away the masts, and taking out the guns, &c. before she could be hove off the shoal. Captain Bissell, of that ship, gave the following account of the shoal, dated H. M. S. Blenheim aground, April 6th, 1806: "Peak of Salangore Hills N. 56° E., another hill (probably False Parcelar) N. 66° E., Parcelar Hill E. 23° S., distant 8½ or 9 leagues, observed lat. 3° 3′ N. It extends E.N. E. and W. S.W. about 1¾ mile, having only 6 and 7 feet in many places at low water neap tides, consequently less on the springs."

Geo. Site of Two and Half Fathoms Bank.

TWO AND HALF FATHOMS BANK, in lat. 2° 53′ N., lon. 101° 0′ E., distant 5 leagues West from the entrance of the Strait of Callam, may be considered the most dangerous part of the North sands, because it fronts the North side of the channel between, the Arroas and Parcelar Hill. His Majesty's sloop, Victor, examined it with her boats in January, 1805, and found it to extend from N. N. W. to S. S. E. about 1½ mile, and about 1 mile from E. N. E. to W. S. W. When on it, Parcelar Hill bore E. 4½ S., a hill called False Parcelar N. 45° E., and the low land was just visible with the eye elevated 16 feet above the sea. From 2½ to 3 fathoms, were the depths found on it at low water, and it appeared very hard, the lead frequently slipping into holes, as from a rock, but brought up only fine sand; around the bank, the depths increase from 4 and 5, to 10 and 11 fathoms, mostly hard bottom; and eddies may be seen if the tide is strong, when crossing the spit that projects from its southern extremity into the channel. If a ship in borrowing toward the bank with a northerly wind, get soundings on this spit or tail of the Two and Half Fathoms Bank, she ought not to go under 10 or 11 fathoms, but must edge out to the southward. Several ships have grounded upon this bank at different times, by running in the night, or by borrowing too close in the day, and were in great danger of being wrecked.

There is a safe passage between the Two and Half Fathoms Bank and Blenheim's Shoal, for H. M. sloop Victor, had from 7 to 12 and 14 fathoms, mostly hard sand, steering from the former N. W. and Northward, and she passed close on the S.W. side of the Blenheim's Shoal without discerning it, although she shoaled there to 5½ and 5 fathoms. From thence, she steered N.W. by N. and N. N. W. over the western part of the North sands, in regular soundings from 8½ to 12 fathoms sandy bottom, the least water being 8½ fathoms; and the depth increased to 16 and 18 fathoms, when she got upon the northern extremity of the sands. The Mornington passed to the northward of the Two and Half Fathoms Bank, then betwixt it and the Blenheim's Shoal, December 12th, 1803, and carried soundings from 6 to 8 and 10 fathoms, with Parcelar Hill bearing about E. by S. ½ S.

The Albion, in September, 1800, with Parcelar Hill E. S. E., stood on the sands, steered eastward, and had no less than 7½ fathoms crossing over to the low land off Callam, where she tacked in 5½ fathoms.

With Parcelar Hill kept E. by S., seems to be the best bearing, according to the survey of the North sands, by Capt. Ross, for any ship intending to pass to the northward of the Two and Half Fathoms Bank, to avoid the bank of 4¼ fathoms (described above), between it and the Blenheim's Shoal. In working through this passage, with a contrary wind, Parcelar Hill should be kept between E. ¾ S. and E. by S. ¾ S., to avoid the Two and Half Fathoms Bank on one side, and the Blenheim's Shoal on the other.

VOL. II. B B

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Although with Parcelar Hill bearing between E. by S. and E. by S. ½ S. there is a safe passage over the North sands, betwixt the Two and Half Fathoms Bank and the Blenheim's Shoal, yet it ought not to be adopted in a large ship. There is a channel over the eastern part of the North Sands near the land, bounded on each side by dry sands or breakers, which was formerly frequented, but it seems intricate even for small vessels. A brig proceeded through it, not along ago, on her passage from Prince of Wales' Island to Malacca, and worked through between the breakers, in soundings mostly 5 and 6 fathoms, where the channel appeared to be from ½ to 1 mile broad.

Soundings in the channel betwixt the North Sands and Arroas,

THE SOUNDINGS between the western part of the North sands and the Long Arroa, are irregular from 55 to 46 fathoms about mid-channel, decreasing fast near the edge of the sands to 20 or 18 fathoms; the deep water extends within 4 or 5 miles of the North Rock situated to the northward of the Long Arroa, then shoals suddenly to 20 and 18 fathoms, about 2 miles to the N. Eastward of that rock; but in some places, the soundings are very irregular, particularly to N. E. and Northward of the rocks which lie near the Round Arroa.

answer as a guide in the night.

Working between the Long Arroa and the North sands in the night, 16 or 18 fathoms are good depths to tack in, from the edge of the sands; mid-channel track, and your proximity to the rocks off the Arroas, will be known by deep soundings of 35 to 46 fathoms; but farther eastward, betwixt the Round Arroa and the S. W. part of the North sands, the depths decrease, and are here, generally irregular, 14 to 25 fathoms from side to side, except upon the bank adjacent to the Arroa. The soundings are more regular contiguous to the edge of the North sands, than in the South side of the channel.

And the Round Arroa is a good mark in the day.

If in rounding the edge of the North sands, the Round Arroa be never entirely sunk from the quarter deck of a large ship, or with the eye elevated above the sea 16 or 17 feet, she will not be too close to the sands; but when the Arroa is sunk from the poop, she will get upon some of the outer spits, into 7 or 8 fathoms hard sand.

Situations of small banks in south side of the channel.

THE BANKS in, and contiguous to the South side of the East and West channel, be tween the Arroas and Parcelar Hill, are the following. A small bank about 7 miles N. E. from the Round Arroa, and 3 or 4 miles distant from the East Rock, or flat black rock; the least water found on it, has been 5½, 6, 7, and 8 fathoms. To the N. W., about 3 miles from this bank, there is deep water of 40 and 42 fathoms; and the soundings between it and the edge of the North sands, are mostly regular from 15 to 20 fathoms.

There is a small bank bearing from the Round Arroa East southerly, distant about 4½ leagues, on which, the least water we found, in the Gunjavar, was 4½ fathoms hard sand.

Another small round bank, lies 16 or 17 miles East from the Round Arroa, and about W. ½ S. from Parcelar Hill, which is alarming to strangers, who suddenly get upon it, although not dangerous. Sounding all over it, we had not less than 5 and 5½ fathoms hard sand, at low water spring tides; and from the ship at anchor, on the middle of it, the boats deepened fast in every direction, about the distance of a cable's length, to 12 and 14 fathoms.

From this small bank, about 3 or 4 miles E. by S. to E. S. E:, there are other shoal patches of hard sand, with soundings of 6, 7, and 8 fathoms on them. From these shoal patches on the South side of the channel, between the Arroas and the land of Parcelar, the Round Arroa bears from West southerly to W. 3° N., and Parcelar Hill E. 5° N. to E. 7° N.; and the westernmost of them, more particularly, are much nearer to the Arroa than to the low land of Parcelar. The least water on any of them, is probably 4½ or 5 fathoms, but they are alarming to strangers, and will be avoided, by not bringing the Round Arroa to the westward of W. ½ S., or West a large ¾ S., whilst it can be discerned from the poop of a lofty ship; or by keeping Parcelar Hill to the eastward of E. 5° N,, in passing them.

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South Sands.

SOUTH SANDS, are formed of small banks, similar to those ref the North sands, and some of the patches last mentioned, are probably the prominent patches of the N. W. end of the sands, generally called the South Sand Head: the breadth of the channel between it and the North Sand Head is nearly 7 miles. In Jude, 1795, Captain Mackintosh, in the Sarah, got upon this extremity of the South sands; they saw the Round Arroa from the mizen shrouds before dark, bearing S. by W. ¼ W., and steered between S. E. by S. and E. by S., in soundings from 25 to 16 fathoms until 10 P. M., when they shoaled quick to 8½ fathoms, and anchored. At day-light, found they were far to the southward, Parcelar Hill bearing E. 15° N.; weighed with the wind at S. S. E., steered N. W. and N. W. by W. in regular soundings, decreasing gradually from 9½ to 6¾ fathoms when the hill bore E. 11½° N.; deepened afterward to 14 fathoms, steered N. N. E. and N. E. by N., in.8½ to 20 fathoms, the hill E. 9° N.; then steered toward the hill bearing E. 7° N., and had no less than 20 fathoms. When this ship shoaled to 8½ fathoms, with Parcelar Hill bearing E. 15° N., she was probably not far from danger on the South sands, as will appear by the following extract from the journal of the Henry Addington.

August 31st, 1811, at noon, saw breakers on the South sands, bearing from South to S. by E., distant about 6 miles, Parcelar Hill bearing E. 16° N.: East point of Pulo Loomaut N. 56° E., Body of Pulo Callam N. 40° E., in 26 fathoms. The Essex, in company, had Parcelar Hill bearing E. by N. ½ N., distant 12 or 14 miles, the trees under the South end of the hill just visible, but none of the low land to the southward, when the breakers bore S. ½ E. 5 or 6 miles, and Long Rollers about the North point of the South sands S.W., then in 25 fathoms. The Cumberland, also in company, had Parcelar Hill bearing E. 15° N., distant about 12 or 14 miles, when the body of the breakers bore S. 9° E., about 4 miles, which appeared to extend about of a mile in a N. W. and S. E. direction, and are probably not visible except when the tide is low, or with a considerable swell.

The most dangerous part of the South sands, is at the eastern side, nearly opposite to Parcelar Point, which will be mentioned in describing the channel from Parcelar Hill to Cape Rachado.

Direction for the channel betwixt the sands.

TO SAIL through the EAST and WEST CHANNEL, between the sands; with a strong and steady S. W. wind, give the western edge of the North sands a birth, by keeping about mid-channel betwixt it and the Arroas, until the Round Arroa brought to bear aboutb W. S.W., then steer more easterly, sinking it from the deck when it bears about W.¾:S., or W. ½ S.

With the wind light and variable, between North and S. E., steer from Pulo Jarra or the Sambilangs, for the western verge of the North sands, and keep along its edge, in 18 or 20 fathoms; borrowing to 12 or 14 fathoms occasionally, and edging off to 20, 24, or 26 fathoms, as circumstances require. When the Round Arroa is discernible bearing about S. S. W., the Long Arroa will be seen about S. W., and the former ought then to be kept in sight from the quarter deck of a large ship, or from the poop of a small one, in soundings from 16 to 20 fathoms; for there is no danger on the edge of the North sands, if the Round Arroa can be seen from the quarter deck. After the Arroa is brought to bear W. S.W., steer an easterly course, as the wind and tide require, to sink it from the deck bearing W. ¾ S., and 14 or 15 fathoms will be the least water. When the Round Arroa is no longer visible, bring Parcelar Hill to bear East, and draw it to E. 5° N. or E. 6° N., by the time the low land of Pulo Callam is appearing from the deck, being then abreast of the Two and Half Fathoms Bank. With Parcelar Hill E. 3¼° S., you will get upon this bank; the hill E. 2° S., will just clear it, and you may probably cross over the tail or spit in 7 or 8 fathoms with Parcelar Hill E. 1° S. or E. 2° S.; but the hill should not be brought to the southward of East when passing this bank, as compasses are liable to error. From the bank, a spit extends to the southward a considerable way into the channel, with a gradual increase of depth

B B 2

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upon it, proportionate to the distance from the bank; with Parcelar Hill E. 2° N., you will carry 11 or 12 fathoms in crossing the spit, and with the hill E. ½ N. you will pass clear to the southward of it, in 17 or 20 fathoms.

This spit is sometimes called the Eastern Bank, it being nearer the low land of Parcelar than any other bank in the East and West channel; for there are several spots of 10, 11, or 12 fathoms, farther to the westward, exclusive of the shoal patches already mentioned, situated on the South side of the channel betwixt the Round Arroa and South Sand Head. The depths in the fair track, are mostly from 15 to 20 fathoms, and in the western part of the channel, they are subject to least irregularity, in the vicinity of the North Sands; but in the eastern part of it, opposito to the Two and Half Fathoms Bank, they are liable to least irregularity, well to the southward, in the neighbourhood of the South sands, and generally here, the depths are from 20 to 23 fathoms.

When the tides run strong in the springs, eddies are perceived upon the spit that projects from the Two and Half Fathoms Bank, indicating its proximity. Between the Sand Heads, the strength of the ebb sets nearly N.W., but the first and latter parts of it, run very irregular. The flood is more regular in its direction, and runs with less velocity, although sometimes, liable to vary: this renders passing the Two and Half Fathoms Bank dangerous in the night, unless near it before dark, and the situation well determined; or unless the night is so clear, that Parcelar Hill can be seen, and its bearing taken, which sometimes happens.

Parcelar Hill is obscured at times during the day by clouds, when the low land of Pulo Callam, or that to the westward of the strait, may be visible from the Two and Half Fathoms Bank; if so, the body of this piece of low land kept E. N. E. ½ N., or the East end of the same E. N. E., are good bearings to pass clear of the bank; and in coming from the eastward, if it is sunk from the quarter deck of a large ship with these bearings, she will be clear to the westward of that danger.

In proceeding through the channel, when the Round Arroa is sunk from the deck, and Parcelar Hill bearing E. 8° N., a ship will be near shoal water on the extremity of the South sands; with the hill E. 7° N., she will pass over some of the small patches of 5 or 6 fathoms sand, having 16 or 17 fathoms around them. And when the Round Arroa is just disappearing with Parcelar Hill bearing E. ¼ S., she will be near the edge of the North sands. The hill bearing East when in the West part of the channel, to E. 6° N. when the low land is seen from the deck, are safe bearings to work with, throughout the middle and eastern parts of the channel, if the compass be true. And 13 fathoms is a good depth to tack in, from either side, when passing between the Sand Heads.

When abreast of the Two and Half Fathoms Bank, or in crossing the spit that projects from it, the low land of Callam is plainly seen from the quarter deck of a large ship; and from the poop, the tops of the trees may be discerned, stretching from Pulo Callam almost to Parcelar Hill. When the low land to the southward of the hill begins to appear, the channel becomes wide, as you are past the Two and Half Fathoms Bank, and South Sand Head; the hill may then be brought from East to E. by N. ½ N., in working toward the land of Parcelar and if Pulo Callam is kept plainly in sight from the deck, you will not be too close to the South sands.

Geo. Site of Parcelar Hill.

PARCELAR HILL, in lat. 2° 51′ N., lon. 101° 25½′ E.,*, bearing E. 4° N. from the Round Arroa, distant 48 miles, and 50 or 51 miles West from Malacca by chronometers, is of oblong form, sloping at each end when viewed from the westward, with the summit a little to the West of its centre; but of a regular pyramidal aspect of small elevation, when seen from the South or S. S. Eastward, if not too far distant; and its declivity is very gentle to

* Capt. Ross made it in lat. 2° 50½′ H. lon. 101° 24¾′ E.

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each extremity. It is easily distinguished, being situated much nearer the sea, and having a darker shade than the other hills, which are farther inland. From the N. Western extremity of the North Sands, its summit is just discernible from the poop or mizen shrouds of a large ship, bearing E. by S. ½ S. or E. S. E., and the highest part is generally set, in taking the bearings of the hill, when passing through the East and West channel. Directly fronting the hill, there is the mouth of a river.

Directions.

After passing the Two and Half Fathoms Bank, and having the trees to the S. E. of Parcelar Hill visible from the deck, the water will soon deepen to 22 and 24 fathoms soft ground, in steering eastward for the hill: when the land is approached within 6 miles, it will shoal again to 18 or 19 fathoms, then steer along the coast at the same distance, in proceeding toward Cape Rachado. With a working wind, stand not off above 3½ leagues from the land about Parcelar, nor approach the South Sands, nearer than 27 fathoms, for the depths contiguous to them hereabout, are not so great as to the southward of Parcelar Point, where deep water indicates the proximity of danger on the eastern part of the sands.

6th. DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING FROM THE SAMBILANGS TO SALANGORE, AND THROUGH THE STRAIT OF CALLAM.

To sail from the Sambilangs to Salangore.

WHEN bound to SALANGORE, or to proceed through the Strait of Callam, steer to the eastward after rounding the Sambilangs, until the coast is approached, which from thence to Salangore, is low and level fronting the sea, and covered with trees. With a northerly or easterly wind, coast along in sight of the low land, keeping about 2, 3, or 4 leagues off, as circumstances require, observing not to rise the beach from the deck, nor borrow under 8 or 9 fathoms.

Coast and dangers.

TANJONG AWAT, or CAPE CARAN, called also Mud Point, about 3 leagues N. Westward of Salangore, is encompassed by a shoal bank, which ought not to be approached under 5½ or 6 fathoms. About 5 miles W. N. Westward from Tanjong Awat, and 3 or 4 miles off shore, there is a bank of sand and broken shells, of considerable extent, having only 3½ fathoms on its shoalest parts. On its edge, and between it and the shore, the depths are 5 and 6 fathoms, and as they decrease, the bottom becomes hard. After the Sambilangs disappear, Salangore Hill may be seen from the deck bearing S. E. by E. or S. E. by E. ½ E., when in 10 or 11 fathoms green ouze; a ship ought then, to keep the white sandy beach sunk from the poop, in steering along the coast to the S. Eastward, which will carry her outside of the shoal, in soundings not less than 8 or 9 fathoms. When Tanjong Awat bears nearly East, or the low land is seen beyond it, the beach may be raised with safety; but a birth of 1½ or 2 miles ought to be given this point, for until past it, the water shoals suddenly from 6 or 7 fathoms, in standing toward the shore. After passing Tanjong Awat, the lead is a sufficient guide in steering eastward for Salangore Road, as the water shoals gradually on the edge of the mud bank that lines the shore.

Geo. Site of Salangore.

SALANGORE HILL and FORT, in lat. 3° 20′ N., lon. 101° 17′ E., is on the South side the entrance of the river; and as the water is shoal to the southward, the best anchorage is abreast of the river, in any depth at discretion, from 4, to 6 or 7 fathoms, with Tanjong Awat bearing N.W., and the two Pulo Anzas S. by E. or S. by E. ½ E., about 3 leagues distant. The river is navigable at high water for vessels of considerable burthen, and there is no danger at the entrance, the bottom being soft mud. It is high water in the road about 5 hours on full and change of the moon. This place was formerly frequented, for tin and other articles of trade, which are now carried to Prince of Wales' Island, in the coasting proas. The Rajah of Salangore, has seldom been considered hostile to Europeans, but

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A caution.

vessels at anchor in the road ought to be always on their guard, and not to allow any proas to approach them during the night; for here, as well as in several other parts of Malacca Strait, piratical proas frequently lurk about in search of defenceless vessels, or to assault those who are not watchful.

Callam. Strait.

CALLAM, or COLONG STRAIT, is formed by Pulo Callam and its contiguous islands on the West side, and on the East side by the main land and Pulo Loomaut: the latter is a large island to the northward of Parcelar Hill, separated from the main by a narrow strait, called the False Strait, which has 3½ to 9 fathoms water in it. The South entrance of this strait, is the first opening to the westward of Parcelar Hill; and its northern entrance, called Callam River, or Black River, unites with Callam Strait opposite to Deep Water Point.

The North entrance of Callam Strait, bears about S. E. by S. from Salangore Road, distant 6 leagues, and Parcelar Hill bears from it about S. S. E.½ E. The two islands, called Mudancoos, or Pulo Anzas, lie upon the eastern verge of a shoal adjoining to the inner part of the North Sands, they are steep to, and, with the edge of the contiguous sand, form the West side of the channel in proceeding toward Callam Strait. Opposite to Pulo Anzas, and bearing about S. E. by S. from Salangore Road, the Bottle Islands are situated on the bank that bounds the East side of the channel, distant 3 or 4 miles from the shore. These islets or rocks, must not be approached nearer than 1½ or 2 miles, for the reef projects about a mile outside of them; and 1 mile or more S.W. ½ S. from the southernmost or outer Bottle Island, there is a Dangerous Rock, having close to it 5 fathoms water.* To give a birth to these, it is proper to steer about S. by E. for Pulo Anzas, at leaving Salangore Road with the flood tide, because it sets S. E. to S. E. by S.

From the extremity of Bottle Island's Reef, called sometimes Sail Shoal, Pulo Anzas bear W. by S. about 3 miles: the channel betwixt them is very safe, having from 5½ or 6 fathoms mud on the East side, to 9 and 10 fathoms within a mile of Pulo Anzas, and from hence to the entrance of Callam Strait, the depths are mostly from 6 to 8 fathoms in the fair channel.

Directions.

Having steered from Salangore Road, according as the tide requires, to pass nearer to Pulo Anzas than to the Bottle Islands, a course from thence about S. E. by S. will lead directly to the Strait of Callam. In working, tack in 8 fathoms toward the edge of the North Sands, when near Pulo Anzas; and approach no nearer to the Bottle Islands than 5½ or 6 fathoms, giving these a birth of 1½ or 2 miles, observing to keep in soft bottom. When a little to the southward of Pulo Anzas, the channel may be traversed occasionally to 5 fathoms on either side, regular soundings, the bottom soft mud; but in standing to the southward, do not bring Pulo Anzas to the northward of N.W., for the entrance of the strait bears S. E. from these islands, and there is a shoal in a direct line between them and the West point of the entrance: the edge of the North Sands, bounding that side of the channel, lies nearly in the same direction; by bringing Pulo Anzas nothing to the northward of N. W., leads clear of all danger on the West side of the channel.

Northward a little from the entrance of the strait, there is a shoal, which is avoided by keeping the Middle Bottle Island on with Salangore Hill, and taking care not to open the hill to the westward, which is also a mark for the fair channel. Another mark is, to keep Parcelar Hill about its own length on with the West point of the entrance; and either side may be approached in steering into it, they being both steep to, and clear of danger.

First Reach.

FIRST, or NORTH REACH, extending nearly S. by E. ½ E. about 5 miles, and 1¼

* The Calcutta brig, was lost on this rock in 1799. In a manuscript chart, presented to me by Mr. Kitson, in 1810, there is a rock laid down on which the Bornholm was lost, with Salangore Hill bearing N. 2° E., the northernmost Pulo Anza W. by N., and the southernmost Bottle Island about N. E. ½ N.: there are 7 fathoms marked betwixt this rock and the edge of the eastern bank; therefore, to avoid it, borrow toward Pulo Anzas into 8 or 9 fathoms in passing them.

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mile in breadth, is clear of danger; having 6 and 5 fathoms water very close to the shore of either side, and from 8 to 10 fathoms in mid-channel. The bluff point on the S. W. side of this reach, is called Deep Water Point, because the water deepens off it to 18, 20, and 22 fathoms; it is steep to, and should be approached within a small distance, to avoid the indraught of the river opposite.

Second Reach.

To sail through it and over the bar.

SECOND REACH, or BAR REACH, extends from Deep Water Point about S. W. Second by W., and after rounding that point, the deepest water is found toward the eastern shore: when the Second Reach is entered, an opening to seaward is perceived at the South part of it, which admits no passage, being entirely filled with sand banks, dry at low water. A little to the westward of Deep Water Point, there is a small creek; and on the eastern shore, another, called Bar Creek, bearing about South from the former. After rounding Deep it Water Point, the depths decrease fast to 6 or 7 fathoms in steering over for Bar Creek, and about ⅓ channel distant from the eastern shore, is a proper track, to prevent being horsed by bar the flood too close upon that side. If unacquainted, anchor in 6 fathoms a little short of the bar, to sound and examine it before crossing, as the sands are liable to shift; and two boats may be placed on it, to point out the best track. To the South-east of Bar Creek, there is another creek, and the bar begins at the former, stretching from thence across the strait toward the opening to sea. Between the creeks, the water is very shoal within ½ a cable's length of the eastern shore; but about ⅓ channel over from it, the deepest water is generally found on the bar, which is not more than 2¾ or 3 fathoms at low water, and 4 or 4½ fathoms at high water, spring tides.

The best mark for crossing the bar, is to keep the bluff of Deep Water Point N. E. ½ E. or N. E. ¾ E., on with the middle of a small hill having a clump of trees upon it, and is the northernmost of four small hills: when the Bar Creek is fairly open, bearing E. by S. ½ S. or E. S. E., you will be on the top of the bar, which is about a cable's length across. If at anchor to the northward of the bar, the best time to weigh is about 2½ hours flood, which will give time sufficient to kedge or warp over it before high water, should circumstances render that necessary. The flood runs through the middle of the strait until it is nearly ½ ebb on the shore, and this is generally the case in most parts of Malacca Strait.

After passing the bar, the water will deepen gradually to 5 fathoms abreast of the second creek, and the least water will be 5½ or 6 fathoms, in steering from thence about a large cable's length off the eastern shore. The western shore must be avoided until the Third Reach is entered, for it is fronted by a shoal of hard ground, stretching from the large opening to seaward, a considerable way into the strait.

There is a creek on the eastern shore, bearing about E. ½ S. from the South point of the opening to seaward, having on its South side, about a cable's length from the entrance, and nearly the same distance inland, some wells of fresh water, which can only be procured by carrying it in buckets to the boats. The Point on the North side of the entrance of this creek, is called Ann Grab Point, from a grab of that name having been wrecked on the flat that projects a little way off it; this point, ought, therefore, to have a birth of 1½ or 1 large cable's length, in passing. A Portuguese ship was lost farther to the northward; and in 1806, the ship Strathspey got aground, was attacked by the Malay Pirates, taken by them, and carried to Salangore.*

Third Reach.

THIRD, or SOUTH REACH, extends S.W. by S. and S.W., about 2 leagues or more; having entered it a little way, you may approach either side in working, to any distance Reach.

* This strait was formerly much used by ships of moderate size, but it ought not now to be recommended, for it has of late years been often infested by piratical proas, which lurk in the creeks, ready to surprise small vessels, or ships which have the misfortune to get aground. The preference ought certainly to be given to the channel between the Arroas and Parcelar Hill, for although the passage by it, nay sometimes be less speedy than that through the Strait of Callam, this is of little consequence, when compared with its greater safety.

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thought proper, for both shores are steep to: the water will deepen from 8 or 9, to 12 and 14 fathoms, as the southern entrance of the strait draws near, and shoal again gradually to 5½ or 6 fathoms; there will be no less water, if the point on the S. E. side be not borrowed upon too close, for it is fronted by a projecting flat. The best track, is to steer out in mid-channel between the points which form the entrance, or rather nearest the western shore; then S. S. W. to South, according to the tide, until the water deepen to 10 or 12 fathoms; and after edging away about S. S. E., and deepening to 15 or 16 fathoms, a S. E. course may be steered along the coast for Cape Rachado, keeping from 4 to 8 miles off the land.

To sail into Callam Strait from the southward.

TO ENTER CALLAM STRAIT, when coming from the southward, having brought Parcelar Hill to bear about East, the entrance of the False Strait will be discerned; to the N. Westward of which, about 3 miles distant, lies the mouth of Callam Strait. Caution is requisite in steering for the entrance of the strait, as the ebb tide is liable to carry you toward the sand banks which project a great way to the westward of the West point, and are nearly dry in some places at low water, 2 or 3 miles distant from that point; steer, therefore, for the point on the East side of the entrance, until near it, then keep in mid-channel, in sailing into the mouth of the strait; and the best time to enter it, is about high water. After the shoal fronting the East point is rounded, continue to keep nearer to the eastern shore than mid-channel, to prevent being horsed by the ebb into the opening to the northward, a little inside of the strait on the West side, which is barred up with sands. Having passed, and shut in this opening, the preceding directions for sailing to the southward may be attended to, in proceeding through the strait to the N. E. and Northward.

7th. INSTRUCTIONS FOR SAILING FROM PARCELAR HILL TO CAPE RACHADO, AND FROM THENCE TO MALACCA.

Channel between Parcelar Hill and Cape Rachado.

THE DANGERS contiguous to the channel betwixt Parcelar Hill and Cape Rachado, render the navigation of this part of the strait rather difficult in the night, to persons unacquainted, for the soundings being in some places irregular, are not a sufficient guide; the dangers on each side, must therefore be described, prior to giving directions for sailing through the channel.

Coast and bank fronting that bill.

From the point on the East side of the entrance of False Strait, the land takes an easterly direction to Parcelar Hill, then turns gradually round S. Easterly to Parcelar Point, which is 10 or 11 miles distant from the hill. A bight or concavity fronting Parcelar Hill, is thereby formed betwixt these points, occupied by a shoal steep bank stretching from point to point; this bank is composed of fine hard black sand like steel filings, and ought to be approached with great caution, being steep to. At a considerable distance outside of it, 17 and 18 fathoms are found in some places; and from 16 or 17 fathoms close to its outer edge, the water shoals suddenly to 3 and 2½ fathoms.

Tides

7th. INSTRUCTIONS FOR SAILING FROM PARCELAR HILL TO CAPE RACHADO, AND FROM THENCE TO MALACCA.

Channel between Parcelar Hill and Cape Rachado.

THE DANGERS contiguous to the channel betwixt Parcelar Hill and Cape Rachado, render the navigation of this part of the strait rather difficult in the night, to persons unacquainted, for the soundings being in some places irregular, are not a sufficient guide; the dangers on each side, must therefore be described, prior to giving directions for sailing through the channel.

Coast and bank fronting that bill.

From the point on the East side of the entrance of False Strait, the land takes an easterly direction to Parcelar Hill, then turns gradually round S. Easterly to Parcelar Point, which is 10 or 11 miles distant from the hill. A bight or concavity fronting Parcelar Hill, is thereby formed betwixt these points, occupied by a shoal steep bank stretching from point to point; this bank is composed of fine hard black sand like steel filings, and ought to be approached with great caution, being steep to. At a considerable distance outside of it, 17 and 18 fathoms are found in some places; and from 16 or 17 fathoms close to its outer edge, the water shoals suddenly to 3 and 2½ fathoms.

Tides

Anna, in June, 1803, standing in toward Parcelar Hill with the wind at S. E., had several casts of 17 fathoms, the large lead kept going; next cast we had.5 fathoms, and although the helm was instantly put down, the ship grounded in stays, being then high water. In the night, we had only 12 feet at low water, and 18 feet at high water; but on the following day, the tide rose to 21 feet before high water, when we hove her off the bank by the stream anchor, previously carried out with a whole cable. When aground, the centre of Parcelar Hill bore N. 31° E., northern extreme of the land N. 51° W., and Parcelar Point or the southern extreme S. 49° E., off shore about 2½ mils.*

* This part of the coast, fronting Parcelar Hill, having in the old charts, been represented convex instead of concave, toward the sea, with good soundings close to the shore, many navigators have thereby, been led into error, and got their ships aground on the Shore Bank. The Mysore grounded on it, in 1802, and was with some difficulty hove off, after throwing her lumber, some guns, &c. overboard.
With Parcelar Hill N. ½ W. the Gunjavar's helm was put down in 11 fathoms, and she grounded in stays. The Hampshire, of Bombay, a Portuguese ship belonging to Macao, and several other ships, have grounded at various times upon this bank, which stretches along the shore fronting Parcelar Hill, and from thence, it recedes toward Parcelar Point.

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The tides were then at a medium between springs and neaps, and flowed only 6 feet perpendicularly in the night, but had flowed to 9 feet a considerable time before high water during the day; it therefore, appears, that here, as on the coasts of Scindy, Guzarat, Concan, and other parts to the northward of the equator, the principal, or highest tides, are in the day, during the S.W. monsoon, when the sun is near the northern tropic; and the highest tides at these places happen in the night during the N. E. monsoon, when the sun is in the southern hemisphere, The perpendicular rise and fall of the tides on the sands, and betwixt Pulo Callam and Cape Rachado, is from 11, to 14 or 15 feet on high springs, and their velocity is then about 2 to 2½ miles per hour, between Parcelar Hill and the Cape; high water at 5½ to 6 hours in the offing, at full and change of moon. The tides set fair through the channel, the flood about S. E. by E. and the ebb N.W. by W., but near the South Sands, the ebb sets about N.W.: near to Cape Rachado, the tides are strongest, and run with eddies during the springs; and upon the South Sands, Capt. Ross, could not observe any slack water, as the tides appeared to run all round the compass.

Parcelar Point.

PARCELAR POINT, in lat. 2° 42′ N., being of a round form, and similar to the adjacent low coast, is not easily distinguished; but a little eastward from it, there is a white beach or patch on the shore, which may be discerned when the point is bearing well to the northward, and the observer not too far distant from the land.* This point may be approached occasionally within 2 miles, for the bank that occupies the bight abreast of Parcelar Hill, converges toward the shore near the point, having 20 fathoms water a little way from its edge. Although Capt. Ross could not perceive any dangers between Parcelar Point and Bambek Shoal, excepting the shoal bank that lines the shore to the distance of about a mile in some places; yet, several ships have grounded not far to the eastward of Parcelar Point, probably on the edge of the shore bank.

The Shore Bank, or Shoal Spits not far eastward from Parcelar Point, have 20 and 21 fathoms near the outer edge; but in some parts, regular soundings, from 12, to 9 or 8 fathoms, may be found on the outer edge of the Shore Bank; although the soundings in general, are not a safe guide in standing near any of these banks. When within 3 or 3½ leagues of Cape Rachado, or a little nearer to it than to Parcelar Point, you are clear to the southward of Bambek Shoal, which is the principal danger in the extensive bight between them, and bounds the East side of the channel.

Not far to the southward of Parcelar Point, the Sarah, aground in 2½ fathoms, had 10 fathoms on the opposite side of the ship, with Parcelar Hill bearing N. 30° W.

The Gunjavar, after rounding Cape Rachado with a westerly wind, lay up N. N. W. in soundings from 20 to 13 fathoms, and got between Bambek Shoal and the shore. he tacked in 15 fathoms, steered West 2 miles close hauled, in 9 to 15 fathoms soft, then 12 fathoms hard ground, next cast 4 fathoms, and grounded on the inner edge of the shoal, Cape Rachado bearing S. E. ½ E. 4 or 5 leagues, Parcelar Point the northern extreme of the land N. W. by W., off shore 3 or 4 miles. The kedge anchor was laid out, she was then hove off, and anchored in 8 fathoms, night Epproaching; and next morning, weighed, and stood to the S. E. and Southward, round the eastern extremity of the shoal.

* There is also a white patch, about 5 miles more to the eastward, and another near the extreme of a point, about 3 leagues N. N. Westward from Cape Rachado, with a small island to the N. Westward of it, and others to the S. Eastward.

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The Portuguese ship Carmo, aground in 11 feet water, had Cape Rachado bearing S. E. ¾ E., and Parcelar Hill about N.W. ½ N.

The ship La Paix, bound from China to Bengal, was wrecked on Bambek Shoal, November 28th, 1805. At 5 P. M. she tacked in 19 fathoms, and after running 2 miles S.W. by W., struck, and grounded on the shoal in 2½ fathoms, Cape Rachado bearing S. E. by E., Parcelar Point N. W. by W., the Hill N. 41° W., off shore 4 miles. Found on sounding all round, that they were encompassed by rocks and shoals, and having only 10 feet rocky bottom under the bow, she soon bilged with the swell, and was totally lost. Other ships, have formerly been wrecked on this shoal, proving the danger of borrowing toward it; but it will be avoided, by not bringing Cape Rachado to the southward of S. 60° E., nor Parcelar Point to the westward of N. 43° W. The Caroline, bound from Bengal to Canton River, in 1816, was wrecked on Bambek Shoal, with Cape Rachado bearing E. 35° S., Parcelar Point W. 36° N., and Parcelar Hill W. 43° N.

BAMBEK SHOAL, (the centre) is situated in lat. 2° 33½′ N., distant 14 miles from Parcelar Point, the same from Cape Rachado, and it lies in a transit line between these points, off shore 3 or 3¼ miles, having irregular soundings from 6 to 20, and 26 fathoms between it and the main. This shoal extends W. N. W. and E. S. E. nearly 2 miles, rocky and dangerous, having only 1½ to 2, and 2½ fathoms water over the rocks, deepening to 7 or 8 fathoms hard ground at each of the two extremities, where it extends about ½ a mile farther than the dangerous part mentioned above. Near this shoal on the outside, the depths are from 10 or 12, to 17 or 19 fathoms, irregular, consequently, the soundings do not afford a safe guide in the approach to this danger.

About 3 miles East from the centre of Bambek Shoal, there is the N. W. extremity of a long spit, which extends nearly to Cape Rachado, fronting the shore at from 1½, to 2½ or 3 miles distance, having only 2, 1½, and ½ a fathom on it in some places, and 6 or 8 fathoms on other parts near Pulo Arram, with 8 and 10 or 12 fathoms inside, close to Cape Rachado, and also close to the shore, about 1½ mile within the Cape. The depths near this long narrow spit, on the outside, are usually 10, 11, or 12 fathoms, increasing to 20 fathoms or upward, at 2 or 2½ miles distance.

South Sands.

SOUTH SAND, or SANDS, from the N. Western extremity (already mentioned in the preceding Section) to abreast of Parcelar Point, were very little known, until the survey of these dangers by Capt. Ross, in 1819.

The General Kyd, September 17th, 1821, at 5 P. M. lost sight of the Round Arroa, bearing S. 8° W., at 6¼ P. M. Parcelar Hill bore E. 2° N., at 10. ½ P. M. it bore N. 65° E., seen with the night glass, and ten minutes after, she suddenly grounded on one of the northernmost patches of the South Sands, where she lay in great danger till the 23d, when she was hove clear of the sand, with the assistance of Capt. Welstead, and the boats of the General Harris, after great exertion, having thrown overboard part of the cargo, guns, &c. and filling the Covelong brig with cotton, which vessel happened to be passing at the time. After getting clear of the sand, and warping out into 15 fathoms water, Parcelar Hill bore N. 60° E.

About S. W. from Parcelar Hill, and 5 leagues distant from the nearest part of the land, H. M. S. Albion, in 1804, got into 6 fathoms upon one of the northern patches, which is probably the nearest to the land in that part. The Vansittart, August 15th, 1815, steering S. E. ½ E. at 3 A. M. grounded in a ¼ less 4 fathoms, and had 7 fathoms under the stern. Hove the sails aback, and floated off, then anchored, but a squall coming from southward, cut the cable, steered West about 3 miles, and anchored at 4¼ A. M. in 10½ fathoms, with Parcelar Hill at day-light, bearing N. 21½° E., and the low land about Parcelar Point N.51° E.

Dangers on the eastern part of them.

The eastern part of the South Sands, bearing between S. by E. ½ E. and S. by W. ¼ W. from Parcelar Point, is very dangerous, where several ships have grounded upon the patches

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of which it is formed, and were nearly lost; and as the easternmost of these patches lie nearly opposite to Bambek Shoal, the channel between them is thereby rendered more contracted, and more dangerous here, than in any other part of the strait from Parcelar Hill to the Carimons.

On this extremity of the South Sands, the patch nearest to the land, is distant 12, or 11½ miles from the coast about 5 miles eastward of Parcelar Point, and it consists of small pyramids of hard sand, with only 1¼ and 1½, to 2 fathoms water upon them. The Hornby tacked in 9 fathoms close to one of the patches with Parcelar Hill N. by W., and Cape Rachado E. ½ S. appearing like an island; and the boat on examining it, found only 1½ fathom water.

The Lord Macartney, aground on one of these patches in 9 feet at low water, had Parcelar Hill bearing N. by W. and Cape Rachado E. 5° S., which seems to have been on the patch last mentioned. Prior to grounding, she must have been some time on the South Sands, for she steered E. N. E. 4 miles in 18 to 13 fathoms, next cast 5 fathoms, and then grounded. She lay on the sand from the 21st to the 29th of August, 1792, and was nearly lost, having been obliged to discharge much of the cargo, into two vessels sent to her assistance from Malacca.

The Besborough, aground, had Parcelar Hill N. ¾ W., and Cape Rachado E. ½ S. about 6½ leagues; the Lascelles in company, at the same time, at anchor in 8 fathoms, bore from the Besborough S. by W. about ½ a mile. When the Besborough floated, they steered between E. S. E. and S. S. E., in irregular soundings from 8 to 17 fathoms, hard ground. The Indus, of Bombay, and other ships also grounded, and were nearly lost upon these dangerous pyramids, which form the eastern extremity of the South Sands.

About 5 miles farther S. Eastward, His Majesty's ship Trident, had 5 fathoms on another patch of the eastern part of these sands, with Parcelar Hill N. by W. ¼ W., and Cape Rachado E. by N.; she hauled to the eastward, and deepened gradually.

The following banks or patches of the South Sands, contiguous to the common channel, and consequently most in the way of ships, were examined by Capt. Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, in 1819.

Shoal Banks and Dangers on the South Sands.

In lat. 2° 41½′ N. a patch with 3 and 3½ fathoms sand, nearly a mile in extent, bearing from Parcelar Hill W. S.W. ¼ S. distant 16 miles from Loomat Point, the nearest land, and on the Nauth S. by E. ½ E. from the Two and Half Fathoms Bank about 12 miles. A small patch of 4 San fathoms, about 1½ mile to the N. E. of the above mentioned 3 fathoms patch.

In lat. 2° 40′ N. a sand bank extending N. W. and S. E. nearly 3 miles, having depths of 3, to 1½ fathoms on its centre, which bears from Parcelar Hill S. W. by W., and 14½ miles distant from Loomat Point, which is the nearest land.

In lat. 2° 36½′ N., a sand bank extending about N. E. and S. W. 2 miles, and 1 mile in breadth, with soundings on it from 2 to 3½ fathoms, and bearing from Parcelar Hill nearly equi-distant from Loomat Point, and Parcelar Point, about 14 miles. About 2½ or 3 miles West from the last mentioned bank, is situated a small bank, with depths of 2 to 4 fathoms on it.

In lat. 2° 30′ N., the centre of a sand bank, extending W. N. W. and E. S. E. 3 or 3½ miles, with depths on it, from 2, to 2½ and 3 fathoms, the centre of which bears from Parcelar Hill S. by W., distant 13½ miles from Parcelar Point, the nearest and opposite land.

In lat. 2° 27′ N., and about 5 miles to the S. E. of the centre of the above, the centre of a narrow sand spit is situated, which extends 3 miles N.W. by N. and S. E, by S., having on it only ¼, and ½ fathom water.

In lat. 2° 25′ N., a small sandy patch with 4 fathoms water on it, bearing West from Cape Rachado, S. by E. from Parcelar Hill, and South from Parcelar Point.

In lat. 2° 28′ N., and about 3 miles N. by E. from the above small sandy patch, is situated the easternmost dangerous patch of the South Sands, extending about a mile N. N. W, and

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S. S. E., having only 11 fathom water over the hard sandy bottom, and bearing about W. ¾ N. from Cape Rachado, distant 7 leagues, from Parcelar Hill S. by E. ¼ E., from Parcelar Point S.½ E., distant 13½ miles, from Bambek Shoal W. S.W. ½ S. 10 or 11 miles, and from the nearest land to the eastward of Parcelar Point, distant 12 miles. This part of the channel, betwixt Bambek Shoal and the easternmost patches of the South Sands, requires great care by ships passing through it in the night, as the soundings are not a sufficient guide, although the water generally deepens to 35, 38, or 40 fathoms when within a few miles of these easternmost patches, and shoals again to 30 or 25 fathoms near their edges, or in some places to 20 and 17 fathoms; but there are 30 and 31 fathoms within a mile of the easternmost patch, on the North and N. E. sides, which patch forms the projecting extremity of these sands, bounding the channel to the South and westward, and it ought never to be approached by any ship, being steep to, and very dangerous.

The tides run strong, and very irregular, among, and contiguous to the South Sands, apparently setting all round the compass, without any perceptible slack water on the springs.

Geo. Site of Cape Rachado.

TANJONG TUAN, or CAPE RACHADO, in lat. 2° 26′ N.,* lon. 101° 51′ E., or 24 miles West from Malacca by chronometer, and bearing from Parcelar Point S. E. by E. about 27 miles, is a steep bluff headland covered with trees, discernible at the distance of 7 leagues; it is just visible from the poop of a. large ship, when she is a little to the southward of Parcelar Point. When first seen, in coming from westward, it appears like an island; the adjacent coast, and the neck of land that joins it to the Cape, being much lower than the latter, are not so soon perceived; and the whole of the coast that forms the deep bight between Parcelar Point and Cape Rachado, has a similar aspect, rather low and woody, with some small rivers. There is an islet or rock close to the Cape, and a bay on each side, that to the N. W. being the largest, in which Pulo Arram, and another small island, lie near the shore, Pulo Arram being that nearest to the Cape; but the coast which forms this bay should not be approached nearer than 3 or 4 miles, on account of the long spit that fronts it, already described. Close to the Cape, the depths are 24 and 28 fathoms; and about 3 or 4 miles off it, from 15 to 22 fathoms, irregular at times: from this situation, the low woody coast of Sumatra may be seen from the deck, the strait being here, more contracted than in any other part to the northward of Malacca.

Direction. to sail from Parcelar Hill to Cape Racbado.

HAVING proceeded through the EAST and WEST CHANNEL, or through Callam Strait, do not in working, stand above 3½ or at most 4 leagues off the land; nor above 3 leagues off it, when Parcelar Hill bears between North and N. N. W. You may borrow occasionally, within 1½ or 2 miles of the land to the westward of Parcelar Hill, or tack in 13 fathoms when the hill bears between E. by S. and E. by N.; but the shoal that stretches along the concavity of the land abreast of Parcelar Hill, projects about 2½ miles to seaward, and being steep to, on the outer edge, should not be approached under 17 fathoms. Close to its outer edge, the depths are 16 and 17 fathoms, and nearly the same depths, 17, 18, and 19 fathoms, are found at a considerable distance outside of it, in some places. About 3 or 4 miles outside of the edge of the Shore Bank, there is a long narrow bank in the fair channel, with 13, 14, and 15 fathoms water on it, which might in the night, be mistaken for the edge of the former. The North end of this narrow bank, bears about W. by S. from Parcelar Hill, and it extends parallel to the coast nearly till abreast of Parcelar Point; with the hill bearing from E. by N. to N. N. E., the depths on it are 13 to 16 fathoms; and on its southern part, 18 to 21 fathoms. The soundings inside of this bank, are mostly 19 and 20 fathoms near it, shoaling to 17 fathoms close to the edge of the Shore Bank, but not always regular; for around Parcelar Point, there are 20 and 21 fathoms very near the Shore Bank,

* Capt. Ross places it in lat. 2° 25′ N., lon. 101° 50½′ E.

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the same depth on the southern extremity of the Channel Bank, 20 to 24 fathoms between them, and 26 to 30 fathoms off the South end of the Channel Bank, about 3 or 4 miles to the S. S. W. of Parcelar Point.

To avoid all the dangers fronting the shore, betwixt Parcelar Hill and Cape Rachado, do not come within a direct line joining the two extremes of the land, in passing the bight off Parcelar Hill; nor bring Parcelar Point, (the southern extreme of the land), to the southward of S. 60° E., to keep clear of the edge of the Shoal Bank embracing the bight to the N. Westward of that point. Do not approach Parcelar Point nearer than 2 miles or rather give it a birth of 3 or 4 miles in passing. When Cape Rachado is seen, keep it to the eastward of S. 60° E., nor bring the North extreme, (Parcelar Point), to the westward of N. 43° W. in passing the extensive bight between them; for these bearings will not lead you far outside of Bambek Shoal.

Cape Rachado E. S. E., is a fair mid channel bearing throughout; when working, it may be brought to E. S. E. ½ S., or S. 60° E., in standing toward the shoals in the bight; and to E. by S. ½ S., in standing toward the Patches or Pyramids on the eastern part of the South Sands; but as the channel betwixt these and Bambek Shoal is only about 3 leagues wide, it would be dangerous in traversing, to exceed those bearings of the Cape, when it appears like an island. When it is approached within 3½ or 4 leagues, and the low neck of land that joins it to the coast be seen considerably elevated from the deck, the channel becomes wider; and may then, occasionally, be traversed with the Cape bearing from S. E. by E. to E. ½ S.

FROM abreast of PARCELAR POINT in the night, at 4 or 5 miles distance, steer S. E. by E. for Cape Rachado, which is the course from point to point: the soundings in the fair track, will be generally 25 to 27 fathoms; from 33 to 40 fathoms, will be near the Pyramids of the South Sands, and with 17 or 18 fathoms when abreast of the shoals in the bight, is much nearer them than to the South Sands. This may be useful as a general remark, but the soundings are often irregular in the channel; for a little to the southward of Parcelar Point, there are 30 fathoms within 2 miles of the Shore Bank, 20 fathoms close to it, and from 10 to 14 fathoms, contiguous to Bambek Shoal. There are also some small banks in the channel, having from 11 to 15 fathoms water on them, although these are few, and generally in the shore side of the channel. Particular care must be taken not to deepen above 36 or 38 fathoms toward the Pyramids that form the eastern extremity of the South Sands, for the depths increase near them on the N. E. side to 38, 40, or 44 fathoms, then decrease suddenly to 30, 20, 10, and 2 or 1½ fathoms upon them. If the lead be kept going, the deep soundings in the outer part of the channel, is a certain indication of the proximity of this part of the South Sands. when passing in the night. To the N. Westward, opposite to Parcelar Hill, the depths near the edges of the South Sands are not so great as near the easternmost part. When Cape Rachado is brought to bear N. E. there is thought to be no danger, for after passing the Cape a little way, the strait is considered to be safe from side to side, excepting a bank about 6 leagues to the S. Westward of the Water Islands, on which the Milford grounded. It is, however, advisable, not to exceed the distance of 4 leagues from the Malay coast, in sailing from Cape Rachado to Malacca; and the Cape may be passed at the distance of from 1 to 6 or 7 miles, as circumstances require. About 2 leagues to the S. Eastward of the Cape, there is a small bank in the channel, with 10 and 12 fathoms on it; and the depths in the offing, are irregular from 16 to 25 fathoms betwixt Cape Rachado and Tanjong Clin; but farther eastward, they become more regular.

Tanjong Clin, and the adjoining coast.

TANJONG CLIN, or Peer Punjab, situated about 5 miles to the N. W. of Fisher's Island, and 6½ or 7 leagues S. E. by E. from Cape Rachado, is known by two or three trees on its extremity, more elevated than the others near the sea. The coast betwixt it and Cape Rachado forms a bight, and being rocky in several parts, with 17 and 18 fathoms not far

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from the shore, should not be approached nearer than 2½ or 3 miles, for the soundings not being always regular, do not afford a sufficient guide. About 6 or 7 miles to the eastward of the Cape, the entrance of Lenque or Lengey River is situated, which is a considerable stream, navigable by small vessels; but its entrance, and the bight between it and Cape Rachado, is fronted by detached rocks.

The coast about 2 leagues to the N. W. of Tanjong Clin, is lined by straggling rocks under water, projecting 1½ or 2 miles from the shore, with 10 and 11 fathoms between some of them; near and outside of these, there is a large rock always above water, called DIANA ROCK, from the country ship of this name having struck on it, and was wrecked, which is distant 1½ or 2 miles from the shore, having near it 17, 18, and 19 fathoms irregular soundings.

The Snow Forth stood in, and let go her anchor in 12 fathoms during the night, when near high water; and after tending to the ebb, got fast aground, upon one of these sunken rocks, which shews the impropriety of borrowing too close to the shore hereabout in the night.

Fisher's Island, and its contiguous shoal.

FISHER'S ISLAND; bounding the N. W: side of Malacca Road, is low and level; being encompassed, and joined to the main by foul ground, it ought not to be approached under 15 fathoms toward the South end, these depths being near, the edge of the shoal. With the extremes of the island bearing from N. 11° W. to N. 22½° W., body of it N. 15° W. distant ½ a mile, Malacca Flagstaff on the Hill E. 14° N., Outer Water Island S. 45° E., and Tanjong Clin, the northern extreme N. 59° W., there is a CIRCULAR SHOAL, about 10 or 12 fathoms in extent, having 18 feet on it at low water spring tides, the bottom sand and stones intermixed with mud.* To avoid this shoal, and other rocks near the S. E. side of Fisher's Island, do not stand nearer to the island than 1 mile; and tack from it in 15 fathoms, with the lead kept briskly going, when working into Malacca Road during the night. The coast about Tanjong Clin, and from thence to Malacca Road, may be approached to 14 or 15 fathoms, but it would be imprudent to go under these depths in a large ship, particularly in the night.

To sail from Cape Rachado to Malacca, or to the Water Islands.

In sailing from Cape Rachado toward Malacca, or the Water Islands (the latter bearing or from it about S. E. ½ E. distant 12 leagues), keep from 3 to 6 or 7 miles off shore, in soundings from 16 to 20 fathoms, which are not always regular; when well out in the offing, the depths in some parts increase to 24 or 26 fathoms, particularly opposite to Tanjong Clin, and Malacca. If you do not stop here, steer a course as the wind may require, to pass outside of the Water Islands, at any distance thought proper; but if bound into Malacca Road, with the wind from the land, Fishe's Island may be rounded within 1½ mile.

To sail into the road in the night.

If working into the road in the night, or approaching it from southward, when round the Water Islands, do not haul in too close to the rocky flat called PANJANG REEF, which projects about 2 miles from the shore, and extends along it to Pulo Java or Red Island, near Malacca.

Panjang Reef.

The church and Flagstaff on the hill, bears from the West end of Panjang Reef N. ½E., distant 1½ mile, and from its East end N. 25° W., distant 3½ miles: within 2 cables' lengths of its southern edge, there are 18 and 19 fathoms water, and 15 fathoms close to the rocks; the lead is therefore no guide, if you go under 18 or 19 fathoms toward the S. Eastern edge of the reef. The Cartier, and Asia, returning from China in different seasons, got upon this reef by hauling up too soon for the road, during the night, where they lay a tide in a

* The Sarah borrowing too close, shoaled from 10 to 5 fathoms at a cast; other ships, approaching still nearer to Fisher's Island, have grounded on the shoal; and in 1789, I saw a snow hound from Manilla to Madras, run aground upon the spit which projects from Fisher's Island, by borrowing too close after weighing from Malacca Road. There is a narrow channel between this spit and the Circular Shoal, through which the Terpsichore frigate passed in 1803.

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very dangerous situation; the Cartier had 4½ fathoms under her stern at low water, and the rocks appearing above water close to her stem. Several other ships have grounded on this reef in the night, whilst the Shah Byramgore, barely escaped, by anchoring close to the rocks.*

Anchorage in Malacca Road.

From 20 fathoms in the offing, the depths decrease regularly over a bottom of soft mud toward the road, where the best anchorage is under 10 fathoms, with the church on the hill Road. N. E. by E., Fisher's Island N. W. ½ W., and the Tuft of trees East, off the town about l½ or 2 miles. When the depth is more than 10 fathoms, the bottom is generally stiff clay, requiring good cables to purchase the anchors, after they are seated in the ground; but under 10 fathoms the bottom is soft mud, and continues so, close to the shore. Large ships may anchor in from 7 to 9 fathoms; and small ones, in 6, 5, or 4 fathoms at discretion, there being no danger, if they should happen to ground on the soft mud bank that fronts the town. Do not anchor on the East side of the road, near Red Island, for the bottom is foul and rocky, the depth decreasing suddenly from 8 to 3 fathoms on the northern extremity of Panjang Reef. During the S. W. monsoon, sudden hard squalls frequently blow into the road from the Sumatra side in the night, accompanied with much thunder, lightning, and rain; several ships have been damaged here, by lightning, at various times.

The tides of flood and ebb, continue to run through the road 2 hours after high and low water on the ground; and boats cannot get into the river after half ebb. The rise of tide is from 8 to 10 feet on the springs, and it runs about 2 miles per hour. The sea worm, is very destructive in this road, to vessels or boats which have not copper sheathing.

Geo. Site of Fort.

MALACCA FORT, or the Church on the Hill, is in lat. 2° 12′ N., on. 102° 15′ E., by mean of a series of lunar observations taken by different navigators, corroborated by chronometers from Prince of Wales' Island. This hill, on which the church is built, and where the colours are displayed, stands in the centre of the fort, fronting the sea on the South side of the river; and the town, lines the sea shore on the North side the river, there being a draw bridge of communication. The lighthouse is 146 feet above the level of the sea, from which Tanjong Clin bears W. 10° N., outer extreme of Fisher's Island W. 14° N. to W. 18° N., small rocky reef off the West end of Red Island S. 5° W., West extreme of Red Island South, body of the Outer Water Island S. 29° E., anchorage in the Road from S. 48° W. to S. 64° W.

Country around.

The country a few leagues inland from Malacca, is formed of undulating hills moderately elevated, generally called Malacca Hills, and 7½ leagues E. by N. ½ N. from it, there is a high mountain called Goonong Ledang, also Queen's Mount, or Mount Ophir; but the coast, and the land adjacent to the town, is low, and all the country is mostly covered with wood.†

Convenient for obtaining refreshments.

Malacca is a very convenient port for ships to touch at, when only water and refreshments are wanted. Water is immediately sent off, on application to the master attendant; and fish, yams, sago, and a variety of excellent fruits, may be procured at moderate prices.

Buffalos, a few hogs, and some poultry, may also be obtained, and grain imported from Java, Sumatra, or Bengal. Dammer for caulking, is an article of trade here, and poon spars for masts, brought over from Siak River, on the opposite coast of Sumatra.

Boats may proceed into the river, about a large ¼ flood; they should steer for the Church on the Hill, keeping it rather on the starboard bow, and when the bar is approached, the channel may be discovered, by the stakes at the entrance of the river.

* H. M. S. Trident, bearing Admiral Rainier's flag, going into the road in a dark night, with a strong breeze, saw the breakers on the reef, and brought up with two anchors within a cable's length of the reef in 18 fathoms. A lighthouse has been lately erected at Malacca, to guide ships into the road clear of Panjang Reef.

† Being situated near the equator, on the side of a strait, liable to calms, with offensive mud banks close to the houses, which dry every tide, and the low country around being almost an impenetrable forest; it might naturally be expected, that Malacca would thereby, be rendered an unhealthy place, and by the noxious vapours and exhalations arising from the woods. It is, however, the most healthy place known in India, so near to the equator; of which, the venerable inhabitants, daily seen in the streets, are sufficient proofs.

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8th. DIRECTIONS FOR, SAILING FROM MALACCA TO SINGAPORE STRAIT: COASTS, ISLANDS, BANKS, AND DANGERS.

Water Islands.

To sail outside of them.

WATER ISLANDS, or FOUR BROTHERS, situated from 6 to 10 miles S. Eastward of Malacca Road, are high, small, round islands, covered with trees, and take their name from a fifth, or larger one, nearer to the coast, which has excellent fresh water on its eastern side. As the flood tide sets along the coast from Malacca Road toward these islands, ships leaving the road should steer well out to seaward, in order to round the outer island at any convenient distance, close to which, there are 17 or 18 fathoms, and 20 fathoms about a mile off.

The common passage for ships, is outside of these islands, but Captain J. Lindsay's examination of this place, proves that small ships may occasionally pass with safety between some of them, if any advantage is to be had thereby. Inside of the outer island, and also betwixt the westernmost and the others, the passage is safe, and the depths 18 and 19 fathoms soft mud.

Channels between them.

The widest channel is between the large island and the Four Brothers, were it not for a rock or reef under water, nearly in mid-channel. When upon it in 8 feet at low water, the West end of the large Water Island bore N. 28° W., and Malacca Church open to the westward of it 1° 29½′ by sextant, the N. E. end of the Large Island N. ½ W., the westernmost Brother W. S. W., and the small island or point to the eastward of the southernmost Brother, just appearing over the rocky point of the East end of the Middle Brother, bearing then S. ½ E. There is a good passage on either side of this rock, in 18 and 19 fathoms water; and it may be avoided, by keeping either the Middle Brother, or the Large Island a-board; for the rock is about 1 mile from the South East end of the latter, and nearly the same distance from the Middle Brother. After passing through this channel, the depth will decrease to 10 or 12 fathoms on the mud bank fronting the coast to the eastward of the islands, on which there is no danger.

Vessels coining from the eastward, to pass through this channel, may keep the South end of the Large Water Island N. W., or more westerly, until they shut in the southernmost Brother with the two others; or they may steer for the N. Easternmost Brother, and pass it ½ a mile distant, not bringing the westernmost Brother to the southward of W. S.W. ½ S. until past the Middle Brother, which may be approached within 100 yards without danger.

To sail from the Outer Water Island to S. Eastward

OUTER WATER ISLAND, bears S. E. from Malacca Road, distant 9 or 10 miles; in passing it with a working wind, do not stand above 4 leagues to the S. Westward, for the Three Fathoms Bank on which the Milford grounded, is thought to lie about 6 leagues S. W. from these islands; and a few miles farther to the north-westward, we shoaled suddenly in the Anna, from 28 to 8 fathoms, and tacked. After rounding the Water Islands, the coast may be approached to 12 or 13 fathoms in working, until past Mount Mora; the Sumatra coast may also be approached occasionally to 14 fathoms, in this part of the strait; but it is best to keep nearest the Malay side, to prevent getting outside of the Long Bank in the middle of the strait, to the South of Mount Formosa.

Mount Moar, and the contiguous coast.

MOUNT MOAR, or MORA, in lat,1° 59′ N., bearing E. by S. about 8 leagues from the Outer Water Island, is an insolated hill near the sea, covered with wood, just visible from Malacca Road. Tanjong Tor, the contiguous point of land, bears about E. S. E. from the Outer Water Island, and with the whole of the coast in this space, is low level land, having several small rivers falling into the sea. The coast from thence to Formosa river, continues low and woody, and the whole of the opposite land of Sumatra is low, and covered with trees.

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Geo. Site of Mount Formosa.

Formosa Bank.

MOUNT FORMOSA, in lat. 1° 49′ N., lon. 102° 55′ E., or 40 miles East from Malacca by chronometers, is the highest summit of a group of undulating mountains near the sea, and just discernible from the Water Islands. The western end of this mount, forms the bluff point of land called Point Sizan, on the East side of the entrance of Formosa river, which extends a considerable way into the country. Abreast of this river, there is an extensive shoal called FORMOSA BANK, on which the Murad-bux shoaled to 2½ fathoms, in 1800. The Asia steering along shore to the S. Eastward in 12 and 14 fathoms with the land wind, shoaled suddenly, and grounded on this bank in June, 1803, where she lay a tide. When aground in 2½ fathoms at low water, Formosa Peak bore N. E. by E. ½ E., entrance of Formosa river N. E.¼ E., Mount Mora N. W. by N., western extreme of the land N. W. by W. off Formosa river 5 or 6 miles, which appears to be the shoalest part of the bank, and consists of black sand. This dangerous part of the bank, seems to be connected to Point Sizan by a spit of shoal water, from which it is distant about 4 miles, and nearly equal distance from the point on the other side of Formosa River. From the shoalest part of the bank, a spit extends a great way to N. Westward, with 5, 6, and 7 fathoms water on it, which probably reaches to the shore a little eastward of Tanjong Tor, or about S. S. E. from Mount Mora. Betwixt the bank and the shore, there are regular soundings, 10 and 12 fathoms soft ground; when the Asia floated, she was drifted inside of the bank by a squall, and steered 3 miles to the N. W. along its inner edge, in 8 and 9 fathoms, then crossed it in 5 fathoms with the western extreme bearing N.W. ½ W., Mount Mora N. W. by N., Mount Formosa E. by N.½ N., and a little hill near the shore with a peaked summit N. N. E. ½ E. On the outer edges of the bank, the depths decrease suddenly, but the lead if kept briskly going, will indicate its proximity, and give warning to tack.

Other banks not dangerous.

About 5 miles W. N. W. from Formosa Bank, there is a small bank of 10 to 8 fathoms, having 18 and 17 fathoms between it and the shore. The Antelope, had two casts of 8 fathoms sand on this bank, with Mount Formosa bearing E. ¼ N., Mount Mora N. by W., bluff end of Formosa Hills forming Point Sizan E. by N., off shore about 8 miles, and in crossing toward the shore had 18 fathoms. From Mount Mora about S.W., and 3½ or 4 leagues off the Sumatra shore, we shoaled in the Anna from 25 to 11 fathoms upon a bank, and deepened regularly when over It to 23 fathoms, then shoaled again to 11 fathoms, where we tacked about 4 miles from the coast of Sumatra. These small banks in- the fair channel, here, and in other parts of the strait, with from 9 to 14 fathoms on them, may sometimes cause anxiety to persons unacquainted, when not certain of their situation in the night.

Geo. Site of Pulo Pisang;

PULO PISANG, in lat. 1° 28′ N., lon. 103° 14′ E., or 59 miles East from Malacca, by chronometer, is of middling height, covered with wood, and composed of three hummocks; the central part being of round form, and rather more elevated than the other hummocks, may be seen 8 or 9 leagues. The island lies about 4 or 5 miles from the coast, and is connected to it by an extensive mud-bank, over which there is said to be a channel with 3 or 4 fathoms water, fit for small vessels. Close to the East side of Pulo Pisang, there are two round islets, and two others of similar aspect, contiguous to its western side. On the largest of these, fresh water may be sometimes procured.

From the brow of the Western Point of Pulo Pisang, Capt. Ross, observed the peak of Mount Formosa to bear N. 43° 41′ W., by Theodolite, centre of Little Pisang N. 82° 4′ W., Peak of the Great Carimon S. 19° E., and the other Peak of ditto S. 27° 25′ E.

the coast,

The coast fronting the sea betwixt Mount Formosa and Pulo Pisang, is low and woody, excepting Battoo Baloo, a small round mount near the sea, rather more than half way from Formosa toward Pisang.

and its contiguons and bank.

The coast from Mount Formosa to Pulo Pisang, and from thence to Pulo Cocob, is lined by a shoal mud bank, projecting 3 and 4 miles off shore; and 2 leagues to the N. W. of Pi-

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sang, it stretches out nearly 5 miles from the coast, leaving a concave space of good soundings nearer the land, which is steep to, on the N. W. and West sides. On the edge of this shore bank, the depths decrease suddenly from 10 or 9, to 6, 5, and 4 fathoms to the N. W. of Pisang; and from l2 or 11, to 4, 3, and 2 fathoms to the S. Eastward of that island, being here, more steep and dangerous.

It may be observed, as a general rule, that on the edges of the shore banks throughout the strait, the depths decrease suddenly; and also on the edges of those in the offing.

Pisang Banks.

Fair Channel Bank.

PISANG BANKS, exclusive of that lining the coast last mentioned, are three in number betwixt it and the coast of Sumatra. The first, called the FAIR CHANNEL BANK, extends parallel to the coast, in the direction of the channel; and lies a little nearer to the Shore Bank than to the Long Middle Bank. Mount Formosa bears about North from its northern extremity, and Pulo Pisang about North from its southern extreme; the depths on it are generally from 8 to 11 fathoms, and the least water known, is 6½ to 7 fathoms in two places near its South end, with Pulo Pisang bearing E. by N. and N. E. by N. from 4 to 5 miles. There appear to be some small gaps in this bank, as I have crossed over it with the lead going, and had not any shoal soundings; but these gaps are very narrow, for ships making long tacks across the channel, generally get soundings from 8 to 11 or 12 fathoms in crossing over the bank, which is a good guide in the night. The depths betwixt this bank and the Shore Bank, are 13 to 20 fathoms; and between it and the Long Middle Bank, generally from 16 to 24 fathoms, but not always regular.

Long Middle Bank.

LONG MIDDLE BANK, distant 6 or 7 miles outside of the Fair Channel Bank, and extending parallel to it and the coast, is situated nearly in mid-strait between the Malay and Sumatra shores. From its N. Western extremity, which is the shoalest part, Mount Formosa bears N. by E. ½ E., and Pulo Pisang E. ½ S. to E. ¾ S.; and from thence to the North end of the Great Carimon, it is a continued narrow bank, having 3½ and 4 fathoms at low water on its N. Western extremity, 4 and 5 fathoms on its middle part, and 6½ to 8 fathoms on its S. Eastern part toward the Carimons. With Mount Formosa bearing N. by E. ½ E., and Pulo Pisang E. ¾ S., we anchored in 4½ fathoms, and the least water found in sounding around with the boats, was 3½ fathoms at low water, soft ground.

The Dublin had 3½ and 3¾ fathoms at low water upon it, Mount Formosa bearing N. by E., which was the least water found, the bottom soft, excepting a cast or two of sand.

The Nottingham had three casts of 4½ fathoms, crossing over the bank, with Mount Formosa N. ½ W., and Pulo Pisang E. ¼ N., and as it was not far from high water at the time, the depth in this place is probably about 3¾ fathoms at low water.

This Long Middle Bank, can hardly be considered dangerous, for it consists mostly of soft muddy bottom, with seldom less than 4 fathoms water on it; excepting the N. Western part, where there are some patches of 3½ or 3¾ fathoms at low water, over a bottom of hard black sand mixed with mud. A ship drawing 21 or 22 feet water, might probably touch at low tide on these. patches, but this will seldom or never happen, with, proper care. In a ship drawing 20 and 21 feet water, I have frequently crossed: over this bank in different parts, without apprehending any danger. It is, however, best to keep in the proper channel, betwixt, it and the Malay shore. Both it and the Fair Channel Bank are narrow, but of great length.

Sumatra Bank.

SUMATRA BANK or BANKS, the third in number from that adjoining to the Malay shore, is situated to the S. W. of, and nearly parallel to the Long Middle Bank, stretching out about half way from the Sumatra shore, towards the Long Middle Bank.

Its western extreme having depths from 3 to 4 fathoms, is in lat. 1° 27′ N. bearing about S. W. by S. from Mount Formosa, and distant 5 or 6 miles from the East side of Pulo Buca-

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lisse, bearing E. by S. ½ S. from the N. E. point of that island, which forms the projecting part of the Sumatra side of the strait in this part.

In lat. 1° 23′ N., and bearing S. by W. to S. by W. ½ W. from Mount Formosa, there is a projecting part of the bank extending East and West several miles, with depths from 2 to 4 fathoms. In lat. 1° 21′ N., about 4 or 5 miles farther Eastward, and bearing South a little westerly from Mount Formosa, there is another shoal part, with only 1½ and 2 fathoms water on it. These two shoal parts of the Sumatra Bank, last mentioned, lie nearest to the long Middle Bank, being only 4 or 5 miles from it, making the channel betwixt these banks only 4 or 3½ miles wide.

In 1787, the Locko grounded upon the Sumatra Bank in 2½ fathoms at low water, sand and mud, with Mount Formosa bearing N. by E. 10 or 12 leagues, Pulo Pisang E. N. E, about 8 leagues, off the Sumatra shore about 3 leagues. Before grounding, she passed over a bank of 4 fathoms, with Mount Formosa bearing N. ½ E., and Palo Pisang E. N. È. When she floated, they steered N. E., with the boats sounding a-head, shoaled from 5 to 3¾ fathoms, and then deepened to 16 fathoms in the channel betwixt the Sumatra Bank and the Long Middle Bank.

To Pays betwixt it and the Long Middle Bank.

If a ship, in proceeding past Formosa Bank in the night, should, by giving it too wide a birth, get far out in the offing, and at day-light find herself to the southward of the Long Middle Bank, she may continue to sail along the outside of it: or if the wind be contrary, she may work to the S. Eastward betwixt it and the Sumatra Bank, there being a safe channel between them, with soundings of 16 to 19 fathoms, shoaling quick on the edge of either bank. It will be prudent to work nearest the edge of the Long Middle Bank, as the Sumatra Bank is not safe to work upon; and when Pulo Pisang is brought to bear about N. E. by E., she may cross over the Long Middle Bank; for on this part of it, the depths are 5½, 6, or 7 fathoms, in crossing over it to the eastward, to regain the proper channel.

To sail from the Water Islands to Pulo Pisang.

PULO PISANG, bears E. 32° S., 66 or 67 miles from the Outer Water Island; and when abreast of the latter, at 1 to 3 or 4 miles distance, a S. E. by E. course will carry you about the same distance outside of the bank that fronts Formosa River, if not affected by lateral tides. The flood sets generally fair through the strait from the Water Islands to the Carimons, and the ebb in the opposite direction, about 2 miles per hour on the springs. When Mount Formosa is brought to bear about N. E., keep within 3, or at most 4 leagues of the Malay coast, to prevent falling to the southward of the North end of the Long Middle Bank. If the weather is clear, and Pulo Pisang be discerned, keep it between E. by S. ½ S. and E. S. E. ½ S., until Mount Formosa is brought to bear North or N. by W., in working betwixt the North end of the Long Middle Bank and the coast. Pulo Pisang may be brought to bear S. E by E., in standing toward the edge of the bank that lines the coast betwixt it and Mount Formosa, excepting about 2 leagues to the N. W. of that island, it forms an elbow, and should not be borrowed on so close; for there, 5 fathoms are found on the verge of it with Pulo Pisang bearing E. 34° S.; but when nearer Pisang, the outer islet may be brought to bear S. by E. or South. When Mount Formosa is brought to bear N. by W., Pulo Pisang may occasionally be brought to bear E. ½ S. or East, in standing toward the Long Middle Bank. The channel is generally 3½ to 4 leagues broad, and the soundings in crossing over the Fair Channel Bank, will be a guide in working through the channel during the night; or you may stand into 10 or 12 fathoms on the edge of the Shore Bank, and off to 18 or 20 fathoms. In day-light, when abreast of Mount Formosa, and Pulo Pisang be visible bearing E. S. E. or E. S. E. ¼ S., steer for it; either of these bearings, will carry you nearly in mid-channel, between the Long Middle Bank and the shore. When Pulo Pisang draws near, its western side, and the two islets off it, may be approached within ½ a mile if thought proper, as they are bold close to, with 13 and 15 fathoms within a cable's length of them; and in standing off shore about 3½ leagues from the island, you will be close to, or

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upon the S. E. part of the Long Middle Bank, where there are 6 or 6½ fathoms on it. In working, when passing Pulo Pisang, tack about 1½ or 2 miles from it, in 14 to 17 fathoms, and stand not off from it above 3 leagues.

Pulo Cocob, the adjacent coast and mud bank.

PULO COCOB, bearing from Pulo Pisang about S. E. ½ E., distant 4½ or 5 leagues, is a low flat island close to the Malay shore, which may be known by the trees on its N. W. side, being of a bright green colour, low, and resembling grass; but those on its South end, are tall erect poon trees, like those on the adjoining coast, from which it is perceived to be separated by a creek or narrow strait, when the bluff S. E. point of Pulo Cocob that forms the entrance of the strait is bearing N. 16° W. The coast betwixt Pulo Pisang and Pulo Cocob, is lined by a shoal mud bank, with small gaps in it, and projecting spits, which should not be approached under 12 fathoms, for it is generally steep to, from 11 or 12 fathoms. The Gunjavar shoaled suddenly from 14 to 5 fathoms on the edge of it, a little to the S. E. of Pulo Pisang; she had 3 fathoms in stays, and touched the ground, the outermost islet off Pisang bearing N. W. ¼ W., the innermost one N. N. W. ¼ W., distant 2 or 3 miles from Pulo Pisang.

To sail from Pulo Pisang toward Singapore.

Do not bring the outer islet off Pulo Pisang to the westward of N. W., until 4 or 5 miles past Pisang, in standing toward the shore bank; the western part of Pisang may then be brought to bear occasionally N. W., in working toward Pulo Cocob, or stand no nearer the shore than 11 or 12 fathoms.

In the fair channel, between Pulo Pisang and the Little Carimon, the depth is mostly from 16 to 18 fathoms, differing very little, until the water shoals on the edges of the banks that bound it on either side: when the N. Eastern Brother is on with the North end of the Little Carimon, or nearly so, it is a good mark to tack from the South side of the channel, for the depths begin then to decrease quickly on the S. E. end of the Long Middle Bank, when under 13 fathoms. In working during the night, keep the lead briskly going, and do not borrow under 13 or 14 fathoms on either side; with a fair wind, keep in 17 to 19 fathoms about mid-channel.

Little Carimon and the Brothers.

LITTLE CARIMON, bearing from the highest part of Pulo Pisang S. 25° E., about 7 or 7½ leagues, is a high bold island, about 2½ miles in length N. W. and S. E. and 1 mile in breadth, rising to a peak in the centré, covered with trees, and its North end is in lat. 1° 8½′ N. The round islets, called the Brothers, lie to the N. W. of it, the two outermost about 3 miles off, are situated near each other; the other, of similar appearance, lies within a mile of the Carimon, and is not so soon discerned as the two outer ones. About 2 miles to the southward of the Brothers, there is a Rock above water, not far off the Great Carimon, and entirely out of the track of ships.

Great Carimon.

GREAT CARIMON, separated from the S. W. side of the Little Carimon by a narrow passage, has near its North end two high peaked hills, and from the base of these, it consists of low level land, the whole extent of the island being about 3 leagues in a S. S. Easterly direction toward the straits of Durian, and nearly joining to the northern extremity of the island of Sabon. Near the West side of the Great Carimon, there are several low islands of various sizes; and its East side is fronted by a shoal mud bank, but the N. E. point has from 6 to 8 fathoms water very near it, about a mile from the islet that lies in the passage between it and the South end of the Little Carimon: From the South end of the latter, a Flat with 2½ fathoms on it, projects 1 mile off; the depths increasing to 3½, 4, and 5 fathoms, at a greater distance from the Little Carimon.

On the North and East sides, the Brothers and Little Carimon, are bold to approach, with soundings of 18 to 22 fathoms near them, and generally 17 or 18 fathoms in mid-channel betwixt the Little Carimon and the S. E. point of Pulo Cocob, from which it bears S. 15° W.,

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distant 9 or 10 miles: the depths are nearly the same from mid-channel, close to the edge of the bank that projects out from the Malay shore to the distance of 1½ mile; and it stretches from Pulo Cocob entrance, to the eastward around Tanjong Boulus.

Tanjong Boulus,

TANJONG BOULUS, or BOORO, in lat. 1° 15′ N., about 4 miles S. Eastward from Tanjong the South end of Pulo Cocob, and 3 leagues N. E. by N. from the Little Carimon, is the Boutin, southernmost extremity of the Malay peninsula, and of the continent of Asia: it is a broad point of semi-circular low land, having high trees on its western side; and low, bright green mangroves to the eastward. Inland, about 6½ leagues to the northward of Tanjong Boulus, there is an isolated mount, called Goonoong Poolai, or Pontiana; all the adjacent country is low.

and the adjoining mud bank.

The mud bank that extends from Pulo Cocob entrance, around Tanjong Boulus, is steepts to, on the outer edge, and projects about 1½ or 2 miles from the shore. The Milford grounded on it in 1786. His Maesty's ship Dedaigneuse, in company with the fleet from China, in January, 1805, steering W. by N., grounded upon it in the night: she had 8 feet water over the starboard bow, 5 fathoms under the stern, and the anchor laid out with 2/3 of a cable in an E. S. E. direction to heave the ship off by, was in 17 fathoms water. When aground, the N. W. end of Little Carimon bore S. 50° W., South end of it S. 33° W., North Brother W. 28° S., the S. W. end of Pulo Cocob N. 57° W., North side of it N. 48° W., the Eastern rounding of Tanjong Boulus N. 58° E., its Western rounding N. 46° W., the limit between the low green mangroves to the eastward, and the high trees westward, bearing North, off the nearest part of the shore about 1¼ mile. Abreast of Pulo Cocob opening, the mud bank projects a little farther from the shore; and 14 or 15 fathoms is near the verge of it in that part.

Old Strait of Singapore.

From Tanjong Boulus, the coast takes a N. E. direction towards the Old Strait Singapore, having Pulo Marambon, called also Isle Cobra, in the entrance, which is formed between the main and the West part of Singapore Island. This strait is from ½ a mile to 1½ mile broad, with soundings of 5 or 6, to 9 or 10 fathoms, bounded on the South side by the large island Singapore, and on the North by the main land of Johore and the contiguous islands. Betwixt the East point of Singapore Island and Johore Hill, the eastern mouth of the Old Strait communicates with the large strait, now in general use; the former being more contracted, with strong tides, is now seldom chosen by any ship.*

Course from Tanjong Boulus to pass Tree Island.

Tides.

FROM abreast of Tanjong Boulus, at 3 or 4 miles distance, the course is about E. S. E. to pass on the North side of Tree Island, and to round the Rabbit and Coney at the entrance of Singapore Strait; but this must depend on the direction of the wind and tide, the latter being very irregular hereabout, occasioned by the various islands and channels, and the meeting of the tides. Because, the flood from the Bay of Bengal, continues to set through the strait to the Carimons, and about Tree Island, it meets the flood tide which comes from the China Sea by the Strait of Singapore, producing a division of tides in this place. About Tree Island, the tide sometimes sets fair through the channel, about W. N.W. and E. S. E., 5 or 6 hours each way; and at other times, 6 hours in one direction, and 12 or 18 hours in the opposite direction, very irregular. It sometimes sets about N. W. and S. E., frequently North and South in a direct line across the channel, betwixt the Straits of Durian and the West entrance of the Old Strait of Singapore. After getting 8 or 9 miles to the eastward of the Little Carimon, it is prudent in the night to anchor, for it would then be very dangerous to pass Tree Island, on account of the uncertainty of the tides, unless Barn Island is distinctly seen, and its bearing obtained correctly.

* Captain Benners, in an American ship, went into the eastern entrance of the Old Strait, several years ago, and anchored at Johore in search of pepper. At leaving that place, he passed to the westward through the Old Strait, backed and filled with the tide most of the way, and had no less water than 5 fathoms, regular soundings. On the West side of the anchorage of Singapore Road, there is a narrow passage into a Middle Strait, through which Capt. Robert Scott came, when passenger in a Buggess Proa from Gooty, on the East coast of Borneo, bound to Prince of Wales' Island, in 1797; and for which, he gives the following directions.
If you intend to proceed through the passage within St. John's, steer into the bight towards Singapore, till you open the strait's mouth, which is very narrow, but deep; having entered it, keep in mid-channel till through, then steer for a small sandy island with a tree on it, which leave on your left hand about ½ a mile; afterward, keep near the starboard shore till you open the mouth of the narrow strait leading into the Old Strait of Singapore, and keep nearly in mid channel, as both sides are fronted by some sunken rocks. After getting in, there are 5 and 6 fathoms all through the strait; and when clear out, you will see the North part of the Little Carimon bearing W. by S., steer then about W. S. W. ½ S., till past Tanjong Boulus, and afterward steer for Pulo Pisang. If chased by an enemy, this passage might be tried, and should you not like to venture the whole of the way, you might probably save your vessel by getting inside of this strait, although it is too narrow for large ships.

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9th. SINGAPORE STRAIT; DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING THROUGH IT, INTO THE CHINA SEA.

Singapore Strait.

SINGAPORE STRAIT, (called Governor's Strait, or New Strait, by the French and Portuguese) may be considered to commence at Tree Island, which is the first danger in the approach to it, and where the channel becomes narrow; from thence, it extends about 17 leagues to Pedro Branco, situated at its eastern entrance.

Tree Island.

TREE ISLAND or BANK,* in lat. 1° 7½′ N., bearing from the North end of the Little Carimon East a little southerly, distant about 5 or 5¼ leagues, and from the Coney off the South end of Barn Island W. 9° S., distant 5 or 6 miles, is a bank of rocks and sand very little elevated above the sea at high water, having on it two small trees or bushes, separated from each other. From the West and N. W. part, a reef or spit projects 1 mile, on the extremity of which, the water shoals when passing near, and it ought not to be approached under 13 or 14 fathoms.

to pass it.

In clear weather during the day, the North Peak of the Great Carimon on with the South Point of the Little Carimon, is a fair mark for passing Tree Island; but in dark weather, or when passing it with clear weather in the night, Barn Island is the best guide.

The South end of Barn Island kept E. by S., is a mid-channel bearing, in passing Tree Island. With a working wind, do not near the shoal on the North side of the channel, more than to bring the South end of Barn Island E. S. E., nor approach Tree Island nearer, than to have the same, bearing E. 5° S. Abreast of the N. E. point of Tree Island, we had 13 and 14 fathoms, being near it, with the South end of Barn Island bearing E. 3° S.; but it should not be brought to the Eastward of E. 5° S. or E. 4° S., when abreast of the N. W. end of Tree Island.

Red Island, and the Brothers.

RED ISLAND, distant 2¾ miles, nearly E. S. E. from Tree Island, and S. 46° W. 3¼ miles from the Coney, is small, with a beach of red sand, and covered with green trees. The Brothers, about ¾ and 1½ mile S. E. by S. from Red Island, are two islands covered with trees; the northern one called Long Island, is low, situated about half way between Red Island and the other, called Round Island, which is small, and considerably elevated.

Passage betwixt Tree and Red Island.

There is a passage to the southward of Tree Island, and betwixt it and Red Island, through which the ship La Paix, Capt. Wright, sailed on her voyage from Bengal to China, in July, 1805. They carried soundings of 15 and 20 fathoms to the southward of Tree Island, and shoaled to 8 fathoms soft bottom when abreast of Red Island, about ½ a mile distant.

In December, 1811, the Charlotte, with several other ships under convoy of H. M. S. Clorinda, from China, rounded the Coney in the night, and the wind being scant from the

* See a former section, "Directions for Sailing through the Straits of Durian, and Phillip's Channel," for a farther description of this, and other dangers. It is proposed to erect a Lighthouse, or Beacon with a light, upon Tree Island, to guide ships in passing it in the night.

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Kent Rock.

northward, in hauling up for the Carimon, they fell to leeward of Tree Island,* seen on the weather bow, which was unsafe. At this time, most of the ships tacked, but the Charlotte grounded on the KENT ROCK, † which is about 20 feet squarer having on it 1½homs at low water, with 5½ and 6 fathoms all round, deepening to 8, 10, 15, 17, and 35 fathoms at a small distance to the N. Eastward of it. When upon the rock, Tree Island bore from N. 63° W. to N. 85° W., Red Island S. 57° E., just touching the East end of Long Island, Round Island S. 51° E., the Rabbit a sail's breadth open with St. John's N. 67° E., Coney N. 72° E., Barn Island N. 54° E. to N. 65° E. She lay on the rock till high water, then floated off, and when aground on it, the tide ran past her about 4 knots to the southward; whilst the other ships, and the frigate, at anchor within 2 cables' lengths of the rock, experienced a tide only of 1 knot per hour.

This appears to be the same rock, on which the ship Mandarian was lost the year preceding, and it seems to have been known to English navigators at an early period. In the Kent's journal, February, 1708, is the following remark, "after rounding the Rabbit and Coney close, came no nearer Tree Island, (probably Red Island), than 30 fathoms, being the lee side, and an ugly rock in the channel, which I have struck upon formerly, is unknown to most persons which come this way: it is about 3 miles East from the easternmost single tree on the Sandy Island," (Tree Island).

Sultan's Shoal.

SULTAN'S SHOAL, on which the ship of this name grounded in 1789, has only 3 feet on the shoalest part at low water; near the edge of it, there are from 3, to 4, 5, and 6 fathoms, and about a cable's length off it, 12 fathoms. When aground on it, the North end of the Little Carimon bore W. by S. ½ S., an island near the Old Strait entrance N. W. by N. Northerly, the South end of Barn Island E. S. E. ½ S., and the Rabbit and Coney just' open, distant about 6 miles. This shoal is about 5 miles N. Westward from Barn Island, and nearly the same distance to the northward of Tree Island, being the only danger known on the North side of the channel between Tanjong Boulus and Barn Island.

Soundings in the channel, and near the shoals.

Anchorage.

The soundings in the fair channel between Tree Island and the Sultan's Shoal, are irregular, from 15 to 25 fathoms; generally 14 to 16 fathoms near Tree Island, deepening to 22 and 24 fathoms in the North side of the channel, until the decrease is sudden to 12 and 8 fathoms on the edge of the Sultan's Shoal. In that part of the channel comprised betwixt Tree Island and Barn Island, the depths are mostly from 16 to 9 fathoms, but there are some banks of 6½, 7, 8, and 9 fathoms in the fair channel, proper for anchorage; and on the West side of Barn Island, at ¾ to 1½ mile off it, there is good anchorage in 8 to 11 fathoms out of the stream, where ships may stop tide, or anchor during the night.

Barn Island:

BARN ISLAND, ‡ bearing E. ¼ N. 7 or 7¼ leagues from the North end of the Little Carimon, and E. by N. ½ N. 5 miles from Tree Island, is moderately elevated, of a square level aspect, covered with trees, and discernible at 5 leagues distance; it is bold to approach en the West side to 9, 10, or 11 fathoms, about ½ or ¾ of a mile off, but the shore is rocky at low water, in landing with a boat.

Aligator Island;

ALIGATOR ISLAND, nearly joins to the N. W. end of Barn: Island, the space be-

* After rounding the Coney in the Gunjavar, in 1789, and hauling up W. N. W. with the wind at North, the night became very dark, lost sight of Barn Island: we thought the tide was setting fair through the channel to the W. N. W., but having lost the lead, the first cast after preparing another, was 5 fathoms; the helm was instantly put down, and the anchor let go when the ship carne head to the wind, and found the tide setting South. At day-light, we had not room. to cast, until the wind shifted, being within a cable's length of the rocks projecting from the S. E. end of pree Island.

† See this, and another Rock described, in the section, "Directions for Sailing through the Straits of Durian and Philip's Channel."

‡ Called Square Island, or Passage Island, by the French.

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adjacent islands and reefs.

tween them affording no passage for ships; it is about the same size and height as Barn Island, of a sloping form, one end lower than the other: this island may be approached on the S. W. side occasionally to 10 or 11 fathoms, about ¾ of a mile, or 1 mile off. To the northward of it, lies Pulo Bookura, eastward of the Sultan's Shoal: and all these islands, extending from Barn Island to the entrance of the Old Strait, and to St. John's, are united by reefs and dangers, mostly covered at high water.

Rabbit and Coney.

RABBIT and CONEY, are two small round islets, connected with the S. E. end of Barn Island by a reef of rocks partly dry at low water; the Coney, or outermost, is the smallest, distant from the point of Barn Island a small ½ mile. The Rabbit is on with the centre of Barn Island bearing N. 51° W., the Coney is on with it N. 33° W., and these islets are on with each other bearing N. 19° E.

From the top of the Coney, Capt. Ross, observed by Theodolite, the highest peak of the Great Carimon to bear S. 78° 25′ W., Middle Peak of ditto S. 86° 5′ W., Tree on Tree Island S. 81° 9′ W., being nearly under the Middle Peak of the Great Carimon, Large Tree on Red Island S. 44° 37′ W., Buffalo Rock N. 89° 45′ E., South point of St. John's Island N. 61° 43′ E.

Directions.

Ships keep near the Coney in passing, as the depths within 2 cables' lengths of it are from 20 to 25 fathoms. In working here, do not stand far over toward the South Shore, in case of falling calm; for the water is deep on that side, with a rocky bottom unfavorable for anchorage, and some rocks not visible at high water, lie about a mile off the projecting part of that shore.

To sail from the Little Carimon to the Coney.

When in mid-channel between Tanjong Boulus and the Little Carimon, in 17 to 20 fathoms water, steer E. S. E. or S. Eastward, as the prevailing wind and tide require, observing to bring the North point of the Little Carimon W. ½ S., or draw gradually the North Peak of the Great Carimon in one with the South point of the Little Carimon, bearing about W. by S. ½ S., which will carry you about 2 miles to the North of Tree Island. If the wind is southerly, borrow toward it to 14 fathoms, about a mile distant, (but no nearer) which will favor you in rounding the Rabbit and Coney. The South end of Barn Island kept E. ½ S., is the best guide in passing Tree Island with a southerly wind; E. by S. is the mid-channel bearing; and in working, you may traverse with it bearing from E. 5° S. to E. S. E., in passing between Tree Island and the Sultan's Shoal. Having passed Tree Island, a S. Easterly course should be steered, to round the Coney at from 2 cables' lengths to 1 or 1½ mile distant; or if the wind and tides are adverse, or a dark night coming on, anchor to the westward of Barn Island, out of the strength of the tides.

The channel from the Coney to St. John's.

ST. JOHNS South Point, or the small islets close to, and appearing as part of that island, bear from the Coney E.25° N., distant 11 miles. A direct line, or straight course between them, is the fair track along the North side of the channel, in irregular soundings mostly from 18 to 30 fathoms, sand and gravel, or rotten rock, where you may anchor occasionally; but the South side of the strait, must be avoided, the depths there being great, and the bottom rocky and dangerous. St. John's is composed of two moderately elevated sloping islands, extending North and South, separated by a narrow gut, with 4 fathoms water in it quite through; and they appear as one island, with a regular convex outline, until close to their southern extreme, when the gap between them is perceived. Close to the South point of the Western Island there is a small islet, which is steep to, having 18 to 25 fathoms within a cable's length of it: and nearly close to the East side of the Eastern Island, there is also a round islet, having 18 and 20 fathoms water very near it on the East side. This is called Signal Island as a signal post has been fixed here, since Singapore became a British settlement. About a mile, or rather less, to the westward of the South point of St. John's,

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there are two small round islands, with 20 or 25 fathoms water near them on the S. E. side, but rocks join them to the northward.

Middle Island.

Reefnear it

Other reefs on the NOrth side of the channel.

MIDDLE ISLAND, situated on the North side of the channel, rather nearer to St. John's than to the Coney, is a low green island, with others extending from it to the N. Westward. A spit or prong, projects from the S. E. end of Middle Island; and to the E. S. Eastward about a large mile from it, there is a reef of rocks always covered, except at very low tides, some points of the rocks being then just discernible, even with the surface of the water. There is deep water inside of this reef, for the Carron, and other ships returning from China in 1804, after passing from St. John's toward the Coney in the night, got on the North side of it, having hauled over too much in the North side of the channel. The reef being a steep coral wall on that side, the Carron rubbed against it without receiving any damage. Some of the Europe fleet from China, in 1809, also got within this reef during the night, and the ship Dart struck on it, by standing too far over to the northward in working. The South point of St. John's kept E. N. E. ½ N., carries a ship clear of it to the southward. The North side of the channel between Barn Island and Middle Island, is bounded mostly by shoals and coral reefs, partly dry at low water.

Dangers in the South side of it.

DANGERS in the South side of the channel, are 1st, a reef of rocks about 3¾ or 4 miles to the S. Eastward of the Coney, always covered, except at low water it is partly visible. The Snow Forth anchored in 40 fathoms about ½ a mile from this reef, and was obliged to cut from her anchor, it having hooked a rock.

Buffalo Rock.

BUFFALO ROCK, about 4 miles N. Eastward from the former, bears East or E. 1° N. from the Coney 6 or 6½ miles, from the South point of St. John's S. 34° W. about 5½ miles, and from the centre of Middle Island S. 23° E., distant 4 miles, being situated nearly in mid-strait betwixt the latter island and the southern shore. It is a black rock about the size of a long boat, always seen above water, with soundings of 30 and 40 fathoms near it. The ship Soliman Shah, having got over on that side of the strait during light winds, was drifted by the tide close to the Buffalo Rock, and let go her anchor in 60 fathoms, from which she cut when a breeze sprung up, to keep clear of the danger. Betwixt the Buffalo Rock and the reef off the S. E. end of Middle Island, is the narrowest part of the strait; it is prudent in working here, to keep nearest the North side of the channel, making short tacks, and not to deepen above 30 or 34 fathoms toward the Buffalo Rock, and the South side of the strait.

Two Rocky Ledges.

TWO LEDGES OF ROCKS, bearing S. 42° E. and S. 45° E. from the gap, or South point of St. John's, distant 5 or 5½ miles, and about 2 leagues eastward from the Buffalo Rock, lie near each other, and part of them is always visible above water. There are overfalls, and shoal water near them to the N. E. and Eastward, which with the dangers before mentioned, make it prudent to avoid the South side of the strait, until several miles to the eastward of St. John's.*

Tides.

THE TIDES set fair through the channel about E. N. E. and W. S.W. between the Coney and St. John's, frequently very rapid, with eddies on the springs. Their velocity when strongest, is from 4 to 4½ miles per hour, making it unpleasant to anchor here in large

* It has been said, that an American ship passed along the South side of the strait, betwixt it and the Buffalo Rock, and these ledges to the S. E. of St. John's, without discovering any other dangers; but there is great reason to think, that the bottom is generally rocky on that side, and the tides very irregular, occasioned by the various inlets among the islands which form it; the passage along it, must therefore be narrow, intricate, and dangerous, and ought not to be attempted. Even were it surveyed, the northern channel being wider, would still be found preferable.

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ships when the weather is unsettled in the night, particularly if unacquainted. When the weather is favorable, and the tides moderate, you may conveniently anchor in any part of the North side of the channel, betwixt the Coney and St. John's, should calms or other circumstances render it necessary to stop tide; but the best anchorage is fronting Middle Island, upon a bank of rotten rock and course sand, having soundings on it from 15 to 18 fathoms.

How to act if a cable part in the night.

Anchorage.

Wood and water.

If at anchor during the night, the weather become squally, making a ship sheer about with a strong tide, and part her cable, do not let go another anchor, except it be very dark; but run as the wind permits, either round the Coney, and anchor to the westward of Barn Island, out of the tide; or round the South point of St. John's, and anchor to the N. East of it, in 10 to 16 fathoms, in Singapore Outer Road. With the body of St. John's bearing from W. S.W. to S.W. by W., about 1½ or 2 miles off the beach, the anchorage is good, upon the mud bank, and here the tide is very weak. In approaching this anchorage from the eastward, reduce sail in time, as the depths decrease quickly from 30 and 26, to 16 fathoms on the bank, and in a dark night, it would be imprudent to anchor under 12 or 14 fathoms, for Rocky Flats stretch out from the islands that lie between St. John's and Singapore, with very irregular soundings near their edges of 19, to 6 or 4 fathoms. On Barn Island, firewood may be procured, and at a little distance from the shore of the gap that separates the two islands of St. John's, there is said to be a pond of good water on the easternmost island, overshaded by the trees.

Set of the tides irregular.

Abreast of the South end of St. John's, a ship ought not to anchor if it can be avoided, for the water is deep, and the tides run in eddies, with greater rapidity than in any other part of the strait. The flood has been observed in both monsoons, to run to the westward 10 or 12 hours at a time, or even 18 hours, strong and weak, alternately; at other times, the flood sets only 6 hours to the westward, and the ebb the same length of time to the eastward, but the tides throughout Singapore Strait, are seldom very regular, The perpendicular rise and fall, is about 12 to 14 feet on the springs.

To sail through the channel from the Coney to S. John's;

THE CHANNEL betwixt the Coney and St. John's, should not be attempted in the night, if unacquainted, or the weather be not clear; but in settled weather, there is little danger to be apprehended in passing through the channel with the tide, in a handy middle sized ship, even with a contrary wind, if a little acquainted, by attending to the following instructions.

If the night is not very dark, either Barn Island or St. John's will be visible, and when mid-way between them, both at the same time. As a guide, use the South end of either of these islands, which ever is most conspicuous. The South end of Barn Island W. ¾ S. W. by S. ½ S. are good bearings; or the South end of St. John's from N. E. by E. to E. N. E. ½ N.; but when near it, the South end of this island may be brought from E. N. E. ½ N. to N. E. in working. The narrowest part of the channel, is when the Buffalo Rock bears S. by E. to South, betwixt it and the reef projecting to the eastward of Middle Island; and to know in the night, when you are in this part of the channel, Middle Island will in general be perceived nearer, and more distinctly than the other islands on the North side of the channel. When approaching the meridian of the Buffalo Rock, observe, that it bears S. 23° E. from the centre of Middle Island; when, therefore, this island is bearing about N. N.W., keep the South end of St. John's E. N. E. ½ N. to E. N. E. ¾ N., or the South end of Barn Island W. by S. ½ S., which is a good bearing until about 2 miles to the eastward of Middle Island; being then past the reef on the North side of the channel, and well to the eastward of the Buffalo Rock, steer direct for the South point of St. John's, or make short tacks if the wind is contrary, to pass it at a small distance.

Geo. Site of Singapore.

SINGAPORE TOWN, in lat. 1° 17′ 22″ N. lon. 103° 51′ E. (the Flagstaff) is situated 4 miles directly North from the centre of St. John's, or North a little westerly from Signal

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Island, and it is rapidly advancing in population, and commercial prosperity. This place will probably soon become of great importance, both as a central depot for trade, and as a naval station for the protection of British commerce in the event of a war, the harbour being perfectly secure fur numerous ships of any size, and its proximity to the China, and Java Seas, adds greatly to the value of this lately acquired settlement. Pulo Panjang or Long Island, has a bill on it, and is separated from the South point of Singapore, by a narrow passage leading into the Old Little Strait of Singapore, now called New Harbour, which is fronted by Pulo Branni, a small round island, and on the North side of this island, between it and Singapore Point, is the passage, having soundings of 15 to 10 fathoms in the entrance, and from 9 to 8 fathoms inside. Here, ships might be easily protected by batteries erected on the contiguous hills or shores, which form this secure harbour, and docks may hereafter, probably be constructed at this place, for affording repairs to shipping.

There is a cove to the N. Eastward of the town, about ¾ of a mile in length, and ¼ of a mile wide, with depths of 9 to 6 feet water, convenient for proas or small vessels, the entrance of which, is formed on the eastern side by Sandy Point. Deep Water Point, distant about 1½ mile East from the point last mentioned, has 5 and 6 fathoms water very near it, and inside of a narrow spit of 2½ fathoms, which fronts it at the distance of a small half mile.

In the Outer Road of Singapore, there is a narrow mud bank, extending about 2 miles nearly N. E. by E. and S.W. by W., which might be alarming to strangers, although the least water on it is 4¾ fathoms near its western extremity, with Signal Island bearing S. by W. to S. S.W., about 1½ to 2 miles: the East end of this mud bank bears South from Deep Water Point 1¾ mile, and has soundings near it all round, from 7 or 8, to 9, 10, and 11 fathoms. About ½ a mile inside of the mud bank the depths are 11 and 12 fathoms; and ¼ mile farther in, 8 or 9 fathoms, about 1½ mile distance from Singapore Town, and the same from Sandy Point, which is the proper anchorage in the road or harbour. Under 8 or 7 fathoms, the water shoals quickly to 3½ fathoms, about a mile off Sandy Point, bearing about North, and Singapore Town W. by N. ½ N., which is a convenient anchorage for small vessels.

To sail into Singapore Road, in coming from the westward; after having passed near to St. John's and Signal Island, steer N. by E. or North, as the wind or tide may require, and you will shoal to 5 fathoms on the mud bank, and afterward deepen to 11 or 12 fathoms: continue the same course till in 9 or 8 fathoms, then reduce sail, to be ready to anchor, which may be conveniently done in 7 or 6 fathoms, with the Flagstaff on the hill at the back of the town, about W. N.W., Signal Island about S. by W., and Deep Water Point N. E., off. shore about 1½ mile. If working into the road, do not borrow toward the islands between St. John's and Singapore, nearer than to bring Signal Island to bear South, or S. ½ E. at farthest. It is proposed to erect a lighthouse at Singapore, as a guide for ships in the night when entering into the road, as they are liable to mistake the various lights of the town.

Sailing Dircetions.

FROM THE SOUTH END of St. John's, Pedro Branco bears E. by N., distant 11 or 12 leagues, and until several miles past St. John's, the South side of the strait must be avoided, on account of the ledges of rocks and overfalls already mentioned; but the North side is safe to approach to 12 or 10 fathoms, betwixt St. John's and the Red Cliffs near the East end of Singapore island, for the depths along the South side of this island, decrease pretty regularly from 36 or 40 fathoms in mid-strait, to 12 or 10 fathoms within 1 mile of the shore, all good anchoring ground. The depths in mid-strait, are generally between 32 and 40 fathoms from St. John's until nearly abreast of the Red Cliffs, and then decrease to 20 or 18 fathoms: they are irregular from 12 to 16 fathoms near 13attaw N. E. Point, which bounds the entrance of Rhio Strait on the West side, and bears E. ¼ S. from the South end of St. John's, distant about 4 leagues.

The Southern Shore, adjacent to Battam N. E. Point, is safe to approach within 2 or 3

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miles, but mid-strait is the best track with a fair wind, or even in working, to benefit by the strength of the tide, when it is favorable. If in deep water, and losing ground, haul in toward the Singapore side, and anchor in 15, to 18 or 20 fathoms. When the East part of the Red Cliffs, or the East end of Singapore Island is brought to bear about N. by W., the North side of the strait ought not to be approached nearer than 2 leagues, but the mid-channel track ought to be preserved, in passing Johore Shoal, off the entrance of the Old Strait of Singapore. The South coast of Singapore Island, is level and woody, with two Red Cliffs, one of which being to the northward of the East point, is not visible unless the entrance of the strait is well open: the opposite side of the strait is also woody, but not so level as the former.

Johore Shoal,

With direction.

JOHORE SHOAL, is composed of hard sand, having 2½ fathoms on its shoalest part at low water, 3 and 3½ fathoms on its southern extremity, and from 12, to 14 or 15 fathoms very near to it, on the South, East, and Western sides. The South end of St. John's bears from its eastern extremity S.W. by W. ½ W.; Johore Hill N. N. E. South Cape of Johore E. by N. ½ N., and it is 3 or 4 miles distant from Johore Point, and 4 or 4¼ mites distant from the East point of Singapore Island, directly fronting the entrance of the Old Strait of Singapore. A small hill on the East side of this strait, to the northward of Johore Hill, called False Johore Hill, bears North from the East end of the shoal, and this small hill is in one with the East point of Singapore Island bearing N. 40° E. As the water shoals quickly from 17 or 18, to 15, 12, then 4 fathoms on its eastern extreme, do not borrow under 16 or 17 fathoms toward it, but keep about mid-strait in the night, attending to the lead if your distance from either shore is not distinctly perceived. In day-light, the Island St. John's kept W. by S., is a fair bearing in passing the shoal, and also in passing through the strait to the eastward: but if the South end of St. John's is kept to the westward of S. 65° W., you will pass clear of the shoal. Captain W. Owen examined this shoal in H. M. brig, Seaflower, in April and September, 1807, and found it extend from the easternmost Red Cliffs of Singapore Island in a long flat spit to the eastward, with 2½ fathoms on it at low water, and no apparent passage between it and that island, except for small vessels, but the water shoals gradually toward its western part. Between the East end of the shoal and Johore bluff point, there is a safe channel 2 or, 2½ miles wide, leading into the Old Strait of Singapore, with depths of 8 to 12 fathoms, decreasing to 5 and 4½ fathoms near the shore, and to 6 fathoms near the North side of the shoal. To avoid Johore Shoal in coming from the eastward, come no nearer to the North shore than 17 fathoms after Johore Hill bears North or Barbucit Hill N. E. ¾ E.* The breadth of the channel from Johore Shoal to Battam N. E. Point, nearly opposite to it, on the South shore, is about 6 miles, and the soundings between them, are mostly from 20 to 24 fathoms in the fair track, decreasing toward the edge of the shoal, and also near the South shore to the westward of the point; but to the N. Eastward of this point, off the entrance of Rhio Strait, there are 30 and 34 fathoms in some places. Close to Battam N. E. Point, there is a small island with rocks contiguous to it.

Johore Hill and the adjacent coast.

JOHORE HILL, is of a regular oblong sloping form, covered with trees, situated a little inland from the bluff, called Johore Point, which forms the East side of the entrance of the Old Strait of Singapore; a little inside of which, the river and town of Johore is situated, formerly a place of considerable trade, but now unfrequented. Betwixt the East point of

* The Kent, in February, 1708, from Point Romania, kept in 10, 12, and 13 fathoms to Johore Point, and in steering out to the southward got 4 fathoms on Johore Shoal, and the boat near the ship had 3 and 2½ fathoms coral rocks. Her journal has the following remark; "To avoid this dangerous shoal, let no one come nearer the Bluff White Sandy Point (Red Cliffs) that forms the West side of the entrance into Johore, than 12 fathoms, which is about 5 miles off shore." In the London's journal, June 26th, 1700, it is stated, that Johore Shoal projects ¾ of the strait's breadth from the western shore. This ship lay about a month at Johore, taking in pepper.

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Singapore Island and Johore Shoal, the passage is not safe for ships of large size, as the shoal is thought to be joined to the point by a spit of 2 and 2½ fathoms, which Captain Court passed over in a small vessel.

Barbucit Hill and the coast.

BARBUCIT HILL, in lat. 1° 24½ N., bearing from Pedro Branco W. 17½° N., distant 14½ miles, is a regular pyramid rising from the low land, about 2½ leagues E. N. Eastward from Johore Hill; and being only about 5 miles inland from Point Romania, it is used as a mark in entering the strait. About mid-way between Johore Point and Barbucit Hill, the land of Johore projects farthest to the southward, and is called the South Cape, which bears nearly E. ½ S. from Johore Point, and West from Pedro Branco; the land between it and Johore Point forms a bay, with shoal water in it, but the depths decrease gradually. There is an indifferent watering place in this bay, near the second point to the westward of the South Cape, inside of a low black rock, situated near the shore.

Point Romania, contiguous bays and watering places.

POINT ROMANIA, in lat. 1° 22½′ N., distant about 5 miles to the E. N. E. of the South Cape, forms the S. E. extremity of the Malay Peninsula; which, with the circumjacent coast, is level land, and covered with trees. Close to Point Romania on the West side, lies Romania River, having 2 or 3 feet water at its narrow entrance, at low tide, and gable by boats 2 or 3 miles inland. Although nothing is found here but timber, fish, and reptiles, water may be procured with ease in this river, during the N. E. monsoon; but there are several better and more convenient watering places, in the sandy bays betwixt Point Romania and a small round island called Watering Island, about 3 miles to the westward, directly under Barbucit Hill. Inside of this island, there is an excellent stream upon the main, where fresh water may be got with facility in either monsoon; but in the N. E. monsoon, the streams betwixt it and Point Romania are more convenient. In the eastern extremity of the long sandy bay, which contains Watering Island at its western part, there is a large rivulet, having shoal water projecting a considerable way out from the entrance, with rocks containing beds of excellent oysters.

The coast safe to approach.

The whole of the coast of Johore, from Johore Point to Point Romania, may be approached by the lead; the water shoals quickly from 25, to 15, 11, and 10 fathoms, on the edge of the bank that fronts it, then more gradually to 4 fathoms, and there is thought to be no danger at the distance of ½ a mile from the shore. Some spots lie near the shore betwixt Johore Point and Point Romania, one of which has 7 fathoms on it, and 13 fathoms around; but there is said, to be no less water on any of these detached spots.

Romania Islands rocks or reefs near them.

ROMANIA ISLANDS, fronting the point of this name, are six in number, the westernmost or largest one is composed of two islands very near each other, joined by a reef. The Northernmost, and S. Easternmost, are two barren rocks, but the others are covered with trees; they extend about 2½ miles N. E. and S.W., the largest being within a mile of the point, and the nearest to it. There is a rock about 12 feet above water near the South point of South Island, and South Reef, consisting of straggling rocks extending to the eastward, which are bold to approach on the South side: but there is a rocky patch with 3½ fathoms on it, about 1½ mile South from Point Romania, and the same distance S. S. W. from the S. W. or largest island.

The Whales Crown, a rock scarcely visible at high tide, lies ¾ of a mile or more, to the eastward of South Reef, having 7 fathoms close to it, and 8 or 9 fathoms around. There is a shoal S. W. from the northernmost islet, about a cable's length, the other rocks amongst these islands are mostly above water, and there are 7 fathoms between South Reef and the islands; there is also deep water around the large island, and betwixt it and the others, with soft bottom, excepting near the rocks. South Reef extends N. E. and S. W. about three cables lengths; from its S. W. point, the bluff, next to Point Romania bears N. by W. ½ W.,

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Barbucit Hill on with the North Hump of the Large Island W. by N. ½ N., and the point of Watering Island West, having on it a remarkable green tree.

Little Inner Channel,

LITTLE INNER CHANNEL, formed between Point Romania and the islands, may be considered safe for small vessels, with a leading wind, and forms a good harbour in the S. W. monsoon, the bottom being all soft. Capt. Owen, in H. M. brig Seaflower, found no less water than 5 fathoms in the fair way, in the northern part of the channel, which appeared clear, and of width sufficient for small ships; other navigators have found 4¼ or 4½ fathoms at low water, in some places. Point Romania, is bold to approach, having 4 fathoms within 30 yards of it, 7 fathoms a little farther out, deepening to 12 fathoms toward the largest island, which is a large half mile distant from the point. A ship entering the channel from the southward, or leaving it, may borrow toward South Reef and the largest island, where the depths are greater than near the main; and the best track betwixt it and the other islands, is about mid-channel, or rather nearest to the islands, where the depths are generally from 5 to 9 fathoms.

and contiguous coast.

There is an excellent watering river close round the Rocky Point, about 4 cables' lengths to the northward of Point Romania; the country abounds with various kinds of timber, wild elephants, buffalos, mouse deer, hogs, guanas, monkies, peacocks, &c. with oysters upon the rocks; and it is not inhabited, hereabout. Near Romania River, there is a considerable extent of forest, without much underwood, which is easily penetrated; but in other parts, the woods are generally impervious.

Great Inner Channel.

GREAT INNER CHANNEL, bounded on the West side by the South Reef, the Whales Crown, and a Sunken Rock about ¾ of a mile to the N. E. of the latter; and bounded to the East, by the Southern extremity of Romania Outer Reef, is about 2¾ miles wide between these dangers; but it was little known to Europeans, until Capt. Ross surveyed these channels and dangers in 1818, although formerly used by Chinese junks and coasting vessels.

This channel is safe in day-light, by keeping 1½ mile, at least, to the, eastward of Romania Islands, to give a birth to the dangers near them; and not increasing the distance from the islands above 3 or 3¼ miles, to avoid the S. W. extremity of the Outer Reef. The best track is to keep in mid-channel, about 2 miles from the islands, until the northernmost island bears W. S. W., and then the channel is clear from the Outer Reef to the coast, or about 5 miles wide. The soundings throughout this channel being generally uneven, do not answer as a guide; but they are usually from 7 or 8, to 10 or 11 fathoms, both in mid-channel, and near the dangers on either side, excepting a patch of 5 fathoms about a mile W. by N. from the S. W. end of the Outer Reef, and bearing E. by N. from the northernmost island 2½ miles.

If the wind should be adverse when a ship is proceeding through the southern part of this channel, she ought not to approach the Outer Reef nearer than to bring Pedro Branco S. E., or on the transit line between it and False Barbucit Hill: nor approach the Romania Islands and their adjoining dangers nearer than to bring Pedro Branco E. S. E. ½ S., or on a transit line* between False Bintang Hill and the North Point of Romania, which is situated about 4 miles to the northward of True Point Romania.

Romania outer Reef.

ROMANIA OUTER REEF, is formed of detached spits of sand and patches of coral rock, on which the least water appears to be 2¾ fathoms; and there are gaps of deep water, from 6 to 10 fathoms, betwixt some of them.

* My large Plan of these Dangers and the Soundings around them, in the entrance of Singapore Strait, exhibits these transit lines or marks for the channel.

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The patch of the outer reef nearest to Pedro Branco, bears N. N.W. ¾ W. from it 4½ to 4¾ miles, which is steep to, and dangerous, having on it 18 feet rocks. On this patch, the Anna struck in December, 1800: with the wind N.Westerly, rounding the edge of the reef very close, in soundings from 12 to 9, and once 7 fathoms, a strong ebb tide running to the northward, horsed us amongst the eddies upon the reef, and we had several casts of 7 fathoms. The outer edge of it formed a steep wall, very conspicuous by the deep blue water outside, and white discoloured water within, where the ship touched the rocks in hauling off the reef, although drawing only 19 feet water. She took a considerable careen by the fresh wind and strong tide, and grazed over the rocks into 12 fathoms the first cast, Pedro Branco bearing then S. S. E. ¾ E. about 4¾ miles, southern island off Point Romania W. S.W. ¼ S., South point of the largest island W. by S. ¼ S., and its southernmost hump in one with the South Cape or westernmost point of Romania. A few cables lengths to the southward of this dangerous patch, the depth increases to 16 and 17 fathoms, and it is thought to be the S.Westernmost danger of the outer reef.

To the N. Eastward of the patch last mentioned, there are several others, with 3 and,3½ fathoms on them: the outermost of these, among which H. M. S. Panther got embarrassed, are extensive, and their southern part bears from Pedro Branco N. by W. ¼ W. to N. by W. ¾ W. distant 5 or 5½ miles; they stretch from thence to the northward 1 or 1½ mile, and have 9 and 10 fathoms close to them on the East and S. E. sides. Another spit to the N. Westward of these, bears N. N.W. from Pedro Branco, and E. by N. from Barbucit Hill; between them, the ship General Baird passed, in 6, 8, and 10 fathoms water.

The northernmost patch of Romania outer reef, is in lat. 1° 31′ N., distant from the coast abreast about 10 miles; from Bintang Hill it bears N. 3° W., from Pedro Branco N.9° E. distant 11 miles, and about the same distance from the northernmost Island off Point Romania; from the Largest Island it bears N. 52° E., from Barbucit Hill N. 65° E., and about E. ½ N. from False Barbucit Hill. There is probably no danger on this patch, although the Seaflower had overfalls of 6 and 7 fathoms hard sand on it; but the Hornby shoaled suddenly from 13, to 10, 7, 5, and 4½ fathoms upon it, in coming from the northward, and deepened in hauling out to the eastward as fast as the lead could be hove, to 5, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13, and 14 fathoms; it ought, therefore, to be avoided, as 4½ fathoms is too little water for a large ship when there is much swell. Betwixt this northernmost patch of the reef, and the opposite coast, there is no danger, the depths inside of it being generally from 10 to 15 fathoms; and there seems to be a channel of deep water to the S.W. and Southward, between it and the other more connected patches of the reef. Along the inner edge of the Outer Reef the soundings are mostly 7 or 8 fathoms, and 9, 10, or 11 fathoms about ½ a mile from it, and from thence well over toward the coast nearly the same depths, excepting that 7 or 8 fathoms are got in some places.

False Barbucit Hill.

FALSE BARBUCIT HILL, in lat. 1° 30′ N., is a low sloping hill near the sea, appearing like a tope of trees a little more elevated than the adjacent coast, which is all rather low and woody to the northward of Barbucit Hill. The False Hill bears from Pedro Branco N. 45° W., and being discernible much sooner than the other, during hazy weather, answers as a guide in coming from the North toward the northern extremity of the outer reef.

Geo. Site of Pedro Branco:

the adjacent dangers, and soundings.

PEDRO BRANCO (or White Rock) situated in the middle of the entrance of Singapore strait, is in lat. 1° 20′ N., lon.104° 25½′ E. or 2° 10½′ E. from Malacca, and 9 miles West from Pulo Aor, by mean of many chronometers:* from the largest island off Point

* By many chronometric admeasurements in different voyages to China, corresponding within a mile of each ocher, I made it in this longitude; but Capt. Ross made it only 7¼ miles West from the East Peak of Pulo Aor. Captain Keith Forbes, landed on the S. E. part of Pedro Branco, April 13th, 1813, and had 17 fathoms close to it, which was covered with oysters at the water's edge, from whence a small boat might be filled in an hour.

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Romania, it bears E. 15° S. distant about 8 miles, the same distance from the shore of Bintang, and is in one with the centre of Bintang Hill bearing S. 12½° E. It is small, of white appearance, by birds' dung, not much elevated at high tide, but may be seen 9 or 10 miles from the quarter-deck of a large ship, being just visible when Point Romania bears North, distant 3 or 4 miles; in the night, it cannot be discerned until close to. On the North and N.W. sides, Pedro Branco is steep to, having soundings of 17 fathoms close to the rock, and 30 to 36 fathoms near it, decreasing to 16 and 17 fathoms to the northward, close to the edge of Romania Reef. To the southward, it is dangerous to approach, for two ledges of rocks, called the S. E. Rocks, near to each other, lie about a mile or more to the S. S. Eastward off it, which are very little above the surface at high water. But the S.W. Rocks, is the principal danger, when proceeding through the South channel, which consist of three pointed rocks very little detached from each other, with 8 and 9 fathoms close to, and betwixt them, 16 or 17 fathoms at a very small distance in the stream of them. They bear from Barbucit Hill E. 27° S., from Pedro Branco S. 16° W. distant about 2½ miles, are not visible until the ebb has been made some time, and they are nearly covered before the stream of flood begins to run; from 16 and 17 fathoms close to this danger, the depths are rather irregular to 9 or 8 fathoms, within 2 miles off the Bintang shore.

Geo. Site of Bintang Hill.

BINTANG HILL, in lat. 1° 5′ N., lon. 104° 29′ E., bearing S. 12½° E. from Pedro Branco, distant about 5½ leagues, may be seen in clear weather 14 leagues, and answers as a mark in approaching the entrance of the strait from the northward. When viewed from that direction, it forms a saddle, and adjoining to it on the North side, there is a small conical hill called False Bintang Hill, or Little Hill, the summit of which is central with the saddle of the large hill bearing S. 6° E. When the centre of the Saddle bears South, the summit of the Little Hill is just open with the western shoulder of the Large Hill, and this mark or bearing of Bintang Hill, is a safe guide to carry a ship to the eastward of, but pretty near the outer reef of Romania.

The North side of the Island Bintang, extends nearly E. ½ N. and W. ½ S. about 6 leagues, forming a concavity in the middle of this space; and like most of the other land bounding the Strait of Singapore, it is covered with trees, and excepting the hills inland, not much elevated. About a mile from the shore, N. Eastward of the point that bounds Rhio Strait on the East side, there is a small island, with other rocks or islets near the shore, which should not be approached too close, as a patch with only 2 fathoms on it, lies 1½ mile off the shore of Bintang, and bears S. by W. ¾ W. from Pedro Branco: nor should the Bintang shore be borrowed on, in general under 10 or 9 fathoms, when ships are proceeding through the South channel, for the soundings near it are often irregular, and do not afford a sufficient guide.

Bintang, is the largest island on the South side of Singapore Strait; Pulo Battam on the West side of Rhio Strait, is also of considerable size, from whence, a chain of islands of various magnitudes, separated by narrow guts, extends westward nearly opposite to the Rabbit and Coney.

Eastern Bank.

Patch of s fathoms.

EASTERN BANK, extends from the N. E. part of Bintang, about North and N. by W. 7 leagues, having soundings upon it generally from 10 or 11, to 13 and 14 fathoms. To the distance of 2 or 3 leagues from the N. E. part of Bintang, the depths on it are 10 to 12 fathoms; East from Pedro Branco about 2 leagues, they are irregular, 16 or 18 fathoms in some places; and 11, 12, to 14 fathoms within 1 or 2 miles of that rock on the East side. To the E. N. E. and N. E. of Pedro Branco, about 3 or 4 leagues, the soundings are generally pretty regular on the Eastern Bank, 13 to 14 fathoms, sand and gravel: and in standing off it to the eastward, they gradually increase to 20 fathoms, at 2 or 3 leagues distance. On the northern part of the Eastern Bank, in lat. 1° 32′ N., there is a shoal patch, the least

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water on it 8 fathoms hard bottom, to 10 and 11 fathoms the general depth. It is of small extent, Bintang Hill bearing from it S. ½ W., Barbucit Hill about W. S.W., False Barbucit Hill W. ¾ S., and the northernmost patch of Romania outer reef W. ½ S. or W. by S. distant 4 or 5 miles. Ships getting soundings of 8 to 10 fathoms on this patch of the Eastern Bank, during hazy weather, sometimes think they are on the northern patch of Romania outer reef, then haul more to the eastward, which renders them liable to fall to leeward of the strait, if unacquainted.

Soundings near Romania reef, and in the entrance of the strait.

THE SOUNDINGS are mostly 13 to 15 fathoms, a little irregular in some parts, to the distance of 4 or 5 miles northward from the northernmost patch of Romania outer reef, and from the patch of the Eastern Bank; and they continue nearly the same, until within 3 or 4 miles of the coast: farther to the northward, the depths increase gradually in steering for Pulo Aor, with a regular decrease contiguous to the main land.

Between the shoal patch of the Eastern Bank, and the northernmost patch of the reef, the soundings are a little irregular from 13 to 17 fathoms. Farther to the southward, between the Eastern Bank and the reef, the water deepens to 19, 20, and 22 fathoms; and when Pedro Branco is approached, soundings of 32 to 36 fathoms are found near it to the northward and N.W., decreasing in the North side of the channel to 17 or 16 fathoms sand and gravel, near the southern patches of Romania Reef. To the S.W. and westward of Pedro Branco, the soundings near it are 34 to 28 fathoms; but there are some small banks W. by S. and W. by S. ½ S. about 5 miles from it, with 10 to 15 fathoms water on them, and 20 to 30 fathoms around. Some ships have been in great danger, by getting shoal soundings in this situation, mistaking them for the soundings on the edge of Romania Reef, when attempting to pass out of the strait between Pedro Branco and that reef, in the night. From Romania Islands westward, the strait is clear to Johore Shoal, and the soundings are 18 to 25 fathoms in the fair track, rather more than mid-strait toward the northern shore, decreasing regularly to the latter. In mid-strait, the depths are from 26 to 32 fathoms, decreasing to either side; and the only danger to be avoided in making long tacks, is the Pan Shoal, within the entrance of Rhio Strait, which has been described in the directions for sailing through that strait; but it is out of the track of ships proceeding through the Strait of Singapore.

Tides.

THE TIDES near Pedro Branco, and contiguous to the reef off the Islands and Point Romania, are frequently very irregular, in time, velocity, and direction. In the strength of the N. E. monsoon, when the current runs to the S. S. Eastward from Pulo Aor across the equator, the flood sometimes runs into the entrance of the strait to the S.Westward, 10 or 12 hours at a time; but the ebb generally runs with the greatest velocity, and of longest duration, in both seasons, particularly in the S.W. monsoon. About the full and change of the moon, the ebb often sets out strong during the night, for 10 or 12 hours together, but not very rapid in the first and latter part: at other times, it is fluctuating, and not strong. Betwixt Pedro Branco and the edge of Romania. Reef, the strength of the ebb runs generally about N E. by N. when regular, and the flood in the opposite direction; but I have sometimes observed the tide to set all round the compass during the night and once N. N.W. 2 miles an hour, directly over the reef. About the northern patches of the reef, the tides have also been found at times very irregular, setting East and West, and all round the compass; but their general direction in that part, is nearly North and South, or within two points of the meridian. In the South Channel, betwixt Pedro Branco and Bintang, the flood sets about W. S.W. and W. by S., and the ebb in the opposite direction along the Bintang shore, but subject to irregularities.

On full and change of the moon, it is high water at Pedro Branco about 11 hours, when any regularity is preserved by the tides. The velocity of the ebb when strongest, is from 4 to 4½ miles an hour, in the entrance of the strait, and between Point Romania and Pedro

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Branco; but the flood is not so strong. The velocity of the tides during the neaps, is from 2 to 3 miles an hour, frequently very irregular.

North Channel.

Directions to sail through it into the China Sea.

NORTH CHANNEL, formed between Pedro Branco and Romania Reef, has been hitherto in general use; but it is not quite so wide, nor so safe to adopt in the night, for running out of the strait, as the South Channel along the Bintang shore. Having passed Johore Shoal, about mid-strait, and intending to proceed out of the strait through the North Channel, steer for Pedro Branco, if day-light. With the wind at southward, keep well out from the Romania shore, and endeavour to make Pedro Branco bearing E. N. E. or E. by N., then borrow toward it with the ebb tide, to give a proper birth to the edge of Romania Reef, in steering out of the strait: and do not approach the reef under 16 or 17 fathoms when Pedro Branco bears from S. E. to South, particularly with a southerly wind. After Pedro Branco is brought to bear S. S.W., edge away to the N. Eastward, observing to keep it to the westward of S. S. W. whilst in sight, or having brought the centre of Bintang Saddle Hill to bear South, if visible, steer to the northward along the edge of the reef, keeping that bearing. The summit of the False, or Little Hill, will then be open with the western shoulder of the Large Saddle Hill, which will carry you to the northward between the shoal patch of the eastern bank and the northern patch of the reef, in soundings from 16 to 13 fathoms. The centre of Bintang Hill must not be brought to the eastward of South in passing the N. Eastern part of the reef; for if it bear S. 3° E., you will get upon the north-easternmost patch of the reef, where there are overfalls of hard ground from 6 or 7, to 4½ fathoms.

With a fair wind, or if night is approaching after passing Pedro Branco, or thick weather coming on, do not round the reef close, but continue to steer about 3 leagues to the N. East, before a direct course is pursued for Pulo Aor.

If not so far advanced as to discern Pedro Branco before dark, haul in toward the land, a little to the West of Point Romania, and anchor in from 10 to 18 fathoms, during the night; for it is then dangerous to run out betwixt the reef and Pedro Branco, unless the weather is settled and clear, the breeze favorable and commanding, and the velocity and direction of the tide known at the time; because, the soundings to the westward of Pedro Branco, are irregular in some places, and not a certain guide.

If, however, you are resolved to run out during a clear night (which may sometimes be done by those well acquainted with the channel), pass Point Romania about 4 or 5 miles distance, in soundings of 18 to 22 fathoms, and endeavour to preserve these depths in rounding the reef, borrowing a little on either side of the channel, as the prevailing wind or tide render advisable. When abreast of Pedro Branco, from 18 to 22 fathoms are good soundings with a fair wind, and you will then be much nearer to the reef, than to the former. Be careful on the ebb tide, even with a commanding breeze, not on any account to shoal under 17 or 18 fathoms, until Pedro Branco is passed, and bearing to the westward of South; for with a strong ebb tide, you may be drifted on the edge of the reef without warning, as the distance from 20 to 12 fathoms is very little, and there are 13 and 12 fathoms close to some of the dangerous patches. After passing Pedro Branco, continue to steer 2 or 3 leagues to the eastward, to make certain of being clear of the outer patches of Romania Reef, then a direct course to the northward may be pursued, toward Pulo Aor.

South Channel.

SOUTH CHANNEL, formed betwixt Pedro Branco and its adjoining rocks to the north, and the Bintang shore to the south, being rather wider than the North Channel, is preferable for sailing through in the night, although until recently, it was little known.* The depths

* The Rooke frigate went through the channel betwixt Pedro Branco and Bintang in 1700. Afterward, it seems to have been obscured from the knowledge of Europeans for a great length of time, for English navigators knew of no safe passage, until Captain J. Elmore, in the ship Gratitude, went through in 1734. It is now much frequented, particularly by ships going out, or entering the strait in the night.

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in the South Channel, although not very regular, are usually 7, 8, and 9 fathoms near the shore of Bintang, from 10 to 12 fathoms in mid-channel, and 15 or 16 fathoms near the ledges of rocks to the S. E. and S.Westward of Pedro Branco. The depths in this channel, are much greater to the westward of the meridian of Pedro Branco, than upon, or to the eastward of its meridian, which ought to be kept in remembrance, when passing through in the night.

To sail out by it;

In proceeding out of Singapore Strait, if not so far advanced as to discern Pedro Branco before the evening, steer for the South Channel, by hauling toward the N.W. point of Bintang, if the wind be southerly, observing to give a birth to the small island, and patch of 2 fathoms that lies about 1½ mile off that shore. After passing this small island and the patch in 14 or 15 fathoms, keep within 3 or 3½ miles of the Bintang shore, particularly when abreast of the ledge of rocks to the S. S.W. of Pedro Branco, that bounds the channel on the North side in this part, which is nearly 6 miles wide betwixt the ledge and the Bintang shore. There are 16 and 17 fathoms very near these rocks, and when abreast of them, from 14 to 12 fathoms is a safe track; but the best guide is, to take the soundings from the Bintang shore, hauling in occasionally to 12 fathoms, but not under that depth in the night, and edging out to 11 and 12 fathoms. The bottom in 8 fathoms contiguous to the shore, is often hard sand; but out in 10 and 11 fathoms, about mid-channel, it is clay in some parts, or sand and gravel mixed with clay. You may stand toward the Bintang shore in some places to 8 fathoms in working, during the day, and out to 13 or 14 fathoms; but in the, night, do not deepen to more than 13 fathoms, when abreast of the ledges of rocks adjacent to Pedro Branco.

About S. by E. ¾ E. from Pedro Branco, Capt. Cowman had 5½ fathoms on a bank about 2½ miles from Bintang, with 7 and 8 fathoms close round it, when passing out of the strait of Rhio by the South Channel in the night.

Capt. J. Lamb, of the Palmira, working out through the South Channel, in May, 1821, during the night, put the helm down in 10 fathoms, to stand off from the Bintang shore, but owing to a strong tide running out, the ship missed stays, and although she wore quickly round, shoaled to 6 fathoms: steered then North, with a light breeze, for about half an hour, and was swept along shore by the rapid tide, over very irregular ground, the depths varying from 9 to 6 fathoms at a cast, and once had ¼ less 5 fathoms. During this time, Bintang Saddle Hill was hidden by the low land, and when seen over the land after standing out to 10 fathoms, it bore S. by E. ½ E. From the N. E. extremity of Bintang, a Reef projects to a considerable distance, which ought not to be approached too close.

When proceeding out by night in clear weather, to prevent getting too near the Bintang shore, Capt. Lamb observes, that the summit of Bintang Hill should be kept visible over the low land, and when brought to bear S. by W., you may then edge off to the northward, if certain that the ebb tide is running out of the strait. But if the wind is unsteady, and the direction of the tide unknown, continue to steer N. Eastward for some time, until well outside of Pedro Branco and Romania Reef, to prevent the flood from drifting you near either of these dangers.

You may anchor in the South Channel conveniently day or night, the depths in mid-channel being generally 11 or 12 fathoms, and near the Bintang shore, 9 to 7 or 6 fathoms irregular, hard sand, or sand and clay.

or by Rhio Strait when the N. E. monsoon blows strong.

Ships bound from Singapore to the coast of Borneo, or intending to proceed by the Eastern Passage toward China, are frequently several days working out of Singapore Strait, when the N. E. monsoon blows strong into it at times, in part of November, December, and January. It may therefore, be advisable, for a ship after reaching the entrance of Rhio Strait, and finding the weather dark and cloudy, with a strong gale blowing from the N. Eastward, not to lose time working out to the eastward with the ebb tide, and anchoring on the flood; for in such case, she may save considerable fatigue to the crew, wear of ground tackle, and

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probably some time, by proceeding to the S. Eastward through Rhio Strait. Here, she will have smooth water and favorable breezes, and when through it, she may haul to the S. Eastward between Geldria's Shoal and Lingin, then steer eastward for the Carimata Passage, as the wind generally draws to the northward when the equator is approached. In the Section marked, "Sailing Directions from Banca Strait to Pulo Aor," remarks are given for sailing through the Strait of Rhio.

DIRECTIONS to ENTER SINGAPORE STRAIT, and to RETURN BY IT, and MALACCA STRAIT.

To sail from Pulo Aor, to Singapore Strait;

DURING the strength of the N. E. monsoon, the current sets generally to the South or S. S. E., between Pulo Aor and the East end of Bintang, by which, ships running for Singapore Strait, are liable to fall to the southward of its entrance in thick weather, if proper allowance be not made. If at anchor under Pulo Aor, you ought not to weigh until past midnight, particularly with a fresh breeze, that the approach be not too close to the entrance of the strait before day-light; and the same rule may be observed if you heave to, near the island in the evening, to let some hours pass over prior to bearing away for the strait.

in clear,

Departing from Pulo Aor, steer to bring it bearing about North, when disappearing: if the weather be clear, Bintang dill and Pulo Aor may be seen together, but this seldom happens. Do not bring the centre of Bintang Saddle Hill to the eastward of South, until Pedro Branco is visible from the deck; for with the hill bearing South, you will not pass far outside of the N. Easternmost patch of Romania Reef; but it is a safe bearing if the compass be true, and will lead down in soundings of 16 to 13 fathoms.

or in hazy weather.

In hazy weather, Bintang Hill is seldom visible until you have passed the eastern part of the reef; in such case, having Pulo Aor disappearing about North, a course S. by W. to S. S.W. may be requisite to counteract the S. Easterly currents, or the ebb tide setting out of the strait to N, Eastward. The depths will decrease regularly in steering southward, and the low land will probably be seen to the westward, when in 20 or 18 fathoms; coast it along at 3½ or 4 leagues distance, until False Barbucit low sloping hill is discerned, appearing a little way from the sea, like a clump of trees more elevated than the others. When this hill bears W. S.W., 15 fathoms is the fair track; with it bearing W. ¾ S. and W. ½ S., overfalls from 16 to 13 fathoms may be experienced, or probably less water, being then about the parallel of the N. Easternmost patch of Romania Reef, and the shoal patch with 8 to 10 fathoms, on the Eastern Bank.

To enter Singapore Strait by the North Channel.

Having coasted along at 3½ to 4 leagues distance, with the land distinctly in sight from the deck, and having brought False Barbucit Hill to bear about W. by S., you are approaching the N. Easternmost patch of the reef: and with this hill bearing about W. ¾ S., if a cast of 10, 9, or 8 fathoms is got, but uncertain whether these soundings are on the N. Eastern extremity of the reef, or on the shoal patch of the Eastern Bank, haul to the S. Eastward until in 14 or 15 fathoms. Steer then South about 2 miles. or until False Barbucit Hill bears West, which will place you to the southward of the shoal patch of the Eastern Bank, and abreast of the N. Eastern extremity of Romania Reef; you may then haul in to the W. S. Westward, and get a cast of 10 or 11 fathoms, and will then be certain that these soundings are on the edge of the reef; but in doing so, heave the lead quick, and if there is less than 10 fathoms, haul out directly eastward into 15 or 16 fathoms, and then steer along the S. Eastern edge of the reef in 16 or 17 fathoms. If when Pedro Branco is discerned, it bear S. S.W., you are clear to the eastward of the reef; but if it is seen bearing S. by W., you

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will be close to, or upon the edge of shoal water. Having steered round the reef, so far as to bring Pedro Branco to bear S. by W., do not come under 16 or 17 fathoms in passing along the southern part of the reef; for it is steep from 16 to 12, and from 12 to 3 fathoms at a cast, on some of the shoal rocky patches with Pedro Branco bearing from S. E.½ S. to South. Having passed betwixt Pedro Branco and the edge of Romania Reef, in any depth from 17 to 32 fathoms, as the tide and the prevailing wind render expedient, steer to the IV. S.Westward nearly in mid-strait, to give a birth to Johore Shoal. Although Pedro Branco is steep to, on the North side, it should not be approached very close, for navigators are liable to estimate their distance from it sometimes greater than the truth; and as the tides run strong, ships are in danger of being drifted quickly toward it without warning, if they borrow near it in light breezes.*

By the Great Inner Channel;

If a ship during thick weather, happen to get too near the coast to the westward of Romania Outer Reef, she may proceed through the Great Inner Channel, by keeping about 3 miles off shore, and when within this distance of the northernmost Romania Island, keep about 2 miles from the East side of this, and the other islands, in steering down to the southward, attending to the preceding remarks given for this channel.

and by the South Channel.

SOUTH CHANNEL, is very convenient for ships which fall to leeward of Pedro Branco during thick weather, as they have no occasion to anchor outside. If the wind be N. Easterly, they may run down until within 4 or 5 miles of the Bintang shore, then haul to the westward, and pass nearly in mid-channel between it and Pedro Branco, in 11 to 13 fathoms water. With the wind at N.W. or North, it is advisable to borrow toward the Rocky Ledges to the S. E. and S.Westward of Pedro Branco, and endeavour to pass rather nearer to it than to the Bintang shore, observing not to approach too close to the S.W. rocks, as they are covered at half tide. By borrowing toward the weather side of the channel, ships will be enabled to reach well into the entrance of the strait, and if the wind is scant and the tide setting out against them, they will have smooth water and good bottom for anchorage, until the tide of flood is favorable for proceeding to the westward.

Directions for ships which fall to leeward.

Geo. Site of Pulo Panjang easternmost island.

Some ships have been set to the southward of the entrance of the strait, by the current, and having mistaken the high land on the West end of Pulo Panjang, for Barbucit Hill, and one of the rocky islets, for Pedro Branco, they were obliged to proceed round Bintang, and entered the Strait of Singapore by Rhio Strait; others have passed to the westward, through the Straits of Durian. Ships which happen to fall to leeward of the entrance of Singapore Strait, ought not to go between Bintang and Panjang, that passage being interspersed with many islets and rocky shoals, rendering it unsafe for large ships, if boats are not kept a-head to sound. But in such case, it is advisable to pass outside of Panjang, then steer to the S.Westward betwixt the S. E. end of Bintang and the adjoining islands, with a boat sounding a head, as there are some reefs and sand banks, covered at high water. The S. Eastern most island off Pulo Panjang, is Ragged Island, in lat. 0° 56½′ N., lon. 104° 56½′ E., and Saddle Island bearing from the former S. 39° W., lies in lat. 0° 48′ N. Monkey Island, Island, fronting the South coast of Bintang, is of considerable extent; after passing between it and Low Island, which lies to the eastward, ships intending to touch at Rhio, should haul to the N.W. for that strait; otherwise, they may steer to the westward between the islands, to proceed through the straits of Durian, and enter into Malacca Strait at the Carimons. Persons unacquainted, ought in passing amongst these islands, not to neglect to keep a boat sounding a-head, to examine the channels.

Directions for sailing to the westward through Singapore Strait.

HAVING ENTERED THE STRAIT OF SINGAPORE, by either channel, steer to the westward in mid-strait, or at any discretional distance from the North shore, until

* The Shah Munchah, a large and valuable ship, from China bound to Bombay, standing into the strait at mid-day, with a strong flood tide and scant wind, stood too near Pedro Branco before tacking, and was totally lost, by the tide horsing her upon the rock whilst in stays.

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Johore Shoal, the first danger, is approached: keep then about mid-strait in passing it, and do not borrow nearer it than 18 or 17 fathoms, as the water shoals suddenly under 16 or 17 fathoms; the island St. John's kept W. by S., is a fair bearing, in steering to the westward. When the East end of Singapore Island, or the Red Cliffs, bear about N. by W., you are clear to the westward of the shoal; the northern shore is then safe to approach as far as St. John's, but the South side of the strait being rocky, ought to be avoided.

If the wind and tide be unfavorable, or the weather very dark in the night, you may anchor in 14 to 18 fathoms, toward the North shore, or under the N. E. side of St. John's, in Singapore Road; otherwise, pass the South point of that island as close as the wind may render proper, and steer W. S.W. and W. by S. to round the Rabbit and Coney. It is best to keep nearest the North side of the channel in this track, to avoid the Buffalo Rock, and the deep water and rocky bottom toward the South shore; but care must be taken to give a birth to the reef off the S. E. end of Middle Island. The South end of St. John's kept E. N. E. ½ N., leads clear of that reef, or the South end of Barn Island W. by S. ½ S.; and either of these are safe bearings, to carry you along in the North side of the channel until the Coney is approached, which may be rounded at the distance of 2 or 3 cable's lengths, if the wind is northerly.

From thence to

When round the CONEY and the South point of Barn Island, steer W. N.W. to pass betwixt Tree Island and the Sultan's Shoal, and from thence between Tanjong Boulus and the Little Carimon. The South end of Barn Island kept E. by S., will carry you about mid-channel; with it E. ½ S., you will near Tree Island; and if E. S. E., you will approach the Sultan's Shoal. After passing Tree Island, steer about W. N.W., hauling up a little either way, as the wind or tide may require, to pass rather nearer than mid-channel toward Tanjong Boulus, which ought to have a birth of 2 miles, on account of the shoal mud bank that encircles it, and is steep from 16 fathoms.

From abreast of Pulo Cocob entrance, steer about N.W. for Pulo Pisang, observing not to approach Pulo Cocob, or the mud bank that stretches along the coast between it and Pulo Pisang, under 11 or 12 fathoms; nor bring the outer part of the latter island to the westward of N.W. With a fair wind, keep in 17 to 19 fathoms about mid-channel, and do not borrow under 13 fathoms on either side, when working in the night.

Pulo Pisang,

When Pulo Pisang is approached, pass outside of it at 3 or 4 miles distance if the wind be favorable, then steer about N.W. by W., which is a fair channel course to clear Formosa Bank; or if Pulo Pisang is kept about E. S. E., it is a proper bearing throughout the channel. In working, you may stand into 10 or 12 fathoms on the edge of the Shore Bank, and off 2 or 2½ leagues to 18 or 20 fathoms; the soundings on the Fair Channel Bank, will be a guide in crossing over it on each tack.

to Formosa Bank; the Water Islands,

Cape Rachado,

From abreast of the bank off Formosa River, at 3 or 4 miles distance, steer N.W. by W. for the Water Islands; borrowing toward the Malay Coast occasionally to 12 or 13 fathoms, there being no danger in this part of the strait from side to side. After rounding the Outer Water Island, at any distance thought proper, if you do not intend to touch at Malacca, steer about N.W. and N.W. by W. for Cape Rachado, in soundings from 20 to 16 fathoms, keeping within 6 or 7 miles of the Malay Coast; but it must not be approached nearer than 3 miles, in passing the rocky shore between Tanjong Clin and Cape Rachado. This cape may be passed within l or 2 miles, and from thence, steer N.W. by W. for Parcelar Point, observing not to bring Cape Rachado to the southward of S. 60° E. in standing toward the shoals in the bight, nor to the eastward of E. by S. ½ S. in passing, the eastern patches of the South Sands, when the Cape appears like an island. The soundings are irregular, but generally from 25 to 27 fathoms about mid-channel, 17 and 18 fathoms near the shoals in the bight, and 35, to 40 or 44 fathoms near the dangerous patches of the South Sands. Cape Rachado kept about E. S. E., is a fair bearing in passing through the channel toward Parcelar Point, and when this point is approached, it may be passed at 3, 4, or.5 miles distance; but the

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coast forming the bight between it and Cape-Rachado, must not be approached nearer than 5 miles, on account of the Bambek Shoal.

And to Parcelar Point.

From Parcelar Point, steer about N.W. ½ W., keeping 3 or 4 miles off shore, to avoid shoal bank that lines the coast abreast of Parcelar Hill, and do not borrow on the edge of it under 17 or 18 fathoms, for it is very steep under these depths. In working, you may stand about 3 leagues from the land, into 24 or 25 fathoms, and will probably shoal to 13 or 14 fathoms in crossing the narrow bank in the fair channel.

To sail from the land of Parcelar through the East and West Channel,

From thence to the Sambilangs,

HAVING brought PARCELAR HILL to bear about E. by N. N., you may with a southerly wind and ebb tide, edge away for the East and West channel, betwixt the North and South Sands, gradually drawing Parcelar Hill to bear about E. ½ N., by the time the low land of Callam is nearly disappearing from the deck. If the hill is clouded, keep the body of Pulo Callam, or that part of land to the westward of the strait, bearing about E. N. E. ½ N., which will carry you well clear of the Two and Half Fathoms Bank; and when the low land disappears from the deck, you have passed it, and may steer along the edge of the North Sand about W. by N., altering the course as the wind or tides require, to keep from 14, to 16 or 17 fathoms. When clear to the westward of the Two and Half Fathoms Bank, Parcelar Hill may be brought to the southward of East, in steering along the edge of the North Sands; and those who are a little acquainted, may pass through this part of the channel in the night, if the weather is clear and the set of the tide known, by taking the soundings from the edge of the North Sands, and hauling off occasionally when the depths decrease under 12 or 13 fathoms. With a southerly wind, keep about mid-channel, but care must be taken in the night not to approach the rocks off the Round Arroa; for if the Arroa is discerned with the glass or otherwise, haul immediately to the northward, to give a birth to these rocks, and you will deepen to 35 or 44 fathoms to the N. Eastward of the Long Arroa. From this situation, or from the western extremity of the North Sands, steer about North to make the Sambilangs, and do not approach these islands under 25 or 26 fathoms, when passing between them and Pulo Jarra in a dark night, on account of the rocks that lie to the westward of them; about 28 to 30 fathoms are good depths to preserve, in passing through this channel during the night.

to prince of Wales' Island,

FROM the SAMBILANGS, steer to the N. N.Westward for Prince of Wales' Island, giving a birth of 4 or 5 miles to Pulo Dinding in passing, to avoid the mud bank in the offing; Island, and afterward, keep along the coast of Perah in soundings of 16 to 20 fathoms, about 3½ to 4 leagues off. In working, do not stand out farther than 25 fathoms, and tack from the edge of the shore bank in 10 or 11 fathoms; for the water shoals suddenly under these depths, rendering it necessary to keep the lead going quickly, when near the edge of the bank. In the N. E. monsoon, ships bound to Prince of Wales' Island, Bengal, or Madras, ought to be particularly careful, to keep near the Malay side of the strait after passing Pulo Dinding; for strong N. E. winds, with a short sea, sometimes prevail in mid-strait, betwixt Diamond Point and Prince of Wales' Island, making it difficult for ships which are in the offing, to regain the Eastern Shore. Large ships bound into Prince of Wales' Island, ought not to attempt to pass through the South Channel, unless a good pilot is procured; but they should coast round the island, and proceed into the harbour by the North channel.

and out of Malacca Strait.

DEPARTING from, or having passed PRINCE OF WALES' ISLAND, whether bound to Bengal, or to the coast of Coromandel, steer to pass outside of the Ladda Islands, Pulo Bouton, and Junkseylon Head, at a moderate distance: if bound to Ceylon, the Malabar coast, or other parts to the westward or southward, steer for the channel between Pulo Rondo and the South Nicobar, conforming to the directions already given for sailing to or from Malacca Strait, in both monsoons; which will be found in this Second Volume, under

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the title, "Navigation of Malacca Strait," section 1st, and under the title "West Coast of Sumatra," section 1st; also, in the last sections of Volume First, farther directions will be found, for sailing into, and out of the strait, and between it and the different coasts of India, during either monsoon.

CHINA SEA.

MONSOONS, WINDS, TY-FOONGS, AND CURRENTS.

S.W. monsoon in the China Sea.

S.W. MONSOON, generally commences in the China Sea, about the middle, or end of April, and continues to the beginning, or middle of October, liable to an acceleration or retardation of 12 or 15 days in one season from another; it sets in, rather sooner about the gulfs of Siam and Tonking, and along the western coasts, than over to the eastward in the open sea, near the coast of China, or near the coasts of Palawan and Luconia. It also continues longer, to the southward of Cape Padaran and Pulo Sapata, and along the coast of Palawan, in the southern part of the China Sea, than it does more to the northward; for southerly winds frequently prevail between Singapore Strait and Pulo Sapata, until the 8th, 10th, or 15th of October, when N. E. and easterly winds are blowing in the northern part of that sea. In September and great part of October, the winds off the North extremity of Borneo, and the West end of Palawan, generally blow strong from S.Westward, with dark cloudy weather and much rain.

In May, the winds are often light and variable in the open sea, and easterly or S. E. winds are liable to happen for a day or two at a time, during the whole of the S.W. monsoon; particularly in the northern part of the China Sea, these winds are frequently experienced in both monsoons. About Formosa, and betwixt it and the China Coast, N. Easterly winds often happen in July, August, and September.

The S.W. monsoon is strongest, and least liable to changes, in June, July, and August; in these months, and also in May, sudden hard squalls blow sometimes out of the Gulf of Siam, as far as Pulo Condore, and Pulo Sapata. When dense clouds are perceived to rise, indicating the approach of these squalls, sail ought to be reduced without delay.

From the Gulf of Siam to Cape Padaran, the S.W. monsoon blows along the coast nearly parallel to it; and if close in, a faint breeze from the land is at times experienced in the night, which is succeeded by a short interval of calm on the following morning, occasioned by the influence of the sun. The monsoon breeze then sets in, and generally continues brisk during the day. These land and sea breezes, prevail most on the coast of Cochin-china, from Cape Padaran northward to the Tonking Gulf; for the sea wind dies away almost every evening on this coast, during the S.W. monsoon, and a land breeze comes off in the night, although not at a regular hour. This is followed by calms or faint airs, which frequently continue until noon; then the sea breeze sets in from S. Eastward.

In March and April, there are land and sea breezes on the coast of Luconia, with tine weather; but after the S. W. monsoon sets in strong in June, and from that time until it abates in October, the weather is mostly cloudy; and the winds blowing from the sea upon that coast, generally produce much rain. In June, July, and part of August, there are at times, much rain, and cloudy weather, all over the China Sea. On the South coast of China, the winds during the S.W. monsoon, prevail frequently at South, and S. S. Eastward.

N.E. monsoon.

N. E. MONSOON, frequently commences in the northern part of the China Sea, about the end of September, or early in October; but in the southern part of this sea, it seldom

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sets in steady until November; for here, light southerly, or variable breezes, prevail through great part of October. The weather in some years, is settled and fine, during the months of September and October; for the N. E. monsoon, does not always set in with a storm; but the equinox is a very precarious period, for within a few days of it, storms are liable to happen,* and also with the setting in of the monsoon, in October.

In November, the N. E. monsoon generally prevails; but it blows more steady, and with greatest strength, in December and January. The weather is frequently cloudy,' with much rain, and a turbulent sea in these months; particularly about Pulo Sapata, and from thence to the entrance of Singapore Strait: there are also considerable intervals of fine weather. On the coast of Palawan, the winds are very variable in October, November, and the early part of December; by which, ships may pass along that coast either to the N. E. or S.Westward, at these times, but the weather is often very dark and cloudy. The winds on the coast of Luconia, are frequently variable during the N. E. monsoon, generally from the North and N. Eastward; but they veer to N.W. and westward at times, and then blow strong, with cloudy weather and rain., In the Gulf of Tonking, there are sometimes faint land breezes close to the coast in November; but the N. E. monsoon prevails along the coast of Cochin-china, as far to the southward as Cape Padaran, generally from September or the early part of October, to the beginning or middle of April.

In February, the strength of the N. E. monsoon abates; during this month and March, it blows moderately, with steady weather all over the China Sea; and inclines to land and sea breezes on the coast of Luconia. On the South coast of China, when the N. E. monsoon prevails, the winds blow mostly from E. N. E., parallel to the shore; they veer, and blow off the land at times, and also from the S. Eastward, but there are seldom any regular land or sea breezes on that coast.

Ty-foongs.

TY-FOONG'S, † are dangerous tempests, liable to happen in the northern part of the China Sea, along the southern and eastern coasts of China, near Formosa, the Bashee Islands, the North end of Luconia; also to the eastward of those islands, and betwixt Formosa and the Japan Archipelago. These tempests usually blow with greatest fury near land: as the distance is increased to the southward from the coast of China, their violence generally abates, and they seldom reach beyond lat. 14° N., although a severe gale has been experienced at times, two or three degrees farther to the southward.

Ty-foongs are liable to happen in both monsoons; but in May, November, or December, they are usually less severe in the China Sea, if they happen in these months; although in the vicinity of Formosa and the Bashee Islands, there are furious gusts sometimes in November. From December to May, Ty-foongs seldom or never happen; of late years, those which have been experienced in June and July, were the most violent; many ships have been dismasted, and sustained other damage by them. The months of August, September, and October, are also subject to these tempests; about the equinox in September, is a very precarious period, particularly if the change, or perigee of the moon, coincide with the equinox: when this was the case, Ty-foongs happened several years at the equinox in September, on the coast of China, and many ships have been dismasted on the 21st or 22d of that month.

To be able to prognosticate the approach of these tempests, would be very useful to navi-

* September 22d, 1786, near the Grand Ladrone, the Gunjavar encountered a storm which continued several days, disabled, and obliged her to take shelter in Galong Bay, at the South end of Hainan, where she remained six months. The Warley, September 22d, 1803, off St. John's had a tempest, that drove her to the Taya Islands, blew away her top-masts, and did other damage. The Bombay, late in September, 1789, had a tempest close to St. John's, which obliged her to cut away her main-mast, and ruts on shore.

Several of H. M. ships, and those belonging to the Company, have been dismasted by these equinoctial Ty-foongs, which generally happen within eight or ten days of the equinox; and in these tempests, the Talbot, Ocean, True Briton, Anna, and other ships, have foundered with all their crews.

† Signifies Great Winds: in the Chinese language, Ty, is great or mighty, and Foong, signifies wind.

VOL. II. G G

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gators, but this cannot be done with certainty, for they frequently commence without giving much indication of their proximity. The clouds having a red aspect, is not a certain warning of the approach of a Ty-foong; for at the rising, but more particularly at the setting of the sun, the clouds in settled weather, are sometimes tinged with a deep red colour by the reflected light, especially those opposite to the luminary. A hazy atmosphere, preventing land from being seen at great distances, is no unfavorable sign on the coast of China; for this is generally its state, in medium or settled weather. Neither is an irregular swell, a good criterion to judge of the approach of a Ty-foong; for near the coast of China, a cross swell frequently prevails during steady settled weather. A serene sky, with the horizon remarkably clear, should not be considered an indication of a continuance of favorable weather; for a series of fine weather and calms, favoring an increase of heat above the mean temperature, is liable to be succeeded by a Ty-foong. When the horizon is very clear in some parts, and the summits of the hills or islands obscured in dense black clouds, there is some irregularity in the atmosphere, and stormy weather may be apprehended; but in reality, Ty-foongs are seldom preceded by any certain sign or indication. Marine Barometers, if well constructed, seem to afford the best means to anticipate these tempests; for the mercury is sometimes liable to a greater fall on the South coast of China, than might be expected within the tropics.*

Many ships have been driven from the Grand Ladrone to the Mandarin's Cap, and even to the Taya Islands near Hainan, during Ty-foongs; for among the islands, and near the coast, these tempests generally commence between N.W. and North, then veer suddenly to N. E. and eastward, frequently blowing with inconceivable fury, and rising the sea in turbulent pyramids, which impinge violently against each other; and the current then runs strong to the westward. From eastward, the wind veers to S. E. and southward, and then becomes moderate. This rotatory motion of the wind during Ty-foongs, is generally experienced contiguous to, and within a moderate distance of the coast of China; but about 2° or 3° from the coast, a contrary motion often takes place. Here, as before, Ty-foongs generally commence at northward but instead of veering to N. E. and eastward, as in the former case, the wind veers to N.W. and westward, blowing then very severe, and afterward changes to S.W. and southward, where it gradually abates in violence.

In some years, no Ty-foong happens on the South coast of China; at other times, two or three of these tempests have been experienced in one year; but fortunately, their fury is seldom of long continuance.

Gales of wind.

GALES OF WIND, sometimes blow steady from E. N. E. or N. Eastward, several days at a time, in September or October, near the coast of China. In the same months, gales are liable to happen on the West coast of Luconia. Here, they mostly commence at North or N.W., and veer to West, S.W. or Southward, blowing strong from all these directions, with heavy falls of rain, and a cross turbulent sea; but they seldom continue long.

* Proceeding across the Gulf of Tonking by the Inner Passage to China, July 21st, 1804, in lat. 18° N., the mercury fell in a marine barometer, made by Troughton, from 29, 65, to 29, 05, previously to, and during a hard gale at N.Westward, out of the gulf, which is a great fall for that latitude.

In lat. 19° N., lon. 115° E., September 28th, 1809, the Neptune's barometer fell from 29, 85, to 28, 30 prior to, and during a Ty-foong, in which the True Briton, of 1200 tons burthen, perished with all her crew.

In lat. 17° N., lon. 115½° E., September 28th, 1810, the Elphinston's barometer fell from 29, 85, to 29, 3, before, and during a Ty-foong, which laid her on her beam-ends, and they were obliged to cut away the mizenmast, and main-mast, to save her. In lat. 16½° N., lon. 116° E., September 9th, 1812, the Elphinston's barometer fell considerably, by which Capt. Craig prepared for a Ty-foong, which soon followed, and dismasted H. M. ship Theban, and the Cirencester, but the Elphinstone sustained no injury.

The celebrated circumnavigator, now Admiral Krusenstern, informed me, that during the progress of a Ty-foong near the Japan Islands, the mercury in his marine barometer fell below 27 inches, that being the foot of the graduated scale.

Capt. Howard, in returning from America by the Bashee Channel into the China Sea, experienced a Ty-foong, October 18th and 19th, 1821, in lat. 16½° N., when the mercury fell to 27¼ inches.

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Strong N. E. gales have been sometimes experienced on the coast of China, during the S.W. monsoon; in one of these, the Ceres after making the Grand Ladrone July 16th, 1802, was driven westward to the Mandarin's Cap by the 20th, with strong gales, hard squalls, and the current setting from 1 to 2 miles per hour to the westward. The N. Easterly wind continued nine days, which obliged her to stand out to sea, and she did not arrive until the 26th, at Macao.

In May, June, July, and August, severe gales of wind are at times experienced in the N.Western part of the China Sea, particularly betwixt lat. 14° N. and the island Hainan, with the Gulf of Tonking open. These gales generally begin at N. N.W. or N.W. and blow with violence out of the gulf, accompanied by dark weather, and a deluge of rain: from N.W. they veer to West and S.W. still blowing strong; and abate as they veer more southerly. When these N.W. gales are blowing in the vicinity of the island Hainan and the coast of Cochin-China, strong S.W. or southerly gales, generally prevail at the same time, out in the middle of the China Sea.

Currents in the China Sea during the S. W. monsoon;

CURRENTS, in the China Sea, are very mutable, their direction and velocity depending much upon local circumstances. Late in April, or early in May, they generally begin to set to the northward, in the South and middle parts of the China Sea, and continue to set N. Easterly until September, while the S.W. monsoon is strong; but they are not constant in this monsoon, for at times, when the wind is moderate or light, the currents are liable to change and set in various directions. After the strength of the monsoon has abated, there is often little or no current in the open sea, setting to the N. Eastward; and sometimes, it sets to the southward.

Along the coast of Cambodia, from Pulo Oby to Cape Padaran, the current sets mostly to the E. N. Eastward, parallel to the shores, from April to the middle of October; and during the same period, it sets generally to the northward along the East coast of Malay, from the entrance of Singapore Strait to the Gulf of Siam. To the northward of Cape Padaran, there is very little current in the S.W. monsoon, near the coast of Cochin-China; for, from thence to the Gulf of Tonking, a small drain is sometimes found setting to the northward, at other times to the southward. When a gale happens to blow out of the Gulf of Tonking from N.W. and Westward, the current at the same time sets generally to the S.W. or Southward, in the vicinity of the Paracels, or where these gales are experienced; and this current running oblique, or contrary to the wind, a very turbulent and high sea is thereby produced.

On the South coast of China, the current is much governed by the wind: when strong S.W. winds prevail, it runs along shore to the eastward, seldom strong. Near, and amongst the islands, westward of Macao, there is generally a westerly current, occasioned by the freshes from Canton River, which set in that direction; frequently sweeping along the islands from Macao to St. John's between W. S.W. and W. N.W., about 1 to 2 miles per hour. This westerly current is, however, not always constant in the S.W. monsoon, for it slacks at times; then a weak tide, may sometimes be experienced to set to the eastward.

On the coasts of Luconia, and Palawan, the current generally sets northward in the S.W. monsoon, but frequently there is none, and near these coasts, it seldom runs very strong. Near the Bashee Islands, it sometimes sets to the eastward, when strong westerly winds prevail; but generally strong to the northward, or between N. N.W. and N. E.

and in the N. E. monsoon.

DURING the N. E. MONSOON, the current in the China Sea, generally runs to the S.Westward before the wind, with a velocity proportionate to its strength; for when strong gales blow in the early part of this monsoon, an augmentation of the S.Westerly current is produced. When the force of the monsoon is abated, or during moderate and light breezes, there is often little or no current.

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In the western parts of the China Sea, along the coasts of Cochin-China, and Malay, the current in general, begins to run to the southward about the middle of October, sometimes sooner on the former coast, and continues until April. During the month of March, the current runs constantly to the southward about Pulo Aor, with light easterly breezes, and calms at times. On the coast of Cochin-China, and adjacent to the Island Hainan, southerly or S.W. currents commence sometimes about the middle of September; and from lat. 15° N. they increase in strength near the land, to lat. 11° N. or 11½° N., then decrease farther to the southward: During the prevalence of the N. E. monsoon, from about lat. 14° N. to Cape Padaran, the current frequently runs at the rate of 40 or 50, and sometimes 60 miles to the southward in 24 hours, along the coast. This southerly current is not always so strong, and it is confined to the limits mentioned; for it abates at Cape Padaran, and runs with less velocity to the S.W., toward the entrance of the Gulf of Siam.

On the South coast of China, the current during the N. E. monsoon, runs almost constantly to the W. S.Westward, parallel to the land; and sometimes with inconceivable rapidity, when a Ty-foong, or a storm happens. At the distance of 20 or 30 leagues from the coast, the current seldom runs so strong as near it; and out in 30 or 40 fathoms water, there is much less current than in shoal water, near the shore, and amongst the islands. The westerly current sometimes slacks, and contiguous to the land, is succeeded by a kind of tides.

Betwixt the Island Formosa and the China Coast, the current runs to the southward during the N. E. monsoon, and generally to the S.W. or Southward, between the South end of Formosa and the North end of Luconia, when strong N. E. winds prevail; but here, in light variable winds, it often sets to the northward. On the West coast of Luconia, it is changeable, sometimes setting southward along the coast, at other times to the northward. On the coast of Palawan, the current is also mutable, governed by the prevailing winds, but seldom runs strong in any direction, unless propelled by strong gales. To the eastward of Formosa, about Botel Tobago Xima, the current frequently runs strong to the northward and N. Eastward, so early as the 1st of March: and although changeable at times, it sets mostly in that direction during the S.W. monsoon; and in the opposite direction, during the N.E. monsoon.

INSTRUCTIONS for SAILING THROUGH the, CHINA SEA, to, or from CANTON RIVER, at all SEASONS.

Inner Passage to China proper, early in the S.W. monsoon;

Afterward, the outer Passage preferable;

SHIPS BOUND to CHINA, which depart from Singapore Strait, or Banca Strait, in February, and part of April, may expect a tedious, beating passage: in March, April, or May, they may proceed by the INNER PASSAGE, along he coast of Cochin-China, which is generally the most expeditious route in these months; but when June approaches, and the S.W. monsoon is set regularly in, the track by the Macclesfield Bank seems Afterward, preferable, the winds being more steady in the open sea than near the coast.* Even so early as April, a ship may sometimes get a westerly breeze blowing out of the Gulf of Siam, about preferable; the full and change of the moon, to carry her to the Macclesfield Bank; and afterward, easterly winds, to run her to the Grand Ladrone: but had she proceeded by the Inner Passage,

* In June, 1803, and in July, 1804, we proceeded by the Inner Passage in the Anna, and two ships went the Outer Passage by the Macclesfield Bank, at each of these times, having left Singapore Strait nearly when we did. On comparing the journals of those ships with ours, it appeared, that on the same days, when nearly in the same parallels of latitude, they experienced a steady S.W. monsoon, while we on the coast of Cochin-China, had laud breezes in the night, S. Easterly and variable sea breezes in the day, with intervening calms.

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easterly winds would have retarded her progress round the S. E. coast of Hainan, and from thence to the entrance of Canton River. Some ships proceeding by the Outer Passage, have carried strong S.W. and Southerly winds, when others inside of the shoals, have experienced at the same time, N.W. and Westerly storms blowing out of the Gulf of Tonking, with dark weather and much rain, and were in danger of being driven among the shoals. This happened to the Portuguese ship, St. Antonia, of Macao; she left Pulo Canton on the same day we did in the Anna, July 20th, 1804; and on the following day, a gale commenced at N.W. out of the gulf, which increased to a violent storm at westward, and not being able to carry sail, she was driven to leeward, and wrecked* upon one of the shoals in lat. 16° 45′ N. By carrying a press of sail during the first part of the gale, we weathered about 12 or 14 leagues, the N.Western limit of the shoals in lat. 17° N.; having experienced in two days, during the gale, a currrent to the S. S. W. of 50 miles. This strong southerly current, was also experienced in the St. Antonio, for when she struck, they were by reckoning, well to the northward of all the dangers.

A crazy ship should proceed along the coast during the whole season.

Although the passage to Canton by the Macclesfield Bank, seems preferable to that by the coast of Cochin-China, during the strength of the S.W. monsoon; nevertheless, if a ship be weak and crazy, or making much water, the Inner Passage ought to be chosen, for the gales which blow out of the Gulf of Tonking, are not frequent; and by adopting this passage, she may keep sight of the land, except for a few hours at a time. Departing from Singapore Strait, or from Pulo Aor, she ought to steer along the coast to the Redang Islands, from thence across the mouth of Siam Gulf, Pulo Oby, and along the coasts of Cambodia, and Cochin-China, keeping the latter aboard to Cape Turon. From hence, it is not above half a day's run to the S.W. part of Hainan, and she should coast along this island to its N. E. extremity (Hainan-Head), passing between it and the Taya Islands, then cross over for the coast of China about Tien-Pak, or more easterly about Hai-Lin-Shan. The islands may be coasted along at discretion, from hence to Macao, or shelter may be taken amongst them, on emergency. By following this route, a crazy or leaky ship, will have smooth water; and being near land, may reach a haven, or be run on shore, if it is found impossible to keep her afloat, by which the crew will be saved. And if the boats are kept in readiness, the crew may proceed to the nearest port, or coast along to any convenient place, as circumstances require. If a ship leave Singapore Strait before the middle of March, or the 1st of April, the passage will be tedious, unless she sail very well, and hold a good wind.

To sail through the China sea toward Canton late in the season,

by the outer passage,

OUTER PASSAGE to Canton, through the middle of the China sea, becomes precarious if a ship is not up with Pulo Sapata early in October; for about this island, strong southerly currents begin to prevail about the middle of October, with light northerly winds, variable airs and calms; by which many ships have been delayed for several days, and made no progress to the northward. From this cause, some of them have stretched over to the eastward, where they got entangled among the numerous shoals, and were in great danger: and others, to prevent farther delay, have proceeded to China by the eastern passage. These southerly currents about Pulo Sapata, are liable to slack for a few days at a time, and this may enable a ship, with the assistance of favorable breezes (which sometimes happen), to reach lat. 13° or 14° N., where the southerly currents are not so strong as off Cape Padaran, about Pulo Sapata, and the Catwicks. Having reached lat. 13° or 14° N., a ship may steer eastward if the wind admit, being then to the northward of the shoals, in order to secure her passage, by getting near the coast of Luconia. If the wind hang to N. E. and E. N. E. after passing lat. 12 or 13° N., rendering it difficult to get to the eastward, long stretches to the northward ought to be made; and if the wind permit, a short tack may be made at times, to keep up

* The commander, and part of the crew of this ship, reached the Island Hainan upon a raft, and from thence, were conveyed by the Chinese to Canton, where I saw him, and got a narrative concerning the loss of his ship.

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the easting; for it would be imprudent to fall in with the coast of China, to the westward of the Gran Ladrone.

Several ships which did not reach Pulo Sapata until the middle of October, and even so late as the 1st of November, have experienced brisk southerly winds, which carried them near the coast of Luconia, from whence they got quickly to Macao; but these instances are rare, for southerly currents and light breezes, generally prevail about Pulo Sapata, during the greater part of October, and early in November.

The Royal Charlotte, Triton, and Warley, left Singapore Strait, October 25th, 1793, had no southerly current till they reached Pulo Sapata, November 4th; afterward, they had N.W., but mostly N. Easterly breezes, and some days, a current of 10 miles to the southward. On the 23d, they saw the coast of Luconia in lat. 16° N., and December lat, in lat. 19° 20′ N., had a gale between North and N. E., which drove them back to lat. 18° 30′ N., and they did not arrive at Macao until the 7th.

The Jehangire, after passing Pulo Sapata in October, 1806, had E. N. Easterly winds anal westerly currents, and on the 26th she got on a coral bank with overfalls of 11, 9½, to 30 fathoms, in lat. 16° 20′ N., lon. 112° 35′ E. by chronometer, which must have been the eastern limit of the Lincoln's Shoals, but no danger was visible from the mast-head. It was calm at the time, and the current setting to S. Eastward, soon carried her off the bank; and although this ship was so far to the westward, at this late period, she nevertheless, reached Macao by the direct route.

The ships General Harris, and General Kyd, left Singapore Strait, October 3d, 1821, passed to the eastward of Pulo Sapata, then to the westward of the Paracels, without seeing any of these dangers, or any part of the coast of Cochin-China. They saw the Island of Hainan on the 13th, in lat. 18° 40′ N., lon. 110° 58′ E., and the Taya Islands next day, where they had N. E. and E. N. E. winds, with which they kept working near these islands, and Hainan Head, till the 16th, then stood off to the S. Eastward three days, and in lat. 18° N., lon. 113° E., had a violent gale, or Ty-foong, from North and N. E. on the 19th. Anchored under St. John's on the 22d, to repair the damage in the gale, the General Harris having lost her main-yard; sailed from thence on the 27th, and arrived at Macao on the 30th of October.

This certainly was a singular passage, up the western side of the China Sea in October, and although effected by these ships, it ought never to be adopted. The ship Broxbournbury, left Singapore in January 1826, beat up through the China Sea, along the Palawan Coast, and arrived in February at Macao, after a five weeks passage from the former place.

In the Anna, we sailed from Bombay, August 26th, 1802, bound for China; the Lowjee worked out of the harbour with us, and the Ardassier, sailed three days after, likewise bound to China. September 14th, we passed Pedro Branco, entered the China sea, and had light southerly winds till in lat. 12° N.; then, with variable winds mostly at E. N. E. and N. E. we proceeded to the northward by the common route, making a tack to the eastward at times to prevent falling to leeward, but were never to the eastward of lon. 115° E.: made the Lema Islands, September 30th, and moored at Whampoa, October 4th. Having delivered our cargo of cotton, and received a full cargo for Bombay, we left Canton River, December 2d, and on this day passed the Ardassier bound inward, which ship had been embarrassed among the shoals to the eastward of Pulo Sapata, and afterward came through the Palawan Passage, and along the coast of Luconia. The Lowjee, went through Malacca Strait, and from thence through the Sooloo sea, into the Pacific ocean, by the eastern passage to China, and she did not arrive in Canton River till about the middle of December, or fourteen days after we left it in the Anna, where we had remained two months, although both ships left Bombay harbour together.

The two ships Success, and Good Success, left Malacca, October 1st, 1814, the former proceeded by the Palawan Passage, the latter beat up through the middle of the China sea

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with N. E. and E. N. E. winds, was never to the eastward of lon. 115° E., and both ships arrived in Macao Road at the same time, November 1st.

and by the Palawan Passage.

PALAWAN PASSAGE, may be adopted when a ship is late in the season, in order to by the avoid the southerly currents and light winds, often experienced about Pulo Sapata, and in the middle of the China sea, rendering the passage precarious. It is therefore, advisable, for a ship leaving Pulo Aor, about or after the middle of October, to steer for the South Anambas, passing to the southward of them, Low Island, and the Great Natuna; and from thence N. Eastward, through the channel betwixt the Louisa Shoal, and Royal Charlotte Shoal. When past these, an E. N. Easterly course should be steered, to give a birth to the Viper's Shoals, and a sight of the Island Balambangan may be got at the distance of 8 or 9 leagues, if the wind be southerly; but with a steady westerly wind, pass that island at the distance of 14 or 16 leagues, and make the Island Balabac, which may be passed at any convenient distance, about 9 or 10 leagues with a fair wind. If Easterly winds prevail, borrow nearer to those two islands, for these winds usually force a strong current through the straits to the westward. Steer then N. N. Easterly for the channel formed by the Half Moon, Royal Captain, and Bombay Shoals in the offing, and the shoals near Palawan on the inside, which is 9 or 10 leagues wide; and if the deep sea lead be kept going in the night, it will in some places, point out the proximity of the inner shoals, as the bank of soundings generally projects out from the coast of Palawan a little way beyond these shoals: but from lat. 9° N. to 9° 56′ N there are 50 fathoms water close to several of the dangers. The best track to pass through this channel, is, to keep about 9 or 10 leagues off the S.W. end of Palawan, and the same distance preserved from the land, in proceeding along that coast, will carry you in the fair track, clear outside of the inner shoals, and inside of those in the offing.

Great caution is necessary when passing the S.West end of Palawan in thick weather, for it is fronted by numerous dangerous shoals and straggling rocks, stretching out to the West and N.Westward 4 or 5 leagues from the nearest land. October 12th, 1822, at dawn of day, the Regent struck on one of these shoals, in lat. 8° 28′ N., Balabac Island bearing S. by W., and Boolanhow Mountain N. E., where she lost her rudder, and afterward occasioned the loss of the ship. October 29th, 1815, the Herefordshire got suddenly into 4¾ fathoms rocks in the night, and after grazing over them, anchored in 5 fathoms; at day-light the centre of Balabac bore S. ½ E., the S.W. end of Palawan S. E.½ S., Boolanhow Mountain E. ½ N., distant 10 or 12 miles from the nearest shore. The Countess of Loudon, Captain Hammond, from Bengal bound to China, was lost early in November, 1816, upon a shoal, which he considered to be in lat 10° 2′ N., but Capt. Collingwood of the Susan, who was in company, and saved the crew of the former ship, thought it was the York Breakers, that she struck upon in the night, and soon filled with water.

If the wind incline easterly, after being to the northward of the shoals, pass in sight of the N. E. end of Palawan, and the Islands Calamianes, then cross over to make Luban, or Goat Island; and keep the coast of Luconia aboard, if easterly winds prevail, taking care to, give a birth to the Sisters and Adders Island, which are not so close to the land as sometimes represented. With the wind at S.W. or Westward, the coast should not be approached very close, particularly in passing Cape Bolina, or in crossing the bay to the northward of it; for the current sets from the northward at times into the bay, and the Cape is encircled by rocky ground, and shoal water.

Ships which stretch off from Cape Bolina, will generally be able to pass to the eastward of the Pratas Shoal, unless a strong N. E. gale prevail, with a leeward current, which frequently happens; it is therefore, advisable, particularly in a ship that sails indifferently, to endeavour to keep in the vicinity of the coast of Luconia until abreast of Cape Bajadore, to make sure of falling in with the coast of China to the eastward of the Lema Islands.

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THE PASSAGE to China by the coasts of Palawan and Luconia, may generally be accomplished without much difficulty, in October and November; and even in December, a ship in good condition, which sails well, may with perseverance, make a passage by this route, also in January, or at any period of the N. E. monsoon, as may be seen by the following examples.

Abstracts of Passage toward China late in the season.

The American brig Pennsylvania, passed Achen Head early in November, 1803, went through Malacca Strait, and after getting near Pulo Sapata, with N. E. winds, stood to the eastward, and got embarrassed among the shoals; notwithstanding, this vessel made her passage through the middle of the China sea in the strength of the N. E. monsoon, arriving at Macao in January, 1804.

The Lord Castlereagh, left Bombay, September 14th, 1804, remained three days at Malacca, proceeded by the Palawan Passage, and along the coast of Luconia, and arrived at Macao, November 3d, having been at sea 46 days, on her passage from Bombay to China. Had the Pennsylvania followed the same route, she probably would have reached China in December; and the dangerous track, through which she navigated, would have been avoided.

The Lord Walsingham, passed the Natunas, October 17th, 1787, carried steady S.W. winds along the coasts of Palawan and Luconia, and made the coast of China, on the 10th of the same month, in lat. 22° 44′ N.

The Eugenia, passed the Natunas, October 12th, 1805, proceeded by the Palawan Passage, and on the 24th made the coast of China, at Pedro Branco. The York and Royal Bishop, got sight of Balabac, November 1st, 1786, went by the Palawan Passage, and on the 30th arrived at Macao: the Walpole left Pulo Pisang on the West coast of Sumatra, October 12th, 1783, and arrived at Macao, December 10th, by the Palawan Passage. These ships were not coppered.

The Hammaun Shah, Captain P. D. Schmidt, from Bengal, left Singapore Strait, November 2d, 1811, passed in sight of the North Natuna on the 9th, and between the Louisa and Royal Charlotte Shoals, with S.W. winds, which continued till she passed Balabac Island on the 19th, at 8 or 9 leagues distance. On the 21st she saw the Royal Captain's Shoal, and the Bombay's Shoal on the following day, and from hence she had moderate breezes often at N. Eastward, and a current of 18 miles some days in her favor, in passing along the coast of Luconia at from 8 to 14 leagues distance. She stood off too soon from this coast, being 20 leagues distant from it when in lat. 16° 48′ N., December 2d; and in attempting to cross over for the coast of China, a strong N. E. gale with a heavy sea, broke all her weather shrouds, which obliged them to wear on the 5th, and take shelter under Luconia to repair the damage sustained. Afterward, she took a departure from Cape Bolina on the 7th, passed to the westward of the Pratas Shoal with strong N. E. winds, saw the Lema Islands, December 11th, and anchored in Macao Road on that day.

The Herefordshire, and General Kyd, in company, left Singapore Strait, October 14th, 1815, had mostly light breezes from S.W. and Westward till the 29th, when they made the Island Balabac, and the S.W. end of Palawan; from hence, they had strong S.W. and W. S.W. winds, cloudy weather, and rain, in running through the outer channel between the outer and inner shoals, which veered to South and S. S. E., with the same weather, as they approached the coast of Luconia. They kept within 9 or 10 leagues of this coast, till November 3d, then nearly abreast of Cape Bajadore, where the wind became variable, and shifted to N. E.; afterward to South and S. E. as they steered over for the coast of China, which they approached far to the eastward, and were two days with Northerly and N. E. winds, running W. N.W. and West till they made the Lema Islands, and anchored in Canton River, November 6th.

The Dutchess of Athol, Capt. Daniel, left Hoogly River, September 18th, 1822, arrived at Penang on the 30th, sailed from thence October 8th, arrived at Singapore on the 16th,

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sailed again on the 19th, passed to the northward of the Natunas on the 23d, saw Balabac on the 27th, and Palawan on each of the succeeding days, Table Mountain and Ragged Islands on the 30th, Goat Island near Luconia on the 2d of November, and arrived in Canton River on the 6th of that month.

The Bridgewater, Capt. Timins, left Singapore Strait, November 6th, 1819, passed to the South of the Anambas, Low Island, and the Great Natuna; passed the S.W. end of Palawan on the 15th with strong S.W. winds, which carried her to lat. 10½° N. on the following day; here she had Easterly winds, and afterward variable, from that direction, with which she passed Cape Bolina on the 27th, and arrived off the entrance of Canton River on the 1st of December.

The Daphne, Capt. Chatfield, left Singapore, December 14th, 1822, passed to the southward of the Great Natuna on the 18th, saw the Royal Charlotte's Shoal on the 24th, and the Pennsylvania Shoal on the 3d of January, 1823; having experienced much unsettled squally weather, with a turbulent sea, off Balabac, and in the Palawan Passage, she did not arrive at Manilla (the port to which she was bound), till the 16th of January.

The ship Janet Hutton, Capt. Howard, from Bengal, left Singapore Strait, November 8th, 1822, passed to the southward of the Anambas, Low Island, and the Great Natuna, saw the S.W. end of Palawan on the 17th: here, she met with squally unsettled weather, the winds mostly from N. Eastward, blowing strong, with intervening calms, and a turbulent sea, which prevented her passing Ragged Island till the 3d of December. She saw Mount Calavite, on Mindora, December 9th, afterward kept within a moderate distance of the Coast of Luconia, until abreast of the Gap of Bigan the 15th, and arrived at the entrance of Canton River on the 25th December.

Ships which sail indifferently, often adopt the eastern route to China, after the middle of November; or otherwise pass into the Sooloo Sea by the Strait of Balabac, and after reaching the Island Mindanao, proceed to the northward along the West coast of this island, Negroes Island, Panay, Mindora, and Luconia, which is generally practicable in the N. E. monsoon.* But the most speedy passages, have been generally made along the coast of Palawan, and Luconia, in October and November; although short gales from the northward, have in some seasons, caused considerable delay to ships proceeding by this route. A ship leaving Ma-

* The Glatton, Abergavenny, Lord Thurlow, and Osterly in company, reached lat. 9° N. near Pulo Sapata, early in October, 1793; here, they got light N. E. winds with southerly currents, gained no ground during seven days, and apprehending they would not be able to make the passage through the China sea, bore away on the 14th of October. In lat. 6° N., lon. 112° E., they got westerly winds, which carried them through Balabac Strait, and to Mindanao on the 29th; they proceeded from hence, along the West sides of Negroes Island, Panay, and Mindora, with variable breezes mostly between S. E. and S.W., and arrived, November 7th, in Manilla Bay. Here, they remained until the 7th of December, kept along the coast of Luconia to lat. 17° 20′ N., which they reached on the 12th; passed on the West side of Pratas Shoal on the 15th, and arrived on the 17th at Macao.

The Alfred and True Briton in company, left Singapore Strait. October 24th, 1799, had light northerly, and variable breezes, and reached lat. 7° 40′ N., lon. 106° 42′ E., November 15th: they were drifted back to lat. 5½° N. on the 22d, then stood to the eastward with northerly winds, and passed close to the North end of the Louisa Shoal on the 26th, rounded the South end of Balambangan, December 6th, and anchored about 1½ mile off Banguey, with the extremes from N. ½ E. to S.½ E. and the peak N. N. E. and a river's mouth East. With their long boats, they filled up their water from this river, sailed on the 9th, and were until the 17th working with N. E. and Easterly winds through the Strait of Balabac, to the northward of Banguey. They anchored at Sooloo on the 25th, where they procured some bullocks, filled up their water, and sailed again December 29th, and proceeded by the eastern passage to China.

These ships had a very tedious passage from entering the China sea, until they arrived at Sooloo, but they had little or no southerly current after passing the Louisa Shoal: had they adopted the Palawan Passage, and along the coast of Luconia, it is probable, they would have arrived much sooner in China, than by the circuitous route of an eastern passage. In some seasons, however, the winds are more favorable for proceeding by the Palawan Passage than in others; and it seems possible, that a ship which sails indifferently close to the wind, may not always be certain of getting to China by that route, if November is far advanced before she reach the S. W. end of Palawan.

VOL. II. H H

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lacca Strait, which sails well, will however, probably reach China sooner by the Palawan Passage, than by any other route, during any part of the N. E. monsoon.

To sail from china through the China sea during the N. E. mousoon;

SHIPS BOUND from CHINA to the Straits of Gaspar, Banca, or Singapore, ought in March and April, to adopt the Outer Passage by the Macclesfield Bank, which is the most expeditious route in these months, keeping well over to the Eastward at leaving China, and also from Pulo Sapata toward the shoals, where the winds are more favorable in these months than farther to the westward. In April, the Vansittart, by keeping about 3° more to the eastward than the Herefordshire, made as much progress in one day, as the latter did in ten. At all other times, the Inner Passage by the coast of Cochin-China, seems preferable. This is the shortest route, and the ease afforded to ships, by steering from the Grand Ladrone immediately before the wind, when blowing strong at N. Eastward, is a great advantage: whereas, a S. S. E. course is steered at times, for the Macclesfield Bank, which often brings the wind and sea before the beam, and strains greatly, ships deeply laden. Many have strained so much, that in order to gain upon the pumps, they were forced to bear away for the Inner Passage; others, by persevering in the Outer Passage, have laboured excessively, and some of them at last, foundered with their crews; exclusive of other missing ships, which after leaving China, probably suffered from the same cause. Had those ships at leaving Canton River, steered S. S.W. ½ W., or S. S.W. ¼ W., the direct course for the Inner Passage, they probably would not have strained in the least, but have reached their ports of destination in safety.

and in the S. W. monsoon.

DURING the S.W. MONSOON, it has been considered by many navigators, almost impracticable to make a passage down the China sea: but a fast sailing ship bound to India, will generally succeed by the Inner Passage, during the whole of the S. W. monsoon. If she depart from the Grand Ladrone with an Easterly or S. Easterly wind, which frequently blows for a few days at a time, at all seasons, she will, if bound to Bengal, probably reach her port of destination sooner than by following any of the eastern routes, on either side of Luconia.

Of late years, several ships have made their passage down the China sea, in every month of the S. W. monsoon; others which were indifferent sailers, have not been always so successful. The passage from the Grand Ladrone to Singapore Strait during the S. W. monsoon, may be accomplished in from 20 to 35 days, by a ship that sails well; particularly, if at her departure, every effort is made to get to the S. Westward near the island Hainan, or rather to get close in with the coast of Cochin-China, as soon as possible.

It may be useful to give a few brief abstracts of passages down the China sea, during the S. W. monsoon, to shew the irregularity of the winds in this season.

Abstracts of Passages from China late in the season, and during the S. W. monsoon.

The Anna, bound to Bombay, left the Grand Ladrone, May 25, 1792, with a S. E. wind, which continued one day; it then veered to South, and kept betwixt that and S. S.W.: with these winds, she did not endeavour to reach the coast of Cochin-China, but worked to the southward in the middle of the China sea, and after reaching lat. 15° N., the wind shifted to the eastward of South, and kept mostly at S. S. Eastward until she made Point Calavite on Mindora, June 14th. She then proceeded through the Sooloo sea, Macassar, and Sunda Straits. In lat. 15° N., lon. 115½° E., when the wind veered to the eastward of South, and continued in that quarter, she could easily have reached the southern part of the coast of Cochin-China, by standing on the larboard tack; for the current was in general weak, and seldom set to the northward.

The same ship, bound to Bombay, left the Grand Ladrone, June 13th, 1793, intending to proceed by the Mindora sea as in the former season, and reached lat. 17½° N., on the 17th: squally weather, and strong winds from S. Westward then set in, and continued with a current to the northward several days, which prevented her from making any progress to the southward; she therefore, bore away on the 21st, for the Bashee Islands, and proceeded by

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the Eastern Passage. After she bore away, the wind continued at S.W. moderate and light breezes, and the northerly current vanished, for none was experienced in running toward the Bashee Islands.

The True Briton, left the Grand Ladrone, May 27th, 1802, having easterly winds she steered to the southward, and saw Cape Bolina, June 7th; the wind then came from southward with a northerly current, which induced her to bear away, in order to proceed through the channel between the North end of Luconia and the Babuyanes Islands; but on opening that channel, the wind veered to East and S. E., with a current setting to the northward, which obliged her to pass out among the Bashees, betwixt Monmouth Island and Grafton Island, into the Pacific Ocean.

The Arniston and fleet, left the Grand Ladrone, July 6th, 1796, and were ten days reaching the Bashee Islands, with mostly S. Easterly winds.

The Cornwallis, in 1789, proceeded down the middle of the China sea in May and June, and reached Singapore Strait in about thirty days from Macao; having made several of the shoals to the eastward of Pulo Sapata, during her passage.

The fleet bound to England, left the Grand Ladrone, May 10th, 1807, intending to adopt the passage through the Mindora and Sooloo sea; but the wind being at N. E. when they sailed, and veering to eastward, they were obliged to steer for Pulo Sapata, and passed that island on the 22d with a N. E. wind. On the 26th, in lat. 7° N., they got the wind light and variable at southward, made Pulo Capas on the 31st, then continued to work along the eastern coast of Malay, against southerly winds and a current setting generally to the northward, until June 18th, they got into the strait of Singapore.

The Laurel left Macao, June 10th, 1788, bound to Tringany and Bengal; she had the wind first at S. S. W., then variable at S. E., East, and N. E., and on the 17th, had soundings on the Macclesfield Bank. With a continuance of variable winds, sometimes southerly, at other times from N. E. and N.W., she proceeded to the southward, and on the 27th, passed close to a low sandy island in lat. 8° 43′ N., having a sand bank and reef projecting from it. From thence, the winds were mostly light and variable from South to S.W., with which she got sight of the North Natunas, July 6th, and anchored on the 10th in Tringany Road.

The same ship, in the preceding year, left Macao, June 26th, bound to Batavia; had S.W. and S. S.W. winds the first four days, then variable at N.W., N. E., and S. E., the following four days; afterward, S. E. and Easterly, until she made the S.W. part of Palawan and the adjacent shoals, July 8th. She went through Balabac Strait, along the N. E. coast of Borneo, through the strait of Macassar, and did not anchor at Japara on the Island of Java until August 12th.

The Lord Castlereagh, and Charlotte, left the Grand Ladrone about the middle of July 1807, intending to proceed by the Eastern Passage outside of Luconia, being bound to Bombay. The winds being at eastward, they were retarded greatly, encountered a Ty-foong near the Bashee Islands, in which the Charlotte lost her sails and returned to Macao. The wind continuing at eastward, the Castlereagh bore away for the Inner Passage, betwixt the shoals and Hainan, then proceeding along the coasts of Cochin-China and Cambodia, the wind prevailing from eastward most of the time. From thence, she soon got to Tringany and Malacca; and after remaining a month at the latter place, had a tedious passage to Prince of Wales' Island; and in working out between Achen Head and the Nicobars in October and early in November, she experienced westerly winds. Although this ship got easily down the China sea in July, it is probable, that if at leaving the Grand Ladrone, the wind had permitted her to proceed into the Pacific Ocean, she would have made a quicker passage to Bombay; for the route from Malacca Strait to the western coasts of India, is generally very tedious in the S.W. monsoon.

The Thames, Captain Williams, left the Grand Ladrone, August 20th, 1800, bound to

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England, had the winds variable, mostly at S. Eastward, for several days, which prevented her from making much progress in that direction toward the Mindora Passage; and the season being far advanced, it was resolved when in lat. 19° N. on the 25th, to proceed down the China sea, toward Singapore Strait. She had soundings on the Macclesfield Bank on the 29th; afterward, the winds were often at S.W. and S. S.W., blowing strong with a heavy sea, and sometimes variable light breezes were experienced, which prevented her from reaching Singapore Strait until October 9th.*

The Asia, bound to Bombay, with the Sarah in company, left the Grand Ladrone. August 20th, 1803, made the Taya Islands on the 23d, Pulo Canton on the 29th, passed Cape Padaran September 4th: from hence, with southerly and variable winds, they worked to the southward, saw Pulo Condore on the 14th, passed outside of Pulo Capas, and inside of Pulo Timoan, Pulo Tingy, and the circumjacent islands, close along the Malay coast, and on the 30th got into Singapore Strait.

The Asia, bound to Bombay, left the Grand Ladrone September 10th, 1798, had a gale at northward on the 12th, which veered to N.W. and West on the following day, then abated: at sun-set on the 15th, the South part of Hainan bore from N. E. to N.W., distant 6 or 7 leagues, in 45 fathoms water; stood S. Westward with a S. S. E. and southerly wind, and in 49 fathoms on the following noon, saw the coast of Cochin-China. She proceeded along this coast, with moderate and variable breezes, saw Cape St. James on the.21st; with westerly winds she then stood to the southward, passed 15 leagues to the eastward of Pulo Condore, outside of Pulo Timoan and Pulo Aor, and October 1st, entered the Strait of Singapore.

The Anna, (and three other ships belonging to Bombay), left the coast of China, September 15th, 1803, had variable winds from N.W. to North, round to N. E., East and S. E., made Pulo Canton on the 19th, experienced strong southerly currents along the coast of Cochin-China to Cape Padaran, which she passed on the. 22d. Here, we got strong S.W. gales on the 23d and 24th, also on the 27th and 28th had strong gales, hard squalls and a high sea, when working betwixt Pulo Condore and the coast of Cambodia, which abated on the 29th. Worked along the coast, until in sight of Pulo Oby on the 30th, saw the Redang Islands, October 5th, then proceeded to the southward in sight of the Malay coast, with the winds mostly variable and light between S. E. and S. W., inclining to land and sea breezes, and a drain of northerly current. We passed close on the East side of Pulo Aor on the 10th, and on the 12th, entered the strait of Singapore.

The Upton Castle, from Manilla, bound to Bombay, endeavoured to pass through the strait of Manilla, in July, into the Pacific Ocean; but here, she met with strong easterly winds, and a lee current, which induced Captain Beyts, the commander of this ship, to steer westward through the China sea, and the easterly winds continued till he anchored at Nhiatrang, on the coast of Cochin-China early in August, where after receiving a supply of water, he worked along the western side of the China sea to the strait of Singapore.

FROM WHAT HAS BEEN STATED, it appears, that in a fast sailing ship, a passage may be made down the China sea during any period of the S.W. monsoon; although in some years, with considerable difficulty. In June, July, and August, an indifferent sailing ship should not attempt it, except she depart from the coast of China with a favorable wind: and even in a fast sailing ship, unless some material advantage is in view, she ought not to proceed down the China sea in these months, if bound to the western parts of India. A ship bound to Bengal, may sometimes make a tolerable passage, by sailing early from China; but those bound to Bombay, will generally have a tedious passage from Achen Head to that

* Captain Williams, was the first commander, in the Company's service, who attempted and succeeded, in beating down the middle of the China sea with a large ship against the S.V. monsoon, notwithstanding the Thames had a weakly crew at the time.

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port, in October and part of November; and if a ship depart from China in May or June,, she will probably reach Bombay as soon, or sooner by an Eastern Passage, than by beating down the China Sea, and proceeding through the Straits of Malacca, or Sunda.

ISLANDS in the S. WESTERN PART of the CHINA SEA: EAST COAST of MALAY; with SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Islands between Borneo and the Malay Coast.

EXCLUSIVE of the islands contiguous to the West coast of Borneo, there are several groups, and detached islands to the northward of the equator, situated in the space betwixt that coast and the Malay peninsula, which require notice; for ships passing between Singapore Strait and the Coast of Borneo, or proceeding into, or out of the China Sea by the Carimata Passage, generally pass near, or among some of these islands.

Geo. Site of St. Barbe.

ST. BARBE, called PULO PANEEKY BASSAR, by the Malays, in lat. 0° 7′ N., lon. 107° 15′ E., or 9 miles East of Gaspar Island, is a high and bold island, of triangular form, about 3 miles long; when first discerned, it appears like two or three islands, being lower at the centre than at the N. E. and West parts. The N.W. point has two small rocks nearly joining to it, and a bay on the East side of the point, where water may be procured, and some of the sandy beaches afford turtle at times: a ship may anchor off the S. E. end of the island, in 25 or 26 fathoms, where also, wood and water may be procured. As the shore is fronted by a reef, boats can only land at high tide, at which time, fresh water may be rafted off from the bay at the North part of the island, which is the best anchorage in the southerly monsoon. The tide rises here about 6 feet on the springs, and flows to 6 hours on full and change of the moon.

Geo. Site of Direction Island.

DIRECTION ISLAND, or PULO PANEEKEY KATCHEEL, in lat. 0° 15′ N., lon. 108° 5′ E., or E. ¾ N. 16½ leagues from the former, is somewhat larger, of conical form in the centre, and may be seen 10 or 12 leagues; low land projects from its South-west extremity, which is a contiguous small island. Betwixt it and St. Barbe, the soundings are generally from 20 to 30 fathoms; to the westward of the latter 35 to 25 fathoms, decreasing to 20 and 18 fathoms toward Lingin. In the channel between Direction Island and Pulo Dattoo, the soundings are usually 18 and 19 fathoms regular.

Welstead's Rock.

Geo. Site.

WELSTEAD'S ROCK, discovered in the Company's ship General Harris, Capt. G. Welstead, on the homeward passage from China, at ½ past 8 A. M., January 10th, 1825, when standing to the S. E. with a light breeze at S. S.W., the ship suddenly struck, and grazed over a coral bank, with three or four slight shocks, put the helm up and wore to the northward; sounded at the time in 3¼ fathoms, deepened immediately into 6, 12, and 20 fathoms as before, and when just clear of the shoal, the small islet off the West side of Direction Island was visible from the quarter-deck above water, the peak on Direction Island bearing S. 28° E., the peak on the highest of the Tumbelan Islands N. 38° W., and the Southern extreme of the Tumbelan's N. 48° W., distance from Direction Island about 6 or 7 leagues, and from Pulo Jarrang, the S. Easternmost of the Tumbelan Islands, about 7 or 8 leagues. By calculation from the following noon's observation, the Rock is situated in lat. 0° 32′ N., and in lon. 107° 55′ E. by mean of three chronometers, corresponding with the longitude of the peak of the Tumbelan's, and the Natunas, by Capt. Ross. This rock being situated nearly in mid-channel between Direction Island and the Tumbelan's, is consequently

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very dangerous for large ships: for although the chief officer, Mr. Whiteman, searched an hour in the boat to sound again upon the rock, and examine it more particularly, yet he could not find it, as neither breakers nor rollers were seen to point out its situation, and it may therefore be probably a single rock, or a narrow ridge of small extent. The coral rock was clearly visible under the ship's bottom when she grazed over it, and the depth of water at that time, taken exactly, was found to be not quite 22 feet. The Hilsborough had 7 fathoms on a rocky bank about this place many years ago, but it was not then known to be dangerous.

Pulo Dattoo and other islands.

PULO DATTOO, in lat. 0° 7′ N., distant about 10 or 11 leagues eastward from Direction Island, and 4 or 5 miles to the westward of Souroutou, lies within 8 or 9 leagues of the Borneo Coast, and being high in the centre, of an oblong form, it is visible from the ships at anchor in Pontiana, and Mampava Roads. To the N. Eastward of Pulo Dattoo, several islands stretch along the coast from lat. 0° 20′ to 0° 50′ N. betwixt Mampava and Sambas, having safe channels and regular soundings among them. From Pulo Dattoo, the depths decrease from 18 or 19 fathoms, to 4 and 5 fathoms, within 3 or 4 miles of the Borneo shore.

Geo. Site of St. Esprit Islands.

ST. ESPRIT, are a group of islands, extending about 4 leagues W. by N. and E. by S., the body of them being in about lat. 0° 34′ N.; the easternmost island, is in lat. 0° 34′ N., lon. 107° 13½′ E., bearing from the North bluff point of St. Barbe N. 3° W., distant 27 miles.

Green Island, in lat. 0° 43′ is a small square island, with a sandy beach, and covered with trees, situated in a direct line between the Tambelan, and easternmost St. Esprit islands, rather nearer than mid-channel to the latter.

Geo. Site of Tambelan Islands.

TAMBELAN, or TUMBELAN ISLANDS, about 12 leagues N. Eastward of those last mentioned, are a group of considerable extent, in a N.W. and S. E. direction, and moderately elevated; the large Tambelan or Easternmost Island, is in lat. 1° 0′ N., lon. 107° 35′ E. by chronometer. There is good anchorage and shelter from most winds on the West side of the Great Tambelan, with a channel near a mile wide between its South point and the islets adjacent. There is also a wide channel between the islands at their western part, leading eastward to the Great Tambelan, with 30 to 18 fathoms water, formed between the N.E. and S.W. division of these islands, in an extensive bason or harbour. Directly North from the easternmost island, in lat. 1° 12′ N. there is a gap rock, and another small rock to the eastward near it; the depths around these rocks are 24 to 30 fathoms, and the passage betwixt them and the islands is safe, if care be taken to avoid the Europe Shoal. A ship touching at the Tambelan Islands, may sometimes procure a few goats, poultry, or other refreshments, although little is to be expected here, the natives being very poor. There is a white rock about 7 miles E. S. E. from Pulo Jarra, or the S. Easternmost island of the Tambelans, with a safe passage between them.

Europe Shoal.

Geo. Site.

EUROPE SHOAL, discovered by the Company's ship of this name, when she grounded on it in 1816, is situated near to the Tambelan Islands, extending about ½ a mile East and West, and a ¼ mile in breadth, with various depths on it, from 5 fathoms rocky bottom, to 2 fathoms the least water. When just clear of the edge of the shoal, extremes of the Tambelans bore from S. by W. ½ W. to S. E., distant about 4 leagues. Stood a little to the N.E. and anchored in 25 fathoms, with Rocky Island bearing W. ¾ S., Gap Rock East, Tambelans from S. by W. ¾ W. to S. E. ¾ E., distant about 5 leagues. By the bearings of the Tambelans, this dangerous shoal appears to lie in lat. 1° 12′ N., lon. 107° 24′ E.

Rocky Island and others.

ROCKY ISLAND, in lat. 1° 9′ N., distant about 3 leagues W. N.W. from the N.W. extremity of the Tambelans, is small, and has an islet close to it. SADDLE ISLAND, about 4 leagues farther to the N.W., is situated in lat. 1° 16′ N. CAMEL ISLAND, or

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CAMEL'S HUMP, in about lat. 1° 10′ N., is 4 leagues to the S.W. of Saddle Island, and 6 or 6½ leagues nearly West from Rocky Island: the channels betwixt these islands are safe, the depths from 26 to 34 fathoms.

Geo. Site of St. Julian.

ST. JULIAN, in about lat. 0° 54′ N., lon. 106° 48′ E., is a small island, which by several navigators, has been mistaken for the Camel's Hump.

Acasta Rock, a late discovery.

ACASTA ROCK, discovered by Capt. Keen, of the American ship Acasta, at 10½ A. M. May 15th, 1820, with Victory Island bearing about S. by E., 6 miles distant, when she passed about two ships' lengths from this danger, which seemed to be a rock under water, the central part of a very brown colour, declining to a pale green around.

Geo. Site.

The above mentioned rock has also been seen in the ship Isabella, of Prince of Wales' Island, of which the following account has been communicated to me by Capt. G. F. Gottlieb, then chief officer of that ship. December 18th, 1822, at noon, Victory Island E. S. E. 5 or 6 miles; at 1 P. M. a strong breeze with a heavy sea from N. N.W. standing to the N. E., observed heavy breakers on a rock, on the lee bow, put the helm down, hove all a-back, and the ship veering round again to the N. Eastward, she passed so close to leeward of the rock, that two of the breakers rebounded from it, and struck against the ship's weather bow. This rock bears from Victory Island N, ¾ W., distant about 5 miles, which will place it in lat. 1° 39′ N., lon. 106° 21′ E. When the sea receded, the rock appeared to be about 2 or.3 feet under the surface, and seems to have deep water around, as we had no bottom with 30 fathoms, about a cable's length to the eastward of it.

Geo. Site of Victory Island.

Geo. Site of Victory Island.

VICTORY ISLAND, in lat. 1° 34′ N., lon.106° 22′ E., is of moderate height, covered with wood, sometimes called Woody Island. About 10 miles E. S. Eastward from it, in lat. 1° 32′ N., there is a barren whitish island, called sometimes, French White Rock. The depths near Victory Island, are 34 and 36 fathoms, decreasing a little to the westward, as the entrance of Singapore Strait is approached.

Anambas Islands.

Geo. Site.

ANAMBAS ISLANDS, are extensive, and may be considered as consisting of three divisions or groups, with safe channels between them. SOUTH ANAMBAS, or Southern Group, lie North a little westerly from Victory Island, and extend from lat. 2° 18′ to 2° 40′ N., having to the westward in lat. 2° 18′ N., lon. 105° 33′ E. a White Rock, high above water, with Saddle Island, about.5 leagues to the N. E. of it, which is small.

Geo. Site of Pulo Domar.

PULO DOMAR, in lat. 2° 45′ N., lon. 105° 23′ E., or 49 miles East from Pulo Aor, is a high barren rock, with 34 or 36 fathoms water close to it; 35 to 40 fathoms betwixt it and the Anambas; and 32 to 36 fathoms, in the proper channel between it and Pulo Aor.

Geo. Site of Anambas.

MIDDLE, or GREAT ANAMBAS, are a group of high islands, nearly joining to each other: their western limit is in lat. 3° 9′ N., lon. 105° 37′ E., and the southernmost of these is the largest of the Anambas Islands, having a peak on the eastern part, and a bay with deep water in it on the western side.

Another small group, extending to the N. Eastward of these, and called NORTH, ANAMBAS, forms the N. E. limit of these islands, in lat. 3° 27′ N., lon 106° 15′ E. One of the islands, called Peaked Island, is in lat. 3° 10′ N., and lies nearest to the East end of the large island.

The largest islands are inhabited, and abound with tropical fruits and vegetables, but it is dangerous landing without proper precaution, for the Malays who reside on them, will massacre, or make slaves of strangers, if they perceive a convenient opportunity.

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Natunas.

NATUNAS, extend from the coast of Borneo a great way to the N.Westward, distinguished as three groups, the North Natunas, Great or Grand Natuna and its contiguous isles, and South Natunas near Borneo; this group is subdivided by a safe channel, and the outside channel is spacious, betwixt it and the Great Natuna.

Geo. Site of Northern Natunas.

And of Saddle Island.

NORTH NATUNAS, consisting of a long island stretching N. E. by N. and S. W. by S. about 7 miles, with a small island close to each extremity, are highest at the northern part, but to the southward, rather low; and close to the N.W. point of the northernmost island, there is a small islet. The northern extremity of these islands is in lat. 4° 49′ N., lon. 108° 2′ E., measured from Pedro Branco by chronometer. There are 35 fathoms water about 1½ mile N. N.W. from the northern island, but the whole of the western coast of these islands is lined by a dangerous reef, which extends nearly 4 miles West from their southern extremity, and S. by W. 2 miles from this extremity in lat. 4° 39′ N. lies a rock above water. The soundings near these islands, are irregular in some places, for the Laurel had from 20 to 10 fathoms, and at one time 7 fathoms coral rock, with the islands bearing from N.W. by W. to W. S.W., distant 5 or 6 miles; when the body of them bore S.W., distant 3 or 4 miles, the soundings were more regular. Saddle Island, in lat. 4° 31′ N., lon. 107° 44′ E., distant about 6 leagues S.W. by W. from the North Natunas, and 8½ leagues about N. by W. from N.W. Island, which lies to the West of the North end of the Grand Natuna, has a reef projecting from its South end, and another from the North-west end, with less than 3 fathoms water on it, and 40 fathoms close to. A rock above water lies about 3 or 4 miles to the S. S.W. of this island, with 28 fathoms between them. The North Natunas produce cocoa-nuts, and some other fruits, and they are inhabited by Malays.

A shoal of breakers about 2 miles in extent, is said to be situated in lat. 4° 25′ N., seen by the Success, November 14th, 1815: when the breakers were seen from the deck, bearing E. by S. about 2 miles, Saddle Island bore N.W.¾ W., the N. E. extreme of the North Natuna N. by E., the N.W. extreme of Great Natuna S. by W. ¼ W., distant about 6 leagues, and about 5 leagues from Saddle Island. She afterward tacked in 35 fathoms within a mile of the breakers.

Geo. Site of Great Natunas,

and N. W. Islands.

GRAND, or GREAT NATUNA, called Pulo Boong-ooran by the Malays, extends from lat. 3° 40′ to 4° 13′ N., and the two small islands off the North point, joined to it by a reef, extend about 3 miles farther, with 17 fathoms within a mile of them. The northern extreme is in lon. 108° 14′ E., and the eastern part of the island in 108° 26′ E. by chronometer, and it is about 6½ leagues in breadth East and West: the land in the interior is high to the South of lat. 4° N., where stands a Quoin Hill, and a mountain near the East point, which may be seen 14 or 15 leagues; but some of the points that project into the sea, are low, particularly from lat. 4° N. to the North end of the island it is all low, with red cliffs at the northern extremity. Reefs and islets line the eastern coast, rendering it dangerous to approach under 2 leagues in some places, at which distance the depths are from 34 to 46 fathoms; the western coast is also fronted 6y islands of various sizes, among which, the chief is S.W. Island, its southern point, in lat. 3° 34′ N, and it is high. Peaked Island, in lat. 3° 54′ N. is also high; likewise N.W. Island, situated in lat. 4° 7′ N., lon. 107° 52′ E., which is lined by a reef, projecting a mile or more from its South point, with anchorage of 20 fathoms on the West side.

In lat. 4° 1½′ N., and 6 miles S. S.W. from N.W. Island, lies a reef of coral rock with only 2 fathoms on it, and from 20 to 30 fathoms near it on the West and S.W. sides: about 5 miles S.W. by S. from the above reef, and 3 leagues W. N.W. from Peaked Island, and a little farther from N W. Island, there lies another coral shoal in lat. 3°.57′ N., having 3 fathoms rocks on it, and from 20 to 30 fathoms mud close around; which shoals were explored by Capt. Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, in 1814.

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Low Pyramidal Rocks.

Geo. Site.

LOW PYRAMIDAL ROCKS, situated about 8½ leagues West from N.W. Island, and 12 or 13 leagues distant from the western part of the Great Natuna, are much in the way of ships returning from China late in the season, when they pass between the Anambas and the Natunas toward Gaspar Straits. The Windham, and Coldstream, January 17th, 1817, passed on the East side of these rocks at 4 miles distance, which they describe to be a clump, of rugged aspect, elevated about 20 or 25 feet above the sea, and made them in lat. 4° 6′ N.

lon. 107° 24½′ E. The General Kyd, Capt. Nairne, March 19th, 1818, passed 4 or 5 miles to the West of them, which were found to lie in about lat. 4° 9′ N., lon. 107° 27′ E. by chronometer, measured from Macao. When N.W. Island bore N. 85° E., the rocks were on a transit line with Peaked Island bearing S. 72° E., distant 4 or 5 miles.

Geo. Site of Haycock Island,

HAYCOCK ISLAND, in lat. 3° 19′ N., lon. 107° 34′ E., distant 10 or 11 leagues S.Westward from S.W. Island off the Great Natuna, is high, of conical shape; having a reef projecting from it to the S.W. and southward 3 or 4 miles, with 30 and 33 fathoms near its edge.

Diana's Shoal.

DIANA'S SHOAL, is a dangerous coral reef to the N.Westward of Low Island, which Lieut. Kempthorne got upon, in H. M. brig Diana, and from whose journal the following account is taken. December 10th, 1808, at ½ past 7 A. M. saw the bottom, and sounded in ¼ less 5 fathoms, but lost the lead, by it getting fixed in the coral. Wore to the eastward, and had 5½, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11, 17 fathoms, then no bottom at 20 fathoms. The boat, sent to sound, had 3½ fathoms, and several casts of 5½ fathoms on the points of coral, with deep water between them: two spots of discoloured water, one bearing South, and the other S. W. by W. about 2 miles, appeared much shoaler than where the boat sounded. The shoal seemed to extend N. E. by E. and S.W. by W., on which no broken water was visible, but when the swell rolled over the points of coral, it resembled a shoal of fish.

When the bottom was first seen in ¼ less 5 fathoms, the N. E. point of Low Island bore S. E., and the N.W. point with the S.W. point just open of it, bore S. S. E. ½ E., Haycock Island N. 43° W., distance from Low Island about 9 or 10 miles. Where the boat sounded, she had nearly the same bearings, but was ½ a mile more to the N.W., with Haycock Island just in sight from her.

The channel between the Natunas and the Anambas Islands, is wide and safe in day-light; but as several coral spots with very little water on them have been discovered in the vicinity of the Natunas, a good look out is necessary, as other shoal patches may probably exist, not yet known.

Geo. Site of Low Island.

LOW ISLAND, in lat. 3° 1′ N., lon. 107° 48′ E., distant about 8 leagues to the S. E. of Haycock Island, is of considerable extent, having shoal water extending to a considerable distance from its eastern and western sides; and the following shoal, lately discovered, in the ship Janet Hutton, requires great caution, in ships passing to the southward of Low Island.

Hutton's Shoal.

HUTTON'S SHOAL, is thus described in the journal of Capt. Howard. November 9th, 1822, at 10 A. M., observing shoal water to extend a long way off the East and West ends of Low Island, edged out to give it a wide birth in passing on the South side. From 10 A.M. to noon, steered E. by S. 3 miles, and East 2 miles till noon, when discoloured water was seen bearing East, hauled up N. E. by N. to go between it and the island, the extremes of the latter then bearing from N.W. by N. to W. by N., distant about 3 miles, observed lat. 2° 59′ N.

November 10th, P. M. In passing through between the shoal and the island, the least water found was 8 fathoms rocks, with the East part of the island bearing S. W. by W.½ W., distant 3 miles, and the nearest patch of shoal water bearing S. E. from the ship. This

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appears to be an extensive shoal, consisting of patches, and formed in the shape of a horse shoe. After having passed between it and Low Island, sent the 1st officer in a boat to examine the nearest patch, on which he had 3¾ fathoms pyramidal rocks, and there is probably less water on some of the patches, with channels between them. The southern, or outer patch, appeared to be 4 or 4½ miles distant from Low Island in an E. by N. or E. N. Easterly direction.

Geo. Site of South Natunas.

SOUTH NATUNAS, form a kind of square about 10 or 12 leagues in diameter; the northernmost of them called Flat Island, in lat. 3° 3′ N., lon. 108° 54′ E., is of considerable extent from North to South, formed of low land, except the North end, which is of moderate height: to the southward of it, there are some islets and rocks, and a Rocky Shoal about 6 or 7 miles to the eastward. WEST ISLAND, in lat. 2° 40′ N., lon. 108° 40′ E., about 9 leagues S.W. ½ S. from Flat Island, is of considerable height, and bears from the small island in lat. 4° 0′ N., off the East point of Great Natuna, S. 7° E. distant 80 miles: a reef projects ½ a mile from the North and West sides of the island, and farther from the N. E. part; and at the distance of 2½ miles N. E. by E. from it, there is a high rock, apparently environed with shoal water. The depths in the channel between the Great Natuna and these islands, are from 40 to 52 fathoms. EAST ISLAND, in lat. 2° 40′ N., lon. 109° 26′ E., is high, and distant about 15 leagues to the eastward of West Island. SOUTH ISLAND, called also HIGH ISLAND, or Sapata, in lat. 2° 26′ N., and 7 or 8 leagues S.Westward of East Island, has several small isles, and rocks contiguous; and straggling rocks are said to extend from these to the South Haycock Island, precluding a passage between them and the latter island.

The passage between the South Natunas, formed by Flat Island Group and West Island on one side; and by East Island, South Island, and South Haycock Island on the other, is wide and safe, with soundings from 20 to 30 fathoms. The islands on the East of it are steep to, but Flat Island Group must not be approached close, the ground being rocky to the distance of 3 or 4 miles off; and the shoal to the eastward of the island is dangerous, on which the Pigot nearly grounded.

South Haycock Island, in lat. 2° 13′ N., lon. 108° 57′ E., is the most conspicuous of those to the southward of the South Natunas; and the two small islands St. Pierre in lat. 1° 56′ N., lon. 108° 53′ E., about 6 leagues distant from the South Haycock, are in one with each other bearing E. ¼ N.: a little outside of these islands, the soundings are from 22 to 28 fathoms. About 3 miles S. S.W. from the largest island of St. Pierre, there is a Dangerous Ledge of rocks with breakers on it; having 18 fathoms mud, when it bears North; about 2 miles distance. There is another island eastward of St. Pierre, near to Tanjong Apee, the nearest part of Borneo.

Larkin's Shoal.

LARKIN'S SHOAL, on which the ship of this name grounded in the night, April, 1820, was found to consist of rocks and breakers, and is situated in about lat. 2° 11′ N. between the South Natunas and the coast of Borneo: at anchor near the edge of the shoal at day-light, Tanjong Apee bore from South to S. by E., distant about 3 leagues, and South Haycock Island W. ½ N. The soundings were very irregular in the vicinity of the shoal: and breakers appeared to extend from the South Natunas toward South Haycock Island. The passage between the South Natunas and the coast of Borneo, seems not very safe on account of these dangers.

Geo. Site of Pulo Tingy.

PULO TINGY, in lat. 2° 17′ N., lon. 104° 11′ E., hearing nearly W. S.W. from Pulo Aor 9½ or 10 leagues, is the southernmost of the islands situated near the East coast of Malay; it is conspicuous by a very high peak, which rising gradually from the low land near the sea, terminates at the summit in a sharp spire or cone. A chain of islets projects from

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the S. E. part of the principal island, about 3 leagues to S. S. Eastward; the outermost of them being a round bluff rock in lat. 2° 8′ N., and 4 or 5 leagues distant from the main. There is another small island inside, adjoining to Pulo Tingy, which is on with the peak bearing N. N. E. ½ E.; and N.W. by N. from this small island, there is a rock about the size of a boat, off a bluff point on the main, which forms the northern extreme of a bay. From the N.W. point of Pulo Baby, which is an island of considerable size, and the nearest to the northward of Pulo Tingy, the rock mentioned bears N.W. by N. ¾ N.: this, and the other rocks near the main, are not high above water.

Inside Channel.

The passage inside of Pulo Tingy, betwixt its contiguous islets, and the main land, is safe in day-light; with regular soundings, 6 and 7 fathoms near the main, and 12 or 14 fathoms near Pulo Tingy. The course through, is about N.W. by N., but it would be dangerous to run in the night, on account of numerous islets, and some rocks above water. On the North side of Pulo Tingy, in a small bay, there are cocoa-nut trees, banana trees, and huts; and a watering place at the South end of the island.

Geo. Site of Pulo Aor.

PULO AOR, or WAWOOR, is in lat. 2° 29′ to 2° 30′ N., lon. 104° 34½′ E., or 9° 9½′ W. from Grand Ladrone, by mean of many chronometers; Captain Heywood made it 2° 10′ E. of Malacca, I made it the same, and 9 miles East of Pedro Branco by mean of chronometers in different voyages, and Captain C. M'Intosh made it also 9 miles East of Pedro Branco by chronometers. This island is generally adopted as a point of departure, by ships bound to China, and they also steer for it, on their returning passage. It is small, but high and covered with trees, formed of two hills with a gap between them, which gives it the appearance of two islands when viewed at a great distance, bearing N. E. or S.W., and resembles a saddle on a nearer approach; but when it bears to the N.W., the hills are in one. The easternmost hill, is of round form, like a dome, rather higher than the other, and in clear weather, may be seen 15 or 16 leagues from the deck; at such times, Bintang Hill and Pulo Aor are visible together, when mid-way between them. The bay on the S.W. side of the island, affords good shelter in the N. E. monsoon, when the wind is any way between North and E. S. E.; and here, persons unacquainted with the entrance of Singapore Strait, frequently anchor in dark hazy blowing weather, until it becomes more favorable for running into that strait. Close to the S. E. point of Pulo Aor, there is an islet covered with trees, and another contiguous to the N.W. point of the bay: to the northward of the latter, there is a third islet larger than those, separated from the North end of the principal island, by a narrow, but probably deep gut.

To sail into the bay.

If coming from the northward, and intending to anchor in Pulo Aor Bay during N. E. winds, pass on the West side of the island, in order to fetch into the bay, so far as the watering place, which is a small running stream on the North side of it. After rounding the West side of the island at any convenient distance, which is steep to, haul into the bay until the small island is on with the N.W. point of it, and anchor in 20 to 15 fathoms sandy bottom, with the extremes bearing from N.W. to S. E. ½ E., off shore about ½ a mile: but sail ought to be reduced in time, because from 20 fathoms the bank is steep, and it would be imprudent to shoal under 15 fathoms in a large ship.

The island is inhabited, and there are a considerable number of huts around the bay, where fire-wood and some cocoa-nuts may be procured, but no other refreshments, except water. Ships water with their own boats, for the natives although shy of strangers, are generally found to be inoffensive; it is, however, imprudent, to let the sailors go up into the country. There is a rise and fall of tide about 5 or 6 feet perpendicular, although the current in the offing sets mostly with the monsoon. The depths near Pulo Aor, are from 32 to 35 fathoms to the northward and eastward, 24 and 25 fathoms to the westward, decreasing to 16 or 17 fathoms toward Pulo Tingy, and to 21 fathoms close to the South end of Pulo Pisang.

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Pulo Pisang.

PULO PISANG, or PAMBEELAN, in lat. 2° 37′ N., distant about 5 leagues N.W. by W. from Pulo Aor, resembles the latter when seen in hazy weather bearing to the S.W. or Southward; for it is formed of two hills with a gap between them, which gives it the appearance of a saddle, but it is not so high as Pulo Aor. It is said, that water may be got upon Pulo Pisang, but ships seldom stop here, for it is not inhabited, consequently affords no supplies. The bay on the S. W. side is similar to that of Pulo Aor, with the exception of the islets; the anchorage in the bay is in 18 or 19 fathoms 1 mile off shore. A very remarkable perpendicular rock will be seen on the side of the hill, close to the sea.

Geo. Site of Pulo Timoan; inside channel, and contiguous isles.

PULO TIMOAN, or TEOMAN, the largest and highest of these islands, extends about 10 miles North and South, and is 4 or 5 miles in breadth; the South end of it being in lat. 2° 44′ N., bearing about N.W. ½ W. from Pulo Aor 8 or 8½ leagues, and 10 miles distant from Pulo Pisang. The northern extremity is in lat. 2° 54′ N., and both the North and South parts are in lon. 104° 15′ E. At a small distance from the N.W. end of the island, there is a group formed of four small ones, the northernmost of which, a round small island, is in lat. 2° 56′ N.; the next to this has a flat appearance, and is larger than the others. Pulo Timoan may be discerned 18 or 20 leagues in clear weather, and on its South end, two remarkable peaks, standing on one base, rise almost perpendicularly from the sea to a great height, called from their aspect, the Asses Ears. There is a village on the S. E. side of the island, in a small sandy bay, with anchorage in 20 or 22 fathoms sand, during fine weather; but the bay on the S.W. side, in lat. 2° 48½′ N., affords the best shelter in the N.E. monsoon. If you intend to anchor here, when coming from the northward, pass close round the N.W. end of Pulo Timoan, betwixt it and the small islands, in which passage, the depths are 24 to 20 fathoms, and it is 2 or 3 miles broad. Keeping about 1½ or 2 miles from the western shore of Timoan, the water will shoal gradually in the bay to 10 or 9 fathoms sand and gravel; the best birth is in 15 or 16 fathoms, with the island bearing from E. S. E. to N. N.W., and the middle of the sandy bay N. N. E. ½ E. There is a small river at the East side of the bay, where boats can fill their casks, but a bar at the entrance prevents their going in and out at low water; at a small rivulet on the N.W. side of the bay, fresh water may be filled at all times. Fire-wood may be procured in abundance near the shore. Refreshments are not to be had here, the bay not being inhabited, although in several parts of the island, there are fruits, vegetables, and some cultivation. There is also a stream of fresh water at the South end of the island, which runs over a stony beach into the sea, at the foot of the hill that slopes down from the Asses Ears to the southward. From this watering place, the peak of Pulo Tingy bears S. 6° W., centre of Pulo Pisang S. 50° E., highest part of Pulo Aor S. 54° E., a small islet in the offing S. 8° W., and the extremes of Pulo Timoan from East to S. 68° W. These bearings were taken by Captain William Richardson, on shore, when he watered here in the Althea, in March, 1806. Ships seldom touch at this island, and persons landing on it, must be guarded against deceit, nor ought they to penetrate into the interior, for the natives have little intercourse with Europeans.

Along the West side of the island, there are tides, the flood setting northward, and the ebb to the southward, 1 or 1½ mile per hour at times; it is high water at 6 hours on full and change of the moon, and flows perpendicularly 7 or 8 feet.

Near the South end of Pulo Timoan, there is a small island, and another small rocky island to the S.W., about 2 or 2½ leagues from the Asses Ears, and the same distance from the former island: the channel between these islands is very safe, with regular soundings of 15 to 18, and 20 fathoms within 1½ mile of the S.W. end of Pulo Timoan. After passing between these islands, the depths are mostly 16 to 14 fathoms soft ground, in steering N. Westward through the channel, bounded on the East side by the group of four islands off the N.W. end of Pulo Timoan; and on the West side by three small islands about 3½ or 4 leagues to the S.Westward of these. This channel on the West side of Pulo Timoan, is generally

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from 2½ to 4 leagues wide, and clear of danger, nor does there appear to be any around that island, but what is visible above water.

Soundings near those Island.

SOUNDINGS, in a N. N.W. direction from the North end of Palo Timoan, are generally 17 and 18 fathoms; N. by W. from it 10 or 11 leagues, 19 and 20 fathoms; 26 fathoms N. by W. about 4 leagues from it; and nearly close to the northern extremity of the island, 25 and 26 fathoms, which increase to 33 and 34 fathoms when it bears South 15 or 16 leagues. When the North end of the island bears S. S. W. about 2 leagues, the depth is 25 fathoms; when bearing West about 5 leagues, 27 or 28 fathoms; these depths continue about 4 leagues from the East side, and until Pulo Pisang bear W. S.W. about the same distance: as Pulo Aor is approached, they increase to 30 or 32 fathoms.

Soiling Directions.

During the night, or in hazy weather, several ships have at various times, found themselves close to the North end of Pulo Timoan, when they were well to the eastward of it by the reckoning.

This may always be prevented when coming from the northward in thick weather, by attending to the lead, and not coming under 32 or 33 fathoms when these islands are approached. When in lat. 3° 30′ N., it will be proper to keep out in 33 fathoms, and if you borrow not under 30 fathoms, will pass several leagues to the eastward of Pulo Timoan and Pulo Pisang; but to pass outside of Pulo Aor, haul off into 33 or 34 fathoms, for there are 32 and 33 fathoms within 3 or 4 miles of the N. E. and eastern parts of this island.

Inner Channel along the coast.

THE ARCHIPELAGO of small islands to the Westward of Pulo Timoan, and Pulo Pisang, are numerous, some of them being close to the coast, but the greater part, 2 and 3 leagues off it.

Betwixt these and the Malay coast, there is a safe channel for ships of any description, by keeping along the coast at from 3 to 4 or 5 miles distance, when passing inside of these islands and the others adjoining to Pulo Tingy. The depths in this INNER CHANNEL, are 8 to 11 fathoms in the fair track, generally soft ground; with a few casts of sand in some places, about mid-way between Pulo Tingy and the main. With a working wind, you may borrow toward the main, generally to 7, and in some places to 6 fathoms, and stand off to 11, 12, and 13 fathoms. The channel is safe in the day, but in the narrow parts among the islands, it is prudent to anchor at night, because some of the rocks or islets, are very little above water: several ships have, nevertheless, proceeded through in the night.* There are tides here at times, setting along the coast, but currents predominate when the wind blows strong, which run to the southward in the N. E. monsoon, and in the opposite direction during the southerly monsoon.

Blair's Harbour.

In lat. 2° 43′ N., and bearing W. ¼ S. from the South end of Pulo Timoan about 9 or 10 leagues, there is an island of considerable size near the main, with some small ones to the N.W. of it, and others close to the shore; close under the West side of the large island, there is good anchorage in 4 and 4½ fathoms stiff mud, where vessels may be sheltered from all winds. It is called BLAIR'S HARBOUR, and is easy of access, by passing close inside of the small islands, or betwixt them and the North point of the large one; there, the

* The ships, Seton and Surprise, from China, November 11th, 1796, passed inside of Pulo Varela, then steered along the coast in soundings of 10 to 13 fathoms; and in the night, passed inside of Pulo Tingy, where they had 9 to 7 fathoms, regular soundings.

The ship, Laurel, from Tringany, worked to the southward through this Inner Channel, September 18th and 19th, 1788, and was under sail part of the night, when to the northward of Pulo Tingy. The Asia, and Sarah, from China, bound to Bombay, passed along the Malay coast, through this Inner Channel, September 26th and 27th, 1803; these ships, prudently anchored during the night, when in the narrow part of the channel among the islands.

The Margaret, September 20th, 1802, worked to the southward between Palo Tingy and the main, standing in to the shore within ½ a mile in 5½ fathoms, and off to 9 and 10 fathoms.

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depth is 6 and 7 fathoms, decreasing to 5 and 4½ fathoms inside. By digging wells 5 feet deep, about 20 or 30 yards from high water mark, on the large island, plenty of good water may be procured. There is good anchorage under some of the other islands farther out; Captain Purefoy, in a gale at N. E., ran under one of them, which he called Shelter Island; here, he remained at anchor in smooth water, until the gale became moderate, and the weather clear.

Pulo Varela the rock, and banks adjacent.

PULO VARELA, in lat. 3° 16′ N. bearing N.W. 10 leagues from the North end of Pulo Timoan, is a barren rock 3½ or 4 leagues from the main, crowned with a few bushes, which may be discerned about 5 leagues off. There is a ledge of rocks even with the water's edge, about 1½ or 2 miles nearly north from it, on which the sea breaks in bad weather; and about 2 leagues to the North and N. N. E. of it, there is a rocky bank with overfalls, probably not dangerous, for the least water on it is thought to be about 5 fathoms.

It might have been this bank, that we got upon in the Anna, October 9th, 1803, returning from China. We were in 17 fathoms at sun-set, Pulo Timoan in sight bearing S. S. E. ½ E., stood S.W. by S. with the wind S. Easterly, shoaling gradually to 13 fathoms at 9 P. M. and tacked: when about, steering E. ½ N., shoaled to 9 fathoms hard bottom, then two casts of 7 fathoms rocky, next cast 15 fathoms, and for a short time afterward had overfalls from 11 to 13 fathoms, then deepened gradually in soft soundings. By computation from our observations on the preceding and following days, this bank where we had 7 fathoms, is in lat. 3° 20′ N., and bears N. 40° W. from the North end of Pulo Timoan about 11 leagues; but as Pulo Varela could not be discerned, and being night, we had not the means of determining the exact situation. The General Elliot anchored upon a bank, about 3 leagues E. ½ N. from Pulo Varela, probably that last mentioned, which by examining with her boats, was thought to extend North and South about 3 miles, and to be about ½ a mile in breadth. She had 18 fathoms before getting on the edge of the bank, and the least water found upon it was 6 fathoms coral rock. Betwixt it and Pulo Varela, regular soundings were found, 13 and 14 fathoms sandy bottom, and in some places mud. The bank will be avoided, by keeping out in 20 or 22 fathoms.

and inside channel.

The channel along the coast, inside of Pulo Varela, is very safe; for although the bottom is hard sand in some places, the soundings are generally pretty regular, about 11 or 12 fathoms near the island and the rock to the northward of it, shoaling gradually toward the main. About 9 leagues N. ½ E. from Pulo Varela there is a narrow bank with 6 and 7 fathoms water on it, distant 7 leagues from the coast, and extending from lat. 3° 44′ N. about N.W. by N. to lat. 3° 48′ N.

In lat. 3° 51′ N. and 50 miles West of Pulo Aor, Captain W. Owen, October 2d, 1807. at 3 A. M., steering S. by E. ½ E., shoaled from 13 to 11, 9, 8, and 7½ fathoms, hauled out E. S E., and deepened fast to 8, 10, 12, and 16 fathoms: being night when he got these shoal soundings, the situation assigned to them is by computation, but they were probably on the bank last mentioned.

Howard's Shoal.

HOWARD'S SHOAL, in lat. 4° 14′ N. or 4° 15′ N., lies in 10 fathoms water, bearing S. by W. about 30 or 31 miles from Brala, or Pulo Capas de Mer (called Tingorem by the Malays), and from the river Camaman, on the East coast of Malay, S. E. ½ E., distant 6 miles, was passed over by Capt, Howard, August 31st, 1823, in the ship Janet Hutton, of Singapore, upon which he got 3 fathoms rocks, and was informed by the Malay fishermen, that there is only 1 fathom on its centre.

East Coast of Malay.

EAST COAST OF MALAY, from Point Romania to opposite Pulo Varela, is mostly low and woody; its general direction is N. N. Westward, and when clear of Romania Reef, safe to approach by the lead.

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PAHANG or PAHAN river's entrance, situated in lat. 3° 31½′ N. about 8 or 8½ leagues to the N.W. of Pulo Varela, was formerly a place of great trade, and is still frequented by Chinese junks; but it is very shoal, and contracted by the sands, which project from the low points on each side: Pahang Point bounds the river on the south side, having Breakers stretching from it to the N. N. Eastward nearly 1½ mile; and a spit of hard sand, with 3 or 4, to 5 and 6 fathoms, extends about a mile farther in the same direction, on the west side of which, small ships may anchor in 4½ or 5 fathoms clay and sand, off shore 1½ mile, and Pahang Point South or S. ¼ E. about 2½ miles. Large ships may anchor at a greater distance from the shore.

From Pahang, the coast stretches nearly North to a point in lat. 4° 6′ N. having high land near to it, betwixt which and South Cape about 5 leagues farther to the northward, a bay is formed with some islands close to the shore, and Howard's Shoal lies about 6 miles to the S. Eastward of South Cape.

TINGERAN, or TINGORAM River's entrance, in lat. 4° 45′ N. is formed close under the south side of Rocky Point, the latter being about 4½ leagues West from Pulo Brala: this river is barred by rocks, and the coast between it and South Cape forms several bays, separated by Middle Cape, and North Cape, all of which have from 9 to 10 or 11 fathoms water within 2 or 3 miles of the shore; but these projections or capes are rocky. The river Pahang is small, and lies near to one of the capes mentioned above.

Between Pulo Varela and Tingeran, the coast is in general safe to approach to 8 or 10 fathoms; but there are frequently overfalls of 1 or 2 fathoms in the offing, on ridges that lie parallel to the coast; and there are some spots of 7 or 8 fathoms sand and gravel, with 9 fathoms inside of them.

A chain of mountains commences inland, nearly abreast of Pulo Varela, which converges toward the coast near South Cape, then extends along it towards Tringany.

Geo. Site of Pulo Brala;

PULO BRALA, or CAPAS de MER, in lat. 4° 47′ N. lon. 103° 37′ E. by chronometer, distant about 6 or 6½ leagues off the main, is of considerable size, and may be seen 10 or 11 leagues: when it bears S. 8° W. its summit is flat, but appears in hummocks when bearing S.W. and Westward. There is a black rock, 1 or 2 miles distant from its southern extremity; and the islet Capas Laut, with two or three rocks near it, lie about 4 or 5 leagues Northward from its northern extremity; which render a close approach to Pulo Brala, dangerous in the night. Betwixt this island and the coast opposite, about Rocky Point, the soundings are irregular in some places, and the bottom rocky, or sandy; but in other places, regular soundings are found over a bottom of soft mud. The channel is about 4 leagues wide, and safe, by not borrowing under 11 or 10 fathoms toward the main, nor nearer to Pulo Brala than 19 or 20 fathoms. The depths outside of this island, are 34 and 35 fathoms to the N. E. and Eastward of it, at 4 and 5 leagues distance.

Pulo Capas de Terre.

PULO CAPAS de TERRE, or CAPAS DANAT, in lat. 5° 15′ N., distant about 3½ leagues S. Eastward from Tringany Road, called also Little Capas, lies near the main, 12 or 13 leagues N.W. from Pulo Brala; it is rather low, and there is no safe channel for ships between it and the shore; but a small vessel, might venture through, in a case of necessity.

Geo. Site of Tringany.

TRINGANY RIVER'S ENTRANCE, in lat. 5° 21′ N., lon. 103° 4 E., bears about N. N.W. 12 or 13 leagues from Rocky Point, and is a place of considerable trade, where pepper, and sometimes a little gold is procured. Hitherto, ships have been in no danger of surprise from the inhabitants of this place, for the Rajah and the Government of Tringany, are more friendly to strangers than those of other Malay ports. Water, provision, fruits,

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and vegetables, may be procured. The best anchorage for large ships, is in 7 fathoms, with the flagstaff S.W. by W., Redang Islands N. ¼ W. to N. N.W. ½ W., Pulo Capas de Terre S. E. ½ S. 3 or 4 leagues, about 2 or 2½ miles from the mouth of the river. Small ships, may anchor farther in shore, in 5 fathoms. The road of Tringany is considered safe from March to September, but it is prudent to leave it before the equinox, although the gales from N. Eastward seldom are experienced until after the 15th of October; these gales generally commence at westward, and veer round to N. E.

Redang Islands and channels between them.

REDANG ISLANDS, are mostly high, and form an extensive chain along the coast from lat. 5° 33′ N. to about lat. 6° 4′ N.; the channel betwixt them and the main is thought to be safe, with 12 to 9 fathoms water; but that between the innermost and the outer islands, has 16 and 17 fathoms in it, and better known. The Great Redang in about lat. 5° 50′ N. is high, of considerable extent, having a harbour fit for small vessels formed at its S. E. part, betwixt it and another contiguous island, in which the depths are from 2½ to 5 fathoms. The soundings in the channel betwixt the Great Redang Island and the main, are regular, deepening from the latter, to 17 fathoms sand and shells, with the Redang bearing from N. E. by N. to S. E. by E., distant 2 miles. Pulo Lantinga is 2½ or 3 leagues to the N.W. of Great Redang, and the soundings mid-channel between them are 23 and 24 fathoms; at 1½ mile from the N. E. side of Pulo Lantinga, the depth is 17 fathoms. Pulo Printian in lat. 6° 4′ N. distant about 6 or 7 leagues to the W. N. Westward of Great Redang, consists of two high islands, separated by a narrow gut at their southern extremities, but opening into a large bay to the northward. This bay is open to N. E. or Northerly winds, but well sheltered from the S.W. monsoon; the soundings decrease regularly from 15 fathoms at the entrance, to 5 and 4 fathoms close to the shores on each side, and to 6 fathoms close to a ridge of rocks at the bottom of the bay. Turtle are got in the sandy bay, on the N. E. side, and Kimo or large scollops, which Captain Cheminant (who went into this bay in 1789, with the Warren Hastings, in company with a fleet of proas belonging to the Rajah of Tringany), found to be very good refreshments. Off the N. E. part of the northernmost island, there are four small isles, one of them remarkable, by having a round bluff aspect.

Calantan and coast adjacent.

CALANTAN RIVER, in about lat. 6° 12′ N. and 8 or 9 leagues W. N.W., or N.W. by W. ½ W. from Pulo Printian, is under the government of Tringany, where ships sometimes touch to procure pepper; the bar of the river is shoal, and a number of sand banks lie inside, on which boats will ground. In the road at anchor, in 5¼ fathoms mud, the observed lat. 6° 18′ N.,* with the river bearing South, extremes of the coast from S. E. by E. ½ E. to Tanjong Datoo N.W. by W. ¼ W. off shore about 3 miles. The coast from abreast of the Redang Islands to this place, may be borrowed on to 7 fathoms, soft regular soundings: from Calantan, it stretches westward into the Gulf of Siam, but is very imperfectly known beyond that place; for although formerly there was a considerable trade carried on betwixt Siam and various parts of India, it has been nearly discontinued for a long period, owing to the desolated state of the kingdom of Siam, by frequent wars; but lately, trade begins to revive betwixt Siam and the British settlement of Singapore.

* This latitude was observed by Captain Benners of an American ship; but on September 3d, 1802, the Margaret anchored in ¼ less 5 fathoms in Calantan Road, with the River's mouth bearing W. by S., off shore 2 miles, the nearest of the Redang Islands, or Pulo Printain E. S. E., and observed in lat. 6° 11′ N.

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SAILING DIRECTIONS TO, and FROM SIAM: COAST of CAMBODIA; PULO OBY, PULO CONDORE, and adjacent ISLANDS, with SAILING DIRECTIONS.

To sail from southward to Siam in the S. W. monsoon.

COMING from the southward, bound to Siam in the S.W. monsoon, keep out in 24 or 25 fathoms after leaving Pulo Timoan until you pass Pulo Varela: or pass inside of these islands at discretion, if the weather be favorable. Afterward, steer along the coast inside of Pulo Brala, as the wind hangs sometimes far westerly; and proceed through the channel betwixt the outer and inner Redang Islands, keeping inside of the great one, then on the N. E. sides of Pulo Lantinga and Pulo Printian.

Patani Cape.

and Bay.

If you pass outside of the Redang Islands, haul in for the main after rounding them, and proceed along the coast at a moderate distance, which stretches between N.W. and W. N.W. to Cape Patani in about lat. 7° 4′ N. From Calantan to this place, the coast is low, forming several bays, with some contiguous islands; inland, the country is generally hilly, or mountainous. In about lat. 7° 19′ N. and 14 leagues from Cape Patani, lies Pulo Lozin, an islet or rock,* which should not be approached in the S.W. monsoon, for it is advisable to keep within a moderate distance of the western coast; the soundings about 2 leagues inside of Pulo Lozin are 26 and 27 fathoms, decreasing regularly toward Cape Patani to 8 fathoms. Patani Bay, is to the westward of the Cape, and must not be approached on the eastern side, being very shoal; the anchorage is on the West side, where the bottom is soft. This was formerly a place of considerable trade.†

Island Tantalam.

From the West side of Patani Bay, steer along the coast in 12 or 14 fathoms, and preserve the same depths in passing the Large Island TANTALAM, which appears as part of the coast in coming from the eastward; but Ligor Bay, forms a deep concavity, on the West side of its northern extremity.

Pulo Cara.

PULO CARA, in about lat. 8° 29′ N. and 7 or 7½ leagues to the eastward of the North point of the Island Tantalam, is formed of a group of three islands near each other; the northernmost and largest, has on the S.W. side a sandy bay, where there is said to be a run of fresh water. The southernmost is only a large rock, of white appearance when viewed from that direction, and about two cables' lengths from its southern extremity, there is a flat rock, near the water's edge. The channel inside of these islands is safe, having from 14 to 18 fathoms water, about mid-way betwixt them and the N. E. end of Tantalam.

Pulo Carnom.

Larchin Islands.

PULO CARNOM, bearing about N. N.W. distant 32 leagues from Pulo Cara, seems at first sight like two islands, the mountain that forms it having a low gap, only perceptible at a short distance. The soundings are 18 to 90 fathoms, steering in the fair track between these islands; before reaching Pulo Carnom, the LARCHIN Islands will be seen to the westward contiguous to the coast, consisting of a considerable group of small islands and

* By the Formosas's Journal, it will be seen that two detached islets or rocks, exist in this place. "On the 8th of November, 1679, passed near two rocks, that lie E. ½ S. and W. ½ N. of each other, distant about 8 miles, in lat. 7° 17′ N. which are not so far of shore, as placed in the charts, nor can they be seen above 4 miles from the deck, and the soundings about them are 26 to 28 fathoms mud. The island laid down for them, goes by the name of Pulo Cosyn, but they are Pulo Cosyn's, in regard they are two very dangerous rocks."

† The Company's ship, Globe, anchored in Patani Road, in June, 1612, sailed for Siam in August, returned from thence in a passage of eight days to Patani in November, where she remained during the N. E. monsoon; she sailed again in March, 1613, for Siam, returned to Patani in September; and finally departed from the gulf of Siam, for Malacca Strait, in October.

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rocks, and to the S. Eastward of them, the high land of Point Carnom. The passage is to the eastward of Pulo Carnom, which may be approached occasionally within 2 or 3 miles, in 10 to 12 fathoms water.

Pulo Sancoria, and Pulo Bardia.

Cin Point, &c.

PULO SANCORI, about 7 leagues N.W. by N. from Pulo Carnom, is nearly of equal height; and Pulo Bardia, about 8 leagues farther in the same direction, is also a high island adjacent to the main. These islands need not be approached, but from Pulo Carnom, steer a North course toward Cin Point, in about lat. 12° N., bearing nearly N. ½ E. from it about 40 leagues: the high mountains close over this point, make it visible at a great distance, and there are two small islands adjoining to the extreme point, which has a bay on each side. From abreast of the bay on the North side of the point, the coast extends about N. N. E., having good soundings at a moderate distance; there is no danger in coasting along, until the road of Pepery is approached, to the southward of which, a bank is said to project about 4 leagues from the shore, requiring the lead to be kept going. If you do not stop at Pepery Road, after passing the bank mentioned, steer N. E. by E. and E. N. E. about 7 leagues, to anchor off Siam Bar, making proper allowance for the tides.

Siam River and Bar.

Geo. Site.

MENAM, or SIAM RIVER, falls into the sea by several branches; the land that separates them is low, and cannot be seen above 3 leagues off, but it is a little more elevated at the eastern branch, by which it may be known. This is the best navigable channel, although the bar has on it, only 8 or 9 feet at low tide, and projects about 1½ league out from the entrance; there are 17 or 18 feet on it at high water spring tides, and 19 or 20 feet in September, October, and November, when the river inundates the low country by the rains. The entrance of the river in lat. 13° 30′ N. about lon. 101° 15′ E., is about a mile wide, and the anchorage is to the southward of the bar, about 3 or 4 leagues off, in any depth thought proper; under 3 fathoms, the bottom becomes hard toward the fishing stakes.

Geo. Site of Bankok.

YUTHIA, or JUTHIA, formerly the principal city, is in lat. 14° 18′ N., about 24 leagues up the river, from whence the Siamese were driven by the Burmans in 1767; and the city of BANKOK, the present modern capital, is about 9 leagues up, built upon an island, in lat. 13° 58′ 30″ N. by several observations of the stars, and in lon. 100° 34′ E. by an eclipse of the 1st Satellite of Jupiter, corresponding with a good chronometer. The city is built on both banks of the river, but by far the largest part on the left bank. Here, the river is free from sand banks, having seldom less than 7 fathoms water close to each side, so that large vessels may be moved along its banks, with their yards hanging over the shore. Bankok is one of the largest native trading cities in Asia, and from March to June, the river is crowded with junks, not less than 100, of all sorts and descriptions; many of them of large size, trade to various ports of China, and from 50 to 60 to the various ports of the Malayan Archipelago. The country produces salt, cotton, sugar, pepper, teak, rose-wood, and many other articles. The deepest water on the bar, is to bring the entrance of the river N. ¼ W., then steer direct for it, but a vessel intending to proceed into the river, ought to procure a pilot. A little way inside, on the eastern bank, there is a fishing village and guard-house, where all vessels bound up the river land their guns, ammunition, &c. From hence, the navigation is very safe to Bankok, and the soundings regular from 6 to 9 fathoms mud.

Geo. site of Ko-si-chang Harbour.

KO-SI-CHANG HARBOUR, distant about 26 miles from the mouth of Bankok River, and bearing from it about S. E., is formed by a group of islands situated in lat. 13° 12′ N., lon. 100° 55′ E.: these consist of seven or eight in number, which are all small, excepting two of them, called by the Siamese, Ko-si-chang, and Ko Cram; the former being about 7 miles long and 3 miles broad, moderately high and hilly, and clothed with trees. Ko Cram, is about¼ of the size of the large island, with a fishing village on it; and a small white

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building or temple, stands on an eminence at the S.W. part of Ko-si-chang, erected by the Cochin-Chinese, who touch regularly here for supplies of wood and water, during their trading voyages to Siam.

The harbour, formed by the two large islands, is sheltered from the wind and sea in every direction, except to the northward, from which direction there cannot be much sea, on account of the proximity of the shoals at the head of the gulf. The best entrance into the harbour is from the northward, but there is also a passage to the southward between the islands; and as the anchorage is over a hard bottom, in many places, it will be proper for ships that touch here, to ride with chain cables. On the S.W. end of the large island, there is a fine stream of fresh water, at which a hundred casks may be filled in one day: the stream issues from the hill on which the small temple stands, and escapes to the sea in a little sandy bay, after passing through the bank of sand that lines the beach. The rise and fall of the tide is about 10 feet on the springs, and it runs strong through the harbour. The nearest part of the main is the high land of Bampesoi, distant only a few miles from the harbour.

To sail from Siam, in the N. W. monsoon.

Currents.

From Siam, ships bound to the southward, generally depart in the N. E. monsoon: if they sail for Malacca Strait before the middle of September, a tedious passage may be expected; and in such case, the coast ought to be kept aboard the whole of the way to the reef off Point Romania, in order to benefit by any favorable shifts of wind from the land, or to preserve anchorage in moderate depths, when winds and currents are adverse, which will often happen before October. When easterly winds blow strong, the current sets into the Gulf of Siam, along the western shore; at all other times, the freshes from the rivers produce an outset to S. E. or Eastward. And this current sets frequently from 20 to 30 miles per day to the eastward in the strength of the S.W. monsoon, when the entrance of the gulf is open.

Cape Liant and eastern side of the Gulf, with sailing directions.

CAPE LIANT, thought to be in about lat. 12° 34′ N., distant 17 or 18 leagues S. by E. from Siam Bar, is a projecting. headland on the East side of the gulf, having groups of islands on both sides of it, which are considered safe to approach; and the whole of the eastern coast, is fortified by an extensive chain, or groups of islands of various sizes. Cancao River, in about lat. 10° 5′ N. to the eastward of Pulo Way, was formerly a Chinese colony, and a place of some trade.

Departing from Siam Bar in the N. E. monsoon, steer a course to pass near Cape Liant and the circumjacent islands, increasing the depth gradually to 15 or 16 fathoms; from abreast of the cape, steer about S. E. by S. for Pulo Way in lat. 9° 55′ N., which are high islands, safe to approach. Proceeding from Cape Liant, the depths regularly increase over a mud bottom, to 35 and 45 fathoms in sight of Pulo Way: if these islands are not seen when in their latitude, and the depth be from 45 to 50 fathoms, haul up E. S. Eastward to get a sight of Pulo Panjang, in about lat. 9° 5′ N.,* to the westward of which, at 5 leagues distance, the depths are 28 to 30 fathoms. It is advisable to make this island, although Pulo Way has been previously seen, which is high, encompassed with several islets, and having brought it to bear about North, steer about S. by E. ½ E. for Pulo Aor, if bound to Malacca or Banca Straits. In case of a westerly current, the lead will be a sufficient guide to prevent getting near the coast, which ought not to be approached in this season to the northward of Pulo Brala; nor will it be advisable to see any land before making Pulo Timoan or Pulo Aor, unless you pass through any of the channels to the westward of these islands.

To sail from Siam, in the S.W. monsoon.

If you depart from Siam Bar in the S. W. monsoon, keep along the West side of the gulf, then work to the southward in the vicinity of the Malay Coast, if bound to the straits of

* A plan of these Islands, made lately in the ship Hammody, during a voyage to Siam, places this island In about lat. 9° 20′ N.,—and it is necessary to observe, that the geographical situations of the islands and coasts of the Gulf of Siam, are very imperfectly known.

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Banca or Malacca. If bound to China, Cochin-China, or Manila, steer to pass along the West coast of the gulf as far as Cin Point, then steer S. E. to get a sight of Pulo Panjang, attending to the currents, which generally set eastward in this season; if this island is not discernible when in its latitude, an easterly course may be steered, until it is seen.

Having passed Pulo Panjang, steer a S. E. course for Pulo Oby, distant from the former about 20 leagues, which ought be rounded on the South side at a moderate distance, on account of the ledge of rocks off it, having 17 fathoms water close to. From Pulo Panjang, in the track steering toward Pulo Oby, the water shoals from 25 to 19 and 18 fathoms near the latter; and on the N.W. side of this island, it shoals quickly from 15 to 5 fathoms, soft blue mud, mixed with gravel.

Geo. Site of Pulo Oby Watering place.

PULO OBY, in lat. 8° 25′ N., lon. 104° 54′ E. by chronometers, distant about 5 leagues nearly South, from the S.W. point of Cambodia, which bounds the entrance of Siam Gulf on the East side, is several miles in extent, and formed of different hills; but the mountain in the centre of the island, being higher than the other hills, may be discerned 15 or 16 leagues. There are a few families here, banished from the continent, who subsist on vegetables and maize, which they cultivate. A stream of fresh water issues from the top of the mountain, and descending on the North side of the island, empties itself into the sea at the landing place on that side, where a ship may conveniently fill 100 butts of water in a day; but the best anchorage during the S.W. monsoon, is on the East side of the island, opposite to a small bay, and to the northward of a small island that lies off the S. E. end of Pulo Oby. Exclusive of this small island, there is LEDGE of ROCKS bearing E. S. E.½ S. from the S.W. extremity of Pulo Oby, distant 3 or 4 miles, about 40 fathoms in length, and only the height of a ship's hull above water, with 17 fathoms within ½ a cable's length, which would be dangerous to approach in the night.

Pulo Oby False, and coast adjacent.

Tides.

PULO OBY FALSE, about 9 or 10 leagues to the N. N.W. of the former, and 5 or 6 leagues westward from the S.W. point of Cambodia, is a considerable isle, with some small ones around; and a reef projects from the S. E. end of the principal island. To the S. Eastward of the point of Cambodia, a shoal flat stretches out a great way from the coast, but there is a safe channel with from 6 to 8 or 9 fathoms, inside of Pulo Oby, and Pulo Oby False, betwixt them and the flat that fronts the coast. The tides are regular, and set strong East and West betwixt Pulo Oby and the main, except when obstructed by strong winds. In the dry season, there are junks employed carrying water from that island to the adjoining continent, where it is a scarce article at times.

To sail from Pulo Oby to Manilla.

From Pulo Oby, if bound to Manilla, steer to pass on the South side of Pulo Condore, bearing E. ¾ N. from Pulo Oby, distant 109 miles, taking care in the night to give a proper birth to the Brothers, for the westernmost is a Bare Rock, not much elevated above water. From Pulo Condore, steer to pass on the South side of Pulo Sapata, and from this island N. E. until in lat. 12° N.; being then to the northward of the shoals, steer direct for Manilla Bay. Ships crossing from the Redang Islands toward the coast of Cambodia in March, ought to keep well to the eastward if possible; for the current sets to the westward about Pulo Oby, into the gulf of Siam during that month, and the winds prevail at East and E. N. Eastward.

To approach Cambodia River, and St. James' Bay, in the S.W. monsoon.

Soundings.

Ships coming from the southward, in the S.W. monsoon, and bound to Cambodia River, River, and should endeavour to see Pulo Oby, or at least, make the coast well to the westward; those bound to Cape St. James' Bay, at the entrance of Sai-Gon River, ought to pass on the West side of Pulo Condore, for the wind sometimes hangs far to the westward. In a direct line from Pulo Brala to Pulo Oby, the depths decrease from 35 fathoms, pretty regularly to 20 fathoms when the latter is bearing about North or N. N.W. 6 to 8 leagues. If Pulo Condore is approached from S. Westward, the depths will decrease to 19 or 18 fathoms when it

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bears about N. E., distant 20 leagues; afterward, 18 and 17 fathoms regular soundings will continue, steering close up to it, on this bearing.

Coast of Cambodia, with sailing directions to the river.

After rounding Pulo Oby, if bound for Cambodia River, haul to the northward until near the coast, then proceed along it to the N. Eastward, keeping soundings from 8 to 10 fathoms. All the coast of Cambodia, from the S.W. point to the N. E. extremity, is very low land, inundated by the sea at times; and in most parts, the trees are just discerned nearly level with the water's edge, from the deck of a large ship, at the distance of 3½ or 4 leagues. The shoal banks which line the coast, project out 3 or 4 leagues from it in some places, having 2¼ and 3 fathoms sand on them, and 6 to 7 fathoms near their edges. The soundings are very regular in the offing, and decrease gradually in depth, until the edges of the shore banks are approached; then from 9 or 8 fathoms, the water shoals suddenly in some places;* the bottom near the edges of the banks, and also a considerable way to seaward, is mostly fine sand and ouze.

As the coast is very low, without any conspicuous marks, it becomes necessary for a vessel bound to Cambodia River, to borrow on the edges of the banks sometimes to 5, or even to 4 fathoms; but in doing so, great caution is requisite in a vessel of considerable burthen. Coasting along in 5 or 6 fathoms, the entrance of a river may be seen, where the trees appear higher than in other parts of the coast; from which Cambodia River bears about E.N.E. 20 or 22 leagues. Steering from hence N. N. Eastward in the direction of the coast, the mouth of another river will be discerned; and the coast there, takes an easterly direction as far as the river Cambodia.

As the coast here, is very low, destitute of any particular mark, it must be approached pretty close to observe its bearing, and when it changes from East to N. Eastward, the entrance of Cambodia River will be abreast.

Cambodia River and the adjoining coast.

CAMBODIA RIVER, disembogues into the sea by three principal branches; the westernmost being the proper one for ships, its entrance in about lat. 9° 34′ N., and 18 leagues; N. by W. from Pulo Condore. The sands projecting a considerable way to seaward, render the navigation into the river difficult, particularly as they are liable to shift; it is therefore, prudent, to anchor in 4 or 5 fathoms outside, until a pilot can be procured, if you intend to proceed over the bar, the depth on which, is said to be 14 to 18 feet hard sand, at high water spring tides.† Cambodia city or town, is nearly 80 leagues up the river, the trade to which, has been long discontinued by Europeans, and since the country became subject to the government of Cochin-China, the trade of Cambodia has been transferred to Sai-Gon.

From the western branch of Cambodia River, the coast stretches N. Eastward to the next branch, which is narrow, and called the Eastern Channel; thence northward to the third branch, called the Japanese Channel, off which lies a small island, called Crab Island. The coast about the mouths of Cambodia River, may be approached to 6 or 7 fathoms; the soundings are very regular, and a sufficient guide in the night, the bottom being uniformly soft. Betwixt Crab Island and Cape St. James, the coast continues low, forming a great concavity, with a shoal bank lining it, and projecting a great way out from the low islands which separate the different mouths of Sai-Gon River.

Geo. Site of Pulo Condore.

Great Bay.

PULO CONDORE (the centre) is in lat. 8° 40′ N., lon. 106° 42′ E. by mean of many observations: by chronometers, I made it 2° 7½′ East of Pulo Aor, and Capt. Shepherdson,

* In the Anna, from China, working along this coast, in September, 1803, we had 9½ and 9 fathoms regular soundings for upward of an hour, steering W. N.W. and at noon observed in lat. 8° 58′ N. the entrance of a river, visible from the poop, bearing W. ¾ N., the low coast nearly level with the horizon from the deck, had then from 9 to 8 fathoms at a cast, the helm was immediately put down, and had 7½ fathoms in the stays.

† The Company's ships, which traded to Cambodia in the 16th century, frequently got aground in the river, and it appears always to have been an intricate navigation for large ships.

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made it 7° 2′ West from Grand Ladrone by chronometer,* The principal island of the group, under this name, is about 3 leagues in length N. E. and S.W., from 2 to 4 miles in breadth, encompassed by several islands much smaller, which are mostly all high, and covered with trees. The large island is formed of a ridge of high mountains,† and inhabited by people from Cambodia and Cochin-China, who continue tributary to that government; they reside in a village on the S. E. side of the island, where the Great Bay‡ is situated. This bay is fronted by several islands to the South and eastward, with soundings in it from 6 to 14 fathoms, but is rather exposed to easterly winds. There are three passages into it, that betwixt the South point of Condore and the small isles adjacent, is very narrow; that betwixt the East end of Condore and the islands opposite, has the deepest water; the other, fronting the bay on the S. E, side, is widest, with 4, 5, 6, and 7 fathoms water; and in entering it, the White Button and island on the N. E. side, should be approached, for there, the deepest water is found. The village is on a plain at the bottom of the bay, and the inhabitants subsist chiefly on yams, pumpkins, fruits, and fish: the chief of the village has instructions from the King of Cochin-China, to furnish pilots to ships that touch there, and are bound to Cape St. James' Bay.

and Harbour.

The harbour of Pulo Condore, is formed betwixt the West end of the principal island, and an adjoining high island, called sometimes Little Condore, the S. E. point of which nearly joins to the principal one, but they are separated about ½ a league to the northward, at which part is the entrance of the harbour: here, the depths are 10 and 9 fathoms mud, decreasing gradually to 5, 4, and 3 fathoms near the flat that occupies the bottom of the harbour, which is dry at low water. This harbour is well sheltered by the surrounding hills, and fresh water may be procured on the East side at a small bay, that on the western shore being brackish; the tide rises 3 or 4 feet, high water at 3 hours on full and change of the moon. On the North side of the entrance, there are some islands with a passage between the outermost and the others: near 1 league E. N. E. from the N. E. end of Pulo Condore, there is a barren white rock. These islands abound with timber, but there are no articles of trade to be procured: the soil being generally dry and unfruitful, the country unhealthy, and abounding with reptiles, there is no inducement for strangers to visit this place; consequently, few ships touch here. About 15 leagues S. E. from Pulo Condore, the variation was 1° 40′ Easterly in 1805, and it appears to be at present from 1° to 2° Easterly, all over the China Sea.

Brothers.

BROTHERS, are two small islands, about 2½ or 3 miles from each other, and are on the same line, bearing E. N. E. ¾ N. and opposite. The westernmost is a Barren Rock, (not more conspicuous than Pedro Branco at the entrance of Singapore Strait) having high breakers on its eastern side, during blowing weather. The Easternmost Brother is a high round islet, with trees on its summit, bearing W. by S. from the centre of Pulo Condore, distant 8 leagues.

Soundings around these islands.

SOUNDINGS, in a direct line from the Brothers toward Pulo Oby, are mostly 14 and 15 fathoms, very regular; from 13 fathoms close to the Brothers on the inside, shoaling gradually toward the coast of Cambodia; 17 or 18 fathoms about 4 leagues outside of the Brothers; 13 and 12 fathoms within 2 miles of them on the East and N. E. sides, deepening to 17 fathoms close to Pulo Condore. When Pulo Condore bears N. by E. and North about 10 leagues, the soundings are 19 and 18 fathoms; when N.W. 7 or 8 leagues, 20 to 21 fa-

* Capt. Ross, in the Company's surveying ship, Discovery, made Pulo Condore 2° 3′ East of Pulo Aor, and 7° 4¾′ W. of Grand Ladrone, by good chronometers.

† The highest part of Pulo Condore is about 1800 feet above the level of the sea, by geometrical computations, for we saw it from the quarter-deck of the Anna, when 50 miles distant, just visible above the horizon.

‡ The English settled, and built a fort here in 1702; and a few years afterward, were mostly all cut off in the night, by Macassar soldiers in their employ.

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thoms; West 12 leagues, 24 fathoms; West 20 leagues, 27 fathoms; and there seems to be soundings as far to the eastward, as to touch an imaginary line drawn from Pulo Sapata to the Natunas. Rounding Pulo Condore on the South and S. E. sides within 2 to 3 miles distance, we carried regularly 17 fathoms; at the same distance from the East end of it, had 18 fathoms. From 18 fathoms near the White Rock off the N. E. end of Pulo Condore, the soundings continue between 19 and 17 fathoms in a direct line to Cape St. James, until that headland is approached. From Pulo Condore steering direct for the Great Catwick, the depths increase very slowly until within 12 or 15 leagues of the latter, then rather quicker from 30 or 34, to 45 and 50 fathoms near the Catwiek.

Although the soundings are usually very regular around Pulo Condore, to a great distance in every direction, yet there appear to be some coral banks to the N. Eastward, in the track toward the coast of Tsiompa, and one to the southward, probably none of them are covered with less than 5 or 6 fathoms water.

Geo. Site of Charlotte's Bank.

CHARLOTTE'S BANK, is the first of these, situated in lat. 7° 11′ North, lon. 107° 36′ East, or 54 miles East of Palo Condore, by chronometer, which Captain Askwith, got upon in the Charlotte, September 20th, 1807, returning from China to Bombay: they passed within 6 leagues of Palo Condore, on the preceding day, and got upon the bank at 10 A. M.; the least water found on it was ¼ less 5 fathoms, coral rock, and 40 fathoms close to.

"Steering South, under close reefs, blowing a strong gale at W. S.W., at 10 A. M. coral rocks were perceived under the ship; the helm was immediately put a-weather, to ware, and had ¼ less 5 fathoms with the deep sea lead, when before the wind. In coming to the wind on the other tack, there was so little water apparently under the bow, that I expected the ship would have struck in pitching: when round, had 8 fathoms; and from the fore-yard, a small spot appeared to the southward, with less water. From the poop, this coral bank appeared to extend about 2½ miles to the southward, and to the eastward 1½ mile; in standing to the N.W., deepened fast to 40 fathoms."

December 15th, 1813, Capt. Ross, remained 16 hours at anchor on this bank, while the boats were sounding over it, which was found to extend about 3 miles East and West, and 1½ mile North and South, broadest at the western part: the least depth found, was 6¼ fathoms, on the N.W. point, where the water is discoloured. The lat of the bank observed at anchor was 7° 5′ 25″ N., lon. 107° 39′ E., or 3° 2¾′ East from the East point of Pulo Aor by chronometers. This bank will be avoided, by keeping under 30 fathoms water when passing its parallel. There is a bank of hard ground in lat. 7° 0′ N., lon. 107° 29′ E. by mean of four chronometers, on which Capt. F. Pellew, in H. M. S. Phæton had 12 and 14 fathoms, steering N. E. by N. 2 miles; probably the Charlotte's Bank.

Laurel's Banks.

LAUREL'S BANKS, two in number, were sounded upon by Captain Cheminant, in the ship Laurel, on his passage to China, in April, 1787; they had 9 fathoms coral rocks on the western part of one of these banks, which was the least water; 22 to 24 fathoms near its edge, and he made it in lat. 9° 30′ N. A few days before, they shoaled suddenly from 29 and 28, to 17 fathoms rocks on the N.W. edge of another bank, in lat. 9° 27′ N. computed from noon observation, probably part of the former bank. To the N. N. Westward of these banks, in about lat. 10° 4′ N. they shoaled suddenly from 21 and 20, to 13 and 12 fathoms rocks, upon another bank. As the weather was unfavorable, and the ship beating against a N. E. wind, the true situations of these banks could not be ascertained, but they lie S. Eastward from Cape St. James; and it is possible, that the southernmost bank was the Royal Bishop's Shoal, as the latitude when the ship got upon it, was not correctly known.

Royal Bishop's Bank.

Geo. Site.

ROYAL BISHOP'S BANK, or SHOAL, is a rocky bank of considerable extent; the soundings near its edges are 32 and 34 fathoms to the S. E. and southward, 26 and 24 fa-

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thoms to the S. W., and 29 or 30 fathoms to the N. Westward: from 10 to 17 fathoms rocky bottom, are the common depths found upon it, and the least water is thought to be 7 or 8 fathoms. The Gunjavar got on it at noon in lat. 9° 48′ N., and 40½ miles West from Pulo Sapata, by chronometer; the Murad-Bux, was on its southern part in lat. 9° 40′ N. and 1° 39′ E. from Pulo Condore, by chronometer; it therefore appears to be about 3 leagues in length North and South, and in lon. 108° 21½′ E., bearing W. S.W. from Pulo Sapata, distant 44 miles.

It was probably upon the western edge of this bank, that the ship, Udney, got suddenly into shoal soundings at midnight, May 8th, 1809, when bound from Bengal to Manilla. She was steering N. Eastward with a light easterly breeze, in soundings from 24 to 26 fathoms, and from this depth (the lead being hove only once every hour) had 7 fathoms, tacked immediately, the ship just having steerage way; next cast had 11 fathoms, then 14 fathoms coral, soon after 27 and 28 fathoms. When she tacked in 7 fathoms, her situation by computation from the preceding and following noon observations, was in lat. 9° 47½′ N., lon. 108° 8′ E. by chronometer.

SAILING DIRECTIONS for the COAST of TSIOMPA; PULO CEICER DE MER, PULO SAPATA, CATWICKS, contiguous CHANNELS, and DANGERS.

Geo. Site of Cape St. James.

CAPE ST. JAMES, in lat. 10° 16′ 41″ N., lon. 107° 4′ 15″ E., or 1° 58′ 15″ West* from Pulo Sapata by chronometers, bearing from Pulo Condore N. 14° E., distant 33 leagues, forms the eastern boundary of the bay and channel leading to Sai-Gon River. It is the first high land seen in coming from S. Westward, the whole of the coast from hence to the gulf of Siam, being very low drowned land: the mountain that forms the cape is intersected by low gaps, and appears like three islands when first seen at the distance of 10 or 11 leagues; but on a near approach, the low land that forms these divisions, is perceived.

To approach it and sail into the bay.

Anchorage.

When bound to Cape St. James Bay, in the S.W. monsoon, pass to the westward of Pulo Condore, having previously made allowance for a current setting out of the gulf of Siam, whilst crossing the entrance of that gulf. When the body of Pulo Condore is bearing about South, steer North, or N. ½ W. if an easterly current prevail, which will soon-bring you on the edge of the bank that fronts the mouths of Cambodia River, and extends to the entrance of Sai-Gon River. Steer then northward along the edge of the hank, keeping in 8 or 9, to 11 or 12 fathoms: if the water shoal under 7 or 8 fathoms, haul to the eastward, and it will immediately deepen, the soundings being regular on the edge of the bank. When Cape St. James is approached within 6 or 7 miles, with the wind westerly, steer along the edge of the bank in 7 to 9 fathoms, until the cape bear about N. E. then stand for it, and keep within 1½ or 1 mile of the land, in proceeding to the anchorage in the bay. About 4 or 5 miles South from the pitch of the Cape, there is a Small Bank on which Captain Purefoy had 3 fathoms hard ground; the preceding track to the westward of it, has been recommended with a scant wind, to prevent getting to leeward of the cape. With a S.W. or Southerly wind, pass to the eastward of the Small Bank, by bringing the cape to bear N. N.W. when 3 or 4 leagues distant, and steer for it on that bearing; when it is approached, keep near the western shore of the cape, which is bold to, and safe to borrow upon, from the pitch of the

* Capt. Ross made it in this position, by correct observations taken on shore; Capt. C. Mackintosh made it a few miles more easterly.

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cape to the low green valley with cocoa-nut trees, at the East pert of the bay of Cape St. James; ships may anchor in from 5½ to 7 fathoms good holding ground, with the village bearing E. S. E. The bottom in the channel is mud, but hard upon the edge of the bank that bounds its western side; the water also shoals suddenly on this bank in some places, it ought, therefore, not to be borrowed upon: with the cape E. by N. ½ N., and the village N. E. ½ E., there is a spot of 6 to 4 fathoms, irregular soundings. There is no good water to be got at the village; ships in want, must send to Gagneray River for it, round the point about 3½ miles to the northward.

Sai Gon River,

Geo. Site of the city.

Pilots may be got at the village, when ships intend to proceed up Sai-Gon River, the entrance of which, is about 5 miles W. N. Westward from Gagneray Point: and it is an excellent river, with depth sufficient for ships of any description. The city of Sai-Gon is in lat. 10° 50′ N., lon. 106° 43′ E. where the King of Cochin-China has a foundry for casting cannon for his ships, &c.; this being his grand marine depot, where the vessels of war are built, the country abounding with timber, and mostly every necessary article for building. The Portuguese have carried on a constant trade from Macao to this place for many years; and some English ships have endeavoured to trade here and at other parts of Cochin-China, without deriving much advantage thereby.

Cape St. James Bay, is called Vung-tau by the natives; the tide here rises 8 feet perpendicular, and runs pretty strong on the springs, high water at 11 hours on full and change of the moon. Although the cape is steep on the West side, there is a small islet close to it on the S. E. side; and with the cape bearing between N.W. by W. and W. N.W. it should not be approached nearer than 2 or 3 miles, for there are 5 fathoms hard ground about 1 or 1¼ mile from it, with these bearings.

Cape Tiwoane coast

CAPE TIWOANE, bearing E. by N. ¾ N. from Cape St. James, distant about 13 miles, is high, and the termination of a chain of hills that stretches to the northward; the coast is low close to the sea, and in the middle of a flat sandy shore, betwixt these capes, lies the cent entrance of Cua-lop River, which stretches inland, and unites with Gagneray Bay, opposite to the entrance of Sai-Gon River. Cua-lop River is navigable only by boats or small vessels drawing 6 feet water. In passing along this part of the coast, do not come under 10 fathoms, for the water shoals suddenly to 6 fathoms sand, with Cape St. James W. by N. ¼ N., Cape Tiwoane N. E. ½ N. to N. E. ¾ N., distant 7 miles, and Point Bakeck N. E. by E. You may occasionally anchor on either side of Cape Tiwoane, in 7 fathoms water.

Point Bakeck and the bank fronting it,

with sailing directions.

Cow Island.

POINT BAKECK, is of middling height, and bears from Cape Tiwoane about E.N. E. ½ N., distant 19 miles, the coast between them forming a considerable bay, in which there is a small river called Chitram; from the entrance of this river to Point Bakeck, a dangerous bank projects 4 or 5 miles from the shore, having only 2 or 3 fathoms on its southern edge in some places, and overfalls from 7 to 3 fathoms farther in, toward the shore. To avoid this bank, after passing Cape Tiwoane at 4 or 5 miles distance, steer about E. N. E. to keep 6 or 7 miles off shore, in soundings 9 to 11 fathoms, until Point Bakeck bear about North. There are some overfalls in this track, particularly near the edge of the bank, the water shoals suddenly over a hard bottom; but out in 10 or 11 fathoms, the bottom is generally soft, and the soundings pretty regular. When Point Bakeck bears N. by W. or N. by W. ½ W. about 6 miles distant, and being in 10 or 11 fathoms, steer N. E. for Cow Island, which bears from that point E.37° N., distant 17 miles: it is a small round island in lat. 10° 39′ N., with trees upon its summit, and is safe to approach, the depths decreasing regularly towards it. On the East side of Point Bakeck, there are also good soundings.

Britto's Bank.

Geo. Site.

BRITTO'S BANK, named after a Portuguese Captain, who suffered shipwreck upon it, was very imperfectly known, until Capt. Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, examined it,

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March 29th and 30th, 1817, and which he describes as follows. Discovery, March 29th, at 50 minutes past noon, with Cow Island bearing N. 4¾° E., having shoaled at a cast from 12 to 9 fathoms sand, and judging we were near Britto's Shoal, anchored, and sent the boats to sound in a N. E. direction, where they deepened again into 11 and 12 fathoms; but on proceeding more to the eastward, the small cutter had 3 fathoms on a shoal bearing from the ship N. 58½° E., distant about 3 miles. The Investigator had been beating about to the southward of our anchorage, and never had less than 11 fathoms water. At 3 P. M. weighed, and stood to the N. E. until we thought ourselves abreast of the West end of the shoal, then anchored in 11 fathoms on a fine sandy bottom, with Cow Island bearing by azimuth compass N. 11° 42′ W.; true bearing 9° 43′ W., a rock which appears detached, and forms the extreme of Point Kega bore true N. 41° 44′ E., the small cutter in 2 fathoms about 1 mile from the ship bore S. 6½° E., another boat in 2 fathoms about 1¼ mile distant bore S. 17¾° E. On examining the shoal in the boat, it was found to extend 1¼ mile in length E. N. E. and W. S.W., and its breadth does not exceed ⅓ of a mile. The usual depths on it, are 4 or 5 fathoms, and only upon a large patch of rocks about the middle of the shoal, is there so little as 2 fathoms; from which shoalest part Cow Island bears by compass N. 11° 45′ W. By careful observations taken on board the ship at anchor, made the lat. 10° 31′ 27″ N., and the chronometers measured 1° 13′ 40″ West from Pulo Sapata to our anchorage, which places the centre of the shoal in lat. 10° 30′ 42″ N., lon. 107° 49′ E. In sounding well in every direction near the shoal, found the depth about ½ a mile all round it, to be from 7 to 9 fathoms, increasing to 15 fathoms about 1½ mile to the eastward, and to 17 fathoms about 3½ miles in the same direction. The Investigator was employed beating round the shoal to the South and eastward, in order to be certain that no other patches did exist.

To sail on the outside of it,

To avoid Britto's Bank, on the outside, keep 5 leagues from the coast when abreast of the bank, and do not come under 16 or 17 fathoms; but at that distance from the coast, it will be sometimes difficult to see land marks, to know when clear of the bank; therefore, vessels bound from Cape St. James Bay along the coast, or those approaching that bay from the eastward, may proceed through the inside channel, but persons unacquainted, ought only to do so, with proper precaution in day-light.

and through the Inner Channel.

Having passed Point Bakeck at 6 miles distance, steer N. E. as before mentioned, to proceed inside of Britto's Bank; the best track is to keep in mid-channel, in soundings from 8 to 9 or 10 fathoms, and pass Cow Island at 3 to 5 miles distance. The depths decrease toward Cow Island and the main, to 7 and 6 fathoms; and from 9 fathoms in mid-channel, they increase to 11 or 12, and usually shoal again to 9 or 10 fathoms close to the edge of Britto's Bank.

Geo. Site of Point Ke-ga,

The adjacent coast.

Mount Taicou,

POINT KE-GA, in lat. 10° 41½′ N., lon. 108° 4′ E., bearing from Cow Island E. by N. about 11 or 12 miles, projects a long way out, by which a great bay is formed on each side: this point, resembles an island when viewed at a distance, being joined to the main by a low narrow causeway, formed of a rocky mass of singular appearance, which has the aspect of a city in ruins. The point is safe to approach, but it must be kept to the northward of East, in coming from Cow Island toward it, on account of a bank projecting from a village on this side. In the bay betwixt Point Bakeck and Point Ke-ga, the land is low and woody in some parts near the sea, with several small rivers: inland, the country is high, and the regular sloping mountain, called TAICOU, in lat. 10° 45′ N., stands directly over Point Ke-ga, bearing from it N.W. ½ N., and the Point is formed by the foot of this beautiful mountain, which is visible a great way from seaward, being the most conspicuous land in this part of the coast, and detached from any other high land.

Point vinay.

Tiger Island.

POINT VINAY, bearing from Point Ke-ga, N. E. ½ E., 19 miles distant, is encompassed by a small bank on the West side, inside of which, there is good anchorage in 5 fa-

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thoms, opposite to a fishing village in the small bay formed on the West side of the point. The Bay of Phuiay, is formed by the land trending northward from Point Ke-ga to Phuiay River, and from thence eastward to Point Vinay; abreast of this river, at a considerable distance from the shore, there is anchorage in 5 or 6 fathoms, and the entrance of the river may be known by an islet formed of a mass of rocks, at a considerable distance from it. Tiger Island, is separated from the shore on the East side of Point Vinay, only by a passage for small boats, being situated close to the point; although covered with birds' dung, it is not conspicuous, and only perceived when a ship is well in with the shore. The coast hereabout, is speckled with alternate patches of sand and verdure.

Mui-Guio.

MUI-GUIO, or LITTLE CAPE, bearing N. E. ¾ E. from Point Vinay, distant about 16 miles, forms the South point of the Bay of Phanry, and is known by a high steep sand hill close to the sea; between these points, the coast is moderately elevated and steep to seaward, having 10 and 11 fathoms water near it. From Mui-guio, the coast stretches nearly North to the entrance of Phanry River, and is of a reddish colour: a vessel may anchor in 6 fathoms about a league off shore, but the bar of the river is only navigable by boats, on the flood tide. This is a large fishing village, whose numerous boats* are seen fishing in the offing, sometimes at a considerable distance from the shore.

Point Lagan.

POINT LAGAN, situated in lat. 11° 9′ N., and bearing E. 16° N. from Mui-Guio, distant about 5 leagues, is a narrow and low neck of land, projecting a considerable way into the sea; on the West side, there is a small bay with a fishing village, where there is good anchorage for small vessels. There is also a small village to the northward of Point Lagan, where vessels may anchor in 5 or 6 fathoms.

Geo. Site of Pulo Ceicer de Terre,

PULO CEICER DE TERRE, called HON-CAU by the natives, distant about 8 or 9 miles E. 30° N. from Point Lagan, is in lat. 11° 13′ N., lon. 108° 48′ E., or 4° 56′ West from Grand Ladrone, and 4° 13½′ East from Pulo Aor by chronometers; this is a low island extending nearly E. N. E. and W. S.W., having near its centre, a mass of rocks higher than the other parts, which is discernible about 5 leagues from the deck of a large ship. When first seen, it appears like a small peak or spire, and sometimes like a boat's sail; the whole of the island is rocky and barren, but a little grass or green moss, may be perceived on the flat part. The two low extremities of the island are encompassed with rocks, which project out above and below water to a considerable distance; there are also some rocks above water on the South side, but as the danger is generally visible, the island may be approached in the day within 2½ or 3 miles. In the night, it ought not to be approached so close, for then, the island cannot be perceived unless it be very near.

adjacent coast.

Bank of Breda.

The coast behind this island, forms a deep and extensive bay, stretching from Point Lagan to the land of Cape Padaran; and the High Land of CEICER, to the N.W. and Northward of the island, is very mountainous close to the sea. Betwixt Pulo Ceicer de Terre and the N. E. side of the bay, opposite to the Gap of Padaran, lies the Bank of Breda, having 4 fathoms coral rocks on its eastern edge, and there is said to be much less water to the westward; it is not in the way of ships passing outside of Pulo Ceicer de Terre, unless with a working wind, they stand far into the bay betwixt that island and the land of Padaran. Inside of the island, there is a channel with soundings of 5, 6, and 7 fathoms, between it and the bank mentioned above, which is sometimes frequented by the native coasting vessels.

Geo. Site of Cape Padaran.

CAPE PADARAN, called MUI-DIN by the natives, in lat. 11° 21′ N., lon.109° 0′ E; or 4° 44′ West from Grand Ladrone by chronometers, bears about N. E. ¾ E. from Pulo

* These boats, and others of Cochin-China, sail fast, and have great stability, being safe in a high sea; their sails are of a triangular form, constructed of light mats.

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Gap in the land.

Ceicer de Terre, distant 5 leagues. It is a piece of high land, steep and convex to seaward, and forms the projecting part of the continent to the S. E. The high land of Padaran, is joined to the adjacent mountain of Ceicer by a neck of low level land, only visible when near the shore on the South side of the cape, but seldom seen at the distance which ships generally pass: this gives the land of Cape Padaran an isolated appearance when approached from S. Westward, and it has a similar aspect in coming from the northward. The neck of low land forms a very deep gap between the land of Padaran and the mountain to the westward, and this gap or chasm in the land, is generally called the GAP of PADARAN, and by the natives, CANA. It is very conspicuous at a great distance, and serves as a mark to avoid Holland's Bank, and to point out the direction of Pulo Ceicer de Terre, this island being on with the Gap bearing from N. by E. ¼ E. to N. by E. ½ E.

Soundings.

SOUNDINGS do not extend far out from Cape Padaran, it being a steep headland, bold to approach, having from 25 to 30 fathoms very near the shore: when it bore W. by N. ¼ N., distant 2 miles, and Pulo Ceicer de Terre W. by S. ¾ S., we had no ground at 40 fathoms; with the Cape N. by E. ¾ E., and Pulo Ceicer de Terre W. ¼ S., we had ground 25 fathoms, about 2 miles off the bluff land of Padaran. About half way betwixt the Cape and Pulo Ceicer de Terre, the depths begin to decrease, to 20, 17, and 14 fathoms irregular soundings, when within 4 or 5 miles of the island. The soundings about Pulo Ceicer de Terre, being in general irregular, are not always a sufficient guide in the night, to shew the proximity of the island; for although near it, the water shoals to 9, 8, or 7 fathoms, there are also overfalls from 17, to 10 and 8 fathoms in some places, at the distance of 2, 3, or 4 leagues to the southward of the island. When it bears North about 4 leagues, there are overfalls from 18 to 12 fathoms, and the depths are very irregular with it bearing between North and N. by E.: the Althea got on a bank of 8, 7, and 6½ fathoms, with Ceicer de Terre bearing N. by E. ½ E. just in sight from the deck, and Point Lagan, N. by W. ¼ W. A little farther to the westward, the soundings become more regular, decreasing in depth gradually toward the coast, and increasing to 23 or 24 fathoms near Holland's Bank. The channel bounded by this bank in the offing, and by the coast of Pulo Ceicer de Terre on the inside, is 7 leagues wide; ships working through it in the night, ought not to stand farther out than 22 or 20 fathoms, for the depths close to the edge of Holland's Bank, are from 23 or 24, to 25 or 26 fathoms in some places.

Geo. Site of Holland's Bank.

HOLLAND'S BANK, was examined by Capt. Ross, in April, 1817, and is thus described in his journal. Discovery, April 1st, after having crossed over the Holland's Bank twice, anchored on its southern extremity in 8 fathoms, and observed the lat. 10° 37′ 15″ N., the chronometers placing us at the same time, 51 miles East of Britto's Shoal, and 22¾ miles West from Pulo Sapata, or in bon. 108° 40′ E., from whence the S. Western Hillock on Pulo Ceicer de Mer bore S. 77¾° E., distant 15⅓ miles; and the Peaked Rock bore N. 87¼° E., distant* 12 miles. After weighing, steered over the bank N. E. by N., and by the log found its length to be 3¼ miles in that direction: When the S. Western Hill of Pulo Ceicer de Mer bore from S. 64° to S. 66° W., we passed over the shoalest ridge in 4 fathoms, but in the morning had 3¾, and 3½ fathoms on the same part: when the S. Western Hill bore S. 58° E., we began to deepen off the shoal to the northward into 16 fathoms.

Dangerous.

If Pulo Ceicer de Mer is not brought to the eastward of S. E., it appears that a ship in steering towards it with these bearings, would clear the northern extremity of Holland's Bank. The western part is very dangerous for large ships, when the centre of Pulo Ceicer de Mer bears between E. by S. and E. S. E., about 5 or 6 leagues distant, and the low part of the island that unites the two hills, just visible from the deck of a large ship, the elevation of the

* The distances were obtained, from a base line measured by sound between the two vessels 4 miles apart, the Investigator at anchor in 24 fathoms water, bearing from the Discovery N.16° 40′ W.

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eye being about 22 feet. The soundings close to this part of the bank, are 23 and 24 fathoms; and by standing on the edge of it, when under 20 fathoms, they decrease in a few cables lengths, to 10, 6, and 3½ fathoms rocks, in several places. If, however, the lead be attended to, and hove quick, it will point out the edge of the bank, before a ship get into danger; and this seems to hold good, in the approach to the bank on both sides.

The fleet from China, in January, 1805, by steering too much southerly from Cape Padaran, got on the western part of Holland's Bank, and the Canton, Glatton, and H. M. S. Grampus struck, although at a considerable distance from each other; the latter ship drawing 20 feet, struck hard several times, had 22 feet water by the lead, and was lifted over the rocky pyramids by the swell. These ships struck, in lat. 10° 38′ to 10° 41′ N., the Gap of Padaran bearing N. 16° E., the sand hill on Mui-guio about N. N.W., Mount Taicou about W. by N. ½ N., and the centre of Pulo Ceicer de Mer E. by S. ¼ S. from the southernmost ship, and E. S. E. from the northernmost, estimated distance 5½, 6, or 6½ leagues, the low part of that island which joins the two hills, plain in sight from the quarter deck.

Directions to avoid it,

To avoid the western part of Holland's Bank in clear weather, do not rise Pulo Ceicer de Mer more than to have the summits of the two hills visible from the poop of a large ship, when the island is bearing betwixt E. ½ S. and S. E.; for if the low part of the island between the hills, be in sight from the poop bearing from E. by S. to E. S. E., you will be near the edge of the bank.

and to sail through the channel inside, and along the coast.

When bound to China, by the Inner Passage, steer from Pulo Aor to pass close on the East side of Pulo Condore; from thence, a N. E. by N. course will carry you outside of Britto's Bank, and in the fair channel between Holland's Bank and the coast, if there be no lateral current. The best guide in the night, is not to approach the coast under 16 or 17 fathoms until certain of being to the eastward of Britto's Bank, nor to deepen above 20 or 21 fathoms toward the western part of Holland's Bank; the fair track betwixt these banks, and between the latter and the coast, being from 17 to 20 fathoms, until irregular soundings are got in the channel to the southward of Pulo Ceicer de Terre, which have been described above.

Geo. Site of Pulo Ceicer de Mer,

rocky islet mear it,

PULO CEICER DE MER, bears from Pulo Ceicer de Terre S. 7° E. distant 41 miles, its centre being in lat. 10° 32½′ N. lon. 108° 53′ E., and it is 4 or 5 miles in extent nearly N. E. and S.W. There are two small hills which form its extremities, one of them sloping, the other conical; and as these are discerned before the level land in the centre of the island, which unites the hills, they appear sometimes like separate islands when first seen in clear weather, about 8 leagues distance from the deck of a large ship. Some rocks, with a reef, project about a mile from the North, and South-east parts of the island; and a Rocky Islet high above water, lies about 4 or 5 miles off its N. Western part, which may be seen at 4 leagues distance. This island is easy of access on the West side, where a ship may anchor occasionally; it is well cultivated, and inhabited principally by fishermen, who pay an annual tribute in salt fish and birds' nests, to the King of Cochin-China. The soundings extend a very little way to the eastward of the island.

contiguous channel.

The channel between Pulo Ceicer de Mer and Holland's Bank, is from 3 to 4 leagues wide, and appears to be safe: several ships in passing through it, have found the soundings irregular, from 12 to 9 and 8 fathoms rocky, when they borrowed on the edge of Holland's Bank; but on hauling toward the island, they always got into more regular depths of 18, 20, and 24 fathoms; the Milford had from 24 to 26 fathoms, in passing on the West side of the rocky islet, about 2 or 3 miles distance. The passage betwixt this islet and Pulo Ceicer de Mer seems also safe, for the American ship Devotion, went through it in 1803, and saw no appearance of danger. To the northward of the island, the depths increase to 35 fathoms, and decrease to 17 fathoms when it is just visible from the deck bearing about S. S. E.

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Geo. Site of Pulo Sapata.

PULO SAPATA, or SHOE ISLAND, bearing from the centre of Pulo Ceicer de Mer about S. 18° E., distant 33 miles, is in lat. 10° 0′ N.,* lon. 109° 2½′ E. or 4° 28′ E. of Pulo Aor, 4° 4½′ West of Grand Ladrone, and 22 miles West from Cape Varela on the coast of Cochin-China, by mean of many excellent chronometers.

It is the easternmost of the three islands that go by the name of Catwicks, and may be seen 10 leagues from the deck of a large ship: being apparently an high inaccessible barren rock, forming a receptacle for numerous birds. When viewed in some directions, it resembles a shoe, at other bearings it seems a large square column, and when bearing to the westward it assumes the form of a pyramid. Ships generally endeavour to make this island, or to pass within 6 or 8 leagues of the East side of it, in proceeding to, or from Manilla, or to China by the outer passage. With Pulo Sapata bearing W. 8° N. distant ¾ of a mile, the Discovery had 35 fathoms, and with it bearing South ¾ of a mile, she had 31 fathoms sand and coral.

Little Catwick.

PYRAMID, or LITTLE CATWICK, situated about 2 miles N.W. by W. from Pulo Sapata, is a small barren rocky isle, terminating in a peak at the summit, and may be seen about 7 leagues: a reef was thought to front it, until Capt. Ross, examined this, and the adjacent islands and dangers, in March and April, 1817, who could not perceive any danger near to the Little Catwick, nor in the channel between it and Pulo Sapata; as will be observed by the following account, taken from the journal of the surveying ship Discovery.

Channel between it and Pulo Sapata.

March 27th, a little past noon, having Pulo Sapata bearing South about ¾ of a mile, passed between it and the Little Catwick, and sent the Investigator to examine the north side of the latter. At 50 minutes past noon, we were in 65 fathoms water in mid-channel between Pulo Sapata and the Little Catwick, without any appearance of danger whatever; when the latter bore N. by E. about 1 mile distant, we steered N. N.W. to pass its west end, and fell in with the Investigator coming close round its northern side, without perceiving any danger extend from the Catwick.

Until this examination of the passage between Pulo Sapata and the Little Catwick, by Capt. Ross, it was not known to be safe, although known imperfectly to exist, as several ships have passed through it in the night, when returning from China in dark blowing weather: they had discovered themselves, at such times, either close to Pulo Sapata or the Little Cat-wick, or in the passage between these islands, and were necessitated to run through, often uncertain of their situation.†

Although this passage seems to be safe with a commanding wind, it ought not to be adopted but in a case of emergency, for it is rather contracted, and the currents are strong and very irregular about these islands.

Ships passing here in the night, during the N. E. monsoon, ought to make proper allowance for a S. Westerly current, which is liable to deceive, and carry them down upon the islands, particularly if the wind is strong at the time.

Great Catwick;

Contiguous channels.

ROUND ISLAND, or GREAT CATWICK, in lat. 10° 6′ N. bearing W. N.W. N ¼ from Pulo Sapata, distant about 3½ leagues, and nearly South from Pulo Ceicer de Mer, about 9 leagues, is a high barren island of round convex form, nearly of the same size and height as Pulo Sapata, may be seen about 9 leagues, and thought to be steep to. The Chan-

* Capt. Ross made it in lat. 9° 59½′ N., lon. 109° 3½′ E.

† The ships hereafter named, passed through this channel in the night. The ships Seton and Surprise, at midnight, November 8th, 1796, running under the Goose Wings of their fore-sails, saw Pulo Sapata bearing S. by W. about 2 miles, and finding they could not clear it to the eastward, bore away and passed between it and the Little Catwick The Lady Melville, passed through it, in 1822, in the night; the Herefordshire, and other ships, have also passed through this narrow channel, during dark blowing weather in the night, before they were aware of their situation.

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nel betwixt this island and Pulo Ceicer de Mer, is very spacious and safe, with soundings of 25 or 30 fathoms near the latter, deepening to 45 and 50 fathoms in mid-channel, and toward the Catwick: when through it, the depths decrease quickly in standing to the eastward.

The channel betwixt the Great and Little Catwicks, may likewise be considered safe in day-light, but great caution is requisite when passing through it in the night, on account of the following danger.

La Paix Rock.

MACCLESFIELD ROCK, or LA PAIX ROCK, said to have been seen by the French ship of this name, many years ago, and placed by her at nearly equal distance between the Great and Little Catwicks: but until lately, its true situation had not been known to British navigators (although seen by the Macclesfield in 1721), and even its existence, was considered doubtful; it is surprising, that many ships in passing through the channel between the Catwicks in the night, without knowing that a rock existed here, have all escaped the danger.

The Europe fleet from China, consisting of nine sail, under convoy of H. M. S. Atheniene, saw the Great Catwick at midnight, March 13th, 1805, and passed between it and the Little Cara ick. Several of the ships, saw the latter and Pulo Sapata, and by their white appearance from the moon's light, mistook them for strange sails, and thought the Great Catwick was Pulo Sapata. In the Arniston, breakers were seen bearing E. ½ S., when the Great Catwick bore W. ½ N.; the journal states, that the breakers appeared to roll over a rock about a ship's length, and were very high on the North end of it, but the rock was not visible. Some ships of the fleet were to the eastward of her, when the breakers were seen, but excepting the Arniston, none of them perceived their dangerous situation.

The Gunjavar, January 7th, 1804, at ½ past 8 A. M., when Pulo Sapata bore S. E. ½ E., and the Little Catwick S. E. by S., saw the Great Catwick bearing W. ½ N., and very high breakers a long way to the N. E. side of it; bore away South and S. S.W. to go between them and the Little Catwick. When the Little Catwick was on with Pulo Sapata bearing S. E. by E., and the Great Catwick W. by N. ¼ N., had 21 fathoms water in mid-channel, which appeared to be about 4 miles wide; but the weather being thick, with rain, the distance may not be very correct.

H. M. S. Grampus, with four China ships, passed between the Catwicks, October 17th, 1810, having rounded the North end of the Great Catwick within a mile, when afterward at 11 A. M. a reef of breakers was seen from the Grampus between the Catwicks, bearing E. by S., steered S, E. by S. between it and the Great Catwick: at ½ past 11 the breakers bore N. E. 1 mile, Great Catwick N. by W. ¾ W. 3 miles, Little Catwick E. by S. ¼ S.

The Macclesfield, passed between the Great and Little Catwicks, November 20th, 1721, and her journal contains the following remark. Saw some breakers lying about 2 miles N. E. from the Great Catwick, which I believe are not seen in little wind and smooth water.

Described by Captain Ross.

The situation of the foregoing danger, has been determined by Capt. Ross, who, after passing between Pulo Sapata and the Little Catwick, March 27th, 1817, steered N.W. by W. till 3 P. M., having very smooth water, and the wind from South, discovered a small rippling bearing W. by N., for which steered, and when about ½ a mile S. E. from it, had 45 fathoms rocky ground. Sent two of our boats, and one of the Investigator's, to examine the rippling, then wore, and passed about ½ a cable's length to the eastward of the boats that were round a Rock: when our small cutter was holding on by it, she was in a transit line with the Great Catwick bearing N. 89½° W., and from the boat, the summit of Pulo Sapata bore S. 56¼ E., the Little Catwick being three quarters of the length of Sapata to the southward of that island, or 2° 5′ to the right of its highest part, The rippling was found to, be produced by a very Sharp point of a Rock, one foot under water, and at the distance of a few yards around it, there are 12 and 15 fathoms water. The rock was so steep, that the

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boat's grapnel would not remain on it, and one of the men held her on by the boat-hook. When it bore South a cable's length, we had 38 fathoms rocky ground, and from this position, ran by Massey's Patent Log, 5 miles to the Great Catwick bearing South, distant about ¼ mile.

A shoal was formerly thought to lie to the S. E. of Pulo Sapata at several miles distance, which is now believed not to exist.

A collison of currents or tides, is sometimes seen in the vicinity of these islands, producing ripplings in the sea, like breakers upon a shoal; which no doubt, has been marked sometimes as dangers.

Soundings.

SOUNDINGS deepen fast, in approaching Pulo Sapata and the Catwicks from the westward; in a direct line, about mid-way between them and Pulo Condore, the depths are 27 and 28 fathoms, increasing to 65 fathoms when Pulo Sapata bears about N. E. 12 or 13 leagues. When it bears about N. N. E. 9 leagues, the soundings are 67 to 70 fathoms, but not always regular; the edge of the bank coincides nearly with the meridian of Pulo Sapata, for very deep soundings only are obtained, a little way to the eastward of that limit. The depths increase to 110 and 120 fathoms, when Pulo Sapata bears N.W. by N. to N.W.½ N., distant about 4 or 4½ leagues, and a little farther out, there are no more soundings; a ship, therefore, being nearly in the parallel of this island, may be certain that she is to the eastward of it, when soundings are not obtained.

Minerva's Bank.

Geo. Site.

MINERVA'S BANK, situated to the N. Eastward of Pulo Sapata, is a recent discovery, made by the Company's ship of this name, on her passage to China, August 17th, 1821. At noon, she, observed in lat. 10° 32′ N., steered N. E. ½ N., 5 miles, and about ½ past noon, the water appearing very much discoloured, kept the lead going quick, had 40 fathoms first cast, then 35, 30, and 28 fathoms; shortened sail, and hove to, head to the S. Eastward, next cast had 39, 40, and 42 fathoms, and continued this depth by repeated soundings. From noon till 2 P. M. when lying to, had steered N. E. ½ N. 8 miles, which gave 6 miles northing, placing the Bank in lat. 10° 38′ N., and good sights taken at the same time, made the lon. 110° 18′ E. by mean of three chronometers. The soundings upon the Bank were all coral rock, and it appeared to extend about 1½ mile in a N. E. direction, as in hauling to the southward the depth greatly increased. About ¼ past 2 P. M. bore away, and gradually increased the soundings from 45 to 50 fathoms, then no bottom at 55 fathoms.

COAST of COCHIN-CHINA, from CAPE PADARAN to CAPE TURON; DIRECTIONS for SAILING into the HARBOURS, and along the COAST.

Padaran Bay.

CAPE PADARAN (described in the last section), is the southern boundary of the Great Bay of the same name, called also Phanran Bay, after a considerable town in the bottom of it, where there is a tolerable harbour, formed by a reef dry at low tide, that projects from the western shore about 2 miles, and shelters vessels from the sea. On the North side of Cape Padaran, there is a bight where vessels may anchor in the S.W. monsoon, with fresh water, at the South side of a small sandy bay: large ships ought not to anchor under 9 or 10 fathoms, for the bottom is foul near the shore.

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Anchorage.

The ship Admiral Gambier, sailed from Canton River, September 5th, 1812, reached Cape Varela on the 9th; meeting here with strong South and S.W. winds, and squally weather, she continued to beat against them near the coast till the 23d, then stood into Padaran Bay, where she anchored in 12 fathoms, with the East extremity of Cape Padaran, bearing S. S. E., northern extreme of the bay N. N. E., distant from the shore about 2 miles. She cut firewood, and filled up her water here, and sailed from this anchorage on the 26th September.

To sail into the harbour.

After weighing from this anchorage, or having passed Cape Padaran, if bound to the harbour, steer for the middle of the bay, to avoid a reef and foul ground contiguous to the western shore; then keep to the northward, for the North point of the harbour's entrance, until the reef on the western side of it is plainly seen.

When near the entrance, a mass of rocks placed one over the other like ruins, will be perceived close to the shore at the N.W. side of the harbour, and beyond it, an isolated hill; keep the highest rock of the mass on with this hill, in steering past the reef at the distance of ⅓ of a mile, 6 or 7 fathoms will be least water; and when inside of the reef, steer more westerly, and anchor in 4 fathoms, good holding ground. There is a rivulet at the bottom of the harbour, and a stream of fresh water, where the reef joins to the shore.

North side of the bay.

To proceed from the harbour, the directions which have been given for passing the reef, must be observed; when clear of it, avoid the North side of the bay, because it is rocky ground; steer therefore, to the S. E. until the North point of the bay is brought to bear N. E. and pass it at the distance of 3 miles; this point is low, surrounded with rocks under water, close to which, there is a dry sand bank. From hence, to Cape Varela False, the coast is very mountainous and steep, extending nearly N. E. by N.; a little to the southward of that cape, there is an opening into VUNG-GANG, a great bason or cove, inhabited by fishermen, which is darkened by the steep surrounding mountains; but it is uncertain, whether or not this cove will admit ships, and afford safe anchorage.

Cape Varela False, and the adjacent coast.

CAPE VARELA, FALSE,* called MUI-DAVAICH by the natives, in lat. 11° 44′ N bearing from Cape Padaran about N. N. E. ½ E. 8½ or 9 leagues, is formed by a very high oblong mountain of great magnitude, which from the steep cliffs that front the sea, rises with a gentle acclivity inland; and may be known from the other prominent head-lands, by its great height, convex outline, and by regularly sloping to seaward. In crossing the bay of Padaran, soundings of 40 to 50 fathoms may be got if not far out; the North point ought not to be approached under 40 fathoms in the night, because it is fronted by foul ground, and a small island lies a little way out from the shore.

Cape Varela False, forms the South point of the entrance to Camraigne Bay, which is steep to, and may be approached close, having 20 fathoms very near the shore; and betwixt the shore and the island that lies to the N. W., there is a narrow passage, with 12 to 14 fathoms water in it, fit for small vessels.

Camraigne Bay,

CAMRAIGNE BAY entrance, is in lat. 11° 49′ N., bounded on the South side by the land of Cape Varela False and the contiguous isles, and by the high island TAGNE on the North side; this is called the large entrance, in which there are from 18 to 14 fathoms water. The small entrance, is formed betwixt the North point of the island Tagne and the opposite point of the main, in which there are 7 and 8 fathoms water; but it is very narrow, and should not be used except in a case of necessity.

and Harbours.

The OUTER HARBOUR of Camraigne, is to the N.W. of the island Tagne, having 10 and 12 fathoms water in it, and protected from the sea by that island. About 1½ mile

* Named from a rock or nob upon the mountain, a little inland, having some resemblance to that over Cape Varela, although not near so conspicuous.

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farther to the N. Westward, is the entrance to Camraigne INNER HARBOUR, about ¾ of a mile wide; formed by a point of land on the North side, and a long neck or narrow peninsula to the S. Westward. The inner harbour is an extensive lagoon, but the best anchorage is a little inside of the entrance, in any depth from 10 to 6 or 7 fathoms; for all the western part is very shoal, and the shores around the western and northern parts of the harbour, are lined by a coral bank. From the northern extremity of the harbour, a river extends parallel to the coast 5 or 6 leagues; separated from the sea only by a narrow neck of land, consisting of small sand hills, and a great barren sandy plain.

The source of the river lies in marshy ground, not far from the city of Nhiatrang. There are no hidden dangers in either the outer or inner harbours, and they are safe for ships of any description, the bottom being generally mud, and good holding ground. This harbour is mostly inhabited by fishermen.

Water Islands,

and the opposite coast;

a rocky bank.

WATER ISLANDS, situated in lat. 12° 2′ to 12° 4′ N. are of moderate height, distant 3½ or 4 miles off the main land, to the northward of Camraigne Bay: the southernmost is called Hone Noi, the other Hone Ngoai, which is largest, with some islets and rocks near it. The channel inside of these islands is said to be very safe, with 12 fathoms water near the shore, and there is good anchorage opposite to them in the S.W. monsoon, close to the coast at the Great Plain; or the passage inside of these islands may be adopted, if you intend to proceed into Nhiatrang by the South entrance. The great sandy plain, is about 3 leagues in extent, ending at the South entrance of Nhiatrang Bay; at each extreme, there is a bluff point, and the bay comprehended between them, is called DGIAY BAY. It must be observed, that although the passage inside of the Water Islands is thought to be safe, there is a rocky patch to the N.W. of these islands in the fair track, on which the Lord Castlereagh shoaled suddenly, August 18th, 1807. She had worked out of Nhiatrang Bay in the morning, betwixt Tre Islandand the two islands near the shore, and observed at noon in lat. 12° 8′ N.; after steering South 4 miles with the wind at E. S. E., the water shoaled suddenly from 13 to 6½ fathoms, and the helm was put down; rocks and sea weed, were seen under the bottom, but the least water by the lead was 6½ fathoms, which deepened to 13 fathoms in standing about 2 cables' lengths to the N. Eastward. When upon this shoal patch, Hone Noi, the southernmost Water Island, bore S. E. ½ E., the bluff point at the northern extremity of Dgiay Bay N.W. ½ W., the bluff point at its southern extreme S. by E. easterly, distance of the sand downs on the shore of the bay 2½ or 3 miles. Inside of this rocky patch, there are 12 and 11 fathoms regular soundings.

Nhiatrang Bay, with Sailing directions.

NHIATRANG BAY, is large, covered by Tre Island and its adjoining isles to the southward, by the main land and Fisher's Islands to the northward and eastward. To proceed into the bay, by the South entrance, you may pass on either side of the Water Islands, then betwixt Tre Island and the two isles that lie nearly in the passage; the soundings are regular, from 12 fathoms at the entrance, to 6 and 7 fathoms between the West point of Tre Island and the main, where the channel is 1¼ or 1½ mile wide. The passage contiguous to the main, inside of the two isles that lie in the channel, is also safe; but that betwixt them and Tre Island is wider, and preferable.

The anchorage at Nhiatrang is in 8 fathoms good holding ground, with the entrance of the river bearing about N.W. or N.W. N. ½ mile, and Tre Island E. S. E. The river has a bar, and will only admit vessels drawing 7 or 8 feet water; it communicates with Nhiatrang City, about 5 miles to the westward, which is the capital of the provinces, Nhiatrang and Binkang, and has a fort built in the European manner, by Monsr. Oliver, a French engineer. Here, they manufacture some silk, and other articles, and carry on trade with different parts of the coast; a ship in want of wood or water, will obtain the necessary refreshments, by touching at this place.

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The Lord Castlereagh, on her passage from China, anchored, August 15th, 1807, in Nhiatrang Road, in 9 fathoms stiff clay, with the entrance of the river N.W. ¾ N., White Rock N. by E., Shale Island N. E. ½ E., Pyramid Island E. by N., Tre Island from E. ½ S. to S. E. ¼ S., and a ledge of rocks off it, bearing E. S. E. ¼ S. She watered with her own boats in the river, which was found very good a little inside of the entrance at low water; and about 4 or 5 miles up, the water was fresh at ½ ebb. About 2 miles up the river, there is not depth sufficient for a loaded long boat at ½ ebb, there being several shoal banks that stretch across it. The rise of tide is 5 or 6 feet, high water at 8½ hours on full and change of the moon, and there is only one flood and one ebb in 24 hours. Tre Island in lat. 12° 16′ N. is high, and contains several coves, where vessels may repair their damages: the Upton Castle anchored to the westward of Tre Island, between the inner island and the main, to the southward of Nhiatrang Road, and found it good anchorage, and convenient for watering.

The northern channel leading to Nhiatrang Road, although wide, has a Coral Bank nearly in mid-channel, opposite to the large bay of Binkang, which makes it proper to keep nearest to Tre Island. There is a passage between the South point of Binkang Bay, and Turtle Island, which lies off it; and there is also a passage between the small isle Secke and the East point of the same bay; the coral bank mentioned above, is in the line of transit with the outer extremity of the point eastward of Binkang Bay and the little islet S. S. Westward of that point. Capt. Ross was twice on this coral bank, and did not get less than 4 fathoms water, although said (by Mr. Dayot) to have as little as 3 fathoms on it. Dune Island is the northern one of two small islands, next to the northward of Tre, and when upon the coral bank Dune Island bore S. 23° 30′ E., and the small white rock called Secke, was in one with the northern extreme of the land.

Fisher's Island, and the contiguous channels.

FISHER'S ISLANDS, situated to the N. E. of Tre Island, form a group of two or three barren islands, with some rocks close to them; Pyramid Island, one of these, in about lat. 12° 21′ N., is a high, regular cone or pyramid, conspicuous as a mark in sailing along the coast. This island is about 1½ or 2 leagues to the southward of the northernmost one, called Shale; and there is a channel with 25 to 30 fathoms water between them. The southernmost island is of moderate height, flat on the summit, like the crown of a hat, when viewed in some directions; the channel betwixt it and Tre Island is safe, and there are soundings of 60 to 75 fathoms about 3 or 4 leagues outside of these islands; the soundings inside of Pyramid Island, are from 16 to 20 fathoms, decreasing regularly close to the South side of the entrance of Hone Cohe Bay.

Hone cohe Bay, and sailing directions.

HONE COHE BAY entrance, about 2½ or 3 leagues northward from Pyramid Island, has several islands in it; the outermost, called Bac, has to the eastward of it about 1 mile, a rock called the Button, and three islands to the westward. Betwixt Isle Bac and the small one to the westward, there is a safe passage, and also between the latter and the other two islands, which lie much nearer the western Shore, but the widest channel is outside of Isle Bac, between it and the East point of the bay. Having passed these islands, if bound into the bay, steer to the N.W. in mid-channel betwixt the point on the West side that forms Hone Cohe Harbour, and a small island to the eastward; then steer westerly to round the point, afterward to the southward, and anchor on the West side of it in 4 fathoms good bolding ground, sheltered all round; here, the village Hone Cohe, and some other habitations, are situated.

On the East side of the bay, there are several islands at the entrance of a cove, into which ships may warp, and moor to the trees, there being plenty of water and no danger; but vessels do not go there, as the cove is inhabited only by a few fishermen. This cove or harbour, is formed by high mountains, and communicates with the sea by a passage called

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Cua-Be (or Little Passage), to the S. Eastward, bounded on each side by high land, resembling steep perpendicular walls; but it is unknown, whether this passage is navigable, or otherwise. There are good soundings along the East side of the bay; to the northward and westward, it is extensive, but rocky and shoal near the shores; and in the middle of it, there are several islands. The tide rises 5 feet at Hone Cohe, high water at 11½ hours on full and change of the moon.

Three Kings.

Honne Gomme Bay;

adjoining coast.

THREE KINGS, are three rocks, situated about 1½ mile East of the point of Cua-be; they are bold to approach, having 30 fathoms water near them, with a passage betwixt them and the point. About 5 miles more to the northward, lies the small island Doi-Moi, at some views resembling a turret or centry box; the Point, from which it is separated by a very narrow channel, is the easternmost land of Cochin-China, being a little to the eastward of the meridian of Cape Varela, and the land between them, forms a concavity called Honne Gomme Bay. The soundings in this bay are regular, and there is good anchorage in 8 or 10 fathoms sandy bottom, at the South side, about 2 miles to the W. N.W. of the point, and near to a small island: here, water may be got at the southern extremity of the sandy flat, but in the dry season, wells must be dug in the sand, at some distance from the sea. Fresh water may be procured in this manner, on most parts of the coast. The sandy flat, which extends from the high land of Cua-Be, to that of Cape Varela, is a neck of land scarcely a mile broad in some places, separating the bottom of Honne Cohe Bay from the sea; and the three islands in the middle of that bay, may in passing, be perceived over the sandy flat.

Ong-ro Harbour.

ONG-RO HARBOUR, situated to the S.W. of Cape Varela, at the northern extremity of Honne Gomme Bay, is very safe at all times; it is about a mile wide at the entrance, stretching about 3 miles inland in a N. E. direction, with soundings of 8, 7, and 6 fathoms, close to the village at the upper part of it. The bottom is all fine clay, except within 100 yards of the shore on either side, it is frequently sand or coral rocks: on the West side of the harbour, fresh water may be procured in several places, but the best watering place is about half way up on the same side, to the N. Eastward of a little cove. Pulo Varela, is a small island near the shore, to the S.W. of the entrance of the harbour; to proceed into the latter, bring the tunnel or peak, to bear N. N.W. and steer for it with this bearing, which will lead into the entrance of the harbour, where you will have 10 or 9½ fathoms water.

Geo. Site of Cape Varela.

CAPE VARELA, or PAGODA CAPE, is formed of steep cliffs, extending nearly North and South 2 or 2½ miles, having in the middle of them, a small sandy bay, where a stream of excellent water descends from the mountains into the sea. This cape is in lat. 12° 55′ N., lon. 109° 24½′ E., or 14° 19½′ West from Grand Ladrone, by mean of a series of admeasurement with excellent chronometers, at various times. The cape itself may he seen 9 or 10 leagues, and when first perceived in coming from the northward, appears like an island, the gap of low land which joins it to the mountain behind, being then depressed under the horizon. This mountain stands directly over the cape, having upon its summit a large perpendicular rock, resembling a pagoda or chimney, called DA-BIA by the natives, which makes it very conspicuous; and it may be seen about 20 leagues distance from the deck of a large ship, either from the northward or southward, in clear weather; but the summits of the mountains are frequently obscured by clouds or vapours, particularly in the N. E. monsoon. The cape may be approached very close, there being 20 and 25 fathoms water around it, at a small distance from the shore.

* There is a hot spring in the middle of the Cape Mountain, and there is said to be silver ore in some of these mountains, which form double and treble ridges behind the cape.

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Directions.

From abreast of Cape Varela False, the course is N. by E. ½ E. and N. by E., until Pyramid Island, and the other Fisher's Islands are passed, then N.¼ E. and North to Cape Varela: the best track in the night, with a fair wind, is to keep from 2 to 3 leagues off the different headlands, which, with the Water Islands and Fisher's Islands, will be visible at that distance in passing along, if the weather be clear. When the weather is unfavorable, edge a little farther out, to give the islands a proper birth; and if soundings are obtained, you will not be far from them, or some of the headlands.

Perforated Rock.

About 4 or 5 miles N.½ W. from Cape Varela, lies a mass of rocks, some of them level with the water's edge; but the central one is considerably elevated, with a large stone on its summit, appearing as if placed by art: in passing near, a hole is perceived through below the upper stone when abreast, which has given it the name of PERFORATED ROCK. There is a safe passage betwixt it and the main land, having soundings of 20 to 25 fathoms.

Phuyen Bay, and the circumjacent coast.

Island Maignia.

PHUYEN BAY, is extensive, being formed by the land taking a westerly and N. W. direction from Cape Varela to Phuyen River, distant from it about 5 leagues, and afterward trending to the northward. About 6 or 6½ leagues N. Westward from Cape Varela, stands a high isolated mountain not far inland, being a regular cone, called CONICAL MOUNTAIN, or EPERVIER; and a little to the southward of it, there is a sloping piece of land with a rock or pagoda on it, which is only discerned when near the shore. Here, the inland mountains recede to the westward, a great way from the sea, and the Cape Varela Chain stretching also to the westward, a large space of low land is formed close to the sea around the bay of Phuyen, betwixt Cape Varela and Conical Mountain. The entrance of Phuyen River is to the southward of this mountain, and will only admit boats. A ship may anchor off it in 8 or 9 fathoms good ground, with Conical Mountain bearing about N. N. W., and a pagoda on a mountain some distance inland N. W., but these mountains are frequently obscured by clouds. The soundings across the bay of Phuyen, are 30 to 35 fathoms, about 4 and 5 miles off shore. Several flat islands adjoin to the coast on the North side of the bay, of which, MAIGNIA is the most considerable, distant about 2 miles from the shore, having an indifferent passage inside of it, of irregular depths and the bottom rocky; close to it on the outside, there are 23 and 24 fathoms water. Abreast of this island, there are on the coast, near the sea, two small hummocks, one of them resembling a sugar loaf.

Phuyen Harbour.

PHUYEN HARBOUR'S ENTRANCE, in lat. 13° 23′ N., is about 5 miles to the northward of the island Maignia, and 3½ leagues S. S. Westward from Palo Cambir; it is about 2 miles wide, with 10 and 11 fathoms water on either side of the small island that lies a little inside, called Nest Island, which ought not to be approached close on the West side, because a reef projects about a musket-shot in that direction.

This harbour, which is one of the best in the world, branches out into three harbours inside, distinguished by the names of XUAN-DAI, VUNG-LAM, and VUNG-CHAO. The anchorage of Xuan dai is on the South side, in 7 or 8 fathoms sandy bottom, with the entrance of the river bearing South, and Nest Island about N. E. by E. That of Vung-Lam is about 2 miles more to the N. Westward, in 7 fathoms mud, on the North side of an island that fronts the cove, with the village bearing S.W. by W. Vung-Chao, about a league farther northward, on the East side of the great or inner harbour, is sheltered from every wind by circumjacent mountains, and the anchorage is in 4½ or 5 fathoms, with the houses in the grove of cocoa-nut trees bearing S. E. to S. E. by E. On the North side of the harbour, a coral reef lines the shore, which is visible at low water, and stretches all round the bottom of the inner harbour. In proceeding toward Vung-Chao, the Buoy Rock must be avoided, which is nearly even with the water's edge, and lies about of a mile from the eastern shore, outside the point that forms the East side of the entrance to the inner harbour. There is a small cove, called VUNG-LA, under the North point of the outer entrance, where two or

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three vessels might be hove down, if requisite. The country around this excellent harbour, is well cultivated, and, together with the houses and huts interspersed along the hills, present in entering it, a beautiful landscape. The province of Phuyen, is better cultivated than any other in Cochin-China.

Gain-ba Point;

GAIN-BA POINT, is about a league to the northward of the entrance of Phuyen Harbour, where vessels may anchor occasionally in the small bays formed on each side of it; in the bay on the South side, there is a fishing village: this point, and the coast between it and the entrance of Phuyen Harbour, may be passed very close in 10 or 12 fathoms water. About a league to the northward of Gain-ba Point, lies another point, called Vung-Trich, and the point Vung-Mon, about 4 miles beyond the latter; these two points are also bold, and may be passed very close, in 10 or 12 fathoms. The bay of Vung-Mon, situated betwixt these points, is safe to approach, with regular soundings in it toward the shore.

Cou-Mong Harbour;

COU-MONG HARBOUR'S ENTRANCE, situated on the South side of this bay, in Harbour; lat. 13° 29′ N. is very narrow, with 7 and 8 fathoms water in it, 5 and 4 fathoms a little inside, and 3 to 4 fathoms to the southward of the small island in the middle of the harbour. This is an excellent cove for small vessels, or those of middling size; and there is a little village among the cocoa-nut trees to the northward of the island. Vung-Mon Point, like that of Gain-ba, has a bay on each side, with a small fishing village in the northern one: a vessel intending to anchor there, must give a birth to the northern extremity of the point, for rocks project from it above and under water, having 10 fathoms close to them; the anchorage is also in 10 fathoms.

Pulo Cambir;

PULO CAMBIR, in lat. 13° 33′ N., and 4 or 5 miles to the westward of the meridian of Cape Varela, has a regular sloping appearance, and may be discerned about 6 leagues from a ship's deck; it is of considerable size, extending N. N. W. and S. S. E., having a few fishermen's huts on the S.W. side, and at a small distance S. Eastward from its South end, there are some sharp peaked rocks, called the TWO PAPS, This island is nearly abreast of Vung-Mon Point, about 4 or 5 miles distant; and the channel betwixt it and the coast is very safe, with 12 and 13 fathoms near Vung-Mon Point, 20 fathoms toward Pulo Cambir, and outside of this island, at a small distance, there are no soundings. There are 23 fathoms with it bearing N. by W. 5 or 6 miles.

Date Island, and the adjoining coast.

DATE ISLAND, distant about 2 or 2½ leagues to the northward of Vung-Mon Point, and 1½ mile distant from the main, is of round form, covered with trees; betwixt it and another round island nearer the shore, there is a passage with 5 and 6 fathoms water; and there are some rocks above water, to the northward of the island last mentioned. From Vung-Mon Point, to opposite Date Island, the coast is steep and very mountainous; forming a considerable concavity, called Cambir Bay.

Quinhone Harbour with directions.

QUINHONE HARBOUR'S ENTRANCE, bearing about North 6 miles from Date Island, is bounded on the West side by a neck of sand about 4 miles long, and on the East side by high steep land, Close to the point on the East side, and within it, there is plenty of water; and the harbour is sheltered from southerly winds by the curved form of the high land on that side of the entrance, and protected by forts built on the point; but large ships are prevented from entering it, by a shoal bank that extends a long way out from the Western Point, then stretching across, joins to the land on the East side of the entrance, and forms a bar, on which there are only 3 and 3½ fathoms water. The deepest water is close to the point on the East side of the entrance, where Captain Purefoy says, a ship may carry from 3½ to 4 fathoms on the bar, at high water spring tides: inside of it, the depth increases to 7,

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8, and 10 fathoms. The western part, and bottom of the harbour, is a spacious lagoon, with very shoal water; several small rivers fall into it, one of which communicates with the city Quinhone, situated about 5 leagues to the westward, and is the capital of the province of the same name. This harbour was a place of considerable trade, prior to the long war between the King of Cochin-China, and his rebellious subjects. A ship may anchor outside of the bar in 4½ fathoms good holding round, with the Sandy West Point a little open with the East point of the entrance, if she intend to touch here, and not to go into the harbour.

Geo. Site of Cape Sanho; coast and isles adjacent.

CAPE SAN-HO, in lat. 13° 44′ N., lon. 109° 14′ E., about 2½ or 3 miles East from the entrance of Quinhone Harbour, is a high bluff Head Land, forming the eastern point of the bay of Quinhone: close to the land, a little to the northward of the cape, there is an island called Hau by the natives; and the coast, which extends about 5 miles North from the cape, is very steep and high. Abreast of the North point of this high land, there are some small isles; one of them, called Cau, is a round islet, about 1 mile off the point; and nearly 1½ mile outside of this, there are some rocky islets named Hom-Cone and Hom-Co by the natives, and by Europeans, Black Jack. Between these and isle Cau, and also inside of the latter, vessels may occasionally pass, there being 15 and 20 fathoms water around them. On the North side of the point opposite to these islets, there is good anchorage in the S.W. monsoon, fronting a small bay formed by the point.

Course along the coast.

From Cape Varela to Cape San-ho, the course is N. by W.; and N. ½ W. about 19 leagues, to pass outside of Black Jack, and the other islets that lie to the northward of the latter cape: soundings will not be got in this track, unless well in with the coast.

A little inland, there is a mount in the vicinity of Quinhone City, with a spire pagoda on it; farther to the northward, there is a mountain with a tower on its summit, and the tower is crowned with a small spire or funnel; the latter is in about lat. 14° 6′ N., and they are discernible when sailing along the coast at a considerable distance.

Buffalo, and adjoining coast.

BUFFALO, in about lat. 14° 11′ N., and 4 or 5 miles distant from the high land abreast, is a convex rock of sloping form, moderately elevated, but will not be seen in the night until it is approached very close. It lies 5 or 6 leagues to the northward of the North point of the high land that forms Quinhone Harbour; from which point, the coast is low for some distance, and again becomes high, opposite to the Buffalo. The water is very deep outside of this rock, and the coast to the westward is bold and safe to approach, having soundings of 14 and 16 fathoms very near the shore. A fleet of ships from China, having no observations, got close to this part of the coast in the night; some of the ships passed outside of the Buffalo, others passed between it and the main, and found the channel safe, with regular soundings.

Turtle Island.

NUOC-NGOL, or Fresh Water Point, and Bay, lie about 3 leagues to the N.W. of the Buffalo; there is a small island nearly touching the point, on the South side of which is the bay, having a village close under the point; and there is good anchorage in 10 or 12 fathoms sandy bottom. TURTLE ISLAND, about 3 or 4 leagues farther to the northward, and 4 miles off shore, is small, and very little above water; but there is a safe channel betwixt it and the coast. There are soundings of 65 or 70 fathoms, about 3 or 4 leagues off this part of the coast.

Tamquan River.

Tiphon River.

TAMQUAN RIVER, lies to the N.W. of Turtle Island, in about lat. 14° 39′ N.,* situated at the northern extremity of a sandy flat, having a bar at the entrance, passable only by boats at high water. The anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms, is mud and sand, partly sheltered

* Another account places it in lat. 14° 32′ N., which may probably be nearest the truth.

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from northerly winds, by the coast stretching out about 2 miles eastward from the North side of the river. TIPHOU RIVER, is a few miles more to the southward, in the middle of the sandy flat; the anchorage off this river, is in 7 or 8 fathoms sandy bottom.

Coast from thence

to Bantam Cape.

From the Point of Tamquan, the coast extends North a little easterly about 2 leagues, then it takes a direction nearly N. W. by N. about 7 leagues, to Quan-ngai River; it is steep and bold to approach, having 30 fathoms within 2 or 3 miles of the shore; contiguous to the sea, the coast is of moderate height, but the country is very high inland. There is anchorage off Quan-ngai River: Cape Batangan, about 2 leagues to the N. E. of it, projects out to seaward, and forms a bay on the South side; on this side of the cape, about a mile distant, there are some rocks nearly even with the water's edge, called Rocky Island, betwixt which and the cape, the country vessels sometimes pass. The coast from this cape to Bantam Cape, extends nearly N.W. about 4 leagues, having soundings of 20 and 25 fathoms near the shore.

Geo Site of Pulo Canton; channel contiguous.

PULO CANTON, called COLLAO-RAY by the natives, in lat. 15° 23′ N., lon. 109° 6′ E., or 4° 38′ West from Grand Ladrone by chronometers, is about 4 leagues distant from Cape Batangan, and the coast to which it lies opposite, a little to the northward of that cape. It is of considerable size, discernible about 9 leagues from the deck of a large ship, and has a level aspect when viewed from the southward: on the West side, it is inhabited, well cultivated, and fresh water may be procured here. A reef projects from the S. E. end of the island, and to the northward, there are overfalls and rocky bottom, extending from it and from the Low Island that lies to the N.W. of Pulo Canton about a league. The N. E. sides of these islands should not be closely approached, for although it is not known that danger exists, overfalls of 15, to 7 fathoms have been experienced about 2 or 3 leagues to the northward of Pulo Canton. When it bears S. S. E. 4 leagues, there are 50 fathoms water.

The channel betwixt the island and the main is very safe, with soundings of 25 to 34 fathoms; within 2 or 3 miles of the main, the depths are generally about 30 fathoms, decreasing to 25 fathoms toward Pulo Canton; the low island to the northward, should not be approached.

To sail along the coast in the S.W. monsoon.

It may be proper to observe in, this place, that such ships as may adopt the inner passage the China during the strength of the S.W. monsoon, in June, July, and August, ought not to edge off from the coast of Cochin-China, until they pass within sight of Pulo Canton, particularly if the winds are light and baffling; and in such case, it is advisable to steer well to the North, toward the South part of Hainan, to prevent being driven near the N. Western extremity of the Paracels, should a N. Westerly storm happen to blow from the Gulf of Tonking, which has been frequently experienced in June and July.

Port Qui-Quick and the coast around.

PORT QUI-QUICK, bearing about W. by N. from Pulo Canton, is a considerable bay formed on the West side of Cape Bantam, close to the foot of high mountains; it is about 2 leagues wide, and 1½ league deep, with some islets in it, and small creeks where fresh water may be procured; and it affords good anchorage in the S.W. monsoon. At the N, Western extremity of the bay, there is a small bay or cove under Happoix Point, said to afford shelter in the N. E. monsoon; opposite to it, Happoix River may be discerned, which extends a great way inland.

Cham Collao False.

From Happoix Point, the coast extends near N.W. by N. about 15 leagues to Cape Turon, and in this space, the country is mountainous, a little inland. About 4 leagues northward from Happoix Point, lies the island CHAM-COLLAO FALSE, which is about 4 leagues off the coast, of considerable height, and a reef is said to project from its southern extremity.

Cham Collao and contiguous channel.

Fai-fo

CHAM-CALLAO, in lat. 15° 54′ N., about 5 leagues to the N. Westward of the former,

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and 3 leagues distant from the main, is a high island about 2 leagues in length N. N.W. and S. S. E., having some islets adjoining its South end, and others projecting to the westward from its N.W. part. It is inhabited, well cultivated, and the anchorage on the West side, in 4 or 4½ fathoms near the village, may be considered a safe harbour in all winds. The channel betwixt these islands and the main, is safe, with soundings mostly from 6 to 8 fathoms; and in some parts 5 fathoms, to the westward of Cham Collao. Opposite to this island, lies the entrance of Fai-fo River, which by a narrow arm of the sea, communicates with Turon Bay; near Fai-fo River's entrance, there is a mass of marble rocks, very conspicuous when sailing near the coast.

Geo. Site of Cape Turon, the bay, and contiguous land.

CAPE TURON,* or TIEN-TCHU, in lat. 16° 5′ N., lon. 108° 15′ E. by chronometers and lunar observations, is the easternmost extremity of the peninsula that forms the East side of Turon Bay; and Callao-hanne, or Turon Island in lat. 16° 11′ N. lies close to the point of land that forms the N.W. side of its entrance. The entrance of Turon Bay, is about 4 or 5 miles wide, with regular soundings 15 and 14 fathoms, decreasing inside to 8, 7, and 6 fathoms. The northern shore of the peninsula ought not to be approached very close, for a reef on which the sea sometimes breaks, projects about ¾ of a mile from the third point; the inner point of the peninsula, is also joined to a small contiguous island by a shoal. This small island is in lat. 16° 2½′ N., and the common anchorage is on the South side of it and the point, in 5 or 5½ fathoms, where ships are sheltered from all winds. This is an excellent harbour, affording plenty of poultry and other refreshments, from the adjacent villages; several rivers fall into the bay, and the depths decrease regularly toward the circumjacent shores, but Turon River and Sandy Isle at the eastern side of the bay, are lined by a shoal bank. This was formerly a great place of trade, and some European nations had factories here; but no trade has been carried on by Europeans to this port for a considerable time past. The peninsula, and Turon Island, are both high; and the country inland, is generally high and mountainous. The soundings about 2 or 3 miles outside of Cape Turon, are 24 to 25 fathoms, the same depths are got about 2 or 2½ leagues to the N. Eastward of the island, abreast the entrance of the Bay; and the bottom is generally mud or ouze.

Approaching Turon from southward, the mass of marble rocks appears insulated, resembling a castle; a few miles to the northward of which, the Cape Peninsula is perceived with two peaked hills on it, one of them much higher than the other, and united by a low narrow isthmus: having approached the Cape Peninsula, steer round it at a moderate distance, into the harbour. Turon Bay, is called Han-san by the natives.

GULF of TONKING, and the ISLAND HAINAN, with SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Cape Chouvay.

CAPE CHOUVAY, or CHOUVAY, in lat. 16° 21′ N., bearing N.W. by W. 9 leagues from Cape Turon, has good anchorage in a small bay on the West side, where there is a river; and a little farther to the N.W., there are other rivers: the coast between these two capes forms a bight, and a river falls into it.

* The description of the coast of Cochin-China, from Cape St. James to Turon Cape and Bay, is partly taken from Monsieur Dayot's excellent survey, (which Mr. Drummond, now Lord Strathallan, kindly allowed me to have translated from the French original, in his possession, at Canton, in 1804), and partly from my own observations made in eight voyages, sailing along the coast.

VOL. II. N N

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Hue River.

Tiger Island.

HUE, or HUE-FO RIVER, in about lat. 16° 35′ N., distant 9 leagues N.W. by W. from Cape Chouvay, has good anchorage off it in 6 fathoms mud, and upon the bar there are about 2 fathoms at low water. The city Hue, about 4 or 5 leagues up the river, was formerly the residence of the King of Cochin-China; when the northern provinces rebelled, it became the seat of the rebel government, but has again, with these provinces, been re-taken by the King, who resides in it at times, About 6 leagues northward of the entrance of Hue River, lies Tiger Island, in about lat. 16° 55′ N., which is high and small. There are regular soundings along this part of the coast, the bottom mostly blue mud, or mud and sand; about 6 or 7 leagues to the N.W. of Tiger Island, the soundings are 30 to 34 fathoms; and they reach from thence, across the entrance of the gulf, to the West part of Hainan.

Tonking Gulf;

TONKING, or TUNG-QUIN GULF, is bounded at the entrance, by the S.W. end of Hainan on the North side, and on the South side by Cape Chouvay and the coast about Hue River, for this river is generally considered as the boundary betwixt the coast of Cochin-China and that of Tonking. The gulf is about 35 leagues wide, having several islands contiguous to the western shore, and at the bottom of it, numerous small islands and shoals. There are soundings all over it, 45 and 40 fathoms in the middle, decreasing toward either shore; the bottom is generally soft, and proper for anchorage. In some parts, the soundings appear to be irregular, for the Rolla* in lat. 17° 25′ N., to the northward of Tiger Island, shoaled from 35 and 30 fathoms mud, to 10 fathoms on a bank, steering W. by S.; and soon deepened again to 25 and 30 fathoms, steering W. by N.

Two considerable islands, amongst several others near the shore in the bottom of the gulf, are marks for two principal branches of Tonking River. One of these, called Rockbo, falls into the N.W. part of the gulf in about lat. 20° 6′ N., which has been frequented by the Chinese and Siamese vessels; although there is thought to be only 12 feet water in the channel, at the entrance, soft mud: about a league westward from it, and 2 miles off shore, lies Fisher's Island, of moderate height and small, which is a mark for the river.

The other branch, or principal river, called Domea, from the first considerable town on its banks, falls into the gulf about 20 leagues N. Eastward of the former, in about lat. 20° 50′ N. Between these rivers, there are many dangerous shoals, projecting 2 leagues from the shore; and the whole coast of the gulf, to the peninsula of Lui-chew-fu, which bounds it on the East side, is fronted by shoals and reefs, some of them projecting a great way out from the main land.

The bar;

Directions.

The bar of the principal river, is composed of hard sand, liable to shift with the tides, which renders a pilot necessary, when a ship intends to proceed into the river; one may be got from the village Batsha, situated at the mouth of the river, by firing a gun, and making the signal. The mark to approach the river, is to steer for a mountain inland, called the Elephant, bearing about N.W, by W., and when Pearl Island, which is small, situated on the eastern side of the road, is brought to bear about N. N. E. 1 league distant, it will be proper to anchor in 6 to 8 fathoms and wait for a pilot; the bar will then be distant 2 or 3 miles. The Formosa, July 13th, 1680, anchored in 8 fathoms sand, Tiger's Hook N. N.E., the Alcoran N.½ E., Pearl Island N. N. E. ½ E., and the Elephant N.W. by N., which was the best anchorage at that time.

* This ship, bound from Canton to England with teas, on account of the Company, made a dangerous and singular mistake. She left the Grand Ladrone, February 6th, 1804, steeled for the Inner Passage, saw Palo Canton bearing S. by W. 6 or 7 leagues on the 9th, which they mistook for an Island of the Paracels. Afterward, she stood to the northward in the night, and to the westward in the day, endeavouring to force a passage through amongst, or to round the northern limit of the Paracels; but was always obstructed by a chain of islands and shoals. At last, on the 16th, they observed in lat. 17° 28′ N., had regular soundings for two days in the entrance of the Gulf of Tonking; shortly after, saw Tiger Island bearing S. E., and having tried for seven days to force a passage through the Paracels, they found that it was the main land they had mistaken for those dangers; consequently, steered to the S. Eastward along the coast.

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Inside of the bar, the depths increase over soft bottom, and the river which is above a mile in breadth at the mouth, becomes more contracted farther up. Cachao, the capital city of Tonking, is about 28 leagues up the river. European ships traded to this river upward of 150 years ago, but this trade has been discontinued for a long period, and the knowledge of the navigation of this gulf, having not been carefully recorded, is now almost lost to Europeans; and it will probably continue so, unless trade should revive, and be an inducement for ships to return to this place: the foregoing remarks for this gulf, and for the rivers, ought therefore, not to be relied on implicitly.

If bound to Tonking in the S.W. monsoon, keep along the coast of Cochin-China to Cape Chouvay, or to Tiger Island, from thence, steer to the N.W, and N. N.W., giving a proper birth to the West Coast of Hainan; the lead will shew the approach to it, by the quick decrease in depth when near its contiguous banks, which should not be borrowed on under 16 or 20 fathoms. Having reached lat. 19° N., and in 28 or 30 fathoms, if the Island Hainan has not been seen, a N. by W. course ought to be steered to make the Norway Islands, which are of middling height; the southernmost said to be in lat. 20° 35′ N., about 13 leagues E. S. Eastward of the Bar of Tonking River; but the course steered, and the approach to the river, must be governed by the tides or currents, which are frequently found to set out of the gulf. On the bar, there is only about 6 feet water at low tide, when they rise and fall most; and 12 feet at low water, when there is little rise and fall; at high water, there is in the former case, 24 or 26 feet upon it, and only 14 or 16 feet in the latter case.*

Leaving the bar in the N. E. monsoon, steer between S. E. and S. E. by E., which will bring you in sight of Hainan, the N.W. part of which must be avoided, by not coming under 20 fathoms toward the sands, said to stretch out 6 or 7 leagues. Easterly winds prevail often in the gulf during the N. E. monsoon, when outside in the open sea the winds are blowing at the same time from N. Eastward.

Hainan.

HAINAN, or HAI-NAM, bounding the Gulf of Tonking to the S. E. and Eastward, extends about 55 leagues in a N. E. and S.W. direction, and is about 25 leagues in breadth. It is in most parts, very high uneven land when viewed from seaward; but inland there are many level districts, cultivated with rice, sugar-cane, areka, or beetle-nut trees, and tobacco. These cultivated plains, are separated from each other by lofty mountains, covered with impenetrable forests, through which the natives have cut narrow passes in the most accessible parts, to enable them to go from one district to the other. The island is subject to the Chinese, who hold all the places of profit or of consequence, keeping the inoffensive aborigines in a state of abject poverty.

* In the entrance of Tonking River, there is but one flood and ebb in 24 hours; and when the moon is near the equator, twice every month, there is little or no tide, being then dead neaps. With the moon's declination the tides increase, and when she is in the tropical signs they rise most; only with this difference, that when the moon has North declination, the tide flows when she is above the earth, and ebbs when she is under the horizon, making high water at setting, and low water at the rising moon: whereas, the moon having South declination, makes high water at her rising, and low water at her setting, the tide then flowing when she is under, and ebbing when she is above the horizon.

The tides are highest in the easterly monsoon, for the current which then sets along the coast of China to the westward, is impelled by the strength of the wind through the channels on both sides of Hainan, producing an accumulation of water in the gulf; whereas, the N.W. and Westerly winds, which greatly prevail about this gulf in the other monsoon, tend to force the water out of it to the southward.

At many of the eastern islands, in the Indian Seas, there is only one flood and one ebb during 24 hours, which seem to be dependant on the moon's declination, as at Tonking, although not observed by navigators. At the Island Baseclan, near Mindanao, where the Anna's long-boat went into Maloza River three times for water, we found only one flood in 24 hours, high water at the rising moon.

In Canton River, although there are two tides in 24 hours, they are influenced greatly by the moon's declination; their height at times, apparently, depending on that, nearly as much as on her conjunction with, or opposition to the sun.

N N 2

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The N.W. coast is little known to Europeans; some shoal banks are said to extend 6 or 7 leagues from the West part of it, which may be approached to 16 or 18 fathoms, or to 15 fathoms in some places, the soundings being regular toward them.

The South and S. E. coasts, are bold to approach, with soundings generally from 25 to 35 fathoms very near, or close to the headlands, deepening to 65 or 70 fathoms about 5 leagues off; and in some places, these soundings extend 6 or 7 leagues off shore.

The South coast, is indented with several fine bays, affording good anchorage, and shelter from the N. E. monsoon, each of which may be considered a safe harbour during that monsoon, but they are partly open to southerly winds.

Yait-chew Bay.

YAIT-CHEW BAY, situated at the western extremity of the island, in lat. 18° 24′ N., has some islets in it, and moderate depths for anchorage, but exposed to southerly and S.W. winds; it is the westernmost bay on the South side of the island. A little way up the river which falls into the bay, stands the fortified town of Yait-chew, with a citadel or fort to the westward: the governor of the island, frequently resides here, it being one of the chief towns.

Sy-chew Bay

SY-CHEW BAY, situated a little to the eastward of the former, is exposed to South and West winds; a little inland, there is a hill with a pagoda or funnel upon it.

Sama Bay.

SAMA, or SAMOY BAY, the next to the eastward, distant 8 or 9 leagues from Yait-chew Bay, has several islets and rocks in it, with anchorage inside of them for small vessels. A considerable river falls into the N. E. part of the bay, with a small fort at its entrance; and Sama Town, the residence of a mandarin, stands near its western bank.

Yu-lin-kan Bay.

Directions to proceed into the Harbour.

YU-LIN-KAN BAY, in lat. 18° 10½′ N., (the entrance) separated from that of Sama, by a long narrow point of land, has 22 fathoms soft bottom in the entrance, and from 11 to 7 fathoms at the proper anchoring place in the N. E. arm of the bay, where ships are sheltered in every direction, except between South and W. S.W. Several ships which were driven from the coast of China by Ty-foongs at the beginning of the N. E. monsoon, have been known to take shelter in this bay, until the monsoon was over: there is fresh water to the northward of an islet, on the eastern shore of the bay. To the northward of the anchorage, there is a passage into a lagoon, or inner harbour, where small vessels will be sheltered from all winds. Rocky or Foul Point, forming the East side of the entrance, is surrounded by a rocky reef, but the Sandy Point on the West side, has 4 fathoms within less than a ship's length; betwixt these points, the entrance of the harbour is not above ¼ a mile wide, and more contracted by the reef projecting from Rocky Point. To the southward of Sandy Point, about ½ a mile, a reef projects out a considerable way from the western shore, requiring care in steering for the entrance. A ship may warp in, if the weather is fine; or with a southerly or easterly wind she may sail in, by keeping nearest to the eastern shore until nearly abreast of Rocky Point, then steer over for the Sandy Point, and round it at a small distance. The best time to enter the harbour, is at low water, the dangers being more conspicuous, and 5 or 5½ fathoms will be the smallest depth in the fair channel; having rounded Sandy Point, and shut it in with the land on the East side of the outer bay, a ship should anchor in 5½ or 6 fathoms, within a small ½ mile of the shore near Sandy Point, and examine the bottom around with boats, prior to mooring.

Geo. Site of the South point of Hainan.

Directions for sailing into Galong Bay.

GALONG BAY, is separated from that of Yu-lin-kan, by a piece of high land about 1½ league broad, which forms the southern extremity of Hainan, and its most prominent part is in lat. 18° 10′ N., lon. 109° 34½′ E. This bay is about 5 miles wide, and 3 or 3½ miles in depth, having two round islands, called the Brothers, in the entrance, and one near the middle of the upper part of the bay, called St. Peter's, or Middle Island; in the N.W. part,

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there are some rocks above and under water, and the bottom along the western side of the bay is generally foul. With a leading wind, the bay may be entered by any of the three channels; that between the East* Brother and the eastern shore, has from 15 to 18 fathoms coarse sandy bottom, and as a reef projects from the N. E. end of the Brother, it is prudent to keep in mid-channel, or rather nearest to the main. The channel between the Brothers is very safe, the depths in it from 16 to 19 fathoms blue clay; but the western channel is the most convenient with a working wind, being nearly a league wide, with soundings of 18 and 20 fathoms from the West Brother, until close to the S.W., point of the bay: inside, the depths are from 15 to 11 fathoms, good anchoring ground. A little way outside of the Brothers, the depths increase to 35 and 40 fathoms.

Ships wintering in this bay during the N. E. monsoon, moor in 7 or 8 fathoms dark sand and mud, at the N. E. part, with the village Galong bearing E. by S. about a mile; and a reef that lines the South side of the little bay contiguous to the village, must have a birth in mooring. Here, ships are sheltered from all winds, by the circumjacent high land, except those that blow between South and S.W., which force a considerable swell into the bay. A ship might moor under fours, close on the North side of Middle Island, and be sheltered there, from all winds. Northward from the common anchorage, there is a white sandy beach, and a rocky part of the shore separates it from the small bay to the eastward; on the N.W. side of these rocks, fresh water is procured from a small run, that terminates in a pool close to the beach. The tide rises here, about 4 or 5 feet.

The fishermen will ask 80 or 100 dollars to carry a ship into this bay, but there is no occasion for a pilot; after entering it by either channel, work or sail up between Middle Island and the East side of the bay, which are safe to approach, and anchor opposite to the village. Small bullocks are got here, at 7 or 8 dollars each; rice, sweet potatoes, and some other vegetables, may be procured for dollars; also fish, and some poultry.†

Lieng-soy Bay,

and adjacent coast.

LIEONG-SOY, or TONG-SOY BAY, about 8 leagues N. Eastward of Galong Bay, is a large open anchorage; but sheltered from N. E. and northerly winds, by anchoring well in toward the East side of the bay in 7 or 8 fathoms, with Lieong-soy high rocky Point bearing to the E. S. Eastward, off which a reef projects some distance. At the North part of the bay, there is an inlet to a lagoon, near which stands Lieong-soy town, the residence of a mandarin. Ton-kieou is another considerable town farther to the westward, with a bay, and some islands, and rocks fronting it: a river descends from the town into the North part of this bay, and a serpentine inlet from the West side of it, leads into a lake, where the country around is well cultivated, and forms a beautiful plain, separated from the land that forms Galong Bay by a chain of mountains; and it was from the summit of this chain, that we had a bird's-eye view of the circumjacent country.

The land to the eastward of Lieong-soy Bay, is high, rocky, and barren, with 36 fathoms water within 2 or 3 miles of the shore.

Sail Rock, and the coast to the N. E.

TIENG-FONG, or SAIL ROCK, in lat. 18° 26¼′ N., and distant 3 or 4 leagues N. E. by E. from the S. E. part of the land that forms Lieong-soy Bay, is a rugged peaked rock, appearing like a Chinese junk in some views: the depths about 3 miles outside of it, are 35 to 38 fathoms; and there is a channel with 10 to 13 fathoms between it and the shore, from which it is distant 4 miles. From this rock, to the island Tinhosa, the distance is about 10 leagues N. E. by E., and there are three islands near the shore in this space, with 12 and 14

* Capt. Ross made the East Brother in lat. 18° 11′ 20" N., lon. 109° 41½′ E.

† Having been disabled by a Ty-foong, in the Gunjavar, September 24th, 1786, we were obliged to take shelter under Hainan, and remained in Galong Bay until the 1st of April following; we walked inland at discretion, and found the natives very inoffensive. The island abounds with wood fit for fuel, but none of the timber seems durable, or proper for ship building.

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fathoms water close to them. Inside of the easternmost of these islands, lies the town of Manchow, and near the coast abreast of the westernmost, there is a ridge of high land with three peaks on it, the centre one most pointed and a little higher than the others: this lies near the sea, and at a considerable distance, is sometimes mistaken for Tinhosa Island. Farther inland, in about lat. 18° 56′ N., there is a high mountain of similar appearance to the former, but more elevated; it was seen bearing W. S.W. nearly 30 leagues distant, then forming in three peaks or sugar loaves.

In moderate weather, sailing along the coast, bamboes may frequently be seen standing erect above the surface of the sea; they are the buoys of drift nets, which the fishermen place sometimes a great way from the land, to catch flying fish.

Geo. Site of Tinhosa, and its harbour.

TINHOSA ISLAND, is in lat. 18° 40′ N., lon. 110° 29′ E., or 3° 15′ W. from Grand Ladrone by chronometers; and in 1803, I made it 1° 4½′ E. from Cape Varela by mean of three chronometers. It is formed of two hills extending north and south, separated by a low gap, with steep cliffs fronting the sea; and from the summit of the hills, the land slopes down to the eastward; it is just discernible at 11 leagues distance from the poop.

The West side of the island being of a concave form, with soundings of 8 to 10 fathoms betwixt it and the Hainan shore, good shelter may be found against all winds, excepting those which blow from South, or S. Westward; it therefore, forms a good harbour in the N. E. monsoon; the entrance to it is about 3 miles wide, betwixt the S.W. point of the island and the opposite shore. The Valentine took shelter here, after being driven from her anchors close to the Grand Ladrone, early in October, 1763, and sailed in March following for Macao. Tinhosa, is steep to, on the outside; when passing it about a mile distant, we had 35 fathoms soft ground, and about 3 or 4 miles to the eastward of it, 60 and 65 fathoms.

Tinhosa False,

TINHOSA FALSE, in about lat. 18° 49½′ N., and 5 leagues N. N. Eastward from Tinhosa, is an island of small extent, and middling height; and when viewed from the southward, has a rock like a pillar at its eastern extremity.

coast from hence northward.

Geo. Site of Hainan Head.

From Tinhosa False, the coast extends N. by E. and N. N. E. about 10 or 11 leagues to TOONGEEAN or TONGEON high mountain; in this extent, the land contiguous to the sea is mostly low and level, covered with trees, but far inland, the country is mountainous. The low part of the coast should not be approached under 15 fathoms in passing along, for our Chinese pilot asserted, that the bottom is foul and rocky under that depth. To the northward of this low land, the coast becomes again high, and safe to approach: the high land projects out a little to the eastward, and from lat. 19° 43′ N., stretches northward, forming HAINAN HEAD, the N. Eastern extremity of the island, in lat. 20° 0′ N. lon. 110° 57′ E. The northern coast from hence, taking a westerly direction, an intricate channel is formed betwixt it and the peninsula of Lui-chew-fu; this channel is little known to Europeans, but the Hainan fishermen say, it is not very safe for large ships, being lined by sands and breakers.

North coast of hainan.

The East side of the peninsula of Lui-chew-fu, is thought to be fronted by sands extending from the N. E. part of Hainan a great way to the northward, and projecting well out to seaward. This bight between the North end of Hainan and Tien-pak is very little known, but the Prince of Wales, from Port Jackson bound to Canton, fell to leeward in January, 1797, and had from 12 to 14 fathoms within 2 miles of the breakers on these shoals, with the North end of Hainan bearing from S.W. to W. by S.

Kiong-chew-fu, on the North side of Hainan, contiguous to the channel and shoals, is a considerable town, where the junks from China come to trade, and it is said to be a good harbour.

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Geo. Site of the Taya Islands; inside channel.

TAYA ISLANDS, separated from the high land of Hainan Head, by a safe channel 4 or 5 leagues wide, consist of two groups of high barren islands, six or seven in number (with some rocks), which may be seen about 8 leagues from the deck; and the pilots say, there is a safe passage between the two groups, which is 3 miles wide. They extend N. E. by N. and S.W. by S. about 5 leagues, the northernmost being in lat. 19° 58¾′ N., lon. 111° 14′* E., or 2° 30′ West from Grand Ladrone, by chronometers. The southernmost island, in lat. 19° 49′ N., seems one of the largest, from which a high sand bank stretches to the N. N. Eastward, having regular soundings, 20 and 21 fathoms about 3 miles from it on the East side. When these islands bear W. by S. distant 7 leagues, the depth is 45 fathoms; when they bear N. by W. about the same distance, it is 48 fathoms; and soundings extend on the parallel of the northernmost island, as far eastward as the meridian of the Grand Ladrone: the Warley had 36 fathoms in lat. 20° 25′ N., with these islands bearing South, having been driven to the westward in a Ty-foong, September 24th, 1803.

The depths in the channel betwixt these islands and Hainan Head, are from 10 to 17 fathoms; and there is in the western part of the channel, adjacent to Hainan, a high peaked island, called Feou-kieou.

ADDITIONAL DESCRIPTION of the SOUTH-EAST COAST of HAINAN.†

Geo. Site of South Point of Hainan.

HAINAN SOUTH POINT, is in lat. 18° 9′ 35″ N., lon. 109° 34′ 30″ E., bold, of rocky appearance, and may be seen 8 or 9 leagues in clear weather; about 8 or 9 miles South from it, the depths vary from 40 to 45 fathoms, mud and sand, gradually decreasing to 27 fathoms about l mile from the land.

Yulinkan Bay.

N.W. from the South Point, 1¼ mile, there is another rocky point, which forms the Southeast extreme of YULINKAN BAY (and in M. Omerat's Plan is called Point de la Take), the South-west extreme of which, is 4½ miles farther to the W. by N. About 1 mile to the northward of the South-east Point, and very near the eastern shore of the bay, there is a small island named Zonby, and 2 miles more to the N.W. a narrow passage leads to an extensive salt-water lake. The usual anchorage for ships is in 9 or 10 fathoms, on a mud and sand bottom, about ¾ of a mile to the N.W. of Zonby. The Discovery, in 8 fathoms, had Zonby bearing S. 40° E., the S.W. extreme of the bay nearly on with a point much nearer to us, bore S. 68° W., and the lake's entrance was distant about 1 mile. Yulinkan Bay cannot be a very safe anchorage in the S.W. monsoon, for it is exposed to the wind and swell from that quarter. A small ship may, however, proceed sufficiently into the lake, to ride in perfect security, and repair any damage. We saw no hidden dangers in the bay, excepting the small reefs that extend a short way off the shores. A ship going to enter the lake, must keep clear of a point of the reef, extending nearly 300 yards off the western shore, about a mile from the entrance; and when approaching the Eastern point of the passage, as the rocks extend from it nearly half channel over, she must keep close to the western point,

* Captain Ross made it in lon. 111° 16¾′ E.

† By Captain Daniel Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor in India, who observes, that the survey of this coast, was made on board the Company's surveying ships, Discovery and Investigator, in 1817, which commenced at Galong and Yulinkan Bays, where base lines were measured on the shore; after which, a chain of triangles was carried on from the Island East Brother to False Tinhosa, and in that space, three bases were measured by sound, and every care taken to render the survey correct.

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where are 5 and 6 fathoms water. The depth of water across the outer part of Yulinkan Bay, varies from 15 to 12 fathoms, and decreases gradually to the shore. We did not perceive any stream of fresh water in the vicinity of the anchorage, but observed some wells in a village, which is just at the back of the eastern point of the passage into the lake, and where bullocks may be obtained; it was on this point, our base-line was measured. The form of the bay as represented in M. Omerat's plan is correct, but we differ in the size of it; and instead of the latitude being 18° 16′, I make Zonby Isle in 18° 11′ 15″ N.

From the South point of Hainan, 2½ miles eastward, there is a black rocky point, or western extreme of Galong Bay, the eastern one being 5 miles farther to the eastward, situated a short way to the northward of two small islands, named Brothers.

Galong Bay.

GALONG BAY, is 3 miles deep, and there is an island about the middle of it, and several large dry rocks to the westward of the island. The usual anchorage for ships is between Middle Island and the eastern shore of the bay, in 8 fathoms water, over a sand and mud bottom. In the Discovery, we had the East Brother bearing S. 28° E., the Western one S. 4° W., and the two extremes of the bay S. 41¾° E. and S. 50° W., distant about ¾ mile off the eastern shore. At this station we experienced much swell with a S. E. wind, from which it appears to be, a very unpleasant anchorage during the S.W. monsoon. A small ship would find tolerable anchorage close on the North side of Middle Island, in 4 or 5 fathoms water, and be in some degree sheltered from swell; the deepest water is near the island, and the bottom muddy, but the depth decreases to 3 fathoms half-way towards the north shore of the bay, and the bottom is sandy. We did not perceive any good watering place about the anchorage; but a short distance westward of Middle Island, and a few yards from the beach, met with a large pond of fresh water, and saw many buffaloes and bullocks feeding near. We obtained plenty of fire-wood in a small cove near to the anchorage. The depth of water outside the Brothers varies from 25 to 21 fathoms, and within them it is from 15 to 12 fathoms, decreasing gradually to 6 or 8 at the anchorage. The passage between the S. E. point of Galong Bay and East Brother appears to be free of danger, as we did not get soundings in it, with 17 fathoms of line when thereabouts, in a boat.*

Geo. Site of East Brother.

East Brother, is in lat. 18° 11′ 20″ North, and in April, 1810, when we visited Hainan in search of the True Briton East-Indiaman, measured with good chronometers the difference of longitude between the East point of Tienpihen Harbour and the East Brother (the observations at both stations being taken on the shore with artificial horizon), and made it 1° 33′ 30″ W., which placed the island in longitude 109° 41′ 30″ E.: at the same time, made 1° 28′ 16″ W. by chronometers, between the East Brother and Turon watering place; and again, in 1817, by chronometers, made 39′ 40″ E. between Pulo Sapata and the East Brother.

Geo. Site of Luengsoy Bay.

LUENGSOY, LIEONG-SOY, (or LINGSOUI) Point, bearing N. 60° E. from the East Brother 23½ miles, is formed by several high hummocks, having a sandy plain to the northward; when seen at 5 or 6 leagues distance, the point appears like an island, the most southern part of which is in lat. 18° 22′ 30″ N., lon. 110° 0′ E. The coast between Luengsoy Point, and the eastern point of Galong Bay, forms a considerable concavity, with several sandy beaches and there are two small islands near the shore, in the western part of the curve or bay, one of which is in lat. 18° 16′ 30″ N., the other to the N. N. E. in 18° 19′ N., and they are too small to afford any shelter for ships between them and the shore. To the westward of the South part of Luengsoy Point 2 miles, lie several dry rocks, extending to the westward, about ¾ of a mile from another point; and about 1½ mile farther to the N. by W. of this last-mentioned point, there is a narrow and very shoal passage between two sandy points, which leads into an extensive salt-water lake. The Chinese have a small fort on the western

* It was on the sandy beach, to the northward of Middle Island, that our base line was measured.

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point, and the number of small junks at anchor near it, indicate some place of trade on, or near the lake; although in 1810, upon landing at the fort, only a few fishing huts about it, could be discerned.

There is no anchorage between Luengsoy and Galong, where a ship could safely ride in the southerly monsoon. In the Discovery, at anchor in 17 fathoms water, the East Brother bore S. 48° 30′ W., Luengsoy South Point N. 88° E., and the Fort N. 37° 30′ E., distant about 3 miles. The depth of water at 10 or 11 miles to the S. of Luengsoy is about 50 fathoms, gradually decreasing to 17 fathoms, after which it decreases rapidly to 9 or 10 fathoms, and then regularly toward the beaches. The dry rocks before-mentioned are steep to, having 15 fathoms about ½ a mile from them, and the water is deep close around the whole of Luengsoy Point, as we had from 25 to 21 fathoms about a mile off.

Geo. Site of sail Rock.

SAIL ROCK, in lat. 18° 26′ 15″ N., lon. 110° 8′ E., bearing N. 56° 30′ E. from the S.E. part of Luengsoy Point, is a cluster of large rocks above water, and from one of them being higher and whiter than the others, it has acquired the name of Sail Rock; they are 4 miles off the coast, and apparently bold to approach, having 32 fathoms water about 2 miles to the southward. The South point of Tinhosa Island bears N. 55° 30′ E. distant 23½ miles from the Sail Rock.

Saddle Islands.

In latitude 18° 34′ 35″ N., and bearing N. 19° 30′ E. from the Sail Rock, distant 8¾ miles, and 1½ off the coast, there is an island having two hummocks on it, named Saddle Island.

Geo. Site of High Peak,

and of Nankin Island.

A point of land, in lat. 18° 40′ N., lon. 110° 24′ 15″ E., and 3½ miles to the westward of Tinhosa Island, is the northern extremity of a considerable curve or bay which the coast forms to the westward, between this point and Luengsoy Point, and in which many sandy beaches may be seen, and very high land near the shores. We made the highest peak in lat. 18° 36′ 10″ N., lon. 110° 6′ 45″ E., which is about 2 miles in shore, and may be seen 12 or 14 leagues off; when it bears N. 71° W. it is over Saddle Island. Besides Saddle Island, and the Sail Rock, there are two other islands situated on this part of the coast, one of which, called Nankin or Nanqueen, in the old charts, is in lat. 18° 38′ 20″ N., lon. 110° 20′ 45″ E.; the other is 4 miles to the westward of Nankin, and both are about 1½ mile off shore: they are too small to afford any shelter behind them from the swell, although the depth of water about them is moderate, being from 7 to 10 fathoms, and 2 miles to the southward, it varies from 12 to 16 fathoms, on a sand and mud bottom. From Luengsoy to the aforementioned point, the coast affords no safe anchorage in the southerly monsoon.

Geo. Site of Tinhosa Island.

TINHOSA ISLAND, extends 2½ miles in a North and South direction, formed by two high hills, which are connected by a very narrow sand overflowed at spring tides; the southern hill is highest, and its summit is in lat. 18° 39′ 42″ N., lon. 110° 28′ 15″ E., determined by the angles from the East Brother. In 1810, by chronometers, made 45′ 53″ West difference of longitude between Tienpihen Point and this hill; again in 1817, made 59′ 8″ between the hill and Chinchow Island, on the south coast of China. The channel between Tinhosa and Haitian is about 3 miles wide, and the depth of water varies from 9 to 14 fathoms, excepting on a spit of sands which extends about a mile from the West side of the North Hill of Tinhosa, and on which we found so little as 4¼ fathoms where we anchored, with Tinhosa bearing from N. 50° E. to S. 30° 50′ E. off it about half a mile, and Nankin Island bore S. 65° W. touching the point opposite to Tinhosa. The water was deeper near the island, where we had 5 fathoms. On the North of Tinhosa, the mid-channel depth is 14 fathoms, decreasing a little towards Hainan and the shore is not so high as to the southward. The depth of water at 7 or 8 miles to the South and East of Tinhosa, is about 55 fathoms, and the island appears to be quite free of danger, excepting a few rocks on the East side, close to the low sand which connects the two hills. We did not meet with fresh

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water on Tinhosa. Numerous amplitudes and azimuths, with two theodolites, taken on Tinhosa, made the mean variation of the needle by one theodolite 1° 31′ East, by the other 1° 32′ East, and by a large azimuth compass of Walker's 1′ 38′ East, nearly corresponding with the same number of observations taken on the Brother, where it was 1° 29′ East.

Geo. Site of False Tinhosa

FALSE TINHOSA, is a small rocky island, in lat. 18° 9′ 30″ N., lon 110° 34′ 15″ E., Which may be seen 7 or 8 leagues, and is situated about 2 miles to the N. N. E. of a point on Hainan, that forms the N. E. point of the bay or concavity of the coast on the North of Tinhosa Island; and from this point, the East coast of Hainan extends more in a north and south direction, and is not so mountainous as the S. E. part. The Discovery and Investigator passed between the coast and False Tinhosa in a good channel, and anchored near the latter, in 17 fathoms water, with it bearing from S. 30° 30′ E. to S. 54° E. and the dry rocks extending to S. 78° E. distant off False Tinhosa about ¼ of a mile, and 1¼ mile off the Hainan shore.*

Geo. Site of Toongeean Point.

There is a high mountain standing on a point of Hainan, which is named Toongeean by the Chinese, and may be seen 14 or 15 leagues off; and from there being no other high land in its vicinity, may be taken for an island. The point near which it stands, forms the northern termination of a slight curve which the coast forms to the southward, as far as the point opposite to False Tinhosa. We made the mountain in lon. 110° 59′ 20″ E., but were disappointed of an observation for latitude, and have placed it in 19° 37′ N. by carefully measuring, with both the common and patent logs, the ship's run from where it bore West, to where we anchored off the North Taya Islands, seven hours after, and got good observations for latitude. The point on which the mountain stands is in lat. 19° 35′ N., lon. 111° 2′ 20″ E., and the depth of water was from 18 to 20 fathoms about 2½ miles off it, on a foul bottom, and 38 and 40 fathoms 4 or 5 leagues off.

Taya Island.

Geo. Site.

May 15th, at noon, we were in 21 fathoms water, with the South Taya Island bearing East, distant 7 or 8 miles; the largest island of the southern group bore N. 79° E., and the North Taya Island bore N. 61* E.; we were about 6 or 7 miles off the Hainan shore, which to the northward of Toongeean point, is very low and sandy, without cultivation. We made 10½ miles of Northing and 10½ wiles of Easting to our anchorage off the North Taya Island, where we observed in lat. 19° 59′ 30″ N., and by chronometers were 47′ 52″ East of Tinhosa Hill, and 12′ 17″ West of Chinchow Island, on the coast of China, which placed the ship in 111° 16′ 5″, E. The North Taya Island bore S. 35° 12′ E., distant 1 mile; another smaller one near it S. 3° 30′ E., and the southern island of the north group bore S. 5° 55′ W. The South Taya Island bole S. 19° 22′ W. distant 10 or 11 miles; the largest island of the southern group bore S. 13° 15′ W., and the western island bore S. 35° 25′ W. 6 or 7 miles. The high mountain of Toongeean bore S. 33° 28′ W., and a very distant hummock in shore on Hainan, bore S. 33° 30′ W. Between the North Taya Island and the next one to it, there is a rock, over which the sea just washes. The Taya Islands form two groups, with a passage 4 or 5 miles wide between them, and they may be seen 4 or 5 leagues. We found from 21 to 29 fathoms water to the westward of them, 35 fathoms about 4 or 5 miles to the South, and the same depth about 1 mile to the North of them. The North Taya Island is in lat. 19° 58′ 45″ N., lon. 111° 16′ 45″ E.; the South Taya Island in lat. 19° 49′ N., lon.

* When hereabouts, the weather became very unsettled, and put a stop to our making more particular observations on the coast, obliging us to stand off and on, for three or four days, when we proceeded to the Taya Islands, and thence in search of the shoal in the Bashee Channel. But from my own observation when we were near the shore, and from the information of a very good Chinese pilot we had on board the Antelope in 1810, it appears that the East coast of Hainan does not furnish any place of safety for a ship to anchor in, and the bottom was in many places mixed with coral rock.—The land is better cultivated than to the southward, and from the number of cocoa-nut trees I conclude it is from this part of Hainan that the Chinese procure the coir, of which they make the ropes; it is blacker than the Indian coir, and not so durable.

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111° 12′ 15″ E. The North Island bears from the Grand Ladrone S. 46° 30′ W. distant 174 miles.*

PARACELS, and the BANKS or DANGERS in the NORTHERN PART of the CHINA SEA.

General description of the Paracels.

PARACELS, delineated formerly as a continued large bank, interspersed with groups of large and small islands, extending North and South from lat. 12° to about 16½° or 17° N., with the nearest part of it, within 15 to 20 leagues of the coast of Cochin-China. Other shoals and islands, called Amphitrite, Lincoln, &c. were placed nearly 3° farther to the eastward, with a wide space between them and the former bank; but it is now certain, that all these dangers form only one archipelago, consisting of shoals and low isles, not far separated. This will be seen by the following description of them, taken from the survey made by Capts. Ross and Maughan, of the Bombay Marine.

North Shoal.

Geo. Site.

NORTH SHOAL, extending E. by N. and W. by S. about 2 leagues, is narrow and steep to, having soundings only on the North side, 14 fathoms within ½ a cable's length of the rocks: the East end of this shoal or reef, is in lat. 17° 6′ N., lon. 111° 32½′ E., and it appears to be the N. Westernmost danger of the Paracels.

Amphitrite.

Geo. Site.

AMPHITRITE, is formed of five low narrow islands, connected by a reef of rocks that projects 2 or 3 miles beyond their extremes; and upon the westernmost island, there is a cocoa-nut tree. The western extremity of this danger is in lat. 16° 59′ N., lon. 112° 12′ E., and it extends about 4 leagues E. S. E., the eastern extremity being in lat. 16° 54′ N., lon. 112° 23′ E.; it forms the northern limit of danger, in this part of the Archipelago.

There are no soundings on the North side, but good anchorage in 10 fathoms sand, is got under the S. E. side of the chain, about ½ a mile from the rocks: no fresh water is procurable.

Geo. Site of Woody

WOODY ISLAND, in lat. 16° 50′ N., lon. 112° 18′ E., is about 3 miles in circumference, covered with small trees, and has a spring of very good water on its western side, near some cocoa-nut trees. A reef projects around this island to the distance of ¾ of a mile, connected with Rocky Island.

* In the few communications we had with the people on Hainan, they were found to be civil, and ready enough to part with refreshments when the Mandarins were not present; but whenever the latter appeared, they proved just as arbitrary and rapacious as we found them on the coast of China. From what I observed, I am inclined to believe that a number of bullocks may be obtained on Hainan, as they appeared to be plentiful, although small. There are numerous fishing boats belonging to Hainan, that are built of a very hard and heavy wood (instead of the fir which the Chinese boats are built with), and sail fast; many of them every year go on fishing voyages for two months, and navigate to seven or eight hundred miles from home, to collect the bicho de mer, and procure dried turtle and sharks' fins, which they find amongst the numerous shoals and sand banks that are in the South-east part of the China sea. Their voyages commence in March, when they visit the Northern Banks, and leaving one or two of their crew and a few jars of fresh water, the boats proceed to some of the large shoals that are nearly in the vicinity of Borneo, and continue to fish until the early part of June, when they return and pick up their small parties and their collections. We met with many of these fishing boats when we were about the shoals in the China sea.

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and Rocky Islands.

ROCKY ISLAND, in lat. 16° 52′ N., lon. 112° 20′ E. is small, and nearly of the same height as Woody Island; there are no soundings to the N. E. or eastward of it, but irregular soundings extend 6 miles to the S. Westward of these islands, decreasing to 14 fathoms in some places. Close to the reef on the West side of Woody Island, there are 25 fathoms; and the depths decrease gradually from 30, to 15 fathoms toward the Amphitrite, where a vessel may anchor, if requisite.

Geo. Site of Lincoln Island,

LINCOLN ISLAND, in lat. 16° 40′ N., lon. 112° 42′ E., is about 3 miles in circuit, enveloped with a reef to the distance of a mile; it is low, covered with small brush wood, and has a spring of excellent water, near to three cocoa-nut trees in its centre. There are 20 fathoms close to the rocks at the South and West sides, and the soundings appear to extend about 2 miles off, but the water is deep on the East side. This is the easternmost island of the Paracels.

and Pyramid Rock.

PYRAMID ROCK, in lat. 16° 36′ N., lon. 112° 37′ E., about 6 miles to the S. W. of Lincoln Island, has no soundings close to; but the pilot said, that soundings were continued in a narrow line, from the South part of Lincoln Island to the shoal seen by the ship Bombay Merchant, in 1800.

Geo. Site of Bombay's Shoal.

Geo. Site of Jehanghire's bank.

BOMBAY'S SHOAL, in lat. 16° 0′ to 16° 6′ N., lon. 112° 26′ to 112° 38′ E. by lunar observations and chronometers, is a reef of breakers of oblong form, about 4 leagues in extent E. by N. and W. by S., having an entrance apparently at the West part, with deep water inside: some of the rocks are level with the water, and have sandy patches on the inside of them. This shoal is steep to, for at ¾ mile off the South side, the Bombay had no ground with 100 fathoms line; and close around it. Capt. Ross in his survey, got no ground. It seems to bear about South from Pyramid Rock, for although the Bombay, by chronometer, made it several miles more easterly than the longitude stated above from the survey of Capt. Ross, it probably is not so; because the Jehangire observed at noon, October 25th, 1806, in lat. 16° 5′ N., lon. 112° 52′ E. by good chronometer, and no danger could be discerned from the mast head. On the following day this ship got upon a CORAL BANK, in lat. 16° 8′ N., lon. 112° 35′ E., and had 12, 10, and 9½ fathoms; next cast 30, and in less than an hour had no ground, drifting to the S. Eastward by the lead, being calm at the time. This seems to corroborate with the account of the pilot mentioned above, that there are soundings on coral banks, in a line between Lincoln Island and the Bombay's Shoal; which, with those dangers, form the eastern boundary of the Paracels.

Geo. Site of Crescent Chain.

CRESCENT CHAIN, of islands and reefs, called (by Capt. Ross) Money's, Robert's, Pattle's, Drummond's, and Governor Duncan's Islands, extends from lat. 16° 27′ to 16° 32′ N., and from lon. 111° 29′ to 111° 44′ E. They consist of six low sandy islands, connected by reefs, stretching nearly East and West in the form of a crescent; at the East end of which, an elbow is formed, by part of the reef turning round to the S. Westward; on this part, stands Governor Duncan's Islands, two in number, with an opening of 4 miles wide, betwixt their contiguous reef and that projecting around Money's Island, which forms the western extreme. This opening is on the South side of the chain, and inside there are soundings; but the ground is chiefly coral, with great overfalls from 25 to 5 fathoms. The best anchorage is close to the reef, on the North side of Governor Duncan's Islands, where there was some broad patches of sandy bottom. Betwixt Governor Duncan's Islands, and Drummond's Island, which lies next them to the eastward, there is a narrow passage with soundings of 14 and 12 fathoms; but it ought not to be attempted in a large vessel. On the South sides of these three islands, no soundings are obtained.

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Geo. Site of Observation Bank.

OBSERVATION BANK, in lat. 16° 35′ N., lon. 111° 40½′ E. is small, situated on the North side of the Crescent Chain last mentioned; and may be considered as part of it.

Geo. Site of Discovery Shoal.

DISCOVERY SHOAL, or REEF, extends from the West end, in lat. 16° 11′ N., lon. 111° 3½′ E., about E. by N. 5¼ leagues, its eastern extremity being in lat. 16° 16′ N., lon. 111° 46½′ E. This long and dangerous reef, is of the shape of an extended oval, with an opening of one cable's length on its South side, having in it overfalls from 2 to 20 fathoms; and there is a small opening on the North side. There are no soundings about 20 yards from the reef, and scarcely 2 fathoms water over any part of it, with many spiral rocks a few feet above the water's edge. The Hainan boats come here to fish, from January to May.

Geo. Site of Vulador's Shoal.

VULADOR'S SHOAL, extending E. by N. and W. by S. 7 miles, has a few small spiral rocks above water, with high breakers, and no soundings at the distance of a cable's length on either side. Capt. Ross in his survey, makes the centre of this shoal in lat. 16° 18′ N., lon. 112° 2′ E.; the Portuguese Snow, Vulador, in her passage from Macao to Manilla, saw it, July 21st, 1807, and by chronometer made it in lat. 16° 19′ N., lon. 112° 5′ E., bearing S. 15° W. from Amphitrite Islands, distant 39 miles. She had passed to the westward of these islands on the preceding day, and in steering to the southward, had no soundings, nor did she see any other shoal, but that which has been named after her.

Geo. Site of Passoo Keah.

PASSOO KEAH, in lat. 16° 2′ N., lon. 111° 45′ E., is a small sandy island to the southward of the Discovery Shoal, surrounded by a coral reef, having no soundings near it.

Geo. Site of Triton's Island.

TRITON'S ISLAND, or BANK, in lat. 15° 46′ N., lon. 111° 11′ E. by chronometers, extends in a N.W. and S. E. direction about 3 or 4 miles, according to a plan of it sent to me by Captain Brown, of the Triton: the North part is a sandy lump about 20 feet high, sloping down in a low point to the S. Eastward, with high breakers projecting out a great way in that direction; another reef projects from its N.W. end, and, like the preceding dangers, there is no soundings near it.

This is thought to be the southernmost and westernmost danger of, the Paracels, and it bears from Pulo Canton, which is the nearest land of Cochin-China, E. 11° N., distant 122 miles.

Coral patches lately discovered.

In June, 1815, Capt. Maughan, in the Investigator, passed within ¼ mile of apparently some PATCHES OF CORAL, having, he supposed, about 6 or 8 fathoms water over them; but no soundings could be got with 110 fathoms line at that distance, and a boat could not be hoisted out to examine them, on account of the high sea and blowing weather. These patches, seen at 2 P. M., are situated in lat. 14° 12′ N., and in lon. 112° 52′ E. But it is uncertain, that they were real dangers.

Tides and currents.

At the Crescent Chain, and at some other of the Paracel Reefs, there are regular tides during the springs; the currents run generally strong before the wind in both monsoons, but in light winds between the monsoons, they are continually changing their direction amongst the shoals; ships ought, therefore, never to come within the limits of these dangers, if it can possibly be prevented, for they may be drifted upon some of the reefs during calms, close to which there is no anchorage. There are several channels betwixt the different reefs or shoals, from 4 or 5, to 10 and 12 leagues wide.

Macclesfield Bank.

Geo. Site.

MACCLESFIELD BANK, discovered by the English ship of this name, in 1701, is of greater extent than generally supposed, for the Fort St. David country ship, is said to have obtained soundings in lat. 15° 17′ N. on its southern part; and in lat. 16° 19′ N., by noon observation, the Stormont had 41 fathoms on its northern part, and about 1 mile farther to the southward she bad 14 fathoms water. The Cirencester had soundings in lat. 16° 21′ N.

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on its North end; the bank, therefore, appears to extend from lat. 15° 17′ to 16° 21′ N.: its extent East and West, is about 70 miles, the western edge being nearly on the meridian of the Grand Ladrone, and its eastern edge about 1° 10′ E. of that meridian, by chronometers. The depths on this bank are generally very irregular, from 25 or 30, to. 45 or 50 fathoms coral rock; and in some places, where the soundings are a little regular, the bottom is coarse, or fine sand. There appear to be gaps in some parts of the bank, where no ground is obtained, with 80 or 100 fathoms line; for several ships in steering directly over it, after getting ground, have lost soundings for a considerable time, and obtained them again. The Carron, in lat. 15° 27′ N., and 30 miles East of Grand Ladrone, by chronometers, had 13 fathoms coral rock, and in 10 minutes after, ho ground with 60 fathoms of line steering N. N. E. and North; after running 10 miles, she got ground 14 and 16 fathoms, and carried soundings of 35 to 44 fathoms, steering North 8 miles, and again lost ground; continued steering a North course 14 miles, and had no ground with 45 fathoms of line, until in lat. 16° 0′ N., she then carried soundings of 38 and 44 fathoms, steering 4 miles on the same course.

On the northern and eastern parts of the bank, there are level patches of considerable dimensions, with regular soundings from 9 to 15 fathoms, sandy bottom; there are also some patches on the southern and western parts, with 14 to 17 fathoms upon them. In lat. 15° 40′ N. on the meridian of the Grand Ladrone by chronometers, the Gunjavar had 13 and 14 fathoms water: in lat. 16° 10′ N., and 32 miles East of Grand Ladrone by chronometers, she had 10 fathoms coral: in lat. 15° 30′ N., and 26 miles East of Grand Ladrone by chronometers, she had 12½ fathoms; and in lat. 16° 5′ N., and 28 miles East of Grand Ladrone by chronometers, she had 10 fathoms coral rock, The Castlereagh, in lat. 15° 58′ N., and 7 miles East of Grand Ladrone by chronometers, had 14 fathoms, and in lat. 15° 43′ N., and 3 miles East of Grand Ladrone, she had 40 and 43 fathoms, all coral rock.

The greatest extent of the bank, East and West, appears to be near its northern extremity, for Captain Fraser had soundings 1° 8′ E. of Grand Ladrone by chronometer. In lat. 15° 56′ N. and 1° 8′ E, of Grand Ladrone, by chronometer, the Thetis had 11½ fathoms, and carried soundings 3 or 4 miles farther to the eastward, deepening to 20, 40, 60, and 75; then 80 fathoms no ground when 1° 12′ E. of Grand Ladrone.

The shoalest water, seems to be on the northern extremity of the bank; for in lat. 16° 19′ N., and 50 miles East from Grand Ladrone, by chronometers, corresponding with lunar observations, the Cirencester had ¼ less 10 fathoms, deepening gradually until in lat. 16° 21½′ N., then 55 fathoms no ground.

The American ship, Devotion, had 8¼ fathoms in lat. 16° 9′ N.; and the Milford had regular soundings of 8½ to 9 fathoms near an hour, steering to the N.Westward over the N. E. part of the bank.

It has been said, there are 5 or 6 fathoms water on some parts of the Macclesfield Bank; but the least water found on it, by indisputable information, appears to be 8 fathoms: and there probably may be rather less, on some small patches of the coral ridges. Although this bank seems free from danger at present, yet, by the progressive vegetation, and consolidation of the coral into rock, the shoalest patches may, in course of time, become so much elevated as to render them dangerous for large ships to pass over, when the sea runs high.

Between the Macclesfield Bank, and the eastern limit of the Paracels, it has been said, there are other coral banks, with soundings of various depths upon them; yet, in the space of about 16 leagues, comprehended between the western edge of the Macclesfield Bank, and the Bombay's Shoal, or N. Eastern limit of the Paracels, probably no soundings are to be obtained.

Scarborough Shoal.

Geo. Site.

SCARBOROUGH SHOAL, or MAROONA, on which the Scarborough struck in the night, September 12th, 1748, is a dangerous reef of rocks, A little more than mid-way from

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the Macclesfield Bank, toward the coast of Luconia. From the North end to the middle of the shoal, it is about 9½ miles in extent East and West, decreasing to a point at the South end, steep to, on all sides, having no soundings close to the rocks, of which only a few are seen above water, interspersed over different parts of the shoal. A frigate, sent by the Spanish Admiral from Manilla, surveyed it in April, 1800, and found it extend 8¾ miles North and South, or from lat. 15° 4′ to 15° 12¾′ N.; the East part 3° 6¾′ West, and the Western part 3° 16¼′ West from Manila, by chronometers; and the nearest part, distant 131 nautic miles from Point Capones. This makes the centre of the shoal in lon. 117° 48½′ E., Point Capones being in lon. 120° 3′ E. Captain T. Robertson, in the Cirencester, passed close to this shoal, October 20th, in the same year, and made it 8° 47′ E. of Pulo Sapata, by chronometers, or in lon. 117° 49½′ East.

St. Esprit Shoal.

ST. ESPRIT SHOAL, is very imperfectly known, both in respect to its situation and extent: and whether it is really dangerous, has not yet been ascertained beyond doubt. M. D. Apres, places the centre of it in lat. 19° 33′ N., and 55 miles West from the Grand Ladrone by account; being 6 leagues in diameter, with 9 to 15 fathoms on its southern part, and on the northern part, rocks even with the water's edge. Mr. Dalrymple has placed its centre in lat. 19° 6′ N., and 39 miles West of Grand Ladrone, from the Asseveido's account, which vessel discovered it on her passage from Macao to Manilla, May 17th, 1755. The Grosvenor sailed 2 miles on it, in 1765; she got upon its eastern part, had 6¾ fathoms, and saw several spots, with apparently less water; this ship's position of the shoal, and that assigned to it by the Asseviedo, agree with each other. A French ship had 8 fathoms on it in 1763; she agrees with the ships mentioned, in respect to its latitude, but states the bank to be small. The Milford, in 1789, got upon its eastern part; perceiving the rocks along side, sounded, had several casts of 8 fathoms, and suddenly got out of soundings, by hauling to the eastward: she steered N. by E., and made the Grand Ladrone bearing about N. E. by N.

Geo. Site by Capt. Ross.

Capt. Ross, in the Discovery, June 24th, 1813, steering eastward, got from 25 fathoms no ground, into 15 fathoms coral, and having ran about a mile, lost soundings. Steered back to the westward, and at 11 hours 55 minutes A. M. again got on the bank, and ran 3 miles across it, least water found was 10 fathoms. At noon, when in this depth, observed, the, lat. 19° 30′ 10″ N., lon. 113° 6′ E., or 38 miles West from Grand Ladrone by chronometers, in a run of 48 hours to that island.

This officer is of Opinion, that the bank is of small extent, that the report of dry rocks on it is erroneous, as the swell at this time was high, and would have produced breakers on any very shoal parts; whereas, no discoloured water was visible till in 10 fathoms, although the day was very clear. But strong ripplings broke on board the ship when in the vicinity of the bank, which might be mistaken for breakers by persons unacquainted.

The true situation of the St. Esprit Bank, here given by Capt. Ross, agrees nearly in latitude with De Apres' account, but differs 24 miles from that of the Asseviedo and Grosvenor, which gives some reason to apprehend, that two banks detached from each other, may possibly exist hereabout. The Althea, in 1806, passed close to discoloured water, in lat. 19° 36′ N., lon. 112° 17′ E., or 1° 48′ East of Tinhosa; she hauled off from it, but got no soundings in passing.

Pratas Shoal.

PRATAS, or PRATERS SHOAL, is of circular form, flattened on each side, with four obtuse points: it is composed of coral rock, level with the water's edge in many places; in other parts, there are from 2 to 8 feet water over the rocks. On the N.W. part, about 2 or 3 miles inside the edge of the reef, lies a low island formed of white coral, and of considerable size, covered with coarse grass and shrubs, which may be seen 3½ leagues from a large ship's deck; it is visible, when near the southern extremity of the shoal, but more conspicuous in approaching it from the West or Northward.

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The South part of the shoal, is a continued range of breakers steep to, extending W. N.W. and E. S. E.; the western side, stretches N. N.W. and S. S. E., and although the water appears very shoal on this part, the sea does not always break; the eastern side does not break when the sea is smooth, for the Eugenia, October 22d, 1805, was within 3 or 4 miles of this side at noon, before the shoal was discerned.* When the sea runs high, it appears, that breakers are seen mostly all round the exterior parts of the shoal: but inside, the water is smooth, of a green colour, and seems pretty deep in some places. Although it is steep to, in most parts, there appear to be several spots where a ship might find anchorage outside of the breakers, in a case of necessity, particularly on the West side; but the best anchorage is to the N.Westward of the island, where soundings project 2 or 3 miles from the edge of the shoal.

Geo. Site.

Several navigators by good chronometers, agree nearly, in making the South end of the shoal in lat. 20° 36½′ N.; North end in lat. 20° 52′ N.; East side in lon. 116° 52′ E.; West side in lon. 116° 41′ E.; and the body of the island, in lat. 20° 44′ N., lon. 116° 42′ E.

By good chronometers, Captain Mackintosh, made Pratas Island 1° 40½′ East of Pedro Branco, 2° 26½′ East of the East end of Great Lema, and 2° 54′ East of Grand Ladrone.

Capt. Ross, in the Discovery, with the Investigator in company, visited this shoal, August 28th, 1813; the first soundings got were 74 fathoms fine coral, about 1½ or 2 miles off the N. E. point, and a little beyond that distance, no ground. From hence, steered along the North side, about ¾ of a mile off the breakers, in soundings from 31 to 38 fathoms; the Investigator keeping about ¼ mile off, had great overfalls from 10 to 24 fathoms. After rounding the N.W. point about 1 mile off, in 35 fathoms rocky bottom, they anchored on the West side in 24 fathoms, with the island bearing from S. 39½° E. to S. 65½° E. off its West end about 1½ mile, N.W. point of the shoal N.N. E., distant 2 miles; and about half way between the ship and the shore, had 4 and 5 fathoms; then very shoal water.

On landing, there was found to be a deep inlet or harbour for boats on the West side of the island, which must afford shelter to the Chinese fishermen, who come here to fish in the early part of the year; and upon the island, was erected a Chinese Temple, by pieces of wreck, apparently that of a junk.

Geo. Site by Capt. Ross.

By observations taken on the island, Capt. Ross made it in lat. 20° 42′ 55″ N., lon. 116° 44¾′ E. North-east point of the shoal in lat. 20° 47′ N., lon. 116° 53¾′ E. North-west point in lat. 20° 45′ N., lon. 116° 42½′ E., and the ships anchorage on the western extreme, in lat. 20° 43′ N., lon. 116° 41¾′ E., which situations were fixed by three very good chronometers.

Pratas Island was found to bear from Pedro Branco S. 42¾° E., distant 130½; miles, and from the North end of the Great Lema S. 59° E., distant 157 miles.

The shoals which have been described in this section, are the only dangers situated in the northern part of the China Sea, at a considerable distance from land.

ISLANDS and HARBOURS on the SOUTH COAST of CHINA,† WESTWARD of CANTON RIVER, with SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Geo. Site of Now-chow.

NOW-CHOW, in lat. 20° 58′ N., lon. 110° 26′ E., bearing W. S.W. ½ S., about 17 leagues from Tien-pak, and situated at the N. E. part of the peninsula of Lui-chew-fu, is a

* The Frederic Adolphus, Swedish ship, was lost on the East side, September 4th, 1761, with the island bearing W. N.W., and several other ships have been wrecked on this dangerous shoal.

† Chiefly from the survey of that coast, by Captains Ross and Maughan.

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small port, dangerous to enter; but when in it, there is good shelter: This place was a rendezvous of the Ladrones, whose vessels anchored in great numbers, along side of the forts and town, their crews being part of the inhabitants. The Maria, a Portuguese ship, went into this place for water, and was captured by the Ladrones; ships ought not to go into the harbour, if not well armed.

Ou-Cheun.

OU-CHEUN, situated near a remarkable high bluff rocky mountain projecting from the main, considerably to the westward of Tien-pak, is a town with a channel leading to it; where is said to be a harbour, with water on the bar sufficient for a small ship.

The high bluff mountain bears from Sey-ho Point S. 84° W., and the coast to the westward of this mountain is low and sandy, scarcely visible from the mast-head in 10 fathoms water.

Tien-pak adjacent coast and islands.

Geo. Site.

TIEN-PAK, or TIEN-PE-HIEN, is the principal place on the South coast of China, where salt is made, and several hundred Junks are employed transporting it to Canton.

The high land on the N. E. side of the road, called Lintoa, has the appearance of a high round mountain, in coming from the eastward; it is separated from the other high land to the eastward, by an isthmus of white sand, and its southern extreme is called Sey-ho Point. From this point E. 12° S. 1¾ mile, and 1 mile distant from the high land, lies a reef of rocks on which the sea often breaks, having 11 fathoms close to, on the South side, with 7 fathoms regular soundings between it and the shore. From Sey-ho Point, S. 41° W., about ½ a mile, Pauk-pyah, a large rock of white aspect is situated, having between it and the point, 6 and 7 fathoms water. Foonb ky-chy, a small island, lies about 1¾ mile to the westward of Pauk-pyah. Ty-foong-kyoh, about 2¼ miles to the S.Westward of the latter, is of considerable height, being the outermost island of the road, situated in lat. 12° 22½′ N., lon. 111° 13′ E., or 2° 31′ West from Grand Ladrone by chronometer.

Direction for sailing into the road.

A small ship in want of shelter from a N. E. or East gale, may keep near the reef of rocks to the eastward of Sye-ho Point, then between the point and Pauk-pyah, and anchor in 4 fathoms sand and mud, about of a mile to the westward of the point, with Pauk-pyah bearing S. 3° E., and a pagoda on the high land near Sye-ho Point N. 63° E. She must not go farther to the northward, for the bay is very shoal in that direction, with a rock in it above water.

Large ships ought to pass about 1 mile to the southward of Pauk-pyah and Foong-ky-chy, in 7 or 8 fathoms water, and anchor in 6 fathoms between the latter and Ty-foong-kyoh, or rather a little inside of this island, which will shelter them from S.W. winds; and Foongky-chy, and Sye-ho Point, will break the force of the N. E. and East winds. From the N.W. side of Ty-foong-kyoh, there projects a shoal bank with only 2¼ fathoms; but directly inside of its North point, there are 6 and 6½ fathoms soft bottom.

Tien-pak Harbour, being very small, and the bar situated about 1 mile to the N. N. E. of Foong-ky-chy, having only 3½ fathoms on it at high water, ships ought not to go into it, unless they are in want of immediate repairs. When at anchor in the road, the coast from Sye-ho Point to the remarkable bluff distant hill to the westward, appears as one deep bay with a sandy beach, having high back land, and the entrance of the harbour is not easily discerned.

If a ship intend to go in, she should anchor in 4½ fathoms mud, between the North side of Foong-ky-chy and the bar, to be ready to cross over at high water. To approach this anchorage, coming from Sye-ho Point or from Pauk-pyah, two sunken rocks must be avoided, which lie between the latter and Foong-ky-chy, with 5 fathoms water close to them: they bear from Pauk-pyah N. 79° W., and from Sye-ho Point S. 77° W.; it is, therefore, advisable, to keep the highest part of this point bearing East, in passing to the anchorage at the bar.

VOL. II. P P

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On the N.W. end of Foong-ky-chy, there is a small sharp hummock, which having brought to bear S. S.W., a vessel may steer on the opposite point toward the bar, and will shoal gradually. The best guide, after getting over it a little way, is, for a person at the masthead, to direct the course up channel between the two dry sands; or if covered, to keep a boat on each side. The channel is not more than ½ a mile wide, and in it the depth increases from the bar, to 7 fathoms mud close to a low point of sand, that forms the S.E. side of the harbour; and here, a vessel is sheltered from all winds: this point is distant 2 miles from the bar, and bears from the small brow of Foono ky-chy N. 28° E.

The channel decreases in depth to 2½ fathoms, where the salt Junks lie close to the salt pans, about 2½ miles to the northward of the low sandy point, the site of a village, protected by small forts on each side of the harbour.

Tien-pak City.

To the N. Westward of the bar about 1¾ mile, lies Marble Rock, and near 4 miles more to the westward, there is a reef of black rocks; neither of these can be approached, the water being very shoal on that side of the bar. The tide rises 8½ feet on the bar at full and change of the moon; high water at 12 hours. After the 1st of September, there is almost a constant westerly current along this coast, running from ½ a mile to 1½ mile per hour. TIEN-PAK CITY, is walled round, and of considerable extent; it lies at the bottom of the shoal bay on the N. E. side of the harbour, and can only be approached in boats at high water, through creeks that intersect the extensive flat situated between it and the anchorage. A ship touching, here in distress, may procure temporary masts, and get iron work done in the city; refreshments of all kinds may be got from the villages contiguous to the harbour. Some water may be obtained on the Island Ty-foong-kyoh, at a small spring near the shore; but the Chinese boats will bring it from the city, at a very moderate rate. It is prudent to send an officer to wait on the chief Mandarin, stating the supplies wanted, and a small present to himmay be useful. The Warley anchored off this place, September 27th, 1803, after being disabled in a Ty-foong, and got from the Mandarin, a pilot and 30 Chinese, to assist in working the ship to Macao; she worked close along the coast, and was from October 5th, to November 4th, getting, from Tien-pak to Macao.

Ty-Chook-Chow.

TY-CHOOK-CHOW, in lat. 21° 26′ N., about E. by N. from Sye-ho Point, and one league distant from the coast, has rocks on the North side, stretching to the N.W., and toward the coast; but there is anchorage on the West side of this island in 6 fathoms fine sand, about ¾ mile off Shore, where a ship will be sheltered from easterly winds: the soundings are 7 and 8 fathoms, betwixt it and the reef to the eastward of Sye-ho Point.

Chin-Chow.

CHIN-CHOW, bearing N. 63° E. from Ty-chook-chow, distant 5½ miles, is high, and covered with grass; it should not be approached on the South side nearer than 1½ or 2 miles, in 10 or 11 fathoms, for a reef of rocks projects S.¼ E. from it about ¾ of a mile, on which the sea generally breaks: close to the island on the East side, there are 8 fathoms foul ground; to the westward, between it and Ty-chook-chow, there are 7 and 8 fathoms gravelly bottom. The coast between these islands, forms a deep bay with shoal water, having on the East side a fort, and an inlet for boats, called Yue-tong, (or Fish Pass).

Geo. Site of Song-yue.

SONG-YUE POINT, in lat. 21° 31′ N.,' lon. 111° 40½′ E., bearing from Chin-chow E. 13° N. about 10 miles, is the S.Western extremity of the great bay, at the N. E. part of which Hai-ling Harbour is situated, and close to it there are 9 or 10 fathoms water. Approaching it from the eastward, three little hummocks appear near the point, with a long sandy beach between them and the high land: the bay on the West side is shoal, and Song-yue Town, stands at its N. Eastern angle. The Brothers, distant 3 miles N. N. E. from Song-yue Point, are two islets near the high land, having rocks projecting about a wile; but about 1 mile to the eastward of them, there are 8 fathoms water.

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Geo. Site of Hai-ling-shan;

HAI-LING-SHAN,* (called Huiling-san, by Captain Ross), extends E. N. E. and W. S.W. about 4 leagues, and is a high island, separated by a narrow passage from the coast on the North side, having an extensive shoal bay to the N. Eastward, and the harbour is on the West side. Two small islands, by some persons called TWINS, and by the Chinese, MAMEE-CHOW,† bear from Song-yue Point E. 17° N. distant 10 miles; and are situated in lat. 21° 34′ N., lon. 111° 50′ E. close to the S.W. point of Hai-ling-shan, being united to it by a reef and sand-bank. They form the outer point of Hai-ling Harbour, and in coming from the eastward, being on with each other, appear as a single island.

Directions for sailing into the harbour.

To sail into the harbour, if coming from the eastward, pass about ¼ mile on the South side of Mamee-chow, in 8 fathoms water, and round them about the distance of a cable's length in 7 fathoms. On the brow of the western one, there is a remarkable stone, and N. 7° W. from it 1200 yards, lies a sand bank, having only 2¼ fathoms on it at low water spring tides. From the same stone, Deep-water Point bears N. 26° E., distant 1400 yards, and the space between it and Mamee-chow, is dry at low water. Having rounded the western Mamee-Chow, steer direct for Deep-water Point, which pass at rather less distance than a cable's length, for the edge of the 2¼ fathoms bank is within 2½ cables' lengths of it.

From Mamee-chow, the depths are 7 and 8 fathoms, until they increase suddenly to 9 and 10 fathoms near Deep-water Point. From this point N. 32° E., distant 2170 yards, there is a small hill covered with trees, and a fort on its summit, not easily discerned: steer from Deep-water Point direct for the fort, until abreast of Teep-chow, a small island about mid-way between them. After passing the point, the depth will suddenly decrease to 6, then to 5 fathoms near Teep-chow, to the westward of which, about ¼ mile distant, large ships should anchor with the fort bearing N. E. by N. The anchorage is rather confined for more than two large ships; and although this harbour is safe, it should only be resorted to by ships of large size, in a case of necessity.

The bay between Teep-chow and Deep-water Point, has only 2½ fathoms water in it; here, adjacent to a small joss house in ruins, fresh water may be procured.

The harbour for small vessels, is in the bay formed between Teep-chow and the fort, where the depths are 8 and 9 feet; the village Chino is situated in this bay, where water and refreshments are obtained; carpenters, and caulkers, may be got to work on Ward, and smith's work can be executed at the village.

About ½ a mile westward from Teep-chow, the water is shoal, over a sandy bottom; and deepens again in a narrow gap, to the westward of which there are breakers, about 1¼ mile distant from the fort. There is a small peaked islet about 2 miles N. 13½° E. from the fort, and between them some rocks, dry at low water; a ship should not pass the fort, the water to the northward being shoal.

The 24 fathoms bank is small, and steep to the East side; it hears from the fort S. 44½° W., and from Deep-water Point W. 8° S. On the N.W. extreme of Hai-ling-shan, there is a small peaked hill, bearing from Deep-water Point N. 21½° E., distant about 4 miles; when this peaked hill and peaked islet are in one bearing N. 28¼° E., the 2¼ fathoms bank is on the same line of bearing. A small ship may pass to the westward of the bank, in 4 fathoms sandy bottom, but not advisable for a large one.

The tides are sufficiently strong to admit a ship to back and fill, from Mamee-chow to the anchorage, as the channel is too narrow for working. It is high water about 8½ hours on full and change of the moon, at the anchorage, and the tide rises from 7 to 8 feet. The harbour may be considered safe for ships of any size, being sheltered by Mamee-chow Point, and Mount-Look-Out (740 feet high) from southerly winds; by the other high land of the island from easterly and N. E. winds; and by the high land of Koan on the opposite coast, from westerly winds. The West side of the bay, between Mamee-chow and the Brothers,

* Hai, is literally sea; and Shan, a high island or mountain, in the Chinese language.

† This signifies Breasts or Paps, as Chow does an islet or small isle.

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should not be approached under 5 fathoms, the bottom being sandy, with shoal water under that depth.

Bluff Point, and the South side of the island.

BLUFF POINT, bearing E. 9° N., 3 miles from Mamee-chow, is high, and has 9 and 10 fathoms water close to it; between them, the land is cultivated, and forms a bay. To the eastward of Bluff Point, the land forms a small concavity fronted by a large sandy beach; and 4 miles E. 23½° N. from that point, there are two rocky islets close together, appearing as three small hummocks, which may be passed at the distance of a mile in 7 or 8 fathoms. A little inland from these, stands Sugar-loaf Hill, which does not shew its peak when seen to the eastward of Bluff Point.

Close to the East point of Hai-ling-shan, and bearing E. 17½° N., distant 5½ miles from the two rocky islets, there is a small island, having 7 fathoms close to it, and to the East end of Hai-ling-shan; but S.W. by S. 1¼ mile from the small island, there is a reef of rocks nearly covered at high water, which has 6 fathoms close to, and may be passed about a mile off, in 7 or 8 fathoms. On the East part of Hai-ling-shan, and contiguous to the sea, there is a remarkable patch of red sand, discernible when off the Mandarin's Cap.

Geo. Site of Ty-oa Point and Bay.

TY-OA POINT and BAY, about 5½ leagues to the E.N. Eastward of the East end of Hai-lines shan, and bearing from the Mandarin's Cap N.24½° W., distant 16½ miles, is in lat. 21° 43′ N., lon. 112° 15′ E. The depths decrease regularly coming from the Mandarin's Cap, to 4¼ fathoms at low water, close to Ty-oa Point; inside of the point, and in the extensive bay to the N.W., the water is shoal. Ty-oa Village, is round within the point, and the residence of a Mandarin; here, a large ship might procure water, or get a letter forwarded to Canton, but the water is too shoal to anchor under shelter of the point, except for small vessels. There is a white building amongst some trees, onr an elevated point a little inside of Ty-oa Point, by which the approach-from the southward to this place may be known. A small vessel may anchor within ½ a mile of the point in 3 or 3¼ fathoms at low water, and be sheltered from easterly winds; but she must not go near the island that lies a little inside, as some rocks covered at high water, with 4 fathoms close to them, project to the southward of it, and bear from Ty-oa Point W. 8½° N., distant 1¼ mile. Close to the town there are 2½ fathoms water, where the Salt Junks take shelter when chased by the Ladrones, and are protected by two old batteries.

The following islands and rocks, are interspersed over the space of sea comprehended between Hai-ling-shan and Haw-cheun.

Geo. Site of Mandarin's Cap.

Currents.

MANDARIN'S CAP, called FAN-SHEE-AK* by the Chinese, in lat. 21° 28′ N., lon. 112° 22½′ E., is a barren rock of white appearance, about 200 feet high, converging gradually to the summit, and terminating in a sharp peak: near it, to the northward, lie two other rocks, one of which is very small. From the Mandarin's Cap, Nam-oa Harbour bears N. E. by E., distant 13 miles, and the South end of St. John's E. 14½° N. near 8 leagues. On the South and West sides, there are 15 and 16 fathoms mud bottom within a cable's length of the rock, and 13 fathoms a little to the northward. Off these rocks in August and September, when easterly winds frequently prevail, the current sometimes sets to the westward 3 miles per hour; abating only to 1½ mile per hour, when the tide should be setting to the eastward. The westerly current prevails constantly along this coast during the easterly monsoon, and frequently in the S. W. monsoon; particularly, if the wind veer to the eastward.

Nam-Pang.

NAM-PANG, bearing N. 63° W., distant 10½ miles from the Mandarin's Cap, being the next island to it, is high at the West end, and about 1½ mile in length; on the North

* i. e. White Rock.

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side, a small bay nearly separates the island into two parts. It is safe to approach, having 9 and 10 fathoms near the shore all round, but it is destitute of fresh water.

Round Island.

ROUND ISLAND, bearing West 3½ miles from Nam-pang, is small, and named from its appearance: to the S. S.Westward of it about 2 miles, there are two rocks above water, with 10 fathoms depth betwixt them and the island, and no hidden danger.

Quoin.

QUOIN, is an islet resembling a gunner's quoin, situated close to the East side of Nee-wok, and 2¾ miles to the N. N.W. of Nam-pang; the passage between it and the latter, has 8 and 9 fathoms water in it, clear of danger.

Nee-wok.

NEE-WOK, is an island of moderate height, about a mile in length, bearing from Nam-pang N. 34° W. about 3½ miles; there is a small rock above water, betwixt it and the Quoin, but no other danger; the depths being 8 and 9 fathoms close to it all round.

Ty-wok.

TY-WOK, in lat. 21° 39′ N., about 1½ mile N. N.W. from Nee-wok, and the N.Westernmost of these islands, is high, appearing like a saddle when viewed from S.Westward. There is a little bay on its North side, where fresh water can be procured, to the westward of a small temple near the beach. There are 8 fathoms soft bottom, in the passage between this island and Nee-wok; and S.W. by S. 1 mile from Ty-wok, and N. 49° W. from the summit of Nam-pang, there is a rock nearly level with the surface of the water, with 7 fathoms all round. It is generally visible 3 or 4 feet above water, and the sea always breaking upon it renders it conspicuous in passing. The depths between Ty-wok and the East end of Hai-ling-shan, from which it is distant 7 miles, are 7 and 8 fathoms; and to the N. Eastward, betwixt it and Ty-oa Point, they are 5 and 6 fathoms.

Geo. Site of Mong-chow;

MONG-CHOW, in lat. 21° 39′ N., lon. 112° 29′ E., situated at a short distance westward from Haw-cheun, and bearing N. N. E. from the Mandarin's Cap 11¼ miles, is a high island about 2½ miles in length, covered with verdure: there is a town, near its summit, which is only discernible from the S. Eastward; and at a short distance from the South side of the island, lies a high rock with 4 fathoms close to; there are also some rocks off the N. E. point.

Small vessels may anchor in 3 fathoms at low water, on the West side of this island, during easterly winds; and fresh water may be procured at a small beach on that side, near the South point. Between the North end of the island and the coast, the water is very shoal, and there are only 2 fathoms at low water, in the channel betwixt it and Haw-cheun; but the bottom is all soft, with a very regular decrease in depth, from the Mandarin's Cap to these islands.

Geo. Site of Haw-Cheun.

HAW-CHEUN, or FALSE ST. JOHN'S, is a high island extending N. E. and S.W. about 11 miles. The S.W. end, in lat. 21° 35′ N.; lon. 112° 31½′ E. is a bluff point, having 7 and 8 fathoms water close to, and bears W. 5° N. from the South end of St. John's, distant about 14 miles. Close round this point on the West side, there are two small bays with sandy beaches, having 3½ fathoms water, where small vessels may take shelter. A large ship is well sheltered from easterly winds, by anchoring in 5 or 6 fathoms soft mud, about a mile off; in the Gunjavar, in 1787, we anchored here in 6½ fathoms, about 1½ mile off shore, with the South point of Haw-cheun bearing S. E. by S., the village Ty-han E. N. E. ½ N., observed lat. 21° 36′ N. At this village, a few bullocks and other refreshments may be procured, and fresh water in the southernmost small bay. This anchorage is generally called Haw-cheun Road, or Bay.

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Nam-oa Harbour.

Geo. Site of Passage Island.

NAM-OA HARBOUR (or Haw-cheun harbour), named from the village Nam-oa, situated therein; is formed between the S.W. end of Haw-cheun, and Nam-oa Island, a little to the eastward, which fronts the South end of Haw-cheun. Although rather small, this harbour is safe and convenient for refitting a ship, after being disabled by a Ty-foong, or otherwise requiring shelter. The South or large entrance, betwixt Nam-oa Island and the high bluff S. W. point of Haw-cheun, is ¾ of a mile wide; having an islet on the East side called Passage Island, joined to the West point of Nam-oa Island by a few rocks. Passage Island is in the same latitude as the S.W. point of Haw-cheun, 21° 35′ N., and in lon. 112° 3½′ E. by chronometers from Macao. This South entrance, is about 1½ mile eastward of the high bluff S.W. point of Haw-cheun, and is preferable to the eastern entrance for ships drawing above 16 feet water; having 6 fathoms in it, gradually decreasing to the sandy beach at the village fronting it, and no danger whatever. With an easterly wind, the best anchorage for a large ship, is about half way between Passage Island and Green Point on Nam-oa Island, which has a round mount on it covered with grass, and forms the N.W. point of the island; here, she will have 4½ or 5 fathoms soft mud at low water, according as her birth is near to, or farther from Nam-oa Island. She will be sheltered by this island (548 feet high) to the eastward, and by the high land of Haw-cheun to the northward, round to the S.W.; from whence, if it blow strong, a long ground swell rolls in, rendering it necessary to move farther in, to the western part of the harbour, where is 4½ to 4 fathoms mud, at low water.

The eastern entrance, formed betwixt Nam-oa Island and the S. E. part of Haw-cheun, has 4½ fathoms, gradually decreasing inside to 3½ fathoms at low water spring tides; and although it is the most contracted of the two, will be found very convenient for small ships. The best birth here for a small ship, is abreast of the sandy beach on Nam-oa Island, which forms Green Point; not so far in as to open the South entrance, but to see it over the narrow neck of that point. In this birth, she will have 3 fathoms at low water spring tides, be in a good situation to protect her boats when watering; and although exposed to the wind between E. N. E. and E. by S., no swell of consequence can roll in, being prevented by the islands that lie contiguous to the entrance.

To sail to the harbour by the eastern entrance.

TO ENTER the harbour by this channel, coming from the eastward; after rounding the South end of St. John's pretty close, steer about W. by N., or more northerly if the ebb is running, which course will bring a vessel near the Boat Rock, that bears from St. John's South Point W. 9½° N., distant 7 miles: it has 7 fathoms water close to, is about the size of a small boat, never entirely covered, and the sea generally breaks on it. To the northward of this rock about ¾ of a mile, lies Round Island, being the southernmost of a chain of rocky islets, that fronts the East side of Haw-cheun. Having passed to the southward of the Boat Rock at a small distance, steer from it about W. N.W. for the entrance of the harbour, distant 3 miles. From the S. E. part of Nam-oa Island, a few rocks project about ¼ mile, which have 7 fahoms close to them, and must be left to the southward, in entering the harbour.

Watering place.

There are several watering places about the harbour, the largest and most convenient of which, is in a. sandy bay on Haw-cheun, bearing from Green Point N. N. E., where the water conies close to the beach.

Barren Island, about a mile to the northward of Green Point, has a white conical rock inside of it; they are connected with Haw-cheun at low water, and separate Watering Bay from Nam-oa Bay, where the village* of this name, consisting of about 100 brick houses, is

* Strangers landing here, or at similar places where there is no Fort nor Mandarin residing, ought to be on their guard, in case of meeting with any of the crews of the Ladrone boats; for they frequently land, and put the defenceless villages under contribution, and are liable to make prisoners of Europeans, when that can be done with safety, in hope of getting a large sum for their ransom. There are, however, at present, few pirates on the South coast of China.

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situated at a small distance from the shore. Here, a few refreshments, and fish, may be procured; but the surf renders the landing difficult, when the wind blows strong from the southward; it is then proper, to land to the eastward of Barren Island. About 10 hours, it is high water at full and change of the moon, the rise: of tide 7 to 8 feet; and then, a small drain of ebb sets out through each of the channels.

Five Islands on East side of Haw-cheun.

FIVE ISLANDS, fronting the East side of Haw-cheun, are mostly small, and bound the West side of the channel, formed between it and St. John's. Round Island, the southernmost of them, and the rock bearing S. by E. ½ E, nearly ¾ of a mile from, it, have been mentioned above; there are also other rocks, high above water, near it on the South side. The next island to the northward of Round Island, is the largest, high at each end, and nearly separated in the middle, with some rocks close to it on the East side. The third island is high, and covered with grass. The fourth, called Pi-pa-chow, is of middling height, covered with grass, having some rocks above water projecting off its South end; there arc 4½ fathoms water close to these rocks, and between them and the other island to the southward; and the same depth, close to the East side of Pi-pa-chow. The fifth or northernmost of these islands, lies nearest the Haw-cheun shore, with 4 fathoms at low water betwixt it and that shore. There is no hidden danger near these islands, and a ship drawing not more than 15 feet water, may either pass, or anchor between them and Haw-cheun, rather nearest to the islands: here, she will find good shelter, in 3 or 3½ fathoms soft ground, at low water, and be supplied with refreshments from the town of Haw-cheun, situated in a small bay fronting the islands.

All the space between these islands and St. John's, is clear from bidden dangers, with depths of 5 and 6 fathoms soft ground. The tides here, are strong in the springs, the ebb setting out, and the flood to the northward through the channel, and rise and fall about & feet. During the neaps they are weak, and much influenced by the winds.

Safe anchorage.

To the northward of the Five Islands, the depths decrease to 4½ and 5 fathoms, in a direct line toward the West point of St. John's, and continue the same in passing about mid-channel between this point and the island that lies off the N. E. end of Haw-cheun. Here, the channel is about a mile wide, which is the narrowest part, and where ships may be well sheltered during bad weather. Water may be got on St. John's, almost in every small bay. The entrance of the channel generally called St. John's Road or Bay, between the South part of St. John's and the Five Islands, is more open to blowing weather, for some ships at anchor there, have been obliged to cut their cables and put to sea; the Bombay, after cutting away her main-mast in a Ty-foong, to prevent being driven on the rocks,. was afterward obliged to cut from her anchors, and the pilot ran her on shore in the mud, upon the coast to the westward of Mong-chow; here, she remained one springs, and was obliged to take out part of her cargo before she floated.

St. John's, Island, the bays and adjacent dangers.

ST. JOHN'S ISLAND, or CHANG CHEUN-CHAM, in length about 5 leagues N. N. E. and S. S.W., has been generally considered as two islands; in coming from East or westward, the high land on each extremity appears separated by a large gap or vacant space, which on a near approach, is found to be a low narrow isthmus of sand, uniting the high land, and having a bay on each side.

On the East side of the island, the depths are 7 and 9 fathoms near it, and no hidden danger, excepting a small rock only visible at low water; it lies in 7 fathoms, nearly a mile off shore, and about 2 miles to the southward of the N. E. point of the island, opposite to a bluff point, from whence the land stretches to the S.Westward. Distant from the N. E. point of the island about ¾ of a mile, there are some rocks always above water, with a passage of 8 and 9 fathoms between them and the point; and to the northward of them, there are 5 and 6 fathoms. The North side of the island extends about 11 miles N. E. by E. and

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S.W. by W., having two small bays separated by a narrow peninsula; the western one called. Sam-chow-tong, or Three Island Bay, is largest, with several small islands in it, and only 2¾ fathoms wafer within the point; there is a village in this bay, where refreshments may be got. All this side of the island is free from danger, the depth generally between 4 and 5 fathoms near St. John's, decreasing gradually toward the land to the northward, which is distant 6 or 7 miles. The bottom is all very soft mud, and it seems probable, that the N. W. side of St. John's, is a safe place during a Ty-foong; should a ship drag her anchors and settle in the mud, the risk of sustaining damage cannot be great. Several ships drawing 19 or 20 feet water, are carried by the pilots betwixt Haw-cheun and St. John's, round the North end of the latter, and between the Great and Little Wizard Rocks. In April, 1787, we went through this channel in the Gunjavar, drawing 20 feet.

The large bay on the West side of St. John's, opposite to the sandy low isthmus, extends into the island a great way; but a ship cannot enter it, the water being shoal. From the West point of St. John's, which forms the North side of this bay, SHITTOE POINT bears S. 18° E., distant 4¾ miles, and separates it from Shittoe, or Sat-tye Bay, situated on the S. E. side of the latter point. This bay has 6 and 7 fathoms water at the entrance, and a small vessel may go farther in, and anchor in 4 or 3½ fathoms; but it is too narrow for a large ship, unless she were to warp in. There is a watering place at the South side of the entrance, and a village at the bottom of the bay; which with several others on the island, have suffered much from the depredations of the Ladrones, who often haul their vessels up here to clean their bottoms. Close to the islet, and detached rock off the N.W. point of the bay, there are 6 fathoms water.

Between Sat-tye Bay and the South point of St. John's, there is another small bay, having 6 fathoms in it, and 10 fathoms water close to some rocks, which lie off its South point.

Geo. Site of Way-caup.

WY-CAUP, a small high rocky island, in lat. 21° 34′ N. lon. 112° 47½′ E., fronts the South end of St. John's, and lies on the East side of the point, being separated from it by a very narrow passage: there are 13 and 14 fathoms close round this island, on the outside.

Lieu-chew.

LIEU-CHEW, in lat. 21° 36′ N. of moderate height and barren aspect (called also Ouchow), is separated from Wy-caup and the S. E. part of St. John's, by a safe channel 2 or 3 miles wide, with 13 to 15 fathoms water; and there is deep water close to the island all round, 17 and 16 fathoms on the South side, 13 fathoms on the North side, decreasing gradually to 10 fathoms close to the outermost Wizard Rocks, from which it bears S. 39° W., distant 4 leagues.

Geo. Site of the Wizard Rocks.

WIZARD ROCKS, situated off the South end of Ty-kam, between St. John's and the island Cou-cock, are separated in three divisions; the outermost division, consists of a group of five or six rocks about 30 feet high, in lat. 21° 47′ N., lon. 113° 1½′ E., having 10 fathoms mud at the distance of a cable's length from them. The Great Wizard Rock bears from the outer group N. 17° W. distant 1¼ mile, and 2 miles northward from it, lies a white conical rock, called the inner or small Wizard Rock; near the great rock, the depths are 6 and 7 fathoms; and near the small one, about 5 fathoms, soft ground. Betwixt them, but nearest the Small Wizard, there is a rock, covered at high tide, making it necessary for a ship passing betwixt them, to keep nearest to the Great Wizard. There is another rock, always above water, bearing from the Small Wizard W. by N., having 4½ fathoms near it; and there is a passage with 42 fathoms water, betwixt the Small Wizard and the South point of Ty-kam.

Ty-kam.

TY-KAM ISLAND, in lat. 21° 52′ N., close to the northward of the Wizard Rocks, is of considerable height, of darker aspect than the other land, and in clear weather, appears with' red streaks: on the South part, in a small bay fronting the Wizard Rocks, behind a

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mound of sand near the beach, there is a village, and fresh water may be got at the western side of the beach. Between this island and Toon-qua, the next island to the westward, the water is shoal, and also in the large space to the westward of Toon-qua.

Geo. Site of Cou-cock.

COU-COCK, the next island to the eastward of Ty-kam, is high, and in extent about 3½ miles East and West: the S.W. point, in lat. 21° 50′ N., lon. 113° 7½′ E., has a remarkable rock close to it resembling a boat under sail. The West side of the island, is formed by a steep hilly ridge stretching North and South, having good anchorage under it in 6 fathoms, where ships are sheltered from N. E. and East winds; and there are 6 and 7 fathoms close to the South side of the island.

Ty-mong.

TY-MONG, is a considerable island to the northward of Cou-cock, having an islet called Sam-cock, joined to its S.W. point by rocks visible at low water. Betwixt Ty-kam and Sam-cock, the depths are 5 and 4½ fathoms; and there is a channel about 1½ mile wide, betwixt the latter and the N.W. end of Cou-cock, having in it 3½ and 4 fathoms. A vessel proceeding through it, should keep close to Cou-cock, and will have 4 or 3½ fathoms water on the North side of this island, where fresh water may be got at the westernmost of two small bays, formed on the North side of the island.

Ty-loo.

TY-LOO, is a high island, with a large white patch on its eastern side, resembling a ship's mizen or mizen stay-sail, when viewed in some directions. This island is separated from Cou-cock by an opening about 2 miles wide, with 7 and 6 fathoms water in it, decreasing gradually toward Ty-mong, which fronts the opening to the N.Westward. By passing close round the East point of Cou-cock, it appears that ships at a moderate draught of water, might anchor to the northward of that point in 5 fathoms, well sheltered from most winds; and small ships may find good shelter from easterly winds, by anchoring close under the West part of Ty-loo, in 4 fathoms water. The South end of Ty-loo is in lat. 21° 52½′ N., distant 9½ leagues from the Grand Ladrone; and it is safe to approach, having 6 and 7 fathoms close to the South and S. E. sides.

Sam-chow.

SAM-CHOW, is the next large island to the N. Eastward of Ty-loo; the space between them is shoal, with some islets and rocks adjoining the N. E. end of the latter. The depths decrease gradually off Sam-chow, but it is not so bold to approach as the islands to the westward, for shoal water, of 3 to 4 fathoms, extends out from it a considerable way; there is a conical islet, and some rocks, close to its East point, with 3 fathoms water close to them.

Montanha.

MONTANHA, is a large high island to the N. E. of Sam-chow, and close to it on the N. E. side, is the Island Ko-ho; these two islands bound the Typa on the South side; and the entrance or great channel leading to Canton River, is bounded by them on the West side, and by Potoe and the other islands adjacent, on the East side.

Broadway.

THE BROADWAY, is formed at the entrance by Montanha on the East, and Sam-chow on the West side, and has sufficient depth to admit a large ship a considerable way up. It may be found very useful to such as intend to make a long stay near Macao, or to those who have parted from their anchors, and draw too much water to attempt the Typa.

The Water Islands, bearing W. 23° N. from Potoe, distant 8 miles, are two small islands off the South end of Montanha; and 1 mile N. 36° W. from them, lies another small island, having a little bay betwixt it and the West point of Montanha, called Lark's Bay, with 2½ fathoms in it at low water: these islands are on the East side of the Broadway Entrance,

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and the conical hill at the S. E. end of Sam-chow, bearing S. 56° W. distant 4 miles from the Water Islands, is on the western side.

Direction for sailing into it.

The best time to enter the Broadway, is with the first of the flood, and if a ship at anchor in Macao Road, be obliged to run for it with a N. E. or Easterly wind, about ¾ ebb will be the best time to leave the road, that she may meet the first of the flood when she reaches the Broadway Entrance, where it flows sooner than in the road. Having rounded Ko-ho or Cow-ow Point in 5 or 4½ fathoms about 1½ mile distant, steer round the high S. E. extreme of Montanha at any convenient distance, which has 3 fathoms near it, deepening gradually to the eastward toward Potoe. When abreast of the point of Montanha, the Water Islands are perceived on with each other, near the western extreme of a bay with a sandy beach: as there is not more than 2¾ fathoms in this bay, it should be avoided, by steering a course to pass about ½ or ¾ of a mile to the southward of the Water Islands, in 4½ fathoms water, then haul round the western island, preserving the same depth and distance. Do not exceed the distance of 1 mile to the westward of this island, for beyond that, the water shoals fast to 3 fathoms, toward the Sam-chow shore. From the Water Islands, steer N. N.W. or N. by W. ½ W. giving ¼ mile birth to the other island situated to the northward of them. This course will carry you to the West Point of Montanha, in 5 fathoms water, off which, you may anchor in 5 to 6 fathoms, and be well sheltered, if you intend waiting only the termination of a gale.

From Montanha West Point, the water shoals gradually toward Ma-cheung-cock, the island on the West side of the channel, adjoining to the N. E. end of Sam-chow; and there is generally a line of fishing stakes extending westward from the point, with passages through them for vessels. Mong-chow, or Ballast Island, in lat. 22° 8½′ N. bears from the West point N. 20° W. distant 2½ miles, and between them there are two openings to the eastward, one leading to the Typa, the other to Macao, both so shoal as only to afford a passage for boats. About 1¼ mile to the N. Westward of the West point of Montanha, and fronting the opening through the Typa, there is a rock about the size of a small boat, never entirely covered. The channel for ships, is directly from the West point to this rock, passing it on the West side about a cable's length; for W. ¼ S. from it about 1 mile distant, there is another rock, and shoal banks bound the channel on both sides. From West Point to Monb chow, the water is shoal, the edge of the bank leaving only a narrow passage on the East side of the easternmost rock, with 3¼ fathoms in it at low water. Pak-ting, a small island with a sharp hummock on its N. E. end, is situated on the western bank, and distant 3 miles W. 6° N. from Mong-chow: the bank is composed of mud, having 1½ fathom water on it, the edge of which extends 12 mile off Pak-ting toward Mong-chow, and commencing at the western rock, stretches to the N. N.W. the whole length of the channel, contracting it to about the breadth of 1½ or 1 mile.

If you intend to proceed farther up the Broadway than the West Point of Montanha, steer from the Point N. N.W. through the fishing stakes near it, toward the easternmost rock that fronts the opening through the Typa; the soundings will be 5½ or 5 fathoms, and the rock may be passed within a cable's length on the West side, for at the distance of ½ a mile on either side of it, the water is shoal. From it steer N. N.W. ½ W. 1½ mile, and you will then be abreast of the ruined towers on Mong-chow, in 4½ or 5 fathoms water, and may perceive a church, with the Bar-Fort of Macao, through the gap between that island and the Green Hill, that is separated from its North part at high water. This is a safe and convenient anchorage, about 5½ miles to the westward of Macao, and the boats are kept in sight when passing to, or from that place. Fresh water may be got in a small bay to the northward, under the Table Mountain, having a remarkable stone on its summit, called Kehan-shee-ak, which is 895 feet high. Here the tide rises 7 or 8 feet at full and change of the moon, high water at 10¼ hours; the neap tides are very irregular, there being then only one flood and one ebb, of any considerable strength, during the 24 hours.

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The channel for ships, between Mong-chow and the Bluff Point to the northward, becomes narrow. If, to proceed higher up than that island, the course is N. N.W. ½ W., which will carry you about a mile above Bluff Point, in 5 to 4½ fathoms, and this point ought to be passed within ½ a mile: if drawing more than 16 feet, wait here for the last of the flood, to carry you past the small island Tang-lung-chow, situated a little to the northward, off which there are only 4½ fathoms at high water. From Bluff Point, the course is N. N.W. ¾ W. to pass about ½ a mile to the westward of Tang-lung-chow; and you should not go much farther West, nor so near the island, as to shut in the North Hillock of Mong-chow with Bluff Point. When abreast of the island, steer N.W. ½ N. or directly for the entrance of the river, keeping about ½ a mile off Ama-cock Point, which forms the East side of the entrance, has a pagoda on it, and is well wooded with trees. Here, the depth begins to increase, and in steering to pass Motow Fort, about mile, off it, there are 8 or 9 fathoms. About 4 or 5 miles above this fort, the Broadway River separates into two branches: the easternmost called Hong-shan River, communicates with Canton, by which the trade is mostly carried on between this city and Macao. The wide opening to the eastward of Ama-cock Point, called the Flats, leads to Macao; there is only a passage for boats through it, and the Ladrones, when refractory, have generally a fleet stationed about this part of the Broadway, to intercept boats going to, or from Macao.

If the wind will not admit a ship to sail directly into the entrance of the Broadway, there is room for short tacks between the Water Islands and the rocky islets off Sam-chow, taking care of the latter shore, which is shoal. Farther in, the channel contracts a little, but the tides are of sufficient strength to back and fill past the rocks that lie opposite to the Typa, or where the channel may seem rather narrow for working.

The direction of the flood outside, is governed principally by the winds; with strong easterly winds, it comes from E. S. E.; and from South, when S.Westerly winds prevail. The ebb runs generally to the S.W. Inside, the tides take the direction of the channel.

Freshes currents,

how to be avoided.

THE FRESHES, from Canton River, set almost constantly from the South end of Montanha, along the shores of the island to the westward, at the rate of 1 to 2 miles an hour, particularly with strong easterly winds. When there seems at times, to be on the surface, a flood tide setting to the eastward, or into the entrance of the river, the freshes underneath continue to run outward, by which ships are rendered ungovernable, even in fresh breezes. Many ships from this cause, after getting near Montanha, or betwixt it and Potoe, have been drifted along the islands nearly to St. John's, whilst making every endeavour with moderate breezes, to keep their heads to the eastward. Ships, therefore, steering in for the channel betwixt Potoe and Montanha, should never borrow near Sam-chow, or the other islands to the westward, unless it is blowing a strong gale at S. W.; for if they get into shoal water near the islands, when the winds are light, they must expect to have the stream of the eddy current, and be drifted to the westward.

These freshes, or westerly currents, abate at times, and then weak tides set to the eastward; but as these are not strong, nor of long duration, ships should keep on the East side of the channel, in deep water toward the Ladrone and Potoe, and anchor instantly, if the current begin to drift them to the westward.

How to approach the laud, or get to the eastward.

In the strength of the S.W. monsoon, ships should endeavour if the wind is steady betwixt S. E. and S.W. to make the Grand Ladrone bearing nearly North, and never fall in with the islands to the westward; this is more necessary after the middle of August, when; easterly winds are liable to prevail several days together, as they are, more or less, at all seasons. Ships which fall to leeward about St. John's, in September or October, generally make a tedious passage to Macao; for the pilots carry them close along the islands, where the freshes or current setting to the westward, oblige them to remain at anchor great part of the time. But as these freshes prevail only in shoal water, near the islands, ships which

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stretch well out into the open sea, and take every advantage of the favorable shifts of wind, will generally get more speedily to the eastward, than those which continue to work close in with the islands.

ISLANDS, CHANNELS, BAYS, or HARBOURS, on the COAST of CHINA, EASTWARD of, and near CANTON RIVER; with DIRECTIONS for SAILING toward that RIVER.

Geo. Site of the Grand Ladrone.

GRAND, or GREAT LADRONE, called by the Chinese TY-MAN-SHAN, is in lat. 21° 57′ 10″ N., lon. 113° 44′ E., or 12 miles East of Macao, and 30 miles East of Canton Factories by mean of many chronometers.* It is a steep bold island, the N.W. part forming a round mount or dome, more elevated than the other part, that may be seen 9 leagues from the deck, and 14 leagues from the mast-head, makes it easily known: for none of the other islands have a similar appearance, although most of them are high: on the S.W. part there is a small bay, where the fishing boats take shelter in the N. E. monsoon. The island is about 2 miles in diameter, with a rocky aspect close to the sea, but it is safe to approach, the depths near it being generally 16 or 17 fathoms. Being the outermost island, directly fronting Canton River, it is used as a standard position by ships sailing to, or from that river; and with the Little Ladrone adjoining, and Potoe to the N. N.Westward, bounds the East side of the great channel, leading to the river and Macao Road.

Little Ladrone.

Soundings near them,

LITTLE LADRONE, or POCKING-HAN of the Chinese, is separated from the West side of the Grand Ladrone, by a narrow passage, having 16 or 17 fathoms water in it, but too confined for a ship unless in a case of necessity. This island is of convex sloping form, not so much elevated as the former. Near the West side of it, the depths are 11 and 10 fathoms, decreasing gradually to 6 fathoms about ½ a mile to the southward of Potoe: there are 14 fathoms near its outer point, and near the South and S. E. sides of the Grand Ladrone, 17 to 18 fathoms.

Close to the N. E. part of the Little Ladrone, lies a small rocky islet; and N. by W. from this islet about 1200 yards, there is a Black Rock, covered at high tide, with 10 fathoms close around: if therefore, a ship pass this way at high water, when the rock is covered, she must keep about mid-channel between the Little Ladrone and Tong-hou Island, which is 2½ miles more to the northward. This is the only danger near the Little Ladrone, excepting a high rock close to the shore on its N.W. side, having near it 9 and 10 fathoms water.

and in the offing.

How to distinguish the land,

About 10 leagues South from the Grand Ladrone, the depths increase to 27 or 28 fathoms; about 20 leagues from it, to 42 and 44 fathoms; and soundings extend on the same meridian, to about lat. 20° N.; from hence, they continue westward on a parallel to Hainan Head; but converge toward the land, with deeper water to the eastward of the meridian of the Ladrone. Ships falling in with the land in thick weather, may easily distinguish whether the land seen, is the islands to the eastward or westward of the Grand Ladrone; for the

* Captain Ross, in his survey, makes it 11 miles East of Macao, and 27′ 13″ East of the Factory at Canton, or in lon. 113° 43′ E.

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Asses Ears, and Lema Islands, have soundings of 23 and 24 fathoms very close to them on the outside; whereas, the islands betwixt the Grand Ladrone and St. John's, have only 10 and 11 fathoms at a considerable distance outside. These are also large, and of regular appearance, resembling a coast more than islands; but those to the eastward (excepting the Great Lema, which is long, and of an undulating form), are detached, high, and uneven.

and proceed toward the river.

A ship falling in with the islands to the eastward, if the weather is not very thick, should push through some of the channels amongst them toward the river, which are in general safe, river and may be navigated without a pilot; for by losing time outside, or close to the islands, she may be baffled by light winds and calms, which are frequently the harbingers of a Ty-foong.

Potoe Island.

POTOE, or PASSAGE ISLAND, in lat. 22° 2′ 6″ N., bearing N.W. by N. from the; N.W. end of the Little Ladrone 4½ miles, is a flat sloping rock, visible about 3 leagues from the deck, with 6 or 6½ fathoms near it all round; it ought not to be approached too close, as the eddies occasioned by the Freshes, may render a ship ungovernable, and he liable to drift her toward it, or toward Woong-boo, the adjacent island. The channel betwixt it and the S. E. point of Montanha, is about 5 miles wide and very safe; the depth is 6 or 6½ fathoms in mid-channel, or rather nearest to Potoe, (which is the best track) decreasing over a bottom of soft ouze to 5½ or 5 fathoms, in steering N. N. Eastward for Macao Road; and there are 32 fathoms close to the Point of Montanha.

Remarks relative to the making the coast, in different seasons,

During the strength of the S.W. monsoon, ships generally endeavour to fall in with the Grand Ladrone bearing about North or N, by E., and pass into the river by the western channel, between Potoe and Montanha; but late in the season, when the winds incline easterly, or at any other time when they are expected to come from the North or Eastward, it is prudent to make the Great Lema, and proceed in, by that channel. When Ty-foongs happen on the coast, they generally commence in a moderate gale from northward, which is a leading wind for passing through the Lema Channel into the river; and as the wind commonly veers to eastward before it blows very severe, a ship may get well up the river above Lintin, with the first of the gale, where these storms blow with less violence, than outside among the islands.

and of sailing toward the river.

As the approach to Canton River is probably more safe than to any other large river on the globe, there being no sand banks at the entrance, and the channels amongst the islands outside being mostly all free from hidden danger, a stranger should not hesitate to push through the nearest convenient channel without a pilot, if the weather is tolerably clear; but the tides must be attended to, which set in different directions amongst the islands to the S. Eastward of the river, according to the prevailing winds; a strong easterly wind generally producing a westerly current or tide, which abates in strength when the ebb should be setting to the S. Eastward. If an outside pilot can be obtained at a moderate rate (12 or 15 dollars) he may be useful, to run the ship into some cove or place of shelter, in case a storm should approach, or if she is in a disabled state. A ship ought not to anchor in Macoa Road, when there is an appearance of stormy weather, but she should run well up the river above Lintin.

Woong-moo Island and Dry Rocks.

Leung-neeb Island.

Sunken Rocks.

About 1½ mile to the E. N. E. of Potoe, lies an island 1¼ mile long, stretching North and South, with a peaked hill on its northern part; it is named WOONG-MOO, or WOONG-BOO, and nearly ½ a mile off the West side of it there are some rocks above water. Eastward of Woong-moo 1½ mile, is situated an island named LEUNG-NEEB, with a round islet between its South end and the western point of Tong-hou Island; not having passed between Potoe and the dry rocks, or between Woong-boo and Leung-neeb, the depth there is not known: about a mile N.W. from the North end of Leung-neeb, lie two rocks covered at spring tides, which in blowing weather show breakers; therefore, in passing the North end of this island, keep at least ¾ of a mile distant.

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Ty-lo-chow.

Ty-lock.

TY-LO-CHOW, bearing from the North end of Leung-neeb N. 4¼° E., distant 2¾ miles, is high near the western part, sloping a little to the eastward, and it is the southern one of the range of small islands, on the East side of Macao Road; it is 5½ miles from Cow-ow (or the South point of the Typa), 7⅓ miles from Cabaretta Point, and near 10 miles from Macao Town: between this island and Leung-neeb, there is a good channel to enter the road from the S. E., remembering the rocks off the northern point of the latter, the depth from one to the other being 7 and 7½ fathoms, decreasing to 4¼ fathoms in the road. TY-LOCK, about ½ a mile to the northward of Ty-lo-chow, is a small rocky island, having on its summit a large rock.

Samcock and Sylock.

SAM-COCK ISLAND, (South end) distant 1 mile in a N. N. E. direction from Ty lock, is the largest of the range, of moderate height, and rugged appearance, in form of a pyramid: between this island and Ty-lock there is a small islet, named SY-LOCK, and two rocks above water; the channels between these are so narrow, that a ship should not attempt them, and on account of the strong eddies, ships are very frequently ungovernable.

Channel between Sam-cock and Chung-chow.

On the northern part of Sam-cock, there is a small bay or cove for boats, and this island and affords fresh water: about ¼ mile off the West point there are 3¼ fathoms, and the same distance off its eastern point there are only 3 fathoms water; therefore, in passing between Sam-cock Island and Chung-chow to the North, keep in mid-channel, or nearest to the latter, in 6 or 7 fathoms water.

Chung-chow.

Geo. Site.

CHUNG-CHOW, distant about 1¼ mile to the N. N. E. of Sam-cock, is the northern island of the range, from which Cabaretta Point is distant 8 miles N. 88½° W., Macao Town N. 82½° W., distant about 10 miles, the outer of the Nine Islands near 7 miles distant, bears N.51½° W., Lintin Point N. 16½° E. 14¾ miles; it is in lat. 22° 10′ 15″ N., and lon. 113° 43′ 50″ E.; the depth near Chung-chow is 7 fathoms to the eastward, and 5 and 6 to the northward and westward.

Along the western side of this range of islands, the depth is 5 or 5½ fathoms, and on the eastern side it is 7 fathoms; the ebb runs strong from the northward along the West side of them, and the flood in eddies from the S. Eastward.

Dangerous Sunken Rock.

When Chung-chow is bearing N. 66° 51′ W., Ty-lock S. 68° 45′ W., summit of Ty-lo-chow S. 58° 24′ W., the centre of Sam-cock nearly West, and the small island which is off the N.W. end of Lueng-suitow, bearing N. 26° 8′ E. there is a small and dangerous NEEDLE ROCK, with 4 feet water on it at low spring tide, and 10 fathoms close around; it is distant from the nearest shores as follows:—from Chung-chow 5900 yards, from a small island to the southward of it 2900 yards, from the South part of Lueng-suitow 8250 yards, and from the S.W. point of Laff-Sammee 4500 yards; when the island which is 3 miles to the S. E. by S. of Chung-chow, named Chuck-tu-aan, and the small island off the West side of Lueng-suitow are on the same bearing, about N. N. E. ½ E. and S. S.W. ½ W., the rock will be between the two, but nearest to the former; therefore, if a ship have occasion to enter the road by this channel, and keep about ¾ of a mile off Laff Sammee and the South side of Lueng-suitow, she will pass in mid-channel, and have 10 or 12 fathoms water, decreasing to 7 fathoms as she nears Chung-chow.

Lueng-Suitow.

Lintin South Sand.

Sailing directions.

SOUTHERN SIDE OF LANTOA CHANNEL, is formed by the following islands: LUENG-SUITOW, situated about 2½ miles to the S.W. of the South point of Lantoa, is high, and about the North point of it there is a peaked hill; this island is 1½ mile long, and has not any hidden dangers near its northern side; the depths between it and the South point of Lantoa are irregular, owing to strong eddies generally prevailing hereabout. There are 7 fathoms near to the point of Lantoa, 18 or 20 in mid-channel, and 28 or 30 close over to Lueng-Suitow; there is a cove for boats on the North side of the island, and at a very short

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distance to the westward of its westernmost point, there is a round and high islet with a large rock on its summit; round this islet to the northward and westward, the depth is 15 fathoms. From it, Macao Town bears N. 88° W., distant 13⅓ miles, the Nine Islands N. 70° W., distant near 10 miles, South point of Lantoa N. 73° E., distant 3 miles, and Lintin N. 1½° distance 13 miles; the South point of LINTIN SOUTH SAND is on the same bearing, therefore, you will be clear of it, if you keep this islet to the S. by E. until Lintin Peak bear N. by E. After coming through the Lantoa Passage, from this island the course into Macao Road is West, and if bound up the river your course will be N. N.W. until you bring Lintin Peak to bear N. by E., then steer for the West point of Lintin. In a dark night, steer N. N.W. or N.W. by N. from the middle of the Lantoa Passage until you have shoaled your depth to 6 fathoms, then steer North; on this latter course, if you deepen above 7 fathoms, keep a little westerly until you arrive near or above Lintin, where you may anchor; by not deepening above 7 fathoms, you will not be too near Lintin South Sand, there being 9 and 10 fathoms close to it. The ebb tide, from the West part of Lintin to the eastward, sets South; but over on the western shore, it sets to the S. E.

Gow-tow-chow.

Geo. Site of Laff-Sammee.

GOW-TOW-CHOW, or BULLOCK'S HEAD ISLAND, situated next to the S. E. of Lueng-Suitow, is separated from it by a narrow channel; this island is small but high, and on the South side, it forms a bay with Lueng-Suitow, and Laff-Sammee. Although the channel is very narrow, H. M. Frigate, Doris, ran through, and found shoal water near to Lueng-Suitow; the depths near the North side of the island, are 15, 16, and 17 fathoms, rather irregular; but to the southward in the bay, 3, 4, and 5 fathoms. To the southward of Gow-tow-chow, and separated by a narrow channel, is situated the largest island of the three, named LAFF-SAMMEE; which is inhabited on the S.Western side, where fresh Geo. sit., water is to be had in a small bay; this island from some views forms a peak, which is in lat. m Sam-22° 8′ 30″ N., lon. 113° 48′ 40″ E. The depth on the North side in the Lantao Passage is very irregular, from 17 to 25 fathoms in overfalls, about ¼ mile off, and on the South side 10 and 11 fathoms; at a short distance to the eastward of its South point, there is a rocky islet, on which the fishermen have huts, and a winch for heaving up their nets.

Chi-chow Islands.

CHI-CHOW, largest island, the North point, bearing S. 34° E., distant near 10 miles from the South point of Lantoa, forms the South side of the East entrance of the Lantoa Passage. This island is high, of round appearance, inhabited on the West side, and separated by a narrow channel from the small Chi-chow Island, which is lower, and to the westward of the former; there is a safe channel of 1¾ mile, between the West point of the small Chi-chow and the rocky islet that lies off the eastern side of Laff-Sammee; in this channel, the depth is 9 and 10 fathoms, and would be adopted by a ship bound up the river, when she enters the islands from the S. E. between Chook-chow and Ichow.

Achow Islands.

Northern Achow Island.

ACHOW,* southern island, bearing S. 53° E., distant near 4 miles from the South point of Lantoa, forms the North side of the East entrance of the Lantoa Passage, The South point of Achow is high, and rises very steep, having 7 fathoms water close to; the depths between it and Chi-chow are 11 or 12 fathoms in mid-channel, 13 nearly oven to Chi-chow, deepening very suddenly to 25 or 30 fathoms into a hole, or swatch, close to the point of Chi-chow. On the North side of Achow, fresh water is to be procured, at a little sandy Northern beach. A short distance to the northward of Achow, about E. S. E. 3¼ miles from the South point of Lantoa, there is another island, also named ACHOW; it extends East and West about 1 mile, and is very narrow in the middle: from the West side of this island a sand spit extends nearly West 2800 yards, and on the West point of this spit, there are 2¾ fathoms

* Called Socko-chow by some navigators.

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at low water, decreasing very quick to 2 and 1¼ fathom toward the island, off which it extends. When aground on this bank, a small islet, in a bay, on Lantoa, bore N. 63° E., touching the western point of the bay in which it is situated; South point of Lantoa N. 66° W., distant 3900 yards. There is a rocky islet and two rocks above water, situated between the two Achow Islands, nearest to the S.W. point of the northern one; but they are not in the way of ships passing; there is also a high rocky islet, situated near a mile to the eastward of the Southern Achow, which may be passed at ½ a mile to the southward, but the ground is foul between it and Achow, in 7 fathoms water, and by ships (entering the Lantoa Passage) must be left to the northward.

Lantoa Passage.

Directions for sailing through.

LANTOA PASSAGE, the eastern entrance, formed between the islands Chi-chow to the southward, and Achow to the northward, is generally used by ships which arrive during the N. E. monsoon. From about 1 mile off Pootoy Island, in the Lema Channel, a ships course toward the Lantoa Passage is nearly West 20 miles; in this run, she will pass to the northward of Lin-ting* Island and to the southward of Lamma, decreasing the depth of water from 17 fathoms off Pootoy, to 12 and 13 after passing Lin-ting a short way: then to 7 or 8, as she approaches the Lantoa Passage; and when in the entrance, she will have 12 fathoms in mid-channel, but by keeping nearest to Achow will have 7 or 8 fathoms. In the night, it will be proper not to come nearer to Lin-ting than 1½ mile when passing, as there are two small rocks above water, the outer one bearing E. N. E. from the North end of Lin-ting, distant ¾ of a mile, the other lies S. by W. from this about ⅓ of a mile; the depth near them is 13 fathoms.

When coming from the eastward, Chi-chow bas a remarkable appearance, and is a good guide; it appears like a high round island detached, and distant rugged land to the westward of it (which is Laff-Sammee and Lueng-Suitow), Having entered the Lantoa Passage to the eastward, the course through it is N.W. by W., and the depth will be variable, not under 8 or 9 fathoms, or above 25 fathoms; this inequality may be owing to the ebb tide running in strong eddies, particularly in July and August, when its velocity is sometimes 4½ knots per hour on spring tides. With a light breeze, at times, it is very difficult to manage a ship hereabout; on some occasions, two or three boats (assisted by the sails), have been baffled in their attempts to tow a ship's head round.

Channel to the northward of the Achow Islands.

The generality of pilots, speak of a danger said to be in this passage, but few of them can point out where it is. I have passed over most part of the ground, (says Capt. Ross) and know of no danger existing in the channel, but the spit of sand that runs off the West side of the northern Achow Island. I have been twice aground on this sand; if it is necessary to turn through the passage, when standing to the northward do not decrease your depth under 7 fathoms, in a large ship, nor pass the line of bearing between the South points of Lantoa and the southern Achow Island. There is a good channel 1 mile wide, between the Northern Achow Island and Lantoa shore, which may be adopted by a ship when it is blowing fresh from the North; in this case, instead of passing nearest to Lin-ting when coming from the eastward, you should pass nearest to the South point of Lanrma in 12 fathoms, then to the South point of Chung-Chow in 8 fathoms, also pass another high island that is to the westward of Chung-chow in 7 fathoms, afterward between the Lantoa shore and the Northern Achow Island, carrying 7 fathoms water. In this run, after passing the island that is a short distance to the westward of Chung-chow, you will perceive a small rocky islet in a bay, on the northern shore; you may stand through the channel steering West, until the islet is shut in behind the western point of the bay in which it is situated, when you may keep toward the South point of Lantoa, and have 4½ fathoms muddy ground between the point of the sandy spit and the Lantoa shore. It is high water on full and change of the moon, at 10 hours, off the South point of Lantoa.

* Called also Ling-ting.

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Geo. Site of Lantoa; its adjacent islands, and dangers.

LANTOA, or TY-HO, extends in a N. E. by E. and S.W. by W. direction 15 miles, and its greatest breadth is about 5½ miles; the South or S.W. point is in lat. 22° 12′ N., lon. 113° 50′ E., the N. E. point in lat. 22° 21′ N., and lon. 114° 2′ 35″ E. The only fortification perceived on the island, was a small fort, situated on a hill a very little way to the eastward of the South point. On the western side, 1¼ mile from the South point, and situated near the shore, there is a peaked hill, which at high water is insulated; from this hill to the point, there is a mud flat extending about ⅓ of a mile from the shore, with only 2 fathoms water; therefore, in passing this part, do not decrease the depth under 7 fathoms, as you will shoal fast from 17 to 7 fathoms near the edge of the flat. About 1 mile to the N. N.W. of the peaked hill, and ¾ of a mile off the nearest shore, there is a Rock above water, having near it 15 fathoms: between this rock and the shore, there are 7 fathoms, decreasing very quickly toward the latter; from the rock, Lintin Peak bears N. W., distant about 10½ miles, and Macao S. 80¼° W., distant 15¾ miles. To the N. E. by N. of the rock 1¼ mile, there is a bluff point, and to the East of the latter, a bay, in which is situated the village TY-HO; where is a creek or rivulet, into which a boat may go at high water. To the southward of Ty-ho village, there are two bays both of which are very shoal, but fresh water may be procured in them. Between the Dry Rock and the Bluff Point, in 7 fathoms water, Capt. Ross, rode out a severe Ty-foong, July 28th, 1811, with yards and top-masts struck, and did not experience any swell, nor had occasion to veer out more than; 2/3 ds of a cable, whilst H. M. S. Clorinde, in Macao Road, experienced very rough riding; this Ty-foong did a great deal of damage to the quay round the Praya Grande, and otherwise much injured Macao: although very severe, it must have been confined to a small space, as a ship arrived the day after it broke up, and had not experienced any bad weather.

On the North side of Lantoa there are two projecting points, from the western one, Lintin Peak bears N. 36¾° W., and the island named Saw-chow N. 7½° W., distant 2¾ miles; between the two points, which are ¾ of a mile asunder, there is a bay, and a village named Saw-lowang, and directly fronting the eastern point of the bay, there is a small island about ¼ of a mile distant, having a rock just awash, a little way to the northward of it; between this island and Saw-chow, which is 2 miles distant to the N. N.W., the depth is too small for a large ship at low tide; toward Saw-chow is the deepest water, 3¾ and 4 fathoms, shoaling as you near the Lantoa shore to 3 and 2¾ fathoms, on a very soft muddy bottom. To the eastward of the small island off Saw-lowang Bay, there is another deep bay, formed by an island extending North and South 1¾ mile; in this bay is situated Toong-choong village, which was the place where the Portuguese ships attacked the piratical fleet in 1809. The N. E. point of the island, has a very remarkable rocky appearance, and is frequented by a company of stone-cutters, who cut the Granite Rocks into slabs for building; Chee-lap-cock, is the name of its N. E. point. The South point of this island is so near the Lantoa shore, that in passing you cannot distinguish it to be an island; in Toong-choong Bay, the water is shoal, being only 2 and 2½ fathoms. The northern shore of Lantoa, from Toong-choong Bay, is not inhabited, and there is little water near the island aforementioned.

About 1⅓ mile to the E. N. E. of Chee-lap-cock Point lies a small green island, and ¾ of a mile farther to the E. N. E. another small island, which are the Brothers of Mr. Dalrymple, or Motoe of the Chinese: there is a rock above water, about half a mile to the southward of the eastern island, and about 1 mile off the Lantoa shore. The depth near the Brothers, is 7 and 8 fathoms, shoaling from the North one toward the northern shore into 4 or 5 fathoms, making the channel narrow hereabout: there is a small reef round the western side of the West Brother. From the Eastern Brother the N. E. point of Lantoa bears E. by N. 4 miles.

The N. E. point of Lantoa forms the South part of what is termed the CAPSING-NOON PASSAGE, being about ¾ of a mile in breadth hereabout.

About half a mile to the N. E. of the North point of Lantoa, is situated Mah-wan Island, forming a channel between it and Lantoa, and another to the northward between it and the

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northern shore: both these passages are unsafe for a large ship to sail through, being very narrow and having deep water: the depth in them is 25 fathoms, and you will have to guard against some rocks that project off the N. E. point of Mah-wan Island about ⅓ of a mile. H. M. S. Doris, however, went through between Mah-wan and Lantoa.

The southern part of Lantoa Island, is formed by several small bays with shoal water in them; the largest one is situated to the N. E. of the Northern Achow Island, where there is a small islet, and some rocks above water. The depth is 2 fathoms within the rocks, and there is a considerable village in this bay. Off the eastern point of Lantoa, and separated from it by a narrow channel, there is a high green island, which bears from Lin-ting Island N. 26° W., distant 5½ miles, and close on the West side of the island, lie some rocks above water; a small ship would find good anchorage by running round to the westward of these rocks, and anchoring with them bearing about S. by E., ¾ of a mile distant, in 5 fathoms water: fresh water may be procured at the sandy beaches on Lantoa, situated near, and to the northward. In the channel formed between Lantos and the island, there are 7 fathoms water; the ebb tide here, runs to the eastward.

Geo. Site of Lantoa West Peak.

About the centre of Lantoa, the land is very high, making in peaks, the highest and westernmost of which, about 3000 feet high, is in lat. 22° 15′ 15″ N., lon. 113° 54′ 15″ E., and bears from Macao N. 80° E., distant 20¾ miles.

Saw-chow Island.

Toon-quoo Island.

Pauk-pyah Rocks.

Lintin Spit.

SAW-CHOW, or SAW-CHOO, in lat. 22° 21′ N., bearing S. E. from the East side of Lintin, distant 5 miles, is a small island 1 mile long, and narrow, with a sharp hummock on its North end: to the northward of Saw-chow, about 1 mile distant, there is another island, higher, and more rocky in its appearance, named TOON-QUOO, or TOON-KOO: and to the S.W. of the South point of Toon-quoo, and N. W. of the North point of Saw-chow, there are two rocks above water, about a mile distant from each island: the western rock is very white, and named PAUK-PYAH. The depth on the eastern side of Saw-chow and Toon-quoo, is from 5 to 7 fathoms, and immediately from the South point of the latter to the North point of the former, the depth is only 2½ fathoms at low water; to the westward of Loon-quoo, the depth is 6 fathoms, and near the rocks there are 5 fathoms: the channel between Pauk-pyah and the East side of Lintin Spit, or South Sand, is 3 miles wide, with 7 and 8 fathoms, decreasing toward the spit to 5 fathoms. If working to the northward between Lintin Spit and Pauk-pyah Rock, do not stand so far West as to shoal to 5 fathoms, or to bring the East side of Lintin to bear North. With the peak of Lintin bearing North, and Saw-chow East, there are 2½ fathoms on the spit. With Saw-chow bearing E. N. E. and Lintin Peak North, you will cross the spit 5 miles from Lintin, in 4¾ or 5 fathoms, sand and mud.

Urmston's Bay.

URMSTON'S BAY, or HARBOUR, situated near the entrance of Canton River, and bounded by the islands Toon-koo and Saw-choo to the West, and Castle-peak land to the East, is an excellent anchorage, well sheltered from all winds. The best anchorage is in about 8 or 9 fathoms, with the peak of Toon-koo just open with the South end of Lintin, and nearer to the main island than to Toon-koo. This safe bay or harbour, has been named as above, by the captains of the fleet who anchored there in August and September, 1823, at the recommendation of Sir James Brabazon Urmston, President of the Company's Factory at Canton, in consequence of a renewed discussion with the Chinese, relative to the affair of the Topaze Frigate, in 1821–2, at Lintia; and the anchorage was found perfectly secure, with very smooth water when it blew a gale from the eastward. Fresh water was also procured in abundance.

The proper channel into Urmston's Bay, is to the North of Toon-koo, which has 7 and 8 fathoms water; and the approach to it, may be either between Lintin South Sand, and the islands Saw-choo and Toon-koo, in coming from the southward; or on the North side of

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Lintin, if coming from the northward. The channel to the southward of Saw-choo, leading into Urmston's Bay, has only 4½ fathoms water in some places, or probably less; and between Saw-choo and Toon-koo, the depth is only 2½ fathoms, rendering that passage unsafe for ships.

Having described the islands and channels to the eastward of Macao Road, it is necessary to return to those in the offing.

Geo. Site of the Asses Ears,

adjoining islets.

ASSES EARS, or KY-POONG, in lat. 21° 54′ N., lon. 114° 1′ E., bearing from the Grand Ladrone E. 10° S., distant 17 miles, is formed at the West part by two high remarkable peaks, which make it easily known; rising from the same base almost perpendicularly from the sea, and sloping suddenly down on the N. E. side, they are united to a piece of moderately elevated land, which terminates that part of the island. A range of islets project from it about 6 or 7 miles to the S.Westward; the outermost of these, called Gap Rock, from a small gap in it, but Man-mee-chow by the Chinese, is the southernmost islet on the coast, to the eastward of Canton River. Betwixt the Gap Rock and Asses Ears, there is an opening nearly a mile wide in this range of islets, which is safe to pass through with a steady wind: the Gunjavar had 17 and 18 fathoms mud, passing through it in 1802. Off the N. E. end of the Asses Ears, there is another group of islets, called the White Rocks, which bound the S.W. side of the channel formed between them and the Lema Islands: there is said to be a passage betwixt the northernmost White Rocks, but it must be narrow, and ought not to be attempted unless from necessity; for some of the rocks are small, with the sea breaking high against them at times; and the following danger, lately discovered, requires great care in ships which approach near to these rocks.

Cambridge Rock.

CAMBRIDGE ROCK, on which the ship of this name struck, August 30th, 1820, in passing between the Asses Ears and Lema Islands, is a spiral rock with 17 feet the least water on it, which depth extends about 20 or 30 feet, deepening quick to 5, 6, 7, and 11 fathoms at the distance of two boats' length, and 21 or 22 fathoms are the least depths all round.

This rock is about 1 or 1¼ mile distant from the North White Rock off the Asses' Ears, having the Asses' Ears in one, extreme of land to the eastward (Lema Islands) well open of the nearest Eastern Island.

The channel between the Asses' Ears, White Rocks, and Cambridge Rock to the westward, and the Lema Islands to the eastward, is about a league wide, with 20 fathoms water in it, and very safe.

Tong-hou Islands,

and Cove.

TONG-HOU, bearing N. N. E., distant about 2½ miles from the Little Ladrone, and North from the channel that separates the two Ladrones, is of moderate and unequal height, nearly 2 miles long N.W. and S. E.: on the N. E. part of this island, there is a small cove, into which the Boddam went when disabled; it is so small, as not to be readily distinguished, if you are passing at 2 or 3 miles from its entrance. There is a sunken rock situated off the N.W. point of the cove, and when passing this part of the island, it will be avoided by keeping about ¾ of a mile off shore. Close off the West point of Tong-hou, and near the South point of Leung-neeb Island, there is a small round island, making the passage on each side of it very narrow: the depth about ½ a mile off the North side of Tong-hou is 7 or 8 fathoms.

The Boddam, after being disabled by the loss of her masts and rudder, during a Ty-foong, and having fixed temporary ones, was proceeding toward the river, when the pilot perceiving another Ty-foong coming on, ran her into Tong-hou Cove. She drew 21½ feet water, and remained in perfect safety during a violent storm. The cove is about 400 yards wide, with 24 feet water in the entrance, 17 and 18 feet well inside, at low water spring tides, the bottom all soft mud. Here, a ship may lie with a kedge anchor, or be run into the mud with-

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out any risk, if she has none; the tide rises 9 feet, and it is high water about 6½ hours on full and change of the moon: outside, the flood sets N.W. and the ebb S. E. pretty strong, but there is scarcely a drain in the cove. On each side, the land is steep from the water's edge, terminating in a valley at the head of the cove, where there is a sandy beach, and plantain trees. Good water may be got here, also beef, fish, poultry, and some fruit; being the chief rendezvous of the fishing boats in bad weather, or a place of refuge from the Ladrones, it is protected by a fort on the N.W. point of the entrance, The rocks that lie along the N.W. side of the cove, have 12 feet mud within 3 or 4 yards of them.

To sail into the Cove.

In steering for the entrance of this cove, a sunken rock must have a birth, which lies in about 6 fathoms water, and 1½ cable's length to the N. Eastward of the Fort Point; when the head of the cove bears S.W. by W., the rock will be left to the N.Westward. Having brought the cove fairly open, bearing S.W. by W., steer for the point on the S. E. side of the entrance, and pass it within ½ a cable's length, for the N.W. point where the Fort is built, is encompassed by rocks. There is also a reef of rocks, about 2 or 3 cables' lengths to the S. E. of the entrance of the cove, which stretch out between 1 and 2 cables' lengths from the S. E. part of the island; these are mostly all in sight at high water, consequently easily avoided, by steering from the oiling directly for the S. E. point of the entrance, as directed above.

From the entrance of Tong-hou Cove, I-chow and Samoan Islands are in one bearing E. 1½° N. to E. 7° N., Lin-ting from E. 10° N. to E. 15° N., Lantoa Peak N. 40° E., Lintin Peak N.12½° E., Sam-cock N. 2° W. to N. 8° W., Ty-lock-chow N. 11° W. to N. 171° W., Macao N. 40° W., distant 5 or 6 leagues.

Pak-leak-low.

PAK-LEAK-LOW, situated N. E. by N. of the Grand Ladrone about 1½ mile, is of irregular shape, and on the southern side, the hills are much covered by black rocks; on the East side of this island, and fronting a small island named Hoa-ock-chow, there is a cove in which the fishing boats find shelter; on the northern side, are some small indentures or bays, in which fresh water may be procured; and near to the N. E. point of the island, there is a rocky islet on which the fishermen have a hut and a fishing stage erected. On the N. E. point of the island, stands a remarkable mount or hill, which is visible from Macao nearly on with Cabaretta Point. To the southward between Pak-leak-low and the Grand Ladrone, the depth is 15 fathoms, and the channel between it and Tong-hou Island is nearly 4¼ miles broad, with 10 fathoms between the two points, shoaling to 7½ as you proceed to the northward: from 7 fathoms about ¾ of a mile off the North side of the island, you will increase the depth toward the shore to 12 or 13 fathoms, and near the small islet which is off the N, E. point, you will have 15 fathoms water to the northward and eastward.

Hoa-ock-chow.

HOA-OCK-CHOW, is a small island, situated about ¾ of a mile from the East side of Pak-leak-low, with 15 and 16 fathoms water round it.

To the eastward 1½ mile from the small rocky islet that lies off the N. E. point of Pak-leak-low, there is a small island, and close to the eastward of this, another, which is larger; and off the S. E. point of the latter there is a high rocky islet. The largest of the group, CHOOK-CHOW, forms a small bay on its North side; there are 15 fathoms water between Hoa-ock-chow and the western island, and 11 and 12 to the northward of the group; from the N. E. point of Chook-chow, Macao Town bears N. 58° W. distant 10½ miles, and on a clear day, may be distinguished just clear of Cabaretta Point: from the East point of Chook-chow, the small and southernmost islet or rock, Man-mee-chow, bears S. 28° E. distant 12½ miles; the white rock that is in the channel between the Lemas and Asses Ears bears S. 72° E. distant 13 miles; and the peak of the western I-chow Island N. 60½° E. distant 4½ miles.

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Two White Rocks.

Sunken Rock.

TWO HIGH WHITE ROCKS, separated ½ a mile, the southern one in lat. 22° 4′ 40″ N., from which the following bearings and distances were obtained, N. E. point of Chook-chow S. 25¼° E. distant 4½ miles, peak or highest part of Tailo-chow N. 73° W. distant near 6 miles, North point of Leung.neeb Island S. 80° W. distant 6 miles, southern part of eastern Chi-chow Island N. 63¼° E. distant 5½ miles, western I-chow Island S. 72½° E. distant 6 miles. About 1500 yards to the S. E. of the Southern Rock, there is a SMALL BLACK ROCK, only visible at low spring tides, having 10 fathoms water close around; and between the two high rocks, but a little more westerly, there is a smaller one above water; the depth near these rocks on the East side is 9 or 10 fathoms, on the western and northern sides 8 fathoms. If coming from the South-east between Chook-chow and I-chow, you will avoid these rocks in the night, by keeping about a mile or two off Chook-chow; but in fine weather, you will see the rocks time enough to go clear of them. In the space between Chook-chow and the rocks, the soundings are from 10 to 13 fathoms, deepest near the former, and between them and the South end of Laff-sammee (which is distant 2½ miles) there are 8 and 9 fathoms water.

Geo. Site of I-chow.

Sam-moon Islands.

I-CHOW, the eastern or largest island, is in lat. 22° 3′ N., lon. 113° 54′ 45″ E., the smaller one being separated from the West side of the former, by a very narrow channel, which you can only distinguish when to the southward of them; the depth on the southern side of these islands is 15 fathoms, and on the North and East sides 12 and 13 fathoms, on the West side 8 or 9 fathoms. The peaked or highest part of the eastern island, bears N. 49° 18′ W. distant 10 miles from the white rock which is in the channel to the northward of the Asses Ears. To the N. N. E. distant 1½ mile from the northern part of the eastern I-chow, there is situated a small rocky islet, with 12 and 13 fathoms water at a short distance from the rocks that are round it. SAM-MOON, the N.W. end, is situated 1½ mile to the eastward of the above rocky islet, which are a group of three small islands extending about 3½ miles in a N.W. and S. E. direction, with narrow passages between them; near the N.W. end, there are two peaked islets, and on the northern side, between the eastern and middle islands, there is another high rocky islet, with a bed of rocks lying to the southward of it; the South end of the eastern island, is the highest part of them, and forms a round mount. These islands are to the N.W. of, and directly fronting the channel which is to the southward of the Lemas.

You may pass to the southward of them, or to the northward between them and Lin-ting Island, in 12 fathoms water.

Geo. Site of Lin-ting Island.

LIN-TING, or LING-TING ISLAND, in lat. 22° 6′ N., lon. 114° l' 30″ E., bearing; N. 80° 22′ W., distant 15¾ miles from the North end of the Lema Island, is of rugged appearance, about 1¼ mile in diameter, rising to a peak about its centre; the dangers near this island (already mentioned) are two rocks above water, about ¾ of a mile to the eastward of the N. E. point; they bear N. by E. and S. by W. of each other ¼ mile, with 13 fathoms water near, but foul ground between them.

Needle Rocks.

NEEDLE ROCKS, are two in number, situated within a few yards of each other, bearing S. 41° W. from the low rocky N.W. extreme of Lin-ting Island, and are so sharp, that it is difficult to keep the lead fixed on their points; at low spring tides, there is about 6 feet water on them, at which time with a swell, may probably shew either breakers or a rippling. His Majesty's ship Doris, having got on these rocks, and reported their distance to be ½ a mile off the shore, induced Capt. Ross to examine them; and from the outer rocks, he found the most southern extreme of the Lemas was just shut in behind the S.W. point of Lin-ting, and the highest part of Lamma a very little way over the low N.W. point; the distance carefully measured, was 1½ tenth of a mile, or 1½ cable's length from the low N.W. point of

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Lin-ting, and there are 10 fathoms water close round the rocks. A ship will avoid them when passing round Lin-ting to the westward, by keeping the southern extreme of the Lemas a littlé open of the S.W. of Lin-ting, and do not go within ½ a mile of the low rocky point of the latter. From the North point of Lin-ting Island, the South point of Lamma Island bears N. 45° E. distant 5¾ miles, and the East entrance of the Lantoa passage W. by N. distant about 8 miles: the depths close to the North point of Lin-ting are 18 or 19 fathoms, decreasing to 14 and 15 about 1 mile distant, and to the South and West of the island, there are 10, 11, and 12 fathoms water on a soft bottom; in the night, when passing this island to the northward, it is advisable to keep 1 or 2 miles off, on account of two rocks above water, the northern one of which bears from the brow of Lin-ting North point N. 74° E., and the southern one E. 2° 9′ S.

Clung-chow.

CLUNG-CHOW, distant 5 miles N. by W. from Lin-ting Island, and situated near the S. E. part of Lantoa, is rather high on the North and South sides, and by having a bay on the East and West sides, the island is low and narrow in the middle; in this low part there was a considerable village, where a number of boat-builders resided, to make or repair fishing boats, which the pirates destroyed, with its inhabitants: nearly ½ a mile to the East of the eastern point of the island, lies a small rock, covered at times, the depth nearest to it 7 or 8 fathoms. In an easterly gale, a small ship, by running round to the westward of Chung-chow, and anchoring in the western bay, in 3¼ fathoms, will be well sheltered: there is no danger in passing the South point of this island, there being 8 fathoms water close along the shore, and 5 and 6 near the western part. Fresh water may be procured at the western bay.

Islands near the eastern part of Lantoa.

From Chung-chow to the northward, and situated a short distance from the Lantoa shore, there are several small islands, with some rocks above water; the channels between which and the Lantoa shore, are narrow, shoal, and unfit for ships.

Geo. Site of Lamma Island.

Sunken Rocks.

LAMMA ISLAND, the S.W. point, in lat. 22° 11′ 10″ N. and 5¾ miles to the N. E. of Lin-ting Island, is of rocky appearance; from this point, the land extends in a N. E. direction about 3¼ miles, and is higher hereabout than on any other part of the island. The middle of Lamma, is narrowed by a deep cove on its N. E. side, and a bay on the S.W., so that, between them, the land is not more than a ¼ mile broad. The North end of the island, is in lat. 22° 15′ N. and not more than a mile distant from Hong-Kong. From the S.W. point, along the western shore, the land forms a bay to a low projecting point, sitnated about 2½ miles to the N. N.W., and from this last point about 1¼ mile to the N. E. there is another point, off which lie some Rocks under water ½ a mile off shore; between these two points, some houses, and cultivation, are seen in the little bays. The point off which the rocks are situated, is of rocky appearance, rather bluff, with houses in the bays to the southward of it and the low North point of the island, extending to the N. E. of it.

The S. E. point of Lamma Island is remarkable, from its being a small round hummock, of bright green appearance on the top, and very rocky near the water's edge; this part of the island, as far as the N. E. point, is rocky close to the shore, with 13 or 14 fathoms water ½ a mile off.

Shelter and safe anchorage.

On the N. E. side of Lamma Island, a little way to the westward of its N. E. point, there is a cove about 1¼ mile deep and 2/3 of a mile wide, the bottom of which is rocky; but and a ship may go into 6 or 7 fathoms water about ¾ of a mile in, and ride in security, being land locked. There is an island situated near 2 miles from the N. E. point, close to the western point of the cove, and the channel between this island and Hong-Kong is 1 mil wide. You may anchor in a good situation between the island and the North point of Lamina, in 7 or 8 fathoms water, and be sheltered from all winds; and the few inhabitants of this island were very civil, when Captain Ross visited their habitations. On the North

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point of the island, there is a hut and a winch erected by the fishermen, who will dispose of fish at times.

In the channel between Lamma Island and the southern side of Hong-Kong, the depth of water is 17 fathoms in mid-channel, having no dangers in it but what may be seen, namely, a rock and a small island above water, lying close to the mouth of a cove situated on Hong-Kong.

On the western side of Lamma, between it and the islands situated off the East side of Lantoa, the depth is generally 5 fathoms on a mud bottom, and when coming from between Lamma and Hong-Kong, you will decrease very rapidly to 5½ fathoms after passing round the North point of the former.

Hong-Kong Island, southern side.

HONG-KONG ISLAND, the N.W. point, in lat. 22° 17′ N. bears from the North point of Lamma nearly North, distant 2 miles; a short distance N.W. of the point, there are two small islands of green appearance, the westernmost of which is highest; and 1¾ mile farther to the westward of this last mentioned island, there is another high green island named Cow-ee-chow, forming between them the Cow-ee Passage, having in it 10 and 12 fathoms water.

Geo. Site of the S.W. point.

The S.W. point of Tytam Bay, in lat. 22° 12¼′ N., lon. 114° 12′ 40″ E. is the most southern paint of Hong-Kong Island; between this point and the N.W. end of the island, there are several small bays, all of which are safe for small ships, but would seldom be resorted to, when there are much better places of shelter near them. About 1 mile to the E. N. E. of the N. E. point of Lamma, there is a small, but high island, of bright green appearance, between which, you will have 13 and 15 fathoms water, and 20 fathoms very close to the eastward of Lamma point: in the small bays of Hong-Kong, northward of the green island, the depth is generally 7 or 8 fathoms, and fresh water may be procured at the beaches.

About 1 mile N. E. by E. of the North point of Lamma Island, and near the western point of a deep cove on Hong-Kong, there is a cascade of very good water, convenient to be obtained: a short way to the S. E. of the cascade, directly opposite to the mouth or entrance into the cove, Lo-chow, a small rocky island, is situated, and a bed of dry rocks near it: to the S. E. of the island, the depth near it, and the rocks, is 12 or 13 fathoms; and the cove, in which you have 7 and 8 fathoms water, may be useful to careen in. About the southern side of Hong-Kong Island, a ship could procure very clean and good shingle ballast; and no doubt the fishermen might be engaged to bring it off to her, so as to ballast her in one or two days.

Tytam Harbour.

TYTAM HARBOUR, or BAY, called also HONG-KONG HARBOUR, the S.W. point bears N. 64° E. from the North point of Lin-ting, distant 11 miles, and is 1¾ mile to the N. N.W. of the dry rock situated off the western side of Lo-chow Island; the point is high and bluff with 13 or 14 fathoms water near it: from this point, the land to the westward runs in a northerly direction, and forms a small bay in which there is a town, or village, named Tytam. The harbour is to the eastward of the point, from which the land stretches nearly North ¾ of a mile to a small sandy beach, with a Rocky Islet fronting the beach; from this islet, the land forms a round projecting point of the harbour about ¾ of a mile to the northward of the islet, when a bay, with a sandy beach, forms the western side of the harbour, where you may obtain fresh water, and be at a short distance from the village Tytam. The eastern side of Tytam Harbour, is formed by the S. E. point of Hong-Kong Island, off which there are two green hummocks or islets, about 1¼ mile to the northward of Lo-chow Island. The harbour is a mile wide, the eastern shore trends N. by W. about 2 miles, and terminates the head of the harbour in the form of two coves, of which, the one to the N.W. is shoal and rocky; and here is a rivulet of fresh water, inconvenient to be procured when the tide is low. Tytam harbour, is free of danger, and the depth is 6 or 7 fathoms well in.

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Directions for sailing into it.

If you are to the eastward of Waglan with the wind from eastward, and wish to proceed to Tytam Harbour, you may either pass to the northward of Waglan, Soon-koo, and Lo-chow Islands, through the Sing-shee-moan Passage, or to the southward of these islands into the Lema Channel, then round the dry rocks that lie to the westward of Lo-chow. But the passage to the northward of the islands, being the shortest route, is preferable, and after opening the harbour, you may haul to the northward in what birth you think proper; whereas, by going round to the southward, if the wind be northerly, it is very probable you may have to turn in. If you adopt the Sing-shee-moon Passage, pass Waglan and Soon-koo at about ½ or ¾ of a mile to the northward, and steer for the channel, which you will perceive to the westward, formed by the high island of Lo-chow to the southward, and the two green islets off the S. E. point of Hong-Kong to the northward: in this track you will carry 17 and 16 fathoms from Waglan, and by keeping in mid-channel, will have 27 and 30 fathoms water, deepening as you near Lo-chow, and shoaling to 12 or 13 fathoms as you near the islets; you will decrease the depth very fast to 10 or 11 fathoms when about 1 or 1½ mile to the westward of the two islets, and will then have the harbour open to the northward of you, and may steer up in the middle of it. In a large ship, anchor in 7 or 6½ fathoms, 1 mile to the N. N. E. of the small rocky islet, which you will see on the western shore: in this situation, you will be well sheltered from all winds, except what may come from South, which cannot affect you much, as the islands and rocks contiguous to the entrance, prevent any swell from rolling in. This harbour would be very useful to a ship, in the event of her being near Waglan at the close of the day, with the probability of a dark and tempestuous night; by running in here, she will at any rate be snug, even if a Ty-foong should happen during the night.*

There is very little tide in the harbour, and like all the places hereabout, it is difficult to fix the time of high water, owing to the variety of channels, and the wind greatly influencing the tides; but its rise and fall is about 7 or 8 feet on spring tides, and on the neap not above 3 or 4 feet. A short distance to the eastward of the S.W. point of the harbour, there is a small sand bank, with 7 fathoms water on it, and 10 or 11 all round. A ship can procure very good shingle ballast in this harbour. The eastern shore is very. rocky near the water side, but the rocks do not project far from it. The depth between the S.West point of the harbour, and the large rocks off Lo-chow Island, varies from 13 fathoms off the former, to 21 near the latter; the ebb tide sets through between Lo-chow and Hong-Kong to the eastward.

Loma Channel. Pootoy Islands.

NORTHERN SIDE OF THE LEMA CHANNEL, is formed by the following islands: Pootoy, bearing from the N. E. end of the Great Lema Island N. N. W, distant about 6 miles, being the southern one of the group which forms the northern part of the channel, through which ships endeavour to pass when coming from the East, toward Macao; it is of moderate height, the appearance in general barren, there being only a small quantity of brushwood in the vallies. About the western part of the island, there is a cove for boats, with a small rocky islet. Near the entrance of the Lema Channel, the depth of water between Pootoy and the North end of the Lemas, is 16 and 17 fathoms, increasing to 18 nearest to the latter: during the S.W. or westerly winds, a ship will sometimes find it very difficult to enter this passage from the eastward, by turning through, as there is generally a set from West to East, occasioned by the ebb coming from the westward out of the numerous channels, and the flood coming in from South West; if it blow strong at S. W., the velocity of the current is about 1½ knot per hour to the eastward, only slacking a little when it ought

* The Lady Washington, American ship, moored in this harbour, about 35 years ago, where she filled up her water, and procured some hogs, poultry, and fish. It was explored, in 1760, by Felis Mendoza, who makes the entrance to stretch North, with 12 fathoms water in it, and from 10 to 8 fathoms inside.

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to change its direction. A short way to the N.Westward of Pootoy, and West of Lo-chow ½ a mile, there are some large rocks well above water, having no hidden dangers near them; and Tytam Harbour, is North of these rocks.

Dry Rocks.

Lo-chow.

Soon-koo.

Geo. Site of Waglan.

LO-CHOW, separated by a narrow channel, and lying to the northward of Pootoy, is a high island flattened at the top, very steep all round, and about the N.Western brow of it, there is a small peak with a few large and remarkable rocks on it; this fronts Tytam Harbour, which is situated on Hong-Kong, at a short distance to the northward. SOON-KOO, situated to the N. E. of Pootoy, and about East 1½ mile from Lo-chow, is a small, but high island, rising in a peak toward the centre; and near the north western part of it, there are some rocks considerably above water. WAGLAN, in lat. 22° 11′ 44″ N., lon. 114° 17′ 50″ E" bearing N. 4° 24′ W. from the N. E. end of the Lemas, distant 6¾ miles, and East from Sonkoo Island nearly 1 mile, is a small barren rocky islet, and it is the eastern island of this group, having 16 and 17 fathoms water at a small distance round it to the eastward.

Singshee-moon.

SING-S H EE-MOON,* is the channel formed between the North part of Lo-chow Island and the S. E. point of Hong-Kong, and although narrow, is perfectly safe, the depth near the two green hummocks being 13 or 15 fathoms, deepening to 27 fathoms in mid-channel, and 35 fathoms close to the North part of Lo-chow.

Lema Islands.

Geo. Site of Tam-quoon-tow.

LEMA ISLANDS,† consist of three large, and one small island, extending in an E. N.E. and W. S.W. direction 12½ miles; the largest island, called the Great Lema by Europeans, but TAM-QUOON-TOW by the Chinese, its N. E. end is in lat. 22° 4′ 45″ N., lon. 114° 18′ 30″ E., being 35½ miles East of the Grand Ladrone; this island is 6 miles long, and 1½ broad, of moderate height and undulating appearance, separated from the middle one named Ya-chow, by a narrow channel nearly ¾ of a mile broad, in which there are 18 and 19 fathoms water.

Ya-chow.

YA-CHOW, is the middle or highest Lema Island, and from most situations, appears flat on the top; close to its N.W. part there is a small rocky islet, which is distinctly seen when you are to the eastward, abreast of the passage named Yat-moon.

Eee-chow.

Geo. Site of South Lema.

EEE-CHOW, is the third or southern of the large islands, separated from Ya-chow by a narrow channel named Eee-moon, having 29 fathoms water in it. Eee-chow, forms more of a peak than either of the other two, and has a point projecting to the westward with a hummock on it; and to the southward of this point, there is a Small but High Island, having a narrow channel between it and the South point of Eee-moon; this small island forms the northern side of the channel which is between the Lemas and Hy-poong, on which the peak named Asses Ears is situated. The small island may be considered as the Southernmost Lema Island, and is in lat. 21° 58′ 40″ N., lon. 114° 7′ 25″ East. The southern sides of the Lema Islands, are all steep and rocky, not affording a single bay even for a boat to take shelter in, and have 22 or 23 fathoms about 1½ mile off them. On the northern sides of the islands, the depth is generally 15 or 16 fathoms close to the shore. Ships in the N. E. monsoon should endeavour to pass between the North end of these islands and Pootoy, which is to the northward of it; the North end when viewed from the E. N. E. forms a small peaked hummock. Notwithstanding these islands appear to be so barren, there are a few men residing on them, to prepare charcoal from the small quantities of brushwood found between the rocks, which they send to Macao for sale. Fresh water may be obtained along the

* Moon, in Chinese, signifies a gateway, pass, or entrance.

† These are the outermost islands of the great archipelago that fronts the entrance of Canton River, as the coast and islands inside of the Great Lema, trend northward, forming a deep concavity about N. by E. from the East end of that island.

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North side of the longest island, at several places. Just to the westward of the North point, in a little cove, there is a Chinese place of worship, and about this part the Compradore's boats await ships after the end of August, when the easterly winds set in. The two passages named Yat-moon, and Eee-moon, should not be used unless in a case of emergency, or when the wind blows directly through, as they are narrow with deep water, and have generally a strong current running through them. Yet-moon, is the widest, and of moderate depth. From the North end of the Lemas, Pedro. Branco bears N.71° 58′ E., distant 48 miles, and the island on the West side of the Prates Shoal bears S. 44° 20′ E., distant 114 miles: from the northern side of the Lema Passage, your course is about West to pass to the northward of Lin-ting Island, when bound toward the Lantoa Passage.

Lema Channel.

Directions for entering it;

LEMA CHANNEL, formed by the Great Lema on the South side, and on the North side by Pootoy Group, as mentioned above, is about 2 leagues wide and very safe, with generally from 17 to 19 fathoms regular soundings, and soft bottom. This channel should, if possible, be always adopted by ships bound to Canton River in the N: E. monsoon, to effect which, they ought to make the Great Lema bearing well to the westward. If the weather be thick, and the wind blow strong at East or S. Eastward, it may be proper to heave to, when land cannot be discerned above 1 or 2 leagues,* and keep in 19 to 20 fathoms, as near as possible, which are the depths close to the East point of the Great Lema, and at the entrance of the channel generally 18 fathoms. If the severity of the weather, do not permit you to enter the channel, shoal not under 25 or 26 fathoms, and in these depths, you will drift clear outside of all the islands.

and how act in stormy weather.

If, however, a ship should happen to be near the entrance of the Lema Channel in the evening, and from the falling of the mercury in the barometer, or by the appearance of the weather, a Ty-foong be apprehended, she should run immediately for shelter into Tytam Harbour, or into the Ta-thong-moon Passage, or else into the channel between Lemma and Hong-kong Islands, as may be most convenient; in either of which, she will be completely secured from a tempest, if she gain anchorage before night in one of these havens.

After August, it seems advisable to steer for the Lema Channel, unless you carry a strong S.W. or southerly gale, close up to the islands; in this case, you may steer direct for the Grand Ladrone, and proceed through the Great Western Channel for Macao Road; but with easterly, or variable winds, the Lema Channel is preferable. Here, the risk of being horsed to the westward by the freshes setting out of the western channel, is avoided, and a northerly wind will carry you to Macao Road; which is adverse, if bound in, by the western channel.†

* The Nautilus of Calcutta, about September 15th, 1802, made Pedro Branco, and after running well to the westward, hove to, in the night, keeping in from 18 to 14 fathoms. A strong easterly gale had prevailed in the night, which increased with thick weather at day-light, when unfortunately they found themselves close to the East side of one of the rocky islands to the northward of the Lema Channel, on which the ship struck, and soon went to pieces. The only officer saved (with some of the Lascars), by clinging to the rocks when thrown up by the sea, and scrambling farther up when the surges receded, gave me thin account at Canton, immediately after the catastrophe.

† In the Anna, we carried a steady S.W. monsoon until within 4 leagues of the Grand Ladrone, September 11th, 1798, had then faint variable breezes: anchored in 5½ fathoms a little above Potoe on the 13th, this day being new moon, a gale commenced at northward, veered to East and S. E., where it blew very severe, brought in a tremendous sea which broke over the ship, and washed one of the anchors from the bow. With three anchors down, she drove about 3 miles, from off Potoe nearly close to Montanha, and parted two of the cables before the gale moderated. The Carron, made the Great Lema, nearly at the same hour we did the Grand Ladrone, and by entering the Lema Channel, the first of the gale corning from northward, enabled her to sail through the channel: and then changing to East and S. E., it carried her up to Lintin, where she rode in smooth water during the hardest part of the gale, whilst we in the Anna, were in danger of being driven on shore. Our Chinese pilot, completely lost his faculties, through fear. Had the ship parted from all the anchors, we could not have veered her head toward the river, on account of the strength of the wind.

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Directions for sailing though that channel.

To sail through the Lema Channel toward Canton River, after having entered it, the course is West to the Lantoa Passage, if you pass on the North side of Lin-ting, which is of considerable height, terminating at the summit in a peak of regular conical form, and distant about 4 leagues to the W. N. W. of the western part of Great Lema. It may be passed on either side, as the wind requires, giving a birth to the Sunken Rocks off its N. W. point, and to those above water off the N. E. point already described, and you generally will have soundings from 15 to 12 fathoms; but the channel to the northward of the island, is preferable, which in day-light, has no hidden danger, and you may work nearly from side to side.

Having passed on the North side of Lin-ting, at 1½ or 2 miles distance, steer West for the Lantoa Passage, and conform to the directions given for sailing through it, in the early part of this section.

After passing between Chi-chow and Achow, the water will deepen from 10 to 15, 16, and 17 fathoms in mid-channel, near the islands which front the S. W. point of Lantoa, and there are 7 fathoms close to this point; which, having rounded at a moderate distance, steer to the northward for Lintin, or to the westward for Macao Road, as circumstances require; in the latter case, the depth will gradually decrease to 5½ or 5 fathoms.

To sail through the other channel.

SHIPS, which pass through the channel formed between the Lema Islands and the White Rocks to the N. E. of the Asses Ears, may steer to the northward for Lin-ting, and pass on the South side, betwixt it and the Sam-moon Islands, then proceed as if they had entered by the Lema Channel. Or they may pass on the South side of the Sam-moon Islands, and of I-chow the next to the westward, then to the N. W. direct for Laff-Sammee, leaving on the left side, the small island Chuck-to-an, which is surrounded by rocks. Having approached Laff-Sammee, they must keep within ¾ or 1 mile of the West side of it, and the South part of Lueng-suitow, to avoid the 4 feet Needle Rock, situated between them and Sam-cock, already described; then, after passing between Lueng-suitow and Chung-chow, they may steer for Lintin, or for Macao Road.

SHIPS which enter the channel formed betwixt the Grand Ladrone and the Gap Rock, or by the narrow passage between the latter and the Asses Ears, may steer to the northward, and proceed as last directed, along the South sides of I-chow and the islands opposite to Lantoa Point. Or if bound into Macao Road, there is a more direct passage about a mile wide, with 15 fathoms water, between Pak-leak-low and Chook-chow, then on the North side of Tong-hou and Leung neeb, and to the southward of Ty-lo-chow, which track lies nearly in a direct line toward the road. Pak-leak-low is the nearest large island to the Grand Ladrone on the N. E. side, and a little to the eastward of it, there is a small island. Chook-chow, are two islands more to the eastward, situated between the former and I-chow; and although the channel is safe in the day time betwixt Chook-chow and Pak-leak-low, a rock to the N. E. of the latter, nearly level with the water's edge, requires attention in passing. The depths in this track are 14 to 12 fathoms, decreasing inside to 8 and 7, then gradually to 5 fathoms in Macao Road. On the North side of the Grand and Little Ladrone, there is a safe passage, with 15 to 10 fathoms between them and the islands to the northward, by giving a birth to the Sunken Rock that lies ½ a mile from the North side of the Little Ladrone, but a ship adopting it, should pass round Potoe on the outside; although there are 6 and 6½ fathoms betwixt it and Woong-boo, the nearest island, it is not advisable for ships to go between them.

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DIRECTIONS for SAILING into the TYPA, also from MACAO ROAD to BOCCA-TIGRIS; and from thence, into CANTON RIVER, to the SECOND BAR, and to WHAMPOA.

Caution relative to entering Canton River.

SHIPS about to enter CANTON RIVER, near the equinox in September, or at any other time when a Ty-foong is apprehended, should proceed well up the river above Lintin, where they will be much safer during a storm, than in Macao Road. When passing Macao, an officer may be sent in the outside pilot's boat, or in the compradore's, or some other Chinese boat, to procure the river pilot, whilst the ship is proceeding upward. It is not safe to send the ship's boat ashore, unless she is near Macao in passing, and the wind fair for the boat to run in, because several boats have been driven out to sea and perished: the Ladrones have captured others which were sent to Macao for pilots;* and the officers, or Europeans, who have the misfortune to fall into the hands of these pirates, are generally threatened with death until a heavy sum is paid for their ransom. Captain Funter, who was captured among the islands, in a brig returning from Manilla towards Macao, suffered a very cruel death under the hands of these outlawed barbarians; and also Captain Churchman, his officers and crew, when the ship Ann was boarded by them in 1808.

Directions for anchoring in Macao Road.

IN MACAO ROAD, the water is shoal, generally from 3 and 3¼ fathoms at low tide on the West side, to 4½ or 5 fathoms close over to Sam-cock and the other islands that bound the East side of the road: there is no danger of a ship striking on her anchor, as the bottom, consists of very soft loam or loose mud, the anchors immediately bury in it. Large ships, to preserve a good depth of water, commonly anchor well over to the islands, with Macao Town bearing between W. by N. and W. N. W., distant 6 or 7 miles, which renders the communication with that place difficult and dangerous in blowing weather; nor do the pilots like to go so far off, if any of the Ladrones are in the neighbourhood. With Ko-ho Point bearing about S. by W. ½ W., and Macao Fort or the Town W. N. W., distant 4 or 5 miles, a large ship may anchor in 4½ fathoms at low water, and be more conveniently situated for procuring a pilot. A ship drawing under 18 feet, may anchor with Macao Town on the same bearing, about 1½ mile off the entrance of the Typa; into which she may, run, if a gale is approaching. A small ship may anchor in the S. W. monsoon, in the mouth of the Typa, nearest to the South point, where she will have 3 or 3½ fathoms at low water; and a little within the islet Kaow, which lies on the North side of Ko-ho Point, fresh water may be got at several places. In the N. E. monsoon, she may anchor close over to the northern shore, abreast of a sandy beach, between the Nine Islands and Macao Town, in 3 or 3¼ fathoms at low tide; here, she will generally have smooth water, and an easy communication with the shore.

Directions for sailing into the Typa.

TYPA ENTRANCE, in lat. 22° 8′ N., is formed between two high islands: that on the South side called Apomee or Ko-ho, is separated from the N. E. point of Montanha by a narrow gut with 20 feet water in it, decreasing to 9 or 10 feet, farther in toward the Typa. The island on the North side, is called Typa Cabrado, or Cabaretta, and by the Chinese Kai-kong: the rocky East point of this island is called Cabaretta Point; and the East point of the outer island, Ko-ho or Cow-ow Point, bears from Potoe Island N. 19½° W., distant 6½ miles.

* One of these, belonging to the Marquis of Ely, with the fourth officer and twelve men, fell into the hands of the Ladrones, in 1809, and were ransomed for 7000 Spanish dollars.

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Ships coming into, or going out of the Typa, should weigh at half flood, if circumstances admit. In coming in, steer for the North point of Ko-ho, and pass pretty close to it, the deepest water being on this side of the entrance; continue to steer along until the Peak of Sy-lock is on with the North point of Ko-ho. This mark preserved, or the North point of Sy-lock kept just in sight, bearing about E. 13° S. leads in the deepest water; and when the East end of the middle hill of Kai-kong opens to the westward of a rocky mount that forms the S. W. point of the same island, you may haul gradually to the northward, and anchor near the West point of Kai-kong, with the South point of Sy-lock open of the North point of Ko-ho. Here, the depth is from 3¼ to 4 fathoms at low water, where ships are sheltered from all winds, by the high land around; the deepest water is near the West point of Kai-kong, for the bay opposite, formed at the East end of the island Mackkareera, is shoal. The watering cove is at the West part of this bay, and from the North point, a reef of rocks projects near ¼ mile to the eastward; a ship ought not to go so far, northward, as to approach this reef. In the middle and eastern parts of the Typa, the water is not so deep in the fair channel leading to the anchorage, for there, the depths are only 14 and 15 feet at low water; but a ship can receive no injury by grounding, the bottom being remarkably soft. It is high water in the Typa at 10 hours on full and change of the moon; the tide rises about 7 feet, and runs at the rate of 1½ and 2 miles an hour, when not influenced by the winds. The ebb runs out of the mouth of the Typa, but it sets across the entrance if you are outside of the points. There is only a few minutes of variation here at present, and it is difficult to say whether it is easterly or westerly.

Geo. Site of Macao Town, and

MACAO TOWN (or city) called Ou-moon by the Chinese, is situated in lat. 22° 10½′ N., lon. 113° 32′ E., or 18 miles East of Canton by chronometers, and 12 miles West of Town, awl Grand Ladrone. There are several forts on the hills around the town, which is irregularly built on a high peninsula that terminates the island of Macao to the southward, being joined to it by a narrow isthmus to the northward of the town.

This healthy and pleasant settlement, the only one possessed by Europeans within the limits of the Chinese empire, is completely under the jurisdiction of the viceroy of Canton: although the Portuguese are permitted to retain the nominal government of the town, it is dependant on the Chinese for provisions, and every necessary of life. The river pilots are procured here, who each receive a chop from the residing mandarin, to deliver to the officer stationed at the fort in Bocca-tigris, describing the force of the ship, and to what nation she belongs.

the harbour,

MACAO HARBOUR, formed between the peninsula and the large island Twee-lien- debarboar, shan to the westward, is narrow at the entrance, but has 21 and 20 feet at low water close to Fort St. Jago, which is situated on the East point; and from hence, along the eastern shore to the town, the depths continue nearly the same.

with sailing direction.

A ship proceeding to the harbour, must pass through the Typa, there being 13 feet at low water in the fair track between the Typa and the entrance of the harbour; but only 12 and 11 feet in the large space betwixt Kai-kong and Macao. The channel lies in a direct line from the anchorage in the Typa to the harbour's entrance, and to avoid Pedro-meo, (a sunken rock about ¼ mile to the eastward of the N. E. point of Mackkareera), the N. E, point of Montanha must be kept open to the eastward of Mackkareera; or in passing it, keep rather more than mid-channel toward Kai-kong. From hence, steer direct for the entrance of the harbour, there being no other danger except Pan-lung-shee, a rock on the East side of the channel, from which the outer point of Great Mal-low-chow bears W. 16° S., and the point of Fort St. Jago N. 41° W., distant about ½ a mile. Great Mal-low-chow, is the outermost of two high islets, situated to the S. W. of the harbour's entrance, The N. E. point of Montanha on with the East point of Mackkareera, leads clear to the westward of Pan-lung-shee,

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and a ship will not be too near it, if she do not get to the eastward of a line drawn from the West point of Kai-kong to Fort St. Jago point. This point should be rounded pretty close, in entering the harbour, and the eastern shore kept nearly a-board, to the anchorage abreast of the town. By obtaining permission from the governor, a disabled ship may be hove down and repaired in this harbour, and in such case, a pilot will be granted to bring her from the road, or from the Typa, to the harbour; but any navigator by adhering to the preceding directions, or being in possession of Captain P. Heywood's excellent plan of this place, published by Laurie and Whittle in 1809; may run safely into the Typa without a pilot.

Nine Islands.

COW-CHOW, or NINE ISLANDS, bearing from Potoe N. 2½°W., distant 12¼ miles, and situated near the western shore, about 4 miles to the N. Eastward of Macao, are a group of islets near each other; the outermost bearing N. 57° E. from the Church Senhora de Penhos at Macao, has 4 fathoms at low water close to; and S.W. from this islet about ¾ of a mile, there is a rock always visible, not in the way of ships.

From Macao to Lankeet, the western side of the channel generally consists of a mud bank, on which the depths gradually decrease; and they increase quickly in standing from thence to the East side of the channel.

Tides and under tides.

In Macao Road, and between it and Lintin, the tides are frequently irregular, setting in a different direction at the surface to what they do underneath, by which ships are rendered ungovernable in light breezes. The ebb is stronger, and continues longer than the flood; the freshes often running out below, when a flood tide at the surface, is setting into the river.

Directions for sailing from Macao Road toward Boccatigris.

DEPARTING from Macao Road, with a leading wind, a ship may weigh with the ebb tide, if she can haul well over to the N. Eastward for Lintin; for in such case, the tide will act upon her larboard how, and keep her off from the western shore; whereas, with an easterly wind, the flood is liable to horse a ship into shoal water, near that shore. With a fair wind, steer N. Eastward for Lintin; if it is night, from 4½ to 5 fathoms are good soundings; for at low water spring tides, greater depths ought not to be expected, until several leagues to the N. Eastward of Macao Road. In turning up with a northerly wind, and flood tide, tack from the West side of the channel in 4½ or 4 fathoms, according to the size of the ship, the lead being a safe guide all along the western shore. The islands to the eastward of the road, may be approached close, having 5 fathoms near them, and when past Chung-chow, which is the northernmost of these islands, the depths increase to 9 and 10 fathoms on the East side of the channel, toward Lantoa. Working from hence to Lintin in the night, stand to 4½ fathoms in the West part of the channel, and do not deepen above 7 or 7½ fathoms to the eastward. Here, the tides become stronger, as a ship proceeds upward.

Lintin Island, and

the spit to the southward;

how it is to be avoided.

LINTIN ISLAND, situated on the East side of the channel, is of considerable size, and terminates at the summit in a high conical peak, which is in lat. 22° 24½′ N., and 4½ miles East of the Grand Ladrone, bearing N. E. from the outermost of the Nine Islands, distant nearly 5 leagues. From the South end of Lintin, a narrow spit of sand extends about 4½ miles to the southward, having only 3 fathoms on it, and less water in some places; it is steep to, on the West side, having 10 fathoms near to it, 7 fathoms touching its verge, then 3 fathoms upon it, and the water suddenly deepens on the East side to 8 or 9 fathoms. When Lintin is approached within 5 miles, to avoid this spit a ship ought not to stand so far to the eastward as to bring the peak to bear N. ¼ E., and she should tack immediately after deepening to 9 or 10 fathoms; but in the night, she ought not to deepen toward it above 7, or at most 8 fathoms. With Lintin Peak bearing N. ¼ E., and Chung-chow S. S. W. there are 7 fathoms on its western edge. Lantoa Peak S. E. by S., is a crossing bearing over its southern extremity, in 5 fathoms water.

The anchorage at Lintin, is in 10 or 12 fathoms, about 1½ mile off the sandy beach on the

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S. W. side; under 10 fathoms, the water shoals very quick to the shore. Fresh water is procured at the eastern extremity of the beach, and at times, a few bullocks and vegetables may be procured from the inhabitants of the village. It is high water at 12 hours on full and change of the moon; the tide rises 7 or 8 feet, runs nearly North and South, and the ebb in the freshes, sometimes sets at the rate of 5½ or 6 miles per hour. In the N. E. monsoon, the neap tides are very irregular, sometimes only one flood perceptible during 24 hours, with a very small rise when the other flood should prevail. Off the West end of the island, there are 14 and 15 fathoms water; round on the North side, there is not more than 2½ or 3 fathoms.

Kee-ow-Point.

KEE-OW POINT, about 7 miles W. by N. from Lintin; named from a large village a little way to the westward, is the termination of the western shore; the land from thence taking a westerly direction, a large open space is formed between it and Lankeet. There is about half way between Lintin and Kee-ow Point, a mud bank with 2¾ and 3 fathoms on it at low water, having to the westward betwixt it and that point, 4 and 4¼ fathoms.

Lintin Sand.

LINTIN SAND, (called Lintin Bar by the pilots) is a long narrow sand bank, the southern extremity, bearing N. 70° W. from Fan-shee-ak, and N. N.W. ¼ W. from Lintin Peak, distant about 5 miles from the North end of that island. It extends in a N. N. W. direction nearly 8 miles, bounding the East side of the channel, which has the deepest water near to the West side of the sand: and to the eastward of it, there are from 3½, to 4 and 5 fathoms, in the Eastern Channel leading to Urmston's Bay. The sand is not a mile in breadth, having 2 fathoms on the middle and southern parts, and only 2 fathoms at low water toward its northern extremity, with Sampan-chow just open to the westward of Anunghoy Point. About 4½ miles from Lintin, bearing N. 1½° E. from the peak, there are two rocky islets, the easternmost of which, called Fan-shee-ak, is the largest: when these rocks are in a line bearing S. 70° E., the southern extremity of Lintin Sand is on the same bearing. The East side of the channel, between the South extremity of the sand and the North end of Lintin, is bounded by mud banks, with 3 and 3½ fathoms on them at low water, the soundings rather irregular.

To sail from Lintin up channel.

BEING abreast of Lintin with a fair wind, run up in soundings from 5 to 6½ fathoms: with a westerly wind, borrow on the West side of the channel; if it is easterly, keep in 6 to 6½ fathoms with the flood tide. Ships may with safety, proceed 3 or 4 leagues above Lintin, even in the night with a working wind, the lead being a certain guide, by tacking from the West side of the channel in 4½ fathoms, and from the East side in 6½ fathoms; but after being about 2 or 2½ leagues to the northward of Lintin, they ought to tack in 5½ fathoms from the East side of the channel, for the deepest water is near the edge of Lintin Sand, and if a ship begin to shoal on its verge to 5 fathoms, she will not have room to tack.

2½ fathoms bank.

Lantoa is frequently obscured by clouds or haze, but when its summit is visible, the West Peak of that island affords a good mark for running up channel in the day. Proceeding upward, steering N. by W. or N. by W. ½ W., draw gradually the high West Peak of Lantoa, on with the West end of Lintin, and continue to draw it more easterly until it is on with Lintin Peak, or a little open to the eastward of that peak, and keep it so, until you are more than half way from Lintin toward Lankeet. Then, if the wind is contrary, Lantoa West Peak may be brought nearly to the East end of Lintin, in tacking from the East side of the channel; and it may be brought well to the westward of Lintin Peak, when tacking from the West side; but on a nearer approach to Lankeet, the West Peak of Lantoa must not be brought to the westward of Lintin Peak. When within 5 miles of Lankeet, the West Peak of Lantoa must not be brought more westerly than touching the East end of Lintin, when in the West side of the channel; to a considerable way open with the same, when on the east-

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ern side. Here, the depths decrease, and there is only about a fathom more water on the East side, than in the West side of the channel. A narrow mud bank, with 2½ fathoms on it at low water, bounds the West side of the channel in this part, and extends in a N. N.W. direction about 4 miles, terminating nearly 1¼ mile to the S.W. of Lankeet. There is a channel of 4½ and 5 fathoms to the westward of this mud bank, into which, or upon the bank, the pilots sometimes get ships in the night; but with large ships, they are more inclined to borrow close over to the eastward, whereby, they have frequently grounded the Europe ships upon Lintin Sand.

Several of the pilots know little of the navigation of the river, and when they get into shoal water, cry immediately, let go anchor, although the ship may be touching the ground; it is therefore, proper, when the pilot appears confused, or uncertain of his situation, to anchor before the ship get into shoal water.

A SHIP being about 1 or 1½ mile off Lintin, a N. by W. ½ W. course would carry her fair through the channel, close on the East side of Sampan-chow, were the tides to run in that direction; but from Lintin they set N. N. W. and S. S. E. nearly as far as the North end of Lintin Sand, and from thence to Sampan-chow, they set about N. W. by W. and S. E. by E.

Steering up channel, with the West Peak of Lantoa open a little to the eastward of Lintin Peak, or keeping between 4½ and 5½ fathoms if the weather is cloudy, Lankeet Island will be seen making like a saddle, and shortly after, two small islets or rocks will appear close to its eastern extremity. These rocks will be nearly on with the middle of the opening of Bocca-tigris when first seen, and should not be brought more easterly; nor in working, ought they to be brought to touch the point of Tiger Island, which forms the West side of the opening, until within 4½ miles of Lankeet; being then to the northward of Lintin Sand, a ship may edge well over to the eastward. There is no good cross mark to know when clear of this sand, but when a pagoda on the western shore is brought to bear S. 52° W., a ship will cross to the northward of its extremity. Sampan-chow a little open with Anung-hoy Point, bearing N. 26½° W., leads upon the North end of the sand, from which, the little hill on the East end of Lankeet is distant about 5½ miles.

Lankeet Flat.

LANKEET FLAT, (or bar) extending from the northern extreme of Lintin Sand, across the channel to the shoal mud bank on the West side, and to the N. W. to Lankeet, consists of sand and mud, with hard bottom in some places. The depths on it, are 3 and 3¼ fathoms at low water, and 4½ to 4¾ fathoms at high water spring tides: a ship drawing more than 20 feet, ought not to pass over it until about ½ flood. Close to the northward of this flat, there are generally some fishing stakes, and others between Lintin and Lankeet; care should be taken not to run over the boats fastened to them, which commonly shew lights, when ships approach them in the night.

Lankeet Island.

Channel and anchorage to the westward of it.

LANKEET, or LONG-EET, in lat. 22° 41½′ N., bearing N. 27½° W. from Lintin Peak, is formed of two hills, sloping into a low point at the West end, where there is a well of fresh water, by a small temple close to some trees; but the island is not inhabited. From its South part, a flat projects 2 miles to the S. S. Eastward, having only 2¾ fathoms water on it, between which and a long narrow sand to the westward, there is a channel leading close past the West point of the island, to the western part of Ty-cock-tow. To go up it, keep a large white patch on Ty-cock-tow, in a line with the outermost of the rocks that project off the West end of Lankeet; with this mark on, a vessel will have 4¾ or 5 fathoms at high water, about 4 miles from Lankeet; and will carry the same till nearly abreast of the West end of the island, where she will have 6 or 6½ fathoms close to the rocks. This is a convenient place for a ship to moor, when circumstances require her stores or sick to be landed.

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Sampan-chow.

All the space between Lankeet and Ty-cock-tow is very shoal, having in many places only one fathom at low water.

SAMPAN-CHOW, or BOAT ISLET, situated about 1¾ mile to the N. N. E. of Lankeet Hill, is small, of middling height, resembling a boat turned bottom upward: there is an extensive rocky bank projecting N. W. from it, partly above water, and joined to the shoal bank that extends from Lankeet to Ty-cock-tow. Close to Sampan-chow, on the East side, there are 9 fathoms water. This islet is the best guide for crossing over the flat between the northern part of Lintin Sand and Lankeet.

To sail over Lankeet Flat.

and from thence to Bocca-tigris.

WHEN SAILING, or working up channel, keeping in 4½ to 5½ fathoms, shortly after the rocks off the East end of Lankeet are perceived on with the middle of the opening of Bocca-tigris, or rather more westerly, Sampan-chow will be seen when within 6 or 7 miles of Lankeet, and will then appear under the land, a little to the eastward of the high round summit of Anung-hoy. This is a high round hill, sloping down to a point on the West side, and forms the eastern boundary of Bocca-tigris. When Sampan-chow bears about N.21° W., it is on with the middle of Anung-hoy Hill, and this is a leading mark through the channel. With a working wind, turn upward with Sampan-chow kept between the eastern shoulder of Anung-hoy Hill and the West point of the same, but that islet must not be opened to the westward of Anung-hoy Point until you are clear of Lintin Sand; for if it be open with that point, you will get upon the northern extremity of the sand, about 5½ miles from Lankeet. With an easterly wind, to prevent being set by the tide toward Lankeet, keep in the East side of the channel, with Sampan-chow shut in a little to the eastward of Anunghoy Point, or nearly on with it: when within 4 miles of Lankeet, you may stand well to the eastward in working, opening Sampan-chow considerably to the westward of the point, being then to the northward of the extremity of Lintin Sand; you must not, however, stand so far over as to bring Anung-hoy Point to touch Chuen-pee, but tack before they come on, for farther to the eastward the water is shoal. After opening Sampan-chow with Anung-hoy Point, (which, with a westerly wind, need not be done until abreast of Lankeet) steer direct for the land of Anung-hoy, giving Sampan-chow a birth to the westward of ½ a mile or more at discretion, in 9 or 8 fathoms; the depths from hence will be 9, 8, and 7 fathoms, to the entrance of Bocca-tigris, increasing inside to 13 and 16 fathoms near the Whang-tong.

If in a small ship, a cast of 3½ or 4 fathoms hard ground is got before Lankeet is seen, in a. clear night, you may be certain of it being on Lintin Sand, and will deepen fast in hauling to the westward into the channel.

Channel to the East of Lintin Sand.

To the eastward of Lintin Sand, there is a channel* frequented by the coasting vessels, with depths mostly from 4, to 4½ or 5 fathoms in the northern part, from the edge of the sand over towards the eastern shore; but when more to the southward, the deepest water is in the eastern side of the channel, near to Gover's Island, which lies about 3 miles to the northward of Fan-shee-ak, and from thence the passage to the eastward of the latter named rock is the best, having 4¼, 4½, and 5 fathoms water; and the depth continues to increase in steering to the S. Eastward for Urmston's Bay.

Chuen-pee and the adjacent

CHUEN-PEE, in lat. 22° 44½′ N. (off which H. M. ships generally anchor) is the southern extremity of the land on the East side of Bocca-tigris, as Anung-hoy is the northernmost land on the same side: Chuen-pee Point, is formed close by a small peak, called Chuen-pee Hill, bearing N. N. E., distant 1¾ mile from Sampan-chow, having on each side a small

* The Anna (drawing 21 feet water) by mistake, got to the eastward of the South end of Lintin Sand, and proceeded to the northward, through the Eastern Channel, on the East side of the sand; with the help of boats sounding a-head, sufficient depth of water was found near the edge of the sand, but if she had kept farther out from it in the mid-channel track, the depth of water would probably have increased.

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sandy beach. Fresh water is got in the bay on the East side near a temple, but ships do not anchor there, the water being shoal, on a sandy flat that extends from the point to the East and S. Eastward. The anchorage is in 6¾ or 7 fathoms at low water, about ⅓ of a mile off the beach on the North side of the point; and the tide flows here till near 2 hours on the full and change of the moon, and rises about 7 to 8½ feet. On the N. W. part of Chuen-pee, there is a small Watch-turret, with a fort under it on the North side; between these and the South point, several rocks project about ¼ mile from the shore, with 12 fathoms close to the outermost, on which some ships have grounded by borrowing too close. Anson's Bay, on the same side, formed between the North point of Chuen-pee and Anung-hoy, is very shoal; from 6 fathoms, the depth decreases suddenly to 2 fathoms within a line joining the points, affording only a harbour for boats.

Ty-cock-tow.

TY-COCK-TOW, the point of land on the West side of Bocca-tigris, has 7 fathoms near it, which is a smooth anchorage when westerly and S. W. winds prevail, and preferable at such times to the anchorage off Chuen-pee. From Ty-cock-tow to Sampan-chow the West side of the channel is lined by a shoal flat, on which boats only, can pass to Ou-chow, the two small isles adjacent.

Wang-tong,

description of Becca-tigris.

WANG-TONG, is a small island with some trees and a fort on it, situated nearly in the middle of Bocca-tigris, betwixt which and the opposite fort on Anung-hoy, is the narrow pass, contracted by a rock above water at a small distance from the Wang-tong. Close to this rock there is deep water, from 18 to 22 fathoms, and although the passage between it and Anung-hoy Fort is too narrow for working a large ship, she can always back and fill through with the tide, when the wind is light or contrary.

By attending to the foregoing directions, & ship may be navigated with safety to Bocca-tigris without a pilot; having entered it, the fair channel is in a direct line betwixt Anung-hoy Point and the Wang-tong, but as no ships are permitted to pass, until the Chop and Macao pilots are examined, the best situation to anchor, is in 7 or 8 fathoms abreast of, or a little above the fort and turret on Chuen-pee.

Canton River.

CANTON RIVER, named by the Chinese CHOO-KEANG,* formed at the entrance by two high points of land, the western one, named Ty-cock-tow, and the eastern one, Anung-hoy, (or Namshan by the Pilots), but owing to two small islands, named Wang-tongs, situated between these points, there are two channels formed; the eastern one of which, is used by European shipping, named Hoo-mun or Hoo-tow-mun,† (Tiger's Head Entrance), and Foo-mun by the Pilots.

The Chinese have a redoubt and a fort on the eastern side; and two forts on the northernmost Wang-tong, which forms the West side of the channel. On the South side of the island, there is an office belonging to the Hoppoo, or Collector of Customs, where the pilots must, whether going up or down, produce the chops for allowing the ships to pass: and lately, a squadron of their war boats have been stationed about Chuen-pee: to these, must the pilots, also, produce the chops, otherwise they will at times fire at the ships, and certainly punish the pilots most severely. It will, therefore, prevent detention and insults, (which the Chinese are very ready to offer, when it can be done with impunity) by allowing your pilot boat to precede you, and make his report.

When entering the river, ships turning through, as they near the South Wang-tong, must be careful of the shoal flat, that extends 1¼ mile to the S. E. of the island, having only 1½ fathom water in some places: therefore, do not stand so far to the westward, as to bring the

* The Chinese names were obtained from the Reverend Robert Morrison, at Canton, by Capt. Ross; from whose Survey of the River to the Second Bar, the following remarks have been communicated.

† Or Hoo-tow-moon; called Bocca-tigris by Europeans, first applied by the Portuguese to this pass.

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eastern extreme of Tiger Island so near as to touch the eastern part of the fort on the North Wang-tong, but tack before they come on.

The passage is between a Dry Rock and the high land of Anung-boy, and is only ½ a mile wide, with deep water, and an uneven bottom. The tide runs strong through in eddies, and ships generally keep nearest the eastern shore in passing.

Dangerous Rock.

To the westward of the Wang-tongs 1¾ mile, there is a very remarkable, and high island, the summit of which appears cleft, named by the Chinese Ty-foo, and by Europeans, Tiger Island. About half way between the South point of this island, and the North Wang-tong, there is a DANGEROUS POINTED ROCK, having only 16 feet water on it at low Lankeroun spring tide. You will avoid this rock, by not bringing Sampan-chow to touch the East end of the North Wang-tong, until you have approached Tiger Island so near as not to see the high land of Geefoo to the westward of it. At anchor in a boat over the rock, the small round hummock on the western part of the South Wang-tong, was seen over the western slope of the North Wang-tong, between the small redoubt with a tree in it, and the point: and the high land of Geefoo, was just touching the western brow of Tiger Island. The soundings round the rock are 7 and 8 fathoms.

About ⅓ of a mile to the eastward of the highest part of Tiger Island, there is a projecting point of the TAWLING-SAA Sand, and when in 4 fathoms on the edge of it, the Watch Tower, which stands on a hill at Chuen-pee, was exactly over the point of Anung-hoy, or eastern side of the river's entrance. Ships when turning up toward Tiger Island, may stand to the eastward and shut in the high land of Chuen-pee with Anung-hoy Point; but when they arrive at the South point of Tiger Island, must attend to the mark for the edge of the sand. Large ships when passing the narrow part, with a contrary wind, generally back and fill through, as the tides are strong hereabout.

Directions.

After passing Tiger Island, (with a fair wind) no better mark appears, than to keep the tower on Chuen-pee open until you bring Ty-cock-tow Point, (which is the one seen next to the westward of the Wang-tongs) on with the eastern side of Tiger Island, then steer up the river with them on; they will lead you up in the deepest part of the channe, but nearest to the Tawling-saa Sand, in 8 or 9 fathoms water. This mark will not answer much farther, than to bring the remarkable high part of Geefoo on with the highest land to the westward, or bearing about S. W., then you should steer more to the right, and open the point again; so that before you arrive abreast of the low western shore, you will bring a hummock on Ty-cock-tow, clear of the highest part of Tiger Island, and over the part marked B, in the chart* of the river: this mark will carry you in a good and deep channel, clear of the Knowls, up to the fishing stakes situated near the western shore, and abreast of the spot, called SMALL BAR.

Small Bar.

Directions.

If your ship is not drawing above 20 feet water, when you have arrived abreast of the fishing stakes, steer a little more to the right, and bring the mark hummock between where it is in the view, and the part marked A; these marks will carry you between the North end of the Small Bar, and a hard knowl to the N.W. of it, having only 3¼ fathoms over it at low spring tides. You may steer up with this mark until abreast of a small creek on the eastern shore, bearing about N. N. E. from the fishing stakes; when you may keep in a good depth, about ¼ of a mile off that shore until you approach the South point of the Second Bar Creek, where the channel again narrows to about ¼ of a mile.

The Small Bar, is a patch of very hard ground about the middle of the river, below the part where the Company's ships remain to complete their cargoes. When the mark hummock on Ty-cock-tow is on with the first or eastern notch of Tiger Island, marked in the view A, and the fishing stakes on the western shore are all seen end-on, there are but 2 fathoms water on the shoalest part of the Small Bar. You will likewise discover the large

* Engraved from Capt. Ross' survey of the river, from Bocca-tigris to the Second Bar.

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Tree, marked on the chart, by its being also in a line with the fishing stakes, when they are end-on toward you.

Channel East of Small Bar.

The pilots always use the channel between the Small Bar and the western shore, and when about moving down an Indiaman with a fair wind, will weigh the anchor after she has tended to the flood tide, as by that time, the water will have risen 2 or 3 feet on the knowls. They also take the precaution of sending boats to lie in the fair channel, or on the 3¼ fathoms knowl, which is to the N. W. of the Small Bar. When they first weigh, and are steering to the southward, they have the mark hummock on Ty-cock-tow over the gap A, on Tiger Island, and keep it so, until they are passing the northern point of the small creek, which is below the shipping, when they begin to bring the mark toward the highest part of Tiger Island; so that by the time they are drawing near the stakes, they will, have it over the part B. In this run, they will not have more than 4¼ or 5 fathoms on the first of the flood, when passing between the bar and the knowl, but between the bar and the stakes, 5 and 6 fathoms water. With the mark hummock over B, a ship may steer down for Tiger Island, keeping the marks on, until she arrive so far down as to have the hill of Sawshee on the eastern shore' bearing about N. E. or N. E. by E., when she should haul a little more to the westward, and shut in the mark hummock behind the highest part of Tiger Island; then she may steer directly for the island, remembering that after this, the mark hummock must not be opened out to the eastward; nor need she go further to the westward than to bring Ty-cock-tow Point on with the East end of Tiger Island; the depths during this course will vary from 6 to 9 fathoms. With the mark hummock as in the view, and Sawshee Hill bearing about N. N. E. ½ E. leads on the edge of the Tawling-saa Sand, 1½ mile above Tiger Island. A ship steering as before directed, when approaching Tiger Island, will open out the tower on Chuen-pee, and she must not pass so far off Tiger Island as to have the Tower touching Anung-hoy, but keep it well open; and when going below Tiger Island (that she may avoid the 16 fed rock) do not shut in the East end of Geefoo behind Tiger Island, until Sampan-chow is seen to the eastward of, or to the left of the North Wang-tong, or until the hummock on the South Wang-tong is shut in behind the West Tower of the North Wang-tong; after which, steer for the entrance of the river. After having sounded well in the channel between the eastern shore and the Small Bar, it seems to be the safest for large ships to use when coming down without a pilot, as all that is requisite, is to send a boat to lie on the eastern part of the Small Bar in 4 fathoms, and let the ship pass between her and the eastern shore.

Directions for sailing outward.

When a ship intends coming down the eastern channel, she must weigh on the flood, and pass'the northern point of the small creek at a cable's length distance, or in 41 fathoms, and as soon as she is below the point, haul over on the eastern shore, to bring the mark hummock on Ty-cock-tow over the eastern end of Tiger Island, marked C in the large view, or as it is represented in the smaller view. The water is deepest about a cable's length off the eastern mud bank; and she may steer with those marks on, until she open Sawshee Hill clear to the southward of the point of land (which is the northern one of another river leading to the eastward) and may then haul over to the westward, steering toward Geefoo until she bring the hummock on with the part marked B, after which, proceed as before directed toward Tiger Island. When hauling to the westward, observe, that the flood tide do not set you again to the northward, on the South end of the Small Bar.

When the summit of Sawshee Hill bears N. 73° E., and the large pagoda N. 34° W., there is a Hard Knowl with 3 fathoms water on it at low tide: again, with Sawshee Hill bearing N. 65° E., and the large pagoda N. 33° W., there is another with 3¼ fathoms on it; these are on the western shore, near the entrance of a creek.

With Sawshee Hill bearing S. 67° E., and the hummock on Ty-cock-tow over B, is on the 3¼ fathoms knowl to the N. W. of the Small Bar.

From the middle, or shoal part of the Small Bar, Sawshee Hill bears S. 74¼° E., and the bar is about twelve hundred yards long.

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Second Bar Creek.

Second Bar.

The channel for ships becomes very narrow abreast of a large creek named HAOUTUN by the Chinese, and by Europeans, SECOND BAR CREEK; its entrance is on the eastern shore, and bears S. 75½° E. from the large pagoda. About the northern point of this creek. the passage is rendered still narrower, by three small knowls which are very hard, and have not more than 2, or 2¼ fathoms on them at low water spring tides; the two lowest are about 120 yards apart, and bear of each other S. E. E. and N. W. ½ W., and the northern one is about 300 yards to the northward of the other two. Between the latter and the sand to the westward, there is a narrow channel for ships not above a hundred yards wide. It is really surprising, how the Chinese pilots manage in general to carry ships of so great a draught of water, and indifferently manned, as Indiamen in general are, without some serious accident happening. They, however, make use of numerous boats to buoy off the channel, and are assisted by many to tow. Ships frequently get aground, and lie in a dangerous state for a tide, and this very often proceeds from two or three pushing over together, as there is no time to be lost after the water has risen sufficiently for a ship drawing 23 or 24 feet, to pass over.

When on the lower knowl in a boat, the two pagodas subtended an angle of 36° 27′, and the small pagoda and summit of Sawshee Hill 113° 42′. On the western one of the two southern knowls, the two pagodas subtended an angle of 37° 16′, and the small pagoda and Sawshee Hill 112° 22′. On the upper one, the two pagodas subtended 37°47′, and the small pagoda and Sawshee Hill 108° 11′.

The knowls being so close, and the channels so narrow and winding, there is no mark which a large ship could use to pass this part, therefore, the channel must be buoyed off, before she could attempt it.

Tides.

The pilots will sometimes carry ships between the knowis and the eastern shore,* where the ground is soft in some places, but still they must keep very near the former. From feeling with the lead, the knowls seem to be formed of beds of old oyster shells or coral, not liable to alter, although the edge of the sand which approaches them to the westward, may change its form. The rise of tide here is 7 to 8 feet, high water about 1¾ or 2 hours on full and change of the moon, when the tides are regular; but they appear to be very irregular in their strength and duration, and frequently during the 24 hours, there will be a long flood and ebb tide, whilst the other two are short and weak. In the winter, the long tides appear to happen between sun-rising and setting, when the moon has North declination; and in the night, when in South: the rise and fall on the neaps, is sometimes as much as happens on the springs. The variation in 1816, was only ⅓ of a degree easterly at the Second Bar, by the observations of Capt. Ross; at Chuen-pee, Mr. Dawson, of the Royal Navy, made it ½ a degree westerly, by which it appears, there is little or no variation at present in Canton River.

Second Bar anchorage.

Boats leaving Chuen-pee, should steer N.W. ½ N. until a little above Tiger Island, keeping near the latter, to avoid the Tawling-saa Sand, then N. by W. to the Second Bar Creek, the whole distance being about 16 miles. If boats are passing between Bocca-tigris and Macao in the night, great care is requisite to avoid the fishing stakes, when the tides run strong, as the crew would be liable to perish, if a boat struck against any of them.

SECOND BAR ANCHORAGE, where the large Europe ships moor, to complete their cargoes when bound outward, is in lat. 22° 56′ N., about 3 or 3½ leagues to the northward of Bocca-tigris. Here, the eastern shore is safe to approach, and the anchorage is about a cable's length off it, between the Bar Creek and another smaller one to the southward.

* The pilot procured at Macao, gets a fisherman at Bocca-tigris to act as an assistant, who in general, may be trusted more than the former, being better acquainted with the river from thence to Macao. They commonly send their boat to sound with a bamboo on the edges of the shoals, and the person in her, waves his hat to the pilot, if the ship be approaching to any place where there is not sufficient depth of water.

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Caution requisite in crossing it.

The Bar begins at, the Creek, and directly fronting the North point of it, there are some knowls of hard sand and gravel, having only 10 or 11 feet on them at low water; these form the most dangerous part, the depths in the proper channel upon the bar, being about 3 and 3¼ fathoms. The pilots place always boats upon the knowls on each side of the channel, for ships to pass through between them in the deepest water; but sufficient time should be given these boats to sound with their bamboos, and take their stations properly; for if the pilots are not careful, they are liable to ground ships on the Bar.* From the Second Bar, the channel upward, is generally nearest to the eastern shore of the river until the First Bar is approached, where it again becomes contracted, and requires great caution.

First Bar.

FIRST BAR, situated more than half way from the Second Bar toward the anchorage of Whampoa, is formed by a shoal patch of sand near the eastern shore, and by a hard bank or reef projecting from the low islands on the opposite side, a little farther to the westward. To avoid the former, a ship ought to keep about mid-channel, and when past it, she must haul over to the eastern shore, to give a birth to the hard bank on the West side.

Brunswick Rock.

BRUNSWICK ROCK, † situated a little way above the First Bar, about 1 or 1½ cable's length below the small Chop House on the northern shore, and about ¼ of the river's breadth from this shore, extends N. E. by E. and S.W. by W. about 50 or 60 fathoms, and half this breadth, being formed of irregular patches, with from 10 to 18 feet upon them at low water spring tides. When upon the rock, the Second Bar pagoda bore S. by E. ¾ E., Clump of Trees or Chop House S. S. E. ¼ E., Whampoa Pagoda W. ½ N., North West point of Round Island (or Bold Island) S. E. ¼ E. easterly, a large house inland N. ¼ W.; and when this house bears from N. ¼ W. to N. by E. you are in the line of the rock.

The channel through which ships always pass this rock, is narrow, for at the distance of ½ a cable's length S. E. by S. from it, there lies another rock, having only 17 feet on it at low water, and between these is the channel. Close along the North shore, there is deep water within the Brunswick Rock, where probably the passage is safe, and nearly as wide as the outside channel between the rocks.

From hence, the shipping are seen at a small distance, moored between Danes Island and Whampoa.

Whampoa anchorage.

WHAMPOA ANCHORAGE, in lat. 23° 6½′ N., is formed on the South side by two high islands, called by Europeans, Dane's and French Islands; by low overflowed ground to the northward, this being the eastern part of the island on which the town of Whampoa is built, and that part close to the ship, is generally called Bankshall Island. This is a very safe harbour, with a moderate tide, and from 5 to 6 fathoms water, soft mud bottom; but there is scarcely room for two large ships to moor abreast, which occasions the lower part of the shipping to be moored opposite to the entrance of Junk River, when there are many arrivals. Dane's Island is steep to, except nearly close to the upper low point, there is a rock covered at high water. Bankshall Island is also pretty steep, but a spit projects a little way from its eastern point, where Junk River is separated from the other branch that passes by

* Running up in the Anna, with a steady breeze and flood tide, in the night, the pilot did not reduce sufficient sail, to give the boats time to station themselves properly on the bar: but they left one of the shoalest spits in the space between the line of boats stationed on each side, for to guide the ship through; consequently, she ran directly against it about high water, and lay aground until the following tide; we had 10½ feet at low water under the bow, 3 fathoms under the quarter, and 4¼ fathoms a little outside in the proper channel.

† The Company's ship Brunswick, got upon this rock in 1798, and after being lightened by taking out the guns, stores, and part of her cargo, was so much injured, as made it necessary to go to Bombay for repairs. The Alfred, Princess Amelia, and other ships, have also grounded on it; and the ship Wyndham, of Calcutta, was totally lost upon it in 1815.

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Whampoa; and they re-unite a little way below Canton. The flood runs up at Whampoa, until 2½ hours, on full and change of the moon.

Geo. Site of Canton.

A remark relative to the river.

CANTON FACTORIES, are situated on the North side of the river, fronting the city, and form part of the suburbs; they are distant about 4 leagues to the westward of the anchorage at Whampoa: by mean of a series of observations, I made them in lat. 23° 7′ 10″ N., lon. 113° 14′ E. of Greenwich, by mean of 5 immersions and 7 emersions of the 1st Satellite of Jupiter, and 29 or 30 miles West of the Grand Ladrone by chronometers.* Here, provisions and refreshments of all kinds, are procured in abundance; and probably in no part of the world, is business transacted with so much ease, and regularity, as at Canton. September 1st, 1803, the tide rose on the ground till 2 hours 40 minutes at Canton, being full moon at 8 hours on that day for Canton time, and the moon was in Perigee on the preceding day. The depth of the river from Whampoa to the city, is only sufficient for vessels of moderate size; but from Whampoa outward, it will admit ships of any description. As no record appears of any ship having been lost in this river, except lately the Wyndham on the Brunswick Rock, notwithstanding the numerous large ships which constantly trade here, it may therefore, probably be considered, the safest river in the world for ships of great burthen.

DIRECTIONS to accompany the CHART of CANTON RIVER, from the ANCHORAGE below the SECOND BAR to WHAMPOA REACH,† shewing the DANGERS of the SECOND BAR, FIRST BAR, and BRUNSWICK ROCK, with MARKS to AVOID THEM.

Direction for the upper part of Canton River.

SHIPS proceeding up the river in the N. E. monsoon, or with a weather tide, if drawing much water, should be under weigh by the last ¼ flood, to save tide across the Bar, for the passage between the Knowls being very narrow, they must back and fill through:—if their draught of water be moderate, they may weigh much earlier. The difficulty in crossing the Second Bar, is in ascertaining correctly the two Knowls A and B, on each of which a boat must be placed, for nature affords here no marks, excepting such as are too far distant to be of the least utility.

To find the Knowl B, a boat (provided with a lead) should pull directly out from the upper point of Second Bar Creek, making allowance for the tide, so as to keep the boat in a direct line across the river. In crossing the river she will have 4, 4½, then 3½ and 3 fathoms, immediately after which she will cast upon the Knowl in 2 and 2½ fathoms. From thence to find the Knowl A, she should pull across the channel in a N. E. direction, so as to fetch

* Capt. Ross, in his survey, makes the difference of lon. 27′ 13″ between them, placing Canton in lon. 113° 15′ E., and the Grand Ladrone in 113° 43′ E.

† This excellent survey of that part of the River mentioned above, was executed in 1816, by Captains Newell and Auber, then officers in the Company's service. The Chart was founded on the admeasurement of several base lines, with great accuracy. The soundings were taken at low water, spring tides, the perpendicular rise of the tides being then 10 feet. All these surveys, of the Coasts of China, Canton River, and dangers in the China Sea, have been engraved at the expence of the East India Company for the safety of navigation, and may be procured at their Booksellers, Messrs. Parbury, Allen, and Co.

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above the fishing stakes, and directly in a line with the first small creek above Second Bar Creek, and in crossing the channel she will have 3½ fathoms. The fishing stakes are sometimes removed, but by steering direct for the small creek a boat can hardly fail sounding on the Knowl A, or should she miss it, let her pull direct in shore again from the Knowl B, for the upper point of Second Bar Creek, until she get a cast of 4 fathoms, then by pulling up along shore, keeping, as nearly as possible at the same distance from it, she will soon sound on Knowl A, in 2 and 2½ fathoms. It is best to place the boats on the Knowls at the first of the flood, but by marking the comparative depths of water, a careful officer may at all times of tide place his boats on these Knowls. The ship must pass between the boats, taking care to keep tolerably near to the upper boat in passing it, which is the narrowest and most dangerous part of the Bar. After passing the upper boat, the course inclines very little to the westward of a line parallel to the shore. Crossing the Bar in this manner, you will not have less than 4¼ fathoms, at three quarters flood. When the large pagoda bears W. N. W. the worst part of the Bar is crossed, and when it bears W. by N. you will be over it; but the water continues shoal for a little distance farther, and is frequently the cause of alarm to those who are unacquainted. In proceeding up the river, after the pagoda bears W. by N., the ground is soft and loose, unlike that on the Bar, which is in parts hard and stony. The pagoda bearing West, is the mark for anchoring if bound down the river, and waiting for water to cross the bar. Large ships should not bring it to bear to the northward of West before they anchor. The channel here begins to widen, but the tail of the Second Bar shoal extends some distance further up: —the mark for passing it, is the large pagoda just shut in with the South end of the wall of an old fort, which stands near it; and in coming down the river, when the pagoda is observed just opening to the southward of the wall, the ship is passing the tail of the sand and must keep towards the East shore. Large boats in watering, should be careful (if they do not leave the watering place near the pagoda before the ebb makes) not to ground on that part of the shoal which is dry at low water, as at X. This may be avoided by keeping right across the river (making allowance for the tide), until nearly half over, before they steer direct for the shipping below the bar. After passing above the Second Bar shoal, the river is clear from side to side, but the deepest water is near the East shore, and ships with a leading wind generally keep it close aboard until they reach the First Bar. Whampoa pagoda observed just on with the northernmost clump or hill, on Danes Island, appearing as at No. 1, sketch A, shows the approach to the lower shoal of the First Bar, you must then haul out into the middle of the river to avoid it, as it projects a little distance from the starboard shore, and is nearly opposite to a chop house, surrounded with a cluster of trees. The marks for the shoalest part of the lower shoal are, the clump of trees surrounding the chop house just in the gap of Saddle Hill, and Whampoa pagoda in the gap on Danes Island, and appearing as at No. 2, sketch A.: on this part there is only 12 feet at low water. The mark to clear this shoal, is Whampoa pagoda kept on the declivity of the large hill on Danes Island as at No. 3, sketch A. When the chop house bears S. S. W. haul over to the starboard shore to avoid the upper shoal of First Bar: the mark for leading into the channel clear of this shoal, is the Second Bar small pagoda kept open to the eastward of the clump of trees surrounding the chop house. The shoal lies nearly in the middle of the river, and has 3 fathoms close to it at low water. The channel is deep, close in shore, and being narrow, you must back and fill through, except there be a leading wind. Ships bound down the river, frequently warp over the flood through this passage. The shore towards the First Bar point must be kept close aboard, until Whampoa pagoda is seen clear open of all the land on the opposite or South shore, right up; then you may haul over without fear of the upper end of the shoal, which is dry at low water, and steer for the passage to clear the Brunswick Rock, by keeping the North shore pagoda on with the left declivity of Moffat Hill, and appearing as at No. 4, sketch B. This mark will carry you between Brunswick Rock and a Small Stone or Rock, situated to the southward and eastward of it,

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which has 17 feet on it at low water, The North shore pagoda stands on the starboard side of the river at the upper part of the reach, and will be easily discerned over Moffat Hill. Brunswick Rock extends considerably, with gaps of uneven soundings; the marks for the shoalest part, are, the North shore pagoda on with the right declivity of Moffat Hill, appearing as at No. 5, sketch B, and a large conspicuous house which stands on the North shore on the starboard side of Hill V.: when this house is on with Hill No. VI. you will be clear of all danger, and may steer boldly up for Whampoa Reach, keeping near to the starboard shore. The Hills IV., V., VI., are easily discerned in coming up or down the river: the two marked IV., V., are much smaller than the others, and appear of a dusky red colour. The Hill No. VI. is mostly covered with trees.* The same marks must be observed in coming down the river to avoid these dangers, and in this case it will be easily perceived, that the large house on the North shore on with Hill No. VI. indicates the approach to the Brunswick Rock, as the same house on with Hill No. VI. does when proceeding up the river.

Entering Whampoa Reach, the river is clear on both sides, although the South shore, or that of Danes Island, is generally preferred; but care should be taken not to anchor a little above Danes Island pagoda, as several ships have lost their anchors in this place. The Chinese fishermen describe it as a shoal of rocks, covered by a body of sand. There are 7 and 7¼ fathoms in this place at low water. The cross bearings for it, are, the North shore pagoda N. by E. ¾ E., Danes Island pagoda S. S. E. ¾ E., Tree pagoda W. by N. ¾ N.

In proceeding up or down the river, care must be taken to give a wide birth to a spit of sand situated in the middle of the entrance of Junk River, on which there is only 9 and 10 feet at low water, spring tides. There are 4, 5, and 6 fathoms within a very short distance of this shoal; the cross bearings are, Tree pagoda W. N. W., North shore pagoda N. E. The mark for clearing it, is the south extremity of the hills on the starboard side of the river at the upper end of the reach, clear open of all the land of Whampoa Island. The next danger to be avoided is a cluster of rocks near to the East point of the entrance of French River, on which the Henry Addington struck in 1814; they are totally covered at half flood, and there are 4½ and 5 fathoms close to them. The mark for clearing these rocks is a remarkably round hill at the upper part of the reach, kept well open of French Island: this hill is very conspicuous, and is the northernmost of the hills on the larboard or South shore. The entrance of French River is shoal, and should not be approached at ½ ebb nearer than pointed out by this mark. After passing French River, the water deepens to 6 and 7 fathoms, and there are 4 and 4½ fathoms close in to the South shore; but you must be careful not to moor near a bank formed over the wreck of a French ship, that was burnt to the water's edge about 50 years ago, which has 5 and 6 fathoms close to, and only 16 and 17 feet over it at low water. Light ships may swing over it, but as they deepen by taking in cargo, they will hang upon it, which the Earl Spencer did in 1814; and some anchors have been lost by hooking this wreck. The bearings for it are Tree pagoda N. by E., Whampoa pagoda N. W. ¼ N.

* Drawings of these hills, &c. were taken some time since by Capt. Moffat, who accompanied them with directions, to which we are much indebted for the assistance they afforded us in laying down the above dangers.

VOL. II. U U

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COAST of CHINA to the EASTWARD of the LEMA CHANNEL, with SAILING DIRECTIONS for TA-THONGMOON PASSAGE, MIR'S BAY, HARLEM'S BAY, and TY-POONG HARBOUR;

WITH BRIEF DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING TO AMOY, CHIN-CHEW, AND CHUSAN HARBOURS; AND FROM THENCE TO THE GULF OF PE-CHE-LEE.

Geo. Site of Nine Pin Rook.

NINE PIN ROCK, so named from its form, situated to the N. N. Eastward of the entrance to the Lema Channel, is in lat. 22° 16½′ N., lon. 114° 22′ E., distant 6 miles from Waglan; a short distance to the westward of the rock, there are two small, but high islands, named Wo-chow, and about a mile N. W. of the Nine Pin, there is a small rock, which at high tide is nearly covered. Between the islands and the shore, Capt. Ross passed twice, and had not less than 15 fathoms water; once on the outside, and had not less than 16 and 17 fathoms.

Ta-thong- moon Passage.

TAM-TOO ISLAND, is distant about 3¼ miles to the N. by W. of Waglan, and 3½ miles to the westward of the Wo-chows, and its South point makes like a peak, with steep cliffs on its eastern side, which point forms the eastern side of the TA-THONG-MOON PASSAGE; the western side being formed by the East side of Hong-Kong Island, close to which, and about 1¼ mile to the northward of the two green islands, lie two small rocky islands: between these and the South point of Tam-too there is a rock above water, with 12 fathoms near to it. If you wish to proceed up to the Ta-thong-moon Passage from the eastward, steer to the southward of the Wo-chows, then toward the South point of Tam-too, and round it at about a ¼ mile, or in mid-channel between the rock (that is distant 1¼ mile to the westward) and the point; from hence, steer about N. by W. to pass between a bluff point on the Hong-Kong or Western Shore, and a rock above water, which is situated near to an island on the Eastern Shore, and is distant from the bluff point 1 mile: in this route you will have 9 or 10 fathoms, and perceive a small opening or passage to the eastward, through which Capt. Alves passed, named by the Chinese, Fotow-moon.

Sunken Rocks

If you are merely seeking shelter from a gale, you will find secure anchorage a little to the northward of the bluff point, in a bay or harbour that extends to the northward, where you may anchor in 5 or 6 fathoms. If proceeding toward Canton River, continue your course beyond the bluff point, to a narrow pass you will perceive about 1¼ mile to the N. W.; this narrow channel is named Lyee-moon, and is formed by two points, the southern one being the N. E. point of Hong-Kong, and the northern one probably on the continent; both points are high and steep, and the passage is not quite ½ a mile broad, with 25 fathoms water in mid-channel. It is not a passage to be adopted by large ships, unless with a fair wind, when you would be through in a few minutes, and standing to the westward, will perceive on the South side, the Hong-Kong shore, of very rocky appearance, with several stone-cutters employed on it; and to the north-westward, the land forms a deep bay, in which is situated the town of Cow-loon. Your course is along the Hong-Kong shore, leaving a large white rock (that is above water) to the northward of you; the depth will decrease very fast after getting through the narrows, to 8 or 9 fathoms: do not pass very near to the North point of; ti Hong-Kong (which is about S. by W. from the white rock), as there are some sunken rocks

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lying about 1½ cable's length off the shore. The depths between the white rock and the point, are from 7 fathoms near the former, increasing to 10 near the latter. You may anchor hereabout, in perfect security against all winds, and no doubt, may procure refreshments from the town of Cow-loon, which appears populous; if bound to the westward, your course becomes more south-westerly, and should proceed in mid-channel between the southern shore and a point of land, which is the western one of Cow-loon Bay; do not go nearest to the small woody islet which will be seen on the southern shore, as the water is shoal about it, but keep in mid-channel or nearest to the northern shore (which hereabout has a very red appearance), and the depth will be 7 and 8 fathoms. On the S. W. point of this red looking land, there is a little Joss House, or Temple, and a sandy beach; do not pass the point close, but keep 1½ cable's length off it, as a flat commences near the point, and extends to Wan-chun-chow, which is 2 miles to the N. W.; this is a very remarkable island, being barren, and having a very dark red appearance: to the northward of it, was the place to which the piratical fleets used to resort to refit, and receive their supplies of ammunition and stores, of which they received abundance from Canton and Macao. Your course is still westerly in 6 or 7 fathoms, until nearly between Wan-chun-chow and the Hong-Kong shore, which is high land; when, if in a large ship, you should haul to the northward, to pass about ½ a mile from the western point of Wan-chun-chow, and from thence toward a point of land about 2 miles to the westward. In this route, you will have 6 or 7 fathoms water, and avoid a mud flat with 3¾ fathoms on it at low water, which extends about l½ mile from the two small green islands situated near the N. W. point of Hong-Kong. When these islands are to the S. by E., the depth increases very suddenly to 10 fathoms, and you may then proceed to the southward between Lamma and the islands off the East side of Lantoa, decreasing your depth to 5 fathoms; or you may, with a fair wind, and small ship, go round the North point of Lantoa, through the Cap-sing-moon Passage, and from thence along the northern shore, leaving the Brothers, Saw-chow, and Ton-koo to the southward of you, then between Lintin and Fan-shee-ak rocks, into the channel leading up the river.

Geo. Site of Mir's Bay

MIR'S BAY, called TY-PO-HOY by the Chinese, the S. E. point is 10 miles to the. W. N. W. of the small island, named Single Island by Mr. Dalrymple; and this point is in lat. 22° 27¼′ N., lon. 114° 30′ E. The bay at the entrance, is 5½ miles wide, but a large black rock above water, named Gow-tow-pyah, and some other rocks under water to the S. W. of the former, make the entrance for ships about 3 miles wide between the eastern shore and the black rocks.

Gow-tow- pyah, or Bullock's Head Rock.

In Mir's Bay, a ship will find good anchorage and shelter from all winds, excepting what comes from about S. S. W. to South. The depth outside the bay is generally 13 fathoms, decreasing gradually to 8 or 9 fathoms about 5 miles within the entrance. A ship should keep near the eastern side, and when about 3 miles in, or further, if you wish, anchor in 8 or 9 fathoms, about ½ a mile off the shore. As you pass along the eastern shore, you will perceive a remarkable water course on the high land, and find plenty of good fresh water in the second small bay from the S. E. point. Well within the bay, there is an island of green appearance (having steep cliffs about its southern part), named Peng-chow; between this island and the northern shore, Capt. Ross, found 7 fathoms water on mud bottom, affording good anchorage when blowing hard from southward; if you intend to anchor hereabout, keep well off the N. E. point of Peng-chow, as it is rocky for about 1½; cable's length. There are a few small villages in the bay, one of which is named Namo, and another Suilo-shaw; from whence numerous boats came off with people to look at the ships: all over the inner part of Mir's Bay, there are many single fishing stakes in 9 and 10 fathoms, and it is high water at 9 hours on full and change of the moon. GOW-TOW-PYAH, is a large black rock above water, situated at the entrance, and about mid-channel between the East and West sides of l & Mir's Bay; a short distance to the S. W. of the black rock, there are other rocks that dry at

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low tide, and have generally breakers on them; between these latter rocks and the western shore, there is a channel 1¼ mile wide, having 10 fathoms water in it. From Gow-tow. pyah, toward the Nine Pin Rock, the western shore is generally high, and of a craggy appearance, but apparently free of danger.

As the ebb tide runs from Mir's Bay along the western shore, a ship with a S. W. wind, will work down fast by keeping near to it, and going between the Wo-chows and Tam-too, but as soon as she opens the Lema Channel, she will meet the strong and constant set to the eastward. The Antelope was two days, in the month of August, 1807, endeavouring to get into the Lema Channel from the eastward, and rounded Waglan close each time, but found such a strong and constant set to the eastward, was at length obliged to beat through between Wo-chow and the S. E. point of Hong-Kong.

During the month of August, and part of September, if a ship get to the eastward of the Lemas, she will find it very difficult to proceed along shore to the westward, if the wind is from that quarter; she ought, therefore, either to stand off to the southward again, two or three days, if near the full or change of the moon, when bad weather may be apprehended; else, anchor in Mir's or Harlem's Bay for an easterly wind, which, in these months, generally happens every few days, close in with the coast.

Geo. Site of Chueng- Chow.

Middle Island.

Toonee-ang Islands.

Geo. Site.

Accong-chow.

CHUENG-CHOW, or SINGLE ISLAND, in lat.22°25′ N., lon. 114°40′ 15″ East, is small and high, and the southernmost of three islands which front the peninsula that separates Mir's Bay from Ty-poong Harbour. From Chueng-chow, the North end of the Great Lema bears S. 43° 33′ W. distant 28½ miles, Pedra Branco S. 68° 6′ E. distant about 26 miles, and Mendoza's Island N. 56½° E. 11¼ miles; there are 16 and 17 fathoms water to the southward and westward of the island, about 1 mile distant: here, in August and September, was observed a constant set of 1½ and 2 knots per hour to the eastward, particularly when the wind was westerly. About 1½ mile to the northward of Chueng-chow, there is a narrow and barren looking island, extending in a N. E. and S. W. direction about 1¾ mile, and it is the middle island of this group. On the northern side of it there are a few fishing huts, and in the channel between it and Chueng-chow there are 16 and 17 fathoms water, but rendered unsafe from a rock having but 2 fathoms water on it, distant to the N. N. E. of Chueng-chow about a large mile. To the northward of Middle Island, and separated from it by a very narrow channel, is situated the largest island of the three which form the group, named TOONEE-ANG; it is highest near the western end, where stands a small fishing village, and a petty mandarin stationed: off the N. W. end of the island, lie three rocky islets, and a bed of rocks covered in high tides, having generally breakers on it; between these rocks and the main, there is a channel a mile in breadth, with 13 and 14 fathoms water in it; the highest part of Toonee-ang is in lat. 22° 28′ 10″ N., lon. 114° 38′ E. About 2/3ds of a mile to the N. E. of Chuenb chow, lies Acoong-chow, a high white rock, with deep water near it, to the South and eastward; and ½ a mile to the northward of it, there is a sunken rock, covered only with 2 fathoms water.

Dangerous Sunken Rocks.

TWO SUNKEN ROCKS, are situated to the N. E. of Toonee-ang Island, and being only visible at low spring tide, are very dangerous, as you have no warning from the soundings when near them, and unless there is a swell, they shew no breakers. From the largest rock, Acoong-chow (or the white rock near Chueng-chow) bore S. 8° 27′ W., distant 5¾ miles; the centre of Chueng-chow S. 11° 24′ W.; the highest part or peak of Toonee-ang Island S. 46° 54′ W.; the gap in the island of Tsincoe N. 81° 24′ E., distant 8⅓ miles; the centre of Mendoza's Island East, and distant from its West end 74 miles; Pyramid Point on Loo-kaup Island N. 33° 3′ W., distant 3½ miles. About ¼ mile to the westward of the large rock, there is a smaller one, never visible; they have 9 and 10 fathoms water over a muddy bottom, close round them. From Acoong-chow, or White Rock, bearing N. 6° 51′ W.,

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Loo-kaup Island.

Rocks and Islands westward of Loo-kaup.

Passage to the westward leading to Ty-poong Harbour.

distant 82/3 miles, and from the small island off the West side of Mendoza's Island, N. 72° 57′ W., distant 10¼ miles, is situated the South point of LOO-KAUP ISLAND, or Pyra mid Point,* there being two or three very remarkable pyramidal rocks on, and near to the point; Loo-kaup Island, is the southern and largest one of a group that extends to the northward, into the bay. To the eastward of Loo-kaup there are two small islands, and on the western side four, with some rocks above water; near which, no danger appears but what is visible; close to the South point of Loo-kaup, there are 9 and 10 fathoms water. To the westward of the latter island, there is a safe passage 2 miles in breadth, having 9 and 10 fathoms water, leading to Ty-poong Harbour.

Ty-poong Harbour.

TY-POONG HARBOUR, named from the small city on its northern shore, is situated in the West side of the bay, about 6 miles to the westward of Loo-kaup; and although rather contracted, it is capable of affording good shelter for small ships, about 1½ mile within the entrance; but beyond that distance it is shoal, and only fit for boats.

Directions to sail into it.

If you intend to proceed into Ty-poong Harbour, and your ship is near Chuenb chow Island, or Acoong-chow, pass the latter to the eastward, at any distance thought proper, steering to the N. N. W. to pass the East point of Toonee-ang Island; but remember that about, ½ a mile North of Acoong-chow, there is a rock with 2 fathoms water on it, and N. ¾ E. 5¾ miles from it (Acoong-chow) there are two sunken rocks; therefore, your course must be so directed, that when passing the East end of Toonee-ang, you may have Acoong-chow to bear South, and do not bring it to the westward of that bearing. The sunken rocks are 2¾ miles to the N. E. of the East point of Toonee-ang, and when you have the summit of Mendoza's Island to the southward of East, you are to the northward of them; continue your course between Loo-kaup Island and the western shore, which is high land, and when between them, you will perceive the western shore trend more to the westward about 4 miles, to a rocky point of land which forms the southern side of the entrance to Ty-poong: between this rocky point and the one opposite to Pyramid Point, there are several sandy beaches, and houses on the western shore. Your course is toward the South point of the entrance, carrying from 10, to 8½ and 7 fathoms water; the space between Loo-kaup Island and the western shore is all free of danger, having 7 and 8 fathoms water: you must not round the southern side of the harbour farther off than of a mile, but as much within that distance as you think proper, there being a reef of rocks extending off the northern shore, opposite to the South point. You will have 5 and 6 fathoms in rounding the point, after which, keep about ½ a mile off the western shore until you have got in about 1½ mile, and arrived abreast of a bay, with a sandy beach, and a large village a little way in shore. The western extreme of this bay is a high bluff point, from which the land turns more to the southward, and forms the bottom of the harbour; you must not go to the westward of this point, but anchor about ½ a mile to the northward of it, in 4 fathoms sand and mud. The Antelope anchored in 5 fathoms, with Pyramid Point on Loo-kaup bearing E. ½ S., and the city of Ty-poung N. W., distant off the southern shore about ¾ of a mile; she did not communicate with the city, but no doubt, like all other places on the coast, a small present accompanying an application to the mandarin, will insure your procuring refreshments.

In the space between Loo-kaup Island and Ty-poong Harbour, particularly near the latter, there are many single fishing stakes, some of which, at high water, are not more than 3 feet above the surface, therefore, care should be taken not to run them down: the tide is not strong, but from the numerous little channels and islands, it is very irregular in its course, and rises 6 or 8 feet. In the Bay or Outer Harbour of Ty-poong, about 4 miles to the westward of Loo-kaup Island, there is good anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms mud, where a large ship will be completely sheltered from southerly winds; and it is very little exposed to any winds except those which blow at East or E. S. E., which must force in a considerable swell.

* Called Sam-pat-tow, by the Chinese.

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Chuen-poon-chow.

To the N. N. E. of Loo-kaup, at a short distance, and nearly East from Ty-poong Harbour, lies CHUEN-POON-CHOW, a three-peaked remarkable rock; from Ty-poong Harbour you may pass on either side of this rock in 7 and 8 fathoms, if you wish to proceed to the eastward into another bay or harbour.

Loo-kaup-sye.

To the northward of Loo-kaup Island, lies LOO-KAUP-SYE,* a small island; and the channel between them is safe, there being no dangers but what are visible: close off the West end of Loo-kaup-sye, there is a small patch of rocks above water, with a large single one on it: on the North side of the island, there are fishing huts.

Gen, site of Mendoza's Island.

Taincoe.

Middle Rocks.

Fokai Point.

Ty-sing Fort.

MENDOZA'S ISLAND, in lat. 22° 31′ 22″ N., lon. 114° 50′ 45″ E., bearing from Pedro Branco N. 51½° W., distant 19 miles, is high, and steep to, having 12 or 14 fathoms water around; and very close to its West end, there is a small island which cannot be distinguished from the larger, when to the westward of them; Mendoza's Island is not inhabited. About 1 mile to the northward of Mendoza's Island, lies TSINCOE ISLAND, which is small but very remarkable, from having a gap nearly in the centre; there is no danger near this island, there being 12 fathoms water in the channel between it and Mendoza's Island, and 9 Middle fathoms to the northward. MIDDLE ROCKS, bearing nearly West from the extreme of Fokai Point, are well above water, with deep water round them, and no hidden danger: about 1 mile N. 17° E. from these rocks, and situated near the shore, lies Fisherman's Island, which is small, having a rocky reef between it and the shore. FOKAI POINT, bearing N. 52° E. from Mendoza's Island, distant 2½ miles, is the extremity of a high promontory; the land is high near the point, and from its being connected with the adjoining high land by a low and narrow isthmus, has very much the appearance of an island when viewed from the East or westward. On the first hill from the extreme point, there is a fort, named TY-SING, or GREAT STAR; there are several pieces of cannon mounted on it, but like most of the forts on this coast, appears to be in a ruinous state.

Harlem Bay or Ping-hoi.

HARLEM BAY, called PING-HOI by the Chinese, is formed to the westward of the high part of Fokai, and to the North-eastward of Mendoza's and the other small islands; it cannot be considered a safe place for a ship to ride during a Ty-foong, when the winds are liable to shift suddenly to different points of the compass, but affords tolerable shelter from a N. E. or Easterly gale. The Antelope riding in 5 fathoms (which is as close as a ship could go), when blowing a gale from East, not only experienced strong gusts of wind from over the low isthmus, but such a heavy sea tumbling in round Fokai Point, which acting across the wind, made her roll very deep, and obliged Capt. Ross to weigh and run for another anchorage. He, therefore, recommends to navigators when a Ty-foong is apprehended, not to seek shelter in Harlem Bay, but proceed about 9 or 10 miles more westerly, to a large and safe harbour (situated in the place assigned to Bias Bay) which will be described hereafter.

If you are coming from the eastward and bound for Harlem Bay, round Fokai Point in 13 or 14 fathoms, about a ¼ mile off, and after rounding the point, either haul up along the eastern shore, to pass between it and the Middle Rocks, carrying 7 and 8 fathoms water through, or pass between the Middle Rocks and Tsincoe Island, carrying 10 and 11 fathoms: in this route, if the wind is easterly, it will perhaps be best in a small ship, to prefer the first mentioned passage, as she will fetch the anchorage without tacking; but in a large ship, go to the westward of the Middle Rocks, although you should have to make a tack, as in this channel you will be far enough from the high land to avoid the variable flaws of wind, and the disagreeable consequence that might arise from being baffled in a narrow channel. If you proceed to the eastward of the Middle Rocks, remember that about North from them, and West from Fisherman's Island about ⅓ of a mile, there is a small rocky patch, with 4 fathoms on it at low water. The bearings at the anchorage in Harlem Bay, in 5 fathoms

* Sye, i.e. little.

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were, a small pagoda on a little hill above the circular fort, S. 73° E., Fisherman's Island S. 17° E., about 1 mile distant, Middle Rocks S. nearly 2 miles, Tsincoe Island S. 13½° W.*

Geo. Site of Fokai Point.

Close to where the low isthmus joins the high land to Fokai Point, the entrance of a creek runs up into the low land; it is very shoal, almost dry about the entrance at low water, although large merchant vessels and war boats are sometimes laid up in the creek. From the summit of Tsincoe Island, a city is visible a short distance inland, said to be Ping-hoi, and that the creek goes up near to it: on the western side of Fokai Point, there is a village, which no doubt could furnish refreshments, if wanted. Fokai Point is in lat. 22° 33′ N., lon. 114° 53′ E., distant about 20 miles N. W. ¼ N. from Pedro Branco. The fleet of European ships touched at this bay, December 28th, 1804. on their passage from England round New Holland to Canton River.

Bias Bay.

PYRAMID POINT, the South extreme of LOO-KAUP ISLAND, bears from the western part of Mendoza's Island N. 72° W., distant 10 miles; and from Mendoza's Island N. 56° W., distant 7 miles, lies a brown rock considerably above water, and a high island, named Woong-mow, a little way to the N. N. W. of that rock. Between Woong-mow Island, and Pyramid Point to the westward, there is an entrance of 3 miles wide leading into a deep and safe harbour, by Europeans named BIAS BAY, and TY-LO-SO by the Chinese: it extends northward about 9 miles from Woong-mow Island, and is 4½ miles broad, formed by high land on the northern and eastern sides, and numerous small islands on the western, dividing it from Ty-poong Harbour: the depth is 10 fathoms at the entrance, gradually decreasing as you run up to the northward, or haul toward the eastern shore.

Directions for going into the harbour.

If coming from the eastward, you intend to enter Bias Bay or Harbour, pass round Mendoza's Island at a mile distance, and from the western part of the island steer N. W. by W. or W. N. W. for the opening between Pyramid Point and Woong-mow Island; as before stated, there is a large brown rock above water a little way to the S. E. of Woong-mow, and both the rock and island are situated a short way to the westward of the western point of Harlem Bay, off which you will perceive some dry rocks; one of these, from its size and white appearance, is conspicuous, from which, the point was called White Rock Point. From Mendoza's Island to the entrance of Bias Bay, the depth will be from 13, to 10 and 9½ fathoms on a mud bottom; if the wind will not allow you to steer for the entrance, and it become necessary to turn, remember, there are two sunken rocks 7¾ miles West from Mendoza's Island; therefore, when standing in that direction, do not go farther West than to bring Woong-mow N. ¼ E. until you have brought Tsincoe Island to the southward of East: another mark is, not to bring Acoong-chow Rock to the southward of S. by W. ½ W. when you are standing to the westward; these sunken rocks are the only dangers you have to guard against. When you have arrived between Woong-mow and Pyramid Point, if the wind is easterly, pass nearest to the former in 9 fathoms water, and from thence steer up North: you will perceive a small island situated near the eastern shore about 2¼ miles above Woong-mow, and its surface much covered with long grass and detached black rocks; this island is named Sam-coke, and between it and Woong-mow, but nearest to the latter, there is a small rock, even with the surface at high tide; and the ground is not clear, close round the rock. Proceeding up the harbour, you have very regular soundings, from 9 fathoms decreasing gradually,

* In 1810, Captain Wainwright in H. M. ship Chiffone, rode out an easterly gale in Harlem Bay, and was of opinion, that a rock lay in the passage between Mendoza's Island and Middle Rocks, as a high breaker was seen in that direction at times, but it could not be found by the boats. Capt. Ross also searched for it, and worked about that part in the vessel, and had never less than 10 or 11 fathoms water; he also made enquiries of the numerous fishermen who are always employed about that spot, but none of them knew of any rock being there; it is therefore, probable, that the breaker proceeded from the ebb tide running out of Bias Harbour, between Mendoza's Island and Tsincoe, which meets the strong current that generally runs to the westward along the coast, when the wind blows from the eastward.

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and will observe several sandy beaches on the East side, and the remarkable rock named Chueng-poon-chow to the westward, situated in the passage that leads toward Ty-poong Harbour: continue your course above Sam-coke Island, and the point that is about 1⅓ mile to the northward of it, after which, you may anchor any where between this last mentioned point and two small green islands, called Tsang-chow, situated to the northward near the shore. You will find 5½ or 5 fathoms mud to be a good birth, about 1½ mile off the eastern side of the bay, where you are land-locked, and distant 4½ miles above Woong-mow, bearing S. or S. ½ E. On the eastern shore, there are several villages, very populous, where no doubt refreshments could be obtained. If the wind is unfavorable for making a direct course up the harbour, you may turn up, there being no danger whatever, gradually decreasing your depth when standing to the eastward, and increasing it when standing to the West toward the islands. There are a number of stages erected about the harbour, which consist of two large spars driven into the ground about 10 feet asunder, having a winch on them, with which the fishermen heave up their nets; be careful and not run them down, as, besides distressing the owner, they are strong enough to injure your copper and sheathing.

Tsang-Chow.

TSANG-CHOW, or GREEN ISLANDS, are 8½ miles above Woong-mow, and in the narrow channel to the East of them, there are but 2 fathoms water: to the westward of them, there are 5 fathoms, to the northward 3½ and 3 fathoms in the middle, decreasing to either shore, which would afford an excellent situation for a small ship to repair any damages sustained. On the northern shore of the inlet, about 3 miles up, is situated the town or city of Fan-to-kong, which is the residence of a mandarin of some rank, perhaps the 3d or 4th order.*

About 4 miles to the W. N.W. of the two small islands, Tsang-chow, there is a tall pagoda on a small green island, near the northern shore.

Hong-hai Bay,

adjacent, Islands,

and coast.

HONG-HAI BAY, situated about 6 leagues to the N. Eastward of Fok-ai Point, is extensive; but in the upper part of it, the water shoals to 3 or 4 fathoms, and it is entirely open to S.W. and Southerly winds. There are several islands interspersed over this bay, of which the largest, Hong-hai, lies in the middle of it, the town of this name, and the large town of Ty-sammee on the East side, which has a harbour for salt junks, with 2 fathoms water on the bar, at the upper part. There are two sharp rocky islets at the entrance of the bay, 1½ mile N. N. E. and S. S.W. of each other, named Toong-teng, and Sy-teng, and about 6 miles to the S. W. of them, lies a white rock,† called Pauk Pyah by the Chinese, flat at the top, and of moderate height, which bears East from Fok-ai Point 7¾ miles; and 1¾ mile to the S. S.W. of it, there is a sunken rock, shewing only breakers in a high sea, with 13 fathoms water close to it: and breakers were seen a little way to the North and N, E. of Toong-teng and Sy-teng, when the sea ran high. The passage between Fok-ai Point and these rocks is safe, with 12 and 13 fathoms water, and 10 or 11 fathoms between them and the two rocky islets mentioned above, which shoals to 6 fathoms close to Hong-hai Island. But if obliged to pass in shore, either go to the northward of the White Rock, or at least 3 miles to the southward.

* The Antelope procured a large supply of poultry, some bullocks, vegetables, &c., at this place, through the interpreter, all of which he no doubt procured at a cheap rate. Europeans must, however, always lay their account at paying the Canton Compradore's price, if they employ a Chinese to purchase for them, as they seem to think themselves bound to prevent your getting it cheaper, and although they do not benefit themselves, will instruct the seller as to the price he should demand, satisfied that he has made you pay so much of your money to one of his countrymen.
This remark was made by Capt. Ross, who did not land himself at this place, and it is chiefly from the accurate survey of the South Coast of China, by this able officer, and his coadjutor Capt. Maughan, that the foregoing instructions have been given to navigators.

† This rock has sometimes been mistaken for Pedro Branco, but it bears from the latter N. 21½° W., distant 15¼ miles.

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TY-SAMMEE INLET, is in lat. 22° 36½′ N., distant 10 leagues about N. N. E. from Pedro Branco, situated on the western side of the high land that forms Kin-ngao West Point. where the Antelope anchored in 5 fathoms, at this place, close to a sandy point on the starboard side, abreast of the town, where the anchorage was very confined, and the entrance, shoal, some distance off, having only 3¼ fathoms at high water: a reef of rocks extends also nearly 2 miles to the westward, off the southern side of the entrance.

and coast.

Kin-ngao West Point, forms the eastern extremity of the bay, and fronting it to the S. Eastward, there are three islands with rocks near them; the depths a little way outside of these islands are 10 and 11 fathoms, and they should not be approached under the latter depths. Kin-ngao East point, called also Sha-long-tow, situated about 4 leagues more to the eastward, has two islets and a reef projecting from it, with 13 fathoms water within a mile of the outer islet; and this point, is the western extremity of the bay Hie-che-tchin. The coast, in some places near the sea, is low and sandy, but betwixt Mirs Bay and this place, the country inland is generally high, with many hills of similar appearance to each other. Mostly all the hills and islands on the coast, have a steep, rocky, and sterile appearance, although some of them are crowned with verdure.

Geo. Site of pedro Brance.

TY-SING-CHAM, or PEDRO BRANCO, in lat. 22° 19½′ N., lon. 115° 7¾′ E., bearing from Fok-ai Point S. 42° E., distant 19 miles, or 49 miles eastward of the East end of Great Lema, fronts the western part of Hong-hai Bay, being about 5 leagues to the S. S. Eastward of the other white rock, situated at the entrance of that bay. When bearing North, it appears separated into two rocks, and the summit is of a white colour; it is bold to approach, having 20 fathoms close to the outside, and 19 or 18 fathoms on the North side, decreasing to 13 fathoms near the other White Rock (mentioned above) in the channel between them, which is wide and safe. The depths increase regularly in the offing, to 40, fathoms about 10 or 11 leagues to the southward of Pedro Branco.

Geo. Site of Shalong-tow.

SHALONG-TOW, or Kin-ngao East Point, in lat. 22°39½′ N., lon. 115° 35½′ E., forming the western extremity of Hie-che-tchin Bay, is very remarkable, of moderate height, composed of red sand, with many rugged rocks scattered over it. At a little distance on the western side of the point, there is a small battery, many of which are seen along this coast, no doubt intended for the protection of the fishing boats against the pirates. To the westward of Shalong-tow, the land is mountainous, forming several small bays, with beaches, and it extends 11 miles about W. by N. to Kin-nagao West Point, which is high and bluff. About 5 miles to the W. by S. of Shalong-tow Point, there is a cluster of rocks above water, and about 3 miles to the N. W. of these, lies another cluster: close around the first cluster 10 fathoms water was found on a mud bottom, but several other rocks are detached between them and the shore, rendering the passage unsafe between the two clusters of rocks. If proceeding from this point to the westward in the night, by preserving 16 fathoms water, you will pass between Pauk Pyah and Pedro Branco in mid-channel: the latter bears from Shalong-tow S. W. ½W., distant 32½ miles.

Hie-che-tchin Bay.

HIE-CHE-TCHIN BAY, or KHEE-SEAK BAY, formed on the East side of Shalong-tow Point, extends a considerable way inland to the northward, with depths of 7, to 5 and 6 fathoms, and 3 or 3½ fathoms at the upper part. It affords shelter from West, and northerly winds, and from the N. E. monsoon; but is exposed to S. E. and Southerly winds. Khee-seak City lies a little inland, about 5 miles within the East point of the bay, called Teng-mee by the fishermen, and this point is fronted by two remarkable white rocks, the first called Toong-cat, lies to the S. S. E. about a mile off, and Sy-cat or Khee-seak, the other

* By Capt. Ross, in his survey of this coast, who determined its situation by a series of triangles from Macao, together with repeated admeasurements by good chronometers.

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rock, lies about 3 miles to the S. Westward, having 11 and 12 fathoms water between them. The Investigator passed between Toong-cat and a reef which projects from the shore, in 10 fathoms water.

Geo. Site of Teng-mee.

Passao Point.

TENG-MEE, in lat. 22° 45′ N., lon. 115° 50′ E. is a high point of land, bearing E. N. E. from Shalong-tow, distant 15 miles, and forms the Eastern point of the Great Bay, called Hie-che-tchin Bay: on the West side of the bay, about 4¼ miles N. E. by N. of Shalongtow, there is a remarkable little rocky island, named Kimsue, or Kemsue, between which and the land to the westward, was found a safe channel of 7 and 8 fathoms water: hereabout, is good anchorage for a ship, if merely waiting for a Westerly or S. Westerly gale to blow over. About 1¼ mile to the N. N. W. of Kemsue, lies a cluster of rocks, between which and the island, we found 6 and 7 fathoms water, and a short distance to the northward of the rocks, there is a projecting point of land of moderate height, with numerous rocks scattered over its surface: this forms the Southern point of a little bay and port, which lies farther to the westward, and it is called Passa , or Pauk-sha-oo Point, that being the name of the little bay situated between it and another high point having a battery on it; all the sides of this bay are formed by sand hills. Between the Battery Point and the high land to the northward, there is an opening into a deep harbour, to the westward: the entrance of this is nearly barred by rocks, and the harbour too shoal for vessels drawing above 8 feet water; but between the battery and Passa Points, we anchored in 3 and 3½ fathoms in the Discovery several times, when it was blowing strong from southward. Saw no danger hereabout, excepting a little rock, under water, and distant about 100 yards to the N. E. of Passa Point. The bottom of the Great Bay is 11½ miles from the bearing line of the two extreme points, and is formed of low land with a sandy beach; near the eastern part of this beach there is a small branch of a river or creek, and the country, when viewed from an elevation, appeared populous and well cultivated. The eastern side of the Great Bay, is formed by high mountainous land, and about 5 miles within Teng-mee Point, there are several white rocks detached a little from the shore: near to these rocks, we anchored in the Discovery, when twice compelled to ride out heavy easterly gales, but found it very unpleasant riding, owing to a heavy sea rolling in from the southward.

A short distance to the westward of Tend mee Point there is a fort, and a squadron of war boats are stationed in the Little Bay there, called by the fishermen Chin : these boats are obliged to run over to the shoal harbour on the western side, whenever the wind blows strong.

The soundings all over the Great Bay are very regular, under 12 fathoms gradually decreasing from across the entrance, to the shores within; the bottom is soft mud, excepting, just within Teng mee Point, where it is rocky for a little way, and should not be passed at less than a mile from the land.

Geo. Site of Cup-chee-san

CUP-CHEE-SAN, in lat. 22° 49½′ N., lon. 116° 7h.' E., is a broken point of land, very rocky, and has several detached rocks lying 1½ mile to the southward: this point bears from Teng-mee Point E. by N. ¼ N., distant 17 miles, and about half way between them, there is a cluster of rocks a little detached from the shore. Opposite to the rocks lies the entrance into a small river or creek, with a tower which the Chinese named Oo-tong; there were numerous fishing boats up this river. Close to the westward of Cup-chee-san (or Shan) there is another small branch of a river; from the ship we could see the walls of Cup-chee City, and two or three tall pagodas a little way up. This appears a place of consequence, as several junks masts were seen, and numerous other smaller vessels; but it does not afford any shelter for European vessels. Close in to the forts which defend the entrance of the river, the water is very shoal, and the entrance narrow; it must, therefore, be only at high water, that the junks can pass in or out: there are also some detached rocks about the bay. In passing between Teng-mee Point and Cup-chee, soundings of 9 and 10 fathoms were very regular at

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3 miles distance from the shore; and close to the detached rocks off the latter point, had 11 and 12 fathoms water.

Geo. Site of Black Mount.

BLACK MOUNT, in lat. 22° 52½′ N, lon. 116° 11′ E., is a remarkable little black conical hill, about 4½ miles to the N. E. of Cup-chee Point, which is situated a little way from the beach, and on a down of red sand.

Geo. Site of Breaker Point.

BREAKER POINT, in lat. 22° 56¾′ N., lon. 116° 31½′ E., is low and rocky, having within it some hummocks of black rocks and red sand. From this point, the coast begins to trend more northerly, and ships when passing it, should keep about 2 miles off, as the ground near it is in some parts foul. Breaker Point bears from Cup-chee Point N. 70° 30′ E., distant 23 miles; in the bottom of a bay about mid-way between them, lies a large town, with two tall pagodas on the hills, where numerous fishing vessels were seen in a creek or inlet, near the town. From Cup-chee Point direct towards Breaker Point, we had very regular soundings of 10 and 11 fathoms; and in passing round the Great Bay, had 7 and 8 fathoms. Between the Black Mount and the town, is one continued high sandy beach; a short distance on both sides of Breaker Point, there are small batteries; and in a little bay, 4 miles to the N. E., there is an, inlet or creek, as well as a walled town, which the fishermen named Chino hai, or Hoi.

Geo. Site of Cape of Good Hope.

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE (of the old Charts). In lat. 23° 13¾′ N., lon. 116° 50′ E., bearing from Breaker Point N. 43¾° E., distant 8 leagues, is of moderate height, and has near to it 11 and 12 fathoms water. About 8 miles to the W. S. W. of it there is a high projecting point of the coast, having a few rocks about ½ mile off it, and the hill itself is very rocky. Close to the westward of the point lies the entrance of a small river or inlet, which the Chinese fishermen named Hai-mun, or Hai-moon, and on the right side, we saw the walls of a city: this is the third place from Macao where the Chinese have a few war boats stationed. In passing from Breaker Point along the shore northward, at the distance of a mile in some places, and at others about 2 miles off, had very regular soundings from 14 fathoms, gradually decreasing to 9 fathoms off Hai-mun Point. In Hai-mun Bay, to the southward of Hai-mun Point about 3 miles, there is a small Rocky Bank about 1, or 1¼ mile off shore, having 1½, 2, and 2½ fathoms water on it, discovered by Capt. Parkyn's, in the Merope, belonging to Calcutta, which ship struck hard, and passed over it, March 4th, 1824: it lies in the stream of 5 fathoms, and has 4 fathoms soft ground between it and the shore. The coast to the eastward of the Cape of Good Hope trends to the North and N. N. W., and soon becomes so low as not to be visible at a few leagues distance; but there are high mountains in the interior.

Nearly North from the Cape of Good Hope, there is a small round island, with a tall pagoda on it, in lat. 23° 26¼′ N., and 2½ miles farther eastward, there is another irregular shaped island with a fort on it. Between the latter island and the western point of Lamo Island, there is the western entrance of a strait, through which numerous coasters daily pass, conveying the trade between the Eastern and Western provinces.

Geo. Site of Lamo Island.

LAMO, or NAMOA ISLAND, the Western point is in lat. 23° 28′ N., lon. 116° 59½′ E., and the N. E. point in lat. 23° 32′ N., lon. 117° 13′ E. It is formed by two high mountains, which are connected by a low isthmus at ⅓ of its length from the Western point. The principal town of Namoa is in a bay on its North side, near the eastern extreme, where a mandarin of rank resides, with a squadron of war boats at his command. There are two small islands lying in the eastern part of this bay, on one of which there is a fort. In entering the straits from the westward, we passed over a sand bank at low water spring tide, about 4 miles to the southward of Lamo West Point, carrying 4¼ fathoms about 2 miles, then

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deepened into 5, 6, and 7 fathoms as we entered. When we anchored in 4½ fathoms on the bank, to allow our boat to sound round us, the pagoda on the island bore N. 691° W., the Outer Lamock Island S. 71½° E., and the summit of the Cape of Good Hope S. 40° W. The boat had only 3½ fathoms water to the westward, yet all the large junks were observed to pass that way. A line of fishing stakes extends a long way from the West point of Lam towards a small high island situated 2½ miles to the N.W. There are several openings for vessels to pass through, but a ship should adopt one in mid-channel, as a mud flat extends a short distance off the North side of Lam , close to the eastward of the fishing stakes. A watering place was found on the North side, at the beach nearest the West end of the island; and there is a small island nearly in the middle of the bay, which is formed to the northward of the low isthmus: we passed between this and a cluster of rocks to the northward, and found the channel safe, with good soundings of 6 and 7 fathoms, excepting a little to the eastward of the small island; where, at low watery we had 4 fathoms on a muddy bottom.

Geo. Site of lamock island.

LAMOCK ISLAND, in lat. 23° 17′ N., lon. 117° 21′ E., is the S.W. or largest of the islands of this name; there are three islands and a large rock, the latter being the northernmost, and they extend 4 miles N. E. by N. and S. E. by S. A reef of rocks, some of them above water, extends nearly 5 miles to the S. W. of the southern island; close along the S. E. side of this reef and the islands, we passed in 19 and 20 fathoms soft ground; and, once when blowing fresh with a heavy swell, we passed between the Lamock Islands and four other smaller islands, situated nearer to the large island of Lamo; these, in the old charts, are called Lamon Islands, and in this passage, we were very close to a rock under water, on which the sea seldom broke; and, as there may be other rocks hereabout, a ship should not pursue this route until it is better examined. The Auspicious, in April, 1807, passed betwixt Lamo Island and the other groups in the offing, and had pretty regular soundings; but care is necessary to avoid a reef of rocks even with the water's edge, which lies off the East end of Lamo Island.

A ship passing outside of the Lamock Islands in the night, should not come under 24 fathoms towards their eastern side, for the soundings are not very regular on that side, and the deepest water is found there.

Reefs.

The Merope, Capt. Parkyns, in 1824, had regular soundings of 7, 6½, to 8 fathoms, between the northern part of Lamo Island and the coast, within 3 and 4 miles of the latter; and from having 9 fathoms within 1½ mile of the N. E. point of Lamo, the soundings were between 10 and 15 fathoms for 3 leagues in an easterly direction, till close to the two reefs DIOYU, and CHELSIEU, which are both seen above water at times, and lie about 2½ or 3 miles from each other, in a N. W. by W. and S. E. by E. direction. The former of these reefs, bears from the N. E. point of Lamo E. N. E., distant 3 leagues, and Chelsieu bears about E. ¾ N. from the same point nearly 4 leagues: the Merope passed between them in 13 and 14 fathoms water; outside of Chelsieu she had the same depths, and inside of Dioyu, within 2 miles of the coast, she had 7 and 8 fathoms regular soundings. There are several deep inlets or bays to the N. Eastward of these reefs, with small islands and depths of 5 and 4 fathoms in the entrance of some of them; to the eastward of these inlets stands Quinga-chin Town, in the bay of this name, having 4 and 5 fathoms water inside of the island and point, which forms its S. E. extremity, but this bay does not extend far inland.

Jocak-ko Point.

JOCAK-KO POINT, in lat. 23° 37′ N., situated about 2 leagues to the E. by N. of the S. E. point of Quinga-chin Bay, has two islands near it on the South side, and two fronting it to the eastward, which point and islands are bold to approach, there being 12 and 13 fathoms water close to the point, between it and the two islands that front its eastern extremity. The Brothers lie E. ¾ S. and E. by S. ¼ S. from this point, about 12 or 13 miles.

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From Jocak-ko Point, the coast turns sharp round to N. by E., to TANG-SOA POINT and CITY, which is distant 3½ leagues, in lat. 23° 47½′ N., and on the S. W. side of the point, there is a little bay, off the city, having in it 5, 6, or 7 fathoms water. About 4 or 4½ miles to the eastward of Tang-soa Point, stands Kule-toa Point, having a large island in the mouth of the bay that is formed between these points, which seems to extend considerably inland to the northward, with good depths of water; for there are 11 and 12 fathoms in the. western channel between Tang-soa Point and the island, but the eastern channel between the latter and Kule-toa Point is much wider, with regular soundings of 8, 7, and 6 fathoms; and directly inside of the island, close under it on the North side, there are 8 fathoms water, where a ship would be sheltered from all winds, and land-locked, opposite to Tang-soa City, about 1½ mile distant.

Geo. Site of the Brothers.

BROTHERS, are two Islets or Rocks, distant 21 miles from each other, in a N. W. and S. E. direction, and about 4¼ leagues off shore: the southernmost is in lat. 23° 32′ N., lon. 117° 48′ E., and it bears from the S. W. Lamock Island N. 582° E. distant about 27½ miles. We passed close to the southern one in 24 fathoms, and also to the northward of them, where we found 20 fathoms water in a wide channel.

Geo. Site of Chapel Island.

CHAPEL ISLAND, called Nan-ting-su, or Tang-ti by the Chinese, is in lat. 24° 11′ N., lon. 118° 20′ E., and bears from the South Brother N. 36½° E. distant 47¼ miles. It is situated off Amoy Harbour, and when bearing E. N. E. or W. S.W., a hole through it is perceived: when it bore South, and about mid-channel between it and Amoy Harbour, Capt. Ross, passed over a sand bank with 6 fathoms water on it, but no less could be found.

AMOY HARBOUR, called by the fishermen Hia-men-sue, is a port of great trade, between the Eastern and S. Western provinces of China; the rock Caw-chat at its entrance, is in lat. 24° 20½′ N. lon. 118° 16½′ E., and the plan of the harbour by Mr. Felix Dayot is nearly correct.

Sailing directions from Lamock Island to amoy Harbour.

A ship bound to Amoy having rounded Lamock Islands, and the Brothers, should steer about N. E. by N. for Chapel or Perforated Island, keeping within 3 or 4 leagues of the coast. With it bearing N. by W. 4 leagues, in 26 fathoms water, a remarkable round hill may be seen on the coast, bearing about N. W. by N.; steer then to pass close to Chapel Island on either side, where the depth is 14 or 15 fathoms, if not too near the island and banks that lie toward the main. From hence, steer northward for the entrance of the bay or harbour, keeping in 11 or 12 fathoms, and Ou-su, a long island in the entrance, will soon be seen (called also Great Goeve), at each end of which, there is a rocky hill, and in the middle, a sandy bay. To the N. E. stands a pretty high rock, which may be passed on either side, but it is preferable to pass about ¾ or 1 mile to the eastward, in 16 fathoms water. From hence, the channel is perceived open, betwixt the Little Goeve (which lies to the northward of the Great one) and five islands to the N. Eastward; it is about 1½ mile wide, with 12 to 14 fathoms in mid-channel, which is the best track. When through, steer N. W. by N. for the South-west part of Amoy Island, called also Hia-men-sue, and steer along it within ½ mile distance, the soundings being very regular. The harbour is situated to the N. Westward, close to Amoy City, and easily discerned by the junks or small vessels at anchor there, betwixt the city and the island Co-long-sou, fronting it to the eastward.

On the South side of the bay, the entrance of Chin-chin River is situated; and outside, to the northward of the entrance, lies the large island, and town of Quemoy. The bay and harbour of Amoy, are very safe for any number of ships, sheltered from all winds; but although it is the chief port of the province of Fokien, no Europe ships have been permitted to trade there for a considerable time. At present, it seems difficult for a ship touching

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here, to procure articles of any kind;* the Mandarins are liable to feel the displeasure of government, if a discovery is made, that they have offered any encouragement to induce foreign ships to visit the out-ports along the coast.

The tide rises from 18 to 20 feet on the springs, in the harbour, high water on full and change of moon at 12 hours 30 minutes, by Captain Parkyn's observations in 1824.

Toe-kow.

TOE-KOW, in lat. 24° 48′ N., distant about 11 or 12 leagues to the N, E. of the entrance of Amoy Harbour, is an open bay, exposed to N. E. and Easterly winds; the anchorage is within a mile of a reef of rocks bearing to the S. Westward, and a shoal bears from it S. by E. There is sometimes a demand for opium at this place, but there is difficulty in procuring the dollars for it, and the danger is great, if a gale come from eastward whilst a ship remains at anchor in the road; there being no room to work out to sea, she must trust to her ground tackle. About 3 miles to the N. E. of this place, there is another small bay, full of rocks and foul ground.

Geo. Site of Chin-Chew Bay.

CHIN-CHEW BAY, in about lat. 24° 54′ N., lon. 118° 40′ E., about 3 or 4 leagues to the N. Eastward of Toe-kow, is a fine large bay, well sheltered from northerly and southerly winds, by the projecting points of land on each side. From the outermost point, which forms the western side of the bay, a reef and sand bank stretches to a considerable distance, which should have a good birth in rounding the point. Chin-Chew Harbour and Town, are situated at the bottom of the hay, on the western side; the harbour is covered from the bay by a point of land, having on it a large square pagoda: on the other side of the point, may be seen the numerous masts of the junks which are moored in the harbour.

Lam-yet Islands.

Geo. Site.

To the N. Eastward of Chin-chew Bay, in about lat. 25° 0′ N., the LAM-YET Islands commence, and these with other groups, form a great chain of islands stretching along the coast to the N. Eastward, many of them only rugged rocks. There are safe channels betwixt some of these groups of islands, and places of shelter inside of several of them. Ocksou, or the southernmost island of the Lain-yet range, was found to be in lat. 24° 59¼′ N., lon. 119° 34½′ E. by chronometers in the ships of the embassy under Lord Amherst, when they passed between it and the main, and had not less than 13 fathoms water: these islands appeared very barren and red.

Geo. Site of Ting-hoy Harbour.

TING-HOY HARBOUR, in lat. 26° 10′ N., lon. 119° 57′ E. is a safe anchorage, where the Canton was piloted into by a fisherman, August 7th, 1797; she anchored in 7½ fathoms blue mud, opposite to the town, entirely surrounded by land. Here, she procured 40 butts of water, and a few bullocks; sailed August 18th, for Macao, and arrived there September 7th. After weighing from Ting-hoy Harbour, she steered between E. S. E. and South in passing out amongst the islands which front the bay and harbour, the soundings regular from 7 to 16 fathoms, soft ground.

And to sail into it.

About 3 or 4 leagues South from Ting-hoy Point and Town, there is a rocky bank, sometimes dry, situated about 2 leagues from Mey-hou-so Point, which forms the southern extreme of the bay. The depths in this channel, are from 10 to 15 fathoms between the rocky bank and the island, and about the same, betwixt Mey-hou-so Point and the group of islands, situated abreast of it: between this group and the next islands to the northward, the passage is wide and safe, with a rocky islet bounding it on the North side, which having rounded, a ship should steer westward for Ting-hoy Road, if bound there. This may be considered the

* The Canton, after losing her masts, rudder, and boats, in a Ty-foong, July 2d, 1797, to the eastward of Luconia, in lat. 18° N., lon. 127° E., was drifted round to the northward of the Island Formosa; on the 24th of August she anchored in 8 fathoms water at the entrance of Amoy Harbour, where she remained till the 31st. They could not get any supplies here, nor would the Mandarin forward a letter to Canton with 50 dollars paid down; and what water they procured, was brought from the shore in a boat they had built on board.

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best channel to pass through amongst the islands, into the bay, and it is about 4 leagues to the eastward of the point.

The river Chang falls into the bottom of this bay, and about 7 leagues up, stands the city of Fu-chew, or Hou-chew; at the entrance of the river, there are several islands and banks, separated by narrow channels from each other, and a little inside of these banks, there are 6 or 7 fathoms water.

Winds. and weather

N. Easterly winds prevail on this part of the coast, generally during nine months of the year, or from the beginning of September to June; when these winds blow strong, which often happens, the weather becomes very thick with rain, rendering the navigation unpleasant and hazardous. These N. Easterly winds, sometimes set in very early; for the Eaton bound to Chusan, when off Amoy, about the 4th of August, 1699, got N. E. winds, and with much labour, was six or seven weeks getting from thence to Chusan: the Limpo at this time, bound to the same port, was forced to cut away her main and mizen masts, and bear away for Macao; and Captain Hosier, in August and September, 1700, could not gain his passage to Chusan.

Ladrones.

Small ships on this coast, ought to be guarded against any attack from the Chin-chew Ladrones, drones, who have been often very numerous here, and on other parts of the coast, some of their junks having 6 or 8 guns, and from 100 to 200 men.

The ship Ann, Captain John Churchman, from the Island Timor, bound to Canton River with a cargo of sandal-wood and wax, was boarded by the Chinese Ladrones near the Lema Islands in 1808, who killed the Captain, officers, and all the crew, except five or six Lascars: of these, three reached Canton in February, 1810, and related the circumstance.

Hey-san Islands.

HEY-SAN, or BLACK ISLANDS, in lat. 28° 53′ N. are a group of islands situated a few miles distant from the coast opposite, and near them, the depth is 22 fathoms. A ship sailing from the islands off Ting-hoy Point toward the Hey-san group, should not borrow too near the coast in the night, on account of other islands scattered along it in some places.

Geo. Site of Que-san Islands.

channels, and daugers near them.

QUE-SAN ISLANDS, are the next group to the northward, and distant 5 or 6 leagues from the main; the S. Easternmost, called Pata-he-cock, or Table Island, is in lat. 29° 22′ N. lon. 122° 11′ 54″ E. by four good chronometers, in six days run from thence to Macao. These are the southernmost islands of the Thusan or Chusan Archipelago, and are those which ships steer to make, when coming from the South toward Chusan; being considerably detached from the others, and fronting the bay that leads to the southern or best channel, they are easily known. To the westward of the Que-san group, there is near the main, an island with some islets or rocks contiguous, called the Bear and Cubs; and the nearest group to the N. W. of the Que-sans, is called the Whelps. Farther to the N. W. there are other groups of isles and rocks on the S. W. side of the channel, the most considerable of which, is an island called the Buffalo's Nose. At the N. W. part of this island there is good anchorage in 10 fathoms, between it and the adjacent islands called the Ploughman, and the Calves, where ships bound to Chusan, ought to stop until a pilot is procured. H. M. S. Lion, at anchor here, in stiff clay bottom, was sheltered from all winds, with the Ploughman bearing N. W. by N. and the North end of the Buffalo's Nose N. E. by N., and procured bullocks, goats, and fowls, at moderate prices.

There is a channel on each side of the Que-san Islands, leading to the bay, but there are two rocks in the South Channel, which require care in passing. One of these is a small rock covered at high water, bearing about S. W. by W. from Pata-he-cock, distant 4 leagues, which is avoided by keeping within 1 or 2 leagues of the Que-san Islands. The other rock, on which the Holderness struck, lies near these islands; when on it, the East end of the Buffalo's Nose bore about N. N. W., largest of the group called the Whelps N. N. W. ½ W., body of the southernmost small Que-san S. E., peak in the centre of the second Que-san

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S. E. by E., three small rocks (of which two only are visible at high water) E. S. E. ½ S., body of the third Que-san East, distant 1¼ or 1½ mile, and the northernmost part of the Que-sans N. N. E. Betwixt this rock and the other to the S. W., the depths are 6 and 7 fathoms; close to the westward of the Whelp group, there are 5 fathoms, and 7 fathoms in the fair channel to the eastward.

Lo-wang and its adjoining channels.

LO-WANG, is a large island about 7 or 8 leagues to the northward of the Que-san group, between which and the East end of Chusan Island, there are several narrow channels that lead to the harbour, through amongst the islands of the Archipelago; but that to the southward of Lo-wang and its adjoining isles, having the Buffalo's Nose and the Ploughman on the West side of it, is considered the best. Betwixt the West end of Lo-wang and the opposite low coast, the channel is contracted by islands, and separates into three passages; that close to the West part of Lo-wang, is not 3 miles wide, with depths of 100 and 120 fathoms in some parts. This passage is bounded on the West side by several small islands, and one of considerable extent, called Foo-to-san, having two islands off its South end. The passage round these islands to the southward, has 7 and 8 fathoms water, which deepens to 50 and 120 fathoms near the West point of Foo-to-san. The third, or land passage, is formed between the island last mentioned, and the low land to the northward, which is partly covered on spring tides; and in it, the depths are from 14 to 24 fathoms. Being abreast of the Whelps, a N. N. W. course leads fair through the channel toward the West end of Lo-wang, where it separates into the three passages described above; and when through either of these, the channel takes a N. E. direction to Kee-to Point, which is high, and distant 5 or 6 leagues. There is anchorage on either side of the land that forms this point, about 3 or 4 miles to the southward of the point; but off it, there is no ground at 100 fathoms, with strong eddies and a rapid tide betwixt it and an island and rock to the eastward, which may be passed either to the East or westward.

Chusan Harbour.

CHUSAN HARBOUR, is 3 or 4 leagues to the northward of Kee-to Point, formed by numerous islands at the entrance, one of which, called Deer Island, lies well out, directly South from the city of Chusan, and bounds the entrance to the harbour on the N. E. side; the South side of it is bounded by an island called the Elephant, and the adjoining islands to the northward. There is a rock in the entrance of the harbour, on which the Hindostan struck, which is avoided by keeping Kee-to Point open with Deer Island; it lies off Sarah Galley Island, which is small, and when on with the Flagstaff on Chusan Hill, a ship will be abreast of the rock.

Geo. Site of the city.

The depths in the harbour are from 5 to 9 fathoms, where ships moor abreast of the city, surrounded by land, and sheltered from all winds. The city of Chusan is in lat. about 30° 26′ N., lon. 121° 41′ E., or 21 leagues to the northward of the Que-san islands; it stands near the S. W. end of the island Chusan, which gives name to this extensive Archipelago, and is much larger than any of the others. The tides are very irregular amongst the islands, and although the water is of great depth in some places, there are several good harbours formed between the numerous islands, with moderate depths of water. Outside of the islands, at a small distance, the depths are from 20 to 30 fathoms.

THE FOLLOWING REMARKS, for sailing into Chusan Harbour, taken from the Northumberland's journal, may probably be of use to any ship which hereafter visits the port.

Remarks for sailing to Chusan Harbour.

July 1st, 1704, saw land bearing N. W. ½ N. distant about 12 leagues, making in a high peak, and shortly after, saw land all round, with Pata-he-cock Island bearing as above; steered from W. to W. N. W., leaving it and the Que-san Islands on our larboard side, and a

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small island in mid-channel with a rock off it, on our starboard side At 9 P.M. anchored in 6½ fathoms, with the North point of the Buffalo's Nose W. N.W. distant 5 miles.

At 4 A. M., July 2d, weighed with the wind at S. S. E., and steered N.W. till we brought the passage open, then edged in N. by W. North, and N. by E., keeping Lo-wang close aboard, leaving Gotto Island on the larboard, and Bird Island on the starboard side, having no ground 20 fathoms, until well over to Kee-to Point, had then 17, decreasing to 11 fathoms, when at 11 A. M, anchored in 10 fathoms with Kee-to Point N. ½ E., Round-about Island N. by E. ½ E. distant 2 leagues. Finding the tides very strong, with fresh S. E. winds, shifted our birth nearer to the shore, and anchored again in 10 fathoms, with Kee-to Point N. N. E., and Round-about Island N. N. E. ½ E. distant 4 miles.

July 4th. Having got permission from a War Junk, to proceed for Chusan, at 4 P. M. weighed with the flood tide, and wind at S. S. E.; steered N. E. by N. and N. E. and passed between Kee-to Point and Round-about Island, keeping the island close aboard, as the tide sets over toward the main, then steered for the West point of Deer Island, which kept open with Kee-to Point, to avoid a sunken rock, that lies in mid-channel off Sarah Galley Island; but when the point of the island and the flagstaff on a hill of Chusan are in one, you are abreast of the rock. When clear of it, hauled up for the outer harbour, and anchored in 10 fathoms between Trumball and Sarah Galley Island, and moored with the best bower to the eastward, and the stream to the westward, the West point of Sarah Galley Island bearing S. ½ W., Trumball Hill N. by W. ½ W. distant ½ a mile.

July 18th. The Mandarins having returned to Chusan (their absence being the cause of our delay), got permission to proceed into the inner harbour, therefore, at 9 A. M. weighed with the flood, and a light breeze at North; kept close aboard of Macclesfield Island, having no ground at 19 fathoms, but when we reached the point, found the ebb tide not made, stood then over to Guardhouse Island, and in mid-channel had regular soundings 8, 7, 6, 5, 4¼, and less 4 fathoms; judging we were near the middle ground, tacked, but gaining no ground, anchored in 7¼ fathoms between it and Macclesfield Point. When the tide made, weighed, and dropt down abreast of the factory, moored on the flood in ¼ less 4 fathoms, with the best bower to the westward, and the small bower to the eastward, Guardhouse Island bearing W. by S., Factory House N. E., Trumball Hill S. S. E., Macclesfield Point S. S. W.

and to de part from it.

Weighed from Chusan Harbour, December 4th, with a fresh breeze at N.W., but the eddy tide drove us on the bank off Guardhouse Island, ran out a small anchor and hawser, and the flood tide making, hauled off into 7 fathoms, then made sail; steered S. S. E. and S. by E. keeping nearest the West side of the passage, also kept Kee-to Point and Round-about Island open, to avoid the Macclesfield Rock, and passed between that point and the island. Here, found strong ripplings; steered afterward more easterly for the S. E. passage, and at noon was fairly in the opening steering S. E., having a small round island, and a long low ragged island abreast of a deep bay, on our larboard side, John Peek's Island being on our starboard side.

Ning-Po River, and contiguous coast.

NING-PO, or LIMPO, river's entrance, is about 9 leagues to the westward of Chusan Harbour; there is a channel leading to it from Kee-to Point, another from Chusan Harbour, and the northern channel is between the coast and the northernmost of the Chusan Archipelago, which also leads to Chusan Harbour. Close to the entrance of Ning-po River, there are some small islands, betwixt which and the East point, lies the proper channel, having from 3 to 3½ fathoms on the bar at high water, and 5 to 6 fathoms inside. The city of Chinhoy stands on the West side of the entrance, and Ning-po city about 5 or 6 leagues up the river. Since the year 1756, English ships have not traded to Chusan, nor to Ning-po River; but there is a considerable trade carried on by the junks, from hence to the Japan Islands,

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distant about three or four days sail. From Ning-po River, the coast stretches about 8 or 10 leagues N. Westward to Han-chew Bay, a place of great trade.

Geo. Site of Nankin.

NANKIN, or KIAM-NIM, in about lat. 32° 5′ N., lon. 119° 0′ E., situated near the mouth of the river Kiam or Kiang, was formerly the seat of government, and a place of great trade, being the largest city in the Chinese Empire. The river is about a mile wide at the city, with deep water in it, and was formerly navigable by vessels of any size. The articles manufactured here, being generally of superior quality, a considerable trade continues to be carried on between it and other parts of the empire, chiefly by the inland navigation.

Geo. Site of Tchin-san Islands.

TCHIN-SAN ISLANDS, in lat. 30° 20′ N., lon. 122° 36′ E., are two small islands, situated to the eastward of the Chusan Archipelago, having soundings of 35 fathoms about 6 leagues outside of them. To the N. N. E. of these, about 10 or 11 leagues, in lat. 30° 45′ N. there are two other islands, called Te-tchong, and Pa-tcha-san, with soundings of 30 fathoms about 5 or 6 leagues to the eastward; and the soundings extend a great way out from this part of the coast, with strong tides or currents, veering all round the compass in 10 or 12 hours.

To sail toward the Yellow Sea.

A ship bound to the Yellow Sea, should steer about N. ½ E. and North from the islands last mentioned, until in lat. 33° N., to avoid the shoals off Kiang River, and the depth will decrease to 17 or 18 fathoms sandy bottom. From hence, the course is about N. by W. to pass mid-way between the coast of China and the S.W. extremity of Corea, into the entrance of the Yellow Sea; the same course leads directly toward Shan-tung Promontory, in soundings between 20 and 40 fathoms, shoaling to 15 and 12 fathoms, with overfalls near that head-land.

YELLOW SEA, and GULF of PE-TCHE-LEE;* with SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Geo. Site of Shan-tung Promontory.

Alceste Island.

SHAN-TUNG PROMONTORY, is the high eastern extremity of a long peninsula, projecting from the coast a great way to the eastward; the N. E. point is of moderate height, broken appearance, may be seen 6 or 8 leagues, and it appears to be formed by several small islands, having very narrow channels between them. The Eastern point, which is the easternmost land of China, is in lat. 37° 23′ 40″ N., lon. 122° 45′ E. by chronometers measured twice from Macao: the soundings are 16 and 18 fathoms about 3 leagues from the point, but increasing fast to 30 and 40 fathoms, when it is approached within 3 miles. The South point is in lat. 37° 0′ N., lon. 122° 41′ E., and there is an island about 4 or 5 miles to the S.W. with rocks between it and the main. About 2 or 3 miles to the N.W. of the N. E. point of Shan-tung, there is a small but high island, named Alceste Island, by Capt. Maxwell; it appeared to have a reef extending about ½ mile round it, and there are some rocks above water on the reef. To the westward of Alceste Island 7 or 8 miles, there is another round island situated at some distance from the main land, which forms a deep curve or bay hereabout, and is mountainous.

Mia-tau Islands.

Geo. Site.

Geo. Site of the Keu-san Islands.

After rounding Alceste Island, the ships of the embassy steered about W. by N. ½ N. to-

* By Capt. D. Ross, of the Company's surveying ship Discovery, which with her consort, the Investigator accompanied the embassy under Lord Amherst, to Pekin River, in 1816.

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wards a passage, formed by the MIA-TAU ISLANDS to the southward, and many others to the northward. In this route, we found the depth of water very regular, from 15 to 17 fathoms, on a mud bottom. Tchoo-san, the most eastern island, is first discerned, when approaching the above-mentioned passage; it is high, may be seen 9 or 10 leagues, and we made it in lat. 38° 0¾′ N., and 1° 44′ W. difference of longitude from the N. E. point of Shan-tung. We passed to the southward of Tchoo-san and another small island about 2½ miles more westerly, then steered to pass between two small islands, situated at the western entrance of the channel, and are named KEU-SANS. The Northern Keu-san is very remarkable, being like a gunner's quoin, with the highest part to the southward, and is situated in lat. 38° 8′ N., lon. 2° 0¾′ W. of the N. E. point of Shan-tang. The soundings throughout the channel were, very regular, about 11 fathoms; although the Investigator, got one or two casts of 6 fathoms on a small knowl.

Geo. Site of Cape Zeu-oo-tau,

Ki-san-seu Bay.

CAPE ZEU-OO-TAU, on the North coast of Shan-tung, in lat. 37° 35′ 50″ N., lon. 121° 28′ 10″ E., is 76¾ miles of longitude West of the N. E. point of Shan-tung; it being a high bold cape, and when seen at a distance appears like an island. To the Southward of this cape lies KI-SAN-SEU BAY, which the ships of the embassy visited to procure Water. The anchorage is exposed to the wind and sea from N. E., but sheltered by a group of small islands and rocks situated to the eastward, between the western one of which and Cape Zeu-oo-tau the passage is 1½ mile wide, through which ships must pass when entering from the northward: the soundings in this channel are 11 and 12 fathoms, decreasing to 4 and 4½ fathoms at the anchorage. There is a village on the South side of the cape, about ¾ mile from the point, defended by a fort on an elevated situation: at this village there are two wells of water; that nearest the beach was used by the ships, and found brackish; the other, being better, was kept by the inhabitants for their own use. We procured a little fruit at this place, but could not obtain any cattle for our crews: at first the inhabitants were ignorant of our money, but latterly took it for their fruit and vegetables.

Cung-Cung-tao Group

CUNG-CUNG-TAO GROUP, the Northern island or rock bears from Cape Zeu-oo-N. 82° E. distant 7½ miles, and the S. E. island bears from the Northern one S. 34½° W. distant 4¼ miles. The passage between these islands and the coast of Shan-tung, in the narrowest part, is 2½ miles wide, and the depth 5 and 6 fathoms. If a ship is passing through it in the night, she must be careful of two little sand banks, one of which is near to the southern point of the large island, and the other about 1 mile farther to the N.W.: the channel between the Northern island and the next was not examined, but we saw junks passing through. The variation of the needle was found to be 1° 50′ W., the tide rises 7 feet, high water on the day of moon's change, about 8 hours.

Ten-choo-foo.

TEN-CHOO-FOO (City), in lat. 37° 48′ N., bears about W. 20° N. from Zeu-oo-tau, distant 12 leagues; the coast between them contains some deep bays, and may be approached to 9 or 10 fathoms; and here, the water is not so deep as it is further to the eastward. The Mia-Tau group of islands, lies to the northward of Ten-choo-foo, separated from it by the Strait of Mia-Tau, in which the soundings are rather irregular, between 5½ and 6, to 14 fathoms water. A reef projects from the S. Easternmost Mia-tau Island; and from the point of land on the west side of Ten-choo-foo, a sand bank stretches some distance to the westward. From hence to the Sha-loo-goo-tien Islands the depths are 13 to 15 fathoms in the fair track, steering up the Gulf of Pe-tche-lee.

The Discovery passed to the southward of the Cung-cung-tao Islands, and steered eastward along shore to a projecting point of land, having an island a short distance to the northward, which island is in lat. 37° 34½′ N., and 41 miles to the westward of the N. E. point of Shan-tung. A rock and small reef projects off the North point of the island, and we

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passed it about 1½ mile distant, in 14 fathoms water. The coast between Ki-san-seu and this point, curves in to the southward, but no port for shipping was observed: regular tides were experienced alongst this coast.

Oie-hai-ou Harbour.

OIE-HAI-OU HARBOUR, is situated about 5 or 6 miles to the Eastward of the last mentioned island and point, the North entrance of which, is not easily discerned when coming from the westward. The harbour is formed between Leu-cung-tow, a large and high island, and a deep bight of the coast. There are several rocks above water a short distance to the westward of Leu-cung-tow, between which and the latter is the best channel into the harbour, and it is 1 mile wide; no danger is to be apprehended from the rocks, or from the West side of Leu-cung-tow, but what is visible. The soundings in the entrance are from 10 to 12 fathoms, but when abreast of a small rocky island, which is near the S.W. part of Leu-cung-tow, the depth increases suddenly to 17 fathoms, and decreases again very rapidly to 5 fathoms; after which it gradually decreases to the southern shore, and into the bay to the westward where the village is situated. Between the Southern part of Leu-cung-tow Island and the main, which is 2½ miles distant, there is a very safe passage, but over part of it there are only 3½ fathoms at low water. A ship of easy draught, about 18 feet, would find the anchorage about ½ a mile to the southward of Leu-cung-tow tolerably secure; and a large ship, were it necessary, could enter the North channel, and make choice of a birth of 5 and 6 fathoms in a deep part, just to the southward of the rocky island which is off the S.W. point of Leu-cung-tow; she would have to anchor close to the land, but in that situation would not feel any swell. The Eastern point of Leu-cung-tow is very rocky, and the rocks above water extend 1 mile off it; the distance between the rocks and the main is 2¼ miles, but in mid-channel there is a small rocky island, encircled with a reef, extending a short distance. The Discovery and Investigator turned through the Eastern channel, and found it nearly a flat, with 3¼ and 4 fathoms at low water, all to the southward of Leu-cung-tow, but the depth increased to 6 and 7 fathoms between the small island and the eastern rocks.

Geo. Site.

Observations taken on the small island off the S.W. part of Leu-cung-tow, made it in lat. 37° 30½′ N., lon. 122° 10′ 55″ East, or 34 miles of longitude West of the N. E. point of Shan-tung. Fran the small island in the Eastern passage, Alceste Island was seen bearing S. 84° E. distant about 25 miles, and the other island about 7 miles to the westward of Alceste Island bore S. 81½° E. From our first anchorage in the harbour in 5 fathoms, the Northern passage rock bore N. 38½° E., the fort at the Eastern part of the village N. 73¼° W., the small island to the S. W. of Leu-cung-tow about E. by S., distant about ⅓ of a mile. In this situation we were exposed to the swell from N. E. by N. to E. N. E., but otherwise surrounded by land. Fresh water may be had at a sandy beach on the main, nearly South from the anchorage.

From Shan-tung Promontory, the coast extends West and W. by S. about 20 to 25 leagues, and then turning round to the S. Westward, forms a great bay; at the South part of which, the Whang-ho, or Yellow River (called also Pei-ho), falls into the sea.

Pei-ho River.

Geo. Site of the anchorage.

The course from the Keu-san Islands to the anchorage off the PEI-HO* is N. 70° W. distance 140 miles, and is so perfectly flat, that our soundings only varied from 12 to 14 fathoms all that distance. The Discovery's situation, when at anchor in 4¼ fathoms at low water, was found to be in lat. 38° 58¾′ N., lon. 118° 0′ E.† or 4° 45′ W. of the N. E. point of Shan-tung, the entrance of the river being about 9 miles West of us. No other object was visible from the ship than a temple, which stands on elevated ground about 3 or 4 miles within the river, and a little low land, seen from the mast-head to the N.W. About 3 miles to the westward of our anchorage, the depth was only 2 fathoms; and the whole space from thence

* North River, Pei signifying North, and Ho a River.

† The anchorage of H. M. S. Lion and Hindoostan, with the former embassy, was in lat. 38° 51′ N., lon. 118° 2′ E. by lunar observations.

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to the shore, appeared to be very shoal, only admitting of a passage for boats, excepting at high water, small sized junks were seen entering, apparently not without difficulty. The ground about the anchorage is soft whitish mud, and holds very well. During 14 days we were at anchor, the weather was fine, and the wind variable; excepting two small gales of short duration, which we experienced from the N, E. The rise of the tide was 7 feet, the flood came from the S. S. E. and the ebb from the N.W., but the direction of the former seemed to be influenced by the winds; its velocity on the springs was about one knot per hour, high water at full moon, about 9 or 10 hours. Variation of the needle observed 2° 30′ Westerly.

On the South side of the entrance into Pei-ho river, there is a military station, and a platform or tower for its defence. Here, the width of the river does not exceed ½ a mile, decreasing to less than a ¼ mile abreast of Ta-cow, about 4 miles up, where the embassy embarked on board the Chinese yachts.

Shoal of the fathers.

Ships bound to the anchorage off the Pei-ho, should not exceed lat. 58° 55′ N. until the soundings decrease to 7 or 8 fathoms, as a small shoal of 2 fathoms is situated nearly E. from the anchorage, on which the depth decreased rapidly from 7 to 2¼ fathoms, where the Discovery tacked: this shoal spot is in lat. 38° 59′ N. by account, and 16 miles eastward of the anchorage, supposed to be one of the shoals, extending off the western part of the Shaloo-poo-tien Islands, although we could not observe any land from our mast-head, when at anchor close to the shoal.

SHA-LOO-POO-TIEN (or Sa-la-po-tien) ISLANDS, distant from Ten-choo-foo about 40 leagues W. N.W. ¾ N., are a considerable group, extending in an easterly and westerly direction, with shoals connecting some of them. From abreast of the South side of these islands, the depths decrease gradually to 7 or 6 and 5 fathoms mud, about 5 leagues to the W. S. Westward, which is the anchorage of the mouth of the Pei-ho, or Pekin River.

Lea-tong Gulf.

Great wall of China.

Geo. Site of Watering Bay in Lea-tong Gulf.

Islands near that Bay.

South Point of Lea-tong.

Northern Mia-tau Islands.

From the anchorage off the Pei-ho River, August 11th, in company with H.M.S. Alceste, we directed our course into the GULF OF LEA-TONG, and passed the Sha-loo-poo-tien Islands at night, without being able to make any observation on their situation, further than observing that the depth increases to 18 and 20 fathoms when a short distance to the southward of them, and is very irregular; but after passing them, it becomes again regular at 14 and 15 fathoms. August 13th, at noon, we were in lat. 39° 9′ 50″ N., lon. 119° 22′ 50″ E., in 12 fathoms water, the western part of the high land, on the coast of China, then bearing N. 18½° W., distant about 11 or 12 leagues. On the 14th, when in lat. 59° 40¼′ N., lon. 120° 13′ 55″ E., in 15 fathoms water, the TOWERS on the GREAT WALL OF CHINA, near the water side, were seen bearing N. 27¾° W., distant about 8 or 9 leagues. We then steered to the eastward, in very regular soundings of 15 and 16 fathoms on a mud bottom, until August 16th, then anchored on the eastern side of the Gulf of Lea-tong, to the southward of a projecting point of land, which appeared to be part of an island. About a mile to the eastward of the point, observed on shore with an artificial horizon twice, and made the lat. 39° 31′ 55″ N., and 3° 19½′ E. of our anchorage off the Pei-ho, or in lon. 121° 19½′ E. The land here is high, and may be seen 7 or 8 leagues distant, and we filled our water from the second stony beach to the eastward of the point, where it was easily obtained: the Alceste filled her water farther to the eastward, where there was a better stream, but not so easily obtained on account of a flat. There is another point of land, situated about 10 miles S. by E. of the former, and between the two it curves to the eastward, forming a bay. When coming to our anchorage, we found the depth continue very regular until we passed the first point about a mile, when it began to decrease fast, so that 2 miles within it, there is but 3 fathoms water. When at anchor in 5 fathoms, the North point of the bay bore N. 38° W., the Southern point bore S. 3¾° W., a remarkable red hummock N. 88° E., a village N. 68° E., distant off the nearest shore to the northward of us about 1 mile. Observations taken

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carefully on shore with a large theodolite, made the variation of the needle 1° 56′ W. Whilst at anchor here, we observed numerous vessels passing to, and from the northward, many of which appeared deeply laden. The inhabitants were civil, but being totally ignorant of the value of dollars, we were unable to procure any refreshments from them. From the summit of a hill, extensive lakes to the eastward were discerned, by which it seems probable, that the whole of this part of the coast is composed of numerous islands; and to the northward of the one under which we anchored, the Gulf of Lea-tong trends very much in to the eastward. August 19th, at day-light, we weighed and steered to the southward, carrying very good soundings from 8 to 10 fathoms, and passed the Southern point of the bay about 2 miles off. At noon, by account, in lat. 39° 3′ N., lon. 121° 5′ E., in 15 fathoms, when two islands of moderate height, one of them bore S. 55½° E., distant 9 miles, the other S. 32° E, distant 8 miles, and another high island, distant 12 miles, bore S. 26° W.; to the S. S. E. of this 6 miles, there was another island of rocky appearance, by account, in lat. 38° 47′ N., lon. 121° 4′ E. We passed to the westward of all these islands, and had good soundings of 15 and 16 fathoms over a mud bottom; the bearings of the three first mentioned, were taken from the northernmost point of the Watering Bay, but the weather being thick and rainy when we passed them, could place their latitude only by account. After passing the South point of the Watering Bay, the land appeared high, and trended off to the eastward, forming a considerable curve, and again projects to the S. W.: we proceeded to the southward of the rocky island, and steered to the eastward for a part of the land which appeared to be near the South point of Lea-tong, and anchored about an hour in 20 fathoms water, off a small bay in which there is a village, and the country round has the appearance of high cultivation. When at anchor, the extremes of land supposed to be the coast, from N. 8° W., distant about 6 miles, to S.9° E., distant about 2 miles, the two Southern islands which we passed, one bearing N. 30° W., the other N. 36½° W. The Northern islands of those which extend to the northward of the Mia-taus bore S. 22½° W., distant about 7 or 8 leagues, by account, in lat. 38° 43′ N., lon. 121° 8′ E. This situation is on the Western side of the South point of Lea-tong, distant from it about 3 or 4 miles; and we have to regret, that the rapidity of our movements, prevented the position of the South point of Lea-tong from being fixed with greater precision, as by the missionary's chart it appears not to have been examined by any of them; and probably the Alceste and Discovery were the first European ships that ever visited it. After weighing, we steered along the land at about 2 miles distant, until we ascertained that it was really the Southern extreme of the coast; then directed our course to the S. S.W., until about 10 P. M. when the Alceste anchored in about 30 fathoms water for the night. On the following morning, we passed to the eastward of the Northern islands which extend to the northward of the Mia-taus. The channel between them and Lea-tong Point is 7 or 8 leagues wide, and the Northern group is in about lat. 38° 23′ N., by account, lon. about 120° 58′ E.

Winds in the Yellow Sea.

THE COAST OF SHAN-TUNG, between Oie-hai-oie Harbour and the N. E. point of the former, appeared to form a deep bight, and the land is high: we quitted the harbour at night, and made nearly an East course in regular soundings from 12 to 15 fathoms, until we passed the N. E. point. From the 25th July, the day on which the embassy rounded the N. E. point of Shan-tung, until the 3d of September, when the Discovery quitted it, we never experienced any weather so severe as to distress a ship, and the few fresh breezes we had, were of short duration;* therefore, it seems probable, that ships may remain at anchor off the Pei-ho a considerable time, as the navigation of the Yellow Sea is easy during the summer months; and particularly from the number of vessels (traders) we met moving in all direc-

* In some seasons, it has nevertheless been experienced, that the Yellow Sea, and the Gulf of Tartary, formed between the Japan Islands and the continent, are liable to thick fogs during the S.W. monsoon; and in the N. E. monsoon, there is much stormy weather, in those seas.

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tions. The inhabitants at the different ports we touched at were civil, and thronged in great numbers on board to see the ships; and certainly appeared to possess more honesty than the Chinese about Macao and Canton. There did not appear to be a scarcity of cattle, although with the exception of a few sent off at the Pei-ho, we could not procure any for the crew. It is therefore advisable, for ships not to depend on getting supplies in the Yellow Sea.*

Geo. Site of the S.W. extreme of Corea.

HIGH PEAKED ISLAND, at the South western extreme of Corea, we made its peak in lat. S4° 5½′ N., lon. 125° 15′ E. by chronometers; and could distinguish a village on the side of the hill.

DIRECTIONS for SAILING between CANTON RIVER and MANILLA BAY, in either MONSOON; and to PULO AOR, and the STRAIT of BANCA, in the N. E. MONSOON.

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS, for sailing to and from China, have been given in the 2d Section, under the title CHINA SEA; in addition to which, some brief directions may be useful, to such navigators as are unacquainted with this navigation.

To sail from Macao to Manilla, in the S.W. monsoon;

The Portuguese and Spanish ships, which trade between Macao and Manilla, sail backward and forward in either monsoon. Departing from Macao Road in the S.W. monsoon, if bound to Manilla, take an opportunity when practicable, to sail when the wind veers to S. E. or eastward, with which, steer S. S. W. and southward, and endeavour to get soundings on the Macclesfield Bank. The passage may then be considered secure, for unless the wind bang at South or S. S. E., you will be able to reach Manilla Bay without tacking, and if it be at southward, steer to fall in with Goat Island, or the land on the South side of that bay.

in the N. E. monsoon;

In the N. E. monsoon, when bound to Manilla, work out by the Lema Channel, and endeavour to keep well to the eastward, in crossing over for the N.W. part of Luconia about Cape Bolina, for a leeward current may be expected when the N. Easterly winds prevail. Having approached Cape Bolina or the coast near it, a good birth should be given to that cape, on account of its contiguous shoals; and after passing it and the Sisters, the coast ought to be approached within 4 to 6 leagues, and the same distance preserved from it, will be proper until to the southward of the islets and rocks off Point Capones; from thence, the coast should be kept a-board to Manilla Bay.

and to return to Macao in the S.W. monsoon;

The S.W. monsoon is favorable for sailing from Manilla to Macao, you may then steer direct for the Grand Ladrone; and if the wind is steady at S. Westward, when the coast of China is approached, endeavour to make the Grand Ladrone bearing about N. by E. or North; but if it incline to veer to North, or eastward, steer for the East end of the Great Lema, and proceed in by that channel.

and in the N.E. monsoon.

Departing from Manilla Bay, and bound to Macao in the N. E. monsoon, coast along to Cape Bolina; from thence, you may stretch off, if the wind admit a northerly course to

* Millet appeared to be the principal grain cultivated along the North coast of Shan-tung, and furnished the diet of those who came under our observation: the hills also shewed the same barren appearance near the sea, as may be observed along the whole South coast of China; and there was a most marked difference in the dress and apparent comforts between the people of the Yellow Sea and those inhabiting the province of Canton, the latter having much the advantage of the former. We saw but one war boat during the time we were in the Yellow Sea, by which we may infer, that about Canton and its vicinity, the greatest part of his Imperial Majesty's naval force is stationed; which, with their forts, are but poorly calculated to resist European forces. Many of the latter are quite destitute of cannon, and in such as have, the guns are so bad as to endanger those who fire them.

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steered; but with the wind between N. E. and North, particularly in ships which sail indifferently, it will be proper to work along the coast, or to keep near it, till abreast of Cape Bajadore, before they stand off for the coast of China.

Directions for sailing from Macao to Pulo Aor, by the Outer Passage;

OUTER PASSAGE, from Macao toward Pulo Aor, by the Macclesfield Bank, should only be adopted in March and April: at the commencement of, and during the strength of the N. E. monsoon, the inner passage along the coast of Cochin-china is preferable.

Departing from Macao Road, if the outer passage is to be followed, keep within a moderate distance of the West sides of Potoe and the adjoining islands; when the wind blows strong, and hangs far to the eastward, there is generally a heavy sea upon the beam, with a leeward current, rendering it necessary to steer about S. S. E. from the Grand Ladrone, to get soundings on the Macclesfield Bank. With the wind at N. E. and moderate weather, a course S. by E. ½ E. will generally carry you over the eastern part of that bank; but if lon. 1° East of the Grand Ladrone is exceeded, the getting of soundings will be uncertain, for in such case, you will probably pass to the eastward of the bank.

If the outer passage be pursued in November, or December, when strong gales and cloudy weather are sometimes of several days continuance, preventing observations from being obtained, soundings should be got if possible upon the Macclesfield Bank; but if your situation is known correctly by chronometers, it can be of little utility to sound; for the bank being about 1° in extent from East to West, with various irregular depths on it, your exact position, cannot be always ascertained by the soundings. From the Macclesfield Bank, the course is S.W. to Pulo Sapata, but from having soundings on that bank, or being in its latitude, the best course to steer is S.W. ½ S. until in the parallel of Pulo Sapata; and if then it is not seen, steer S.W. by W. or W. S.W. till in 35 or 30 fathoms water. In dark blowing weather, when the true situation of a ship is not ascertained by chronometer, or otherwise, it would be dangerous to steer direct for Pulo Sapata, or to make it in the night: at such times, it is seldom seen in passing, for ships generally give it a wide birth, by keeping well to the eastward until they have crossed the parallel of lat. 10° N., and then they steer S.W. by W. or W. S.W. to get into soundings. Some ships steer S.W. by S. from the Macclesfield Bank, till nearly in the latitude of Pulo Sapata, and pass this island a great way to the eastward, which is proper in March, April, or May; but in steering that course, a good look out will be proper, in case of S. Easterly currents carrying you in sight of some of the shoals, which lie to the E. N. E. and eastward of Pulo Sapata.

Having got into lat. 10° N., steer between S.W. by W. and W. S.W. until in 35 fathoms water, then about S. S.W. ½ W., or S. S.W. ¾ W., for Pulo Aor, or Pulo Timoan, if bound to Singapore Strait; observing not to deepen above 30 or 32 fathoms in crossing lat. 7° 6′ N., in order to avoid the coral bank discovered by the Charlotte, which has been mentioned under the description of Pulo Condore. But in March, or April, ships bound to Europe should keep well to the eastward, and proceed between the Natunas and Anambas, and afterward through the Straits of Gaspar.

and by the Inner Passage.

INNER PASSAGE,* from Macao to Pulo Aor, should always be pursued early in the

* This passage was frequented by the Company's ships in early times, and constantly, by the homeward-bound ships, upward of a century ago: the Carolina, from England bound to China by Sunda and Banca Straits, went by the Inner Passage in May, 1683, and passed in sight of Hainan.

The Fort St. David, from China, in December, 1752, proceeded by it, and saw the island Tinhosa, afterward made the coast of Cochin-china in lat. 13° N., and passed between Holland's Bank and Pulo Ceicer de Terre.

The Inner Passage, however preferable to the other, had been relinquished for a long period by English navigators, until several ships having suffered damage, and some had foundered with their crews, by hauling up for the Macclesfield Bank, after leaving the Grand Ladrone; the Inner Passage was again resorted to, by a few experienced commanders about 36 years ago, and since the limits of the Paracels have been ascertained, it is now generally adopted by homeward-bound ships.

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season, and during the strength of the N. E. monsoon; it is more direct than the other, and when blowing strong, great ease is afforded to ships deeply laden, by steering from the Grand Ladrone directly before the wind.

To proceed by this passage, a S. S.W. ½ W. course steered direct from Potoe, or from the Grand Ladrone, will carry you fair between the Taya Islands and St. Esprit Bank; and the same course continued, will carry you in the proper channel to the westward of the Paracel Shoals. The North shoal bears S. 24° W. from the Grand Ladrone, distant 108 leagues, and if sights are obtained for chronometers, the course may be regulated accordingly; a S. S.W. ½ W. course will place you about 2° 50′, or 3° West of the Grand Ladrone when in lat. 17° N., which is well to the westward of the North shoal, it being 2° 16′ West of that island.

If dark weather deprive you of observations, the ship will generally be to the westward of the account; for the current which sets strong to the westward close along the coast of China, continues outside, with an abated velocity, seldom exceeding, 15 or 20 miles in 24 hours. Betwixt the northern extremity of the Paracels and the island Hainan, the current sets mostly about W. S.W., particularly if the wind be at E. N. Eastward; and its velocity is regulated by the prevailing wind: with moderate breezes, about 15 miles of westerly set, may be expected daily in the track from the Grand Ladrone toward the coast of Cochin-china, but if strong gales are experienced, the current will probably run about 1 mile per hour to the westward, or rather more, at times.

along the coast of Cochin-China.

If the current is found to set strong to the westward, a course between S.S.W. and S.S.W. ½ W. may be pursued, but not more southerly until in lat. 17° N., and fairly entered the channel to the westward of the shoals. When in this latitude, and 3° West of the Grand Ladrone by chronometers, or by account, a course about S. ½ W. or S. by W. may be steered, to make the coast about Cape Varela. With clear weather, and the wind steady at N. E. or N. N. E., Pulo Canton may be approached, or any part of the land to the southward that island may be made, and coasted along at a moderate distance; but with thick weather, and the wind inclining from the eastward, it is prudent not to haul close in for the coast until abreast of Cape Varela, in case of getting into the deep bay of Phuyen to the northward of that cape. If the conical mountain at the North part of this bay is discerned, it may be useful as a mark to point out the distance from Cape Varela, if night is approaching, or the funnel on the Cape Mountain be obscured by clouds.

When to the southward of lat. 15° N., the current near the land, begins to set strong to the southward; from lat. 14½° to 11½° N., it frequently sets to the southward along the coast during the strength of the N. E. monsoon, at the rate of 40, or 50, and sometimes 60 miles in 24 hours; but it is not always so strong, and becomes weaker beyond these limits.

If the land has not been seen prior to reaching Cape Varela, it should then be approached, and kept within the distance of 4 or 5 leagues: from abreast of the Cape at the distance of 3 to 5 miles, a course steered South or S. ¼ E., leads fair from point to point for 6 or 8 leagues; but in the night, steer South from the cape until about 9 leagues from it, to give a birth to Pyramid Island, and the others around. This island will be seen in passing a few miles outside of it in the night, if the weather is clear, and may be known by its conical appearance; from hence the course is S. ½ W. to pass near the Water Islands, situated about 7 leagues farther to the southward, which may also be perceived in passing. Being thus far advanced, if the land appear to be distant more than 4 leagues, steer S. by W. or rather more westerly, to get a good sight of the high oblong mountain over Cape Varela False; which in coming from the northward, may be distinguished in the night from the other prominent parts of land, by its great magnitude, high appearance, and sloping down toward the sea with a gentle declivity.

If you intend to keep along the coast and pass to the westward of Holland's Bank, from abreast of the southern part of the high land of Cape Varela False, a S. S.W. or S. S.W. ½

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W. course must be steered across the Bay of Padaran; for here, the current diverges from the line of the coast to S. S. Eastward, and is liable to carry a ship off the land; which, in such case, she would find it difficult to regain. Soundings of 40 to 50 fathoms will be got when crossing the Bay of Padaran, if not too far out: steering across the bay about S. S.W. to S. S.W. ½ W. in the night, Cape Padaran will soon be perceived nearly a-head, or a little on the starboard bow, and cannot be mistaken; for the land in the bottom of the bay, is not discernible in the night.

When the cape is seen, steer toward it, which pass at 1 to 2 leagues distance: from this situation, a S.W. by W. course will carry you about the same distance outside of Pulo Ceicer de Terre; but if Cape Padaran is only about 1 or 2 miles distant when abreast, a S.W. course will be required to pass at a few miles distance outside of Pulo Ceicer de Terre. Having passed this island in day-light, from 1 to 2½ leagues distance, steer about S.W. by W., and bring it to bear N. by E. ½ E. before loosing sight of it from the deck; steer then S.W. by S. about 6 or 7 leagues, which will carry you clear to the westward of the Holland's Bank, and afterward steer S. S.W. ½ W. direct for Pulo Aor.

In the night, if the weather is clear, you may pass through the channel with safety, when the Gap of Padaran can be discerned. In such case, from being 3, 4, or 5 miles off Cape Padaran, steer between S.W. and S.W. by W. until the gap is open: when it bears N. by E., Pulo Ceicer de Terre is coming on with it, and if the water shoals to 10 or 11 fathoms, edge out a little to the southward; for the island is low, and should net be approached so close as to see it in the night, particularly as the soundings are irregular in this part of the channel, and not a sufficient guide. When the Gap of Padaran is brought to bear N. by E. ½ E., Pulo Ceicer de Terre is on with it, steer then between S.W. and S.W. by S. 6 or 7 leagues, to clear the West end of Holland's Bank, and afterward S. S. W. ½ W. for Pulo Aor.

Should the night become very dark, when abreast of, and near Padaran Cape, so as to obscure the land and the gap; a course steered between S. W. ½ W. and S. W. ¼ S. will be proper till about 12 or 13 leagues distance from the cape; observing, to haul off from Pulo Ceicer de Terre or the coast, if the water shoal to 11 fathoms; and not to deepen above 21 or 20 fathoms toward Holland's Bank. From the West end of this bank, the nearest part of Britto's Bank is distant about 16 or 17 leagues in a W. S.W. direction, by which, a wide channel is afforded for passing between them in the night. Keeping in 16 to 18 fathoms, is a good track from Pulo Ceicer de Terre until about 5 or 6 leagues past it; or being 12 or 13 leagues to the S. Westward of Cape Padaran, a S.W. by S. course may then be steered for 2 or 3 leagues farther, to be certain of giving the West end of Holland's Bank a good birth. Do not deepen above 21 fathoms until clear of it, nor decrease the depth under 17 fathoms toward Britto's Bank, if you run far to the westward: from 21 to 19 fathoms are good depths in the channel between these banks, and having rounded the West end of the former in 20 arid 21 fathoms, the direct course is S. S.W. ½ W. for Pulo Aor.

The passage between Pulo Ceicer de Terre and Holland's Bank, can only be followed in day-light by persons unacquainted, which has obliged many ships to heave to, off Cape Varela False in the night, in order to pass through the channel with day-light; by which they laboured greatly, when blowing strong with a heavy sea, exclusive of loss of time. The route outside of Pulo Ceicer de Mer and Pulo Sapata, is therefore, now justly preferred to the inside passage in the night, and even in the day-time, by the generality of navigators.

Directions for passing outside of Pulo sapata.

If in the early part of the night, you be near the high land of Cape Varela False, with dark blowing weather, rendering it unpleasant to heave to, or to run for the channel between Holland's Bank and Pulo Ceicer de Terre, steer about South, or S. ½ E., to pass to the eastward of Pulo Ceicer de Mer and Pulo Sapata on the following morning; or if the weather is dark, steer more to S. S. Eastward, to give a wide birth to these islands in passing; for when blowing strong, the current runs with great velocity to the W. S.W. or S.W., whereby several ships have been horsed down upon Pulo Sapata, contrary to their calculations, and were ob-

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liged to run through the narrow channel between it and the Little Catwick in dark nights, which has been already mentioned, under the description of the Little Catwick, in a former section. In clear weather, during the day, you may pass near the East side of Pulo Ceicer de Mer, at discretion, and then steer S. Westward between it and the Great Catwick, as circumstances require; or occasionally, between the Great and Little Catwicks, if care be taken to give a birth to La Paix Rock, situated nearly in mid-channel betwixt these islands. From hence, steer direct for Pulo Aor.

When near the latitude of Pulo Timoan in thick weather, keep in 32 or 33 fathoms water, which will carry you to the eastward of that island, and directly toward Pulo Aor, which has been already mentioned in the description of these islands: as they are sometimes enveloped in clouds of vapour, or dark haze, care must be taken not to run upon them in the night. Near the Anambas, and to the northward of them, the depths are generally between 40 and 50 fathoms to lat. 5° or 5½° N., decreasing on the West side of the channel, to 35 and 30 fathoms near the meridian of Pulo Timoan.

To proceed from Pule Aor,

Having passed on the East side of Pulo Aor, at 2, 3, or 4 leagues distance; if bound to Banca Strait, steer S. S. E. E. ½ or S. S. E., according as the prevailing winds and current require, to pass outside of Geldria's Shoal, which will be avoided by not coming under 23 or 24 fathoms in crossing from lat. 0° 40′ to 0° 56′ N.; and after clearing it, steer about S. S.W. to cross the equator in 20 fathoms: the same course continued, will carry you about 4 or 5 leagues off the East point of Lingin, if there is no oblique current; but, be cautious that a westerly current (which sometimes prevails) do not set you upon the Ilchester Shoal, situated to the southward of that point.

To the trance of Banca Strait.

From abreast of the East point of Lingin at 5 leagues distance, the course is about S. S.W. ½ W. to pass between Pulo Taya and the Seven Islands; but if the East point of the former is passed at a great distance, a S. Westerly course may be requisite to effect that purpose. Having passed through between Pulo Taya and the Seven Islands, the course is S. by W. toward Batacarang Point, forming the West side of the entrance of Banca Strait; and this point ought to be approached to 6½ or 7 fathoms, to avoid the Frederic Hendric Rocks. Banes Conform then, to the directions already given, for Sailing from the northward, through the Straits of Banca and Sunda.

DIRECTIONS for SAILING to CANTON RIVER, also to, and from MANILLA, by the OUTER PASSAGE.

SHOALS IN THE S. EASTERN PART OF THE CHINA SEA, AND NEAR THE PALAWAN PASSAGE, AND THE ISLAND PALAWAN.

Directions for sailing from Pulo Aor to Caution River, by the Outer Passage.

WHEN THE S.W. MONSOON is set fairly in, ships bound to Canton River ought to proceed by the Outer Passage. After having passed near Pulo Aor, on the East side, an N N. N. E. ½ E. course would carry a ship direct toward Pulo Sapata, were it not for an easterly current setting frequently out of the Gulf of Siam, which generally leads ships several leagues to the eastward of Pulo Sapata, when that course has been pursued from Pulo Aor. To avoid passing near the Charlotte's Bank in lat. 7° 6′ N., it may be proper in a large ship, to steer from Pulo Aor N. N. E. until in that latitude, and from thence N. E. by N. to see Pulo Sapata; but if sights are not obtained for chronometers, the approach to this island will be known by the soundings, already described under the articles Pulo Condore and Great Catwick.

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Having passed to the eastward of Pulo Sapata, at 4, to 6 or 7 leagues distance, the course is N. E. ½ N. to get soundings on the middle of the Macclesfield Bank; and in this track also, a set to the eastward is often experienced in the S.W. monsoon. From having soundings on the eastern part of that bank, the course is N. by W. to the Grand Ladrone, which a ship ought to endeavour to make bearing about North or N. by E. if the wind be steady, and blowing strong at S.W. or Southward. It is improper in any season, to fall in with the land to the westward about St. John's.

Ships which pass Pulo Sapata after the middle of September, should keep well to the eastward after they are in lat. 12° or 13° N., being then to the northward of the shoals; for as they advance to the northward, N. E. or E. N. E. winds may be expected. With these winds they ought to make long stretches to the northward; and short tacks must be made to the eastward at times, when the shifts of wind are favorable, to keep up the easting. In October, a ship ought to endeavour to get near the coast of Luconia, and until she have passed to the northward of Cape Bolina, she should not stretch off for the China coast; and great caution is required, when crossing the latitude of the Pratas Shoal.

To sail toward Manilla,

IF BOUND TO MANILLA, steer from Pulo Sapata N. E., but not more easterly until in lat. 12° or 12½° N., on account of the numerous shoals to the eastward of that island; because they extend to about lat. 11° 40, or 11° 45′ N., the northernmost bearing about E. N. E. or E. N. E. ¼ N. from Pulo Sapata. Having got into lat. 12° 30′ N., a direct course may be steered, to make Goat Island and Luban, situated about 12 or 13 leagues to the S. Westward of the entrance of Manilla Bay; and after passing Goat Island to the northward at 3 or 4 leagues distance, steer direct for the island Mariveles, or Corregidor, which bears from Goat Island N. E. ½ E., distant about 15 leagues. It lies in the entrance of Manilla Bay, rather nearest the North shore, is pretty high, of considerable size, having at the West part fresh water under a steep cliff; but the landing is inconvenient, upon a stony beach. On both sides of the entrance of the bay, the land is high, and on the North side, nearly fronting Corregidor, lies Mariveles Bay, about 1 mile wide, and 1½ mile deep, with good anchorage, sheltered from all but S. E. and S. S. E. winds: ships of any size may moor here, and procure excellent water. Rocky islets project 1 mile off the S.W. point of the entrance, which are called the Peurcos, or Hogs: ships may anchor in 17 fathoms with the village bearing N.W. by W., or they may run farther into the bay if necessary; the bottom being good holding ground, and the anchorage safe. This is a convenient place for ships to touch at, when in want of wood and water, the former being an expensive article at Manilla.

FORTUNE ISLAND, bearing S. by W. ½ W., about 5 leagues from Corregidor, is small, high, and rocky; leave it about 3 leagues on the starboard side, and soundings of 50 to 40 fathoms will be got when within 2½ or 2 leagues of the latter, decreasing gradually to 27 or 26 fathoms about 2 miles to the westward of it. Pulo Cavallo, a high bluff rock, of considerable size, partially covered with verdure, bears from Corregidor S. E. by S. about ½ a mile: and the rock or islet Fraile, which appears like a sail, is about 2 or 3 miles S. S. Eastward from Pulo Cavallo, toward the South shore. Pulo Cavallo is steep to, with soundings of 20 to 17 fathoms between it and the shore; but a reef and straggling rocks extend between it and the island Corregidor. The Nun, or Haycock, another pretty high rock, bears from Corregidor W. ¾ S. about 2½ miles, with 27 fathoms water within ¼ mile of it all round. The soundings from it decrease regularly to 20 fathoms within ¼ mile of the North shore: and deepen to 29 or 30 fathoms near the N.W. part of Corregidor, close to which, there is a perforated rock.

Betwixt Corregidor and the North shore, the depths are 50 and 48 fathoms within ¼ mile of the island, 26 fathoms in mid-channel, decreasing quickly to 16 or 15 fathoms stony ground, within mile of the North shore.

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and into the bay.

When about 2 leagues to the westward of Corregidor, steer for it; with a fair wind, the common passage is between it and the Haycock, afterward on the North side of Corregidor. From hence to Manilla, the course is E. N. E. ¼ N., distance 11 leagues, and to Cavité E. by N. ½ N. 8 or 9 leagues. St. Nicholas Shoal, situated on the eastern side of the passage, is much in the way, having only 11 feet water on its outer edge, with the N.W. part of Corregidor bearing W. 13° S., and Cavité Church E. 17° N.; within a ship's length of it to the N.W. there are 13 and 15 fathoms water, the soundings being no guide in approaching it, because the bank is so steep. The mark to avoid this shoal, is to keep the Haycock open with the North or N.W. part of Corregidor bearing W. S.W. until the steeple of Cavité Church bear East, and a remarkable hummock W. N.W. ½ N., which stands close to the sea, upon a point of land on the North shore: being then clear of St. Nicholas Shoal, steer for Cavité or Manilla, at discretion.

In the fair channel between the shoal and North shore, the depths are 17 and 18 fathoms, decreasing gradually toward that shore to 5 and 4 fathoms; and in steering eastward, the depths also decrease regularly to 5 fathoms off Cavité, where ships anchor about a large mile off shore in that depth, the bottom all stiff mud.

When the wind is blowing at eastward, out of the bay, the current runs out through the North Channel to the westward; it is therefore, proper, at such times to adopt the channel between Corregidor and the South shore, it having more room to work to windward, and no hidden danger. To enter the bay by this channel, caution is requisite when you come abreast of the easternmost high land on the South shore, which bears S. E. ½ E. from Corregidor; for the tail of St. Nicholas Shoal trends away gradually toward this high land, and the water may shoal suddenly in approaching it, from 12 to 7, or 6 fathoms rocky ground. Therefore, come not under 12 or 13 fathoms, nor under 15 or 16 fathoms when farther to the eastward, and keep the Haycock then open with the North part of the Corregidor; from 15 fathoms water, the next cast may be 7, and then 4 fathoms on the verge of St. Nicholas Shoal, when the Haycock is shut in with the Corregidor.

Within ¾ or ½ a mile of the East part of Corregidor, there are 22 and 23 fathoms, and when it can be rounded, stand over for, and work along the North shore, which has 15 or 16 fathoms within a ¼ mile, and 10 or 12 fathoms about a cable's length off: although in some places, the water shoals suddenly from 15, to 10, 7, and 5 fathoms, there is no invisible danger; and when past the Corregidor, the North shore has good anchorage over a sandy bottom. Farther to the North and eastward, this shore becomes more flat, the soundings decreasing regularly from 10 to 8, 6, 5, 4, and 3 fathoms close in shore.

Tides.

The tides in Manilla Bay are irregular; with an easterly wind, the ebb runs out 18 hours together, betwixt Corregidor and the North shore, pretty strong; the flood, about 6 hours to the eastward, sometimes weak, at other times with considerable strength: the perpendicular rise is about 3 feet.

The N. E. monsoon blows strong out of Manilla Bay at times, accompanied by a cloud resembling smoke, which is driven out of the bay to the S.W., and forming an arch in that horizon, when the sky is otherwise clear; but sometimes sea breezes from the S.Westward blow into the bay in the N. E. monsoon, after mid-day, increasing in strength as you advance into the bay.

Cavité.

CAVITE, in lat. 14° 29′ N., is the port and marine arsenal of Manilla, where the ships are built, and those hove down that want repairs, having excellent conveniences for that purpose. It is well fortified, situated on a low point of land, which forms a good harbour or cove; the deepest water in it, is 6 or 7 fathoms soft mud, with good shelter from West and S.W. winds. As the water in the wells here is brackish, the inhabitants are supplied with fresh water from the river, by Old Cavité.

The course from Cavité to Manilla is N. N. E. ¼ E. about 3 leagues, and from the former,

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the depths increase regularly to 8 or 9 fathoms about mid-way, then gradually decrease to 4½ or 4 fathoms off Manilla. With a turning wind between them, a ship may approach the shore to 5 or 4½ fathoms, the bank fronting it being very flat, composed of soft mud.

Anchorage at Manilla.

A good birth to anchor in Manilla Road, is in 5 fathoms water, about a mile off, with the North Bastion N. 37½° E., the S.W. Bastion E. 20° N., the Cupola E. 37° N., and the fishing stakes at the river's mouth N. 18° E. Large ships generally anchor at Cavité Harbour.

Geo. Site.

MANILLA CITY, capital of Luzon, one of the largest of the Philippine Islands, and the seat of the Spanish government in the East, is situated in lat. 14° 36′ N., lon. 121° 2½′ E. by an observation of Jupiter's satellite, corroborated by chronometers.* It is large, and convenient for trade, the country adjacent producing excellent indigo, sugar, tobacco, hemp for cordage, &c.; but the inhabitants around are indolent, and will not cultivate the ground to rear these articles, unless an agreement is previously made with them, and money paid in advance. Some trade is carried on with China, Batavia, and with several of the Philippine Islands; but the chief dependance of this place, was formerly on the trade to Acapulco, carried on in two or three ships, which usually sailed in March or April from that place, and arrived at Manilla in August or September, although not always regular.†

During the months of June, July, and August, the air of Manilla is rendered impure, by noxious exhalations arising from the swampy land around; and the weather being sultry, with much rain at times, febrile complaints are then liable to appear.

Firewood is scarce here, and at Cavité, it being brought from the interior. Ships moored in the road, may water expeditiously, by sending their boats into the river as far as the bridge, where the water is very good.

To return from Manilla to Pulo Aor.

DEPARTING from MANILLA, if bound to the straits of Banca or Malacca, the N.E. monsoon is the proper season; and in sailing out of the bay, conform to the directions given for entering it, and to the marks for avoiding St. Nicholas Shoal. Having cleared the bay, steer W. by S. until in lat. 12° N. and 9° W. from Goat Island by chronometer: if the longitude is not ascertained by chronometer or by lunar observations, do not come to the southward of lat. 12° N. until 9° of West meridian distance has been made from Goat Island. From this situation, steer S.W. for Pulo Sapata, observing that a westerly current in this season, is liable to carry a ship a-head of the reckoning: if on the contrary, Pulo Sapata is not seen when in its latitude, steer S.W. by W. or W. S.W. to get into soundings, then S. S.W. ½ W. for Pulo Aor; agreeably to the preceding directions given in the last Section, for sailing by the Outer Passage from Macao to Pulo Aor.

Shoals in the S. E. part of the China Sea.

THE ARCHIPELAGO, of sand banks, rocks or reefs, above and under water, situated between the coast of Palawan and Pulo Sapata, is so extensive, and the dangers that form it so numerous, that there can be little utility in entering into a minute description of them, for they ought to be avoided by all navigators. No ship can enter within the limits of this dangerous Archipelago, without getting embarrassed with, or seeing several of the shoals; and

* This is the longitude of Manila, as determined by Capt. Ross, in the Company's surveying ship Discovery, and he made it in 12° 1′ E. of Pulo Sapata by chronometers. The French circumnavigator, La Perouse, made the longitude of Manilla, about 3 miles farther East than Capt. Ross; but Mon. Gentil made it in lon. 120 51½′ E., which was long thought to be its true longitude. Don J. Vernacci, made it in lon. 120° 55′ East of Greenwich, so that its true longitude seems not yet determined.

† These Galloons did not sail together, nor exactly at stated periods from Manila, but generally in July or August; they sometimes went round the North end of Luconia, at other times through the Straits of Manilla, or St. Bernardino, and arrived at Acapulco about Christmas, or generally between the early part of November and middle of January. They sometimes arrived at Manila in July, and generally made the island Samar about Cape Spirito Santo, then came in by the Strait of St. Bernardino.

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there are strong currents, or irregular tides among them, rendering a ship's place very uncertain when observations cannot be obtained; and the rise and fall of the tide is considerable amongst the shoals, during the springs. Although some ships have passed through amongst them with difficulty and risk, others have struck upon, or lost their anchors among the extensive coral flats; and the Fanny, the Betsey, and other ships, were wrecked nearly in the middle of the Archipelago. It seems, therefore, only necessary to describe briefly, the exterior limits of those dangers.

From the West coast of Palawan, the shoals extend N.W. and Westward, to within about 3° of the meridian of Pulo Sapata, as the West London Shoal, appears to be the westernmost danger.

Between several of them, there are channels from 6 or 8, to 15 leagues wide; and between the outer shoals off Palawan, and those which lie within 5 or 6 leagues of that island, there is a channel about 8 or 9 leagues wide. In these channels, and close to the outer reefs, there are no soundings.

Geo. Site of their Eastern limit,

EASTERNMOST known danger is a reef of breakers in lat. 10° 49′ N., lon. 117° 10′ E., distant about 30 leagues from the coast of Palawan, seen in 1803, by the brig Pennsylvania. About 15 leagues farther eastward, in lat. 10° 57′ N., about lon. 117° 53′ E., there is a bank of coral and white sand, extending about a mile East and West, and ¼ mile broad, with soundings on it from 8 to 11 fathoms, discovered by the Sea Horse in 1776.

Northern limit,

NORTHERNMOST DANGERS,* are two sand banks or low sandy isles, with a tree on the northernmost of them, situated in lat. 11° 29′ N., lon. 114° 20′ E., the other to the S.W. of it, about 2½ or 3 leagues distance: they were seen by the South Sea Castle in 1762, and although she made them only 4° East meridian distance from Pulo Sapata, they are probably upward of 5° from that island, as may be inferred from the examination of this part by Capt. Ross. About mid-way, nearly in a direct line between these and the easternmost danger mentioned above, lies a low isle in lat. 11° 1′ N. surrounded with breakers, and having a reef projecting to the N. Eastward, which has been seen by several ships.

N.Western limit,

N. WESTERNMOST DANGERS, are two isles, with reefs at each extremity, in lat. 11° 27′ N., lon. 114° 22′ E., the whole extending nearly N. E. and S.W. about 7 or 8 miles.

An island, in lat. 11° 8′ N., lon. 114° 18′ E., about 6 leagues to the southward of the above, having a sand bank 5 miles to the West, and a reef projecting 5 miles to the eastward.

Another island in lat. 10° 44′ N., lon. 114° 26′ E. with a sand bank 5 miles to the N.W. and several detached shoals extending about 3½ leagues to the East and E. N. E. of the island.

A reef in lat. 10° 15′ N., lon. 113° 40′ E.; and about 5 leagues S. Eastward of it, Discovery's Reef, some of the rocks above water, extending from lat. 10° 0′ to 10° 8′ N., lon. 113° 50′ E., from which Capt. Ross had a narrow escape in the Discovery; and a third reef, lies about 4 leagues East from the latter.

Western or S.Western limit.

WEST LONDON REEF, in lat. 8° 55′ N., lon. 112° 0′ E., with other smaller reefs stretching 3 leagues E. N. Eastward, are the Westernmost dangers.

* The South Sea Castle made them in lat. 11° 40′ N., but these Northernmost dangers, from the examination of them in 1814, by Capt. Ross, extend from lat. 11° 28′ 36″ N., lon. 114° 24′ E. to lat. 11° 21½′ N., lon. 114° 16½′ E. The Hainan fishermen, visit the islands and shoals in this part of the China Sea, in March and April, to fish, as well as those of the Paracels.

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EAST LONDON REEF, in lat. 8° 48′ N., lon. 112° 24′ E., extends above 2 leagues in an easterly direction. These two reefs were seen by the London in 1786, and afterward by several ships; and the West London Reef, is thought to be the nearest danger to Pulo Sapata, as Capts. Ross and Maughan, in their examination of the above-mentioned dangers, could not discover any others farther to the westward, although many traverses were made for this purpose, between these shoals and Pulo Sapata.

Geo. Site of Crawford's Shoals.

CRAWFORD'S SHOALS, are about 6 miles in length, formed into three patches, with a high surf beating on their S.W. part, seen by Capt. Crawford in the Investigator, and they consist of coral reefs, nearly even with the water's edge. They were found to extend from lat. 9° 40′ N., lon. 113° 4′ E., to lat. 9° 42′ N., lon. 113′ 8¼′ E., by good chronometers measured to the Great Natuna, and to Singapore.

Geo. Site of Stags Shoal.

STAGS SHOAL, the North end, in lat. 8° 24′ N., lon. 112° 57′ E., was seen by the brig Amboina, Capt. Trinder, September 7th, 1802, and named by him from the resemblance of the rocks to the horns of a stag. No soundings were obtained at 80 fathoms within ¼ mile of the north end of the shoal, which extended S. E. and S. S.W. in form of a triangle, with rocks above water, and breakers on various parts, the intermediate space apparently very shoal, and the southern extremity could not be discerned from the mast-head.

The above shoal is situated nearly mid-way between the easternmost shoal seen by the London, and that seen by the Walpole and other ships, and seems to be another addition to the multitude of shoals which occupy the South-eastern part of the China Sea.

Geo. Site of Amboina Sand.

AMBOINA SAND, seen by the Amboina brig, is a sand bank, and rocks above water, which she made in lat. 7° 51′ N., lon. 113° 6′ E.; but Capt. Ross, in 1817, made this danger in lat. 7° 52′ 20″ N., lon. 112° 56′ E., or 5° 26′ West of Long Point on Palawan by chronometers.

Geo. Site of the Southern limit.

SOUTHERNMOST DANGERS, of this archipelago, are in about lat. 7° 20′ N., extending from lon. 113° to 115° E., and about 16 leagues to the northward. Within these limits, there are several large reefs with high breakers; also extensive shoal coral flats, having only 4 or 5 fathoms, and probably less water, in some parts, with gaps of no ground between them.

Geo. Site of Investigator's Shoal.

INVESTIGATOR'S SHOAL, examined by the Company's surveying ship of this name, in 1813, appears to be one of the N. Easternmost, and most extensive of the lastmentioned dangers; its western point being in lat. 8° 5′ N., lon. 114° 35′ E., and its eastern extremity in lat. 8° 10′ N., lon. 114° 51′ E., and it is about 4 miles in breadth north and south.

Prince of Wales Bank.

Geo. Site.

PRINCE OF WALES BANK, was not known to have less than 10 fathoms water on it, until the fleet under convoy of H. M. S. Grampus, got upon it, October 20th, 1810; and by mean of the observations and chronometers of the fleet, it was found to extend from lat. 8° 3′ N. to 8° 13′ N., lon. 110° 24′ E. to 110° 34′ E. The soundings got in crossing over the bank, were in general from 12 to 30 or 40 fathoms coral, and the Grampus had 9 and 10 fathoms for a considerable time; but the Bombay, got suddenly from 45 fathoms no ground, into 5½ fathoms upon the southern part of the bank, then wore. The coral rocks continued visible along-side, for about ¼ of an hour afterward, with overfalls from 5½ to 12 fathoms, but the water soon deepened to 50 and 60 fathoms no ground, in steering to the N. Westward.

The reflection from the white coral appeared very conspicuous in several places, and as

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the Bombay had only 5½ fathoms water on some of the rocky patches, probably there may be less on others, consequently this bank may prove dangerous to large ships, if they cross over it when the sea is running high; it ought therefore to be avoided by all the Company's ships, which from being late in the season, may have occasion to cross over from the common track toward the Palawan Passage. Capt. Ross, got into 15 fathoms water on the South part of this bank, May 8th, 1811, and made the lat. 8° 5′ N., lon. 110 27′ E. or 1° 25′ East of Palo Sapata by chronometers.

Other Shoals.

Between the S. Westernmost of the shoals mentioned above, and the North part of Borneo, there are several other dangerous reefs, or coral shoals, particularly within 15 leagues of that coast. The following are those nearest to the track of ships bound to the straits of Balabac, or by the Palawan Passage, to Manilla, or to China.

Shoals off Borneo.

WESTERNMOST, of the SHOALS that lie far off the COAST OF BORNEO, is a reef of rocks and sand, in lat. 5° 35′ N., lon. 112° 28′ E., not well determined: it is about ½ a mile long N. N.W. and S. S. E., very narrow, seen by the Sea Horse in 1776, and by the Luconia in 1803. This ship passed between it and another reef with breakers, said to have 1½ fathoms water over the rocks, situated in lat. 5° 24′ N., bearing from the former about S. S. E. distant 4 leagues. To the S. S.W. of these, in lat. 5° 5′ N., there is a shoal with 2 fathoms water; and S. 37° E. from it, in lat. 4° 57′ N., there is a dry sand, both seen by the Luconia. About 12 leagues to the eastward of these and the former shoals, there are other shoals.

Geo. Site of Friendship Shoal.

FRIENDSHIP SHOAL, appears to extend N. E. and S.W. 3 or 3½ leagues; the ship of this name, bound to Balambangan in September 1804, got suddenly on the edge of it in Shoal 4½ fathoms, in lat. 5° 52′ N., and steered along the West side, sometimes within a cable's length, the water appearing very shoal to the S. Eastward, as far as the eye could reach from the mast-head. By noon observation, the North end of the shoal was found to be in lat. 6° 0′ N., lon. 112° 49′ E. by observations of taken near it. The Surat Castle (Royal Charlotte in company) at 6 A. M. October 11th, 1814, got upon this shoal, and anchored in 4½ fathoms coral rock, in lat. 5° 52′ N., lon. 112° 34′ E. by noon observation and chronometers; but observations of stars taken at 4 A. M. made the latitude more to the southward. It appeared a long narrow bank, with soundings from 30 to 40 fathoms near to its verge, and there probably may be less water on it, than where the Surat Castle got suddenly into 4½ fathoms: a little to the S. W. of it, there is no bottom at 60 fathoms.

Louisa Shoal.

LOUISA SHOAL, is in extent about 3 miles E. S. E. and W. N.W., of an elliptical form; the rocks on it are generally covered at high tide, excepting two small ones on its eastern extreme. It is steep to, with very high breakers in blowing weather; but on a fine day, the Ruby sent her boat to it, where they landed on the coral rocks, and had 8 fathoms water within 30 yards of its western edge; the tide was then rising, and setting over the shoal to the E. N. E., about one mile per hour.

Geo. Site.

Many ships have passed close to this shoal, and the mean of a selection of the best observations, places it in lat. 6° 20′ N., lon. 113° 18′ E. by chronometers and lunar sights. Several navigators make it about 2 miles more to the northward, and 6 miles more to the eastward.

Geo. Site of the Royal Charlotte Shoal.

ROYAL CHARLOTTE SHOAL, in lat. 6° 56½′ N., lon. 113° 37½′ E., or 4° 35′ East of the Royal of Pulo Sapata by chronometers, measured by Capt. Ross, who examined it in his survey of the Palawan Shoals, is about 12½ or 13 leagues to the N. Eastward of the Louisa Shoal, and it is not more than l½ mile long, of a quadrangular shape, composed of rocks and breakers: this shoal has been seen by several ships, and although the mean of their observations

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places it about 16 or 17 miles more easterly than the situation above stated by Capt. Ross, yet this officer's observations are probably near the truth, being made with good chronometers, and instruments, supplied purposely for surveying.

Geo. Site of Swallow's Shoal.

SWALLOW'S SHOAL, has some Rocks about the height of a large ship's hull above water, at its eastern point, which appear to be of small extent. They were seen by the Swallow, in 1801, and also by the Lady Clive; both ships agree, in placing them in lat. 7° 23′ N., lon. 113° 44′ E.,* by good observations, although they were not seen by these ships at the same time; and they lie about 8½ or 9 leagues to the northward of the Royal Charlotte Shoal.

Capt. Ross, examined the Swallow's Shoal, in 1817, which he made in lat. 7° 23½′ N., lon. 113° 52′ E., and found it extend E. by N. and W. by S. 2½ or 3 miles, being formed like most of the shoals hereabout, of a belt of coral rocks, with a basin of deeper water within it. The large dry rocks at the eastern end of the shoal, are mixed with some very white sand, and its outer edges are probably dry at low water spring tides.

Several ships pass between the Swallow's Shoal and the Royal Charlotte Shoal, but the best channel is to the southward of the latter, betwixt it and Louisa Shoal, which should be adopted by all ships bound to Balabac Straits, and by those which intend to proceed along the coast of Palawan.

Viper's Shoal.

Geo. Site.

VIPER'S SHOAL, thought to be the S.Westernmost of those which form the outside of the Palawan Passage, and it appears to be the nearest shoal on the outside of the fair channel, after passing to the eastward of the Investigator's Shoal. It is an extensive reef, stretching N. E. by E. and S.W, by W., with high breakers on it, and small rocks in some places, which seem to be nearly covered at high water. The ship, Cape Packet, October 27th, 1810, was swept along the southern verge of this shoal by the current, within a mile of the rocks, when nearly calm; and it was found to lie in lat. 8° 0′ N., lon. 115° 25′ E.,† or 1° 19′ West from the Royal Captain's Shoal by chronometer.

Half Moon Shoal.

Geo. Site.

HALF MOON SHOAL,‡ was examined by Capt. Ross, March 18th, 1817, who found it formed by a narrow belt of coral rocks of oblong shape, containing a basin of deep water in the centre, which belt appeared to have its greatest breadth at the southern part of the shoal, where there was not depth sufficient for the boat to pass over it, into the basin. The Discovery, at this time, passed along the eastern edge of the shoal at the distance of about ½ a mile, and that side of it extends 4 or 5 miles in an N.W. and S. E. direction. Sent a boat to anchor on the South point of the shoal, as a mark, and continued to ply about under top-sails close to her till noon, but could get no soundings with 90 fathoms line, when within hail of the boat. Observations with five sextants, made the South point of the shoal in lat. 8° 54½′ N., lon. 116° 15½′ E., or 2° 6¾′ West from Long Point on Palawan, and 7° 12′ East of Pulo Sapata, measured by good chronometers eight days afterward. The western side of the shoal, extends about 4 or 5 miles in a North and South direction, and its eastern side forms a curve outwards: several black rocks about the South point, appeared to be 6 feet above water, at our first approach, but at noon they were nearly covered, the tide having risen several feet. When within a cable's length of the S. W. side, in several places, no soundings could be got with 100 fathoms line.

* Captain Crawford, in the surveying ship, Investigator, saw these rocks in 1813, and made them in hon. 113° 50′ E.

† Captain Rosa, in 1817, could not find this shoal in the situation assigned to it by the Cape Packet.

‡ Captain Ross, thinks, this is the Half Moon Shoal of the Sea Horse, and that the Royal Captain was lost upon it, and not upon the shoal which bears her name.

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Royal Captalu's Shoal.

Geo. Site.

ROYAL CAPTAIN'S SHOAL, was seen by the Cape Packet three days after passing the above-mentioned shoal, which she approached within a mile on the S. E. side, and saw many rocks above water, probably covered or even with the surface of the sea at high tide. This shoal was also seen by Capt. Hamilton, of the Bombay, November 1st, 1810, who describes it as long and narrow, extending N. E. by N. and S.W. by S., with high breakers on a sand bank at the S.W. part, and it was found to be situated in lat. 9° 2′ 24″ N., lon. 116° 42¾′ E. by chronometers; the Cape Packet having made it in lon. 116° 44′ E. When this shoal bore from N. W. ½ N. to W. N.W., seen from the mizen rigging, distant about 5 miles, the island Palawan bore from East to E. S. E. at the same time, apparently not more than 11 leagues off.

Capt. Ross, in the surveying brig, Antelope, examined this shoal in April, 1811, and made its centre in lat. 9° 3′ 52″ N., lon. 116° 41½′ E.

Geo. Site of the Bombay's Shoal.

BOMBAY'S SHOAL, was seen by the Cape Packet, and at ½ past 2 P. M., October 31st, 1810, when the body of it bore North, distant 1 mile, she made it in lat. 9° 27′ N., lon. 116° 55′ E., or 1° 30′ East from the Viper's Shoal, by chronometer. November 2d, 1810, the Bombay saw this shoal, which appeared to be a basin of smooth water in the interior part, surrounded by breakers, with several rocks above water, and some dry sand on the northern and southern extremes. Capt. Hamilton made the body of the shoal in lat. 9° 26½′ N., lon. 116° 54′ E. by chronometers; and when visible from the mast-head, bearing N. by W. W., distant about 10 miles, the high round mountain Pampandoyen bore S. E. ½ E., remarkable rugged land S. E. ½ S., body of some high land to the southward S. S. E. ½ E., and the northern extreme of Palawan E. ½ N., distant from the nearest land 10 or 11 leagues.

Other shoals.

At a small distance to the northward of the Bombay's Shoal, there appear to be some additional dangers, seen by the Pennsylvania and other ships, which have deviated from the fair channel track; and all these shoals on the outside of this track are steep to, having no soundings near them.

Geo. limits of the Island Palawan.

PALAWAN, or PARAGUA, formed mostly of high land, with several remarkable hills, is a narrow island, but of great extent in an N. E. and S.W. direction; the S.West end being in lat. 8° 24′ N., lon. 117° 14′ E. by the survey of Capt. Ross, and the North end in about lat. 11° 30′ N., lon. 119° 37′ E. A cluster of low woody islands, stretches from its S.Western extremity to the Island Balabac, with intricate channels between some of them; and the northern extreme is encircled by a chain of small isles: both the Eastern and Western coasts, are also fronted by small islands or shoals, in many places, which render the navigation dangerous ire the night, for some of the shoals are 5 or 6 leagues off shore.

Ooloogaa Bay.

Geo. Site of Ragged Islands.

OOLOOGAN BAY, on the Western coast, is formed by rugged high land on the East side of the entrance, and by several islands to the westward; the entrance is in lat. 10° 12′ N., and the course leading into the bay is South, in 35 fathoms water, decreasing to 22 fathoms off the South point of Harbour Island, situated near the middle of the bay, where a ship might occasionally run for shelter in blowing weather. There is a passage on either side of Three Peaked Island, which is the small island outside of the entrance of the Bay. There is a high Table Hill in lat. 10° 49′ N., situated on a peninsula, on each side of which a bay is formed: the entrance of the northern one, called Malainpaya Bay, is about 9 or 10 miles to the northward of Table Hill, formed by numerous islands of various sizes, with a round island directly off it. Although narrow, the depths are 16 to 20 fathoms in the entrance, and also among the islands inside of the bay, where there is good shelter; here, is also anchorage in lat. 10° 33′ N., amongst the northernmost of a group of islands; and be-

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tween Malampaya Bay and the North point of Palawan, there is good anchorage in several places, amongst the numerous islands that line the coast. Ragged Islands are in lat. 11° 15′ Wands. N., lon. 119° 21′ E. by chronometer.

Soundings extend from the coast in some places 7 or 8 leagues, in other parts only 3 or 4 leagues, but the inhabitants of this island being in a savage state, it is not visited by navigators, and seldom seen, except by those who adopt the passage to China or Manilla, by the coast of Palawan, late in the season. The Western coast, and the shoals fronting it, have, however, been lately examined by Capt. Ross, and the situation of the most dangerous shoals correctly ascertained.

Sea Horse Bank.

Geo. Site.

SEA HORSE BANK, was examined by Capt. Ross, March 10th, 1817; being that day at noon, in lat. 10° 51′ N., steered West 8¼ miles till 3 P. M., when we perceived the water suddenly discoloured, had 10 fathoms, next cast 8 fathoms, fine white coral sand, then anchored in l0 fathoms on the Sea Horse Bank; sent two boats to sound, and at the same time, Capt. Crawford stood to the westward in the Investigator, to examine the bank in that direction. The boats could obtain soundings to the northward of our station, only at a short distance, and the least depth was 8 fathoms: to the S.West they carried soundings about 2 miles, gradually deepening from the ship into 28 fathoms, and afterward no ground: to the S. E. soundings did not extend above a ¼ mile from the ship. The Investigator, steered W. by N. about 2 miles from the Discovery at anchor, and never had less than 10 fathoms water. At 6 P. M. weighed, and steered to the Eastward, in soundings of 12, 9, 10, 13, and 25 fathoms, afterward got no ground at 37 and 45 fathoms. The ship's station on the bank, was in lon. 117° 55½′ E., or 4° 23′ East of Macao, and 2° 9′ 42″ West of Goat Island off Manilla Bay, by two excellent chronometers. The bank was estimated to be about 3 miles in length in an East and West direction, and not quite so broad.

Directions for sailing between the shoals, by the Palawan Passage.

SHIPS which proceed by the PALAWAN PASSAGE to China, must be very careful when passing between the shoals; for cloudy weather, with rain at times, are liable to deprive them of observations, in September, October, and November, when strong S.W. winds and gloomy weather, may be expected near the S.West end of Palawan. They should conform to the directions given for sailing to Canton River by this passage, in the second section, under the title, China Sea. If they adopt the channel betwixt the Louisa and Royal Charlotte Shoals (which is the best), lat. 6° 40′ N. is the proper track with a fair wind, which leads in mid-channel; although either shoal may be approached with a steady breeze in the day, observing to keep nearest to that which is on the windward side; and with a commanding wind, it may be advisable to get a sight of one of them, if not certain of your longitude. Having passed the Royal Charlotte Shoal, an E. by N. course should be steered about 20 leagues, but if the Louisa Shoal has been seen, steer E. N. E. from it about 30 leagues, then more to the N. Eastward to make the island Balabac, and pass it at 9 or 10 leagues distance.

Paraquas.

The most intricate part of the passage, is abreast of the S.W. part of Palawan, between the Half Moon, Royal Captain's, and Bombay's Shoals in the offing, and those nearer the coast, which are very dangerous. The outer shoals, are distant about 13 or 14 leagues from the S.West part of Palawan: and the INNER SHOALS, begin in lat. 8° 27′ N., lon. 117° E., abreast of the S.West end of this island, consisting of numerous shoal patches, or detached reefs of breakers, extending in a N. Easterly direction parallel to the coast, at the distance of from 4 to 6 leagues off shore. PARAQUAS, one of these reefs, is of circular form, near 3 leagues in diameter, having gaps through it, and a patch of breakers several miles outside: this outer patch is in lat. 9° 10′ N., and 5 or 6 leagues off shore. In lat. 9° 54′ N., lies another reef, called YORK BREAKERS, about 6 or 6½ leagues off shore, seen by the York; and most of these inner shoals have soundings very near to their outer edges, which will chew their proximity if the lead be kept briskly going in the night; but if sound-

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ings are got, haul off immediately, as some of the dangerous patches are close on the edge of soundings.

Capt. Ross, in the Discovery, March 12th, 1817, at noon, observed the lat. 9° 55′ 24″ N., then in 58 fathoms water, with the York Breakers bearing E. S. E. distant ½ a mile. He made, Long Point in lon. 118° 21¾′ E. by good chronometers, and it is in lat. 9° 39′ N.

Between the inner shoals and the coast, there is a channel with soundings, but it is seldom used; being rather confined, by other shoals scattered along the coast, the outer channel is justly preferred. This is 8 or 9 leagues wide in the narrowest part, and when past the Bombay's Shoal, it is at least 12 or 14 leagues wide, betwixt the York's Reef on the inside, and the shoals seen by the Pennsylvania and other ships, in the offing.

The best track to preserve in sailing through the channel, is to keep 9 or 10 leagues off the S.W. part of Palawan, to give a birth to the Inner Shoals, which consist of numerous dangerous patches in this place, and to keep at this distance until clear of the narrowest part of the channel; afterward, if 10 or 11 leagues distance is preserved from the coast, it will carry you in the fair channel, clear of the shoals. Attend then, to the directions previously, given, and referred to above, for farther guidance in proceeding along the coast of Luconia, toward Canton River. This passage, although intricate in unfavorable weather, seems preferable to an eastern passage in October and November; and during the whole period of the N. E. monsoon, it may be pursued by ships which sail well, when bound from Singapore Strait to China. The Royal Bishop, and York, got sight of Balabac, November 1st, 1786, and reached Macao on the 30th, by this passage. The London got sight of Balabac, October 28th, same year, stopped eight days at Sooloo, and did not reach Macao until January 9th, 1787, by the eastern passage.*

Additional Directions.

Capt. Philip Maughan, coadjutor with Capt. Ross, during the survey of the Palawan Shoals, recommends ships working through the Palawan Passage, to tack the moment soundings are got on the coast bank, as very shoal water, and even breakers, are often seen on its western edge. Excepting where shoals and rocky spots exist, the bank was generally found to consist of soft ground; but on account of the former, it would be very dangerous to approach near the coast in the night. In the day-time, an officer should keep a careful look out from the mast-head, if you resolve to take shelter under Table Mountain Point, or Long Point, during blowing weather; but if possible, it is advisable to continue working to windward. In running for the channel off the S.W. end of Palawan, the safest plan seems to be, to endeavour to reach lat. 8° 30′ N., lon. 116° 30′ E., at day-light; you will then probably pass the narrowest, and most dangerous part of the channel before the following evening, if bound to China. Do not approach the Calamianes Islands, or Busvagon, in passing, without great precaution, as many shoal spots are scattered about their coasts.

WEST and NORTH COASTS of LUZON, or LUCONLA, and the ISLANDS CONTIGUOUS; with SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Luban.

LUBAN, in lat. 13° 44′ N., (the body) extending 3½ leagues nearly N.W. and S. E., is the largest island of a detached group that fronts the S.W. end of Luconia, and the N.W. end of Mindora; it is high in the middle, but low at each extremity. The islands to the

* The navigation of the Palawan Passage, is farther illustrated, in a preceding section of this work, entitled Instructions for sailing through the China Sea at all seasons," under the article, Palawan Passage.

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southward of it, are high, and Amul to the eastward of it, is a high conical mountain. There is a passage between these islands and Mindora, and also a safe channel to the eastward of them, which is frequented by the Spanish ships, when going to, or coming from the Straits of Manilla. The northern part of Luban is lined by a reef, on which the Company's ship, Regent, was driven and wrecked, after having struck on one of the shoals off the S.W. end of Palawan, where she lost her rudder, October 12th, 1822, and afterward lost a temporary rudder in a gale of wind off Manilla Bay, in proceeding there for repairs.

Geo. Site of Goat Island.

GOAT ISLAND, in lat. 13° 51′ N., lon. 120° 7′ E., or 6° 35′* East of Macao by chronometers, is the outer, or westernmost island of the Luban group, and its S. E. point nearly joins the N.W. end of Luban; it is a low, flat, woody island, with a reef of foul ground projecting from its North end. From Point Calavite on Mindora, the West end of Goat Island bears N. 25° W., distant 9½ or 10 leagues; there is a bank about mid-way between this island and the South point of Manilla Bay, having on it from 9 to 15 fathoms water.

Subic Bay;

Minangas Bay;

SUBIC BAY entrance, is in about lat. 14° 42′ N., having an island in it, to the westward of which, is the proper passage into the bay, and very safe; but the passage to the eastward, is lined by reefs and very intricate. This hay stretches about 2 leagues inland, and forms two excellent harbours, one on the East side, and the other at the northern extremity, opposite to the village Subic; here, ships of any description may be sheltered from all winds, in 7 to 10 fathoms mud. About 2 or 3 miles to the southward of Subic Bay entrance, lies the port or bay of Minangas, where small ships may anchor in 5 fathoms, sheltered from all winds excepting those at West and W. S.W.: the course into it is East and E. by N., about mid-channel between the points, to avoid the shoals projecting from them, and there are 4 fathoms fine sandy bottom inside, within a musket-shot of the shore.

Silangin Bay;

Three Friars.

SILANGIN BAY, in lat. 14° 47′ N., is about ½ a mile wide at the entrance, and 2 miles deep, having shelter from all winds, but rather exposed to the N.W. and W. N.W. The South point is formed by a high, round, bare hill, with a reef projecting from it about a musket-shot to the northward; this must be avoided in steering East into the entrance of the bay, where the depth is 30 fathoms, decreasing gradually to the anchorage a little inside, near the beach on the South shore, which is the best birth. There is a stream of fresh water at the bottom of the bay. About 2½ miles to the S. S.W. of the South point of this bay, there are several rocky islets, called by some the Three Friars, with a coral reef projecting from them nearly a mile to the N. Westward; and between these rocks and the shore, there are 40 and 42 fathoms water.

Geo. site of Point Capones; adjacent coast.

POINT CAPONES, in lat, 14° 52½′ N., lon. 120° 3½′ E., or 6° 19½′ East by chronometers from Grand Ladrone, and bearing N. 3° W. from Goat Island, distant 20 or 21 leagues, is high bare land of reddish aspect, having two islands to the N.W. of it about 2 miles distant; the outermost of these, called Great Capone's Isle, is about 1 mile in length East and West, and nearly a league distant from the shore. About a mile outside of it, the depth is 42 or 44 fathoms; from 40 to 35 fathoms are found within a mile of the shore, betwixt this part of the coast and the North point of Subic Bay; and generally from 45 to 50 fathoms, about 3 or 4 miles off. From Marivele's Point to Subic Bay, the coast is in general, equally steep, and may be approached within 1 or 2 miles in some parts; but it is prudent to keep 3 or 4 miles from it, because rocks or foul ground extend out about ½ a mile or more from some points of land, and there are several indentations along this part of the coast, the chief of which is the Bay of Bagar, in lat, 14° 38′ N.

* Capt. Ross, in 1817, made 6° 33½′ East of Macao, by good chronometers.

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Playa-honda and neighbouring coast.

PLAYA-HONDA, about 6 or 7 leagues to the northward of Point Capones, is formed of a small hill, projecting a little into the sea; and the fort is 2 miles farther to the northward amongst trees, by which it is not easily perceived. The coast between them is of moderate height, with a level space of considerable extent, to the northward of Point Capones; but inland, the country is formed of high double mountains, one of which has a small sharp peak upon it. About 2 or 3 miles off, the depths are 35 and 40 fathoms; and the shore is lined by coral reefs, stretching out near a mile in some places; about 1½ mile from the beach, there is a small coral bank, bearing S.W. by S. from Playa-honda Fort, having on it 2 fathoms, and close to, 10 or 12 fathoms.

From Manilla Bay entrance to lat. 15° N., the land is generally very high and mountainous: here, it begins to decrease in height; and near the sea, to lat. 16° N. is not much elevated. There are several deep bays in the intermediate space, some of which are filled with shoals, projecting beyond the points that form their entrance.

Two Sisters and adders Island.

TWO SISTERS, (called Two Brothers in the Spanish charts) in about lat. 15° 50′ N., are low woody islands, with a conspicuous sandy beach, the northern one being largest, and distant about 2½ miles from the other. ADDER'S ISLAND, in about lat. 15° 55′ N.,* and 4 miles to the northward of the North Sister, is small, with trees on it, and a sandy beach. These islands have shoals projecting from them to the S. E. and Southward, nearly to the distance of a league in some places. It is prudent, to give them a good birth in passing, for they are about 2 or 2½ leagues off shore, which is farther out than the position generally assigned to them.†

Matsinglo Point, lies to the S. Eastward of the Two Sisters, and united to the southernmost by a reef, having inside to the eastward, the bay and town of Santa Cruz, or Matsinglo, which is frequented by the coasting vessels, and said to afford tolerable shelter: the channel leading to it, is on the North side of the northern isle, but narrow and intricate, being bounded by coral shoals, with no ground 60 fathoms a little outside of the entrance. To the southward of Matsinglo Point, lies the Bay of Marinloc, fronted by two islands; and Pulanguiain Bay a little farther to the southward, has also an island off its South point.

Point Cayman, and

Tambove Road.

POINT CAYMAN, about 4 miles to the northward of Adder's Island, has a reef projecting to the S. S.W., but the channel is safe betwixt the point and that island, with 30 fathoms water in it; and the point may be approached occasionally to 10 fathoms, on the tail of the reef. This channel leads to the road of Tambove, situated to the eastward of Point Cayman, and is open only to southerly winds: steering for the extremity of the beach, to the eastward of the point, the depths will be 12 to 15 fathoms coarse sand and shells, near the termination of the beach; the water will then deepen, but until in soft mud, it will he improper to anchor, for rocks are scattered over the bottom, where it consists of sand. Wood, and good water, may be got at this place.

Geo. Site of Cape Bolina, adjoining coast.

CAPE BOLINA, in lat. 16° 26′ N., lon. 119° 52′ E. measured by chronometers from Grand Ladrone, and bearing from Point Capones about N. ½ W., distant 31 or 32 leagues, is low even land covered with trees, and sloping gradually to the extremity, where it has a small rise and terminates in a bluff point, which is not discernible above 6 or 6½ leagues from the deck of a large ship. From lat. 16° N., or from Point Cayman nearly to this cape, the land is level, of moderate height, and sterile aspect, with a steep beach fronting the sea, and

* The ship Sir Edward Pellew, bound to China in October, 1806, ran upon the reef contiguous to the Two Sisters in the night, and was got off with difficulty. Passing them about 2 or 2½ leagues off in the Anna, we could not at that distance, perceive the dangers.

† A Spanish M. S. Chart in my possession, places all these islands 5 or 6 miles farther South than stated above; and the same M. S. places a shoal in lat, 15° 28′ N., about 2 leagues off shore, named Baxos Bagalagua, but its existence seems very doubtful.

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may be seen about 8 leagues. The coast in this space is bold to approach, having no ground at 50 fathoms within a mile of it, in many places; there are soundings near the beach, in some of the small bays, where a vessel might anchor occasionally, but there is no safe place of shelter for large ships. Point Arenas is about 2½ or 3 leagues to the southward of Cape Bolina, and 2 miles to the westward, being the westernmost part of the coast; the land between it and the cape, is level, and covered with trees. Point Valinasay, or Balinasay, is about a league to the S.Westward of Cape Bolina, and Valinasay Bay formed between them, is full of shoals.

Close to Cape Bolina there is a low islet, and the land of the cape is separated from the main by a narrow channel, not visible in the offing. Were it not for the shoals fronting this channel, and stretching nearly a league from the cape all round, shelter would be found inside from all winds; but the approach to it is dangerous, as a vessel may get entangled by the shoals, before the entrance of this intricate port is discerned.

Lingayen Bay.

LINGAYEN, or PANGASINAN BAY or GULF, situated to the eastward of Cape Bolina, is very extensive, formed by the low land from that cape, taking a S. Easterly direction about 4 leagues; and then the Mongos-Mongos chain of islets and rocks, extending along it about 5 leagues nearly S. E. by S., lines the West side of the bay. As the coast from the cape, and three islets, are fronted by shoals projecting out about a league, ships ought to give the North side of the cape a good birth in the N. E. monsoon; for a southerly current may be liable at times, to drift them into Lingayen Bay, or near the shoals on its western side. About 1½ or 2 miles inside of the high islet Cavalitian, which is the last of the Mongos-Mongos Chain, there is good anchorage in muddy bottom, at the entrance of a small port, called Sual, where a ship might be warped into, should circumstances render that necessary.

The Bay of Lingayen is about 9 or 10 leagues deep, and nearly the same breadth across the entrance, from Cape Bolina to Point St. Fernando, or Balanac. Lingayen River, a place of some trade, is situated at the bottom of the bay, into which the small coasting vessels can pass over the bar. The rivers St. Fabian and St. Thomas, are farther eastward, the former directly in the S. Eastern angle of the bay. Point Napacmac, or Namapacan, situated about 4 leagues to the northward of Point St. Fernando, forms the western extremity of the Bay of Napacmac, which extends about 3½ leagues to the eastward of the point. Point St. Jago is about 7 leagues to the northward of Point Napacmac, and a few miles to the northward of it, Point Esteran forms the South extremity of the bay of the same name.

Bigan Road,

and adjacent coast.

BIGAN ROAD, in about lat. 17° 35′ N., is sheltered from northerly winds, by Point Dile, which projects far out to the N.Westward, but exposed to the South, and westward: the anchorage is near the shore, off the river bearing about East, in 10 or 12 fathoms, from whence the bank shelves down suddenly to no soundings. About a league inland, to the E. N. E. of the road, there is a chasm between two mountains, called Abra de Bigan, or GAP of BIGAN, which is very conspicuous when viewed from the offing, and is a good mark to know this part of the coast. From Point St. Fernando to this place, there are several towns along the coast, which is bold to approach, there being no soundings within 2 or 3 miles of the shore: the country is formed of high double mountains, with low woody points to seaward in some places, and the direction of the coast, is mostly North and N. by E.

Solon-Solon Bay,

and neighbouring coast.

SOLON-SOLON BAY, about 4 or 5 leagues to the northward of Bigan Road, is sheltered from all winds but those that blow between S.W. and W. N.W.; there are good depths in it, and the reefs bounding the entrance, with a rocky bank in the mouth of the bay, will be seen in clear weather. The rocky hank has 1 and 2 fathoms on it, with a passage on each side of 9 or 10 fathoms water; but that to the northward, between it and the North point of the bay, is too contracted. The coast from Bigan Road to this bay, should not be ap-

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proached under 3 or 4 miles, for the island Pingue, or Bantay, lies about 1½ mile off the projecting part of the land to the South of Solon-Solon Bay, surrounded by breakers and foul ground; and to the northward of it, the coast is lined with coral reefs, stretching out a great way, as far as the entrance of Solon-Solon Bay.

Salomague Bay.

SALOMAGUE BAY, adjoining to the northward of Solon-Solon Bay, is separated from it by a point of land encompassed with shoals: and West from this point 1½ and 2 miles distance, there are two rocky banks with 4 fathoms, or probably less water on them. This bay is more capacious, sheltered from the same winds, and deeper than the former.

Directions to enter it.

The North point, is also like the southern one, encompassed with a reef, which stretches to the eastward along the northern side of the bay; and an island of moderate height is situated about ¾ of a mile from the point, with a reef projecting off it about a cable's length to the S.Westward. This place may be known from the offing, by a chasm or gap in some high mountains, which overtop the rest of the chain on this coast: it resembles the Gap of Bigan, but is not so large, nor does it approach so near to the sea as that gap; which may also be seen bearing about S. E., when a ship is 4 leagues West of Salomague Bay. When the Gap of Salomague bears about E. ¼ S., an East course will carry a ship direct toward the island at the North point of the bay, which should be approached in a large ship bearing about East; and the reef off its S.W. point ought to be passed close, in 25 or 30 fathoms mud, to avoid the rocky banks that lie to the westward of the South point of the bay; she may then steer right in for the middle of the bay, rather inclining toward the northern shore, and anchor in 8 fathoms. Farther in, there is a shoal spot, which will be perceived in clear weather by the discoloured water on it: the best birth to moor, is in 6 or 7 fathoms mud, opposite to some Rice Magazines on the North shore.

Geo. Site of Cape Bajadore; coast from Salomague.

CAPE BAJADORE, or BOXEADOR, in about lat. 18° 32′ N., lon. 120° 39′ E. by chronometers and lunar observations, is a low point of land, with a reef of breakers projecting out about 1½ mile; and it forms the N.Western extremity of Luconia. From Salomague. mague Bay to this cape, the direction of the coast varies between North, N. N. E., to N. N.W. near the cape, by which a bight is formed to the southward of it, said to have anchorage near the shore; and in some parts, it is low and woody to seaward.

The chain of high mountains up in the country, which commences near St. Fabian in the Bay of Lingayen, extends parallel to the coast, gradually diminishing in height; and stretching more inland about 8 leagues to the southward of Cape Bajadore, leaves a spacious plain fronting the sea. Another chain of hills, begins about 2½ leagues from the shore, which stretches to the northward parallel to it.

About 2½ leagues to the northward of Salomague, at a place called Badoc, or Lugue, Sinay Isle lies about ½ a mile off a point of land, surrounded by a reef; and the coast between these places is rocky, with breakers projecting from it about a mile.

Ilara Hummock, stands near the sea about 7 leagues to the southward of Cape Bajadore; being of middling height, with patches of trees on it, and there being no other of similar appearance, it is a good mark in sailing along the coast. Soundings are got about a league off shore, from Salomague to Ilara Hummock, but from 1 or 2 leagues beyond the latter, to Cape Bajadore, none are obtained at the distance of 2 miles from the shore; and the whole of this part of the coast, is destitute of shelter for ships, with rocky patches stretching out above a mile in some places.

From Cape Bajadore, the coast takes an N. E. and E. N. E. direction to Bangui Point, in about lat. 18° 39′ N., and distant from the former about 5 leagues.

Point Cavnaian, and the coast to Port Bangui.

POINT CAVNAIAN, (or Punta Alto de Bangui), in about lat. 18° 40′ N., has a reef

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projecting about a mile out, and is the northernmost land of Luconia, distant about 7 leagues N. Eastward from Cape Bajadore; the coast between them, at one part, forms a considerable bay, with some rocky islets near the shore; and there is anchorage in the bottom of the bay, adjoining to the small port of Bangui. The entrance of this port is between two points with reefs projecting from them, and the course into it is S. E.; the depths were formerly 7 and 8 fathoms in it, decreasing gradually to 4 fathoms within a cable's length of the beach inside; but it is said, that this port has been shut up by an earthquake, for a considerable time.

Point Caravallos and the adjecent coast.

POINT CARAVALLOS, is a bluff steep point of white cliffs, bearing about E. by S. 3½ or 4 leagues from Point Cavnaian, having a mass of high mountains contiguous, which go by the same name. Close to the point, there is an islet, and others lie near the shore, about 1½ or 2 miles to the eastward. About 4 leagues eastward from Point Caravallos, there is a round hill of middling height, called Pate Point, or Cabicunga, and the whole of the coast from Cape Bajadore to this place is steep, without any soundings until near the shore.

The land is of middling height, and in some parts rather low close to the sea, with several rivers; but the country inland, is high and mountainous.

Coast of Cagayan.

COAST OF CAGAYAN, from Point Pate to Cape Engano forms a regular concavity, with a chain of mountains inland, and a considerable space of moderately elevated, or rather low land, fronting the sea; which is interspersed with villages, and intersected by rivers, in several places. There is a continued beach along this coast, with regular soundings in general, 35 or 40 fathoms about 1½ or 2 miles off, on the western part; and the same depths extend 3 or 4 miles off shore, when farther to the eastward. The only danger known, is a sand bank on which the sea breaks in blowing weather, situated about 2 miles N. by E. from the bar of Abula River, and fronting the point to the westward of the river; the West end of it bearing about South from the middle of the island Fuga; and it extends E. S. E. and W. N.W. about 2 miles, and about a mile outside of it, there are from 35 to 40 fathoms water, fine black sand.

The entrance of the Great River Tajo, about 4½ leagues to the eastward of Abula River, has good anchorage in 10 or 11 fathoms, about 2 miles N. N. E. from its mouth. T point on the S. E. side is known by the church and convent of the town of APARRI, built on it; opposite to which, or North from the church, is the best anchorage, with the Volcano Mountain on Camiguin, bearing N. N. E. Easterly. The river is about ⅓ of a mile wide at the entrance, with 2 and 2½ fathoms on the bar, deepening to 5 and 6 fathoms mud, inside. The coast to the eastward of this river is flat, with soundings of 20 to 25 fathoms black sand, about 2 leagues off shore.

Port Vizente;

PORT SAN VIZENTE, about 8 or 9 leagues to the E. N. E. of Aparri, is formed by the small island of the same name, situated betwixt the N. E. end of Luconia and its adjacent island, called Palaubi, or the island of Cape Engano. There is room in this port for three or four ships, sheltered from all winds; but the entrance is narrow and intricate, being formed between shoals on each side, which project from the S.W. part of Palaubi, and from the island Vizente; a ship, therefore, is obliged to warp in.

anchorage along the coast.

There is good anchorage in 5 fathoms, opposite to the mouth of the port, sheltered from all winds, but those that blow between West and S.W. There is also anchorage along the coast, betwixt Aparri Road and this place, in 15 or 20 fathoms within 2 miles of the shore; the soundings are pretty regular, excepting a hole in the bank about 3 or 3½ leagues to the S.Westward of Vizente, with 70 and 80 fathoms water about 2½ miles offshore, having close to the edge of it 30 fathoms black sand.

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Geo. Site of Cape Engano.

CAPE ENGANO,* in lat. 18° 39′ N., lon. 122° 16′ E. by chronometers from the Grand Ladrone, and by observations taken in 1802, forms the N. E. point of the island Palaubi, and it is moderately elevated; the South point of the same island, is a round hill rather higher, and forms the East point of Port San Vizente. From the point that forms Cape Engano, a coral reef with high breakers, and several rocks above water, projects to the E. N. E. about 3 miles; and patches of shoal water, stretch about a mile beyond it.

This reef fronts the eastern side of the island, at the same distance; extending southward about 4 miles, until abreast of the round hill that forms its South point, and joins to the N. E. end of Luconia.

Close to the northward of Cape Engano, there are two islets, the outermost of which, called Lava, or Cape Islet, is a square steep mass of lava, about ½ a mile in extent, and may be seen 8 hr 10 leagues.

This is the northernmost land of Cape Engano, and the channel between it and Camiguin is near 7 leagues wide, and clear of danger. As the currents set strong to the northward here, in the southerly monsoon, a ship proceeding from the coast to the eastward, may pass within a mile or less of the North side of Lava Islet, and then steer E. N. E., which will carry her about a mile clear of the North end of the Cape Reef. It is proper, with light winds, to keep on this side of the channel, to prevent being drifted to the northward by the currents, near the Guinapac, or Didica's Rocks.

ISLANDS, CHANNELS, and DANGERS, to the northward of LUCONIA, and near FORMOSA; with SAILING DIRECTIONS from CANTON RIVER to NEW SOUTH WALES.

Babuyan Islands.

BABUYAN, or FIVE ISLANDS, form a kind of circular chain, fronting the coast of Cagayan at a considerable distance; the channels between these islands are safe, without soundings, and their coasts are generally steep to.

Geo. Site of Lapurip.

LAPURIP, or DALUPIRI, the westernmost of these islands, in lat. 19° 15′ N., lon. 121° 34′ E., is distant about 12 leagues to the N. Eastward of Point Cavnaian; it has a level appearance, extending about N.W. and S. E. 2 or 2½ leagues, and may be seen from 10 to 11 leagues distance. About 1½ mile off the South point, lies the islet Rijutan, with shoals projecting from it a considerable way to the southward; but the water is deep in the narrow channel, betwixt the islet and the South end of Lapurip. It is said, that refreshments may be procured at this island.

Fuga.

Port of Musa.

FUGA, or NEW BABUYAN, in lat. 19° 1′ N., distant about 4 leagues S. Eastward from Lapurip, is lower, of an even appearance, extending East and West upward of 2 leagues, and nearly half that breadth, terminating in low land at the eastern part. There are irregular soundings along the S.W. side of the island, where a ship may anchor occasionally, and the port of Musa is formed betwixt the West end, and two small islands adjacent, called Barrete and Mabag. The best channel is from the southward, between Barrete and the West point of Fuga, the depths being 14 and 16 fathoms outside, and from 9 to 12 fathoms in mid-channel.

* This name is sometimes applied to the N. Eastern extremity of the main land of Luconia, about 3 leagues farther to the S. Eastward, which is called Point Mauve by the natives.

B B B 2

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The West channel betwixt the two islands, is narrow, with soundings from 6 to 10 fathoms. The North channel is rendered more intricate, by a reef stretching half way over from the N. E. point of Mabag toward Fuga, and the tail of this reef joining to the N.W. point of Fuga, is a bed of rocks with 5 and 6 fathoms water on it; this passage ought, therefore, not to be attempted unless in a case of necessity, and a vessel to enter by it, must borrow pretty close to Fuga. The island Barrete, has a reef to the westward, and another projecting from its South point; water may be procured with difficulty, some distance inland. In 1764, many wild cattle, horses, and plenty of guavoes were found here.

The port of Musa is only fit to run into, in a case of necessity; although sheltered from the sea, the bottom every where being coral rock, mixed in some places with a little coarse sand or gravel, a ship is very liable to have her cable's cut by the rocks; this place is in lat. 19° 2′ N. The depths are from 17 to 12 fathoms in the middle, shoaling to 4 or 5 fathoms near the coral reefs that line the shores on either side, and the breadth of the port is not above ¾ of a mile. The best anchorage is nearest to the N. E. side of Barrete, in 14 or 15 fathoms, where the bottom is rotten coral and coarse sand; near Fuga, it is all very rocky.

The tides rise about 5 or 6 feet, but are very irregular in time, and direction. The London took shelter here, November 3d, 1764, and repaired in part, the damages she had sustained four days previously in a Ty-foong, close to the eastward of Monmouth Island; in which she was obliged to cut away her mizen-mast, top-masts, and best bower anchor.

Calayan.

CALAYAN, in lat. 19° 28′ N., about 5 or 6 leagues to the N. Eastward of Lapurip, and 8 leagues N. by E. from Fuga, is formed of mountainous and uneven land, highest in the centre, with low gaps in some places. It extends nearly S. E. and N.W. from 2 to 3 leagues, is steep to, without any safe anchorage, and may be seen about 15 leagues: contiguous to its South part, there are some rocks above water, which stretch out more than a mile; and about 1½ mile off the N. E. point, there is an islet about 1 mile in extent North and South, called Panuctan.

Geo. Site of Claro Babuyan.

CLARO BABUYAN, or OLD BABUYAN, in lat. 19° 37′ N., about lon. 121° 54′ E., distant about 10 leagues to the eastward of Calayan, is the most northerly and highest of these islands, in extent about 2 or 2½ leagues. There is a reef projecting from the West end of the island, and the mount on this part is a volcano; betwixt which, and the mountains on the eastern part, there is a concave curve in the form of a crescent, when viewed from the northward or southward; but when the island is seen at a great distance from the eastward, it appears as one round mountain, with a detached hummock to the northward. The South point is steep and rocky, with a black rocky islet, about a mile off, in form a sugar loaf.

Camiguin.

CAMIGUIN, in lat. 19° 4′ N., bearing nearly South from Claro Babuyan, distant about 10 leagues, is a high hilly island, about 2½ or 3 leagues in extent from N. N. E. to S. S.W. The shore is lined with coral rocks in some places, having soundings of 30 to 35 fathoms about a mile off; and the land is low close to the sea, along the eastern and northern sides of the island. The southern part is formed of a high mountain, visible at the distance of 20 leagues, which was formerly a volcano. To the westward of this mountain, there are some steep white cliffs fronting the sea, about 2 miles to the southward of the South point of Port San Pio Quinto.

Port San Pio Quinto.

This port is situated a little to the southward of the middle of the island, on the West side, formed by a concavity in the land about 3 miles wide and 1½ mile in depth, sheltered from the sea by the island San Pio Quinto, which lies in the middle of the entrance.

This island is high, about 1½ mile in circumference, steep to seaward, having on each side a safe channel leading to the port. The South channel is 4 mile wide, with 40 fathoms in the entrance, decreasing gradually inside; it is formed between the island San Pio Quinto and

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the South point of the port, which, with an islet near it, has the colour of iron; and a little to the southward, there is a boiling spring of salt water.

The North channel, formed betwixt the island and North point of the port, is about a mile wide, with soundings fronting it of 28 and 30 fathoms, and 17 or 18 fathoms inside; but there is a patch with only 6 and 8 fathoms rocky bottom, rather nearer the island than mid-channel. A coral reef projects about ¼ mile from the North point of the entrance; the bottom in the channels and in the port, is mostly soft sand, with a little coral in some places, and the soundings decrease gradually to the shore, around. The best anchorage is in 15 or 16 fathoms, to the eastward of the island San Pio Quinto, opposite to a rivulet of fresh water, which bears E. N. E. from that island. The tide rises about 6 feet, and flows to 6 hours on full and change of the moon. This may be considered the only place amongst these islands, which is tolerably safe for a large ship; for the cables are not so liable to be injured, as in port Musa, at the island Fuga.

Guinapac Rocks.

GUINAPAC ROCKS, bearing E. by S. from the North point of Camiguin, distant 9 or 10 miles, consist of two rocks like towers, one larger than the other, with some smaller rocks contiguous to them. There are no soundings within musket-shot of them on the outside; and between them and the nearest part of Camiguin, there is a channel 2 leagues wide, which is clear on the island side.

Didicas Rocks.

DIDICAS ROCKS, bearing N. E. ½ E. from Guinapac Rocks 7 or 8 miles, and distant 4½ or 5 leagues from the North point of Camiguin, are about 2 miles in extent N. E. and S.W.; they consist of four sharp pointed rocks much higher than the former, and when seen at a considerable distance, appear like ships under sail. There are amongst them, many rocks of various sizes, which render the approach to them dangerous in light winds; for the currents run strong to the northward, producing ripplings like breakers, In the vicinity of, and among these dangerous rocks; and there are no soundings near them, where a ship could anchor in a case of necessity.

Bashee Islands.

BASHEE ISLANDS,* consist of a chain of mostly high islands, situated to the northward of the former, and extending to lat. 21° 8′ N.; the channels among them are thought to be safe, free from hidden dangers.

Geo. Site of Balintang Isles, and the contiguous channels.

BALINTANG, or RICHMOND ISLES, in lat. 19° 58′ N., lon. 122° 14′ E. by chronometers, are the southernmost of those called Bashees, and lie nearly mid-way betwixt Claro Babuyan and the nearest Bashee Islands to the northward, called Monmouth Group. They consist of three small, but high peaked islets or rocks, discernible about 9 leagues off, and are in one bearing E. by S. The westernmost is much larger than the others, and a hole is seen through it when bearing N. E.: they are steep to, may be passed on either side at 2 or 3 miles distance, and the sea beats furiously against them in blowing weather. They bear S. ½ E. from the high mount on the North end of Batan Island, and about N. N. E. from Claro Babuyan; the channel between them and the latter, is about 6 leagues wide; and the other to the northward, about 5 or 5½ leagues wide. These channels are wider than any of the other passages among the Bashee Islands, and may be distinguished as the Great Passage, or Balintang Channel; which is frequently used by the Company's ships, when they proceed by the Eastern Passage to China.

Geo. Site of Batan Island.

BATAN, or MONMOUTH ISLAND, extends from lat. 20° 17½′ N. in a N. N. E. direction about 3 leagues, the high mount on its northern extremity being in lat. 20° 23½′ N.

* Bashee, Balintang, Batan, Sabtang, and Bayat, are native names.

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lon. 122° 11′ E. by mean of a series of observations by moon and chronometers, taken in different ships. The rest of the island is of considerable height, and near the South end there is a small nob called Pyramid Peak. There are several villages on this island, and anchorage on the East side; here, Dampier anchored in 15 fathoms water, where he remained from the 6th of August to the 25th of September, 1687, and procured a large supply of bogs, goats, and sweet potatoes. There is also anchorage at Ivanna Bay on the West side of the island, upon a bottom of white sand in 5½ to 8 fathoms, within a small ¼ mile of the village bearing E. by S. or E. by S. ½ S.; farther out, the bottom is rocky, with small patches of white sand. The South end of the island has a reef of breakers projecting from it to a considerable distance. There are strong ripplings at times, in the channels among those islands, with irregular tides; but the water does not rise above 4 or 5 feet at full and change of the moon. The Révolutionnaire frigate, touched twice at this island not long ago, found good anchorage, and all sorts of provision very cheap, the price of a bullock being from 1 to 4 dollars.

Sabtang,

Bashee,

Goat Island

SABTANG (called Monmouth Island by Dampier) is a middling high island, about 3½ or 4 miles in length North and South, separated from the S.W. point of Batan by a narrow gut, which is said to afford a passage. BASHEE ISLAND, is small and rather low, excepting a hill on the southern extremity, where there is a village: it is separated from the West side of Sabtang, by a channel about 1 or 1½ mile wide; in the southern part of which, there are soundings from 20 to 12 fathoms, and 6 or 7 fathoms close to the shores on each side, the bottom mostly coral rock. The ship St. Jean Baptiste, anchored here in l4fathoms water, finder the East side of Bashee Island, in August, 1769, and procured fresh water at a small rivulet inside of the S.W. point of Sabtang. This is the only safe landing place, the shores of both islands being fortified by a reef; through some of the gaps in it, the boats of the natives can pass in fine weather. There are several pools of fresh water on these islands, and plantations of sugar cane, Indian corn, and fruits of various kinds. GOAT ISLAND, situated about 1½ mile to the W. N.W. of Bashee Island, is also small and rather low, with some cultivated spots on it. The South ends of these three islands, lie on a transit bearing N.W. by W. and S. E. by E. from each other; and with the large island Batan, they form the Batan or Monmouth Group. These islands are well inhabited, and abound with bullocks, goats, pigs, fowls, &c.; and on their western sides, anchorage may generally be found near the shore.

Geo. Site of Grafton Island.

HIGH ROUND ISLAND, or GRAFTON ISLAND, in lat. 20° 34½′ N., lon. 122° 4′ E., bearing N. by W. ¼ W. from the North part of Batan Island about 4 leagues, is small and steep to; the channel betwixt it and the latter is safe, through which the True Briton, Capt. Clarke, passed in the night, June 14th, 1802; and the Vansittart, Capt. Dalrymple, passed through it in 1821.

Bayat and other Islands.

BAYAT, or ORANGE ISLAND, about 2 leagues to the N.W. of Grafton Island, is between 2 or 3 leagues in extent North and South, of an even appearance, without any considerable hills, may be seen 13 leagues; and it is said to have anchorage near to its western side, where refreshments may be procured. Between Bayat and the northernmost Bashee Islands. there are two or three small islands, the positions of which are not so well ascertained as the others; but they all lie near the same meridian, forming a chain between the other islands, and there is thought to be no invisible danger near them. The channel betwixt these and the northernmost islands, is 7 miles wide, and perfectly clear, through which the Arniston passed in 1797, and the Valentine in 1764.

Geo. Site of the North Bashees.

NORTH BASHEES, consist of one high island, in lat. 21° 3½′ N., and two small, but

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high islets to the N. N. E. of the former: the two latter, are not visible so far as the other island, which may be discerned 13 leagues off, and they appear with round convex summits in some bearings, but the southernmost generally makes in the form of a peak. Between the two North islets, and the other high one to the S. S.W., there is a channel about 3¼ mites in breadth, through which the Royal Admiral passed, October 13th, 1801. The North Bashee Island is in lat. 21° 9′ N., lon. 122° 0′ E., by Capt. Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, measured from Macao by chronometers. Some navigators make it 7 or 8 miles farther to the eastward.

Ty-foongs, or tempests, are liable to happen in both monsoons, among these islands situated between Luconia and Formosa; and in general, the weather is very unsettled in this part, with frequent strong gales. Shocks, from earthquakes, have at times been felt here, and also in ships, near to both the East and West sides of Luconia.

Geo. Site Botel Tobago Xima.

BOTEL TOBAGO XIMA, in lat. 21° 59′ N., lon. 121° 38′ E.,* (the centre), by the observations of Capt. Ross, bears from North Bashee Island N. N.W. distant 55 miles, by the transit bearing taken when both were in sight, the latter then bearing S. S. E. and the former N. N.W. It is a high island, 3 or 4 miles in extent, appearing in the form of a saddle, or with a gap in it when viewed from S. S.W. or N. N. Eastward, and may be seen 16 or 17 leagues from the mast-head. The high part of the island is crowned with trees, and it is well inhabited, having several large villages on the southern part.

Little Botel.

LITTLE BOTEL TOBAGO XIMA, in lat. 21° 56½′ N., is a small island of considerable height, with some bushes on it, about 2 or 2½ miles distant to the S. Eastward of the southern part of the Great Island of this name: a reef projects from its South end about a cable's length or more, which is steep to, there being no soundings near these islands.

Gadd's Rock.

GADD'S ROCK, or CUMBRIAN'S REEF, distant 4½ or 5 leagues South of Little Botel Tobago Xima, and situated in the fair channel betwixt that island and the North Bashees, appears to have been first seen by Capt. Gadd, in the Swedish ship Oster-Gothland, January 12th, 1800, who thought it to be the Vele Rete Rocks. High breakers were seen on it, extending nearly East and West about a league, and several rocks appeared with their heads above water, among the breakers; when in one with the East end of Botel Tobago Xima, the reef bore N. ¼ W., the body of Little Botel then N. ¼ E., and Capt. Gadd made it in lat. 21° 45′ N. This reef was seen in 1808, by Capt. Purefoy, of the Charlotte; and by Capt. Tate, of the Cumbrian, July 26th, 1809, when working out between the islands, with a light easterly wind. This danger was also seen, very distinctly, by Capt. Johnson, of H. M. S. Cornwallis, as will appear by the following extract from the journal of Captain W. Smyth.†

"January 6th, 1808, being under double reefed top-sails, going about 8 knots, at 10h. 50 minutes A. M., saw the island Botel Tobago Xima bearing N. N.W., distant 8 or 9 leagues. At 11h. 50m. we suddenly observed the water to break a-head, and soon after perceived the rocks, on which we bore up, and passed to leeward of them, keeping them pretty close aboard. At noon, the breakers on the rocks bore N. 47° E. distant 1½ mile, observed

* La Perouse made its S. E. point in lat. 21° 57′ N., lon. 121° 52′ E., and I made it in lon. 121° 48′ E. by chronometers measured from lunar observations, but Capt. Ross made the East point in lon. 121° 39½′ or 121° 40′ E., and the North Bashee in lon. 122° 0′ E., as stated above, which is probably nearest the truth.

† Capt. W. Smyth, who was then a Lieutenant in the Cornwallis, is an officer of great ability in scientific pursuits, and lately employed by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, on important surveys in the Mediterranean Sea, and of the harbour of Syracuse, which he has elegantly, and accurately performed. He lately received the honour of knighthood from the King of Sicily, for the valuable services rendered to that monarch, whilst in the active performance of his professional duties for the benefit of navigation.

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lat. 21° 41′ N., which makes this reef in lat. 21° 42½′ N., and bearing South from Little Botel Tobago Xima."

The situation of this very dangerous rock (until lately not known to exist), has been correctly ascertained by Capt. Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, who examined it, June 9th, 1817. When on with the highest part of Little Botel Tobago Xima, it bore N. 2° W. by compass, and he found it to be about 100 yards in length; the boat had 2 fathoms water about the middle of the rock, which probably might have been near the time of high water, as Capt. Gadd perceived some points of rocks amongst the breakers, when he discovered this danger; for there is a considerable rise and fall of tide hereabout, on the springs, at times, affording sufficient cause, to suppose, that some parts of the rock must be level with the surface of the sea, or visible above the hollow of the waves at low water, when there is much swell.

Geo. Site.

By the observations of Capt. Ross, Gadd's Rock is in lat. 21° 43′ N., lon. 121° 41′ E., differing only ½ a mile in latitude from its position, as stated above by Capt. Smyth, and only 2 miles from the latitude assigned to it by Capt. Gadd.

To avoid this danger, ships should borrow toward the North Bashee Islands, which is the widest channel, or keep near to Botel Tobago Xima, and take particular care to avoid the mid-channel track. The variation in this channel, in 1808, was 0° 18′ Easterly.

Geo. Site of vele Rete Rocks.

VELE RETE ROCKS, or REEF, in lat. 21° 42′ N., lon. 120° 52′ E. or 7° 19½′ East from Macao by chronometers, measured by Capt. Ross, is distant about 16 leagues to the westward of the Gadd's Rock; and bears about S. ½ W. from the low S. E. point of Formosa, distant 4½ leagues. This is a mass of rocks, several of them a little detached from each other, and even with the surface; some of them are above water, and may be seen 9 or 10 miles. The channel betwixt this danger and the South end of Formosa, is about 4 leagues wide, and very safe. But very turbulent ripplings are often experienced in this, and the neighbouring channels, which Capt. Ross observed to extend in a N. E. and S.W. direction, and running so high, that the breakers resembled the sea beating furiously over a dangerous shoal. They were whirled round in these ripplings, in the Discovery, and although previously sailing with a fresh breeze, were almost becalmed on entering into the ripplings.

Islands to the northward of Botel Tobago Xima.

Ships passing to the southward of these dangers in thick weather, or in the night, should keep well toward the North Bashee Islands, making allowance for a northerly current, which is generally experienced in light winds, and during the S.W. monsoon. From lat. 21° 15′ N. to 21° 20′ N. is a good track to preserve, when passing between the Bashee Islands and Gadd's Rock, in thick weather. Several ships during light winds, have been drifted by the current between Formosa and Botel Tobago Xima; the Glatton and Canton were drifted close to a small island in lat. 22° 39′ N. which is surrounded by breakers, projecting out to the N. Eastward a considerable way: this island is 14 leagues to the northward of Botel Tobago Xima, and 8 or 9 leagues distant from the East Coast of Formosa.

Formosa.

Geo. Site of the South Point.

FORMOSA, or PAKAN, called also TY-OAN or TY-WAN, is about 70 leagues in length, extending nearly N. N. E. and S. S.W.; the land is generally high in the interior, but low in some places to seaward, with soundings near the shore, particularly on the Western side. The southern part has on it a high double peaked mountain, discernible at 20 leagues distance in clear weather; from which the land slops down, terminating in a low projecting point, called the South Cape, or South point of Formosa. This point is situated in lat. 21° 54′ N., lon. 120° 55′ E. by lunar observations and chronometers; bearing about W.½ S. from the West end of Botel Tobago Xima, distant 13 leagues.

A reef is thought to project from it, for Capt. Maxwell, in H. M. ship Alceste, when passing between Botel Tobago Xima and Formosa, saw very high breakers, which he thought

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were upon a reef of sunken rocks, projecting to a considerable distance from the low South point of Formosa; the noise of the breakers was distinctly heard at the distance of 4 miles.

To the N. Eastward of the point, there is a village, and a harbour for small vessels; and there is said to be soundings near the coast on the West side of the point.

Geo. Site of Lamay Islands.

Formosa Western Coast.

LAMAY ISLAND, situated about 13 leagues N.W. from the South Cape, and about 3 leagues from the coast, is in lat. 22° 19¼′ N., lon. 120° 27′ E. or 6° 55′ East from Macao, twice measured by four good chronometers, and in lon. 120° 28½′ E. by lunar observations, according to Capt. Ross, who examined this island in the Discovery: it may be seen about 6 leagues from the deck, having high yellow cliffs to the westward, a small sandy beach to the eastward, being about 2½ miles in length; and it is inhabited by a few fishermen. To the westward, no ground was got with 70 fathoms line, but about 3 miles to the eastward of the island, a bank of soft mud commences, which extends off Formosa, having soundings on it from 15 to 26 fathoms. In steering from the S. W. point of Formosa, along the west coast, the Discovery had no soundings off the S. W. point until within about ½ a mile of the shore, then had 120 fathoms; and with Lamay Island bearing about W. N.W., got 30 and 40 fathoms on the mud bank when about 1½ mile off Formosa, and passed between the island and the coast. At anchor in 15 fathoms, very soft holding ground, about 3 miles off the town of Pong-lieu bearing N. 59° E., Lamay Island bore from S. 86¼° W. to N. 82½° W., the N.W. extreme of the coast, a small black hummock N. 41° W., southern extreme of the coast S. 22½° E. Pong-lieu town is very populous, and governed by a Chinese Mandarin; there is a good bazar, and the inhabitants came off to the Discovery in catamarans, bringing refreshments for sale. From this place, she worked to the westward, and anchored in 15 fathoms about 3 miles off the coast of Formosa, and 5 or 6 miles from Lamay Island, with the black hummock bearing N. 7½° W., brow of Western Hill N. 26½° W., a town near which there is a river or inlet and many boats at anchor, bore N. 58° E. distant 3 or 4 miles, Lamay Island from S. 14° W. to S. 3° E., the S. E. extreme of the coast S. 35° E. In working across, as Lamay Island was approached, the soundings increased from 35 fathoms into very deep water, having 52 fathoms about a mile off Lamay, from the S. E. and eastern parts of which, a reef projects to a small distance. From this last anchorage, the Discovery steered about 4 miles to the westward, then got off the bank of soundings.

About 13 or 14 leagues to the northward of Lamay Island, lies the harbour of Ty-wan or Ty-oan (formerly the Dutch settlement of Fort Zealand), with a table hill inland to the E. S. Eastward. This harbour, and the other inlets along the West coast, are mostly fronted by shoals; and from the entrance of the River Ponkan, in lat. 23° 25′ N., sand banks project 3 or 4 leagues into the offing. Ty-oan Harbour will not admit vessels which draw above 7 or 8 feet water, and the other inlets are also shoal. Europeans have little intercourse with this island at present.

Geo. Site of Northern parta, Isles adjacent.

The northern extremity of Formosa is in lat. 25° 18′ N., lon. 121° 34′ E., the N.W. point in lat. 25° 11′ N., lon. 121° 6′ E., the N. E. point in lat. 25° 11′ N., lon. 121° 56′ E. by chronometers. There is a group of three isles off the N. E. point, with a safe channel about 3½ or 4 leagues wide, betwixt them and the point.

Killon Harbour.

KILLON HARBOUR, situated in the middle of the bight which is formed between the N. E. and N.W. points of Formosa, appears not to have been known to European navigators, until Lieut. G. Parkyn's, of the Royal Navy, in command of the ship Merope, of Calcutta, on a trading voyage, explored this inlet, and made a survey of the harbour, in September 1824. The entrance of the harbour, which is about ½ a mile wide, may be easily known by the bold island of Killon Khid, about 4 miles directly off it; and it is formed on the west side by high craggy land, and on the east side by a rocky island with a few trees and shrubs in the centre. The soundings in the middle of the entrance are from 12 to 14 fathoms, de-

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creasing a little towards the coral banks which line the shores on each side: a little way inside, on the western side, there is a bight or cove, called M EROPE'S BAY, where the ship of this name lay ten days, and procured good water and refreshments. The anchorage in this bay, is in from 8 or 9 to 5 fathoms, nearest to the coral bank that lines the north shore. The inner harbour, called KILLON HARBOUR, by Capt. Parkyn's, is about a mile to the South of Merope's Bay, and the coral reefs project a great way from the shores on each side, in the space between them; and the soundings decrease to 4 and 3 fathoms at the entrance of the inner harbour, which is at the S.W. corner of the inlet; the anchorage here, is in 4 or 5 fathoms sand and mud, nearly land-locked, and safe for small vessels, where the Merope lay twelve days. Killon Town is about a mile to the S.W. of the anchorage, but the channel up to it is very shoal. At Killon Harbour, the natives were civil, and the fresh water was found to be of good quality; but at Ty-wan, and the S. W. part of Formosa, the water procured by the Merope, was brackish.

Geo. Site of other Isles.

The islands Hoa-pin-su, and Ty-ao-yu-su, are situated to the eastward, the former in lat. 25° 44′ N., lon. 123° 32′ E., the other about 5 or 6 leagues farther to the N. E., and there are several clusters of rocks between them. These two isles are steep to approach, and may be considered a part of the Lieu-chew Islands.

Pehoe Islands.

Geo. Site.

Soundings irregular near them.

Geo. Site of High Island.

and of an extensive bank of soundings.

PEHOE, or PESCADORE ISLANDS, consist of an extensive group of islands of various sizes, several of them chained together by reefs: there is good anchorage under some of them, in moderate depths from 6 to 12, or 15 fathoms; with very irregular soundings, of 20 to 40 fathoms around the whole. The largest island is in about lat. 23° 32′ N., lon.119° 40′ E., situated nearly in the middle of the group: on the West side of this island there is a good harbour, formed between it and Fisher's Island, which fronts it on that side, and the channel to enter it, is on the South side of the latter. The large island is called Pehoe or Ponghou, and there are several villages on it, with a fort and garrison of Tartar soldiers, it being subject to the Chinese Government. This group of islands extends from lat. 23° 8′ N. in a North direction to lat. 23° 56′ N., and the northern extremity consists of islets, rocks, and coral reefs. Although they are 10 leagues distant from the West coast of Formosa, the channel is considerably contracted by the sand banks which front this coast, and those of Ponkan River. The Pescadore Islands lie 45 leagues to the eastward of the Lamock Islands, on the coast of China; and in this track, the soundings to the S. Westward of the former are very irregular, as overfalls from 30 to 8 fathoms, are found upon some shoal banks in the vicinity of those islands. The Eliza got upon a bank, with 5, 6, and 7 fathoms regular soundings on it; and afterward, she saw High Island, the S. Westernmost of the Pehoe group, situated in lat. 23° 14′ N., lon. 119° 26′ E., and found the bank to bear West from that island. There is also uneven ground and overfalls between these islands and Formosa, with an extensive bank of irregular soundings from 24 to 10 fathoms, the S. E. extremity of which is in lat. 22° 52′ N., lon. 119° 23′ E.

Capt. Ross, got on a bank of irregular soundings in lat. 22° 46′ N., lots. 118° 55′ E., extending to the southward of the Pescadore Islands, where they had 20 fathoms; and the least water found, was on a ridge of coarse gravel, near to which the Discovery anchored in the night, and the boats found no less than 7 fathoms water; lat. 22° 51′ N. by an observation of the Pole Star, lon. 119° 1′ E. The ridges of coarse sand or gravel appeared to extend in a North and South direction, with fine sands between them.

The Discovery anchored in 13 fathoms sand and shells about 1½ mile off High Island, with it bearing from S. 24½° E. to S. 79° E., a town on the largest island, named Pauk-foo, by the natives, bore N. 35° E. distant about 8 miles. The Western Islands were two high black rocks distant about 5 miles, bearing N. 37° W. There were many rocks visible to the eastward, and some shoal spots breaking between the vessel and the town.

High Island is inhabited and cultivated, of moderate height, flat at the top, with high

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rocky cliffs, may be seen about 6 leagues in clear weather, and from its western side a reef extends about a mile.

Whilst on the bank of soundings in the vicinity of these islands, tides were experienced setting all round the compass in 24 hours.

Islands to the N. East ward of Formosa.

A CHAIN of ISLANDS of various sizes, extends from Formosa in an easterly and N. Easterly direction to the southern extremity of the Japan Archipelago, and are comprehended under two groups or divisions.

Geo. Site of the pat-chow Islands.

PAT-CHOW, or EIGHT ISLANDS (although said to be 17 in number), form the westernmost of these divisions, being nearest to the East coast of Formosa; and they are called Madjicosemah Islands by the inhabitants. The southernmost of them, in lat. 24° 6′ N., lon. 123° 52′ E. by chronometer, is a low flat island, detached about 4 leagues from the others; and the western extremity of the large islands of the Pat-chow Chain, bears from it N.W. by N. 4 or 5 leagues, which is a high bluff point in lat. 24° 17′ N., lon. 123° 45′ E. About 4½ miles W. ½ N. from this point, lies the island Komi, in lat. 24° 25′ N., lon. 123° 5′ E., situated nearly half way between the point and Formosa, and is about 3 or 4 miles in extent: although so much detached from the others, this island may be considered as the westernmost of the Pat-chow, or Madjicosemah Islands.

The eastern extremity of the Pat-chow Chain, in lat. 24° 42′ N., lon. 125° 36′ E., is formed by Ty-pin-san, a large island, with a smaller one off its West end; these are fronted on the North side by an extensive reef, projecting about 5½ leagues from them. The Providence, surveying vessel, in 1797, was wrecked on the northern edge of this reef, in lat. 25° 6′ N., lon. 125° 11′ E. Between the eastern and western groups of these islands, there is thought to be a clear passage: These islands are tributary to Great Lieu-chew: after the loss of the Providence, Capt. Broughton and his crew were treated with great hospitality by the inhabitants of Ty-pin-san, who supplied their schooner with water and refreshments, to carry them to Macao.

Geo. Site of Lieu-chew.

GREAT LIEU-CHEW, LOO-CHOO, or LEOO-KEOO, the largest island of the other division of the chain, is of considerable size, and well inhabited, who have a number of junks employed trading to Japan, and to Amoy on the coast of China.

This island was visited by H. M. ships Alceste, and Lyra, in 1816, when Lord Amherst went on the embassy to Pekin; and a survey of its coasts was performed by Capt. Basil Hall of the Lyra, who found it to extend between lat. 26° 4¾′-and 26° 52½′ N., and between lon. 127° 34′ and 128° 18′ E. being nearly 60 miles long in a N. E. direction, and preserving a tolerably uniform breadth of about 10 or 12 miles. The north end is high and bold, with wood on the top of the hills: the N. E. coast is also abrupt, but quite barren, and the N.W. side is usually rugged and bare. The S. E. side is low, with very little appearance of cultivation: the South, S.W., and Western coasts, particularly the two former, are of moderate height, and present a scene of great fertility and high cultivation; and here the mass of population are found.

Napakiang Road.

Napakiang Road, in lat. 26° 13½′ N., on the S.W. side of the island, is formed by reefs which surround it, having two passages leading into it, one from the northward, and the other from the westward, which is the best, having irregular soundings of 8 to 15 fathoms water, and the depths are from 11 to 9 fathoms to the anchorage in the road, which is about a large mile to the eastward of the outer reefs; and the town of Napakiang, is about a mile S. Eastward from the anchorage, having the King's Palace about 1½ jmile to the eastward of the town.

Port Melville.

Port Melville, lies near the N.W. part of the island, the entrance of which is in lat. 26° 43′ N., formed on the eastern side by Herbert's Island; and on the western side, by the reef

C c c 2

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that fronts a peninsula which projects 5 or 6 miles to the westward, having a small isle, called Sugar Loaf Island, near its extremity; and on the South side of the peninsula, lies Deep Bay, having no soundings with 100 fathoms line in it, at a small distance from the shore. The entrance into Port Melville is about S. E. by S., along the western side of Herbert's Island, until abreast of the S.W. point of this island, when two conspicuous round black rocks will be seen off the point forming the S. E. side of the harbour, and the outermost of these rocks should be kept on with the top of a distant double topped hill bearing S. E. by S. till the harbour opens; then haul up about S. S.W., and steer close along the eastern shore, in 7, 6, 5, and 4½ fathoms. The village will soon show itself on the western side, and when past the narrowest part, a birth may be selected at pleasure. The distant high hill, stated as one of the leading marks, is not the highest, but the second highest of the range.*

Near the middle of the eastern side of Great Loo-Cboo, there is a deep inlet, called Barrow's Bay, bounded by shoals, and the S. Eastern coast is mostly fronted by isles and coral shoals, destitute of any safe place of shelter.

The rise of tide is about 9 feet perpendicular on the springs; high water at 9 hours on full and change of the moon. Variation of the compass, determined with great care by Capt. Basil Hall, with the transit instrument, was 0° 52′ Westerly, in 1816.

The Lieu-chew Islands, produce rice and other grain, coarse tea, and it is said they work copper mines: they are considered to be tributary in some degree to the Chinese Empire.

To the northward of Great Loo-Choo, other straggling islands of the group or chain, extend in a N. N. E. and northerly direction, to lat.27° 34′ N.

Geo. site of Other Islands.

The westernmost islands of the Lieu Chew division, are in lat. 26° 10′ to 26° 20′ N., lon. 127° 8′ East, and there are other small islands about 30 leagues farther to the N. Westward. A little to the eastward of a line passing from Lieu-Chew to the southernmost of the Japan Islands, there are others, four of which form a group, in lat. 29° 30′ to 29° 40′ N., lon. 128° 15′ to 128° 20′ E. Meaxima, is a considerable island, nearly S.W. from Nanga-Saque Harbour, and its central lat. is 31° 55′ N.

Japan Islands.

Geo. Site of Nanga saque Harbour.

JAPAN ISLANDS, are very extensive, and at their S. Western extremity, on the Island Kinsui, is situated NANGA-SAQUE HARBOUR, in lat. 32° 43′ 40″ N, lon. 129° 52′ 72″ E.,† which is very safe, the anchorage in 5 or 6 fathoms, is sheltered from all winds. From Cape Gotto, in lat. 32° 34′ 50″ N., lon. 128° 44′ E., the entrance of Nanga-Saque Harbour bears E. by N. 51 miles, and from the easternmost of the Gotto Islands it is only about the distance of 10 or 11 leagues.

Cape Nomo, the southern point of Nanga-Saque Bay, is in lat. 32° 35′ N., lon. 129° 42½′ E., and there is a false entrance in lat. 32° 40′ which may be easily mistaken for the true one, and although it really leads to Nanga-Saque, might prove dangerous, having never been explored.

The entrance of the harbour, is also difficult to discover, owing to the proximity of the main land to the Island Cavallos, which forms the western shore of the entrance; so that it may easily be missed, if you are not certain of the latitude, and do not keep a good look out.

Captain Fleetwood Pellew, who touched at Nanga-Saque in October, 1808, in H. M. S. Phæton, gives the following instructions to strangers, who intend to approach, or to sail into the harbour.

* A ship intending to touch at this place, or at Napakiang, should, if possible, procure Capt. Hall's description of Great Loo-Choo, in the quarto edition, which has charts and plans of his surveys.

† The above geographical situation of the centre of Nanga-Saque City, is by mean of 1028 lunar distances taken in 1804, by Captain, now Admiral Krusenstern, and Dr. Horner the Astronomer, in the first voyage of circumnavigation, performed by Russian officers. Captain Torry, in 1803, made this city in lat. 32° 45′ N., lon. 130° 15′ E. Capt. F. Pellew, at the outer anchorage, in H. M. S. Phæton, in 1808, near Passenburgh Island, with the city bearing N. E. about 4 miles, observed in lat. 32° 43′ 50″ N., lon. 130° 10′ E. by two observations of moon and stars, and about 129° 58′ E. by chronometers.

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Sailing directions.

Those who are unacquainted with Nanga-saque Harbour, should make the land to the northward in lat. 32° 47′ or 32° 48′ N. as the N. E. trade wind blows very constantly here, greatest part of the year. Having made the land in this latitude, you may run along shore at 2 or 3 miles distance, as it is steep and bold to approach, and by doing so, it will be almost impossible to miss the harbour. Whereas, being doubtful of the accuracy of the charts, and not perceiving the separation of Cavallos Island from the main, we were nearly missing it in the Phæton, and our mistake was discovered, by seeing Dutch colours hoisted on the island as a signal by the Japanese.

By making the land in lat. 32° 48′ N., you will be about 3 miles to leeward of some islands of rugged aspect, one of which is perfectly barren, and formed like a sugar loaf, and the largest of them forms a high ridge of rugged rocks: from hence to the island at the entrance of Nanga-saque Bay, there is no danger, and the course is S. E. about 9 or 10 miles. If close in with the shore, the southern extremity seen, will be a high bluff point, with some rocky islets off it; this point is about 7 miles to leeward of the entrance, and was mistaken by us for the East side of the entrance, and in steering for it the real entrance was discovered: care should be taken not to fall to leeward, as the fresh N. E. winds would render it difficult to beat back to the harbour.

On the bluff point last mentioned, there is a watch house with a curious roof, and on a small island about 3 miles to the northward of it there is another, but this is situated lower than the first; a third is on the middle of Cavallos, and here the Dutch colours were displayed, Attention to these marks, will prevent any mistake, and a farther guide is, a remarkable high hill at a considerable distance inland, having upon it a remarkable rise or hump, the land of square form, resembling a tower, and this hill is directly over Nangasaque.

After rounding the point of Cavallos, Passenburgh, and several small islands near it, which form the Inner Entrance of the harbour, will be plainly seen, also a reef called the Bone Roaster, close to the islands on the western side; these must all be left to starboard, and the main land of Kinsui must be borrowed on, steering direct for the outer islet outside of Passenburgh, which islet is rugged and rocky, with a few straggling trees on it, which you may leave on the larboard hand within ½ a cable's length, and will have no bottom with the hand-lead. There are also some islets on the other side, that cannot easily be mistaken for those off Passenburgh, which must all be left on the larboard hand, and those on the eastern side must be left to starboard, there being no passage within them. When round Passenburgh, the town and harbour open to view, the latter turning suddenly to N. N.W., forms a deep and spacious bay. Passenburgh, is a high round island covered with trees, resembling the English fir; to the eastward nearly opposite to Passenburgh, a small town will be seen in a paled enclosure.

From the outer anchorage, where the Phaeton lay, Passenburgh Island bore N. 77° W., distant ¾ of a mile, and the city N. 44° E. about 4 miles.

This, and the Port of Firando, about 12 or 16 leagues farther to the northward, were formerly frequented by English ships; but Europeans have not been permitted to trade to these ports, for a considerable period; excepting the Dutch, who have hitherto been indulged with the privilege of trading to Nanga-saque, and allowed to keep a mercantile resident there.* The Russian circumnavigator, Captain Krusenstern, on his voyage of discovery, touched here,

* The ship Frederic, of Calcutta, Capt. James Tony, having, a cargo selected for that purpose, touched at Nanga-saque, in September,1803, with a view of opening a trade with the Japan Islands: this was not permitted, and of course, the voyage proved unsuccessful, for Captain Torry was equally unfortunate in attempting to trade among the Lieu-chew Islands, although it had been supposed, that the inhabitants of these islands were inclined to trade with foreign ships.

The English officers who lately went from Batavia to Nanga-saque, on a voyage of commercial enterprise, when the former place was under the British Government, seem to have been much better treated by the Japanese, than any Europeans had been for a long period before.

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and obtained a supply of provision and refreshments. The variation in 1804, was 1° 52½′ Westerly. High water at 7 hours 52 minutes on full and change of the moon, rise of the tide 10 or 11 feet, in April.

Geo. Site of South Island;

SOUTH ISLAND, in lat. 31° 30′ N., lon. 140° 0′ E., by chronometer, lies a great way to the E. S. Eastward of Nanga-saque; it is moderately elevated, not of great extent, and is one of the southernmost islands of the Japan Chain; but other straggling isles, very imperfectly known, stretch 4° or 5° more to the East and S. Eastward, in lat. 30° to 31½° N.

and other Islands.

The brig Nile, of Boston, Capt. Forties, in her passage from Canton to the Sandwich Islands, in August, 1825, passed two islands, the southernmost in lat. 25° 42′ N., lon. 131° 13′ E.; and the northern one in lat. 25° 53′ N., lon. 131° 17′ E. by good observations, and two chronometers, Capt. Forbes, saw also the high peaked rock, called Ormsbus Peak, which he made in lat. 29° 41′ N., lon. 140° 23′ E., and when within ½ a mile of this rock, the island Todos los Sanctos, bore North.

Exclusive of many straggling islands, situated to the East and S. Eastward of the Japan Chain, several of which have been seen by the whalers that frequent those seas, there is said to exist, a group of islands of considerable extent, known to the Japanese, but hitherto obscured from the knowledge of Europeans, although the existence of this group seems to be very doubtful.

To sailfrom Macao toward the N. W. coast of America, or toward New South Wales.

SHIPS bound from Canton River to the N.W. coast of America, or to New South Wales, generally pass out between the South end of Formosa and Luconia, then to the southward of the Pat-chow, and Lieu-chew Islands, and they sometimes get a sight of these, or South Island, particularly when proceeding to the eastward in the N. E. monsoon. In this season, the passage is frequently very tedious, from the prevalence of easterly winds, and blowing weather, in the vicinity of those islands. Ships proceeding to New South Wales, when clear of the islands, are obliged to keep to the northward of lat. 30° N., to avoid the N. E. trade, and make up their easting; and as the trade wind often hangs between E. by. N. and E. by S., so that no easting of consequence can be made in crossing it, they ought to get into about lon. 165° to 170° East, before they stand to the South of lat. 30° N., to enter the limit of the steady trade.

To proceed to the latter place by the Western Passage.

It therefore appears, that much stormy weather will be avoided, and a quicker passage made to New South Wales; by ships which sail from Canton River between September and February, if they proceed through the China Sea, and pass to the eastward of the Grand Natuna, and by the Carimata Passage, along the West side of Borneo. From hence they should steer for the East end of Madura, and proceed to the southward through the Straits of Bally, Lombock, or Allass, of which the latter will generally be found the most convenient. When clear of these straits, every advantage must be taken with the shifts of wind to get to the southward; and as it generally prevails in this season between S. by W. and S. S. E., from thence to the limit of the steady S. E. trade, they may be obliged to run considerably to the S.Westward, before they get through it, into a high southern latitude. But when this is accomplished, they will be enabled to run down the easting speedily, with westerly and variable winds. In March, or early in April, they may either proceed through Bass Strait, or keep well to the southward, and pass round Cape Van Diemen, at a moderate distance; because easterly winds frequently prevailing in Bass Strait, during these months, are liable to cause some delay to ships proceeding through it to the eastward, but at all other times, Bass Strait ought to be preferred, when circumstances are favorable, being the shortest route.

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INSTRUCTIONS for SAILING THROUGH BALABAC STRAITS, to the MOLUCCAS, to SOOLOO, and the ISLANDS DESCRIBED.

SURIGAO PASSAGE, EMBOCADERO, AND EAST COAST OF LUCONIA.

To sail through Balabac Straits toward the Moluccas Islands.

SHIPS sailing from MALACCA STRAIT, in August or September, bound to Amboina, or to the Banda Islands, will probably make the best passage, by proceeding on the South side of the Anatnbas, and Great Natuna Island; then between the Royal Charlotte and ends. Louisa Shoals, or to the southward of the latter, observing to give a birth to the shoals adjacent to the Borneo Coast. They must be careful, however, not to fall to leeward of Balambangan, for S.W. winds, and northerly currents, prevail in August, September, and part of October. Having rounded the North end of that island and Banguey, pretty close, and being clear of Balabac Strait, they should proceed through among the Sooloo Islands, and round the North end of Celebes, then by the Molucco Passage to the southward. If before September, they may keep to the eastward, and pass through Dampier's Strait, or the Gillolo Passage.

If in an indifferent sailing ship, the season become too late to adopt the Palawan Passage, when bound to China, (which, can seldom happen) she may proceed through Balabac Strait, and on the South side of Mindanao, into the Pacific Ocean, or by any other passage which seems advisable.

Balabac Straits.

BALABAC STRAITS, formed between the South end of that island, and the North ends of the islands Banguey and Balambangan, have three channels; those near Balabac are intricate, and seldom used, the channel adjoining to Banguey being preferable. There is also a channel to the northward of Balabac Island; and another between the North end of Borneo and the islands Balambangan, Banguey, and Mallawalle; either of which, with proper care, may be used in a case of necessity.

Geo. Site of Keeney Balloo.

In approaching these straits from the westward, KEENEY BALLOO, or KINIBALU, may be seen if the weather is clear,* it being a very high mountain, inland, on Borneo, situated in lat. 6° 3′ to 6 7′ N., lon. 116° 40′ E., or 12° 5½′ East from Pulo Aor, and bears S. 6° W from the North harbour of Balambangan. When bearing to the S. Eastward, it appears in the form of a wedge, with the highest end to the westward, and has been frequently seen at the distance of 40 to 42 leagues. Tanjong Sampanmangio, the North point of Borneo, distant about 18 leagues to the northward of Keeney Balloo, is in about 7° 3′ N., and 4 leagues to the S.W. of the South point of Balambangan. Betwixt that point and Tanjong Inaroontang, another point of Borneo, about 7 or 8 leagues to the eastward, the Great Bay of Malloodoo stretches inland a great way to the southward, having regular soundings and moderate depths, with good anchorage in most places; but there is no inducement for a ship to touch here, or at any of the bays on the N.W. or N. E. coasts of Borneo, the natives being inhospitable and perfidious. The Mornington, at anchor in 9 fathoms mud, about 2½ miles from the shore at the head of the bay of Malloodoo, had Keeney Balloo bearing S. 23° W., and the extremes of the bay from N. 5° E. to N. 33° E. There is a shoal with only 2 feet water on it, near the middle of the bay, about 6 miles from the nearest shore, which is not generally known. The variation in 1822, to the westward of Balabac Straits, in lat. 7° 10′ N., lo. 115° 30′ E. was 1° 25′ Easterly.

* It has also been seen from ships to the eastward, when near Cagayan Sooloo. Cart. Ross, makes this mountain in lon. 116° 40′ E.

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Island Banguey, Geo. Site of the Peak.

BANGUEY, is a considerable island, extending about 6 or 6½ leagues N. E. and S.W., having on the N.W. part near the sea, a conical peak, which is a good mark when near these islands, for it may be seen 14 or 15 leagues, and is situated in lat. 7° 19′ N., lon. 117° 6′ E. by chronometers. There are many islets contiguous to Banguey, on the East, North, and South sides. Ships in want of water, may pass to the southward of Balambangan, and anchor with Banguey Peak N. N. E., about 1½ mile off the mouth of a river bearing East, where fresh water may be got with facility, there being depth sufficient on the bar of the river, for a long boat. This has been already mentioned in describing the Palawan Passage, under the title "China Sea;" but care must be taken to have the boats armed, for the crew of the Betsy schooner, (after that vessel was wrecked on a shoal in the China Sea, in November, 1805), landed on Banguey in their boat, and escaped from thence with difficulty, the commander and part of the crew having been killed by a party of roving Malays, who at first pretended to be hospitable.

Island Balambangan,

BALAMBANGAN, or BALAMBANG ISLAND,* is nearly 5 leagues in length N. E. and S.W., separated at the N. E. part from Banguey, by a channel about a league in breadth; the southern part of the island is pretty high, but it is rather low to the northward, having two harbours on the East side. These harbours are lined by shoals, and several are interspersed over the North harbour, which is the largest; the shoals are generally visible from the mast-head in favorable weather. A settlement formed here by the English above 60 years ago, was surprised and cut off by the Malays soon after; it was re-settled in October, 1803, but the establishment being expensive, without any prospect of real advantage, the settlement was soon withdrawn. The South channel leading to these harbours is safe, with soundings mostly from 16 to 23 fathoms off the South end of the island, and betwixt it and Banguey; and the soundings continue regular, when steering from thence to the southward, into Malloodoo Bay, mostly soft bottom.

The North channel is narrow and intricate, bordered by shoals, with the island Mangoak nearly in the middle of it, which is surrounded by a reef, projecting a great way out to the S. E., Northward, and N. E.; it is called also Tonier, or Tiger Isle, is low and sandy in the centre, and on either side there is a passage. That betwixt it and Banguey, has from 10 to 7 fathoms water in mid-channel; the other contiguous to Balambangan, has from 7, to 5 or 4 fathoms, and either of them may be used occasionally, as the wind or circumstances require, but the eastern passage is considered safest. If obliged to work through, short tacks should be made, and a trusty person kept at the mast-head to look out for green water; this ought not to be neglected, in sailing through any of the channels in the neighbourhood of these islands.

sailing directions.

In working through the channel betwixt Tiger Isle and Banguey, the Mornington stood within ¼ mile of the latter in some places, to 4 or 4½ fathoms water; she had 7 fathoms close to the edge of the reef that surrounds Tiger Island, and generally 5 fathoms in mid-channel. There are some shoal detached spots in the channel, which is narrowest when Tiger Island is on with the North part of Balambangan; then, overfalls may be experienced from 4 to 7 fathoms. After tacking in 5 fathoms on the Banguey side, she had overfalls, and grounded in 2 fathoms coral rock, with the N.W. point of Banguey bearing South, the Peak S. 61½° E., North point of Balambangan Harbour S. 49° W., off Banguey ¾ of a mile.

In passing through the other channel, betwixt Tiger Isle and Balambangan, the shoals will be visible on each side from the mast-head, when in mid-channel; and from the deck, when near them, if the weather be clear.

Balambangan Island has a reef dry at low water, projecting 3 or 4 miles off its North extremity, very dangerous to approach in the night, for the water deepens with overfalls in its proximity.

* By the Malays, called Berobangau.

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Geo. Site.

The North Harbour of Balambangan is in lat. 7° 16′ N., lon. 116° 58′ E., or 14° 43′ East from Malacca by good chronometers. The best time to enter it, is near low water, for the shoals are generally conspicuous at that time. Within ½ a mile of the South end of Balambangan, there are two small isles.

Balabac Island.

BALABAC ISLAND, bearing North from the opening between Banguey and Balambangan, distant about 10 leagues, is of considerable height, extending North and South nearly 5 leagues. A sharp peaked hill in lat. 7° 59′ N. near the middle of the island, is the highest part; and near the South end, on the East side, there is shelter in a bay, called Dalawan, which has reefs projecting from the points that form the entrance.

To sail through a channel to the northward of it.

If a ship bound through Balabac Strait, fall accidentally to leeward in the S.W. monsoon, and find difficulty in beating to the South, toward the entrance of the proper strait, she may proceed through the passage to the northward of Balabac. Giving this island a birth of 4 or 5 miles, and having a distinct view of its North end, a small island will be seen, with a dangerous reef extending front its North end, in a N.W. direction between it and Balabac. Keep the latter about ½ a mile distant, with an officer, or trusty person at the mast-head, and steer eastward for two isles nearly of equal size: off the North end of the southernmost, there is danger, but every fathom of decrease in depth, may be discerned from the mast-head, if the weather is clear. Pass in mid-channel, which at first entering between these isles, lies E. S. E. or S. E. by E.: when clear of them, a group of islets will be perceived; do not approach these islets, for an E. S. E. ½ S. course with a leading wind, is as far to the southward as can be steered with propriety, until a ship has run 5 leagues to the eastward after clearing the passage.* She may then haul to the southward at discretion, with the lead kept going, and a good look out: taking care not to get to the eastward near St. Michael's Shoals, which are in about lat. 7° 43′ N., steep to, and very dangerous.

The channel nearest to Balabac, on the South side, is by keeping near the reef that stretches along its South and S.W. sides, until the southern extremity of the island bear about W. by S., then the course is East, between two isles surrounded by reefs, in a channel about 3 or 4 miles wide: but this channel is seldom used by any ship.

Middle Channel of Balabac Straits.

MIDDLE CHANNEL, is formed on the North side by the two small isles Loomboocan and Candalamar, which lie to the S. Eastward of Balabac, and the former or southernmost, is sometimes called the Rabbit, and the other the Coney. This channel is bounded on the South side by the small isle Salingsingan, and shoals or reefs to the northward of it: there is a large reef several miles to the southward of Loomboocan, betwixt which, and that isle, is said to be the best passage; for there is another intricate passage to the southward of the reef, between it and other dangers near to Salingsingan.

This middle channel, is now seldom used; although the soundings are generally from 17 to 23 fathoms, sandy bottom, ships are liable at times, to experience sudden overfalls, of 5 and 4½ fathoms, upon coral patches near the edges of the dangers that surround the channel.

South Channel,

Mangsee Islands.

Gse. site.

SOUTH CHANNEL of Balabac Straits, is now justly preferred to any of the others, having good anchoring ground from 18 to 25 fathoms, about 4 or 5 miles off the North ends of Balambangan and Banguey. It is bounded on the South side by a shoal and five islets adjoining to the north-east end of Banguey, the outermost of which is called Passage Island, or Goohooan. On the North side, it is bounded by the two small Mangsee Islands, which

* The ships Aurora and Commerce, (part of a fleet with troops and stores, proceeding to form a settlement at Balambangan) fell to leeward, and went through this passage to the northward of Balabac, September 23d, 1803. The Anstruther, one of the transports, (a very fine ship) was wrecked upon one of the shoals to the N. Eastward of Salingsingan Island, and many of the troops perished. The Thornhill, another of these ships, was wrecked on the reef that extends to the westward of the Mangsee Islands.

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are in lat. 7° 32′ N., lon. 117° 19′ E., distant 8 or 9 miles N. by E. from the N. E. point of Banguey; having a reef extending a little to the southward, and round to W. by N. and W. S. W. from the southernmost island, to the distance of nearly 3 leagues. The Salingsingan islet, or northernmost of the Mangsee Isles, is 3 or 4 miles to the northward of the other two mentioned above: these three isles are in a line bearing N. N.W., and seem to be connected by reefs.

Directions to sail through the channel.

If coming from the West toward this channel or strait, be careful not to fall to leeward in the S. W. monsoon; soundings of 50 to 60 fathoms will be got about 11 or 12 leagues to the westward of Balambangan. The North end of this island, and of Banguey, (which bear about East and West of each other) should be approached within 5 miles, for there seems to be no shoal water beyond 2 or 3 miles of the North end of Balambangan. Steering E. by N. along Banguey, at the distance of 5 or 6 miles, the Mangsee Isles will soon appear bearing about E. N. E.; keep rather nearer to Banguey, than to the reef that extends from these islands to the westward about 3 leagues, which is very conspicuous by its light green colour, contrasting the dark blue deep water around. The soundings through, are irregular, from 7, to 14 and 17 fathoms, over a corally bottom; and if the Banguey shore is approached within 3 or 4 miles, the water may probably shoal to 6 fathoms, or less.

When the Mangsee Isles bear N. N. E., and steering East, a small sand bank encircled by a reef, will soon be seen bearing about E. S. E., which lies 2 or 3 miles from Passage Island; it ought to be passed on the North side at more than 2 miles distance, in not less than 8 fathoms water.

COMING from the eastward, the Mangsee Isles should not be brought to the northward of N. N.W. until within 3 miles of them, then you may edge away gradually, giving them a birth of 2 or 3 miles: when they are brought to bear North, steer S.W. by W., which will keep you in a good channel between the reef on the northern side and the Banguey shore, if not affected by oblique tides or currents. Proceeding along the Banguey shore at 5 or 6 miles distance, when Banguey Point bears South, steer out to the westward, being clear of the dangers in the channel.

and from thence eastward.

Geo. Site of St. Michael's Islands, and Shoals.

Toob Bataha.

Having cleared this strait, if bound to China or Manilla, late in October or November, or at any other time, steer eastward for the West coast of Mindanao, for the track near the East side of Palawan, is little known, and thought to be interspersed with shoals. Therefore, pass to the southward of the three small islands, called St. Michael's, or Manook-manookan, Bangcawang, and Bancooraan, which extend from about lat. 7° 42′ N., to 7° 50′ N., lon. 118° 40′ E., and bear nearly North from Cagayan Sooloo. The extensive shoals which stretch 5 or 6 leagues to the westward of these islands, called St. Michael's Shoals, have many rocks appearing above water, and ought to be avoided; also the Toob Bataha, in about lat. 8° N., which is a bank partly dry with a contiguous rock, situated about 15 or 16 leagues to the eastward of these three islands. Having reached the West coast of Mindanao, keep near to it, and to the same sides of Negroes Island, Panay, Mindora, and Luconia, particularly if N. E. winds be expected to prevail.

To sail toward Cagayan Sooloo.

Ships bound to Sooloo, after clearing Balabac Strait, steer to pass near Cagayan Sooloo, on the South side; but the course ought not to be more southerly than E. by S. ½ S., till 7 or 8 leagues clear of the strait, because several ships have got upon shoal coral patches of 5 or 6 fathoms, when steering about E. S. E.; and nearer to the Borneo shore, there are some reefs of rocks above water. With Banguey Peak bearing W. ½ N., distant about 8 or 9 leagues, the Fly, in 1796, shoaled suddenly to 4 fathoms coral, and deepened fast to 22 fathoms steering to the northward. Shortly after, she had 5½ fathoms on another patch of coral; so that a good look out, is indispensable in this track. It was probably on these banks that the Minstrel sounded, June 23d, 1822, with Banguey Peak bearing W. ½ N., distant 7 or 8 leagues, she had 5 fathoms, then 17 fathoms no ground; steered W. N.W.

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3½ miles, and crossed over another shoal, with Banguey Peak bearing West, in 4, 3¾ fathoms, then 5, 9, 12, 15, 17 fathoms, then no ground.

Geo. Site.

Circumjacent isles.

Sandakan Harbour on Borneo.

CAGAYAN SOOLOO, in lat. 7° 0′ N., lon. 118° 36′ E., or 1° 30′ E. from Banguey Peak by chronometer, is an island of considerable size, and may be discerned at the distance of 7 or 8 leagues. There are several islets to the northward, and two to the southward near it, called Mooleegee Isles, one of which has the form of a saddle, and it is in lat. 6° 54′ N.; a ship may occasionally anchor near them, as they are safe to approach. Between the South end of Cagayan Sooloo and the two Mooleegee Isles, there is a safe channel 5 or 6 miles wide. About 9 or 10 leagues to the southward of Cagayan Sooloo, the small island Mambahenawan is situated; and to the West, and S. Westward, there are soundings of 20 to 30 fathoms, contiguous to the small islands which are scattered along the coast of Borneo. There are several deep bays on the N. E. side of Borneo, with good anchorage in some of them. SANDAKAN Bay is one of these, and contains three excellent harbours inside: Bahalatolis Island, in lat. 5° 54′ N. forms the entrance, and has plenty of good spring water on it; these harbours will contain any number of ships, well sheltered, in from 7 or 8, to 4 fathoms. The islands about the harbours, abound with good water, and the surrounding country with teak, poon, and camphor trees, fit for ship building; there are also rattans and bamboos; the tide rises 8 or 9 feet. The Sooloo people have a settlement here.

Geo. Site of Pangootaran, with sailing directions to sooloo.

PANGOOTARAN, in lat. 6° 15′ N., lon. 120° 40′ E., bearing E. by S. ¾ S. from Cagayan Sooloo, distant about 44 leagues, is the N. Westernmost island of the Sooloo Archipelago; it being low and level, little more than the trees are visible above water. Having proceeded from Cagayan Sooloo, and approached to the South end of Pangootaran, there is a good passage between it and Oobeean, the next island to the southward, although without soundings; nor is any found in the direct track from Cagayan Sooloo. Keep nearest to Pangootaran in passing through, and from hence, the island Sooloo may be seen, the road of which is at the N.W. end of the island, and bears E. S. E. about 11 leagues from the South end of Pangootaran; but a S. E. by E. course should be steered past the small island Oosadda, situated to the eastward of Oobean, and continued until within 4 or 5 miles of the land to the westward of Sooloo Town. This course is requisite, to avoid the race of Takoot Kababawan, situated near the West point of the island Palleeangan, on the North side of the channel; which is said to have only 4 fathoms water on it, and there are no soundings a little to the southward. At noon the observed lat. 6° 15′ N., when a long reef of black rocks bore S. E. ½ S., centre of Oobean S. by E. ½ E., Oosadda S.W. nearly in mid-channel; this reef seems very dangerous, extending about N. E. and S.W., and the rocks just appearing above water, with breakers on them at times.

If you leave Cagayan Sooloo in the evening, with a fresh breeze, during the northerly monsoon, steer more northerly than the direct course, to avoid the above-mentioned reef, as you are liable to have a southerly current, and do not run for Pangootaran with its South extreme East of you.

Captain Piddington remarks, that ships bound to Sooloo, should be careful to give a birth to the steep low shores of the adjacent islands, because a crank ship would risk being overset by the severe N.W. squalls, if she had not room to bear away from them.

Coming from the westward, the proper channel is between Oobeean and Pangootaran, and care is requisite to keep well to the southward, during the S.W. monsoon, as the currents run strong to the northward along the West sides of these islands; much time might, therefore, be lost, working to the southward, if the South extreme of Pangootaran be not kept bearing to the northward of East: nor should large ships ever proceed through amongst the islands to the N. Eastward of Pangootaran, as rapid tides of 6 miles per hour, prevail on the springs; and the apparently widest channel, between the North point of Pandookan and the

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South point of Koolasian, is barred up by a reef of black rocks, lying on a bed of white sand, having only from 6 to 9 feet water over the rocks, with 3 and 4 fathoms in the gaps between them.

The gut between Pangootaran and Pandookan is very narrow, with deep water.

Geo. Site of Sooloo.

SOOLOO TOWN, or SOON G, in lat. 6° 1′ N., lon. 121° 12′ E., is the residence of the Rajah of this island, to whom all the islands of this archipelago are subject; likewise the large island Basseelan, from which an annual tribute is collected in pepper, and other articles. The island Sooloo is of considerable height, extending East and West about 10 or 12 leagues. The anchorage in the road, is in 18 or 20 fathoms, on a loose sandy bottom, with the Sultan's house bearing S. 26° E., Mount Temontangis S. 26° W., Tulean Rock S. 67° W., the S.W. point of Palleeangan N. 60° W., distance off the town 1½ mile. The bottom being indifferent holding ground, ships are liable to drive with N.W. squalls. Bullocks are plentiful here, of good quality, and at a moderate price. Poultry and live stock of all kinds, with abundance of vegetables, and fruits, may be procured; also wood and water. But the inhabitants are a treacherous race, and must be carefully watched; it is not advisable to touch here in a small ship, to procure supplies or to trade, unless well armed, and prepared to resist any attack that may be made by the natives. The fleet from China, in June, 1795, anchored in Toolyan Bay, near the East end of Sooloo, and watered there; then proceeded out by the Tapeantana Channel.

Takoot Paboonoowan Shoal.

If a large ship approach Sooloo Road from N. Eastward, care must be taken to avoid Takoot Paboonoowan Shoal, on which the Swedish ship, Gustavas Adolphus, struck in 1798, where she had only from 3 to 3½ fathoms, and injured her rudder; it. is in lat. 6° 15′ N., distant about 6 leagues nearly N. by W. from the East end of Sooloo, and 5 leagues to the westward of the Duo Bolod, which are two high rocks, nearly mid-way betwixt Sooloo and Basseelan.

To sail from Sooloo to the S. Eastward.

Departing from Sooloo Road, the best track when bound to S. Eastward, is round the West end of the island, then leaving the high island Tapool, and the low islands Talook and Kabingaan to the southward, and Pata with its contiguous isles to the northward. There are soundings mostly through this track, and anchorage between the islands, where a ship may stop tide occasionally; and it is safe working through in the night, if the weather be clear. There seem to be, however, some coral patches hereabout, for the Albion tacked on a rocky spot in 8½ fathoms, the rocks visible under the ship, with the South point of Pata bearing East, the S. E. end of the low island Talook, which lies to the N.W. of Kabingaan S. E. by S., and the westernmost high land of Sooloo N. N.W.

Tides and currents.

The tides set fair through the channel, about E. S. E. and opposite, sometimes very strong; off the West end of Sooloo, they have been found to set N.W. and S. E. in December, about 4 miles per hour. During the N. E. monsoon, there is generally a N.W. or westerly current in the neaps, betwixt Sooloo and Basseelan, and in the track from thence to Balabac Straits. In March and April, the current sets mostly to the eastward among the Sooloo Islands; but it sets to the westward at the same time, in the openings of the Philippine Islands, to the northward of Mindanao.

Betwixt several of the islands to the eastward of Sooloo, there are safe channels, with moderate depths for anchorage; but if any of them are adopted, caution is requisite, for they are little frequented, and reefs project from some of the islands. August 18th, 1821, the Minstrel, Capt. Barnes, having been set to the eastward of Sooloo by the current, passed through between Kapooal and Beeteenau, and had 12½ fathoms the least water in mid-channel.

Tawee-tawee Islands.

TAWEE-TAWEE ISLANDS, forming the S. Western part of the Sooloo Archipelago, extend nearly to the Peninsula of Unsang, the extremity of which forms the N. E. point of

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Borneo. They consist of an immense chain of islands, very imperfectly known, with several dangers among them; particularly on the Pearl Bank, Tahow, which lies in about lat. 6° 44′ N., distant 8 or 9 leagues to the N. N.W. of Tawee-tawee, and 19 leagues to the westward of Sooloo.

Great caution is indispensible, if a ship intend to touch at any of these islands; for very lately, some of the chiefs of Tawee-tawee, enticed a ship to proceed there, under the profession of friendly intercourse, and to trade; but she was soon assailed by these deceitful barbarians, and narrowly escaped being cut off by them.

Another chain of islands, stretch from the Tawee-tawee Islands and from Unsang, a great way out from the coast of Borneo; and the southernmost of them, called Leegetan Islands, in about lat. 4° 20′ N. and 10 leagues off the coast, have several reefs and sand banks around, without any soundings near them.

If a ship sail near these islands, or along the coast of Borneo, great care must be taken to keep a boat a-head sounding in the night. The Laurel from China, bound to Batavia, proceeded by this track in July, 1787, and saw a rock about the size of a boat with breakers on its West end, which is about 2 or 3 leagues to the northward of the small isles Baguan and Taganac, distant 8 leagues from the coast of Borneo. She endeavoured to work close round Unsang, but the winds being light, with a northerly current, obliged her to run along the North side of Tawee-tawee; she then passed between the two islands off its East end, called Sigboye and Tambagaan, in a channel 1½ mile wide, with soundings 15 to 23 fathoms coral rock. When through, she steered E. S. E. to give a birth to a sand bank extending to the northward from a Haycock Island, and passed out into the open sea between two other islands, least water 9½ fathoms in the channel. Breakers were seen to project about 2 miles from the East end of the southernmost island, which lie to the westward of the channel.

Surigao Passage.

SURIGAO PASSAGE, or STRAIT OF PANOAN, formed between Mindanao to the southward, and the other Philippine Islands to the northward, is now seldom or never chosen in any ship, when bound by the eastern passage to China; for it is rendered intricate, by rapid tides, at times, among the numerous islands at the eastern part, and there are no soundings. Besides, it is in too great a latitude to be adopted late in the season, for the islands outside become a lee shore, when the N. E. monsoon sets in.*

To sail through it.

If a ship proceeding to China, have westerly winds when near the western part of this passage, and be carried into it by the current or otherwise, she may proceed through, if October is not far advanced.

The coast of Mindanao is steep and bold, which should be kept pretty close aboard, and a birth given to the two small isles Murcielagos that lie near Point Galera; the course continues along the coast to the E. N. Eastward, between Mindanao and the islands to the northward. Of these, the nearest are Aliguay and Silino, two low woody islands, steep to, on the South sides; and the large islands to the northward will be seen, if the weather is clear. From Point Tagola, which lies to the southward of the island Silino, the coast trends to the southward of East, and forms several bays, but the course is about E. by N. 25 or 26 leagues to Camiguin: this is a high island with a nob on its centre, that may be seen 20 leagues; and being situated near Sipaca Point on Mindanao, the channel is on the outside of the island. Having passed Camiguin, steer to the N. E. for the channel between the North point of Mindanao and Panoan, which is 6 or 8 miles wide, then haul round the S. E. point of Panoan, and proceed to the northward along the East side of the large island Leyte, until a bluff point on it is brought to bear S.W. by W. ½ W. With this bearing of the point, steer on the opposite course or bearing, which will carry you through the channel into the

* The Royal Captain, bound to China, went through this passage, and got clear of the islands, October 8th, 1762, and the London went through it in October, 1764: the former ship experienced rapid tides, at the eastern part of the strait, but the London did not, nor did she meet with any considerable difficulty or danger.

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ocean, between Linago or Passage Island to the southward; and Omonkon, Soloan, and two other small islands to the northward; which channel is wide, and seems clear of danger.

Surigan Village,

Anchorage,

and tides.

When passing through the channel between the North point of Mindanao and Panoan, two small woody isles will be seen, one of them a-head, and the other to the southward of it Betwixt the latter and Mindanao there are soundings of 25 to 30 fathoms, and 15 to 10 fathoms very near the Mindanao shore. The Spanish village SURIGAO, consisting of few houses, is situated about 2 leagues to the southward of the small isle; and by hauling to the southward close along the coast of Mindanao, you may anchor in 14 or 15 fathoms fine grey sand, with the village bearing S. by W. distant 1½ or 1 mile. If it is brought to bear S.W. or more westerly, at the distance of 3 or 4 miles, neither anchors nor cables will hold against the tides, which run sometimes at the rate of 9 or 10 miles per hour, as experienced by the Royal Captain, at anchor here, in 1762.

The Surigao Islands, which front this bay, form a compact chain, stretching from the N. E. part of Mindanao, in a northerly direction nearly to Passage Island, at the East entrance of the strait of Panoan. There is no safe passage between them, for the tide runs at the rate of 9 or 10 knots, with dangerous ripplings, in the two narrow guts formed between the southernmost of these islands and the South point of the bay.

Sailing directions.

Ships intending to stop at Surigao Road for water, should with the wind at southward or westward, carry all sail possible, taking care to haul close round Surigao Point, between the South Woody Island and Mindanao, keeping this coast aboard until the village bear S. by W., distant 1½ mile. In this situation, they ought to anchor in 15 fathoms, and not bring the village farther to the westward; here, is a fresh water river, and by observations taken in H.M.S. Psyche, in 1809, Surigao village is situated in lat. 9° 47′ N., lon. 125° 25′ E. When going in, the Small Woody Island may be passed at ¼ mile distance, but not nearer.

The propriety of keeping near the Mindanao shore, in proceeding to the anchorage at Surigao, will appear evident by the following remark, taken from a plan of that bay, constructed by Mr. C. Maitland, Master of the Pysche.

Having no good directions, this ship did not keep Surigao Point and the Mindanao shore aboard, but passed to the eastward of South. Woody Island, and finding the ebb tide running rapidly to the S. Eastward, she was obliged to anchor in 40 fathoms. The cable immediately parted, and a second anchor was let go, which not bringing the ship up, she was obliged to cut; but in working against the strong ebb tide, she was horsed close over to the islands bounding the East side of the bay, forced again to anchor in 27 fathoms, where she lay two days blowing a gale at westward, with the rocks under her stern.

When the weather became moderate, she passed to the North, and N. Westward, along the West side of the chain of islands, through an intricate channel formed between the chain and N. E. island, which is a large island on the N. E. side of the bay. Here, she narrowly escaped being lost upon a reef which projects from the West point of the island that lies directly East from N. E. Island, and bounds the East side of Psyche's Channel.

There is a shoal with only 2 fathoms water on it, situated betwixt N. E. Island and South Woody Island, nearest to the former; but no ship ought to go outside of South Woody Island, for if she is obliged to anchor in deep water, no cables or anchors will hold against the tides.

The easternmost of the Surigao Islands, fronting the ocean directly East from the Bay, has a reef projecting from its N. E. part, on which a Spanish ship was lost in 1808.

Embocadero.

EMBOCADERO, or STRAITS OF ST. BERNARDINO, called also the STRAITS OF MANILLA, are formed between the South coast of Luconia, and the numerous islands in its vicinity.

The Galloons from Acapulco, passed usually through these straits; and it may be proper to give a brief description of the eastern entrance, in case any ships be disabled by a Ty-

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foong, or otherwise in distress, when proceeding to, or from China by the eastern passage, and find it indispensable to run for these straits.

Geo. Site of Cape Espiritu Santo.

To approach the Embocadero.

Port Palapa and its contiguous Islands.

CAPE ESPIRITU SANTO, the N. Eastern extremity of the Island Samar, is bold high land, that may be seen 12 or 14 leagues; and is situated in lat. 12° 40′ N., lon. 125° 38′ E.,* by mean of the observations and chronometers of several ships which fell in with it when returning from China by the Eastern Passage. Ships steering for the, Embocadero generally make this cape, which is proper with an easterly or southerly wind; but as the North coast of Samar extends nearly West from the cape about 20 leagues to the entrance of the Embocadero, it seems advisable to steer direct for that strait, if the wind be northerly; because several small islands are scattered along the coast, and with this wind, it becomes a lee shore. A few leagues West from Cape Espiritu Santo, the PORT OF PALAPA, is situated, having 6 and 5 fathoms water inside, where there is a chain of rocks near the eastern part; but the western part seems safe, according to the Spanish plan. This port is formed inside of the Island Batac or Batag, between it and the contiguous islands; there are two channels leading to the port, one on each side of Batac, but that to the westward, seems the best, which is formed betwixt the reef that projects from the island, and another reef projecting from the adjoining island Cahayaga. The course in, is about South, and the depths decrease from 18 or 20 fathoms at the entrance, to 8, 7, and 6 fathoms inside: good water, is got on the Island Laguan, which forms the S.W. side of the port. About 4 or 5 miles to the S.W. of this port, there is good anchorage on the West side of the Island Laguan, near the village of that name; where a ship may anchor in 6, or 7 fathoms, betwixt it and the Samar shore, sheltered from East and N. E. winds, but exposed to N.W. and Westward.

To sail into the Embocadero.

The entrance of the Embocadero, formed betwixt the S, E. end of Luconia and the N.W. point of Samar, is contracted by a group of isles and rocks, which lie a little outside of the latter. The Isle St. Bernardino, is detached from these to the N. Westward, and on either side of it there, is a passage, with soundings of 30 to 50 or 60 fathoms. Close to St. Bernardino there is a small islet, and to the westward, a group of isles and rocks will be perceived, contiguous to the point of Luconia; the channel is between these, and the islands Dalupiri, Capul, and others that lie to the southward; and then to the westward, between the N. E. side of the island Ticao and Luconia.

Port and road of St. Jacinto.

PORT ST. JACINTO, in lat. 12° 54′ N., is situated on the N. E. side of Ticao, which is the first large island to the westward of the entrance of Embocadero, distant about 9 or 10 leagues from St. Bernardino. This place may be easily known by a building, with some round bastions, forming a kind of fort, which stands on a rocky cliff, the land rising in hills behind it. The anchorage in the road, in 15 or 16 fathoms sand and gravel, is about a large ½ mile off shore, with the house or fort bearing S. W. ¾ W., a pyramid rock to the southward of it South, the points which form the entrance of the harbour W. by N. ¼ N. and W. by S. ½ S., Sugar Loaf Hill on Luconia N. ¼ W., and the mouth of Sorsogon Harbour N. by E. ¾ E., distant about 4½ leagues. Ships may anchor in from 23 to 7 fathoms, but the bank being steep, it is proper coming in, during the night, to bring up as soon as possible after getting 26 or 24 fathoms, from which the water shoals pretty quick to 4½ fathoms. There is very little stream of tide in the road, which rises 6 feet; high water between 6 and 7 hours at full and change of the moon.

The South point of the entrance of the harbour, is fronted by a reef, which stretches along shore to the southward; and a reef projects out near ½ a mile from a point where there is a black rock, about a mile to the northward of the North point of the harbour's mouth. The

* A Spanish Chart, said to be from good observations, places it in lat. 12° 34′ N., lon. 125° 12′ E.

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latter is contracted by the reef on the South side, but the depths decrease regularly, to 10, 8, and 7 fathoms, inside in the port, where there is room for several ships; but the northern arm of it being very shoal, they are obliged to moor toward the South side, with the entrance partly open.

The watering place, is about 2 miles to the northward of the road, in a pool 10 or 12 yards above high water mark; into which, a small run descends through a valley among trees and bushes, and is not easily perceived, but the water is good.

The Galleons used to touch at this place, in their passage to, and from Acapulco: good beef, and tropical fruits, such as pine apples, and water-melons, may be procured. About a league to the North of St. Jacinto, lies the bay or inlet of Tasdugan, having 10 and 12 fathoms water in it; and at the N.W. end of the island the bay or port of St. Miguel is situated, with 65 fathoms water in the entrance, and from 20 to 10 fathoms close to the reefs at the head of the bay.

Sorsogon Harbour.

SORSOGON HARBOUR, on the coast of Luconia, opposite to the North end of Ticao, is said to be safe: the island Bagatao, situated in the entrance, is connected with the East point by a shoal; the channel being betwixt its western point and the island Malahumasan, which projects southward from the land on the West side of the harbour. The soundings are irregular in the channel, from 7 or 8, to 12 or 14 fathoms. and nearly the same inside. Water is got on the East side of the harbour, which is well sheltered from all winds: and about 2 leagues from the outer part of the entrance, it opens out into a spacious lagoon or inner harbour, with soundings from 6 to 3 fathoms.

Directions.

Having rounded the N.W. extremity of Ticao, the track through the straits is to the W. S. W. betwixt the South point of the large island Burias and the North point of Masbate, another large island to the southward. From hence, the course is nearly W. N. W. about 23 leagues, to the passage between the South end of the large island Marinduque, and Banton and other islands that lie to the eastward of Mindora; which, with it, bound the channel on the South side. The passage continues to the westward betwixt the North coast of Mindora, and Green Island, Maricaba, and Luconia, which bound it to the northward; then round Point Santiago, the S.W. point of Luconia, and inside of Amul and the Luban Islands, if bound to Manilla Bay.

Bays or har hours adjacent.

Where soundings are found in these straits, the depths are generally too great for anchorage; but contiguous to the passage, there are some small bays or ports, where vessels might anchor occasionally, exclusive of those already mentioned. Port Magna, at the middle of the N. E. side of the island Masbate, fronting the island Ticao, is thought to be a safe harbour. St. André's is a small port on the West side of the island Marinduque, a little southward of the N.W. point, fit for small vessels. On the North side of Mindora, there is anchorage in some places opposite to Green Island, the best of which, is Calapan Road, to the S. E. of that island, and directly inside of the Baco Isles.

Batangas Bay.

BATANGAS BAY, on the coast of Luconia, to the northward of the West end of Green Island, has a mud bank lining the bottom of it, with 7 and 8 fathoms close to, and regular soundings in the N. E. angle of the bay. Here, the depths are 6 and 7 fathoms very near the shore, increasing to 35 and 40 fathoms about 2 miles off, and a little farther out, no ground. A ship may anchor in this part of the bay, opposite to the convent of Batangas, where there is a grove of trees. At the N.W. part of the bay stands the village and fort of Bawang, and the land to the northward is cultivated to the tops of the hills, which rise with a gentle acclivity. The land is high on the East side, and low on the West side of the entrance of the bay, and no soundings are obtained until near the land on the East side, or until well in toward the northern shore.

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East coast of Luconia.

Geo. Site of Catanduanes.

LUCONIA EAST COAST, forms a very great and deep bay, extending from about lat. 17° N. to the north part of the large island Catanduanes, situated in about lat. 14° 16′ N.; and the South end of this island is in lat. 13° 38′ N., lon. 124° 16′ E. and 16 or 18 leagues to the northward of the entrance of the Embocadero. The coast in several parts is fronted by coral reefs, with many islands interspersed along the southern part, betwixt the bottom of the Great Bay and Catanduanes. Although there are some bays or harbours fit to receive small vessels, they are little known, and seem intricate to enter. Large ships ought, therefore, not to approach this coast in the N. E. monsoon betwixt Cape Engano and the island Catanduanes, to prevent being embayed; for if by any accident they fall to the westward near Cape Espiritu Santo, when proceeding by the eastern passage to China, they ought to endeavour to regain sufficient easting with the Embocadero under their lee, that they may be enabled to steer for it, in case of necessity; or push through it and the straits of Manilla, and afterward proceed along the West coast of Luconia to the northward, at least as far as Cape Bolina, before crossing over for the coast of China.

Place affording shelter.

The places on the East coast, affording anchorage, or tolerable shelter from N. E. winds, are Davilican Bay, a little to the southward of lat. 17° N., and Casiguran Bay, about 23 leagues farther to the southward. Also close under the West side of the island Pulo, which is in about lat. 15° 8′ N. distant 12 or 14 leagues southward from Casiguran Bay; there being soundings betwixt the island and the main, and directly West from the South point of it, there is an inlet into a harbour for boats, having 1½ fathom in the entrance, and 3 or 4 fathoms inside. This part of the coast betwixt Pulo, and Alabat Island, situated 7 or 8 leagues more to the southward, is called Lampon Bay.

St. Miguel de Naga Bay.

ST. MIGUEL DE NAGA, about 16 leagues to the westward of the North end of Catanduanes, is a large bay, with several islands fronting the entrance, and a reef surrounding the East point; it is said to have anchorage, and shelter from most winds.

Geo. Site of Port Seeseeran.

PORT SEESEERAN, in lat. 14° 20′ N.,* lon. 123° 40′ E., situated about 8 leagues eastward of the entrance of the bay last mentioned, and about the same distance to the West of the N.W. end of Catanduanes, is a safe harbour, being sheltered from the sea by a group of islands, of which the largest fronting it, is called Quinalazag or Ticos. The entrance is close round the East point of this island, the channel being bounded by small isles, and an extensive reef to the eastward. From 30 or 40 fathoms outside, the depths decrease steering South into the entrance of the port, to 15 and 12 fathoms; and when round the East point of the island Quinalazag, a ship should haul to the westward, and anchor under it in 7, 6, or 5 fathoms water, where she will be sheltered from all winds, and have the village Bahi on the Luconia shore, opposite to her. The peaked mountain Ysarroc, stands on the inner part of the peninsula that separates the bay of St. Miguel de Naga from port Seeseeran, about 3 leagues to the westward of the latter. There are several small islands off the N.W. part of Catanduanes, and a reef lining its western side; but the channel is safe betwixt it and the islands that border the coast of Luconia, and this is the passage frequented by Spanish ships, when proceeding from Manilla through the Embocadero toward port Seeseeran.

* Some accounts place it much farther to the southward.

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WEST COAST of BORNEO: * DIRECTIONS for SAILING along it, also between it and BILLITON by the CARIMATA PASSAGE, toward the STRAITS EAST of JAVA, or to the STRAIT of MACASSAR.

Caution for ships touching on the N.W. coast of Borneo.

THE PREDATORY, and treacherous disposition of the inhabitants of the extensive coasts which encircle the great island Borneo, has now discouraged almost every European from venturing to trade there. On the N.W. coast particularly, they have in the river of Borneo Proper, about 40 or 50 large proas,† belonging to the town, which are instantly armed, and filled with men, when a ship is to be assaulted. Therefore, except in a large ship well fitted for defence, it is not safe to remain in the road; and certain destruction, to go up the river to the town. If a boat is sent on shore, the Rajah will offer to trade, when the ship is brought into the river, and when the commander comes to visit him. Beware of complying with either of these requests, for by doing so, Captain Dixon of the May (a stout ship well armed), was massacred with his four officers, and part of the crew, by these rapacious pirates, and the ship and cargo seized by them. About three months after this catastrophe, the Warren Hastings, mounting about 16 guns, anchored in the road of Borneo Proper, and after remaining a few days, and communicating in her boat with the town, 23 large proas came out of the river to attack her, which obliged her to leave this inhospitable place without trading. It may therefore, be only necessary, to notice briefly, the principal places on this coast, which are sometimes visited by European navigators.

Abai Harbour and coast adjacent.

ABAI HARBOUR, in about lat. 6° 21′ N., distant 15 or 16 leagues S.W. by S. nearly from Tanjong Sampanmangio the North point of Borneo, is formed by the peaked island Oosookan, which lies about a league to the westward of Tampassook Point. The entrance is on the East side of the island, but there is not depth in the harbour at high water for a vessel drawing above 12 feet, nor is the depths much greater in the river. About 1½ mile North from Oosookan, there is a reef of rocks partly visible at half ebb, and several coral banks, with from 4 to 6 fathoms on them, are situated in the offing betwixt this place and the North point of Borneo; also the Mantannane Isles in lat. 6° 39′ N., and a rock or reef is said to lie 4 or 5 leagues to the northward of them. Soundings extend a great way out from the coast, and are pretty regular in sailing along it; there are several bays without shelter, and Batornande Point, situated about 5 leagues to the southward of the North point of Borneo, has a reef of rocks partly above water, projecting from it, which ought to have a birth of ½ a mile, or more. A chain of mountains stretches along the coast, which, at Tampassook, and some other parts, is low near the sea.

Amboon Harbour and neighbouring coast.

AMBOON HARBOUR, separated by a bay, from Oosookan Island, has a small isle in the entrance, and is said to be pretty safe, with sufficient depth of water. Tanjong Kaetan, about 7 leagues farther to the S.W., is the North point of a great bay, in which Pulo Gaya, and other islands, stretch along the coast, to Pulo Teega, in lat. 5° 38′ N., and 14 leagues to the S.W. of Tanjong Kaeton. Mangallom Island, with some coral shoals to the westward of it, are situated in the offing near the edge of the bank of soundings. keemanee's Point, about 5 miles S.W. by S. from Pulo Teega (three islands) has a reef projecting 1½

* By the natives pronounced Brunai.

† Or Prahus.

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mile; and W. N.W. 5 or 6 miles from it, there is a dry sand bank, and a shoal with 2 fathoms water on it about 2½ leagues to the S. Westward of the latter. To the eastward of the point, there is good shelter in 7 fathoms mud, from S.W. and West winds.

Labooan, and the Islands around Borneo Road.

LABOOAN ISLAND, about 7 or 8 leagues S.W. from Keemanee's Point, is of moderate height: several isles off its S. E. part, stretch toward the Borneo Shore, leaving a passage for small vessels. From its S.W. point, four isles connected by rocks, project to the S. S.W. about 5 miles, with an islet and a reef stretching from their extremity: the two next to Labooan, are called Corooman, and the others Roosoocan. The channel into Borneo Road, is between these and Tree Island (or Two Mast Island), which is small, and distant about 2½ leagues to the S. S. Westward of them. The depths in the channel are from 30 to 20 fathoms, and although the bottom is hard, with irregular soundings in some parts near the islands, they may be approached within 2 miles, or less.

River and town.

PULO MOOARRO, distant 4 or 5 miles southward from Tree Island, forms the West side of the entrance of Borneo River, and is separated by a narrow channel from the main land. A sand or reef stretches from its point to the N. E. 3 or 4 miles, then round to N.W., toward Tree Island, and the latter is also fronted by a reef; the change from soft to hard ground, denotes the approach to the reef off Pulo Mooarro. The channel into the river is close to the S. E. point, and along the South side of Pulo Mooarro, being bounded on the other side by an extensive mud bank. The town of Borneo, or Borneo Proper, is 4½ leagues up the river, which is navigable by vessels of considerable burthen; junks, of 500 tons measurement, are built here, for the China trade, which are navigated by Chinese.

Anchorage.

The anchorage in the road, is about 5 or 6 miles to the N. E. of Pulo Mooarro, in 9 or 10 fathoms mud; but the whole space between the entrance of the river and the islands fronting Labooan, may be considered as the road. The Warren Hastings, at anchor in 21 fathoms mud, had the East point of Pulo Mooarro bearing S. by E. about 6 or 7 miles distant, Tree Island W. S.W., the islands to the northward from N. ½ E. to N. E. by E., distant from the South Roosoocan 5 or 6 miles, and made the lat. 5° 0′ N. by observation. Some accounts place Borneo Road several miles more northerly; Captain Kirton's plan of the river, makes Pulo Mooarro in lat. 5° 4′ N. There are only two tides in 24 hours, the flood in the road, setting in the S.W. monsoon 8 hours S. Easterly, and the ebb 14 hours to the N.W., but not strong.

Tanjong Barram, and the coast from Borneo Road.

TANJONG BARRAM, or LOW CAPE, has a reef of rocks or breakers projecting a great way to the S.W. and Westward; it is distant about 27 leagues to the W. S.W. of Borneo Road, the coast between them forming a bay, with irregular soundings of 15 to 30 fathoms about 4 or 6 leagues off shore. In the offing, there are some small isles and shoals, but their true positions are very uncertain; about 7 leagues nearly W. N.W. from Tree Island, off the entrance of Borneo Road, there is a coral bank, having on it 5 or 6 fathoms.

Tanjong Dattoo, and coast from Tanjong Barram.

TANJONG DATTOO, in about lat. 3° N., forming the West point of Sedang Bay which are a number of small isles), has a reef projecting from it, and an islet on the extremity. The coast between it and Tanjong Barram, distant about 60 leagues, forms two large bays, separated by Tanjong Sisor, a point which lies about 26 leagues from the latter. There are some dangers abreast of this point in the offing, not well known: in sailing along, they are best avoided by keeping within 4 or 5 leagues off the coast.

Geo. Site of Tanjong Apee; adjacent coast.

TANJONG APEE, in about lat. 2° 0′, or 1° 55′ N., lon. 109° 14′ E., and distant about. 30 leagues S. Westward from Tanjong Dattoo, is fronted by a reef, projecting to a considerable distance, and the hills over it being connected by low land, gives them the appearance of

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islands when seen from the northward. The coast in this space forms a concavity, which may be approached with care, but the Larkin's Shoal must have a wide birth in passing. The South Natuna Islands extend out in the offing, to the northward of Tanjong Apee, which with the Larkin's, and other shoals, have been already described in the 3d section, under the title "China Sea." The tides run along the N.W. coast of Borneo from 1 to 2 miles an hour; the stream or current to the N. Eastward, runs strongest in the S.W. monsoon, and in the northerly monsoon, the current or tide to the S.W. prevails. Land and sea breezes are common, particularly in the S.W. monsoon.

Geo. Site of Sambas; coast adjoining.

SAMBAS RIVER'S ENTRANCE, in lat. 1° 13½′ N., lon. 109° 3′ E., by lunar observations, distant about 16 leagues southward of Tanjong Apee, has a wide entrance, with some small islets touching the North point, and two hills on the other. The town is about 10 leagues up the river, on the South branch, which has many windings near the town. The principal branch is wide, running directly eastward, having many lateral branches, one of which leads to Borneo; and the sea flowing into the river a great way, makes the water brackish 4 or 5 leagues up, so that ships in want of water, are obliged to get it from a great distance. The anchorage in the road, is off the mouth of the river bearing East or E. ½ N., in any depth thought proper from 15 to 5 fathoms, the decrease being regular over a soft bottom, to 4 fathoms about 1½ or 2 miles off shore. The soundings are very regular along this part of the coast, and extend across the sea to Pulo Lingin, and to the entrance of the strait of Singapore. Sambas is one of the places on the Borneo coast, sometimes visited by ships employed in the eastern trade from Bengal; it was fortified by a piratical Rajah, who was driven to the interior by a British force sent from Batavia in 1812, but he is said to have returned to it again. Since the-late treaty with the Netherlands' Government, the Dutch have Claimed as their right, most of the trading ports along this coast, where they have placed commercial residents, and some troops. In lat. 1° 4′ N. Slackoo Road is situated, where vessels sometimes stop to trade.

Geo. Site of Mampava.

MAMPAVA POINT, in lat. 0° 17½ N., lon: 109° 0′ E., distant about 19 leagues South Mampava.a little westerly from Sambas River, is 4 miles to the westward of the mouth of Mampava River, only navigable by proas, and has a fort at the entrance, with the town of Mampava situated a few miles inside. The anchorage in the road, is in 5 to 8 fathoms, about 3 or 4 miles off shore, with the mouth of the river N. by E. ½ E.; or to the westward of the point, at discretion, where there is a landing place, for the soundings are regular all round, decreasing gradually to 4 fathoms. Pulo Dattoo, is a high island bearing W. by S. ½ S., about 9 leagues from Mampava Road, and several islands stretch along the coast to Battooblat Hill and Point, which is nearly mid-way betwixt Mampava Point and Sambas River. These islands are safe to approach, with a channel of 6 to 8 fathoms inside of all the southernmost; but the group contiguous to Battooblat Point, being formed of isles near to each other, it is proper for ships to pass outside of the outermost one, called Lamookatan.

In Mampava Road the tides run about 2 miles per hour. nearly E. S. E. and opposite.

Geo. Site of Pontiana.

PONTIANA, or LEWA RIVER'S MOUTH, in lat. 0° 2′ N., lon. 109° 12′ E., is about 7 leagues to the S. S. Eastward of Mampava Point, the coast between them forming a bay. The anchorage in the road is in from 3½ to 5½ fathoms, with the river's mouth bearing E. by S.¼ S. or E. S. E., Pulo Dattoo W. ¼ N. or W. N., and the extremes of Borneo from S. ¼ E. to N. N.W. ½ W., off shore about 4 or 5 miles. The Princess Charlotte of Wales, June 1st, 1813, anchored in 5½ fathoms, with the extremes of the land bearing from N. N. E. to S. by W., the entrance of the river E. N. E., off shore 5 or 6 miles, observed lat. 0° 1′ N. A shoal mud bank projects out a great way from the mouth of the river, and although the bar is nearly dry at low water, there is 8 or 10 feet on it at high spring tides. The town is

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about 12 miles from the river's mouth, and has a fort, and at Balu-Lagong about 7 miles up, there is a fort on each side, with 14 or 15 heavy guns mounted. These two places are sometimes visited by the Bengal traders: some bullocks and hogs, may be procured here, and also at Mampava; but boats must go far up the river to procure fresh water, which makes watering at Pontiana River very inconvenient.

Coast from thence southward.

From Pontiana River, the coast stretches South and S. by E. about 20 leagues to Tanjong Factie or Fatteye, in about lat. 1° 15′ S., and from hence it takes an easterly direction 8 or 9 leagues, having a channel of from 3 to 4 fathoms between Tanjong Fatteye and the large group of islets that front it. From this point numerous small islands extend southward and S.Westward to Carimata, which is distant from the former 15 or 16 leagues. Between the group of isles nearest to Tanjong Fatteye and others to the southward, there is a good channel with 5, 6, and 7 fathoms water, through which the fleet passed in 1811, when bound to the conquest of Java; and nearer to Carimata, there is another channel betwixt the small isles to the S. Eastward of it, and betwixt other isles and Carimata. The Osterly went through this passage, which was found very intricate, and in one part, she had only 5 fathoms rocky bottom, betwixt the islands that lie directly East from Carimata. It is not advisable to pass through the latter in a large ship. Capt. Kempthorne, in H. M. brig Diana, carried soundings mostly of 3 to 3¾ fathoms, when rounding Tanjong Fatteye, in proceeding along the coast by the inner passage. She had mostly light winds and southerly currents, and was from the 4th to the 23d of November, 1808, getting from lat. 4° S. to Pontiana Road.

Succadana.

A caution.

SUCCADANA, in about lat. 1° 16′ S., distant 7 or 8 leagues to the eastward of Tanjong Fatteye, and situated on the East side of the deep bay, inside of that point, has good anchorage in 5 or 6 fathoms in the road, with a group of isles to the southward. This place is also visited at times by the eastern traders from Bengal. Although at the foregoing places, it is not so dangerous to stop, as at Borneo River, ships ought, nevertheless, to be well prepared for defence, and the officers continually on the watch, for they are liable to an attack.*

Tanjong Sambar.

From Succadana, the coast extends South and S. by W. about 34 leagues to Tanjong Sambar in about lat. 2° 53′ South, which is the S.W. point of Borneo, and with part of the circumjacent coast, is low land. The coast between these places has seldom been approached under 10 or 12 fathoms, being fronted by islets, or rocky ground in some parts; but the expedition against Java, having proceeded along this part of the coast, by a route previously little known, renders a description of it indispensable.

Inner Channel.

INNER CHANNEL, formed among the islands situated between the coast of Borneo and Carimata, although narrow in some parts, has moderate depths, with generally good anchorage, and seems preferable to the route West of Carimata and Souroutou, for ships which have to work along the coast against the monsoon, whether bound to the northward or southward.

Geo. Site of Panunibangan Island.

PULO PANUNIBANGAN, in lat. 1° 12′ S., lon. 109° 14′ E. by chronometers, extending about 2 leagues E. N. E. and W. S.W. is high, and forms the North entrance of the Inner Channel. and off its N.W. side, affords good anchorage from southerly winds in 5½ or 6 fathoms. Fresh Water Bay, at this part of the island, has two runs of good water, the

* Captain Sadler, of the ship Transfer of Calcutta, was attacked in his boat and killed, in Mampava River, by the wiles of the Rajah of that place, who was indebted to that commander about 30,000 dollars for opium and piece-goods; this Rajah also poisoned the Master of a Chinese junk, to whom he was indebted about 8000 dollars. There are many Chinese settled at these places on the West coast of Borneo, who together with the Bugges (many of whom also reside here) are the only industrious inhabitants; the Malays being very indolent, and treacherous.

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westernmost of which is the largest, where you fill the water behind a large black rock on the beach; the boats may approach close, or the casks can be landed on the beach which consists of fine sand. Here, the fleet watered in July, 1811, when bound to attack Java; the William Pitt anchored in 5¾ fathoms soft mud, June 30th, with the Island Panumbangan bearing S. ½ E. to N. E. off shore 1¼ mile, and off the watering place 2 miles, the first and best watering place E. by S. ¼ S., second watering place S. E. by E., third watering place S. E., and Massa Teega Islands N. ½ E. All these watering places are fronted by fine sandy beaches, and easily discerned: there are spars fit for top-masts on the island, but the trees seem to be too heavy.

Directions.

If bound to the southward through the Inner Channel, the Borneo Coast may be approached to 8 or 9 fathoms at discretion till near the three small isles Massa Teega, situated in lat. 0° 55′ N., distant about 2 leagues from the coast, and bear North from Panumbangan. In working, do not stand too far to the westward, on account of Greig's Shoal, but you may borrow toward the West part of Massa Teega to 8½ or 9 fathoms, and off to 14 or 15 fathoms near the Lima Islands, which are a close group of small isles, united by reefs, distant 7 or 8 leagues to the westward of Panumbangan. PULO MALAPIS forming a group of three high islands, with some contiguous islets much farther to the eastward, one of which is called Double Island, lies to the S.W. of Panumbangan; Greig's Channel; or the entrance of the Inner Channel, is formed between these, by leaving to the northward Pulo Seery, a small isle off the West end of Panumbangan, and all the islets of Malapis group must be left to the southward; the course in steering through is S. Easterly, and the depths from 12 to 18 fathoms, mostly hard ground, which again becomes soft when through the channel. To the eastward of Panumbangan there are 4 and 3½ fathoms, where small vessels may pass between it and the coast of Borneo, in soft bottom and regular soundings; here, in about lat. 1° 11′ S. is situated Goonong Myang Mountain, at a small distance inland, with low land fronting the sea, the South extreme of which in about lat. 1° 16′ S. forms Tanjong Sattai, Fatteye, or Factie.

Pulo Papan.

Having passed through the channel to the West of Panumbangan, the course is S. Easterly 5 or 6 leagues to PULO PAPAN, leaving to the westward the two Passage Islands, the soundings in this track being from 7 to 11 fathoms near the latter, shoaling to 5 fathoms toward the Button, a small isle to the S. Eastward of Panumbangan, inside of which are 4 and 3½ fathoms.

Pulo Papan, in lat. 1° 28′ S. forms two small groups, betwixt which is the Papan Channel, about a mile wide, with from 9 to 15 fathoms water, formed between the West group and East island, which is the largest, with two islets near its North side, and bounds the channel on the East side. The passage to the eastward of Pulo Papan is also sate, with 12 fathoms near the island, decreasing fast toward the coast.

After passing through the Papan Channel the course is S. S. Eastward, leaving to the West Birdnest Islands,* and all others which lie to the East and S. E. of Carimata; the fair track is between these and the coast of Borneo, and the depths 9 to 12 fathoms near the islands, decreasing toward the coast, but not always regular.

Minto Rocks.

In proceeding along the coast, care must be taken not to approach it too close in the night, for in lat, 2° 13′ S. to 2° 16′ S., Minto Rocks lie 4 or 5 miles off shore, some of which are near the water's edge, with a sand to the S, Eastward, A hill on the main bearing E.9½° N. from them, in lat. 2° 14′ S. will be a guide in the day, and farther to the E. S. Eastward, in lat. 2° 22′ S. is situated a high peak. About 5 or 6 leagues off this part of the coast, the depths are mostly from 14 to 17 fathoms, and from 9 to 11 fathoms about 4 miles outside of Minto Rocks, but if you haul in for Rendezvous Island, they will decrease to 7, 6, or 5

* The Osterly passed through among these, and afterward near the East side of Carimata, but she found that route very intricate, and had several times rocky bottom and very shoal water.

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fathoms, near the reef that lines its western point, and projects around it to the South and eastward.

Geo. Site of Rendezvous Island.

RENDEZVOUS ISLAND, in lat. 2° 44′ S., lon. 110° 3′ E. (its West point) or 1° 4′ E. of Cirencester's Sand Bank, by chronometers,* extends about 5 leagues to the N. E., and a chain of small islands and reefs joins it nearly to the main, which stretches also to southward along the coast to Pulo Mancap, and fronted with shoal water. Captain Graham, of the William Pitt, could scarcely find a passage in his cutter between Rendezvous Island and the main; and about 4 leagues S. by W. from the West point of the island, lies a bank with 3 or 3½ fathoms, which makes it proper in leaving the anchorage at the N.W. part of the island, to haul off to the S.Westward to give a birth to this bank. When the fleet lay at Rendezvous Island in July, land and sea breezes prevailed, the former at East and E. S. E., veering to S. S. E. in a sea breeze; the island shews in hummocks, but cannot be seen above 5 or 6 leagues, and the West point forms in a bluff, when viewed from S. W. or southward.

Anchorage.

The fleet under Commodore Broughton, of about 40 sail, assembled at this island, after having worked through the foregoing passage, or Inner Channel. The William Pitt anchored in 4¾ fathoms, July 11th, 1811, off shore about 4 miles, West point of Rendezvous Island bearing S. ½ W., its North point E. by N.½ N., a small isle off this point E. by N. ¾ N., another isle E. N. E., a 3d small isle North, with the trees on it just visible from the poop, North extreme of the land of Borneo N. N. E. The first two isles are united by a coral reef, which extends 2 miles N. N.W. from the second island, having near its extremity a large rock 20 feet above water; from this rock in a N. E. direction there is another island about 4 miles long, surrounded by coral reefs.

Although coral reefs, with sharp pointed rocks visible at low water, project out from l to 3 miles from most parts of Rendezvous Island, yet the western side where the fleet lay, appeared tolerably clear, with a sandy beach, where wells were dug above high water mark, and afforded very good water. From the West point of the island, the land forms an elbow, by which there is shelter from all winds East of North to South, with smooth water; and the tides were found here, to be more regular than at any other part of the West coast of Borneo, the rise 8 or 9 feet. About 4 or 5 miles South of the West point of the island, lie three small isles, with coral reefs projecting to them; other isles bear South from the point about 4 or 5 leagues, and they are all fronted by shoal water, the depth being only 5 fathoms about 31 miles to the westward of the West point of Rendezvous Island.

Geo. Site of Pulo Mancap.

PULO MANCAP, MUNCOO,† or MANKOKII, in lat. 3° 4¾′ S., lon. 110° 11′ E., or 3° 18½′ East of Edam Island, by the observations of Capt. Ross, of the Discovery, with good chronometers, is a small low island, which may be seen about 5 leagues from the deck of a large ship, and is distant about 2½ leagues to the southward of Tanjong Sambar: near it to the N. N. Eastward, there is said to lie another small isle, which appeared as three bushy islets or rocks, to Capt. Ross, when examining the surrounding shoal. Other islands front Tanjong Sambar to the westward, extending in a northerly direction toward Rendezvous Island.

Shoal Bank.

To the West and S.Westward, Pulo Mancap may be approached to 16 or 17 fathoms, at the distance of 4½ or 4 leagues, but not nearer; for, with it bearing East distant 10 miles, the Discovery got suddenly into 4 and 3¾ fathoms hard sand, on the shoal hank that encircles the island; when it bore N. 44° E., distant about 7 miles, she had 3¾ fathoms tine sand, and

* This longitude was settled by Capt. Ross, in the Discovery, by excellent chronometers, but the observations of the fleet made it several miles more to the westward.

† It is said to be named from Muncoo, a cup or bowl. In the 1st edition of this work, the longitude assigned to this island was 110° 7′ E., from a mean of chronometric observations by different ships, but its situation as stated by Capt. Ross, is probably nearest the truth.

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with it bearing N. N. E. E. about 10 or 12 miles, seen from the deck, she struck on the ground, though drawing little water, occasioned by the swell. The island ought not to be brought to the northward of N. E. by N. while in sight from the mast-head, for if it bear N. N. E. ¼ E. about 6 leagues distant, you will suddenly get into shoal water on some of the spits that stretch far to the southward, having from 10 to 17 fathoms soft bottom near them.

Mancap Shoal Walpole grounded.

MANCAP SHOAL, placed South from the island of this name, to the distance of 6½ leagues or its southern extremity in lat. 3° 22′ S. by the Walpole's account which ship grounded on it. This is, however, only the situation of the southern limit of the inner shoal, from whence, other shoal banks, detached from each other, stretch S. S. W. and S. by W. to lat. 3° 46′, or 3° 48′ S., having large swatches or channels betwixt some of them, through which several ships have passed.

Bombay Castle got near to danger.

The Bombay Castle, January 12th, 1794, with Pulo Mancap in sight from the mizen shrouds, bearing N. N. E. ¼ E., distant about 6 leagues, shoaled suddenly to 7 fathoms and anchored, a spit of shoal water bearing from S.W. to S. E. ½ S., about 1 mile distant, on which the boats found ¼ less 5 fathoms in some places, with overfalls and very irregular depths to the distance of 3 miles S. E. and S. Westward. After weighing, she steered between S. S.W. and S.W., crossed the spit in 5 fathoms, then deepened to 14 fathoms, and shoaled again to 7 fathoms; afterward, deepened gradually to 22 fathoms. Having run about 5 miles from the place where she was at anchor, the appearance of a shoal was seen about 2 miles off, very conspicuous, by broken water extending from E. N. E. to E. by S. This was found to be in lat. 3° 26′ S., by noon observation.

Discovery got on several spits,

and near to breakers.

The Discovery, Capt. Ross, May 26th, 1814, after striking on the inner shoal in 2¾ fathoms, with Pulo Mancap in sight from the deck bearing N. N. E. ¼ E., distant 10 or 12 miles, steered South, and soon deepened into 10, 11, and 13 fathoms mud, and shoaled again to 6 fathoms sand, which appeared to have less water on its western part, Pulo Mancap then visible from the deck, bearing N. N. E.¼ E., distant about 12 miles. From hence steering S. by W., soon deepened into a mud channel of 17 fathoms, shortly after shoaled suddenly to 5 fathoms sand on another long narrow spit extending W. N.W. and E. S. E., Pulo Mancap not visible from the deck; when over it, deepened to 15 fathoms mud, and shortly after shoaled to 7 fathoms sand, and anchored, seeing breakers bearing S. 54° E., distant 2 miles. The boat passed over a spit of 2¼ fathoms, about half way between the ship and the breakers, close to which there is 1½ fathoms water; this danger is situated in lat. 3° 24′ S., and 3½ miles West of the meridian of Pulo Mancap, and appears to be the danger mentioned above, seen by the Bombay Castle.

Geo. Site of a where the Fox grounded.

H. M. S. Fox, with a fleet in company, October 30th, 1797, had 11 fathoms soft mud at noon; shortly after, the water shoaled suddenly to 9 fathoms, and she immediately grounded, but with some exertion was got off, shortly after. Captain Heywood, (then a Lieut. in the Fox) sounded in the cutter to the N. E. and E. N. Eastward, and had continued overfalls from 7 to 2 fathoms, steering in those directions, to the distance of 2½ miles from the ship. That part of the shoal where the ship grounded, from noon observation, was found to be in lat. 3° 32′ S., lon. 110° 4′ E. by chronometer from Malacca; or S. 13° W., 11 or 12 wiles distant from the supposed southern verge of Mancap Shoal. When in lat. 3° 36′ S., she steered E. S. Eastward, and had no less than 19 or 20 fathoms water.

Princess Amelia and other ships got close to breakers.

Geo. Site.

The Princess Amelia, Walmer Castle, Hope, and Taunton Castle, in company, at 1½ P.M. November 15th, 1811, were steering S. E. by E., with the wind at S.W., squally and rain, in 20 fathoms water, when breakers were seen to leeward; the Hope shoaled to 15 fathoms and tacked, but the Princess Amelia missing stays, was obliged to anchor immediately in 19 fathoms, with the breakers to leeward bearing from N.W. round by the eastward to S. S. E. ½ E., distant about ½ a mile, and the Walmer Castle anchored near her. By mean of their noon observations and chronometers, this dangerous shoal, is situated in lat. 3° 3½′ S, lon.

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110° 4 E., and is (no doubt) that on which the Fox grounded, although no breakers were then visible, probably occasioned by the tide being high at that time, with a smooth sea; whereas, a heavy swell prevailed, when the above-mentioned ships got embarrassed with the shoal.

These outer shoals off Pulo Mancap, bound the southern part of the Carimata Passage, (or Strait of Billiton) to the eastward; betwixt which, and the Discovery's eastern bank, which seems to be the nearest danger on its western side, the channel is 17 or 18 leagues wide.

The True Briton, with other ships in company, December 31st, 1801, steering eastward to round Mancap Shoal, got suddenly into 6¼ fathoms red clay and mud, in lat. 3° 30′ S. by double altitudes, lon. 110° 5′ E., or 1° 23′ E. from the West end of Souroutou by chronometer. The Asia found a channel, through one of the swatches between the banks; but the True Briton steered to the southward on the West side of them; when abreast of the Knowl, in about lat. 3° 46′ S., which is the southernmost patch of Mancap Shoals, the depth decreased in 3 casts from 18 to 10 fathoms, in edging away S. E. toward its western edge.

Betwixt this southernmost patch, and that on which the Fox grounded, there is a good channel, by keeping in lat. 3° 36′ to 3° 42′ S., but when the latitude is not correctly known by observation, it is advisable to pass round to the southward of them, in about lat. 3° 49′ or 3 50′ S. Although the bottom, near, and among these shoals, is generally a mixture of red and green clay, with mud; yet, the soundings are very irregular, with overfalls, making it prudent not to come under 15 or 16 fathoms toward them.

Carimata Passage.

CARIMATA PASSAGE, or OUTER CHANNEL, called also the STRAIT of BILLITON, is bounded on the East side by Carimata, Souroutou, and the other islands adjacent to the S.W. part of Borneo; and on the West side, by the island Billiton, with its adjoining isles and dangers. Ships from Malacca Strait, when bound by the eastern passage to China, or to the Molucca Islands, generally proceed through the Carimata Passage after October, when the N.W. monsoon prevails to the southward of the equator.

This passage has been also frequented at various times, by ships bound from China to Europe during war: notwithstanding, there appear to be several dangers nearly in the track followed by those ships, rendering great circumspection indispensable; but the dangers which bound this passage on each side, having been correctly ascertained, by Captains Ross and Maughan, of the Bombay Marine, it may now be navigated with much greater safety than formerly.

To approach it when coming from China;

Ships proceeding from China toward the Carimata Passage, in the N. E. monsoon, should endeavour to see the East side of the Grand Natuna, giving it a birth of 6, 7, or 8 leagues; having passed it, they should steer about S. by W. to clear the South Natunas, leaving them to the eastward; then a S. ½ W. course will carry them fair toward Direction Island. If they pass outside of it, after giving a birth to Welstead's Rock, a S. ¼ E. course from thence, will bring them in sight of Carimata, bearing about S, E.; but it is prudent to keep well out to the westward until Carimata bear E. by S. or East, to avoid the following danger.

Greig's Shoal.

GREIG'S SHOAL, was discovered by Capt. William Greig, of the ship Lord Minto, in 1809, and he gives the following description of it, in a letter dated Malacca, October 14th, 1809.

"This dangerous shoal, we got upon at noon, on the 9th of June last, and found it to extend from lat. 0° 52′ S. to lat. 0° 58′ S.; although there is deep water within this extent, I think it ought to be considered as one shoal. On both extremes of it, we were often in nearly the same depth of water as the vessel drew, which was 13 feet, and this was in steering through between much shoaler spots, with the body of Carimata then seen from the deck,

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bearing between S. S. E. ¾ E. and S. E. by S., and the shoal bears nearly N. ¼ W. from the West point of Souroutou."

This may probably be the shoal, which the ship General Wellesley struck upon, as cloudy weather prevented her from determining its situation, but she places it in about lat. 1° 19′ S., to the northward of Souroutou. The journal states, "at 6 A. M. Carimata bore East 6 or 8 leagues, steering to the northward, struck on a reef at 10 A. M. and passed between the rocks, some of which are 4, 5, and 6 feet under water; hauled off N. N.W. and soon deepened to 12 and 13 fathoms. Near noon, passed over a bank of sand with 6 fathoms water on it; but the weather being cloudy, got no observation, nor could any land be seen."

Direction.

SHIPS, coming from Singapore Strait, should steer from Pedro Branco E. by S. 9 or 10 leagues, if the wind permit, and E. S. E. about 8 or 9 leagues more, to give a birth to the Dogger Banks: afterward, they should pass to the southward of the island St. Barbe, and from thence, steer for Souroutou, but with West or S.W. winds, they may round the North part of Billiton at a moderate distance, then pass to the southward of the Ontario Shoal, giving a birth afterward to the Montaran Islands.

Geo. Site of Carimata.

KRAMATA, or CARIMATA, is a high island, about 3½ leagues in extent, the peak or most elevated hill, being about 2000 feet high, may be seen at the distance of 15 or 16 leagues, and is situated in lat. 1° 36½′ S., lon, 108° 54½′ E., and the N.W. end of the island is in lat. 1° 33′ S., lon. 108° 49′ E. by chronometers. About 42 or 5 leagues distant, bearing North from the northern side of this island, there is a group of islets, called Lima Isles, with soundings of 12 to 14 fathoms near them; which are the outermost of those small islands, that stretch from Carimata toward the Borneo Shore.

Souroutou.

Geo. Site.

SOUROUTOU, situated at a small distance from the S.W. part of Carimata, and separated from it by a narrow channel, is little more than half the height, and much smaller that the other, but may be seen 9 or 10 leagues. The West end is in lat. 1° 42′ S., lon. 108° 41½′ E. by* mean of chronometers from Malacca and from Grand Ladrone; at a sandy beach on the South side of the island, and near the East point, there is a good watering place, but high water is required for a large boat to get over a reef, near to which you may anchor in 7 fathoms mud. Fresh water, it is said, can also be got at the West end of the island, at the foot of a bill of moderate height, where a ship may anchor in 10 fathoms. At the West point of Souroutou, there is a hummock, which has been mistaken for a small island, and called the Quoin from its appearance, but no isle exists here. About 2 or 3 miles off the Nest end of Souroutou, the depths arc 16 and 17 fathoms. The ship Aurora, November 11th, 1816, is said to have seen breakers from the mast-head, bearing S. by W ½ W., distant about 3 miles, when the eastern extremity of Souroutou bore E. by N. ¼ N., the other extreme being obscured by clouds, as the weather was then squally.

Ontario's Shoal.

ONTARIO'S SHOAL, on which the American ship of that name, Captain J. Whetton, was wrecked, January 4th, 1799 is very dangerous; being situated in the direct track formerly recommended to ships, when passing between Souroutou and Billiton. It extends W. N.W. and E. S. E. about ½ a mile, and is composed of sharp spiral rocks, with the tops of some of them dry at low water spring tides; but the small break against their sharp points, cannot be distinguished from the topping of a common sea; and the shoal is steep to, having 18 and 19 fathoms at a ship's length from the rocks. From the Ontario's wreck, the N. E. end of the Quoin was just shut in with the West end of Souroutou; the East end of Sou-

* Capt. Ross made it in lon. 108° 40′ E. by mean of chronometers from Batavia, and from the North Natuna, corresponding with each other within ½ a mile, which is probably nearest the truth.

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routou N. N. E., open about a ¼ point from the West end of Carimata, and distant about 6½ leagues Since the Ontario was wrecked on this shoal, the Duke of Clarence, and Cirencester, have struck on it, and the Coromandel was lately wrecked on the same shoal.

The Cirencester grounded on this shoal, near midnight, November 9th, 1810, and by tarrying out the stream anchor, she hove off it at 6 A M.; that part where the ship grounded, was found to stretch W. N.W. and E. S. E. about 3 cable's lengths, its eastern side taking a sharp bend round to South and S. Westward; and no part of the shoal was visible until almost close to it, except on a patch at the southern extremity, the sea was a little discoloured by the rocks being near the surface. The soundings are no guide in the approach to this dangerous shoal, there being 23 and 24 fathoms close to it on the North and East sides, from 18 to 25 fathoms nearly close to the rocks on the West side, and 25 fathoms clay at the distance of a cable's length.

Geo. Site.

The boats found irregular depths on the reef, of 5 and 6 fathoms, to 12 feet. When the ship was upon it, the West end of Souroutou (or outer extreme of the land) bore N. ¼ E., a small island in the middle of the opening between Carimata and Souroutou N. N. E. ½ E., the peak or highest part of Carimata N. E. ¾ E., observed lat. 2° 2′ S. This shoal, was examined by Capt. Ross, in the Company's surveying ship, Discovery, who found it ½ a mite in extent W. N.W. and E. S. E.; the boat had 1½ fathom in sounding on it about high water, and in many places the depth appeared to be less. He made the shoal in lat. 2° 1′ 15″ S., lon. 108° 39¼′ E.; when at anchor in 21 fathoms, on a mud bottom, with the shoal bearing W. by S., distant 1 mile, the West point of Souroutou bore N. 4° 45′ E., (altitude of the highest part of the island 39′ 30″), East end of Souroutou N. 24° 3′ E., the highest land of Carimata N. 32° 15′ E.; one of the Montaran Islands visible from the main-top, bore S. 6¼° W., and the shoal is 19¼ miles distant from Souroutou Island.

There may probably be another danger, detached a little way from the Ontario's Shoal, for Lieut. Davidson, of the brig Waller, on his passage from Malacca to Amboina in April, 1803, saw two shoals. The first was probably the Ontario's, which appeared about ½ a cable's length each way, nearly even with the water's edge, steep to, with a small breaker on its centre. The Waller had 24 fathoms soft ground, when passing abreast of the shoal within ¼ mile distance, at 1 P. M., April 18th; when in one with the South point of Carimata it bore N. E. ¾ N., the N.Westernmost pert of Souroutou then in sight, bearing N. ½ E.. distant about 5 leagues. About a mile to the; S. Eastward of this shoal, a small breaker was perceived on another shoal, which must either be the southern extremity of the Ontario's Reef, or a rocky patch separated a little way from it: but circumstances prevented Lieut. Davidson from sending a boat to examine them.

Geo. Site of Cirencester's Shoal.

CIRENCESTER'S SHOAL, in lat. 2° 54½′ S., lon. 108° 58½′ E., or 2¾; miles West of the Cirencester's Sand Bank, by the chronometers and observations of Captains Ross and Maughan, who examined it, May 14th, 1814, with the surveying ships, Discovery, and Investigator, and found it to bear from the easternmost Montaran Island S. 15° E., distant 25 miles: the least depth found on it was 2 fathoms at low water, and there is probably 3½ fathoms on it at high water: close around, the soundings were 17, 16, and 15 fathoms. The shoal is narrow, and not more than 100 yards in length North and South; it was not discovered by the boats sounding for it, until the rocks were seen under the bottom.

This shoal was first seen by Capt. Halkett, in the Cirencester, November 13th, 1810, when working to the southward with light S. E. winds, and it was perceived by a strong rippling; the boat was sent to sound the place, and found only 2 fathoms water, part of Billiton, or else one of the Montaran Islands being then in sight from the mast-head, bearing about N.W. by W.

Geo. Site of Cirencester's Sand Bank.

CIRENCESTER'S SAND BANK, in lat. 3° 17′ S., lon. 109° 4′ 54″ E., by an observa-

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tion of Jupiter's 1st satellite, taken by Capt. Ross on the bank, and in lon. 109° 1¼ E. by chronometers, bears from the easternmost Montaran Island S. 11½° E., distant 46¾ miles. It is about ⅓ of a mile in extent N. N.W. and S. S. E., and not above 100 yards in breadth, part of it being a bank of white coral, overflowed in the middle at high tide, which then gives it the appearance of two small sandy patches, the largest to the southward. The depth of water increases toward this bank, there being 25 fathoms close off the North end, 32 fathoms off the South point, and 35 fathoms about ¾ of a mile to the westward: with a good look out, it may be seen from the mast-head about 8 miles at low water, but probably not above 3 or 4 miles at high tide.

The Cirencester saw this sand bank, on the same day that she discovered the shoal described above, and about 2 miles to the eastward of it, had very irregular soundings from 16 to 20 fathoms, changing almost at every cast of the lead. When Capt. Ross examined this bank, May 11th, 1814, he found two spars erected on it, supposed to have been placed there by some persons who had been shipwrecked. The ship, Samdany, June 16th, 1812, passed within 1 mile of the West side of this sand bank, and deepened from 14 to 17 fathoms as it was approached, steering S.W.; this ship made it in lon. 109° 10′ E., and agrees with the Cirencester, and Capt. Ross, in making its lat. 3° 17′ S.

Geo. Site of Discovery's Sand Bank.

DISCOVERY'S EASTERN BANK, in lat. 3° 32′ 40″ S., lon. 109° 9′ 43″ E., or 2° 26½′ East from the South Watcher by chronometers, measured by Capt. Ross, in the Company's surveying ship. Discovery, February 14th, 1813, is probably the sand called ENKHUYZER, in Van Keulen's chart; and it might, perhaps, have been here, where the Forbes, privateer, and her Dutch prize were wrecked in the night of the 11th of September, 1806, as the officer sent from the Discovery to examine the bank, found a number of broken bottles with the corks in them. This bank extends about ½ a mile North and South, elevated in the centre about 15 or 20 feet above low water mark, with some coarse grass growing on it, and two small trees destitute of leaves, appeared at a distance like two black rocks on a white sand. The whole of the bank consists of small white coral, which may easily be mistaken for sand; the Discovery at anchor about ½ a mile to the eastward of it had 20 fathoms water, and about 5 miles to the East of it 25 to 29 fathoms. This danger is no doubt, that formerly called St. Clement's Shoal, but its situation was not ascertained, even within 30 miles of latitude.

Geo. Site of Discovery's Western Bank.

DISCOVERY'S WESTERN BANK, in lat. 3° 39′ S., lon. 108° 43′ E., or 1° 59½′ East of the South Watcher by chronometer, was found to be a coral bank, extending North and South about 1 mile, elevated about 15 feet in the centre at low water, but the boat could not land, it being surrounded by a coral reef, on which the surf broke very high, About 1 mile to the eastward of this bank, the Discovery anchored in 20 fathoms soft mud, February 13th, 1813, and to the North and westward of it, the depths were 16 and 17 fathoms.

Geo. Site of Discovery's Reef.

DISCOVERY'S REEF, in lat. 3° 36′ S., lon. 108° 48′ E., distant about 6 miles N. E. by E. from the last mentioned bank, was found not to be 1 mile in extent, with a few rocks above water, and high breakers projecting around them. The Discovery passed about a mile to the southward of this reef in 19 fathoms water, and when it bore North at the distance of 1 mile, the Western Bank was just in sight from the main-top-gallant-yard, bearing W. S.W.

Geo. Site of Shoe Island.

SHOE ISLAND, or PYRAMID, in lat. 3° 47½′ S., lon. 108° 2′ E., or 1° 26½′ East of the South Watcher, by the Discovery's chronometers, lies to the South of Billiton, and 14 leagues to the westward of the lust mentioned shoals; and the soundings between them, are generally from 13 to 17 fathoms. It may be seen 6 or 7 leagues from a ship's deck in clear

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weather; and about 1 mile to the southward of it, lies a large white rock,* with soundings of 16 fathoms at a small distance to the S. S.Westward; and the soundings from hence to the North Watcher, are generally from 12 to 16 fathoms.

White Rock.

A caution.

The shoals described above, which bound the West side of the Carimata Passage, having hitherto been little known, has occasioned the loss of five or six ships since the Ontario was wrecked, but their positions being now well ascertained, they may be easily avoided; indeed, all ships should give them a wide birth in the night, particularly, by borrowing over toward the coast of Borneo, in the East side of the channel.

Isles and dangers, to the East and S. Eastward of Billiton.

BILLITON (exclusive of the islands and dangers before mentioned), is fronted on the East side by several groups of small islands, stretching nearly N. N.W. and S. S. E. about 10 or 11 leagues, most of which are surrounded with, or connected by rocks, sands, and shoals. There is a large range of these islands, in about lat. 3° 8′ S., through which, the Warren Hastings passed, betwixt a long island to the East and a small round one to the West, having extensive reefs projecting from them. The soundings were pretty regular in the channel betwixt the reefs, decreasing to 6 and 5½ fathoms on the West side, and increasing to 13 fathoms abreast of the reef that projects from the easternmost island. There are nine islands to the eastward of this passage, and a greater number on the West side, toward Billiton.

The South end of the island Billiton, is in about lat. 3° 22′ S., to the S. Eastward of which, the southern extremity of the chain of isles and reefs, terminate at the distance of about 9 or 10 leagues from Billiton; consisting mostly of dangerous reefs, with irregular soundings of 10 to 20 fathoms near them. In May, the Warren Hastings found regular tides off the South part of Billiton, setting nearly East and West from 1½ to 2 miles per hour; she passed between the S. E. end of that island and the reefs in the offing, saw breakers on one of them bearing E. 1½ mile distant, then in lat. 3° 36′ S. by observation, with Billiton bearing from N. by E. ½ E. to N. by W. distant 5 or 6 leagues, and a small isle in sight from the mast-head to the E. S. Eastward.

Exclusive of the shoals in the offing, examined by Capt. Ross, there are other shoals nearer to the East coast of Billiton, and in the vicinity of the Montaran Island, also seen by him and other navigators.

Geo. Site of Osterly's north shoal.

Scharvogel's Islands.

OSTERLY'S NORTH SHOAL, one of these, in lat. 3° 19′ S., lon. 108° 40½′ E., miles West of Cirencester's Shoal by chronometers, was found to be a coral bank about 1½ or 2 cables lengths in extent, and very narrow, having a small patch of dry coral on its southern part. The Discovery anchored in 11 fathoms soft ground, and had this shoal bearing East 2 miles, when the boat had from 5 to 7 fathoms rocks on another shoal, bearing S 6° W. from the ship about of a mile, and breakers were seen from the mast-head bearing S. S. E. distant about 4 miles upon a third shoal, under which 18 proas were at anchor, and many eddies were seen around. Extremes of the group of SCHARVOGEL'S ISLANDS then bearing from W. 15½° S. to W. 15° N., the nearest island distant about 8 miles, and a high distant hill W. 45° N., observed lat. 3° 19′ 5″ S.

Montaran Islands.

MONTARAN ISLANDS, which bound the Carimata passage to the S.Westward, consist of three straggling groups, fronting the N. E. part of Billiton, the N.Westernmost of which, called by some TOEKOEKEMOU, lie nearest to the N. E. point of Billiton, and Toekoekemou,† appears as two islands till within 3 leagues of it. This highest of the Mon-

* Shoe Island and its adjoining white rocks, are the Bird Island and White Rock, which were formerly thought to lie much farther to the eastward.

† This is the highest of the Montaran Islands, appearing like a saddle when first seen.

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taran Islands, or Toekoekemou, by the observations of Capt. Ross, is situated in lat. 2° 30¾′ S., lon. 108° 36½′ E., bearing from the West end of Souroutou S. 6° W., distant 48½ miles, and he made it 1° 22½′ E. of the Island St. Barbe by chronometers. It has a high hill on each extreme, and being low in the middle, appears like two small islands when viewed at a considerable distance; but it cannot be mistaken when you are 5 or 6 leagues to the northward, as none of the low islands near it, are seen at that distance. Close to the North point of this High Saddle Island, lies an islet covered with bushes, and they are united by a reef which extends about 1½ mile to the northward: a reef projects also from the South point of the island about ½ a mile; and a small round island with a white beach, surrounded by a reef, lies about 1 mile to the westward of the High Saddle Island; and S. by E. from it about 2½ miles, there are three low id ands, with apparently much broken water about them, ands dry sand bank about 2 miles to the westward: there is also a high white sand bank about 4 miles to the S. Eastward of the three last mentioned islands.

Geo. Site of N. Westernmost, or High Saddle Island.

Contiguous and dangers.

Southern group.

About half way between the High Saddle Island and the westernmost island, in the next group to the eastward, lies a dangerous reef of rocks, very little above water, which appeared very shoal near the islands: another reef with a small white bank on it, lies about W. by S. from the Eastern Montaran Island, and E. 60° N. from the low flat island of the middle group. All this part seems dangerous near to these islands, and a ship should not borrow nearer than to bring the High Saddle Island W. ½ S., or she may get into shoal water. The southernmost group of these islands, is in about lat. 2° 35′ S., and when approached in September 1809, by the Fox frigate, it appeared to be inhabited, and the water very shoal around,* for the Malays were observed pushing a boat with poles, although 3 miles off the islands; other boats were also seen, with people upon the shore.

Geo. Site of the easternmost Montaran Island.

EASTERNMOST MONTARAN ISLAND, in lat. 2° 30¾′ S., lon. 108° 51¾′. E. by the observations and chronometers of Capt. Ross, in the Discovery, and bearing from the West end of Souroutou S. 13° E., distant 50 miles, is about ⅓ of a mile in extent North and South, and surrounded with a high sandy beach, as is likewise the next adjoining small island. An officer from the Discovery, landed on the easternmost island, where he observed the latitude, and took the following bearings. Carimata from N. 2½° E. to N. 5° E., the peak N. 3¼° E.; a sand bank S. 64½° E., which is about 3 or 4 miles distant from the island; the small and nearest island S. 25¼° W.; the two hills on the High Saddle Island W.1½° S., and W. 4½° S.; extremes of the easternmost island of the next group from S. 39½° W. to S. 42° W.; and two small distant hills S. 63½° W, and S. 65½° W. supposed to be on Billiton. The above bearing of Carimata Peak, makes the easternmost Montaran Island 3¼ miles West of that peak, or in lon. 108° 51¼′ E., corresponding very nearly with the chronometers.

A passage between two of the groups.

Betwixt two of the groups of the Montaran Islands, the Warren Hastings, of Calcutta, found a safe passage in 1789, and had soundings from 17 to 26 fathoms: when the extremes of the islands bore from E. ½ N. to S.W. by W. distant from the nearest 4 or 5 miles, a long reef of sand and breakers bore from N.W. to W. S.W. about ¾ or a mile, near to which she had unchored in 7 fathoms in the night.

Currents or tides in the Carimata Passage.

CURRENTS, the Carimata Passage, appear to set mostly to the southward in the northerly monsoon, for many ships have found it almost impracticable to beat to the north-

* It appears to have been upon one of the reefs off these islands, that the Abercrombie was lost, July 26th, 1812, a fine ship of 1200 tons burthen, belonging to Bombay, on her first voyage to China. She was steering N.W. by N. in the night (very imprudently) among the dangers that lie off the East coast of Billiton, although the land was seen bearing N.W. at 3 A. M., anti at 5 A. M. she struck on a reef, with rocks dry on it, extending about 1 mile to the N. Westward, which the journal states to be in lat. 2° 29′ S., the centre of Billiton beating S.W. by S.

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ward in that season; and these southerly currents, also prevail to the westward of Billiton. The Grenville, was nearly six weeks in February and March, 1815, getting through Gaspar Straits to the northward, and Capt. Ross, of the Discovery, found a constant southerly current in the Carimata Passage. in 1813; on February 15th, he was off Pulo Mancap, and from hence, continued beating along the West coast of Borneo, and afterward on the South and West sides of Carimata and its adjacent islands, until March 16th, when he got round the West end of Souroutou.

In the southerly monsoon, it does not appear to be so difficult to get to the southward, for there are regular tides along the West coast of Borneo, and also off the East coast of Billiton in this season, which seem to extend in some degree, across the Carimata Passage, the flood apparently setting 12 hours to the N.Westward, and the ebb about 12 hours in the opposite direction; the rise of tide about 9 or 10 feet on the ground, at full and change of the moon, as experienced by Capt. Ross, in May, 1814.

The snow Luconia, left Mampava, May 14th, 1776, passed to the West of Souroutou, anchoring when the current or tide was unfavorable, the wind generally from South to S. E.: June 6th, she passed a shoal above water, in about lat. 3° 25′ S. bearing East 3 miles, then in 21 fathoms fine sand (probably the Discovery's eastern bank), and June 9th, she arrived at Batavia.

Directions for sailing through it.

If coming from the N.W. toward the Carimata Passage, and having approached Souroutou, pass the latter at the distance of 5 or 6 leagues, if you intend to pass outside of the Ontario's. Shoal. Having brought Souroutou to bear N. E., steer S. E. by S. and S. S. E. to give a birth to the Ontario's Shoal; and keep the West end of Souroutou to the East of N. ¾ E., until past it, or 3½ leagues to the South of Souroutou; or sink the Nest end of this island from the deck of a large ship bearing about N. by E.; continuing this course, you will see the it Montaran Islands if the weather is favorable, pass to the eastward of them at 5 or 6 leagues distance. From this situation, a S. E. by S. course continued, will lead in the fair track, betwixt the Cirencester's and Discovery's shoals on the West side of the channel, and those shoals on the East side which extend S. S.W. from Pulo Mancap: you ought not in this track, to borrow under 15½ or 16 fathoms toward the Mancap Shoals, nor deepen above 20 fathoms toward the dangers on the West side of the channel, although the soundings are irregular, and not a sufficient guide in some parts of the passage. If not certain of the longitude, the best guide is to borrow toward the coast of Borneo, so as to get a sight of the land, if circumstances admit, and after passing Rendezvous Island, haul out to the S. Westward to avoid Mancap Shoals.

Directions for passing inside of the Ontario's shoal, and past Mancap shoals.

But the best track for ships bound to the southward, particularly in cloudy weather, is to pass inside of the Ontario's shoal, by keeping within 3 or 4 leagues of Souroutou, until its western extremity is brought to bear N. ¼ W. or N. ½ W.; then observing to keep it to the westward of N. ¼ W., in steering to the S. S. Eastward, until you have passed the shoal. In proceeding to the southward, borrow toward the eastern side of the passage, where the soundings will generally be from 17 to 14 fathoms within from 10 to 7 leagues of the coast of Borneo, deepening in some places as you approach the shoals on the West side of the passage, but not always a certain guide; and when to the southward of Rendezvous Island, the depths will increase to 19, 20, or 21 fathoms irregular soundings, when about 10 or 11 leagues to the S.Westward of Pulo Mancap, which is as near as any large ship ought to approach the shoals, that extend far out from it in this direction, already described above.

and from thence to the straits East of Java.

Having got into about lat. 3° 50′ S., in soundings not less than 19 or 20 fathoms, a S. E. course may be steered to pass to the westward of Lubec, if bound through any of the straits East of Java; as the wind prevailing sometimes at W. S.W., renders it necessary to approach the coast of Madura, to be enabled to round its eastern extremity, and proceed to the southward betwixt the Islands Pondy and Galion. When through this passage, either of the

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adjacent straits may be chosen. Bally Strait being narrow at the northern part, and destitute of safe anchorage, is seldom used. Although Lombock Strait is wider, the current runs generally strong through it to the northward, making the passage by it, sometimes tedious and difficult. The Brunswick, Minerva, and Chesterfield, were from the 15th to the 30th January, 1794, beating in this strait, and drifted about by the currents, before they cleared Banditti Island; their people were also fatigued, and their sails beat to pieces by the squally weather. The Bellona in company, not sailing so well as those ships, could not get through; she therefore, bore away, passed round the North end of Lombock, and without any difficulty, proceeded to the southward through Allass Strait. This strait should be chosen by ships in the N.W. monsoon, which have proceeded through the Carimata Passage, and are bound out into the open sea by any of the straits near the East end of Java.

To sail from Mancap Shoals toward the strait of Macassar.

When bound toward the strait of Macassar, and being in about lath 3° 50′ S., clear to the southward of the extremity of Mancap Shoals, an E. by S. course will lead you along the South coast of Borneo, at a moderate distance from it, in soundings of 18 or 19, to 2.5 fathoms; do not approach it under these depths, until soundings of 12, 14, or 15 fathoms are got on the bank off Point Salatan.

South coast of Borneo.

This point bears E. ½ S. from the southern extremity of Mancap Shoals, distant 92 leagues, and nearly mid-way between them, lies Flat Point hi lat. 3° 31′ S., which with most parts of the coast, may be occasionally approached to 8 or 10 fathoms in working. This coast is indented by several bays, fronted in most places by a bank of sand; particularly the great bay to the westward of Point Salatan, is occupied by a shoal bank, which stretches more than 20 leagues about W. ½ N. from that point; and some of the shoal patches with 3 or 4 fathoms water on them, are 11 or 12 leagues off the coast. One patch in lat. 4° 0′ S., is partly dry, with 16 fathoms near it, and the land of Borneo is just visible from it bearing N. E. ¼ N. Close to Point Salatan, on the West side, there is a channel of 12 and 10 fathoms water, stretching about N. by E., and decreasing gradually to 2 fathoms at the entrance of BENJAR MASSEEN RIVER, formerly a place of considerable trade, which was carried on with Benjar Masseen Town, situated 7 or 8 leagues inside of the bar of the river. In the bight, about 3 leagues to the S. Eastward of the mouth of Benjar Masseen River, is situated Ross' River, which stretches inland to the N. Eastward, and has excellent timber for ship building in its vicinity. At this place, Capt. J. C. Ross, with the assistance of the natives, only, built the ship Borneo of 420 tons, in 1819, in which he has made several voyages to England, and she is considered to be a sound well built ship. Tehonas River lies farther to the southward; and another river is situated 7 or 8 miles north of Point Salatan, with Pulo Dato fronting its mouth; all these being on the East side of the bay or channel leading to Benjar Masseen, the bar of which is in about lat. 3° 25′ S., lon. 114° 38′ E. BORNEO GREAT RIVER, very little known, is situated about mid-way between Flat Point and Point Salatan, or about 30 leagues to the westward of Benjar Masseen River, nearly in the bottom of a considerable bay, having the Datoo Mandayee group of islands fronting its entrance, which is said to be very wide, and the river extends far inland, issuing from the Great Lake in the centre of Borneo, not far front Keeney Balioo.

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EASTERN PASSAGE to CHINA, through the STRAIT of MACASSAR.

DIRECTIONS FOR APPROACHING IT FROM SOUTHWARD, AND TO SAIL FROM BATAVIA THROUGH THE STRAIT: ADJACENT HEADLANDS, ISLANDS, AND DANGERS.

General remarks relative to the route by the Strait of Macassar.

SHIPS proceeding from Europe, or from Hindoostan, toward China by the eastern passage, frequently adopt the route through the strait of Macassar. Directions for the former to approach the straits East of Java, are given in the First Volume of this work; under the head of "Sailing Directions from St. Paul toward the N.W. Cape of New Holland," &c., and also in the following section; and for the latter, in this Volume, directions will be found at the beginning of the section, entitled "Sailing Directions to, and from the Strait of Sunda," &c.

Strong southerly currents from December to March.

Although some ships have made quick passages to the northward, through the Strait of Macassar, others have been embarrassed, and greatly delayed by the adverse winds and currents. The route, by the Pitt's Passage, and through the Gillolo Passage, or Dampier's Strait, into the Pacific Ocean, may be considered more certain, particularly after the middle of November, when the N.W. monsoon prevails South of the equator. In part of December, January, and February, the latter route is certainly preferable, for adverse winds, and strong currents setting constantly southward through the Strait of Macassar in the two latter months, ought to deter every ship from entering it, when bound to the northward.

In the Anna, we rounded Pulo Laut, January 16th, 1793, and did not reach Cape Donda until the 5th of March; the wind being constantly from northward, with strong southerly currents, we were forty days gaining the distance of about 116 leagues. An American ship in the strait at the same time, bound to Manilla, considering the passage impracticable, returned to Batavia.

The Canada, bound from Madras to Macao with despatches, reached Cape Donda in February, 1792; after beating three weeks, and gaining no ground, she stood to the northward with a N. Easterly wind, passed through a narrow channel in 5½ to 7 fathoms mud, betwixt two of the islands on the East side of Sooloo, then through the Mindora sea, between the Calamianes and Apo Bank, and along the West coast of Luconia, having made a quick passage from Cape Donda to Macao.

The Laurel, from Bengal, bound to Macao, passed Pulo Laut, March 2d, 1788, went along the Celebes side of the strait, and reached Cape Donda on the 22d, having experienced strong southerly currents about the equator. She left Cape Rivers, March 24th, passed between Baseelan and Mindanao, then through the Mindora sea, and did not reach Goat Island until the 17th of April.

The Hindostan and Abergavenny, were four weeks from Carimata to Cape Donda, which they passed, December 16th, 1799.

Quick passages have been made through the Strait in October and November.

OCTOBER AND NOVEMBER, are considered proper months for the passage through Macassar Strait.

The Arniston having cleared Lombock Strait, November 1st, 1797, passed to the eastward of Hastings Island, Little and Great Pulo Laut; from the latter, she stood over to the eastward for the Celebes side of Macassar Strait, where she got a southerly wind on the 9th, passed Cape Donda on the 11th, had constant easterly currents till the 21st, then in lat. 6° 18′ N., lon. 135° 50′ E., and made a very quick passage to Macao. She left the Cape of

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Good Hope, September 26th, and passed through Lombock Strait, October 31st, with a fair wind.*

The Dublin and fleet, in October, 1798, were only a few days in passing through Macassar Strait. The Contractor and part of the fleet, which had separated, passed Pulo Laut, October 14th, and cleared Cape Donda on the 19th.

The contrary sometimes happens.

Notwithstanding speedy passages have been made through the strait of Macassar in October and November, and are generally expected in these months, the contrary sometimes has been experienced, particularly by the Woodford. This ship was off Pulo Laut, October 13th, 1803, and proceeded along the Borneo side of the strait, experienced light airs and calms, with a current setting 1½ mile per hour to the southward, which obliged her to anchor frequently in lat. 2° S. to 1° S. Having reached Cape Donda, November 9th, in lat. 0° 47′ N., she was carried back by the currents to lat. 1° 0′ S., where she anchored on the 16th, in 9½ fathoms mud, about 3 leagues off the Borneo shore. On the 19th, she anchored in 6½ fathoms, with the S. E. point of Pamaroong Island E. N. E., and the opening betwixt it and the main, or entrance of Gooty River N. N. E., distant 6 or 7 miles: the two cutters were sent to Gooty for rice, but could find no such place.† From hence, she proceeded to Passier, anchored there on the 22d, and got 133 bags of rice, some sago, and fruit; she sailed again on the 30th, found the southerly current still prevailing, which prevented her reaching Cape Rivers until the 24th of December; so that this ship was two months and three days getting through the Strait of Macassar, excluding seven days she remained at Passier. Had she been on the Celebes side, probably the current would have been weaker, particularly near the shore; but the difficulty experienced by the Woodford, shews that the passage to the northward through the Strait of Macassar, is sometimes precarious, even in the favorable season.

The Royal George, and David Scott, left Malacca, October 26th, 1812, proceeded through the Carimata Passage, and having experienced light S. Easterly winds, did not reach the Dwaalder Island till the 26th of November. From hence, they had northerly winds and a southerly current, which obliged them to anchor frequently, and they did not reach Pamaroong Island till the 8th of December; here a strong southerly wind fortunately commenced, which carried them to Siao in 50 hours: but from the adverse winds and currents experienced by these ships, so early as November and the beginning of December, Captain Gribble of the Royal George, considers the route to China by the Strait of Macassar, at all times precarious. They passed to the eastward of the Philippine Islands, and reached Macao Road, January 10th, 1813: had they adopted the Palawan Passage after leaving the Strait of Malacca, they would probably have arrived six weeks sooner in Macao Road.

To approach the Strait of Macassar, when coming from the southward.

SHIPS bound toward the Strait of MACASSAR, which have come through Bally Strait, in September, or October, should proceed to the northward between Pondy and Galion; then giving a birth to the western extremity of Kalkoon Isles and Shoals, they may steer to pass on either side of Little Pulo Laut, as the winds may render advisable.

* The Coutts and Cirencester, left Sapy Strait, October 27th, the same year, proceeded by Salayer Straits and the Pitt's Passage, where the winds were variable, sometimes easterly, being too early in the season. They got clear of Dampier's Strait, November 17th, made the Bashee Islands, December 6th, and reached Canton River about eight days after the Arniston.

† Gooty, or Koote River's entrance, is a little to the southward of the above-mentioned island, but the town is situated far up the river. Capt. Robert Scott, in 1797, had his vessel cut off by the Manila Helmsmen (who were part of the crew), while at anchor off the entrance of Gooty River, and the European officers were killed by them. The Commander being at the town when these pirates carried away the vessel, he was forced to remain at Gooty until the change of the monsoon, where he was treated with hospitality, being known to the chief of that place, and he afterward arrived safe at Malacca in one of the trading proas.

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Those from Lombock Strait, should steer N. N. Eastward, to pass betwixt the westernmost Pater-Nosters and Hastings Island, or just in sight of the latter; then to the northward, for the Two Brothers, and Great Pulo Laut.

Ships from Allass Strait, may steer N. N.W. and northward to make Hastings Island, and pass to the eastward of it, as in the case last mentioned.

Ships which come through Sapy Strait in the same months, may pass either to the eastward or westward of the Postillions, as winds or other circumstances require; then proceed to the northward betwixt Tanakeka and the Tonyn Islands, giving a birth afterward to the Spermonde Archipelago of Isles and Shoals, which stretch N. Westward from the bay of Macassar; but in this track, great caution is indispensable, on account of the dangers around.

When to sail from Hindoostan, and tracks to be pursued by ships bound to China by the Eastern Passage.

SHIPS from HINDOOSTAN bound to China by the Eastern Passage, ought if Possible, to sail in October or November, that they may be enabled to reach China in sufficient time, to return down the China sea by the common track.

Those which sail from Hindoostan after the early part of December, if to proceed by the Eastern Passage, can hardly be expected to arrive at China in sufficient time to return down the China sea with the N. E. monsoon, although some solitary instances to the contrary may occur.

Ships from Bengal, bound to China by the Eastern Passage, have the option of proceeding by Malacca Strait and the Carimata Passage, or to the westward of Sumatra, as circumstances require: although the route by Malacca Strait, and the Palawan Passage, then along the West coast of Luconia, seems preferable for ships leaving Bengal during the whole of the N. E. monsoon, as they will probably reach China sooner by this route than by any of the circuitous Eastern Passages.

Those from the Malabar coast, Ceylon, or the southern parts of the Coromandel coast, may steer to pass on the South side of Java, then through any of the straits to the eastward of it: or in time of peace, the track by Sunda Strait, and to, the eastward between Java and Borneo, may be adopted; which is considered equally safe, and more direct than the route to the South of Java, although the winds are steadier outside.* Having entered Sunda Strait, the track by the North Watcher, to the northward of the Thousand Islands, may be pursued; or they may touch at Batavia for a supply of water or provisions, when absolutely necessary.

Cautions in steering eastward through the Java Sea.

To sail from Edam toward the Strait of Maeassar.

SHIPS PROCEEDING TO THE EASTWARD, betwixt JAVA and BORNEO, ought to be guarded against sudden severe squalls, which frequently blow furiously during the strength of the N.W. monsoon; particularly in December and January, when the weather is generally cloudy, with much rain. Leaving the Island Edam in these months, steer about E. N. E. 40 leagues, if observations are not obtained, to be certain of passing to the northward of the reef that lies off Bumkin's Island, and also to pass clear of Carimon Java; for in this season, the current sets sometimes to the E. S. Eastward, as far as Lubeck, or to the Solombos; then about E. N. E., toward the entrance of the strait of Macassar. From Edam, the Island Moresses bears E. 10° N., distant about 184 leagues; steering E. N. E. from the former, the depth increases to 28 or 30 fathoms at the distance of 40 leagues. From Mecauar. hence, steering between E. by N. and East, depths from 30 to 34 fathoms will be found, until within 40 or 45 leagues of Tanjong Salatan; steering on about E. ½ N., the depth of

* Ships from the Malabar coast, or western parts of India, ought not to attempt the passage through Malacca Strait. The Anna left Bombay, October 22d, 1806, proceeded by Malacca Strait, and the Carimata Passage; and January 7th, in the Pitt's Passage, she fell in with the ship Alexander, which came through Allass Strait, having left Bombay, November 21st, or 30 days after the Anna.

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water will gradually decrease to 14 or 15 fathoms when Tanjong Salatan is abreast about 7 leagues distance. Care must be taken to avoid the Arrogant's Shoal, situated in lat. 5° 12′ S., about 14 leagues to the northward of Lubeck.

Geo. Site of Tagjong Salatan: the adjoining coast.

TANJONG SALATAN, in lat. 4° 10′ S., lon. 114° 42′ E., by stars on each side of the moon, or 26 leagues to the westward of Moresses, is the southernmost point of Borneo, and the high land over it called Goonong Ratoos, or Hundred Mountains, appears like islands when seen 10 or 12 leagues off; this high land forms a ridge of peaked hills stretching East toward Pulo Laut, but close to the sea, the coast is low and woody.

Depth to preserve in passing it.

The coast hereabout may be approached to 9 or 10 fathoms, but 14 fathoms is a good depth to preserve in passing Tanjong Salatan, and from thence eastward to Moresses, it may be approached to 7 or 8 fathoms: the former ought not to be passed at a greater distance than 8, or at most 10 leagues, for the Island Arentes on the South side of the passage, is situated farther westward than generally represented; and to the westward of this island there is a rocky spot, on which an American ship struck in January, 1794, according to the account of the pilot of that ship, which we fell in with a few days after, in the strait of Macassar: they had 18 fathoms just before and after striking, and one cast of 5 fathoms immediately after the shock; the track of 18 fathoms, ought therefore, to be avoided.

Little Pulo Laut Group;

LITTLE PULO LAUT,* LOUT, or LAUROT ISLANDS, are mostly high, and form a group stretching nearly from lat. 4° 43′ S., to 5° 0′ S. Within a mile of the southernmost, there are 16 fathoms water, but the shore is rocky. The Laurel anchored in 20 fathoms, on the N.W. side of the northernmost island, about a mile off shore, where she remained two days, and filled up her water. It was procured at some deep holes or wells, which received a stream of water, situated under a shade of trees at the foot of the mountain: as the long boat was prevented by rocks from getting nearer than twenty yards of the beach, the people were obliged to carry the water to her in buckets; firewood was got close to the beach. Some breakers project a little way from the N. E. end of this island.

Geo. Site of Moresses; ides and contiguous channels.

MORESSES, or MANEVASA, in lat. 4° 25′ S., lon. 116° 3′ E. by lunar observations, situated about 8 leagues to the N. N. Eastward of the northernmost Little Pulo Laut, forms like a pyramid in a regular peak at the summit; and it is the largest of a group of three small islands, having three or four islets or rocks above water, contiguous to them. They lie near each other, the large island in the centre, which ought not to be approached nearer than 3 miles in the night, for the outermost islet or rock is about 1½ mile to the southward of the large island, and is on with the body of it bearing N. N.W. ½ W. The channels on either side of Moresses are safe, with regular soundings in the northern one, of 14 and 15 fathoms water: the southern channel, betwixt it and Little Pulo Laut Islands, is 6 or 7 leagues wide, and more frequented than the other, with soundings of 18 fathoms in mid-channel. When passing through with a N.W. wind, it is proper to borrow on the North side, toward Moresses.

Geo. Site of Dwaalder Island.

DWAALDER ISLAND, in lat. 4° 12′ S., lon. 116° 21′ E., bearing N. 54° E., distant 7½ leagues from Moresses, is woody, small and low; being higher at the East and West ends than in the middle, it appears in the form of a saddle, when viewed from the southward; and from its eastern part, a reef projects out about the length of the island. The passage to the northward of the Dwaalder is safe, with soundings of 13 to 15 fathoms; but the southern channel between it and the Two Brothers is generally used, being about 4½ or 5 leagues wide, with soundings of 15 and 16 fathoms in mid-channel, and 13 or 14 fathoms near the Dwaalder.

* i. e. Sea Islands.

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Royal George Shoal.

ROYAL GEORGE SHOAL, in lat. 4° 17½′ S., was examined by Capt. Gribble, with the boats of the ship of this name. November 25th, 1812, having suddenly got into ¼ less 5 fathoms water on it, when proceeding toward China by the Strait of Macassar. This shoal seemed to be nearly circular, about of a mile in extent; when upon its centre, in 4½ fathoms; Dwaalder Island bore W. ¾ S., distant about 3 leagues, Button Rock N.½ E., about 7 miles, the South end of Pulo Laut N.W. by W., and the least water found on it was 4½ fathoms.

Geo. Site of the Two Brothers.

TWO BROTHERS, in lat. 4° 26′ S., lon. 116° 32′ E., being nearly East from Moresses, distant 9½ leagues, and S. S. E. ¾ E. from the Dwaalder; are two small, low, round islands, connected by a reef, with several thick bushy trees on them, and are open with each other bearing E. by N. ½ N.

Contiguous to the South point of Great Pulo Laut, there are three small islands of moderate height; the BUTTON, a round islet or rock, is situated near the East side of the southernmost island, having 11 and 12 fathoms near it on the outside, which is the proper channel; these isles lie about 5 leagues N. Eastward from the Dwaalder.

Inner Channel between the isles off the South end of pulo Laut.

INNER CHANNEL, formed betwixt the middle and southernmost of the small islands mentioned above, is rather too narrow for large ships, and should not be followed unless in a case of necessity, with a commanding breeze in day-light. The snows, Betsey, and Experiment, bound to the N.W. coast of America, went through it, February 16th, 1786; and Capt. Betham, of the Wellington, from China, bound to England, came through it, September 1st, 1815, from whose journal the following remarks are taken. At noon, after passing the Alike Islands, perceived at 3 P. M. that we could not weather the Button, and having the passage open to leeward between the southernmost and middle islands, bore away for it, and at 4, entered between the islands. A reef extends a considerable way toward the Button, and we shoaled regularly from 18 to 6¾ fathoms, which was the least water we had in the channel: a reef also stretches from the West point of South Island, toward the Dwaalder, a great way out; and a small isle, united by a ridge of rocks just above water, to South Island, might, in coming from the eastward, be mistaken for the Dwaalder, being somewhat like it; the two northern islands, also, when first seen bearing S.W. by W., have the appearance of the Two Brothers. When steering for the passage, borrow toward the northern island, as shoal water appears to extend from the N. E. end of South Island a long way to the northward: when the small isle mentioned, contiguous to the West end of South Island, is shut in with the West point of the latter, haul to the southward, as a reef appears to project far out from the S.W, point of Pulo Laut, where we shoaled from 10, to 9, 8, 7, and 6 fathoms, keeping a lead going on each side. At ½ past 5 P. M. we were through this passage, the Moresses bearing S.W. 5 or 6 leagues, which seems safe with a fair wind in the day, the narrowest part from land to land, being apparently about a mile wide.

Great Pulo Laut.

GREAT PULO LAUT, is extensive, and from its South point a reef of breakers projects almost to the nearest island; the East coast seems free from danger, with mud soundings generally of 13 to 15 fathoms about 2 or 3 leagues off, and 20 or 22 fathoms about 8 leagues off shore. Abreast of the Alike Islands, contiguous to the shore of Pulo Laut, there are several small isles; the outermost is about 2 miles off, and bears West a little southerly from the Alike Islands. From the N. E. point of Pulo Laut, a reef projects, but the point may be rounded about 1½ mile distant, in 8 to 10 fathoms, by ships that intend to fill up their water in the deep bay formed betwixt the point and the North end of the island, This bay is sheltered from all winds but those between North and East, and the soundings are regular to the watering place under the high land on the West side, where a ship may anchor abreast of it in 6 fathoms about 1½ mile off shore, with the N, E. point of the bay bearing E. by S.

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¼ S., and a small island covered with trees S. E.; this island lies on the East side of the bay, and has a shoal fronting it. Oysters may be got at the watering place, and the woods abound with wild hogs and deer.

Watering place.

Geo. Site.

The North end of Great Pulo Laut, I made in lat. 3° 13′ S., the N. E. point in lat. 3° 23′ S., lon. 116° 41′ E. by chronometers and lunar observations. The East side of the island is moderately elevated, sloping with a gradual declivity toward the N. E.. point; the N.W. part is very high land.

The narrow strait formed betwixt the coast of Borneo and this island, is navigable by boats, or small vessels, hut no ship should attempt to pass through it. Europeans ought to be cautious if they land on Pulo Laut, for Captain Alves, in the ship London, was cut off there.

Geo. Site of the Alike Islands.

Geo. Site of a Dry Sand Bank.

THREE ALIKE ISLANDS. in lat. 3° 41′ S., lon. 116° 54′ E. by chronometers and lunar observations, bearing N. 47° E. from the Dwaalder, distant 15 leagues, named from their resemblance to each other, and called also Maragalongs, form a small group of 3* islands, exclusive of an islet and some contiguous rocks; they may be seen from the deck at 5 or 6 leagues distance. The channel between them and Pulo Laut is 4 and 5 leagues wide, and clear of danger, with regular depths of 16 or 17 fathoms in the middle, to 13 fathoms within a mile of the West side of the islands, These islands are also safe, to approach on the outside, having from 20 to 22 fathoms water, about 2 or 3 leagues off; but in lat. 3° 37′ S., lon. 117° 48′ E., there is a Dry Sand Bank† about 17 or 18 leagues to the eastward of them, with a Coral Bank of 6 fathoms or less, about 2 leagues S. S.W. from the sand bank. In the fair track, from between the Two Brothers and Dwaalder to the Alike Islands, the soundings are mostly 16 to 18 fathoms, from 4 to 6 leagues off Pulo Laut.

Strait of Macassar; general remark.

STRAIT OF MACASSAR, is about 115 leagues in length from the South end of Great Pulo Laut to Point Kanneeoogan, and generally 45 to 35 leagues wide; except where it is contracted by the great projection of this point, to 17 leagues at the North entrance. Between lat. 2° and 3° S., the strait is separated into two channels, by the archipelago of isles and shoals, called Little Pater Nosters: the width of the western channel is 10 or 11 leagues, and the eastern one 15 or 16 leagues wide, but there are some dangers in the former, which is nevertheless much frequented, and preferred to the other, having moderate depths along the coast of Borneo for anchoring occasionally, as far as lat. 1° N.; whereas, the coast of Celebes is steep to, in many places, and destitute of anchorage. The Arniston, and other ships, which passed along the Celebes side in October or November, got speedily through the strait; and there is reason to think, that this will generally be found the quickest route, for light southerly breezes prevail at times on this side, when the wind is different near the Borneo Shore; and when strong southerly currents prevailed in the middle of the strait in January and February, we found their velocity decrease a little, as we approached close to the Celebes Shore.

To sail by the Celebes Coast.

TO SAIL ALONG THE CELEBES SIDE OF THE STRAIT, ships coming from the South or westward, in the westerly monsoon, ought to approach the S. E. part of Great Pulo Laut, as if they were to proceed along the Borneo side. From hence, an E. by N. to E. N. E course should be steered, to make the coast of Celebes at, or a little to the northward of Cape Mandhar; also to give a birth to the Triangles and the Union's Shoal to the northward, and to those seen by the Laurel and Waller, to the southward: the lead should be kept going in this track, that, if possible, the approach to any of the shoals may be known.

* Called Pulo Ampat's, or Four Islands, by the Malays; the small islet making that number.

† Seen by Captain Hunter, in his voyage from Port Jackson to Batavia, in 1791. It is very small, and may probably be covered at high water.

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Ships coming from the southward in the easterly monsoon, should steer to pass between the island Tanakeka and the S. W. part of Celebes, if they intend to touch at Macassar for refreshments.

Geo. Site of the Laurel's Shoal.

LAUREL'S SHOAL, called BATO BONTONGA by the Malays, is in about lat. 4° 32′ S., lon. 117° 15′ E., distant 14 or 15 leagues eastward of the Two Brothers, by the journal of Capt. Cheminant, of the Laurel. This shoal appears to be situated on the edge of soundings, which extend from it to Pulo Laut and the adjoining islands: the Laurel, March 2d, 1788, steering eastward with light airs, in 35 fathoms soft ground, shoaled suddenly to 7 fathoms coral rock; anchored immediately, had 41 fathoms, and less 4 fathoms was found by the boat, a little to the southward under the ship's stern, the current then setting nearly 1 mile per hour in that direction; and to the eastward, the depth increased to 16 fathoms about ½ a mile distant. The coral rocks being sharp pointed, and the ship pitching deep with the N. E. swell, when at 8 P. M. the weather threatening, and a breeze commencing at N. N. E., hove short, then cut the cable, but before the ship got head way, had 3 fathoms rocks, and afterward, several casts of 4 to 6 fathoms. Steering to the eastward the depth increased to 10 fathoms, then to 20, 30, and 35, soft bottom, next cast no ground with 50 fathoms.

Captain Hunter got on the tail of this shoal, and wade it in lat. 4° 35′ S., lon. 117° 19′ E. by lunar observation.

Waller's Shoals.

Geo. Site.

Noesa Seras, Geo. Site.

The Laurel's Shoal, is probably the tail of one of those seen by Lieut. Davidson, of the Waller brig, April 29th, 1803, extending between lat. 4° 30′ and 4° 37′ S.; which vessel passed over the tail of a coral shoal at 7 P. M., on which the bottom was clearly seen, but she had only three casts from 9 to 14 fathoms, then no ground 40 fathoms. About 3 miles farther to the southward, she got on the edge of another shoal, apparently dangerous, the sharp pointed coral rocks being seen under the bottom; she had from 8 to 15 fathoms on the edge of it, then no ground 22 fathoms. About 4 miles more to the southward, she got on the edge of a third shoal in 9 and 10 fathoms rugged coral rocks, then no ground; to avoid these shoals, the sails were thrown a-back immediately when they were discovered. Upon the edge of the southernmost of the WALLER'S SHOALS, at noon observed the lat. 4° 37′ S., lon. 117° 8′ E. by chronometers, and 117° 7′ E., by observations of ? ? taken at 3 P. M. after running 4 leagues S. ¾ W. from noon. At this time the four islands Noesa Seras, were seen from the mast-head, and at 6 P. M. they bore E. by S. ½ S., distant 4 leagues: they are low woody islands, may be seen 7 leagues, and by these observations, are in lat. 5° 2′ S., lon. 117° 9′ E.

Geo. Site of the Triangles.

TRIANGLES, or LARRE LAREEN, are three very small isles, situated about mid-strait between Celebes and Borneo, the two northernmost, in lat. 3° 1′ S, lon. 117° 53′ E. The other, in lat. 3° 5′ S., bearing S. ½ W. from them, is a small sandy isle with a few bushes on it, one of these being very conspicuous in the centre, and breakers extend from this isle to the others. Regular soundings of 23 to 27 fathoms, stretch from the East side of Pulo Laut to these isles, and the depths are 22 or 23 fathoms to the South, and to the eastward of them, from 3 miles to 3 leagues distance: soundings also extend from them northward to the Little Pater Nosters.

Soundings, and coral banks.

When 6 or 7 leagues to the eastward of these islands, there are no more soundings obtained in steering toward the coast of Celebes, but there appear to be one or two coral banks, the situation of which is imperfectly known. The Union had 7 and 8 fathoms on a coral bank, about 8 leagues to the eastward of the Triangles, in lat. 3° 2′ S.; and the Laurel had three casts of 16 and 17 fathoms coral rock, then no ground 60 fathoms, with the land of Cape William rising in small hills, and bearing E. by N. northerly, distant about 11 leagues. The Coutts and fleet, returning from China, in July, 1801, kept on the Celebes side of the

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strait, had soundings of 27 fathoms about 11 or 12 leagues to the S.Westward of Cape William; and steering S.W. by S. about 13 miles, carried soundings from 25 to 30 fathoms, then no ground 40 fathoms. Although, possibly, the soundings experienced by those ships, were on a continued bank of considerable extent, yet it is more probable, that there are several patches hereabout; for that on which the Laurel had soundings, seems to be a small spot, considerably to the northward of the bank where the Coutts sounded upon.

Geo. Site of Macassar.

MACASSAR TOWN, or CASTLE ROTTERDAM, the chief settlement of the Dutch on the Island Celebes, is in lat. 5° 9′ S., lon. 119° 36′ E. by lunar observations. This place being encompassed with numerous shoals and small isles, the navigation toward it is thereby rendered intricate. If a ship find it necessary to touch here for refreshments, the best channel is from the S.Westward, betwixt the Spermonde Archipelago and the islands and shoals of Tanakeka, or that between the latter island and Celebes is the best if coming from the southward, keeping mid-channel toward the island; but a boat will be required to sound a-head if unacquainted, as the bottom is mostly coral in the channels, with great overfalls. Provisions and refreshments of various kinds, abound at Macassar.

The anchorage is abreast of the town, in 7 or 8 fathoms, inside of Great Lyly Isle and shoal; and the channel leading to it is from southward, by keeping near the shore to avoid the Lyly Shoal, but a birth must be given to a sunken rock, that lies off the point about 4 miles S. S.W. from the town.

A rock in the channel leading to Macassar Road was explored, July 8th, 1813, and when upon it in 6 feet water, the house on Lyly, and Rajah Bony's House, were in one with Gon River bearing S. E., and two White Pillars E. N. E. By keeping Lyly open of Rajah Bony's House, on either side, you will pass clear of this danger, which was found to extend North and South about three ship's lengths, and about a cables' length N.W. by W. and S. E. by E., with 2½ and 3 fathoms water at ½ a cables' length distance from it.

Geo. Site of Cape Mandhar.

CAPE MANDHAR, in lat. 3° 35′ S. by the Arniston's observations,* and in lon. 119° 9′ E., is the western extremity of the great bay formed between it and Macassar, in which there is said to be some harbours or places of anchorage. The cape is high land, and all the coast of Celebes froth thence northward, is high and steep, destitute of soundings in most places, until very near the shore. Close to the sea, in some parts, the land is of moderate height, but all mountainous a little way up the country.

Trinder's Shoal.

TRINDER'S SHOAL, seen in the brig Amboyna, by Capt. John Trinder, is described by him as follows. At noon, October 12th, 1804, saw an extensive shoal bearing from South to N.W., the nearest part distant about a mile; no part of it appeared above water, but small breakers were seen in various parts of the shoal, the centre of which is in lat. 2° 59′ S., Cape Mandhar bearing from it S. E. by E., distant 18 miles.

If the latitude assigned above to this shoal is correct, and the relative position of Cape Mandhar, it would place the cape in lat. 3° 9′ S.; but observations taken in the Arniston, made it in lat. 3° 35′ S., which will place the shoal much farther to the southward than the latitude assigned to it above. But its relative situation as given from Cape Mandhar, will be the best guide for avoiding this apparently dangerous shoal; as Capt. Trinder seems not to have examined it closely, its existence is not very satisfactorily ascertained.

Lebaney Bay, watering place.

LEBANEY BAY, on the West coast of Celebes, where H. M. ship, Virginie, watered in 1800, is in lat. 2° 40′ S., in approaching which, a village will be seen close to the beach;

* The Scaleby Castle, bound to China, went along the Celebes coast, and on November 5th, 1814, had Cape Mandhar bearing East at noon, when the observed lat. was 3° 39′ S.

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bring the centre of this E. N. E. by compass, and steer for it; the first soundings will be 70 or 80 fathoms, then suddenly 40 and 30 fathoms. When the North point of the bay bears N. ½ E., and the South point S. by W., the depths will be 28 or 30 fathoms about ¼ mile off the village at the head of the bay; and farther in, the water shoals gradually to 20, 15, and 10 fathoms, sand and shells. The water is excellent at a place close to the beach, about ¼ mile to the southward of the village, where the above named frigate watered in 24 hours; and the Malay Chief, promised to bring buffalos and other stock, if she could have stayed three days in the bay.

Geo. Site of Cape William; the interjacent coast.

CAPE WILLIAM, in lat. 2° 34′ S., lon. 118° 58′ E. by chronometer, is a high projecting headland, having a large bay to the eastward, said to contain some islands and shoals; the isle near the cape, is on with it bearing East. Point Kyl, is 4 or 5 leagues nearly South from Cape William, being the southern extremity of the peninsula that forms the latter cape: and Point Onkona, or Anisone, about 6 leagues farther to the southward, projects a considerable way, by which a bay is formed betwixt it and Point Kyl, and another on the South side.

When Cape William bears East, about 10 or 12 leagues distant, the nearest isle of the Little Pater Nosters is discernible bearing W. by N. ½ N., distant about 5 or 5½ leagues. These isles ought to be avoided, having many shoals in their vicinity, and among them.

Cape Temoel and adjoining coast.

CAPE TEMOEL, or CAPE SAMSA, is the N.W. extremity of a peninsula of high land, projecting a considerable way from the coast to the westward, by which a bay is formed on each side, but they appear to be destitute of soundings. The coast betwixt Cape William and this place is bold and steep; we could get no soundings at the distance of 2 or 3 leagues off it, and probably there is none, except too close to the shore for any useful purpose. There is said, however, to be a place called Koilly, or Kayley, about 13 or 14 leagues to the northward of Cape William, famous for gold, sheep, &c.; but great caution is requisite, in communicating with the inhabitants of this coast.*

There is a high table mountain in lat. 0° 56′ S., and a point of land stretching out to the N.Westward from it, in lat. 0° 52′ S., which forms the western extremity of Palos Bay.

Geo. Site.

When Cape Temoel is first seen, in coming from the northward, it makes like islands, the land that connects it with the coast being lower than the hills which form it. The N.W. point of the cape, where it projects most, is in lat. 0° 1′ N., lon. 119° 26′ E., by observations taken in the Anna, when we were all the month of February endeavouring to round it, to the northward: the South point of the peninsula that forms the cape, is in lat. 0° 8′ S.

About 4 or 5 miles N.Westward from the Cape, lies a small round island, called South Watcher, (or Wachter by the Dutch) having a reef projecting from its South end; and from its N. E. end, a reef of rocks and sand, extends toward the Celebes shore, more than ⅓ of the distance between them. The Laurel stood in, nearly mid-channel between the reef that projects from the South end of this island, and another stretching from the opposite bluff point of Temoel, then steered into the bottom of the bay within the island, where she was during the night, tacking every hour with the wind at N. N. E., but got no soundings. She kept near the northern shore of the bay, when coming out in the morning, to give a birth to the reef off the N. E. end of the South Watcher. It is, however, not advisable to go inside of this island; for the passage seemed to us unsafe, when at the distance of 3 or 4 miles outside.

Geo. Site of Cape Donds.

CAPE DONDA, bearing N. 33° E. from Cape Temoel, distant about 19 leagues, is in

* Captain Woodard, who landed in the boat of an American ship, between Cape Temoel and Cape Donda, March 3d, 1793, was attacked by the inhabitants, had one man killed, and the others made slaves; he escaped two years afterward in a proa to Macassar, with two of the men that survived.

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lat. 0° 48′ N., lon. 119°.57′ E. by a series of observations; of the sun, stars, and moon; and the observations of Captain Heywood, make it the same.*

contiguous land.

The mountains over this cape being very high, and having a steep declivity to the water's edge, terminating in several bold head-lands, it is difficult to distinguish the cape. It is said, that the ship Jane got soundings near the shore, a little to the southward of Cape Donda; but it is certain, that all this coast is very steep, for no soundings are got close to the islands which line the shore between that cape and Cape Rivers; nor do there appear to be any in the bays with sandy beaches, adjacent to the seven islands, or in those formed by Cape Temoel.

Seven Islands.

SEVEN ISLANDS, in lat, 0° 32′ N. (the body of them) fronting the coast to the southward of Cape Donda, are flat, low, and woody, not easily distinguished unless when near them, except the outermost, called North Watcher, or Wachter. This island is in about lat. 0° 33′ N., distant 5 or 6 leagues from the shore, and appears not so large as the others, but may be seen 5 or 6 leagues from the deck: the channel betwixt it and the nearest long level island, is about 2 or 3 leagues wide, and clear of danger.

Geo. Site of Cape Rivers.

CAPE RIVERS, in lat. 1° 15′ N., lon. 120° 34′ E. by our lunar observations, and chronometers, bearing N. 55° E. from Cape Donda, distant 16 leagues, has two small isles close to it; and the land that forms it having a regular declivity, with a gap not far from the extremity, gives the cape an isolated appearance when first seen. To the eastward, betwixt it and Trees Cape, there is a projecting headland, with white cliffs fronting the sea.

The coast betwixt it and Cape Donda, forms a small concavity, and is mountainous at a small distance inland. To the eastward of Cape Rivers about 23 leagues, in the bay on the East side of Cape Candy, the river and village of Bool are situated; there is said to be anchorage and fresh water here but some dangers project from the shore, and a rock covered with 3 fathoms water, on which an English ship struck.

Sailing directions along the Celebes side,

A ship proceeding along the coast of Celebes from Cape Mandhar to Cape Rivers, should keep at least 2 or 3 leagues off, in light winds, to prevent being drifted near the shore; but when beating to the northward against a steady wind and lee current, she ought to work near the coast in most places, particularly in the bay to the southward of Cape Temoel, where she will be out of the strength of the current.

and along the coat of Borneo.

THE BORNEO SIDE of the STRAIT, has generally been adopted by ships, until they have passed the Little Pater Nosters: to proceed by this route, after having rounded the south-east part of Great Pulo Laut, the channel on either side of the Alike Islands may be chosen, as circumstances require, and a course should be steered from thence, toward Shoal Point, The best track between them with a working wind, is to stand out into 15 or 16 fathoms, about 4 or 5 leagues off shore, and it may be approached to 7 or 8 fathoms, about 2 or 1½ league distant: the bottom is generally soft mud, but in some parts, overfalls may be got from 10, to 8 or 7 fathoms in the fair channel, about 4 or 5 leagues off shore.

Geo. Site of Shoal Point.

SHOAL POINT, in lat. 2° 35′ S., lon. 116° 47′ E. by chronometer, and the mean of a series of lunar observations, bearing from the Three Alike Islands, N. 6° W., distant 22 leagues, is the southern extremity of a piece of woody level land, about 9 leagues in length. Close to the point, on the South side, there is a deep inlet or river; and another in lat. 2° 58′ S., having an island close to the point that separates it from Pulo Laut Strait. A reef projects from Shoal Point in a southerly direction, having some rocks and bushes above water;

* Capt. Mayne, of the Company's ship Atlas, made it in lon. 119° 58′ E., but Capt. Lynn's chronometers placed it several miles farther to the eastward.

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but the flat that fronts the point, may be borrowed on with safety to 6 fathoms on the East side about 2 leagues distance, the bottom being soft, and the decrease of depth very gradual. Steering a direct course along the coast, the water shoals about 2 fathoms abreast of the point, and returns to the former depth when past it.

Geo. Site of Ragged Point.

RAGGED POINT, or TANJONG ARES,* in lat. 2° 10′ S., lon. 116° 48′ E. by mean of many lunar observations, corroborated by chronometers, bears nearly North from Shoal Point, distant 8½ leagues; the land fronting the sea between them, being level and moderately elevated, is terminated to the northward by Ragged Point, which is bluff, with some gaps among the trees, and surrounded by a reef: from hence, the coast takes a westerly direction, forming the great bay of Pastier to the northward.

Shoals off this part of the coast.

Betwixt Shoal and Ragged Points, is the most intricate part of the strait, on account of several SHOALS contiguous to the passage, not well explored, nor easily avoided in the night; for the soundings are not sufficiently regular to guide a ship clear of the dangers.

On the southernmost of these shoals, the Henry Addington grounded, November 12th, 1805, in 3¼ fathoms coral, and the least water found on it was 2 fathoms coral rock, Shoal Point bearing N.W, ¼ N., distant 6 or 7 leagues. When abreast of this dangerous shoal, it is proper to keep within 4 leagues of the coast, and not bring Shoal Point to the westward of N.W. by N. or N.W. ½ N., until to the northward of the Addington's Shoal, which seems to be in about lat. 2° 50′ S.

OTHER SHOALS, which lie in the offing, are 3 or 3½ leagues off shore, not easily discerned in fine weather; for although nearly dry at low water spring tides, they have sometimes from 3, to 9 and 12 feet water on them, because the tide rises here 7 or 8 feet at full and change of the moon. The Hercules examined one of these shoals with her boat, arid found it composed of sand, coral, and stones, with from 3 to 9 feet water on it, and from 15 to 17 fathoms close to. This shoal bears from Ragged Point about S. 35° E. and N. 47° E. from Shoal Point, distant about 3 ½ leagues off shore; for when the shoal bore from S. 39° E. to S. 66° E. about ½ a mile distant, Ragged Point bore N. 33° W., and Shoal Point S. 47° W. It appeared like a long mark occasioned by the reflection of a cloud passing the sun.

TWO SHOALS, were seen in 1795, by the Bridgewater, True Briton, Woodford, and Albion, the southernmost of which, appears to be very near, or part of that examined by the Hercules; for they found it to bear S. 37° E. from Ragged Point, distant about 15½ miles, and from Shoal Point N. 41° E., about the same distance. The other shoal bore from Ragged Point S. 41° E., distant abort 3½ leagues, and from Shoal Point N.20° E.; no part of these shoals appeared above water at the time, but the sea broke upon them.

It appears to have been the last mentioned shoal, that was examined by Capt. T. Lynn, of the ship Barkworth, November 24th, 1816, who describes it thus. From abreast of Shoal Point, kept about 6 miles off shore in coasting along, in soundings from 5 to 7 fathoms, till that point bore S. 32° W., and Ragged Point N. 22° W., then at 9¾ A. M. steered N. E. by N. and N. E., and at 10, saw the North Sand dry, (from the tops) bearing N. ½ E. Steered between the shoals as intended, leaving the above-mentioned one, 3½ or 4 miles on the larboard side, least water 6, and never more than 8 fathoms. Although the weather was favorable, did not see the other shoal, but its existence is certain, as I have landed on it in a former voyage. A little before noon, I landed on the North Sand, and by good observation, made it in lat. 2° 17′ 25″ S., Ragged Point bearing from it N. 44½° W., Shoal Point S. 28° W., as near as could be ascertained, for the latter point was nearly sunk to the view, and

* Called also Tanjong Lapar.

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appearing broken; and the sand seemed to be 6 or 8 miles off shore, and about 9 miles distant from Ragged Point. This is a very extensive and dangerous shoal, having several distinct patches about it, with apparently deep water between them: one of these, is a sand bank above water at times, to the N.W. about a mile, and the greatest extent of the danger is in this direction; in circumference, I should think it nearly 2 miles.

There seems to be another shoal, betwixt these and the shoal which the Henry Addington grounded on to the southward; for when Shoal Point bore W. S.W. ¼ S., and the low land near Ragged Point about N.W. off shore near 3 leagues, the Blenheim's boat had 15 feet rocks on a shoal bearing E. by N. from the ship.

Between the Little Pater Nosters and these shoals, there are TWO DRY SAND BANKS, bearing nearly E. by S. from those close to Ragged Point, with coral reefs near them, where the Resolution, Friendship, and other ships have grounded, which render the passage outside of these shoals very unsafe. H. M. S. Blenheim, and the fleet, by keeping too far in the offing between Great Pulo Laut and Ragged Point, got overfalls on coral banks, and saw several dangers, on one of which the Henry Addington grounded, as mentioned above, and the Blenheim narrowly escaped getting upon another.

Channels that should be chosen to avoid them.

Although several ships have passed outside of these shoals, without discerning any of them, there is, nevertheless, great risk in sailing here during the night, unless every precaution is taken to avoid the dangers; for the soundings in some places are irregular, and not a certain guide when the depths are more than 10 or 12 fathoms. Under these depths, the soundings are more regular toward the edge of the mud bank that stretches along the shore from Pulo Laut to Ragged Point; for in standing on it, the water shoals in most parts very gradually to 6, 5, or 4½ fathoms. Therefore, the best channel is within 2 leagues of the shore, inside of the shoals, in soundings from 8 to 13 fathoms; and when Ragged Point is approached, the depth of 11 to 13 fathoms ought to be preserved, if a ship is under sail in the night, to avoid the outer shoals, and those adjoining to Ragged Point. This is the narrowest part of the channel, being bounded on the inside by two small sand banks, which are at a small distance from each other, and 2 or 3 miles distant from Ragged Point, the outermost bearing S. E. from the point. These two sand banks are probably covered in very high tides, but in passing, a small patch of white sand, above water, is generally visible on each of them. Working from Shoal Point to these sand banks, stand off to 13 or 14 fathoms in the day, and toward the shore to 7 or 6 fathoms: when near them, keep in 9 to 13 fathoms until abreast of Ragged Point, and do not deepen above 17 or 18 fathoms until 4 or 5 leagues to the N. Eastward of that point,

Geo site of Little l'ater Nosters.

LITTLE PATER NOSTERS, called by the Malays BALABALAKAN, (after the easternmost island), consist of an extensive group of 13 small isles, with banks of coral and sand above and under water, scattered among, and around them. The southernmost isle is in about lat. 2° 50′ S., the N. Easternmost in lat. 2° 10′ S., lon. 117° 58′ E., and the N.Westernmost in lat. 2° 8′ S., lon. 117° 42′ E.,* or 54 miles East from Ragged Point by chronometers. On these two isles, there is said to be fresh water; they are all low with trees on them, and ought to be avoided, for they are dangerous to approach. The True Briton coming from the southward, got among them, and as the numerous shoals seemed to preclude any safe passage through, she was obliged to return by the track she entered, after a delay of several days.

The N.W. and Westernmost isles, ought not to be approached so near as to be discernible from the mast-head, for they are fronted by sand banks, with dangerous coral spits projecting out 7 or 8 leagues. Returning from China, in the Anna, we made the N. E. isle in July,

* Captain Heywood, made the N, E. and N.W. isles in the same latitude, and exactly in the same longitude by chronometers.

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1792, steered to the westward, keeping 4 or 5 leagues off the isles, and got ground 34 to 14 fathoms coral rock, when the N.Westernmost isles were in sight from the top, bearing South. Continuing to steer westward for the coast of Borneo, we had great overfalls from 30 and 40, to 5 or 5½ fathoms, on the coral banks. When two of the N.Westernmost isles were in sight from the mast-head, bearing about S. E., nine dry sand banks (with a few bushes on two of them) were seen bearing from South to S. E. by S., distant 7 or 8 miles; passed then over some spits of 5 and 5½ fathoms, the bright coral rocks under the bottom, having a dangerous appearance; and some of the patches were thought to have very little water on them.

At noon, observed the lat. 2° 6′ S., the land of Borneo visible from the deck, bearing W. by S. ½ S. when two of the westernmost isles in sight from the mast-head were on with the body of the sand banks, bearing about S. by E.; at this time, deepened to 40 fathoms, afterward had no ground at 50 fathoms. Steered 2 miles to the westward, and got ground 36 fathoms, the depth then regularly decreasing over a bottom of mud and gravel, to 20 fathoms when Ragged Point was seen from the mast-head bearing W. S.W. about 8 leagues.

The northernmost sand banks are in lat. 2° 7′ S., distant about 3 leagues to the westward of the nearest isle.

Directions for avoiding them.

To avoid these dangerous coral banks, a ship coming from the northward, ought not to cross the parallel of lat. 2° S. until she is well in with the coast of Borneo, in 20 or 18 fathoms. If leaving Ragged Point, she ought not to stand off shore to more than 20 or 22 fathoms until she is to the northward of the same parallel; and then, the strait is clear from side to side.

Passier Road and River.

PASSIER RIVER'S ENTRANCE, in about lat. 1° 54′ S., is situated near the bottom of the bay, about 6½ leagues N.Westward from Ragged Point; the anchorage is in 4½ 5 fathoms, 3 or 4 leagues off shore, to the northward of the river. There are some shoals in the South part of the bay, betwixt Ragged Point and the river, to avoid which, ships bound to Passier should get into the latitude of the anchorage before they approach near the shore, and steer West for it. The town is 6 or 7 leagues up the river, where supplies may be got in case of necessity, but small ships must be guarded against any attack, as several ships have been cut off at Passier, and other parts of this strait.

At the N.W. part of the bay, is situated the wide entrance of Passier Lama, or Old Passier; and all the land is low and woody close to the sea, but hilly in the country.

Geo. Site of Pamaroong Island.

PAMAROONG ISLAND, or DONDREKIN, the South point is in lat. 0° 54′ S., lon. 117° 36′ E. by lunar observations and chronometers, bearing from Ragged Point about N. 32° E. distant 30 leagues; and it is the southern extremity of the long low island named as above, separated from the coast of Borneo by a narrow channel, appearing like the mouth of a river, when viewed from southward. And Gooty town lies far inland from hence, already mentioned in a note at the beginning of this section.

About mid-way betwixt Passier Bay and this place, the coast forms Baleekpappan Bay, and near the sea, is low and woody, with several detached mountains inland, one of which is called Baleekpappan Peak: along this part of the coast, the depths are 25 to 30 fathoms about 4 or 5 leagues off, decreasing gradually toward the shore.

adjacent coast.

From the South point, Pamaroong Island stretches about 10 leagues to the N. N. E. and northward, having several indentations or small inlets on its eastern side, and is fronted by a reef which surrounds the outer parts of the island. The depths decrease regularly over a muddy bottom to the edge of the reef, at the southern parts of the island; but to the northward, there is deep water near it. A DRY SAND BANK, in lat. 0° 52′ S., lies about 2 miles distant from the S. E. part of the island, on which the Betsey, and Experiment, grounded in the night. The fleet bound to China in 1799, anchored here, December 12th, and the boats found the depth decrease regularly to the sand bank, which may be approach-

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ed occasionally to 10 or 12 fathoms. It extends N. E. by E. and S.W. by W. about 2/3 of a mile, but at high water spring tides, is not dry more than 50 yards across, for the water rises at those times 8 or 9 feet.

The freshes from the rivers on this coast, carry large drifts of trees into the strait, which frequently appear at a considerable distance like vessels under sail, or small floating islands.

To the northward of Pamaroong Island, there are no soundings along the coast of Borneo, in the great bight between it and Point Kanneeoongan, except very close to the shore; and the coast in this part is seldom approached.

To sail from Ragged Point to the northward.

Having passed Ragged Point, steer toward the South end of Pamaroong Island, keeping northward. along the coast in soundings of 16 or 18 fathoms, which will increase to 25 and 30 fathoms as you proceed to the northward, and the depths are 28 or 30 fathoms about 4 leagues off the South end of the island. With a steady S. E. wind, you may keep farther out, to give a good birth to this island; for excepting the reef and sand bank contiguous to it, the strait is clear of danger from side to side, to the northward of lat. 2° 0′ S.

Geo. Site of Point Kanneeoongan.

Circumjacent isles and coast.

TANJONG, (or POINT) KANNEEOONGAN, in about lat. 1° 5′ N., lon. 119° 10′ E., is the extremity of a narrow peninsula of high even land, which extends nearly 20 leagues eastward from the other land of Borneo; and the North entrance of the strait of Macassar, formed between it and Cape Donda, is about 17 leagues wide. Contiguous to the point there are two small isles, and another isle of middling height covered with trees, about 2½ leagues off the land, on the South side of the peninsula, having a safe channel betwixt it and the shore. No soundings are obtained here, nor within 1 or 2 miles of the coast to the South and westward of the point. A ship being on the South side of this peninsula, will experience no southerly current, when it is running strong into the strait; there being an eddy under it, similar to that under Cape Temoel on the opposite coast.

To the N.W. of Point Kanneeoongau, about 3 leagues distant, there is a small isle with a conspicuous beach, and the Bomige or Harings Isles, in about lat. 1° 40′ N., bear about N. by W. ¾ W. from the point; these are two small isles, near, and on with each other, bearing W. 14° N. The large island Maratua, or St. John's, is said to bear about N. by W.½ W. from Point Kanneeoongau, extending from lat. 2° N. nearly on the meridian, to lat. 2° 24′ N. The Jason Snow, passed inside of it and the isles contiguous, in 1774, and found soundings near the coast of Borneo to the westward of Harings Isles, with several other isles and shoals fronting the coast: but the whole of the coast, embracing the great concavity between Point Kanneeoongan and Unsang, in which are several bays, with groups of small islands fronting it in some places, is little known to Europeans.

Currents.

CURRENTS, in the Strait of Macassar, run more frequently to the southward than in the opposite direction: from November to April, particularly in January, and February, the current runs with great strength in that direction, abating generally in March. During the southerly monsoon, from April to September, or October, there is frequently a weak current setting through to the southward, in opposition to the wind which then blows into the southern part of the strait from S. S. E. or S. Eastward. This southerly current, is not so prevalent at the North entrance of the strait; for a N. E. current is often experienced about Cape Donda or Cape Rivers, in the southerly monsoon, although the currents and winds may be considered variable during that season.

Some ships have experienced a current setting into the strait, on the East side of Pulo Laut, during the southerly monsoon; but ships which sail tolerably, seldom find much difficulty in working round the island in that season, for in general, the current is weak, and sometimes it runs to the southward.

In October, November, and December, the current sometimes sets through the strait to the northward, particularly in October; but it has been found in some years, to set southerly

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in November and December. October, is the best month for ships proceeding through the strait, when bound by the eastern passage to China; November and part of December, is also reckoned a favorable season; but the passage through this strait; ought never to be attempted in January or February, nor probably after the beginning or middle of December.

DIRECTIONS for SAILING from the STRAIT of MACASSAR, between MINDANAO and CELEBES, into the PACIFIC OCEAN: COASTS, CHANNELS, and ISLANDS.

Currents between Mindanao and Celebes.

THE CURRENT, runs mostly in, from the Pacific Ocean between Mindanao and Celebes, to the West or S.Westward, in both monsoons; but near the land, it changes at times and sets to the eastward, particularly near the North coast of Celebes, an easterly set is frequently experienced in October, or November, and sometimes in December.

General of marks for the passage to the eastward.

Betwixt the easternmost of the Sooloo Islands, and the South end of Mindanao, the current is liable to great changes; when setting sometimes 2 miles per hour to the westward, it suddenly abates, and runs equally strong to the eastward; at other times, there is little or no current. Ships which steer from Cape Rivers for the South end of Mindanao, are generally delayed by light winds and calms when they approach the latter, and meeting a S.Westerly current about the Serangani Islands, they are frequently drifted to the southward as far as Sangir, or even to Siao, before they can get through any of the channels between the islands.

Those which endeavour to make a direct course from Cape Rivers to Sangir or Siao, and then proceed through any of the contiguous channels, will generally make their passage much quicker than the former. It was formerly the practice to approach the coast of Mindanao, in order to counteract the S.W. current, and to be enabled to give a good birth to the North end of Morty, with the prevailing N. E. winds: but there is seldom any difficulty experienced in getting round the North cape of Marty,* even in ships which pass to the southward of Siao; because, an eddy current sets sometimes out of the Molucca Passage to N. Eastward; whilst among the islands, adjacent to Mindanao, the current is running to S. Westward.

In September, October, November, and December, favorable passages have been made from Cape Rivers to Sangir and Siao, and from thence to the northward of Morty; and this tract seems preferable to the circuitous route by the coast of Mindanao.

Manado, on North coast of Celebes.

NORTH COAST OF CELEBES, is in general high bold land, and in most parts, may be approached within a few miles, but ships ought to keep well out from it, unless they intend to touch at MANADO for refreshments. This is a bay, and village, in about lat 1° 28′ N., situated on the West side of the N. E. end of Celebes, having a group of islands fronting it to the northward. There is anchorage in this bay, and the Dutch have a resident at the village, the natives being more hospitable here, than those are, who inhabit the western coast. Rice is exported from Manado to the Molucca Islands, the adjacent country being cultivated with that grain.

* Indifferent sailing ships, have in some seasons been retarded two or three days in getting round, when brisk N. E. winds prevailed, with a considerable swell against them; others often get quickly round: the Sulivan passed to the southward of Siao, December 11th, 1792, had an easterly current of 3° 16′ from Cape Donda, which continued till in lat. 6° N., lon.135° E. on the 20th, being set in nine days from Siao 4° 34′ to the eastward of account, or nearly 8° after leaving Cape Donda.

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Geo. Site of Kema Village and Road.

KEMA VILLAGE, in lat. 1° 22′ N., lon. 125° 19′ E. by chronometers, situated on the East side of Celebes, nearly opposite to Manado, has also good anchorage in the road, in 10 or 12 fathoms, with Mount Klobat bearing N. 36° W., and the Sisters N. 28° E. about a mile off shore; the depth from thence, gradually decreasing to the village, where good water and other refreshments may be procured. About 5 miles to the N. E. of Kema, lies the South entrance of the Strait of Limbe, where shelter from S. E. winds and good anchorage are found, when these winds blow into Kema Road. The tides rise 5 or 6 feet here, and contiguous to the N. E. part of Celebes.

Strait of Limbe.

STRAIT OF LIMBE, formed betwixt the Island Great Limbe, and the N. E. part of Celebes contiguous to it, is very narrow and intricate in the middle, with an island in that part encircled by a reef, which occasions an eddy or whirlpool; and the tides being very strong, render the passage through the strait not advisable in a large vessel. Close on the West side of this strait, is situated the highest peak of the Sisters, which with the contiguous mountains, are very conspicuous in passing near the N. E. end of Celebes. The southernmost of these called Mount Klobat, may, be seen about 30 leagues.

Geo. Site of Banca; neighbouring islands, and contiguous channel.

BANCA ISLAND, in about lat. l° 52′ N., lon. 125° 24′ E., by the chronometers and lunar observations of Captain Heywood, corresponding with those of other navigators, fronts the N. E. point of Celebes, having other islands hear it to the westward; and this group, is situated betwixt the North part of the strait of Limbe, and the islands that front Manado Bay. Banca is hilly, and of middling height, but one of the islands to the westward is flat table land, and another has a high peak on it; the latter is the northernmost of the group, off Manado Bay. Betwixt the Celebes shore and these islands, there is a safe channel called Banca Strait, leading from the North entrance of the Strait of Limbe to the anchorage in Manado Bay.

The extreme point of Celebes is called Cape Coffin, and the whole of the islands that stretch from it to Manado Bay, forming the Strait of Banca, are sometimes called Banca Islands.

Bejaren Island, and channel adjoining.

BEJAREN ISLAND, in lat. 2° 6′ N., distant about 5 or 6 leagues N. Eastward from Banca, is of moderate height, terminating in a peak at the summit. The channel betwixt it and Banca, appears to be 4 or 5 leagues wide, safe for large ships; and it is the southernmost channel* amongst the chain of islands, situated between the N. E. end of Celebes and the South Point of Mindanao.

Geo. Site of Tagolanda; contiguous channel.

TAGOLANDA ISLAND, in about lat. 2° 23′ N., lon. 125° 36′ E., bearing from the North part of Bejaren about N. ½ E. distant 4 or 5 leagues, has a hi h conical peak, and is of considerable extent; it is fronted by the Island Roang on the S.W. side, and by the low level Island Passig on the West side, which lie at a small distance.

The channel between Bejaren and Tagolanda is 2½ or 3 leagues wide, and clear of danger; the Hope passed through it in 1806, and other ships which have fallen to leeward of Tagolanda, have proceeded by it, at various times. The North end of Tagolanda, is in about lat. 2° 27′ N.

Geo. Site of Siao; isles and channels adjoining.

SIAO, is an island of greater extent than Tagolanda, rendered very conspicuous by a high conical volcanic peak, situated in lat. 2° 43′ N., lon. 125° 35½′ E. by the chronometers and adjoining, lunar observations of Capt. Heywood. About 3 leagues distance from the West side of

* H. M. S. Imperieuse, wish a convoy from Malacca Strait, bound to Amboina, worked through this channel in the night of the 9th of November, 1800, then proceeded through the Molucca Passage, and arrived on the 21st at Amboina.

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Siao, lies the small island Makalara; and on the East side lies Mandang, with other contiguous isles, and some rocks project from the S.W. point of Mandang, betwixt which, and the S. E. point of Siao, there is an opening about a mile wide. When the East end of Makalara was on a transit line with the N.W. point of Siao, they bore E. 20° N., the South extrerne of Siao bearing East.

The S. E. point of Siao is in about lat. 2° 40′ N., bearing N. ¼ W. about 13 miles from the N. E. point of Tagolanda; the channel between them being 3 or 3½ leagues wide, and clear of danger, is much frequented by ships proceeding to the eastward.

Geo. Site of Sangir.

Watering place, and anchorage.

SANGIR, or SANGUEY, bearing from Siao about N. by E. ½ E., distant 12 or 13 leagues, extending from lat. 3° 21′ N., nearly in a N. N.W. direction to lat. 3° 46′ N., is of moderate height at the southern part, but the land is formed of high mountains to the northward. There is said to be a harbour on the East side, formed by the adjoining small isles, several of which are at a considerable distance from Sangir; and contiguous to the southern part, there are other islands. The western side is indented by several small hays, with soundings from 40 to 60 fathoms, about 1 to 2 miles off shore; and it is clear of danger, but the bottom is mostly coral. There is a small river or watering place, in a bay situated in lat. 3° 28′ N., lon. 125° 44′ E. by chronometers and lunar observations; here, ships may anchor about a mile off shore, in from 50 to 60 fathoms with a light anchor, and procure poultry anchorage and vegetables from the natives of the adjacent habitations, the island being cultivated in many places.

The Royal Charlotte, anchored with the kedge in 58 fathoms, abreast of a village bearing N. 70° E., a piece of land like an island, but joined to the main island N. 45° E., distant 1½ mile, a point of land N. 2° E., distant 3 or 4 miles, N.Western extreme N. 20° W., the point of an island off the South end of Sangir S. 36° E., and the body of the westernmost Passage Island South, the watering river was then a little to the southward of the land resembling an island.*

The tides run to the northward and southward along this side of the island about 2 miles per hour, and rise 6 or 7 feet. Long boats should go into the river about ¼ flood, to get filled and clear of it before high water, for the ebb runs out quick, and will soon leave the boats aground.

Passage Islands and the channels described.

KARAKITA, or PASSAGE ISLANDS, consist of four or five islands and rocky islets, situated betwixt the South end of Sangir and Siao, which separate the channel into two branches. The westernmost Passage Island, or Karakita, is high, and the eastern one, called Pala, projects out in a low point to the eastward; the channel betwixt these islands and the South end of Sangir, is 3 or 3½ leagues wide, clear of hidden danger, by keeping nearest to Karakita, as islets and rocks lie near the Sangir shore to the westward of its South point, not easily seen in the night. The channel betwixt the Passage Islands and Siao, is considered dangerous in the night: the fleet bound to China, steering through it, November 19th, 1807, when the weather cleared up at 11 P.M., saw the land a-head, and on both bows, extending from N. N. E. to four rocky islets bearing E. S. E.; they then hauled off S. E. until close to Siao, and passed to the southward of the rocks about the distance of 1½ mile. These four rocks are situated about N. by E. from Siao, nearly mid-way between it and the nearest of the Passage Islands, one of which is called the Quoin. The

* The Royal Charlotte and Cuffnells, watered with their long boats in the river without difficulty, whilst they remained here, February 17th and 18th, 1800. The Cuffnells anchored in 60 fathoms, with the mouth of the river bearing E. by N. 2 miles, distant about 1½ mile from the point that forms the North side of the bay. The Woodford, January 26th, 1795, anchored here, and got plenty of poultry and fruit in exchange for coloured handkerchiefs, knives, &c., but she lost 11 casks in attempting to water; by which it appears, that there is a considerable surf beating on the shore at times.

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North end of Siao must be borrowed on pretty close to avoid them, but the channel to the southward of that island, is preferable in the night. The David Scott, January 4th, 1811, passed to the North of Siao in the night, within 2 miles of the southernmost Passage Island, and saw lights on them. Ships having approached Sangir, may either proceed to the North or southward of the island, as seems most eligible; if the latter route be pursued, they ought to haul close round the South end of Sangir, to be enabled with the N. E. wind, to weather the rocky islets bounding the South side of the channel, particularly as a S.W. current may often be expected.

To sail betwixt the islands and Sangir.

Rabbit, and Circumjacent rocks.

The easternmost of these islands on the South side of the passage, called the Rabbit or Haycock, is 5 or 5½ leagues S. Eastward from the South end of Sangir, and nearly direct to the southward of the outer island that fronts the East side of Sangir. There are two small islets or rocks to the eastward of the Rabbit, and others to the westward; several of them are small spiral rocks, and some appear like Haycocks.

The Walsingham, December 7th, 1793, fell to the southward of Karakita, and pushed through between the second and third islands to the southward of Sangir. At noon, observed lat. 3° 9′ N., Siao Peak bearing then S. 9° W., an island S. 63° W., another S. 4° W. to S. 23° E., one N. 37° E. to E. 4° S., one N. 25° E., one N. 8° W. to N. 16° W., Sangir North to N. N. E., and rocks a-head bearing E. S. E.½ S., distant 3 or 4 leagues; the current setting strong to E. S. E. This seems an intricate narrow passage, which the Walsingham went through, and ought not to be chosen; for there being no soundings near these rocks or islands, a ship may be drifted upon some of them by the currents, during light airs or calms.

Small between Sangir and Mindanao.

Louisa shoal.

CHAIN OF SMALL ISLANDS, extending from the North end of Sangir in a northerly direction to the South end of Mindanao, have several safe channels among them. Some of these, which front the North end and N. E. side of Sangir, are only islets or rocks high above water; and to the westward of an island that bears N. by W. about 4 or 5 leagues from Sangir, the Louisa Shoal is situated.

There is a good channel outside of the isles adjoining to the N.E. part of Sangir, but caution and a strict look out will be requisite in the night, when passing near, or among any of these rocky islets. The northernmost isles of this chain, called Obtuse Cone, Flat Island, Broken Island, and Three Hill Island, are situated directly to the southward of the Serangani Islands, having a safe channel between them and the latter.

Geo. Site of Serangani Islands.

Mindanao South Point.

SERANGANI ISLANDS, distant 4 or 5 leagues off the South point of Mindanao, called sometimes Serangani Point, consist of two considerable islands extending from lat.5° 20′ to 5° 31′ N.; and the high peak on the westernmost, is in lon. 125° 32′ E. by chronometers, bearing about South from the South point of Mindanao. These two islands lie E. N. E. and W. S.W. of each other, and the easternmost, which is by much the lowest, has a bill on its South end: there are soundings on the N. E. side of the westernmost island, and also contiguous to the North end of the other, in the passage betwixt it and the small island Linitan; brut none in the channel between them and Mindanao. Linitan is a small low island, distant about 3 miles to the northward of the eastern Serangani Island, and has a reef projecting from its North and South points a little way, and also to the eastward. The South point of Mindanao is in lat. 5° 39′ N.; the land fronting it being high and hilly, may be seen about 12 leagues; and the channel between it and those islands is 3 or 4 leagues wide, clear of hidden danger.* The tide flows here, till 7 hours on full and change of the moon, and rises 6 feet.

* H. M. ships La Sybille and Fox, from Samboangan and Bongo Bay, bound to Macao, beat through the channel between Mindanao and the Serangani Islands, during the day and night of the 13th of February, 1798;

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Captain J. Hunter (the late Admiral Hunter), anchored at the Serangani Islands in 1791, returning from Port Jackson; and the Waaksamheyd snow, in which he and the crew of H. M. S. Sirius were passengers, was assaulted by the natives, from a misunderstanding between the master of the vessel and the Rajah of the place.*

Geo Site of the Tulour Island.

TULOUR, or SALIBABOO ISLANDS, are of considerable size, and moderately elevated, being three in number, with some contiguous small isles. Kabruang, the southernmost island, has a peaked mount on it, and its South end is in lat. 3° 47′ N., lon. 127° 11′ E. by Capt. Balston's chronometers, in 1816, measured from Lombock Peak; and it bears East from the North end of Sangir, distant about 28 leagues. Salibaboo or Lirog, situated to the N. W. of Kabruang, has on it a table hill; and on the East side, fronting Kabruang, the bay and road of Salibaboo is situated, having irregular soundings of 10 to 20 fathoms rocky bottom near the shore, and from 20 to 40 fathoms sand about 1 or 1½ mile off.

By a plan of these islands drawn by Captain W. Greig, who visited them during a trading voyage from Bengal, it appears that the small harbour at the bottom of Salibaboo Bay, called Leron Harbour by Captain Forrest, is called Salibaboo by the natives. Sailing in for the road by the South Channel, betwixt Kabruang and the point of Salibaboo, a birth must be given to a spit that projects a large ½ mile from the shore, about half way betwixt the point and harbour, on which the water shoals from 7 to 3 fathoms. The harbour is easily known by the houses and cocoa-nut trees, but seems not adapted for large vessels: the best anchorage in the road, is from 15 to 30 fathoms sandy bottom, about a mile off shore; for farther in, the bottom is rocky in some places.

From the N. E. point of the island, a spit projects, with 30 or 33 fathoms near it; which depths continue round the point, close along the North side of the island to the village called Leron by the natives, situated 1½ or 2 miles to the N. Westward of that point, and fronting the South end of Tulour. There are two small islands off this village, where it is said, ships may anchor in safety betwixt them and the village, but probably this is an anchorage too confined for large ships, except in a case of necessity: at the village of Leron a ship may get supplied with hogs, goats, fowls, sweet potatoes, cocoa-nuts, &c. at a very cheap rate. The natives seem very civil, and prefer old iron, coarse red handkerchiefs, and coarse white cloth, to dollars. The natives of Karkalang seem also friendly, where vegetables and other refreshments may be procured; and there is a safe channel betwixt it and the other islands to the N. Eastward.

Tulour or Karkalang, the largest and northernmost island, extends nearly 9 leagues North and South, or from lat. 4° 0′ to about lat. 4° 27′ N., and with the others is inhabited. The northern part of this island is said to be lined with a dangerous reef, which projects several miles from the north extremity, and from the shores contiguous to that part. In about lat. 4° 10′ N., and 8 or 9 leagues to the westward of Karkalang, there is said to be some rocks, seen in 1788, by the Iphigenia.

Northumberland Shoal.

NORTHUMBERLAND SHOAL, situated to the S. Eastward of the island Kabruang is in the track of ships which approach the South end of this island, after having rounded the North end of Sangir. The Northumberland, Captain Rees, with the fleet bound to

and got no soundings, although they stood pretty close to the shore on both sides of the channel. Captain Waterman, in the ship Volunteer, touched at the Serangani Islands, June 19th, 1813, and found a lagoon of rain water on the westernmost island, where they filled up, but it was rather brackish; a small well of good water was found on the eastern island, where they filled two casks, and procured plenty of firewood. The Volunteer, appears to have passed between the islands, as Capt. Waterman recommends to avoid the West side in going through, because that shore is lined by a shoal in the narrowest part, projecting out nearly to mid-channel; but the eastern side of the passage, is safe.

* The inhabitants of these, and the other islands near the coast of Mindanao, are of a hostile, and treacherous disposition.

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China, saw this shoal, January 31st, 1796, at 4 P. M.; the breakers bearing then from S. 70° E. to S. 87° E. distant 4 or 5 miles, and the South point of Kabruang N. 27° E. about 7 or 8 miles. On the middle of the breakers, a small patch of sand appeared above water, and the extent of the shoal is about 2 miles N. N.W. and S. S. E., bearing from the South point of Kabruang S. 14° E., distant 10 or 11 miles. The journal of the Warren Hastings in company, states the shoal to be only 2 or 3 leagues distant from the South point of Kabruang; but Captain Greig says, it is about 12 miles distance, in a S. E. direction from the peak. He rounded the South end of Kabruang at the distance of ½ a mile; and the Glatton passed betwixt the island and shoal in the night, without knowing of its existence!

Geo, Site of Meaning is Islands.

MEANGIS, or MENANGUS, in about lat. 5° N., lon. 127° 45′ E., distant 12 or 14 leagues N. Eastward of the Tulour Islands, consist of a group of three considerable islands of moderate height, with some smaller ones adjoining, being the easternmost of those that lie to the southward of Mindanao. There is said to be soundings amongst the largest islands in the narrow channels by which they are separated, and cloves growing on them; but they are little known to English navigators. As there is a small isle to the northward, and others betwixt this group and the Tulour Islands, exclusive of another high island in lat. 5° 33′ N. by the account of Captain Hunter, said to be distant about 12 leagues to the eastward of the latter, a good look out is therefore indispensable in these parts, for the number and situations of the islands are not correctly known. At 6 P. M., June 22d, 1813, the Volunteer passed the Meangis Islands bearing S. by E. about 6 leagues, same time, a high rock or isle like a haycock bore N. by W., but no other islands were seen in steering to the eastward.

Geo. Site of Cape St. Augustine.

CAPE ST. AUGUSTINE, the S. E. extremity of Mindanao, appears to be in about lat. 6° 4′ N., about lon. 126° 48′ E.; and from thence northward, the East coast of that island is little frequented. There are some bays and harbours on this part of the coast, one of which is about 16 leagues from the cape, with anchorage in it, but the inhabitants are said to be inhospitable to strangers.

Bays on the South coast of Mindanao

Geo. Site of the Town.

On the South coast, between the S. E. end of Mindanao, and the South point, the large bay of Tagloc is formed; and at the bottom of the great concavity on the S. W. side, betwixt the South point and the strait of Baseelan, lies Illana or Bongo Bay, where on the East side, the river and town of Mindanao are situated in about lat. 7° 10′ N., lon. 124° 35′ E. The anchorage is about 1 or 2 miles off the river, in 10 to 15 fathoms sand, to the S. E. of Bunwoot or Bongo Island; and the town of Mindanao is about 2 miles up the river, which is narrow, with 10 or 11 feet on the bar, at high water spring tides. Pollock Cove, about 3 leagues farther to the northward, is a good harbour, where fresh water may be procured; but the inhabitants here, and those of the adjacent coast, seem to be independent of the Rajah of Mindanao, and being a treacherous race, must be carefully watched. Boats landing at any of these places, should be well armed, and the people kept together, constantly on their guard.*

The depths in the entrance and middle of Pollock Cove, are from 45 to 30 fathoms, decreasing to 20 and 15 fathoms near the southern shore, to the eastward of the reef that surrounds the point. On the West side of Bongo Bay, several rivers fall into the sea.

There are other small bays or harbours on the South coast of Mindanao, one of which, called Kamaladan, is situated to the westward of the West point of Bongo Bay, near to the

* In February, 1798, H. M. frigates Fox and La Sybille, touched at Pollock Cove for water, where it is procured with greater facility than from Mindanao River. The inhabitants pretended friendship and assistance, but finding the La Sybille's boat's crew unarmed, they attacked and killed three of them; the rest, after being in captivity about a year, were ransomed by the humanity of Captain Lynch (who touched at Mindanao in a trading voyage to the eastward), and carried by him to Amboina.

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N. E. end of Pulo Lutangan, which is a considerable island contiguous to the coast. Sugud-Boyan Bay, to the N. Westward of the Serangani Islands, stretches a great way inland, having anchorage of 15 or 20 fathoms on the S. W. side, with some streams of water descending from the hills on the East side; and there are plains of long grass on the West side of this bay, abounding with deer. To the eastward, there is a very high conical mountain in about lat. 6° N., discernible from a great distance at sea. The inhabitants of this coast, and those of the principal islands of the Sangir Chain, subsist chiefly upon sago, fish, and fruits; but rice, sugar cane, and pepper, are cultivated in some places, in small quantities. A ship in want of provisions, will seldom be able to procure a sufficient supply: poultry, hogs, and goats, may be got at some of the islands; but it is thought, that bullocks and rice, are only to be had in sufficient quantity at Sooloo.

Directions for sailing to the east-ward.

A ship from Basseelan Strait, bound into the Pacific Ocean, may steer a direct course for the Serangani Islands, if the wind be favorable, and pass betwixt them and Mindanao, or to the southward of them, as circumstances require. From hence, she may steer out between the Meangis and Tulour Islands, to be able to clear the North cape of Morty with N. Easterly winds; but if any difficulty appear in pursuing this route, she may pass betwixt the Tulour Islands and Sangir, and then haul up to the eastward.

Ships from the Strait of Macassar, having passed through the channel betwixt Siao and Tagolanda, or through any of those contiguous to Sangir, should steer to the eastward, to give a birth to the North end of Morty; and to effect this purpose, those ships which have passed through any of the channels to the southward of Siao, ought to haul to N. Eastward if the winds admit. If N. E. winds prevail, with a current setting to the southward, it will be found difficult to prevent getting sight of the North part of Gillolo and Morty, or even perhaps of the two islands Meyo and Tyfore, situated in the North entrance of the Molucca Passage: but here, the southerly current generally abates, and a northerly one is often experienced setting out along the West coast of Gillolo. It is, however, prudent, to give a good birth to the northern extremities of that island and Morty, when it can be done without much loss of time, for the current sometimes sets to the southward in the vicinity of those islands;* and there is a swell generally from N. Eastward.

Geo. Site of Morty North Cape.

MORTY, or MORTAY, the North Cape, in lat. 2° 44′ N., lon. 128° 25′ E., measured by chronometers from Siao, is the northern extremity of the island of that name, which slopes down, from the high table land, into a point that forms the cape. This island extends 12 or 13 leagues to the southward, the land is mostly high, of an even appearance; and the North coast about the cape, is lined by a reef projecting 1 or 2 miles out, having no soundings close to, with some small isles adjoining. The island Riow, is situated at a small distance from the West coast, betwixt which and the North end of Gillolo, is formed the North entrance of Morty Strait. In 1808, there was little or no variation among the islands betwixt Mindanao and Celebes. In the bay betwixt the N. E. part of Riow and Morty, there is said to be anchorage; with fresh water, plenty of wild hogs, deer, wood-pigeons, &c. on the islands contiguous.

Gillolo.

GILLOLO, is high bold land, with three high remarkable peaks, discernible when off the N.W. part of the island: the North end is in about lat. 2° 23′ N., having several isles fronting it on the West side, called the Talenading Islands, which are of moderate height.

Geo. Site of Meyo, and Tyfore.

MEYO, in lat. 1° 12′ N., lon. 126° 39′ E. by chronometer, measured from Siao, is a high island of even appearance, situated in the North entrance of the Molucco Passage, between

* The Panther was carried into Morty Strait by the current during light winds, then passed through betwixt that island and Gillolo to the southward, and got no soundings whilst drifting through the strait; but the current generally sets through the Molucca Passage to the N. Eastward, during the greatest part of the year.

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Gillolo and the N. Eastern extremity of Celebes; and the island Tyfore is situated in lat. 0° 58′ N., lon. 126° 27′ E., distant about 6 leagues to the S. W. of Meyo.

Directions for the passage into the Pacific Ocean.

Ships having rounded the North Cape of Morty, ought not to exceed lat. 4° N. until they have made sufficient easting with the westerly or variable winds, to be expected in low latitudes; for in lat. 4° to 6° N., the verge of the N. E. monsoon will be approached, where it may he tedious getting to the eastward: in this track, care must be taken to avoid the low islands, or dangers, described in one of the following sections. Early in this season, it is advisable, (particularly in an indifferent sailing ship) to make easting sufficient to pass outside of the Pelew Islands, or at least to make the southernmost island, then proceed along the West side of them; for strong N. E. winds, with a westerly current, generally prevailing in the track between these islands and the North end of Luconia, in November, December, and January, would render it unpleasant to fall to leeward near the coast. It is, therefore, prudent, to keep well to the eastward in this season, until certain of being able to weather the North end of Luconia, and the Babuyanes Islands; which having approached, any of the channels adjoining to those islands may be chosen, as circumstances require. Late in February, or in March, it is not necessary to make so much easting, for in these months, you may pass to the westward of the Pellew Islands with safety; because the N. East winds are not so violent, nor the westerly currents so strong.

DIRECTIONS for SAILING from the STRAIT of MACASSAR to the WESTWARD of the PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

CHANNELS, DANGERS, AND HEADLANDS ADJOINING.

Macassar Strait aught to be chosen late in the season.

SHIPS bound to CHINA, may be considered too late for the Pitt's Passage, if they do not reach Pulo Laut before the 1st of March; in such case, they ought to proceed through the Strait of Macassar, and along the West sides of the Philippine Islands, because the season is then too far advanced for the route by the Pacific Ocean.

To sail from it toward Baseelan,

Being off Cape Donda in March or April, a course should be steered for the East end of Baseelan, observing to keep well to the eastward when the winds permit, to prevent being carried among the islands to the S. W. of Sooloo; for in this season, westerly currents and light easterly winds, greatly prevail betwixt Cape Donda and Baseelan. In case of falling to leeward, there are safe channels among the islands to the eastward of Sooloo; but as they are little frequented, it may be advisable to send a boat a-head to sound, when passing through any of them.

and through amongst the Sooloo Islands.

If a ship can only fetch Sooloo, she may pass round the Nest end of that island to the road, then steer from the North side of it, about N. N. E. toward the Sangboy Islands, giving a birth to Takoot Paboonoowan Shoal; which has been described under the article Sooloo, in one of the preceding sections. In proceeding by this route to the westward of the Sangboys, it may be prudent to continue a boat a-head sounding, for the dangers bounding it on each side, are not well known.

Griffin Rocks

GRIFFIN ROCKS, where the ship of this name was wrecked, situated N. by E. about 2 leagues from the small island Salleeolakit, and 2½ or 3 leagues to the westward of the Sangboys, must have a birth to the eastward, for the sea does not always break on them. To the

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S. Eastward of Salleeolakit about 2 leagues distant, there is another rock called Bato Balow. The breakers seen by the fleet, June 26th, 1795, were probably on this rock, or on some neighbouring danger; there being several shoals near the small islands, to the westward of the Peelas and Sangboys. This fleet, bound from China to England, came through the Mindora Sea, passed to the westward of the Sangboys, Peelas, and adjacent islands, and watered at Toolyan Bay, on the N. E. side of Sooloo. When passing the breakers at 5 miles distance in the Woodford, they were on with the South extreme of Baseelan bearing E. ¼ N.; when on with the North extreme of Baseelan, they bore E. N. E. N.; and were on with the North extreme of Peelas, bearing N. E. by N., a small isle then bearing N. by E. ½ E., probably Salleeolakit.

Exclusive of these dangers on the East side of the channel, there are several coral shoals on the edge of soundings to the westward, not well known, making it prudent not to borrow on that side above 7 leagues to the W. S. W. of the Sangboys; nor ought these islands to be approached under 4 or 5 leagues until they bear about East, when a ship will be clear to the northward of the Griffin Rocks.

Should the wind be at N. Westward after a ship is round the West end of Sooloo, she may steer to the E. N. E. and N. E., and proceed through the Peelas Channel; which route seems preferable to that last described.

Geo. Site of the Eaxtend of Baseelan;

BASEELAN ISLAND, is high, and extensive, separated from the S. W. end of Mindanao by a good channel, called the STRAIT OF BASEELAN. The eastern extremity of the island, is in lat. 6° 30′ N., lon. 122° 30′ E. by mean of a series of lunar observations; and if the winds are favorable for approaching it, push through the strait betwixt Baseelan and Mindanao, which is the shortest passage.*

and sailing directions.

In the East entrance of this strait, lie three islands, the southernmost of which, called Manalipa or Coco Island, is low, and distant about 5 miles off the Baseelan shore. The other called Sibago, bearing about N. W. by W. from the former, is high, with low land projecting from the hill; and near it to the eastward, is situated the third island, with low land projecting from its high hill. These two islands being near each other, appear as one Saddle Island when viewed in some bearings.

If a ship happen to be in the morning, near the small low island Tabtaboon, situated to the eastward of Samboangan, she will sometimes get a land breeze off the Mindanao shore, which may probably carry her through the strait before night, if the tide be favorable; but the winds are often light and variable at North and westward. The coast of Mindanao may be approached pretty close, the bank that lines it being steep to, and projects only to a small distance: there is no danger in the eastern part of the strait, and there are soundings along the Baseelan side, of various depths from 10 to 35 fathoms, where a ship may anchor occasionally, if she pass betwixt the island Manalipa and Baseelan. There is a large concavity a little within the N. E. point of Baseelan, where the depths decrease from 20, to 11 and 10 fathoms coarse sand and rotten coral, toward the Baseelan shore, favorable for anchoring to stop tide; and in some places, the bottom is fine sand to the northward of the islands. On the S. E. side of Baseelan, there appear to be no soundings unless very near the shore: within 1½ cable's length of the long low island that fronts it, nearly mid-way betwixt the eastern part of Baseelan and the island Boobooan, our boat could get no bottom with 60 fathoms of line; and about a ship's length from it, she got 18 fathoms rocky bottom.

* Ships are liable to experience strong currents at times near Baseelan. In March, we bad in the Anna, a very strong easterly current for two days, then it suddenly changed and set to the westward, by which we were drifted to the southward of the island, and obliged to pass round it on that side. Departing from Baseelan in July, for Macassar Strait, we were set 73 miles to the eastward, and 30 miles to the northward in two days by the current, which then changed suddenly, and set to the westward about 30 miles daily until we reached Cape Rivers. There are irregular tides in Baseelan Strait, sometimes weak, at other times strong.

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The Laurel after rounding the East point of Baseelan, steered into the strait, along that shore to the N. Westward, in soundings of 35 to 25 fathoms; and had from 30 to 14 fathoms in working through betwixt Manalipa and Baseelan, where she anchored part of the night.

Geo Site of Samboangan.

Auchorage.

SAMBOANGAN, in lat. 6° 43′ N., lon. 122° 14′ E. by lunar observations and chronometers, is a small Spanish settlement on the Mindanao shore, at the North side of the strait where water and refreshments may be procured. When at anchor in the road, Baseelan bore from S. 44° E. to S. 47° W., Manalipa and Sibago nearly in one S. 63½° E., the high spire of Samboangan E. 42½° N., distant ½ a mile. This place is protected by a fort regularly built, and well mounted with ordnance. There is little, or no variation here at present.

Santa Cruz Islands, and contiguous shoals.

SANTA CRUZ ISLANDS, two in number, are small, situated 4 or 5 miles to the S. Westward of Samboangan. By keeping along the Mindanao shore, there is a safe passage; but there is said to be great overfalls, with a bank of 4 fathoms coral rock, to the northward of these-islands. A bank of coral rock, projects also from Santa Cruz Islands to the S. Westward, on which H. M. S. La Sybille grounded in January, 1798. Ships which adopt the large channel betwixt these islands and Baseelan, must give a birth in passing, by not borrowing too close to the islands. To the westward of the Santa Cruz Islands, the strait is clear from side to side, with soundings of 20 fathoms about 2 miles from the Mindanao shore, deepening to 40 fathoms no ground in the offing.

Caldera.

A little inside of the S. W. point of Mindanao, which bounds the West entrance of the strait, there is a place called Dumalan, with the small settlement of Caldera, where fresh water may be procured. Although the soundings found in Baseelan Strait are very irregular, with rocky bottom in many places, there are no known dangers, excepting those adjoining to the Santa Cruz Islands, mentioned above.

Channels to the south-ward of Basealan.

CHANNELS SOUTH OF BASEELAN, appear to be safe, some of which may be chosen, when the winds or currents are unfavorable for proceeding to the northward through Baseelan Strait. There are safe passages betwixt some of the islands to the westward of Belawn, but they are not frequented; a ship proceeding through any of them, must take care of Takoot Saanga, a coral shoal distant about 5 miles E. S. Eastward from the Duo Bolod.

The channel betwixt the southern coast of Baseelan and the islands in the offing, is very safe, the least water said to be 9 or 10 fathoms; but it is not so wide as the Tapeantana Channel, which is the next to the southward, and generally frequented.

High Rock.

Approaching the islands to the eastward of Sooloo, care is requisite in the night, on account of a High Pyramidal Rock, situated about 8 or 10 leagues S. Eastward from the East end of Sooloo, and about 40 miles East of Sooloo town by chronometers.

Tapeantana Channel.

TAPEANTANA CHANNEL, bounded on the North side by the island of this name and Lanawan, and by the islands Belawn and Tattaran to the southward, is 2½ leagues wide in the narrowest part between Lanawan and Tattaran; but nearly 5 leagues wide at the entrance, betwixt the eastern part of Belawn and Tapeantana.

Geo. Site of Tapeantana islands adjoining.

TAPEANTANA ISLAND, has a regular peaked high mount on the western part, with low land stretching out to the eastward; the S. E. point is in lat. 6° 14½′ N., lon. 122° 8′ E.* by lunar observations, taken by Captain Heywood and myself, corresponding within 2 miles of each other. Boobooan Island, situated a little to the northward of Tapeantana, is very like it, having a mount of similar shape. Close to the eastward of these, there are some low

* The chronometers made it a little more to the westward, by admeasurement from Cape Donda.

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isles, the largest of which, lies off the East side of Boobooan; and a reef projects from the North part of Tapeantana, toward these low isles.

Belawn.

and adjacent islets.

BELAWN,* the outermost island on the South side of the channel, is the largest of these islands; having a high round mount on its western part, with a long space of low level land, extending several miles to the eastward. The East point of this island is in lat. 6° 0′ N., bearing nearly South from the East point of Tapeantana. Near the North part of Belawn, to the eastward of Tattaran, there are two small islets called Dipoolool; and about 2 miles off the N. W. end of Tattaran, lies a rock above water.

Tattaran, and Lanawan

Soundings.

TATTARAN, and LANAWAN, are two small islands of middling height; and until the and West end of the latter bear North, there are no soundings in coming from the eastward into the channel. When the current or ebb tide is running to the eastward, a ridge or line of strong ripplings appears sometimes like breakers, occasioned by the stream falling off the edge of the bank into deep water. When soundings are got on the steep edge of the bank, the water shoals immediately to 10 or 9 fathoms, soft bottom; and we found no less in the channel. In the South side of it, toward Tattaran, the water is much deeper; but the bottom there is not so even, nor so soft as in the northern side near Lanawan, which island is about 3 miles to the westward of Tapeantana.

Geo. Site of Tamook.

Duo Bolod.

TAMOOK ISLAND, in lat. 6° 28′ N., lon. 121° 56′ E. by lunar observations and chroonometers, distant 4 or 5 leagues N. Westward from Lanawan, is rather low: the fair channel is between it and the Duo Bolod, which are two remarkable hummocks about 4 league westward from Tattaran.

When a few miles to the westward of Lanawan the depths increase, which from thence to the South point of Mataha, are irregular from 25 to 40 fathoms; but from 30 to 35 fathoms, are the common soundings in the fair track. The bottom is fit for anchorage, consisting of sand and gravel, mixed with coral in some places: near the South side of Tamook, there are coral overfalls, and the depths less, than at 4 or 5 miles distance.

The tides in the channel to the southward of Tamook, set nearly N. W. and S. E.; the ebb to the S. Eastward, strongest in the S. W. monsoon, about 2½ and 2 miles per hour on the springs. This seems also to be the case in the opposite season, for in March, we had the tide setting from 1 to 2 miles per hour to the S. Eastward, and only a short slack when the flood ought to have been running to N. Westward. Having calms and faint variable airs at this time, we were obliged frequently to remain at anchor, and were eight days from entering the Tapeantana Channel, until we cleared the islands to the N. W. of Baseelan.

Geo. Site of Mataha.

MATAHA SOUTH POINT, in lat. 6° 32′ N., lon. 121° 50′ E. by chronometers, distant about 2 leagues N.W. by W. from Tamook, forms the eastern boundary of the entrance of Peelas Channel, which is bounded by the island Peelas on the West side. Mataha, and the other islands betwixt it and Baseelan, are low and woody.

Peelas.

PEELAS, is the largest of the islands that lie near Baseelan, being about 2 leagues in length North and South, all low level land, excepting on the North part where stands two hills: contiguous to its eastern shore, there is a small isle called Tagowloo.

Ballook Ballook and Peelas Channel.

BALLOOK BALLOOK, in lon. 121° 50′ E., bearing North from Mataha, is a considerable island, having a sloping hill at the North part, with low land to the southward; and

* The fishermen, wished to carry the Anna to the island, where they said we could anchor off a large village, and be supplied with good water, and refreshments: but some of the principal men of the place, who came on board, seemed to have sinister intentions.

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with Mataha, it forms the East side of the Peelas Channel, which is 4 or 5 miles wide, and very safe. This channel extends North and South, the tides in it appear regular, and pretty strong during the springs: the soundings are irregular from 25, to 35 or 40 fathoms, and off the South end of Mataha, there are 16 or 18 fathoms. About mid-way between Mataha and Ballook Ballook, there is said to be a rock or danger, in a direct line joining them.

To sail through it;

Having passed Tamook, keep nearest to Mataha in entering the Peelas Channel, to avoid some shoal coral patches that lie off the South end of the island Peelas, on one of which, the Neptune's boat, in June, 1801, had only 4 fathoms. When through the Peelas Channel, the fair track is directly to the northward, on the East sides of the islands Sangboys and Teynga, which are safe to approach: and there is a passage with 8 and 10 fathoms water between them. With a working wind, you ought not to stand near the N. W. part of Baseelan, to the eastward of Ballook Ballook, for the Mentor grounded on a shoal in this situation; to avoid which, ships that sail through the Inner Channel between the southern coast of Baseelan and the islands, should steer from the West point of Baseelan to the N. Westward, and borrow toward the N. E. side of Ballook Ballook in passing.

Sangboys.

SANGBOYS, in lat. 6° 481′ N.,* distant about 2½ leagues to the northward of the North extremity of Peelas, are two high islands close to each other, called sometimes the Hare's Ears. The hill on the South or Great Sangboy, resembles a dome, and from it projects out some low land.

Geo. Site of Teynga.

These islands destitute of good water.

TEYNGA, in lat. 6° 52′ N., lon. 121° 43′ E. by chronometers, distant about 4 miles to the N. Eastward of the North Sangboy, and on the meridian of the North end of Peelas, is small, very low, covered with trees, and it is the northernmost island of the Sooloo Archipelago: a reef projects from its southern part a little way, and from the northern part of the island, a rocky shoal extends a great distance to N. Eastward, on the extremity of which, the soundings decrease regularly from 15 to 7 fathoms; and from hence, soundings stretch across to the S. W. part of Mindanao and the Strait of Baseelan. All these islands abound with wood, but excepting Belawn, they appear to be destitute of good water in the dry season, according to the statement of the fishermen. Our boat could find no water on Tattaran, nor on Tamook, in March, but there is said to be some on the latter island, during the rains in the S. W. monsoon.

Maloza River.

MALOZA RIVER, situated on the S.W. side of Baseelan, in the eastern side of Maloza Bay, bears about N. N. E. from Tamook. The S. E. point of the bay has a tope of tall trees on it, with two small islands opposite, one of which, called Gowenen, is high, but not distinguished from the offing, being close to the shore of Baseelan. A ship intending to water at Maloza, may anchor near this island, the direct passage for boats going to the river, being betwixt the S. E. point of the bay and the island Gowenen. The mouth of the river is fronted by a shoal bar, over which a loaded long boat can only pass at high water; and we found here, but one flood during 24 hours, high water with the moon on the meridian. The village of Maloza is about a mile up the giver, the entrance of which being narrow, is not discernible until close to it; and the trees from each side joining together, and forming a canopy over it, makes the aspect very gloomy within.

This river is not a good watering place, for vessels not well armed; there are many obstructions from trees which have fallen into the river, and it becomes so narrow a little way in, that there is not room to row the oars. If a ship is obliged to water here, two boats ought to be sent together if possible, well armed; and when the water is observed to be fresh,

* Observations in H. M. S. Belliqueux, in July, 1807, made these islands several miles farther North. Capt. Torin, of the Coutts, also, made all the islands from Mataha to Teynga, about 4 miles farther North than the latitude stated above.

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they ought not to proceed higher, for it is not advisable to go up to the village of Maloza, owing to the perfidy of the natives.*

To sail to the northward along the coast of Mindanao.

Having proceeded about 4 leagues to the North of the island Teynga, you will have no more soundings in passing along the West coast of Mindanao, which is all bold high land, steep to, and should be coasted within a convenient distance. The winds here, in the N. E.monsoon, will be found light and variable from northward; but when brisk, they generally prevail between N. E. and East.

Port Maria

In lat. 7° 25′ N., about 7 leagues to the northward of the S. W. part of Mindanao, called Alimpapan Point, the Revenge watered in a small bight; but the shore was so steep, that she nearly tailed on the rocks, when in anchoring ground. Port Maria, is said to lie 4 or 5 leagues farther to the northward, having 30 fathoms water in the entrance, decreasing to 8 or 10 fathoms inside, where fresh water may be got, and shelter from all winds but those that blow at N. W. and westward, but it is little known to English navigators.

Geo. Site of Point Balagonan.

POINT BALAGONAN, in lat. 7° 51′ N., lon. 122° 24′ E. by lunar observations, is a projecting headland, sloping down into the sea; and Point Gorda, in lat. 8° 1′ N., distant about 5 leagues N. Eastward from it, terminates in a small hummock. The coast of Mindanao, trends from thence E. N. Eastward to Point Galera, which is the western extremity of Sindangan Bay.

Directions for sailing along the West sides of the Philippine Islands.

The passage from Baseelan to the northward, along the West sides of the Philippine Islands, may be performed at any time of the year in ships which sail well, by keeping near to the West coast of Mindanao, Negroes Island, Panay, Mindora, and Luconia. In October and part of November, the winds are often at S. W. and southward; and although they prevail from the northward, during the strength of the N. E. monsoon, from November to April; yet, under the West sides of the islands, light variable winds are sometimes experienced, or land and sea breezes, when close in with the shore. In the opening betwixt Mindanao and Negroes Island, and betwixt Panay and Mindora, brisk N. E. winds generally prevail, with a strong current setting through these guts to the westward; although there is seldom any current of consequence under the lee of the large islands. It is, therefore, prudent, to take every precaution in crossing those openings, not to fall to leeward; because, it would be unpleasant to be drifted off to the Cagayanes Islands, where some dangers exist, and considerable delay might follow, in regaining the windward shore.

Being abreast of Point Balagonan with a steady S. W. or southerly wind, steer a direct course for Point Naso, keeping rather a little to the eastward; if the winds are unsettled, light, and variable, keep along the coast of Mindanao to Point Galera, or thereabout, prior to stretching off from that coast, for Point Naso; and in crossing, endeavour to approach the West coast of Negroes Island.

Negroes Island.

BUGLAS, or NEGROES ISLAND, is high bold land on the West side, and seems safe to approach. From Point Siaton the southern extremity of the island, in about lat. 9° 2′ N., the West coast stretches nearly N. W. by N. to Point Sojoton in about lat. 9° 50′ N.,

* In March, 1793, the Anna's long-boat made three trips to this river for water, and twice went up to the village; the inhabitants seemed very friendly, and the fisherman we had as guide, endeavoured to persuade us to land, assuring us that we would be well treated at the village, that there were only women and children in it, the men being out fishing. This apparently seemed to be the case, for few men were seen, but plenty of women came to the boat with fowls, &c. to barter with the crew for handkerchiefs, knives, and trinkets. I, however, discovered from one of the boat's crew, who had landed and understood the language, that there were more than 100 armed men concealed behind the bushes, and he overheard two persons appoint the time when an attack was to be made on the boat. But fortunately their design was frustrated, for like true assassins, they had not courage to make the attack, because three Europeans in the boat, kept arms constantly in their hands. The ship Gloucester, of Bombay, about three years after, had two boats cut off, in attempting to water at this inhospitable place.

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then taking a N. Easterly direction, a wide opening is formed between it and the South part of Panay. To the northward of Point Siaton, the coast fonns a large bay, having a small low island in it, where there is anchorage in 13 fathoms ouze, in about lat. 9° 15′ N.

Cagayanes Islands.

CAGAYANES ISLANDS, bounding the West side of the passage, consist of two low woody islands of considerable size, the largest to the westward, and the narrow, space between them is filled with islets and rocks. They are surrounded by a reef, which projects a great way out from their northern extremity: detached from the easternmost island at 1 or 2 leagues distance, there is another reef; and to the S. Westward, lie the small Islands Caluja and Cavilli, at a considerable distance from each other.

CAVILLI ISLAND, is a high sand bank surmounted with a tuft of trees: breakers extend from its western side 5 or 6 miles, which require a wide birth, being steep to; and, even in a clear night, a ship might be amongst them before the island could be seen.

Geo.Site.

When the Cagayanes Islands bore W. by N. about 6 leagues distant, they were just visible from the deck; and the body of them is in lat. 9° 34′ N., lon. 121° 23½′ E. by mean of Captain Heywood's observations and my own, differing 4 miles from each other. There seems to be an opening in the reef, off the South point of the easternmost island, with soundings of 4 and 5 fathoms inside, forming a kind of harbour for small vessels.

Geo. Site of Point Naso; coast adjacent.

POINT NASO, or NASOG (I made) in lat. 10° 25′ N., lon. 122° 6′ E. by a series of lunar observations, and chronometers corresponding,* is a high bold head land forming the southern extremity of the Island Panay, and bears from Point Balagonan N. 7° W., distant about 52 leagues. Close to the point, there are two low isles, with soundings of 5 and 6 fathoms in the gut betwixt it and the northernmost isle, and from 10 to 20 fathoms near the reef that fronts the N. W. side of this isle.

Yloylo.

Along the S. E. and East coasts of Panay, there is a navigable strait, with moderate depths for anchorage among the numerous small isles; Mr. Dalrymple, went through this strait with the schooner Cuddalore in 1761. In the West entrance of the strait, where it is formed betwixt the large Island GUIMARAS and the coast of Panay, the depths are only 4 and 5 fathoms; but increase to 10 or 12 fathoms inside, at the Spanish settlement Yloylo. This place is about 10 leagues to the E. N. E. of Point Naso, and the strait here, forms a safe harbour, where supplies may be obtained if a ship is in want.

The West coast of Panay, is generally of moderate height near the sea, well peopled, and cultivated in many places with rice. Several villages, with churches, are discerned in sailing along, but no soundings are got unless close to the shore. A chain of mountains, very rugged in some parts, stretches inland from Point Naso to the northern extremity of the island.

Asloman Village, and coast adjacent.

ASLOMAN VILLAGE, in lat. 10° 32′ N., situated in the bottom of a small deep bay, about 2½ leagues to the northward of Point Naso, may probably afford refreshments, for it is a considerable place; but it is uncertain, whether there be any safe anchorage.

Coasting along from Point Naso to Antique Bay, we could get no soundings 3 or 4 miles off shore.

Antique Bay.

ANTIQUE BAY, about 5½ leagues to the northward of Point Naso, is a convenient place to stop at for water and refreshments, there being a Spanish Governor, with a few Europeans and some native troops, stationed at the Village Antique, where there is a small river and fort. When a ship is running into the bay with a brisk wind, sail must be reduced in time; for the bank being steep, no soundings are got until abreast of the fort about 2½ or 2

* Captain Heywood, made it in lat. 10° 24′ N., lon. 122° 8′ E. by chronometers.

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miles distance, and the depths quickly decrease from 30 or 25 fathoms, to 8 or 7 fathoms sandy bottom, which is the proper anchorage.

Anchorage.

The Laurel, from Bengal bound to Macao, after passing through the Straits of Sunda, Macassar, and Baseelan, steered to the westward of these islands, and touched at Antique Bay, April 12th, 1788, where a Portuguese ship and two Spanish snows were at anchor. When at anchor in the bay, in 7 fathoms sand, the observed lat. 10° 42′ N., the fort bearing E. by N. ½ N. 1½ or 2 miles, and the extreme points S. ¾ W. and N. W. N., the North point of the bay distant about 3 miles.

By permission of the Governor, she procured wood and water, some paddy, poultry, and a bullock; but no fruit or vegetables could be got at that time.

Point Potol, and adjacent coast.

Direction.

POINT POTOL, in about lat. 11° 48′ N., bearing North a little westerly from Point Naso, is the north-westernmost head-land of the Island Panay, and over it stands a high mountain, discernible at a great distance. From Antique Bay to Point Potol, the coast may be approached in day-light, within 3 or 4 miles, there being no hidden danger. Near the shore, in about lat. 11° 32′ N., lie two small islands; another island, bears S. W. 4 or 5 leagues distant from Point Potol, having a safe and wide channel betwixt it and Panay.

This track contiguous to the coast, seems preferable to the channel in the offing between the dry sand bank and Cuyos Islands; for in the N. E. monsoon, land and sea breezes will sometimes be found in shore, when calms or baffling airs prevail outside.

Geo. Site of Dry Sand Bank.

DRY SAND BANK, in lat. 11° 24½′ N., lon. 121° 54′ E. by our chronometer, in the Anna, situated in the channel to the westward of Panay, bearing from Point, Naso N. by W. distant 20 leagues, is a little elevated from the water, and may be seen about 6 miles from the deck. It is distant about 5 or 6 leagues off the Panay shore, and is in one with a high peaked mountain bearing E. ½ N., and the channel between it and the islands to the westward, is about 9 or 10 leagues wide.

Sombrero Rock.

White Rock.

SOMBRERO ROCK, in lat. 10° 45′ N., distant about 9 leagues from the coast of Panay, is very little larger than a long boat, and can only be discerned about 3 leagues distance from the poop of a large ship, generally appearing black. It bears from Point Naso N. 51° W. distant 12½ leagues, from the centre of Grand Cuyo E. 14° S., and from Paguayan the easternmost of the Cuyo Islands S. 46° E., distant 20 miles. Soundings appear to extend from the Cuyo Islands nearly to the Sombrero rock; when it bore S. 9° W., seen from the Crosjack yard, the Coutts had 120 fathoms green sand at noon, the observed lat. 10° 55′ N. There is another WHITE ROCK, in lat. 10° 28′ N., distant about 7 leagues South from the S. W. pout of Grand Cuyo, which is far to the westward of the common track.

Cuyos Islands.

Geo. Site of Quiniluban.

CUYOS ISLANDS, named from Grand Cuyo, the largest of them, consist of an extensive group of mostly high rocky islands of various sizes, fronting the West side of the channel opposite to Panay, the nearest of them being 12 or 14 leagues distant from that coast. Grand Cuyo, in about lat. 10° 52′ N. is one of the southernmost, well cultivated with rice in some parts, but many of the other islands are barren and rocky. They extend from lat. 10° 40′ N. in a N. N. W. direction to Quiniluban the northernmost island, in lat. 11° 28′ N., lon. 121° 11′ E. by chronometer; which bears from the Dry Sand Bank about W. ½ N., distant 14 leagues, and is a high island, with others near it to the southward.

There are soundings near these islands on the East side, from 40 to 75 fathoms; also among, and to the westward of them, there are safe channels, with various depths from 30 to 60 fathoms: nevertheless, a large ship ought not to pass between any of them, if it can

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be avoided, for reefs extend a great way from some of these islands, and there are several shoal patches of coral not well known.

Caravaos.

Simirara Islands.

CARAVAOS, or BUFFALOS, in about lat. 11° 53′ N., bearing from Quiniluban about N. E. by E. distant 14 or 15 leagues, are two islands which bound the channel on the East side, and lie in a W. N. W. direction from Point Potol: they ought to be approached with caution in the night, for the outermost is very low. To the N. Westward of these, lie the SIMIRARA ISLANDS, having a long sand projecting a great way out from them, with two islets on its centre, covered with trees. When passing this sand at 3 miles distance, it bore from E. S. E. to N. N. W., a rock off the northernmost Simirara Island bearing then N. E. ½ E., and the easternmost of the Buffalos E. by S.

Falmouth's Bank.

FALMOUTH'S BANK, situated betwixt Quiniluban and the Strait of Mindora, is of considerable extent North and South, with various depths on it from 60 to 20 fathoms, and the least water found on it, was 11 or 12 fathoms coral rock. Upon the North part of it, the fleet had soundings, May 30th, 1801, with the island Ambolon bearing N. 3° E., and Simirara from N. 60° E. to N. 63° E.; the Coutts had then 68 fathoms, next cast 14 fathoms, with Simirara N. 63° E., southern part of Calamianes W.5° S., Quiniluban S. 20° W., and carried soundings of 12½ to 15 fathoms for a considerable distance, steering S. S. E.

Other banks.

There are other coral banks in this neighbourhood, detached from the Falmouth's Bank, on one of which we had several casts in the night of 22 to 25 fathoms, then no ground at SO fathoms. By the bearings at day-light, this bank appeared to bear from Quiniluban N. ½ E. distant about 5 leagues, and E. ¼ S. from the South extremity of the Calamianes. On another bank, about 6 or 6½ leagues to the N. W. of Quiniluban, and 4 or 5 leagues to the eastward of the Southern Calamianes, the Betsey had only 5 fathoms.

Strait of Mindora.

STRAITS OF MINDORA, is separated into two channels by the Apo Shoal; the western one, formed betwixt this shoal and Calamianes, is 6 leagues wide, called sometimes Northumberland Strait; the other formed betwixt the West coast of Mindora and the shoal, is 4 or 5 leagues wide.*

Geo. Site of the islands fronting the S. W. end of Mindora.

AMBOLON, and EAST and WEST YLIN, with a contiguous islet, front the S. W. end of Mindora at a small distance, and are of moderate height; Ambolon being the westernmost of these three islands, but East Ylin projects farthest to the southward. The South end of this island is in lat. 12° 9′ N., lon. 121° 15′ E., or 7° 43′ East of Macao, by chronometers, and bears from the dry sand bank off Panay, N. 38° W. distant 20 or 21 leagues.

To sail from Panay toward them.

In running across from Panay toward these islands in the night, care must be taken when borrowing on the East, or windward side of the channel, in order to give a birth to the Buffalos, and the sand that projects from the Simirara Islands. When within 6 leagues of Ambolon and Ylin, haul to the westward, and keep at 4 or 5 leagues distance from them, until their southern extremity bears E. S. E. ½ S.; being then clear to the northward of the coral banks that lie to the westward of these islands, haul in for the Mindora shore, if you intend to pass between it and Apo Shoal.

Coral banks off those islands.

Exclusive of the shoal said to project from these islands to the S. Eastward several miles, there is a coral bank, or a chain of banks, to the westward of them; for in working to the southward in June, 1792, returning from China in the Anna, we got suddenly into 13 and 9 fathoms bright coral rocks, seen under the bottom, and immediately after tacking to the west-

* Capt. Ross, in his survey of the Apo Shoal, thinks this channel to be only about 4 leagues wide; but in passing twice through it in the Anna, it appeared to ns, to be not less than 5 or 6 leagues wide.

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ward, got no soundings. The observed lat. 12° 13′ N. when we tacked at noon in 9 fathoms, with the low point at the S. W. end of Mindora bearing E. N. E. ¾ N., extremes of the islands near it from E. N. E. to E. by S. ¾ S., the body of Ambolon E. ½ S. distant nearly 3 leagues, and the Calamianes from West to W. S. W. ¾ S. After standing 4 miles to the westward, stood back and tacked on the edge of the coral bank in 13 fathoms, with the southern extremity of the islands off the S. W. end of Mindora bearing E. by S. ¼ S., and the body of the southernmost island E. ¼ S., distant 3 or 3½ leagues. From thence, stood 3 miles N. Westward, and saw the rocks under the bottom on a coral patch, with apparently 12 or 15 fathoms water on it; but before the lead could be hove, we were off it, out of soundings; the Calamianes bore then from W. ¾ S. to S. W. ½ W. distant about 8 leagues, the islands off the S. W. end of Mindora from E. by N. to E. S. E. ¼ S., Ambolon the nearest island, distant about 4 leagues.

Directions to avoid them.

As the Lord North and other ships, seem to have passed within a few miles of the West side of Ambolon without getting soundings, these coral banks are probably detached from the islands. It may nevertheless, be prudent, to keep about 4½ or 5 leagues from the West sides of the islands, in order to pass outside of these steep coral banks, or bank; for the verge of soundings was conspicuous by the discoloured water, which appeared shoaler in upon the bank to the eastward, than where we tacked in 9 and 13 fathoms; but no broken water could be perceived. From 10 to 12 fathoms, the bank shelves down to no ground 80 fathoms, at the distance of ½ a cable's length to the westward.

Port Mangarin.

PORT MANGARIN, formed between Point Buruncan (which is the southern extremity of Mindora) and the contiguous islands Ylin and Ambolon, is sheltered from all winds, with good depths of water; but at the entrance, betwixt the N. W. point of Ylin and Mindora, there are some rocks, with 5 or 6 fathoms water between them.

Apo Shoal.

APO, or APPO SHOAL, situated between the West coast of Mindora and the Island of Busvagon, was examined by the Company's ships Discovery and Investigator, in 1816, and its true position determined by correct observations and good chronometers.

Geo. Site of North Point and

East Point.

Islands on it.

The northern extremity of the shoal, is in lat. 12° 45′ N., lon. 120° 31′ E. or 11¼ miles eastward of Point Calavite on Mindora: from the northern extremity it extends S. E. by S. 7½ miles, where it forms a very narrow spit or East point, in lat. 12° 40¼′ N., lon. 120° 36′ E.; from the eastern point, the southern extreme bears S. 35° W. distant 5½ miles, and between the two points, there are several indentures or gaps in the shoal. On the western side of it, there are two islands, the western one being largest, about ½ a mile in diameter, is covered with trees, and white beaches line its northern and eastern sides, with a surrounding reef projecting about 1½ a mile. This island does not appear to be connected with the Apo Shoal, but about 1½ mile to the E. N. E. of it, lies the small island formed of barren black rocks, which is situated on the S. Westernmost part of the shoal.

Geo. Site of the large Island.

Black rocks.

The large island is in lat. 12° 39′ N., lon. 120° 28′ E., or 84 miles eastward of point Calavite: from the centre of this island, the North point of the shoal bears N. 24° E., distant 7 miles; the eastern point bears from it E. 9° N., distant 8 miles; and the South point bears S. 56° E., distant 6¾ miles. The whole extent of the shoal is 10 miles from its North to its South points, and 9 miles from its East point to the western part of the large island. There are two high black rocks to the N. E. of the small island, which may be seen about 2 leagues off, and the islands in clear weather, may be seen (from an elevation of 20 feet) about 3½ leagues. At low water, many small rocks are dry on the shoal, particularly along its north side.

Coral bank.

Small round bank of coral rocks, on which the Discovery anchored, and found the least water 9 fathoms, lies 7 miles eastward, of the eastern point of Apo Shoal. When at anchor on it, the large island on the Apo Shoal visible half way up the lower rigging, bore W. 6° S.,

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and the northernmost one of two small islands that lie off Pandan Point on Mindora, bore N. 25½° E., distant 7 or 8 miles, by which it appears, that in the late Spanish survey of the west coast of Mindora, these islands are placed about 2 miles too much to the eastward of Point Calavite, which seems to make the channel between them and the eastern point of Apo Shoal only about 4 leagues wide.

Eastern Channel

To pass it at night.

Ships intending to pass between the coast of Mindora and the shoal, if at night, should keep about 2 leagues off the small islands near Pandan Point, as the eastern point of the Apo Shoal is very narrow, and should the wind be westerly, you would not readily perceive it, nor would there be breakers to make known your approach to danger.

Whilst examining the Apo Shoal, the Discovery and Investigator, were frequently very near it without obtaining soundings, and the boats found it very steep to, in all parts. Land and sea breezes were experienced here in March, the latter from West and S. W., with the tide or current setting to the northward: land and sea breezes prevailed also to the westward of the Calamianes.

Western Channel six leagues wide.

NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT, or the channel westward of the Apo Shoal. Appears to be preferable at all times, it being 6 leagues wide, with the advantage of the large Apo Island to guide you when passing the shoal, and knowing that you may approach the island to the westward within 1 mile.

The islands situated to the northward of the Calamianes and Busvagon, were also examined by the Discovery and Investigator, and their situations well determined.

Geo. Site of North Rock.

NORTH ROCK, in lat. 12° 27′ N.; lon. 120° 4′ E., or 15½ miles West of Calavite Point, is a high black rock, having three others at a short distance to the westward of it; this is the northernmost of these islets which lie on the West side of the western channel, and it may be seen 4 or 5 leagues from the deck. Capt. Ross made the North Rock as stated above. Passing in the Anna, in 1792, our observations made it in lat. 12° 26′ N., lon. 120° 6′ E., corresponding with the Castlereagh's chronometer, which made it 14° 39′ East of Pulo Domar.

The largest island on Apo Shoal, bears from the North Rock N. 62° E., distant 25 miles; near this rock to the northward, there are 40 and 50 fathoms water, and the same depths between it and Busvagon, on a muddy bottom.

Turret Island.

TURRET ISLAND, bearing from North Rock S.50° E. distant 7¼ miles, is small and rocky, having several detached rocks about it, and a remarkable hummock on its S. W. point, somewhat similar to a turret.

other Island.

Black Rock.

From North Rock S. 63° E., distant 16 miles, lie two small islands covered with trees, which have sandy beaches, and about 1½ mile to the northward of them, there is a black rock above water. These two islands bear from the western island on the Apo Shoal S. 24° W., distant 19 miles, and is the nearest to this shoal of any of the islands lying off Busvagon; there are 25 fathoms on a coral bottom, about 4 miles to the northward, and the same depth about 4 miles to the eastward of these islands.

Group of Islands.

Coral banks.

GROUP OF ISLANDS, extending from lat. 12° 8′ to 12° 17′ N., bear about S. by W. from Apo Island, the northern one of which appears to be the largest, and they are the easternmost islands hereabout: overfalls of 25 to 9 fathoms, were got about 2 miles to the N. Eastward of the northern island, and the channels between the islands did not appear very clear. Soundings of 23 fathoms were found about 7 miles to the N. E. of this group of islands, and two casts of 24 fathoms, on a bank about 9 miles to the westward of Apo Shoal, by which we may infer, that there are several such coral knowls about these straits, although probably not so shoal as to be dangerous to ships.

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CALAVITE ISLAND, or HIGH ISLAND, in lat. 12° 21′ N., lon. 119° 56½′ E. by Capt. Ross, bearing from North Rock S. 51° W. 9¾ miles, is about 2 miles to the northward of the northern point of Busvagon; the channel between them does not appear free of danger, as some rocks were seen above water to the eastward of the island.

Sail Rock.

About a mile to the N. W. of Calavite Island, there are rocks above water, one of which, named SAIL ROCK, is very remarkable, and 1¾ mile to the N. W. of this, lies a large black rock, or N. W. ROCK, in lat. 12° 23¼′ N., lon. 119° 54¾′ E. When passing between these had 38 fathoms, and about 2 miles to the N. N. E. of the N. W. Rock, passed over a coral spot in 8 fathoms.

Pinnacle Rock.

PINNACLE ROCK, in lat. 12° 18½′ N. about 2 miles West of the North point of Busvagon, is a very sharp rock above water, having 25 fathoms water about 2 miles to the westward of it, and 12 fathoms about 1 mile off. In lat. 12° 9′ N., lon. 119° 51¼′ E. lies the HAYCOCK, a high rocky island, situated about 2 miles off the West part of Busvagon, which may be seen 6 or 7 leagues; about 2½ miles West of it, soundings of 26 fathoms were found, with overfalls; 19 fathoms about 6 miles off, and 30 fathoms about 11 miles off.

Geo. Site of Green Island.

GREEN ISLAND, in lat. 12° 3′ N. lon. 119° 49¼′ E., is of moderate height, may be seen about 5 leagues off, and is covered, with trees; it is the westernmost island hereabout, surrounded by a coral reef, extending about ⅓ of a mile off. To the eastward of Green Island, there is a large bay or passage, with numerous small islands in it, and about 3 or 4 miles to the N. W. of the island, the Discovery got overfalls on a coral shoal, but did not find less than 5 fathoms: to the eastward of the island, 23 fathoms were found, and 9 and 10 fathoms close to the reef.

In lat. 11° 56¼′ N., lon. 119° 51½′ E., there is a high point of land, apparently the western extremity of the Calamianes, near which lies a rock above water, and a short distance to the S. W. there are other rocks above water. From this point the land curves in to the eastward, and extends to another high point in about lon. 119° 56′ East, forming several points; and to the southward of the southern extreme, there is apparently a wide strait or channel, leading to the eastward.

Calamianes.

CALAMIANES, or CALIAMANES, are a group of high islands of various sizes, situated between the North end of Palawan and Mindora, the northernmost of which have been described above. BUSVAGON, is the largest of them, distant about 14 or 15 leagues from Mindora, and with the small isles that line its eastern shore, bounds Northumberland Strait on the West side. If passing through this strait with a westerly wind, borrow toward Busvagon and the isles on that side, which are safe to approach; or with an easterly wind, the Large Apo Island which bounds the East side of the strait, may be approached occasionally to 1½ mile. On the East side of Busvagon, there are soundings among some of the small isles, and anchorage in one part, near the shore of the former. CORON, situated to the southward of Busvagon, is also a considerable island, with small isles near it on the East side, and forms the southern limit of the Calamianes, in lat. 11° 46′ N. Near the S. E. part of Coron, lies the Island Delian, with a round rock close to its South point, to the eastward of which, H. M. S. Belliqueux, in July, 1807, got 5½ fathoms on a coral bank about 3½ leagues East of Delian, and 12 fathoms coral on another bank, about 5 leagues to the S. S. E. of the same island; with generally soundings from 40 to 55 fathoms near them, and the same depths northward to the Island Diviran, and 44 and 45 fathoms toward Gap Island, which lies near the East side of Coron, bearing about North from Delian, and S. Westward from Diviran.

West coast of Mindora.

WEST COAST OF MINDORA, has no soundings excepting in the bays, or within

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or 2 miles of the shore, in some places. Inland, double and treble chains of mountains extend through the island, and some low points of land project from them into the sea.

From the low point Mangarin, opposite to the North end of the island Ambolon, the cost is low and woody close to the sea, to the distance of 4 or 5 leagues N. Westward; having a beach and some inlets like rivers in this space, with the village of Ililin. There is said to be a shoal stretching along the shore, to the southward of Usuanga Bay, with two islets close to the coast, in about lat. 12° 35′ N.

Usuanga Bay.

USUANGA BAY, about 6 leagues to the northward of the Island Ambolon, is about 1½ mile wide, and nearly the same depth, with soundings of 30 fathoms in the entrance, decreasing to 8 or 9 fathoms sandy bottom inside. A rocky reef with soundings from 1 to 3 fathoms on it, projects from the North point of the bay above ½ a mile to the southward, which must be avoided, if a ship stop here for water. It is prudent not to anchor under 10 or 12 fathoms, without first examining the ground, for near the rocky islets at the bottom of the bay, there is shoal water and rocky bottom. Fresh water is found in a large pond at the S. E. side of the bay.

Point Dongan and the adjacent coast.

POINT DONGAN, or PAKDAN, is a low projecting head-land about 3 leagues farther to the northward, in about lat. 12° 48′ N., having two small islands off it, and a bay on the North side. From hence, there are soundings within 2 miles of the shore, as far as, Santa Cruz Point, situated 5 leagues more to the northward, where a ship may occasionally anchor off the river and village of that name. The coast hereabout, abounds with good pasturage, and in sailing along, we saw herds of bullocks grazing.

To the N. W. of Santa Cruz Point, lies Tulaba River and Bay, with soundings of 8 and 9 fathoms about a mile off shore, opposite to a peaked hill. In lat. 13° 10′ N. a reef projects near 2 miles from the North point of Masi Bay, with from 2 to 6 fathoms on the North side of it in Mamburao Bay, the West point of which in lat. 13° 14′ N. is also fronted by a reef, with the whole of the latter bay. Point Tibili is about 5 miles farther to the N. W., from whence in a northerly direction, there are soundings near the shore into Palaon Bay.

Palaon Bay.

PALAON, or PALASAN BAY, about 2 leagues to the E. S. Eastward of Point Calavite, extends northward into the land about 3 or 4 miles, and is of circular form, having a reef projecting from the western point of the entrance. The soundings in it, are from 30 to 15 fathoms sand or mud, where a ship may anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms, and procure fresh water at a small village, where there is a river, with a red cliff near it, at the N. Eastern part in the bottom of the bay.

Geo. Site of Point Calavite.

POINT CALAVITE, in lat. 13° 27′ N., lon. 120° 20′ E. or 6° 48′ East from Macao by chronometer, forms the N. W. extremity of Mindora, and bears N. 31° W. from the Island Ambolon, distant 29 leagues. Betwixt the point and Palaon Bay, there are soundings near the shore, which is bold to approach; for the few rocks interspersed along this part of the coast, adjacent to the point, lie close in, and one of them, just above water, has a sandy beach adjoining, upon the projecting part of the coast that forms Calavite Point. Over this point, stands the mountain Calavite, of regular sloping form, which is visible at a great distance in clear weather.

To sail along the West coast of Mindora;

Having rounded the islands off the S. W. end of Mindora, as before directed, if to pass through the eastern channel, after hauling in for the Mindora coast to avoid the southern extremity of the Apo Shoal, you ought with an easterly wind, to keep within 2 or 3 leagues of that coast, in proceeding along it to the northward. With a westerly wind, do not exceed the distance of 3, or 3½ leagues from the coast, until clear to the northward of the Apo Shoal; and in the night, it is prudent to borrow nearer to the coast than to the shoal. Va-

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riable winds, or land and sea breezes, may be expected here, in March and April, and also along the coast of Luconia. Having rounded Point Calavite, and passed Luban and Goat Island, you may proceed along the coast of Luconia to Cape Bolina, conforming to the directions given in the description of that coast, and to those for proceeding to Canton River by the Palawan Passage, which will be found in the 2d Section, under the title "China Sea."

and from thence toward China.

DIRECTIONS for the RETURNING PASSAGE from CHINA, on the WEST SIDES of the PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.

Directions for sailing from China late in April, or in May.

ALTHOUGH SHIPS departing from CANTON RIVER, toward the end of April or in May, will be able sometimes to make a direct passage through the China Sea to Malacca Strait, in some years they may find difficulty in doing so. But it will answer no useful purpose, for ships bound to the western side of Hindoostan, or to Europe, to pursue that route if adverse winds are found to prevail; because these winds will continue adverse, in working out of the western part of the strait of Malacca, and will remain so, after rounding Achen Head, in proceeding through a space of 12° or 14° of lat., or until the limit of the S. E. trade is approached in lat. 7° or 8° S.

Neither ought ships to pursue the route to the southward for Gaspar Straits, or the Carimata Passage, in May or June; because, S. E. winds then prevailing with N. Westerly curents, render the passage through between the islands very tedious in these months, particularly in a ship that sails indifferently. It seems therefore, proper, for ships departing from Canton River late in April or in May, to adopt the passage to the westward of the Philippine Islands, if bound to the western side of Hindoostan or to Europe; particularly when easterly winds are experienced at leaving the Grand Ladrone, which would retard them getting out into the Pacific Ocean, were they inclined to proceed by that route.

To proceed toward Mindora Strait in these months.

Departing from the Grand Ladrone, late in April, or in Mav, and intending to pursue the route by Mindora Strait, steer southward to the Macclesfield Bank, if the wind admit, particularly in May, to be enabled to reach the N. W. end of Mindora without tacking, should the wind veer round to S. Westward.

If near the Macclesfield Bank with the wind at S. W. or S. S.W., steer to the S. E., by the wind; although unable to weather Point Calavite, variable winds may be expected near the coast of Luconia, to carry you round the N. W. end of Mindora; whereas, about 2° or 3° off the coast, light breezes prevail at South or S. S. E. in May, or early in June.

To sail to the southward through that strait.

If you adopt the eastern strait, or that formed between Mindora and the Apo Shoal, keep within 3½ or 4 leagues of the coast in passing the latter, when the wind inclines from S. Westward in the day time; but the winds are frequently variable, inclining to irregular land and sea breezes, and you may borrow within a few miles of Mindora with a land wind. In steering southward along the coast, when the islands off the S. W. end of Mindora are first seen, they will appear separated from it by a wide opening, as the low land that forms the S. W. end of that island, is not then discernible. Keep about 5 leagues from the islands Ambolon and Ylin in passing, when their southern extremity bears between E. S. E. ½ S. and E. N. E. to give a birth to coral rocks which lie to the westward of them.

Northumberland Strait, or that formed between Apo Shoal and the Islands Calamianes, being wider than the eastern strait, should be chosen if the wind admit, and either side of it

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may be borrowed on, as circumstances require, the channel being 6 leagues wide between the large island at the western edge of Apo Shoal, and those of the Calamianes.

along the coast of Panay.

When the South end of the Calamianes is bearing West about 5½ or 6 leagues distant, Quiniluban will be seen bearing S. by E. or S. S. E. 6 or 7 leagues, if the weather be clear: borrow toward this island with a westerly wind, to pass to the westward of the Dry Sand Bank; then proceed, or work along the West coast of Panay at any discretional distance. Although irregular land and sea breezes, arc sometimes experienced close to the West coasts of Mindora and Panay in the S. W. monsoon, yet the prevailing winds are between South and West, with cloudy weather and frequent heavy showers of rain. The currents are seldom strong in this season, but they are liable to set to the eastward in the opening between Negroes Island and the North part of Mindanao.

through Baseelan Strait,

Departing from Point Naso, in June or July, haul to the S. S. Westward in crossing over, to make the coast of Mindanao well to the southward, and to check any easterly current that may probably be running in between Mindanao and Negros Island; but, with an easterly wind, steer a direct course for Point Balagonan. Having reached the S. W. end of Mindanao, the route through Baseelan Strait ought to be chosen in preference to that through amongst the islands to the southward, for it is more direct than the latter.

and from thence,

Having rounded the East end of Baseelan, if you intend to pass through either of the straits East of Java, into the Indian Ocean, you have the choice of proceeding by the strait of Macassar, or by the Molucca Passage; the latter route is considered, by some navigators, more certain and expeditious, when the S. E. monsoon prevails to the southward of the equator. Indifferent sailing ships, which proceed through the strait of Macassar, are seldom able to reach Allass Strait, without working round to the eastward of the Kalkoon Islands and Shoals, which prolongs the passage; and if the S. E. monsoon blow strong, it may sometimes be found impracticable to work against it:* whereas, ships proceeding to the southward by the Molucca Passage, enter into the S. E. monsoon so far to the eastward, that they have the choice of proceeding through any of the straits at discretion. But for ships intending to touch at Batavia, or to proceed through Sunda Strait, the route by the strait of Macassar may be found most convenient.

by the Strait of Macassar;

If the strait of Macassar be chosen, steer a course from Baseelan as the prevailing winds and currents require; for the former are often light and variable, although generally betwixt South and West, when they are a little steady. Nevertheless, Easterly, or S. Easterly breezes, continue sometimes for four or five days together.

The currents are also very mutable, sometimes setting strong to the eastward, along the South side of Mindanao, in June and July, and afterward to S. Eastward, in the track from thence to Celebes: but they are liable to change and run to the westward. In June, the fleet had strong S. E. currents in the track from Baseelan to Cape Donda; and early in July, we had them setting mostly to the westward, with S. E. and Easterly winds.

If the wind be steady at eastward, Cape Donda bearing about S. S. E. or South, will be a good landfall. But the winds generally draw to the westward as the North entrance of Macassar Strait is approached, with a current frequently setting out of the strait to the eastward, rendering it prudent to keep to the westward if possible, and make Point Kanneeoongan; if you fall in with the coast of Celebes far to the eastward of Cape Donda, much time may be lost, beating into the strait against the westerly winds and N. E. currents. The fleet, which fell in with the coast of Celebes far to the eastward of Cape Rivers, June 19th,

* The homeward-bound fleet, left the Grand Ladrone about the middle of May, 1801, and proceeded to the westward of the Philippine Islands, through Macassar and Allass Straits. Although they kept along the Celebes side of the former strait, to the eastward of the Little Pater Nosters, they lost some days beating round the Kalkoon Islands, were eight days from in sight of Little Pulo Laut to Bally Town in Allass Strait, where they anchored, July 15th, and found an American ship had been here two days, which left China with them, and came by the outer track through Dampier's Strait and the Pitt's Passage.

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1801, did not get round Cape Donda until the 2d of July. And the Fox, Lord North, and Hastings, were from the 26th of May to the 6th of June, 1781, near the North coast of Celebes, endeavouring to work into Macassar Strait without gaining any ground; and were obliged to bear away for the Molucca Passage.*

Having entered the Strait of Macassar, the route along the Celebes side may be pursued if your ship sail indifferently, or if you intend to pass through the Strait of Allass, in order to pass well to the eastward of Pulo Laut, by being more to windward than by proceeding along the coast of Borneo, to the westward of the Little Pater Nosters. But great caution is requisite in pursuing the eastern route, when crossing the latitude of the Laurel's Shoal, and of those to the northward of the islands Noesa Seras, already described in the directions given for the Strait of Macassar.

If bound to Batavia, or through the Strait of Sunda, proceed to the southward as the winds admit, observing not to increase the lat. above 1° 50 S. until the Borneo coast is approached within 4 or 5 leagues; which must be continued so, in passing the Little Pater Nosters, that the dangers in the offing, fronting these islands, be avoided; and the coast from Ragged to Shoal Points, must be approached still nearer, on account of the shoals which bound the East side of the channel in that part.

S. E. winds generally blow strong into the South entrance of the strait, during the S. E. monsoon, producing a considerable swell, and are sometimes accompanied by a northerly current. This may excite apprehensions of difficulty being experienced in getting round, Great Pulo Laut, more particularly, as the Admiral Pocock found it impracticable to beat round in July, and was obliged to return to Sooloo for provisions. But this ship probably had a very foul bottom, and sailed badly, for ships which sail tolerably, seldom experience much delay in working round Pulo Laut in the S. E. monsoon. In July, we had in the Anna, a fresh monsoon at S. E. and S. S. E., with a heavy sea against us; notwithstanding, we soon worked round, for the current apparently set to the southward out of the strait, in opposition to the wind and sea. Nevertheless, the eastern side of the strait may be pursued in an indifferent sailing ship, that she may be enabled to clear Pulo Laut with the S. E. wind, without the risk of prolonging her passage by having to work round.

From the South end of Great Pulo Laut, a steady and fresh easterly monsoon, with clear weather, will be experienced in steering to the westward between Java and Borneo.

Or by the Molucca Passage

MOLUCCA PASSAGE, may be pursued, if the winds and currents are found after leaving Baseelan, to be unfavorable for proceeding toward the Strait of Macassar. In such case, steer for the islands contiguous to the N. Eastern extremity of Celebes, and after passing through the channel betwixt the islands Banca and Bejaren, and having rounded the N. E. end of Celebes, proceed to the southward between Lissamatula and Oby Major, which is the common passage; or otherwise through Greyhound's Straits.

Sometimes it is tedious getting through the Molucca Passage to the southward, because the current often runs through it to the northward; but the winds are light and variable at times, and the current liable to change.

It appears, however, that a N. Easterly current prevails greatly betwixt Celebes and Gillolo, particularly in the southerly monsoon, so that indifferent sailing ships may not be always competent to beat through the Molucca Passage, to the southward: but this may be effected if they keep close to the coast of Gillolo, and pass betwixt it and Batchian, through the strait of Patientia; or through the Strait of Batchian, formed between the island of this name, and

* They got into the Molucca Passage, June 9th, and continued to beat against southerly winds and constant northerly currents, until July 4th, but could not get to the southward betwixt Lissamatula and Oby Major. The Fox, being the best sailer, got through; but the Lord North, and Hastings, were obliged to go round Gillolo and Morty, and after a great loss of time, entered the Pitt's Passage by Dampier's Strait. They sailed from China, April 1st, came through the Mindora Sea, and touched at Sooloo.

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the islands Tawally and Maregolang. Nevertheless, should a ship happen to be near the North end of Gillolo, or Morty, in the strength of the southerly monsoon, the route through the Gillolo Passage seems preferable to that by the Molucca Passage; for ships generally get speedily through the former, into the Pitt's Passage.*

A channel placed in the charts, has no existence.

It may be proper in this lace to observe that in all the old charts English and Dutch there is a good passage with soundings of 20 and 17 fathoms, laid down betwixt the large islands Xulla Mangola and Xulla Talyabo; but H. M. S. Greyhound could find no such passage. This ship was proceeding from Manado at the N. E. part of Celebes, toward the South end of Bouton, in order to intercept a ship about to sail from Amboina with spices for Batavia: and with a view to shorten the passage, she intended to proceed through the channel represented on the charts, betwixt the Xulla Islands, mentioned above. To their great surprise, no such channel could be found, but the wind favoring them, they passed to the westward round the West end of Xulla Talyabo, and got speedily to the South end of Bouton.

East coast of Celebes.

EASTERN COAST OF CELEBES, adjoining to the Molucca Passage, is very imperfectly known, and little frequented. The extensive peninsulas of which this coast is formed, are fronted by islands of various sizes; and many islands are interspersed over the great bays of Tolo, and Tominie, or Goonong Tella. In the latter bay, which stretches inland nearly to the West side of Celebes, there are soundings in some parts near the shore, and probably good harbours, formed by some of the islands.

Geo. Bite of Goonong Tella River.

GOONONG TELLA RIVER, situated on the North side of the bay, in lat. 0° 28½ N., lon. 123° 15′ E., has two small coves just within the entrance on the eastern side; into either of which a small ship may haul, and moor to the large stones that lie on the beach. Here, she will be sheltered from the rapid stream, that descends from the mountains after much rain, and runs with great velocity into the sea.

The sea breeze sets in about 11 A. M., and abates about 4 or 5 hours after noon, when the land wind begins to blow from the mountains, frequently in strong gusts. A ship may bring up in from 30 to 56 fathoms, under the eastern point of the entrance, until the sea breeze sets in; she can then proceed into either of the coves, or anchor in mid-Channel, close to the fishing stakes in the entrance of the river.

The village is about 2 miles up the river, and the natives, who are chiefly Mahometans, carry on a considerable trade in wax and gold dust. The Dutch usually had two or three small forts on the banks of the river, for the protection of the place, which abounds with all kinds of refreshment; horses, buffalos, bullocks, sheep, goats, and poultry, may be procured.

and adjacent coast.

From Goonong Tella River, to Current Island, situated close to the N. E. extremity of Elphinston's Bay, the coast is high and bold, without danger. From the West side of this island, some rocks stretch out 2 miles; and about 3 miles to the N.W. of it, there are soundings of 50 to 25 fathoms muddy bottom, about a mile off shore, where a ship might anchor, if necessary, which place has been named Elphinston's Bay. Outside of Current Island, the current generally runs to the northward, but to the westward of it, in Goonong Tella Bay, there is seldom much current.

From Current Island, to Kema Road, the coast of Celebes may be approached to 3 miles, and in many places much nearer. The N. E. part of Celebes, and the anchoring places adjacent, have been mentioned in a preceding section, where directions are given for sailing from the Strait of Macassar into the Pacific Ocean.

* Returning from China by the Eastern Passage, it seems advisable in a ship that sails indifferently, to pursue the route to the eastward of Luconia, and enter the Pitt's Passage by Dampier's Strait; for in some years, difficulty may be experienced in getting to the southward through Macassar Strait, or through the Molucca Passage; but this will now seldom happen, as coppered ships sail much better than formerly those with foul bottoms could possibly do.

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Cape Talabo Talyabo ni bout lat. 0° 48′ S., is a steep headland, forming the extremity of the peninsula that separates the bays of Tolo and Goonong Tella., and lies about 20 leagues to the N.W. of the West end of the large island Xulla Talyabo.

To sail from Molcca the westward.

Having sailed through the Molucca Passage, between Lissamatula and Oby Major, you Too will be into the fair track of variable S. E. and Easterly winds, in the Pitt's Passage, which will be favorable for running to the westward. From this situation, any route that is thought eligible for proceeding into the Indian Ocean, may bursued at discretion. If it be intended to proceed by the Straits of Sunda, Lombock, Allass, or Sapy, the track round the South end of; Bouton, and through the Straits of Salayer, will be proper; and from thence, a course must be steered for the intended strait. In crossing over for the Strait of Sapy, care must be taken to allow for a westerly current, which generally prevails in the easterly monsoon; and in case of falling to leeward, proceed through Allass Strait.

Or through the Bands Sea and Ombay Passage.

If bound to Europe, or to the western side of Hindoostan, a ship coming out of the Molucca a Passage, may adopt the route through the Ombay Passage, by borrowing toward Oby Major, that she may With greater facility pass on the East side of Bouro, betwixt it and Manipa. From hence, she ought to steer to the southward close by the wind, which generally blows at E. S. Eastward in the Banda Sea, during the S. E. monsoon; although in the Pitt's Passage, it prevails at S. Eastward; and in the Molucca Passage, frequently at S. S. Eastward.

Crossing from Manipa, through the Banda Sea, with the wind at E. S. E., a ship that sails tolerably, will generally be able to weather Ombay; and after passing between it and Wetter, she may proceed along the N. W. coast of Timor, and pass out into the ocean betwixt Semao and Sava.

This is the shortest route from the Pitt's Passage into the ocean, where the steady S. E. trade wind may be expected; it is the quickest mode of clearing the islands, and in time of war, probably less danger is to be apprehended from enemies cruizers, than in any of the straits farther to the westward.

If a ship cannot weather Ombay, she may steer along its North coast, and pass through the Strait of Alloo, or she may proceed on the same side of the other islands to the westward, then pass out by the Strait of Flores, formed betwixt the East end of the island of this name, and the adjacent islands Solor and Adenara. Should these straits be considered inconvenient, on account of their small breadth, and the rapid tides, she may continue to steer to the westward, keeping near the North coast of Flores, to avoid several dangerous shoals in the offing, then proceed through the Strait of Sapy into the Indian Ocean.

EASTERN ROUTE to CHINA, by the PITT'S PASSAGE.

1st. DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING FROM BATAVIA TO THE STRAITS OF SALAYER: ADJOINING ISLANDS, BANKS, AND DANGERS.

General descriplion of the Pitt's Passage.

PITT'S PASSAGE, was first pursued by Captain Wilson, in the ship of this name, to whom it occurred, that an eastern passage might be made to China during the season that the passage through the China Sea was considered impracticable; by making sufficient easting with the N. W. monsoon, then blowing to the southward of the equator, to enable him to reach China with the N. E. monsoon, prevailing in North latitude. He sailed from Madras, September 23d, 1758, and passed through among the Molucca Islands, into the Pacific

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Ocean, by Pitt's Strait. But the space more particularly distinguished by the name of the Pitt's Passage, is comprehended between the islands Bouton to the westward, and Battanta and Salwatty to the eastward; being bounded on the South side, by Bouro, Ceram, Mysole, and their contiguous isles; and on the North side, by Xulla Bessy, Oby Major, and the chain of small islands stretching from thence to Pulo Pope, and toward the entrance of Dampier's Strait.

The Pitt's Passage, is connected with the Pacific Ocean by three principal channels, the largest of which, is the Gillolo Passage, formed betwixt the islands Gillolo and Waygeeooe; the next, Dampier's Strait, formed betwixt the latter island and Battanta; the third, Pitt's Strait, betwixt Battanta and Salwatty; and exclusive of these, Revenge Strait, betwixt Salwatty and the coast of New Guinea, which is intricate, and not frequented.

The route through the Pitt's Passage, and into the Pacific Ocean, by the Gillolo Passage, or by Dampier's Strait, seems preferable to that through Macassar Strait, during the months of December, January, and February; for northerly winds and strong southerly currents, which greatly prevail in the latter strait during these months, are liable to render the progress through it very slow; whereas, the N. W. monsoon blowing to the southward of the equator, through the Pitt's Passage, is favorable for getting speedily into the ocean.

Ombay Passage.

OMBAY PASSAGE, may be adopted by ships coming from Europe, it being much wider, and the winds generally more steady, than in any of the straits to the westward. A ship entering the Ombay Passage, may pass on either side of Sandalwood Island, but on the South side is preferable, and steer to the eastward between Timor and Ombay. Having rounded the East end of the latter, she ought to steer to the northward close by the wind, in order to weather Bouro; but if any difficulty appear in doing so, she may pass betwixt the East end of that island and Manipa, into the Pitt's Passage; then proceed to the eastward, as if she had come through the Straits of Salayer.

To sail by Strait of Sunda, toward the Pitt's Passage.

SHIPS from HINDOOSTAN, bound to China by the Pitt's Passage, in times of peace, the Strait often adopt the route through the Strait of Sunda, instead of the passage to the southward of After entering this strait, they may steer to the northward of the Thousand Islands, and from the North Watcher, to the eastward through the Java Sea. But, when in want of water and refreshments, it may be prudent to touch for supplies at Batavia.

Bumkin's Island, and Pulo Rack it

Departing from Batavia in the N. W. monsoon, and bound to the Straits of Salayer, when clear of Edam, steer E. by N. N. for some time, in order to pass well to the northward of Bumkin's Island, or shoal; this is more necessary during thick weather, when observations for latitude are not obtained, because the current sets sometimes to E. S. Eastward. This danger will be described in one of the following sections, under the title "Straits to the eastward of Java," and it is situated about 30 leagues to the eastward of Edam, with Pulo Rackit S. S. W. of it, nearer the Java Shore. If the depth of water be increased to 30 fathoms, you will pass to the northward of Bumkin's Island, or Shoal, at a reasonable distance; there are, however, overfalls of 20 to 26 fathoms nearly close to it, therefore, do not borrow under 28 fathoms when passing in the night.

Geo. Site of Carimon Java; adjoining isles.

CARIMON JAVA, in lat. 5° 50′ S., lon. 110° 34′ E. from Batavia by chronometer, is a high island with an elevated hill in the centre, bearing from Edam, East a little northerly, distant about 73 leagues. Adjoining to it, there are several small islands and rocks, some of which abound with deer, and fresh water may be got by digging on them. One of these, a flat woody island, is distant about 2½ or 3 leagues to the W. N. W. of the principal island; their shores are mostly rocky, and some of them are connected by reefs. A ship may anchor among these islands in 20 to 24 fathoms ouze, and procure wood and water. The soundings about 6 or 7 leagues to the northward of them, are 31 to 32 fathoms.

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BABIAN, or LUBECK ISLAND, (the body) in lat. 5° 49′ S., lon. 112° 48′ E., or 5° 56′ East from Batavia by our chronometers, corresponding with the observations of other navigators, bearing nearly East from Carimon Java, distant about 44 leagues, is of considerable extent, and very high toward the centre and West end, having some contiguous islets, and dangerous rocky shoals fronting its eastern part, to the distance of 3 or 4 leagues, with 25 and 30 fathoms water about them.

To sail to the anchorage.

Although this island is dangerous to approach at the S. E. and Eastern parts, on account of the extensive shoals, there is good anchorage in 10 or 12 fathoms mud, on the S. E. side of the N. E. point of the island. To avoid the shoals, a ship approaching this anchorage, must steer from the northward for the N. E. point of the island, from which a reef projects about two cable's lengths, with 13 fathoms water close to. Having rounded it, (with a boata-head sounding), she may steer to the southward and anchor in the bay to the S. Eastward of the point, in 10 or 12 fathoms mud, with the Malay Town bearing W. by S. about 1 or 1½ mile distant, South extreme S. ½ E., North point of the bay N. N. W. ½ W. about a mile, and three islands from S. E. ¾ S. to S. E. ½ E., distant off the nearest shore ½ a mile, and a large cable's length from the mud bank in the bay. This is the situation where the Royal Georg anchored in February, 1766, and procured a supply of good water, buffalos, and poultry: some bullocks, with rice or paddy and calavances, may also be obtained; this place is, however, not frequented by English ships.

Geo. Site the Arrogant's Shoal.

ARROGANT'S SHOAL, in lat. 5° 12′ S., lon. 113° 0′ E. by mean of the chronometers of H. M. ship Arrogant, and those of the Dover Castle, corresponding to 4 miles, is a dangerous coral shoal, about 11 leagues to the N. N. Eastward of Lubeck, discovered by the Arrogant, January 23d, 1802. The boat examined it, and found it to extend N. W. and S. E. about ¼ of a mile, with depths of 5 and 6 feet where she could approach with safety, there being breakers on it at the time. The depths close to the shoal, were from 5 to 12 fathoms, and 25 fathoms at the distance of a cable's length.

This shoal is greatly in the way of ships running to the eastward in thick weather, and should be avoided by keeping within 6 or 7 leagues of Lubeck, or in lat. 5° 25′ to 5° 30′ S. Passing from abreast of Carimon Java, 32 and 33 fathoms is a fair track; and being 6 or 7 leagues to the northward of Lubeck, an E. by S. ½ S. course will carry a ship 3 or 4 leagues to the southward of Great Solombo, in soundings from 32 to 37 fathoms: the depths then decrease to 20 and 21 fathoms, about 7 leagues to the S. Eastward of this island.

Great Solombo.

Geo. Site.

GREAT SOLOMBO, or NOESA LOOMBO (i. e. CATTLE ISLAND,)* bearing from Lubeck about E. 8° N., distant 33 leagues, is an island of considerable extent and moderate height: the hill on the S. E. part being of a square shape, with a flat summit, is discernible about 8 leagues from the deck; but a long projection of low land forms the greater part of the island. I made the hill in lat. 5° 33′ S., lon. 114° 28′ E., or 7° 36′ East from Batavia by chronometers, agreeing with Captain Heywood, who made it 12° 13′ East from Malacca, by the same means.

Little Solombo.

Channel between them

LITTLE SOLOMBO, situated about 3 leagues to the northward, on the meridian of the former, and nearly of the same extent, is a low woody island, its eastern extremity bearing N. 2° E. from the hill of Great Solombo: the channel between them is 4 or 5, miles wide, and thought to be safe, through which the Friendship passed in December, 1802, proceeding from Batavia toward Amboina.

* It is said to abound with wild cattle, and that fresh water may be got at these islands; but Captain. Sheldrake, in a brig bound to Port Jackson, who anchored at Great Solombo, in order to procure water and refreshments, was cut off, and his vessel taken by the Malays, which shews the impropriety of touching at this place.

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Geo. Site of Arentes.

adjacent danger.

ARENTES ISLAND, in lat. 5° 10′ S., lon. 114° 36′ E., bears N. 20° E. from Little Arcata Solombo, about 6 leagues distance; there is a little islet adjoining to its South end, and a small bay with a sandy beach at that part. On the West side, this island ought to be approached with great caution, on account of the rocky spot thought to lie about 3 leagues off it, already mentioned in the directions given for sailing from Batavia toward the Strait of Macassar: but the South end of the island, may be passed at the distance of 3 or 4 miles, in 13 or 14 fathoms hardish bottom, the channel betwixt it and the Little Solombo being safe.

To sail from Great Solombo eastward.

Geo. Site of Kalkoon Islands.

Geo. Site of N Western Postillion Islands.

Having passed to the southward of Great Solombo, steer to the eastward in the parallel of lat. 5° 45′ S., and endeavour to keep between lat. 5° 34′ S. and 5° 50′ S., if observations are not obtained; for the current sometimes sets to the N. E., toward the entrance of Macassar Strait. This latitude ought not to be exceeded to the southward, on account of the Kalkoon Islands and the shoals adjoining, for they are low islands stretching to the northward of the large island Kangelang, as far as lat. 6° 10′ S., and situated in about lon. 115° 47′ E. After running about 50 leagues eastward of Great Solombo, when the channel to the southward of the Brill Shoal is to be pursued, edge a little more to the southward, keeping in about lat. 6° 16′ S. in passing betwixt the South end of that shoal and the northernmost of the POSTILLIONS. The N.Westernmost of the latter islands, is in lat. 6° 32′ S., lon. 118° 48′ E., or 11 miles to the westward of the Brill Shoal, by a view of it we had from the mast-head of the Anna, in passing between them.

To pass between them and the Brill Shoal.

The mid-channel track, is about 6° 16′ S., and when the weather is clear, you may borrow toward the Brill Shoal in the day time, and pass in sight of its southern extremity; but to run through betwixt it and the Postillions during the night, would be imprudent if the latitude of your ship be not correctly known.

North Channel.

THE NORTH CHANNEL, formed betwixt the Brill Shoal and the island Tanakeka, seems preferable to the former, particularly in the N.W. monsoon; for in clear weather, the S.W. part of Celebes may be seen from the North end of the shoal, and the Tonyn and Tarnakeka Islands, which bound the North side of the channel; will answer as guides to point out a ship's situation. But prior to giving directions for sailing through this channel, it is necessary to describe briefly, the neighbouring banks and dangers.

Geo. Site of Noesa Comba.

NOESA COMBA, in about lat. 5° 15′ S., lon. 117° 9′ E., is a low island situated to the southward of the islands Noesa Seras, already mentioned in the directions given for sailing from Batavia toward the Strait of Macassar. These form the S. Westernmost group of the Celebes Archipelago, having irregular soundings about them; and a shoal bank is thought to stretch from Noesa Comba to the southward, rendering a near approach to it on that side unsafe.

The Aurora, November 23d, 1816, shoaled suddenly from 35 to 10 fathoms on a coral bank, apparently about ¾ of a mile in breadth, upon which several casts of 4¾ fathoms were got, with the appearance of less water to the southward and eastward. From 5 fathoms, the depth increased gradually to 24 fathoms no ground steering S.W.: Noesa Comba was obscured in a squall, when she was on the bank in shoal water, which her observations placed in lat. 5° 26′ S., lon. 117° 0′ E. by chronometers, measured from the East point of Bouton.

Geo. Site of the Sibbald's Bank.

The Sibbald, Capt. Forbes, March 28th, 1816, had soundings from 20 to 7 fathoms coral, the least water, upon a bank, named the SIBBALD'S BANK, which appeared not to be very extensive, although she seems to have passed over its western part, and deepened off to 60 fathoms no ground steering N. N. W. When in 7 fathoms on it, she was in lat. 5° 46′ S., lon. 117° 15′ E. by chronometers from Batavia; and it probably extends from lat. 5° 43′ to lat. 5° 47′ S., forming the southern limit of the banks to the southward of Noesa Comba.

London, December 15th, 1824, in lat. 5° 46′ S., lon. 117° 4′ E., saw rocks under the bottom, hauled to the S. Eastward 7 miles, and had soundings of 6, to 5, 5½, and 7 fathoms,

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gradually deepening to 20 fathoms, which soundings, were thought to be probably on an extension of the Sibbald's Bank.

Caloeohij

CALOEOHIJ, or Rotterdam Island, is said to have good water on it, and is distant about 9 leagues nearly East from Noesa Comba, there being a safe channel betwixt them, very little known to English navigators.

Hen and Chickens.

HEN AND CHICKENS, consist of a group of low islands, some of which are detached considerable from each other, being of greater extent East and West than generally represented. They form the southern group of a chain of islands, which stretches from them a great way to the northward. By mean of several ship's observations, (their chronometers agreeing within 4 or 5 miles of each other) the southernmost islands of the Hen and Chickens, are in lat. 5° 28′ S., lon. 117° 54′ E.

Geo.Site.

Bank adjoining

A coral bank extends around these islands to a considerable distance, with very irregular depths on it in some places: it projects about 4 or 5 leagues to the southward of the islands, the depths on the southern part, being generally from 14 to 25 fathoms, but as there are only 4 and 5 fathoms about 3½ leagues to the southward of these islands, it is prudent to keep at least 4 or 5 leagues from them; particularly, as the Mangles, in December, 1805, saw the water much discoloured a-head, when in 15 fathoms about 3 leagues off them, which obliged her to haul to the southward.

Geo. site of Saflanaff.

ZALINAF, SAFLANAFF, or LAERS ISLAND, in about lat. 5° 31′ S., lon. 118° 25′ E. by chronometers, bearing about E. ½ S. 10 or 11 leagues from the southernmost islands of Hen and Chickens, is a low woody island, and the southernmost of a group situated on the North end of the Laars Bank. This island is surrounded with breakers, and ought not to be approached; it and the other islands may be seen 5 leagues.

Geo. Site of the Laars Bank.

LAERS, or LAARS, (the BOOT) is an extensive coral bank, (or range of banks) commencing at the island Saflanaff, and stretching about 5 leagues to the S. Westward; it then takes a southerly direction, and extends to lat. 5° 52′ S. or 5° 54′ S. The western verge of these banks is in about lon. 117° 58′ E., and the eastern part in lon. 118° 26′ E. or 3° 58′ E. from Great Solombo by chronometers, and nearly South from Saflanaff: but in some parts, their extent East and West, appears to be much less.

Ships generally cross over the Laars Bank, in lat. 5° 45′ to 5° 50′ S., although it is here, probably of greater breadth, and shoaler, than in about lat. 5° 40′ S.

Captain Heywood, in H. M. S. La Dedaigneuse, December 19th, 1803, had soundings of 13 to 7 fathoms, in lat. 5° 48′ S., lon. 118° 25′ E., or 3° 57′ E. from Great Solombo by chronometers, and immediately deepened off the eastern edge of the bank to no ground: the bottom had been seen several times, during the preceding run of 7 or 8 leagues to the eastward.

The True Briton, in lat. 5° 47′ S., had soundings of 16 to 11 fathoms, in a run of 4 leagues to the eastward, or from lon. 118° 5′ to 118° 17′ E., when passing in January, 1802, and she saw the Hen and Chickens, and Saflanaff.

The Ruby, in lat. 5° 47′ S., and 48 miles West of Tanakeka, or in lon. 118° 31′ E., had from 10 to 6 fathoms coral rock in 1799, in a run of 2 or 3 miles. The Revenge and Glatton, in lat. 5° 53½′ S. got into 5 fathoms; and the Althea, in 1806, had 10 and 11 fathoms in lat. 5° 53½′ S., lon. 118° 29′ E. or 1° 59′ West from Middle Island in Salayer Straits, by chronometer.

The Apollo, Capt. Tarbutt, March 16th, 1813, in lat. 5° 48′ S., lon. 118° 15′ E. got into 12 fathoms coral, Saflanaff Island seen from the mast-head bearing N. E. by N., which seemed to be a bank about 1 mile in extents: a little farther to the eastward, she got no bound, but seeing a proa or junk apparently fishing on another coral bank, two boats were

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sent to sound, and found 10 fathoms between the ship and the proa, and 6 fathoms coral around the latter. The ship had also from 15 to 6½ fathoms in crossing over this bank, which appeared to extend ½ a mile East and West, and is situated in lat. 5° 48′ S., lon. 118° 20′ E.

Where these last mentioned five ships had shoal soundings, may probably be small spots detached from the eastern edge of the Laars Bank, or it may be only the termination of its southern extremity.

The Anna, in December, 1806, after passing in sight of the Hen and Chickens Islands, from the poop bearing North, steered E. by S. and E. ½ S. 24 miles, then got a few casts of 12 to 25 fathoms, and immediately afterward no ground: the observed lat. 5° 41′ S., lon. 118° 18′ E. by chronometer, and a low woody island, supposed Saflanaff, bore N. E.

Dangers on it.

The Mangles, in December, 1805, saw one of the Hen and Chickens bearing N. by E. 2½ or 3 leagues, and had 15 fathoms water; shortly after, another island was seen bearing N.E. with the appearance of shoal water E. by N., which obliged her to haul off South, and deepened to 25 fathoms in a run of 3 leagues, then bore away East at noon. The weather being thick, and blowing strong, no observations were obtained, and these islands were mistaken for Saflanaff and the other islands on Laars Bank: but after running East 20 miles from noon, the island Saflanaff was seen bearing N. N. E., 5 or 6 miles distant, with many breakers to the East and westward of it, and shoal water bearing E. N. E. At this time they had 17 fathoms, and shoal discoloured water was also discerned outside, extending from S. W. to S. S. W., with an apparent clear passage from E. S. E. to E. by N.; through this, she was forced to push, it being impossible to weather the southern shoal, from the violence of the gale; and the least water in running through, was 16 fathoms, When through this channel, they hauled up under the lee of the outside shoal, and had no ground 50 fathoms.

This ship's passage over the Laars Bank, seems to have been in about lat. 5° 34′ or 3° 35′ S., or within 4 or 5 miles of the island Saflanaff, which is too far to the northward; for, although she found a safe channel, the shoal on the outside of it is probably dangerous, and appears to be in about lat. 5° 35′ or 5° 36′ S.

The Warwick, January 5th, 1761, with Saflanaff bearing N. E. by N., distant 2 leagues, and another island E. N. E., got into ¼ less 5 fathoms and anchored; the water appeared very shoal all round, and the boat in sounding, found the deepest water betwixt the ship and Saflanaff, being there, from 7 to 12 fathoms. While at anchor in this situation, a hard squall made her drive, and she had instantly 9 fathoms, next cast no ground 50 fathoms. This ship approached too near to these islands; the shoal bank on which she anchored, is probably not far from the place where the Mangles saw the appearance of danger. The Dutch frigate, Zephyr, got into 4½ fathoms, with the above mentioned island bearing E. N. E., seen by moon-light, and anchored immediately, but the anchor slipped off the shoal into 80 fathoms no ground. The Sibbald, April 1st, 1816, having light S. E. winds, passed over the Laars Bank far to the northward, and at midnight got into 9 fathoms coral in lat. 5° 35′ S., lon. 118° 32′ E., then, tacked to the southward and soon deepened; the island Saflanaff having been seen on the preceding evening from the mast-head bearing N. N. W.

Direction for passing over this bank.

It has generally been thought, that in proportion as the distance is increased from Saflanaff to the southward, the depths on the bank increase; which appears not to be the case. In lat. 5° 40′ S. to 5° 41′ S., the Anna in crossing, got only a few casts of soundings, least water 12 fathoms, the bank being very narrow in that part. Other ships have crossed over nearly in the same latitude, and had no less than 11 or 12 fathoms water: whereas, it appears by the extracts given above, that several ships in crossing it to the southward of lat. 5° 47′ S., have experienced shoal soundings from 7 to 5 fathoms; and in this part, Captain Heywood, found the bank to be of great extent. East and West, formed of spits or patches of coral and sand.

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Five Fathoms Bank.

FIVE FATHOMS BANK, is the southernmost shoal patch yet known, of those numerous coral patches, which appear to form the southern extremity of the LAARS BANK. thorns Bank. June 21st, 1813, the Apollo, returning from Amboina, at ½ past 7 A. M. struck soundings of 5 fathoms on this bank in lat. 5° 52′ S., lon. 118° 20′ E.; afterward in crossing over it, she had 8, 7, 6½, 5¾, then deepened gradually to 15 fathoms, and to no bottom in 18 minutes after first getting on the bank, steering West.

Best track to be pursued.

From what has been stated, it seems, that the best track to cross over the Laars Bank, is betwixt lat. 5° 40′ and 5° 46′ S., if your situation is correctly known by observation; but in thick weather, a wide birth should be given to the islands, by keeping well to the southward; for there is thought to be no danger on the southern parts of this bank, or banks. It is, however, unpleasant in a large ship, to get into 5 or 6 fathoms when there is much swell, which may possibly happen; the track between lat. 5° 40′ and 5° 46′ S. seems therefore, the best to be pursued by large ships.

Geo. Site the Tonyn Islands.

TONYN ISLANDS, like the other islands adjacent, are low and woody; the S.Westernmost is in about lat. 5° 31′ S., lon. 118° 36′ East, bearing East from Saflanaff 9 or 10 miles distant. The easternmost Tonyn Island, in about lat. 5° 31′ S., lon. 118° 46′ E. by chronometer, bears East from the S.Western one, distant 10 miles; and to the northward of the latter, another island is situated. The two westernmost islands are surrounded by a dangerous shoal, which projects several miles to the southward of the S.Westernmost island; then it stretches eastward, nearly to the easternmost island. H. M. S. Swallow, by borrowing toward these islands, got into 3 fathoms coral rocks, on the edge of this shoal.

The Sibbald, April 1st, 1816, at noon, saw the westernmost Tonyn Island from the deck, bearing N. by W. ¾ W., distant 4 or 5 leagues, the easternmost island then in sight from the fore-yard, bearing from N. E. ½ N. to N. E. ½ E., observed lat. 5° 44′ S., lon. 118° 43′ E. by chronometer, and they both appeared low, and covered with trees.

April 2d, at sun-set, the westernmost Tonyn Island was seen from the mizen-rigging bearing W. ½ N., and the easternmost island N.W. by W., distant 8 or 10 miles; from this situation, she steered N. E. by E. 18 miles with a S. Easterly wind, and shoaled suddenly at mid-night from no ground at 60, to 5 fathoms, immediately tacked to the southward, and deepened to 54, 7, 9, 16 fathoms, then no ground in 6 minutes. She made this shoal in about lat. 5° 27′ S., lon. 119° 5′ E., which is probably the shoal bank extending westward from the Three Brothers.

Geo. Site of Tanakeka; adjacent Islands.

Channel within to.

TANAKEKA, or TUNIKIK ISLAND, in lat. 5° 34′ S., lon. 119° 24′ E* by chronometers from Great Solombo, bearing nearly East from the easternmost Tonyn Island, 11½ or 12 leagues distance, has a level appearance, and may be seen 6 or 7 leagues. It is separated from the S.W. part of Celebes by a navigable channel, about 3 or 4 miles wide, with soundings from 6 fathoms toward the main, to 10 or 12 fathoms near the reef that lines the East side of Tanakeka, soft bottom in some parts, but frequently coral. In passing through, keep nearly in mid-channel, or rather nearest to Tanakeka, for the Dutch frigate, Zephyr, passing through in soundings of 8 and 9 fathoms, got suddenly into 6, then 3 fathoms, close to breakers, and immediately deepened to 11 and 13 fathoms in hauling over for Tanakeka, the North point of which bore W. S.W. when on the shoal, and the distance from the shore of Celebes appeared to be nearly 3 miles. Regular soundings project from Tanakeka in a southerly direction, it being safe to approach on that side; but from the islands called Three Brothers, which lie to the N.W., there is a rocky bank stretching out to the westward, with shoal water on its northern part.

* Captain A. Hamilton, of the Bombay, in 1820, made it in lon. 119° 25¾′ E.

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Gro. Site of the Brill Shoal.

BRILL SHOAL, is very dangerous, being steep to, and directly in the track of ships steering eastward for the Straits of Salayer. Returning from China in the Anna, we made this shoal unexpectedly, August 7th, 1793. By noon observation, when the South end of the shoal bore W. by N., I made its southern extremity in lat. 6° 5′ S., lon. 119° 0′ E; or 1° 28′ West from Middle Island in Salayer Straits, and 4° 32′ East from Great Solombo by chronometer. The northern extremity of the shoal is in about lat. 6° 0′ S., or 6° 1′ S.; by a good view of it from the mast-head, its extent appeared to be about 4 miles North and South, and rather less from East to West. Having a fresh breeze, with a considerable swell, there was a continued chain of breakers around the verge of the shoal; but within the breakers, the water was smooth, of a light green colour. Although the sea probably breaks very little upon the Brill Shoal during fine weather, it must be easily distinguished in daylight, by the discoloured water: Besides, the rocks on the N.W. part, are nearly even with the water's edge; as the Pitt's boat went to it in 1792, during a calm, and found only 2 feet water in some places. This shoal appears to be about 10 or 11 leagues East of the meridian of the eastern verge of the Laars Bank.

Sailing direction to the Straits of Salayer.

DEPARTING from GREAT SOLOMBO, when the channel to the northward of the Brill Shoal is to be followed, steer to the eastward about 50 leagues, keeping between lat. 5° 36′ and 5° 50′ S. When the meridian of the Hen and Chickens is approached, cross over the Laars Bank, in the parallel of 5° 43′ S. if observations can be obtained for the latitude, by day or by night. But if the latitude is not correctly determined, it will be prudent to keep a little farther to the southward, to avoid the dangers adjacent to the islands; and in such case, it seems prudent not to pass the Brill Shoal in the night, unless the latitude is ascertained within a few miles, as the currents are uncertain, and sometimes set strong to the southward.

During the day, when the weather is favorable, keep in lat. 5° 43′ S. as recommended above, to get a sight of the islands from the mast-head or poop; and if the Tonyn Islands are seen, they will point out the approach to the meridian of the Brill Shoal. Having passed the islands, continue an easterly course for the S.W. end of Celebes, or to get a sight of Tanakeka at 4 or 5 leagues distance in passing.

Geo. Site of the S. W. end of Celebes.

THE S.W. END OF CELEBES, called LAYK, or LAYKEN POINT in lat. 5° 37′ S., lon. 119° 33½′ E. should have a birth of 3 miles, on account of a coral bank projecting from it 1½ or 2 miles, but the water shoals near it to 15 or 12 fathoms; and there are 5 and 4 fathoms on its edge. When this coast is approached, pass along it about the distance of 2 leagues, by steering well into Bonthian Bay when the Mansfield's Shoal is approached, if you intend to pass within it; and having brought Bonthian Hill to bear N. by W. ½ W. or N. N.W., you will be clear of it, and may then haul off shore, to pass through the Straits of Salayer, between. Middle and South Islands.

South coast of Celebes.

South Coast of Celebes, is fronted by a bank of tolerably regular soundings, stretching 2 or 3 leagues out from it, in some places, which is a guide in sailing along in the night; but off the bay of Baakele, situated to the eastward of Layken Point, there is deep water. Turatte Point in lat. 5° 39′ S. lies 3 leagues eastward of Layken Point; and inland to the N. W. of Bonthian Bay, stands Bonthian Mountain, of astonishing elevation, from whence the land slopes down by various ridges, until it becomes low in some parts close to the sea.

Boele Comba Hill.

BOELE COMBA HILL, in lon. 120° 9′ E. by chronometer, is not very conspicuous when first seen in coming from the westward, but when abreast, it becomes an excellent mark, being a high conical hill, standing by itself on the low land near the sea, to the N.W. of Boele Comba. There is good anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms sandy bottom, about 2 miles off the village of Bonthian, at the North part of the bay of that name. Bode Comba, also

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affords good anchorage, which is a small Dutch settlement farther to the eastward, with the hill over it bearing N. N.W. ¼ W., and the flagstaff of Boele Comba N. N.W. 2½ or 3 miles, in 6½ or 7 fathoms sand and mud. The Sibbald anchored here, April 7th, 1816, in Anchorage. 11 fathoms sand, about 2½ miles off shore, Boele Comba Hill bearing N.W. ½ N., Point Lassao or eastern extreme of Celebes (called Berak by the natives) E. ½ S., West extreme of Celebes W. ½ S., the flagstaff of Boele Comba Fort N.W. by W.; here she lay two days, and filled up her water, then proceeded along the North coast of Flores toward Amboina. H. M. ships, Powerful, Terpsichore, and Drake, touched here, December 17th, 1806, but could not procure good water or refreshments at this time. They however, discovered Den neloang River, on the East side of Boete Comba Bay, navigable by long boats a considerable way up, except at last ¼ ebb. Here, they watered speedily, by sending the boats about ¼ mile up the river, and filling along side: a few buffalos and some fruit, were also procured from the natives, who inhabit several villages near the banks of the river, one side of which is under the controul of the Dutch, and the other under the king of Boni.

Anchorage.

Denneloang watering river,

anchorage off it.

The Drake at anchor, about a mile off the mouth of this river, in 20 fathoms very stiff mud, and good holding ground, made the lat. 5° 34′ S. by observation, Bode Comba Village bearing West, the North point of the river's mouth N. 9½° E., S. E. point of Celebes E. 1° S., North Island S. 73° E., South Island S. 65° E., and the North point of Salayer S. 58½° E.

A coral reef projects near 2 miles from the western point of the watering bay, and is steep to; ships ought, therefore, not to anchor under 20 fathoms, for the Powerful let go her anchor in 17 fathoms, and swung into 4 fathoms. There are brisk land, and light sea breezes, in this bay, during the N.W. monsoon, whilst the wind in the offing is blowing strong through the Straits of Salayer.

Mansfield's Shoal.

MANSFIELD'S SHOAL, is of considerable extent, on which the ship of this name had 3¾ fathoms coral rock, December 16th, 1780, with a peaked hill* bearing about N. ½ W., then distant 4 or 5 leagues from Celebes shore; and it is thought to bear about West from South Island in Salayer Strait, distant 5 or 6 leagues.

This ship got suddenly off the shoal into deep water, and the boat was sent to examine it. With the Peaked Hill bearing from N. ½ W. to N. by W., South Island East, Salayer E. by S. to S. E. by S., and the extremes of Celebes from N. E. by E. to N.W. by W., distant 4 or 5 leagues, she had mostly regular soundings from 5 to 10 fathoms on the shoal. But it being extensive, she must have missed the shoalest parts, for where the ship got upon it there was less water; and on some parts of it, the depths are said to be from 3 to 3½ fathoms.

The Sibbald, April 5th, 1816, at 10 A. M., steering East, got suddenly from having no soundings, into 10 fathoms coral, and immediately anchored, with the northern extreme of Salayer appearing like an island bearing East, the eentre of South Island E. ¾ N., Berak Point or South extreme of Celebes N. E. by E., Boele Combs Hill, or Peaked Hill on Celebes N. by. W., and Middle Island just seen from the mast-head bearing about E. by N. ¾ N. The boat found 6¼ fathoms near the ship, but not less; weighed, and kept her a-head sounding, and steering E. by N. ½ N., deepened in a run of 2 miles to 60 fathoms no ground.

Geo. Site.

These soundings appear to have been on the Mansfield's Shoal, although not on its shoalest part, and the meridian altitude of a star at 4 A. M. made it in lat. 5° 45′ S. The Dutch frigate Maria Reygersbergen, places this shoal in lon. 120° 13½′ E. by chronometers.

There are soundings contiguous to it, which soon deepen off to the southward to no ground; but they extend from the shoal to the Celebes shore.

* Thought to be Bode Comba Hill, which is called sometimes Bonthian Hill, and lies to the N. N.Westwand of Boele Comba; but that called Bode Comba Mountain by the Dutch, lies in lat. 5° 23′ S., and is 5 miles to the eastward of the flagstaff of Boele Combs.

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Other coral banks.

Exclusive of the Mansfield's Shoal, there is said to be two coral banks farther to the eastward, on one of which, January 22d, 1800, the ship Thomas had 7½ fathoms, and saw the bottom very plain, with Peaked Hill N.W. ½ N., and Middle Island E. by S. ½ S., distant about 2 leagues off the Celebes shore: she hauled from it to the southward, and deepened quickly to 40 fathoms no ground. The ship Amboina, February 9th, 1800, tacked close to ripplings or breakers on the other, with Middle Island bearing East, which is a circular shoal, about ½ a mile in extent, with a small rock even with the water, and this was of a light green colour upon the shoal. When it bore South about ½ a mile distant, Boele Comba flagstaff bore N.W. 9 or 10 miles, West extreme of Celebes W. by N., and its eastern extreme E. ¾ N., North Island E. ¼ N., and the North point of Salayer S. E. ¾ E.

Amboina Shoal.

AMBOINA SHOAL, seen by Captain T. Harington, of the Scaleby Castle, January 17th, 1812, about 11 A. M., when shoal water was seen on the larboard bow, steering E. by S., put the helm down with the hope of clearing it to the southward, but immediately afterward seeing coral rocks under water, close to the ship, on the weather quarter, up helm again, and providentially cleared the shoal, although not without touching on it, at the same time there appeared to be 4¼ fathoms along side, by the lead.

No soundings were got till close upon the shoal, and the water over it was of a bright green colour, with a strong rippling, but not breaking sufficiently to attract notice at any distance. The shoal appeared to be about ½ a mile across in an East and West direction, and immediately after clearing it, Peaked Hill (indistintly seen) bore N.W.; Point Lassoa E. by N., body of North Island E. 4° N., Middle Island E. ¾ S., body of South Island E. 21° S., North point of Salayer E. 24° S., and the S.W. point of Hog Island S. ¾ E.

Lady Melville, January 2d, 1821, at 9 A. M. saw a shoal from the mast-head bearing about S. E. by S., with very green water all over it, which appeared to be about 2 miles in extent, and distant 1 or 1¼ mile from the ship, Bonthian Hill bearing N.W. ¼ N., North Island E. ¼ N., South Island just visible from the mast-head, our distance off the Celebes shore 10 or 12 miles, in 14 fathoms. This may probably be the Amboina Shoal, and we were from 9 to 11½ A. M. working out between it and the Mansfield's Shoal, blowing hard with thick weather, under double reefs, in soundings from 12 to 15 fathoms.

This passage inside of the Mansfield's Shoal, seems very unsafe in the westerly monsoon, as we experienced great difficulty in getting to the southward out of Bonthian Bay, for the line of bearing of the above-mentioned shoal, leaves but a narrow space between it and the Mansfield's Shoal.

Other banks.

Exclusive of the Mansfield's and Amboina Shoals, Which are now known to be dangerous, other banks lie to the eastward of the former, at a greater distance from the coast of Celebes than hitherto supposed, as will appear by the following extract from the Sibbald's journal; but they are probably clear of danger.

April 6th, 1816, having anchored on the Mansfield's Shoal at 10 A. M. yesterday, after weighing at 11 A. M. steered E. by N. ½ N. 3 miles with a light air, and got no bottom till ½ an hour past noon with 100 fathoms line, then had 22 fathoms gravel, with several casts afterward from 25 to 46 fathoms; when we had no ground 100 fathoms outside of the western edge of this bank, South Island bore E. ½ N., South Point of Celebes or Berak Point N. E. by E., Boele Comba N. N.W., Middle Island seen from the mizen shrouds E. ¾ N. From hence, steered about East 3 miles, and had no soundings till 5 P. M., then got ground 26 fathoms, decreasing to 19 fathoms sand and gravel, and anchored, Berak Point N. E. ½ E., North Island N. E. by E., Boele Comba Hill N. N.W. ¼ W., Middle Island just in sight E. by N. ½ N., North Point of Salayer E. by S., South Island East, South extreme of Celebes nearly on with the North end of North Island bearing N. E. ¾ E.

Whale Shoal.

WHALE, called SONTELAND'S ROTZEN, by the Dutch, is a shoal about ¼ mile

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in extent, having only 2½ fathoms sharp rocks on it in some places, with soundings contiguous, and between it and Hog Island, from the N.W. part of which, it is distant about 4 miles. From its shoalest part, the North end of Salayer bears N. N. E., and the South end of the same S. by E., on with Hog Island; which is a low island of considerable length, stretching parallel to the West side of Salayer, at a small distance.

Hog Island;

Salayer Straits.

SALAYER STRAITS, called BOEGERONES, by the Dutch, formed betwixt the North end of the island of this name, and the point of Celebes opposite, are separated into several channels by three islands, called generally, North, Middle, and South. The South point of Celebes, which bounds the North side of these Straits, is of round form, moderately elevated, covered with trees; and the coast from thence westward, embracing the concavities of Boele Comba and Bonthian, is low near the sea, with high mountains inland to the N.Westward. North Island is low and level, and when far off shore, coming from the westward, it is seen on with the South Point of Celebes; but when viewed from the eastward, a wide space appears between them. The channel betwixt the Point of Celebes and North Island, is not frequented by ships, although said to have 16 and 24 fathoms soft ground in it.*

Geo. Site of Middle Island.

MIDDLE ISLAND, the smallest of the three, but nearly of the same height as the others, may be discerned about the distance of 5 leagues from the deck, and is bold to approach, being steep to. I made it in lat. 5° 40′ S. by noon observation, when bearing West, and in lon. 120° 28′ E. by chronometers, or 13° 56′ East of Batavia, corresponding exactly with several other navigators.† There is a safe channel on either side of Middle Island; that between it and North Island, is about 5 miles wide, and since the ship Amboina found a coral bank in it, the South channel has been preferred. This ship, passing between Middle and North Islands, February 10th, 1800, got suddenly into 14, then into 8½ fathoms rocks, with the body of Middle Island bearing South, distant about 2¼ miles, and in three casts steering S. E., she deepened to 55 fathoms. There is probably not less than 7½ or 8 fathoms water on this bank, and it seemed to be of small extent.

The channel between Middle and South Islands, is about 4 or 5 miles wide, without soundings, clear of danger, and is generally adopted by ships passing through these straits.

South Island is larger than Middle Island, and rather higher: a coral flat projects from it to the S.W. and Southward, and another fronting it, stretches out from the North end of Salayer, but to appearance, there is a narrow gut between them, which probably would afford a passage to a ship in a case of great necessity, by the help of a good look out kept for the shoals, from the mast-head.

Salayer Island.

SALAYER ISLAND (called BOEGEROENS by the Dutch), extending nearly North and South about 10 leagues, is of moderate height, well cultivated, and abounding with inhabitants. The North point, fronting South Island, is in lat. 5° 49′ S., and on the same meridian; the land over the point being rather higher than the islands adjacent, and joined to

* A Dutch officer at Batavia, stated to me, that there were some rocks in it, that it was never used by them: and also, that a Dutch ship was lost, in endeavouring to push through betwixt the North point of Salayer and South Island.

† This longitude of Middle Island, is probably a near approximation to truth; for it is remarkable, that Captain Heywood, made it in lon. 120° 28′ E. by chronometer from Malacca in 1803, and Captain Richardson, in the same year, made it 16° 2½′ East of Pedro Branco by chronometers, which places it in lon. 120° 27½′ E. The Mangles, in 1805, made it 16° 2½′ East of Pedro Branco by chronometer, or in lon.120° 28′ E., and Capt. Clarke, of the True Briton, in 1797, made it in lon. 120° 28′ E. by chronometers. In 1802, the same ship, made it 3 miles more to the westward by chronometers. The Asia, in 1805, made it in 120° 30′ E. by chronometers; and the Anna made it in the same lon. in 1806. Capt. Hamilton, of the Bombay, in 1820, made it in lion. 120° 27′ E.

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the body of Salayer by a low neck of land, makes the North end of Salayer also appear isolated, when first seen either from East, or westward. Several proas are generally observed about the villages at the North part of Salayer; and on the N.W. side, about 3 or 4 miles to the S. S.Westward of the South Point of South Island, there is a considerable village, with shoals and rocks stretching out from it. The Althea anchored in 28 fathoms, close to the shoals bout 2 miles off shore, in August, 1806, with a view to procure refreshments at this village, but she could only get a few cocoa-nuts, the inhabitants being afraid of the Dutch getting intelligence of an English ship having touched there. The bottom was so rocky, that they could not purchase the anchor, and were obliged to cut from it. When at anchor, Middle Island bore N. 16° E., the East end of South Island and North point of Salayer nearly touching N. 43° E., West extreme of Salayer S. 5° W., Bonthian Hill N. 42° W.; but a ship should not anchor here.

Tonin Islands.

Passage on the East side of Salayer.

TONUN, or BAGLAWANG ISLANDS, are of moderate height, and stretch out a great way to the southward of the South end of Salayer; and many islands and shoals, stretch to the S. E. and Eastward of it, at a considerable distance, called Tiger Islands and Shoals; but this part is little known, and generally avoided by navigators. There seems, however, to be a safe passage on the East side of Salayer, for the Anna fell in with an American ship off Xulla Besey, December 31st, 1806, which had been four days from Allass Strait, and two nights of that time laying too, with strong westerly gales. Being unable to fetch the straits of Salayer, she bore away round the South end of that island, and passed along the East side of it, to the northward.

To sail through Salayer Straits.

To sail through the straits of Salayer, if you intend to pass outside of the Mansfield's Shoal, which is the best track with a S.Westerly wind, keep out of soundings, about 5½ or 6 leagues from the coast of Celebes, when Bonthian Hill bears between N. ½ E. and N. by W.; and when the North end of Salayer is discerned, by keeping its extreme point East, but nothing to the southward of this bearing, you will pass clear on the South side of the shoal. When Bonthian Hill is visible, and brought to bear N. by W. ½ W. or N. by W., steer direct for Middle Island, and pass betwixt it and South Island, borrowing on either side, as the wind, or circumstances require.

During the night, or in light winds, the route along the coast of Celebes, inside of the Mansfield's Shoal seems preferable: here, the depths being moderate for anchoring if necessary, with soundings extending out about 2 or 3 leagues from the shore, answers as a guide in the night, or in thick weather; whilst at such times, no marks are visible from the outer Channel. But in the day, when strong winds sometimes blow between West and S.W., the passage outside of the Mansfield's Shoal ought to be adopted: for with S.W: winds, it is sometimes difficult to pass out of Bonthian Bay between the shoals, particularly in thick blowing weather.

To proceed by the Inner Passage, after having approached the coast of Celebes, you ought to preserve the distance of 4 to 6 miles from it, until Bonthian Hill is brought to bear N. by W. ½ W.; being then past the Mansfield's Shoal, edge out 4 or 5 leagues from the shore, before the hill is brought so far westerly as N.W. by N., or by the time the islands in Salayer Straits are all bold in sight from the deck. Or as soon as Middle Island is seen boldly from the quarter deck, you should edge off, until it bear E. by N., to avoid the Amboina Shoal, then steer to pass through, about mid-channel betwixt Middle and South Islands.

Boni Bay

BONI, or BUGGES BAY, begins on the East side of the South point of Celebes, which forms the straits of Salayer, and stretches about 3° to the northward, into the middle of that island. The navigation of this bay is dangerous and intricate, from the numerous shoals it contains; and being little known, a ship intending to proceed into it in order to trade, must be guided by a good look out, with boats sounding a-head; there being moderate depths for

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anchorage among many of the shoals. The river and principal tows of Boni, is situated near the bottom of the bay en the West side, in about lat. 3° S., off which; there is good, anchorage in 8 or 10 fathoms water.*

2d. INSTRUCTIONS FOR SAILING THROUGH THE PITT'S PASSAGE: CONTIGUOUS ISLANDS, AND COASTS.

Geo. Site of Cambynn.

CAMBYNA, is a large island inhabited and cultivated, rising steep and rugged from its western extremity, towards a high peak in the centre, where it breaks into hills, two of which forms its eastern end, and it is situated to the westward of the South entrance of Bouton Strait. The peak is in about lat. 5° 21′ S., lon. 121° 57′ E.,† or 1° 29′ East from Middle Island in Salayer Straits by chronometers; and the South end of the island, is in lat. 5° 30′ S. Off the South or S. E. end, there are one or two small isles; and about 2 or 3 miles from its S.W. end, lie three more isles, very low, with breakers projecting 2 or 3 miles from them; these ought not to be approached, particularly in the night.

Geo. Site of South Island.

SOUTH ISLAND, in lat. 5° 40′ S., lon. 122° 30′ E., bearing nearly West from the South end of Bouton, distant about 12 miles, is 5 or 6 miles in extent, of moderate height, formed of sections, or strata of rock; and being on with the South part of Bouton in timing from the westward, it is not discerned until nearly approached. There are some small isles adjoining; two of them lie to the northward of South Island, fronting the South entrance of Bouton Strait, and are generally called Middle and North Islands.

Geo. Site of Hegadis.

HEGADIS, in about lat. 6° 13′ S., lon. 122° 40′ E., bearing nearly South from the South point of Bouton, is an island of middling height, situated on the South side of the channel; and Greenwood Island lies to the eastward, nearer the southern Token Besseys.

Geo. Site of South point, with sailing direction.

BOUTON SOUTH POINT, is in lat. 5° 42′ S., lon. 122° 44′ E., or 2° 16′ East from Middle Island in Salayer Straits by chronometer. Captain Heywood, in 1803, and Captain Clarke, of the True Briton, in 1796, made it exactly in the same longitude by chronometers. This point, bears nearly East from Middle Island in Salayer Straits, distant 45 leagues; and a course steered E. S., will lead a ship in the fair track to the southward of Cambyna and South Island, at a moderate distance from both, if there is no oblique current. There are no soundings in this track, all the islands being steep to.

Bouton Strait,

BOUTON STRAIT, formed betwixt the West coast of that island, and the opposite Island Pangasani, is now seldom used; the passage round the East side of Bouton being safer, and generally more expeditious. The passage through the strait, was formerly much frequented by Europe ships; although it is only ¾ or 1 mile wide in the narrowest part, the Cornwallis and some other ships which have passed through it not long ago, found no less than 10 or 12 fathoms water.

with sailing direction.

The South entrance, is formed betwixt North Island and the South end of Pangasani; here, no soundings are obtained, and a reef extends a considerable way from North Island. The coast of Bouton is cultivated, and well inhabited; supplies of poultry, fruits, and other

* This place has been at times, visited by one or two ships from Bengal, with opium and piece-goods, in expectation of receiving gold dust, &c. in return for those articles; but these ships were generally disappointed, in their prospects of a lucrative trade.

† Capt. Hamilton, in 1820, made it in.lon. 121° 51′ E.: the centre of South Island, off Bouton, he made in lon. 122° 30′ E., and Hegadis in lou. 122° 30′ E.

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refreshments, may be procured at the town of Bouton, situated in lat. 5° 27′ S., lon. 122° 40′ E., a little inside of the South entrance of the strait, upon the shore of Bouton. The Lord North, in August, 1782, moored in 9 fathoms sand, with the stream anchor to the northward in 17 fathoms, and had the flagstaff bearing S. 17° W., the watering place E. N. E. 3 miles, and the wooding place on Pangasini N. N.W., off shore about ½ a mile. Some Dutchmen generally reside here, but it is prudent to be prepared against any treachery, for the inhabitants of these islands ought not to be trusted.

Geo. Site of the town of Bouton.

The tides are moderate, which will assist a ship in drifting through the strait in light winds, with boats a-head, to keep her in the fair track, which is generally about mid-strait, or rather nearest to the Bouton shore, in some places. Although in a few parts, the water is very deep, convenient anchorage may often be got, in moderate depths of ouze or mud; and in some places, the bottom is sand and coral. A shoal projects a little way from the N.W. end of Bouton, which must have a birth in passing; and when clear of it, the channel leading out of the North entrance of the strait, takes an easterly direction betwixt the North end of Bouton and the Island Weywongy. Approaching this entrance from the northward, it is not perceived until near; and a remarkable rock, hollow below, with bushes on its summit, lies at the entrance, on the Bouton side, being connected with that shore at low water. The fishing stakes contiguous to the shore on either side of the strait, ought to be avoided, as they are placed in shoal water. The shores at the North part, rise on both sides, perpendicularly from the sea.

There is another channel to the westward of Pangasani, betwixt it and the coast of Celebes; but having a number of small isles in it, with several shoals, it is thereby rendered intricate, and never attempted by large vessels.

lustrations for the passage outside of Bouton;

THE PASSAGE outside of BOUTON, is now in general use; and to proceed by it, you should approach the S. E. point of Bouton within a few miles, if the wind be westerly, and keep the coast aboard to the East point, to prevent being set over toward the southern Token Besseys Islands, by southerly currents and light airs, which frequently prevail in the offing. Captain Seton, in the Helen, was delayed by faint airs, and southerly currents, on the East side of Bouton, from February 23d to March 6th, 1795. Although he sounded often in different parts, within 1 and 2 miles of the shore, no ground was got with 100 and 120 fathoms of line. Other navigators have found the eastern coast of Bouton, equally steep; yet it has been reported, that there is a shoal off the eastern shore of Bouton, in about lat. 5° 30′ S., but it probably has no existence.

The Island of Bouton is generally high, or of middling height, hilly at the South part with numerous huts interspersed from the rocks near the sea, quite up to the summits of the hills.

Geo. site of the East point of Buuton.

BOUTON EAST POINT, in lat. 5° 15′ S., lon. 123° 15′ E., or 2° 47′ East from Middle Island in Salayer Straits, by chronometer, is a long, low, level point, projecting into the sea, having behind it up the country, a piece of remarkable table land. The coast between it and the South end of Bouton, forms a considerable concavity or bight, and a reef projects from the S.W. point of this bight, with foul ground stretching farther to the S.W. along the shore. To the northward of the East point, an extensive and deep bay, about 8 or 9 leagues wide, called Dwaal or Deval Bay, by the Dutch, is formed betwixt it and the N. E. part of the island. The North point of this bay, bears nearly N. by W. from Bouton East point, and a direct course may be steered from point to point, without hauling far into the bay.

Calansoesoe Harbour.

CALANSOESOE HARBOUR, or SON BAY, is situated at the northern extremity of the great bay to the westward of the North point, and the shoals that project from it. This is a kind of road or harbour, with soundings of 30 to 55 fathoms at the entrance, and

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to the westward near the shore. The Dutch ship Hope, bound to the Spice Islands, being late in the season, of 1791, took shelter in this place, where she lay during the S. E. monsoon, and constructed a plan of it. From this plan, it appears, that care is required in entering between the shoals on the East side, and those fronting the isles that bound the western side of the road, which seems to be sheltered from the sea, by shoals projecting from the point on the East side. Rice, poultry, and other articles of refreshment, may be procured at the village on the N. E. side of the bay.

Geo. Site.

This bay was visited by Captain Tarbutt, in the Company's ship Apollo, March 28th, 1813, where she anchored in 27 fathoms, with the South point of the bay bearing S. ½ E., North point of the Inner Bay S. E., South point of ditto S. W. by S., and made the lat. 4° 55′ S., lon. 123° 11′ E. by chronometers. A guide was procured from the Rajah, who carried the launch and cutter to a fresh water river, as the well near the village was emptied by filling only three casks.

This bay appeared unsafe, having overfills from 80 to 30, 15, and 5 fathoms; and not more than 2 or 1 ½ fathoms, upon some banks of coral.

Geo. Site of the N. E. end of Bouton.

The land contiguous to the sea, is level from the eastern point of this bay, to a considerable distance northward, and may be coasted within a moderate distance to the N. E. end of Bouton, situated in lat. 4° 23′ S., lon. 123° 4′ E. A little inland from the N. E. point of Bouton, there is a small peaked hilt like a sugar loaf.

Weywongy, and Geo. Site of Waxway.

WEYWONGY, bounding the North side of the North entrance of Bouton Strait, is a high island of considerable size, the body of it situated in about lat. 4° 3′ S. WAXWAY, fronting the coast of Celebes farther to the northward, is also a considerable island, high in the centre, with a declivity toward the sea. The centre of this island is in lat. 3° 34′ S., lon. 123° 14′ E. Close to the Celebes coast, from the entrance of Bouton Strait to a great way northward, there are soundings in many places, where a ship might anchor in case of necessity, but several shoals are interspersed along this part of the coast.

Token Besseys.

TOKEN BESSEYS, or TOUCAMBASO, consisting of a large group of moderately elevated islands, extend nearly N. N.W. and S. S. E., and their western sides form the eastern boundary of the channel, on the outside of Bouton. The N.Westernmost of these islands, called Wangiwangi, may be seen about 7 or 8 leagues from the deck, and appears to be the largest of them. I made the body of it in lat. 5° 15½′ S., lon. 123° 33′ E. by chronometers, corresponding with several other English navigators;* and the nearest part of it, bears directly East from the East point of Bouton about 6 or 6½ leagues distant, this being the breadth of the channel between them. These islands have been considered dangerous to approach all round, which is not the case, for the northernmost island may be approached within 2 or 3 miles on the North and West sides, there being no soundings at this distance, nor any appearance of danger above 1½ mile from the shore. It is inhabited, abounds with cocoa-nuts, and the rocks or shoal water, projects only about a mile off shore: the westernmost island, appears also safe to approach on the West side; but there is a large shoal, dry in some places, near the S.Western island. The Orpheus frigate, grounded on the East side of the N. E. island, in May, 1796, not far off shore; but it is only in a S. E., S.W., or southerly direction from these islands, that shoals are known to exist, for they are not so dangerous, as generally supposed. Most of them are inhabited, but they are destitute of anchorage, the islands and reefs being steep to.

Between some of the Token Besseys Islands, there are channels, through which ships have been known to pass with safety in day-light; but it seems not prudent to run for any of them,

* The Dutch frigate, Maria Reygersbergen, in 1805, made it in lat. 5° 17′ S., lon. 123° 33′ E. by chronometers; and Capt. A, Hamilton, of the Bombay, in 1820, made it in lon. 123° 33′ 12″ E. by chronometers.

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except in a case of necessity. The Supply brig, Lieut. Ball, from Port Jackson, bound to Batavia, in June, 1790, passed about 2 leagues to the northward of St. Matthew's Islands, and soon after saw the Token Besseys to the S.W.: when near the latter, she steered W. S.W: betwixt the northern islands and others, and passed a sand bank at noon, having some bushes on its North end, and a spit stretching 3 or 4 miles to the southward, with high breakers on it. The islands were cultivated, and a proa came off loaded with cocoa-nuts at 4 P. M.; soon after, a shoal was seen extending from W. N.W. as far as the eye could reach, in a S. Easterly direction, distant about 6 miles; she therefore hauled to the wind, and lay under the nearest island, (called Combedo by the natives) during the night. At day-light she made sail, steered W. N.W., and ran along the eastern side of the shoal, keeping about 4 miles off. It was found to be very extensive, bounded on the eastern side by rugged rocks, and there are no breakers on it when the sea is smooth. This shoal seems to front the S.W. part of the Token Besseys Islands, and the North end of it was rounded at 4 P. M. about 2 miles distance; from thence, the Supply steered for the South end of Bouton, which she passed early on the following morning.*

Geo. Site of Southernmost.

Exclusive of the large group of Token Besseys, mentioned above, other detached islands which go by the same general name, extend to about lat. 6° 18′ S., with safe channels betwixt several of them; but on account of some shoals adjacent, they are seldom approached close by ships. The southernmost of these islands, called Pinnunko by the natives, and in the Dutch charts Pirocka, is of considerable size, and moderately elevated, having a large bay on the S.W. side; but its shores are steep, without anchorage. The South end of this island is situated in about lat. 6° 14′ S., lon. 124° 1′ E., by observations taken in the Boddam, and Taunton Castle, when passing to the southward. About 8 or 9 leagues to the eastward of it, they rounded another island, supposed Velthoens, making it in lat. 6° 10′ S., lon. 124° 25′ E.; but Velthoens Island seems to be situated more easterly, as will be seen by the description of that island.

Henry Addington, December 25th, 1796, at 2 P. M. saw a low flat island about 1½ mile in length, covered with trees, bearing N. by E. about 10 miles; and from the mast-head, another of the same appearance bearing W. N.W. Kept away N. E. to go to leeward, and hauled up as we passed the easternmost island, which at 4 P. M. bore W. N.W. 7 or 8 miles, when we made it in lat. 6° 9′ S., lon. 124° 19′ E., and the other in lat. 6° 18′ S., lon. 124° 12′ E. These seem to be the S. Easternmost of the islands, which lie to the southward and eastward of the Token Besseys, which require great caution in passing, as they are very low, and could not be seen in the night or in thick weather, until close upon them.

Geo. Site of Velthoen's Island.

VELTHOEN'S ISLAND, the S. Easternmost of the Token Bessey's Chain, is in lat. 5° 58′ S., lon. 124° 48′ E., or 3° 27′ West of Amboina, by Captain Heywood's chronometers; who passed near the East side of it, February 26th, 1803, in H. M. S. Dedaigneuse. He describes it to be low, covered with trees, about 5 miles in extent, without any appearance of danger on that side. Captain Gardner, in the Castlereagh, bound from Bombay to China, after steering along the North coast of Flores, saw Veltheon's Island at day break, January 1st, 1809. It appeared to extend from about lat. 6° 0′ to 6° 8′ S., and he made the eastern part in lon. 124° 42′ E.† When it bore from W. by N. to W. by S. ½ S., 8 or 9 miles distant, the side fronting the sea had a white chalky aspect, which seen in contrast with the

* Captain Bristow, commanding a southern whaler, passed also to the westward among the Token Bessey's Islands, having fallen to leeward when blowing strong. Captain William Greig, in the Minto, passed from the southward through the group of Token Besseys, leaving several of its low islands on both sides.

† The Addington, passed on the East side of Velthoen's Island, December 24th, 1796, and made the East end of it in lat. 6° 9′ S., lon. 124° 40′ E., having come through the Ombay Passage, betwixt the East end of that island and Wetter, in her route toward the Pitt's Passage. Velthoen's Island, is called sometimes Cocoa, or Koko Island.

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bushes or trees that cover this low island, might have been mistaken for breakers at a greater distance: at this time, distant land was seen to the westward, probably the island Pirocka. On the North and East sides, Velthoen's Island appeared bold to approach, and free from danger; but a reef projects a great way from it to the S.Westward. After rounding this island, the Castlereagh, weathered the West end of Bouro so far as scarcely to see it.

Captain Williams, in the Thames, January 5th, 1797, made Velthoen's Island in lat. 6° 8′ S., lon. 124° 48′ E. by chronometer; and returning from China in the same year, August 20th, he made it in lat. 6° 8′ S., lon. 124° 30′ E. by chronometer. The true longitude of this island, therefore, seems to be between 124° 42′ and 124° 48′ E. Variation near this island 1° 11′ East in 1823.

Geo. Site of St. Matthew's Islands.

ST. MATTHEW'S ISLANDS, in lat. 5° 18′ S. (the body) lon. 124° 16′ E., are two in number, rather higher than Velthoen's Island, and they extend in a N.W. and S. E. direction about 4 or 5 leagues. The southernmost is largest, separated from the other by a space about 4 miles, a reef of breakers uniting them, and stretching out about a league to seaward. They are about 15 or 16 leagues to the eastward of the northern Token Besseys, betwixt which and St. Matthew's Islands, and also betwixt the latter and Velthoen's, the passage is thought to be safe, with the assistance of a good look out in the day time.

The Apollo, April 2d, 1813, during a light breeze, and not having steerage way, was drifted by the current toward the northern St. Matthew's Island, and carried within a ¼ mile of the reef that projects from its N.W. point, at the rate of 4 miles an hour; when this point bore W. N.W. the current set to the S. E., and after passing through a strong eddy and a rippling, it changed and set again to the eastward. At noon, when St. Matthew's Islands S. E. point bore S. by W., and the N.W: point W. ½ S., observed lat. 5° 17′ S., lon. 124° 16′ E. by, chronometer. Observations taken in the Dutch frigate, Maria Reygersbergen, in 1806, made the East extreme of St. Matthew's Islands in lat. 5° 20′ S., lon. 124° 18½′ E., and their western extreme in lat. 5° 18′ S., lon. 124° 12½′ E. by chronometers. Variation 0° 30′ E. in 1813.

To approach the northern Token Besseys, coming from the eastward.

Ships bound to the westward, in the S. E. monsoon, should steer for the northernmost island of Token Besseys, and round it within 3 or 4 miles; for some ships by steering wide of these islands, have been unable to weather, or beat round the South end of Bouton, against the northerly currents which at times prevail, and were obliged to proceed through eastward. Bouton Strait.

To sail from Bouton toward Xulla Bessey.

Ships may occasionally pass round the South and East coast of Bouro.

WHEN BOUND to the eastward through the Pitt's Passage in the N.W. monsoon, after reaching the N. E. end of Bouton, steer northward to approach the island Weywongy, if N.W. winds blow strong, then stretch off for the South end of Xulla Bcssey This seems necessary in ships which sail indifferently, during the month of December, and in the early part of January, because N. N.W. or N.W. winds, and southerly currents, prevail at times. The wind and currents, in the Pitt's Passage, are, however, frequently variable, by which a ship may proceed almost in any direction; but in passing through, it is prudent to preserve the windward side of the channel, if northerly winds predominate. Do not lose time working round the N.W. end of Bouro, if you happen to fall to leeward with northerly winds; but in such case, pass along the South coast of Bouro, and proceed round the East end of that island, into the Pitt's Passage. During the whole of the N.W. monsoon, ships from may, Amboina are enabled to proceed to the northward, by keeping close in with the East end of Bouro, where they get variable breezes and land squalls. Here, they seldom experience much current, and sometimes a drain in their favor; but close over to Manipa, and betwixt it and Ceram, the current frequently sets strong to S. Eastward in this season.

* When bearing from N.W. ¾ W. to N. W. by W. ¾ W., distant 8 or 9 miles, it appeared to the Royal Charlotte, in 1797, as two islands, which are called Cocoa Islands, in her journal; and she male the. easternmost part in lat. 6° 9′ S., lon. 124° 55′ E. by lunar observations.

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Geo. Site Xulla Bessey.

Channel to the northward of it.

XULLA BESSEY, the southernmost of the Xulla Islands, is of considerable height, may be seen 12 or 13 leagues, and has a level aspect when viewed far off. Its S. E. point is in about lat. 2° 28′ S., and I made it in lon. 125° 58′ E. by chronometer, which is exactly the mean of six ships chronometers, nearly agreeing with each other. From thence, it extends nearly 11 leagues about N. by W. ½ W., the N. E. point being in lat. 1° 58′ S., the N.W. point nearly on the same parallel, and in lon. 125° 48′ E. This island is cultivated and well inhabited, abounding with wax and honey, and seems to be the only one of these islands, where a ship may procure refreshments; there is a village adjacent to the S. E. point, where the Dutch have a fort. The northern part of the island, is surrounded by a coral reef, at the distance of 2 or 3 miles, leaving a channel about 3 or 4 miles wide betwixt it and Xulla Mangola, with anchorage from 30 to 35 fathoms near the shore of the latter, which is bold to approach. This channel extends nearly East and West, with currents running through it about 3 and 4 miles an hour, which shift at times, and form a kind of tides. A ship coming from the eastward, and intending to pass through, should keep the Mangola Shore aboard, until near the small island situated to the westward of the passage, then she may haul to the southward.

Xulla Islands.

XULLA ISLANDS, are four in number, of considerable magnitude, of which, Xulla Bessey bas been described above; the other three form a chain, extending East and West about 36 leagues, and are high bold islands, thinly inhabited.* It has been observed, in the directions for the Returning Passage from China on the West sides of the Philippine Islands, at the article Molucca Passage, that there seems to be no safe passage betwixt the westernmost island Xulla Talyabo, and the middle one, Xulla Mangola.

Geo. Site of Greyhound's Straits.

GREYHOUND'S STRAITS, through which Captain Elphinstone passed in the Greyhound frigate, fronts the West end of the westernmost Xulla Island, extending from lat.1° 40′ to 1° 56′ S., lon. 124° 30′ E. The West end of Xulla Talyabo, stretches nearly North and South, having in lat. 1° 58′ S. a Haycock Island close to its S. W. point, from which Skelton's Island bears North 13 miles, and lies close to the N.W. part of Xulla Talyabo, with several isles stretching from it near the Xulla shore to the N. E. and eastward along the North coast of the latter, fronted by a large and dangerous shoal in lat. 1° 34′ S.

Middle Island. distant about 2½ or 3 leagues West from Skelton's Island, is low, swampy, covered with trees, surrounded by shoal water to the distance of ¾ of a mile, and betwixt these, is the eastern channel through Greyhound's Straits. The western channel is formed to the westward of Middle Island, bounded to the West and S.Westward by Albion's Island, distant about 3 or 3½ leagues from the former, having other islands to the West and southward of it.

The Albion, Capt. Skelton, passed through these straits to the northward, November 22d, 1812, having previously experienced a strong current running to the westward between Timor and Ombay, in October and November; she went through the Strait of Flores, then to the eastward of Token Besseys, and afterward through the eastern channel of Greyhound's Straits, and found it a safe, and clear passage, leading to the Pacific Ocean.

In returning from the N. Eastward, she passed through the western channel in November, 1813, and on the 20th, anchored in 19 fathoms coarse sand, about 1½ mile off the S.W. side of Middle Island, and cut a supply of firewood there. When Middle Island bore S. E. by E. 9 miles, and Albion's Island S. by W. 6 miles, she had 100 fathoms water; from thence steering S. E. for the former island, the depth decreased regularly till she anchored near it in 19 fathoms. From hence, she steered S. E. by S. toward the Haycock, in soundings of

* Xulla Mangola, the middle one is high in most places, particularly at the N.W. part, the land is high and rugged; Xulla Talyabo, is also a high island.

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12 to 20 fathoms, to the distance of 7 miles from Middle Island, then deepened to 50 fathoms in a run of 4 miles farther; at noon observed lat. 1° 58′ S., the Haycock bearing East 5 miles; no bottom, In November, land and sea breezes were experienced here, with regular tides running North and South about 3, or 3¼ miles per hour: all the islands, except the Haycock, are mostly low and woody.

The same ship, passed to the southward through the eastern channel, with a strong breeze and pleasant weather, February 4th, 1814; and she carried soundings of 20 to 35 fathoms between Middle Island and Skelton's Island, keeping about 2 miles from the latter, in the eastern side of the channel, deepening as she approached the Haycock.

From the Haycock, Middle Island bears N.W. by N., distant 15 miles, and Albion's Island bears from it W. N.W. ½ N. about 18 miles. The Haycock and Skelton's Islands, which forms the eastern limits of these straits, lie on the same meridian, in lon. 124° 36′ E. by the Albion's journal.

Geo. Site of Lissamatula.

LISSAMATULA, the easternmost and smallest of these islands, is separated from the East end of Xulla Mangola by a narrow gut; it is moderately high and level, having along its North and East sides, several white cliffs, which are conspicuous at a considerable distance. The S. E. point of this island is in lat. 1° 46′ S., lon. 126° 32′ E., or 1° 43′ West from Amboina by chronometer; and off this point lies an islet, which forms like a saddle in coming from the northward.

Geo. Site of the North coast of Bouro;

BOURO, is all high land, and the semicircular mountain on the N.W. part resembling a dome, may be seen 25 or 30 leagues off, in clear weather. The N.W. end of this island is in lat. 3° 6′ S., lon. 125° 57′ E., or 5° 28′ E. from Middle Island in Salayer Straits, by our chronometers in the Anna, corresponding with the mean of seven other ships' chronometers; and it bears S. 2° W. from the S. E. point of Xulla Bessey, distant about 13 leagues.

The North coast of Bouro, is bold and safe to approach, there being no soundings except very near the shore at the N.W. part, where a spit is said to project a little way: the northern extremity of the island is in lat. 3° 2′ S.; and the N. E. point, which forms the North side of the entrance of Cajeli Bay, is in lat. 3° 15′ S., lon. 127° 5′ E., by mean of six ships' chronometers.

Geo. Site of Gomona.

Oby Najor and Ceram.

GOMONA, in lat. 1° 56′ S., lon. 127° 38′ E., or 37 miles West of Amboina flagstaff by chronometer, bearing from the S. E. point of Xulla Bessey E. 18° N., distant 35 leagues, is a small island of middling height, sloping from the centre toward each end, and situated near the South coast of Oby Major; which, together, bound the North side of the Pitt's Passage in this part, as the coast of Ceram does to the southward. The coasts of Oby Major and Ceram, are mostly high, and safe to approach, but the S. E. end of the former is low land. All through the Pitt's Passage, the land being generally high, may be seen on each side, when the weather is clear.

To sail through the Pitt's Passage.

HAVING entered the PITT'S PASSAGE, betwixt the South point of Xulla Bessey and Bouro, steer E. by N. ½ N. to E. N. E., which will carry you directly through it, to the entrance of Pitt's Strait, if there is no lateral current; observing, not to borrow toward the islands on the northern side, if the wind incline from that direction, with a southerly current prevailing.

Remarks lative to the route to be pursued from thence, into the Pacific Ocean.

When the East end of Oby Major is approached, continue to steer to the eastward, if the route by Dampier's Strait is to be chosen for entering into the Pacific Ocean; but many persons prefer the Gillolo Passage, for the following reasons: because the Gillolo Passage is spacious, the islands on each side bold to approach, clear of hidden danger, with good room for working by night or by day, and the tides or currents in it are seldom strong: besides,

VOL. II. O O O

Geo. Site of the North coast of Board;

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ships which go out by this passage, run no risk of getting on the Buccleugh's Shoal, or being embarrassed with the coast of New Guinea. Other navigators prefer the passage through Dampier's Strait, because they sometimes get variable and favorable breezes, to run them speedily out clear of Point Pigot; whilst ships proceeding through the Gillolo Passage, are liable to be retarded in beating out against the northerly or N. E. winds, and a heavy swell that frequently rolls in from the ocean. Besides, although the tides in Dampier's Strait are very strong, and several dangers in it, steep to, there are anchorage in the narrow part; and if ships round Point Pigot pretty close, they will run little risk of getting embarrassed with the coast of New Guinea.

The Gillolo Passage seems preferable very early in the season, but in January and February, when the N. E. winds approach the equator, the route through Dampier's Strait, should probably be followed by ships which sail indifferently. In March, the Gillolo Passage may be adopted, for the N. E. winds then begin to abate.

The Castlereagh, left Bombay in November, 1808, went through Allass Strait, along the North coast of Flores, round the West end of Bouro, then through the Pitt's Passage and Dampier's Strait, and was only 70 days from Bombay to China. From Dampier's Strait, she carried strong westerly winds to the Pellew Islands, whilst other ships which went out by the Gillolo Passage about the same time, experienced light baffling winds, and were nearly five weeks getting what the Castlereagh did in a few days; which seems to show, that the latter passage is sometimes tedious.

3d. GILLOLO PASSAGE: ISLANDS AND HARBOURS ADJACENT, WITH SAILING DIRECTIONS.

General descriplion of the Gillolo Passage.

GILLOLO PASSAGE, formed betwixt the islands Gillolo and Waygeeooe, is separated into two branches, by the island Geby stretching across nearly in the centre. The channel between it and Gillolo, is generally known by the name of Gillolo Passage. That to the eastward of Geby, betwixt it and Waygeeooe, is sometimes called Bougainville's Passage, this circumnavigator having sailed through it in 1772; but the Duke and Dutchess Privateers, had previously gone through it in 1710. Of late years, several English ships have passed between Geby and Waygeeooe; but the small islands, with some rocky islets above water, which are interspersed over this channel, make the western, or Gillolo Passage, preferable.

The channels between the islands, leading from the Pitt's Passage into the Gillolo Passage, are all thought to be safe. That betwixt Pulo Gasses and Kekik being wide, is generally preferred in the N.W. monsoon; for the other wide channel betwixt Pulo Pisang and the Boo Islands, is then too far to leeward, but it may be adopted by ships coming from the northward during the S, E. monsoon.

Geo. Site of Lookisong.

LOOKISONG, or LANDSCAPE ISLAND, named so by the Malays from its pleasant aspect, extends nearly N. N. E. and S. S.W. about 3 leagues, fronting and near to the East end of Oby Major, and it is sometimes called Great Pulo Gasses. It is of moderate height, well wooded stretching with a remarkable even slope to the low point that forms its northern extremity: the South end is in about lat. 1° 45′ S., lon. 128° 10′ E. The channel betwixt this island and Oby Major, being very contracted, subject to calms or baffling winds from the adjoining high land, is not used by ships. There is a small island called Long Island, contiguous to the North end of Lookisong.

Geo. Site of Pulo Gasses,

PULO GASSES, distant about 7 or miles to the eastward of Lookisong, and nearly of the same height, is a flat table land about ¾ of its extent, sloping down at each end, with a

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spit of rocks stretching from the S. E. end about a cable's length. The South point is in lat. 1° 41′ S., lon. 128° 20′ E., or 5 miles East of Amboina by chronometers: the island has a sandy beach, but no soundings are got at 1 or 2 miles distance, and 40 fathoms was found at the South end, about a ship's length from the shore.

The Moffat, December 14th, 1824, had soundings of 42 fathoms coral rock, about ½ a mile off, with the North end of Pulo Gasses bearing N. N. E.¼ E., the S. E. end E. by S. ½ S., South end of Lookisong W. by S. ¼ S., North end of Long Island N.W. by W. Stood N. N.W. about a ¼ mile, then got no ground at 50 fathoms.

The Minstrel, November 15th, 1823, had 85 fathoms grey sand and shells, about 2 or 2½ miles off Pulo Gasses, its North point bearing N. 54° E., South point N. 79° E., North point of Lookisong N. 55° W., South point S. 68° W., and Long Island N. 56° W.

its adjoining strait.

The channel betwixt this island and Lookisong, called by some persons, GASSES STRAIT, formed between Pulo Gasses and Lookisong is safe, and should be adopted with a westerly wind; but the channel to the eastward of Pulo Gasses being wider, seems preferable with a working wind, in the night.

Geo. Site of Kekik; Islands near it.

KEKIK, in lat. 1° 33′ S., lon. 128° 37½′ E., bearing E. N. E. ¼ N., 6½ leagues distance from Pulo Gasses, is a high island. LAWN, in lat. 1° 34′ S., distant about 2 leagues eastward of Kekik, is also a high island, with an islet off each side of it, and another in the form of a button, betwixt it and Kekik.

Geo. Site of Pulo Pisang.

PULO PISANG, the highest of these small islands, forms in a double hill, like each other, and may be seen 11 or 12 leagues: it is situated in lat. 1° 23′ S., lon. 128° 53′ E., or 2° 25′ West from Point Pigot, measured by our chronometers, and Captain Heywood made it 37 miles East of Amboina by chronometer.

Geo. Site of the Boo Islands.

BOO ISLANDS, in lat. 1° 12′ S., lon. 129° 18′ E., distant about 9 or 10 leagues to the E. N. E. of Pulo Pisang, consists of a group of small low islands, more than 10 or 12 in number; and they bear West from the West end of Pulo Popa, distant 5 or 5½ leagues, which is the width of a safe channel formed between them, leading to Dampier's Strait, also into the Gillolo Passage. These islands are inhabited, and produce cocoa-nuts; dried fish and a few goats may also be procured, according to Captain Forrest's description, who touched here in 1775; he anchored in 15 fathoms, close to a small sandy island, having upon it some cocoa-nut trees.

Directions for entering the Gillolo Passage.

To enter into the Gillolo Passage by the channel mostly used, betwixt Pulo Gasses and Kekik, haul close round the South end of Pulo Gasses, to prevent being carried past the channel by the current, which frequently sets to the eastward. After rounding Pulo Gasses, the highest of the group of Dammer Islands, that lie off the South end of Gillolo, will begin to appear from the deck in the form of a saddle, the southernmost of which, in about lat. 1° 11′ S., bears nearly N. N. E. from the North end of Lookisong, distant 8½ or 9 leagues; and the largest of them is generally called Pulo Dammer.

Geo. Site of the Fairway Ledge.

BLACK ROCKS, or FAIRWAY LEDGE,* in lat. 1° 8½′ S., lon. 128° 30′ E., bearing about E. N. E., distant 6 miles from the southernmost of the Dammer Islands, is a low ridge of rocks extending E. N. E. and W. S.W. about 2 miles, part of which near the eastern extreme, being about the height of a small ship's hull above water, and from thence it extends in a low ridge 2 miles W. S.W., with a continuation of breakers some distance farther toward the Dammer Islands. This danger was not known to English navigators, until

* This danger appears to have been seen by the French ships Resolution, and La Subtile, in 1786, as it is marked on a M.S. chart of their track between Oby Major and the Dammer Islands.

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explored by Capt. Welstead, of the General Harris, on his passage from Bombay to China, in 1818, who passed between Pulo Gasses and Lookisong, January 13th, and found this channel very safe. The island Lookisong was approached close at the South part, which island was observed to be very near to the East end of Oby Major, apparently admitting no safe passage between them for ships. After passing through Gasses Strait, in steering to the N. N. Eastward for the Gillolo Passage, the Fairway Ledge was discovered, which is much in the way of ships steering towards the South point of Gillolo, particularly if they borrow near the Dammer Islands on account of westerly winds. Ships, therefore, passing here in the night, should keep well to the eastward when near the latitude of the South end of Gillolo, giving a wide birth to the Dammer Islands, and the Fairway Ledge, for there are no soundings to denote the proximity of this dangerous ledge.

Weeda Islands.

WEEDA ISLANDS, are very low, covered with wood, and form two compact groups, the southernmost bearing N. ½ W. from Kekik, and N. N. E. from the South point of Gillolo, and lie in about lat. 0° 40′ S. The centre of this group lies to the N. N. Eastward of the South point of Gillolo, distant 3 to 4 leagues, and it seems safe to approach, there being no ground with 100 fathoms line, within 2 miles of it on the East side. The other group lies about 2½ or 3 leagues to W. N. Westward of the former in the bight to the N.W. of Gillolo South Point.

Gillolo South Point.

GILLOLO SOUTH POINT, called COCOA-NUT POINT, in lat. 0° 48′ S., lon. 128° 28′ E., has a knob on it, but the land near it is rather low and uneven, and the coast between it and Point Tabo, forming a deep semicircular bay, is not seen in steering a direct course for the latter. The small island Ordel, is situated close to the southern part of Cocoa-nut Point, in the entrance of the strait formed between it and the Dammer Islands, which is too narrow for ships.

Point Tabo.

Pulo Moar,

Geo. Site of the islet near it.

JABO, TABO, or PATANY POINT, the eastern extremity of Gillolo has a gradual slope, ending in a bluff to seaward; and when bearing N.W. by N., some white cliffs are seen near it. The land hereabout is high, and over the point, stands a hill like a quoin, with its thick end to the westward. PULO MOAR, is low, flat, and woody, stretching out 1 to ½ mile from Point Tabo, and connected with it by rocks and breakers; close to the East end of Pulo, Moar there is a small islet, in lat. 0° 9 N., lon. 128° 58′ E. by chronometers, which forms the western boundary of the passage between it and Geby.

Shanpee Islands.

SHANPEE ISLANDS, bearing nearly North from Point Tabo, consist of a group three or four in number, extending 3 or 4 leagues North and South, the body of them beingin about lat. 0° 30′ N. They are mostly level, of considerable size, with a small elevation between the central part and the northernmost island.

Geo. Site of Catherine' Islands.

Geo. Site of Rocky Islet.

CATHERINE'S ISLANDS,* in lat. 0° 39′ N., lon. 129° 11′ E. by chronometers, bearing N. N. E. ½ E. from Pulo Moar, distant 11 leagues, are three small low islands near each other, forming the western boundary of the North entrance of the Gillolo Passage. The northernmost has the aspect of a rabbit, the central one resembles a sugar loaf, and the southernmost and largest island is of flat appearance. They are distant 6 or 6½ leagues to the E. N. E. of the Shanpee Islands, and have soundings near some of them. There is a rocky islet to the N. Westward of Catherine's Islands, in lat. 0° 45′ N., lon. 129° 8′ E., seen in January, 1808, by the Ardassier. And another Round Islet or Rock, apparently ½ or ¾

* Captain Pope, in the Minerva, got close to these islands at midnight, January 29th, 1808, and named them Catherine's Islands. Captain Tate, in the Cumbrian, got also close to them in the night of August 26th, 1809, returning from China, and thought them a new discovery.

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mile in circuit, having some small shrubs on it in different places, lies about 10 miles S.W. by W. from Catherine's Islands.

Canton Packet Shoal.

CANTON PACKET SHOAL, discovered by Capt, King in the American ship, Canton Packet, returning from China in 1818, is thought to be dangerous, and thus described by him.

Geo. Site.

July 26th, at 6 P. M., saw Catherine's Islands bearing S. E. by S. 3 or 4 leagues, and the wind being far to the eastward, we stood to the westward of these islands. At 4 A. M. tacked to the N. E., and at day-light the East point of Gillolo bore S. by W., the Shanpee Islands S. W. 9 or 10 miles, and Catherine's Islands N. E. by E. At 8½ A. M. discovered breakers on our lee quarter, with discoloured water ½ or ¾ of a mile to the eastward; tacked to the southward, but finding we could not clear the shoal, as the current set strong to the northward, tacked again to the N. Eastward. Saw the bottom, apparently white sand and black rocks, and had soundings from 9 to 14 fathoms: the place where the sea broke appeared to be a rock near the surface, with only from 4 to 6 feet water on it, when we approached it within 1¼ mile. When we had the above soundings on the shoal, the S. E. point of Gillolo bore S. by W., Catherine's Islands E. N. E., and the body of Shanpee Islands S. W. This shoal appears to lie nearly in mid-channel between the Shanpee and Catherine's Islands, and in lat. 0° 35′ N., lon. 128° 55′ E. On the following noon we observed in lat. Geo. Site. 0° 40′ N., lon. 129° 5′ E., the S. E. point of Gillolo bearing S. S.W., Catherine's Islands E. ¼ N., and the small round islet that lies about 10 miles to the S.W. by W. of the Catherine's Islands, bore S. ¼ W.

Geo. Site of Aurora Bank.

AURORA BANK, described as follows, by Captain George Vint, of the ship Aurora, was discovered by him, December 25th, 1816. At 8 A. M., steering eastward with a light northerly air, saw rocks alongside, immediately tacked, and had 8 fathoms water in stays; steered N.W., deepening gradually to 45 fathoms, then 120 fathoms no ground. When upon the bank, observations taken, placed it in lat. 0° 40′ N., lon. 129° 30′ E., and the northernmost of the Catherine's Islands was seen from the top-mast head bearing W. ½ S., distant about 5 or 6 leagues. This bank must be of small extent, as the Wexford, and Elphinstone were about 1 and 1½ mile to the westward of the Aurora when she was upon it, and neither of the former ships had soundings. Although 8 fathoms was the least water found on this bank by the Aurora, yet a whaler she fell in with a few days afterward, stated, that on some parts of it, there is only 5 feet water; which if correct, must render the Gillolo Passage not so safe in squally weather as hitherto supposed.

When the Aurora, had the northernmost of the Catherine's Islands bearing N. by W. distant 3 miles at 6 P. M., she had ground 58 fathoms, and shoaled regularly to 26 fathoms when not more than a mile from it; and having been drifted in a calm toward the central small island, she anchored at 9 P. M. in 20 fathoms, on a bottom of sand and shells; when the current or tide was running 3 miles per hour to the S.W., and afterward it set West about 1½ mile per hour.

Eastern coast of Gillolo.

THE EASTERN COAST of GILLOLO, is well inhabited in many places, with small villages fronting the sea adjacent to Point Tabo, and at other parts of the coast. Between the extensive peninsula that forms Point Tabo, and the other peninsula that stretches N. Eastward, and forms the N. E. extremity of Gillolo, the Great Bay of Ossa is situated; having in it several islands and shoals, with moderate depths and regular soundings, amongst, and inside of them.

Geo. Site of Ossa.

Islands and coast adjacent.

OSSA VILLAGE, in lat. 0° 45′ N., lon. 128° 22′ E. by chronometer, situated on the South side of the bay, abounds with nutmegs, and has a fine watering place; here, ships may procure water and refreshments, and plenty of timber for spars, on Pulo Orr, an island about

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3 miles to the N. N. E. of the village. The anchorage in the road, is in 12 to 14 fathoms, good holding ground, betwixt the island and the village of Ossa. About 2 leagues nearly East from Pulo Orr, lies Pulo Otto, on either side of which, there is a channel from 2 to 3 miles wide, leading from the road to the eastward: the depths are from 20 to 30 fathoms betwixt Pulo Otto and some shoals to the N. Westward, which bound the channel on that side; and from 17 to 20 fathoms in the South channel, betwixt it and Pulo England. This is a considerable island, uninhabited, and separated from Gillolo by a narrow passage, having good anchorage in it of 8 or 9 fathoms, and abounding with fish. These islands have reefs projecting from them, and there are several other islands and shoals, 2 or 3 leagues North and N. Westward from Pulo Orr; one of them a sandy isle, 8 or 9 feet above water, is about 3 or 4 miles N. by W. from it. About 2 miles West from Ossa Village, lies Ayer Watchey River and Village, where fresh water may be got about a mile up the river. Golonasy Village, situated about 4 miles to the N.W. of the latter, was destroyed by the Dutch, January 25th, 1808.

Maba Village and adjacent coast.

MABA VILLAGE, in about lat. 0° 53′ N., distant 6 leagues to the W. N. Westward of Ossa, is situated near the bottom of the bay, where there is a river navigable by boats, and good fresh water. Maba Island, situated near the shore to the northward of the river, has a few houses on it, and anchorage about 1½ or 2 miles to the eastward, in 10 to 12 fathoms water. Betwixt this place and Ossa, and from thence to Pulo Otto, the soundings extend along the coast pretty regular, to the distance of 5 or 6 miles off shore; but a good look out is requisite, to avoid the shoals contiguous to the coast, and others that lie interspersed in the offing.

A ship proceeding to any of these places, for water or refreshments, ought to keep a boat sounding a-head. Capt. William Greig, visited Ossa, and the adjacent parts, in the Minto, from Bengal, and constructed a plan of the South side of the bay, from whose statement this description is taken.

Geo. Site of Geby;

GEBY, extending about 6 or 7 leagues in length, nearly N.W. and S. E., is narrow, resembling several islands when viewed from the westward at 7 leagues distance; the northern part is rather low, but the South end is high, and terminates in a bluff point. The N.W. end of this island is in lat. 0° 4′ N., lon. 129° 19′ E., by mean of several ships' chronometers, nearly agreeing, but the True Briton's and Lieutenant M'Cluer's observations, place that end of the island exactly on the equator; it bears from Pulo Moar nearly E. by S. ½ S., distant 7 leagues, this being the narrowest part of the Gillolo Passage, about 6 or 6½ leagues wide.

Fow Island and the Harbour.

FOW, or FAUX ISLAND, in about lat. 0° 6′ S., has a peaked hill on its South part, and is separated from the western shore of Geby by a narrow channel, about ¼ mile wide, which forms a safe harbour, with depths from 10 to 15 fathoms. There is a passage into it, on either side of Fow Island, by keeping close to the latter; for a shoal lies nearly mid-way betwixt it and the Geby shore, in the West entrance, with good depths around. And in the South entrance, there are two small shoals, close to each other, with 7 fathoms water between them, 7 or 8 fathoms inside, and from 20 to 10 fathoms betwixt them and the East side of Fow Island, which is the widest and best channel.

Anchoring Bay and Village.

In the small bay to the eastward of these shoals, there is anchorage in 15 to 20 fathoms near the shore of Geby; Ketchepee, the principal village, being about 2 miles distant, on the East side of the island, with other villages near it to the southward. Soundings are not obtained until well in with the shore.

Bason.

Refreshments.

Isles adjacent.

On the North-East side of Fow Island, a narrow gut fronting Geby Harbour, stretches into the island close to the peaked hill, and forms an excellent port or bason; there being 4

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and 5 fathoms water in the narrow entrance, and from 10 to 16 fathoms inside. The fresh water rivulet, is upon the Geby shore, opposite to the North point of Fow Island; and the rise and fall of tide, is 5 feet on the springs. The island abounds with turtle and fish of various kinds; the natives were hospitable to Lieutenant M'Cleur, who touched here in 1794, and procured 1000 nutmeg plants; they prefer white cloth to other articles, and speak the Malay and Tidore languages. Monsieur Bouganville, in 1772, also stopped at this place for refreshments, and surveyed the port. The N. E. side of Geby is steep to, without anchorage; and the Isles Jyoi and Outah, about a league to the northward of the East point, are small and low.

Gagy, and other Islands.

GAGY, in about lat. 0° 25′ S., bearing nearly S. E. by E. from the S. E. end of Geby, distant 6 or 7 leagues, is an island of considerable extent, and moderately elevated, formed of uneven hummocks; having some small islets to the southward of it called Doff, and a large group called Batangpally Islands, to the eastward, fronting the S.W. end of Waygeeooe. Between these and Gagy, there is a passage, and the channel betwixt Gagy and Geby is very safe, having an islet in it near the South end of the latter. This channel is sometimes adopted by ships proceeding outward; and it may probably be chosen to advantage, by ships coming in toward the Pitt's Passage during the S. E. monsoon, being more to windward than the channel betwixt the West end of Geby and Gillolo.

Geo. Site of Syang.

SYANG, in lat. 0° 22′ N., lon. 129° 55′ E. by chronometer, bearing from the N.W. end of Geby about E. N. E. ½ N. distant 13 leagues, is a low flat island about 4 miles in extent, having soundings from 10 to 20 fathoms sand and rocks, within 2 or 3 miles of its western side; farther in, there are 6 or 7 fathoms, with fresh water at a rocky point, near the N. Western extremity of the island.

Geo. Site of Eye Islands.

EYE ISLAND, in lat. 0° 24′ N., lon. 129° 53′ E., adjacent to the North end of Syang, is small and low, covered with trees, with soundings near it. This is the outermost island, Eye bounding the eastern side of the North entrance of the Gillolo Passage, and it bears E. 21° S., distant 15 leagues from Catherine's Islands, which bound it to the westward.

The Streatham, January 12th, 1820, in passing Eye Island, saw breakers about 1½ mile off the N.W. point.

Wyang, and adjacent Islands.

WYANG, distant about 4 leagues S. Eastward from Syang, is the northernmost of a range of islands, stretching from it to the N.W. end of Waygeeooe; of which, EEN is the farthest to the N. E.; and RUIB the largest, lies farthest to the S. W. toward Gagy, having a rocky islet about a league to the westward.

Chennels.

Some of these islands are of considerable height, one of them has a table land on it, and another of the westernmost of them, is formed of several hummocks. The channels among them are considered safe, but rather contracted between some of the islands: if the wide channel betwixt Geby and Syang, is not adopted by ships passing to the eastward of the former island, they may proceed betwixt Syang and Wyang, which seems to be the widest of the other channels.

Ormsbee's Shoal.

ORMS BEE'S SHOAL, discovered by the American ship Asia, Capt. J. H. Ormsbee, is thus described in her journal. August 6th, 1818, at noon observed in lat. 0° 4c N., lon. 130° 8′ E. by chronometer. At 1½ P. M. lon. 130° 1¾′ E. by observation of sun and moon, steering southerly with moderate breezes at S.W. by W. to W. S.W., was alarmed at 2½ P. M. by the bottom being seen alongside; tacked immediately, and had 15 fathoms coral, then stood North and N. by W. in soundings of 15 to 20 fathoms coral till 4 P. M., at which time had 16 fathoms, next cast no ground 150 fathoms, Nameless Island (of Laurie and

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Geo. Site.

Whittle's Chart) bearing S. by E. ½ E.; Wyag, an island full of hummocks, S. ½ E.; and Syang, apparently a low flat island, seen from the mizen-top. Although 15 fathoms was the least water we got on the bank, yet at a small distance from the ship, the water appeared shoaler, but no breakers were visible, the sea being smooth. The current was setting to the northward about 1 mile per hour, by allowing for which, the north edge of the shoal is in lat. 0° 46′ N., and that part where we first had soundings in lat. 0° 42′ N., lon. 130° 4′ E. by chronometer, and 130° 2′ E. by observation of the sun and moon.

Directions for sailing through the Gillolo Passage.

HAVING ENTERED THE GILLOLO PASSAGE, by Gasse's Strait, or by the channel on the East side of Pulo Gasses, steer in the first case about N. N. E.½ E., and in the latter about N. by E., to pass through the channel between Point Tabo and Geby. Care must be taken in the night to give a birth to the Fairway Ledge, and to the Weeda Islands, but it is advisable to borrow on the West side of the passage, when the winds are light, because the current sometimes sets to the N. E. or Eastward.

If the wind hang at N. N.W., so as to occasion delay in working to the westward of Geby, pass to leeward, betwixt it and Gagy, then out into the ocean, through any of the channels contiguous to Syang. But the western channel contiguous to Gillolo, and between Catherine's Islands and Syang, ought to be pursued if circumstances admit, in order to weather the Yowl and Asia's Islands. This is rendered necesary, on account of northerly winds generally prevailing when clear of the Gillolo Passage, with a southerly swell, and a current of from 12 to 20 miles daily, setting to the S. Eastward.

and from thence, out into the ocean.

If any difficulty is experienced in passing to the westward of the Asia's Islands, the Channel betwixt them and the Yowl Islands may be followed, it being about 6½ league wide, and very safe; or in case of necessity, pass to the southward of the latter islands, betwixt them and the North coast of Waygeeooe.

When clear of the Gillolo Passage, endeavour to get into lat. 1° 30′ N. to 2° N. as soon as possible, which is considered the best track for getting to the eastward: a constant S. E. or Southerly current may be expected, while running to the eastward in these parallels, which requires attention to keep up the northing; but lat. 3° N. should not be exceeded, for farther to the northward, the limit of the N. E. monsoon will be approached, where the N.W. or Northerly breezes, often veer to the N. Eastward.

The S. E. current will probably change into an easterly one, and set to the northward of East, as the latitude is increased: about the parallel of the Pellew Islands, it may be expected to cease; and when the N. E. monsoon begins to blow steady, a westerly current will be experienced. In the early part of the season, it may be prudent to pass to the eastward of the Pellew Islands, but late in January, February, and March, it will be sufficient to pass near them to the westward.

Waygeeooe North coast.

WAYGIOU or WAYGEEOOE, called QUARIDO by the inhabitants, is high uneven land, and the North coast is bold to approach in most places; although some of the points, and small isles near the shore, have reefs projecting from them, and a rocky shoal stretches out a considerable way from the West end of the island. There are three harbours on this coast, where fresh water may be got, two of which are sheltered from all winds, and seem to be pretty safe, by Capt. Forrest's plans of them, although they are little known.

Piapis Harbour.

PIAPIS, the westernmost of these harbours, is situated about 3 leagues eastward from the N.W. point of Waygeeooe. Rocks on which the sea generally breaks, project ¼ mile from the West point of the entrance, in a W. N.W. direction, which are avoided by steering in about S. E., and keeping nearest to the West point, off which, stands a Haycock Rock, about 15 feet high, with 10 fathoms mud, close to.

The entrance of this harbour is a large ¼ mile wide, having 30 and 20 fathoms water in

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it, decreasing toward the shores inside, where it separates into two branches. A ship may haul round the Haycock Rock, and anchor to the S.W. of it in 15 or 20 fathoms mud, and fresh water may be got at a pool on the island inside, which has a hill on it. There are rocks betwixt this island and the western shore; with a passage of 8 fathoms close to the island, and 5 fathoms close to the shore in a cove at the S.W. side, where a ship might be careened. At the bottom of the eastern branch of the harbour, there is good timber for masts, and a small brook of water, near two peaked hills; and there is a pool of fresh water on the small, but high Island Sipsipa, which forms the East point of the harbour's entrance. Nearly mid-way betwixt this place and Offak Harbour, there is a small island called Shoe Island, from its appearance, situated near the shore of Waygeeooe.

Geo. Site of Offak Harbour.

OFFAK HARBOUR, situated on the equator, in lon. 130° 50′ E., about 8 leagues eastward of Piapis Harbour, is surrounded by high land, and not easily discerned from the offing. On the East side of the entrance, stands a Sugar Loaf Hill, about 500 feet high, and inland a conical peak, called the Buffalo's Horn, which is in one with the Sugar Loaf bearing S. S. W. The entrance of the harbour, is a large ¼ mile wide, with 20 and 30 fathoms water, and the course in, about S. by W., keeping some rocky islets, like haycocks, on the left hand, which lie near the East point of the entrance. The harbour inside, stretches a great way to the S.W. and eastward; and two islands connected by a reef, front the entrance, the outermost of which, has a pool of fresh water on it, and a reef projects from its western extreme. On the south side of this island, and reef, there are from 12 to 6 fathoms mud, and 20 to 26 fathoms about mid way betwixt it and the East point of the entrance. A little way round this point inside, there is a small sandy cove with 10 fathoms water in it, and a stream of fresh water running into the sea.

Rawak Harbour.

RAWAK HARBOUR, distant from Offak Harbour about 4 leagues to the eastward, formed inside of Pulo Rawak, which is separated from the coast by a narrow passage, with 8 and 9 fathoms water in it. The large entrance is from eastward, about ½ a mile wide, with depths of 17 fathoms, decreasing to 10 fathoms inside. Here, a ship may lie sheltered from all winds, but those which blow between East and N. Eastward, and procure water from two streams on the Waygeeooe shore opposite, which is inhabited. This harbour, like the others described above, is rather too confined for large ships, unless in a case of necessity; but they seem convenient for vessels of middling size.

Pulo Manouaran.

PULO MANOUARAN, distant about 3 miles from the coast, and 5 miles to the N.W. of pulo Rawak, is of moderate height, with a pool of fresh water on it, and an islet close to its N.W. point. There are soundings to the East and westward of Manouaran, and a safe channel inside of it, with irregular depths from 10 to 20 fathoms. About 2 miles West from Pulo Rawak, there is a patch of 6 fathoms; and about 5 miles East of the same island, there is a point of land with a small isle near it on the East side called Boni by the natives, from which isle, a shoal projects 2 or 3 miles to the northward, having 4 fathoms on its extremity.

Geo. Site of Boni Road.

BONI ROAD, in lat. 0° 01′ S., lon. 131° 12′ E., distant 5 or 5½ miles to the eastward of Pulo Rawak, is formed by Boni Isle on the East side, and by a point of Waygeeooe to the westward. There is a river here, which boats can go into, and fill their casks with fresh water at all times of tide. The French ships Recherche, and Esperance, on their voyage in search of La Perouse, remained at this anchorage from the 16th to the 28th of August, 1793, to renovate the health of their scorbutic crews. They procured from the natives, turtles brought from the Yowl Islands, hogs, fowls, rice, sago, cocoa-nuts, oranges, sugar-cane, pumpkins, &c. Other French navigators, have touched here for refreshments, during their

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late voyages of explorations in the eastern seas. Chinese vessels sometimes touch here, and at other harbours among the Molucca Islands.

Coast to Point Pigot.

From this harbour, the coast trends to the S. E., then round to the South and S. S.W. toward Point Pigot; and about 3 or 4 leagues to the northward of that point, it is fronted by a reef extending out to a considerable distance, which may probably be connected by detached patches with the following shoal.

Buccleugh's Shoal.

BUCCLEUGH'S SHOAL, discovered by the Company's ship, Duke of Buccleugh, August 24th, 1797, is described in her journal as follows. At 1½ P. M. saw coral rocks under the bottom, apparently 5 or 6 fathoms under water, up helm immediately, as the water appeared shoaler on the weather bow. When the lead was got ready, the reef or shoal was ½ a cable's length astern, had then 20 fathoms sand and gravel, the extremes of Waygeeooe bearing from N.52° W. to Point Pigot S. 60° W. and the small island just open with the point, the nearest part of Waygeeooe distant 12 or 13 miles; at this time in lat. 0° 17′ S. from noon observation.

This shoal appeared 2 or 3 miles in extent, as the discoloured water over the rocks shelled from the mast-head; and although squally weather prevented us from sending a boat to sound, have no doubt there is little water on some parts of it.

H. M. ship Hesper, Capt. Campbell, got upon this shoal, December 28th, 1815, after passing out of Dampier's Strait. At day-light, when 4 or 5 miles to the East of Point Pigot, hauled up N. E., but perceiving breakers at a considerable distance off the East end of the Island Waygeeooe, bore away to the eastward. At 9 A. M. hauled up again to N. E., at 10 observed the water discoloured, saw rocks under the bottom, and by putting the helm up, cleared the shoalest part of a dangerous Rocky Bank, in passing over which, had 7, 9, 6, 4¾, 5, and 14 fathoms, then no bottom, when the following bearings were immediately taken: the trees on the small island off Point Pigot W. 30° S., just visible with the eye elevated 16 feet above the sea, Point Pigot W. 25½° S., and the supposed eastern point of Waygeeooe W. 37½° N. The shoal is about 11 or 12 miles distant from the nearest land, which is the East end of Waygeeooe, and although so far off, may probably be connected by detached patches, with the breakers seen in the morning, and it may be the outermost of them. The rocks on the shoalest part of it, did not appear to be more than 8 or 10 feet under water, when between the waves of the heavy swell then rolling over them, which on this part, seemed almost ready to break.

Directions

This shoal is rendered more dangerous, as ships generally haul up to the N. Eastward after passing out of Dampier's Strait, to avoid the risk of being set close over on the coast of New Guinea, by the heavy swell and baffling northerly winds which sometimes prevail. But as the shoal bears E. 30° N. distant 12 miles from the Island off Point Pigot, it may be in some measure a guide, to sink that island from the deck of a large ship, bearing to the westward of W. 30° S., when departing from Dampier's Strait.

The Castlereagh, Capt. Durant, January 26th, 1826, got upon the Buccleugh's Shoal. when at 9¾ A. M., rocks were seen under the bottom, immediately tacked to the eastward. Point Pigot bearing S. 62° W., Island off it S. 59° W., northern extreme of Waygeeooe N. 55° W., open to the northward of a peaked hill near the sea: had 9½, 7, and 13 fathoms in stays when the above bearings were taken, and in a few minutes afterward steering E by N., had no ground. The shoal appeared of great extent, and at least 12 miles off shore; sent a boat to sound on it, and 5¼ fathoms was found on the eastern verge, but she had not time to examine it properly.

The Castlereagh spoke a ship a few days afterward, which had worked to the northward between the shoal and the Waygeeooe shore, and found the channel safe, without any apparent danger.

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Yowl Islands.

Geo. Site.

YOWL, or AIOU ISLANDS, consist of a circular group of small low isles, about 20 in number, of various sizes, fortified by an extensive reef which projects around them to a an considerable distance, generally 2 or 3 miles, and it is steep to. The southernmost islands, extending nearly East and West about 5 leagues, are five in number; and the largest, called Aiou, or Baba, is about 3 miles long, having a considerable number of huts on its West end, and is the fourth island from the eastward. It is situated in about lat. 0° 25′ N., ton. 131° 0′ E., or 18 miles West from Point Pigot by chronometer; and the channel betwixt the coast of Waygeeooe and the nearest part of the reef, is about 8 leagues wide. The S. Westernmost island of the group, is detached a considerable distance from the others. The central and southernmost islands, are uneven, and a little higher than the N. Eastern ones, which are low and flat; several of them are inhabited, and they abound with excellent turtle. The N.W. island is in lat. 0° 38′ N., lon. 131° 8′ E., the N. Easternmost in lat. 0° 36′ N., lon. 131° 15′ E., or 2° 4′ East from Catherine's Islands by chronometers; and the northern extremity of the reef that surrounds them, is in lat. 0° 41′ N. Within 30 yards of the breakers, the Lord North's boat, had no ground 60 fathoms.

Asia's Islands.

Geo. Site.

ASIA'S ISLANDS, were first distinctly pointed out by the ship of this name, July 1st, 1805, in her passage from China to Bombay. January 12th, 1807, the Anna passed between them and the Yowl Islands; and the Cumbrian, Bellona, and Perseverance,* have also passed through this channel at different times, which is 6½ leagues broad, and clear of danger. When passing near the northernmost of the Yowl Islands, in the Anna, part of Waygeeooe was in sight, and the Asia's Islands were just visible from the deck. They consist of three low, level islands, the S. Westernmost of which is smallest, situated in lat. 1° 0′ N., and bears N. 3° E. from the N. Easternmost Yowl Island, distant 24 miles, or in lon. 131° 17′ E. by the Anna's chronometers: but the Asia, made it 2 miles East of Point Pigot by chronometers, or in lon. 131° 20′ E.

The two southernmost islands lie near each other; and the other detached from them about 5 miles N. E. by N., has a reef above water projecting from its N. E. extreme, about 1 or 2 miles to the eastward. This island is in lat. 1° 4′ N., lon. 131° 23′ E., or 5 miles East from Point Pigot by chronometers. The London, December 30th, 1824, observed at noon in lat. 0° 47′ N., lon. 131° 18′ E. by lunars, when the centre of the groups of the Asia and Yowl Islands were bearing N. by E. and S. by W. of each other, being in a transit line between them, and the easternmost of the latter, was seen from the deck bearing South.

4th. DAMPIER'S, AND PITT'S STRAITS, WITH SAILING DIRECTIONS: COASTS, ISLANDS, AND CONTIGUOUS DANGERS.

To proceed from the Pitt's Passage, towards Dampler's Strait.

WHEN SHIPS proceeding through the Pitt's Passage, do not go out by the Gillolo Passage, they generally steer to the eastward for Dampier's Strait, betwixt Pulo Popa and the Kanary Islands: this is the narrowest part of the Pitt's Passage, being about 8 or 9 leagues wide. The channel betwixt the Boo Islands and Pulo Popa, and on the North side of the latter, is now frequently adopted by ships bound to, or from Dampier's Strait, in either monsoon, being considered equally safe as that to the southward of Pulo Popa.

Grosvenor's Shoal.

GROSVENOR'S SHOAL, having 4½ fathoms water on it, or probably less, on which the Grosvenor anchored at 8 P. M., January 31st, 1763, is the only known danger in the

* This ship, passed these islands, January 12th, 1807, the same day as the Anna (but not in company); and thought they were a new discovery. The Lord North, however, saw them, July 19th, 1782, or three days after discovering the island that generally bears her flame.

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Pitt's Passage, but its situation has not been correctly ascertained; for the following bearings were taken in that ship, when upon it in the night; Pulo Popa from E. by N. ½ N. to N. E. ½ E., the body of the island E. N. E. ¼ N., distant about 5 leagues, and the Boo Islands bearing from N. ¾ W. to N.W. by W., distant from the nearest about 3 leagues. Although she got on it in the night, the rocks were seen under the bottom; and after weighing, with the boats sounding a-head, the water deepened fast from 4½ to 10, 20, and 30 fathoms, then no ground.

It was probably upon this shoal, that the ship Castlereagh, of Bombay, struck, of which the following account, was transmitted by Capt. Durant, of that ship.

January 9th, 1817, at 11 P. M. saw the Boo Islands bearing N. E., steered between East and E. N. E., kept the lead going, but got no soundings. At 3 A. M. the ship struck on a coral shoal, got out the long boat and cutter, carried out the stream anchor, and dropped it in 9 fathoms water about half a cable's length from the ship, and hove her off, then deepened immediately from 3½, to 9, and 16 fathoms, next cast no ground. When upon the shoal, found the current setting directly toward the Boo Islands 4 knots per hour; had no time to take correct bearings, but the shoal bears from the East end of the Boo Islands between S. ½ W. and S. ½ E., as the East end of those islands bore nearly North when we struck. At day-light Pulo Popa bore E. by S., and the Boo Islands N. W., distant 4 or 5 miles.

Kanary Islands, and adjacent small harbours.

KANARY ISLANDS, bounding the South side of the passage in this part, form an extensive chain of flat, woody, uninhabited islands, stretching along the North coast of Mysole about E. by N., having a narrow passage betwixt some of them, and other isles which lie close to that coast. Grand Kanary, in lat. 1° 44′ S., and about 5 or 6 leagues West from the meridian of the body of Pulo Popa, is of considerable size, and the largest of these islands. On the South side of it, about 4 miles from the East point, there is a pool of fresh water, with anchorage of 6 and 7 fathoms on the North side of the point, between it and the two nearest islands. Captain Forrest, who touched at this place, named it Round Harbour; he found soundings near these islands, and channels betwixt some of them, with irregular depths from 9 to 25 fathoms.

He also went to Ef be Harbour, in about lat. 2° 12′ S., which is small, and formed by the Island Ef be, contiguous to the South coast of Mysole: here, he found the small village Ef be, and was well received by the inhabitants.

Mysole.

MYSOLE, is a large island extending East and West about 14 leagues, and about half that breadth; the North side of it, fronting the Kanary Islands, is level land, of moderate height; and its coasts are lined mostly all round, by a range of small isles. The channel betwixt the East end of Mysole and the West point of New Guinea and Salawatty, is 9 or 10 leagues wide, with several small islands in it, and soundings in the southern part.

Pulo Popa.

Geo. Site.

Contiguous Isles.

PULO POPA, is about 5 or 6 leagues in length East and West, including the contiguous isles, which surround its S.W. and western parts; and it is about 3 leagues in breadth. A semicircular hill, like a Bee-Hive, and another oblong hill, both situated near the N.W. end of the island, render it very conspicuous; for the eastern part, is formed of a considerable extent of low, flat land. The N. E. point of the island, is a transit with the Bee-hive bearing W. 2° S.; and the S. E. point is a transit with it bearing W. 2° N. It is inhabited, and the S. E. point is in lat. 1° 12′ S., lon 129° 52′ E., or 1° 26′ West from Point Pigot by chronometer, and the round hill is in lat. 1° 9′ S. The group of small isles off the S.W. part of Pulo Popa, are sometimes called the Tatas; and Calap, is a considerable island near its West end. Deception Island, situated to the N. E. of Calap, and adjoining to the N.W. part of Pulo Popa, appears like four separate islands, in passing along the North side of it; having four different points, each resembling an island, until they are closely approached. Close

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to, and among these isles which surround the western part of Pulo Popa, there are soundings, but none at 2 or 3 miles distance. When Calap was opening between Deception Island and Pulo Popa, Capt. Clarke, of the True Briton, in July, 1802, had from 30 to 17 and 15 fathoms water; then 25 fathoms with the round hill on Pulo Popa bearing E. ½ S., and Deception Island from E. by S. to S.W. ¾ W., distance off shore about a mile. She hauled off about 1½ mile, and for a considerable time, carried irregular soundings from 17 to 36 fathoms, shells and coral, then no ground 60 fathoms; when in 12½ fathoms, there was a rippling, but that was the least water she had. On opening the West end of Calap beyond Deception Island bearing S.W. by S., the Boo Islands appeared W. by S., distant 6 or 7 leagues; and when the West end of Pulo Popa was opened beyond Deception Island, a sandy bason was seen on the North side of the former, with shoal water, and a round bush upon a rock in the centre of the bason.

Geo. Site of Cape Mabo.

Fisher's Islands.

CAPE MABO, in lat. 0° 56′ S., lon. 130° 25′ E., or 53 miles West of Point Pigot by chronometer, bearing E. N. E. ½ N. from the S. E. end of Pulo Popa, distant about 13 leagues, is the western extremity of the Island Battanta, which separates Dampier's and Pitt's Straits from each other. Fisher's Island, is small, but high, and fronts the Cape, bearing W. ½ N. from it about 2 miles distance; these bound the West entrance of Dampier's Strait on the South side, and a chain of low flat islands, bounds it to the N. Westward.

Other isles.

The land of Battanta, and also that of Salawatty on the South side of Pitt's Strait, may be discerned in clear weather, after a ship has passed Pulo Popa on either side; both of these islands, being high bold land.

Dampier's Strait.

DAMPIER'S STRAIT, called GAMEN or GEMI by the Dutch, is formed by the island of Battanta on the South, and Waygeeooe on the North side, being about 23 leagues in length from Cape Mabo to Point Pigot; but that part of the strait which has some dangers in it, situated to the northward of Battanta, is only about 11 leagues in length, extending from Augusta Shoal to Mansfield Island. Gamen, is the largest of several islands that border the strait, and appears as part of the South coast of Waygeeooe, being separated from it only by a narrow channel.

King William's,

and other Islands.

KING WILLIAM'S ISLAND, situated to the southward of Gamen, and on the North side of the strait, is high, with a white patch on its eastern extremity; it may be seen 12 or 13 leagues, and when first discerned in coming from the eastward, three hills on it appear like separate islands. Contiguous to the East end of King William's Island, Hump Island is situated, with a round rocky islet outside of it at a small distance; and several small islets lie near the shore of Waygeeooe.

Augusta, and Pigeon Islands.

Contiguous shoals and channel.

AUGUSTA, AND PIGEON ISLANDS, are two small low islands, in lat. 0° 37′ S., situated at a considerable distance to the southward of the S.W. end of King William's Island, and bound the North side of the proper passage: in landing on them, care is requisite, to prevent boats being injured by the sharp rocks during the ebb tide. To the northward, betwixt these islands and King William's Island, there is said to be several shoals, with intricate channels among them; and although a ship, in a clear day, might find a safe passage this way, by keeping a good look out at the mast-head for the shoals, it ought not to be attempted unless in a case of necessity. Neither ought the narrow passage betwixt Augusta and Pigeon Islands, to be attempted; for although the Cornwallis and some other vessels, have gone through this way, there is considerable risk in doing so, it being very narrow, and formed betwixt steep coral shoals.

Bank of anchorage.

Pigeon Island, bears about E. by S. from Augusta Island, and at low water, their shores are separated about ½ a mile: each is surrounded by a coral bank, which does not stretch

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out far to the south-east, or northward of them; but a chain of coral patches appears to extend 3 miles from them in a S. Westerly direction, with others nearly 2 miles to the westward. On the South side of Pigeon Island, the coral bank, with only 3 or 4 feet water on it, projects about ½ a cable's length, then the water deepens fast to 3, 5, and 10 fathoms. From the East end of this island, a reef and sand, partly above water, stretches out ¼ mile, deepening to 5 and 6 fathoms about 1 or 1½ mile from the island. And farther to the eastward, about 3 to 5 miles from Pigeon Island, there is a bank of coral and sand about 3 miles in extent, with various depths on it from 8, to 14 or 15 fathoms. This bank affords anchorage to ships stopping tide, or during the night, for there is thought to be no less than 6 or 7 fathoms water on it, and these depths are generally found on the West part, near the reef that projects from Pigeon Island.

The narrow channel betwixt Augusta and Pigeon Islands, has 30 fathoms water in the middle of it, when in a direct line between them; and from 20 to 10 fathoms in the western part, about a mile from Augusta Island. The coral banks bounding it on each side, appear to have 2½ or 3 fathoms water on them at low tide; consequently, there is depth sufficient for a small vessel. The sharp coral rock, lining the shores of these islands, render them inconvenient for wooding at, the landing being difficult, and the tide ebbs and flows 11 or 12 feet perpendicular.

Foul Island.

FOUL ISLAND, situated about 3 leagues to the E. S. Eastward of Pigeon Island, betwixt the East end of King William's Island and the North shore of Battanta, is level and small, nearest to the latter, and bounds the proper channel on the South side. This is the narrowest part of the strait, for Foul Island ought not to be approached under 3 miles, on account of the Vansittart's Shoal.

Mansfield Islands and others.

MANSFIELD ISLAND, bearing nearly East from Foul Island, about 2½ or 3 leagues distance, is a white sand bank, covered with a clump of tall trees, situated on the South side of the strait, upon the edge of the Vansittart's Shoal. There is another island of similar appearance, about a mile inside of Mansfield Island, with some others contiguous to the Battanta shore, scarcely discernible in passing.

Vansittart's Shoal.

VANSITTART'S SHOAL, resembles nearly in shape a right-angled triangle, stretching a great way out from the North side of Battanta; Foul Island being situated near the angular point, distant 2½ or 2 miles from the N.W. extremity of the shoal; and two sand banks dry at low water, which lie on the western extremity, bear from Foul Island W. by S. ¼ S., distant about 4 miles. The North side of this extensive shoal, takes an easterly direction from its N. Western angle, toward the East end of Battanta, having Mansfield Island on its northern edge; and being steep to, all round, it ought not to be too closely approached. The True Briton's boat, had from 40 fathoms near the western edge of the shoal, to 20 and 10 fathoms suddenly, then 4 feet upon it, with the two sand banks bearing from S. E ½ S. to S. E. ½ E., distant ½ a mile, Foul Island E. by N. about 2 or 3 miles, West extreme of Battanta W. S.W. ½ S., and the West end of Augusta Island N.W. by W. From hence, steering about E. by N. on the edge of the shoal in 1½ to 4 fathoms, she had at the distance of a cable's length on the same course 39 fathoms, one of the sand banks bearing S. ½ W., the other S.W. by W., Foul Island E. by N. ¼ N., West end of Battanta W.S.W. ¼ S., the East end of Augusta and West end of Pigeon Islands in one N.W. ½ W. With Mansfield and Foul Islands in one, had suddenly from 37 to 4 fathoms, then 3 feet: with Foul Island bearing E. ½ S., distant 1½ or 2 miles, and Augusta Island W. N.W., she had from 21 fathoms, suddenly to 3 and 2 feet on the edge of the shoal.

Fresh water river.

About 3 or 3½ leagues S.W. from Foul Island, and near the S. Western extremity of the Vansittart's Shoal, there is a bay formed on the Battanta shore, with a fresh water river

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bearing nearly South from Pigeon Island. Here, wood and water may be got, but as some habitations adjoin, boats should be on their guard, for these islands are inhabited partly by Papuas, from the coast of New Guinea, who are in a savage state. About a mile off the entrance of this river, there are soundings from 20 to 30 fathoms, decreasing to 17 and 18 fathoms on a bank farther out, about 2 or 2½ miles North from it.

There is a small bay about 4 miles to the westward of the fresh water river, having some islands in it covered with mangroves, where the landing is very difficult: soundings generally of deep water, extend along this N. Western side of Battanta, to the distance of about 2 leagues from the shore.

Exclusive of Vansittart's Shoal, and those projecting from Augusta and Pigeon Islands, there appear to be several detached coral patches in Dampier's Strait, only one or two of which are known to be dangerous, and they have generally deep water contiguous to them.

Augusta Shoal.

Other shoal patches.

AUGUSTA SHOAL, bearing from Augusta Island W. by S., distant 2 leagues, is a small patch of coral on which the Princess Augusta had 4 fathoms; but there seems to be several shoal spots near this situation, having too little water on them for large ships, consequently, ought to be avoided. The Buccleugh, struck on one of them, August 26th, 1797, whilst in stays; having perceived the water discoloured, the helm was put down, and the ship immediately struck, but came round, then fell into 17 fathoms water. At this time, Augusta Island bore E. by N. ¼ N., Pigeon Island E. by N., and the West point of Battanta about S. by W. ¼ W. The Woodford got into danger, at a greater distance to the westward of Augusta Island, September 1st, 1797: she struck, and lost way for a few minutes, had 4 fathoms rocks by the lead; but as no discoloured water was seen a-head, she continued to stand S.W. with the wind at S. S. E., and having run about 2 cable's length, struck again, and had 6 fathoms rocks in the chains. The helm being then put down, the ship came round, stood East under a press of sail for about 10 or 15 minutes, and seeing the appearance of shoal water on the lee bow, tacked to the S.W., and deepened gradually from 25, to 40 fathoms no ground. The attention of all on board having been directed to the safety of the ship, no hearings were taken until this time, Augusta Island then bore E. N. E. ½ N., distant about 6 leagues, Pigeon Island E. N. E. just in sight from the poop, body of King William's Island N. E. by E., Fisher's Island S.½ W. 5 or 6 leagues, Cape Mabo S. ½ E., and the chain of low islands from N.W. by N. to W. ¾ S: Although, unfortunately, the true situation of these rocky patches cannot be ascertained by this description taken from the Woodford's Journal, they probably bear about W. by S. or W. by S. ½ S. from Augusta Island, distant 5 or 6 leagues. These dangers are avoided by keeping within 3 leagues of the N.W. side of Battanta, until Augusta and Pigeon Islands bear well to the northward.

Shoals near Augusta Islands.

OTHER SHOAL PATCHES, project from Augusta Island to the S. Westward, the outermost of which is about ½ a cable's length in extent, having 4¾ fathoms coral rock in the centre, deepening to 10 and 20 fathoms toward the edges. Foul Island bears from it E. by S. ½ S., the East part of Pigeon Island E. N.E. ½ N., and the body of Augusta Island N. by E. ½ E., distant 2½ or 3 miles.

Soundings.

The soundings to the eastward of Pigeon Island, deepen fast from thence toward the N.W. edge of the Vansittart's Shoal, and are very irregular, with deep holes in some parts. The Glatton anchored in 40 fathoms rocky bottom, With Foul Island bearing S. E. 4 or 5 miles, Hump Island N. N. E., the West part of Battanta about W. by S., and in tending with her head to the northward, no ground could be obtained with 140 fathoms of line.

From the bank of anchorage eastward of Pigeon Island, the water also deepens fast to the North, toward the East end of King William's Island, there being no ground 90 fathoms about a mile off it.

Coast of Waygeeooe.

To the northward of King William's Island, there are dangerous shoals, some of them sand

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banks even with the water's edge; and two considerable villages on the Waygeeooe shore adjacent, are fronted by a coral shoal steep to, rendering the approach to them unsafe. These villages lie to the N. N. Eastward of Hump Island, on the West side of the mouth of a large strait, full of islands, which separates Gamen from Waygeeooe. The inhabitants of these villages sometimes come off in their canoes to ships passing, bringing with them coarse mats, bows and arrows, birds of paradise, with a few pumpkins, which they will exchange for white cloth; but they seem very poor, possessing no articles of consequence.

Shols adjacent.

THE WAYGEEOOE SHORE, betwixt King William's Island and Point Pigot, ought not to be too closely approached, as it is fronted by some shoals. The Grosvenor, February 9th, 1763, discerned shoal water, on which place the boat found 9 feet rocks and sand, with no soundings at 60 fathoms close to. After tacking, the body of the rocks were seen from the mast-head bearing N. E. ½ N., distant about 3 miles, Waygeeooe bearing from E. by N. ½ N. to W. ½ S. about 3 leagues distant, a small island off Point Pigot E. by N., the South end of King William's Island W. by S. ½ S., and the East end of Battanta S. by W.

The Bombay, Capt. A. Hamilton, in 1820, saw a Dry Sand Bank about 1 or 1½ mile distant from the Waygeeooe shore, and when it bore N. 4° W., Cape Spencer or Foul Point bore S. 5° E., and the East point of Battanta S. 41° W. This sand bank is on a transit line with a round knob like an island bearing N. 13° W., and it is in a transit line with the Nest end of the island off Point Pigot, bearing N. 11° E.

To sail from Pulo Popa.

Toward Dampier's Strait.

If you intend to proceed through Dampier's Strait, haul up near the Boo Islands, and pass on the North side of Pulo Popa if the wind incline at N.W., in order to lead round Fisher's Island into the entrance of the strait, without losing time. If, however, night is approaching, it may be advisable to pass on the South side of Pulo Popa, and after rounding its eastern extremity, haul up N. E. or N. E. by N. for Dampier's Strait; because, the current sets generally S. E. or southward, which makes the passage to the northward of Pulo Popa preferable, when circumstances are favorable; but care must be taken to give a birth to the chain of low islands situated to the N.W. and W. N.W. of Cape Mabo, about 8 leagues distant; for there may be dangers in their vicinity, exclusive of the shoal patches to the eastward, between them and Augusta Island. They are all avoided, by borrowing toward the western shore of Battanta, which is bold, and it is the safe side of the channel to preserve.

When Cape Mabo is brought to bear South, keep within 3 leagues of Battanta, and do not bring Pigeon Island to the eastward of E. N. E. or E. N. E. ¼ N., by which means Augusta Shoal, and the other patches bordering the North side of the channel, will be avoided; for they seem to extend in a direction about W. by S. or W. by S. ½ S. from Augusta Island about 6 leagues, or nearly to the chain of low islands.

Having passed about 3 or 4 leagues to the N. E. of Fisher's Island, soundings will Le got along the shore of Battanta, which extend across to the North side of the channel in some places, and to Augusta and Pigeon Islands; but the soundings are generally irregular, from 70 to 35 fathoms, except where they decrease near to, or on the edge of some of the shoal patches contiguous to the North side of the channel. As the bottom is generally foul, it is prudent to use a light anchor, if obliged to stop tide; because, several ships have been obliged to leave their anchors behind, on account of them hooking the rocks.

and through that strait,

When the West part of Battanta is approached, keep within 3 leagues of it in steering to the N. Eastward, with Augusta Island bearing about N. E. by E.; or if Mansfield Island is discernible, and kept on with the South end of Foul Island, you will pass clear to the southward of the shoal patches which border the North side of the channel. Having brought Augusta Island to bear N. by E. about 4 or 5 miles distant, haul more to the northward, to give a birth to the western part, and N.W. angle of Vansittart's Shoal, by passing at a convenient distance of 2 or 3 miles, on the South side of Pigeon Island. Betwixt this island and Vansittart's Shoal, is the narrowest part of the strait, being 2½ or 3 leagues wide; and

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to avoid the edge of the shoal, which is steep to, Foul Island ought not to be approached under 4 miles distance, when it bears between East and S. S. E. When this island is brought to bear S. by E. or South, there are no more soundings: but in steering to the eastward, keep considerably to the northward of a direct line joining Foul Island and Mansfield Island; for that line passes over the North part of Vansittart's Shoal.

BANK OF SHOAL SOUNDINGS, from 6 or 7, to 12 or 14 fathoms, extending 4 or 5 miles to the eastward of Pigeon Island, is very convenient for anchoring upon occasionally to stop tide, or during the night, the bottom consisting of sand and gravel in some places; and on its eastern extremity, where the water deepens, the ground becomes soft. To the S. E. and southward of Pigeon Island, there are soundings of 12 to 15 fathoms coral rock, on some patches; the bottom in general throughout the strait, is rocky, affording very bad anchorage, except in a few parts, it is a little soft, or consisting of sand mixed with shells and coral.

to Point Pigot.

Having passed through the narrow part of the strait, by keeping nearer to Pigeon Island than to Foul Island, when the former bears W. by S., steer a direct course about E. by N. or E. by N. ½ N. for Point Pigot. Several small islands will be discerned near the shore of Waygeeooe, and some inlets or bays, which ought not to be approached too close; for the shoal seen by the Grosvenor, seems to lie at a considerable distance from that shore, and there may be others contiguous to the coast, not yet explored. Point Pigot ought to be passed moderately close, in going out of the strait, to prevent being driven close to the coast of New Guinea by the northerly swell, that generally prevails outside; but care must be taken to give a birth to the Buccleugh's Shoal.

Geo. Site of Point Pigot.

POINT PIGOT, the S. E. extremity of Waygeeooe, in lat. 0° 21′ S., lon. 131° 18′ E. by our chronometers from Batavia, and I made it the same by lunar observations.* is moderately elevated, having two little islands covered with trees, fronting it at a 1½ or 2 miles distance to the southward, one of which is much larger than the other. The channel betwixt this point and the coast of New Guinea, is about 8 leagues wide, and the three different routes, by Dampier's, Pitt's, and Revenge's Straits, are here united into one, leading out into the Pacific Ocean. Ships bound out, take their departure from Point Pigot, and when approaching these straits, they generally endeavour to fall in with this point. The variation off it in 1793, was 1¼° Easterly.

Tides or currents in Dampier's Strait, and in its vicinity.

THE TIDES, in Dampier's Strait, which rise from 10 to 12 feet perpendicularly on the springs; run frequently strong, but are very irregular. Toward the western entrance of this strait, betwixt pulo Popa and Gape Mabo, there is frequently a current setting to the southward during the N.W. monsoon, from September to April; but subject to deviations, from winds or other secondary causes. In the same place, there is generally a N.W. or northerly current, during the southerly or S. E. monsoon; although at times, there is little or no current.

At the eastern entrance of the strait, betwixt Point Pigot and New Guinea, there appears to be a tide running about 12 hours each way; but the ebb that sets out to the eastward, is generally strongest in both monsoons, and has been experienced sometimes in the southerly monsoon, to run out two or three days together, only slacking a little when the flood ought to set to the westward.

Although these easterly tides or currents, are frequently found to set out betwixt Point Pigot and New Guinea, during the S. E. monsoon, this is not always the case; for strong

* This longitude of Point Pigot is probably within 1 or 2 miles of the truth, as Captain Torin, of the Coutts, Captain Seton, of the Helen, and Mr. Stone, of the Asia, all agree in making it in lon. 131° 18′ E. by chronometers; Mr. Brown, made it in lon. 131° 19′ E. by chronometer from Canton, and Captain Williams made it in 131° 17′ E. by the same means.

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N.W. currents, sometimes sweep along the North coast of Waygeeooe, whereby several ships, in March and April, have been drifted between that coast and the Yowl Islands, when baffled by light airs of wind. Others, steering to fall in with Point Pigot, in July or August, have been carried to the northward of the Yowl Islands, and Asia's Islands, by a strong N.W. current.

In the narrow part of Dampier's Strait, bounded by Foul Island and Vansittart's Shoal to the S. Eastward, and by Augusta and Pigeon Islands to the N.W., the tides seem to be very irregular in both monsoons, and run with great velocity about the full and change of the moon. During the strength of the N.W. monsoon, in December, January, and February, the tide to the eastward generally prevails, in duration, and velocity. In this season, the ebb sometimes runs to the E. N. Eastward 6 or 8 hours together, or even longer, from 4 to 5 knots, when strongest in the springs: at other times, it only runs 4 or 5 hours in that direction, from 1 to 3 knots during neap tides. The flood runs to the S. Westward, seldom above 3 or 4 hours; and in this season, it is generally weak.

In this part of the strait, during the strength of the southerly monsoon, from May to September, the flood sets through to the westward, frequently 8 or 10 hours together. At first, it runs about W. S.W., gradually increasing in strength, changing to S. W. or S.W. by S., when strongest; the greatest velocity being about 5 miles per hour, or rather more at times, on high spring tides; and about 4 miles during the neaps. After running strong to the S.W. for a few hours, it abates gradually in strength until it changes and sets to the eastward, from 3 to 5 hours, but seldom strong. The ebb tide, setting through the narrow part of the strait betwixt E. N. E. and N. E., is seldom strong, or of long continuance, in this season; for it often runs only about 1 mile per hour, appearing as a slack between the returns of the strong S. Westerly tide: but at times, the tide to the eastward has been experienced to run for an hour or two, at the rate of 4 knots, even in this season; and both tides, run strongest near the edges of the reefs. On the day of full moon, in July, we found the tide begin to set to the S. Westward at 7 P. M., which continued strong until midnight, the moon being then on the meridian; after midnight, it gradually abated in strength, and at day-light there was no tide.

Pitt's Strait,

PITT'S STRAIT, called SAGEWYN by the Dutch, is bounded on the North side, by the island Battanta; and on the South side, by the North coast of Salawatty, and the group of small islands stretching from thence to the adjacent coast of New Guinea. The West entrance bears about E. by N. ¼ N. from the S. E. point of Pulo Popa, distant 18 or 19 leagues; and the length of the strait, from the West point of Salawatty until clear of the reef off the East point of Battanta, is about 13 or 14 leagues: the greatest breadth is about 7 or 8 miles, and the narrowest part only 4 or 5 miles from side to side.

Ought not to be adopted.

The shore of Salawatty is mostly steep to, and except in some places where rocks line the Battanta shore to the distance of nearly a ¼ mile, it is also bold to approach. But the high land on each side, subject this strait to frequent calms, and the rapid tides in it being attended with strong eddies, ships are thereby rendered ungovernable, and sometimes they are drifted back and forward through the strait, or against its shores. The preference, is therefore, now, justly given to Dampier's Strait, where in the narrowest part, there is anchorage; nor ought Pitt's Strait to be adopted, unless in a case of the greatest necessity.

Watering place on Battanta.

About 2 leagues to the eastward of Cape Mabo, there is said to be a reef near the southern shore of Battanta. The Ponsbourne got water in a small bay farther to the eastward. where she anchored in 45 fathoms dark sand, about ½ a mile off shore; the watering place in the bay then bearing N. 8° W., West extreme of the bay W. 6° S., distant ½ a mile, East point of the bay E. 3° N., with the eastern extremity of the island shut in behind it, West end of Salawatty S. 35° E., and the westernmost of the isles outside of it S. 5° E.

Inside of this strait, there is no anchorage on the Battanta side until near its eastern ex-

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tremity, except too close to the shore for large ships; and a ledge of rocks projects out about a ¼ mile in some places, with 16 or 20 fathoms close, and the next cast upon it from 6 to 8 feet.

Rogewyn Island.

Anchorage close to the Salawatty shore, and fresh water.

REGEWIN, or ROGEWYN ISLAND, situated near the southern shore in the West entrance of the strait, is small, and sometimes called Passage Island. There is a bank of soundings to the eastward of it, with anchorage near the Salawatty shore, where several ships have remained during the night. The Warwick, at anchor in 30 fathoms upon this bank, had Rogewyn Island bearing W. ½ S., about 6 or 7 miles, open with the point of Salawatty about a sail's breadth, a considerable village to the eastward, and a fine fresh water river about ¾ of a mile to the westward of the anchorage, with three small streams adjoining. Betwixt it and the village, 25 fathoms water are found about ½ a mile from the shore.

The Lord Holland anchored farther to the eastward, in 58 fathoms fine gravel and small shells, about ¼ mile off shore, and 2½ miles inside of the 3d point of Salawatty, counting from the East end of the strait: Jackson's Island was then on with the eastern extreme of Salawatty bearing E. 4° N., extreme of New Guinea E. 20° N., and Battanta from N. 32° E. to West. The cutter, a little farther to the westward, got 40 fathoms, decreasing regularly to 8 or 7 fathoms close to the rocky shore; and the officer found a stream of good water, convenient for watering a ship. Farther to the eastward, the Salawatty shore becomes very steep; and Jackson's Island is of considerable height, at some views resembling a spoon, and is situated near the N. E. point of Salawatty, at the entrance of the strait, in coming from the eastward. July 9th, 1813, the Volunteer anchored in 33 fathoms, to the East of Regewin Island, and carried a hawser to the trees to steady the ship, which was slipped at the turn of the tide, to prevent the ship from swinging on shore. The Volunteer, also anchored, July 7th, in 27 fathoms fine black sand, with Jackson's or Lipel Island bearing N.W., distant ¾ mile. Between the 4th and 5th points of Salawatty, counting from Jackson's Island, there is a bay about 1½ mile deep, with soundings of 32 fathoms within the line of the two heads which form it; and not less than 30 fathoms sandy bottom, within ½ a mile of the bottom of the bay. Captain Waterman, of the Volunteer, while sounding this bay, saw several places like runs of fresh water on the shore, and although the tide was running 4 miles per hour outside, he perceived neither tide or eddies within the heads of the bay; but the ship was carried close to the 5th point by the tide, and brought up about 20 feet clear of the rocks which project from that point.

Anchorage near the East end of Battanta.

There is a deep bay on the South side of Battanta, near the East end of the strait, with an island in its entrance; and close to the East part of this island, stands a rock, with some bushes on it, where a ship may anchor occasionally, with the rock bearing about North, distant 1 mile. There seems to be a considerable passage to the eastward of the island, leading into the bay, which may probably form a good harbour, and there appears to be a town at the bottom of it. The Glatton anchored near this place in 38 fathoms fine brown sand, the North end of Jackson's Island bearing E. by S. ¼ S., eastern extreme of Salawatty E. S. E. Easterly, West point of Regewyn Island W. S. W., southernmost point of Battanta W. by S. ½ S., easternmost point of Battanta N. by E. ½ E., off the Battanta shore 2 miles.

Bank of soundings in the eastern part of Pitt's Strait.

Betwixt the East end of Battanta and the first point to the westward, there is a bay filled with small islands; and a bank of soundings extends from thence about 3½ leagues to the eastward, with overfalls and generally rocky bottom on it, the water deepening fast on its southern part, but the North side of it is dangerous.

Reef off the East end of Battanta.

BATTANTA REEF, or ROCKY SHOAL, extending nearly 3 leagues East from the East end of Battanta, forms the northern side of the bank of soundings mentioned above, and it is composed of patches of rocks having only 3 and 3½ fathoms on some of them. The Pigot, when aground on one of these patches, had Jackson's Island bearing S. ¾ W., eastern

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extreme of Battanta West a little southerly, and its western extreme on with Salawatty S.W. by W., northern extreme of New Guinea East northerly, off Battanta about 2 leagues. The Glatton in 6 fathoms rocks, had Jackson's Island bearing S. by E. ¾ E., Battanta from W. ¾ N. to S.W. ¾ W.; standing from hence N. E. by E. 1½ mile, deepened fast to 32 fathoms, Jackson's Island then S. by E. ¼ E., Battanta from W. ¼ N. to S.W. ¾ W. The Thames, after discerning the rocks under her bottom, hauled off, and anchored in 17 fathoms, but swung into 10 fathoms coral rock, the East point of Battauta bearing W. by N., Pitt's Strait S. W. by W., and Jackson's Island S. 6° E. The boats found the soundings very irregular, till they got, 6, 5, 4, and 3½ fathoms on the rocks about 1 mile West from the ship, with 6 and 8 fathoms around them. The Buccleugh, in company with the Thames, anchored the same day, February 14th, 1797, in 15 fathoms coral and sand, with Jackson's Island bearing S. 15° E., and the East point of Battanta W. ¾ N., off shore about 4 miles; the boat found only 3 fathoms coral rock, about ¾ of a mile N. by W. from the ship.

How to pass clear of it.

The bank of soundings, lining the South side of Battanta Reef, extends about 3 leagues nearly E. N. E. and W. S.W., or with Jackson's Island bearing between S. E. and S. by W. Although ships may anchor occasionally on its southern part, in from 20 to 30 fathoms to stop tide, they ought not to borrow over toward the dangerous spots on its northern side, nor bring the East point of Battanta to bear so far to the westward as W. by N., until they lose soundings on the eastern extremity of the bank. The tides being strong, and the bottom generally foul, render the anchorage on this bank disagreeable; particularly in the northerly monsoon, when a swell rolls in over it from the N. Eastward.

Pitt's Strait, perplexing and dangerous.

Pitt's Strait ought only to be adopted in a case of particular necessity. The Thames, in company with the fleet, consisting of six ships, bound from Europe to China, passed through Pitt's Strait, February 14th, 1797: they entered in the evening with a light westerly breeze, followed by a calm in the night, and the tide having set almost in every direction during the night, some of the ships were drifted out, and into the strait again, before morning. About sun-rise, the tide set rapidly to the eastward, with strong eddies, and at 8 A. M. it changed, and set with equal violence to the westward: some of the ships at this time, were near the Salawatty shore, in the eastern entrance of the strait, and the swell and tide setting toward that shore, the Thames had great difficulty in clearing it, with three boats towing her head off shore, and a faint breeze from the eastward. The Walmer Castle, when close to the Thames, was taken by a strong eddy upon the bow, which set her directly on the Salawatty shore, where she had 3 fathoms on one side and 30 fathoms on the other. After being driven along the steep bank some time, breaking the boughs of the trees with her yards, she got clear without damage, with the assistance of a light air that came off the land, and the boats of the fleet towing.

Shortly after, the Canton and Taunton Castle, were drifted about in Pitt's Strait, February 23d and 24th, 1797, sometimes from one end to the other. The Canton was at one time drifted within a cable's length of the Battanta shore, in 40 fathoms water; at another time, within two cable's lengths of the Salawatty shore, and had no ground 120 fathoms. After getting to the East end of the strait, they were drifted out of it again to the westward, then proceeded round the West end of Battanta, and passed through Dampier's Strait. Other ships, have at various times, been drifted about in Pitt's Strait, by the strong eddies, were in danger of getting on the rocks, and after considerable delay, have proceeded through Dampier's Strait. The Volunteer, entered Pitt's Strait, bound to the westward, July 7th, 1813, and after being obliged to anchor twice, in dangerous situations, close to the Salawatty shore, where she lay during a squally dark night, and was driven backward and forward by the tides when under sail in the day time, got clear out of the strait on the 9th; and Capt. Waterman, of that ship observes, "that nothing will ever induce him to go through Pitt's Strait again.". It, however, sometimes may happen, that a ship entering Pitt's Strait with a steady

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breeze, and the beginning of a favorable tide, will get speedily through; but as these instances are rare, it should be avoided if possible.

Caution to be observed in sailing through it.

If obliged to pursue the route through Pitt's Strait, keep as nearly as possible in mid-channel, that the eddies may be less liable to drift you close to either shore: be not induced by any favorable shift of wind, to approach the shore, but continue to make short tacks in the middle of the strait. When Jackson's Island is seen, steer to pass to the northward of it, at not more than 4 or 5 miles distance, to avoid the reef off the East end of Battanta; which having cleared, haul to the northward near Point Pigot, because several ships after passing out of these straits, have been embarrassed with the coast of New Guinea.

Galowa Strait.

GALOWA STRAIT, formed betwixt the Island Salawatty and the coast of New Guinea, is generally called Revenge's, or Watson's Strait, because Commodore Watson, in the Revenge frigate, went through it in 1764. Lieut. M'Cleur, went through it with the Panther and Endeavour, when surveying the coast of New Guinea in 1790; but it is contracted in several parts by numerous small islands and shoals, and being out of the direct route of ships proceeding to, or from the Pitt's Passage, it is properly avoided by merchant ships. At the North part of it, a chain of islands stretches from Jackson's Island (the nearest to the N. E. part of Salawatty), across to Cape Spencer, the opposite point of land on New Guinea. There are soundings of various depths through this strait, and amongst the islands in its northern entrance, with anchorage in many places; but Jackson's Island has deep water very near it on the North side, and there is said to be some shoals to the southward, with anchorage inside of it, near the Salawatty shore.

Cape Spencer, called Foul Point by the Dutch, is moderately elevated; and reefs project to the N. Westward from it and the adjoining islands, to the distance of 1½ or 2 miles.

INSTRUCTIONS for SAILING from DAMPIER'S STRAIT toward CHINA COASTS, ISLANDS, and DANGERS, adjacent to the PASSAGE.

Caution requisite in sailing out of Dampier's Strait.

SHIPS proceeding out of Dampier's Strait into the Pacific Ocean, in December and January, when northerly winds are liable to blow in sudden squalls outside, with a heavy swell rolling in upon the coast of New Guinea, ought to be careful to keep well up toward Point Pigot, and pass within 2 or 3 miles of the small islands that front it; they ought then to haul well up to the N. Eastward if the wind admit, to avoid the coast of New Guinea; but care must be taken to keep the small island off Point Pigot, or that point itself, to the westward of W. 30° S. until it or the point is sunk from the deck of a large ship, in order to give a birth to the Buccleugh's Shoal, described under the head "Gillolo Passage."

January 4th, 1806, the Mangles, in going out of the strait, passed Point Pigot at 5 leagues distance, then encountered severe squalls at N. Westward, with torrents of rain, and intervening calms. The sudden heavy gusts of wind, not permitting them to carry sail sufficient to keep the ship close to the wind, she was driven by the heavy swell on the beam, within a few miles of high breakers on the coast of New Guinea.

Finding they could not clear the coast on either tack, and the ship drifting at the rate of 1 mile per hour toward the breakers, the anchors were prepared to let go, although not in soundings. Fortunately at 5 P. M., January 6th, a steady breeze came at W. N. W., with which a press of sail was carried, steering N. E. by N. during the night; notwithstanding, in the

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morning, it was perceived, that they had weathered the Islands Middleburgh and Amsterdam, not more than 5 or 6 miles.

The Lord North, was from the 12th to the 17th of December, 1781, from Point Pigot until she got clear of the coast of New Guinea; being baffled with northerly winds, much rain, and a heavy swell from N. N. Eastward.

North coast of New Guinea.

COAST OF NEW GUINEA, from Cape Spencer, stretches about E. N. E. toward the Cape of Good Hope, forming a concavity, with some small bays; and several villages of the native Papuas, are interspersed along the shore. The North coast of New Guinea, is generally high, but in some places low land fronts the sea: a little way inland, a chain of mountains extends parallel to the coast, which is covered with trees, and elevated in some places, from 4000 to 5000 feet above the level of the sea.

Threshold Point, and adjacent coast

THRESHOLD POINT, about 6 leagues to the eastward of Cape Spencer, has a deep bay on the East side of it, filled with reefs, which surround a small island, and there is low land at the bottom of the bay;* the coast betwixt these head-lands, being lined by steep rocky shoals, ought not to be approached.

From Threshold Bay eastward, there are soundings from 20 to 60 fathoms in many places, within 1 or 2 miles of the shore; but in some parts, reefs project to the distance of 2 or 3 miles.

Cape Wilson, and the coast eastward.

BREBES POINT, or CAPE WILSON, in about lat. 0° 29′ S., and 5 leagues to the S. Westward of Middleburgh Island, has a small bay on the East side, with from 10 to 30 fathoms water in it, and reefs on each side of the entrance. Betwixt the reef projecting around Cape Wilson, and another reef about a league off shore, there appear to be 12 and 13 fathoms water, with 30 or 40 fathoms close to the outer reefs. From hence, nearly to Middleburgh Island, the coast is steep, having from 60 to 80 fathoms water near the shore.

Geo. Site of Amsterdam Island.

Middleburgh Island.

AMSTERDAM AND MIDDLEBURGH, are two low flat islands surrounded by a reef, bearing N. W. and S. E. from each other, distant about a mile. Amsterdam, the outermost, is in lat. 0° 19½′ S., lon. 132° 15′ E. by chronometer from Point Pigot, bearing nearly West from the Cape of Good Hope, distant about 5 leagues, and from the coast abreast about 2 or 2½ leagues. The reef projecting from this island is steep to, having 50 fathoms water near, and 4 or 5 feet upon it in some places. The Geelvink, found soundings of 8 and 10 fathoms betwixt the shore and Middleburgh Island, with anchorage to the S. S. W.; and to the eastward betwixt it and the Cape of Good Hope, soundings of 15 to 40 fathoms, sandy bottom, extend about 3 or 4 miles out from the coast, where a ship might anchor in a case of necessity.

Geo. Site of Cape of Good Hope; adjoining coast.

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, in lat. 0° 20′ S., lon. 132° 31′ E., or 1° 13′ E. from Point Pigot by chronometer, is a low rugged point of whitish appearance; and nearly East from it 4 or 5 leagues, lies Tuft Point, which is sometimes mistaken for the former. This is the northernmost part of the coast of New Guinea, and there are soundings near it; but farther to the eastward, it becomes steep to, in most places. In the bay on the East side of Tuft Point, there are some shoals; and another shoal lies about 13 leagues to the eastward, in a bay to the westward of the Bee-Hive Mount, which is situated near the sea, and resembles a bee-hive or hay-stack.

* The Dutch charts of the Geelvink's voyage, place anchorage to the eastward of the shoals in this bay, opposite to a high point, where there is fresh water.

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Geelvink's Bay.

GEELVINK'S BAY, about 3½ leagues to the eastward of the Bee-Hive, has rocks on each side of the entrance, with a small islet on the West side, environed by a reef. There are 20 and 25 fathoms water in this bay, where the Geelvink anchored in 1705, and procured wood and water, on the western shore, inside: it stretches a considerable way inland, where it becomes very narrow, and terminates at a fresh water river; the land on the East side of this bay, is low contiguous to the sea.

Geo. Site of Flat Point.

Great Bay.

FLAT POINT, in about lat. 0° 46′ S., lon. 134° 25′ E., bearing from the Cape of Good Hope about E. 13° S., distant 39 leagues, forms the western extremity of the great bay on the North side of New Guinea, which extends inland about 60 leagues, nearly to the South coast; and with McCluer's Inlet, stretching from the West coast nearly to the western side of this great bay, the large island of New Guinea is almost cut into three islands. About 5 miles inside of Flat Point, Dory Harbour is situated, having two islands in the offing, and a bank of coral rocks fronting the entrance, with the high mountains of Arfak inland to the westward. In the great bay, there are many islands and shoals, with soundings in general near its shores, which are intersected by other bays, in several places. The Geelvink circumnavigated this spacious bay, and watered at its southern extremity.

Mysory and other Islands.

MYSORY, or SCHOUTEN'S ISLAND, bounding the entrance of the Great Bay on the East side, is high, about 20 leagues in extent W. N. W. and E. S. E., its northern extremity being in lat. 0° 37′ S., and its western part, is distant about 20 leagues, nearly East from Flat Point. Long Island lies between them, a little inside of the entrance of the bay; and Traitor's Islands, form a large range, projecting from the S. E. point of Mysory, the innermost of which are surrounded by a reef.

There is a FIVE FATHOM'S BANK, to the northward of Mysory, extending about 3½ miles upon the equator; with the Island Mysory just in sight from the deck bearing South, Capt. Eastwick had soundings of 5 fathoms the least water on this bank, and made its extent as stated above.

Jobie.

JOBIE, is a high island of great extent East and West, with other islands contiguous; these front Mysory and Traitor's Islands, to the southward, and there is a wide channel between them.

Capt. Bristow, in a southern whaler, touched at Jobie, some years ago, where he lay about 14 days, and put a streak of new copper on his ship; during which time, for mere trifles, he procured some poultry, plenty of yams, and all sorts of tropical fruits. Nevertheless, it is prudent for every ship which may have occasion to stop at any part of the circuitous coasts of New Guinea, to be constantly guarded against the perfidy of the natives, who are in a state of savage ignorance.

There is a passage betwixt the East end of Jobie, and Geelvink's Point opposite on New Guinea, leading into the great bay, which is called the South Passage: a reef projects from Geelvink's Point, but there are regular soundings and good anchorage inside of it, which extend from thence, along the whole of the eastern side of this remarkable bay.

Stephen's Islands

About 24 leagues to the E. N. E. of Mysory, in lat. 0° 21′ S., lie two small isles, which Captain Carteret named STEPHEN'S ISLANDS, when he saw them in 1767.

Providence Islands

PROVIDENCE ISLANDS, two in number, situated to the N. Westward of Mysory, and fronting the North entrance of the great bay, have a channel about 4 or 5 leagues wide between them, through which Dampier passed twice. The S. Easternmost, called Great Providence Island, is largest; the other being a low sandy isle covered with trees, and surrounded by rocks.

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Geo. Site.

Geo. Site of Cornwallis Shoad.

This, called Little Providence, or Danger Island, is situated in lat. 0° 11′ S., lon. 135° 12′ E.; a coral shoal projects from it to the southward about ½ a mile, and stretches to the N. W. in the form of a half moon, to the distance of 3 or 3½ leagues from the island. The Cornwallis got on the edge of this shoal with the island bearing S. S. E., distant 1½ mile, and tacked when the rocks were seen along side, but there seemed to be about 8 fathoms water. The form and extent of the shoal, were clearly discerned from the mast-head, on the middle of which, the sea broke; and on its northern extremity, the water appeared like a confused strong rippling. The N. Western extremity of this shoal is in lat. 0° 1′ S., lon. 135° 8½′ E.; and to avoid it, ships coming from the eastward, should keep in lat. 0° 10′ to 0° 20′ N.

These islands are rather out of the track of ships, proceeding to, or coming from China, by the eastern passage; but the islands and dangers now to be described, lie near the common route, and are frequently seen.

Geo. Site of St. David's Island.

ST. DAVID'S, or FREEWILL ISLANDS (the body), in lat. 0° 55′ N., lon. 134° 21½′ E. by mean of nine ships' chronometers and lunars, nearly corresponding, form a close group, four in number, North, South, East, and West Islands, with an islet betwixt North and East Islands. They were seen by the Warwick in 1761, by the Swallow in 1769, and recently by several ships. South Island is 3 or 4 miles in length, but it is very narrow in an East and West direction, and they all appear as one island in some views. They have a level appearance, are covered with tall cocoa-nut trees, may be seen about 5 leagues from the deck, and although small, are well inhabited. These people seem to subsist chiefly upon fish and cocoanuts, and will come off in their canoes, to ships that lay by, near the islands. The Mangles, January 8th, 1806, passed within ½ a mile of the reef, on the East side of them, and found it encircled the group, projecting about a mile from the North and South extremes, but not so far to the East and westward; on the East side of South Island, it projects only about a cable's length, and has no soundings close to. The whole extent of this group is from lat. 0° 49′ N. to lat. 1° 2′ N., and from lon. 134° 17′ to 134° 30′ E.

Capt. Tate, of the Cumbrian, made the body of the group in lat. 0° 55′ N, lon. 134° 21½′ E., corresponding with the mean of nine ships observations, and he made the easternmost island 3° 10′ E. from the N. E. Yowl Island by chronometer.

Geo. Site of Helen's Shoal.

HELEN'S SHOAL, in lat. 2° 50′ N., lon. 131° 40¾′ E., or 22¾ miles East of Point Pigot by chronometers, the body or South part, as determined by Captain Seton of the Helen, April 5th, 1794, is probably the same shoal that was seen by Captain Carteret, of H. M. S. Swallow, in 1767. From the Asia's Islands, its southern extremity bears N. by E., distant 36 leagues.

The Ganges, and Canada in company, at mid-night, September 10th, 1802, got close to the West side of this shoal; and must have inevitably got upon it, had not the moon shone bright at the time. In waring round, the Ganges was within twice her length of the breakers, and the Canada nearly tailed upon them. They stood off until day-light, then tacked to to the southward with the wind at W. S.W., but finding at 9 A. M. that they could not weather the S. W. extremity of the shoal, they bore away along the West side of it to the N. Eastward, and found it extend about 15 miles nearly N. E. and S. W., and 1 or 2 miles in breadth. It is broadest at the southern part, where it stretches about East and E. N. E. to a considerable distance, then turning more to the northward, forms a curve, with the concave side to the N. Westward, and appears to be steep to. The sea generally breaks high upon this dangerous shoal, which consists of rocks under and above water, none of them elevated more than 4 or 5 feet from the surface. About 4 miles from the northern extremity there was a dry sand bank, with the appearance of a wreck upon it, when these ships passed;

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and many pieces of drift wood on the shoal, resembled black rocks. This shoal, was also seen by Captain Hanson, of the Swedish Company's ship Wasa, on his passage to China in 1804, who made it in lat. 2° 50′ N., lon. 131° 40′ E. by chronometers.*

Geo. Site of Lord North's Island.

LORD NORTH'S ISLAND, is in lat. 3° 2¾′ N., lon. 131° 20′ E., by mean of six ships' lunar observations, but Captain Seton made it 13¾ miles West from Point Pigot by chronometer, which would place it in lon. 131° 4¼′ E.: until it was seen by the ship Lord North, July 14th, 1782, it seems not to have been known, but it was afterward seen by the Raymond, Asia, and Montrose, January 1st, 1789; by Captain Seton of the Helen, in April, 1794, and it has since been seen by several other ships. It is small, low, and woody, about 1 or 1½ mile in extent E. S. E. and W. N. W., and seems to have a reef projecting from the East end, but is otherwise apparently safe to approach, and may be seen 4 or 4½ leagues from the deck of a large ship: there is a remarkable tree on the centre of the island, which is first discernible, and makes like a sail. This small island is inhabited, and they have canoes carrying six or eight men, which will sometimes come off to ships passing near.

The Helen's chronometer made it bear W. 15° N. distant 13 leagues from the southern extremity of Helen's Shoal, and it appears to bear about West from the North end of that shoal. This ship's longitude of the island, 131° 4¼′ E., is probably nearest the truth; the Dorsetshire, in 1812, made it in lat. 3° 2′ N., lon. 131° 10′ E. by lunar observations.

Geo. site of Meriere.

MERIERE, or MARIERE, is in lat. 4° 19½′ N., lon. 132° 28¼′ E. by mean of ten ships' observations and chronometers, which is probably near the truth, as the Asia's chronometers, in 1805, made it also in lon. 132° 28′ E., measured from Canton; and seventeen days after, she made Point Pigot in lon. 131° 18′ E., or 70 miles West of Meriere by two chronometers agreeing with each other. It was discovered, in 1710, by the Spaniards, is about 1½ or 2 miles in extent North and South, and 1, or ¾ mile in breadth; it is rather higher in the central and southern parts, than at the North end, where there are many cocoa-nut trees. It may be discerned about 4 or 4½ leagues from the deck, seems to be clear of danger, and has been frequently seen by English ships, on their route to, or from China, by the eastern passage. The inhabitants seem to subsist chiefly on fish, and they sometimes come off to ships in their canoes, having nothing to barter except fishing lines.

Geo. Site of Current Island.

CURRENT ISLAND, or PULO ANNA, in lat. 4° 38½′ N., lon. 132° 3½′ E. by mean of ten ships' observations and chronometers, bearing from Meriere N. 52° W. distant 10½ leagues, appears to be only about ½ a mile in extent, covered with trees; and although very small, and low, it is well inhabited. It may be seen about 4 leagues from the deck, and a reef is said to project about a mile from its North and South extremities. This small isle, was seen by the Carnarvon, Warwick, and Princess Augusta, returning from China in 1761; and it is now, frequently seen by British ships.

Geo. Site of St. Andrew Islands.

ST. ANDREW ISLANDS, in lat. 5° 20′ N., lon. 132° 16′ E. by mean of eight ships' chronometers and observations, or 13 miles East of Current Island by the Asia's chronometers, are two in number, bearing from Current Island N. 16° E., distant 14½ leagues;† they are small, low, and level, covered with trees, and may be discerned about 4, or 4½ leagues

* The Ganges and Canada, made the northern extremity of the shoal in lat. 3° 0′ N., lon. 131° 28½′ E. by ; the Dorsetshire, February 5th, 1812, saw this shoal, and made it in lat. 2° 53′ N., lon.131° 52′ E. by lunar observation, the mean of these would give lon. 131° 40¾′ E. for the situation of the shoal; agreeing with Capt. Seton's chronometers from Point Pigot.

† These islands were discovered by the Spaniards in 1710; the Ponsborne saw them in 1769, and made their lat. 5° 22′ N. Lieut. M'Cluer, who resided some years on the Pellew Islands, states, that the inhabitants of St. Andrew Islands, go from thence in their canoes to the former islands.

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from the deck. The southernmost, called Codocopuei, is much larger than the other, which is situated about 1½ or 2 miles to the N. N. Eastward, and called Sonrol. They seem to be connected, and surrounded by a reef, which is said to project only to a small distance, and is steep to.

Pellew Islands.

PELLEW, PEELOO, or PALAOS, consisting of a chain of islands of various sizes, completely encircled by reefs, extend nearly N. N. E. and S. S. W. about 29 leagues. The islands are not more than 5 leagues wide in any part, but including the great reef that fronts the western side of the chain at the distance of 4 or 5 leagues, the extreme breadth in the central part is about 10 leagues, converging greatly toward each extremity.

Baubelthouap and adjacent Islands.

BAUBELTHOUAP, forming the N. E. part of the chain, is much larger than any of the other islands, being about 8 leagues in length; and on its western side, there is a high hill, from the summit of which, Lieut. M'Cluer saw both the extremities of the chain.

Corror.

Most of the other islands are rather low, but cultivated, and inhabited. CORROR, situated close to the southward of Baubelthouap, is interspersed with many villages; here, Abba Thulle resided some years ago, whose authority was acknowledged by the inhabitants of the other islands. URUKTHAPEL, is the most considerable island to the southward, and ERAKONG lies close to the southward of it. Fronting the high bluff East point of Urukthapel, there is a large opening in the reef, with anchorage and good soundings, in about lat. 7° 16′ N., having a small channel to the N. W. with 7 and 8 fathoms, through the middle of the reef inside, betwixt that island and Corror. When within the opening of the outer reef, another branch of the channel stretches along the East side of Corror to the N. E. where there is good shelter inside of the reef; and this channel, leads round the East and North sides of Corror, to the western point of the island, with soundings in it from 10 to 25 fathoms.

Erakong Harbour.

ERAKONG HARBOUR, situated on the East side of the island of this name, is sheltered by the outer reef, the entrance to it being in lat. 7° 13′ to 14′ N., through an opening of the reef to the southward of that mentioned above; and having soundings of 7 to 10 fathoms at the entrance, deepening a little inside.

There is another small channel of 8 and 9 fathoms, in lat. 7° 8′ N., leading from the S. E. close round the North side of the first small island to the southward of Erakong. A ship might probably, in a case of necessity, with a northerly wind, proceed into Corror, or Erakong Harbour, where she could be supplied with water and refreshments;* but the survey of these islands made in 1793–4, is not sufficiently explicit to afford proper directions for sailing into the harbours, and it would be imprudent to approach them with a S. E. or easterly wind, when the reefs become a lee shore. There are one or two channels through the great reef on the West side of the islands, navigable for small vessels; but large ships ought not to approach them on this side.

Pillilew

PILLILEW, situated about 3 leagues to the S. W. of Erakong, is a fertile and well cultivated island, about 2½ leagues in length, having a range of small isles stretching to the North, and to the N. E. betwixt it and Erakong.

* The natives of the Pellew Islands used formerly to be hospitable to Europeans, but it seems now necessary, to guard against treachery, if any ship touch at these islands, for the Syren Whaler, Capt. Coffin, March 31st. 1823, was nearly cut off when passing the southernmost island. About 30 large sailing canoes, with from six to ten men in each, came off to this ship, and about 100 men soon came on board in a friendly manner, but a ring watched an opportunity when few of the Syren's crew were prepared, they were attacked suddenly by the islanders, but after desperate fighting, the latter were driven from the deck, although not till most of the hip's crew, 37 in number, were wounded, and two of the petty officers killed.

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The, great reef is dry in many places at low water, and begins at the S. W. point of Pillilew, extending nearly North about 12 leagues, and then converges to the N. E. toward the northern extremity of the islands. On the eastern side of the chain, the reef seldom projects above 4 or 5 miles from the shore.

Angour or S. W. Island.

ANGOUR, the S. Westernmost island, is low, about 3 or 4 miles in length N. E. and S. W., having apparently a safe channel about 4 miles wide, betwixt it and the South point of Pillilew; but these islands are steep to, without soundings. Lieut. M'Cluer, places a rocky bank of 10 fathoms, about 1½ mile West from the S. W. point of Angour. The Mangles passed within 3 miles of it in 1806, and observed a reef projecting about ½ a mile from the low sandy point. In the same year, the Anna returning from China, made a tack or two with a westerly wind to weather the point; and in passing it at the distance of 1 mile, no reef could be perceived, although the surf was beating high against the shore.

To sail from it to the northward.

When a ship is 3 or 4 miles off the West side of Angour, with an easterly wind, a N. by E. course will carry her clear off the western verge of the great reef, if there be no lateral current. Amongst the islands, there are regular tides setting East and West, except when strong winds counteract them, and produce a current; the rise of the tide is from 6 to 8 feet at full and change of the moon.

Geo. Site of the Pellew Islands.

The S. W. end of Angour, or southern limit of the Pellew Islands, is in lat. 6° 53½′ N., lon. 134° 21′ E. by mean of eleven ships' observations and chronometers.

The East point of the large Island Baubelthouap, forming the eastern limit of the chain, is in lat. 7° 41′ N., lon. 134° 55′ E. The northern limit, consists of a group of four small low isles, about 6 leagues distant from the North end of Baubelthouap; and KYANGLE, the northernmost and largest of these isles, is in lat. 8° 8½′ N., lon. 134° 50′ E. by lunar observations, corresponding with its relative position from the S. W. extremity of the chain, as shewn by Lieut. M'Cluer's survey.

The N. Westernmost danger, is a large reef partly dry, in lat. 8° 18′ N., distant about 4 leagues to the N. W. of Kyangle. The Kyangle Group is surrounded by a reef, betwixt which and Kossall, which is a large dry reef to the southward, there is a channel about 2 miles wide, with irregular soundings of 40 to 10 fathoms, over the coral bank. Betwixt the South end of Kossall Reef, and that projecting from the North end of Baubelthouap, there is another channel in lat. 7° 56′ N., with irregular soundings on the coral bank, from 10 to 30 fathoms; and a patch of high breakers on the western edge of the bank, about 2 leagues to the westward of Kossall. It would not, however, be prudent to proceed through any of these channels in a large ship, until they are better examined.

Islands Matelotas.

MATELOTAS, are the westernmost of the extensive chain of islands called Carolina's, Claude which stretch nearly East through the middle of the Pacific Ocean, chiefly betwixt the parallels of lat. 7° to 10° N. These islands bear from the northern extremity of the Pellew Chain E. 4° N., distant about 58 leagues, and are sometimes seen by ships which keep far to the eastward on their passage to China.

They are small, low, covered with trees, and the inhabitants come off in their canoes at times, to ships passing near, bringing with them cocoa-nuts, smoked fish, and pieces of cloth of their own manufacture. The southernmost island, seems safe to approach on the South side: but dangerous shoals stretch from it in a northerly and N. W. direction around the other islands, also betwixt it and the two northern islands, which are connected and surrounded by reefs. With the wind at S. Eastward, the Duckingfield-Hall, got close to the East side of these islands, in the night, January 22d, 1798, and had soundings from 20 to 35 fathoms coral rock. She made one or two tacks before day-light, mostly in soundings of 20 to 30 fathoms, but could not clear the islands, because the tide or current set strong to the westward. At 7 A. M. it turned, and set to the eastward with strong ripplings; shortly

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after, when the southern island bore S. 10° W., and the two northern islands bore N. 10° E., and W. by S. ½ S., the depth decreased suddenly to 11, next cast to 5 fathoms. She then tacked to the N. N. E. and immediately deepened; afterward, passed over two small patches of 5 fathoms, and rounded the southernmost island at past 11 A. M. At noon, observed lat. 8° 15½′ N., lon. 137° 44′ E. by chronometer, the southernmost island bearing North, distant about 4 miles, the other islands N. N. W. and N. 31° W.

The two northern islands bear N. E. ¾ E. and S. W. ¾ W. of each other, and are very dangerous to approach in the night; for a coral reef projects about 2 leagues to the northward of the N. E. island, with high breakers on it in some places. The Washington, American ship, passed on the East side of this reef and the islands, November 23d, 1804, with a strong westerly wind.

The Althea, bound from China to Bengal, passed also to the eastward of these islands, July 20th, 1806, having been carried thus far to the eastward by S. W. winds and easterly currents; but if the wind admit, it is best to pass to the westward of them.

Geo. Site.

By mean of the observations of these ships, and their chronometers, the southernmost island is in lat. 8° 21′ N., lon. 137° 44½ E., and the N. Easternmost island in lat. 8° 34½′ N., lon. 137° 44¾′ E. Admiral Rainer, in H. M. S. Suffolk, passed near these islands, December 15th, 1796, and made the southernmost island in lat. 8° 17′ N., lon. 137° 34′ E., and the N. Easternmost island in lat. 8° 35′ N., lon. 137° 40′ E., by many lunar observations corresponding within 1 mile of the longitude by chronometers.

Yap.

YAP, or UNAWB, bearing from the Matelotas Islands N. 19° E. distant 21 leagues, is the westernmost large island of the Carolina Archipelago. Several ships have fallen in with it, when proceeding by the eastern passage to China, although it is situated to the eastward of the common track.

The South end of this island is very low, rising gradually into hills to the northward, and in many parts, it is luxuriant, abounding with cocoa-nut trees, but not covered with wood. When first seen, the hills give it the appearance of two or three islands; and on a near approach, it seems to consist of a group of islands contiguous to each other, the whole encompassed by a chain of black rocks. The reef lining the South and western parts, is very dangerous to approach in the night, for it extends in a W. S. W. direction from the S. W. end of the island about 2 leagues distance, is steep to, and very narrow toward its extremity, with some of the tops of the black rocks upon it, just appearing above water.

The Exeter, with the Hawke, and Henry Dundas in company, December 15th, 1793, saw a fire a-head at 5 A. M. and instantly tacked to the southward. Shortly after, at day-light, the Island Yap bore from North to N. E. distant 4 or 5 miles, and breakers on the reef N. W. by N. about 3 or 4 miles. The wind being westerly, with squalls and rain, they were employed during this and the following day, working round to the westward of the island, which they cleared on the 16th at noon. The Swallow Packet passed near this island, March 18th, 1801, and the people which came off in canoes, frequently pronounced the word yap. The Halcyon, and Venus, American vessels, bound to Kamschatka, and to the N. W. coast of America, saw the Island Yap bearing North at 4 A. M., May 16th, 1792 At day-light, they steered along the S. W. side of the island within a ¼ and ½ mile of the reef, then hove to, for many canoes that were coming off; some of which had 15 or 16 men in them, and were exactly similar to the Flying Proa of the Marian Islands. The chief articles brought off by these people, were cocoa-nuts, hooks, and fishing-lines, some flying fish, tarro, pieces of mat-cloth, and spears. They were in every respect like the natives of the Pellew Islands, stout and regularly formed, and seemed to understand the Pellew Vocabulary.

The island has a pleasing aspect, being interspersed with many houses, well constructed, in the same manner as those of the Pellew Islands; and there seems to be a large village to

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the S. Eastward of the reef. By mean of the observations of six ships by and chronometer, the South end of the island is in lat. 9° 30½′ N., lon. 138° 8′ E., their longitude corresponding within 2 miles of each other, and its northern extremity is in lat. 9° 40′ N.

By these observations, the body of the island seems to be in lat. 9° 35½′ N., lon. 138° 8′ East, extending nearly North and South about 3½ leagues. Some observations of taken in the Hawke, made it 6½ leagues more to the westward; but those of that correct navigator, Capt. Lestock Wilson of the Exeter, exactly corresponding with others taken in the Swallow, are probably nearest the truth.

Islands seen by Captain Hunter.

Coral Bank to the northward.

The islands seen by Capt. John Hunter, July 17th, 1791, returning from Port Jackson, in the Waezamheydt, were probably no other than Yap, which he places from lat. 9° 31′ 9° 37′ N., lon. 137° 32′ E.; but as he passed them at the distance of 7 leagues to the eastward, his longitude may be liable to error; particularly as it is uncertain, whether or not he got any observations at the time. About 7 leagues N. by E. a little easterly from the islands, the Waezamheydt passed over a narrow coral spit extending nearly North and South, on which she had 16 fathoms water, and saw the rocks under the bottom, at that time being in lat. 9° 57½′ N.

Marian Islands.

Guam.

MARIAN, or MARIANES ISLANDS, called also Ladrone Islands, are situated to the northward of the Carolina Archipelago, and belong to the Spaniards; they extend in a N. N. E. direction forming a chain, nearly from lat. 13° to 21° N., having good channels between some of them. GUAHAN, or GUAM, the southernmost and largest of these islands, is about 12 leagues in length N. E. and S. W., having the Port of Apra on the West side, formed betwixt a peninsula and a large reef that fronts it to the northward. Umatac Bay, at the S. W. part of the island, also affords shelter with the wind between N. and S. E., the anchorage being in 10 to 15 fathoms sand, off the mouth of the harbour, with the fort bearing about N. E. by E., distant ¼ or ½ a mile. This bay was surveyed by Admiral Malespina, who made the fort in lat. 13° 21½′ N., lon. 144° 19¾′ E. of Greenwich, by astronomical observations. The town is of considerable size, and the Galleons used to touch here for refreshments, on their passage from Acapulco toward Manilla. This island is moderately elevated, lined by reefs to the southward, with the shoal of Antury about 3 or 4 leagues off its North end.

Geo. Site of Umatac Bay.

Geo. Site of Saypan and Tenian.

Geo. Site of other islands.

SAYPAN and TENIAN, situated near each other, betwixt lat. 15° and 15½° N., the latter being in lat. 15° 0′ N., lon. 145° 47′ E., are of middling height; and there is a peak on Saypan, which is the northernmost of these two islands. They have anchorage on their West sides; that of Tenian is in 20 to 35 fathoms, in a small bay near the South end of the island, but the bottom is rather foul, and the shore fronted by reefs. The West side of Saypan is also lined by a reef, and the Spanish plans, have a reef projecting from the N. W. part of the island to the S. W. and southward, until opposite to the North end of Tenian. Betwixt the N. W. end of this island and the reef, there is a good channel, with soundings of various depths within the reef, and anchorage near the western shore of Saypan. These islands, abound with limes, lemons, some cattle; and there is said to be plenty of wild hogs on Saypan, which articles are very renovating to the scorbutic crews of ships that touch here. English ships, sometimes stop at these islands, on their passage from New South Wales toward Canton; although fresh water may be got in Tenian Bay, Saypan seems to be a better island for refreshments, affording also safer anchorage than the former. Bird Island, in lat. 16° 4′ N., lon. 146° 7′ E.,* is the next island to the northward of Saypan, there being a wide and safe channel between them. Anatajan lies 7′ leagues to the N. Eastward of Bird

* By the observations of the ship Good Hope, in October, 1822, bound from. South America towards Bengal.

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Island, from whence the northern part of the Marian chain of islands are situated near each other, and extend about N. by W. to the islet Pajaros, in lat. 20° 34′ N., lon. 145° 48′ E.

Geo. Site of Assumption and other islands.

ASSUMPTION ISLAND, in lat. 19° 45′ N., lon. 145° 35′ E., is about 3 or 4 miles in length, of moderate height, with cocoa-nut trees on the West side, where a ship may anchor in 30 fathoms black sand, about ½ a mile off shore; but the landing is difficult, and no fresh water procurable for the supply of ships.

The three rocky isles, called MANUS, bear about N. W. by N., distant 5 leagues from Assumption; and URACAS the northernmost of these islands, is situated a little farther to the northward, in about lat. 20° 20′ N. This group of islands, is sometimes considered as part of those which go by the name of Marian Islands, as they are a continuation of the chain. The island Alamagan is in about lat. 18° 5′ N., and forms one of the chain, and other islands intervene between some of those mentioned above.

Geo. Site of Sulphur Islands.

SULPHUR ISLAND, in lat. 24° 48′ N., lon. 141° 20′ E., is small, with steep perpendicular cliffs fronting the sea, rising in a high peak at the summit, which may be seen 12 leagues off. It is covered with shrubs and long grass, having a rock close to its West end, and a reef projecting about ½ a mile from the N. E. end, with 10 fathoms water within a cable's length of the shore, and 30 fathoms rocky bottom at the distance of ½ a mile.

This remarkable rock, stands by itself in the middle of the ocean, but other small islands are situated several degrees to the eastward, and others to the northward of it, the situations of which are not correctly known. There is said to be one or two dangers in the space betwixt Sulphur Island and the Marian Islands; and from thence, westward to the Bashee Islands, there appears to be a reef in lat. 20° 32′ N., lon. 136° 12′ E., seen by Captain Douglas in 1789, which perhaps may be the same seen by Captain Bishop in 1796, about 14 leagues farther to the E. S. Eastward.

Geo. Site. of Abregoes Shoal.

Geo. Site of Kendrick's Island.

ABREGOES SHOAL, in lat. 20° 59′ N., lon. 136° 38′ E., is said to be a dangerous reef, seen by Captain Mears on his returning passage from the N. W. coast of America, but its real situation has not been satisfactorily ascertained, and it possibly may be one of those mentioned above. Captain Bishop, saw also a rock in lat. 25° 22′ N., lon. 132° 0′ E., and Captain Kendrick discovered a low island in lat. 24° 30′ N., lon. 133° 36′ E., about 2 leagues in extent.

Directions for sailing from Dampie's Strait toward China.

THE PACIFIC OCEAN being entered, conformably to the instructions given at the beginning of this section, for ships proceeding out of Dampier's Strait, every advantage ought to be afterward embraced, to get sufficient easting whilst in a low latitude. The best track to effect this, is betwixt the parallels of lat. 1° 30′ and 3° N., where a S. Easterly current will in general be experienced in December and January, which has already been described, in the directions for sailing out by the Gillolo Passage.

The proper quantity of easting to be made, must depend principally upon the judgment of the navigator, according to prevailing circumstances; but as a general rule, it seems necessary to get into about lon. 136° E. before the parallels of lat. 3° or 3½° N. are crossed, if it be intended to pass to the eastward of the Pellew Islands. In ships which sail indifferently, or are in any way disabled, it is advisable to make sufficient easting with the variable winds in a low latitude, to be enabled to pass to the eastward of the Pellew Islands, during the strength of the N. E. monsoon; but they ought not to run so far East, as to fall in with the Matelotas Islands, because spurts of westerly winds, have sometimes been experienced there, both in November and December.

Ships which sail well, may approach the southernmost extremity of the Pellew Islands, and

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proceed along their western sides, or pass within a moderate distance of them; which will generally be sufficient to enable them to weather the North end of Luconia, at any period of the N. E. monsoon. But as the current in this season sets mostly to the westward, from 10 to 15 miles daily, in the track betwixt the Pellews and Bashee Islands, with strong N. E. winds and a heavy sea, in December, January, and part of February, ships that pass to the eastward of the Pellew. Islands will be more to windward, and probably reach the Bashee Islands with greater facility, than others which pass to the westward of the Pellew Chain.

In this track, the sea commonly rises, prior to a strong gale at N. E.; but Ty-foongs, which are liable to happen near the Head of Luconia, and Formosa, give little or no warning of their approach, except by the fall of the mercury in a marine barometer, which is the best indicator of these storms; it is, therefore, prudent, for ships passing between the Pellew Islands and the coast of China, to be always in a proper state to encounter severe weather. From December to May, storms are seldom experienced; but in October, November, and December, also in June and July, many ships have been dismasted in the vicinity of the Babuyan, or Bashee Islands; and some have foundered with their crews, to the eastward of Luconia. If a ship happen to be disabled to the eastward of this island, and unable to weather its northern extremity, she may pass to the westward through the Embocadero, and Strait of Manila, then proceed along the West coast of Luconia to the northward as far as Cape Bajadore.

In proceeding from Dampier's Strait late in the season, you have no occasion to make so much easting as at an earlier period: late in February, and in March, you may pass to the westward of the Pellew Islands with safety, the violence of the N. E. monsoon being then on the decline, and the winds generally veer to E. N. Eastward. Having reached the latitude of the North end of Luconia, you may pass through the channel between the Babuyans and Bashee Islands, or through any of the safe channels amongst these islands, as circumstances require. But if early in the season, and the wind hang at N. Eastward, you may pass round to the northward of the Bashee Islands, on either side of Gadd's Rock, then haul up near the South end of Formosa, betwixt it and the Vele Rete Rocks, if thought necessary, when the weather is settled, in the day time. By adopting this track, you will be well to windward on opening the West side of Formosa, where the winds frequently draw through from the northward, between it and the coast of China; whilst they are prevailing from the N. Eastward outside of the islands. During the night, or with unfavorable weather, when this track cannot be pursued with safety, it will be prudent to give a good birth to Gadd's Rock, and Vele Rete Rocks, by borrowing toward the North Bashee Islands. And by whatever channel, you may have passed from the Pacific Ocean into the China Sea, endeavour to fall in with Pedro Branco, or the Coast of China near it, attending to the lead in the night, and then proceed through the Lema Channel, into the entrance of Canton River.

The light northerly, and baffling airs, with constant S. E. or southerly currents, which are generally experienced after leaving Dampier's Strait, render the progress to the eastward very slow; and afterward, it is frequently tedious getting to the northward as far as the Pellew Islands, because light N. E. winds, and a southerly swell, prevail greatly about the southern limit of the N. E. monsoon. When the latitude of the southernmost of the Pellew Islands is approached, the N. E. winds generally set in steady, and the current changes and sets to the westward; but sometimes, the regular N. E. monsoon is not experienced until clear to the northward of those islands. Whilst making easting in a low latitude, a good look out is requisite, because there probably may exist, some undiscovered dangers.

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DIRECTIONS for SAILING from CHINA, outside of the PHILLIPINE ISLANDS, and through the PITT'S PASSAGE, into the OCEAN.

Remarks relative to sailing from China, in the S. W. monsoon.

THE DIRECT PASSAGE, from China to Malacca Strait, may sometimes be performed by a fast sailing ship, against the S. W. monsoon; but it probably should not be attempted unless under particular circumstances, and only in ships bound to Bengal, or to the eastern side of that bay; for vessels are liable to strain, and injure their sails and rigging greatly, in beating down the China Sea, and they may in general expect to experience a tedious passage.

Ships departing from China, late in April or in May, have frequently adopted the route on the West side of the Philippine Islands, particularly when easterly winds prevailed at the time of their departure, because these winds were unfavorable for passing out into the ocean, between Formosa and Luconia; nevertheless, the Outer Passage seems preferable after the middle of May, being more certain than the other, and ought to be pursued by ships bound to Europe, or to the western part of Hindoostan; particularly, if they do not sail well, when close hauled to the wind.

To proceed by the Eastern Passage;

Departing from Canton River, late in May, June, or July, a ship ought to proceed by the outer track, to the eastward of the Philippine Islands, and through the Pitt's Passage; where she will probably meet with less embarrassment than by any other route, and may generally expect better winds, and more settled weather. August is rather late for returning by an eastern passage, a ship leaving Canton River at this time, may adopt the route along the coast of Cochin-china and Cambodia; but unless she be a fast sailer, it will be better not to depart before September, for little advantage can accrue from sailing so early.*

If the wind is at South or S. Westward, and the route on the East side of the Philippine Islands to be followed, pass out through the Lema Channel, then haul well to the southward, in order to lead out into the Pacific Ocean without tacking; because, the wind frequently veers to S. E., with strong northerly currents adjacent to the islands situated between Formosa and Luconia.

The channel betwixt the Babuyan and Bashee Islands, should be adopted if the wind permit, because it is clear of hidden danger, and farther to windward than the North channel between Formosa and the Bashees; besides, the latter is rendered unpleasant during thick weather, or in the night, by the Vele Rete Rocks, and Gadd's Rock.

through the Pacific Ocean.

HAVING entered the PACIFIC OCEAN, the winds will usually be found variable, chiefly at S. Westward, and a current setting to the N. E. or eastward at times, about 8 or 10 miles per day. An S. Easterly course should be steered, to get a good offing from Cape Engano and the coast of Luconia, for the wind draws from South and S. Eastward in the vicinity of that coast, with a strong current setting along it to the northward in this season, whereby several ships keeping near the land in June and July, have greatly prolonged their passage. Care is also requisite, not to get too far to the eastward, by tacking occasionally with the, favorable shifts of wind, in order to keep in the fair track. Some ships have been carried by the S. S.W. winds, as far out as the Matelotas Islands, but you ought not to pass outside of the Pellew Islands if it can be avoided.

In proceeding to the southward, the fair track is, to steer for the St. Andrew Islands, and

* Particular information, relative to sailing from China at all times of the year, will be found under the title, "China Sea," in the 2d Section; where instructions have been given for sailing through that sea.

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pass to the eastward of these, Current Island, Meriere, Lord North's Island, and the Helen's Shoal. If an easterly current is experienced, it will generally be weak, until the parallel of the South end of the Pellew Islands is approached; but in lat. 6° or 5° N., a strong set to the eastward may be expected in June, July, and August; which from lat. 5° to 2° N., forms a belt, often running at the rate of 30, to 60 miles in 24 hours. Strong westerly winds sometimes carry ships speedily across this belt of current; but light baffling airs often predominate, and then they are liable to be set greatly to the eastward, frequently to lon. 138° E., and the Althea was set into lon. 141° E., when in lat. 4° N. To prevent loss of time, steer a direct course to the S. S. W. or southward, across this current, on purpose to get clear of it speedily; for in lat. 2° to 1° N., the easterly current will be succeeded by a westerly set, which in this season generally prevails near the equator.

This current sets West and W. N. W., from 15 to 30, and sometimes 40 miles in 24 hours, adjacent to the coast of New Guinea, and near the North side of Waygeeooe; but close into the entrance of Dampier's Strait, there is a tide or current frequently running out to the eastward.

Toward Dampier's Strait.

Having passed to the eastward of St. Andrew Islands, steer to the southward, keeping in lon. 132½° to 133° E., if the wind permit; and having reached lat. 1° N., a direct course toward Point Pigot will be proper, or rather to make the coast of New Guinea a little to the eastward of that point, if the passage through Dampier's Strait is to be chosen. It is, however, prudent, not to make the coast of New Guinea far from the entrance of the strait, unless the wind prevail steady from eastward; because ships are sometimes retarded by westerly breezes, and a current running out betwixt Point Pigot and New Guinea.

through the Gillolo Passage,

THE GILLOLO PASSAGE, being wider, is preferred to Dampier's Strait by several navigators, for there is seldom any difficulty in getting through it, into the Pitt's Passage, as the winds are often variable; and when they prevail from the southward, a drain of current is frequently found to run through against the wind. If you adopt this passage, steer from lat. 2° N., nearly direct for the Asia's Islands, passing to the northward of them if the wind permit; or otherwise, betwixt them and the Yowl Islands. You may proceed into the Gillolo Passage, on either side of Geby, after passing the outermost islands, Eye and Syang; but during unsettled weather, the channel on the West side of Geby ought to be adopted, being wider than those to the eastward. In proceeding to the southward through the Gillolo Passage, keep well to the eastward, in case of meeting with a westerly current off the South end of Gillolo; and the Pitt's Passage may be entered by the wide channel formed between Pulo Pisang and the Boo Islands, or by that formed betwixt Kekik and Pulo Gasses, as circumstances require.

and through Dampier's Strait.

IF DAMPIER'S STRAIT be chosen, round Point Pigot at 2, 3, or 4 leagues distance, as may be convenient, according to the prevailing wind, then steer about W. ½ S. and W. by S. for King William's Island, keeping it hearing about West or W. ¼ S. There is no danger, in passing betwixt Point Pigot and New Guinea in the night; and the distance from that point being about 12 leagues to the narrow part of the strait, ships which pass round Point Pigot in the night, have the chance of getting through the narrowest part of the strait on the following day, probably without being obliged to anchor, if the wind or tide be favorable. Steering from Point Pigot to the westward in the night, take care not to get to the southward near Battanta Shoal, nor too near the coast of Waygeeooe, for the tides run sometimes strong and irregular. When the night is clear, this coast will be visible, and answer as a guide: if you run so far into the strait as to see King William's Island bearing about West, you will be in the fair track, and when within 3 leagues of it, steer about S. W. by W. for Pigeon Island; but unless acquainted, and the night be very favorable, it would be imprudent to approach the East end of King William's Island nearer than 3 or 4 leagues, until day-light. If

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a ship be drifted to the southward, into soundings near the shoal off the East end of Battanta, she ought instantly to bring up with a light anchor, to wait for day-light; and this will also be necessary, if she get upon the bank of anchorage, to the eastward of Pigeon Island.

In day-light, steering from Point Pigot to the westward, Mansfield Island and the other low island near it, will be seen bearing to the S. Westward, and Foul Island will be discerned soon after. These islands and the edge of Vansittart's Shoal, must have a good birth, by keeping King William's Island about West, and steering toward Pigeon Island bearing about W. by S. or W. by S. ½ S., after it is discerned. This island may be passed on the South side, at 2 or 3 miles distance, and after Augusta Island is brought to bear North or N. by E., you ought to keep within 3 leagues of the Battanta Shore, in proceeding to the S. Westward, to avoid the shoal patches bordering the North side of the channel, to the S. W. and westward of Augusta Island; observing, not to bring Pigeon Island to the eastward of E. N. E., nor Augusta Island to the eastward of E. N. E. ½ N. while they are visible.

To sail from Dampier's Strait through the Pitt's Passage;

Departing from Dampier's Strait, work close round the western part of Battanta to Cape Mabo, prior to stretching over for Pulo Popa, if you intend to pass on the South side of that island; because, with a S. S. Easterly wind and N. W. current, which frequently prevail between them, ships are liable to fall to leeward in crossing. When any difficulty appears in weathering Pulo Popa, no time ought to be lost, for the passage along the North side of it and the contiguous isles, is safe, and should be immediately adopted: you may pass within 2 or 3 miles of the North side of Pulo Popa, and the isles that project from its West end, then haul to the S. W. into the Pitt's Passage, betwixt them and, the Boo Islands.

Having entered the Pitt's Passage, the mid-channel track may be preserved, inclining a little toward the islands which bound it on the South side, in order to counteract any current that may be setting to the northward. But the currents in the Pitt's Passage, during, the S. E. monsoon, are changeable, although they usually run to the westward about 10 to 25 miles daily. The winds also, vary frequently all round the compass, betwixt the large islands which form this passage, by which ships are enabled to proceed either to the northward or southward, commonly, during both monsoons.

When a ship has steered from Pulo Popa to the westward, and reached the opening between Ceram and Bouro, she may proceed into the ocean by the Ombay Passage, or by some of the straits farther to the westward, as circumstances render expedient.

and from thence through the Ombay Passage;

OMBAY PASSAGE, may be pursued during the S. E. monsoon, for the wind prevailing mostly between East and E. S. E. in the Banda Sea, will enable ships which pass betwixt Manipa and the East end of Bouro, to weather Ombay. Sometimes, a strong southerly wind blows through the gut between Manipa and Bouro, but there is seldom any lee current. If difficulty be apprehended in getting through between them, you may round the West end of Bouro, then haul close to the wind; and even from hence, you will generally be able to pass to the eastward of Ombay: but a good look out must be kept for St. Matthew's and Velthoen's Islands, because at times there is a strong westerly current. The route into the ocean by the Ombay Passage, has already been mentioned in the sequel of one of the preceding sections, where directions are given for sailing from China to the westward of the Philippine Islands, and through the Molucca Passage. Ships from Amboina, steering for the Ombay Passage, ought to be Careful not to haul too much to the eastward, on account of the Turtle and Lucepara Isles, which are dangerous to approach in the night. If a ship proceeding through the passage, be in want of water or provisions, she will procure supplies, by touching at Dilly, or Batto-Gady, on the North coast of Timor; or at Copang Bay, situated at the West end of that island.

or to the westward through the Strait Salayer.

The Ombay Passage is the quickest route from the Pitt's Passage into the open sea; but if the track by Salayer Straits, and from thence through the Straits of Allass or Sapy is to be followed, steer from the N. W. part of Bouro about S. W. for the northernmost Token

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Besseys Island, which bears S. 48° W. from the N. W. end of Bouro, distant 64 leagues. If the wind blow strong from S. E., and a north-west current be apprehended, steer S. W. ½ S. from abreast of the N. W. end of Bouro, to prevent falling to leeward in crossing; taking care not to borrow near St. Matthew's Islands, nor to the eastern side of the Token Besseys, during the night.

When it can be conveniently done, a ship ought to fall in with-the northernmost island of the Token Besseys in day-light, for some ships by steering wide of it in the night, have got close to the N. E. part of Bouton; and after some delay, working against a strong S. E. wind and northerly current, were obliged to bear away; and proceeded through the Strait of Bouton. To make certain, therefore, of weathering the South end of Bouton, round the northern Token Besseys Island within the distance of 2 or 3 miles, it being steep to, on the North and West sides, no danger appearing to extend from it above a mile. Having rounded this island within the distance of a league, you will be enabled to pass round the South end of Bouton with a leading wind; from thence, steer about W. ½ N. for Middle Island in the Straits of Salayer, taking care to give a birth to the island Cambyna, when passing it in the night. If the North end of Salayer, and the adjacent islands are plainly discerned before dark, a person well acquainted, might run through betwixt Middle Island and South Island, when the night is clear; but it would be imprudent for a stranger to run into these straits in the night, for he might be liable to miss the proper channel, by mistaking one island for another.

To sail from Salayer Straits, toward Bengal;

From Salayer Straits, if bound to Bengal in the southerly monsoon, steer westward, on either side of the Brill Shoal, as most convenient, then so as to pass near the Great Solombo; from hence, steer to give a proper birth to the shoals off pulo Mancap, and proceed through the Carimata Passage. From hence steer for the North end of Banca, and through the Straits of Durian, or for the Strait of Singapore, as seems most eligible. The passage into Malacca Strait, will be speedy by either of these routes, and, the latter may be chosen by persons unacquainted, observing to fall in with Pulo Panjang, giving a birth to Geldria's Shoal, and passing close round the North side of Bintang, betwixt it and Pedro Branco. By following this route from Salayer Straits, and through Malacca Strait, a quick passage may be expected to Bengal.

or to Batavia.

If you intend to touch at Batavia, steer from the Great Solombo, along the North coast of Java, either to the northward or southward of Lubeck and Carimon Java, as expedient; but the strongest breezes will be experienced outside of these islands. After leaving Batavia, the route into the open sea, through Sunda Strait, ought to be adopted, whether ships are bound to Europe, to the western side of Hindoostan, or Bengal; unless those going to the latter place, intend to stop in the Strait of Malacca, and in such case, they should pass through the Straits of Banca and Durian.

To Sapy, and Allass Straits.

SAPY STRAIT, or ALLASS STRAIT, is mostly chosen, when ships bound to the to western parts of Hindoostan or to Europe, have adopted the passage through the Straits of Salayer. If you intend to proceed into the open sea by the Strait of Sapy, after passing along the West side of Salayer and Hog Island, haul up well to the southward, in order to counteract a westerly current, which may be expected in crossing: endeavour to fall in with the North end of Comodo, then steer for the western channel betwixt Gilibanta and Goonong-Apee, if in want of water or refreshments; for the eastern channel betwixt Gilibanta and Comodo, is little frequented, although it appears to be safe, and is the most direct, when passing to the southward in the S. E. monsoon.

Geo. Site of Mamalakjee, the N. W. Schiedam Island.

In steering from the West side of Salayer to the southward, give a birth to the outermost of the TONIN ISLANDS, of which, Mamalakjee the westernmost, is situated in lat. 6° 41′ S., lon. 120° 14′ E. The N. W. Schiedam Island, in lat. 7° 1′ S., lon. 120° 28′ E.,

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is the S. Westernmost of this group of islands, which extend southward from Salayer, and it has a dangerous reef projecting a great way to the W. S. Westward from its S. W. extremity.

Geo. Site of Easternmost Postillions.

Ships steering from Salayer Straits, toward the Strait of Allas, have no occasion to borrow near these islands, but they must steer a proper course to avoid the easternmost group of the POSTILLIONS, which bounds the West side of the passage. The S. Easternmost group of these islands, appears to consist of six or eight low woody islands, the largest in the centre, which extend from lat. 6° 45′ S., lon. 119° 15′ E., to lat. 6° 55′ S., lon. 119° 5′ E., measured by chronometer from Bally Town in the Strait of Allass. As these islands are thought to be fronted, and connected by dangerous reefs, they ought not to be approached close, particularly during the night.

Geo. Site of Selonda Island.

Having passed the latitude of this group, steer to make Selonda Island, situated in lat. 8° 8′ S., lon, 117° 44′ E. by chronometers; which being moderately high, and flat on the summit, may be discerned when the adjoining land of Sumbawa is obscured by haze. It is small, distant about 1 or 1½ league from the Sumbawa Shore, and 2 or 3 leagues to the eastward of Pulo Majo. A current will generally be found in this part, setting from 15 to 30 miles daily to the westward in the S. E. monsoon; and frequently much stronger to the eastward, during the opposite monsoon.

Geo. Site of Pulo Majo.

Gee. Site of Flat Island.

Geo. Site of Sandbuy's Shoals.

PULO MAJO, or MAYO, fronting the large bay or gulf on the North coast of Sumbawa, its North point is in lat. 8° 7′ S., lon. 117° 31′ E., and it is pretty high, about 4 leagues in extent; the coast of Sumbawa to the eastward of it, is in about lat. 8° 10′ S. When abreast of Pulo Majo about 9 or 10 miles distance, a course W. by S. ½ S. will just carry you clear outside of Flat Island, which lies in lat. 8° 9′ S., lon. 117° 25′ E., bearing about W. by N. from the West end of Pulo Majo. Great care is requisite when passing here in the night, for several ships have nearly got upon Flat Island before it was perceived; and it must not be rounded at a great distance, on account of the SANDBUY'S SHOALS, which are two dangerous sand banks, with rocks and coral shoals projecting from them, on which the Alexander struck, and was nearly lost in 1806, when steering from Lombock Strait to the eastward. These banks she made in lat. 7° 42′ to 7° 47′ S., lon. 117° 25′ to 117° 29′ E. by chronometers from Bally Town. The Minerva and Ardassier, steering out of the Strait of Allass, made these banks at day-light, January 9th, 1809, bearing N. E. by E., and E. N. E., in the direct course they were steering.

Captain William Greig, passed in the Minto, to the northward of these shoals, between them and the southern islands of the Paternosters, and saw one of them, which was a narrow sand extending East and West about 2 or 3 miles. When 2½ miles to the northward of it, Lombock Peak bore S. W. ½ S., and Tumbora Mountain, or Mount Aron on Sumbawa S. E. ¾ E., which places the sand bank in lat. 7° 43′ S., lon. 117° 19½′ E., by its bearing from Lombock Peak, or in lon. 117° 13½′ E. by its bearing from Mount Aron.

Capt. Warington, saw the Sandbuy's Shoals, in the ship Mary Ann, July 29th, 1822, which were two dry sand banks, in a transit bearing N. N. W. and S. S. E. of each other, which be made in lat. 7° 45′ S., lon. 117° 13¼′ E. by good chronometers.

The Dutch frigate, Maria Reygersbergen, April 1st, 1805, with 15 sail of ships under her convoy, at 8 A. M. saw a sand bank about 2 or 3 feet above water, bearing N. ½ W. about 2 miles distant, at the same time Lombock Peak bore S. 58° W., a high mountain, on Sumbawa E. by S., the North point of Pulo Majo S. 59° E., centre of Flat Island S. E. ½ S., the eastern of the high mountains on the S. W. part of Sumbawa S. ½ E., off Pulo Majo 4½ or 5 leagues. And she made this sand bank in lat. 7° 56′ S., lon. 117° 152′ E. by chronometers from Batavia.

Exclusive of these dangers mentioned above, there appear to be two other sand banks farther to the eastward, seen by H. M. S. Baracouta, September 19th, 1810; she was running at the rate of 8 knots, and saw a sand bank bearing W. by N., which she made in lat. 7°

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52½′ S., lon. 118° 3′ E., and shortly after saw another sand bank in lat. 7° 54′ S., lon. 118° 0′ E., so that, if the Baracouta's statement is correct, there exist four different sand banks between lat. 7° 42′ S. and 7° 56′ S., lon. 117° 13′ E, to 118° 3′ E.

There is a channel betwixt the West end of Pulo Majo and Flat Island, but ships always pass outside of them.

To sail from Flat Island into the strait of Allas.

When abreast of Flat Island, steer S. W. by W. for the entrance of Allass Strait, preserving a moderate distance from the range of low islands that lines the N. W. part of Sumbawa, which is steep to, until within 2/3ds of a cable's length of the reef that skirts some of them; soundings are then got of 60 or 50 fathoms. You may steer along these islands in the night if the weather is clear, but after running about 40 or 45 miles S. W. by W. from Flat Island, the narrow part of the strait will be approached, which is only 5 or 6 miles wide. The small Rocky Islands adjacent to the Lombock shore, which bound the West side of the channel, ought to be avoided in the night, for reefs project from them on the South and East sides. It would therefore, be imprudent, to pass through this narrow part of the strait during the night, unless certain of your situation, with clear weather, for the tides or currents might drift you near the reefs. Close to these rocky isles and reefs, there are soundings, where you may anchor in case of necessity; and there is a good channel near a league wide, betwixt them and the Lombock Shore, with regular soundings of 12 to 16 fathoms water. After passing Rocky Islands, the strait becomes wide; steer then within a moderate distance of the Lombock Shore, to Bally Road; or in working, you may occasionally stand well over toward the Sumbawa shore: this strait will be more particularly described, in one of the following sections.

STRAITS to the EASTWARD of JAVA.

1st. NORTH AND EASTERN PART OF JAVA: ADJACENT ISLANDS, STRAITS OF BALLY, AND LOMBOCK, WITH SAILING DIRECTIONS.

North coast of Java

NORTH COAST OF JAVA, is fronted by regular soundings, with shoal flats extending along it in several places, and some shoal patches lie detached from the shore bank; but in many parts, the coast may be approached to 8, 7, 6, or 5 fathoms, muddy bottom. There are many towns and small villages interspersed along the coast, of which CHERIBON, SAMARANG, RAMBANG, &c., are places of considerable trade, the circumjacent country being generally fertile, and abounding in grain.

Carawang Point.

Geo. Site of Sedary Point.

Gen. Site of Point Pamanoekan.

Woerden Castle Rock.

CARAWANG POINT, in lat. 6° 1′ S., forms the N. E. boundary of the Bay of Batavia, and if bound from hence to the eastward, steer to pass that point in about 15 fathoms, at or 3 miles distance, which is bold to approach within 1 or 1½ mile. Steer then about E. by N. to clear Sedary Shoal, which is extensive, lying 10 miles off Sedary Point, with a small channel of 4 and 5 fathoms between it and the point; the least water on it is 3 fathoms, and 10 fathoms close to, on the outside, SEDARY POINT, in lat. 5° 59′ S., lon. 107° 27′ E., is not quite so woody as Carawang Point; with the low land well in sight from the deck, you will be sufficiently near the shoal. From the outer edge of Sedary Shoal, the course is about E. S. E. to POINT PAMANOEKAN, in lat. 6° 11′ S., lon. 107° 49′ E.; the coast may be approached to 8 fathoms, and from 10 to 14 fathoms is a proper track in the night, to pass within the WOERDEN CASTLE ROCK, where the ship of this name was lost,

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which lies in the stream of 17 fathoms about 12 or 13 miles N. E. by E.* from Point Pamanoekan. Close to its inner edge the depth is 15½ fathoms, and close to the outer edge 18 fathoms.

The Princess Charlotte, grounded on a shoal or rock, apparently farther out than the above danger, and received considerable damage. When aground in 2½ fathoms, found in sounding around the ship only 19 and 20 feet water at 40 or 50 yards distance, and then it deepened suddenly: Pamanoekan Point bore from the shoal S. by W. ¾ W., distant about 14 miles. After lightening the ship, she floated off the shoal, steered then S. by W. 3 miles, and anchored in 19 fathoms, Pamanoekan Point bearing S. S. W., and the Woerden Castle Rock plainly visible from the deck bearing S. S. W., distant 1½ or 2 miles.

About 8 or 9 miles E. by S. from Point Pamanoekan, and 2½ or 3 miles off shore, there is a Three Fathoms Bank, in the stream of 6½ fathoms. The coast from Sedary to Indramayo Point is low near the sea, with some high land in the interior, and may be approached safely to 8 fathoms.

Geo. Site of Indramayo Point.

INDRAMAYO POINT, in lat. 6° 15′ S., lon. 108° 20′ E. by chronometers, is of moderate height and woody, and from having a river contiguous, it appears like an island: there is good anchorage on the West side of this point in the easterly monsoon, in 4 or 5 fathoms.

Geo. Site of Pulo Rackit.

PULO RACKIT, in lat. 5° 56′ S., lon. 108° 22′ E., fronts Indramayo Point, and lies in the stream of 25 fathoms; it is sometimes called Bumkin's Island, but this name is generally given to the dangerous rocky banks lying to the North and N. N. E. of Pulo Rackit, partly above, and partly under water, formed of detached patches of rocks, with deep water of 20 to 26 fathoms between them.

Geo. Site of Bumkin's Island.

BUMKIN'S ISLAND, or OUTER SHOAL, in lat. 5° 47′ S., lon. 108° 23′ E. by chronometers, is formed of white sand in the centre, with black rocks stretching out a great way at each extremity; close to it, the depths are from 23 to 26 fathoms, and 4 miles N. N. E. from it there are 30 fathoms blue mud. The Volunteer, in October, 1812, had 22 fathoms mud, with the shoal bearing from South to S. W. by W., distant 1½ mile from the nearest part; a large proa was lying here (probably fishing), the crew of which had built a hut on the shoal. Between this outer shoal and Pulo Rackit, lies the Middle Patch, or Shoal, with soundings of 23 and 24 fathoms around, and between it and them. Upon this Middle Patch, the ship Bria de Mer, from Samarang, in October, 1812, got in the night, and a few minutes before striking, had 26 fathoms water; she lay 18 hours on the shoal, and got off with the loss of her rudder.

If working through the channel between Pulo Rackit and Indramayo Point in the night, come no nearer the island than 19 or 20 fathoms, nor under 10 fathoms toward the point.

Cheribon Mountain.

CHERIBON. or CHERMAI MOUNTAIN, in lon. 108° 26′ E., will be discernible when in sight of Indramayo Point, and this point must not be sunk to the northward of W. by N. if a ship is not bound into Cheribon; for if brought to bear W. N. W. she would get upon the mud bank of Cheribon, which should not be approached under 8 or 9 fathoms.

The anchorage at Cheribon, or Ceribon, is to the N. E. of the fort, in 3½ to 5 fathoms, and it is sheltered from the N. W. monsoon, by a shoal bank that stretches from the North point of the bay to the eastward. Ships steering for the bay, must keep well to the eastward of the point, and round the bank in 6 or 7 fathoms; and having approached the Java shore to 5½ or 5 fathoms, they ought to haul to the westward for the road.

From Cheribon to Tegal or Taggal, the coast is low, but inland the country is mountainous,

* The Dutch charts place it about N. E. from that point.

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Taggal Mountain.

Geo. Site of Taggal Flagstaff.

Taggal Rock.

TAGGAL MOUNTAIN, situated in about lon. 109° 19′ E., will be seen bearing S. E. by S. when off the bight of Cheribon, and is higher than Cheribon Mountain. If within 4 leagues of the coast of Taggal, a remarkable crooked hill called Goonong Gaja or Elephant Hill, will be seen at the foot of the mountain, considerably to the eastward of Taggal, the flagstaff of the latter being in lat. 6° 50′ S., lon. 109° 14′ E. The anchorage here, is in 4 to 5½ fathoms, with the fort bearing South or S. by E. and it is 9 or 10 leagues to the eastward of Cheribon.

TAGGAL.ROCK, or CARRANG LASAROOK, in lat. 6° 45½′ S., lies to the N. Eastward of Taggal, about 4 miles off shore, in the stream of 9 fathoms, on which the sea sometimes breaks; at other times it is not visible, for Capt. Owen, in H. M. sloop Baracouta, August 20th, 1811, ran against it, while keeping a good look out. When the rock bore West ⅓ of a mile, peak of Taggal Mountain bore S. ¼ E., Elephant Hill S. 27° E., next high peak East of the Elephant S. 50° E.

August 24th, working along shore within Carrang Lasarook, Capt. Owen observed at noon in lat. 6° 48′ S. with Taggal Peak S. 1° E., Elephant Hill S. 30° E., Taggal Flagstaff W. S. W., a village S. 45° E., off shore about 2½ miles, when the breakers on Lasarook were seen from aloft bearing North, about 2 miles distant.

To pass within this danger, 6 fathoms is a good depth, and not less than 11 fathoms to pass it on the outside.

Hooger meer Shoal.

From Taggal the coast lies nearly East to Samarang, and should not be approached under 14 or 15 fathoms in the night when about 6 leagues to the eastward of Taggal, for nearly fronting Point Pamalang, lies the HOOGERMEER SHOAL, from which the Elephant Hill is said to bear S. S. W. From hence, 14 to 20 fathoms is a good track in the night, to avoid a Three Fathoms Shoal laid to lie off Roebang in 23 fathoms water, or 9 or 10 leagues to the eastward of Pamalang Point; and another shoal in 12 fathoms off Kaudal, more to the eastward, the latter having a channel of 10 to 5 fathoms between it and the Java shore.

Geo. Site of Samarang.

Between Taggal and Samarang, the land is high in the interior, and the most conspicuous mountains toward the latter, are the Brothers, two remarkable peaked mountains, the easternmost being farther inland than the other. To the eastward of these, stands a mountain by itself called MARBABOE or SAMARANG HILL, bearing S. ¼ E. from Samarang Road and Flagstaff, the latter being in lat. 6°.57′ S., lon. 110° 25′ E.

Japara.

SEMARANG, or SAMARANG BAY, bounded on the East side by the high land of Japara, is situated directly South from the island of Carimon Java: the anchorage in 5 or 6 fathoms mud, about 4 or 5 miles off shore, is in lat. 6° 53′ S., with the Flagstaff of Samarang bearing from South to S: S. E, the high land of Japara N. E. by E., and the western extreme of Java West; or a small ship may anchor in 4½ or 4 fathoms, nearer the shore. Ships which touch here, may procure provision and refreshments; also at the fort and settlement of Japara, situated on the West side of the projecting land, that forms the eastern side of Samarang Bay, and stretches a great way to the northward.

The coast about Samarang, being very low and forming a deep bight, when off it, the high land of Japara will be seen bearing about E. by N. appearing like an, island, the course from Samarang Road to Japara Point being about N. N. E.

Geo. Site of Mandalique Island.

MANDALIQUE ISLAND, in lat. 6° 22′ S., lon. 110° 54′ E.* by chronometers from Batavia, fronting Mount Mosia, the next to the eastward of the high land of Japara, and near the sea, is a small round island about 2 or 3 miles off the projecting part of the coast,

* Captain Ashmore, in 1822, made it in lat. 6° 22¼′ S., lon. 110° 57′ E. by chronometers.

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having 5 fathoms about 1½ mile off, and is bold to approach; and there is said to be a passage with 4 fathoms between it and Japara Point. Do not bring this island to the northward of W. by N. till 5 leagues past it, to avoid an extensive mud bank, projecting from the next point to the eastward. About 9 leagues to the E. S. E. of the latter point, in lat. 6° 35′ S., lon. 111° 27½′ E., LERANG POINT is situated, having in lat. 6° 41′ S. Lassem Hill over it; and between these points lie the ports of RAMBANG and LASSEM, near the East part of the bay, noted for teak timber, and ship building; with the village Jawana at the S. Western part of the bay.

Geo. Site of Lerang Point.

Lassem.

Rembang or Rambang, in lat. 6° 42′ S., lon. 111° 19′ E., has several small isles and shoals on both sides of the anchorage; to avoid which, bring the Flagstaff South, and run into 4 fathoms.

Geo. Site of Rambang.

From Lerang Point, the coast is clear of danger eastward to the entrance of Sourabaya, and may be approached to 6 or 5½ fathoms, or in some places to 4½ fathoms.

Geo. Site of Point Panka.

Coast adjacent.

PANKA, or PANCO POINT, in lat. 6° 52′ S., lon. 112° 34½′ E. by chronometers from Batavia, forming the West side of the strait or channel leading into Sourabaya, is low and sandy, with a temporary flagstaff on it. A little to the westward of it, lie four little remarkable hills, one called Coffin Hill from its appearance when viewed from the westward, one like a Button, another like a Hat, and the longest to the westward like a Gunner's Quoin.

If you intend to wait for a pilot, to carry your ship into Sourabaya, bring Point Panka to bear S. W., and anchor in 5 or 4½ fathoms off the Town House of Zidayo, where the pilots come from.

Geo. Site of Sourabaya.

SOURABAYA, in lat. 7° 15½′ S., lon. 112° 48′ E. by chronometer from Batavia, is a considerable town on the East part of Java, situated at the South end of the Strait of Madura, opposite to the S. W. end of the island of this name. Ships going to this place, generally require pilots to carry them through the strait. The anchorage is about ½ a mile to the northward of the river that runs through the town, with the flagstaff of the fort bearing S. 2° E., and the village of Grisse W. 30° N. This place abounds with provisions and refreshments of various kinds, and the Dutch carry on a considerable trade between it and Batavia, and the other ports along the coast.

To sail into Sourabaya.

TO SAIL INTO SOURABAYA,* observe that the North entrance of the strait of Madura, formed between the N. W. end of that island and Point Panka, is about 13 or 14 miles wide, and the channel leading to Sourabaya is close round Point Panka, all the intermediate space between it and Madura being occupied by a mud flat, excepting a small channel for boats along the Madura shore.

Bring Point Panka to bear South till in 5 fathoms, you will then be about 2½ or 3 miles distant, and near the edge of a rocky spit that projects from the point to the N. E. Keep about the same distance, rounding the point in 4½ or 5 fathoms, and when abreast of it, steer S. S. E. till you get Fort Lodowick to bear S. E. ¾ S, then steer direct for the fort, and your soundings will he about 3 fathoms at ½ flood.

In running up, go to the westward of the fishing stakes, and round the East point of Fort Lodowick at a ¼ mile distance. With the wind contrary, after getting Zidayo House to bear S. S. W. ½ W., never bring Fort Lodowick beyond S. E to S. E. by S., and tack in ¼ less 3 fathoms on each bank, till you have brought Zidayo house to bear W. by N., then you will quickly deepen: you have deep water rounding the fort, but it shoals very quick on the edge

* These directions are by Capt. Arrow, of the Antelope cruizer, who says, pilots cannot always be procured, but by following these directions, any ship not drawing more than 16 feet water, may safely proceed up to Sourabaya.

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of the mud flat. When abreast of the East angle of the fort, steer over to the Madura side, to avoid a spit of sand stretching off from the S. E. end of the fort nearly a mile; from hence, keep close to the Madura shore, and when you see the fishing stakes, pass to the westward of them. Afterward, you may work from side to side without fear, as no other danger appears to exist until you reach the S. W. point of Madura, off which lies the Buffalo Rocks, joined by a sand bank to the point. You may, however, pass them within ½ a mile, then steer direct for the shipping, and anchor in 8 or 9 fathoms about ½ a mile off the mouth of the river.

Capt. Arrow observes, that the large house at Zidayo is the Sultan's house, and its roof is visible above the trees as soon as the latter are seen. Pilots do not come off unless the signal be made; and as pirates often lurk among the fishing proas, great caution is necessary in sending a boat to the shore. The shoals in the offing are steep to, and dangerous; and the Buffalos are flat black rocks, with 5 fathoms water close to them. On the Java shore, bearing about W. by S. from the Buffalos, there is a point, to the South and S. E. of which, and forming a curve towards the town of Sourabaya, lies a bank on which you may stand to 6 or 7 fathoms, but do not cross over it, as the water deepens suddenly to 8, 10, and 11 fathoms, where you would be on the rocks before another cast of the lead could be got.

Geo. Site of Madura.

MADURA ISLAND, is of an even appearance, moderately elevated, its N. W. point being in lat. 6° 53′ S., lon. 112° 45½′ E., the N. E. point in lat. 6° 53′ S., lon. 113° 58½′ E. by chronometers from Batavia; and the whole of the North coast which extends nearly East and West, is bold to approach, with regular soundings of 8 or 10 fathoms within 1 or 2 miles of the shore, in most places, but the East point opposite to Pondy, has a reef projecting from it to a considerable distance.

Watering place.

At the N. E. part of the island there appears to be a good watering place, as the Phœnix, February 12th, 1707, anchored there, in 12½ fathoms soft ground, with the extremes of Madura bearing from S. E. ½ S. to W. ½ S., and the watering place W. S. W. ¾ S. distant 4 or 5 miles, which is situated in a sandy bay, at the foot of a bill having the same bearing: this sandy bay has some rocks at each extremity, but affords good anchorage, and the water is excellent, easily procured, with plenty of firewood close to the sea. February 26th, she weighed (having remained from the 12th), and anchored again in 13 fathoms, Madura bearing from W. ½ S. to S. E.½ E., watering place S. ¾ W., nearest shore S. W. ½ W. distant 3 miles, Pondy Island S. E. 5 leagues, the southern part of it shut in with the East point of Madura.

Geo. Site of Pondy Island.

PONDY, a small and level island, in lat. 7° 1′ S., about lon. 114° 4′ E.,* is distant from the N. E. part of Madura about 4 or 5 miles, having a safe although narrow passage between them, by keeping the island from ¾ to 1½ mile distant. At Pondy, plenty of fowls and sheep may be procured, with bullocks weighing from 4 to 4½ cwt. at 4½ dollars each; and about a mile off its eastern side, the anchorage is good in 10 or 11 fathoms mud. The channel betwixt it and Galion is very safe, about 3 leagues wide, with soundings from 10 to 24 fathoms.

Shoals South of it.

To the South of Pondy there are two extensive shoals, the northernmost of which, was seen on with the South end of Galion bearing E. by S. ½ S., then distant from the shoal 2 miles, and 4 leagues from Galion; same time, the other shoal bore S. S. E. ½ E. about 1½ mile, Pondy N. E. by N., and Turtle Island visible from the deck S. W. ¾ S. The southernmost of these two shoals is a large sand bank, and when on with the South end of Galion, it bears E. ½ S. In July, 1811, H. M. S. Psyche, after passing between Pondy and Madura,

* Capt. Ashmore, in 1822, made Pondy in lon. 114° 12′ 38″ E., and the N. E. end of Madura in lon. 114° 9′ 20″ E.

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least water 5 fathoms, passed also to the westward of these shoals at 2 miles distance, then steered S. by W. and passed Turtle Island at the distance of 2 miles.

To proceed into Samanap.

If bound to Samanap by the channel between Pondy and Madura, keep within 1 or 1½ mile of Pondy to avoid the shoal bank off Madura, then steer S. by W. till abreast of the two shoals which lie South of Pondy; with this course, 7 fathoms will be the least water, and you will rise Turtle Island about S. by W. ½ W. or S. S. W., which is a small sandy isle with trees: when abreast of the shoals, steer a proper course along the South side of South East Island, keeping in 4 to 5 fathoms until you see the town of Samanap bearing N. N. W., and anchor in 4 fathoms, about 4 miles from the town.

Samanap;

SAMANAP, or ZAMANAP, is a considerable town on the S. E. side of Madura, belonging to the Dutch, where provision and refreshments may be procured, the adjacent country abounding with rice, and teak timber for ship building. Here, the Dutch build their largest ships for the country trade.

To sail to the anchorage.

The channel leading into Samanap Bay, is on the South side of S. E. Island, having Turtle Island at the entrance, which is small, and the large Island Nightingale inside; both of these, are on the South side of the common channel. A ship working in, may stand toward the islands on the South side to 13 or 14 fathoms, and to 8 or 10 fathoms on the opposite side, shoaling gradually toward the entrance of the bay. The anchorage is in 4 or 5 fathoms mud, with the South point of Samanap Bay bearing W. 13° S., the North point N. 23° W., the fort N. 33° W., the outer extreme of S. E. Island East, and Galion E. ½ S., off the nearest shore about 2½ miles. To the westward of Turtle Island, with it bearing East to E. by N., and the East end of S. E. Island N. E. by N., there is a shoal, having on it only 2 and 3 feet water.

Galion, and adjacent Islands.

GALION, or RESPONDY ISLAND, situated to the S. Eastward of Pondy, is higher and of greater extent; both are well cultivated, having a pleasant appearance, and the common channel leading to the strait of Bally, is betwixt these islands. There is also a safe channel with soundings in it, East of Galion, which is bounded on the eastern side by Great Hog Island, and the small adjacent islands. GREAT HOG ISLAND, lies directly to the eastward of Galion, having several small islands to the northward, and the Four Brothers farther to the eastward.

Geo. Site of the Four Brothers.

FOUR BROTHERS, in about lat. 7° 8′ S., lon. 115° 0′ E., are merely sand banks or sunken islands, lying to the westward of Kangelang, and on the North side of them, at the distance of a cable's length, the depths are 18 and 20 fathoms sandy bottom.

Geo. Site of Urk.

URK ISLAND, in lat. 7° 15′ S., lon. 115° 13′ E., by chronometer from Batavia, is rather low, and woody, having a sandy beach around, with a small reef at its S. E. part, and a rocky ledge projecting ½ mile from the West and W. N. W. point; and from this point, the Four Brothers are discernible.

Geo. Site of Kangelang.

KANGELANG, or CANGAYANG ISLAND, is of middling height, and of great extent in an East and West direction; the North end is in lat. 6° 53′ S., lon. 115° 17½′ E., and the South end in about lat. 7° 9′ S., lon. 115° 25½′ E. by the Dutch frigate Maria Reygersbergen's chronometers from Batavia, which ship with her convoy, at anchor under Kangelang, March 21st, 1805, in 24 fathoms mud, made the observed lat. 7° 9′ S., lon. 115° 19½′ E., Urk Island bearing S. W. about 10 miles. On the West side of Kangelang lies an island, inside of which there is formed a good harbour, capable of containing 20 or 30 ships, where Dutch vessels sometimes take shelter in the N. W. monsoon, when unable to beat up to Batavia in that season. Between Kangelang and Urk, the anchorage is good over a sandy

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bottom, 25 fathoms close to Urk, 40 to 45 fathoms in mid-channel, and within 3 cables' lengths of Kangelang, from 10 to 15 fathoms.

Passage to the southward of Kangelang.

The above-named frigate, and convoy, from Batavia to Amboina, passed along the North coast of Java and Madura, then on the North side of the Four Brothers and Urk, between them and Kangelang; afterward, along the North coasts of Lombock, Sumbawa, Flores, and Wetter. The Dutch ships from Banda, bound to Batavia in June, July, and August, also prefer this route to that through the straits of Salayer.

Geo. Site of Antelope's Islands.

The Company's cruizer Antelope, commanded by Capt. Arrow, bound from Sourabaya to Amboina, passed to the South of Kangelang, October 23d, 1812, and saw four small low islands covered with trees, having no soundings near them, and they appeared to be clear of dangers. By noon observation when the S. Easternmost of these islands bore East, he made it in lat. 7° 12½′ S., and the central island in lat. 7° 11′ S., and in lon. 115° 50′ E., or 4° 38′ West of Middle Island in Salayer Straits by chronometers; at the same time, land thought to be Kangelang, was seen from the mast-head at a great distance, extending from N. E. to N. W. These islands seem to lie far to the eastward of Urk, and at a great distance from the S. Eastern part of Kangelang by the above bearings, which would make the South coast of the latter, farther to the northward than placed by the Dutch frigate's observations; neither do the Dutch, place any islands far distant from the southern coast of Kangelang.

North coast of Kangelang.

The channel to the northward of the Four Brothers, and between Urk and the S. W. part of Kangelang, appears to be very safe, and frequented by the Dutch, as described above. Capt. Ross, in passing through this channel, could not discern the Four Brothers, and therefore thinks it wider than usually represented. Capt. Warington, from Sydney, by Torres Strait, passed between Urk and Kangelang in the ship Mary Ann, July 30th, 1822, keeping nearly in mid-channel, and foul ground appeared to project a considerable distance from the shore of Kangelang in some places. There appears, also, to be a safe channel along the North coast of Kangelang, and between the islands which front its eastern extremity, through which the ship James and Mary passed when bound from Borneo to England; the following extract from her journal may perhaps be useful, as the coasts of Kangelang are little known to British navigators.

February 2d, 1722, saw the North coast of Kangelang, and mistook it for Madura; at noon the eastern extreme bore S. E. by E. 4 leagues, having shoaled in the night suddenly from 42 to 17 fathoms water.

Watering Bay.

February 3d, steered along shore E. S. E. and S. E. till 7 P. M. then anchored in 19 fathoms, the northernmost extreme of the land N. W. by W., a small island to the eastward S. E. by E. distant about 2 leagues, and our distance off shore 3 miles. In the morning, find by several small islands and sands near us, that this is not Madura, but Kangelang or Tanjayang, the easternmost point bearing S. E. ½ E., and two small isles near to that seen at 7 P. M., one bearing E. S. E. ½ S., a round sandy isle E. by S. ½ S., a long low island E. by S., and a small isle or sand appearing above the surface of the water E. S. E. distant above a mile, besides several others more westerly, seen yesterday. In a low valley near the sea, found several springs of fresh water, from whence we took on board 38 tons by the 7th. On the 9th, weighed and steered N. N. W. out of the bay, till in 25 fathoms water, but had 5 fathoms on a shoal. With westerly winds, steered along the coast to the eastward, and saw a village, the chief of which came on board by invitation; here we lay two days, and got two or three buffalos, some fowls, and a few goats.

Islands forming a channel at the East end of Kangelang.

On the 16th, 17th, and 18th, kept the boat sounding a-head, among the islands off the East end of Kangelang, where we found a passage between two islands, which I call Hopewell Island, and Passage Island. On the 16th, at 3 P. M., when Hopewell Island bore S. S. E. 3 leagues, a dry sand was bearing E. N. E. about 4 miles. At 7 P. M. anchored in 3 fathoms sand and shells, off Passage Island, the East point bearing E. by N. off shore 2 miles, and the westernmost part of Hopewell Island W. by N. ½ N., and Lombock high

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land S. S. E. At 6 A. M., weighed, and had soundings from 5 to 18 fathoms, but the weather becoming squally, anchored again.

February 17th, at 5 A. M. weighed with the wind at W. N. W., soundings from 19 to 35 fathoms. At 8 A. M., the East point of Long Island* bore South, distant 3 leagues; at noon, its South point bore W. by N. distant 1 league, no ground 35 fathoms.

February 18th, at 4 P. M., the East point of Long Island bore N. E. by N., and its West point N. N. W., off shore 4 leagues. At 6 P. M., part of Kangelang bore N.W. ½ N., distant 6 leagues, high land of Lombock S. E. by S., distant about 25 leagues. The westerly winds continued, which carried us clear through the strait of Lombock, February 20th.

Kalkoon Islands.

Geo. Site of the coralbanks adjacent.

KALKOON, or TURKY ISLES, have been already mentioned, in the directions given for sailing from Batavia to the straits of Salayer. These isles, are low and small, stretching nearly from Kankelang, North and N. Eastward, to about lat. 6° 10′ S., having dangerous coral banks projecting from them far out to the eastward. The fleet from China, under convoy of H. M. S. Belliqueux, after passing through Macassar Strait, made these isles, July 12th, 1801, bearing from N. 58° W. to W. 10° S., some of them just in sight from the poop, distant 7 or 8 leagues. Here, they got overfalls from 50 fathoms mud, suddenly to 7 and 8 fathoms coral, and the Belliqueux struck in 4¼ fathoms by the lead, and deepened at one cast from 10 to 40 fathoms. At this time, the isles were not visible, but from noon observations taken 3 hours previously, she was in lat. 6° 30½′ S., lon. 116° 19′ E. by mean of five ships' chronometers, Hastings Island supposed to bear S. by E. ½ E. Near the same place, the Dorsetshire saw the rocks under the bottom, and had ¼ less 5 fathoms.

Geo. Site of Hastings Island.

Adjoining Channel.

Soundings.

HASTINGS ISLAND, in lat. 6° 56′ S., lon. 116° 24′ E. † by mean of the chronometers of the fleet mentioned above, is low, and it is the S. Easternmost of the Kangelang group, having a good channel to the eastward, betwixt it and the westernmost of the Great Pater Nosters, leading to Lombock, or Allass Straits. From what has been stated, it appears, that the Kalkoon Isles ought not to be approached on the East side in large ships, without great caution. Working to the southward with a S. E. wind, and westerly current of 10 or 14 miles in 24 hours, the fleet had generally soundings from 46 to 58 fathoms on the East side of these isles, when some of them were visible from the poop or mast-head. After beating two days, they weathered Hastings Island, July 14th, passed to the eastward of it at 5 leagues distance, and anchored at Bally Road, in Allass Strait, on the following day.

Bally Strait.

BALLY STRAIT, has been mentioned in volume first of this work, under the head of "Islands to the South and S. Eastward of Java," &c. but it becomes necessary here, to describe particularly the dangers in this strait, and in those adjacent.

Cape Sandana.

Mynders Rocks.

CAPE SANDANA, or SEDANA, in about lat.7° 49′ S., bearing nearly South from Galion, is the extremity of the high land that forms the N. E. end of Java, and bounds the North entrance of Bally Strait on the West and N. W. sides. Over the point that forms the cape, stands a high indented table hill, called Mount Sandana, with each of its extremes sloping down, one forming the cape, and the other rounding into a bay. Soundings of 40 to 60 fathoms, extend from Galion Island to this cape, and also to the westward, but none to the eastward of the cape. MYNDERS ROCKS, situated about 5 or 6 miles to the northward of the nearest land of the cape, consist of three small sand banks usually above water,

* Called so, by the natives.

† Capt. Arrow, of the Antelope, passed on the South side of this island, October 24th, 1812, and made it in lon. 116° 18′ E., or 4° 10′ West of Middle Island in Salayer Straits by chronometers. Capt. Bowman, passed to the North and eastward of it at.5 leagues distance in the Diana, December 27th, 1812, and made it in lat. 6° 53′ S., lon. 116° 14′ E., or 9° 22′ East of Batavia by chronometers.

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but covered on high spring tides, and surrounded by rocks, with a reef projecting to the S. E., having 60 fathoms within a cable's length of them at the North and East sides. These rocks are on with the centre of Table Hill, bearing S. by W. ½ W., on with its eastern brow S. ¾ W., and on with the eastern extreme of Java bearing S. by E. ¾ E. H. M. S. Psyche, at noon, observed in lat. 7° 41′ S., with these rocks in sight from the deck bearing E. N. E. ½ N. about 6 or 7 miles, a remarkable hill on Java South, Cape Sandana S. E. 7 or 8 miles. There appears to be a shoal projecting from Mynders rocks to the westward, for the Valentine had Cape Sandana bearing S. by E. about 4 leagues distant, when Mynders rocks bore S. E. ¼ S. about 4 miles. Her boat found then 3 fathoms upon the shoal to the westward, with these rocks bearing E. N. E. and Cape Sandana S. by E. About mid-way in a direct line from the easternmost point of Cape Sandana toward Gilboang, lies a 2 fathoms bank near 2 miles off the Java shore, with 20 fathoms water inside of it, and 30 or 35 fathoms near it to the North and southward, and the coast is lined by a reef from the point to the entrance of Bally Strait.

To sail into the Strait of Bally.

The narrow part of Bally Strait, begins about 4 leagues to the South of the easternmost point of Cape Sandana, having Gilboang, or Gilboan Island on the West side, which lies near Water Point on Java, and the S. Eastern side is bounded by the N. W. point of Bally and Hart Island contiguous, and a little to the eastward. There are no soundings near the reef that projects from Gilboang Island to the N. E. and S. W., nor near Hart Island, nor in the narrow gut that forms the North entrance of the strait which appears to be only about a mile wide: therefore, endeavour to keep in mid-channel when passing through the strait, with the assistance of boats towing a-head if calm; for it is unpleasant, and sometimes dangerous, to approach the points close, as the tides run 6 knots an hour during the springs, with eddies near the points in the narrow part, which are liable to horse you on the steep rocky shore of Java. On this account, ships usually give the preference to the Straits of Lombock, Allass, or Sapy, particularly if coming from the northward.

Fort Utrich and anchorage.

Bangi Wangi, or Fort Utrich, situated in about lat. 8° 16′ S., in a bay on Java, at the southern part of the narrows, affords refreshments, and anchorage in 12 or 13 fathoms soft ground, with the fort bearing West, about a mile or more off shore; but care is required to avoid the Deptford Rock, which is directly in the fair way in entering the bay from the northward. The Deptford having grounded on it, December 26th, 1795, in 3 fathoms, found 2¾ fathoms on its summit, and could perceive several pieces of the coral break off, as the ship sallied. It is not more than a ship's breadth in diameter, shelving down suddenly to 6 fathoms, with 10 fathoms water within it, and 14 fathoms outside, at the distance of a ship's length. When on the rock, the red tiled house or store-house bore W. S. W., the first point to the southward S. ¾ W., distance off shore about 2 miles, in lat. 8° 14½′ S. To avoid this rock, ships should not borrow under 17 fathoms in coming from the northward, until the fort is brought to bear about West, then haul in for the anchorage directly abreast of the fort and village.

Geo. Site of Volcano Mountain Balambouang Bay.

The burning mountain on Bally, is in lat. 8° 24′ S., lon. 115° 24′ E. by chronometers.

Balambouang Bay, which stretches South 4 or 5 miles inland on the Java side, nearly in the middle of the strait, affords also water and refreshments; for bullocks may be got, and fresh water in the adjoining river. Inside of the bay, the depths are from 9, to 7 and 6 fathoms, but ships generally anchor off the entrance, in 10 to 12 fathoms soft ground. Goonong-Ikan point, which forms its eastern extreme, is said to be in lat. 8° 23′ S., but the Dutch plans make it more to the southward. It is high water here at 10½ hours on full and change of the moon, and the rise of tide is from 6 to 8 feet.* From this bay the strait takes a S. E. direction, then southerly, and is much wider than the northern parts; the ebb tide

* The stream of flood, is said to run to the northward in the middle of the strait until 12½ hours, and the ebb to southward till about 7 hours, on the full and change of the moon.

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generally inclines to set toward the Java shore, where there is seldom any safe anchorage to be found; and the East point of Java being fronted by sunken rocks and breakers, requires a good birth in passing out to the southward, or in entering the strait from that direction.

Geo. Site of N. E. point Bally.

Table Point, the southern extremity of the island Bally, is in lat. 8° 50′ S., and forms the eastern boundary of the South entrance of the strait. The N. E. point of Bally is in lat. 8° 18′ S., about lon. 113° 43′ E., by chronometers from Batavia. The variation in 1822, was 1° 12′ E. off the South entrance of Bally Strait.

Directions for Bally Strait; and towards Sourabaya.

TO SAIL through BALLY STRAIT from the southward towards Sourabaya, the following remarks are given by Capt. D. Thomson. When the S. E. point of Java bears about North, it sometimes appears like an island, the land to the westward not being visible in hazy weather, and this point should not be approached nearer than 3 miles, when sailing into the strait. Being abreast of the point at 4 or 5 miles distance, Goonong-Ikan Point will be seen bearing N. W., and appearing like an island, which may be passed at any convenient distance. About 9 or 10 miles North of this point, the settlement of Bangi-Wangi is situated, having good anchorage in 12 or 14 fathoms water, with the flagstaff bearing about W. by N., but ships ought not to go under 12 fathoms, the bank being steep to. In sailing through the strait from hence, endeavour to keep in mid-channel, or rather nearest to the Bally Shore as you draw to the northward, and keep Gilboang Island on the larboard hand. After passing about 2 miles to the eastward of Gilboang Island, the course to Cape Sandana is N. ½ E., distance about 5 leagues. If bound to Passurwang or Sourabaya, you may pass between the Cape and Mynder's Rocks; which may usually be seen at 3 miles distance, and lie 5 or 6 miles N. by W. from Cape Sandana: they extend East and West about ½ a mile, but not above 200 or 300 yards from North to South.

Hecate's Shoal.

From Cape Sandana to Tanjong China, a low sandy point, the course is N. W. by W., distance about 8 leagues; but care is requisite in this track, to avoid the Hecate's Shoal, which is very dangerous. H. M. ship Hecate, in May, 1812, sent an officer to examine it, who found 2½ fathoms rocks, and on some parts there appeared to be less water, resembling breakers. When upon the shoal, Tanjong China, or Point Panarukan bore N. W. by W., the highest peak over it W. S. W., Kali Puti Point, or the first to the westward of Cape Sandana E. by S., the high land over the latter E. S. E. Close to the shoal on the inside, there are 10 and 13 fathoms water, distant 3 miles from the Java shore. When the shoal was first seen, it bore W. N. W. from the ship, then in 14 fathoms; and to avoid it, a ship ought not to come under 17 or 18 fathoms water, unless she intend to pass between it and the coast.

Passurwang.

From Tanjong China to the island Katapang, the course is West, distance about 17 leagues; and 6 or 7 leagues to the westward of Katapang, lies Passurwang, where the anchorage is in 5 fathoms water, 3 or 4 miles off shore, with the flagstaff bearing from S. S. W. to S. W. by S. Here, pilots are procured for Sourabaya, but ships drawing more than 15 or 16 feet water, ought not to attempt the southern passage into that port, where there are only 12 and 13 feet muddy bottom at low water spring tides.

Lombock Strait.

Carang Assem.

LOMBOCK STRAIT, has been described in volume first of this work, under the head of "Islands to the South and S. Eastward of Java, adjacent straits and South coast;" and here, it becomes necessary to add a few remarks for the navigation of this strait. Although the tides or currents run strong through the middle of the strait, with eddies and no soundings, Let there are a few places of anchorage on each side, where ships might occasionally stop, and procure refreshments. CARANG ASSEM, on the Bally shore, at the western side of the strait, has a small stream of fresh water close to the village, where bullocks, hogs, and poultry may be got, and the contiguous country is cultivated. Captain Forrest, anchored here, in 9 fathoms sandy bottom, about ½ a mile off shore, with Bally Peak bearing N. by E.;

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and he experienced very little tide in this anchorage, when it was running 3 knots a little way out in the offing.

Ampannan Bay.

The large and deep bay of AMPANNAN, or APPENAM, situated on the Lombock side of the strait, nearly opposite to the road of Carang Assem, formed by Tanjong Rumbeeah to the northward, is 3 or 4 miles deep, and of considerable extent. H. M. S. Psyche touched here, August 3d, 1811, for which place, Mr. George Dawson, an officer of that ship, gives the following directions.

On the South side of a high remarkable bluff cape, terminating to the North and eastward a small sugar-loaf peaked hill, are situated the villages Sangeegee, Ampannan, and Tanjong Carrang, fronting a fine level country, with many small rivers, and abounding with provisions of every kind.

To sail into it.

To know this bay, and to sail into it, when coming from the northward. observe, that on with the Peak of Lombock bearing E. ½ S., there is an island with a hill on its S. E. end, which pass at 3 or 4 leagues distance, and steer eastward, not approaching the main under 6 or 7 miles, until Lombock Peak bears N. E. by E ½ E., or Bally Peak W. N. W., on account of Ampannan Bar, which is a ledge of rocks, extending from Sangeegee at the North side of the bay, in a S. S. E. direction to two small islands at the opposite side. In the plan of this coast, published by Mr. Dalrymple, 7 fathoms is marked as the least water on this ledge, but our boats found only 3 fathoms with Lombock Peak bearing E. by N., and the northern extremity of the land N. by W. ¼ W.; and the inner verge of the ledge, appears to be about 3½ miles distant from the shore.

Anchorag.

Steering in for Ampannan, with Lombock Peak bearing N. E. by E. ½ E., northern extreme N. by W., and Ampannan River E. by N., with boats sounding a-head, we had several casts of 7, 8, and 9 fathoms coral, then deepened again to 18 fathoms sand, and shoaled gradually to the shore. We first anchored in 17½ fathoms, about 3 miles off Ampannan bearing N. E. ½ E., Sangeegee Village N. N. E., Tanjong Carrang S. E. ½ S., Lombock Peak E. by N. ¾ N., extremes of Lombock from N. N.W.½ W. to S.W. by W., and Bally Peak W. N. W., but being too far off for the convenience of watering, weighed and anchored again in 14½ fathoms fine sand, with the entrance of Ampannan River bearing East distant 2 miles, Lombock Peak E. by N. ½ N., and Bally Peak W. by N. ½ N.; from this anchorage, the shoalest part of the ledge bore W. ½ S., distant 1 mile.

A ship steering in for the anchorage, should bring Lombock Peak to bear N. E. by E., and may then pass with safety over the ledge, and anchor where most convenient. Should the Peak be obscured by hazy weather, or the rising sun, the river of Ampannan being remarkable (though not the entrance) by an opening in the trees, with huts on both sides, will answer as a guide, for this opening kept E. by N. will be a good leading mark. No tide was perceptible in the road, but the descent of the water from the high land runs constantly out of the river, and the rise of tide is 7 feet; high water at 8 A. M. on full and change of the moon. Our boats could not enter the river, on account of shoal water and a heavy surf on the bar: the landing place is on the beach at the head of the bay, about a ¼ mile northward of the river, where the surf is not so high.

Fresh water river.

Provisions and refreshments.

Water is got from the river about 100 yards from the beach, by rolling the casks across a neck of land, which is always good, not being affected by the flowing of the tide. The entrance of the river is in lat. 8° 32′ 51″ S., and lies about N. N. E., taking its rise from the high land. Wood is scarce, all the land being cultivated; but provisions are got from the Captain China-man, at moderate prices, viz. fine bullocks from 300 to 400lb. at 6 to 8 dollars; pigs, poultry, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, oranges, and other tropical fruits, are procured at reasonable prices, and sometimes very cheap, also rice and arrack. A fleet of 10 or 12 ships, might be well supplied with provision and refreshments here, if they can conveniently remain a few days. This road seems to be not very safe in the N. W. monsoon, for

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Capt. Ross, in the Borneo, whilst riding here about fourteen days in that season, experienced constant blowing weather, and was nearly driven on shore.

The trade is carried on by proas of 40 to 80 tons burthen, which go and return with the monsoons to Java and other parts; the exports are chiefly rice and slaves; the latter, procured by war, among the different tribes; and the imports, opium and piece goods.

The Rajah of this part of the island, resides at Carrang Assem, about 7 miles in the interior, but Lombock is said to be governed by three different chiefs, who can muster 20,000 fighting men, many of which are trained to matchlocks of their own manufacture; and the pargalimo, or general, stated, that the population of the island exceeded 50,000. The villages have wide streets, with brick buildings for the principal inhabitants, encircled by walls about 15 feet high; and the other buildings for the inferior ranks, are large huts surrounded by a wall; the streets are lined by rows of trees, and these towns or villages, have a neat appearance.

Laboan Treeang.

LABOAN TREEANG, or TRING, is a snug bay, and seems safe, by Capt. Ashmore's description, who explored it in a Malay Proa, in 1804, from which Bally Peak bore N. W. by W. ¾ W., North point of Bally N. W. ¾ W., a reef extending some distance off shore on with Bally Peak, the houses of Ampannan just in sight. There is also another bay with from 9 to 11 fathoms over it, and an island in front of both sides: going in, there are 20 fathoms about half way from the island to the main, or a mile from the latter bearing N. W. by W., the Peak of Bally bearing N. W. ¾ W., and the Peak of Lombock N. E. by E. ½ E.

Capt. Ashmore, in May, 1804, shoaled suddenly from 11 to 4½ fathoms rock, in crossing over the bar, and the boat had 3 fathoms. The water deepened inside to 10 and 11 fathoms mud, and he anchored in 10 fathoms sand, with Bally Peak W. by N. ¾ N., extremes of Ampannan Bay from S. W. ¾ W. to N. by W., the river E. by S. ¼ S., off the town 1¼ mile.

Geo. Site of Isles off N. W. point of Lombock.

There is a high round isle off the N. W. point of Lombock, with two low isles a little to the N. Eastward; and these isles lie in lat. 8° 13′ S., lon. 115° 59′ E. by chronometers.

At a small distance off the S. W. point of Lombock, there is a rock above water; and several rocky islets front the S. W. point, and western side of Banditti Island, with a small isle near its N.W. point, which ought to have a proper birth in passing, by keeping in the middle of the strait. Green Island lies to the North of Banditti Island, towards the Bally shore, and is small.

Nearly opposite to the South end of Banditti Island, in the low land of Bally, there is a small harbour formed by some small islets, called Badong, to which the Buggis proas resort.

The Schilder's Shoal, said to lie to the northward of Lombock, probably does not exist, although a good look out is proper, when passing its assigned situation.

Tides, or currents.

The tides or currents, seem to be irregular in Lombock Strait; those which run to the northward, greatly prevailing when the winds are southerly, or light and variable. Ships, therefore, may often get quickly through the strait to the northward, whilst those bound to the southward, are liable to great delay. It has been already mentioned in one of the preceding sections, where directions are given for sailing through the Carimata Passage, that the Minerva, Brunswick, and Chesterfield, were from the 16th to the 30th of January, 1794, beating through Lombock Strait to the southward. Of late years, the preference has generally been given to Allass Strait, particularly in ships bound to the southward.

Captain Ashmore, went twice through the Western Channel, in the brig Emily, between the Bally Coast and Banditti Island, which he describes to be safe, about 6 or 7 miles wide, with soundings near the Bally shore, in some parts proper for anchorage. Padang Cove, in lat. 8° 30′ S. is small, and formed by reefs, into which the Emily moored under fours: Cassoomba Village lies to the S.W. of the latter place. and Carang Assem 2 or 2½ leagues to the N. Eastward, all on the Bally shore; but as the tides run sometimes 6 knots an hour,

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with strong eddies, and dangerous* ripplings, vessels are liable to be driven from, or lose their anchors, at either of those places. †

2d. GREAT PATER NOSTERS; STRAITS OF ALLASS, AND SAPY, WITH SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Geo. limits of Great Pater Noater Islands.

GREAT PATER NOSTERS, consist of groups or ranges, of mostly low woody islands, extending nearly E. N. E. and W. S. W., about 32 or 35 leagues: many of them being surrounded by reefs, and having shoal patches of coral stretching out a considerable distance to seaward, they are seldom closely approached, consequently very imperfectly known. The westernmost islands are situated in about lat. 7° 15′ S., lon. 117° E.; Captain Greig, of the Minto, made the S. Westernmost island in lat. 7° 32′ S., lon. 117° 16′ E. by lunar observation: the channel betwixt them and Hastings Island, mentioned in the preceding section, is about 12 leagues wide. The southernmost island, is in lat. 7° 34′ S., lon. 117° 30′ E., bearing nearly North from the West end of Pulo Majo, on the North coast of Sumbawa; and directly to the northward of the two sand banks described under the article Pulo Majo, in the sequel of the last section but one. When Pulo Majo bore from S. S. W. to S. by E. ¼ E., distant 6 leagues, Selonda Island S. S. E. ¾ E., the Ardassier saw the southernmost island of the Great Pater Nosters bearing N. N. W. ½ N., distant about 5½ or 6 leagues.

The easternmost island of the Great Pater Nosters, is situated in about lat. 6° 42′ S., lon. 118° 40′ E., which with the adjoining islands, are surrounded by reefs. When in lat. 7° 38′ S., lon. 117° 41′ E., the Minto saw one of the S. Easternmost Pater Nosters, a rocky islet bearing N. N. E., distant 5 miles; and the Dutch frigate, Maria Reygersbergen saw two of them, low and woody, which she made in lat. 7° 36′ S., lon. 117° 55′ E.

Geo. limits of the Postillions.

POSTILLIONS, consist of a large range of mostly low islands, extending about 10 leagues nearly S. E. and N. W., with reefs projecting from several of them to a considerable distance. The N. Westernmost Islands of this range situated in lat. 6° 32′ S., lon. 118° 48′ E., have been mentioned in the section, "Eastern Route to China by the Pitt's Passage, where directions are given for sailing from Batavia to the Straits of Salayer. Capt. Arrow, in the Antelope, passed on the North side within 7 miles of these islands, October 29th, 1812, and saw four of them, which were low and woody, lined with sandy beaches, apparently clear of danger, and no soundings were got in passing. The N. Westernmost island has a small lump in the centre, and this island he made in lat. 6° 32′ S., lon. 118° 45½′ E., or 1° 42½′ West from Middle Island in Salayer Straits by chronometers. The easternmost limit of these islands, in lat. 6° 45′ S., lon. 119° 15′ E. has been described near the sequel of one of the preceding sections, under the head, "Directions for Sailing from China outside of the Philippine Islands, and through the Pitt's Passage into the ocean."

There is a channel between the Postillions, and the easternmost islands of the Great Pater Nosters, through which the Pocock and some other ships have passed, in proceeding from the Strait of Macassar to Sapy Strait. With a steady wind, and favorable weather, it appears to be safe; but it is not frequented, being imperfectly known, and the islands on each side are said to have dangers lining them, without any soundings in the fair channel.

Allas Strait.

ALLAS STRAIT, called GILLEESEE by the natives, has been mentioned in Volume First of this work, where directions are given for entering it from the southward; but as this

* In May, 1805, a Dutch vessel of 75 tons burthen, in the middle of Lombock Strait, was thrown on her beam ends by the strong ripplings, and they were obliged to cut away every thing above deck, before she righted.

† The supercargo of the Emily, was assassinated at Cassoomba, in 1804, which chews that the inhabitants of these places ought not to be trusted.

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strait is more frequented than those described in the last section, particular instructions for sailing through it, with a brief description of the dangers, may prove useful.

This strait, formed between the East coast of Lombock, and the West coast of Sumbawa, extends nearly N. N. E. and S. S. W. about 15 leagues, and is about 5 or 6 miles wide in the narrowest part. It is justly preferred to any of the straits East of Java, the tides being usually moderate, with soundings stretching along the Lombock side, whereby ships are enabled to anchor when necessary.

Geo. Site of Lombock Peak.

The North part of the island Lombock is high bold land, the extremity projecting out into a point of white appearance, in about lat. 8° 11′ S.; and the peak is in lat. 8° 21½′ S., lon. 116° 26′ E., which rises in a pyramidal form to the height of about 8000 feet* above the level of the sea, with a large crater at the summit, having formerly been a volcano. The coast of Lombock that forms the strait, is low close to the sea, with plantations of cocoanut trees at the villages.

At a small distance from the N. E. end of Lombock, the Twins, two low woody islands lie parallel to it, with apparently a channel for small vessels inside of them: they are joined by a reef, and a spit projects from the South end of the southernmost island, having 6 or 8 fathoms on its extremity.

Rocky Islands.

Adjacent channels.

ROCKY ISLANDS, consist of a group of three small isles, with a contiguous islet, having reefs and a sand bank projecting from their eastern sides to the distance of 1 or 1½ mile; they are connected together by rocks, but may be approached within a small distance on the West side. Opposite to these, there is a group fronting the Sumbawa shore, called Timor Yung, or the Ten Islands; the outermost of which, are long, low, and flat, having no soundings at a small distance from them. Between these and Rocky Islands, there are soundings of 40 and 50 fathoms toward the West side of the channel, decreasing near the reefs which front the latter. This channel is about 5 or 6 miles wide, and was formerly thought to be the only one leading into the strait from the northward; but the channel on the West side of Rocky Islands, is equally safe, about 2 or 2½ miles wide between the islands and the Lombock shore, with tolerably regular soundings of 12, to 17 or 18 fathoms, rendering it very convenient for anchoring to stop tide, during contrary or light winds.

Directions.

A ship proceeding to the southward through this channel, ought to keep at least a mile from the Lombock shore, after passing between it and Rocky Islands, in order to avoid the Surat Castle's Shoal, which is a coral patch of 3 fathoms. It lies a little to the South of the point of land that bears about W. by S. from the South extremity of Rocky Islands, opposite to a fresh water creek in the bight to the southward of that point: near it on the outside, the soundings are irregular from 7 to 14 fathoms, and there are 10 and 11 fathoms inside, betwixt it and the Lombock shore. By hauling too much into the bight, the Surat Castle grounded on this spot, March 4th, 1796, but with the assistance of a fresh breeze of wind, she soon got clear off. Although the channel along the Lombock shore is safe, by keeping about 1½ or 2 miles from it; there are overfalls in several places, particularly about 3 or 4 miles to the S. S. W. of Rocky Islands, the depths are very irregular, from 25, to 10 and 7 fathoms coral rock; but there is thought to be no less than 6½ or 7 fathoms water.

Segar Village.

SEGAR, or SEEGARRA, distant about 3 leagues to the S. W. of Rocky Islands, is a small village at the South part of the bight mentioned above, having a coral bank fronting it, with good anchorage to the southward near the Segar shore. This place is said to be superior to Bally Town for procuring water, at all times of the year.

Geo. Site of Bally Town.

LOBOAGEE, or BALLY TOWN, where ships generally anchor to procure water and

* By trigonometrical admeasurement, in 1796, I made it 8,688 feet high. Capt. Ashmore, in September, 1822, made the Peak in lon. 116° 29′ E. by chronometers.

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refreshments, I made in lat. 8° 42½′ S., lon. 116° 33′ E., by a series of observations of * corroborated by chronometers, whilst at anchor in the road, in March, 1796, corresponding with the observations of several experienced navigators.* The anchorage for large ships is Anchorage. in 17 or 15 fathoms black sand, about 1½ or 2 miles off shore, with Lombock Peak bearing N. N.W., the southernmost bluff island on the Sumbawa side of the strait E. S. E., and the next to the northward E. ½ N. or E. ¾ N. These islands are the best guide to know when abreast of Bally Town, for being situated behind a tope of cocoa-nut trees, it is not easily perceived from the offing. A ship may occasionally anchor in 12 fathoms abreast of the river, but she ought not to go under 10 or 11 fathoms.

Anchorage.

Reef.

Watering river.

The town is situated on the South side of the river, which is fronted by a reef, stretching along the shore at the distance of 100 fathoms, and the proper channel through it, for long boats, is nearly opposite to the river's mouth. Small boats may cross over the reef to the southward of the town, in fine weather; but on spring tides, during the southerly monsoon, strong sea breezes produce a great surf upon the reef, and then, loaded long boats can only pass through the proper channel when more than ½ flood, or near high water. Here, they anchor inside of the reef, at the mouth of the river, and the casks are filled about 100 yards from the beach, then floated off to the boats, and taken in. The water is good, but ought not to be filled when the tide is high, for it is then brackish, Wood may be cut on the North side of the river, about ½ a mile up, and floated down the stream to the boats.

Sea breezes.

In the northerly monsoon, there is seldom any difficulty in watering at Bally Town; our pinnaces got out of the river loaded at high water, but there is not sufficient depth for long boats. During the southerly monsoon, it is often tedious getting water off from the shore; for strong southerly sea breezes, generally set in at 9 or 10 o'clock in the morning on spring tides, and continue to blow right through the strait until late in the afternoon, rendering it impossible for loaded boats to get off to ships in the road.

Tides.

The flood sets to the North and the ebb to the southward, in the road, about 1½ to 2 knots on the springs, high water about 1½ hours on full and change of the moon, but nearly 3 hours sooner upon the shore, and the rise of tide is 10 or 12 feet. The stream of tide is strongest on the Sumbawa side of the strait, where there are no soundings.

The chief of Bally Town, sometimes makes a demand of two muskets as a kind of port dues from ships which stop for water and refreshments; but he will generally be contented with articles of less value, such as a pair of pistols, and some powder; fire arms, shot, and coarse cutlery, being the articles they prefer. The inhabitants of this place and the other villages,† are friendly to English ships, where they procure bullocks at 8 or 10 dollars each, some goats, poultry, particularly ducks in great plenty; paddy, rice, pumpkins, sugar-cane, plantains, and other fruits.

Peejow Village.

PEEJOW VILLAGE, in lat. 8° 48′ S., situated about 5 miles to the southward of Bally Town, in the bay formed by the S. E. end of Lombock, is said to be a more convenient place for watering than the former, having a river navigable by boats, where the casks may be filled without landing them, and supplies be procured in great plenty. If so, the preference

* Capt. Bowman, in the Diana, at anchor in 10½ fathoms, with the town bearing W. 4° S., distant about 2 miles, observed in lat. 8° 41′ 59″ S., lon. 116° 34½′ E. by chronometers from Batavia.

† Captain Clarke, of the True Briton, was informed, that the villages in Allass Strait, and those contiguous, are named by the natives as follows, counting from the southward. On the Lombock shore, Palaba, Peejow, Loboagee, Seegarra, Lombock, and Soudeeang. The Rajah, resides at Mataran in the interior, near the other side of the island.
The villages on the Sumbawa side, are named Geravee, Tellewang, Satalow, Allass, Laboo-Padee, and Sumbawa the chief town. The inhabitants of these islands have a particular language of their own, and write on the leaves of the palm tree, with an iron style. At Bally town, they have several proas and send one annually to Singapore, Malacca, Penang. Both the islands of Lombock and Sumbawa, abound with a hardy breed of small horses.

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should probably be given to this place; it being situated in a bay, with regular soundings toward the shore, the anchorage ought to be more sheltered than Bally Road.

Capt. Ashmore, in 1805, anchored at Peejow in the Actæon, in 10 fathoms black sand, and afterward moved farther out into 16, fathoms blue clay, with the river's mouth bearing N.W. by W. W., the town N.W. ¼ N., Peak of Lombock N. N.W., off shore 2¾ miles. After crossing over the bar of the river, it opens into a basin, in which were several proas; and fresh water was procured from a well on its eastern side, but obliged to be carried about 15 yards to the boat. In March, 1804, this place was visited by 60 Lanoon, or Pirate Proas; and their depredations, together with a subsequent eruption of the peak, nearly destroyed the village.

Sumbawa coast.

Directions for sailing through the straist.

Winds.

SUM BAWA COAST, lining the East side of the strait, is all high rugged land close to the sea, and the islands fronting it, are steep to. Ships working through the strait, with steady breezes, may stand over toward these islands, in order to benefit by the strength of the tide; but with light baffling winds, they should keep in soundings near the Lombock side, to anchor if necessary, or when the tide is unfavorable. In the southerly monsoon, the wind blows generally strong through the strait from the southward during the day, abating in the evening, and veering a little off the Lombock shore. In the northerly monsoon it is variable, and not so strong; for southerly breezes sometimes prevail at the South entrance of the strait in this season, when the wind is blowing from the northward into the North entrance. The best time to weigh from Bally Road, when ships are bound to the southward in the southerly monsoon, is early in the morning, in order to get clear out with the land breeze, before the strong wind begin to blow into the entrance of the strait, about 9 or 10 A. M.

Captain Ashmore, anchored at Allass in 37 fathoms, with Lombock Peak bearing N.W. ½ N., extremes of Sumbawa from N. by W. to S. by W., the two southernmost Islands W. ¾ N. and N. N.W. ½ W., the land about the river's mouth E. ¾ N., distant about 1 mile.

Geo. Site of Timor Yung.

Should be avoided in light winds.

The low islands lining the N.W. part of Sumbawa, called by the natives Timor-Yung, are in lat. 8° 21′ S., lon. 116° 57′ E. their northern extremity, and there are villages on the easternmost of them. The True Briton and Royal Charlotte, were drifted close to these islands, by an easterly current during a calm, September 13th, 1797, and had no soundings until within a cable's length of the reef that skirts them. When the True Briton first got ground 50 fathoms, she anchored with a kedge, and had 30 fathoms under the stern, with the nearest part of the reef bearing S. by E., a large ½ cable's length distant, extremes of the low islands from S. by E. ½ E. to W. by S. ½ S., eastern extreme of Sumbawa East, and Lombock Peak W. ½ S. The first cast the boat had between the ship and reef was 25 fathoms, the next 10, then 5 fathoms, and suddenly 3 feet near the reef. A deep bay is formed light winds, by these islands, the points of which bear nearly East and West of each other; but the bottom being coral rock, renders this part of the coast unsafe to approach with light airs and easterly currents. From the numerous huts seen, there appeared to be a populous village, (probably Laboo Padee), but although the natives seemed friendly and desirous of bartering their poultry, &c. there was some reason to think that landing might not be altogether safe.

Laboo padee, and Laboo Boot.

LABOO PADEE, is a village on the N.W. end of Sumbawa, to the southward of which, about 1½or 2 miles, lies LA BOO BOOT; but having no articles of trade for Europeans, there is no inducement to visit them. Capt. Ashmore, however, anchored here, in 1804, after having passed among several shoals, and over two patches in 5 fathoms water. When at anchor in 10 fathoms sand, observed lat. 8° 24′ S., extremes of the bay from S.W. ¼ W. to N. E. ¼ N., northern island N. by E., other islands extending to W. S.W., distance off shore 1 mile. From hence to the Ten Islands, it appeared like a canal, formed by the islands and coral reefs, which they were two days in getting through. Their last anchorage in 19 fathoms, when the boat had 8 fathoms close to the ship, and were then drifting fast

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down on the northernmost of the Ten Islands, was with it bearing West 1½ mile, northern extreme of Lombock N. W.½ W.

Geo. Site of Sumbawa.

Geo. Site of Tumbora Mountain.

SUMBAWA BAY, and TOWN, lie to the eastward of these islands that line the N.W. end of Sumbawa, and to the S.Westward of Pulo Majo, or nearly South from Flat Island: the bay is large, open to the North and N.W. with reefs projecting from the land on each side, and a good harbour stretches inland, between the reefs at the West side of the entrance. The soundings decrease quickly from 40, to 20 or 15 fathoms, near the shore at the bottom of the bay, or S. Eastern part, where the town and river of Sumbawa are situated in about lat. 8° 27′ S. lon. 1 17° 24′ E. The Nonsuch from Bengal anchored here, in Aron 1791 but this place is seldom visited by English ships. Tumbora" Mountain, or Mount Aron, in lat. 8° 9′ S., lon. 117° 43′ E. by chronometers from Batavia, is situated near the island Selonda, at the N. E. point of the land that forms the eastern side of the gulf, which fronts Pulo Majo; the Strait of Sallee being formed between the latter island, and the point of land that bounds the western side of the great gulf, and separates this gulf from Sumbawa Bay. This great gulf, or bay, is not frequented by ships.

Bima Bay.

Geo. Site.

BIEMA, or BIMA BAY, situated near the N. E. end of Sumbawa, stretches to the southward 7 or 8 leagues into the island, with soundings of 60 or 80 fathoms at the entrance, which is narrow, decreasing to 20 and 15 fathoms near the town of Bima, that stands on the eastern shore of the bay, where the Dutch have a resident. The bay is bounded at the entrance, by Rugged Point to the East, in lat. 8° 11′ S., lon. 118° 51′ E., and Rocky Point to the westward, in lat. 8° 8′ S., lon. 118° 36′ E.

The Maria Reygersbergen, frigate, April 6th, 1805, anchored in Bima Bay in 26 fathoms black sand, the East point of the bay bearing N. 33° E., the N.W. point W. 29° N., the Battery W. 25° S., Watering Place W. by S., and observed in lat. 8° 23½′ S., lon. 118° 44′ E. from Batavia by chronometers.

Capt. Ross, of the Borneo, who went lately to this place, states it to be land-locked, bold to, on the west side of the entrance; and an Island lies near the bottom of the bay at the S. E. part, to the eastward of which island is the anchorage off the town.

Sapy Strait.

SAPY STRAIT, formed betwixt the East end of Sumbawa and the West side of Comodo, or Rat Island, is considered safe, and was formerly frequented by the Company's ships; but it is not so convenient, nor so spacious as Allass Strait, for the tides are rapid in the narrow part, where some rocky islets separate the strait into different small channels. The northern part is divided into two principal channels by the Island Gilibanta, which is of considerable size, having a peak near the centre, and there are some small islands in the eastern channel, betwixt it and Comodo. Brief directions for approaching this strait from southward, have been given in Volume First of this work, but a particular description now becomes necessary.

The eastern channel is little frequented, being the leeward side of the strait in the west-

* A tremendous eruption of this mountain; exceeding any thing on record of the same nature, took place, April 11th, 1815, the effects of which were felt at Sourabaya on Java, at Macassar, Amboina, and said to have reached to Batavia and Banca. On that day, April 11th, the Company's ship, Prince Regent, bound from Amboina to England, was off the island Rotto, about 340 miles from Tumbora Mountain, heard a noise like guns in the night, which they thought was from some volcanic eruption, and shortly afterward the sky became obscured, accompanied by a heavy fall of dust at 10 A. M. on the following morning, and many land birds about, and on the rigging. The dust continued falling till the 14th, then 189 miles to the westward of the place where it was first seen, but not so heavy as on the two preceding days. The duct or ashes of this eruption, spread far in every direction, reaching to Sourabaya, and great quantities fell at Bangi Wangi in Bally Strait. The island Sumbawa suffered dreadfully, whole towns, villages, population, and cattle having been destroyed, by this unaralleled phenomenon.

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erly monsoon, nearly destitute of soundings, and Comodo being high steep land, with the tide of ebb setting toward its steep rocky coast. The route through, is nevertheless, shorter than that by the other channel to the westward, and appears to be safe: it might be adopted occasionally, when ships are not in want of water, and bound out to the southward, during the S. E. monsoon; but in all other cases, the western channel between Gilibanta and Sumbawa, seems preferable.

Goonong Apee.

Geo. Site.

GOONONG APEE, or GUNONG-APEE, distant about 3 or 4 miles from the N. E. point of Sumbawa called Table Point, and bounding the North entrance of the strait on the West side, is high, formed of a large mountain, the summit of which terminates in two high peaks, one to the S. E., the other to the northward. The high sharp lava peak, on the East part of the island, generally appears double, and is situated in lat. 8° 11′ S., lon. 119° 5′ E. by the mean of many good chronometers.* Betwixt this island and Gilibanta, and a considerable way to the southward, the strait is wide and clear, until it becomes contracted by the islands to the eastward of Sapy Bay. There is a safe passage either to the North or southward of Goonong Apee.

Sapy Bay, Islands, and channels adjacent.

SAPY BAY, is bounded on the South side of the entrance, by Middle Island, and an channels adjoining island off its West end, and the long island Sintodo to the eastward. Close to the East point of Sintodo, an islet and two rocks are situated, called Booroosa Caper by some navigators. There are also some rocky islets off the East point of the Island Camara, which lie about 5 miles southward of Sintodo, bounding the West side of the entrance of the strait in coming from the eastward; and the opposite side is bounded by the S.W. point of Comodo, and its adjoining island. MATACOTE, is a small peaked island about 4 or 5 miles to the N. E. of Sintodo East point, having several rocks to the northward, called sometimes Little Matacote, and others to the westward, called Black Rocks. Low Rocks, lie about 4 miles N. ½ W. from Matacote, and 3 miles to the S. W. of the South point of Gilibanta, and are even with the water's edge. Matacote is in one with Goonong Apee Peak bearing N. 26° W. The track to the eastward of Matacote is followed at times, but the passage to the westward, between the Black Rocks and Booroosa Caper, is preferable; for, by keeping along the western side of the strait, in coming from the northward, a ship is enabled to anchor under Sintodo during the flood tide, from whence she can weigh with the first of the ebb, and work out of the strait. And a ship coming from the southward, by hauling close round Sintodo, will preserve the weather shore, avoid the low rocks, and get sooner into anchorage.

Anchorage.

A coral flat lines the North side of Sapy Bay, but the South side is safe to approach; the soundings decrease regularly from 26 or 28 fathoms at the entrance, to 17 or 18 fathoms in the upper part of the bay, about ½ a mile below rocky island. The bay here, is about 14 mile wide, where ships may occasionally anchor, and procure supplies of buffalos, goats, fowls, sweet potatoes, cocoa-nuts, &c. from Sapy town, situated by the side of a creek at the S.Western extremity of the bay. The natives will barter these articles for fire-arms, coarse cutlery, red and blue handkerchiefs, and empty bottles; but single ships ought to be guarded against any treachery from these people, particularly if they anchor far inside, and are not well armed.

Ships generally anchor in 24 or 25 fathoms at the mouth of the bay: the Dorsetshire in

* The longitude of Goonong Apee Peak, seems to be well established; Mr. Brown, chief supercargo to the Company, at Canton, made it in lon. 119° 4′ E., and 12° 13′ West of Point Pigot by three chronometers, or in lon. 119 5′ E. Capt. Torin, of the Coutts, made it also in 119° 5′ E. by chronometers from St. Paul's, and from Point Pigot in 1800. Capt. Clarke, of the True Briton, in 1796, made it in lon. 119° 6′ East, measured from Middle Island in Salayer Straits; and other navigators, have made it nearly in the same longitude, by chronometers. The Dutch frigate, Maria Reygersbergen's chronometers, made it in lon. 118° 59′ E, measured from Batavia.

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25 fathoms, had Goonong Apee Peak bearing N. ½ E., Sintodo from E. by S. to S. E. by S., Middle Islands S. ½ W. to S. W., northern extreme of Sumbawa North, Gilibanta N. E. by E. to E. by N. ½ N., and Matacote E. ¼., observed lat. 8° 29½′ S. The Coutts, when moored in 28 fathoms, December 23d, 1800, had Lava Peak on Goonong Apee bearing N. 2½° E., Gilibanta Peak E. 25° N., Black Rocks E. 4° S., Matacote E. 6° S., the rock off Sintodo E. 9° S., Middle Island from S. 4° W. to S. 23° W., Island off it S. 30° W., Sapy Bay Point S. 49° W., long boats at the watering place in Mango Bay W. 10° S., Water Bay Peak W. 18° N., and Water Bay Island N. 22° W. about 1½ mile distant. At this time, the brook in Mango Bay was found to be very much reduced, to what it was in October on a former voyage, and the water brackish till 150 yards from the beach. In Water Bay, the spring was nearly as usual. In Rees' Bay, the supply was scanty, and the taste of the water rendered unpleasant by a quantity of tree leaves in the well. But there being a large squadron of ships at this time, in company with the Coutts and Dorsetshire, they watered at all these places, and also at a considerable brook, found to the southward of Captain Rees' watering place.

Rees' and Britannia's Bay.

REES' BAY, and BRITANNIA'S BAY, are formed by the projections of the Sumbawa shore, to the northward of Sapy Bay, at either of which, ships may procure wood and water. The watering place in the cove of Rees' Bay, bears from Booroosa Caper W. 5° N., but the best anchorage is in 20 fathoms mud and sand, with it bearing about E. 2° S., to avoid the shoals inside, and along the North side of the bay. The southern part of this bay is clear of danger, but there is a bank of 6½ fathoms sand and shells at the North part, with 18 and 19 fathoms mud and sand, all around; and inside, there is a coral spot, having on it only 10 or 11 feet water.

The Watering Pond in Britannia's Bay, bearing from Booroosa Caper W. 29° N., is about 20 yards from high water mark, and small casks which can be carried by two men, are best for watering at any of these bays. As the soundings are irregular, with rocky bottom in the middle of this bay, a ship intending to water here, should anchor in 25 fathoms, about 1 mile off its northern point; for a rocky shoal stretches from the southern point of the bay nearly to Island Point, with some parts of it almost 2 miles off shore. As the points on this part of Sumbawa, have small spits projecting from them, and the bottom being generally hard sand to the northward of Island Point, a bower anchor is required to secure a ship here in the westerly monsoon.

Soundings.

There are no soundings unless very deep, near Gilibanta, the outer verge of the bank where 40 to 50 fathoms are got, stretches nearly in a direct line from Booroosa Caper to Goonong A pee, decreasing pretty regularly to 20 fathoms in most parts, from ½ to ¼ mile off the Sumbawa shore. No soundings are got in the South part of the strait, to the South of Matacote, but within ½ a cable's length of it there are 20 fathoms, and 25 fathoms between it and the low rocks adjacent, deepening to the northward.

Tides.

Hereabout, the bottom is all rocky with overfalls, and rapid tides setting past Matacote 4 and 5 knots per hour during the springs, produce strong ripplings resembling breakers, which are alarming to strangers, and the eddies may sometimes render ships ungovernable. As the Low Rocks are nearly even with the water's edge, the track between them and Matacote is not so safe as that betwixt the Black Rocks and Booroosa Caper, by keeping near Sintodo, and rounding its eastern part about the distance of a mile; for some ships have been drifted nearly on the rucks, by the rapid tides.* Although the tides set rapidly through the middle

* The Northumberland bound to China, rounded Matacote very close with a spring flood and brisk N.W. wind, in February, 1783: when the low rocks were seen from the mast-head, she bore up against the tide, and with difficulty cleared them about the distance of a cable's length. Returning from China in September, 1796, the Britannia (with a fleet of 10 sail) was passing Matacote about 1 mile to leeward, with a southerly wind and strong ebb tide; the helm was then put up, and the wind brought on the quarter, but the ship not stemming the tide, and judging by its rapidity that there was a clear channel, she passed betwixt the middle rock and Matacote. Two ships of the fleet, passed to the eastward of Matacote, but all the others went between the Black Rocks and Booroosa Caper. The Cornwallis, in August, 1796, hound to the southward, found the tide setting very strong to the S. E. on her approach to the westernmost rocks; and after tacking within 100 yards of them, she stood S. by W. close to a range of breaking water, which extends 2½ miles to the southward of the rocks. This seems to have been only a strong rippling occasioned by the rapid tide, which they apprehended might be a reef; and seeing deep water to the southward, they hauled in for it, worked close round the N. E. point of Sintodo with a very strong gale at S. E., and passed the eastern rock off Camara Island, about the distance of a cable's length.

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of the strait, the flood to the northward, and the ebb to the southward, they become much weaker within the verge of soundings near the N. Eastern part of Sumbawa, and there is very little tide in the bays. It is high water in Britannia's, and in Water Bay, about 1 hour on full and change of the moon, and the rise of tide is said to be 11 or 12 feet.

Winds.

The winds are variable in Sapy Strait, forming a kind of land and sea breezes, those from the westward prevailing in the westerly monsoon; and during the opposite season, strong breezes blow into the strait from the southward, great part of the day.

To sail through Sapy Strait, and toward the Straits of Salayer.

Ships bound to the northward, after passing along the western side of Sapy Strait, should borrow toward the East side of Goonong Apee, which is bold to approach. If the route through Salayer Straits is to be pursued, care must be taken to keep well to windward in layer crossing over for Salayer; because, a strong easterly current generally prevails in the westerly monsoon, when the wind blows with much strength. From this cause, several ships have fallen to leeward of the islands fronting the South end of Salayer, at different times, and were obliged to pass along the East side of that island; whilst others have steered to the eastward on the north side of Flores, which is preferable.

Ships steering from Sulayer's Straits, toward the Strait of Sapy in the southerly monsoon, ought to endeavour to fall in with the N. E. point of Comodo, situated in about lat. 8° 22′ S., and 32½ miles East of Goonong Apee Peak by chronometers.

Mangerye Strait.

Alligator Bay.

Mangrove Harbour.

MANGERYE STRAIT, formed between the West end of Flores and the numerous small islands that front the East side of Comodo, is 7 or 8 leagues in length, and not frequented; for the clusters of islands with which it is studded, render it an intricate navigation. The S.W. point of Flores, situated in about lat. 8° 50′ S., forms the eastern boundary of this strait in coming from the southward; and Aligator Bay is 4 or 5 miles to the N.W. of that point, being only about ¼ mile wide, with soundings of 50 fathoms at the entrance, decreasing inside to 20 and 15 fathoms, mostly sand and coral. Mr. Dalrymple anchored here, in the Cuddalore schooner, in 1761, and found fresh water in the cove round the bluff point that forms the East side of the bay. The cove called Mangrove Harbour, is about 1½ mile to the northward of Aligator Bay, being a ¼ mile wide at the entrance, with soundings of 17 to 12 fathoms near the southern shore, decreasing to 7 or 8 fathoms inside. Here, it is about ⅛ of a mile wide, and there is a fresh water stream at the N. E. extremity. Close to the entrance of this cove, lies an islet, contiguous to a Saddle Island; and about 2 miles outside, West Island is situated, having a peuk on it: there is a coral shoal of 1 fathom, inside of this island, with 30 and 40 fathoms water between it and the shore of Mangerye.

3d. DESCRIPTION OF FLORES; ISLANDS, DANGERS, AND STRAITS ADJACENT; WITH SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Flores Islands.

Geo. Site of the South coast.

FLORES, ENDE, or MANGERYE, is an extensive island, being about 70 leagues in length East and West, and 14, or 15 leagues broad in some parts. From the S.W. point, near Aligator Bay and the entrance of Mangerye Strait, the South coast stretches East and E. by S. to about lon. 121° 30′ E., which is the southernmost part of the island, and situated

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in lat. 8° 58′ S. or 9° 0′ S. The coast from hence, stretches East a considerable way, and then E. by N. and E. N. E. to the Volcano Mountain of Lobetobie, which stands near the S. E. point of the island. This coast is steep to, no soundings being found, except in some of the bays very near the shore; and there appear to be no dangers projecting far out. Tower Island, fronting the coast at a small distance, and situated about 12 leagues to the eastward of the S.W. point of Flores, rises almost perpendicularly from the centre in a high peak. To the eastward of this island about 15 leagues, there is a high volcano mountain in the vicinity of the coast, and a remarkable peak about 8 or 9 leagues to the westward of the S. E. extremity of Flores.

Port of Ende.

Ende, situated near the middle of the South coast, although little known, is said to be principal port of the island, capable of holding any number of ships, and is very safe. It was taken possession of, by a colony of Buggese, about fifteen years ago, who have revolted against the European authorities, and decline trading with Copang. This is the only safe harbour on the South sides of the islands between the coast of Java and Ombay.

The channel betwixt Sandalwood Island and the South coast of Flores, is about 10 or 12 leagues wide, and clear of danger.

Geo. Site of the East end of Sandalwood Island.

SANDALWOOD ISLAND, or JEEN DANA, has been partly described in volume re first of this work; but a farther description is necessary, particularly of the bay near the East end of the island. The eastern extremity of this island, is in lat. 10° 0′ S., lon. 120° 45′ E. by mean of the chronometers and lunar observations taken in several ships;* and it is thought to be bold and safe to approach in this part.

The channel formed betwixt its eastern extreme, and New Island, Banjoan, and Savu, is wide and clear of danger.

The coasts of Sandalwood Island, are generally steep to, and no soundings are got until near the shore in some places; but there is anchorage in the large bay, formed on the N. E. side of the island.

Padewawy Bay.

PADEWAWY, or BARING'S BAY, in about lat. 9° 37′ S., situated at the N. E. part of Sandalwood Island, about 4 or 5 leagues West from its N. Eastern extremity, affords anchorage in the western part, off the mouth of Padewawy River; but no soundings are obtained until within 1½ or 1 mile of the shore. H. M. ships Leopard and Thames, steering to the eastward along the North side of Sandalwood Island, December 28th, 1790, saw a fine sandy bay near the N. E. end of the island; they hauled in, had no ground 50 fathoms about 1½ and 2 miles off shore, but on approaching nearer, got soundings. The Leopard anchored in 15 fathoms, with the extremes of the land bearing from E. by S. to the N.W. point of the bay N. N.W. ½ W. The Thames anchored in 16 fathoms coarse sand, and moored with the kedge, the extremes bearing from E. by S. to N.W. by N., the mouth of the river West, distant ½ a mile, which is a good birth, and convenient anchorage during the westerly monsoon. These ships remained here four days, wooded and watered convenieutly with their launches in the river, and each of them was presented with a buffalo from the chief of the place.

The Dutch charts, place a shoal stretching ont from the East point of this bay, which ought to have a birth; a great swell rolls into the bay at times, during the easterly monsoon, in which season, the anchorage here, appears to be inconvenient.

Geo. Site of the South point of the Islands.

The southernmost point of Sandalwood Island, is in lat. 10° 22′ S., lon. 120° 20′ E. by chronometer; and to the westward of this point, there is a group of isles surrounded by

* The mean of lunar and chronometric observations, taken in the Thames, Bucclettgh, Carnatic, and Glatton, made it in lon. 120° 35′ E.; but Capt. Ashmore, in 1822, made it in lon. 120° 52′ E. by two chronometers; and the mean of his position and the former, 120° 42′ E. or 120° 45′ E., is probably nearest the truth.

VOL. II. X x x

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shoals, which extend 3 or 4 leagues from the coast, consequently, dangerous to approach in the night.

Capt. Ashmore, in 1822, after approaching the East end of the island, coasted along the northern side, to the westward, September 28th and 29th, and was carried close to the reef that lines the N.W. part, during a calm, and had a cast of soundings 31 fathoms sand and coral. He made the western extreme of the island in lon. 119° 1¾′ E. by chronometers.

Route along the North coast of Flores.

Geo. Site of the S.E. Schiedam Island.

THE ROUTE alone the NORTH COAST OF FLORES, is sometimes adopted by ships going from Sapy Strait toward the Pitt's Passage; it is also frequented by Dutch ships, bound from Batavia to Amboina or Banda, late in the season, in March or April; likewise when returning in June, July, and August. Captain Forbes, of the Sibbald, bound to Amboina, after reaching Boele Comba at the South part of Celebes, finding the currents running constantly through the Straits of Salayer to the westward, steered to the southward on the West side of Salayer, and then proceeded along the North coast of Flores, where the current was found to set East and N. Eastward while near this coast, from the 17th to the 20th of April, 1816. When this route is to be followed, it is prudent to keep within a moderate distance of the coast of Flores, in order to avoid the islands and dangers to the northward. The westernmost of these, are the SCHIEDAM ISLANDS, one of which, in lat. 7° 1′ S., lon. 120° 28′ E., has been mentioned in a preceding section, marked "Directions for sailing from China, outside of the Philippine Islands, and through the Pitt's Passage, into the ocean." The other, or S. E. Schiedam Island, is in lat. 7° 12′ S., lon. 120° 56′ E., by observations taken in the Boddam; they are both of considerable size, and may be discerned 7 or 8 leagues.

Schiedam Shoal.

Geo. Site.

SCHIEDAM SHOAL, on which the Dutch brig Mary Anne, Capt. Martin, was wrecked in the night, March 9th, 1820, when proceeding from Batavia towards Amboina with stores and specie belonging to the Government, was found to extend from East to West 5 or 6 miles, and 3 or 4 miles from North to South, having rocks at the southern part a little above water: on the shoal observed lat. 7° 27′ S., lon. 121° 13′ E., the S. E. Schiedam Island bearing froth N.W. by W. ½ W. to North, distant 4 or 5 miles, Panjang or South Island of the Kalatoa Group, in sight from the wreck bearing E. by N. A channel was found between the shoal and the S. E. Schiedam Island.

Gee. Site or Kalatoa. Adjoining Islands.

KALATOA* ISLAND, in lat. 7° 12′ S., lon. 121° 43′ E., by observations taken in the Boddam, distant about 15 leagues eastward of the S. E. Schiedam Island, is of moderate height, and may be seen 7 leagues; it is the largest of a group of islands, having reefs projecting from some of them, and a shoal on which the Alfred struck in lat. 7° 9′ S., about 2 leagues off the N.W. part of Kalatoa, and near Great Crompa. The northern islands of

* This island is of considerable size, and called Old Klaut by the Dutch; it and the neighbouring islands are inhabited by a perfidious race, who continued for 14 days after the loss of the Ocean, to promise daily to Captain Patton, their proas to carry his crew to Amboina, having plenty of these vessels on the East side of the island. They appeared, however, only to wait a convenient opportunity to massacre the crew of the Ocean, but fortunately this was prevented, by keeping a strong guard and a good look out in the night, and having some six-pounders mounted close by the tents. When Captain Patton was certain of the treachery of these people, he resolved to take some proas by force, but to pay a reasonable sum for the use of them, in transporting his crew to Amboina. With this view, an armed party was sent to the East side of the island, and in the act of seizing the proas, they were attacked by the natives, had 7 men killed and wounded, and they killed about the same number of the Malays, but were obliged to return without the proas. A Macassar man was at the island at this time with some proas, who agreed to take part of the Ocean's crew to Amboina; and two days after the affray, Captain Patton, with his crew, embarked in the might into the proas and the Ocean's long boat, unperceived by the natives. They left this inhospitable island on the 19th of February, and arrived on the 28th at Amboina.

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the group, are called Great and Little Crompa: the southern one called Panjang or Madoo, lies close to the southward of Kalatoa, having a reef projecting a great way out from its western side, and there is a channel betwixt it and the South end of Kalatoa about 2 or 3 miles wide, with soundings in one part of 6½ to 12 fathoms, as experienced by the Boddam in passing through. About 6 or 7 leagues eastward of this channel, lies a small island called the Post Horse, having a reef extending about 1½ mile from its eastern side.

A caution to Ships sailing from Allass or Sapy Straits in blowing weather.

As a caution to ships approaching these islands in blowing weather, it may be useful to describe the dangerous mistake of the fleet in 1796, which caused the unfortunate loss of the Ocean. This fleet worked out of the northern entrance of Allass Strait, January 31st, and cleared it at 4 P. M., then blowing hard at N.W. with much rain, which weather continued during the 24 hours. At noon, by indifferent observations, they were in lat. 7° 16′ S., lon. 119° 50′ E., having experienced about 60 miles of easterly current in 20 hours.

From hence, they steered N. E. 7 miles, and saw the N.W. Schiedam Island to the eastward about 4 leagues distant, hauled to the S. E. and southward, to give a birth to it and the other Schiedam Island, which was afterward seen: they were under close reefed topsails at this time, the wind blowing hard at W. N.W. with rain and severe squalls, and unfortunately these islands were mistaken for the Postillions. From having the southern extreme of the islands bearing East at 5 P. M, they steered S. by E., S. E., and E. S. E., 21 miles, and E. N. E., N. E., and North 24 miles, to round them, when at 2 A. M., land was seen N. N. E. very close. They immediately wore, but some of the ships perceiving breakers a-head, wore again, set courses, and continued working till day-light. The Alfred and Woodford struck, but fortunately backed off; the Canton, Boddarn, and Taunton Castle, kept off the islands and reefs, by carrying a press of sail; but not being able to round the southern Island Madoo, and the reef that projects from its western part, some of them were forced to push through betwixt that island and Kalatoa in the morning, and found the channel safe.

The Ocean was driven by the strong current on the reef lining the West side of Kalatoa, and unfortunately became a wreck before day-light, notwithstanding every effort was made to keep off, by carrying a press of sail. The reefs contiguous to these islands, appear to be steep to, as no soundings were got, excepting a few casts in the channel betwixt Kalatoa and Madoo.

Shoals to the northward of Flores.

To the southward of the Schiedam and Kalatoa Islands, there are two dangerous shoals, with some islands adjacent to the North coast of Flores, now to be described.

Geo. Site of Bangalore's Shoal.

JAAGER'S REEF, or BANGALORE'S SHOAL, situated at a considerable distance off the N.W. part of Flores, appears to be in about lat. 7° 40′ S., although the true position of this danger is not correctly known. The ship Bangalore, bound from Amboina toward Allass Strait, struck upon this shoal at 9 P. M., April 12th, 1802; the anchor was carried out with a whole cable, but from the steepness of the coral bank, the anchor appeared only a-peak, and the ship soon bilged and became a wreck. At day-light, the shoal was found to extend North and South about 3 miles, and in breadth 2 miles, dry at low water on the western part, with rocks resembling proas under sail. From the wreck on the shoal, Flores or Mangerye bore from S.W. to E. S. E. distant 10 or 12 leagues, an island near Flores forming like a dome S. S.W. 7 or 8 leagues, and an island supposed Schiedam N.W. 8 or 10 leagues. If this was the S. E. Schiedam Island, the shoal seems to be situated about 18 miles to the eastward of it, by the bearing and estimated distance, or in about lon. 121° 13′ E.; whereas, if the island seen bearing S. S.W. was Rusa Raji, the shoal ought to lie about 7 or 8 miles to the eastward of its meridian, or in lon. 121° 46′ E.: the true situation of this danger, is therefore, very uncertain.

The Malays who navigate hereabout, describe this shoal to be situated to the northward of Rusa Raji, which island is formed of a high gaped hill at the eastern part; but the western

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part being rather low, is called Cakke, or the Foot, by these people, which they say should not be sunk from an elevation of 10 or 12 feet (the height of their proas) in passing to the northward of the island, in order to avoid the foregoing shoal.

Geo. Site of Angelica's Shoal.

ANGELICA'S SHOAL, was seen by the ship of this name, July 3d, 1801, in her passage from Amboina, and the following extract is from Captain Don's journal. Saw a shoal bearing from S. by W. to W. N. W., bore up to the northward of it; on our approach, three proas at anchor on the shoal, weighed and made sail. This shoal is about 4 miles in extent, of circular form, the North and South ends of it nearly dry: it is in lon. 122° 18′ E., bearing from Kalatoa S. E. ¾ E. distant about 8 leagues. If the position of Kalatoa, by the observations taken in the Boddam, is correct, this bearing and distance would place Angelica's shoal in lat. 7° 35′ S., lon. 121° 58′ E.; but if the island seen was the Post Horse, mistaken for Kalatoa (which might probably happen), the shoal in such case, ought to be situated in about lat. 7° 40′ S., lon. 122° 18′ E., agreeing with the position assigned to it by

Directions for sailing along the North coast of Flores.

A SHIP proceeding to, or from Sapy Strait, by the route along the North coast of Flores, ought to borrow within a few leagues of this coast, in order to avoid these shoals which lie to the northward. It is proper to remark, that the North coast of Flores (like that of Sumbawa), including Ombay, are considerably to the southward of the parallel of lat. 8° S.

The Castlereagh, Captain Gardner, from Bombay, proceeding by the route along the North coast of Flores, observed at noon, December 30th, 1808, in lat. 8° 8′ S., lon. 121° 12′ E. by chronometer, the Island Rusa Raji then in sight bearing E. by S. ½ S. From this situation, they steered S. E. by E. 27 miles, E. S. E. 3 miles, and passed between that island and the coast of Flores, in a fine channel about 4 leagues wide, but got no soundings.

Geo. Site of Rusa Raji.

RUSA RAJI, called LUSARADY by the Dutch, in lat. 8° 17′ S., lon. 121° 38′ E. by chronometer, when bearing North about 4 or 5 miles distant, appeared bold to approach, of a high round sloping aspect, covered with trees to the summit, and lights were seen upon it in the night: on either side of this island, the channel is equally safe, but the S. E. part is lined by a reef, with a single tree on it. The frigate Maria Reygersbergen made it in lat. 8° 14′ S., lon. 121° 39½′ E. by chronometer from Batavia.

The Sibbald, passed to the northward of it, April 19th, 1816, and made it in lat. 8° 18′ S., lon. 121° 38′ E. by chronometers. At noon, 18th, the observed lat. 8° 9′ S., lon. 121° 17′ E., when the centre of Rusa Raji bore S. S. E., distant 7 or 8 leagues, and a remarkable peak or smoking volcano on Flores S. by W. At noon, 19th, the observed lat. 8° 7′ S., lon. 121° 53′ E. by chronometer, when the body of Rusa Raji bore S. 50° W. distant about 6 leagues, and the body of Rusa Linguete E. ½ N., which bears from the former N. E. by E. ¼ E., same time saw land bearing about N. by E., supposed to be the island Madoo, where the Ocean was lost, or the Port Paart of the Dutch.

Geo. Site of Rusa Linguete.

RUSA LINGUETE, called ROSAGALET by the Dutch, in lat. 8° 5′ S., lon. 122° 0′ E.,* the centre, by the Sibbald's chronometers, and in lon. 122° 6½′ E. by the Maria Reygersbergen's chronometer from Batavia, is of considerable height and extent, having the appearance of a saddle in some views; off its N. E. part, lies a small island, and from the S.W. and South part, a dry sand and reef projects about 2 miles, or upwards. The Castlereagh, after passing on the South side of Rusa Raji and Rusa Linguete, had the latter bearing North

* The Castlereagh supposed it to be in lon. 122° 26′ E. when passing in the night, which appears to be too much easterly. Both it and Rusa Raji are inhabited.

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at 2 A. M., distant about 2 leagues, and from hence steered N. E. ¾ N. 16 miles till daylight, when Rusa Linguete bore W. by S. ½ S., and Flores Head E. ¼ S.

Directions.

Three Bastards, Forsaken Islands, and

The Sibbald passed on the North side of these islands, the channel outside, being equally safe as that between them and Flores, but the inner channel seems preferable in the night, on account of the Bangalores, and Angelica's Shoals. Ships, however, which sail along the North coast of Flores in the night, ought not to borrow too close, on account of several small islands, stretching along it nearly from Flores Head westward, and opposite to Rusa Linguete; among which, the Three Bastards, and Duffer or Forsaken Island, lie in lat. 8° 14′ and 8° 16′ S., and 7 or 8 leagues to the westward of Flores Head, by observations taken and in the frigate Maria Reygersbergen.

Passeleurang Reef.

The Dutch colonial schooner Calypso, was wrecked on a reef called PASSELEURANG April 28th, 1824, which is said to lie about 5 miles S.W. by W. from Rusa Linguete She left Amboina, April 18th, bound to Batavia, and had adverse winds several days before she struck at midnight on the reef: part of the crew were saved in the boats, but afterward made prisoners by the pirates, and who were ultimately released by the intercession of the Rajah of Bonerate, excepting three Europeans and six Javanese. Ships passing between Rosa Raji and Rusa Linguete, or in approaching the latter bearing to the N. Eastward, ought to be on their guard to avoid the reef of Passeleurang, last mentioned.

Geo. Site of Flores Head.

FLORES HEAD, or IRON CAPE, in about lat. 8° 5′ S., lon. 123° 2′ E. by the Castlereagh's observations,* is high bold land, terminating the N. Eastern extremity of Flores, and bounding the West side of the approach to the strait of the same name, when coming from the northward. This cape, is situated about 11 or 12 leagues to the East of Rusa Linguete; the Castlereagh, from having the island last mentioned, bearing North at 2 A. M., distant about 2 leagues, steered N. E. ¾ E. 16 miles to day-light, the Island Rusa Linguete then bore W. by S. ½ S., and Flores Head E. ¼ S.

April 20th, 1816, in the Sibbald at noon, observed lat. 7° 47′ S., lon. 122° 50′ E. by chronometers, Flores Head, the centre half, bearing S. ½ W., Lobetobie Peak S. E. by S., Sebrao Peak S. E. ¼ E., and Pulo Comba E. ¼ N.

Strait of Flores.

STRAIT OF FLORES, is bounded on the West side, by the eastern part of the island Mangerye or Flores, and on the East side by the islands Solor, and Adenara or Sabraon; and it extends nearly N. N. E. and S. S.W. 10 or 12 leagues. The South entrance, formed between the island Solor and the S. E. part of Flores, is sometimes called the Strait of Lobetobie; and the northern entrance, formed betwixt the island Adenara and the N. E. part of Flores, is called Larantuca Gut by the Portuguese, where they had formerly a settlement of this name, at the foot of the adjoining high mountain.

In some parts of the strait, where a ship may occasionally anchor, the bottom is in general rocky; and the tides being very rapid in the northern entrance, which is very contracted, large ships ought not to pursue the route through this strait, except in a case of necessity. A fleet of six ships,† bound from Europe to China, did however pass through it in 1797–8, from the journals of which, the following remarks are chiefly taken; particularly, from the observations made by Captain Williams of the Thames.

Geo. Site of the South entrance.

South entrance of the Strait of Flores, situated in lat. 8° 40′ S., lon. 123° 3′ E., cannot be mistaken by any person who has previously seen it. A stranger intending to proceed into this strait during the westerly monsoon, should after passing Sandalwood Island, haul in for

* The Sibbald's chronometer placed it in about lon. 122° 48′ E., and the, frigate Maria Reygersbergea made it in lon. 122° 46′ E.; but their observations appear to be too much westerly; the mean of the whole 122° 52′ E. is probably near its true longitude.

† Glatton, Buccleugb, Carnatic, Thames, Walmer Castle, and Royal Charlotte.

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the coast of Flores, and approach it pretty close when within 5 or 6 leagues of the entrance of the strait.

Sailing Directions.

This part of Flores consists of a chain of high mountains, and in coasting along to the eastward, a high round isle will be discerned, which is situated directly in the mouth of the strait, and must be passed on the West side. This isle is steep to, having no ground near it at 90, or 95 fathoms; a little to the eastward of it, there is a ledge of rocks generally called SUNKEN ROCKS, part of which is visible above water; and other islets and rocks, front the South end of Solor to the eastward of the strait. At a small distance inside of the high round isle, or outermost isle, two other rocky islets form the passage, which are seen when the strait is open: they bear E. N. E. and W. S. W. from each other, distant ½ a mile or more, and soundings of 40 to 30 fathoms were got by the fleet, when passing in mid-channel between them; but the common passage is on the East side of these two islets.

The point of Flores forming the West side of the entrance of the strait, is remarkable, being of green aspect, resembling a gunner's quoin, and is situated at the foot of the high volcano mountain of Lobetobie; which may be discerned at a great distance, and is generally seen burning in the night. A reef projects a considerable way from the green point of Lobetobie, with 9 fathoms water close to it, according to the Dutch charts; which ought to have a wide birth, and the lead kept going.

After passing the two inner islets, the fleet carried soundings from 40 to 27 fathoms, decreasing regularly toward the shore; and in the evening, when 4 or 5 miles inside of the islets, they hauled in for the Solor side of the strait, and anchored in from 15 to 35 fathoms, coarse sand, shells, and coral. The Glatton in 28 fathoms, had the Middle Isle in the South entrance of the Strait bearing S. by W. ½ W., the other two about equal distance on each side, volcano of Lobetobie W. ½ S., and the high mountain of Larantuca N. ½ E.: observed lat. 8° 30′ S. by the Glatton, 8° 32′ S. by the Carnatic, and the tide set regularly N. by E. and S. by W. about 2½ miles per hour. In attempting to land on Solor, the natives were found hostile, firing some arrows from the bushes at the boats; but they probably considered the ships to be Dutch, who carry away the inhabitants when opportunity offers, to sell as slaves at Batavia.

From the above anchorage, the fleet weighed at noon, December 26th, 1796, steered N.E. by N. and N. E. ½ N. in soundings 25, to 35 and 40 fathoms; then no ground, until they hauled in to anchor, near the eastern or Adenara shore, where they got 26 fathoms about ¾ mile off, decreasing fast to 20 and 18 fathoms.

The Glatton anchored in 17 fathoms, Larantuca Peak N.W. by W., centre of the northern entrance of the strait N. N. E., the low point of the Larantuca shore which forms the passage N. by E. ½ E., the point of Adenara on the other side N. E. by N. 3 or 4 miles distant, which has cocoa-nut trees to the water's edge, Adenara South point S. by W. 3 miles, and the N.W. point of Solor which forms the South side of the strait of that name S. S.W. This is a small bay where the fleet anchored in bad ground, for the bottom is mostly coral rock and coarse sand: the tides were found to be weak, with eddies near the shore; but farther out in the stream, they set N. N. E. and S. S.W. from 4 to 6 miles per hour, and rise 8 or 9 feet. The middle of the bay is the best ground, for two ships of the fleet lost anchors by the rocky bottom, which occasioned the loss of bowsprit and other damage to the Buccleugh, from the Walmer Castle driving foul of her. This accident detained the fleet here, until the 4th of January, 1797. The Glatton's boat found 8 fathoms water close in shore abreast of the ship, but a shoal spit projects from the point about ¾ mile to the S. E., with only 2 fathoms on it about 1 or 1½ cable's length off shore.

Larantuca Village.

LARANTUCA VILLAGE, situated on the opposite shore of Flores, can supply two or three ships with refreshments, such as goats, hogs, fowls, fruits of various kinds, a few buf-

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falos, and some turtle: fresh water may also be procured from wells here, and near the mouth of the gut. In return for these articles, the natives will receive gunpowder in small quantities, musket-balls, glass bottles, wine glasses, white linen cloth, and all sorts of coarse cutlery. They collect here, small quantities of wax, bezoar, and ambergrease, which is sent in small proas to Timor, and other places, and purchased by the Chinese traders.

Anchorage.

The inhabitants of this village, generally hoist a Portuguese flag, and probably may accompany it with an English jack, when any of our ships are passing through the strait. They, as well as the inhabitants of the village of Adenara, profess christianity, having been converted by the Portuguese missionaries, above a century ago.

The anchorage in Larantuca Road, in 15 or 16 fathoms, about 1 or 2 cable's lengths off the shore, to the southward of the village, is thought to be safer then the anchorage on the Adenara side, but the bottom is generally coral and sand, throughout the strait.

Strait of Solor.

On the West side of the strait, there are two bays with an island in each, and the Strait of Solor is formed on the eastern side, betwixt the island Solor and Adenara, which is a passage of 3 or 3½ miles wide, leading to the Dutch Gut. There are soundings in this passage, by keeping toward the North side of Solor, but a spit projects from its N. E. point; and when the shore is closely approached, there are overfalls from 4 to 9 fathoms. Large Dutch ships, sometimes adopt this passage, after coming into the South entrance of the Strait of Flores, and proceed out to the northward through the Dutch Gut. The Jane, after passing along the North coast of Flores, entered Flores Strait from the northward, passed through Solor Strait, then to the southward between the islands Solor and Lomblen, in April, 1706, on her route to Timor.

All these islands, being high and mountainous, ships passing through the straits formed by them, are subject to calms, and sudden strong gusts of wind of short duration.

To sail through Larantuca out.

From the above anchorage, near Larantuca, the fleet weighed about noon, January 4th, with the first of the flood, which is the best time to weigh: having a light breeze at S.W., they drove through Larantuca Gut under top-sails, with boats a-head towing, keeping nearly in mid-channel, or rather nearest to the eastern shore. The soundings in passing through were from 17 to 20 fathoms, but some ships nearest the shore, had only 10 fathoms.

The tides are very rapid, and set nearly direct through the gut, which is only ½ or ¾ of a mile wide. It appears dreadful to strangers, although the channel seems safe, and there are 7 fathoms water close to the point on the eastern side; yet, considering the rapidity of the tides in this very contracted channel, it seems not an advisable passage for large ships.

When ships coming from the southward, approach the outer point seen on the Flores shore, they should be careful to haul well over to the eastern side of the gut in passing that point, because the tide setting strong round it, will be liable to horse them into the bight of the Flores shore outside of the point, which is shoal all over.

Adenara Village.

ADENARA VILLAGE, is situated on the N.W. side of the island of this name, a little way outside of the gut of Larantuca. Refreshments, and grain for stock may be procured here; ships coming from the northward, may steer for, and anchor off this village, where they can get out the boats, and take every precaution requisite, before they proceed into the gut.

To the N.W. of Adenara, on the West side of the channel leading to the gut, and nearest to the Flores shore, the small low island Serbette is situated, which ought to have a good birth on account of its surrounding shoal spots, some of which are dry. When this island bore N.W. by W., the village of Adenara bore S. E. by S., distant 3 or 4 miles, and pulo Comba N. E. ½ E.

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Geo. Site of Pulo Comba.

PULO COMBA, or CAMBAY,* is a high round island about 2 miles in extent, bearing N. E. ½ E. from the North entrance of the Strait of Flores or Larantuca Gut, distant 11 or 12 leagues, and nearly North from the Dutch Gut. Captain Heywood, made it in lat. 7° 49′ S., lou. 123° 41′ E. or 4° 34′ West from Amboina Flagstaff by chronometers. It is an excellent guide for ships coming from the Banda Sea, when bound through the Strait of Flores, or along the North coast of this island, and may be passed on either side at any convenient distance, being bold to approach; but ships ought to pass it on the East side, in steering for the strait during the easterly monsoon.

Zemanro Gut, and

Dutch Gut.

ZEMANRO GUT, formed between the N. E. part of Solor Island and the S.W. end of Lomblen, is 3 or 4 miles wide, and seems to be a safe passage. On the East side of the entrance, there is an islet with some shrubs on it, situated about ¾ of a mile from the S.W. point of Lomblen, called the Devil's Rock; and a hole is seen through it, when bearing N.W. ½ N. or N.W. by N. The northern part of this passage, called the DUTCH GUT, formed between the N.W. end of Lomblen and the eastern part of Adenara, has been already mentioned in describing the Strait of Flores. Islets and shoals project from the N. E. point of Adenara, and bound the West side of the channel in passing out to the northward. There are soundings in some parts of the Zemanro and Dutch Guts, but although this passage is said to be frequented by large Dutch ships, it is little known to English navigators, the Jane, being the only ship of this country, known to have passed twice through Zemanro Gut, in her route to, and from Timor.

The N. E. point of Solor and S.W. point of Lomblen, which form the Gut of Zemanro, bear N. ½ W. and S. ½ E. from each other, distant about 2½ leagues.

Geo. Site of Lomblen Peak.

Site of LOMBLEN, is an island of considerable extent N. E. and S.W., consisting mostly of high bold land; and the high conical peak at the N.W. part, which may be seen 16 or 17 leagues, is in lat. 8° 12′ S., log. 123° 52′ E. by chronometer from Amboina. The South coast extends nearly East and West about 5 leagues, and both the North and South coasts, seem bold to approach.

Strait of Alloo.

STRAIT, or GUT OF ALLOO, bounded by the island Lomblen to the N.W. and westward, and by Pantar to the eastward, is thought to be a safe passage, but destitute of soundings. It is frequented by the Junks and vessels which trade from Macassar to Timor, and by those also, that trade from Macao to the same place. Dampier passed through it in 1688, and again in 1700; but being little known to English navigators, the fallowing remarks may be useful, which were communicated by an able, and experienced naval officer.†

* Called North Hattery, by the Dutch frigate, Maria Reygersbergen, which she places in lat. 7° 58′ S., and 48 miles East of Flores Head; and another island, situated at the entrance of the Dutch Gut, and called South Hattery, by this ship, she made in lat. 8° 7′ S., and 19 miles East of North Hattery by chronometers.

† Captain Heywood, sailed from Amboina late in February, 1803, in H. M. S. Dedaigneuse, bound to Hindoostan. He stood to the S. Westward, made Velthoen's Island, and entered the strait of Alloo with a leading wind, March 3d, with the intention of proceeding through it. Having rounded the East point of Lomblen about 1 mile distant, and got into the channel betwixt East Island and Lomblen, he meant to have passed along the Lomblen side of the strait, to the westward of Middle Island; or to the eastward of the latter, if laid off by the wind. But as night approached, the wind veered to S.W. with squalls and rain, and having a brig in tow, he thought it highly imprudent to beat about in a dark night, in an unexplored narrow strait, probably subject to strong tides; he therefore steered out of the strait, and proceeded round the North and East sides of Ombay, then to the S.W. betwixt it and Timor. He thus concludes, relative to the Strait of Alloo. "With a leading wind, I have no doubt that the passage through this strait is perfectly safe, and I should prefer it to the Strait of Pantar at this season, being farther to windward, much wider, and the land on each side not so high; consequently, less liable to calms, squalls, and irregular currents of wind or water." Captain Heywood, took wanly angular bearings whilst in the vicinity of these straits and islands, and constructed a chart of them.

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Geo. Site of the N. E. Point of Pantar.

Geo. Site of the East point of Lomblen.

PANTAR ISLAND, extending N. E. and S.W. about 8 leagues, is of considerable height, having a peak at the eastern part somewhat elevated above the rest of the island. The N. E. point is in lat. 8° 10′ S., lon. 124° 25′ E, by chronometer from Amboina, and the land to the westward indents into two small bays between it and the N.W. point, which forms into a little peak. About 3 or 4 miles N. by E. from the N.W. point of Pantar, there is situated a small round island, called Green Island, remarkable by its colour, and being destitute of trees. FLAT ISLANDS, about 2 or 3 miles to the westward of it, are two low isles, with some straggling bushes on them; they lie North and South near each other, and seem connected by a spit of sand or rocks. The North entrance of the Strait of Alloo, formed between these islands and the East point of Lomblen, is here 5 or 6 miles wide: this point, situated in lat. 8° 14′ S., lon. 124° 0′ E. by chronometer from Amboina, forms in a low spit of sand, with a reef or coral bank projecting under water about ½ a mile from it; at the distance of 1 mile off it, no ground was got with 120 fathoms line. About 5 or 6 miles South from this point, East Island is situated nearest the Pantar side of the strait, and has a level aspect. MIDDLE ISLAND, bearing S.W. by W. 5 or 6 miles from East Island, is of considerable height, resembling at the western part, a gunner's quoin: the passage on either side of this island appeared safe, and is about 4 or 5 miles wide from shore to shore; but the opening between East Island and Pantar, seemed very narrow.

Strait of Pantar.

STRAIT, or GUT OF PANTAR, formed betwixt the island of this name and the West end of Ombay, extends N. N. E. and S. S.W. about 8 leagues, and is little frequented by English navigators; for it is considered to be rather intricate, and not so safe for large ships as the Strait of Alloo. From the observations made by Captain Heywood, when passing the northern and southern mouths of this strait, he has been enabled to give the following remarks.

Geo. Site of the N. W. end of Ombay.

The N. West end of Ombay, in lat. 8° 9′ S., lon. 124° 27′ E. by chronometer, from Amboina, is high bold land, and the distance from it to the N. E. point of Pantar, is about 5 miles; but in the northern part of this strait, three islands are situated. The northernmost of these, called North Island, is low, and on the middle of it there is a small hummock. Haycock Island, bearing S. 5° W. from the former, rises upward in the form of a cone or haycock; and the other, called High Island, or Centre Island, is much larger and nearly of the same form, but terminates in a double peak, as high as the West end of Ombay or the peak of Pantar. The North part of High Island, is distant about 2 leagues to the southward of North Island; it is situated rather nearer the Pantar side, than to Ombay; and the land abreast of it, forms a bay, on both sides of the strait. There is a deep inlet to the N. E., which apparently separates the N.W. part of Ombay from the body of the same land. South Island, situated in the southern entrance of this strait, is high, and seen to the westward of High Island when it bears S. 11½° W. The proper channel through, is betwixt the islands in the North part of the strait and the Ombay shore, and out to the southward on either side of South Island, but the passage to the West of the latter, is preferable.

The narrowest part of the channel, between the N. E. point of High Island and the North point of the inlet that stretches into Ombay, is nearly 2 miles wide, and it becomes wider to the southward. Captain John Wales, of the Company's Marine, went through this strait in 1798; he passed close to the N.W. part of Ombay, which is lined by a reef, and carried a fair wind until abreast of High Island: then succeeded light baffling airs from southward, and night coming on, he worked through betwixt Ombay and High Island; when 3 or 4 miles to the southward of the latter, the S. E. wind set in steady, with which he steered out to the S. S. Westward between South Island and the Pantar shore. No ground was got with from 20 to 40 fathoms of line in passing through the strait, and strong eddies were experienced off the S. E. part of High Island.

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Geo. Site of ombay.

OMBAY, or MALLOOA, extends nearly E. by N. and W. by S. about 16 or 17 leagues, and from the numerous dwellings seen among the hills, it appears to be well inhabited. This island is high land, but most so, at the eastern part; its coasts all round, appear bold and safe to approach, and the East point is situated in lat. 8° 17′ S., lon. 125° 15′ E. or 3° 0′ West from Amboina by chronometers.

4th. WETTER, TIMOR, AND OTHER ISLANDS CONTIGUOUS TO THE OMBAY PASSAGE; WITH SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Geo. Site of Wetter, and the adjoining Islands.

WETTER, is a high bold island extending E. N. E. and W. S.W. about 20 leagues, clear of danger, and safe to approach within I or 2 miles in most places. Its East point is situated in lat. 7° 46′ S., lon. 126° 54′ E.; DOG ISLAND is in lat. 7° 41′ S., lon. 126° 3′ E., or 2° 12′ West from Amboina by chronometers, and is a small isle about 2 miles off the N.W. end of Wetter. PULO BABY, in lat. 8° 5′ S., distant about 5 miles off the S.W. end of Wetter, is a high island, bold to approach on the West side; but the passage betwixt it and Wetter is said to be unsafe, and the western shore of the latter, being lined by foul ground as far to the northward as Dog Island, ought to be kept at a moderate distance.

Pulo Cambing.

Geo. Site.

PULO CAMBING, or PASSAGE ISLAND, extending N. N. E. and S. S.W. about 3½ or 4 leagues, is of considerable height, with a peak; its North point bears S. 30° W. from Pulo Baby distant 2 leagues, and the channel is clear between them, by giving a birth to the North end of Pulo Cambing, where foul ground projects out about 1 mile. The South point of this island is in lat. 8° 21′ S., lon. 125° 39′ E. by chronometer from Amboina; and its S.W. point bears East from the East end of Ombay, distant about 20 miles, this being the breadth of the Ombay Passage, formed between them, which is very clear, the islands on both sides being steep to, without soundings.

Geo. Site of Kisser.

KISSER, in lat. 8° 0′ S., lon. 127° 7′ E. by chronometer from Amboina, is a small island, distant about 7 leagues N. N.W. from the East end of Timor, and nearly the same distance to the S. Eastward of the East end of Wetter. It has been said, that in a small bay on the western side, a ship might anchor near the shore, during the easterly monsoon, and procure water and other refreshments, at a village: but in June, 1820, Capt. Barnes, in the Minstrel, could not find any anchorage, but could only get ground 40 fathoms, within a short ½ cable's length of the rocks, which are 2 or 3 feet above water, and extend from one point of the bay to the other.

Roma.

ROMA, in about lat. 7° 36′ S., bearing East, nearly 12 leagues from the N. E. end of Wetter, is an island of considerable size and height, with several small isles contiguous; and there is said to be anchorage at the S. E. part, in a small bay under the high land, which forms a kind of harbour, being protected by the small islands that front the eastern side of Roma.

Geo. Site of Timor.

TIMOR, extends about 80 leagues nearly E. N. E. ½ N. and W. S.W. ½ S., the S.W. point being in lat. 10° 23′ S., lon. 123° 30′ E., and the East end in lat. 8° 21′ S., lon. 127° 15′ E., or 60 miles West of Amboina Flagstaff by chronometers.* Inland, this island is formed of high undulating mountains, but in some places near the sea, it is of moderate height. The South coast, although little frequented, is safe to approach within a moderate

* The geographical positions of most of those islands, are given from the observations of Captain Heywood, corroborated by those of Captain Flinders, and other navigators.

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distance in most places, and there are generally soundings near the shore, and anchorage in some of the bays. In coasting along this side of the island during the night, a ship ought to keep at a moderate distance from the points of land; because some of those that front the S.W. and southern parts, have reefs projecting from them to a small distance. It is also proper, not to stretch far out to the southward, on account of the Sahul Banks, described in Volume First of this work.

To sail to the southward in the westerly monsoon.

A ship coming from Amboina, or from any other part of the Banda Sea, in the westerly monsoon, and bound to the westward by the southern passage, ought to use every means to pass on the North side of Timor; for if she fall to leeward, and be obliged to pass round the East end of that island, she will find great difficulty in beating to the westward betwixt it and the coast of New Holland; where strong winds from W. N.W. to W. S.W., with squally weather and a heavy sea, may be generally expected from November to April. If, notwithstanding every precaution, a ship fall to leeward, it seems advisable to work to the westward along the South coast of Timor, and afterward pass through the Strait of Semao, betwixt it and Rotto. For by keeping to the northward of the Sahul Banks, near the land, a ship will probably have the wind and sea more moderate than in the offing; and she will not be embarrassed with the dangers that lie to the southward.

The South coast of Timor, stretches nearly N. E. by E. and S.W. by W., formed in many parts, of low land fronting the sea; and the hills from thence, rise in gentle acclivities up the country. The hills and low land, are generally covered with trees close to the sea, except in some parts which appear cultivated. Several ships in sailing along this coast, have found it clear of danger, with many small inlets, and soundings of 15 to 25 fathoms within 1 or 1½ mile of the shore, in some places.

South coast of Timor.

The South side of Timor, is inhabited by the natives, who are generally found to be inoffensive, and more hospitable than the northern Malays. On the opposite side of the island, the Dutch and Portuguese have several settlements, where ships may touch and procure refreshments.

Geo. Site of Dilly.

DELLI, DILLY, or DIELY, in lat. 8° 35½′ S., lon. 125° 40′ E., or 2° 35′ East from Amboina by chronometer, is a small Portuguese settlement on the North side of the island, where ships proceeding through the Ombay Passage, sometimes stop for supplies.

From the low situation of the town under the high land, it is with difficulty perceived until nearly approached, when coming from the northward. There is a bluff point that projects out to the eastward of it, by which it may be known when within 4 or 5 miles of the shore; or at this distance off, with the peak of Pulo Cambing bearing N. ½ E., the houses and flagstaff will be visible.

Anchorage.

This is not an advisable place for large ships to go into, unless from necessity; for the entrance of the harbour, or inner road, is only about 1½ or 2 cables' length in width, being formed between two coral reefs; and inside, there is not much room. The sea breaks on these reefs at ¾ ebb, and they are dry at low water, stretching parallel to, and distant about 2 miles off shore. In crossing the bar between them, the Canada had 5, 6, and 7 fathoms, and 14 fathoms inside about a cable's length off the town, with the extremes of the bay from W. N.W. to N. E., and the extremity of the coral reef that shelters the harbour N. N.W. ½ W. Inside, there is a small patch nearly in the fair way or centre of the harbour, having on it only 12 feet water. The Princess Charlotte* grounded on this patch, after the pilot anchored her in 7 fathoms about ¼ mile off shore with Dilly Flagstaff S. E. ¼ E.; being too

* This ship left Amboina, June 16th, 1802, bound to Europe, and being very crank, put into Dilly on the 20th; here she remained 7 days, received 72 tons of ballast, and 10 buffalos. She made Dilly Flagstaff in lat. 8° 34½′ S.; lon. 125° 36′ E. by chronometer from Amboina, or 4 miles more westerly than Captain Heywood's position of it by the same means.

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far to the westward, she shot a-head and grounded, but was soon hove off by running out the kedge anchor.

At a moderate distance outside of the reefs, there is anchorage from 30 to 40 fathoms. Pilots will come off, by making the signal, if you intend to run inside. The passage between the reefs is to the westward of the fort, near the western point of the bay; the instant a ship hauls round the reef, sail should be reduced, and she will shoot into an anchoring birth of 12 to 14 fathoms muddy bottom. There is a large tree on the beach, which should not be brought more easterly than S. E. by S. From the proper anchorage, pulo Cambing bears N. 9° E. to N. 14° W., pulo Baby N. 16° E., West end of Wetter N. 23° E., Flagstaff of Dilly S. 59° E., and the extremes of the bay from N. 45° E. to N. 73° W.

Fine buffalos, hogs, and vegetables, may be got here, also rice and poultry; but the latter are neither cheap nor abundant. The sea wind setting in regularly during the day, renders this place easy of access in the S. E. monsoon; and a ship may run out speedily, with the land wind in the morning. The tides are irregular in the neaps, high water, at 1½ hour on full and change of the moon.

Geo. Site of the point forms the Ombay Passage.

Geo. Site of Pulo Batto.

About 9 leagues to the West of Dilly, there is a point of land in lat. 8° 39′ S., lon. 125° 13′ E., which forms the narrowest part of the passage between Timor and the S. E. part of Ombay, and is here, 5 or 5½ leagues wide. From this point the general direction of the coast is between S.W. ½ W. and S.W. by W. ¾ W., 26 or 27 leagues to pulo Batto, a small white cliff'd isle in lat. 9° 16′ S., lon. 124° 5′ E., which lies 3 or 3 ½ leagues off shore, and sometimes abounds with turtle.

There are several villages and anchoring places on the North coast of Timor, betwixt Dilly and pulo Batto; but in many parts, no ground can be got until very near the shore.

Geo. Site of Batto-Gady.

BATTO-GADY, in lat. 8° 57½′ S. lon. 124° 55′ E. is a Portuguese settlement where refreshments may be got, with good anchorage in the easterly monsoon; it being situated in a bay to the S. Westward of the point mentioned above. There is a rock fronting this place, with soundings near it. The Star, bound from Amboina to Europe, anchored when calm in 15 fathoms, with Batto-Gady flagstaff in one with the rock bearing S. S.W. 2 or 3 miles distant. With a light westerly breeze soon after, she weighed, made a tack, and stood in S. by W. ½ W. for the town; then anchored in the road in 11 fathoms sand and mud, with the bluff point N. 24° E., the rock N. 32° E., the western extreme W. 17° S., and the flagstaff of Batto-Gady S. 35° E., off the beach abreast of the fort about 200 yards. She remained here three days cutting wood, filling up her water, and procured some stock by permission of the governor, and sailed August 13th, 1801.

Leffouw Road.

Tulycaou Bay.

LEFFOUW ROAD, situated about 8 leagues to the eastward of Pulo Batto, is an open anchorage, and the low point on the West side, separates it from Tulycaon Road, or Bay. In this bay, near the Village Occuse, a ship may anchor in 22 fathoms, about 2 cables' lengths from the shore, with the houses bearing nearly South, Leffouw Point about 2 miles to the E. N. E., and pulo Batto 6 leagues to the westward. It appears to have been in Tulycaon Bay, that the Taunton Castle anchored, September 1st, 1797, and sailed on the day following, after receiving 15 buffalos and other refreshments. She anchored in 40 fathoms, about 2 cables' lengths off shore, with the extremes of the bay from E. by N. to W. by S. ½ S., the flagstaff S. ½ E., observed lat. 9° 12′ S. The ship, Prince Regent, April 6th, 1816, sent two boats twice to the village of Occuse in passing, and they brought off 18 fine buffalos and some water, while the ship stood off and on. There is good anchorage to the westward of the village, 50 fathoms about 2 miles off shore, and 25 fathoms 1 mile from it, blueish clay, where the Echo and Rebecca, Whalers, had anchored at this time, and pro-

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Sutarana Road.

SUTARANA ROAD, is all rocky and foul ground, and lies round the point to the S. Westward of Tulycaon Bay; the anchorage is in 30 to 40 fathoms about 1½ cable's length Road' off shore, with the houses bearing S. by W., Pulo Batto N.W. westerly, 2½ or 3 leagues, easternmost extreme N. E. by E., and the western extreme of the bay W. ¼ S., distant 1½ mile.

The North coast of Timor is uniformly high a little way in the country, sloping down in many parts toward the sea. In lat. 9° 41′ S. a remarkable peak is situated on the West part of the island, which bears S. by E. a little easterly from Pulo Batto.

Currents and monsoon.

THE CURRENTS are very irregular, and sometimes set strong through the channel betwixt Ombay and Timor, but generally to the eastward during the westerly monsoon, and to the westward in the opposite season. Close to the shore of Timor, a kind of tides are sometimes experienced. In April and May, the current sets commonly to the westward, and if leaving Amboina in April, you should steer direct for Pulo Combing, as the current will set you to S. Westward; but it frequently sets strong to the eastward about the latter part of the easterly monsoon, in July, August, and September. In October, it sometimes sets strong to the westward, for in October, 1813, the Albion could not get to the eastward on account of a westerly current, and she was obliged to pass through the Strait of Flores to the northward. The sickly season here, is during the easterly monsoon, when strong land breezes prevail in the night.

Geo. Site of the N. W. point of Timor.

The N.W. point of Timor, in lat. 9° 24′ S., lon. 123° 55′ E., is distant 4 or 5 leagues to the S.W. of Pulo Batto; and the coast from thence, turns sharp round to S. S.W. and South, extending nearly in these directions to the entrance of Copang Bay, having a small bay in the interjacent space.

Copang Bay.

COPANG, or COUPANG BAY, situated near the S.W. extremity of the island, is very extensive, and the town of Copang built on the South side of it, is the chief settlement on Timor belonging to the Dutch, where they have a fort called Concordia.

There are two passages into the bay, both of which are safe, and lead to the anchorage. The western passage, is formed betwixt the Island Semao, and Sandy or Turtle Island, which is a small isle in the middle of the entrance of the bay, having a sandy beach and a reef projecting from its western side, 2 miles to the W.S.W. The sea breaks on this reef, and it is partly dry at low water; the island has also a reef stretching from it about ½ a mile to the North and southward, with 30 fathoms close to its eastern verge.

To enter it by the western channel.

To sail in by the western channel, a ship ought to borrow toward the Semao shore, or by keeping about mid-way between it and Sandy Island, the reef which projects from the latter, will be avoided. When abreast of this island, she may steer direct for the town of Copang, but no soundings will be got until within 1½ or 1 mile of it.

Eastern channel, is formed between Sandy Island and a small isle covered with trees, which lies close in with the N. E. point of the bay; and this is considered the best channel, there being soundings between the islands of 25 to 38 fathoms, where a ship may anchor occasionally during a calm.

To sail in through the eastern channel.

In steering to the S. Eastward for this channel, soundings of 60 fathoms sand and coral are got, when Sandy Island is bearing S. S. E. 1 mile distant, and the small isle E. N. E. 3 or 4 miles, the depth decreasing toward the latter. About ½ a mile farther in, there are 50 fathoms sand, and 38 fathoms about ½ a mile from Sandy Island; come no nearer it, on account of the surrounding reef. Steering in, to the eastward of this island, Copang flagstaff will be seen bearing about South, and in sailing toward it, the water will deepen from 32 to 47 fathoms soft mud. When the fort is approached within 1½ mile, the depth will decrease to 39, 31, 29 fathoms sand, and 21 fathoms mud, as fast as the lead can be hove, where a ship may anchor, with the flagstaff S. S. E. ½ E. 1 mile, the river's mouth S. S. E. ¼ E., Sandy

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Island N. ½ W. about 4 miles. But the anchorage is better with the flagstaff S. by E., in 20 to 25 fathoms blue mud, about ½ a mile off shore, and it is proper to moor immediately. The Moffat touched here in 1818, and Capt. Lee, of that ship, states the best anchorage to be, with the flagstaff to the westward of South: she anchored, December 12th, in 24 fathoms, with the Fort Flagstaff S. by W., Turtle Island N. 15° W., Semao Passage S. 60° W., about 2 miles off the town.

Geo. Site of the Fort.

FORT CONCORDIA, is in lat. 10° 8½′ S., lon. 123° 35′ E. by chronometer from Amboina; and Captain Flinders made the flagstaff in lat. 10° 9′ S., lon. 123° 35¾′ E. Variation 0° 37′ E. in 1803: although there is very little stream of tide in the road, it rises 10 or 12 feet perpendicular, and flows till 10¼ hours at full and change of the moon.

Refreshments.

By application to the governor, a ship may get every assistance here, and refreshments of fruits, vegetables, buffalos, hogs, and poultry. Boats go into the river, and fill their casks above the bridge, where the water is always good; but sometimes, it is brackish below.

This is a good place to touch at in the easterly monsoon; but the bay is open to the heavy swell, which rolls into it during the strength of the westerly monsoon, rendering the anchorage sometimes unsafe. Ships may, however, anchor under Searao, completely sheltered from the severe squalls which blow from N.W. to S.W.: here, the Dutch ships lie during the strength of the westerly monsoon, but the bottom is generally foul. There is also anchorage on the North side of the bay, under a small island called Pulo Tekoos, where vessels are sheltered from N.W. winds.

Semao.

SEMAO, is an island of considerable extent, and moderately elevated, fronting Copang Bay and the S.W. end of Timor, from which it is separated by a narrow, but navigable channel, with soundings of deep water in it. This island has a similar aspect to the adjacent land of Timor, but it is not quite so high.

Geo. Site of Rotto,

ROTTI, ROTTO, or ROTTE, extends a considerable way to the S. Westward of Timor and Semao, being 12 or 14 leagues in length N. E. and S.W., the S.W. end reaching to about lat. 11° 2′ S., lon. 122° 55′ E.; it is of moderate height, and of undulating appearance, much larger than Semao, and may be seen 12 or 14 leagues distance. In some parts, soundings are got near its shores, which have small isles adjoining; and at the western part, a Dutch manuscript chart, places a harbour or inlet extending inland to the eastward, the entrance of which is formed by shoals on each side, and seems intricate; but 4, 5, and 6 fathoms, are marked between the shoals, and 8 to 13 fathoms inside of the harbour, secure from all winds. This is the largest of the islands under the jurisdiction of Copang, is well inhabited, divided into 18 districts, or Rajahships, and said to produce sugar.

and Booca Bay.

BOOCA BAY, in lat. 10° 46′ S., about lon. 123° 10′ E., situated on the South side of Rotto, is sheltered from all winds except those that blow from S.W. The ship Abercromby, of Bombay, about 1100 tons burthen, bound to China, after being dismasted to the southward of Sandalwood Island, anchored in Booca Bay in 21 fathoms soft bottom, January 14th, 1812, after having sent the boat to sound an opening or bay, which was seen from the offing. In the journal, it is called a bay or cove, with good anchorage, and no appearance of danger; at anchor in 21 fathoms water, she was about 3 cables' lengths from the shore, and the Village of Booca is situated at the head of the bay, where a good watering place was found. The chief of the place, supplied the Abercromby, with buffalos, pigs, goats, deer, poultry, beeswax, and honey; and this island, like most of the others, abounds with a small breed of horses. These articles were obtained in barter for beads, red cloth, large knives, gun-powder, muskets, pistols; and the natives prize highly gilt buttons.

After refitting in part, and having obtained water and refreshments, she sailed from hence,

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January 26th, for Copang Bay; and she was afterward obliged to proceed to Sourabaya to get new masts, which could not be obtained at Timor.

Strait of Semao.

Semao Strait separates Rotto from Semao, and the S.W. point of Timor; it is a safe passage, with soundings of 40 to 60 fathoms in some places. The North end of Rotto and S.W. point of Timor, bear from each other N. ½ E. and S. ½ W. distant 3 or 4 leagues; and the western part of the strait, is about 2 leagues wide between Rotto and Semao, where there is an isle contiguous to the North end of Rotto, and another off the S.W. point of Semao. Pulo Dana is a small island near the South end of Rotto, having other smaller isles close around.

Minstrel's Passage.

MINSTREL'S PASSAGE, is formed between pulo Douw to the west, and two small isles adjacent to the N. Western part of Rotto, to the eastward, which is thus described by Capt. Barnes, of the Minstrel, who passed through it, May 13th, 1820. At 10 A. M. Scotch Bonnet and the S. W. end of Rotto in one bearing E. S. E. ¼ E., and the S. W. point of Douw N. E. by N. At 10½ A. M. passed between the Island Douw, and a small island bearing nearly East from it, which we named Palmer's Island: the channel appeared to be about 2 wiles wide, but a reef projects 2 miles from the S. E. end of Douw, and another reef projects from the West point of Palmer's Island 1½ or 2 miles. Borrowed on the Douw shore to 8 fathoms, bad 10½ fathoms in mid-channel, and in hauling a little to the Eastward had 12, 14 fathoms, then no ground. These soundings seem to be on a ridge or bar, extending across the channel from one island to the other; and a strong current was setting through to the northward. When in deep water, steered N. by E., to pass at a proper distance on the west side of a small island that lies to the N. Eastward of Palmer's Island, which we named Thomas' Island; and it has a reef projecting to a considerable distance from North to West.

This passage would not be safe to attempt in the night, as the reefs would not be discerned, being hid by the land. The Island Douw, appeared to be well inhabited, and very fertile, as great numbers of sheep or goats were seen. At noon, observed lat. 10° 45′ S., lon. 122° 44′ E. by chronometer, the Island Douw bearing from S. by W. to S.W. by W., distant 3 or 4 miles, Thomas' Island E. ½ S. to S. E. by E. 3 or 4 miles.

Geo. Site of Savu.

SAVU ISLAND, is about 7 leagues in length East and West, low to seaward, with hills of moderate height in the centre, and situated in lat. 10° 37′ S., lon. 122° 0′ E.* as stated already in Volume First of this work. At each extremity of the island, there are low sandy points with heavy breakers, which should not be approached in the night. There is said to be a small bay on the S. W. side of the S. E. point of the island, where ships may anchor in the westerly monsoon; but Zeba or Saba Bay on the N.W. side, is better known, and it affords anchorage in the easterly monsoon. The Endeavour, Capt. Cook, anchored in this bay, about 1 mile off shore, in 38 fathoms water, clear sandy bottom, with the North point of the bay bearing N. 30° E. distant 2½ miles, and the S.W. point or westernmost extremity of the island W. 27° S. The refreshments procurable here, are buffalos, sheep, hogs, fowls, limes and cocoa-nuts; but there is a great scarcity of fresh water.

Capt. King, in the Mermaid cutter, during his exploration of the coasts of New Holland, anchored in Zeba Bay, October 24th, 1819; and the bank was so steep, that although the anchor was dropped in 12 fathoms, the vessel lay in 22 fathoms with 40 fathoms of cable out. The Rajah Amadima, and the people, seemed to be very poor, and refreshments were plentiful in exchange for rupees or gun-powder, but no fresh water could be obtained at this season, which obliged Capt. King to proceed to Copang Bay, for a supply.

Betwixt the West end of Savu, and the small island Banjoan, situated near it, there is said to be a passage; and the channel between the latter and New Island, is very safe.

* This longitude of Savu, by the observations of Capt. Heywood, agreeing with chronometers from Amboina, corresponds also with the observations of other navigators.

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New Island.

New Island has been stated in Volume First of this work, to lie in lat. 10° 40′ S., but the observations taken in the Panther, make it in lat. 10° 46′ S., and 10 or 11 leagues to the W. S. Westward of Savu.

Adjoining channels.

The channel formed betwixt these islands and the East end of Sandalwood Island, is 16 or 17 leagues wide, and clear of danger. The other channel, bounded by Savu on the West side, and by Rotto and Semao to the East and S. Eastward, is about the same breadth, and equally safe; and according to circumstances, either of them may be adopted by ships bound to, or coming from the Ombay Passage.

Islands to the eastward of Timor.

THE CHAIN OF ISLANDS, which extend from the East end of Timor nearly to New Guinea, being seldom seen by European navigators, are very imperfectly known; but they are frequently visited by large Macassar proas, and others, which carry on a considerable trade with several of those islands; and which also, annually visit the coast of New Holland, near the Gulf of Carpenteria, to procure the sea slug, called beech de mer, for the China market.

Geo. Site of Pulo Jackee.

PULO JACKEE, or NOOSSA NESSING, is a small isle situated about 3 miles off the East point of Timor in lat. 8° 19′ S., lon. 127° 18′ E.: the Dutch charts mark soundings around this end of Timor, and anchorage on the N.W. side of Pulo Jackee. Betwixt this island and Lettee, the next island to the eastward, the channel is about 9 leagues wide, and clear of danger.

Serwatty Islands.

SERWATTY, or SEAWAY ISLANDS, extend about 35 leagues in an easterly direction from Lettee, which is the westernmost island, forming a chain of various sizes, of which the following are most worthy of notice, and they form the northern boundary of the Timor sea.

Geo. Site of Lettee.

LETTEE, is a high island of considerable extent, and its western extremity is in lat. 8° 16′ S., lon. 127° 46′ E., bearing from Pulo Jackee about E. ½ N., distant 9 or 9½ leagues. There is a small village at the N. E. part of the island, with soundings off it, where a ship might anchor in from 10 to 20 fathoms water in a case of necessity, in order to procure some refreshments from the inhabitants; but the ground is rocky, and unfavorable for anchorage.

Moa, and other Islands.

MOA, is the next large island to the eastward of Lettee, being separated from it by a small channel; Lacker Loewang, and other islands, stretch eastward to Ceremata or Sermatta, which are mostly high, and there is thought to be safe passages between some of them; but Loewang, which is the cluster of isles next to the westward of Ceremata, is surrounded by rocks and shoals.

As these islands are very imperfectly known, the following remarks, transcribed from Capt. Barnes' journal, of the Minstrel, may be of some utility, as he passed from Timor along the southern side of the chain, in June, 1820, when proceeding to the Arroe Islands. June 20th, at noon, observed lat. 8° 29′ S., lon. 128° 22′ E. by chronometer, the Seaway Islands bearing from N. by W. to E. N. E. distant 10 or 12 miles: these islands are dangerous, being intersected with very low land and rocks to a considerable extent. Variation per azimuth 3° 7′ E. June 21st, at noon, observed lat. 8° 23′ S., lon. 129° 6′ E. by chronometer, the east point of Seaway Island N.W. 5 or 6 leagues, the body of Sermatta N. N. E. June 22d, observed lat. 8° 19′ S., lon. 129° 44′ E., extremes of a chain of islands from N, by E. ½ E. to N.W. by W., distant 6 or 8 miles. June 23d, observed lat. 7° 57′ S., lon. 130° 41′ E. by chronometer, the extremes of Timor Laut from S. by E. ½ E. to S. E. ½ E. June 24th, saw the bottom, and had 6, 7, and 10 fathoms on a coral bank, then 21 fathoms no ground, and made the bank in lat. 8° 28′ S., lon. 130° 34′ E.

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Damme, and other Islands.

Geo. Site of Cerowa.

DAMME, or DAMMA, in lat. 7° 20′ S., about lon. 128° 36′ E., is a high large island, distant 15 or 16 leagues to the N. N. Westward of Ceremata, having smaller islands to the South and westward of it: there is a bay on the East side of the island, and another on the North side called William's Bay, where some Dutchmen generally reside. TAUW, situated about 8 leagues to the E. N. Eastward of Damme, is a small island; NILA, distant about 6 or 7 leagues farther in the same direction, is much larger than. Tauw, having a bay on the South side, and a mountain on the East side, said to be a volcano. SEROA, or CEROWA, in about lat. 6° 10′ S., about lon. 130° 5′ E., lies in a N. N.E. direction from Nila, and said to have anchorage on the North side; but most of these islands are high and steep to, with generally a rocky bottom in those few places where soundings are obtained.

Geo. Site of Babber.

BABBER, in about lat. 8° 8′ S., about lon. 130° 40′ E., is a large high island, encircled by others of small size; some of which, lie 4 or 5 leagues off. One of these, called Welang or. Weetang, fronts the West end of Babber, and there is a bank of 5½ to 10 fathoms water between them, where a vessel may anchor, and be sheltered from westerly winds by the high land of Weetang; and by the high land of Babber, from easterly winds. There is also anchorage at the East end of Babber, with the N. E. point of the island bearing about North, the South point S. by W., and the entrance of a fresh water river will then bear S.W.; but the bottom is generally foul about this island, and those in the offing are steep to, without soundings.

Timor Laut.

TIMOR LAUT, is the southernmost large island between Timor and New Guinea; and to the northward and westward, it is fronted by numerous islands of various sizes, with anchorage in some places, but the true situation of the South point of this island, has, till lately, remained unknown to European navigators; and the coast generally is still unexplored.

Capt. Barnes, in the Minstrel, approached close to the S. W. side, in June 1820, and coasted along the southern and eastern sides of the island within a moderate distance, which enabled him to make the following observations.

Geo. Site of the South Point.

By two days meridian altitudes of the sun, taken when near the South part of Timor Laut, made its southern extremity* in lat. 8° 27′ S., lon. 130° 50′ E. by chronometer measured from Dilly; variation 2° 30′ E. At a small distance from the S. W. point, there is a small island covered with trees, the S.W. point of which, is on a transit with the S. W. point of Timor Laut bearing W. N.W., and a dangerous reef seems to extend about mid-channel between them; but a mud bank with regular soundings, stretches in a westerly direction from the Woody Island towards the Coral Bank of 6 fathoms, before mentioned.

The South or S.W. point of Timor Laut being rather low, and fronted by a dangerous reef projecting from it 2 or 3 miles, requires great caution when in its proximity during the night, particularly as the currents are mutable and strong at times. The land about the point is covered with trees, and the shore for about a mile to the eastward presents a rocky face, the east end of which has the appearance of the entrance of a river, and is remarkable by a large detached fragment of rock, resembling the hull of a ship. From the South point, the coast extends in an easterly direction 12 or 13 miles, then N. E. by E. a little easterly, and afterward more to the northward; the whole extent from the South point, to the northern extremity of the island, being about 26 or 27 leagues in a N. N. E. direction.

Larat.

LARAT, is a large island adjacent to the N. E. part of Timor Laut, from whence other islands stretch in a N. Easterly direction to the islands called the Keys.

* Capt. Warington, in 1822, on his voyage from Port Jackson towards Batavia, passed within 5 or 6 miles of the southern extremity, and placed it in lat. 8° 14′ S., lon. 130° 43′ E. by good chronometers. Capt. Cook, in his first voyage round the world, made it in lat. 8° 17′ S, lon. 131° 50′ E., but the lunar tables were at that time very imperfect.

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Keys.

KEYS, consist of three large islands, with many small isles adjacent, situated about 20 leagues to the westward of the Arroe Islands, and about the same distance from the S.W. part of New Guinea. The whole of these islands are little known to Europeans; so is likewise the chain of islands, that extends in a N. Westerly direction from the Keys to the S. E. extremity of Ceram.

Great Key.

Geo. Site.

Capt. Barnes, in the Minstrel, who approached close to the eastern coast of the Great Key, in July 1820, describes it to be very high land, the coast bold to approach, covered with wood, and interspersed with several large villages. July 6th, at day-light, the extremes of the island bore from S. by W. ½ W. to N.W. by N. off shore 1½ or 2 miles: steering N. N.W. from that time till 7 A. M. when the haze clearing away, saw eight large proas pulling towards us, having in each of them 30 or 40 men; fired two 18-pounders among them, which did not arrest their course, but a brisk breeze commenced, and carried us away from these inhospitable visitors. A ship coming to these parts, must be always on her guard to prevent surprise, from the roving piratical proas. At noon, observed lat. 5° 12′ S., lon. 133° 11′ E. by chronometer, extremes of the Great Key from S. ½ E. to S. S.W., distance off shore 10 or 11 miles, which places the North point of the island in lat. 5° 20′ S., lon. 133° 13′ E.

Arrive Islands.

Geo. Site S. W. point of New Guinea.

ARROE, AROO, or ARROW ISLANDS, like the whole of this Archipelago, are very imperfectly known; but they extend from the southern extremity of the Great Arroe in lat. 7° 0′ S., nearly N. by E. about 36 leagues, to lat. 5° 0′ S., or within 12 or 14 leagues of the S.W. coast of New Guinea. They are said to be intersected with deep inlets or water channels, which seem to separate them into different sections; and are fronted by many small isles at the N.W. and eastern sides. From the southern extremity of the Arroe Islands, soundings extend a considerable way to the westward; and in an easterly direction, there are moderate depths of 16 to 35 fathoms as far as the coast of New Guinea, where the great bay is formed to the northward of Cape Valsche. This cape, is situated in about lat. 8° 26′ S., and thought to be in about lon. 137° 20′ E., and it forms the S.W. extreme of New Guinea. Contiguous to the Arroe Islands, there are anchorage in several places, and they abound with some articles of refreshments, and others of trade; but the natives of these islands, and those of the adjacent coast of New Guinea, are inhospitable to strangers, and must be carefully watched.

Geo. Site of South point of Arroe Islands.

Capt. Barnes, in the Minstrel, steered from Timor Laut, June 29th, 1820, towards the western coast of the Great Arroe, and carried soundings from 50 to 37 fathoms on the bank which extends about 20 leagues to the West and S.W. of the Arroe Island. When the South end of the Great Arroe bore East 5 or 6 leagues had soundings of 22 fathoms; and crossed over a bank with 16 to 6 fathoms. Made the South point in lat. 7° 0′ S., lon. 133° 56′ E.* by chronometer measured from Dilly in 17 days interlapsed time.

and Niagoni.

July 3d, at noon, anchored in 5 fathoms hard sand with grey specks, distant 12 miles off the town of NIAGONI, extremes of the western coast of the Great Arroe from S. by W. to N. ½ E., observed lat. 6° 38′ S., lon. 133° 58′ E. A ship coming in here, should not come under 6 fathoms, as the water shoals suddenly from 6, 5, 4, to 3 and 2½ fathoms. A boat with the Rajah visited the ship when we anchored. July.4th, at 10 A. M., attempted to land on the shore at the town of Niagoni, but the natives would not permit us, appearing to be very hostile and treacherous.

* Capt. Cook made this point in lat. 7° 6′ S., lon. 135° 0′ E., which seems to be about a degree too much easterly.

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MONSOONS, WINDS, and WEATHER; ISLANDS in the MOLUCCA and BANDA SEAS, with SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Monsoon amoong the Molucca Islands.

N. W. MONSOON, generally commences among the Molucca Islands early in, or about the middle of November, but seldom blows strong till late in December, continuing until the end of March; then after an interval of calms, light variable winds, squalls and rain, during the month of April the S. E. monsoon gradually sets in, and strengthens in May, continuing until October, when the winds become variable.

In the track comprehended between Celebes and Gillolo, and sometimes to the eastward of the latter, as far as the coast of New Guinea, the winds prevail from N. N. Westward in the N.W. monsoon, and from S. S. Eastward during the opposite season. This is more particularly the case in the Molucca passage, where the winds blow nearly right through, prevailing more from the North than from the West point in the N. W. monsoon, and more from the South than from the East in the other season. Therefore, at the Molucca Islands, the former is called the northerly monsoon, and the other the southerly monsoon. But the winds are subject to great changes during both monsoons, in the vicinity of the extensive islands which form the boundaries of the Pitt's Passage; whereby, ships that sail well, may generally gain ground against the monsoon, in any direction.

In the Banda Sea, and.

Near New Holland.

IN the BANDA SEA, or that space bounded by Boum and Ceram to the northward, and by Timor and Timor Laut to the southward, the N.W. monsoon becomes a W. N. W. one, for the winds prevail more from the West, than from North. And they prevail more from East than from South, during the S. E. monsoon. In the space betwixt Timor and New Holland, the wind often blows at W. S.W. or West during the westerly monsoon, and in both these seas, it is accompanied with hard squalls, dark gloomy weather and rain, which occasions a constant current to the eastward. The atmosphere over the N.W. coast of New Holland, being greatly rarefied by the influence of the sun upon that dry barren soil, near New attracts the current of air from the ocean toward its shores. Therefore, when the sun is in the southern hemisphere, there is no S. E. trade experienced near the northern coast, for the westerly monsoon extends to lat. 15° or 16° S., where the winds begin to draw to S. Westward; and in a higher latitude, they veer to S. S.W. and South, blowing along the coast in the night, or inclining toward it in the day. But as the distance is increased from the coast to the westward, they will be found to draw gradually round into a S. E. trade.

S. E. Monsoon in the Banda Sea.

S. E. MONSOON, which commences in the Banda Sea in April, is well set in by the S. E. end of May, at Amboina, Ceram, and Banda; and with it the rainy season, at these islands. But it is remarkable, that the rains do not extend to the Island of Bouro, although it is not more than 20 leagues to leeward of Amboina; for at Bouro, the fair weather commences with the same monsoon that brings forth rain and unsettled weather about the islands to windward of it.

In the strength of the S. E. monsoon, the winds blow sometimes strong through between Bouro and Ceram. Capt. Waterman, in the ship Volunteer, bound to Amboina, in 1812, beat several days against a strong S. E. wind, under the lee of Manipa and Kelang, and was obliged, July 17th, to run into Cajeli Bay, the ship being only able to carry her foresail and close reefed maintopsail.

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Molucca Islands.

THE CHAIN of ISLANDS, adjoining the West coast of Gillolo, were formerly considered as the principal spice islands; but since the Dutch destroyed the trees, this valuable article of trade is not procurable here. Ships that touch at these islands, may, however, be supplied with refreshments, such as goats, sheep, poultry, sago, with various sorts of fruit and vegetables.

Ternate.

Geo. Site.

TERNATE, the northernmost of these islands, is of small extent, but high, with a fort on the East side called Fort Orange, where the chief town is situated. The Scaleby Castle, bound to China by the eastern passage, November 27th, 1814, anchored in 22 fathoms coarse sand and gravel, with the flagstaff of Fort Orange N.W. by N., and moored with the stream anchor to the northward. During the night, one of the most violent explosions of the volcano occurred, ever known at Ternate. Water was only procurable in small quantities at this time, as four or five butts drained the wells. This place is in lat. 0° 49′ N., lon. 127° 30′ E., and the anchorage is near the shore abreast of the town. The Dutch frigate, Maria Reygersbergen, made the road in lat. 0° 48′ N., lon. 127° 29½′ E., and the volcano mountain in lat. 0° 48′ N., lon. 127° 23½′ E. Variation 2° 0′ E. in 1820.

The king of Ternate, was formerly considered as the sovereign of all the Molucca Islands adjacent, until they became tributary to the Dutch. There is a small isle about 2 miles off the North end of Ternate, called Kiery, with rocks fronting it to the northward. Both Kiery and Ternate have a pleasant aspect, being cultivated, and well inhabited.

Geo. Site of Tidore adjoining Islands, and dangers.

TIDORE, is nearly of the same size as Ternate, situated to the S. Eastward, and separated from it by a safe channel: the N. E. end of the island is in lat. 0° 46′ N., lon. 127° 34½′ E., the mountain in lat. 0° 40′ N., lon. 127° 22½′ E.; and the South extremity in lat. 0° 34′ N., lon. 127° 24½′ E., by the Maria Reygersbergen's observations. The anchorage at Tidore is on the East side of the island, near the town, in 30 fathoms sandy bottom; but the ground is foul in several places, with deep water close in shore. From Tidore in a South direction, POTBAKER'S IS LAND, MOTIR or MOONE, MACKIAN, KAYO, with other smaller isles, stretch along the coast of Gillolo at a considerable distance, nearly to the North part of the large Island Batchian; and mostly all these islands are bold to approach, with safe passages between them, and a good channel between them and Gillolo.

The only dangers are two small sand banks, dry at low water, almost 5 miles East from the middle of the passage between Tidore and Potbaker's Island, the next to the southward of Tidore, which are conspicuous when the sun shines, having then a white appearance; and although they lie in the fair way of ships coming from Tidore toward the strait of Patientia, yet by keeping the Gillolo shore a-board in the night, there is no danger. The anchorage at the island Mackian, although near the shore, is tolerably safe, in about lat. 0° 24′ N., off Fort Reeburgh, at the N. E. part of the island. November 26th, 1814, the Scaleby Castle anchored in 35 fathoms sand and shells, with Fort Reeburgh S.W., off shore ¼ mile; the current setting to the southward. She had previously passed from the westward between Mackian and Moone, the latter being the next island to the North of Mackian, situated between it and Potbaker's Island.

Latta Islands.

Geo. Site of wolf Rock.

GERFTSIUS, or LATTA ISLANDS, is a group of small isles and rocks, situated to the S. Westward of Mackian, not considered dangerous to approach in day-light, for most of the rocks are visible. WOLF ROCK, in lat. 0° 30′ N., lon. 127° 6′ E., distant 17 leagues Wolf Rock. West of Gillolo, is the northernmost and outermost of these, and being level with the surface of the water, ought to have a good birth in the night. H. M. ship Virginia, saw the sea breaking over this rock, which was visible in the hollow of the swell; the Peak of Ternate bears from it N. E. ¾ N., distant 43 miles, another of the Molucca Islands bears from it

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S. E. by E., distant 4 leagues, and a small isle off the North end of the latter, is about the same distance from it, bearing E. by S.

Batchian, and adjoining Islands.

Tides.

BATCHIAN, TAWALLY, and MAREGOLANG, are three large islands fronting the S.W. part of Gillolo, with numerous small islands contiguous to them, most of which are safe to approach. Batchian is a high island, extending about 18 leagues in a S. S. E. direction, its southern extremity being parallel with the South end of Gillolo; and the STRAIT of PATIENTIA, or PATIENCE, is formed between them. The Strait of Batchian is formed betwixt the West coast of the island of this name, and the adjacent islands. The southern part is broad, and there is good anchorage in most places, with shelter in some of the bays or harbours formed by the islands; but the tide in the North part of the strait, runs very strong. Both these straits are safe for ships, with proper attention, but that of Patientia is considered the best, being wider than the other, although destitute of good anchorage, except in some bays, on the Batchian shore. The tide sets through among those islands to the northward and southward, about 6 hours each way, although not always regular; and it rises about 6 feet.

The Dutch frigate, Maria Reygersbergen, in 1805, went from Amboina to Ternate through the STRAIT of PATIENTIA, and returned by the same route, and her journal contains the following remarks.

Geo. Site of Negory Kalam.

NEGORY KALAM North point, is in lat. 0° 28′ N., lon. 127° 37′ E., and 2 miles South of the point, lies the village of this name, having good anchorage off it in 25 and 30 fathoms stiff ground. A little South of the village, there is a fresh water river, where abundance of wood, water, and refreshments may be procured. When at anchor here, the North point of Kayo bore S. by W. ¼ W., Potter's Island W. by N., Motir S.W. by W., and Mackian S.W. by S.

Geo. Site of Kayo.

The island Kayo, or Cayo extends from lat. 0° 7′ N. to 0° 1′ S., and is in lon. 127° 23½′ E.

Geo. Site of Patientia Strait,

Watering places.

The North point of Gillolo that bounds the eastern side of Patientia Strait in coming from the northward, is in lat. 0° 13′ S., lon. 127° 45½′ E.; and West from it distant about 7 miles, lies Batto Lombo Island, close to the Batchian shore, which bounds the entrance of the strait on the western side. Between the N. E. point of this island, and the point of Batchian called Bristly Point, lie two islands near the shore, and to the southward of the point and southernmost of these islands, there is a large bay, with good anchorage, and plenty of wood and water.

Geo. Site of Amsterdam Island.

When through the narrows, and to the S. Westward of West Island, close to the shore of Batchian, is situated Lelary Island, low, long, and flat, covered with trees: opposite to its N. E. point, there is a fresh water river on the Batchian shore, where plenty of wood and water may be obtained. Amsterdam Island, situated in the middle of the narrows, is in lat. 0° 20½′ S., lon. 127° 53½′, E. by chronometer from Amboina.

Geo. Site of John Heneker's Point.

The S. E. extremity of Batchian, called John Heneker's Point, in lat. 0° 48′ S., lon. 128° 3′ E. has soundings of deep water, within a small distance of the shore, with some contiguous isles, and projecting spits, which should have a proper birth.

Directions for sailing through the Strait of Patientia, toward Amboina.

The best route from Ternate or Tidore, to Amboina in the S. E. monsoon, is considered to be through the Strait of Patientia. After the reduction of Ternate by the British, the Albion, Captain Wallace, sailed from Tidore, July 8th, 1801, having troops on board Amboina, and proceeded through this strait. She stood over toward the Gillolo shore in order to avoid the sand banks which lie nearly ½ channel over from the South end of Tidore, then worked to the southward betwixt Batchian and Gillolo, with variable winds and much rain. After approaching the group of isles called Amsterdam, East and West Islands, and others which nearly bar the middle of the strait, she went through a very narrow passage, between Batchian and West Island, which is the nearest isle to the eastward, and here, the

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tide was exceedingly rapid. This passage ought not to be chosen, for the other passage to the eastward of it, is much broader. Captain M'Call came through the latter in the Clyde, and found it perfectly safe, when passing through the Strait of Patientia, shortly after the Albion. No soundings were got in proceeding through it.

Having got through the narrows, a. ship ought to stand over to Gillolo, and keep along this shore, because a shoal is placed in the Dutch charts to the eastward of East Island, and the Middle Sand, which lies in the southern mouth of the strait, nearly mid-way between the East point of Batchian and the Gillolo shore, and must have a birth in passing; on either side of it the channel is safe. When it is approached, a number of small isles surrounded with reefs will be discerned, which must have a birth in steering out of the strait to the southward for Oby Major; and after passing through any of the channels to the eastward of the latter, already noticed in the section where the Gillolo Passage is described, a ship ought to proceed to the southward betwixt Manipa and the East end of Bouro.

Bouro.

BOURO, has been already mentioned, and the geographical situation of its North coast described, in the section where instructions are given for sailing through the Pitt's Passage; but it becomes necessary here, to describe the great bay and the adjacent islands.

Cajali Bay.

Geo. Site of the Fort.

CAJELI, or BOURO BAY, situated at the N. E. part of the island, is easily known by the island Manipa, which bears East from it. The points on both sides of the entrance, are lined by reefs, and no soundings are got until near the shore inside of the bay; there is good anchorage on the North side, within the rounding of the point, from which a reef of coral stretches out a little distance; but the proper road is at the S. E. part of the bay, where Fort Defence and the village are situated in lat. 3° 24′ S., lon. 127° 4′ E. by chronometers from Amboina, and the mean of many lunar observations.

Directions for sailing to the anchorage.

To enter the bay with a turning wind, do not approach near the points on either side, nor borrow into the North side of it; the southern shore is fronted by an extensive coral reef, to the distance of a mile, or more, which shews itself, and may be always avoided with a good look out. With a fair wind, steer westward about mid-way between the points, until the western pitch of the South bluff point bears about S.W., and when the town begins to open in view, haul gradually to W. S.W. and S.W. till the North point of the bay bears to the eastward of North. By keeping the point in this direction and the fort South or S. ¼ E., you will pass clear of the reef which projects about a mile out from the East side of the bay, and will go between it and the pitch of a flat that extends a mile off the western shore.

There is a rugged mount or double peak on the South side of the bay, called the MOTHER and DAUGHTER, which is a good mark: steer into the bay until this mount bears about S. E. by S., then haul right in for the town, and anchor off it in 27 to 24 fathoms muddy bottom, at the distance of 1 or ¾ mile from the beach, with the fort bearing South or S. by W., a small Red Island East, and the North point of the bay N. ½ E. The best birth is in 19 fathoms with the Fort bearing S. by W. ½ W. distant 1 mile, Mother and Daughter S. E., East point of the bay N. E. ½ E., and the N.W. point N.W. by N.

A ship may anchor with. the fort bearing from S. S. E. to S. S.W., but as the bank is steep, sail ought to be reduced in time, and the anchor dropped not under 25 fathoms; this is indispensible, to the westward of the fort, where the water shoals from 20 fathoms as fast as the lead can be hove, to 2 fathoms hard sand, whereby several ships have grounded in coming to anchor. The fort ought not to be brought to the eastward of S. S. E., for the hard sand bank lining the West side of the bay, projects near a mile from the shore, having only 2 or 3 fathoms water on it, and 35 fathoms at the distance of a cable's length outside. If a ship by accident get to the westward, she ought to anchor in 40 fathoms mud, and will then be about 2 cables' lengths from the edge of the bank.

The coral reef that fronts the S. E. shore of the bay has only 3 or 4 feet water over the

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rocks, and there are 40 fathoms about 2 or 3 cable's lengths outside; therefore, it ought not to be approached under 40 or 45 fathoms.

Refreshments.

In this bay, ships are sheltered during both monsoons, and as brisk land winds prevail in the night, the egress is easy. Goats, hogs, fowls, and venison, may be procured here, sufficient for two or three ships, and fruit of various kinds, in abundance. The water is very good, and procured about 100 yards to the eastward of the fort, but as long-boats cannot come close to the shore, it is necessary to swim the casks off to them. Wood is plentiful, and spars fit for masts may be got from the durian-tree; the Cai-pooty tree abounds on this island, from which the natives extract that valuable oil in great quantities.

Tides.

The tides rise and fall about 6 feet, high water at 1 hour on full and change of the moon, but they are not very regular. Variation 1° West in 1798.

Southern coast of Bouro.

Close to the West end of Bouro there are some small islands, and the Dutch charts place a rock above water, about 2 or 2½ leagues off the S.W. part. The southern coast is of semicircular form steep to approach, and destitute of shelter: from the southernmost point, situated in lat. 3° 49′ S., a reef projects a considerable way, having a small isle to the eastward, said to have anchorage close to it.

Geo. Site of Amblaw.

AMBLAW, in lat. 3° 52′ S., lon. 127° 14′ E.* is an island of considerable size, separated from the S. E. point of Bouro by a channel 5 or 6 miles wide: there is said to be a reef of rocks nearly in the middle of this channel, which is laid down in several charts; but it is omitted in a large Dutch manuscript chart, in my possession, and some navigators state the channel to be clear of danger. Close to the shore of Amblaw, there is a place where Dutch vessels occasionally anchor, but the bottom appears to be foul.

Geo. Site of Manipa.

MANIPA, is a high island, situated about ½ way betwixt the East end of Bouro and the West end of Ceram, the body of it being in lat. 3° 17′ S., lon. 127° 28′ E. About 1½ mile off its western extreme, lies a rock or islet, betwixt which and Manipa there is a safe passage for any ship. The channel between this islet and Bouro is about 5½ or 6 leagues wide, clear of danger, destitute of soundings, and is frequented by all ships that pass betwixt Bouro and Ceram. On the South side of Manipa, a fort is situated, off which, and within a small islet, there is anchorage close to the shore: some small islets lie close to the North side of Manipa.

Geo. Site of Bonoa.

BONOA, in about lat. 3° 0′ S., lon. 127° 56′ E., is a high rugged steep island of considerable extent N. E. and S.W., separated from the N.W. part of Ceram by a safe channel 3 or 4 miles wide; which is contracted a little by small isles and shoals, that stretch along the Ceram shore.

Pulo baby.

PULO BABY lies to the S. S.W. of Bonoa, and is lower than the adjacent islands; it is separated from the West point of Ceram, by a narrow passage, called Nassouwens Gat, fit only for proas and small vessels.

Kelang.

KELANG, is a high island close to the S. Westward of Pulo Baby, there being no passage between them; but there is a safe channel about 4 miles wide, betwixt Kelang and Manipa, which lies to the S.W. of the former island. The tides or currents which set through these channels, sometimes produce strong ripplings resembling breakers; and they make a great noise when calm in the night.

* The frigate, Maria Reygersbergen, made the South point in lat. 3° 57′ S., lon. 127° 20½′ East by chronometer from Amboina.

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Geo. Site of Cerain.

CERAM, excepting some parts near the sea, is formed of high mountainous land, extending nearly East and West about 54 leagues; the S.W. point, called Seeal, or Dry Rice Point, is in lat. 3° 31′ S., lon. 127° 56′ E., and forms a peninsula, with Lahoo Deep Bay to the N. E. This bay, has some small islands and shoals at the entrance, with soundings inside, and is situated to the northward of Amboina; for Seeal Point lies directly North from the N.W. extreme of that island. Kessing East point, in lat. 3° 55′ S., about lon. 131° 10′ E., may be considered as the eastern extremity of Ceram, the small island Kessing being chained to it by a reef, and the narrow gut that separates them, is not easily discerned. Amahay Bay, lies directly to the northward of the small island Noesa Laut, and has soundings of deep water in it. The South coast of Ceram is bold to approach, except Hoya Point, situated 9 or 10 leagues to the eastward of Amahay Bay, has a small sandy isle and sand banks, stretching out from it about 2 miles. Within 7 leagues of Kessing Point, a coral reef lines the coast from thence eastward, and around the island Kessing.

Geo. Site of Sawa Bay.

Geo. Site of Flat Point.

SAWA BAY, on the North coast of Ceram, in lat. 2° 51′ S., lon. 129° 6′ E., has the outer island Pulo Bassar, and several small isles surrounded by shoals, stretching out 2 or 3 miles from the low point Tanjong Craw,* which forms the West point of the bay; and the islands near the shore at the S. E. part of the bay, are also environed by shoals. The channel leading to Sawa Road or Harbour, is to the westward of the latter, by steering South for a mount called the Friar's Hood, situated at the bottom of the bay, near the village Selema; and having rounded the reef and islands that front Sawa Road, a ship should haul along the shore to the eastward, and anchor near it, with Pulo Attuee the westernmost island, bearing North. This road is about ¾ of a mile in breadth, with soundings of 40 to 25 fathoms, close to the Ceram shore, which is the safe side, as there is a reef to the S. E. of Pulo Attuee. Although the water be deep, the bottom is mud, affording good anchorage: and this place forms a good harbour in the S. E. monsoon, where excellent fresh water may be procured, and large spars. Sawa Village, is in lat. 2° 56′ S. Old Lamata, or Flat Point, lies to the eastward in lat. 2° 53′ S., lon. 129° 42½′ E.

Geo. Site of Waroo Bay

WAROO, or WAKOO BAY, in lat. 3° 25′ S., about lon. 130° 40′ E., is situated at the N. E. part of the island Ceram, affording good anchorage, where water and other refreshments may be procured.†

Geo. Site Leeuwaarden Shoal.

LEEUWAARDEN SHOAL, in lat. 2° 56′ S., lon. 130° 43½′ E., or 2° 44′ East of Allang Point, Amboina Bay, by chronometers, is distant about 7 miles from the shore that forms the N.W. side of Waroo Bay: it is 2 or 3 miles in extent, in form a crescent, steep to, and very dangerous, the West side being a white sand bank, and the eastern side a ledge of rocks, with high breakers, many of the rocks above water. The ship Venus, of Bombay, got upon this shoal in 1799, during the night, and was abandoned by the crew. There are no soundings near the shoal, nor in the channel between it and the shore, which is considered safe.

Geo. Site of Leeuwaarden Island.

If coasting along with an offing of 7 or 8 miles from the high land of Stole, you bring the Friar's Hood to bear S. by W. ½ W., or when you open the Friar's Hood to the eastward of

* In the Dutch frigate's journal, it is called Para Point, and placed in lat. 2° 49′ S., lon.129° 12½′ E.

† The inhabitants of these villages on the coast of Ceram, are generally hospitable to Europeans, who touch for refreshments, or to trade; but they are in an abject state of savage poverty. The natives of this island are said to have devoured the prisoners procured by their depredations against each other, which practice has ceased since the Dutch purchased them as slaves. They are timid assassins, and generally make their depredations in the night; skulls hung in their huts as trophies of valour, are still frequently seen, and a gentleman who has been much among those people says, that the young men must produce a skull of a human victim, each to his intended bride, before she will consent to accept him for her husband.

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the high land of Stole, you will then be on with the West point of the shoal. Leeuwaarden Island, in lat. 3° 20′ S., lon. 130° 58′ E., is situated to the northward of the East point of Waroo Bay, called Berg Wakoo by the Dutch.

Isles and channels off the East and of Ceram.

To the eastward of Kessing, and the reef that surrounds it and the East end of Ceram, there is a small isle, betwixt which and Kessing, a good channel is formed about 2 or 3 miles wide, with soundings from 30 to 50 fathoms in mid-channel, and 5 to 10 fathoms close to the reefs; the narrowest part of this channel, seems to be about 1 mile in breadth.

Ceram Laut.

CERAM LAUT, bears about East 6 miles distant from the South point of Kessing; and is the westernmost and largest of a range of small islands, chained together and surrounded by a reef, that extends 5 or 6 leagues nearly East and West.

Geo. Site of Goram.

A group of three islands, lies to the eastward of the Ceram Laut Chain, of which GOZAM, or GORAM, in lat. 4° 0′ S., about lon. 131° 44′ E. is the easternmost; there is a channel to the westward of this island, but no safe passage between the westernmost one and the Ceram Laut Chain. The southern island of the Goram group, situated to the S.W. of Goram, has a high flat hill on it, is of considerable extent, and called MANAVOLKA.

Mattabella Islands.

MATTABELLA ISLANDS, in lat. 4° 21′ S., lon. 131° 52′ E., form a group three in number, having a safe channel about 3 or 4 leagues wide between them and the Goram Islands. Towa Island, lies about 7 leagues S. S. Eastward from the Mattabella Islands; and a chain of islands is continued from thence, in a S. Easterly direction to the Keys, already meutioned in the preceding section.

Amboina Islands,

and Bay.

AMBOINA, or AMBOYNA, is a high island, about 11 or 12 leagues in extent N. E. and S.W., being the largest of those called Clove Islands, and it is the chief residence of the government of the Molucca Islands. Three small isles, called the Three Brothers, project from its N.W. point in a northerly direction, having safe passages between all of them, also betwixt the southern one and Amboina. The great bay, extends about 7 leagues into the island, separating it nearly into two parts. AMBOINA BAY, is formed at the entrance by two high points, that of Allang on the West side, and Noessaniva Point to the eastward: they are steep to, situated in lat. 3° 47′ S., and bear nearly East and West of each other, distant 6 or 7 miles. About three cables lengths from Noessaniva Point in a S. S. E. direction, there is a narrow bank of sand stretching East and West, having soundings of 15 to 50 fathoms on it, upon which a ship might anchor when calm. It is detached from the shore, for no ground is got when Allang and Noessaniva Points are just open, or touching each other.

Geo. Site if Fort Victoria.

Inside of Noessaniva Point, there is a small concavity, called Portuguese Bay; but no soundings are obtained on either side, at the distance of a cable's length from the shore, nor within ½ a cable's length in many places, until well up. FORT VICTORIA, situated on the South shore of the bay, in lat. 3° 40′ S., lon. 128° 15′ E.,* by a series of observations of *, taken by Captain Heywood, in two different voyages; these corresponded exactly with his chronometers in a quick run of 11 days from Malacca, in H. M. frigate Dedaigneuse, in December, 1802, which made the flagstaff 26° 0′ E. from Malacca.

Anchorage.

The best anchorage is abreast of the town, or rather above the wharf, in from 25, to 40 or 45 fathoms water, on a steep bank stretching about four cables' lengths from the beach. Close below the fort, a sand projects out a little distance, having 34 fathoms very near it.

It is prudent to moor with the anchors nearly up and down the bay, that in case of parting from one, the other anchor may bring a ship up, before she tail upon the shore. As the bottom is foul in several places, this precaution is more necessary; some ships carry a hawser

* This longitude of Fort Victoria, is agreeable to the observations of other navigators, beside those of Captain Heywood. The Dutch frigate, Maria Reygersbergen's chronometers, made it in lon. 128° 13½′ E. measured from Batavia.

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or cable to one of the anchors, placed at convenient distances on the shore, to prevent being driven off the bank. The distance from Fort Victoria, across the bay to the opposite shore, is about 2 miles: there are no soundings in mid-channel, but there is anchorage opposite to the town and fort, near the western shore, where a ship may bring up, in case of being driven from the anchorage at the town. There is also anchorage in Dutch Bay, situated on the eastern shore, about 2 miles below the fort and town.

Tides.

The tides in the bay are very irregular, being governed chiefly by the winds, and rise about 6 or 7 feet. The course up the bay is N. E. by E., and the distance from Allang Point to the anchorage at Fort Victoria, is about 5 leagues.

To sail into the bay.

The best time to enter between the heads, in the westerly monsoon, is in the morning, betwixt day-light and 8 or 9 A. M.; and by keeping nearly in mid-channel, inclining to the N.Western shore, a ship will generally carry a breeze up to the anchorage off the town. During the night, light variable airs or calms generally prevail, accompanied with an outset, which renders the progress up the bay difficult and tedious; for ships are liable to be drifted about by the eddies, or probably out of the bay, after getting half way up, by a favorable breeze. There is, however, no danger to be apprehended in entering it during the night, for although a ship may seem to be drifting toward the beach on either side by the tides when calm, where no anchoring ground is to be got; yet, when the shore is approached within a certain distance, the ship will generally be set along parallel to it, or drifted off again into the middle of the bay.

In the easterly monsoon, as the current frequently sets strong past the points of the bay to the westward, a ship coming from this direction, ought to work up in the offing until Noessaniva Point bear N. N. E. or N. by E.; she should then, steer to round it pretty close, keeping along the southern shore of the bay at a moderate distance, under low sail; for the sudden gusts of wind which come off the hills at times, might endanger the masts with light sails set.

Refreshments.

Inner Harbour.

A ship may be supplied with water, fruit, and vegetables, at Amboina, but fresh provision is scarce; bullocks, deer, &c. are brought from Bouro and the adjacent islands at times, for the use of the garrison, but not in sufficient quantity to afford any regular supply to ships. Strong gales are often experienced in the westerly monsoon, about full and change of the moon, which are generally preceded by a large swell tumbling into the bay. INNER HARBOUR, situated at the upper part of the bay, being well sheltered from all winds, is generally resorted to, by small ships at the approach of blowing weather; but the entrance into it being narrow, a pilot is requisite to carry a ship through the channel. This place is considered to be unhealthy, for the crews of ships are sometimes very sickly here, when those in the outer harbour continue healthy. The watering river is on the western shore, about 7 or 8 miles from Fort Victoria; and known by a house on each side of it, at a small distance. With the assistance of hoses, the casks are filled speedily, and a loaded long boat can only float out at high water.

The head of the inner harbour, is separated by a small isthmus from a bay on the East side of the island, which has soundings and some shoals in it, but is not frequented by ships.

The northern shore of Amboina is clear of danger, and the channel betwixt the N.W. Brother and Ceram is 4 or 5 miles wide; but the currents or tides among those islets, are strong, and not very regular.

Haraucka Island.

HARAUCKA, or OMA, is separated from the eastern part of Amboina by a navigable channel about 1 league wide, which is contracted to 1 mile at the northern entrance, by a sandy islet contiguous to Amboina: this islet is safe to approach, but the Haraucka shore opposite is foul, and there is a fort on the West side of this island.

Honimoa Island.

Anchorage.

HONIMOA, or SAPAROOA ISLAND, lies close to the Haraucka, the Chan-

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nel that separates them being only 1 mile wide in the narrowest part, destitute of anchorage, and subject to strong currents or tides; a vessel in going through it, must therefore keep near the Haraucka shore. The South point of Honimoa, called the Dolphin's Nose, is in lat, 3° 38′ S., distant about 12 leagues E. by N. ½ N. from the entrance of Amboina Bay: there is an islet close to it, called Pigeon Island, and the small island Malana, lies about 2 miles to the S.W. Saparooa Village, and Fort Durrstede, are situated at the bottom of the bay, which is formed between the South and S. E. points of the island; there is good anchorage in 12 fathoms near the fort in the westerly monsoon, by steering in about mid-channel between the reefs that line both sides of the bay, but no soundings are got until within a mile of the fort.

Geo. Site of Noesa Laut.

NOESA LAUT, in lat. 3° 40′ S., lon. 128° 52½′ E. is small, separated from the S. E. point of Honimoa by a safe channel about 2 miles wide; it is the easternmost of the Clove Islands, and produces the best cloves of any of them. Foul ground projects around it to the distance of ¼ mile, but there is said to be anchorage at the North part, and off the N.W. part, where there is a fortified house.

Channel between those islands and Coram.

The foregoing four islands, called generally the Clove Islands, are of middling height; but the high land of Ceram being near them to the northward, they appear as part of it until closely approached. When a ship is working between them and Ceram, she ought to give a birth to the North part of Haraucka, and the N.W. end of Honimoa, because foul ground projects from them about a mile; whereas, the Ceram shore abreast of these islands, is bold to approach.

Banda Islands.

BANDA ISLANDS, form a group, ten in number, situated near each other; the harbour is formed by Banda or Great Banda on the South side; Goonong Apee or Burning Mountain, and Banda Neira on the North side; with two isles at the eastern entrance, one called Pulo Pisang, and the other Pulo Cappel, from its resembling a ship's hull, which is very small. These islands being high, are subject to sudden gusts of wind, with hot oppressive weather in the day, but the nights are cool.

Geo. Site.

The anchorage in lat. 4° 31′ S., lon. 130° 0′ E.,* is at the foot of the Burning Mountain, which generally emits smoke; and shocks of earthquakes are frequent.

Sailing directions.

The eastern channel is safe to enter Banda Harbour, giving a birth of ½ a mile to the shore of Great Banda, and to that of Banda Neira: a ship may pass on either side of Pulo Pisang and Pulo Cappel, and when to the southward of them, the channel is about 3 miles wide. The anchorage is abreast of the wharf at Banda Neira, in 7 or 8 fathoms. The Orpheus' Bank, which has only 15 feet on it at low water spring tides, will be avoided by not shutting in the eastern point of Great Banda with the low S. E. point of Banda Neira, and anchoring with Pulo Way or Ay, just shut in with the point of Goonong Apee, and Battakeeka Fort on the hill N. by E., distant about ½ a mile off the wharf.

It is high water on the shore at 2 hours on full and change of the moon, and the rise of tide is about 9 or 10 feet. At the anchorage, it is high water at 4 hours, where the tides are strong, but not very regular; it is therefore, proper, to moor immediately.

Ships can only go in by the western channel in the westerly monsoon, which is formed between Goonong A pee and Great Banda; a reef stretches out from the western part of Great Banda, to nearly mid-channel, contracting the passage to a ¼ mile in width, making it necessary to keep close to the Goonong Apee shore, which is steep to. The extreme of Pulo Way kept just touching open with the extremity of Goonong Apee, will lead a ship to the anchorage. This channel is frequented by ships coming in during the westerly monsoon, and by those going out in the opposite season.

* The frigate, Maria Reygersbergen's chronometers and observations, made the anchorage in lat.4° 33′ S., lon. 130° 54′ E.

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There is a passage between Gootsong Apee and Banda Neira, but it being very narrow, with rapid tides, and destitute of good anchorage, it is seldom used except by small vessels.

The harbour of Banda, bears E. S. E. about 40 leagues distant from Noessaniva Point at the entrance of Amboina Harbour, and 18 leagues S. 47° W. from Kessing Point on Ceram.

Rosingeyn Island, lies about 4 miles to the eastward of Great Banda; Pulo Way, and Pulo Rhun, lie to the westward. Pulo Way bears nearly West 7 miles from Goonong Apee, and E. by N. ½ N. 4 miles from Pulo Rbun, betwixt which, the passage is said to be unsafe. The northernmost island of the group, called Pulo Swangy, bears nearly N. W. from Pulo Way.

The islands Great Banda, Banda Neira, Rosingeyn, and Pulo Way, produce excellent nutmegs; the soil of these islands being more favorable for the culture of the nutmeg tree, than the soil of Amboina.

Banda Neira is well fortified, particularly in the western channel, and here, the resident dwells, who governs these islands.

Geo. Site of Turtle Islands.

TURTLE ISLANDS three in number, are very low, covered with trees, and dangerous to approach in the night, being fronted by coral reefs which project 2 or 3 miles from them. The easternmost island is in lat. 5° 25′ S., lon. 127° 38′ E.,* bearing from the entrance of Amboina Harbour S. by W. ¼ W., distance about 33 leagues. The westernmost island is separated considerably from the other two, for the Sibbald had the easternmost island bearing N. N.W, ½ W., distant 10 miles, seen from the deck, with the trees on another island open to the westward of it, just visible from the poop, when the S.Westernmost island was seen from the wizen-top-mast rigging bearing about W. N.W.

Geo. Site of Lucepara Islands.

LUCAPIN-HAY, or LUCEPARA ISLANDS, in lat. 5° 40′ S.,† lon. 127° 21′ E. by chronometer from Amboina, lie about 5 or 6 leagues to the S.W. of the Turtle Islands; they form a group of five low isles, covered with trees, and cannot be seen above 4 leagues from the deck. The passage betwixt them and the Turtle Islands, is safe in day-light, being 4 leagues wide, through which the frigate Maria Reygersbergen passed with her convoy in 1805, when bound from Batavia to Amboina.

Geo. Site of Goonong Apy.

GOONONG APY, or BURNING ISLAND, in lat. 6° 35′ S., lon. 126° 40′ E. or 1° 35′ West from Amboina Flagstaff by chronometer, bearing S.W. ¾ S. from the Lucepara Islands, distant 23 leagues, is a high conical mountain which may be seen 15 or 16 leagues. It is in a state of ignition, with smoke generally issuing from the crater at the summit, and is bold to approach.

To sail from Amboina to Bauda.

DURING the strength of the EASTERLY MONSOON, in July, August, and September, ships from Amboina bound to Banda, should stretch to the southward, and they will generally fetch the coast of Timor. Here, the current runs often strong to the eastward in these months, and the wind becoming variable and veering more to the southward, enables ships to stand on the starboard tack about N. E. by E., and fetch Banda. This passage may be performed in six days; whereas, the route to the northward of Ceram, and round its eastern extremity, generally pursued by the Dutch, frequently requires more than double that time.

* Capt. Forbes, in the Sibbald, saw these islands, April 20th, 1816, in his passage along the North side of Flores, toward Amboina, and made the easternmost island in lat. 5° 26′ S., about lon.127° 50′ E.

† The Dutch frigates observations, place this group farther to the N. E., viz. from lat. 5° 27′ to 5° 33′ S., lon. 127° 33′ E.

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To sail from Amboina to Hindoostan.

SHIPS bound from AMBOINA, or from any of the other Molucea Islands, to Hindoostan, ought not to attempt the southern passage during the strength of the westerly monsoon; if they depart before the month of March, the northern route is preferable, particularly when bound to Bengal or the Strait of Malacca.

by the northern route in the westerly monsoon.

DEPARTING from AMBOINA. to proceed by the northern route, ships should endeavour to get over toward the Island Amblaw, and keep the East side of Bouro a-board, that they may benefit by its land winds and squalls, and avoid the S. E. currents which frequently prevail between Ceram and Amboina, and near Menlo., in the westerly monsoon. When abreast of the North point of Bouro Bay, the wind will generally permit ships to stand over about N. N. E. for Gomona and Oby Major; they should then proceed through the Gillolo Passage, or betwixt Geby and Gagy as circumstances require. Having cleared this passage, the progress will be stow, for S. Easterly currents prevail, with light N.W. and northerly winds, accompanied at times by squalls and rain. Every means ought to be used to get to the northward in this track, without minding if a little easting is made; for after reaching lat. 5° or 6° N., the N. Easterly winds may be expected, to run with to the westward.

Having in these latitudes, got into the edge of the N. E. monsoon, the best track is to steer to the northward of the Meangis Islands, for the South point of Mindanao, and after passing between it and the Serangaui Islands; a course should be pursued through the Strait of Baseelan, because the winds hang as much to the West as to the eastward of North. If a ship enter this strait in the morning, with a breeze from the Mindanao shore, she will probably get through before night, if the tide happen to he in her favor; she ought to keep along the North side of the strait, betwixt the Santa Cruz Islands and Mindanao, where water and refreshments may be got at Samboangan, if required.

From Samboangan, a W. N.Westerly course ought to be followed, to pass to the North of the Islands Sangboy and Teynga; from thence, steer for Cagayan Sooloo, and having passed it, a course ought to be steered to get into the latitude of Banguey Peak, when 8 or 9 leagues to the eastward of the Mangsee Islands. After passing through this strait, betwixt these islands and the North part of Banguey, a course should be pursued for the Strait of Malacca, agreeably to the sailing directions given for those places, where the descriptions of them will be found in the preceding sections of this work.

Southern route.

SHIPS from AMBOINA, bound to Hindoostan in March, may proceed by the southern Sentiment passage, and as the winds hang mostly from the westward in this month, it is advisable to stand up toward Bouro, and from thence work over near St. Matthew's Islands. Having approached these and Velthoens Island, a southerly course ought to be followed, and if the wind is favorable, it may be prudent for a ship to keep well to windward, and pass through the Strait of Alloo. This strait is preferable to that of Pantar, being much wider, and farther to windward in the westerly monsoon; and when clear of it, a ship ought to keep to the westward, in order to proceed through the channel between Sandalwood Island and Savu, into the open sea; or she may pass out on the East side of the latter island, if the wind be unfavorable for proceeding out by any of the channels farther to the westward.

DEPARTING from AMBOINA in April, May, June, July, or August, steer for Burning Island, for in April, the westerly monsoon fails, and is succeeded by light S. Easterly breezes. Care must be taken to give a birth to the Lucepara Islands, in passing toward Burning Island, which may also be left to the eastward; observing that the current sets often strong to the westward in the easterly monsoon: from thence, steer to make the West end of Wetter, or Dog Island, and proceed betwixt Pulo Cambing and the East end of Ombay, and between the latter and Timor, through the Ombay Passage. Being once so far to the southward as Rotto or Savu, the S. E. winds will begin gradually to increase in strength,

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and a course may be steered to pass out to the southward of Savu. The passage from hence to Hindoostan, may be accomplished in from 20 to 30 days by a ship that sails well.

If bound from Amboina, or Banda, to Batavia in these months, you should if leaving Banda, steer to make the high island of Roma, giving a birth to a shoal that lies about 8 miles off its N.W. point, then pass to the north of Wetter. From hence, steer for Pulo Cambing, and along the North coast of Flores, passing between Rusa Raji and it, if thought necessary, then along the North coasts of Sumbawa and Lombock; having brought the latter to bear to the southward, steer to pass to the N. Eastward of Urk, and between Kangelang and the Four Brothers; otherwise, you may steer from Lombock to pass between Hog Island and Gallon, and afterward along the North side of Madura and Java.

PASSAGE to CHINA, EASTWARD of NEW HOLLAND.

VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, AND THE CONTIGUOUS PORTS, WITH SAILING DIRECTIONS.

Passage to China, outside of New Holland.

THE PASSAGE to CHINA round to the eastward of New Holland, has been mentioned in Volume First of this work, where directions are given for sailing toward Van Diemen's Land, and through Bass' Strait, with a description of the principal headlands, islands, winds, and weather. It nevertheless, seems proper, to give farther directions for sailing into the places of shelter at Van Diemen's Land, and those on the coast of New South Wales, where ships bound to China or to Port Jackson, may procure fresh water, when in want of this necessary article, or repair any slight injury sustained by stormy weather.

Brief instructions will follow, concerning the passage from Van Diemen's Land toward China, but to enter into a particular description, of the innumerable islands interspersed throughout this part of the Pacific Ocean, would be impossible in a work of this kind; recourse must therefore be had to the best charts of the Pacific Ocean, by those who follow this route toward China.

Western coast of Van Diemen's Land.

VAN DIEMEN'S LAND,* on the western side, is generally a rocky shore, of sterile aspect, with reefs fronting it to the distance of 3 or 4 miles in some places; and a large S. Westerly swell usually rolls in upon it from the ocean. In many places this coast is low, but in several parts, the inland mountains stretch nearly down to the sea, having a white barren appearance.

Geo. Site of Cape Grim, and West Cape.

CAPE GRIM, in lat. 40° 41′ S., lon. 144° 46′ E., is the N.Westernmost promontory of the coast; and WEST CAPE, or SANDY POINT, is in lat. 41° 4′ S., lon. 144° 36½′ E. Hitherto, the West coast of Van Diemen's Land, was thought to be destitute of shelter for ships; but two harbours were discovered, in a vessel fitted out by Mr. Birch, a merchant of Hobarts Town, purposely to examine minutely the coasts. She performed the circumnavigation of the island in 39 days, about the end of 1815, and discovered the following two harbours.

* The S. Eastern coast, was discovered by Abel Janson Tasman, in 1642, who named it Van Diemen's Land; but it was not known to be an island, until Captain Flinders and Mr. Bass, in 1798–9, under the direction of Governor Hunter, sailed round it, who gave the name of Bass' Strait, to the sea that separates it from New Holland.

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Geo. Site of Macquarie Harbour.

MACQUARIE HARBOUR, in lat. 42° 12′ S., lon. 145° 28′ E., has on the bar at its entrance only 9 feet water, with a tide of 5 or 6 knots, consequently can only admit of small vessels passing over the bar; but inside, the water deepens to 10 fathoms, and decreases afterward gradually, in sailing up the harbour. The brig Sophia,* Captain Feen, after anchoring in 7 fathoms outside of the bar to wait for the flood tide, crossed over, keeping the starboard shore aboard, and after deepening to 10 fathoms, proceeded upward in a narrow channel between shoals, till 10 miles above the bar; and when 20 miles from the bar, the depth gradually decreased to 2 fathoms. Having proceeded about 2 miles farther up in the whale boat, the north bank of the harbour was found to consist of strata of coal denuded by the sea in some parts: these strata of coal were 6 feet thick, with a stratum of clay between them.

In passing upward in the boat, the entrance of Gordon River, which disembogues into the harbour, was computed to be about 50 miles from the bar, and in pursuing a course up this river, the first falls were discovered nearly 50 miles farther inland; the course of the river, being through what was thought the western mountains, directly East from the harbours' mouth.

Captain Feen, succeeded in sounding a passage, by which any vessel that can cross the bar, may proceed within ½ a mile of the falls, and anchor within 10 yards of the coal mine. The mountains on the northern shore, where the coal is, are barren, but the rest are generally covered with myrtle and pine. The brig took in a cargo of Huon pine, by drifting it down the river, which is excellent timber for joiners and cabinet work, boat building, and architecture.

Geo. Site of Port Davey.

PORT DAVEY, in lat. 43° 28′ S., lon. 146° 0′ E., situated to the S. E. of Point St. Vincent, and nearly 3 leagues to the northward of the southwest cape, is of great importance to the navigator, being an excellent harbour, separated into two arms, and extending several miles inland. The shores of this harbour, abound with that excellent timber called Huon pine, and it has the advantage of a fresh water river.

Geo. Site of Point St. Vincent, and of the S. W. Cape.

POINT ST. VINCENT, in lat. 45° 16′ S., lon. 145° 55′ E., having two peaked rocks on its extremity, is a projecting point of-land on the southern part of the West coast, with an opening round it to the S. Eastward, like that of a large river, which leads to Port Davey, described above. The S.W. cape is in lat. 43° 39′ S., lon. 146° 12′ E., which is a narrow steep point, projecting about a mile from the high land.

South Coast.

SOUTH COAST, resembles the western coast, and the projecting points are generally high, steep, and barren; some of them consisting of whitish stone, have the appearance of being covered with snow when viewed at a distance. There is no inducement for a ship to pass inside of the Mewstone, and Maat Suykers Isles, which lie to the eastward of the S. W. Cape; for although the openings betwixt it and the South Cape, appear at a distance, to afford shelter, they are all shoal bays, exposed to southerly winds: it is therefore, proper, to give a good birth to the western and southern coasts, particularly in the winter months.

Geo. Site of South Cape and adjacent isles.

SOUTH CAPE, in lat. 43° 58′ S., lon. 146° 56′ E., bears about true East from the S.W. cape, distant 11 or 12 leagues, and has peaked hills over it.

A good harbour, has been discovered on the east side of the South Cape, by Mr. Kelly, in the Henrietta Packet, the southern extremity of its entrance, called the South Head, being in lat. 43° 30′ S. It extends about 20 miles inland, and said to be capable of affording

* Belonging to Mr. D. M'Carty, who was then on board, being his second voyage from the Derwent to Macquarie Harbour.

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safe shelter for vessels in bad weather, although the depth of water, and other particulars relative to this harbour, have not yet been correctly ascertained.

In the offing, in lat. 43° 51′ S., lon. 147° 8′ E., lie the White Rock, and Eddystone, sometimes called Swilly Rocks, which are two in number, and the outermost is generally called the Eddystone. The latter has the appearance of a sail at a distance, the other is a high rock bearing about W. S.W. from it, and they are connected by a ledge of sunken rocks. MEWSTONE, in lat. 43° 46′ S., lon. 146° 31′ E., by Capt. King's observations, is a high ragged rock about 3 leagues off shore, and the channel is safe inside of it, and the other two rocks mentioned above.

Sidmouth Rock.

SIDMOUTH ROCK, discovered by Capt. William Gunner, of the ship Lord Sidmouth, March 5th, 1819, is situated about 5 miles N. Eastward of the Eddystone; the boat was sent to examine the rock, which was found to be about 100 yards in diameter above the surface of the sea, with a reef projecting from it about ½ a mile to the N. E. No bottom with 20 fathoms line could he obtained in sounding all round the rock, and the passage between it and the Eddystone appeared safe in case of necessity.

Another Rock.

A rock above water, said to have been seen by the Russian ship Rurick, in 1822, situated in lat. 44° S., lon. 147° 45′ E., and distant 9 leagues E. S. E. from the Eddystone, may probably be the same rock lately laid down in the Admiralty chart, under the name of PEDRO BRANCO.

Geo. Site of Tasman's Head. Islets off it.

TASMAN'S HEAD, in lat. 43° 32′ S., lon. 147° 26′ E., bearing true E. N. E. from the South Cape distant 8 or 8½ leagues, is a rocky headland, with three steep islets and two black rocks off it, called the Friars. This headland is the southern extremity of an extensive island that stretches northward, and is separated from the S. E. part of Van Diemen's Land by a safe navigable strait, explored by Admiral D'Entrecasteaux, in May 1792, and since called by his name.*

Port D'Entrecasteaux.

D'ENTRECASTEAUX'S CHANNEL, is the wide space formed between the South Cape of Van Diemen's Land and Tasman's Head; and near the coast on each side of it, there is a group of small islands. At the western extremity of this large bay, Port Recherche, or D'Entrecasteaux's Port is situated, where the navigator of this name remained near a month, found it safe, and very convenient for procuring wood and water. It is secured from most winds by the surrounding mountains, and the bottom is soft mud, with depths of 2½ to 3½ or 4 fathoms; the rise of tide which flowed only once in 24 hours, was about 6 feet perpendicular, high water from 9 to 12 hours at full and change of the moon, but influenced greatly by the winds. There is a rocky islet near the middle of the entrance of Port D'Entrecasteaux; and where the observatory was placed, near the entrance on the eastern side, the observed lat. 43° 32½′ S., lon. 147° 6′ E. of Greenwich. Variation 8° East.

Geo. Site of D'Entrecasteaux's Strait.

D'ENTRECASTEAUX'S STRAIT, is about 9 leagues in length N. N. E. and S. S.W., having several bays or harbours on the East side, where ships may lie sheltered from all winds; and the whole of the strait affords safe anchorage, in from 20 to 8 or 6 fathoms soft mud, mixed with sand in some places. There are several isles in this strait, but it is clear of hidden danger, and either shore may be approached with safety. Fresh water may be got at some of the brooks, which fall from the western shore into the coves near the North part

* It seems to have been in the following year, 1793, that Captain John Hayes, of the Company's Bombay Marine, explored the same strait, in the ships Duke and Duchess, and thought it a new discovery. He also explored the River Derwent, which stretches from the North entrance of the strait, a great way inland to the N.W. and westward.

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of the strait, and also in a bay at the S. E. part of it; but it is difficult getting the casks to the boats, on account of the muddy shores.

The South entrance of this strait is 4 or 5 miles wide, with depths of 30 to 20 fathoms water, decreasing gradually inside, and it is situated to the N. Eastward of Port D'Entrecasteaux. If a ship be taken with a gale of wind from S. E., when crossing between the South Cape and Tasman's Head, and find any difficulty in clearing either of these headlands, she may run directly to the northward into the channel, and through the South entrance of D'Entrecasteaux's Strait, then haul round the island that fronts the N. E. point of the entrance, and anchor in good shelter in the bay to the eastward of the point and island.

Adventure Bay.

ADVENTURE BAY, situated on the East side of the island that forms D'Entrecasteaux's Strait, contains good anchorage in 10 or 12 fathoms mud, but it is exposed to the swell when the wind blows from eastward; and fresh water is not easily procured, on account of the great surf that usually rolls in upon the beach.

Geo. Site of Penguin Island; Fluted Cape, and Cape Frederick Henry.

A very narrow neck of land, separates this bay from one of the deep bays in D'Entrecasteaux's Strait; and Penguin Island, which lies close to the point that forms the southern part of the bay, is in lat. 43° 21′ S., lon. 147° 32′ E. Fluted Cape is situated a little way to the S.Eastward of Penguin Island, and bears from Tasman's Head about 10 miles N. by E.; and Cape Frederick Henry, bearing about N. ¾ E. 8 miles from Fluted Cape, forms the N. E. extreme of Adventure Bay.

Cape Pillar.

Storm Bay.

North entrance of D'Entrecasteaux's Strait, with sailing direction.

CAPE PILLAR, in lat. 43° 12′ S., is situated about 7 leagues eastward from Cape Frederick Henry, having a rock on it like a pillar, and close to it lies an island and a rock. Betwixt these headlands, is formed STORM BAY, a deep gulf stretching to the N.W., with a large bay at its northern extremity, called North Bay, which forms a great elbow to the East and S. Eastward, called Norfolk Bay. At the western angle of Storm Bay there is a safe channel of 10 and 12 fathoms water, leading into the North entrance of D'Entrecasteaux's Strait, and into Derwent River. If a ship be suddenly taken with a S. E. gale between Tasman's Head and Cape Pillar, she may with safety steer to the northward round Cape Frederick Henry, then to the N.Westward and W. N.W. for the channel mentioned direction,. above; and after rounding the island and point that form the North side of the entrance, she may haul to the northward into Derwent River, which is safe and navigable for large ships to a considerable distance upward.

Derwent River.

DERWENT RIVER, at the entrance, is 2 miles wide, with depths of 10 to 12 fathoms; some rocks line the point on the East side of the entrance, but Shoal Point situated well up on the southern shore, is the only place of danger, to which a birth must be given by keeping close over to the cliffs on the opposite side. Here, the river is contracted to ½ a mile in width, and in sailing up thus far, Mount Direction is very conspicuous a-head, having a gap at the top, and it is situated in lat. 42° 48′ S. Risdon Cove, lies below this mount, where fresh water may be got, and a vessel drawing more than 9 feet, ought not to go higher, because the river becomes very shoal, and contracted by banks.

Hobart's Town, the seat of Government, was built by a colony from Port Jackson; and a communication is established over land between Port Dalrymple and Hobart's Town, which is now a place of importance, on account of its excellent harbour, and being well situated for trade. The surrounding country produces excellent crops of wheat, barley, and other grain, the soil being remarkably fertile; there is also mines of marl and lime, the climate is besides very favorable for agriculture, so that Van Diemen's Land has great natural resources.

The tide in Derwent River rises about 5 feet, and the time of high water precedes the passage of the moon over the meridian on any day about 4 hours; the stream in the river, is

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irregular and weak, seldom more than ½ a knot. In the upper part of the river, where the water is fresh, flocks of black swans feed on the long grass, which grows on the mud banks.

There is good anchorage in several parts of Frederick Henry Bay, which is formed outside of the channel leading to Derwent River, and to the North entrance of D'Entrecasteaux's Strait.

Geo. Site of Oyster Bay.

OYSTER BAY, in lat. 42° 42′ S., lon. 148° 8′ E., is formed on the West side of an island of considerable size, separated from the East coast of Van Diemen's Land, by a strait about a league wide. The best channel seems to be from the eastward, round the North side of the island, where the depths decrease regularly from 20, to 6, 5, or 4½ fathoms, in sailing through the passage to the anchorage, which is in 5, 4, or 3½ fathoms, at the entrance of the bay; and inside of it, the depths are 2 or 2½ fathoms. There is a pool of fresh water close to the southern shore, and another near the Peaked Mount, on the neck of land that separates this bay from another bay on the East side of the island.

Coast adjacent.

The coast from Cape Pillar to Oyster Bay Island, stretches true North about 10 leagues, and presents the same bold steep shore, as that which fronts the S. E. coast.

Geo. Site of Cape Portland.

North from Oyster Bay Island, about 4 leagues, lies the South extremity of a peninsula, with a great bay on the West side of it discovered by Captain Badin, and the South end of this peninsula, although called Schouten's Island, is found now to be a continuation of the main. From hence, the coast extends northward to CAPE PORTLAND in lat. 40° 49′ S., lon. 148° 15′ E., which is the N. Eastern extremity of Van Diemen's Land there are some hummocks on the pitch of this cape, with high land in the interior, but the circumjacent coast is generally low. From its eastern extremity the land of the cape extends 5 or 6 leagues to the W. N.W., forming an acute angle here, with a reef projecting several miles from it, and some islets, also the Swan Isles 6 or 7 miles to the eastward, having a small channel between them and the cape land.

North coast of Van Diemen's Land.

Geo. Site of Circular Head.

NORTH COAST of Van Diemen's Land, has generally very smooth water along it, the prevailing winds being off the land, and the long S.Westerly swell outside, being deflected over from Hunter's Islands toward the coast on the North side of Bass' Strait, leaves the southern shore generally in a smooth sea. CIRCULAR HEAD, in lat. 40° 43′ S., lon. 145° 15′ E., may be seen about 8 or 9 leagues, and it is the first projecting headland to the eastward of Cape Grim, the N.Western extremity of Van Diemen's Land; and the low sandy South island of Hunter's Group lies between them, united to the main by shoals. Table Cape, situated 8 leagues E. S. Eastward from Circular Head, is in lat. 40° 56′ S. and has a flat aspect with steep cliffs, which may be discerned 12 leagues, and Rocky Cape lies nearly midway between them. From Table Cape westward, the country appears sterile, and may be considered low and level at the western part, rising gradually to the eastward. From Table Cape to Port Dalrymple, the inland country is mountainous, generally of fertile aspect, and well covered with wood down to the sea. About 5 leagues to the eastward of Table Cape, a round bill stands close to the shore; and a few miles beyond it, a range of mountains extending from S.Westward, terminate abruptly in a bluff head, but this head projects not beyond the line of the coast.

From hence eastward to Port Dalrymple, the land near the sea is generally low, and there is a bight about 5 miles to the. West of that part.

On each side of Port Dalrymple, ranges of hills project from the inland mountains nearly to the sea, but from thence eastward to Cape Portland, the coast may be called low, with a sandy beach in most places. A stony head, situated 10 miles to the N. Eastward of Port Dalrymple, is the principal exception, which although not high, may be known by a small rocky islet bearing N.W. by W. from it by compass, distant 2½ miles, and being the only stony projection in this part of the coast.

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Geo. Site of Port Dalrymple.

PORT DALRYMPLE, seems to be the only harbour on the North coast of Van Diemen's Land, and Low Head, on the East side of the entrance, is the projecting part of a piece of sloping land, situated in lat. 41° 3½′ S., lon. 147° 11′ E., by mean of some lunar observations taken by Captain Flinders. The entrance of this port is not easily discerned, but the chains of hills projecting from the inland mountains on each side of it, and approaching nearer to the sea than they usually do in its neighbourhood, will help navigators to find it. When the entrance bears to the S. Eastward, that chain which comes to the back of Low Head, appears as a cluster of irregular hills, with the blue tops of the higher mountains peeping over them. The ridge on the West side of the port has a similar appearance, being formed by peaked hills of uncouth shape; and the stony head to the eastward, mentioned above, is the only projection on the East side of the port, that is not sandy.

This port is difficult of access, and as most of the shoals are covered at ½ tide, the best time to enter it, is with, or a little before the first of the flood, keeping a good look out for discoloured water from the mast-head. But strangers ought to make the proper signal for a pilot.

Hebe's Reef.

Western Reef.

The Hebe's Reef, on which the ship of this name was wrecked, June 15th, 1808, is the outermost known shoal off the entrance of Port Dalrymple, bearing from the flagstaff on Low Point or Point Clarence W. ¾ N. by compass about 5 miles distant, and probably extends farther to sea. The Hebe got on the shoal at high water, and had not less than 2½ fathoms on it, the swell being rather high at the time; but at low water, spring tides, the sea upon it appears discoloured. The Hebe's Reef, bears from the western reef about N. by W. true western bearing, distant about 2 miles; and the outer breakers on the western reef, bear West by compass from the flagstaff.

Captain Kent, of H. M. S. Buffalo, placed three beacons on the shoals at the entrance of this port, and has given the following directions for going in.

Directions for sailing into Port Dalrymple.

Steering in for Port Dalrymple, and being within 1½ mile of Low Head or Point, and a little to the westward of it, look out for a beacon with sheers on its top, which is placed on the East part of the easternmost of the western shoals. Bring this beacon on with the centre of the harbour, that is, the opening between the trees as high up as Green Island, steering by compass S. E. by S. until you are within ½ a mile of the beacon; this will keep you clear of the rocks and shoals to the westward, part of which are always dry, and also of the patches of weed which stretch out from Low Head. Look then out for a beacon placed on a half-tide rock, situated a full cable's length from the inner part of Low Head, toward which stand over, observing to give the sheer beacon a good birth, because a patch lies a large cable's length eastward from the beacon, having only 1 fathom on it at low water; and there are 2¾ fathoms between them. The half-tide rock beacon, is a cask placed on an iron bar about 14 feet high, and the West part of the rocks may be approached within 30 or 40 yards in any ship. From hence you may run up to Lagoon Beach, taking care not to haul too much to the eastward, as there is a patch of 2¾ fathoms more than a cable's length above the beacon. As Lagoon Beach is an exposed place, it is best to run up to Outer Cove, or above it, before anchoring, for the bottom between Low Head and Outer Cove, is thought to be either a smooth sloping rock, or loose stones. The Buffalo drove upon the eastern shoals with two bower anchors a-head, and both these anchors were hove up the bank from 15 to 2 fathom: the sheet-anchor laid out with a whole cable, and backed by the stream-anchor with 40 fathoms of cable to it, was also hove home a little, but ultimately took the ship off.

In standing up the harbour, when you are abreast of Lagoon Beach, keep the low part of Low Head a sail's breadth open to the westward of the half-tide rock beacon, which will lead you in mid-channel until you are up as high as the eastern shoals; you can then incline over to the westward, as the harbour here, takes a considerable bend that way, till you are up as high as the shoals which lie to the S.W. of Green Island. These half-tide shoals are very dangerous, having within a boat's length of them, 5, 7, and 9 fathoms; they may how-

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ever, be easily avoided, by looking out for a small sandy beach about ½ a mile above Outer Cove on the same side, bearing from the N. E. part of Green Island S. E. by E. by compass: take care to keep some part of this beach open to the eastward of Green Island, for if you shut it in, you are on shore immediately. Having passed those shoals, stand over to the N.W. point of Outer Cove, which is nearly steep to, and from thence into the Cove, where you can anchor in 9 fathoms sandy bottom, and moor with ½ a cable each way. In standing for the Cove, keep near the N.W. point, in order to avoid the Middle Shoal, over which the tides set strong; there is a beacon with a vane on its top, placed on this shoal. OUTER COVE, is not a very good place for a large ship, because it dries along way from the head; besides, there is little room, with eddy tides setting in every direction, and difficulty may be experienced getting out of it, with Westerly and W. N.W. winds.

As the prevailing winds are from N.W. to S.W., a ship may wait long before a leading wind is got to carry her out of the harbour; she will, therefore, probably be obliged to kedge, or back and fill out with the tide. During 24 days stay in this port, Captain Kent, never found the velocity of the tide above 2½ or 3 miles per hour, in the channel betwixt Green Island and Outer Cove; but it seems to have been greater when Captain Flinders partly explored this harbour, after he made the discovery of it in the Norfolk sloop.

The depths among the patches of weed which extend from Low Head over toward the western shoals, are generally from 3 to 2 fathoms; above Green Island, the bottom is all mud. Firewood abounds in this port. Fresh water may be got at the back of the beach near Low Head, and there is excellent water in the western arm of this large river, with probably safe anchoring places for ships; but no vessel ought to enter either that, or the passage toward the Middle Arm, without first examining the channels by boats.

The rise of tide is from 6 to 8 feet in the springs, high water on any day about a ¼ hour before the moon passes over the meridian, and the ebb runs out nearly 7 hours; the tides set irregularly on, over, and through among all the eastern and western shoals, at the entrance of the port. The flagstaff on Low Head, may be discerned a long way off, from which the Sheer Beacon is said to bear S. by W. ½ W. distant 1 mile, and the outer two beacons E. N. E. and W. S.W. of each other.

This port, seems not to be a convenient place for a large ship to enter, on account of the intricate passage between the shoals. The variation about 6 leagues to the westward of its entrance, was 8° Easterly in 1798, and 8½° East on the shore at Port Dalrymple.

Hunter's Islands.

Geo. Site.

To sail into Bass' Strait.

HUNTER'S ISLANDS, situated near the N.W. extremity of Van Diemen's Land, form a group of three large islands, with some smaller ones, and many islets or straggling rocks, fronting them to the westward: they have a barren aspect, and there possibly may be some rocks or dangers to the westward of them, not yet explored. The Black Pyramid in lat. 40° 33′ S., lon. 144° 22′ E., is the westernmost island of this group. ALBATROSS ISLAND, is the N.Westernnost, situated in lat. 40° 25′ S., lon. 144° 35′ E., and may be seen about 6 leagues. A ship steering for Bass Strait with a Southerly or S. W. wind, may keep in lat. 40° 25′ S. to fall in with Albatross Island, after which, Three-Hummock Island will immediately appear to the eastward, and remove any doubt concerning the land. But it seems not advisable to enter this channel, except in day-light with a good look out, as Reid's Rocks extend in patches from lat. 40° 13′ to 40° 18′ S., bearing S. by E. 3½ or 4 leagues from the S. E. point of King's Island; and although there are 30 fathoms water between these rocks and the point, this passage, is also contracted by rocks acid foul ground, projecting a considerable way from the South end of King's Island. Bell's Rock, a danger lately discovered, which lies about 2 leagues southward from Reid's Rocks, has been described in Volume First of this work.

The channel to the northward of King's Island, is therefore preferable, being clear of danger, excepting the Harbinger's Reefs, which are two large patches of rocks, distant 5 or 6

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miles to the West and N.W. of the North point of King's Island, already described in Volume First of this work; the sea generally breaks high upon them, and there is a passage between them and King's Island. The North point of the latter, bears about S. S. E. from Cape Otway, leaving a passage of 13 or 14 leagues between that Cape and the Harbinger's Reefs, with 52 fathoms sand and broken shells iii mid-channel. About 8 leagues East of King's Island, the variation was 8° 30′ East in 1802.

Capt. Lamb, of the Baring, August 28th, 1815, in entering Bass' Strait, passed near to Cape Otway, and found it fronted by a reef projecting out 1½ mile from the pitch of the cape; the sea broke high upon it, but none of the rocks appeared above water.

Crocodile Rock.

CROCODILE ROCK, was seen by the Wellington, January 25th, 1816; when it bore S. by E. 5 or 5½ miles, Curtis Island bore S. E. ¼ S. 4 leagues, Rodondo W. N.W. 7 or 8 miles, easternmost of the Moncur Islands South, Devil's Tower S. E. ½ S., and Hogan's Group E. by N.

Geo. Site of Waterhouse Island.

The North coast of Van Diemen's Land, from Circular Head eastward to Port Dalrymple, is clear of islands, except one or two small islets near the shore; but from hence to Cape Portland, several islands lie near the coast. The westernmost of these is small, called Tenth Island, in lat. 40° 56′ S., about 4 leagues E. N. Eastward from Low Head, or eastern extremity of Port Dalrymple, and 3 miles distant from Stony Head, which is the nearest shore. The next called Ninth Island in lat. 40° 51′ S. lies about 4 or 5 leagues E. N. Eastward from Tenth Island, and nearly 2 leagues from the Double Sandy Point, or nearest shore. WATERHOUSE ISLAND, in lat. 40° 48′ S., lon. 147° 32′ E., distant 4½ or 5 leagues to w to the eastward of Ninth Island, is the largest of those which lie near this part of the coast, having a channel about 2 miles wide between it and Point Waterhouse, with 5 and 6 fathoms water, but it seems only fit for small vessels; there is also a safe channel between the former islands and the coast. From Point Waterhouse to the N. W. extremity of Cape Portland, the coast forms a deep bay, about 5 or 6 leagues in breadth, which is considered to be clear of danger, but quite open to N.W, and Northerly winds.

Furneaux's Islands.

Geo. Site of Cape Barren.

FURNEAUX'S ISLANDS, separated from Cape Portland by Bank's Strait, form a great chain, extending about N. N.W. and S. S. E., and are situated at the S. E. part of Bass' Strait. Cape Barren, the S. E. extremity of the island of this name, which is the southernmost large island, is in lat. 40° 25′ S., lon. 148° 26′ E., and the peak on this island, with the ridge of hills that extends nearly to the cape, may be discerned about 10 leagues off. Soundings stretch a considerable way out from these islands, over a sandy bottom; their western sides generally present a steep rocky shore to the prevailing winds and sea, but their eastern sides usually slope down gradually into a sandy beach. Clark's Island, is the southernmost of the chain, its South extremity being in lat. 40° 34′ S. and forms the North boundary of Banks' Strait, which is about 3 or 3½ leagues wide between it and Swan Islands, fronting Cape Portland. Armstrong's Channel, formed between the South coast of Cape Barren Island and Clarks Island, is narrow, with shoals on each side; and although navigable by small vessels, ought not to be chosen in a large ship, as in some parts, the depths are only 2½ or 3 fathoms.

Preservation Island, situated at the western entrance of Armstrong's Channel, has good anchorage in from 3 to 5 fathoms, off the sandy beach on its eastern side, open only to southerly winds. The variation here was 9° easterly in 1802.

Great Island.

Geo. Site of the Sisters.

Great Island, the largest and northernmost of the chain, is very high on the West side, formed of barren peaked hills of various shapes: betwixt it and Cape Barren Island, there is a narrow strait, with many rocks and islets in it; and Babel Island, lies contiguous to the East point of Great Island, and other islands lie near it to the westward. The Sisters, near to, and fronting the North end of Great Island, resemble each other, and may be seen 8 or

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10 leagues; and the North Sister is in lat. 39° 38′ S., lon. 147° 56′ E. Craggy Isle is small, situated to the N.W. of the North end of Great Island, and nearly in a direct line from its northern extremity toward Kents' Groups, about mid-way between them; and to the N.Westward of Craggy Isle, lies a high rock in lat. 39° 36′ S., called by some navigators Wright's Rock: betwixt this rock and Kents' Groups, or betwixt it and Craggy Isle, or between the latter and the Sisters, the passage is equally safe in favorable weather, but the first is more capacious than the others. The tide, which runs strong through the narrow passages among these islands, rises from 3 to 6 feet, and the time of high water is about 10½ hours after the moon passes the meridian. The flood here, comes from the eastward, and at the western part of Bass' Strait, it comes in from the westward; whereby, the direction of the tides is irregular in several places, and they are weakest in the middle of the strait.

Tides.

PORTS, or PLACES of SHELTER, on the S. E. COAST of NEW SOUTH WALES; with SAILING DIRECTIONS to, and from PORT JACKSON.

Northern coast of Bass' Strait.

THE northern boundary of BASS' STRAIT, from Wilson's Promontory eastward, is low near the sea, fronted by a sandy beach of great extent, and stretches in an E. N. E. direction to Cape Howe. A ridge of hills inland, converges gradually toward the sea, until it joins the hills between Ram Head and Cape Howe, where the coast presents some rocky points of land.

Geo. Site of Cape Howe; adjacent coast.

Twofold Bay.

CAPE HOWE, in lat. 37° 30′ S:, lon. 150° 7′ E. is a low point of rocks and sand, with hills behind it, and forms a projecting part of the coast, which from hence takes a direction to the northward.* Green Cape, of smooth sloping aspect, bears North by compass from Cape Howe about 4½ or 5 leagues; a little farther northward, in lat. 37° 4′ S., TWOFOLD BAY is situated, the shores of which are not high, but consist of steep heads, rocky points, and sandy beaches, and the outer North and South points of the bay, have dry rocks close to them. The land at the back of this bay, is more hummocky than any of the parts contiguous, and a round mount situated to the S.W., about 5 leagues inland, may be seen at 15 leagues distance, above the other hills.

Twofold Bay, is a good place for whalers or other vessels to take shelter in, during blowing weather.

Snug Cove.

SNUG COVE, lies at the back of the steep stony head on the North side of the bay, where a vessel may be land-locked in 5 fathoms sandy bottom; and there seems to be room for two, or perhaps three ships in it, but the water shoals suddenly toward the head of the cove. At the anchorage on the South side of the bay, a vessel cannot be land-locked in more than 3 fathoms, and in deeper water she would be exposed to an N. by E. wind. Wood abounds all round the bay, but fresh water is only found in swamps near the anchorage; large boats, may enter the lagoon at the East end of the great South beach, at ½ flood. The tide rises 6 or 7 feet, high water about 3 hours before the moon passes the meridian.

* The East coast of New Holland, from Cape Howe to the northern extremity of this extensive country, was Explored by Captain James Cook, in 1770: the southern coast, and great part of the north-eastern coast, has been surveyed by Captain Matthew Flinders: and the north-western coast lately, by Capt. P. P. King.

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Geo. Site of Cape Dromedary; const adjoining.

Geo. Site of Cape St. George.

CAPE DROMEDARY, is a projecting headland in lat. 36° 18′ S., lon. 150° 9′ E., having a double mountain over it called Mount Dromedary, and a small island to the S.Westward; the coast between Cape Howe and this headland, is bold to approach within a reasonable distance, with soundings fronting it to the distance of 3 or 4 leagues. The coast from Cape Dromedary, extends North and N. by E. to Bateman Bay in lat. 35° 39′ S., which has several islands in it; and Lieut. R. Johnstone, R. N. in 1822, discovered at the head of the bay, the entrance of a fine clear, capacious river, with 9 feet water on the bar, deepening inside to 6 fathoms, and having from 7 to 4 fathoms for 25 miles upwards. Point Upright, lies about 2 leagues to the N. E. of this bay, and from thence, the coast stretches N. Eastward to Cape St. George in lat. 35° 10′ S., lon. 150° 50′ E., having several isles contiguous to the shore, and a remarkable mount called the Pigeon House, situated a little inland, in lat. 35° 30′ S.

Geo. Site of Jervis Bay.

JERVIS BAY* entrance, in lat. 35° 7′ S., lon. 150° 52′ E., is formed betwixt Bowen's Island (which touches the northern point of Cape St. George) and the peninsula called Long Jervis Lay. Nose, to the northward. It is about 1½ to 2 miles wide, with soundings of 15 and 20 fathoms; and inside, a spacious bay or harbour opens, extending North and South about 3 or 4 leagues, and about 2 leagues wide. Excepting where reefs project from some of the points, this bay is clear of danger, having regular soundings from 14 to 10 fathoms, decreasing to 7 or 8 fathoms near the shores on either side, with two inlets or rivers at the northern part. There is fresh water on the western side of the bay, betwixt the inlet and Cabbage Tree Point to the southward; but the best birth to anchor is in 7 or 8 fathoms, off a long sandy beach where a small bay is formed at the N. E. part of the harbour, called Port Bowen. Here, a ship will be land-locked, and sheltered from all winds. The North point of the entrance is moderately elevated, and rises perpendicularly from the sea; the course into the bay is about W. N.W., then round to N.W. and northward. There is room for ships of any size to work in or out, observing to give a birth to a rock that lies a large mile inside of the North point of the entrance, and nearly 1 mile distant from the eastern shore of the bay. The reef projecting from Rocky Point, must also have a birth, which lies to the northward of the rock last mentioned.

Geo. Site of Red Point; coast adjacent.

RED POINT, in lat. 34° 29′ S., lon. 151° 14′ E., has some isles to the southward of it. and the coast betwixt it and Jervis Bay, is safe to approach; but there is a shoal in the bay to the northward of Red Point. Betwixt this point and Point Solander, the coast forms a small concavity, having a range of whitish cliffs about 3 leagues to the southward of the latter, extending some distance farther South. The land over these, is moderately high and level, having upon it a small clump of trees.

Geo. Site of Cape Banks.

To sail into Botany Bay.

CAPE BANKS, in lat. 34° 0′ S., lon. 151° 23′ E., forms the North head of the entrance into Botany Bay, and Point Solander bounds it to the southward. The narrowest part of the entrance is about ½ a mile wide, and stretches in a N. Westerly direction, the depth of water decreasing from 16 or 18 fathoms outside, gradually to 6, 5, and 4 fathoms inside of the bay. To sail into this bay, keep about mid-channel betwixt the heads until fairly within them, then haul over a little to the northern shore, and anchor in 5, 6, or 7 fathoms.

Around the bottom and sides of this extensive bay, the water is very shoal, generally from 4 or 5, to 10 or 12 feet: although the anchorage fronting the entrance, is of considerable extent, where ships may lie in from 4 to 7 fathoms water, there is no shelter from easterly winds; and when these blow either from the N. E. or S. E. quarters, a heavy sea rolls into

* This bay was discovered by Lieut. Bowen, August 19th, 1791, and afterward explored by Mr. Matthew Weatherhead, of the ship Matilda, employed in the South Whale Fishery.

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the bay, rendering the anchorage at times unsafe. Fresh water is also scarce, on the shores that form the lower parts of the bay.

Port Jackson.

PORT JACKSON, where the first English settlement was established on this coast, January 25th, 1788, is one of the best and safest harbours in the world, and a stranger may go into it with ease, by conforming to the following directions, chiefly by Captain John Hunter;* who made an excellent survey of this spacious port, and was afterward governor of the colony.

Geo. Site.

Capt. King states, that the lighthouse at the entrance of the harbour, or Macquaries Tower is situated in lat. 33° 51′ 11″ S., lon. 151° 19′ 45″ E., being a revolving light that may be seen 8 or 10 leagues, erected on the South Head, in 1817, and it is a square pyramidal tower 65 feet high, being 4½ miles to the East of Sir Thomas Brisbane's Observatory at Sidney.

The latitude is the best guide to this port, or to any other upon the coast, and soundings generally extend 4 or 5 leagues off.

Directions for sailing into it.

In the winter months, there is much blowing weather on this coast, and as the gales from seaward prevail often between N. E. and S. E., it is prudent not to borrow too close to the shore, until in the latitude of the place. When in lat. 33° 50′ S., steer in for the coast, which here, extends about N. by E. ½ E. and S. by W. ½ W.; the entrance of the harbour will shew itself when you come near, by the Light House Tower, and by the heads on each side, which are high steep perpendicular cliffs, of a light reddish colour, having soundings from 15 to 12 fathoms between them. Although hard gales sometimes blow from seaward, yet strong westerly gales often prevail in winter, making it necessary to keep near the coast at such times; otherwise, much time may be lost getting in with the land, during the prevalence of these winds.

When, therefore, the wind blows strong from the westward, a ship should after passing Cape Howe, keep within 3 or 4 leagues of the coast, unless there be cause to apprehend a change of the wind.

A ship may run in betwixt the Heads without fear, which are distant from each other 1¾ mile; for the passage is clear, the shore pretty steep to, on both sides, and as the sea breaks on the rocks, even in fine weather, it will shew any that may be detached a little way from the shore. Steer in between the Heads for a high bluff point steep to, called Middle Head, or Cape, until you open a very extensive arm of the harbour to the southward. This arm or branch lies S.W. by compass, and if the wind be fair for sailing up it, along either shore, haul round the South or Inner Head, which is a low rocky point, and forms the easternmost or outer point of this arm. Give it a birth of 2/3ds of a cable, then steer right in for the first sandy cove above it, called Camp Cove; keep at a convenient but small distance from the shore, in 3½ and 4 fathoms, because fronting this cove there is a patch of rocks nearly in mid-channel, visible at ½ tide. The water shoals gradually toward this patch all round, upon a smooth sandy bottom, for it is rocky only about ½ a cable's length from the dry part. You may keep near the upper point of Camp Cove, in 6 and 7 fathoms, and from thence, steer directly up the harbour.

If you intend to proceed along the western shore, and to leave the patch of rocks or Middle Ground to the eastward; steer in as before for Middle Head until it is within a cable's length, then steer for the next point above it, on the same side, which must have a birth, because rocks project from it rather more than ½ a cable's length. This is the best channel, being a little wider than the eastern channel, and the depths in it are 4, 4½, and 5 fathoms.

* Afterward, Admiral Hunter. Directions for this place, and valuable remarks and instructions for the coasts of Australia, have been recently given to the public, contained in the Appendix to Capt. Philip Parker King's Surveying Voyages of those coasts, which ought to be procured, with his Charts engraved at the Admiralty, by all commanders of ships going to Australia, or Van Diemen's Land.

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Having passed this second point on the western side, the channel is safe from shore to shore, and you may run, or anchor, in any part of it at discretion.

If a stranger come in between the Heads with a southerly wind, it would be imprudent for him to venture to work up past the Middle Ground, but he may anchor near the Middle Head, or in the North part of the harbour with safety; pilots come off to ships when the signal is made for them.

Sidney Cove.

SIDNEY COVE, and TOWN, the chief settlement and seat of government, is about 5 miles within the Heads, on the South side of the Great Southern Arm of this extensive Core harbour; which abounds with inlets and coves, where ships may moor and careen. From the Middle Ground up to Sidney Cove, there is no hidden danger; the depths are mostly from 7 to 10 fathoms in mid-channel, and near the shore in some places, 4, 5, and 6 fathoms. The tide rises between 6 and 7 feet on the springs, high water at 8¼ hours on full and change of the moon. Variation of the compass 8¼° E. in 1788; 8° 42′ E. in 1822, and 9° 6′ E, at Garden Island, and 9° 42′ E. at Camp Cove, in the same year.

If a ship running for Port Jackson, should happen to be uncertain of her latitude, and fall in with the land on either side of it in blowing weather, she may take shelter in Botany Bay, or in Broken Bay, as circumstances require; for the former being about 4 leagues to the southward, annd the other about 5 leagues to the northward of Port Jackson, are of the utmost consequence for ships which may happen to be in bad condition, and unable to keep off shore.

Winds aud weather.

On this part of the coast, and round Van Diemen's Land, there is much stormy weather in the winter months, from April or May to October; but in the summer months, the weather is generally fine, with thunder, lightning, and strong Squalls at times. If at any time, lightning is seen in the lee part of the horizon, a pretty severe squall may to expected from that quarter. The winds in the vicinity of Port Jackson, blow more from the sea than from the land, in both seasons. The barometer generally rises with S. E. and easterly winds, which bring rainy weather from the sea; and it falls with westerly winds off the land, although they are accompanied with settled weather.

Winds and currents on the East coast of Terra Australis.

WINDS AND CURRENTS, on the East coast of Terra Australis, are thus described by Capt. Flinders.

From Cape Howe northward, S. E, winds prevail in summer, or from the beginning of October to the end of April, with land and sea breezes near the shore, and fine weather. But far South of the tropic, South or S.W. gales occasionally happen, and strong breezes between North and N. E., bring heavy rain, with thunder and lightning, which are usually of short duration, A sultry land wind from N.W. in summer, is commonly followed by a sudden gust between S. E. and S. S.W., against which a ship should be guarded, if near the coast. At such times, the thermometer at Port Jackson, has been known to fall from 100° to 64° in less than ½ an hour.

In winter, from May to September, westerly winds prevail, generally attended by fine weather: the gales in this season, blow from seaward, between N. E. and South, and bring rain: nor is there any settled weather in winter, with the sea winds, and even when between North and N.W., there is often rain, though the wind be usually light in those quarters.

While the prevailing winds are from S. E. in summer, and S.W. in winter beyond the tropic, the current almost constantly sets to the South, from 1 to 1½ mile per hour, its greatest strength being opposite to the points of land which project farthest out, and its limits may be considered at from 4 to 20 leagues off the coast. Farther out, there seems to be no regular current, and close in shore, especially in the bights, there is commonly an eddy current setting northward from to ¼ mile per hour. At the southern parts of the coast, its

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strength is greatest, and toward Cape Howe, it takes a direction to the eastward of South; whereas, in other places, it usually follows the line of the coast.

This exposition of winds and currents beyond the tropic, shews the advantage of keeping at not more distance than 3 or 4 leagues from the land, when sailing northward, and to touch on the coast; but in winter, this must be done with caution, because then, easterly gales often happen. And on this East coast, it may be taken as a general rule, that a rise of the barometer indicates either an increase of the present wind, or that it will veer more to seaward; and a fall denotes less wind, or a breeze more off the land. The barometer rises highest with a S. E. wind, and falls lowest with a N.W. wind: N. E. and S.W. are points of mean height.

To benefit by the current in sailing southward, a ship should not come nearer to the coast than 5 or 6 leagues, unless to the projecting points; and if the distance is increased to 10 or 12 leagues, so as to have the land only visible, an advantage would be gained, and no danger then to be apprehended from the gales.

While westerly winds prevail on the southern parts of the East coat, the S. E. trade blows with most regularity within, and close to the tropic, producing sea and land breezes near the shore, with serene weather; and the farther you go northward, the longer does this fine weather continue, till near Cape York, and at the entrance of Torres Strait, it commences in March or early in April, and extends to the middle or end of November.

Winds on the North coast.

On the North coast of Terra Australis, the S. Easterly monsoon prevails from March or April to November, often veering to East, or even to N. E., producing fine weather, with land and sea breezes near the shore. The N.W. monsoon sets in about the beginning or middle of November, and continues till near the end of March. This is the season of heavy rains, thunder, and lightning, and is thought to be the most unhealthy period.

Geo. Site of Broken Bay.

BROKEN BAY ENTRANCE, in lat. 33° 34′ S., lon. 151° 27′ F.., may be known by the land projecting from the North Head, to a considerable distance eastward; the distance between the North and South Heads is 2 miles, with depths of 12, 10, and 8 fathoms, decreasing to 7, 6, and 5 fathoms, as you sail up the bay, which is large and clear of danger.

The entrance of the northern branch, turns round inside of the North Head, which is shoal, and navigable only by boats or small vessels; for the channel into it, is rendered very narrow, by a long spit of sand extending from a low sandy point on the West side of the entrance, on which the sea breaks high when the wind is at eastward.

Sailing directions.

The entrance of the southern branch, called Pitt-Water, is situated a little inside of the South Head, and forms a good harbour, although the entrance is contracted by a shoal bank, which extends from the eastern point full 2/3 across. The West point of this branch is high, steep, and rocky, and pretty bold to approach; keep it and the western shore a-board, and steer right up the branch, where the depth in the narrows is only 3 fathoms at low water, for a short space; but in running up, you soon deepen to 4, 5, 6, and 8 fathoms. The depths decrease gradually to the shoal that narrows the entrance, and when you are above the second point on the western shore, there is plenty of room and good depths of water; you may then run up in mid-channel without fear, both shores being pretty bold to, except from some of the points, shoal water extends to a small distance.

There are several coves in this branch, where a ship might lighten and careen, with abundance of wood, and fresh water in various parts of the harbour; fish may be caught in all the sandy bays.

The S.W. or western branch, is the best harbour for large ships, and it is separated from the southern branch by several rocky points, with steep high land over them, between which, there are some small sandy bays. Fronting the mouth of this branch, there is a high rocky island of small extent called Mount Elliot, which at the East end is of great perpendicular height, and answers as a good mark for any part of the bay. It is advisable for a stranger

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coming in here to be sheltered from a gale of wind, to steer for the island, which may be passed on either side, but in steering for the S.W. branch, the direct passage is to the southward of the island. Keep mid-channel between it and the South shore, which is bold to approach within 2 cables' lengths. In the way up, you will see a branch stretching to the N.W., and when thus high, you are above a bank or Middle Ground having 16 feet on it at low water, with a gradual decrease of depth toward it. This bank may be passed on either side, by keeping near the shore; on the North side of it there are 5 fathoms, but the channel along the southern shore has most room and deeper water, where a ship may anchor well sheltered and land-locked. If you wish to go higher up the S.W. branch, when above the middle ground, keep in mid-channel, and the least water will be 5 or 6 fathoms several miles higher. Some inlets extend from this branch, with good depths of water in them for ships.

Hawkesbury River.

If you intend to enter the N.W. branch, when above the Middle Ground, steer for the larboard shore of the entrance, and keep near it for some distance up, because a shoal stretches ⅓ of the distance over from the starboard shore. When clear of this shoal, the channel turns from the larboard, into the bay on the starboard shore; and then it takes a northerly and afterward a westerly direction, betwixt that shore and some islands on the opposite side. This N.W. branch, has several inlets stretching a great way into the country, and Hawkesbury River falls into it from the westward; this river is navigable by boats and small vessels a great way up, the depths being from 2, to 6 or 7 fathoms about 40 miles above the sea. The ebb tide runs pretty strong in the river, and the flood rises about 6 to 8 feet; but being situated in a valley, betwixt a chain of mountains on each side of the level land that forms the upper part of its banks, is therefore liable to destructive inundations. These are occasioned by heavy rains falling upon the mountains, which afterward rush down the valley in torrents, sometimes swelling the river from 20 to 30 feet perpendicular height above its common level, and destroying every thing that is opposed to their course.*

To sail from Port Jackson by the southern passage.

SHIPS bound from PORT JACKSON to Europe or to Hindoostan, may proceed by the southern passage, through Bass' Strait or round Van Diemen's Land, if they depart between September 1st, and April 1st: in the months of January, February, and March, more particularly, S. Easterly winds frequently prevail about Van Diemen's Land, and near the South coast of New Holland, enabling ships to make great progress to the westward. But they ought to preserve a considerable distance from the South coast, in order to benefit by every change of wind that may happen in their favour, and to avoid being driven too near the land by southerly or S.W. gales, which are liable to happen at times.

The strong westerly gales which prevail here in winter, render the southern passage difficult; yet it has sometimes been performed even in that season, by ships which were in good condition, and sailed well.

The ships Guilford, and Batavia, left Port Jackson early in June, 1817, intending to proceed by the Southern Passage, along the southern coast of Australis, but the former ship was unable to beat round, and returned to Port Jackson, to refit her damaged rigging and sails. The Batavia effected her passage, but suffered much from the severity of the weather, which rendered an extensive repair necessary on her arrival at Calcutta.

Capt. P. P. King, after having completed his surveys of the Australian Coasts, left Port Jackson, September 25th, 1822, in the surveying brig, Bathurst, with the intention of proceeding northward through Torres' Strait, but a hard gale set in from the North, which induced him to bear away, in order to proceed round Van Diemen's Land to the westward if

* Much of the land, corn, cattle, sheep, &c. belonging to the colonists on the banks of Hawkesbury River, were destroyed by one of these torrents not long ago, and many of the inhabitants swept away.

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the wind permitted; or, by doubling the South end of New Zealand, to make the eastern passage round Cape Horn.

Having reached the S. E. end of Van Diemen's Land, October 6th, with a brisk N. E. wind, he proceeded along its southern coast, and had a succession of heavy westerly gales, with much damp weather, till November 8th, when he made Bald Island, stood into King George's Sound, and anchored off the sandy bay within Seal Island to repair the rigging, and get a supply of wood and water. The vessel was afterward moved to a better sheltered anchorage off the Watering Bay, and on December 1st, after two attempts, she succeeded in getting out of the sound into the open sea, and reached Simon's Bay at the Cape of Good Hope, January 14th, without having encountered a gale of wind after leaving King George's Sound.

The ship Alexander, Captain Norman, left Port Jackson in November, or December, bound to Bombay, and got easily to the westward by the southern passage.

The ship Lady Barlow, Captain M'Askill, came through Bass' Strait in January, when hound from Port Jackson to London, about 1806, and proceeded to the westward with variable winds, frequently at East and S. Eastward. In lat. 28° S., they got the S. E. trade wind, and Captain M'Askill thinks, the passage from Port Jackson to Bengal, would have been performed in two months, had he been bound there.

A Whaler, proceeded lately through Bass' Strait, and beat to the westward in June, but she experienced much blowing weather. Captain Lamb, in the Baring, from Port Jackson, bound to Bengal, passed to the westward through Bass' Strait in two days, early in November, 1815; nor in August, with the winds he previously experienced, would there have been any difficulty in getting to the westward through the strait, and round Cape Leeuwin. The Guilford, left Port Jackson, March 30th, 1812, passed round Van Diemen's Lind, went as far as lat. 48° S., where with N. E., East, and S. Easterly winds, she speedily got to the westward, entered into the S. E. trade in lat. 26½° S., and arrived, May 31st, in the River Hoogly, after a passage of two months from Port Jackson.

To sail to Europe by the Cape Horn Passage.

SHIPS bound to EUROPE in the SUMMER MONTHS from PORT JACKSON, will generally make a quicker passage round Cape Horn than by any other route, for the prevalence of westerly winds in high southern latitudes, are favorable for that passage. Capt. Hunter left Port Jackson in H. M. S. Sirius, October 2d, 1788, stood to the South and S. Eastward until in lat. 50° S., and kept mostly betwixt this parallel and lat. 56° S., in running to the eastward. In lat. 57° S., lon. 76° W. of Greenwich, they saw many ice islands, November 23d; passed Terra del Fuego 26th, in sight of the land, and sailed to the N. Eastward, constantly among ice islands, until the last piece of ice was seen, December 21st, in lat. 44° S., lon. 35° W. Some of them were small, others 2 or 3 miles in circumference, and about 300 feet of perpendicular height. Had it not been for the short nights at that time in high South latitude, where scarcely an hour could be called dark, considerable danger would have been experienced in sailing among those vast numbers of ice islands, which were almost constantly seen on both sides of the ship. At this time, the sea was overspread with them from South Georgia to lat. 46° S., and they seemed to have been drifted from that island, or from Sandwich Land,* by southerly winds; and were probably separated from the land in the spring, or by a storm during the winter. After passing Cape Horn, the Sirius had mostly N. Easterly winds for 15 days, she nevertheless arrived in Table Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope, January 1st, 1789, after a passage of 91 days from Port Jackson.

Lieutenant Ball, in H. M. S. Supply, sailed from Port Jackson, November 26th, 1791, kept in lat. 50° to 57° S., passed in sight of Cape Horn, January 6th, 1792; southerly winds continued after rounding the Cape and Staten Land, with which they steered to the north-

* Or perhaps from South Shetland, at that time not discovered.

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ward; and although some N. E. winds were afterward experienced, they arrived at the island St. Catherina, on the coast of Brazil, February 1st, after a passage of only 67 days from Port Jackson.

Although this ship was as far South as the Sirius, in rounding Terra del Fuego, no ice islands were seen during the passage, which difference might have been occasioned by the Supply passing it later in the season. The southerly winds also enabled her to steer a northerly course after rounding Cape Horn, by which she avoided that part of the sea adjacent to South Georgia, where the greatest quantity of ice is generally found.

The Minstrel left Port Jackson, July 6th, 1813, steered to pass to the North of New Zealand, but a heavy gale of wind which suddenly changed from N. N. E. to West, drove her very close to the shore, a little southward of Cape Maria. On the 16th, after the gale moderated, she cleared this cape, and steered to the eastward, gradually increasing the lat. to 40°, 50°, and at last to 60° when she approached Cape Horn; the prevailing winds were strong from W. N. W. to W. S. W., sometimes veering to North, N. E., S. E., and South, but these winds were of short duration. She passed Cape Horn, August 29th, in lat. 57° 46′ S., distant 130 miles from it, with strong S.W. winds; afterward, passed about 120 miles to the eastward of Falkland Islands, September 2d, and made the coast of Brazil near Rio Janeiro, September 16th.

Other ships which have pursued the route from Port Jackson round Cape Horn, have in general made favorable passages into the Atlantic Ocean; but as stormy weather and high seas may be expected at times in high southern latitudes, this route ought not to be chosen in a leaky or crazy ship; and those who pursue it, ought particularly to keep a good look out for ice islands in the vicinity of Cape Horn, and after passim it, to the eastward.

Passage round that Cape to the westward.

The passage from Port Jackson, and Van Diemen's Land, round Cape Horn, is now frequently used by ships bound to England in the winter season; and since South Shetland has been discovered, and the trade opened on the Western coasts of South America, many ships pass round that cape to the westward in the same season, without encountering much difficulty. The Southern Whalers, belonging to Messrs. Enderby, frequently pass round to the westward in winter, for although the days are short and the nights long, yet in this season the ice is consolidated to the southward, and ships are not liable to encounter loose ice, if they do not go far south near the fields. By keeping within a moderate distance of the land, the winds may be expected more variable, enabling ships to get quicker round to the westward, than if they went farther south, where the westerly gales blow more constant than near the land.

During the early part of the summer, in October to December, probably many large pieces of ice may be subject to disruption from the solid mass, and then he drifted to the northward in the proximity of Terra del Fuega: but late in the summer, in January to March, the accumulative heat of the ocean and atmosphere, may be expected to dissolve all the loose pieces of ice before they are drifted far from the solid mass, thereby leaving the sea clear to the northward near Cape Horn.

One of H. M. ships, lately, passing round the Cape to the westward, in April and May, experienced much blowing weather from the west, with hail storms, and her rigging was frozen at times.

Captain Weddell,* observes as follows, relative to the passage to the westward round Cape Horn. In the beginning of November, the winds draw from the northward, and continue to be frequent till about the middle of February, when they shift to the S. W. quarter: during this period the westerly winds are not lasting, hence, the passage may be easily effected. From about the 20th of February to the middle of May, the winds usually blow with great

* Navigators intending to pass round Cape Horn, should be in possession of Capt. Weddell's Voyage towards the South Pole, published in 1825, which will be found a very valuable acquisition in these seas.

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violence between S.W. and N.W., and no ship during this interval, need expect to make a passage round the Cape, that is not in excellent condition. From the middle of May to the end of June the winds prevail from the eastward with fine weather; and during these six weeks, a ship may round the cape in sight of Diego Ramirez. From the beginning of July to the beginning of November, the winds again, prevail between S.W. and N.W.; but in August and September are more particularly tempestuous. In March, August and September, when the most violent gales prevail, if a ship should happen to be rounding the Cape, it is considered best in these months, to keep well to the southward in lat. 59° to 60° S., where the sea is more regular, and the winds more equal. In doing this, care must be taken not to approach too near to the South Orkney Islands, situated between lat. 60° 20′ and 61° S. and lon. 45° to 46° 30′ W.: but more particularly of South Shetland, situated between lat 61° and 63° S., and extending in a W. S. Westerly direction from lon. 54° W. to 63° W., having a wide channel between this great chain of Islands and Trinity Land, situated more to the southward.

A quick passage from Chili to Bengal.

Some ships, have made a speedy passage from South America across the Pacific Ocean, Captain Peircy, sailed from Valparaiso in January, 1814, and after crossing that ocean, entered the China sea by the Bashee Passage, then proceeded through Malacca Strait, and arrived in Bengal River in 2 months and 26 days from Valparaiso.

Geo. Site of Macquarie's Islands.

Geo Site of Campbell's Island.

Ships which pass far to the southward of Van Diemen's Land, or New Zealand, ought to keep a good look out, for probably, some undiscovered islands or dangers may exist in that part of the ocean. Those already known are, MACQUARIE'S ISLAND, in lat. 54° 42′ S. lon. 159° 45′ E., of considerable extent North and South, having about 7 or 8 leagues to the N. N. Eastward of its North extremity, some rocky islets called the Judge, and Judges Clerk. About the same distance to the southward of its South extremity, other rocks called Bishop, and Clerk, are situated in about lat. 55° 15′ S. CAMPBELL'S ISLAND, in lat. 52° 32′ S., lon. 169° 30′ E. is small, and was discovered by Captain Walker, employed in the seal fishery by Mr. Campbell, then residing at Port Jackson, and Macquarie's Island was also discovered by the same navigator.

Geo. Site of Lord Auckland's Islands.

Snares.

Geo. Site of Antipode's Island and others.

LORD AUCKLAND'S ISLANDS, discovered by Captain Bristow, in the Sarah, in 1806, extend North and South about 6 leagues, their centre being in lat. 50° 44′ S., lon. 165° 0′ E. The large island has a harbour on the East side, called SARAH'S BOSOM, which is formed and secured from the sea by Green Island, and some reefs at the entrance bounding it on the outside. Several islets or rocks lie contiguous to the large island, of which, Adam's Isle is at its southern extremity, and Bristow Rock a few miles to the northward of its N. E. point. The Snares in lat. 48° 10′ S. are two small isles, situated nearly on the meridian of Lord Auckland's Islands, about 20 leagues to the S. S.W. of the southern extremity of New Zealand, and there are other islands and dangers nearer to the latter. Farther to the eastward, Antipodes Island is situated in lat. 49° 35′ S., lon. 179° 30′ E., Antipode's and which is small. Bounty Islands lie in lat. 47° 32′ S., lon. 179° 2′ E.; and in lat. 44° 36′ S., lon. 184° 332′ E., a small group of islands was discovered by H. M. S. Cornwallis, May 16th, 1807, thought to lie contiguous to Chatham Island.

SAILING DIRECTIONS from VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, or PORT JACKSON, by NORTHERN ROUTES to INDIA or CHINA.—CONTIGUOUS ISLANDS and DANGERS.

PREVIOUS to giving directions for any of the northern passages from Port Jackson, it

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Geo. Site of Lord Island, and other islands or dangers.

may be useful to state the geographical situations of the islands or dangers which lie nearest to this route. LORD HOWE'S ISLAND, in lat. 31° 26′ S., lon. 159° 0′ E., is of considerable size, and BALL'S PYRAMID, situated 3½ or 4 leagues to the South of it, is a high rock, with others contiguous. MIDDLETON'S ISLAND, in lat. 28° 13′ 8., lon. 160° 31′ E., is small, and a shoal of the same name, is placed in lat. 29° 14′ S., lon. 158° 53′ E. by Captain Flinders. An extensive reef about 3 leagues in length was seen in July, 1815, by the Indefatigable, supposed to be Middleton's Reef, but their time-keeper being incorrect, its longitude was not ascertained.

Geo. Site of Elizabeth's Reef.

ELIZABETH'S REEF, in lat. 30° 5′ S.; lon. 159° 0′ E. by chronometers, was discovered by the ships Claudine and Marquis of Hastings, in company, at 2½ P. M., May 16th, 1820, returning from Port Jackson toward Torres Strait. At 5 P. M. when within 2 cables' lengths of the reef had 14 fathoms hard rocky ground, at ¼ mile distant from it 25 fathoms, then no ground. It appeared to be of quadrangular form, about 3 miles in circuit, with deep water in the centre, the edges of which (with the exception of a few rocks like Negro heads) are covered, and the sea runs high over them. The East side of the reef extends about N. N. E. and S. S. W. 1 mile, but the greatest extent appeared to be from W. N.W. to E. S. E.

From Port Jackson to Sandy Cape, the coast of New South Wales has few dangers, excepting some near the shore. Those most in the way of ships passing along the coast to the northward, are the Solitary Isles about 3 leagues off shore, in lat. 29° 56′ to 30° 9′ S., lon. 153° 21′ E., having a reef in lat. 30° 11′ S. to the S. W. of the southernmost island. Shoals in lat. 28° 7′ S., lon. 153° 39′ E. distant 2½ leagues East of Point Danger, having Mounts wale,, Warning, a high hill inland to the S. Westward, in lat. 28° 24′ S. A shoal in lat. 26° 58′ S., lon. 153° 28′ E., lies about 2 leagues N. E. from Cape Moreton, and about 11 leagues to the East of the hills called Glass Houses.

Geo. Site of Sandy Cape.

Direction of the coast.

SANDY CAPE, in lat. 24° 42′ S., lon. 133° 17′ E., forms a sandy peninsula, having Hervey's Bay, about 11 leagues wide, and the same depth, on its West side. The coast, which to the distance of about 4° to the southward of Sandy Cape, lies nearly North and the South, with some concavities, from this cape turns round to S. S.W. and Westward, forming Hervey's Bay, and afterward it extends in a N. Westerly direction to Cape York, the southern boundary of Torres Strait. The whole of this part of the coast is fronted with numerous islands and reefs, and having the Barrier Reefs at the distance of more than 2° in some places, ought to be avoided by all ships bound to the northward, if they intend to enter Torres Strait by the Eastern Fields and Murray's Island. As the Barrier Reefs commence a little way to the northward of Sandy Cape, it is prudent to take a departure from this cape, and to keep to the eastward of its meridian in steering northward between Wreck Reef and the Barrier Reefs. The variation off Sandy Cape was 9° 30′ East in 1803.

Geo Site of Cato's Bank.

CATO'S BANK, in lat. 23° 6′ S., lon. 155° 23′ E., is a dry sand surrounded by breakers, discovered by Captain Flinders, August 15th, 1803.

Geo. Site of Wreck Reef.

WRECK REEF and SAND BANK, where the Cato and Porpoise were lost, at night, August 15th, 1803, in lat. 22° 11′ S., lon. 155° 19′ E., is the central part of a chain of six coral reefs, extending nearly East and West from lon. 155° 7′ to 155° 28′ E.; the easternmost is covered with wiry grass, and some shrubs, and called Bird Islet. The rise of tide here was 6 or 8 feet, high water at 8¾ hours; variation 9° 17′ E

Geo. Site of Booby and Bellona Shoals.

Farther to the N. Eastward, Booby Shoal is placed by Captain Flinders in lat. 21° 2′ S., lon. 159° 2′ E., and the Bellona's Shoals in lat. 20° 55′ S., lon. 159° 47′ E.

Mid-Day-Reef.

CARNS, or MID-DAY REEF, is described as follows by Capt. R, Carns, who discovered it in the ship Neptune from Port Jackson, bound to Calcutta.

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Geo. Site.

June 20th, 1818, took a departure from Sandy Cape, and steered to keep mid-way between the Great Barrier and Wreck Reefs. On the following day, at noon, saw breakers a-head stretching to the Eastward as far as could be seen from the mast-head, and about 5 miles to the Westward; wore immediately, and bore away for the western extremity, which we passed within 2 miles. This part, measured by good chronometers, bears from Sandy Cape N. 21° E. distant 176 miles, or in lat. 21° 58′ S., lon. 154° 20′ E. I called it Mid-day Reef, thinking it to be a new discovery, as the western end of Wreck Reef is placed in lon. 155° 7′ E., they cannot be one and the same.

When passing the western extremity of the reef, it appeared to extend East as far as could be discerned from the mast-bead, consisting of sand banks and rocks, some just visible above water, others elevated from 5 to 20 feet. There seemed to be several passages between the sand banks, but we thought it would be too great a risk to attempt any of them, as the wind blew strong.

I can depend upon the accuracy of our observations in settling the position of this reef, and think it renders the navigation critical between the Barrier and Wreck Reefs.

Geo. Site of Sir James Saumarez Shoal.

SIR JAMES SAUMAREZ SHOAL, in lat. 21° 40′ S., lon. 153° 46′ E by chronometer, was seen by Mr. Lihou; and there is reason to suppose that many other reefs exist to the N.W. of this position.

Geo. Site of Frederick Reef.

FREDERICK REEF, discovered in 1812, by the ship of this name, and upon which the Queen Charlotte was wrecked, not long since, extends from lat. 20° 45′ to 21° 0′ S., and from lon. 154° 15′ to 154° 37′ E. This ship also saw a reef in lat. 20° 44′ to 21° 2′ S., lon. 150° 32′ E.

Geo. Site of Horse Shoe Shoal.

HORSE SHOE SHOAL, seen by Lieut. Vine, its northernmost end is in lat. 20° 5′ S., lon. 151° 50′ E., and having the convex or outer edge to the southward, extending as far as 15 miles to the south and east.

Geo. Site of Baring's Shoals.

BARING'S SHOALS, are a cluster of detached reefs and banks, apparently situated betwixt lat. 20° 40′ and 21° 50′ S., lon. 158° 15′ and 159° 50′ E., by which, Capt. Lamb, in the Baring, was embarrassed three days in August, 1819, bound from Port Jackson to Bengal. One of these is a sandy island in lat. 21° 24½′ S., lon. 158° 30′ E., by mean of four chronometers, and a reef extended from it E. S. Eastward as far as the eye could discern. These reefs seem connected by a bank of soundings, as the Baring continued to have soundings from 10 to 48 fathoms during the three days she was among them, but breakers were frequently seen; also an immense number of whales, apparently of the sperm kind. This bank was supposed to unite with BOOBY and BAMPTON SHOALS, and Capt. Lamb is of opinion that many undiscovered dangers exist in this part of the ocean.

Capt. Welch, of the Claudine, in 1820, saw a reef, which he named CLAUDINE'S REEF, bearing West 6 miles from the south end of Booby Island, having a clear passage between them, and he made the reef in lat. 21° 19′ S., lon. 159° 4′ E. by chronometers.

Minerva's Shoal.

MINERVA'S SHOAL, was discovered by Capt. Bell, in the ship of this name, in his passage from Port Jackson towards India, of which he has given the following description; and it seems to be a continuation of the Baring's Shoals to the eastward, for the Minerva's soundings were on the eastern part of the bank seen by the Baring.

July 8th, 1818, at mid-night, sounded in 33 fathoms coral, hauled up to the Eastward, and had from 33 to 30 fathoms sand and coral in a run of 5 miles, then tacked to the S. W. and steered 8 miles in this direction, the depth gradually increasing to 36 fathoms. At day-light Steered N. by E. with the lead kept going, and had from 30 to 35 fathoms coral and sandy

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bottom: at 11¼ A. M. had no ground at 40 fathoms, but immediately afterwards found ourselves on a bed of coral, with soundings of 10 to 15 fathoms, and the rocks quite visible. Hauled on a wind to the S.W., shoaled to 9 and 8 fathoms, and the water appearing shoaler in that direction, wore at 11½ A. M., steered to the Eastward, and deepened quickly to 30 and 40 fathoms.

Geo. Site.

When we first got soundings, our lat. was 21° 22′ S., lon. 159° 10′ E. by four good chronometers, in a run of eight days from Port Jackson: at noon our lat. 20° 50′ S., lon. 159° 22¾′ E. When upon the shoalest part, our situation was directly between the Shoals of BOOBY and BELLONA, as marked in Capt. Flinders' chart.

Kenn's Reef.

Geo. Site.

KENN'S REEF, discovered by Capt. Alexander Kenn, of the ship William Shand, on her passage from Port Jackson toward Torres Strait, April 3d, 1824, consists of rocks and nee sand banks, partly above water, extending S. E. and N.W. about 9 miles, and apparently 6 or 7 miles in breadth. There appeared to be no soundings close to the reef, where they passed within 1½ mile of its eastern edge, and made the centre of that part in lat. 21° 9′ S., lon. 155° 49′ E. by chronometer, measured from Port Jackson, in a short run of five days. This dangerous reef is much in the way of such ships as pass some distance to the eastward of the track laid down by the late Capt. Flinders, in his general chart.

Geo. Site of Hampton's Shoal.

BAMPTON'S SHOAL, discovered in 1793, by Captain Bampton, of the Shaw Hormazier, on his passage from Port Jackson toward Torres Strait and Bombay, extends from lat. 18° 49′ to 19° 30′ S., lon. 158° 2′ to 158° 45′ E. It has the form of a horse-shoe, being a narrow coral shoal, of great capacity inside, with a wide entrance from the southward, and having two isles with trees on its eastern side; but there is no outlet except at the South part, nor are there any soundings at the mouth of, or in the great bason formed by the shoal, into which the above named ship got in the night, and bad great difficulty in beating out of it, against the trade wind.

Avon's Islands.

Geo. Site.

AVON'S ISLANDS, examined by Capt. Sumner, of the Avon, in his passage from Port Jackson toward Torres Strait, September 17th, 1823, are small, low, covered with trees, bearing E. S. E. and W. N.W. distant 2 miles from each other, having reefs projecting from both of them to the E. S. E., but otherwise seemed safe to approach. The boat found soundings between them of 9 to 20 fathoms coral bottom, and there appeared to be a clear channel between them and a range of breakers seen to the S. E., thought to be Bampton's Shoal. These islands are in lat. 19° 30′ S.,* lon. 158° 12′ E. by chronometers, and 158° 10½′ E. by lunar observations.

Alert's Reef.

ALERT'S REEF, discovered by Capt. Brodie, to the Eastward of New South Wales, in his passage from Port Jackson to Calcutta, in the Alert, belonging to the latter place, is described by him as follows.

Geo. Site.

October 4th, 1817, at 9½ A. M., saw breakers about 7 miles distant, extending in a N. E. and S.W. direction. At 10 saw two small sand islets bearing from N. N. W. to N.W.; hauled up N. E. to avoid the danger. At noon, the islets bore W. 2 S. distant about 12 miles, which made them by noon observation in lat. 17° 2′ S., lon. 151° 49′ E.: the reefs were visible from the topsail-yard as far as the horizon to the S. Westward; and we ran afterward 18 miles to the Northward and Eastward before we cleared them.

Geo. Site of Vine's Dry Sand.

VINE'S DRY SAND, in lat. 17° 46′ S., lon. 151° 40′ E., seen by Lieut. Vine.

* Another account places them in 19° 40′ S.

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Geo. Site of Lihou's Shoal.

LIHOU'S SHOAL, in lat. 17° 25′ S., lon. 151° 45′ E., said to extend about 46 miles N. N. E. and S. S.W., is probably a part of the Alert's Reef and that seen by Lieut. Vine.

Geo. Site of Governor Farquhar's Shoal.

GOVERNOR FARQUHAR'S GROUP, is an extensive range of Shoals and Islets, seen in 1821 by M. Tregrose of the French brig Les Trois Freres, with the brig Jessie in company. Two sandy islets terminated the eastern part of the reefs, the easternmost of which is in lon. 151° 47′ E. of Greenwich; finding the vessels could not pass to windward, they bore away, and ran along the shoal at 1½ league distance, from 8 A. M. to 4 P. M., counting altogether seven islets, three of which were covered with shrubs, and the whole connected by a reef, the sea breaking high on its edge. The westernmost islet is in lat. 17° 39′ S., lon. 151° 27′ E., and appeared to terminate the group.

Geo. Site of Tregrosse's Islets.

TREGROSSE'S ISLETS, the westernmost, is in lat. 17° 42′ S., lon. 150′ 43′ E., and the westernmost reef in lat. 17° 44′ S., lon. 150° 32′ E.; betwixt this and another extensive reef, and the westernmost islet, M. Tregrosse steered through a passage 5 or 6 miles wide, which appeared safe. Another isle was seen to the northward, which seemed to be connected to the western one by shoal water.

Geo. Site of Diana's Bank and other dangers.

DIANA'S BANK, in lat. 15° 41′ S., about lon. 150° 30′ E., was discovered by Monsieur Bouganville, in 1768, and BOUGAINVILLE'S REEFS, are placed by Captain Flinders in lat. 15° 12′ S. to 15° 35′ S., lon. 148° 0′ E.

Exclusive of the foregoing dangers, there probably are others, yet undiscovered, in the space between New South Wales and New Caledonia, which renders great caution necessary sailing here, particularly in the night.

Current.

Winds.

It is also proper to remark, that although the current sets mostly to the southward along that part of the coast of New South Wales, situated beyond the tropic; yet to the northward of Sandy Cape, outside of the Barrier Reefs, it sets with the trade wind to the N Westward, generally from ½ to 1 mile per hour, as far as the entrance of Torres Strait. Inside of the Barrier Reefs, there is little current, but usually a kind of tides prevail between them and the coast; although in Torres Strait, there is apparently a N.W. or westerly current during the period of strong S. E. winds.

When the westerly monsoon prevails in the Timor sea, and between New Holland and New Guinea, particularly in November, December, January, and February, no ship ought to attempt the passage through Torres Strait, either to the West, or Eastward; as in these months, dark, rainy, and squally weather, would greatly augment the danger of this intricate navigation, which has never been attempted from the westward at any time, nor from the eastward at an unfavorable season.

To sail from Van Diemen's Land or Port Jackson by Torres Strait.

WHEN the S. E. MONSOON prevails in the Benda sea, from March to September, ships drawing little water, would find the route through Torres Strait more speedy than any other in proceeding from Van Diemen's Land or Port Jackson, toward Java. Hindoostan, or other parts Situated to the westward. But this route, through Torres Strait, ought not to be pursued in a large ship, or in one that draws much water, without great caution, for it is rendered intricate and dangerous, by the labyrinth of shoals and isles that form it; the whole of the space betwixt the South part of New Guinea and the N. E. part of New Holland, generally called Torres Strait, being strewed over with isles and shoals innumerable. H. M. S. Pandora, in 1791, fell in with the shoals to the eastward of this strait, in lat. 9° 53′ S., lon. 144° 14′ E., close to the East of Murray's Island; a steep coral reef was found to front the sea, affording no passage through it, she therefore worked to the southward along the edge of the reef as far as lat. 11° 25′ S., without being able to discover any safe opening through it to the westward, and here she unfortunately struck on a detached part of the reet,

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August 28th, and soon went down in deep water. Great part of the crew were saved in the boats, which passed to the westward through a narrow gap in the reef, near the wreck of the frigate, and from hence, they proceeded through Torres Strait, to the island Timor.

Geo. Site of Darnley's Island.

The Shaw Hormazier, bound from Port Jackson to Bombay, in 1793, entered Torres Strait by the New Guinea side, anchored in 11 fathoms good ground, in a bay at the North part of Wamvax or Darnley's Island, within ¼ mile of the shore; which anchorage is in lat. 9° 28′ S., lon. 143° 40′ E., where one of her boats was cut off by the natives, and some of the crew massacred. This ship was three weeks getting through Torres Strait, keeping nearest the New Guinea side; she was several times in danger, grounded on some of the shoals, and found much difficulty in pursuing her passage through this intricate navigation, which should never be attempted on the New Guinea side of the strait.

Several ships, however, of late years, have got speedily to the westward through this strait, without accident; and to such navigators as may choose to proceed by it, the following directions, chiefly by the late Captain Flinders, may be useful.

Directions from Port Jackson towards Torres Strait.

TO SAIL THROUGH TORRES STRAIT, June and July is the best time, and it ought not to be earlier than March, nor later than the middle of September: no ship should attempt this route without a chronometer; and from timidity in the commander, perhaps more danger may be apprehended than from temerity.

If at leaving Port Jackson, you do not intend to keep along the coast to Sandy Cape, and to pass to the West of CATO'S BANK and WRECK REEF, steer N. E. by E. by compass at leaving that port till in about lon. 155½° E., and the coast will be 50 leagues distant; steer then North by compass till in lat. 24° S., and in case of an error in the chronometer, do not pass lat. 23° 20′ S. in the night, on account of Cato's Bank. It is best not to heave to, but to make short tacks till day-light, making allowance for a probable current of 1 mile per hour to the N.W. A good look out is indispensable, and an officer should now go to the mast-head every 2 or 3 hours in the day, and to the fore-yard at night, to listen as well as to look; for in dark nights, breakers may often be heard before they can be seen.

From lat. 23° to lat. 15° S. great caution is necessary, whether a ship pass to the eastward or westward of Wreck Reef, on account of the numerous shoals mentioned above, particularly between the parallels of 23° and 20° S., these dangers are interspersed in an East and West direction to a great extent.

Geo. Site of Bird Islet.

In the day, you may pass about 9 or 10 leagues to the East of Cato's Bank and Wreck Reef; but with favorable weather, it may be desirable to get a sight of Bird Islet, situated at the eastern extremity of the latter in lat. 22° 11½′ S., lon. 155° 27′ E., in order to ascertain the accuracy of your chronometer, as its longitude is well determined.

Having passed Wreck Reef, there are no other known dangers near the route till you approach the lat. of DIANA'S BANK; but as undiscovered dangers may exist, it will be prudent to lie to, or rather to make short tacks in the night, during the rest of the passage to the strait. In very clear nights, however, and fine weather, there would not be great risk in following the Cumberland's track (as marked on Capt. Flinder's charts), carrying no more sail than the ship will bear conveniently when hauled to the wind; but if an unusual number of boobies and gannets be seen in the evening, this indicates the proximity of a bank and reef; and the direction taken by the birds, if they all go one way, as is usual in an evening, will nearly shew the bearing of danger.

Geo. Site of Eastern Fields.

From Wreck Reef, steer to pass about a degree to the East of Diana's Bank; the next object of attention is the EASTERN FIELDS, or reefs which lie a degree out from those where Torres Strait may be said to commence, and their N. E. end is in lat. 10° 2′ S., lon. 145° 45′ E., which you may pass half a degree to the eastward; and from hence, allow 18 miles daily for a W. N. W. current, which runs now to the westward through Torres Strait.

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Geo. Site of Pandora's Entrance.

The best parallel for passing the Eastern Fields, is in lat. 9° 45′ to 9° 50′ S., steering W. by S. by compass; and afterward, so long as there is day-light, and no reefs seen, carry all sail for PANDORA'S ENTRANCE, which is the best opening yet known to the strait, being 11 or 12 miles wide between the reefs which form it, and its centre is in lat, 9° 54′ S., lon. 144° 42′ E. If the Eastern Fields be passed in the morning, you may possibly get through, and obtain a sight of Murray's Islands before dark, without seeing the breakers. But it is more probable, that the reefs will first be seen; and if then, the latitude is uncertain even to 5 miles, you must haul to the wind until an observation is obtained, for by the latitude alone, can the outer reefs be distinguished one from the other.

Geo. Site of Murray's Islands.

Directions for sailing through Torres Strait.

With the reefs in sight, and the latitude known, steer for the Pandora's Entrance if you can fetch it; but if too much to the northward, pass round the North end of Portlock's Reef, which is in lat. 9° 26′ S., and haul up S.W. for MURRAY'S ISLANDS, situated in lat. 9° 53′ S., lon. 144° 3′ E., and visible 8 or 10 leagues from the deck in clear weather. It is best to approach these islands from N. E. by N., as reefs project South and eastward from them, and anchor the first night on the North side of the largest island, or otherwise under the reefs which lie to the N. E. of it; but if neither can be reached before dark, haul to the wind and make short tacks till day-light, in the space between these reefs and Portlock's Reef.

Murray's Islands should not be passed, or quitted, if you have anchored there, later than 10 or 11 A. M., because the sun will get a-head and obscure the sight before another good anchorage can be secured. The reef that lies 5 miles to the North of the islands, should be kept about a mile on the starboard hand in passing, steering W. ½ S. by compass, with a boat a-head; for in this part there are many tide ripplings, scarcely to be distinguished from the reefs. Having passed the ripplings, haul a point more to southward, and after having run 8 or,10 miles from the time that the largest of Murray's Islands bore South, there will be very few reefs to the northward, and DARNLEY'S ISLAND will be seen. On the larboard hand, there will be a great mass of reefs, and these should be followed at the distance of 2 or 3 miles, steering mostly W. S. W., and gradually more southward as they are found to trend. Some small patches will be met with occasionally, but having the boat a-head, and the commander, or a careful officer looking out aloft, they may easily be avoided.

The leading mark throughout this part, is the line of the Great South-Eastern Reefs; and the situation of the ship may be known at any time, by laying down bearings of Murray's and Darnley's Islands on Capt. Flinder's chart of Torres Strait; allowing 5° of East variation, if the ship's head be westward, and the compass on the binnacle.

Geo Site of Half-way Island.

Several low woody isles will appear in sight a-head, or on the starboard bow, and before reaching the end of the S. Eastern reefs, HALF-WAY ISLAND, the southernmost of them, will be seen to the S.W., which lies in lat. 10° 7′ S., lon. 143° 19′ E.; and here, you should anchor for the night. If, however, this island can be passed before 3 P. M., and the sun do not obscure the sight, you may push on S. Westward till an hour before sun-set, and anchor under the lee of any of those sand banks which lie near the route, the ground being better here, than in the eastern part of the strait.

Geo. Site of Mount Adolphus.

From Half-way Island, continue to follow the Investigator's track, steering S.W. to S.W. by W. by compass, as the small reefs and banks may admit, and there is no necessity in this part for a boat to be kept a-head. The flat top of Mount Adolphus, on one of the York Isles in lat. 10° 38′ S., lon. 142° 36′ E., will be the first high land seen, and afterward Mount Ernest, which lies 7 or 8 leagues to the N. Westward; the cross bearings of these, will show your situation on the chart, until DOUBLE ISLE, in lat. 10° 27′ S. appear in sight, which makes in two small hummocks. Steer then for it, which pass on the North side, and haul S. Westward for WEDNESDAY ISLAND, which will be 3 leagues distant. Pass it also on the North side about 1 mile, and the same distance from Hammond's Island, which lies next to it: there will be an extensive reef on the starboard hand, but the least distance be-

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tween it and the islands is above 2 miles; and a W. S.W. course by compass, will lead fair through the passage, in soundings from 9 to 6 fathoms.

Geo. Site of Booby Isle.

BOOBY ISLE, in lat. 10° 36½′ S., lon. 141° 53½′ E., by Capt. King's observations, will soon be seen a-head, appearing at first like a white sand bank, which may be passed in soundings of 5 to 7 fathoms, within 1 or 2 miles on either side, and it is the westernmost isle or danger of Torres Strait; under lee of this isle, you may anchor, and will probably get some turtle, if the boat be sent on shore. From hence, steer afterward by compass W. by S. 30 or 40 miles, to avoid a large reef about 7 leagues to the W. N. Westward of Booby Island, then toward the intended port, wherever you are bound, being now clear to the West of all dangers in Torres Strait.

Geo. Site of Prince of Wales' Islands.

If the approach of night, or other circumstances render it desirable to anchor before you reach Booby Island, shelter will be found to the N.W. of Wednesday Island, or Hammond's Island, which are the northernmost of the Prince of Wales' Group, and situated within about 4 miles of each other, in lat. 10° 32′ S. to 10° 35′ S., lon. 142° 10′ E. to 142° 20′ E.

The route described above, and recommended by Capt. Flinders, is that usually followed; nevertheless, several vessels have lately got safe through Torres Strait, by pursuing other routes, some of them much farther to the southward, as will shortly appear.

Claudine's Entrance into Torres Strait.

TORRES STRAIT was adopted by the ships Claudine, Capt. J, Welch, and Mary, Capt. Ormond, in September, 1818, bound from Port Jackson to Batavia, and having entered it by a new but safe opening in the Great Barrier, Capt. Welch gives the following remarks for entering the strait by the CLAUDINE'S ENTRANCE.

Directions.

Having made the northern part of the Eastern Fields (many parts of which have now shrubs on them) there will be but a short day's run from thence to Murray's Island, so that a ship should keep under the N.W. part of these reefs till 4 A. M., and a W. by S. course by compass from thence, will carry her between Portlock Reef to the North, and Boot Reef to the Southward; and, if the latter is seen in passing, it will answer as a point of departure in running from thence to the Barrier, should an observation for the latitude not be obtained.*

From Boot Reef the run is about 5 hours W. by S. to the Barrier Reef, and the latter is sometimes visible before Murray's Island, although the island is seen in sufficient time to make the entrance, and if brought to bear W. ½ S., run in for the Barrier Reef with the island on this bearing, and the CLAUDINE'S ENTRANCE may be seen and approached without fear. You will also see several other openings in the reef, but this from its clearness with the above bearing cannot be mistaken, and on its northern side there is a patch of sand 20 or 30 feet long, and about 2 feet above water. The course through this entrance is about W. N. W. and the channel about two cables' lengths wide, with very deep water: within it you will see two small patches, which must be left a considerable distance on the right hand.

Having entered this passage, haul up for the southern part of the largest of Murray's Islands, and when about ¼ mile within the entrance of the reef you will have 14 to 16 fathoms clear ground and good anchorage, where you should stop for the night if you arrive

* We made the Eastern Fields at 3 P.M. and ran W. by S. with a fresh breeze till 8 P. M., then hauled on a wind under easy sail, making short tacks till day-light. At 7 A. M. saw the Boot Reef, which we mistook for the southernmost patch of Portlock Reef, thinking we had been set to the northward by a current during the night; and we therefore stood to the southward, and at noon found ourselves 37 miles South of the entrance, and discovered a reef of breakers stretching N. N. E. and S. S. W. about 24 miles, the southern extremity of which we made in lat.10° 32′ S.: here it formed a bight to the N. Eastward, and rounded again to the Westward; the water appearing very shoal within. This danger we named Ormond's Reef. To prevent a similar mistake, a ship should keep close under the Eastern Fields till 4 A. M., as directed above.

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here in the afternoon, and not at Murray's Island, as the bay is covered with patches of coral and foul ground, which occasioned the loss of an anchor both to the Claudine and Mary.

Having anchored within the reef as mentioned above, weigh at day-light, and pass to the northward of Murray's Island about a cable's length from its contiguous reefs; steer N.W. from 4 to 6 miles till you see a reef on the starboard side, which bring to bear about E. N. E., then the long range of reefs will be seen to the southward, and probably two or three small patches situated between the Northern Reef and the Southern Range, which should be passed on the North side. You will be then a short ¾ mile North of Captain Flinder's Track, in the Investigator, and the course will be to the West and W. S.W.; soon afterward Daruley's Island will be seen on your starboard quarter, and after passing a bank on the larboard side you will shortly see a small woody island, being the easternmost of the cluster of woody isles marked in Capt. Flinders' Chart; soon after a sand bank and reef will be visible on the larboard bow: close by this latter you must pass, and Half Way Island will be seen bearing about S.W. by S., or S.W. ½ S. by compass. Having gained this island, the most dangerous part of the passage is over, and the foregoing directions, by Capt. Flinders, may then be followed. In the track between the northernmost of the Prince of Wales' Island and Booby Island, the Mary had 3 fathoms on a shoal, which was named LARPENT'S BANK, and the Claudine had 6 fathoms on its edge; from the western extreme of Prince of Wales' Island it bears N. W., and E. by N. ¾ N. from Booby Island.

The Alert struck on a shoal in lat. 9° 52′ S., lon. 140° 50′ E., which appeared to be about 200 fathoms in length, and about 50 yards broad.

Remarks for entering Torres Strait, by Cept. Warington.

TORRES STRAIT, was adopted by Captain Warington, in the ship Mary Ann, bound to Batavia, who left Port Jackson, June 24th, 1822, with the Almorah, and Richmond in company; and some of his judicious remarks, may be acceptable to strangers, when pursuing that route.

Geo. Site of the anchorage at Murray's Island.

July 2d. They made Bird Islet on Wreck Reef, to prove the chronometers, and July 9th, at noon, saw the Eastern Fields, having experienced a mean daily current of 18 miles to the N. Westward between these places. From Port Jackson to the Eastern Fields, kept under plain sails in the night, and the sea being smooth, kept the back stays abaft the tops, with lower lifts slack, ready for bracing the yards round in an instant, if necessary. At 2¼ P. M. July 9th, when the N. E. end of the Eastern Fields bore S. ¾ W. 3 or 4 miles, steered North 7 or 8 miles under easy sail, then under top-sails during the night, sometimes braced to the wind, steered W. by S. and occasionally W. S. W. at a slow rate, usually about 3 knots, with the lead going. Observed the meridian altitudes of six stars and the moon during the night, which gave the lat. 9° 56′ and 9° 57′ S., and took altitudes of stars for the time by chronometers, which gave lon. 145° 15′ E. It vas considered of primary importance to preserve the parallel of latitude, as some ships between the Eastern Fields and Boot Reef, having been set to the northward, perceived at day-light, that they were among unbrwum reefs, and obliged to wait for the noon observation to ascertain their true situation; after which time, the sun being to the westward, obscures the view, rendering it dangerous to cross the Barrier Reefs, by which ships may be liable to detention another night among innumerable dangers. At 8 A. M. saw the Boot Reef from the mast-head bearing W. by S. ½ S., and at 9, passed to the northward of it at ½ a mile distant, bearing S. ½ E. At 11½ saw Murray's Island bearing West, and soon after saw the breakers on the Barrier Reef; but a quick succession of squalls at this time, prevented any thing being seen above a ¼ mile, and the weather being so unfavorable, made it necessary to heave to, occasionally, although at noon we were not far from the Barrier. Observed the lat. 9° 53 S., lon. 144° 24′ E. at noon, July 10th, and in an interval between the squalls at 2½ P. M. passed through the Barrier in an opening a small ¼ of a mile wide, with Murray's Island bearing W. S., the course being from W. by N. to W. N.W. while sailing through the passage. At 4 P. M. anchored under Murray's Island

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in 24 fathoms foul ground, it bearing S. S. E., distant about 1¼ mile, the westernmost island S. S.W. ½ W., and breakers on a reef W. ½ N. about 1 mile distant. Observed lat. 9° 53′ S., lon. 144° 1¾′ E. by chronometers. The weather being very unfavorable, we did not leave the anchorage at Murray's Island till the 12th, and then pursued the track through Torres Strait to the westward, recommended by Captain Welch of the Claudine.

TORRES STRAIT was also adopted by Capt. B. Osman, who left Port Jackson lately, in an American ship, bound to Bengal, for which he gives the following remarks.

Captain Osman's route through Torres.

We left Port Jackson in May, and when in lat. 9° 46′ S. steered West for Torres Strait, and fell in with the Eastern Fields in about lon. 145° 45′ E. which were small detached reefs. Afterwards, entered the Barrier Reef in about lon. 145° E., and 12 or 13 leagues to the eastward of Murray's Island, which we passed on the North side, then steered W. by S. ½ S. with the view of getting more to the southward, and to avoid the Coast of New Guinea; but unfortunately, having no observation for two days, although steering as above, we found ourselves on the third day in lat. 9° 21′ S., and the high land of New Guinea in sight from the deck. Here we made little progress; the strait in this part being covered over with shoal patches, coral rocks, and reefs innumerable, made us endeavour to get to the southward, but were obliged to remain at anchor most of the following six or seven days, on account of thick squally blowing weather. When the weather became moderate, we weighed and worked to the southward till in lat. 10° 5′ S., and found no difficulty in this parallel, steering for the Prince of Wales' Islands.

Tides.

We had been led to believe, that the tides in Torres Strait were very weak, and set nearly East and West; but in the middle of the strait we experienced their velocity on the springs to be from 3 to 4 miles an hour, the flood which then rises about 6 feet, setting W. N.W. ½ N., the ebb about E. S. E., and their velocity is probably not less than 2 miles per hour in neap tides. This renders particular attention to the tides necessary when observations are not obtained, to prevent being set over on the Coast of New Guinea, as we were; which, together with bad weather, lengthened our passage through the strait to 13 days.

Supposed best track through the strait.

The best route through, appears to be, to make Murray's Island if possible, and after passing on the North side of it at 3 or 4 leagues distance, four islands will be seen, with apparently good passages between them, two of which islands may be left to the northward. After passing these, get into lat. 10° 10′ or 10° 15′ S. as soon as possible, endeavouring to avoid getting much to the northward of the above latitude, and steer a direct course for Prince of Wales' Islands. If a ship be set over to the northward by the tides or a current, and find difficulty with a scant wind in getting to the southward, she ought in such case to anchor upon the flood, and work to windward with the ebb tide, by which means she will get speedily to the southward into the proper track.

Indef atigable's Route.

INDEF.ATIGABLE'S ROUTE,* by entering the Barrier, Reefs far to the southward, is perhaps not more dangerous than the tracks described above, as the Indefatigable, drawing 18 feet water, got safely through it in little more than two days, with the Cochin, a small ship, and a brig, which entered the Barrier Reefs with her.

These three vessels left Port Jackson, July 13th, 1815, and knowing (by the Pandora's track) that the Barrier Reefs afforded no eligible entrance between lat. 9° 56 S., at the Pandora's entrance and 11° 25′ S, where she was wrecked, they resolved to endeavour to find an entrance through the Barrier farther South, nearly opposite to Hardy's Islands. August 3d, A. M., steering westward the Barrier Reefs were discovered, and an opening seen, which proved to be 4 or 5 miles wide; this was entered at noon, and by observation found to be in

* Communicated by Joseph Arnold, F. L. S., who was a passenger in the Indefatigable, and delineated a chart of her passage through among the reefs, accompanied by an explicit description.

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Geo. Site of her passage through the Barrier Reefs,

lat. 11° 50′ S., about lon.144° 10′ E. by indifferent chronometer. The reef was dry on the North side of the entrance several miles, that on the South side was 10 or 12 feet above water, consisting apparently of sand and large masses of rock, with others under water. Steered about 6 leagues to the westward after entering the Barrier till 5 P. M., August 4th, sounded and got no bottom, and being in an open space surrounded by reefs, excepting a clear opening to the N. N.W. directly to leeward, made short tacks all night, keeping a boat to leeward. At day-light, were within two cable's lengths of a reef, having no soundings with the hand-lead close among the breakers.

and her route though Torres Strait described.

At day-light, the ship in company was seen about 10 miles to the N. E., with two or three reefs between us, and an opening appearing to N. W., we steered for it, in hope that she would find a passage among the reefs and join us, which she did. After steering in different directions, making a course about N. N. W., at 9 A. M. passed to the westward between two reefs high above water, about 2 miles apart; steered N.W. and westward to round the South end of a sand bank, and at noon observed lat. 11° 25′ S., the sand bank then being the only danger in sight from the deck, and bearing to the S. E.

August 5th. At 1 P. M. steered to the westward, to round the South side of extensive reefs seen to the N.W., and perceiving by the colour of the water, that we were in shoal soundings, immediately got 4 and 3¾ fathoms, shells and sand. At 2 P. M. steering N.W. and W. N. W. between extensive reefs to the North and East, and a long dry reef to the southward, no ground at 15 fathoms, wind S. S. E., sailing at the rate of 7 knots. At 4 P. M. steering N.W. between extensive reefs above water, saw two hills to the westward, supposed to be on the main, having to the northward a point of land covered with trees, distant about 10 miles, which is probably an island. At 5 P. M. rounded the North point of the reef to the westward, and at 5½ P. M. anchored within a mile of its N.W. end in 15 fathoms stiff clay, which reef is extensive, with a bason of smooth water in its centre, and a hillock of sand on its North end, crowned with a few bushes. An island covered with trees bore from our anchorage about W. S, W., with reefs stretching to South and northward, and on the N.W. reef appeared a single tree; the main land was seen obscurely bearing from South to W. N.W., and there were openings between the reefs at S. by E. and North.

At 8 A. M. weighed with a strong breeze at S. E., steered northward, and at 10 passed on the West side of a small island covered with trees, having a reef projecting to the northward: the main land to the westward moderately elevated. At 11¼ A. M. entered between two extensive reefs, in a passage little more than a mile wide, steering through to the N. N.W, had soundings of only 4 and 5 fathoms, and soon saw Mount Adolphus a-head, which we thought at first to be Turtle Island, and a small woody island bore W. by N., distant about 3 miles.

Grounded near York Islands.

At noon, observed lat. 10° 36′ S., being then through the passage, and abreast of Mount Adolphus, too far advanced to the northward, to proceed between Cape York and the York Islands, (which is probably the best passage) steered to round the latter. At 1½ P. M. August 6th, in passing on the North side of the northernmost York Island above 1 mile distant, struck, and grounded on a shoal in 13 feet water, where the ship lay till the, tide rose and floated her off at 8 P. M. into deep water, then anchored with the eastern extremity of the northernmost York Island bearing E. ½ N., distant 3 miles, a sandy beach on ditto E. by S., westernmost extremity of ditto S. S. E., Mount Adolphus on the largest island S. E. ½ E., Cape York S. by E., Possession Island S.W. by S., a rock about 4 miles distant W. ½ S., Horned Hill W. ½ N., Double Island N.W., and Mount Ernest N. N.W., the tide setting strong to the eastward.

We remained at anchor till the 7th, then weighed at day-light, and steered S.W. ½ S. for Endeavour's Strait with a boat a-head, the soundings from 5 to 10 fathoms. The ship and brig, had left us on the 6th, but after passing through Endeavour's Strait, we again fell in with them, in want of surgical aid, as the Captains of both vessels, and some of their people

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bad been speared by the natives on the preceding evening, in attempting to land on Possession Island. They seemed to be very numerous, and had lighted large fires on the largest island of Prince of Wales' Group, and on many parts of New Holland.

Grounded between Endeavour's Strait, and Booby Island.

When through the strait, steered toward Booby Island, but grounded twice for a short time, in passing over the spot where 3 fathoms is marked in Capt. Flinder's chart; the brig kept more to the southward, and had not less than 6 fathoms water. At night we anchored under Booby Island, and procured some turtle.

Directions for pursuing the Indefatigable's Route through Torres Strait.

This SOUTHERN ROUTE of the Indefatigable, for a ship at an easy draught of water, seems safe, and is shorter than the northern route, but much caution is required in a ship drawing 18 feet water, or upward. To proceed by it, the passage through the Barrier Reefs opposite to Hardy's Islands, ought if possible to be entered early in the morning, by which a ship will probably get well to the westward into soundings and anchorage before night, and avoid the danger of keeping under sail among the reefs. A boat should be kept a-head, with proper signals to shew the depth of water throughout the passage, and a careful officer, with other trusty persons, ought to look out sharply from the mast-head, and an anchoring place sought before night.

The Indefatigable's anchoring place, is a good station to stop on the second night, and may be known by the two hills on the main, two small islands covered with wood, and the reef with a single tree on it. Leaving this anchorage at day-light, the small bushy island and reef must be left to the right, and soon after Mount Adolphus will be seen. It is preferable to pass between it and Cape York, in the track of Capt. Cook: the course from York Islands to Endeavour's Strait is safe, with depths from 5 to 10 fathoms. If you pass through the narrow part of the strait when the tide runs strong to the eastward, borrow toward the island that forms the southern side, as the tide sets then strong toward the northernmost island. With the wind fair, you may reach Booby Island in the evening, passing to the southward of the two spits marked with 3 fathoms in Capt. Flinder's chart, on which the Indefatigable struck.

From the time the Indefatigable entered the passage of the Barrier Reefs in lat. 11° 50′ S. opposite to Hardy's Islands, until she finally cleared them in lat. 10° 37′ S., she was only about 24 hours under sail, excluding the first night, when she endeavoured to keep her station by making short tacks within the Barrier Reefs; and although she ran about 140 miles, on account of the various directions of the reefs, the distance in a straight line is probably not more than 110 miles. The wind kept brisk about S. E. during the whole of the passage through among the reefs, with smooth water, and there appeared to be a weak N. Westerly current.

Inner Routh to Endeavour's Strait, pursued by the Cyclope

CYCLOPS INNER ROUTE, toward ENDEAVOUR'S STRAIT, was pursued by Capt. Cripps, in the brig Cyclops, bound from Port Jackson to Bengal, in 1812. His vessel being crank, made him fearful of passing outside of the Barrier Reefs, least he should miss the proper entrance, and be unable to beat off from them: he therefore made the land at Buzzard's Bay, then followed Capt. Cook's track within the reefs, and passed through Endeavour's Strait. Throughout this track, the sea was always smooth, with moderate depths for anchoring at night, which every ship ought to do; and if a good look out be kept in the day, Capt. Cripps thinks, this passage may be followed in a small ship, or in one of moderate size, if not drawing much water.

and by the Kangaroo.

INNER ROUTE, above mentioned, was also followed by Lieut. Jeffries, in H. M. brig, the Kangaroo, which sailed from Port Jackson, April 19th, 1815, bound to Ceylon, with a detachment of troops. Having thick weather as Wreck Reef was approached, rendering it unpleasant to run for the narrow channels of the Barrier Reefs, the passage inside of the Great Barrier Reefs, was therefore pursued. April 28th, she rounded Breaksea-Spit, at

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Sandy Point, Harvey's Bay, and filled tip her water at Port Bowen, where she was detained several days by a gale of wind. From hence, the track of Capt. Cook was followed as nearly as possible, inside of Northumberland and Cumberland Islands, through Whitsunday Passage; and such parts as Capt. Cook had passed in the night, were at this time passed in the day: at Cape Sandwich, some fruit was obtained from the natives, who appeared friendly. Having on the 29th passed Cape Flattery and Endeavour River, (where Capt. Cook steered out from the coast) the Kangaroo continued by day, to sail along that unexplored part of the coast, anchoring at night under some convenient reef or shoal, which were numberless, but a clear passage was found from 3 to 5 miles off shore; and from 7 to 9 miles off, the continuation of the reef and sand banks appeared, which was first discovered at Cape Grafton. In passing along the coast between Cape Flattery and Cape Weymouth, a large group of islands was discovered, named Flinder's Group, by Lieut. Jeffries; also an extensive bay or gulf at least 30 miles in depth, which was called Princess Charlotte Bay, the neighbouring coast, presenting a fertile aspect, interspersed with trees. June 1st, in lat. 13° 32′ S., lon. 143° 47′, E. by lunar observation, passed within 10 yards of a mushroom coral rock about 4 feet under water, but the rays of the sun prevented the red colour of the water over it from being seen till closely approached. About 2 miles to the westward of Bolt Head, the Kangaroo grounded on another coral shoal, which was not discerned, the soundings on this part of the coast varying from 5 to 20 fathoms. On the 6th rounded Cape York, and found it to be an island, and not part of the main land as hitherto supposed; anchored here during the night, and passed through Endeavour's Strait on the 7th, carrying from 3 to 3½ fathoms water about ½ flood, till within a few miles of Booby Island, where she anchored in the night, and arrived at Timor on the 19th. Here she remained till June 26th, and arrived July 24th, in Colombo Road, Ceylon. Several small ships have lately pursued the Inner Route, by entering the Barrier Reefs far South, and keeping along the coast, or in its proximity, where the water is always smooth, with moderate depths for anchoring in the night. And this route is now thought to be safe, with proper caution, although it must be attended with greater delay, (on account of anchoring always in the night), than the other routes when the Barrier Reefs are entered farther to the northward; for in the latter case, the passage through amongst the reefs and dangers is much shortened.

Lalla Rookh's Route.

LALLA ROOKH'S INNER ROUTE, was followed by Capt. Hugh Steward, of the ship Lalla Rookh, after leaving Port Jackson, and having touched at Port Macquarie, in 1825, with convicts; of which mute, he gives the following description.

Having a northerly wind at leaving Port Macquarie, which afterward veered to S.W., we passed to the S. Eastward of Frederick Reef, Wreck Reef, and Diana's Bank, about 50 miles; when about 40 miles N. E. of the latter, steered for the entrance of the Barrier Reefs, and when in lat. 11° 55′ S., being within 5 leagues of the reefs by computation, steered W. ½ S., and soon saw breakers a-head at 9½ A. M., the wind blowing strong at E. S. E. with hard squalls, and a high sea running. At 10, entered the outer edge of the Barrier Reefs in a passage about 6 miles wide, being then in lat. 11° 55′ S., lon. 144° 2′ E.; steered N.W. about 4 leagues, with reefs on both sides, and several small openings on the left hand. Perceiving breakers a-head, steered S.W. through an opening in the reefs, continued on this course 6 miles, then steered W. by N. 3 leagues in a clear channel, and saw Hardy's Islands bearing about W. ½ N., and a sand bank on the larboard bow, which we passed to the northward; saw another, a little farther to the W. N.W., and a third sand bank in a line with it, but nearer to the islands, all of which we passed to the northward. Excepting these three sand banks, the space in sight appeared clear of danger. Steered for the North end of the northernmost island, passed it within 1½ mile, and steered about W. by S. ½ S. towards the main land, and had a reef on the starboard side extending as far as the eye could reach. When within 5 or 6 miles of the islands fronting Cape Granville, steered N. Westward for

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Directions.

the Bird Islands, and had several sand banks and shoals on the starboard side; at 4½ P. M. passed to the eastward of this group of isles, and anchored under their lee, in 10 fathoms soft clay, about ½ mile off. Sent a boat on shore, found many young turtles on the beach. Weighed at day-light, and steered about N. ½ W. for another group of islands, which we named Lalla Rookh's Group, where many natives appeared. In approaching this group, a very dangerous reef extends to the westward, with several sandy islands and banks to the eastward; but by keeping a good look out, every danger will be seen. We passed to the eastward of this group, saw a passage to the westward between it and a small sandy island, from which an extensive reef projects to the eastward, which we passed on the East side, and having cleared this reef, steered N. W. between it and two other sandy isles, which were left on the starboard side, then steered W. N. W. to pass between two small islands; the westernmost of these we named Aspinall Island, which has an extensive reef to the S. E.; the other we called Innes Island, and left it on the starboard side, then steered along shore for Turtle Island, and had 4½ fathoms on a shoal about 3 miles to the S. E. of it, but deepened to 10 fathoms in hauling to the eastward: passed the island at 1½ mile distance, but 2 miles would be safer. From Aspinall Island the coast appeared to be clear of shoals, excepting two or three small islands with reefs adjoining, distant 2 or 3 miles off shore, there being a clear large space of sea after passing Turtle Island, although reefs were visible at a great distance on the starboard side. Soon saw Mount Adolphus, and steered for it, kept about 4 miles to the eastward of the islands that lie East of Cape York, and steered N. N. W. in passing them, until in mid-channel between them and Mount Adolphus, then W. N.W. and N.W. by W. for a rock situated to the North of Cape York, which was passed to the southward 1½ mile distant. Steered then for the N. E. point of Wednesday Island, and passed it about 2 miles distant, having kept the lead going, and had no ground at 8 fathoms. From hence, steered W. by S. ½ S. for a rock above water to the northward of Hammond's Island, which passed about 1 mile distance; saw a dangerous reef extending to the N.W. and westward, as far as the eye could reach from the mast-head. After rounding the rock, steered W. S.W. until the Shoal Cape bore S. S. E. Z ½ E., then steered for Booby Island, which was seen from the deck when abreast of Shoal Cape, and we passed that island at 7 P. M.; having been only 33 hours since entering the Barrier Reefs, and were 14 hours of that time at anchor under Bird Islands. To enter the Barrier Reefs, by the passage described above, there appears to be little difficulty, or danger, as the reefs and shoals may always be discerned; but the morning is the best time to enter, as a ship will, in such case, reach a safe anchorage before the evening: by entering about noon, she may reach Hardy's Islands before night; but the Barrier Reefs ought never to be entered after noon.

In lat. 12° 5′ S. lon. 143° 48′ E., there is an opening in the Barrier Reefs, through which the Nimrod passed in 1822.

Openings in the Barrier Reefs.

In lat. 12° 45′ S., lon. 143° 47′ E., there is another small opening in the Barrier Reefs, through which the Hibernin entered in 1810.

Directions for the Inner Passage by Capt. King.

In Capt. P. P. King's Voyages, of his surveys of the Coasts of Australia, Vol. II. Appendix, page 393, excellent directions are given for the INNER PASSAGE from Port Jackson, which ought to be possessed by navigators proceeding to those parts, accompanied by the Admiralty Charts published from the surveys of that scientific officer, and those of the late Capt. Flinders; and may be had from the Chartsellers appointed by the Admiralty.

To sail from Port Jackson toward Hindoostan by the Pitt's Passage.

THE BEST ROUTE from. PORT JACKSON toward HINDOOSTAN, when neither the southern passage, nor that by Torres Strait are adopted, seems to be round New Guinea, then through the Pitt's Passage and Java Sea, or out through the Ombay Passage into the sea, which route, like the other, ought only to be followed when the S. E. monsoon prevails to the South of the equator.

A ship intending to proceed by the route round New Guinea, may from Van Diemen's

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Land or Port Jackson, steer to the E. N. E. and N. E. until in about lon. 160° E., then to the northward, keeping nearly on that meridian with the S. E. trade. A good look out is necessary, in the vicinity of islands or dangers situated near the track, and as undiscovered dangers probably exist, a good look out ought never to be omitted.*

When lat. 23° S. is approached, be more particularly on your guard, for several dangerous reefs lie between lat. 23½° and 18° S., some of which have been lately discovered, and probably other unknown dangers exist in their neighbourhood, in that part of the ocean formed betwixt New Caledonia and the opposite coast of New Holland.

Laughlan's Islands.

LAUGHLAN'S ISLANDS, were discovered by Captain David Laughtan in the ship Mary, from Port Jackson bound to Bengal, with the ship Clarkson in company. The following description, extracted from Capt. Laughlan's journal, shews them to be situated nearly in the direct route of ships steering for St. George's Channel, formed between New Britain and New Ireland.

Geo. Site.

August 16th, 1812, at 2 P. M. saw from the deck a group of islands a-head, distant about 7 miles, hauled to the wind N. by E. in order to clear the reefs, which appeared to surround six or seven islands extending E. S. E. and W. N.W. 3½ or 4 leagues, and bearing by compass from N. N.W. ¼ W. to N.W. by W. At 3¾ P. M. extremes of the land bore from West to S.W. ¼ W., distant 7 or 8 miles, appearing like two islands: saw several cocoa-nut trees on the western extremity, and a reef with high breakers appeared to encompass the islands. The south-east extremity of these islands is in lat. 9° 20′ S., lon. 153° 45′ E. by chronometer from Port Jackson, or in lon. 153° 40′ E. measured back from Cape St. George.

Bougain ville's Island.

Geo. Site of Shoals.

Having got into lat. 13° or 14° S., a N. Westerly course should be steered for the entrance of St. George's Channel, formed betwixt New Ireland and New Britain, taking care to give a birth to Laughlan's Islands, also to the western coast of Bougainville's Island, and the shoals that front it to a considerable distance. The westernmost of these coral shoals are in lat. 6° 11′ S., lon. 154° 22′ E., but others lie to the South, and also to the northward, contiguous to Winchelsea's, or Bouka Island.

Geo. Site of Cape St. George.

CAPE ST. GEORGE, in lat. 4° 54′ S., lon. 152° 59′ E., is the southern promontory of New Ireland, and as the current often sets to North and westward when near the southern coast of New Britain, it is prudent for ships bound through St. George's Channel, to keep well to the eastward in steering for the Cape, and to round it pretty close. If a supply of wood and water is wanted, it may be got at Gower's Harbour, Carteret's Harbour, or at Port Hunter.

Gower's Harbour.

GOWER'S HARBOUR, situated a little way within Cape St. George, is formed between shore of New Ireland and Wallis Island, called Marteux by the French, having a small green island fronting the southern entrance. The depths are from 46 to 30 fathoms in this harbour or gut, which is about ½ a mile wide. There is also anchorage on the North side of the West point of Wallis Island, in 28 or 30 fathoms in Turtle Bay: but the two coves opposite to the North point of this island, are the most convenient places to moor, and procure water. The easternmost, called English Cove, has a brook of fresh water that falls into it, and they lie close to each other.

* The route here described, to the eastward of Catos Reef, Wreck Reef, or other dangers, is frequently pursued; but Captain Bristow, is of opinion, that the best track from Port Jackson, is to keep within a moderate distance of the coast as far as Sandy Cape, and pass to the westward of the above shoals, giving a birth to Frederick Reef, and the adjacent dangers; and from Sandy Cape, to steer for Cape St. George, or for Cape Deliverance if bound through Dampier's Strait. He was only 13 days from Port Jackson to the coast of New Hanover, by the latter route.

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Carteret's Harbour.

CARTERET'S HARBOUR, situated about 2 leagues to the N. Westward of Wallis Island, is not easily discerned, unless a ship keep near the shore; it being formed in a concavity of the coast, and Cocoa-nut Island at the entrance being low, is obscured by the adjoining high land of New Ireland.

Leigh's Island, is small, and lies near the South end of Cocoa-nut Island; betwixt the former and Booby Rock, fronting the southern mouth of the harbour, is the passage in, by the South channel. The North channel, is formed between the western point of the harbour and the N. W. end of Cocoa-nut Island, and both channels are narrow, although there is plenty of room inside: a ship may anchor in 25 or 30 fathoms soft mud, close under the North side of Cocoa-nut Island, and be well sheltered. Wood is got on this island, and very good water conveniently, on the coast of New Ireland, to the northward of the anchorage; but this harbour affords no other refreshments.

The anchorage is in lat. 4° 48′ S., lon. 152° 46′ E., variation 7° E. in 1780. The tide flows once in 24 hours, and rises about 6 feet.

Port Hunter.

PORT HUNTER, in lat. 4° 71′ S., is a small bay formed at the N.W. part of Duke of York's Island, where a ship may anchor in 20 or 25 fathoms soft ground, within 1½ cable's length of the shore; but farther in, the bottom is not good. Fresh water is got on the East side of the bay, where it issues out of the front of a high bank, very close to the sea; and it should be filled from ½ ebb to ½ flood, for the tide rises about 6 feet, and flows up to the place from whence the water issues.

A ship touching here for water, ought to cover the watering party by boats well armed, or she may moor near the shore for that purpose, because the island is well inhabited, and the natives are of warlike appearance.* Cocoa-nuts, sugar-cane, plantains, yams, and other fruits, were seen on this island, also hogs and fowls. It is about 3 leagues in extent, moderately elevated, and the fair channel is to the eastward, betwixt it and the coast of New Ireland.

On the coast of New Britain, to the westward of Duke of York's Island, is situated the remarkable hills called Mother and Daughters, with a small flat volcano hill near them.

Having cleared St. George's Channel, steer a westerly course toward the North coast of New Guinea, leaving to the northward the Admiralty Islands, and the chain of small isles extending from thence to the westward.

Geo. Site of the Admiralty Islands.

ADMIRALTY ISLANDS, form a large group, extending from about lat. 1° 50′ S. to 3° 10′ S., lon. 146° 0′ E. to about 148° 6′ E. The Friendship, bound from Port Jackson to Bengal, in 1800, with another ship in company, passed between the large southern island and others to the northward, and had 20 fathoms water in the passage. The Great Island is high, situated in the middle of the group, and most of the small isles which encircle it, are fronted by shoals.

There is anchorage opposite to a village, on the West side of the southern island; and about 12 leagues to the westward of this island, and South from the mountain on the Great Admiralty Island, a dangerous reef is situated in lat. 2° 42′ S.

Sydney Shoal.

SYDNEY SHOAL, was discovered by Captain Austin Forrest, bound from Port Jackson toward Bengal, in the ship Sydney. At 1 A. M., May 20th, 1806, she struck upon it, and soon bilged, it being then covered at high water, but some points of the rocks appeared above the surface at low water, and there were no soundings close to the shoal. The boats

* The vessel in which Capt. Hunter proceeded from Port Jackson to Batavia, touched here for water, having missed Carteret's Harbour. The natives were hostile, and made an attack on the watering party, who fired on them; they were kept at a distance afterward, by firing a few shots into the wood at times.

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Geo. Site.

steered from it N. by E. ½ E. 58 miles, and the Admiralty Islands were then seen bearing N. N. E. distant 3 or 4 leagues, by which, and other observations, this dangerous shoal was found to be situated in lat. 3° 20′ S., lon. 146° 50′ E.

If a ship be carried to the westward of the South entrance of St. George's Channel by the current, she might pass round to the southward of New Britain, and proceed through the strait formed close to its western extremity, generally called Dampier's Passage or Strait; but this track being little frequented, a good look out is necessary, as there may be dangers not yet discovered,* in the approach to this strait from the southward.

Directions from New Britain to the Pitt's Passage, in the S. E. monsoon.

Whether the route by St. George's Channel, or that through Dampier's Strait, be followed, you ought to sail within a moderate distance of the North coast of New Guinea, in order to avoid the easterly currents and light variable N.W. winds, which may be expected North of the equator. These N. Easterly currents, are liable to drift ships a great way off into the ocean, rendering it necessary after getting into lon. 134° E., to keep near the coast of New Guinea, when bound into the Pitt's Passage in the S. E. monsoon, or from March to September.

After passing betwixt Point Pigot and the N.W. end of New Guinea, through Dampier's Strait, into the Pitt's Passage, conform to the directions given in one of the former sections, for pursuing the route from China outside of the Philippine Islands, and through the Pitt's Passage.

or by the northern track though the Sooloo Sea in the N. E. monsoon.

When the N.W. monsoon prevails to the southward, and the N. E. monsoon to the northward of the equator, a ship bound to Hindoostan, ought not to steer along the coast of New Guinea to the westward, as recommended above; but in November, December, and January, she ought to proceed to the northward until in about lat. 5° N., where N. E. winds may be expected to run with to the westward. The route to the southward of Mindanao, through Baseelan Strait, and the Sooloo Sea, round the North ends of Banguey and Balambangan into the China Sea, then through Malacca Strait, will in general, be more speedy than any other, during the N. E. monsoon. Directions will be found for this route, near the end of that section where the Molucca and Banda Islands are described; instructions being there given, for sailing from Amboina toward Hindoostan.

Eastern routes from Port Jackson, toward China or Hindoostan.

DEPARTING from PORT JACKSON or VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, ships bound to China, or to Hindoostan (if the southern passage be not adopted), when the N. E. monsoon is prevailing in North latitude, will generally have steadier winds, by pursuing a route more easterly than that described above, through St. George's Channel. There are two routes much frequented, which seem to be equally safe; one of these is to the westward of New Caledonia, the New Hebrides, and Santa Cruz or Egmont Island, leaving to the westward the great chain called Solomon Islands. The other route is to the eastward of New Caledonia, and the New Hebrides, leaving the Friendly Islands to the eastward, the westernmost group of which is called Feegee Islands.

To proceed by the route westerward of New Caledonia.

To proceed by the westernmost of these routes, a ship ought to steer to the E. N. Eastward after leaving Port Jackson, to benefit by steady winds well out from the coast; and having got into about lon. 160° E., a northerly course may be steered, taking care to give a proper birth to the reefs which stretch a great way out from the N.W. end of New Caledonia.

As the wind blows sometimes from S. S.W. or S.W., contiguous to the western coast of New Caledonia, a ship can have no occasion to approach near to it, except she be in want

* The ships in search of La Perouse, went through this strait in June, 1793. Captain Bristow, employed in the southern fishery, passed also through it: he cruised near a month for whales, in May, off the Admiralty Islands and New Hanover; and although plenty of whales were seen, the boat could seldom be lowered down, on account of a continuance of blowing weather.

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of fresh water; which necessary article, may in a case of necessity, be procured at Port St. Vincent.

If a ship intend to go into that port, she must steer to fall in with the Great Reef, well to the southward, and then run along the edge of it, to the entrance of the port.

Geo. Site of its southern extremity; contiguous reef, and Isle of Pines.

NEW CALEDONIA, the southern extremity in lat. 22° 30′ S., lon. 166° 50′ E., is low land, not visible from the southern part of the Great Reef that surrounds it; for the southernmost extreme of the reef, is in lat. 23° S., lon. 166° 51′ E.; and the isle of Pines, lies to the eastward in lat. 22° 42′ S., lon. 167° 34′ E.

Geo. Site of Port St. Vincent.

PORT ST. VINCENT, situated on the S.W. side of New Caledonia, is in lat. 22° 0′ S., lon. 165° 55¼′ E., by mean of 25 sets of lunar observations, taken by Captain Kent, in H. M. S. Buffalo, when he discovered it in 1803; and of which, he gives the following description.

This beautiful and extensive harbour, is formed by islands, many of them of considerable size, and are situated about 4 miles within the coral reef that extends along the whole S.W. coast of New Caledonia, excepting where it has a few breaks. It fronts the shore at the distance of from 4 to 8 miles, but stretches much farther from the North and South extremities of the land, which in those parts, is not visible when close to the reef. This great reef consists of a steep wall to seaward, level with the water's edge, having no soundings with 150 fathoms line, within two ships' lengths of it in most places.

The passage through which a ship must enter between the S. E. and N.W. points of the reef, in going into Port St. Vincent, is ¾ of a mile wide, having 51 fathoms in the centre; and the passage between the S. E. and N.W. Heads of the Port, on Governor King's, and Colonel Paterson's Islands, is ¼ of a mile wide, with 19 fathoms water in the centre.

Directions.

From the direction of the land, and being within the southern tropic, the general wind must be at S. E., which is upon the beam, sailing in and out of this harbour; however, should the wind incline more easterly off the land, there can be no danger going in, for by passing within a cable's length of the S. E. point of the reef, and getting within it, you may anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms muddy bottom, well sheltered, with the water perfectly smooth; indeed, from the reef, to the two islands forming the entrance of the harbour, a distance of near 4 miles, you are as well sheltered as at Spithead. Within the two points of the reef, the channel widens to S. Eastward between the reef and Governor King's Island, having plenty of room to work in the largest ship as far as the heads of the harbour, if the wind do not over-blow.

Within the heads of the harbour, you may anchor in from 10 fathoms to any decreasing depth, secure from all winds and weather. The tide rises between 5 and 6 feet, high water at 8¼ hours on full and change of the moon. Variation, 11° E.

In the passage between Robbin's and Governor King's Islands, on the South side of the Middle Ground, there is plenty of water for any ship; and S. E. of this passage, there are a number of islands, forming perhaps many harbours equal to Port St. Vincent. Between Colonel Paterson's and Round Island, there is also a passage to the N.W., and a few islands in that direction, but this passage seems not to have depth sufficient for a large ship. It is to be observed, that all the islands mentioned, are within the coral reef which extends along the S.W. side of New Caledonia; and there is probably no safe entrance through it, except that leading to Port St. Vincent.

The water procured on Robbin's Island, was not very good, but there probably is plenty in other places, the circumjacent land being generally very high; and by the chasms formed in some parts of it, torrents of rain must fall at some seasons of the year. The trees about the harbour are small, but in the valleys between the mountains, they appeared large, and the canoes are made out of large trees.

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The natives often visited the Buffalo's people, bringing with them, spears, clubs, fishingnets, fish, yams, and sugar canes, which they cultivate. The harbour abounds with fish, and on the reefs and shores, great quantities of shell-fish were found. The islands are high and rocky, but covered in many parts with fine grass; and on some of them, many human skulls and bones were seen.

Geo. Site of the N. W. extremity of New Caledonia, and adjoining dangers.

Geo. Site of the S. E. part.

NEW CALEDONIA, is seldom more than 8 or 10 leagues in breadth, but the chain of mountains which forms the interior, extends N.W. and S. E. about 80 leagues. The French ships in search of Mons. La Perouse, made the N.W. extremity of this large island in lat. 19° 58′ S., lon. 163° 30′ E. of Greenwich, or rather the extremity of a chain of small islands projecting from it; but there are other detached small isles and reefs, farther to the northward. One of these reefs is in about lat. 19° S., lon. 162° 52′ E.; and Moulin's Island in lat. 18° 31′ S., lon. 162° 52′ E., is small, low, and covered with trees, having a reef stretching from it to the westward. Another low woody island in lat. 18° 3′ S., lon. 162° 51′ E., has a reef extending 3 leagues North from it, which is the northernmost of the known reefs, in the vicinity of the northern extremity of New Caledonia. Queen Charlotte's Foreland, the S. E. part of New Caledonia, is in lat. 22° 15′ S., lon. 167° 13′ E.; and Botany Isle is in lat. 22° 27′ S., lon. 167° 17′ E. Loyalty Islands, form a large range to the eastward of New Caledonia, having a safe channel between them and the East coast.

To sail from the N. Western part of New Caledonia to the southward.

Geo. Site of Cape Boscawen.

A ship from Port Jackson, having passed to the westward of New Caledonia, and of the dangers last mentioned, may steer to the N. N. Eastward until in about lon. 164° E., then to the northward on this meridian, which will carry her in the fair channel betwixt Solomon Islands to the westward, and Santa Cruz Islands to the eastward. Cape Boscawen, the N.W. extreme of the island Santa Cruz, is often placed in lat. 10° 55′ S., lon. 165° 40′ E., but Capt. Hogan, made it 10 leagues more to the eastward.

Geo. Site of Deliverance Islands.

Geo. Site of Indispensible Strait.

Geo. Site of Bougainville's Strait.

ARSACIDES, or S. Easternmost of the Solomon Islands, called sometimes San Christoval, has near its eastern extremity the two small islands of Deliverance, situated in lat. 10° 51′ S., lon. 162° 27′ E. In case of falling to the westward, there are several straits among these islands, through which ships may pass. Indispensible Strait, seems to be a wide and safe passage, the South entrance of which is in lat. 10° 15′ S., lon. 161° 15′ E. Pitt's Strait, situated about 3° farther to the N.W., is rather intricate at the North part; being formed in that part, among a group of small islands, which occupies the space between the large island Santa Isabel, and another to the westward. Bougainville's Strait, is the next to the westward, in lat. 7° S., lon. 156′ E.; and there is a wide strait in lon. 153° 30′ E., formed betwixt the S. E. part of New Island to the westward, and Winchelsea's Island and other groups to the eastward.

To sail from Solomon Islands toward the Pitt's Passage, or

toward the South end of Mindanao,

Having rounded the easternmost of the Solomon Islands, the best track for a ship bound into the Pitt's Passage, or toward the South end of Mindanao is, to pass to the northward of all the large Solomon Islands at a moderate distance, then steer to the westward for Winchelsea's Island, and round its North end. From hence, she may steer West for Cape St. George, and proceed through S. George's Channel; afterward, she ought to keep within a moderate distance of the North coast of New Guinea to Point Pigot, and pass into the Pitt's Passage by Dampier's Strait, during the S. E. monsoon, as directed in the preceding part of this section. Or if bound toward the South end of Mindanao and Baseelan Strait, when the N. E. monsoon is prevailing in North latitude, after having got into lon. 140° to 136° E., and finding the winds become light, she should stand across the equator into lat. 5° or 6° N., where she will meet with the skirt of the N. E. monsoon to carry her to the westward, as stated already in the preceding part of this sections.

or from Solomon Islands toward China early,

Ships bound to China in the early part of the N. E. monsoon, after passing to the eastward of the Solomon Islands, may steer about N. by W. and N. N. W., in order to pass

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through among the Carolina Islands between lon. 155° and 149° E., where large channels are formed by the different islands; but in this track a good look out is indispensible, for several undiscovered isles and reefs probably exist. More particularly, caution is requisite in crossing the Carolinas, because the islands which form this chain are very little known; and although they are probably not so numerous as hitherto supposed, their real situations may be very different from that assigned to them in the chart.

When clear to the northward of the Carolina Islands, a course may be steered to pass near the South end of Guam, the southernmost of the Marian Islands, or more to the northward, through some of the channels at discretion, either on the South side of Tinian, or to the northward of Saypan. From hence, a direct course should be pulsued, to pass into the China sea, by one of the Bashee channels.

and late in the season.

Ships bound to China late in the season, having passed the easternmost of the Solomon Islands after January, when the violence of the N. E. monsoon begins to abate, may steer from thence a direct course to the N. W., in order to pass between the Island Yap and the Matelotas; or betwixt the latter and the Pellew Islands, as time and circumstances require. From hence, a course should be followed to give a proper birth to the N. E. end of Luconia; And the most convenient channel among the islands between it and the South end of Formosa, may be adopted to pass through into the China sea, according to the prevailing wind.

To sail from Port Jackson toward China by the Outer Passage.

OUTER PASSAGE, from PORT JACKSON, or VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, to China, is more circuitous than the routes described above, but it seems to have fewer dangers, with steadier winds than experienced to the westward of New Caledonia and the New Hebrides; it may, therefore, be adopted by ships from Port Jackson, or those which come through Bass' Strait, or round Van Diemen's Land, early in the season; for as westerly currents are generally experienced in crossing the S. E. trade, which sometimes hangs far to the eastward, it is advisable in a ship that sails indifferently, to give a wide birth to all the large islands, by keeping well to the eastward of them.

Geo.Site of Norfolk Island.

Geo. Site of mattew's Rock.

To proceed by this route, a ship ought to steer to make NORFOLK ISLAND, or to pass near it to the eastward, there being no danger above a mile from the shore. Mount Pitt, the highest part of this island, is in lat. 29° 2′ S., lon. 168° 2′ E. Variation 11° E. in 1802. From Norfolk Island, a course may be steered to pass near MATTHEW'S ISLAND or ROCK,* in lat. 22° 24′ S., about lon. 172° 15′ E., which may be seen 8 or 9 leagues. By keeping thus far to the eastward, the islands adjacent to New Caledonia, and the New Hebrides, will all be left well to the westward, and the Feejee Islands to the eastward; but as some unknown isles or dangers may probably exist, a good look out is indispensible in these seas, particularly during the night.

Geo. Site of Erronan.

Geo. Site of Miter Island.

Having passed the parallel of Matthew's Rock, steer N. by W. by compass, to give a birth to the range of NEW HEBRIDES, by keeping in lon. 172° to 171° E., as a westerly current is often experienced near those islands. If a ship make Erronan, the easternmost island, situated in lat. 19° 39′ S., about lon. 170° 15′ E., and be unable to weather it, she may pass through the channel betwixt it and Tanna, which is wide and safe. From hence, a North course is proper till in lat. 13° S., to avoid Aurora Island, and others which form the northernmost of the New Hebrides, said to extend considerably to the northward of the situation assigned to them in the charts. If none of the New Hebrides have been seen, steer to get a sight of MITRE ISLAND in lat. 11° 49′ S., which is high land, and placed in lon. 170° E. in the charts, but the Neptune made it in lon. 170° 42′ E. by chronometers, in 1804. Cherry Island lies W. N. W. 9 or 10 leagues from Mitre Island, and Barwell Island lies in a W. S. W.

* This is called Hunter Island, by Capt. Fearn, who places it in lon. 171° 50′ E., and he discovered a high rock to the westward, in lat. 22° 21′ S., distant 14 leagues from the former; this he considered to be Matthew's Rock, which has near it to the northward, a flat rock that may be seen about 5 leagues.

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direction from it, 18 or 20 leagues distance. Cherry Island has a rock off its South end, which makes a near approach from the southward dangerous in the night.

Caution requisite in touching at any of the Islands.

Ships in want of water and refreshments, may keep farther to the eastward, and touch at the Feejee, or Friendly Islands, in order to obtain the necessary supplies. Some refreshments may also be procured at the New Hebrides, but great caution is requisite in landing on any of those islands, most of them being inhabited by an intrepid race of men, who are easily provoked to hostility; and they have been recently successful in cutting off several vessels.*

To sail to the northward across the equator,

through among the Carolina Islands, and

After passing Mitre Island, a northerly course should be pursued, in order to cross the quator in lon. 168° to 160° E., and as strong westerly currents often prevail from its vicinity, until several degrees to the northward, a ship may steer so as to pass through among through the Carolinas in about lon. 163° E.: but if the equator has been crossed in lon. 160° to 162° o E., the best track to pass through among those islands, seems to be in lon. 156° to 155° E., which space is thought to be nearly destitute of islands.

from thence westward to the Marian Islands, and to the Bashee Islands.

When clear to the northward of the Carolina Islands, a westerly course should be followed to pass through the most convenient channel among the Marian or Ladrone Islands, or to the southward of Guam, as directed above. And from thence, a direct course should be pursued, for some of the channels formed between Botel Tobago Xima and the islands to the northward of Luconia.

THE FOLLOWING ISLANDS or DANGERS, it may be necessary to mention, because they lie in, or near to soiree of the routes in sailing from Port Jackson to China.

Geo. site of Walpole's Island; Durand's Reef,

WALPOLE'S ISLAND, in lat. 22° 39′ S., lon. 169° 16′ E. discovered by Capt. Butler, in the ship of that name, in 1794, has since been seen by many ships; DURAND'S REEF, is situated near it, in lat. 22° 6′ S., lon. 169° 2′ E.

and Volcano Island.

VOLCANO ISLAND, situated in lat. 10° 39′ S., lon. 166° 12′ E., by observations in the Cornwallis and Perseus, seems to be placed considerably too far to the N. Westward in the charts; and the adjacent large island Santa Cruz, appears to partake of the same error.

Geo. Site of Hunter's Islands.

HUNTER'S ISLANDS, by the observations of Capt. Mortlock, who saw them in the Young William, in 1795, are situated in lat. 4° 48′ S., lon. 157° 0′ E.. A high island, situated in lat. 0° 48′ S., lon. 170° 49′ E., was seen by the Ocean, in 1804.

Geo. Site of Pleasant Island.

PLEASANT ISLAND, in lat. 0° 20′ S., lon. 167° 10′ E. by Capt. Fearn's observations, who passed near it in 1798, is of considerable size, well inhabited by a stout race of men, who have canoes of moderate dimensions; it may be seen 6 leagues, and reefs project from its North and South extremes.

Geo. Site of Brown's Range, &c.

BROWN'S RANGE and PARRY'S ISLAND, consist of a chain of reefs and low isles, which from Parry's Island, in lat. 11° 21′ N., about lon. 162° 52′ E., extend about 12 leagues in a W. N. W. and N. W. direction to WEST DANGER ISLAND, or westernmost isle of the chain, from whence the reef stretches 3 or 4 leagues to the northward, without having any passage through the whole of this extent.

* Several ships, returning in ballast, from Port Jackson toward India, have proceeded to New Zealand with the view of cutting down pine spars, for masts, &c.; but great labour and difficulty occurred in getting them from the forests to the water, exclusive of the risk of the people being cut off by the natives, who have killed the crews of boats whilst employed on shore. These ferocious people, have also assaulted several ships, and massacred their crews.

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Geo. Site of Margaret's and Catherine's Islands.

The Ocean saw three of the Carolina Islands, and by lunar observations made MARGARET'S ISLAND in lat. 8° 52′ N., lon. 166° 15′ E., LYDEA'S ISLAND in lat. 9° 4′ N. lon. 165° 58′ E., and CATHERINE'S ISLAND in lat. 9° 14′ N., lon. 166° 2′ E.

Geo. Site of Arrecife's Island,

The ship Providence, in 1811, made ARRECIFE'S ISLAND, in lat. 9° 36′ N., lon. 161° 8′ E. by chronometer.

Cornwallis Isles,

CORNWALLIS ISLES, in lat. 16° 53′ N., lon. 169° 31′ E., are two small isles, surrounded by a reef, discovered by H. M. S. Cornwallis, December 14th, 1807.

and Gaspar Rico.

GASPAR RICO, in lat. 14° 30½′ N., lon. 168° 42′ E. by chronometers and lunar observations, are a group of five islands with extensive reefs, seen in 1796, and in 1807, by the Cornwallis.

Geo. Site of Mac Askill's Islands.

MAC ASKILL'S ISLANDS, discovered, October 29th, 1809, by Capt. Mac Askill, the ship Lady Barlow, on his passage from Port Jackson toward China, appeared to be two islands covered with trees, extending about 3 leagues S. E. and N.W., and seemed to be bold to approach on the West side. By good observations, their centre was found to be in lat. 6° 12′ N., lon. 160° 53′ E.

The Lady Barlow, passed over the situation assigned to the large islands Hogolew and Torris in most of the charts, and. also over the assigned places of others of the Carolinas, without discerning any signs of land; from which, compared with the observations of other ships, it appears that the islands which form the Carolina Archipelago, are not so numerous as represented, and that in general, their geographical situations are not well determined.

Although several of the following islands, lately discovered, are out of the route of ships proceeding from Port Jackson towards China; yet it may be useful to state their positions, as some of them are in the track of ships which cross the Pacific Ocean from the West coast of America, or after rounding Cape Horn.

Geo. Site of King George Reef.

KING GEORGE REEF, in lat. 19° 56′ S., lon. 167° 30′ W., discovered by Captain Beveridge, in the ship of that name, in March, 1819, is of an oval form, extending about 12 miles nearly North and South.

Geo. Site of Onaseuse Island.

ONASEUSE, or HUNTER'S ISLAND, in lat. 15° 31′ S., lon. 176° 11′ E. by lunar observations, situated to the N. W. of the Feejee or Fidjee Islands, is high, of considerable size, and populous; affording hogs, yams, and tropical fruits, when Capt. Hunter, of the Dona Carmelita, saw it in July, 1823, and had some intercourse with the natives, who were well armed, of warlike appearance.

Ellice's Group.

Geo. Site.

ELLICE'S GROUP, consisting of about fourteen low islands and sand keys, was discovered, May 17th, 1819, by Capt. de Peyster, of the ship Rebecca, on his passage from Valparaiso towards Bengal. By many sets of lunar observations corresponding within 3 miles of the chronometers, he made the central island of the group in lat. 8° 29′ S., lon. 180° 54′ W.; they appeared to be uninhabited, with bushes on some of them, and the Rebecca was not more than thrice her own length from one of the islands when first discerned at 3 A. M.

De Peyster's Islands.

Geo. Site.

DE PEYSTER'S ISLANDS, are another group of about seventeen in number; discovered on the following morning after leaving the above-mentioned group, and their southern extremity was found to be in lat. 8° 5′ S., lon. 181° 43′ W. by lunar observations and chronometers; these are also small low islands, and seem to be inhabited, as a large fire was seen on one of them in the night.

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Geo. Site of Reirson's and Humphrey's Islands.

REIRSON'S ISLAND, in lat. 10° 6′ S., lon. 160° 55′ W., and HUMPHREY'S SLAND, in lat. 10° 30′ S., lon. 161° 2′ W., were discovered by the ship Good Hope, in October, 1822, and are both low, abounding with cocoa-nut trees. In passing close, to the former, a number of inhabitants were seen, and the latter is probably inhabited likewise, it being to leeward of Reirson's Island.

Geo. Site of David Clark's Island.

DAVID CLARK'S ISLAND in lat. 17° 19′ S. lon. 138° 30′ W., was also seen, and thus named by the shi Good Hope, in 1822, which appeared about 20 miles in circumference, very low and dangerous; more so, as it is situated far to windward of all the known islands which form the group of the Dangerous Archipelago.

Geo. Site of Nederlandich Island.

NEDERLANDICH ISLAND, in lat. 7° 10′ S., lon. 177° 33¼′ E., discovered in July, 1825, by Capt. Eeg, in the Pollux Dutch sloop of war, appeared to be well inhabited by a fierce and athletic race of men.

Geo. Site of Roxburgh Island.

ROXBURGH ISLAND, discovered, and named, by Capt. White, of the Medway, March 5th, 1824, on his passage from the West coast of America, consists of high land, in extent from East to West about 20 miles, which may be seen at a considerable distance. He made the body of the island in lat. 21° 36′ S., lon. 159° 40′ W., and about 160 miles W. by N. from the Island Mangeea.

Geo. Site of four Islands seen by Lt. Kotzebus.

KARLSHOF ISLAND, in lat. 15° 27′ S., lon. 145° 24½′ W., was seen by Lieut. Kotzebue, in 1824; and he discovered, and named the three following islands,—PREDPRIATIJE ISLAND, in lat. 15° 58¼′ S., lon. 140° 2½′ W.—BELLINGHAUSEN ISLAND, in lat. 15° 48′ S., lon. 154° 30′ W.—KORDAKEW ISLAND, in lat. 14° 32½′ S., lon. 168° 6′ W.; but the latter island, had been previously seen by M. Freycinet, which was not known to Lieut. Kotzebue.

Geo. Site of Suwarrow's Islands.

SUWARROW'S ISLANDS discovered by the Russian ship of this name, September 27th, 1814, are four uninhabited islands, extending from lat. 13° 6′ to 13° 15′ S., lon. 163° 23′ to 163° 31′ W.

Geo. Site of Lisiansky's Island,

LISIANSKY'S ISLAND, in lat. 26° 2¾′ N., lon. 173° 42½′ W., is low, about a mile long, destitute of fresh water, with a coral reef extending around to the distance of 2 miles.

and Krusenstern's Rock.

KRUSENSTERN'S ROCK, in lat. 22° 15′ N., lon. 175° 37′ W.; appeared to be a rock under water, as breakers were seen from the ship Neva, in 1804, and shoal water seemed to extend 2 miles from the breakers, which were only seen in one place, but the weather did not permit Capt. Lisiansky to examine this supposed danger.

Geo. Site of Alexander and Peter's Islands.

ALEXANDER, ISLAND, in about lat. 69° 30′ S., lon. 75° W., and PETER'S ISLAND in about lat. 69° 30′ S., lon. 90° W., were discovered by Capt. Bellinghausen, on a voyage of exploration, performed in two Russian frigates, but he could not approach either of them nearer than 8 or 10 leagues, and that only on the western side, on account of the ice which surrounded them.

Geo. Site of Pearl and Hermes Reef.

PEARL AND HERMES REEF, situated in lat. 27° 46′ N., about lon. 176° W., is said to be a great reef, not previously known, until the Pearl and Hermes (whalers) were recently wrecked on it. A great bank of soundings is said to have been discovered by a southern whaler in lat. 30° 30′ N., lon. 177° 30′ E.

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PASSAGE from INDIA toward EUROPE.

1st. INSTRUCTIONS FOR SAILING FROM INDIA, ROUND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, TO ST. HELENA.

To sail from the Mastern Straits through the S. E. trade.

SHIPS from CHINA, which pass out into the Indian Ocean by any of the straits East of Java, or by the Strait of Sunda, ought to endeavour to get speedily into the strength the S. E. trade, in order to run to the westward with steady winds. In lat. 14° or 15° S., the trade wind will in general be experienced brisk and steady, increasing in strength as you proceed to S. Westward, or until in lat. 18° or 20° S.: here, it often blows with more force than in a lower latitude, but in March and April, the trade wind is liable to obstructions, and sometimes fails about the Southern in these months.

Storms happen in the trade limits.

In Volume First of this work, it has been observed, that in the neighbourhood of the Islands Mauritius and Bourbon, storms may happen from November to May, but hurricanes are more liable to be experienced in March or April. These hurricanes blow with irresistible fury, near the Islands Roderigue, Mauritius, and Bourbon; generally most severe at the latter, and between it and the coast of Madagascar. Experience has shewn, that these hurricanes sometimes extend from the Southern Tropic, to lat. 8° or 9° S., and from the coast of Madagascar to about lon. 90° E., or even to lon. 100° E., but their fury is more generally experienced between lat. 13° and 24° S., and within 5° or 6° of the islands mentioned above. Nevertheless, storms have been experienced at times far eastward, to the South of Java, and Sandalwood Island, when the westerly monsoon blows in those seas. January 8th, 1812 the Abercromby, a new ship of 1200 tons, belonging to Bombay, when to the southward of Sandalwood Island, in lat. 14° S., lon. 115° E., was dismasted and nearly foundered, in a tempest, which came on at northward, then veered to East, S. E., and South, and suddenly round to N. W.

A proportional abatement of the violence of these hurricanes, is, however, usually found, according as the distance is increased eastward of the Islands Roderigue, Mauritius, and Bourbon; for ships near these islands have frequently suffered by tempests, when others farther East at the same time, experienced no stormy weather. It is, therefore, advisable, for ships homeward bound, to keep well to the eastward in crossing the S. E. trade, and to round the islands at a great distance, when it can be done with propriety; more particularly, late in February, March, and April, when hurricanes are very liable to happen.

These hurricanes generally commence at northward, and after blowing violently sometime, they shift in an instant to the opposite quarter, and blow with equal fury, producing a very high and turbulent sea. Navigators, should therefore, be prepared to encounter stormy weather, when crossing the S. E. trade. The gun-deck ports, hawse-holes, &c. ought to be strongly barricaded before night, when there is the least appearance of a change of weather, and if the wind veer to northward and threaten to blow, a ship ought to be brought speedily under low snug sail: for there would be great danger of foundering, were she to be taken aback by one of those sudden gusts, with square sails set; particularly if any of her gun-deck ports should burst open.*

To returs from bengal or Malacca Strait through the S.E. trade.

SHIPS from MALACCA STRAIT or BENGAL, bound to the Cape of Good Hope, may cross the equator in about lon. 87° to 90° E.; those which come out of Malacca Strait, ought to steer a considerable distance to the W. S. W. before they haul to the south-

* The unfortunate loss of H. M. ships Blenheim and Java, and seven of the Company's ships in a short period of two years, are fatal proofs of the caution required in this part of the Indian Ocean.

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ward, in order to avoid baffling light winds, which generally prevail near the islands that front the West coast of Sumatra. If light winds are experienced about the equator, every effort should be made to reach the S. E. trade, by standing on the tack that will give most southing; and having got the steady trade wind, a course ought to be pursued to pass well to the eastward of Roderigue, as mentioned above, according to the season of the year.

also from Madras Ceylon, and the Malabar Coast.

SHIPS from MADRAS, and CEYLON, and those from the Malabar Coast, which do not adopt the western route by the Mozambique Channel, generally proceed by the eastern route, or outer passage. But the island Ceylon, from whence these ships often, take a departure, being considerably to leeward in the N. E. monsoon, they are consequently unable to cross the equator so far to the eastward as ships from Bengal, and are sometimes carried near Roderigue by the S. E. trade. Those from the Malabar Coast, should steer for the S. W. part of Ceylon, and along that island to Dundre Head; from thence, they should stand off to the S. Eastward with the N. E. monsoon, keeping a little from the wind, to make good way through the water; and they ought to cross the equator to the East of lon. 84° or 85° E., if practicable, in order to give a proper birth to Roderigue and the adjacent islands.

From April to November, when a storm seldom happens, these islands may be rounded at any convenient distance, from 30 to 50 leagues; but in the other season, it seems prudent, when practicable, to pass them at a greater distance, about 70, 80, or 85 leagues.

To sail from the S.E. trade to the coast of Africa about Algoa Bay.

From whatever part of India ships have come, after getting to the southward of the islands Mauritius and Bourbon, a course should be steered to give a birth of 30 or 25 leagues at least, to the South end of Madagascar; but it seems advisable to pass it at a greater distance than 25 leagues, if the weather is any way unsettled.

Having passed the southern part of Madagascar in about lat. 27° S., a true W. S. Westerly course, or about West and W. ¼ N. by compass, will carry a ship direct toward the land about Algoa Bay. It is prudent to approach the coast hereabout, to prevent being driven off to the southward, out of the stream of the current: and when the winds are contrary, it is advisable to get near the land about Natal, or between it and Algoa Bay, without loss of time, in order to benefit by the strong S. Westerly current that generally sets along the coast to Cape Aguilhas; but in passing Cape Padron and Bird Islands in the night, it is prudent to keep at least 7 or 8 leagues off the coast, to give a birth to the Doddington Rock.

To return from Bombay by the Middle Passage.

SHIPS bound from BOMBAY or the MALABAR COAST to Europe, in former times, have often adopted the MIDDLE PASSAGE, formed by the Chagos Archipelago to the eastward, and the Seychelle Islands and those of the Madagascar Archipelago to the westward. It has been stated in Volume First, that the London proceeded by this route in 1796, but as December and January appear to be the only two months favorable for it, when the N. W. monsoon generally prevails from the equator to the Madagascar Archipelago, and as a ship in these months may be liable to encounter a storm near the islands or shoals, the Outer Passage, ought always to be preferred, where there is plenty of sea-room, and less risk from stormy weather.

To return from the Red Sea, the Gulf of Persia, or from Bombay, by the Mozambique Channel,

SHIPS bound from the RED SEA, or GULF OF PERSIA, toward the Cape of Good Hope in the strength of the northerly monsoon, should proceed through the INNER PASSAGE or Mozambique Channel. Ships from Bombay and the northern parts of the Malabar Coast, may also adopt this passage during the strength of the monsoon, in December, and January, when northerly winds may be expected to carry them well into, or nearly through the Mozambique Channel. This route ought not, however, to be chosen either too early, or too late in the season, although it is more direct from Bombay than any other, because southerly winds prevail greatly in the Mozambique Channel, in October and November, and after February; and even in this month, southerly winds are often experienced there.

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A strong current which generally sets along the coast of Africa to the southward, has enabled some ships to work through this channel in March and April, but it ought not to be attempted so late in the season, for great delay and uncertainty will be occasioned thereby; and as storms are sometimes experienced about the southern part of the Mozambique Channel, even in January and February, many navigators give the preference to the outer passage, eastward of Roderigue and all the other islands situated in the western part of the Indian Ocean, for which the preceding directions are applicable.

with sailing directions for that channel,

A ship departing from Bombay in November or December, intending to proceed by the Inner Passage, should steer to fall in with the island Comoro, giving a proper birth to the Seychelle Islands, and to those that form the N. Western part of the Madagascar Archipelago. She may pass to the westward of Comoro, or through any of the channels between the Comoro Islands, as circumstances require. From hence, a direct course through the middle of the Mozambique Channel may be adopted, with a steady northerly wind; but when it is light, or southerly, she ought to keep within a reasonable distance of the African coast, where a strong current will be found setting to the southward in her favor: and it may be prudent to pass to the west and of John de Nova, the Europa Rocks, and Bassas de India, whether the wind be from northward or southward. The current generally runs strong round Cape Corrientes, and to benefit by it to the full extent, it is advisable to pass within sight of this cape, if the weather be favorable. Afterward, a moderate distance of 4, to 8 or 10 leagues may be preserved from the coast of Natal, unless the wind begin to blow from the S. E. with a rising sea; in this case, it will be proper to haul off to a greater distance from the land.

and from thence along the Bank of Cape Aguilkas.

Whether the route through the Mozambique Channel, or anv of those to the eastward of Madagascar have been adopted, it will be advisable to approach within a moderate distance of the projecting part of the coast about Algoa Bay, if it has not previously been seen, farther to the northward; and afterward, it will be proper to keep near, or upon the edge of the bank of soundings, to benefit by the current.

But if a ship make the coast 12 or.14 leagues to the eastward of Cape Recife, in hazy weather, or if working to the westward in the night, great caution will be necessary to give a proper birth to the Doddington Rock, which has deep water near it, and lies 6 or 7 miles outside of the Bird Islands, or about 4 leagues distant from the nearest land, and about 5 leagues to the S. Westward of Cape Padron.

A description of the bank of Aguilhas, the prevailing currents, also of winds and weather in its vicinity, will be found in Volume First of this work; but brief directions, may here be useful, for ships proceeding to the westward.

In February, March, and the early part of April, when S. E. winds prevail, the best track to preserve the strength of the current after getting near the land about Algoa Bay, is to keep close along the outer edge of soundings until in about lon. 24° or 23½° E. Here, the direction of the stream begins to change from W. S. W. to S. W., and soon after to S. S. W. ½ W., for which a proper allowance should be made, by steering more toward the land, and keeping in deep soundings upon the edge of the bank.

In the winter months, when N. W. and westerly gales are frequent, it is advisable to keep well in with the coast, which partly shelters ships from the violence of these gales; for although the westerly current is strongest at the outer verge of the bank, ships which keep far out are liable to encounter very high seas, and be driven off a great way to the southward by N. W. or northerly gales. From this cause, several ships have been greatly retarded in regaining their position upon or near the verge of the bank, whilst others by keeping well in with the coast, had smooth water at the same time, and got round the Cape five or six days sooner than the former, who parted from them off Algoa Bay.

At all times of the year, when the winds incline to blow strong between N. E. and West, it is advisable to borrow upon the bank, toward the coast, or at least to guard against being

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driven far to the southward, where a contrary or eddy current often sets to the eastward. It is not thought dangerous to approach the coast of Africa, because the wind is seldom or ever known to blow with great violence directly on the shore, so that a ship may always clear it en one tack or the other. The coast is steep in most places, with soundings of 30 or 40 fathoms within a few miles of the shore, deepening gradually to 150 to 180 fathoms near the verge of the bank. With Cape Aguilhas bearing West by compass distant 7 leagues, the depths are 24 or 25 fathoms; and from 24 to 30 fathoms irregular soundings, grey sand and shells, are got when it bears North about 5 miles distant. When abreast of False Bay and the Cape of Good Hope, the bank of soundings does not extend far out from the land; for here, the depths are 55, 65, and 70 fathoms, within a few miles of the shore.

Directions for rounding the Cape of Good Hope.

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, is frequently the boundary of very opposite kinds of weather, for although to the eastward of it, the winds and weather may often be found unsettled and threatening, yet no sooner has a ship got round to the westward of this promontory, than the weather generally becomes settled, with a strong and steady wind from the southward.

When abreast of Cape Aguilhas with a brisk S. W. or S. S. W. wind, a ship ought to keep well out from the coast, that she may be enabled to pass the Cape of Good Hope at a proper distance without tacking, and this is particularly necessary in the night.

In Volume First of this work, under the section, marked "South Coast of Africa, from Cape Aguilhas to Algoa Bay," the unfortunate loss of the Arniston has been mentioned, which was occasioned, by bearing away too soon, in order to round the Cape of Good Hope; whereas, she got into Struy's Bay, on the East side of Cape Aguilhas. To guard against such a fatal mistake, the lead ought not to be neglected, (if the longitude is not correctly known) which in thick weather will always point out whether or not, you are sufficiently advanced to the westward, to bear away with safety, to round the cape: for, you ought not to bear away, until after losing soundings on the western verge of the Cape Bank; and if soundings are obtained after edging away to the N. Westward, you ought immediately to haul off from the land.

Remarks on the winds and weather betwixt it and St. Helena.

HAVING rounded the CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, ships generally steer a direct course about N. N. W. to N. N. W. ½ W. by compass, for St. Helena; but it seems advisable to steer about N. W. by N., until a considerable distance is gained from the western coast of Africa, because you are liable to encounter N. W. and W. N.W. squalls at times, particularly when near the coast. These N. W. squalls do not often happen, but they have sometimes been experienced in both seasons.

April 26th, 1796, we rounded the cape, and steered N. N. W. ½ W. by compass, with a steady strong trade wind, which continued until we anchored, May 5th, at St. Helena.

April 26th, 1799, we rounded the cape in the Anna, (being the same day of the month as mentioned above) and steered N. N. W. ¼ W., by compass, with a steady wind from the southward, which carried us to lat. 30° S. Here, the wind became light and variable, then veered to northward with cloudy unsettled weather, and some rain; and in a sudden gust from the northward in the night, we lost our fore-top-mast, with four men who were furling the top-gallant-sail. These winds continued adverse during two days; the southerly wind then returned, which carried us, May 8th, to St. Helena.

August 14th, 1801, we rounded the cape in the same ship, steered N. N. W. ¼ W. by compass with a strong S. S. E. gale, which Continued 30 hours, and carried us to lat. 31½° S.; the wind then became light, shifted to N. W. and North, with squalls, cloudy weather and rain. After 3½ days of adverse winds, the southerly trade prevailed, with which we anchored 26th, at St. Helena.

Sailing directions.

When round the cape, and having got a moderate distance from the coast, by steering

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about N. W. by N. by compass, a direct course about N. N. W. ¼ W. or N. N. W. will be fair, for St. Helena.

St. Helena.

If the wind blow strong and veer to E. S. Eastward, an allowance for a leeward current ought to be made, particularly if the weather become cloudy,* and the longitude be not correctly ascertained; for in such case, it will be prudent to get nearly in the parallel of the island, when several leagues to the eastward of its meridian. But if the longitude of a ship is very exactly ascertained by chronometers and observations, she may steer direct to make the island of St. Helena bearing about N. W. or N. W. by W. by compass, the variation† here being 17½° West in 1816; then conform to the instructions in volume first of this work, where a particular description is given of that island, and of the road. It may, however, be useful, to point out the situations of the two following dangers, ascertained by Mr. George Thorns, of H. M. S. Northumberland, in his survey of the bank of soundings around the island, in 1815.

Barn Ledge.

Barn Ledge, situated a large ½ or ¾ mile to the S. E. of Barn Point, is about 1½ cable's Ledge. length in circuit, having generally a heavy ground swell upon it, with depths of 12, 9, 8, and 6 fathoms, to 25, 21, and 20 feet pointed rocks on the shoalest parts, as far as could be judged by the lead. When upon it, Barn Point bore N.W. ¼ N. by compass, distant about ¾ mile, Turk's Cap in one with Turk's Cap Battery W. ½ S. to W. ½ S., distant ¾ mile. The Turk's Cap is a remarkable hill, situated about ½ way between Barn Point and Prosperous Bay. Large ships coming from S. E. should keep George's Island open with Saddle Point (which is 1¾; mile North of it), until Sugar-Loaf Point is open with Barn Point, which will carry then clear outside of Barn Ledge; between it and the shore, there are 24 and 20 fathoms in a channel a large ¼ mile wide, and close to the ledge on the outside, there are 32 and 34 fathoms.

Sperry Ledge.

Sperry Ledge, situated at the South point of the island, distant a large mile, and about 1 mile South from Sperry Rock, is a shoal of rocks about 2 cable's lengths in circuit, with depths of 16, 12, and 10 fathoms, to 24 and 18 feet pointed rocks on the shoalest parts, and having often upon it a heavy ground swell. When upon it, Sperry Rock bore N. by E. ¼ E. by compass, the North Black Rock N. by E. ¼ E. nearly touching Sperry Rock, S. W. point of the island about N. N. W., Long Range Point E. by N. ¾ N., (which lies to the East of Sandy Bay). To avoid this danger, in sailing along the S. E. side of the island to the westward, keep Shore Rock open with Long Range Point, till the northernmost of the Black Rocks opens to the westward of Sperry Rock, and then you may haul up for the S. W. point of the island. About a mile W. by N. of Sperry Ledge, there is a patch of 10 fathoms rocky bottom; between Sperry Rock and the Ledge, there are 24, 26, and 35 fathoms water, and the bank of soundings extends 2 miles outside of the ledge, in a South and S. S. W. direction, with 50 and 58 fathoms fine sand on its outer verge.

2d. INSTRUCTIONS FOR SAILING FROM ST. HELENA TO THE ISLAND ASCENSION, AND TOWARD THE BRITISH CHANNEL. DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS AZORES.

Remarks for the route from St.Helena across the equator.

FROM ST. HELENA, homeward bound, some navigators prefer crossing the equator far westward, with the view of having steady winds, and avoiding a space of variable airs and calms, which they imagine to prevail betwixt the limits of the N. E. and S. E. trade,

* Good chronometers are of great utility in running for St. Helena; I have seen the weather continue so cloudy during the whole of the run from the cape to this island, that no lunar observations could be obtained; and the same case was experienced, during the whole of a passage from St. Helena to England; but this was very remarkable, and probably seldom occurs.

†The variation at St. Helena, in 1724, was 6° 35′ W.

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farther to the eastward. This opinion seems not supported by experience, for some ships when far to the westward, have been detained several days by calms, thick foggy wet weather, and a turbulent swell; when others that crossed the equator in lon. 19° or 20° W. had dry weather and brisker winds, and this has even happened to several ships which passed in sight of the Cape Verd Islands. It is, however, prudent, not to cross the equator far eastward, to avoid light winds and calms, which often prevail in the vicinity of the Coast of Guinea.

The prevailing winds about the equator, have been exhibited in a tabular form, in Volume First of this work, where the routes of homeward bound ships will be found, with subsequent directions for ships passing the equator when bound outward: and although those directions, may also answer for homeward bound ships, some brief remarks in this place, may probably be of utility.

Directions for sailing from St. Helena to Asceusion.

Departing from St. Helena for Europe, a direct course may be steered for the island Ascension, which is about N. W. by N. by compass; and in this part of the passage, a steady S. E. trade generally prevails all the year, with a westerly current at times. The island Ascension may be passed on either side, at any convenient distance, but ships commonly pass to the westward of it, at from 3 or 4, to 10 or 12 leagues distance.*

From thence to the equtor.

From thence From the island Ascension, steer N. N. W. or N. by W. ½ W. by compass toward the to the equator, which ought not to be crossed to the eastward of lon. 18° or 19° W., nor to the westward of lon. 24° or 25° W. When the sun is in the northern hemisphere, it may be proper to cross it in lon. 21° to 23° W., because, variable light winds extend a great way out from the coast of Africa, in July, August, and September, whilst the sun is returning from the tropic of cancer to the equator.

To sail from the equator to the northward.

From hence, a North or N. by W. course may be steered if the southerly winds become light, in order to reach the N. E. trade as soon as possible; but if variable light breezes are found to continue far to the northward of the equator, a birth of 40 or 50 leagues at least, ought to be given to the Cape Verd Islands.

Having entered the N. E. trade, a ships sails should be kept good full in crossing it, that her velocity may be increased, to get speedily to the northward. In this route, the sargaso, or gulf weed, is usually first seen in lat. 24° or 25° N., and it extends as far to the northward as lat. 40° or 42° N.

When ships get to the northward of the northern limit of the trade, in lat. 30° or 32° N., they are generally in lon. 39° to 42° W.

It is seldom advisable to pass to the eastward of the Azores, because northerly winds often prevailing betwixt these islands and the coast of Portugal, are unfavorable for pursuing a direct course toward the British Channel. Ships, ought, therefore, to pass round to the westward of the Azores; or should the wind veer to N. Westward when near these islands, the most convenient channel may be adopted to pass through among them, as circumstances require.

It has nevertheless, sometimes happened, that ships which passed to the eastward of the Azores, have got S. W. and West winds, and reached the British Channel sooner than others which went round to the westward of those islands. And a single ship, in time of war, might sometimes adopt the eastern route with advantage, to avoid the enemies' cruizers, which frequently take their station to the westward of Flores.

Islands Azores.

AZORES, or WESTERN ISLANDS, are nine in number, exclusive of a few small islets or dangers, contiguous to some of them; they are mostly formed of high mountainous land, with steep rocky iron bound coasts, affording no safe harbours for large ships. There are several places where vessels anchor at these islands, all more or less exposed to stormy weather, which prevails greatly in winter. Earthquakes are also, at times, experienced, producing great devastations.

* Ascension is at present a military station, and a British ship of war frequently remains there.

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Geo. Site of Flores.

FLORES, the westernmost island, extends about 3½ leagues North and South; the northern extremity of which, called Point del Gada, is situated in lat. 39° 33′ N., lon. 31° 11′ W. by a series of lunar and chronometric observations taken by Sir Home Popham in H. M. S. Romney, and agreeing within 2¾ miles of Tofina's survey of these islands.* There is a rocky bank, said to lie about 1 league off the S. E. point of Flores, and anchorage is found in some parts close to the shores of the island.

Geo. Site of Corvo.

CORVO, separated from the North end of Flores by a safe channel about 3 or 4 leagues wide, is the N. Westernmost of the Azores, and about 1¼ or 1½ league in extent North and South; its northern extremity being in lat. 39° 44′ N., and Point Pesqueira Alto, the southern extremity, is in lat. 39° 41′ N., lon. 31° 6′ W. These two islands are hilly, and may be seen 11 or 12 leagues in clear weather, and are separated from the central group of Azores, by a safe channel about 35 leagues wide.

Geo. Site of Fayal.

FAYAL, the westernmost of the central group, is high, about 3 leagues in extent, of circular form; and its western extremity is in lat. 38° 34′ N., lon. 28° 52′ W.

Pico.

Geo. Site of the Peak.

PICO, is separated from the S. E. part of Fayal by a narrow channel, having some rocks near the middle of the southern entrance, and this island extends about 5 or 6 leagues nearly W. N. W. and E. S. E. The peak from which the island takes its name, is situated near the S.W. part in lat. 38° 27′ N., lon. 28° 28′ W.; this peak is terminated at the summit by a he sharp cone like a sugar-loaf, elevated about 7000 feet above the level of the sea.

St. George.

Geo Site of S.E.Point.

ST. GEORGE, fronting the northern side of Pico, and separated from it by a safe channel 3 or 4 leagues in breadth, is a narrow island about 7 or 8 leagues in extent W. N. W. and E. S. E.: there is a small road or harbour on the South side of the island, about 2 leagues from the West point, and close to the Point of Velas, where there is a village of the same name. The S. E. extreme of this island, called Point del Topa, is situated in lat. 38° 30′ N., lon. 27° 51′ W.

Graciosa.

Geo. Site of NorthPoint.

GRACIOSA, separated from the North side of St. George by a safe channel about 7 or 8 leagues wide, is 2 or 2½ leagues in length, having several high hills on it, which give it the appearance of two or three islands when first seen. The anchoring place is at Santa Cruz, on the N. E. part of the island. The North point of the island is situated in lat. 39° 8′ N., lon. 28° 6′ W.; and the S. E. point, called Point del Carapacho, bears N. 49° E., distant 25 miles from the N. W. point of St. George, and N. 60° W., 29 miles distant from Point Ruba, or the West point of Terceira.

Terchira.

Geo. Site of Mount Brazil.

TERCEIRA, is separated from the S. E. point of St. George, by a safe channel 7 or 8 leagues wide, and it is a middling high land, 5 or 6 leagues in length East and West. Mount Brazil,. is a forked hill, situated near the middle, of the South coast, in lat. 38° 38½′ N., lon.; 27° 13′ W., and close to the sea; it is a good mark for the bay of Angra, which is close to the eastward.

Angrn.

The city of Angra, is the capital of the Azores, where provisions are plentiful, and at moderate prices. About 1½ league to the eastward of Mount Brazil, two steep islets, called Goats Islands, are situated, and 2 miles to the S. E. of them, there are four rocks, called Frailes, (Friars) with breakers near them.

* The geographical situations of the Azores, are here, mostly given from the surveys of Fleurieu and Tafina, which agree nearly with each other. These islands, discovered about 1460, were named Ilhas dos Agores by the Portuguese, or the Isles of the Hawks, from the great number of those birds seen there. They are now called, corruptly, Azores.

G G G G 2

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Directions to sail to that Road.

A vessel bound to Angra Bay or Road, and coming from S. W., South, or S. E., should steer toward Mount Brazil as soon as it is seen; but as the currents are strong and fluctuating, great care should be taken when calm, not to come too near the steep iron-bound coast comprised between Mount Brazil and the West end of the island.

Coming from the northward, round the East end of the island, a wide birth must be given to the South point of Porto Praya, from which a rocky bank extends East and E. N. E. to a considerable distance. In approaching Angra from the eastward, the Frailes and Goats Islands will be discerned; between the latter and the main island, there is a passage, having 15 fathoms sandy bottom all over, where a ship might anchor in case of necessity. Although there are 24 fathoms water betwixt the two Goat Islands, that passage being only a cable's length in width, ought never to be attempted. The channel between Goats Islands and the Frailes, ought always to be preferred, being 2 miles broad, with 90 fathoms water, and clear of danger: or the passage outside of the Frailes, may be adopted, giving a birth to the rock under water, that lies about a musket-shot to the southward of them.

Angra Bay unsafe in stormy weather.

Angra Bay, is only about ½ a mile broad, and the bottom being mostly rocky, vessels moor with several anchors, nearest to the western side. When light winds prevail in June, July, August, and September, vessels may be safe in this road; but it being open from S. S. W. to East, there is no shelter from winter storms, which send in a prodigious sea round the mount from S. Westward; so that the only resource at these times, is to proceed to sea on the least appearance of bad weather. The flood sets to N. W., and the ebb to S. E., high water at full and change of the moon about 11¾ hours, and the rise of tide is from 4 to 6 feet, according to the wind, but never exceeds 8 feet.

Porto Praya Bay, and the anchornge.

PORTO PRAYA BAY, situated to the northward of the East point of Terceira, is the best among these islands, where a whole fleet might anchor in 24 fathoms sandy ground; it has the form of a crescent, and the point on the North side, called Mountain Point, has near it a small islet to the N. E. The best anchorage is in 24 fathoms sand, with this islet shut in with Mountain Point, and the two towers at the bottom of the bay brought in one. With the town bearing from N. W. to N. N. W., ships may also anchor nearer the shore, in 20 and 16 fathoms water. There is a good landing place near the castle, but boats ought not to attempt to land at the bottom of the bay to the S. Westward, where there is a small bank on which they would ground.

Geo. Site of St. Michael.

ST. MICHAEL, separated from the S. E. end of Terceira by a safe channel 23 or 24 leagues wide, is the longest of the Azores, being 10 or 11 leagues in extent East and West, but only from 2 to 3 leagues in breadth. The town of St. Michael is on the South side of the island, where vessels anchor in the bay near the shore; but it affords no shelter from storms, which frequently happen in winter. The West point of this island, called Ferraria, is situated in lat. 57° 54′ N., lon. 25° 59′ W. The variation here, about 15½° W. in 1814.

Volcanle danger.

Some violent convulsions of the earth were felt at St. Michael, from July 1810, to February, 1811, and the people inhabiting the western parts of the island, were alarmed by repeated shocks in January of this year, until the 1st of February, when a volcano burst out of the sea, projecting upward, smoke, flames, and combustible matter. The crater appeared about 200 yards in circumference,* and February 6th, being five days after the volcano burst forth, it appeared like a rock under water, with the sea breaking furiously over it. This danger is in lat. 37° 52½′ N., and about 1 or 1¼ mile distant from the nearest shore of the

* The commander of H. M. Sloop, Sabrina, landed on this little new formed island, and scrambled among the ashes and cinders to a considerable distance, as it was well elevated above the sea at this time; the crater had diffused so much heat to the edge of the sea which washed in upon it, that many fish were seen floating about dead, and the water was very hot. This volcanic isle, was, after a few days, again submerged in the sea; and since that time, there have been some eruptions near the same place.

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West end of St. Michael, being a little to the S. Westward of Point Ferraris, and in a westerly line from Pico de Ginetes. The fishermen say, there are soundings of 80 fathoms near it. The subterraneous pressure of this volcano, had probably forced up the rocky bottom near the surface of the sea, a considerable time prior to the explosion; for the ship Swift, with all her crew, were lost near, or on the spot, before the appearance of this strange phenomenon.

Geo. Site of St. Mary.

ST. MARY, the S. Easternmost of the Azores, is distant about 12 leagues southward from the East end of St. Michael, and like the other islands it is high, but of small extent. The West point, called Maldemarenda, is in lat. 36° 57′ N., lon. 25° 16½ W.; the town and road of St. Mary, where vessels anchor, is on the South side of the island, near the S. W. point.

Formigas.

Geo. Site.

FORMIGAS, (Ants.) situated 3 or 4 leagues to the N. E. by N. of St. Mary, and fronting the channel between it and the East end of St. Michael, consist of a range of rocks 7 or 8 in number, of considerable extent North and South. Some of them are low, others 40 or 50 feet of perpendicular height, and the sea breaks very high against them, and also between them in some parts. They are steep to, for no soundings are got until close upon them. The Great Formigas is situated in.lat. 36° 17′ N., lon. 24° 56′ W., and it bears N. 34° E. from the peak of the highest part of the island St. Mary, and N. 24° E. from the S. E. point of that island, called Point de Castelo.

There is said to be situated a shoal of breakers, bearing true S. 40° E., distant 1½ league from the Formigas, but its existence seems doubtful.

Channel amomg the Azores,

The channel between the Formigas and St. Michael, is 5 or 6 leagues wide, and free from danger. The little channel, formed betwixt the Formigas and St. Mary, is also safe, about 3 leagues wide, but not so much frequented as the other. They are both destitute of soundings, and the islands St. Michael and St. Mary, are likewise steep to approach.

may be used by homeward-bound ships.

When any of the homeward-bound East India ships fall in with the Azores, they ought to adopt one of the wide channels, to pass through amongst them to the northward; the largest of which is the western channel, bounded on the West side by Flores and Corvo, and by Fayal and Graciosa to the eastward. If they do not proceed through this channel, they should pass through the channel which is formed on the West side by Terceira and the central group of Azores, and on the East side by the island St. Michael.

3d. DIRECTIONS FOR ENTERING THE BRITISH CHANNEL, AND TO SAIL INWARD, TO THE DOWNS.

British Channel.

AS ALL SHIPS bound homeward from India, may not be in possession of the best charts and instructions necessary for entering the British Channel, some brief directions for that purpose, will probably be of utility.

Remarks on the directions for entering it.

Ships proceeding toward the British Channel, have generally been directed to get into the parallel of lat. 49½° N, or 49° 25′ N., when considerably to the westward of Cape Clear, then to steer eastward on this parallel until in soundings of 82 fathoms fine white sand with black and yellow specks, which soundings are found on the outer edge of the bank about 50 leagues to the westward of Scilly, By running 16 or 17 leagues farther to the eastward on the same parallel of latitude, they will have 90 fathoms fine white sand: from hence, continuing on the same parallel about 20 leagues to the eastward, the soundings will decrease to 70 fathoms, but not very regularly in some places; and when in the same parallel, the water shoals to 67 or 65 fathoms shells and small yellow stones or red sand,, the Scilly Islands will be nearly abreast. It would be unsafe to approach these islands under 63 or 64 fathoms in the night or in foggy weather, for neither the quality of the bottom, nor the depths of water, will be

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always a sufficient guide to point out their proximity. At the distance of about 7 leagues South, S. W., and West, from the nearest of the Scilly Islands, the depth is nearly equal, being 63 or 64 fathoms sand and shells, or ouze and shells; and there are about 50 fathoms within 2 leagues of the outermost rocks, in a S. E., South, S. W., and westerly direction, with 40 or 45 fathoms nearly close to the S. Westernmost rocks.

The parallel of lat. 49½° N. should not be chosen to enter the British Channel.

THE DIRECTIONS formerly given for entering the British Channel, by steering to the eastward in the parallel of lat. 49° 25′ to 49° 30′ N., seems only applicable to ships navigated by dead reckoning, or when the longitude is not ascertained by lunar observations, or by chronometers; and even under such circumstances, this seems not to be the best track for approaching the British Channel.

First.—Because ships are obliged to make a more circuitous route from the Azores, to get into the parallel of lat. 49° 25′ N. well to the westward of Cape Clear, than would be requisite in steering a direct course for the Lizard Point; and as S. W. or Westerly winds prevail great part of the year, there can seldom be occasion to steer so far to the northward.

Secondly.—Because in time of war, the enemies' cruizers keep frequently to the westward of Cape Clear, in lat. 49° to 50° N.; and they are generally best avoided, by steering from the W. S. Westward, a direct course into the British Channel.

Thirdly.—Because ships by keeping in the parallel of lat. 49° 25′or 49° 30′ N., have, when near the Scilly Islands, frequently encountered sudden shifts of wind from the southward, whereby they were driven to the N. W. of these islands, into St. George's Channel. From this cause, many ships have been forced to take shelter in Cork, or some of the harbours on the coast of Ireland, where they were detained long by southerly winds; whereas, the same winds would have been favorable for them entering, and running up the British Channel, had they kept a little farther to the southward.

Fourthly.—Because when S.W. or Southerly winds prevail, the flood tide sets 8 or 9 hours to the northward into St. George's Channel, and the ebb only 3 or 4 hours to the southward: by which, ships pursuing the route in the parallel of lat. 49° 25′ or 49° 30′ N. are liable to be drifted among, or to the northward of the Scilly Islands, during thick foggy weather, when the latitude is not ascertained by correct observation.

From what has been stated, the following route seems to be the most eligible one, for entering the British Channel.

Directions for approaching and sailing into it.

HOMEWARD BOUND SHIPS, after passing the Azores, should shape a direct course toward the Lizard Point, inclining a little to the northward as circumstances require. From January to May, when N. E. or Northerly winds frequently prevail outside, and in the entrance of the British Channel, it will be proper to get into about lat. 49° N., when the meridian of Cape Clear is approached: an easterly course for the Lizard Point ought then to be followed, and if the wind blow steady from northward, the parallel of 49° 50′ may be preserved in passing the Scilly Islands.

From April or May, to November, or December, S.W. and Westerly winds generally prevail; ships may then steer to get into about lat. 48° N. when they reach the meridian of Cape Clear, and from this situation a direct course may be steered for the Lizard Point. But at all times, navigators about to enter the British Channel, ought to act according to prevailing circumstances, by hauling to the northward or southward, as the winds render advisable.

Winds,

It may be observed, that N. E. and Northerly winds greatly prevail in February, March, and April; at all other times, S.W. and Westerly winds are more frequently experienced. Next to these, Southerly, and N.W. winds prevail near the entrance of the British Channel; but those from the N.W. quarter, are seldom of long continuance, and generally veer to westward, although at times, they veer to North and N. Eastward.

and currents.

When strong westerly winds continue, an easterly current is frequently forced by them toward the British Channel, but with steady easterly winds, the current has been often found

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to set out to the westward; more particularly when the Bay of Biscay is open, a S. Westerly current is liable to be experienced.

Geo. Site of Ushant Lights.

If a ship happen to approach the projecting part of the French coast at the entrance of the channel, it may be observed, that the Ushant Lights are in lat. 48° 28′ N., and they are generally placed in lon. 5° 3½′ W., but Captain Heywood, in 1809, made them in lon. 5° 13¼′ W or 1° 44¼′ West from Torbay anchorage, by good chronometers. The soundings near Ushant are 64 and 65 fathoms; high water about 4½ hours on full and change of the moon. Variation about 45¼° W.

Geo. Site of St. Agnes Light; directions for avoiding the Scilly Islands.

ST. AGNES LIGHT, in lat. 49° 53′ 37″ N., lon. 6° 19′ 23½′ W., is easily known by sit. revolving on an axis, the light being obscured for a time in each revolution. The Island St. Agnes, on which it is placed, is the southernmost of the Scilly Islands that is inhabited, but rugged islets or dangerous rocks, stretch from it about 5 miles to the W. S. Westward, having irregular soundings from 40 to 50 fathoms about 1 or 2 miles S.W. from them, and a rocky spot with overfalls from 50 to 16 fathoms, about 5 miles S. S. W. from them.

Ships steering into the channel, ought to keep well to the southward of the Scilly Islands, if uncertain of the latitude when passing them; and on no account, ought these islands to be approached under 60 or 62 fathoms in the night, or in foggy weather. To the southward and abreast of them, in lat. 49° 20′ N., the depth is 70 fathoms yellow or white sand, and the tide flows here, to 4½ hours on full and change of the moon. Near, and among the Scilly Islands, the tides set very irregular, frequently all round the compass.

Lizard Point and Lights.

When certain of having passed the Scilly Islands, a more northerly course should be steered to make the land about the Lizard Point, if the wind is favorable; but with a scant southerly wind, or in thick foggy weather, that point ought not to be approached under 45 or 46 fathoms, which depths are about 3 leagues off it; and there are 10 or 12 fathoms close in with the rocks, called the Stags, that front the point. The two lights on the Lizard Point, are conspicuous when the weather is clear, and at such times, they may be sighted with safety anti Lights. in the night; there is no danger in approaching the point within 2 or 3 miles, with day-light, the soundings being irregular from 30 to 40 fathoms at that distance.

Abreast of the Lizard Point, the stream of flood runs to the eastward in mid-channel, till nearly 8 hours on full end change of the moon, and it is then about ½ ebb upon the shore.

Eddystone.

Between the Lizard Point and the Eddystone, a ship may stand off to 50, and in shore, to 42 fathoms, but not nearer; as there are 36 fathoms nearly in the stream of the Eddystone. From hence, to the Start Point, a ship may approach the shore to 32 fathoms, and stand off to 46 fathoms.

About 3 or 3½ miles W. N.W. true bearing from the Eddystone, is situated the Hand Deep Bank, having only 4 fathoms on it at low water spring tides, and 30 fathoms very near it.

Toproceed from bence up channel.

Having passed the Lizard Point with unfavorable weather, so as to prevent it from being discerned, care ought to be taken to get a sight of the Eddystone Lighthouse, or at all events, of the land over the Start Point, which is a sloping oblong hill. This is indispensible, if the situation of a ship has not been previously ascertained, to avoid getting over on the French coast near the Caskets and adjoining dangers; for the indraught of the tide between the coast of Britanny and the Islands of Jersey and Guernsey, has proved fatal to several ships steering up channel, which did not keep within a proper distance of the English coast.

Caskets.

THE CASKETS, having three lights, are easily known if discerned in the night; these and the Bill of Portland, bear nearly true North and South of each other, distant about 13 or 14 leagues: as the tides run strong here, and being the narrowest part of the channel until the strait of Dover is approached, it becomes more necessary to make the land about the Start Point, in order to shape a proper course to avoid the dangers off the French coast, and

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to give a. birth to the Shambles and Race of Portland. In this part of the channel, the tides run from 2 to 3 miles an hour; and between Alderney and Cape La Hogue, from 6 to 7 miles per hour, which is called the Race of Alderney.

Variation of the compass at the entrance of the channel.

From the Start Point, a course ought to be pursued up channel as circumstances require, borrowing toward the English coast with northerly winds, or keeping near mid-channel, with South and S.W. winds. If the Start Point has been passed at the distance of 4 or 5 leagues, an E. by S. course by compass, will be proper to steer with a fair wind, the variation of the compass being at present, 1827, about 25 West in the entrance of the British Channel.

Lieutenant Murdoch M'Kenzie, Marine Surveyor to the Admiralty, made it 23° West at Tor Bay in 1781, and 23° W. at St. Helen's in 1783. Lieutenant John Murray, in a survey of the, coast near Beachy Head, made the variation at that place 23° W. in 1806. Mr. Grœme Spence, a very accurate surveyor, who under the direction of the Admiralty Board, surveyed minutely great part of the coasts of England, made the variation 24° 45′ W. at the Scilly Islands, in 1792. From 1792 to 1817, a period of 25 years, the total increase of the variation in London was 33½ minutes West, which added to the observed variation by Mr. Spence in 1792 at the Scilly Islands, would make the variation there 25° 18½′ W, in 1817, which is probably near the truth; for the annual increase of variation cannot differ much at the Scilly Islands from that observed at London, as the quantity is very small, from the magnetic pole being nearly stationary; and it is now nearly certain, that the westerly variation is beginning to decrease. At the apartments of the Royal Society, Somerset House, the variation is at present 24° 17′ 50″ West, and the dip about 72° 32½′ N.

Ships entering the British Channel, may allow about 26° of West variation until they approach the Scilly Islands, 25° in running up to the Isle of Wight, and 24° from thence to Dungeness., But it should be observed, that with the ship's head easterly, in steering up channel, the West variations will probably be from 1° to 3 or 4° less than the true variation; and the same excess of West variation will probably be experienced if the ship's head be to the westward: exemplifications of which, will be found in the introduction to this work.

To steer from theStart Point up channel.

FROM THE START POINT, an E. by S. course steered by compass, will in general with a fair wind, carry a ship directly up channel until abreast of Beachy Head; which ought not to be approached under 18 fathoms in a large ship, on account of the shoals that lie to the S. E. and eastward of it. When clear of them, she must haul up East and E. N. Eastward for Dungeness, in order to give a birth to the Ridge and Varne Shoals, in proceeding toward the South Foreland.

Caution requisite in sailing up with a strong S.W. wind,

It may be proper to observe, that an accumulation of water is forced into the British Channel with strong S.W. winds, the tides being then much higher than at other times. The velocity of the flood is also increased by these winds, for it continues an hour, or more, longer than usual, the ebb being greatly repressed by them. From this circumstance, ships running up channel with a strong S.W. gale, are liable to be a-head of their reckoning, if a proper allowance is not made: for by entering it with the first of the flood, and running at the rate of 8 or 10 knots by the log, they will carry the tide with them 10 or 11 hours, which will probably carry them all the way from the Start up to Beachy Head, or in some cases, nearly to Dungeness. From this cause, several ships have got upon the Ridge or Verne Shoals, or over toward Cape Grisnez, when by the reckoning they had scarcely passed Beachy Head.

or in foggy weather.

Depths ought to be preserved in sailing from the Start Point,

THE WEATHER in the CHANNEL, being frequently very thick and foggy, great caution is necessary when navigators are not well acquainted, particularly if they encounter variable winds blowing strong. Between the Start Point and the Bill of Portland, a ship may keep in from 30 to 36 fathoms; by not exceeding the latter depth, she will avoid the strong indraught between Guernsey, Jersey, and their contiguous dangers. Off the Bill of Portland, the flood runs to the eastward until 10¼ hours at full and change of the moon. The Race

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and Shambles should not be approachedl under 26 fathoms, for the water deepens to 40 and and 45 fathoms in some holes near the Race, with very uneven rocky bottom.

to Dunnose,

Between the Bill of Portland and Dunnose, from 35 to 26 fathoms are good depths to keep in, with a N. W. or Northerly wind; by not coming under 26 fathoms, the indraught toward the Needles and Freshwater Bay, will be avoided. The lead ought to be kept going, when the Isle of Wight is approached during thick weather, for by neglecting it, many ships have been lost.

The flood runs to the eastward off Dunnose, in mid-channel, until about 11 hours at full and change of the moon; and about 2 hours sooner on the shore, it is high water. The South part of the Isle of Wight ought not to be approached close, for the shore is fronted by rocky uneven bottom, with strong ripplings, during spring tides.

and from thence to the Owers.

Kingsmore Shoal.

FROM DUNNOSE to the Owers, a ship may approach the shore to 22. or 20 fathoms, and stand off to 30 fathoms; when near the Owers in thick weather and light winds, the lead ought not to he neglected, because the last ¼ flood and the whole of the ebb, set strong over that dangerous bank toward St. Helen's Road, and 20 fathoms water is very near to it. To the eastward of the Owers, lies KINGSMORE SHOAL, extending N. E. and S.W. about 2 miles, having 5½ and 6 fathoms hard gravel on its S. E. part, which is the least water. From its S. E. extremity the true bearings and distances of the following places were ascertained by Col. Beaufoy, who surveyed this shoal, viz. Beachey Head signal-mast E. 5° 9′ N., distant 26¼ miles; West side of Chanctonbury Ring N, 9° 47′ E., distant 10 miles; High Down Windmill N. 4° 31′ E., distant 8 I miles; Chichester Spire N. 58° 55′ W., distant 152/3 miles; and the Owers Light W. 12° 34′ S., distant 9 miles.

Beachy Head.

Wide Mouth Shoal.

Between the Owers and Beachy Head, from 28 to 18 fathoms are good depths to preserve; by not borrowing under 18 fathoms, a ship will pass outside of the shoals that lie to the E. S. E. of Beachy Head, the outermost of which is the WIDE MOUTH SHOAL, generally called the Royal Sovereign's Shoal, because H. M. ship of this name was nearly lost on it; which is of circular form, about 500 feet in diameter, with 12 or 13 feet water on it at low spring tides. This shoal was lately examined by Col. Mark Beaufoy, accompanied by some fishermen, who ascertained its relative position from the following places by sextant.

Bexhill Church bears true N. 17½° E., distant 6.34.nautic miles from the shoal; Willington Mill true W. 18¾ N., distant 7.65 miles; Beachy Head flagstaff true W. 2½° S., distant 6.61 miles: and the shoal bears E. S. E. by compass from Beachy Head flagstaff. When upon the shoal, Murray's Tent is on with the East knowl called Tillum, and the grove near Hollywell on with the Chalk Pit and three Bergs.

To avoid the shoal in coming up channel, when round Beachy Head, observe a spot called Greenland, which keep open with the Bluff Head, and steer E. by N. by compass, to keep clear of the shoal, and you will fetch Dungeness lighthouse.

There is said to be another patch of this shoal with 4 fathoms water on it, bearing by compass about E. S. E. ¾ S. from Beachy Head, distant 6½ miles, about 1 mile outside of the former; and another patch called the Horse of Willington, is said to lie within them.*

Off Beachy Head, the flood runs to the eastward until 11¾ hours on full and change of the moon.

By bringing either of the three windmills on with the sea houses at East Bourne, there is good anchorage in hard blue clay, and safer riding than at Dungeness.

To sail from Beachy Head to Dungeness.

From the shoals off Beachy Head to Dungeness, a ship may stand off to 20, and inshore to 12 fathoms; by not coining under this depth, she will pass clear outside of the shoals that

* The Admiralty Chart, containing an excellent survey of these shoals and the adjacent coast, will be found a valuable guide for this part of the channel.

VOL. II. H H H H

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lie to the West and eastward of Dungeness. Here, the flood, which enters the channel from westward, comes in contact with the flood that comes from the North Sea through the Strait of Dover, which is called the meeting of the tides. Their direction and velocity hereabout, depend much on the strength of the prevailing winds, being subject to great irregularities at times.

Directions for sailing from thence,

FROM ABREAST OF DUNGENESS, a ship must not stand off farther than 17 or 18 fathoms, on account of the Verne; nor under 12 fathoms toward the shore, until clear of the ledge of rocks that project above a mile from the shore to the westward of Folkstone. When to the eastward of this ledge, the shore is safe to approach to 10 fathoms, and to avoid the Verne and Ridge, in passing from Folkstone to Dover, a ship should keep within 3 miles of the shore.

round the South Foreland,

Proceeding from Dover Road toward the Downs, 17 fathoms would carry a ship outside of the South Sandhead, the track of 15 fathoms is directly toward it, and 12 or 13 fathoms will carry her within it; but the South Foreland being pretty steep to, many ships have run upon the shore there, in the night, during thick foggy weather, because they were fearful of getting near the Goodwin Sand. When the South Foreland lights are seen, a ship will not get upon the main, if the lights are kept in sight from the deck over the land; but she ought not to come under 10 or 11 fathoms off pitch of the Foreland, because these depths are only about ½ mile from the shore, which is steep in this place from 10 to 6 fathoms; and from the depths of 6 or 7 fathoms, a ship might ground on the rocks before another cast of the lead could be obtained.

WHEN SHIPS are obliged to run from Dover Road for the Downs during very thick weather in the night, when the lights are not seen, it is certainly preferable to borrow toward the main rather than venture near the Goodwin Sand; but in doing so, great caution is requisite, because the soundings are not a perfect guide, for the depths decrease a little near the South Sandhead, as well as toward the main.

and into the Downs.

The best track appears to be, to keep along the shore in 11 to 12 fathoms, under easy sail, that soundings may be got exactly, and when round the pitch of the Foreland, it will be prudent to haul up well to the northward until a cast of 9 or even 8 fathoms is got, to be certain that the decrease of depth is on the main; but in doing this, care must be taken to heave the lead quick, and on no account ought a ship to borrow under 8 fathoms toward the shore, until she anchor in the Downs.

NOTE.

Dhaulle's Shoal.

DHAULLE'S SHOAL, appears to be a new discovery made by the schooner Dhaulle, in April, 1826, when proceeding from Calcutta towards China and is thus described in herb book.

At 2½ A. M. being a moon-light night, observed an uncommon appearance under the vessel's bottom, sounded, and had 10, 7, then 3 fathoms, anchored immediately, and at sun-rise, the shoal appeared from the masthead to be about 1 or 2 miles in circumference, but no part visible seemed to be shoaler than where we anchored. Weighed, and stood to the N.W., deepening quickly to 7, 18 fathoms, then no ground.

Geo. site.

This vessel, at noon on the preceding day, passed to the westward of the West London Shoal at the distance of a mile, from thence steered N. by E. ½ E. 42 miles, until she anchored in 3 fathoms on the shoal, which would place it in lat. 9° 35′ N., lon. 112° 22′ E., or 42 miles to the west of the investigator's N.W. Shoal, if the schooner had no easterly current in her run between the West London Shoal and the foregoing dangerous bank.

FINIS

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INDEX TO VOLUME SECOND.

PLACES marked with*, have their Latitudes and Longitudes given in the work.—Those marked with †, have only their Latitudes given.— I, signifles Island-Is. Islands—C. Coast—R, River—Ca. Cape—N. North—S. South—E. East—and W. West.

	A
		Page
†Abai Harbour	Borneo, W.	402
*Abrcogoes Shoal,	Pacific Ocean	602
Abula R.	Luconia, N.	378
*Acasta Rock	China Sea	247
*Achen	Sumatra	47
Achen Head	Ditto	44, 45
†Ache Pulo	Sumatra, W.	87, 88
Achow Is.	Canton R.	311, 312
Acoong Chow	China S.	340, 341
Adam's I.	Aracan C.	8
Adam's I.	S. Pacific Ocean	574
†Adder's I.	Luconia, W.	375
Addington's Sh.	Macassar Strait	427
Adenara I. & To.,	Flores Strait	533, 535
*Admiralty Is.	Pacific Ocean	580
*Adolphus Mount,	Ditto do.	580, 584, 587
*Adventure Bay	VanDiemen'sLa.	561
*Agnes, St.Light,	Scilly Is.	607
Aguilhas Bank & Ca.,	Africa, S.	590
Aiou I.	Yowl Is.	483
Alabat I.	Luconia, E.	401
*Aladin Is.	Bengal Bay	28
†Alamagan I.	Marian Is,	502
Alass	Sumatra, W.	81
*Albatross I.	Bass' Strait	564
Albion's I.	Molucca	472
Alceste I.	China, E.	354, 356
Alceste Rock	Gasper Straits	142
Alcoran	Touking R.	282
Alderney Race	English Channel	608
*Alert's Reef	Pacific Ocean	577
*Alert's Shoal	Torres Strait	582
*Alexander I.	Pacific Ocean	506
Algoa Bay	Africa, E.	598
Aligator Bay	Flores, W.	528
Aligator I.	Singapore Strait 215
Aliguay I.	Mindanao, N.	397
*Alike Is.-	Borneo, E.	422
†AlimpapanPoint,	Mindanao, W.	443
Alkmaar I.	Batavia Road	118
Allang Is.	Malacca Strait	183
†Allang Point	Amboina I	553
Allang Pulo	Malacca Strait	183
Allass Strait	Sumb., W.	416, 521
Allass	Ditto ditto	523, 524
Alloo Strait	Lomblen I.	536
Amacock Pt.	Canton R.	307
Amahay Bay	Ceram, S.	552
*Amblaw I.	Moluccas	551
Amboina Directions,	Ditto	556, 557
*Amboina I. & Bay,	Ditto	553, 554
*Amboina Sand	China Sea	368
Amboina Shoal	Celebes, S.	464
Ambolon I.	Mindora, S.	446, 451
		Page
Amboon Harb.	Borneo, W.	402
Amelia's Bank	Banca Strait	133
Amherst Har.&I.,	Aracan, C.	8
AmherstT &Har.,	Martaban R.	19
Amoy I. & Harb.,	China, E.	349
†Ampannan	Lombock, W.	519
Ampat Pulo	Sumatra, W.	68
*Amphitrite Is.	China Sea	291
*Amsterdam I.	Engano I.	95
Amsterdam I.	Batavia Rd.	115to117
*Amsterdam I.	New Guinea, N.	494
*Amsterdam I.	Moluccas	549
Amul I.	Luconia, W.	374, 400
Anak Barellah	Sumatra, E.	160
Anak Serah	Ditto	160
*Analaboo	Sumatra, W	54
*Anambas Is.	China Sea	247
Anatajan I.	Marian Is.	501
AndamanArchip.	Bengal Bay	30
*Andaman, Great	Ditto ditto	32, 35
*Andaman, Little	Ditto ditto	36
†Andaman Port	Great Andaman	34
Andaman Strait	Ditto ditto	33
Andres St. Port	Philippines	400
Andrew's St. Is	Bengal Bay	27
*Andrew St. Is.	N. Pacific Ocean	497
*Angelica's Shoal,	near Flores	523
*Anger, & Peak	Java, N.	111, 138
Anghor Colley	Chittagong	3
*Angour l.	Pellews	499
AngraBay & City,	Azores	603, 604
Angne Is	Andaman	35
Annam Pulo	Sumatra, W.	68
*Anna Pulo	N. Pacific Ocean	497
Ann Grab Point	Callam Strait	199
Anson's Bay	Canton R.	330
*Antelopes Is,	Kangelang, S.	515
*Antipodes I.	S. Pacific Ocean	574
†Antique Bay	Panay, W.	444
Antury Shoal	Marian Is.	501
Anung hoy Hill	Canton R.	329
Anzas Pulo	Malacca Strait	198
*Aor Pulo	China Sea	251
Aparri	Luconia, N.	378
*Apo I. & Shoal	Mindora Strait	447
Apomce I.	Macao Road	324
Apra Port	Marian Is.	501
†Aracan C.	Bengal Bay	5 to 10
*Aracan R.	Aracan C.	6
*Archipclago	China Sea	366 to 373
*Arenas Point	Luconia, W.	376
*Arentes I.	Java Sea	420, 458
Arfak Mountains,	New Guinea, N.	495
Arigas Hili & Bay,	Sumatra, W.	53
		Page
Armstrong's Ch.	Bass' Strait	565
†ArmuydenBank	Java Sea	120
Arram Pulo	Malacca Str	202, 204
*Arrecifes I.	Carolinas	595
†Arroa Long	Malacca Strait	190
†Arroa Round	Ditto ditto	190
Arroas Western	Ditto ditto	191
*Arroe Is.	Timor Sea	546
*Arrogant's Shoal,	Java Sea	457
*Arsacides I.	S. Pacific Ocean	592
Ascension I.	Atlantic Ocean	602
Asia Shoal	Sumatra, W.	80
*Asia's Is.	Pacific Ocean	480, 483
†Asloman Village,	Panay, W.	444
Aspinall I.	Pacific Ocean	587
*Assarhan R.	Sumatra, N.	179
*Asses Ears	China, S.	315
Asses Ears	Pulo Timoan	252
*Assumption I.	Marian Is.	502
Attuee Pulo	Ceram, N.	552
*Auckland's(Lord) Is.,	S.PacificOc.	574
†Augusta I.	Dampier's Strait	485
Augusta Shoal		487
*Augustine Cape,	Mindanao, S.	436
*Aurora Bank	Moluccas	477
Aurora I.	New Hebrides	593
Ava C.	Bengal Bay	9 to 17
Ava R.	Ava C.	11
*Avons Is.	Pacific Ocean	577
†Ayer Besar Pulo,	Sumatra, W.	74
†Ayer Bongy Bay		64
*Ayer Bongy		64, 65
Ayer Dicket		76
Ayer Etam R.		76
Ayer Ketcheel Pulo,	Sumatra, W.	74
Ayerlaboo	Sumatra, N.	175
Ayer Pulo	near Padang	68
Ayer Raja		75
Ayer Ruttah R.		76
Ayer Watccey	Gillolo, E.	478
Aypour	Sumatra, W.	76
Azores	AtlanticOc.	602 to 605
	B
Baakele Bay	Celeches, S.	462
*Babber I.	Banda Sea	545
Babee Besar	Sumatra, W.	73, 74
Babee Ketcheel,	Ditto ditto	73
Babee Pulo Bay,	Ditto ditto	74
Babel I.	Bass' Strait	565
*Babian I.	Java Sea	457
*Babuyan (Claro),	Luconia, N.	380
*Babuyan Is.	Ditto ditto	379, 504

[page] 612

		Page
Baby Pulo	Sumatra, W.	87
†Baby Pulo	Java, N.	114
Baby Pulo	China Sea	251
†Baby Pulo	Timor Sea	538
Baby Pulo	Ceram, W.	551
Baccar Pulo	Sumatra, W.	61
Bac I.	Cochin China	275
Baco Is.	Luconia, S.	400
Badoc	Ditto N.	377
Badong	Lombock Strait	520
Bagar Bay	Luconia, W.	374
Bagatao I.	Ditto S.	400
Baglawang Is.,	Celebes Sea	466
Baguan I.	Sooloo Sea	397
†Bahalatolis I.	Ditto ditto	395
Bahi	Luconia, E.	401
*Bajadorc Cape,	Ditto N.	377
Bakeck Point	Tsiompa	265
†Balabac I.	China Sea	393
Balabac Straits,	Ditto ditto	391 to395
*Balabalakan I,	Macassar Strai	428
*Balagonan Point,	Mindanao, W.	443
*Balambangan I.&H.,	Borneo N.	392
*Balambouang Bay,	Bally Strait	517
Balanac Point,	Luconia, W.	376
Baleekpappan Bay,	Borneo, E.	429
*Bale of Cotton Rock.	Bengal Bay	84
*Balintaug Is.&Chl.,	China Sea	381
*Ballook Ballook I.,	Sooloo Sea	441
Ball's Pyramid,	S. Pacific Ocean	575
*Bally I.&Mount.,	Bally I.	517 to 521
*Bally N. E. Point		518
Bally Strait	Java, E.	416, 516to518
*Bally Town	Lombock E.	522
Balu-Lagong	Borneo, W.	405
†Bambeck Shoal,	Malacca Strait	202
Bampesoi	Siam Gulf	259
*Bampton's Shoal,	S. PacificOc	576, 577
*Banca I. & Strait,	Celebes, N.	432, 453
Banca N. E. C.	Banca I.	148
†Banca S. Point,	Ditto	124
Banca Strait	Sumatra, E.	125, 138
*Bancawang I.	Sooloo Sea	394
†Bancoongong Bay & R.,	Sumatra, W.	56
*Bancooraan I.	Sooloo Sea	394
*Banda Is,	Banda Sea	555
BandaMonsoons,	Ditto	455
Banda Neira	Banda Is.	555
Bandar	Sumatra, W.	82
Banditti I.	Lombock Strait	520
*Bangalore's Shoal,	Flores, N.	531
†Bangi Wangi	Bally Strait	517, 518
†Bangri	Junkseylon, N.	28
†Banguey I. & Peak,	China Sea	392 to395
Bangui Port & Pt,	Luconia, N.	377, 378
†Baniak Pulo	Sumatra, W.	57, 58, 86
Banjoan I.	Timor Sea	543
Banka	Sumatra, N.	179
*Bānkok	Siam R.	258
Bankole	Sumatra, W.	59
*Banks Ca.	New S. Wales	567
Bankshall I.	Canton River	334
Banks Strait	VanDiemen'sLa.	565
Bantall R. & Bay,	Sumatra, W.	76
Bantam Bay & Hill,	Java, N.	113
Bantam Ca.	Cochin China	280
Bantam Hill	Java, N.	114
Bantam Point	Ditto ditto	112
Bantay I.	Luconia, W.	377
Banton I.	Philippines	400
Baragu R. & Point,	Pegu	14, 15
*Birbe St. I.	China Sea	245
		Page
†Barbucit False Hill,	Malaya, E.	223, 228
†Barbucit Hill	Malaya, S.	221
Bar Creek	Callam Strait	199
Bardia Pulo	Siam Gulf	258
Barette I.	Luconia, N.	379
*Baring's Bay	Sandalwood I.	529
*Baring's Shoal,	Pacific Ocean	576
†Barn I.	Gaspar Straits	142
Barn I.	Malacca Strait	215
Barn Ledge & Point,	St. Helena	601
†Baroos	Sumatra, W.	60
†Barren Ca.&I.,	Bass' Strait	565
*Barren I.	Bengal Bay	37
Barren I.	China S.	302
*Barrier Reefs,	NewS. Wa.	675, 582 to 587
Barrow's Bay	Lieu-Chew I.	388
Barwell I.	Bengal Bay	27
Barwell I.	S. Pacific Ocean	593
*Baseelan I.	Sooloo Sea	396, 439
Baseelan Strait,	Mindanao S.	439, 452
*Bashee Is.	ChinaSea	381, 383, 504
Bassar Pulo	Ceram, N.	552
Basseen R.	Ava, S.	11
Bass' Harbour,	Ladda Is.	184
*Bass' Strait,	Van Diemen's L.	562 to 566
*Batacarang Point,	Sumatra, E.	132
Batac I.	Samar, N.	399
Batangan Cape,	Cochin China	280
Batangas Bay	Luconia, S.	400
Batang Capay Bay,	Sumatra, W.	74
Batangpally Is.,	Gillolo Passage	479
*Batan I.	Bashees	381
*Batavia & Bay	Java, N.	117 to 119
*Batchian I. & Strait,	Moluccas	549, 453
†Bateman Bay	New S. Wales	567
Batoa Pulo	Sumatra, W.	64, 70, 89
Bato Balow	Sooloo Sea	439
Batoe Tootoong Har.,	Sumatra, W.	53
Batomande Point,	Borneo	402
*Batoo-Barra	Sumatra, N.	179
Batoo Mama Pt,	Sumatra, W.	61
Batsha	Tonking R.	282
Battakeeka Fort,	Banda Is.	555
BattamI.& N.E.Pt.,	Mal.St.	158, 159, 224
Battanta I. & Reef, Pitt'sStr.		485 to 493
BattooblatHill &Point,	Borneo, W.	404
*Batto Gady	Timor, N.	540
Balto Lombo I.,	Moluccas	549
Battoo Baloo	Malacca Strait	209
Battoo Barroo Pt.,	Sumatra, W.	60
Battoo Mongo	Ditto ditto	93
*Batto Pulo	Timor, N.	540
Battuwang Bay,	Sumatra, W.	74
†Batty Malve I.,	Bengal Bay	39
*Bambelthouap I.,	Pellew Is.	498, 499
Bawang	Luconia, S.	400
Bayat I.	Bashees	382
Beachy Head	England, S.	608, 609
Bear and Cubs,	China, E.	351
†Bee-Hive	Moluccas	484
Bee-Hive Mount,	New Guinea	494
Beeteenan	Sooloo Sea	396
*Beit Myoo	Martaban	21
†Bejaren I.	Celebes, N.	432, 453
†Belawn I.	Sooloo Sea	440, 441
*Bellinghausen I.,	S. Pacific Ocean	596
*Bellona's Shoals,	Ditto ditto	576, 577
Bells' Rock	Bass' Strait	564
†Bclvidere's Shoals,	Gaspar Straits	146
Bencoolen R.	Sumatra, W.	77
†Bencoonat	Sumatra, S.	83
Bengal Bay Dircctions,	India	172 to 174
		Page
Bengal Bay Storms,	India	13
Bengal Passage,	Achen Is.	45, 48
*Benjar MasseenR.,	Borneo, S.	416
Berak Point	Celebes, S.	463
†Bergen I.	Sumatra, W.	94
Berg Wakoo	Ceram, N.	553
†Bcringa Pulo	Rhio Strait	158
Bernardino St. I.,	Luconia, S.	399
†Bessey Pulo	Sunda Strait	106
Bexhill Church,	England, S.	609
*Bhudder Mokham,	Aracan	6
*Bias Bay	China S.	343
†Bidan Pulo	Malacca Strait	186
*Biema Bay	Sumbawa, N.	525
†Bigan Gap & Road,	Luconia, W.	376
†Billimbing Bay 8c R.	Sumatra, S.	83
†Billiton I.	Java Sea	153, 413
Billiton Strait	Ditto ditto	409 to 416
Bill of Portland,	England, S.	608
Binkang Bay	Cochin China	275
*Bintang Hills	Bintang I.	224, 228
Bintang I.	China Sea	224
Bintango Pulo	Sumatra, W.	72
Bird I.	China, E.	353
*Bird I.	Marian Is.	501
*Bird I.	S. Pacific Ocean	576, 579, 582
Bird I.	Sumatra, W.	59
*Bird Is.	Africa, S.	599
Bird Is	Australia	587
Birdnest Is.	Borneo, W.	406
Biscay Bay	Spain, N.	607
†Bishop & Clerk	S. Pacific Ocean	574
Black Jack	Cochin China	279
Black Mount	China, S.	347
*Black Pyramid, Bass' Strait		564
Black River	Malacca Strait	198
Black Rock	Bencoolen	79
Black Rock False,	Ditto	79, 80
Black Rock	Queda	184
Black Rock Reef,	Banca, E.	148
Black Rocks	Moluccas	475
Black Rocks	Sapy Strait	526
†Blair's Harbour,	Malaya, E.	253
†Blcnheim's Shoal,	Malacca Str.	192, 193
Bluff Point	Canton R.	307
Bluff Point	China, S.	300
Boat Rock	Ditto ditto	302
Bobeck Pulo	Sumatra, W.	72
Bocca Tigris	Canton R.	329, 330
*Boegeroens	Celebes, S.	465
†Boele Comba	Ditto ditto	462
†Bolina Cape	Luconia, W.	375
Bolongo I.	Aracan	6
Bolt Head	New S. Wales	586
Bombay	Hindoostan, W.	598
*Bombay's Shoal,	China Sea	292
*Bombay's Shoal,	Palawan, W.	371
†Bomigc Is.	Borneo, E.	430
†Bominy Harbour,	Chittagong	5
Bompoka I.	Nicobars	40
Bone Roaster	Japan Is.	389
*Bongo Bay	Mindanao, S.	436
†Boni Bay	Celebes, S.	466
*Boni I. & Road,	Waygeeooe, N.	481
*Bonoa I.	Ceram, W.	551
Bonthian Bay Mtn.,	Celebes, S.	462
Boobooang	Sumalra, W.	53
Boobooan I;	Sooloo Sea	440
*Booby I.	Torres Strait	581, 585
Booby Rock	S. Pacific Ocean	589
*Booby Shoal	Ditto	576, 577
*Booca Bay	Rotto I.	542

[page] 613

		Page
Boo Is.	Moluccas	475, 483, 484
Bookit Battoo	Sumatra, N.	180
Bool	Celebes, N.	426
Boongas Bay	Sumatra, W.	71
†Boonting Is.	Malacca Strait	186
Booroo Pulo	Sumatra, E.	164, 166
Booroosa Caper,	Sapy Strait	526
Boot Reef	Torres Strait	581, 582
Borne	Sumatra, S.	102
*Borneo Coral I.,	Indian Ocean	97, 98
Borneo Co. & Shoals	Borneo I.	369
Borneo, E.	Macassar Strait	426
Borneo Great R. & Lake,	Borneo, S	416
Borneo, N.	Borneo I.	391
Borneo Proper R.,	Borneo, W.	402, 403
*Borneo S.	Java Sea	416
*Borneo Shoals	China Sea	369
Borneo W.	Ditto ditto	402 to 408
*Boscawen Ca.	New Hebrides	592
*Botany Bay	New S. Wales	567, 569
*Botany I.	New Caledonia	592
*Botel Tobago Xima,	China sea	383
†Botel Tobago Xima	Little, Ditto	383
Bottle Is & Reef,	Malacca Strait	198
*Bougainville's I.& Sh.,	S. PacificOc.	588
Bougainville's Passage,	Moluccas	474
*Bougainville'sReefs,	S. PacificOc.	578
*Bougainville's Strait,	Solomon Is.	592
Bouka I.	S. Pacific Oc.	588, 592
*Bounty Is.	Ditto ditto	574
Bourbon I. & Storms,	Indian Ocean	697
*Bouro I.	Molaccas	473, 506, 550
Bourne East	England, S.	609
*Bouton Dome	Pulo Bouton	185
*Bouton E. Point	Bouton I.	468
*Bouton I.	Celebes, E.	468
*Bouton N. E. Point,	Bouton I.	469
*Bouton Pulo	Malacca Strait	185
*Bouton S.Point	Bouton I.	467
Bouton Strait,	Celebes, E.	467
*Bowen Port	New S. Wales	575, 586
†Bowen's Shoal	Bengal Bay	26
*Brala Pulo	China Sea	255
Brandy Wine Bay,	Sumatra, W.	71
Branni Pulo	Singapore Strait	219
*Brasse Pulo	Achen Road	44
Brazil Mount	Azores	603
*Breaker Point	China, S.	347
Breaksea Spit	New S. Wales	585
†Brebes Point	New Guinea, N.	494
Breda Bank	Tsiompa	267
Brekat Mountain,	Gaspar Strait	144
†Brewer's Droogte,	Java Sea	120
Brewer's Strait,	Sumatra, E.	164, 180, 181
*Brill Shoal	Celebes Sea	402
†Bringen Pulo	Sumatra, W.	74
Bristly Point	Moluccas	549
Bristow Rock	S. Pacific Ocean	574
Britain New	S. Pacific Ocean	588
Britannia's Ba	Sapy Strait	527
British Channel England		605 to 610
Brittany C.	France	607
†Britto's Bank	China Sea	265, 266
Broadway	Canton R.	305
*Broken Bay	New S. Wales	569, 570
Broken I.	Mindanao, S.	434
Broken Is.	Aracan R.	6
Brothers	Andamans	36
Brothers	Canton R.	313
Brothers	China Sea	260, 262
Brothers	China, S.	298
Brothers	Hainan	284, 288
		Page
Brothers	Junkseylon	29
Brothers	Malacca Strait	212
*Brothers	Near Amoy	348, 349
Brothers	Singapore Str.	168, 214
Brouwer's Sand	Sunda Strait	112
†Brouwer's Shoals,	Sumatra, E.	123
*Brown's Range	N. Pacific Ocean	594
Brunswick Rock,	CantonRiver	334, 336
Bubon Point	Sumatra, W.	53
*Bucalissc Pulo	Sumatra, N.	180, 181
†Bucclcugh's Shoal,	Waygeeooe, E.	482
†Buffalo I.	Cochin China	279
†Buffalo Point	Sumatra, W.	81
*Buffalo Rocks	Ava, W.	11
Buffalo Rock	Singapore Strait	217
Buffalo Rocks	Sourabaya	513
Buffalo's Horn	Waygeeooe, N.	481
Buffalo's Nose	China, E.	351
Buga I.	Martaban R.	19
†Buglas I.	Philippines	443
Bulu China R.	Sumatra, N.	178
†Bumkin's I.	Java, N.	456, 510
Bunder	Chittagong R.	3
Bunwoot I.	Mindanao, S.	436
Buoy Rock	Cochin China	277
Burias I.	Philippines	400
BurooPulo	Achen Is.	44, 174
†Burrong	Sumatra, N.	175
Buruncan Point,	Mindora, W.	447
Busvagon I.	Calamianes	494
Button	Borneo, W.	406
Button Hill	Java, N.	512
Button I.	Tavay R.	20
Button Rock	Borneo, S.	421
Button Rock	Cochin China	275
†Button	Sunda Strait	112
Buzzard's Bay	New S. Wales	585
	C
Cabaretto Point,	Canton R.	324
CabbageTree Point,	New S. Wales	567
*Cabossa I.	Bengal Bay	22
Cabra I.	Nicobars	43
Cachao	Tonking R.	283
Cagayan C.	Luconia, N.	378
*Cagayanes Is.	Sooloo Sea	444
Cagayan Sooloo,	Ditto ditto	395
Cahayaga I.	Philippines	399
*Cajeli Bay	Bouro, N.	550
Calabat Bay	Banca, N.	149
†Calamianes Group,	Mindora Straits	448
†Calamiancs Is.	China Sea	449
*Calansoesoe Har.,	Bouton, E.	468, 469
†Calantan	Siam Gulf	256
*Calantiga	Sumatra, E.	160
Calap I,	Moluccas	484
Calapan Road	Mindora, N.	400
*Calavite I.	Mindora Straits	449
*Calavite P. & Mount,	Mindora I.	450
†Calayan I.	Babuyan Is.	380
Caldera	Mindanao, S.	440
*Caledonia New,	S. PacificOcean	591, 592
Callam False Strait,	Malacca Strait	198
Callam Pulo	Ditto ditto	198
Callam Strait	MalaccaStr.	197 to 200
Callat Leheree	Junkseylon	39
Calocohij I.	Celebes Sea	459
Caloombyan Har.,	Sunda Strait	102
Caluja I.	Sooloo Sea	444
†Calventura Rocks,	Ava, W.	10
Calves	China, E.	351
		Page
Camaman R.	Malay C.	254
Camara I.	Sapy Strait	526
*Cambing Pulo	Timor Sea	538
Cambir Bay	Cochin China	278
†Cambir Pulo	Ditto ditto	278
Cambodia C.	China Sea	260, 261
†Cambodia R. & Town,	Cambodia	261
Cambridge Rock,	China, S.	315
Cambuys Great,	Java, N.	114
Cambuys Little,	Ditto ditto	114 to 116
*Camhyna I.	Celebes, S.	467
† Camel I.	China Sea	246
†Camiguin I.	Babuyan Is.	380
Camiguin I.	Mindanao, N.	397
†Camorta I.	Nicobars	40, 41
†Campbell Port	Andaman I.	35
*Campbell's I.	S. Pacific Ocean	574
Camp Cove	Port Jackson	568
Campong Arra I.,	Sumatra, W.	56
*Campou R.	Sumatra, E.	181
†Camraigne Bay,	Cochin China	273
Cana	Ditto ditto	268
†Cancao R.	Siam Gulf	259
Candalamar I.	Balabac Straits	393
Candy Ca.	Celebes, N.	426
Canister Great	Bengal Bay	22
Canister Little	Ditto ditto	22, 24
†Canister Western,	Ditto ditto	22
Canning's Rock,	Gaspar Straits	144
*Canton Factories,	Canton City	335
*Canton Packet's Shoal,	Moluccas	477
*Canton Pulo	Cochin China	280
Canton R,	China S.	307, 324, 330, 335
Cap & Feather,	Junkseylon	29
†Capas de Terre,	China Sea	255
Capas Laut	Ditto ditto	255
Capechong Pulo,	Sumatra, W.	62
†Cap Great	Sunda Strait	112
Cap I.	Aracan	7, 8
Cap I.	Dryon Straits	168, 169
Cap I.	Sumatra, W.	53
Cap-sing-moon	China, S.	313
Cap Small	Sunda Strait	112
Cap	Tavay R.	20
*Capones Is. & Point,	Luconia, W.	374
Cappel Pulo	Banda Is.	555
Caput I.	Luconia, S.	399
Cara-cara Hill	Sumatra, W.	64
Cara-cara Point & Shoal,	Ditto ditto 62
Caramanches	Banca Strait	135
Caran Ca.	Malacca Strait	197
Carang Assem	Bally I.	518
Carang Bram	Banca Strait	133
Carang Hodjee	Ditto ditto	133, 134
Carang Malan Dooyong,	Banca, N.	149
Carang Malan Goonting,	Ditto	149
Carang Malan Toole,	Ditto ditto	149
Carang Timbago,	Ditto ditto	130
Carangua Pulo	Sumatra, W.	59
†Carapacho del Point,	Azores	603
†Cara Pulo	Siam Gulf	257
Caravallos Point,	Luconia, N.	378
†Caravaos	Mindora Sea	446
†Carawang Point,	Java, N.	509
†Carimata I.	Borneo, W.	405, 410
Carimata Inner Ch.	Ditto do.	405to 47
Carimata Passage,	Billi. E.	409 to 416
*Carimon Java	Java Sea	456
Carimon Great	Malacca Str.	164, 212
†Carimon Little	Ditto ditto	212
*Carnicobar I.	Bengal Bay	38
Carnom Pulo & Pt.,	Siam Gulf	257

[page] 614

		Page
Carolinas Pacific Ocean		409, 593 to 596
Carpentaria Gulf,	New Holland N.	544
Carpenters	Java Head	108
Carrang Assem	Lombock, W.	520
Carrang Byang Byang	Sumatra, W.	80
Carrang Ikan Chaby,	Ditto ditto	80
Carrang Ikan Tando,	Ditto ditto	80
Carrang Lampooyang,	Ditto ditto	80
†Carrang Lasarook,	Java, N.	511
Carrang Lebar,	Sumatra, W.	80
Carrang Pingan,	Ditto ditto	83
*Carteret's Harbour,	New Ireland	589
Casiguran Bay	Luconia, E.	401
Caskets	British Channel	607
Cassee Pulo	Sumatra, W.	73, 74
†Cassey Pulo	Near Padang	66
Castelo de Point,	Azores	605
Castle Peak	Canton R.	314
Casuaris Bay	Sunda Strait	108
*Catanduanes I.	Luconia, E.	401
Catherina St.	Brazil	573
*Catherine's I.	Carolines	595
*Catherine's Is.	Gillolo Pass.	476, 477
*Cato's Bank,	S. Pacific Ocean	576,579
†Catwick Great,	China Sea	270
Catwick Little	Ditto ditto	270
Cau I.	Cochin China	279
Cavalitian I.	Luconia, N.	376
Cavallo Pulo	Manilla Bay	364
Cavallos I.	Japan, S.	388
Cavilli I	Sooloo Sea	444
†Cavite	Manilla Bay	365
†Cavnaian Point,	Luconia, N.	377
*Caw-chat	Amoy Harbour	349
†Cawoor	Sumatra, W.	82
Cayman Point	Luconia, W.	375
†Caytone	Sumatra, W.	76
Cedar Passage	Achen Is.	45
Ceicer Highland,	Tsiompa	267
*Ceicer de Mer Pulo,	China Sea	269
*Ceicer de Terre Pulo,	Ditto ditto	267
Celebes, E.	Molucca Passage	454
Celebes, N.	Moluccas	431
Celebes, S.	Salayer Str.	462 to 466
Celebes, W.	Macassar Str.	424 to 426
*Centinel, N.	Andaman Is.	35
†Centinel, S.	Ditto ditto	35
*Ceram I.	Moluccas	473, 552
Ceram Laut	Timor Sea	553
*Cerowa I.	Ditto ditto	545
Ceylon I.	Indian Ocean	598
Chalk Pit	England, S.	609
†Chamcollao	Cochin China	280
Chamcollao False,	Ditto ditto	280
*Champion Ca.	Martaban	19
Chanctonbury Ring,	England, S.	609
Chang-cheun cham I,	China, S.	303
Chang R.	China, E.	351
Channel Great	Sunda Strait	105
*Chapel I.	China, E.	349
*Charlotte's Bank,	China Sea	263, 363
Chatham I.	Andaman	33
Chatham I.	S. Pacific Ocean	574
†Chatham Port	Andaman I.	33
Cheduha I. & Town,	Aracan	7 to 10
Chee-lap-cock Point,	Canton R.	313
Chelimgan	Sumatra, W.	53
Chellaka Pulo	Gaspar Straits	142
Chelsieu Reef	China, S.	348
Chenco Pulo	Sumatra, W.	73
†Cheribon Mount & Town,	Java, N.	510
Chermai Mountain	Ditto	510
		Page
Cherry I.	S. Pacific Oc.	593, 594
Chichester Spire,	England, S.	605
Chi-chow	China, S.	311, 312
China Buckeer	Pegu	14, 16
China Buckeer False,	Ditto	18
China Hat	Sumatra, W.	53
China, S.	China Sea	296 to 348
China Sea	China C.	232 to 387
China Sea Currents		235
China Sea Gales		234
China Sea Instructions		236
China Sea Monsoons		232
China Sea Passages		242 to 245, 451
China Sea Shoals		366 to 373
*Chin-chew Bay	China, E.	350
Chin-chin Pulo	Achen Is.	45
Chin-chin R.	China, E.	349
Chin-chow	China, S.	298
Ching-hai	Ditto ditto	347
Chin-hoy	China, E.	353
Chino Bay	China, S.	346
Chino	Ditto	299
Chitram R.	Tsiompa	265
†ChittagongR.&C.	Bengal Bay	1 to 5
Chook-chow	China, S.	316, 323
Choo-keang	Ditto ditto	330
Chouvay Ca.	Cochin China	281
†Chowry I.	Nicobars	39
*Christoval (San)	Pacific Ocean	592
Chuck-tu-aan	China, S.	310
*Chueng-chow	Ditto ditto	340
†Chuen-pee	Canton R.	329
Chuen-poon-chow,	China, S.	342, 344
Chung-chow	Canton R.	310
Chung-chow	China, S.	318
*Church Rocks	Ava, W.	10
*Chusan	China, E.	352
*Chusan Is.	Ditto ditto	351
†Cin Point	Siam Gulf	258
Circular Head,	Van Diemen's L.	562, 565
Circular Shoal	Malacca Road	206
*Cirencesters Sand Bank,	Billiton, E.	411
*Cirencester's Shoal,	Ditto ditto	411
Clappa Pulo	Sunda Strait	102
†Clara Great	Bengal Bay	26
Clara Little	Ditto ditto	26
Clarence Point,	Van Diemen's Land	563
*Clapps I.	Sumatra, W.	88
†Clark's I.	Bass' Strait	565
*Claro Babuyan I.,	China Sea	380
Claudine's Entrance,	Torres Strait	581
Claudine's Reef,	S. Pacific Ocean	576
Clay I.	Dryon Straits	166
Clear Ca.	Ireland	606
Cleft Hill	Sumatra, W.	53
Clements Strait	Billiton I.	150 to 153
Cleughs Reef	Andamans, N.	32
Cliff I.	Ditto ditto	32
*Clove Is.	Moluccas	555
Clunie's I.	Borneo Coral Is.	97
Cobra I.	Malacca Strait	213
Cochin China,	China Sea	272 to 281, 365
Cocoanut I.	Sumatra, W.	53
Cocoanut I.	New Ireland	589
*Cocoanut Point,	Gillolo, S.	476
Cocoanut Point,	Sumatra, S.	104
Cocob Pulo	Malacca Strait	212
*Coco Great I.	Andaman, N.	31, 32
Coconut Trees Point,	Sumatra, W.	54
Coco Pulo	Junkseylon	30
†Coco Little I.	Andaman, N.	31, 32
*Cocos Is.	Indian Ocean	97
		Page
*Cocos Is.	Sumatra, W.	85
*Codocopuei I.	N. Pacific Ocean	498
Coffin Ca.	Celebes, N.	432
Coffin Hill	Java, N.	512
†Collao-hanne	Cochin China	281
Colliers Rock	Sunda Strait	104
Co-Long-sou I,	China, S.	349
†Colowy Pulo	Banca, E.	148
Col. Paterson's I.,	New Caledonia	591
Combado I.	Token Besseys	470
*Comba Pulo	Ombay, N.	536
†Comodo I.	Sapy Strait	525, 526, 528
*Concordia Fort,	Timor I.	542
Condore Little	Ditto ditto	262
*Condore Pulo	China Sea	261, 262
Condul I.	Nicobars	43
Coney I.	Malacca Strait	216
Conical Mountain,	Cochin China	277
*Copang Bay	Timpr I.	541, 542
*Corea S. W. Point,	Yellow Sea	359
Cork	Ireland	606
*Cornwallis Fort,	Prince of Wales I.	186
*Cornwallis I.	Carolinas	574
*Cornwallis Is.	Pacific Ocean	595
†Cornwallis Port,	Andaman Great	33
*Cornwallis Shoal,	Pacific Ocean	496
†Coron I.	Mindora Straits	449
Corooman Is.	Borneo, N.	403
Corregidor I.	Manilla Bay	364
Corrientes C.	Africa, E.	599
Corror I.	Pellew Is.	498
*Corvo I.	Azores	603
*Cou-cock I.	China, S.	305
Cou-mong Harbour,	Cochin China	278
Courtay	Sumatra, N.	176
Cow & Calf	Bengal Bay	30
Cow-chow	China, S.	326
Cow-ee-chow & Pass.,	China, S.	319
Cow I.	Tsiompa	265, 266
Cow-loon & Bay,	China, S.	338, 339
Cow-ou Point	Macao Road	324
Coxe's Bazar	Chittagong C.	1, 4
Crab I.	Cambodia	261
Craggy I.	Bass' Strait	566
*Crawford's Shoals,	China Sea	368
*Crescent Chain,	Ditto ditto	292
*Crockatoa	Sunda Strait	105
Crocodile Rock	Bass' Strait	565
Crompa Is.	Celebes Sea	530, 531
†Crooe	Sumatra, W.	83
Cross Har.	Nicobars	41
Cruzcool	Chittagong	1
Cua-be	Cochin China	276
Cua-lop R.	Tsiompa	265
Cuckolds Point,	Chittagong	2
†Cuddalore Ca.	N. Poggy I.	93
*Cumbrian's Reef,	China Sea	383, 504
Cung-cung-tao	Group, China, E.	355
Cup-shee Bay	China, S.	346
Current I.	Celebes, E.	454
Curtis I.	Bass Strait	565
*Current I.	N. Pacific Ocean	497
†Cuyo Grand	Mindora Sea	445
Cuyos Is.	Ditto ditto	445
Cyclops Inner Route,	Torres Strait	585
Cypress Point	Aracan	5
	D
Da-bia	Cochin China	276
*Dagon Pagoda,	Rangoon	17
Dalawan Bay,	Balabac I. & Bay	393

[page] 615

		Page
Dalla R.	Ava, S.	14
*Dalrymple Port,	Van Die. La.	562, 563
Dalupiri I.	Luconia, E.	399
*Damme I.	Timor Sea	545
Dammer Pulo	Moluccas	475
Dampier's Passage,	New Britain	590
*Damp,	St. Battant I.	456, 483 to 490, 505
Dancs I.	Canton R.	334, 347
Dangerous Pointed Ro.	Ditto ditto	330
Danger Point	New South Wales	575
Dapour Pulo	Java, N.	115
*Darnley's I,	Torres Strait	579, 580, 582
Dasec Strait	Lingin, S.	156
Date I.	Cochin China	278
Datoo Mandayee Is.,	Borneo, S.	416
Dato Pulo	Ditto ditto	416
†Dattoo Palo	China Sea	246, 404
*Davey Port,	Van Diemen's Land	559
*David Clark's I.,	Pacific Ocean	596
*David's St. Is.	Ditto ditto	496
Davilican Bay	Lnconia, E.	401
Deception I.	Pitt's Passage	484
Deep Bay	Sumatra, N.	175
Deepwater Point,	Callam Str.	198, 199
Deepwater Point,	China, S.	299
Deepwater Point,	Dryon Strait	166
Deepwater Point,	Singapore	219
Deer I.	China, E.	352, 353
*Defence Fort	Bouro Bay	550
Delian I.	Calamianes	449
*Deliverance Is.	S. Pacific Ocean	592
Delhi R. & T.	Sumatra, N.	178
Denneloang R.,	Celehes, S.	463
D Entrecasteauxs Ch.	Van.Die.La.	560
D'Entrecasteaux's Strait,	Ditto do.	560
*De Peyster's Is.,	Pacific Ocean	595
Deptford Rock	Bally Strait	517
Derwent R.	Van Diemen's La.	561
Devil's Rock	Solor Strait	536
Deyil's Tower	Bass' Strait	565
Dgiay Bay	Cochin China	274
*Dhaulle's Shoal,	China Sea	610
*Diamond I.	Ava, S.	12, 13
*Diamond Point,	Sumatra, N.	177
Diana Rock	Malacca Strait	206
*Diana's Bank,	S. Pacific Ocean	578, 579
Diana's Shoal	China Sea	249
Didicas Rocks,	Luconia, N.	380, 381
Diego Ramirez,	Cape Horn	574
Dile Point	Luconia, W.	376
†Diligent Strait	Andaman, E.	34
*Delli	Timor, N.	539
†Dinding Pulo	Malacca Strait	189
Dioyu Reef	China, S.	348
Dipoolool Is.	Sooloo Sea	441
Direction I.	Borneo Corallsles	97
*Direction I.	China Sea	245
*Direction Mount,	Van Diemen's La.	561
*Discoverv's Eastern Ba.,	Billiton, E.	412
*Discovery's Reef,	Ditto ditto	412
*Discovery's Reef,	China Sea	367
Discovery Rock,	Macclesfield Str.	143
*Discovery Shoal,	China Sea	293
*Discovery's Western Ba.,	Billit. E.	412
Diviran I.	Calamianes	449
Doa Pulo	Sumatra, W.	61
Docan Pulo	Banca, N.	152, 154
Doddington Rock,	Africa, S.	599
*Dogger Banks	Chjna Sea	156, 363
*Dog I.	Timor Sea	538
Doif I.	Gillolo Passage	479
Doi-Moi I.	Cochin China	276
		Page
Dolphin Rock	Sumatra, E.	122
Dolphin's I.	Dryon Straits	107
Dolphin's Nose,	Mergui	27
†Dolphin's Nose,	Moluccas	555
*Domar Pulo	China Sea	150, 247
*Dombuck Point,	Aracan	5
†Domea R.	Tonking Gulf	282
†Domel I.	Bengal Bay	26
†Dominos	China Sea	155
Doncan Pulo	Dryon Straits	168
*Donda Ca.	Celebes, W.	425
*Dondrekin I.	Borneo, E.	429
†Dongan Point	Mindora, W.	450
Dooa Pulo	Sumatra, W.	56
Dory Harbour	New Guinea, N.	495
Double I.	Borneo, W.	406
†Double I.	Torres Strait	580, 584
Double Sandy Point,	Va. Diem. La.	565
Dover	England, S.	610
Douw Pulo	Timor Sea	543
Downs	England, S.	610
*Dromedary Ca. & Mt,	New S. Wales	567
*Drummond's I.,	China Sea	292
Dryon Great	Sumatra, E.	162
Dryon Little	Ditto ditto	162
*Dryon Strait	Ditto ditto	159 to 168
Dry Rock	Canton River	330
*Dry Sand Bank,	Macassar Strait	422
†Dry Sand Bank,	Ditto ditto	429
*Dry Sand Bank,	Panay, W.	445
Dua Pulo	Sumatra, W.	68
†Duffer I.	Flores, N.	533
Duke of York's I.	New Britain	589
Dumalan	Mindanao, S.	440
*Duncan's Passage,	Andamans	35
Dune I.	Cochin China	275
Dungeness	England, S.	608 to 610
Dunnose	Isle of Wight	609
Duo Bolod	Sooloo Sea	396, 441
*Durands Reef	S. Pacific Ocean	594
Durian False	Sumatra, E.	162
Durian Point	Sumatra, W.	63, 64
Durrstede Fort,	Moluccas	555
Dutch Bay	Amboina, I.	54
Dutch Channel,	Batavia Road	115
Dutch Gut	Solor Strait	535, 536
Dwaal Bay	Bouton, E.	468
*Dwaalder I.	Borneo, S.	420
Dymoke's Shoal,	Borneo Coral Isles	98
	E
†East & W. Chan.,	Malacca Strait	195
East Bourne	England, S.	609
*East Brother	Hainan	285, 288
Eastern Bank	Dryon Straits	161, 165
Eastern Bank	Malacca Strait	196
†Eastern Bank	Romania Reef	224
Eastern Channel,	Dryon Straits	162
Eastern Channels,	Batavia Road	118
*Eastern Fields	Torrcs Str	579, 582, 583
Eastern Grove,	Pegu R.	14, 16
Eastern I.	Engano Road	95
Eastern Passages to China		417, 455
Eastern Reef	Batavia Road	118
East I.	Alloo Strait	537
East I.	Borneo, W.	406
East I.	Andaman Great	32
East I.	Moluccas	549
*East I.	Natunas	250
*East London Reef,	China Sea	368
East Rock	Malacca Strait	191
		Page
†Edam I. &Chan.,	Batavia Road	119
Edam I.	Malacca Strait	184
Eddystone	British Channel	607
*Eddystone	Van Diemen's La.	560
Eee-chow	China, S.	321
Eee-moon	Ditto ditto	321
Eeeyoo Pulo	Sunda Strait	102
Een I.	Moluccas	479
†Efbe I. & Haxb.,	Ditto	484
†Ejow Peak	Sumatra, S.	104
Elephant I.	China, E.	352
*Elephant I. & Har.,	Bengal Bay	27
Elephant Mountain,	Sumatra, N.	176
Elephant Mountain,	Tonking R.	282
†Elephant Mount,	Queda	183
*Elephant & Pag.,	Pegu R.	16
Elephant Point,	Aracan	1, 5
*Elizabeth's Reef,	Pacific Ocean	575
*Ellice's Group	Ditto ditto	595
Elliot Mount	New S. Wales	570
Elphinston's Bay,	Celebes, E.	454
Ely Pulo	Sumatra, W.	62
Embocadero	Luconia, S.	398, 401
Endeavour R.	New So. Wales	586
Endeavour Strait,	Torres Strait	584, 586
Ende	Flores I.	529
*Engano Ca.	Lueonia, N.	379
*Engano I.	Indian Ocean	95, 97
England Pulo	Gillolo, E.	478
English Cove	New Ireland	588
Enkhuysen I.	Batavia Road	115, 118
*Enkhuyser Sand,	Billiton, E.	412
Ental Point	Pegu R.	16
*Entrance Point,	Banca, E.	140, 142
Empervier	Cochin China	277
†Erakong I. Har.,	Pellew Is.	498
Ernest Mount	Torres Strait	580, 584
*Erronan I.	New Hebrides	593
*Espiritu Santa,	Samar, E.	399
*Espirit St Is.	China Sea	152, 246
*Espirit St. Shoal,	Ditto ditto	295
Estam Pulo	Java, N.	120
†Europe Shoal	China Sea	246
*Eye I.	Gillolo, E.	479
	F
Fabian St. R.	Luconia, W.	376
Fai-fo R.	Cochin China	281
Fair Chan. Bank,	Malacca Strait	210
*Fairlie Rock	Java Sea	141
Fairlie's I.	Borneo Coral Isles	97, 98
*Fairway Ledge,	Gillolo Passage	475
Fakeers Tree	Chittagong R.	3
Fakiers	Aracau R.	6
Falkland Is.	Southern Ocean	573
Falmouth's Bank,	Mindora Sea	446
False Bintang Hill		224
False China Buckeer,	Pegu	18
False First Point,	Banca Strait	130
False Harbour	Nicobars	41
False Johore Hill,	Malacca Strait	220
False River	Sumatra, E.	132
False Second Point,	Banca Strait	130
Fan-lo kong	China, S.	344
Fan-shee-ak I.	Canton R.	327
*Fayal I.	Azores	603
Feejee Is.,	S. Pacific Ocean	590, 593 to 596
*Felix Ca.	Sumatra, W.	54
Feou-kieou I.	Hainan	287
Fernando St. Point,	Luconia, W.	376
*Ferraria Point	Azores	604

[page] 616

		Page
Firando Port	Japan Is.	389
First Bar	Canton R.	334, 336
*First Point	Banca Strait	127 to 130
First Point	Java, W.	109
First Reach	Callam Strait	198
Fisherman's I.	China, S.	342
Fisher's I.	China Sea	386
Fisher's I.	Dampier's Strait	485
Fisher's I.	Malacca Strait	206
Fisher's I.	Tonking Gulf	282
Fisher's Is.	Cochin China	275
*Five Fathoms Bank,	Celebes Sea	461
†Five FathomsBank,	New Guinea, N.	495
Five Fathoms Bank,	Sumatra, E.	124
†Five Is.	Andaman Great	35
Five Is.	China, S.	303
*Flat I.	Andaman Great	36
Flat I.	Cheduba	8, 9
Flat I.	Mefgui	26
Flat I.	Mindanao, S.	434
*Flat I.	Natunas	250
Flat Is.	Alloo Strait	537
† Flat, Is.	Sumatra, W.	86
*Flat I.	Sumbawa, N.	508, 509
† Flat Point	Borneo, S.	416
*Flat Point	Ceram, N.	552
*Flat Point	New Guinea, N.	495
*Flat Point	Sumatra, S.	84
*Flat Rock	Bengal Bay	37
Flats	Canton R.	307
Flattery Ca.	New South Wales	586
Flinders Group,	Ditto ditto	586
*Flores Head	Flores I.	533
*Flores I.	N. Atlantic Ocean	603
*Flores I	Timor Sea	455, 528 to 536
*Flores Strait,	Ditto ditto	533 to 535
Fluted Ca.	Van Diemen's La.	561
*Fokai Point	China, S.	342, 343
Fokien	China, E.	349
Folkstone	England, S.	610
Foon-ky-chy I.	China, S.	297
Foo-to-san I.	China, E.	352
Foreland Lights,	England, S.	610
*Formigas Rocks,	Azores	605
Formosa Bank,	Malacca Strait	209
Formosa Banks,	China Sea	385
*Formosa I.	Ditto ditto	384 to 386
*Formosa Mt. & R.,	Malacca Strait	209
† Forsaken I.	Flores, N.	533
Fortune I.	Luconia, W.	364
† Fortune I. Little,	Sumatra, S.	83, 84
Fotow-moon	China, S.	338
† Foul I.	Ava, W.	9
Foul I.	Dampier's Strait	486
*Four Brothers	Java Sea	514, 515
Four Brothers	Malacca	208
† Fourth Point	Banca Strait	132
Fourth Point	Sunda Strait	111
† Fow I.	Giholo Passage	478
Fraile I.	Manilla Bay	364
Frailes Rocks	Azores	603, 604
Frederic Hendric,	Banca Strait	134, 135
Fred. Hen. Bay,	Van Diemen's Land	562
Fred. Henry Ca.	Ditto ditto	561
*Frederick Reef,	S. Pacific Ocean	576
French I. & River,	Canton R.	334, 337
† French White Ro.,	China Sea	247
Freshwater Bay,	Isle of Wight	609
Freshwater Bay,	Borneo, W.	405
Friars Hood	Ceram, N.	552
† Friar	Java Head	109
Friars	Van Diemen's La.	560
		Page
Friendly Is.	S. Pacific Oc.	590, 594
*Friendship Shoal,	China Sea	369
Fu-chew	China, E.	351
† Fuga I.	China Sea	379
*Furneaux's Is.,	Bass' Strait	565
	G
*Gada del Point,	Azores	603
*Gadd's Rock	China Sea	383, 504
Gagnery R.&Bay,	Tsiompa	265
† Gagy I.	Gillolo, E.	479
Gain-ba Point	Cochin China	278
Galera Point	Mindanao, W.	397, 443
Galion I.	Java Sea	514
Gallatt Pulo	Rhio Strait	157
*Galong Bay & To.,	Hainan	284, 285, 288
Galowa Strait	New Guinea, W.	493
Gamen I.	Dampier's Strait	485
Gap I.	Calamianes	449
Gap of Bigan	Luconia, W.	376
Gap of Padaran,	Padaran Ca.	268
Gap of Solomague,	Luconia, W.	377
Gap Rock	China Sea	246
Gap Rock	China, S.	315
Gap Rock	Sunda Strait	107
*Gaspar I.	Gaspar Strs.	144, 150
*Gaspar Rico I.,	Carolinas	595
Gaspar Straits,	Banca, E.	140
*Gasses Pulo	Gillolo Passage	474
Gasses Strait	Ditto ditto	475
Gaya Pulo	Borneo, W.	402
*Geby I. & Harb.,	Gillolo Passage	478
Geefoo I.	Canton R.	331
Geelvink's Bay & Pt.	New Guinea, N.	495
Genl. Hewitt's Rock,	Gaspar Straits	151
George's I.	St. Helena	601
George St. Ca.,	New S. Wales	567
George's-St Ch.,	Nicobar Is.	43
George St. Ch.	England, W.	606
*George St. Ch. & Ca.,	New Ireland	588
*George St. I.	Azores	603
*George Town	Prince of Wales I.	186
Georgia, S.	Southern Ocean	572
Geravee	Allass Strait	523
Gerftsius Is.	Moluccas	548
Gilboang I.	Bally Strait	517
Gillibanta I.	Sapy Strait	525
*Gillolo, E.	Gillolo Passage	477
*Gillolo I.	Moluccas	437, 476, 549
*Gillolo Pass.,	Do.	454, 456, 474, 480, 505
Ginetes de Pico,	Azores	605
Gingham	Sumatra, N.	175
Glass Houses	New S. Wales	575
Goat I.	Bashees	382
*Goat I.	Luconia, W.	364, 374
Goat's Is.	Azores	603, 604
Godwin Sand	Martaban C.	19
Goeve Great	Amoy Harbour	349
Goeve Little	Ditto ditto	349
*Golden Mountain,	Sumatra, N.	47
Golonasy	Gillolo, E.	478
Gomez Pulo	Achen Head	45
*Gomona I.	Moluccas	473
Gon R.	Macassar	424
Good Hope Ca.	Winds, Africa, S.	600
*Good Hope Ca.,	China, S.	347
*Good Hope Ca.,	New Guinea, N.	494
Goodwin Sand,	England, S.	610
*Goonong Apee,	Banda Is.	555
*Goonong Apee,	Sapy Strait	526
*Goonong Apy	Banda Sea	556
		Page
Goonong Gaja	Java, N.	511
Goonong Ikan Point,	Bally	517, 518
Goonong Laoo,	Java, N.	113
Goonong Ledang,	Malacca	207
Goonong Malaloo,	Banca, N.	149
*Goonong Marass,	Banca	148
† Goonong Myang,	Borneo, W.	406
Goonong Ratoos,	Borneo, S.	420
*Goonong Tella R. & Bay,	Celebes, E.	454
Goonong Poolai,	Malacca Strait	213
Gooty	Borneo, E.	418, 429
† Gorda Point	Mindanao, W.	443
Gordon R.	Van Diemen's La.	559
Gotto I.	China, E.	353
*Gotto Is. & Ca.	Japan Is.	388
*Governor Duncan's Is.,	China Sea	292
*Gov. Farquhar's Group,	Pacific Oc.	578
Gov. King's I.	New Caledonia	591
Gover's I.	Cantons R.	329
Gowencn I.	Baseelan S.	442
Gower's Harbour,	New Ireland	588
Gow-tow-chow,	China, S.	311
Gow-tow-pyah	Ditto	339
*Gozam I.	Banda Sea	553
*Graciosa I.	Azores	603
Grafton Ca.	New S. Wales	586
† Grafton I.	Bashees	382
Granville Ca.	New S. Wales	586
Great Barrier	Ditto ditto	581
Great Bay	Pulo Condore	262
Great Channel	Sunda Strait	105
Great Hog I.	Java Sea	514
Great I.	Bass' Strait	565
Great Inner Ch.,	Siugapore Str.	222, 229
Great Mal-low-chow,	China, S.	325
*Great Natuna	China Sea	248
Great Plain	Cochin China	274
Great S. Eastern Reefs,	Torres Str.	580
Great Southern Arm,	Port Jackson	569
Green Ca.	New S. Wales	566
Green Hill	Canton R.	306
*Green I.	Calamianes	449
† Green I.	China Sea	246
Green I.	Dryon Straits	156
Green I.	Engano Bay	95
Green I.	Lombock Strait	520
Green I.	S. Pacific Ocean	574
Green I.	Pantar, N.	537
Green I.	Philippines	400
Green I.	Van Diemen's La.	563
Greenland	England, S.	609
Green Point	China, S.	302
Greenwood I.	Celebes Sea	467
Greig's Channel,	Borneo, W.	406
† Greig's Shoal	Ditto ditto	409
*Greyhound's Straits,	Moluccas	472
Griffin Rocks	Sooloo Sea	438
*Grim Ca.	Van Diemen's La.	558, 562
Grisnez Ca.	France, N.	608
Grisse	Java, E.	512
Grosvenor's Bank,	Pitt's Passage	483
Group of Is.	Mindora Strait	448
Guardhouse I.	China, E.	353
*Guahan I.	Marian Is	501, 593, 594
Guernsey I.	British Chan.	607, 608
† Guilder Rock	Malacca-Strait	183
Guimaras I.	Philippines	444
Guinapac Rocks,	Luconia, N.	381
Guinea	Africa, W.	602
Gum Guma	Sumatra, N.	176
Gungasaer Reef,	Aracan	9
Gunners Quoin,	Java, E.	512

[page] 617

		Page
	H
Haerlem I.	Batavia Rd.	115 to 117
*Hai-ling-shan	China, S.	299
Hai-mun Bay	Ditto	347
*Hainan Head	Hainan I.	286
Hainan I.	China Sea	283 to 291
*Hainan South Point,	Hainan I.	287
† Halfmoon Shoal,	Bengal Bay	26
*Halfmoon Shoal,	China Sea	370
*Halfway I.	Torres Strait	580, 582
*Hammonds I.,	Torres Strait	580, 581, 587
Han-chew Bay,	China, E.	354
Hand Deep Bank,	British Channel	607
Happoix R. & Pt.,	Cochin China	280
Haraucka I.	Moluccas	554
Harbinger's Reefs,	Bass' Strait	564
Harbour I.	Palawan	371
Hardy's Is.,	New S. Wales	583, 585, 586
Hare's I.	Borneo Coral Is.	97
*Harlem Bay	China, S.	342
Harrison's I.	Aracan, E.	8
Hart I.	Bally, N.	517
*Hastings I.	Celebes Sea	516
Hastings I.	Mergui Is.	27
Hat Hill	Java, E.	512
Hau I.	Cochin China	279
*Haw-cheun I & Rd.,	China, S.	301
Hawkesbury R.,	New S. Wales	571
*Haycock I.	Calamianes	449
*Haycock I.	Natunas	249
*Haycock I.	Pautar Strait	537
*Haycock I.	Xullas	472, 473
Haycock	Manilla Bay	364, 365
Haycock Mount,	Malacca Strait	183
Haycock Rock,	Waygeeooe, N.	480
*Haycock S.	Natunas	250
Haycock	Sooloo Sea	397
Hebes Reef	Bass' Strait	563
Hebrides New	S. Pacific Ocean	593
Hecates Shoal	Java, E.	518
*Hegadis I.	Celebes Sea	467
Helena St I.	S. Atlantic Ocean	601
*Helen's Shoal	N. Pacific Ocean	496
Helen's St. Road,	England, S.	609
*Hen & Chickens,	Celebes Sea	459
Herberts I.	Lieu-chew Is.	387
Herman	Nicobars	41
Hervey's Bay,	New S. Wales	575, 586
† Heysan Is.	China, E.	351
Hia-man-sue	China, E.	349
Hie-che-tchin Bay,	China, S.	345, 346
High Down Windmill,	England, S.	609
*High I.	China Sea	386
† High I.	Natunas	250
High I.	Pantar Strait	537
*High Peaked I.,	China, E.	359
*High Peak	Hainan I.	289
*High Point	Calamianes	449
High Pyramidal Rock,	Sooloo Sea	440
High Rock	Malacca Strait	191
Hindostan Rock,	Sunda Strait	107
Hindustan's Shoal,	Banca Strait	128
Hoa-ock-chow	China, S.	316
*Hoa-pin-su I.	China Sea	386
Hobart's Town,	Van Diemen's La	561
Hogan's Group,	Bass' Strait	565
*Hog I.	Bengal Bay	85, 86
Hog I.	Java Sea	514
Hog I.	Salayer, W.	465
Hogolew I	Pacific Ocean	595
*Hog Point	Sumatra, S.	104
		Page
† Holland's Bank,	China Sea	268
Hollywell Grove,	England	609
Hom-co I.	Cochin China	279
Hom-cone I.	Ditto ditto	279
Homeward Passages from India		597
Hone Cohe Bay,	Cochin China	275
† Hone Ngoai,	Ditto ditto	274
† Hone Noi	Ditto ditto	274
*Hong-Kong I.	China, S.	319, 338
Hong-hai I. & Bay,	Ditto	344
Hong-shan R.	Canton R.	307
† Honimoa I.	Moluccas	554
Honne Gomme Bay,	Cochin China	276
Hoogermeer Shoal,	Java, N.	511
Hoorn I,	Batavia Road	115, to 117, 119
Hoorn Is.	Java N.	114
Hoo-tow-mun	China, S.	330
Hopewell I.	Java Sea	515
Horn Ca..	Terra del Fuego	572 to 574
Horned Hill	New S. Wales	584
*Horsburgh's I.,	Borneo Coral Isles	97, 98
Horse of Willington,	British Chan.	609
*Horse Shoe Shoal,	S. Pacific Ocean	576
† Hounds Is.	Sumatra, S.	105
Hout's I.	Ditto ditto	105, 139
*Howard's Shoal,	Malay, E.	254
*Howe Ca.	New S. Wales	566
Hoya Point	Ceram, S.	552
† Hue R. & City,	Cochin China	282
*Humphrey's I,	Pacific Ocean	596
Hump I.	Dampier's Strait	485
† Hunter Port	New Ireland	589
*Hunter's Is.	Bass' Strait	562, 564
*Hunter's Is.	Pacific Ocean	594
Hurlock's Bay	Sumatra, W.	92
† Hutton's Shoal,	China Sea	249
	I
*I-chow	China, S.	317
Ilara Hummock,	Luconia, W.	377
† Ilchester Shoal,	Lingin Bay	154, 363
Ililin	Mindora, W.	450
Illy Pulo	Sumatra, W.	62
*Indefatigable's Route,	Torres Strait	583
Indigiri Bay & R.,	Sumatra, E.	161
*Indispensible Strait,	Solomon Is.	592
*Indramayo Point,	Java, N.	510
*Indrapour Point & R.,	Sumatra, W.	75
Inland Bay	Java, S.	100
Inner Channel	Batavia Road	115
*Inner Channel	Borneo, W.	405 to 407
Inner Channels	Point Romania	222
Inner Channel	Pulo Laut	421
Inner Channel	Pulo Timoan	253
Inner Harbour	Amboina	554
Inner Head	Port Jackson	568
*Inner Passage	China Sea	236, 360
Inner Route,	Torres Strait	583 to 587
Inner Shoals	Palawan, W.	372
Innes I.	Australia, E.	587
† Interview I.	Andaman, W.	34
*Investigator's Shoal,	China Sea	368
† Invisible Bank	Bengal Bay	37
Ipoe	Sumatra, W.	76
Iron I.	Bengal Bay	22 to 24
*Islamabad	Chittagong	4
Ivanna Bay	Bashee Is.	382
	J
† Jacinto St. Port,	Philippines	399
		Page
*Jackee Pulo	Timor, E.	544
Jackson Port	New S. Wales	568, 569
Jackson Port Pass.,	Do.	571, 574, 587, 593
Jackson's I.	Pitt's Strait	491 to 493
Jackson's Ledge,	Andaman, N.	33, 38
Jago St. Fort	Macao	325
Jago St. Point	Luconia, W.	376
*Jaggers Reef	Flores, N.	531
Jambee R.	Sumatra, E.	160, 165
Jambo Pulo	Sumatra, W.	65
*James St Ca.	Tsiompa	264, 265
Japanese Channel,	Cambodia R.	261
*Japan Is.	Japan Sea	388
Japara	Java, N.	511
*Jarra Pulo	Malacca Strait	190
Jarra Pulo	China Sea	246
Jason Rock	Sunda Strait	122
Java Head	Ditto ditto	109
Java N.	Java I.	109, 510
Java Sea, Winds,	Java, E.	100, 101, 419
Java, S.	Indian Ocean	100
Jawana	Java, N.	512
*Jehanghirc's Bank,	China Sea	292
Jerajah Pulo	Prince of Wales I.	188
Jersey I.	British Chan.	607, 608
*Jervis Bay	New S. Wales	567
Jobie I.	New Guinea, N.	495
† Jocak-ko Point,	China. S.	348
*John Heneker's Point,	Moluccas	549
John Peck's I.	China, E.	353
*John St. False	China, S.	301
John St. I. &. R.	Ditto ditto	303
John St. I.,	Singapore Strait	216, 219
Johore False Hill,	Ditto ditto	220
Johore Hill&Point,	Ditto ditto	220
Johore Shoal	Ditto ditto	220
Johore S. Cape	Ditto ditto	221
Judge & Judges Clerk,	S. PacificOc.	574
*Julian St. I.	China Sea	247
Julkuddar Fort,	Chittagong	2
Junk R.	Canton R.	334, 337
*Junkseylon I.	Bengal Bay	29
† Juthia	Siam R.	258
Jyoi I.	Gillolo Passage	479
	K
Kabingaan I.	Sooloo Sea	396
*Kabruang I.	Mindanao, S.	435
Kai-kong I.	Macao Road	324
Kalang Pulo	Sumatra, W.	53
*Kalatoa I.	Celebes Sea	530, 531
Kali Puti Point	Java, E.	518
*Kalkoon Is.	Java Sea	458, 516
Kalyen R.	Martaban	19
Kaly Pulo	Java, N.	113
Kamaladan Har.,	Mindanao, S.	436
† Kanary Is.	Moluccas	484
Kandal	Java, N.	511
*Kangelang I.	Java Sea	514 to 516
*Kanneeoongan Point,	Borneo, E.	430
Kaow I.	Macao Road	324
Kapooal I.	Sooloo Sea	396
Karakita Is.	Mindanao, S.	433
† Karkalang I.	Ditto ditto	435
*Karlshof I.	Pacific Ocean	596
Katapang I.	Java, E.	518
*Katchall I.	Nicobars	40
Kaya la-pun R.,	Sumatra, E.	178
*Kayo I.	Moluccas	548, 549
Kayoo Pulo	Sumatra, W.	56
Keemanees Point,	Borneo, W.	402

VOL. II. I I I I

[page] 618

		Page
*Keeney Balloo	Borneo	391
Kee-ow Point	Canton R.	327
Kee-to Point	China, E.	352
*Ke-ga Point	Tsiompa	266
Kehan-shee-ak	Canton R.	306
*Kekik I.	Gillolo Passage	475
Kelang I.	Moluccas	551
Kelurabo Pulo	Lingin Road	156
*Kema Village & Road,	Celebes	432, 454
*Kendrick's I.	Pacific Ocean	502
*Kenn's Reef	Ditto ditto	577
Kentlaw R.	Chittagong	2
Kent's Groups	Bass' Strait	566
Kent Rock	Malacca Str.	169, 215
*Kessing I. & East Point,	Ceram, E.	552
Ketchepee	Gillolo Passage	478
*Keu-san Is.	China, E.	355
Keyser's Bay & I.,	Sumatra, S.	84, 102
*Key's Is.	New Guinea, W.	546
Khaut Colley R.,	Chittagong	2
† Khee-seak I. & City,	China, S.	345
Khio Pulo	Sumatra, W.	54, 55
Kiang R.	China, E.	354
Kiery I.	Moluccas	548
Killon Harbour,	Formosa	385, 386
Killon Khid I.	Formosa	385
Kimsue I.	China, S.	346
King George Reef,	Pacific Ocean	595
King's I. & Bay,	Mergui	23, 24
King's I.	Bass' Strait	564
Kingsmore Shoal,	British Channel	609
† King's Point	Sumatra, N.	45, 49
King William's I.,	Dampier's Str.	485
Kin-ngao Points,	China, S.	345
*Kinsui I.	Japan Is,	388, 389
Kio Flat	Malacca Strait	188
Kiong-chew-fu	Hainan, N.	287
Kio Pulo	Malacca Strait	188
Ki-san-seu Bay,	China. E.	355
*Kisser I.	Timor Sea	538
Klobat Mount	Celebes, E.	432
Knob Hill	Sumatra, E.	122
Koan High Land,	China, S.	299
Ko-Cram	Siam Gulf	258
Ko-ho I.	China, S.	305, 324
Koilly I.	Celebes, W.	425
Koolasian I.	Sooloo Sea	396
Kordakew I.	Pacific Ocean	596
*Ko-si-chang Har.,	Siam Gulf	258
Kossoll Reef	Pellew Is.	499
Kraw Isthmus	Siam, S.	29
*Krusenstern's Rock,	N. Pacific Oc.	596
Kule-toa Point	China, S.	349
*Kunn I.	Japan Sea	387
† Kuttupdeah I.	Chittagong	1 to 3
Kuyper's I.	Batavia Road	116, 117
*Kyai-kami Ca.	Martaban	19
*Kyangle I.	Pellew Is.	499
Kyl Point	Celebes	425
*Ky-poong	China, S.	315
	L.
† Labanacky	Sumatra, W.	55
Laboang Dapper Pulo,	Banca Str.	125
Laboan Hadjee,	Sumatra, W.	55
Laboan Treeang,	Lombock Strait	520
† Labon Point	Sumatra, W.	56
Labooan I.	Borneo, W.	403
† Laboo Boot	Allass Strait	524
Laboo Padee	Ditto ditto	523, 524
Labyrinth Is.	Andaman Great	35
		Page
† Lacotta Pulo	Sumatra, W.	59
Lacker I.	Timor Sea	544
*Ladda Is. & Peak,	Malacca Strait	184
*Ladrone Grand,	China, S.	308
Ladrone Little	Ditto ditto	308
*Laers Bank	Celebes Sea	459
*Laff-samme Is,	China, S.	311
† Lagan Point	Tsiompa	267
Lagoon Beach	Port Dalrymple	563
*Lagoondy Pulo,	Sunda Strait	103
† Lagootsong Shoal,	Sumatra, W.	56
Laguan I. & Town,	Samar, N.	399
Lahoo Bay	Ceram, S.	552
La Hogue Ca.	France, N.	608
*Lalang Pulo	Sumatra, N.	179
† Lalan Is.	Junkseylon I.	29
Lalary Point	Banca, W.	130
Lalla Rookh's Group,	Torres Str.	587
LallaRookh's Inner Route,	Ditto do.	586
*Lamay I.	Formosa, W.	385
† Lambee I.	Bengal Bay	26
† Lamma I.	China, S.	318
*Lam-ock Is.	Ditto ditto	348
*Lamo I.	Ditto ditto	347
Lamookatan I.	Borneo, W.	404
Lampatuah Pulo,	Sumatra, N.	178
Lampon Bay	Luconia, E.	401
*Lampoon Bay	Sunda Strait	103, 104
Lampoon Peak,	Ditto ditto	102
Lam's Bay	Sumatra, W.	89
† Lam-yet Is.	China, E.	350
Lanawan I.	Sooloo Sea	440
Lancava Pulo	Malacca Strait	184
† Landfall I.	Andaman, N.	32
† Lankeet I. & Flat,	Canton R.	328
Lanksa Bay	Sumatra, N.	177
Lantinga Pulo	China Sea	256
*Lantoa I.	China, S.	313, 327
Lantoa Passage,	Ditto ditto	310, 312
*Lapurip I.	China Sea	379
Larantuca & Gut		533 to 535
Larat I.	Timor Sea	545
Larchin Is.	Siam Gulf	257
*Larg I.	Sumatra, W.	94
† Larkin's Shoal	Natunas	250, 404
Lark's Bay	China, S.	305
Larpent's Bank,	Torres Strait	582
† Lassem Hill & Town,	Java, N.	512
Lassey Pulo	Sumatra, W.	60
Latta I.	Moluccas	548
Laubo Laubo Pulo,	Sumatra, W.	93
*Laughland's Is.,	S. Pacific Ocean	588
† Laurel's Banks,	China Sea	263
*Laurel's Shoal	Macassar Str.	423, 453
*Laut Pulo Great,	Borneo, S.	421
† Laut Pulo Little,	Ditto ditto	420
*Lava I.	Luconia, N.	379
Lava Peak	Sapy Strait	527
† Lawn I.	Gillolo Passage	475
Laye	Sumatra, W.	77
*Layken Point	Celebes, S.	462
Lea-tong Gulf	China, E.	357, 358
Lea-tong S. Point.	Lea-tong Gulf	358
† Leat Pulo	Gaspar Straits	141
† Lebaney Bay & Town,	Celebes, W.	424
Ledges of Rocks,	Singapore Strait	217
† Leegetan Is.	Sooloo Sea	397
Leema Pulo	Sumatra, W.	68
*Leeuwaarden I.,	Ceram, N.	553
*Leeuwaarden Shoal,	Ditto ditto	552
Leffouw Road	Timor, N.	540
Leigh's I.	New Ireland	589
		Page
Lelary I.	Moluccas	549
Lema Channel	China, S.	320, 322
*Lema Is.	Ditto ditto	321
Lenque R.	Malacca Strait	206
Lepa Pulo	Banca, S.	142
*Lerang Point	Java, N.	512
Leron Harbour,	Salibaboo Is.	435
*Lettee I.	Timor Sea	544
*Leu-cung-tow	China, E.	356
Leung-neeb I.	Canton R.	309
*Lewa R.	Borneo, W.	404
Leyden I.	Batavia Road	118
Leyte I.	Philippines	397
† Liant Ca.	Siam Gulf	259
*Lieong-soy Bay,	Hainan	285, 288
† Lieu-chew I.	China, S.	304
*Lieu-chew Is.	Japan Sea	387
† Ligor Bay	Siam Gulf	257
*Lihou's Shoal	Pacific Ocean	578
Lima Is.	Borneo, W.	406
Limbe Str. & I.	Celebes, N.	432
Linago I.	Mindanao, N.	398
*Lincoln I.	China Sea	292
Lingayen Bay & R.,	Luconia, N.	376
*Lingin I.	China Sea	155
Linitan I.	Mindanao, S.	434
*Linting I.	China, S.	312, 317
*Lintin I.	Canton R.	326, 327
Lintin Sand	Ditto ditto	327
Lintin Spitor S.Sa.	Ditto ditto	311, 326
Lintoa High Land,	China, S.	297
*Lisiansky's I.	N. Pacific Ocean	596
*Lissamatula I.	Moluccas	473
Little Condore	China Sea	262
Little Passage	Malacca Strait	183
Lizard Point	England, W.	606, 607
Lobetobie Mount,	Flores I.	529, 534
Lobetobie Strait,	Flores, E.	533
*Loboagee	Allass Strait	522
Lo-chow	China, S.	319, 321
Lodowick Fort,	Java, E.	512
Loewang I.	Timor Sea	544
*Lomblen I.	Ditto ditto	536, 537
*Lombock I.	Java Sea	519 to 524
*Lombock N. Point,	LombocK Str.	520
*Lombock Peak,	Lombock I.	521
Lombock Strait,	Lombock, W.	518 to 521
Long I.	Billiton, W.	142, 151
Long I.	Gillolo Passage	474
Long I.	Java Sea	516
Long I.	Mergui	23
Long I.	New Guinea	495
Long I.	Rhio Strait	157
Long I.,	Singapore Strait	168, 169, 214
Long I.	Sunda Strait	106
Long Low I.	Billiton, S.	151
Long Middle Bank,	Malacca Str.	210
Long Nose	New South Wales	567
*Long Point	Palawan	369
Long Range Point,	St Helena	601
Long Sand	Prince of Wales I.	187
Loo-kaup I.	China, S.	340, 341
Loo-kaup-sye	Ditto ditto	342
*Lookisong I.	Gillolo Passage	474
Loomaut Pulo	Malacca Strait	198
Loomboocan I.	Balabac Straits	393
Loompoor	Sumatra, W.	73
Lord Amherst's I.,	Aracan	8
*Lord Auckland's Is.,	S. Pacific Oc.	574
*Lord Howes I.,	Ditto ditto	575
*Lord North's I.,	N. Pacific Ocean	497
*Louisa Shoal	China Sea	369

[page] 619

		Page
Louisa Shoal	Mindanao, S.	434
Lo-wang I.	China, E.	352
*Low Head	Port Dalrymple	563
Low I.	Bengal Bay	8, 9
Low I.	China Sea	280
Low I.	Gaspar Straits	143
*Low I.	Natunas	249
*Low Pyramidal Rocks,	Ditto	152, 249
Low Rocks	Sapy Strait	526
Loyalty Is.	S. Pacific Ocean	592
† Lozin Pulo	Siam Gulf	257
† Luban I.	China Sea	364, 373, 400
Luban Pulo	Rhio Strait	158
*Lubeck I.	Java Sea	457
*Lucepara I.	Banca Strait	124 to 129
*Lucepara Is.	Banda Sea	556
Lucepara Point,	Sumatra, E.	126
Lucepara Shoals,	Banca Strait	126, 127
Luconia, E,	Philippines	401
Luconia I.	Ditto	373 to 379
Luconia, S.	Ditto	398 to 400
Lueng-Suitow I.,	China	310
Lugue	Luconia, W.	377
Lui-chew fu	China, W.	282, 286
Lutangan I.	Mindanao, S	437
*Lydea's I.	Carolinas	595
Lyee-moon	China, S.	338
Lyly I. & Shoal,	Macassar Road	424
Lynn Shoal	Sunda Strait	123
Lys Shoal	Mergui	23
	M
Maat Suykers Is.,	Va. Diemen's La.	559
Mabag I.	Babuyanes	379
† Maba I. & Vill.,	Gillolo, E.	478
*Mabo Ca.	Battanta I.	485
Macao Road	China S.	324
*Macao Town & Har.,	Ditto ditto	325
*Mac Askills Is.,	Carolinas	595
*Macassar	Celebes, W.	424
Macassar Str.,	Do.do.	420 to 429, 452, 456
Macassar Strait Currents,	Do.	430, 453
Macassar Str.Pass.,	Do.	417, 420, 438
*Macclesfield Bank,	China Sea	293, 294
Macclesfield I, & Pt,	China, E.	353
Macclesfield Rock.	China Sea	271
*Macclesfield Strait,	Banca, E.	140, 153
Macclesfield Strait	Currents	151
Ma-cheung-cock,	Canton R.	306
Mackian I.	Moluccas	548
Mackkareera I.,	China S.	325
Mc'Cluers Inlet,	New Guinea, W.	495
Mc'Pherson's Strait,	Andaman Great	35
*Macquarie Har.,	Van Diemen' La.	559
*Macquaries I.	S. Pacific Ocean	574
Macquarie Port,	New South Wales	586
*Macquaries Tower,	Port Jackson	568
Madagascar Hurricanes,	Indian Oc.	597
*Madjicosemah Is.,	Japan Sea	387
Madoo Pulo	Celebes Sea	531
Madramacan I.,	Mergui R.	24
Madras	Hindoostan, E.	598
*Madora I.	Java, E.	512, 513
*Madura Strait,	Ditto ditto	512
Mady Pulo Great,	Bantam Bay	113, 114
Mady Pulo Little,	Ditto ditto	113
† Magdalens Shoal,	Gaspar Strs.	146, 150
Magna Port	Philippines	400
Mah-wan I.	Canton R.	313
Maignia I.	Cochin China	277
*Majo Pulo	Sumbawa, N.	508, 509
		Page
Makalara I.	Near Siao	433
Malabar C.	Hindoostan, W.	598
*Malacca Fort & Hills.	Malacca Str.	207
Malacca Passage,	Achen Is	44, 48
Malacca Strait	Currents	171, 172
Malacca Strait,	Sumat. N.	44, 169 to 231
Malacca Strait	Tides	201
Malacca Strait	Winds	170, 171
Malapis Is.	Borneo, W.	406
Malay Archipelago,	Malay, E.	253
Malay C.	Malacca Strait	183
Malaya, E.	China Sea	254 to 257
Malahuinasan I.,	Philippines	400
Malampaya Bay,	Palawan. W.	371
Malana I.	Moluccas	555
*Maldemaronda Point,	Azores	605
Maloodoo Bay	Borneo, N.	391
Mal-low chow	China, S.	325
Malora Pulo	Achen Is.	44, 174
Maloza R.	Baseelan I.	442
*Mamalakjee	Celebes Sea	507
Mambahenawan I.,	Borneo, E.	395
† Mamburao Bay,	Mindora, W.	450
*Mamee Chow	China, S	299
Mamee Chow Point,	Ditto ditto	299
† Mampava R. & Point,	Borneo, W.	404
† Manado	Celebes, N.	431, 432
Manalipa I.	Mindanao, S.	439
Manavolka I.	Banda Sea	553
*Mancap Pulo	Borneo, S.	407, 408
† Mancap Shoal,	Ditto ditto	408
Maochow	Hainan I.	286
*Mandalique I.	Java, N.	511
Mandang I.	Near Siao	433
*Mandarin's Cap,	China, S.	300
*Mandhar Ca.	Celebes, W.	424
Mandol Strait	Sumatra C	164
Mandoota R	Sumatra, W.	75
Maneaters I & Shoal.	Java, N.	114, 115
Mangallom I.	Borneo, W.	402
Mangarin Point,	Mindora, W.	450
Mangarin Port,	Ditto ditto	447
Mangeea I.	S. Pacific Ocean	596
Mangerye Strait,	Flores, W.	528
Mangien	Sumatra, W.	55
Mangoak I.	Banguey	392
Mango Bay	Sapy Strait	527
Mangrove Harbour,	Flores, W.	528
† Mangsee Is.	Balabac Straits	393, 394
Mangs Is.	Marian Is.	502
Manilla Bay,	Luconia, W.	359, 364, 374
*Manilla	Ditto ditto	366, 364
Manilla Straits,	Philippines	398
*Manipa I.	Bouro, E.	551
Man-me-chow	China, S.	315
† Manna Point	Sumatra, W.	81
*Manook-manookan I.,	Sooloo Sea	394
*Manouaran Pulo,	Waygeeooe, N.	481
Mansfield I.	Dampiers Strait	486
*Mansfield's Shoal,	Celebes, S.	463
† MassaTeega	Borneo, W.	406
† Mantannane Is.,	Ditto ditto	402
† Maratua I.	Borneo, E.	430
Marawan	Banca, E.	148
Marbaboe	Java, N.	511
Marble Rock	China S.	298
Marboo R.	Malacca Strait	186
Maregolang I.	Moluccas	549
*Margarets I.	Carolinas	595
Maria Ca.	New Zealand	573
*Marian Is.,	N. Pacific Oc.	501, 593, 594
Maria Port	Mindanao, W.	443
		Page
Maricaba I.	Luconia, S.	400
Marinduque I.,	Ditto ditto	400
Marinloc	Luconia, W.	375
Mariveles I. & Bay,	Ditto ditto	364, 374
*Marlborough Fort,	Sumatra, W.	77, 78
*Marlborough Point,	Ditto ditto	92
† Marra Pulo	Ditto ditto	72, 73
† Martaban C. & Town,	Bengal Bay	15, 19
† Martin St. I. & Reef,	Aracan C.	5
*Mary St. I.	Azores	605
Masbate I.	Luconia, S.	400
† Mascall I.	Chittagong	1 to 3
Masi Bay	Mindora, W.	450
Massang Hills & Pt.,	Sumatra, W.	65, 66
Matacote I.	Sapy Strait	526
*Mataha I.	Sooloo Sea	441
Mataran	Lombock, E.	523
*Matelotas Is.	N. Pacific Ocean	499
Matsinglo Point,	Luconia, W.	375
*Mattabella Is.	Banda Sea	553
*Matthews I.	S. Pacific Ocean	593
† Matthew St. I.	Mergui C.	27
*Matthew St. Is.,	Moluccas	471
Mauritius Hurricanes,	Indian Oc.	597
Mautama R.	Martaban	19
† Meangis I.	Mindanao, S.	436
† Meaxima I.	Japan Sea	388
Medow's Port	Andaman Great	34
† Melville Port	Lieu-chew I.	387
*Mendoza's I.	China, E.	342
† Mensular I.	Sumatra, W.	61
Merak Is, & Har,	Sunda Strait	112
Merdoo	Sumatra, N.	175
Mergui Archipelago,	Mergui C.	22 to 28
*Mergni	Bengal Bay	21, 24
*Merierc I.	N Pacific Ocean	497
*Meroe I.	Nicobars	42
Merope's Bay	Formosa	386
† Mew I &Bay	Sunda Strait	109
Mew-stone,	Van Diemen's La.	559, 560
Mey-hou-so	Point China, E.	350
*Meyo I.	Molucca Passage	437
Mi-a-tao Is.	China, E.	355, 358
*Michael St. I. & Town,	Azores	604
*Michael St I. & Sh.	Sooloo Sea	393, 394
*Mid-day Reef	S. Pacific Ocean	576
*Middle Anambas,	China Sea	249
Middle Arm	Van Diemen's La.	564
Middle Brother,	Dryon Straits	161, 162
Middleburgh I.,	Batavia Road	115 to 117
*Middleburgh I.,	New Guinea	494
Middleburgh Shoal,	Dryon Strs.	163, 167
Middle Cape,	Malay C.	255
Middle Channel,	Balabac Straits	393
Middle Channel,	Batavia Road	117
Middle Ground,	Broken Bay	571
Middle Ground,	Pegu R.	16
Middle Ground,	Port Jackson	568, 569
Middle Ground,	Port St. Vincent	591
Middle Ground,	Prince of Wales I.	188
Middle Head	Port Jackson	568
Middle I.	Achen Head	45
Middle I.	Alloo Strait	537
Middle I.	Engano I.	96
Middle I.	Hainan, S.	284, 288
† Middle I.	Mergui C.	28
Middle I.	Bouton Strait	467
Middle I.	Moluccas	472
*Middle I.	Salayer Straits	465
Middle I.	Singapore Strait	217
Middle Is.	Sapy Strait	527
Middle Passage,	Gaspar Straits	150

[page] 620

		Page
Middle Rocks	China. S.	342
Middle Sand	Moluccas	550
Middle Shoal	Port Dalrymple	564
Middle Shoal	Sumatra, W.	80
† Middle Strait	Andaman Great	34, 35
*Middleton's Is. & Reef,	S Pacific Oc.	575
Miguel de Naga St,	Luconia, E.	401
Miguel St.	Philippines	400
Minangas Port,	Luconia, W.	374
Mindanao I.,	Philippines	397, 431 to 442
*Mindanao R. & Town,	Mindanao I.	436
Mindora I.,	Philippines	400, 449, to 451
Mindora Straits,	Mindora, W.	446
*Minerva's Bank,	China Sea	272
Minerva Shoal	Rhio Strait	158
Minstrel's Passage,	Timor Sea	543
*Mintao Pulo	Sumatra, W.	88 to 91
† Minto Rocks	Borneo, W.	406
Mintow & Bank,	Banca, W.	133
† Miou R.	Aracan	6
*Mir's Bay	China, S.	339
Mitre I.	S. Pacific Oc.	593
Moa I.	Timor Sea	544
*Moar Pulo	Gillolo, E.	476
† Moco Moco	Sumatra, W.	75
*Moffat Hill	Canton R.	336, 337
Mogo Pulo	Dryon Strait	167, 168
Mohea Pulo	Malacca Strait	183
Molucca Monsoons,	Moluccas	547
*Molucca Is.	Celebes, E.	548
Molucca Passage,	Ditto do.	452 to 455
Moncur I.	Bass' Strait	565
*Money's I.	China Sea	292
† Mong-chow	Canton R.	306
Mong-chow	China, S.	301
Mongos Mongos,	Luconia, W.	376
Monkey I.	China Sea	229
Monkier I.	Sumatra, W.	56
*Monmouth Group,	Bashee Is.	381, 382
Monnikendam I.,	Batavia Road	119
*Monopin Hill	Banca, N.	125, 133
Montanha I.	China, S.	305
Montaran Is.	Billiton, E.	413, 414
Monthoule I;	Nicobars	43
† Mooarro Pulo	Borneo R.	403
† Mooleegce Is.	Sooloo Sea	395
† Moolenwerfe Shoal,	Java, N.	120
† Moar Mount	Malacca Strait	208
Morcallam	Sumatra, W.	81
*Moresses I.	Borneo, S.	420
Moreton Ca.	New S. Wales	575
*Morty I. & Strait,	Gillolo, W.	437
Mosia Mount	Java, N.	511
*Mosque Point	Aracan R.	6
Mother & Daughter,	Bouro, E.	550
Mother & Daughters,	New Britain	589
Motir I.	Moluccas	548
Motoe Is.	China, S.	313
Motow Fort	Canton R.	307
*Moulin's I.	S. Pacific Ocean	592
Mountain Point,	Azores	604
Mount Direction, Van Diemen's La.		561
Mount Lookout,	China, S.	299
Mozambique Ch.,	Africa, E.	598
† Muckay	Sumatra, W.	55
Mudancoos Is.,	Malacca Strait	198
Mud Flat	Banca Strait	128
Mui-gui	Tsiompa	267
Muncooda Pulo,	Banca, N.	149
Murcielagos Is.,	Mindanao, N.	397
Murray's Is.	Torres Strait	580, 582
† Musa Port	Babuyanes	379
		Page
Muscos Is.	Tavay C.	20
Musquito Pulo,	Sumatra, W.	72
Mynderk Shoal,	Java, N.	116
Mynder's Rocks,	Java, E.	516
Mysole I.	Moluccas	484
*Mysory I.	New Guinea, N.	495
	N
*Naaf R.	Aracan	5
Nai-oojoon I.	Tavay C.	20
*Nam-oa Har. & I.,	China, S.	302
Namo	Ditto ditto	339
Nam-pang I.	Ditto ditto	300
Nancy Pulo	Achen Is.	44
*Nanga-saque	Japan Is.	388
*Nangga Harbour,	Sunda Strait	103
*Nanka Is.	Banca Strait	131
*Nankin	China, E.	354
*Nankin I.	Hainan	289
Napacmao Point,	Luconia, N.	376
† Napakiang Rd. & To,	Lieu-chew I.	387
*Narcondam I.	Bengal Bay	38
Nasomver Droogte,	Java Sea	119
*Naso Point	Panay, W.	444
Nassouwen's Gat,	Cerara, W.	551
Natal	Africa, S.	599
*Natal Bay Hill & To.,	Sumatra, W.	62
*Natunas	China Sea	248 to 250
*Natunas, N.	Ditto ditto	248
*Natunas, S.	Ditto ditto	250
*Nederlandich I.,	Pacific Ocean	596
Needle Rock	Canton R.	310
Needle Rocks	China, S.	317
Needles	Isle of Wight	609
Nee-wok I.	China, S.	301
*Negory Kalam,	Moluccas	549
*Negrais Ca. & I.,	Ava, W.	11 to 13
N. E. I.	Surigari Bay	398
† Negroes I.	Philippines	443
Nest I.	Cochin China	277
New Britain	S. Pacific Ocean	588
*New Caledonia,	Ditto ditto	591
*NewGuinea,	Ditto ditto	493 to 495, 583
New Harbour	Singapore	219
*New Hebrides	S. Pacitic Ocean	590
New Holland,	N., Timor Sea	547
New Ireland	S. Pacific Ocean	588
New I.	Ditto ditto	592
*New I.	Timor Sea	543
New South Wales,	S. Pacific Oc.	566
† Nhiatrang Bay & City,	Cochin China	274
*Niagoni Arroe Is.,	Timor Sea	546
Niamo Pulo	Sumatra, W.	72
*Nicholas St. Poiot,	Java, N.	112
Nicholas St. Shoal,	Manilla Bay	365
*Nicobar Great	Bengal Bay	43
*Nicobar Is.	Ditto ditto	38 to 43
† Nicobar Little	Ditto ditto	42
Nightingale I.	Madura, E.	514
Nila I.	Timor Sea	545
Nine Is.	Canton R.	326
*Nine Pin Rock,	China, S.	338
Ning-po R.	Ditto ditto	353
† Ninth I.	Bass' Strait	565
Noesa Baron	Java, S.	100
*Noesa Comba	Celebes Sea	458
Noesa Laut	Ceram, S.	552
*Noesa Seras	Celebes Sea	423
† Noessaniva Point,	Amboina I.	553
Noko I.	Pulo Nyas	87
*Nomo Ca.	Japan Is.	388
		Page
*Noncowry I. & Harbour,	Nicobars	40
Norfolk Bay	Van Diemen's La.	561
† Norfolk I.	S. Pacific Ocean	593
† Norman's Point,	Chittagong R.	3
*North Anambas,	China Sea	247
*North Bashecs	China Sea	382
North Bay	Van Diemen's La.	561
North Black Rock,	St. Helena I.	601
North Breakers,	Bencoolen	78
North Cape	Malay, E.	255
North Channel,	Singapore Strait	226
North I.	Bouton Strait	467
North I.	Engano	96
North I.	Gaspar Straits	142
North I.	Pantar Strait	537
North I.	Salayer Straits	465
*North I.	Sunda Strait	121
† North Ledge	Tavay, E.	20
North Reach	Callam Strait	198
*North Rock	Calamianes	448
North Rock	Malacea Strait	191
North Rock	Tavay C.	20
*North Sands,	Malacca Shrait	19l to 193
*North Shoal	Paracels	291
Northumberland Is.,	New S.Wales	586
Northumberland Sh.,	Mindanao, S.	435
Northumberland Str.,	Calami	448 to 451
*North Watcher,	Sunda Strait	120
† Norway Is.	Tonking Gulf	283
*Now-chow	China, S.	296
Nun Rock	Manilla Bay	364
Nuoc-ngol Point,	Cochin China	279
† N. W. I.	Natunas	248
*N. W. I.	Yowl Is.	483
*N. W. Rock	Calamianes	449
*Nyas Pulo	Sumatra, W.	60, 88
	O
*Observation Bank,	Paracels	293
Obtuse Cone	Mindanao, S.	434
Oby Major I.	Moluccas	473
*Oby Pulo	China Sea	260
Oby Pulo False,	Ditto ditto	260
Occuse	Timor, N.	540
*Ock-sou I.	China E.	356
*Offak Harbour,	Waygeeooe, N.	481
*Oie-kai-ou	Harbour, China, E.	356
† Old Lamata	Ceram, N,	552
*Ombay I.	Timor Sea	537 to 541
Ombay Passage,	Ditto do.	456, 541
Omonkon I.	Mindanao, N.	398
*Onascuse I.	Pacific Ocean	595
Ong-ro Harbour,	Cochin China	276
Onkona Point	Celebes, W.	425
Onrust I.	Batavia Rd.	116 to 119
Onrust Knowl	Onrust I.	116
*Ontario's Shoal,	Borneo, W.	410
Ontong Java Pt & Reef,	Java, N.	116
Oobeean I.	Sooloo Sea	395
Oogooron Point,	Sunda Strait	102
*Oojong Carrang,	Sumdtra, W.	77
Oojong Lalloo,	Ditto ditto	64
† Oojong Massang.	Ditto ditto	65
Oojong Rajah	Ditto ditto	59
Oojong Seecarboa.	Ditto ditto	65
Oolar Pulo	Ditto ditto	72
Oomowoomang I.	Sunda Strait	103
† Ooloogan Bay	Palawan, W.	371
Oosadda I.	Sooloo Sea	395
Oosookan I.	Borneo, W.	402
Oo-tong	China S.	346

[page] 621

		Page
*Ophir Mount	Sumatra. W.	65
*Orange Fort	Ternate I.	548
Orange I.	Bashees	382
Orange I.	Sumatra. W.	74
Ordel I.	Gillolo. E.	476
Oriatung Pagoda,	Aracan R.	6
*Orkney South Is.,	Southern Ocean	574
Ormond's Reef,	Torres Strait	581
*Ormsbee's Shoal,	Moluccas	479
*Ormsbus Peak,	Japan Sea	390
Orphan Mountain,	Sumatra, N.	47
Orpheus' Bank,	Banda Is.	555
Orr Pulo	Gillolo, E.	477
Ospray Reef	Aracan	9
*Ossa Bay	Gillolo, E.	477
*Osterly's N.Shoal,	Billiton, E.	413
Otta Pulo	Gillolo, E.	478
Otway Ca.	Bass' Strain	565
Ou-cheun	China, S.	297
Ou-chow	Ditto ditto	330
Oujong Bablai	Sumatra, N.	180
*Oujong Bantan,	Ditto ditto	180
Oujong Byan	Ditto ditto	177
Oujong Camarang,	Sumatra, W.	56
Oujong Lanhat-tuah,	Ditto, N.	178
Oujong Liang	Ditto ditto	180
Oujong Perbabean,	Ditto ditto	180
Oujong Quala Lanska,	Ditto do.	177
Oujong Rajah	Ditto ditto	175
Oujong Tannang,	Ditto ditto	178
Ou-su I.	Amoy Harbour	349
Outah I.	Gillolo Passage	479
Outer Channel,	Batavia Road	115
Outer Cove,	Van Diemen's La.	563
Outer Passage,	China Sea	237, 363
Outer Passage,	Sumatra, W.	70
Outer Water I.,	Malacca Strait	208
Owen's Channel,	Sunda Strait	103
Owers	British Channel	609
*Oyster Bay & I.,	Van Diemen's La.	562
Oyster Rock	Aracan C.	6
	P
Pacific Ocean	Currents	480
Pacific Ocean	Directions	390
Pacific Ocean	New Guinea, E.	493
Pacific Ocean	Winds	503
Padang Cove	Lombock Strait	520
*Padang Is. & Head,	Sumatra, W.	68
Padang Pulo	Sumatra, N.	180
Padaran Ba. & Har.,	Cochin China	272
*Padaran Ca.	Cochin China	267
† Padewawy Bay,	Sandalwood I.	529
Padron Ca.	Africa, S.	598
*Pagoda Ca.	Cochin China	276
† Pagoda Point	Ava C.	11
† Pahang R. & Point,	Malay, E.	255
*Pajaros I.	Marian Is.	502
Pak-leak-low I.	China, S.	316
Pak-ting	Canton R.	306
Palaba	Allass Strait	523
Pala I.	Celebes, N.	433
Palambam R. & T.,	Sumatra, E.	132
Palaon Bay	Mindora, W.	450
Palapa Port	Philippines	399
Palaubi I.	Luconia, N.	379
*Palawan I. & Sh.,	China Sea	366 to 373
Palawan Passage,	Do.do.	239 to 242, 372
Palleeangan I.,	Sooloo Sea	395
Palmer's I.	Timor Sea	543
Palmer's Shoal,	Banca, E.	148
		Page
Palos Bay	Celebes, W.	425
Pamalang Point,	Java, N.	511
*Pamanoekan Point,	Java, N.	509
*Pamaroong I.	Borneo, E.	418
Pamooja Pulo	Banca, N.	149
Pampandoyen Mount.,	Palawan I.	371
Panarukan Point.	Java, E.	518
*Panay I.	Philippines	444
Pancal Pulo	Sumatra, W.	64
Pandan Point	Mindora, W.	448
Pandan Pulo	Dryon Straits	164
*Pandan Pulo	Malacca Strait	182
Pandookan I.,	Sooloo Sea	395
*Pandora's Entrance,	Torres Strait	580
Pandora's Reefs,	S. Pacific Ocean	578
Panella I.	Mergui C.	23
Pangasani I.	Bouton Strait	467
Pangasinan Bay,	Luconia, W.	376
Pangel Pulo	Malacca Strait	186
*Pangootaran I.,	Sooloo Sea	395
Pangoriang	Java, N.	113
Panjang I.	Celebes Sea	531
† Panjang Pulo	Ayer Bongy Bay	64
† Panjang Pulo	Banca, E.	147
Panjang Pulo	Bantam Bay	114
*Panjang Pulo	China Sea	156
Panjang Pulo	Junkseylon	30
† Panjang Pulo	Siam Gulf	259
Panjang Pulo	TappanooIy Bay	60
Panjang Reef	Malacca Road	206
Panjore Pulo	Sumatra, N.	164
*Panka Point	Java, N.	512
Pan-lung-shce	Macao	325
Panneu Pulo	Sumatra, W.	74
Pnnoan I. & Strait,	Philippines	397
*Pantar I. & Strait,	Timor Sea	537
Pan Shoal	Rhio Strait	158
Panuctan I.	Babuyanes	380
*Panumbangan Pulo,	Borneo, W.	405
Papan Channel,	Ditto ditto	406
† Papan Pulo	Ditto ditto	406
† Papra Strait	Mergui, S.	28
*Paracels	China Sea	291 to 293
† Paraquas	Palawan, W.	372
*Parcelar Hill	Malacca Strait	196
† Parcelar Point,	Ditto do.	200, 205
† Parlis R.	Ditto ditto	183
Parmasang Hill,	Banca I.	126 to 129
Parmasang Point,	Ditto	131
*Parry's I.	Pacific Ocean	594
† Passage I.	Andamans	36
Passage I.	Aracan R.	6
Passage I.	Balabac Str.	393
*Passage I.	China, S.	302
Passage I.	Kangelang, E.	515
Passage I.	Mindanao, N.	398
Passage Is.	Borneo, W.	406
Passage Is.	Dryon Straits	162
Passage Is.	Sangir	433
† Passage I.	Sumatra, W.	57
Passamane Bay,	Ditto ditto	65
Passangan R. & P.,	Sumatra, N.	175
Passao Point	China, S.	346
Passeleurang Reef,	Flores, N.	533
Passenburgh I.,	Nangasaque Har.	389
Passier Grove	Sumatra, N.	176
Passier Lama,	Borneo, E.	429
Passior Pulo	Sumatra, W.	68
† Passier R. & Town,	Borneo, E.	418
Passig I.	Celebes, N.	432
*Passoo Keah I.,	Paracels	293
Passurwang	Java, E.	518
		Page
*Pata-he-cock I..	China, E.	351
Pata I.	Sooloo Sea	396
† Patani Ca. & Bay,	Siam Gulf	257
Pata Point	Luconia, W.	378
*Patappan Pulo,	Sunda Strait	103
† Pat-cha-san I.	China, S.	354
*Patches of Coral,	China Sea	293
*Pat-chow	Japan Sea	387
† Patch Sand	Chittagong C.	2
*Pater Nosters Great,	Celebes Sea	521
*Pater Nosters Little,	Macas. Str.	428
Pathang	Sumatra, W.	82
*Patientia Strait,	Moluccas	453
*Pattles I.	Paracels	292
Pauk-pyah I..	China, S.	297
Pauk-pyah	Ditto ditto	344
Paul's St. Mountains,	Banca I	125
Payers	Malacca Strait	183
Peaked Hill	Celebes, S.	463
† Peaked I.	Anambas	247
† Peaked I.	Natunas	248
Peaked Mount,	Australia, E.	562
*Pearl & Hermes Reef,	N. Pacific Oc.	596
Pearl I.	Tonking Gulf	282
Pedada Bay	Sunda Strait	103
Pedir C.	Sumatra, N.	174
*Pedir Point & Town.	Ditto ditto	175
*Pedro Branco	China, S.	322
*Pedro Branco	Singapore Str.	223
Pedro Branco	Van Diemen's La.	560
Pedro-mea	Macao	325
Pedro Point	Sumatra, N.	44
Peelas I.	Sooloo Sea	441
Peejow	Allass Strait	523
*Pegu Coast & R.,	Bengal Bay	13
*Pehoe Is.	Formosa Strait	386
*Pei-ho	Pekin Gulf	356
*Pellew Is.	N. Pacific Ocean	498
Peng-chow	China, S.	339
*Penguin I.	Van Diemen's La.	561
Penir Pulo	Sumatra, W.	89
Penoo	Ditto ditto	81
Pepery Road	Siam Gulf	258
Pepper Bay	Java, N.	110
Perah Bank	Malacca Strait	189
Perah C. & River,	Ditto ditto	173
*Pera Pulo	Ditto ditto	185
† Perforated I.	Bengal Bay	28
Perforated Rock,	Cochin China	277
Pergany Pulo	Sumatra, W.	72
Persaim R.	Ava C.	11
Persian Gulf	Arabia, E.	598
*Pescadore Is.	China Sea	386
*Pesqueira Alto Point,	Azores	603
*Peter's I.	Pacific Ocean	596
Peter's St. I.	Hainan	288
Petunga Point	Chittagong R	3
Peurcos	Manilla Bay	364
Phanran Bay & Har.,	Cochin China	272
Phanry Bay & R.,	Tsiompa	267
Philippine Is.	Easteru Sea	438
Phillip's Channel,	Dryon Str.	166 to 169
Phipp's I.	Mergui C.	27
Phoonga R.	Queda C.	183
Phuiay Bay	Tsiompa	267
† Phuyen Bay & Har.,	Cochin China	277
Piapis Harbour,	Waygeeooec, N.	480
Pico de Ginetes,	Azores	605
* Pico I.	Ditto	603
*Pierre St. I.	Borneo, W.	250
† Pigeon House	New S. Wales	567
† Pigeon I.	Dampier's Str.	485

[page] 622

		Page
Pigeon I.	Moluccas	555
*Pigot Point	Waygeeooe, E.	489
Pilgrims	Malacca Strait	183
† Pillar Ca.	Van Diemen's La.	561
Pillilew I.	N. Pacific Occan	498
Pilot Cottah Creek,	Chittagong C.	2
*Pines I.	S. Pacific Ocean	591
† Pine Tree I.	Mergui C.	27
Ping-hoi	China, S.	342
† Pinnaele Rock,	Calamianes	449
*Pinnunko I.	Token Besseys	470
Pi-pa-chow	China, S.	303
Pisang Banks	Malacca Strait	210
Pisang Pulo	Banda Is.	555
† Pisang Pulo	China Sea	252
*Pisang Pulo	Gillolo Passage	475
Pisang Pulo Kecheel,	Sumatra, W.	69
*Pisang Pulo	Malacca Str.	209
Pisang Pulo	near Padang	69
*Pisang Pulo	Sumatra, W.	82
Pio Quinto (San) Port,	Babuyan Is.	380
*Pitt Mount	Norfolk I.	593
Pitt's Passage,	Moluccas	455 to 484
Pitt's Str.,	NewGuin., W.	456 to 493
Pitt's Strait	Solomon Is.	592
Pitt Water	Broken Bay	570
Plantain I.	Mergui	23
Playa Honda	Luconia, W.	375
*Pleasant I.	Pacific Ocean	594
Ploughman I.	China, E.	351
† Poggy, N.	Sumatra, W.	93
*Poggy, S.	Ditto ditto	94
Polley	Ditto ditto	77
Pollock Cove	Mindanao I.	436
† Polo I.	Luconia, E.	401
*Ponchang Cacheel,	Tappanooly Bay	60
Ponchang Gadang,	Ditto ditto	61
*Pondy I.	Madura Bay	513
Pong-lieu Town,	Formosa C.	385
† Pongoh Pulo	Gaspar Straits	141
Ponigh Pulo	Banca, E.	149
† Ponkan R.	Formosa, W.	385
† Ponjoon Pulo	Banca, E.	148
Pontangh Point,	Bantam Bay	114
Pontangh Pulo	Ditto ditto	113
*Pontiana R.	Borneo, W.	404
Poochoon I.	Tavay C.	20
† Poogong Mount& Pt.,	Sumatra, W.	82
Pooloo Bay	Ditto ditto	79
Pooloogywon I.,	MartabanR.	19
Poonooboo Pulo,	Sumatra, E.	156
Poonyabang	Banca, W.	134
Pootoy I.	China, S.	320
*Popo Pulo	Pitt's Passage	484
† Porian I. & Reef,	Ava C.	11
Porian Point	Ava R.	11
Portland Bill & Race,	Engla., S.	607to609
† Portlock's Reef,	Torres Strait	580
*Portland Ca.,	Van Diemen's La.	562
Porto Praya Bay,	Azores	604
Portuguese Bay,	Amboina	553
Possession I.	Torres Strait	584
Post Horse	Celebes Sea	531
*Postillions	Ditto do.	458, 521
Potbakers I.	Moluccas	548
† Potoe I.	China, S.	309
† Potol Point	Panay, W.	445
Potters I.	Moluccas	549
*Pratas Shoal & I.,	China Sea	295, 322
*Prauhilah Point,	Sumatra, N.	177
Praya Sand & R.,	Prince of Wales I.	188
*Predpriatije I.	Pacific Ocean	596
		Page
*Preparis I. & Reef,	Bengal Bay	30
Preservation I.	Bass' Strait	565
† Priaman Is. & R.,	Sumatra, W.	67
*Price Cape	Andaman, N.	32
Prince's I.	Dryon Straits	162
*Princes I.	Sunda Strait	108
*Prince of Wales Bank,	China Sea	368
*Prince of Wales I.	Malacca Str.	185 to 188
*Prince of Wa. Group,	Torres Str.	581
Princess Char Bay,	New South Wa.	586
Prince's Strait	Java Head	109
† Pring	Sumatra, W.	81
† Printian Pulo	Siam Gulf	256
Prosperous Bay,	St. Helena	601
Proute Pulo	Banca, N.	149
*Providence Is.	Pacific Ocean	495
*Pruysen's Droogte,	Java Sea	120
Psyche's Channel,	Mindanao, N.	398
Pulanguiain	Luconia, W.	375
Punyosoo Pulo,	Banca, N.	149
Purmerant Reef & I.,	Batavia Road	117
Pyramid	Cheduba	9
† Pyramid I.	Cochin China	275
Pyramid Peak	Bashee Is.	382
Pyramid Point	China, S.	343
*Pyramid Rock	Paracels	292
	Q
*Quala Bubon	Sumatra, N.	178
Qualla	Sumatra, W.	53
Qualla Batoo	Ditto ditto	55
Quan-ngai R.	Cochin China	280
† Queda	Malacca Str.	30, 186
*Queen Char. Fore.,	New Caledonia	592
*Queen's Mountain,	Sumatra, N.	47
*Quekmi Ca. & Pagoda,	Martaban	19
Quemoy	China, E.	349
*Que-sau Is.	Ditto ditto	351
Quinalazag I.	Philippines	401
Quinga-chin	China, E.	348
QuinhoneCity&H.,	Cochin Ch.	278
*Quiniluban I.	Mindora Sea	445
Qui-quick Port	Cochin China	280
Quoin	Borneo, W.	410
Quoin	China, S.	301
Quoin Hill	Java, N.	512
† Quoin Hill	Natuna Great	248
† Quoin I.	Nicobars	39
Quoin	Sangir C.	433
	R
Rabbit I.	Sangir	434
Rabbit	Singapore Strait	216
Racatt Point & Sh.,	Sumatra.W.	63
Race of Alderney,	England, S.	608
Race of Negrais,	Bengal Bay	13
Race of Portland, England, S.		608
*Rachado Ca.	Malacca Strait	204
*Rackit Pulo	Java, N.	456
*Ragged I.	China Sea	157
Ragged Is.	Andaman Great	33
*Ragged Is.	Palawan, N.	372
Ragged Point & Sh.,	Borneo, E.	427
*Rajah Bassa,	Sunda Strait	103, 139
*Rajah Pulo	Junkseylon	29
*Rambang	Java, N.	512
*Ram Head	New South Wales	566
Ramio Pulo	Malacca Strait	188
Ramoo Creek	Chittagong C.	1
Ramrie I.&Har.,	Aracan C.	7 to 9
		Page
Ranger's Ledge,	Andaman, N.	33
*Rangoon	Pegu R.	16
*Rangoon R.	Pegu C.	44 to 19
Rantow Pulo	Sumatra, N.	181
† Rat I.	Sumatra, W.	77
Rawak Palo&Har.,	Waygeeooe, N.	481
*Reccan R.	Sumatra, N.	179
*Recherche Port,	Van Diemen's La.	560
† Redang Is.	Siam Gulf	256
Red Cliffs	Singapore I.	219
† Red Crab I.	Chittagong C.	1
Red I.	Bouro Bay	550
Red I.	Dryon Straits	163, 167
Red I.	Malacca Road	206
Red I.	Singapore Str.	168, 214
*Red Point	New South Wales	567
Red Sea	Arabia, W.	598
Reef I.	Andaman Great	32
Reef I.	Sumatra, E.	160
Reef I.	Tavay R.	20
Reeburgh Fort	Moluccas	548
Rees Bay	Sapy Strait	527
Refreshment Head,	Sunda Strait	103
*Refuge Port	Borneo Coral Isles	97
Regewin I.	Pitt's Strait	491
† Reid's Rocks	Bass Strait	564
*Reirson's I.	Pacific Ocean	596
*Rendezvous I.	Borneo, S.	407
Renyang Pulo	Sunda Strait	107
Research Strait,	Aracan R.	6
Revenge's Strait,	New Gui., W.	456
† Rhio & Strait	Bintang, W.	157 to 159
† Rhio Pulo	Sumatra, W.	53
Rhun Pulo	Banda Is.	556
Ridge Shoal	British Chau.	608. 610
Rijutan I.	Babuyanes	379
Riow I.	Moluccas	437
Risdon Cove	Van Diemen's La.	561
*Rivers Ca.	Celebes, N.	426
Roang Is.	Ditto ditto	432
Robbin's I.	Port St. Vincent	591
*Roberts I.	Paracels	292
† Rockbo R.	Tonking Gulf	282
Rocky Ca.	Van Diemen's La.	562
† Rocky I.	China Sea	246
Rocky I.	Cochin China	280
*Rocky I.	Gillolo Passage	476
*Rocky I.	Paracels	292
Rocky Is.	Allass Strait	522
Rocky Point Bay,	Aracan C.	7
Rocky Point	Banca, E.	142
Rocky Point	Hainan	284
Rocky Point	New South Wales	567
*Rocky Point	Sumbawa, N.	525
Roderigue I.	Indian Ocean	597
Rodondo	Bass Strait	565
Rodong Pulo	China Sea	157
Roebang	Java, N.	511
*Roe's Bank	Bengal Bay	27
† Roma I.	Timor Sea	538
† Romania Is.&Point,	Singapore Str.	221
Romania Reef	Ditto ditto	222
*Rondo Pulo	Achen Is	44
Roosa Pulo	Sumatra, W.	52
Roosoocan Is.	Borneo Road	403
Rosingeyn I.	Banda Is.	556
Ross I.	Andamans	34
Ross I.	Borneo Coral Is.	97
Ross R.	Borneo, S.	416
Rotterdam I.	BataviaRoad	117
Rotta	Malacca Strait	184
*Rotti I.	Timor Sea	542

[page] 623

		Page
Roundabout I.	China, E.	353
Round Brother,	Dryon Straits	161
Round Harbour,	Mysole, N.	484
*Round I.	Andamans	36
Round I.	Cheduba	7, 9
Round I.	China, S.	301
Round I.	Namoa Har.	302
Round I.	Port St. Vincent	591
Round I.	Singapore Str.	168
*Roupat Pulo	Sumatra, N.	180
Rouquit Pulo	Ditto ditto	178
*Royal Bishops Bank,	China Sea	263
Royal Bishops Shoal,	Sumatra, W	62
*Royal Captains Shoal,	China Sea	371
*Royal Charlotte Shoal,	Ditto do.	369
† Royal George Shoal.	Macassar Str.	421
Royal Sovereigns Shoal,	Brit.Chan.	609
*Roxburgh I.	Pacific Ocean	596
Ruba Point	Azores	603
Rugged Point	Sumbawa, N.	525
† Ruib I.	Waygeeooe, W.	479
*Rusa Linguete,	Flores, N.	532
*Rusa Raji	Ditto ditto	532
Rossel's I.	Tavay C.	27
† Rutland I.	Andaman Great	35
RynlandShoal	Batavia Road	117
	S
Saba Bay	Savu I.	543
Sabadda Pulo	Sumatra, W.	73
Sablat	Ditto ditto	76
Sabon Hill	Sabon I.	164
Sabon I. & Strait,	Sumatra, E.	164
Sabtang I.	Bashees	382
Saddle I.	Anambas	247
Saddle I.	Aracan	7
† Saddle I.	China Sea	246
Saddle I.	Flores, W.	528
Saddle I.	Gaspar Straits	142
*Saddle I.	Hainan	289
*Saddle I.	Natunas	248
Saddle I.	Near Bintang	157
Saddle I.	Sumatra, W.	52
† Saddle Mountain,	Andaman Great	33
Saddle Point	St. Helena	601
*Sallanaf I.	Celebes Sea	459
Sago Pulo	Sumatra, W.	58
Sagor Sand	Hoogly R.	4
Sahul Banks	Timor Sea	539
*Sai-gon R. & City,	Cambodia	264
*Sail Rock	Hainan	289
Sail Rock	Mindora Strait	449
Salanama Pulo,	Malacca Strait	182
*Salang I.	Bengal Bay	29
*Salangore	Malacca Strait	197
*Salatan Point	Borneo, S.	416
Salat Padang	Sumatra, N.	180
Salat Ringit	Ditto ditto	181
Salawatty I.	New Guinea, W.	485
*Salayer I. & Straits,	Celebes, S.	465
Saleyra Pulo & Bay,	Java, N.	112
*Salibaboo Is.	Mindanao, S.	435
Salingsingan I.,	Balabac Straits	393
Sallee Strait	Sumbawa, N.	525
Salleeolakit I.	Sooloo Sea	438
Salomague Bay & Gap,	Luconia, W.	377
Saloomale	Sumatra, W.	81
Salsee R.	Sumatra, E.	132
Salt R.	Ditto ditto	132
Sama Bay & Town,	Hainan, S.	284
Samanap	Madura, E.	514
Samanky Pulo,	Sumatra, W.	74
		Page
Samarang & Bay,	Java, N.	511
*Samar I.	Philippines	399
*Sambas R.	Borneo, W.	404
Sambat Bay & R.,	Sumatra, W.	82
Sambelangan	Ditto N.	175
*Sambilangs	Malacca Strait	189
*Samboangan	Mindanao	440
Sam-chow	China, S.	305
Sara-chow-tong,	Ditto ditto	304
Sam-cock I.	Canton R.	310
Sam-cock	China, S.	305
Sam-coke I.	Ditto ditto	343
Sam-moon Is.	Ditto ditto	317
Sampan Chow	Canton R.	329
Sancori Pulo	Siam Gulf	258
† Sandakan Bay,	Borneo, E.	395
*Sandalwood I.,	Timor Sea	529
† Sandana Ca. & Mount,	Java, E.	516
*Sandhuys Shoals,	Sambawa, N.	508
† Sandoway Road & Town,	Aracan	9
Sandwich Ca.	New South Wales	586
Sandwich Land,	Southern Ocean	572
Sandy Bay	St. Helena	601
*Sandy Ca.	New South Wales	575
Sandy I. & Point,	Ava C.	11
Sandy I.	Cochin China	281
Sandy I.	Engano I.	96
Sandy I.	Gaspar Straits	142
Sandy I.	Sumatra, W.	74
Sandy I.	Timor, W.	541
Sandy Point	Hainan, S.	284
Sandy Point	New South Wales	586
Sandy Point	Singapore I.	219
† Sangboys Is.	Sooloo Sea	442
Sangeegee	Lombock Strait	519
*Sangir	Mindanao, S.	433
*San-ho Ca.	Cochin China	279
*San-luen R.	Martaban	19
San Pio QuintoI.& Pt.,	Babuyanes Is.	380
Santa Cruz	Azores	603
Santa Cruz	Luconia, W.	375
*Santa Cruz I.	Pacific Ocean	590
Santa Cruz Is.	Mindanao, S.	440
Santa Cruz Point,	Mindora, W.	450
Santa Isabel	Solomon Is.	592
Santiago Point,	Luconia, S.	400
San Vizente Port,	Ditto N.	379
Saparooa	Moluccas	555
*Sapata Pulo	China Sea	270
Sapy Bay & Town,	Sumbawa, E.	526
Sapy Strait,	Ditto ditto	507 to 528
Saradong Pulo,	Sunda Strait	103
Sarah Galley I.,	China, E.	352
Sarah's Bosom,	Lord Auckland's Is.	574
Sarasat Pulo	Sunda Strait	103
Satalow	Allass Strait	523
Sato Pulo	Sumatra, W.	68
Savages	Aracan R.	6
*Savu I.	Timor Sea	543
*Sawa Bay & Town,	Ceram, N.	552
Sawang	Sumatra, N.	175
† Saw-chow	Canton R.	313
Saw-lowang Bay,	Ditto ditto	313
Sawshee Hill	Ditto ditto	332
Saypan I.	Marian Is.	501
Saytan Pulo & Harb,	Sumatra, W.	73
*Scarborough Shoal,	China Sea	294
Schiedam I.	Batavia Road	116
Schiedam Is.	Celebes Sea	507
*Schiedam Shoal,	Ditto ditto	530
Schilders Shoal,	Lombock, N.	520
Schoretens I.	Van Diemen's La.	495
		Page
*Scilly Is.	British Chan.	605 to 609
Scotch Bonnet	Timor Sea	543
† Scott's I.	Borneo Coral Is.	97
*Sea Flower's Channel,	Sumatra, W.	91
Sabadies	Ditto ditto	57
*Sea Horse Bank,	China Sea	372
*Se Beeroo I.&Chan.,	Sumatra, W.	90to92
† Sebooka Pulo	Sunda Strait	107
Secke I.	Cochin China	275
*Se Cockup R. & Strait,	Sumatra, W.	93
† Second Bar	Canton R.	333 to 335
† Second Point	Banca Strait	130
† Second Point	Sunda Strait	110
Second Reach	Callam Strait	199
Sccooniet Point,	Sumatra, W.	82
Sedang Bay	Borneo, W.	403
*Sedary Point & Shoal,	Java, N.	509
*Seeal Point	Ceram, W.	552
Seeroodoot Pulo,	Sumatra, W.	61
Seery Pulo	Borneo, W.	406
*Seesecran Port,	Luconia, E.	401
Seetacoon Hill,	Chittagong C.	3
Segar	Allass Strait	522
Se Gere Pulo	Sumatra, W.	92
Seirombo R & Bay,	Ditto ditto	87
Se Labba Bay	Ditto ditto	92
Se Laubo Laubo,	Ditto ditto	93
Se Leaga I. & Bay,	Ditto ditto	59
Selema	Ceram, N.	552
*Selonda I.	Sumbawa, N.	508, 525
Semanko Bay & Peak,	Sumatra, S.	102
Semao I. & Strait,	Timor, W.	541 to 543
Senappoo Pulo,	Sumatra, N.	181
Senaro Pulo	Sumatra, W.	72
Se Ooban Bay	Ditto ditto	92
*Se Pora I.	Ditto ditto	22
*Serangani Is. & Point,	Mindanao, S.	434
Serasso Pulo	Sumatra, W.	93
Serbette I.	Flores Strait	535
Seriguy I.	Sunda Strait	110
*Scroa I.	Timor Sea	545
Sermatta I.	Ditto ditto	544
Serwatty I.	Ditto ditto	544
Seronda Pulo	Sumatra, W.	72
Sesson Pulo	Malacca Strait	186
*Seven Is.	Banca, N.	154
† Seven Is.	Macassar Strait	426
† Severn's Shoal	Banca, E.	147
*Seyer Is.	Bengal Bay	29
Sey-ho Point	China, S.	297
Shaftsbury Reef,	Sumatra, W.	62
Shahbunder Shoah,	Sumatra, E.	122
Shakbroage Hill,	Chittagong	3
Shala I	Cochin China	275
Sha-long-tow	China, S.	345
*Sha-loo-poo-tien Is.,	Pekin Gulf	355
Shambles	British Channel	608
† Shanpee Is.	Gillolo, E.	476
*Shan-tung Prom.,	China, E.	354
† Shapooree I.	Aracan	5
† Sharvogels Is.	Billiton, E.	413
Shelter I.	China Sea	254
*Shetland South,	Southern Oc.	572to574
Shittoe Bay & Po.,	China, S.	304
Shoal Ca.	Torres Strait	587
Shoal Point	Derwent R.	561
*Shoal Point	Macassar Strait	426
*Shoals	Ditto ditto	427
† Shoal Water I., Java Sea		143
*Shoe I.	Billiton, S.	151
Shoe I.	Waygeeooe, N.	481
Shore Rock	St. Helena	60l

[page] 624

		Page
Siak R. & Town,	Sumatra, E.	164, 182
SiamGolf	China Sca	257
*Siam R. & Bar	Siam Gulf	258
*Siao I.	Celebes, N.	432
*Siaton Point	Negroes I.	443
Sibago I.	Baseelan Strait	439
*Sibbald's Bank,	Celebes Sea	458
Siddo Harb. & Point,	Sumatra, W.	52
Sidmoath Rock,	Van Diemen's La.	560
*Sidney Cove & Tow n,	Port Jackson	569
*Sidney Shoal	S. Pacific Ocean	589
Sig-boye I.	Sooloo Sea	397
Siggen Point	Sumatra, W.	83
Signal I.	Singapore	216
† Silangin Bay	Luconia, W.	374
Silino I.	Mindanao, N.	397
Sillaloo Rock	Sumatra, W.	83
Sillebar R.	Ditto ditto	79
Silorongang	Pulo Nyas	87
Simbang Pulo	Banca, N.	149
Simirara Is.	Mindora, S.	446
Sinay I.	Lncouia, W.	377
Singapore I & Str.,	Malaya, E.	214to230
Singapore Old Str.,	Johore	216
Singapore Town & Road		218
Sindangan Bay,	Mindanao, W.	443
*Single I.	China, S.	339
Sing-shee-moon,	Ditto ditto	320
† Sinkel R.	Sumatra, W.	58
Sinkep Pulo	Sumatra, E.	165
Sintodo I.	Sapy Strait	526
Sipaca Point	Mindanao, N.	397
Sipsipa I.	Waygecooe, N.	481
*Sir James Saumarez Shoal,	Pac.Oc.	576
*Sirian River	Pegu C	14
*Sisters	Andamans	36
*Sisters	Bass Strait	565
† Sisters Peak	Celebes, N.	432
Sitoe Ca.	Sumatra, W.	57
Sittang R.	Martaban	15
Sizan Point	Malacca Strait	209
Skelton's I.	Greyhounds Str.	472
† Slackoo Road	Borneo, W.	404
*Sliar Pulo	Sumatra, E.	156
Slipper I.	Bengal Bay	31
Slipper I.	Malacca Strait	183
Small Bar	Canton R.	331
Small Black Rock,	China S.	317
Small Green I.,	Engano I.	95
† Snares Is.	New Zealand, S.	574
Snug Cove	New South Wales	566
Sokum Pulo	Sumatra, W.	60
† Sojoton Point	Negroes I.	443
Solander Point,	New South Wales	567
*Solitary Is.	Ditto ditto	575
Soloan I.	Mindanao, N.	398
*Solombo Great,	Java Sea	457
Solombo Little,	Ditto ditto	457
*Solomon Is.,	S. Pacific Ocean	590
Solon Solon Bay,	Luconia, W.	376
Solor I. & Strait,	Timor Sea	533
*Sombreiro Chan.,	Nicobars	42
† Sombrero Rock,	Philippines	445
Songy Booloo	Banca, N.	149
Songy Lambo Rock,	Sumatra, W.	80
Songy Lamo Point,	Ditto ditto	77
Songy Lampoon,	Java, N.	116
† Songy Leat Bay,	Banca, E.	148
*Song-yue Point,	China, S.	298
*Sonrol I.	N. Pacific Ocean	498
*Sooloo I.	Sooloo Sea	396, 438
Soon gey Peenang Bay,	Sumalra, W.	73
		Page
Soongey Peesang Bay,	Sumatra, W.	73
Soon-koo I.	China, S.	321
*Soosoo Bay & Town,	Sumatra, W.	54
Sootoo Pulo	Rhio Strait	157
Sorsogon Harbour,	Luconia, S.	400
Soudeeang	Allass Strait	523
Sound I.	Andaman Great	33
*Sourabaya	Java, E.	512
Souroutou I.	Borneo, W.	410
South Breakers,	Fort Marlborough	78
† South Brother, Dryon Straits		161 to 164
South Ca.	Formosa	384
South Ca.	Singapore Strait	221
South Ca.	Malay, E.	255
*South Ca.	Van Diemen's La.	559
South Channel,	Balabac Straits	393
South Channel,	Singapore Str.	226to229
Southeast Harbour,	Poggy I.	94
Southeast I.	Madura, E.	514
South Haycock I.,	Natunas	250
*South Head	Port Jackson	568
South Head	Broken Bay	570
South I. & Reef,	Singapore Strait	221
*South I.	Bouton I.	467
South I.	China Sea	157
South I.	Engano	96
† South I.	Gaspar Straits	142
*South I.	Japan Sea	390
† South I.	Natunas	250
South I.	Pantar Strait	537
South I.	Pulo Laut	421
South I.	Salayer Str.	465 to 467
South Passage,	New Guinea, N.	495
South Reach	Callam Strait	199
South Sand Head,	England, S.	610
South Sands,	Malacca Str.	195to204
*South Watcher,	Java, N.	119
South Woody I.,	Surigao Bay	398
Speke Rock	Sumatra, E.	160
Spencer Ca.,	New Guinea, W.	493
Spermonde Archipel.,	Celebes, W.	424
Sperry Ledge & Rock,	St. Helena	601
Stag's Rocks	British Channel	607
*Stag's Shoal	China Sea	368
Start Point	England, S	607
Staten Land	Terra del Fuego	572
Steep Point	Java, S.	100
† Stephen's Is.	Pacific Ocean	495
Still's I.	Aracan	8
Stole High Land,	Ceram, N.	552
Stony Head,	Van Diemcn's La.	561
Stony I.	Achen Head	45
Storm Bay	Van Diemen's La.	561
Stroom Rock	Sunda Strait	107
Struy's Bay	Africa, S.	600
Stuart's Sound,	Andaman Great	33
Sual Port	Luconia, W.	376
† Subic Bay	Ditto ditto	374
† Succadana	Borneo, W.	405
Sugar Loaf	Bencoolen	77
Sugar Loaf Hill,	China, S.	300
Sugar Loaf Hill,	Luconia, S.	399
Sugar Loaf Hill,	Waygeeooe	481
Sugar Loaf I.	Lieu-chew Is.	388
Sugar Loaf Point,	St. Helena	601
Sugar Loaf	Sumatra, S.	83
† Sugar Loaf	Tappanooly Bay	61
Sugud-boyan Bay,	Mindanao, S.	437
Suilo-Shaw	China, S.	339
*Sulphur I.	N. Pacific Ocean	502
Sultan's Shoal	Malacca Strait	215
Sumatra Bank	Ditto ditto	210
		Page
Sumatra Channels,	Sumatra, W,	52
Sumatra Currents,	Sumatra, W.	51
Sumatra, E.Ban & Dry,	Str.	121 to 166
Sumatra, N.	Malacca Str.	174 to 183
Sumatra, S.	Sunda Str.	102 to 107
Sumatra, W.,	Indian Ocean	44 to 84
Sumatra Winds,	Sumatra C.	50
*SumbawaBay & Town,	Sumbawal.	525
Sumbawa I.	Timor Sea	523
Sunda Strait	Java, N	102 to 113, 139
Sunda Strait Winds,	Ditto ditto	99
Sun Deep I.	Chittagong C.	3
Sunkar R.	Ditto ditto	3
† Sunken I.	Ava, C.	12 to 15, 31
Sunken Rocks	China, S.	340
Sunken Rocks	Flores Strait	534
SupawPulo	Sumatra, W.	93
Surat Castle's Shoal,	Allass Strait	522
† Surat Passage,	Achen Head	45 to 47
*Surigao Is. & Town,	Mindanao, N.	398
Surigao Passage,	Ditto ditto	397
Susannah St. I.,	Bengal Bay	26
Sutarana Road,	Timor, N.	541
*Suwarrow's Is.,	Pacific Ocean	596
*Swallow's Shoal,	China Sea	370
Swangy Pulo	Banda Is.	556
Swan Is.	Bass' Strait	565
*S.W. Cape	VanDiemen'sLa.	550
† S.W. Island	Natunas	248
*Swilly Rocks	VanDiemen'sLa.	560
S.W. Rocks,	Singapore Str.	224
*Syang I.	Gillolo Passage	479
Sy-catRock	China, S.	345
Sy-chew Bay	Hainan, S.	284
Sy-lock I.	China, S.	310
Sy-teng	Ditto ditto	344
	T
† Table Ca.	VanDiemen'sLa.	662
† Table Hill	Java, E.	517
† Table Hill	Palawan	371
Table Hill	Rhio Strait	157
Table I.	Bengal Bay	31
Table I.	Gaspar Straits	142
Table Mountain,	China, S.	306
*Table Point	Bally I.	518
Tabooyong Is.	Sumatra, W.	60
*Table Point	Giilolo, E.	476
Tabtaboon I.	Mindanao, S.	439
Ta-cow	China, E.	367
† Taganac I.	Sooloo Sea	397
*Taggal & Mountain,	Java, N.	511
† Taggal Rock	Ditto ditto	511
Tagloc Bay	Mindanao, E.	436
Tagne I.	Cochin China	273
*Tagolanda I.	Celebes, N.	432
Tagola Point	Mindanao, N.	397
Tagowloo I.	Sooloo Sea	441
† Tahow Bank	Ditto ditto	397
† Tai-cou Mountain,	Tsiompa	266
Tajo R.	Luconia, N.	378
*Takoot Kababawan,	Sooloo Sea	395
*Takoot Paboonoowan,	Ditto do.	396
Takoot Saanga	Ditto ditto	440
† Talabo Ca.	Celebes, E.	455
Talenading Is.,	Molucca Passage	437
Talook I.	Sooloo Sea	396
† Tamarind I.	Sunda Strait	106
Tambagaan I.	Sooloo Sea	397
*Tambelan Is.	China Sea	246
Tambove Road,	Luconia, W.	375

[page] 625

		Page
Tamong Pulo	Sumatra, W.	63
*Tamook I.	Sooloo Sea	441
Tampassook Point,	Borneo, W.	402
Tampelee Pulo,	Sumatra, N.	178
† Tamquan R.	Cochin China	279
*Tam-quoon-towl.,	China, S.	321
Tam-too I.	Ditto ditto	338
Tanah Putie R.,	Sumatra, N.	179
*Tanakekal. & Shoals,	Celebes, S.	461
*Tanasserim Is.&C.,	Bengal Bay	21 to 29
Tanasserim Archip.,	Ditto ditto	25
TancaPulo	Sumatra, W.	65
Tangala Is.	Java, S.	100
Tang-lung-chow,	Canton R.	307
Tangrea	Sumatra, S.	105
† Tang-soa	China, S.	349
*Tanjong Apee	Borneo, W.	250
Tanjong Awat	Malacca Strait	197
Tanjong Bantang,	Rhio Strait	158
Tanjong Barram,	Borneo, W.	403
Tanjong Barro	Sumatra, E.	161
*Tanjong Bassoo,	Sumatra, E.	161
TanjongBatooPootie,	Sumatra, N.	175
Tanjong Batoo	Ditto ditto	174
Tanjong Beeat,	Banca I.	134
† Tanjong Bon	Sumatra, E.	160
† Tanjong Boulus,	Malacca Strait	213
† Tanjong Brekat,	Banca, E.	144
Tanjong Carrang,	Lombock, W.	519
Tanjong China	Java, E.	518
Tanjong Chinna,	Sumatra, S.	84
Tanjong Clin	Malacca Strait	205
Tanjong Colean,	Banca Strait	133
Tanjong Craw	Ceram, N.	552
Tanjong Datoo,	Lingin I.	156
Tanjong Datoo,	Siam Gulf	256
† Tanjong Dattoo,	Borneo.W.	403
*Tanjong Eang	Lingin I.	155
† Tanjong Fatteye,	Borneo, W.	405
† Tanjong Goonting,	Banca, N.	149
Tanjong Inaroontang,	Borneo, N.	391
*Tanjong Jattee,	Sumatra, N.	180
Tanjong Kaeton,	Bornco, W.	402
Tanjong Laing,	Banca, E.	149
Tanjong Malaloo,	Banca, N.	149
Tanjong Mattie,	Sumatra, N.	178
† Tanjong Muncooda,	Banca, N.	149
Tanjong Napal,	Sunda Strait	102
Tanjong Oolar,	Banca, W.	134
Tanjong Ooloor,	Malacca Strait	190
Tanjong Pangong,	Banca Strait	130
Tanjong Pooni,	Ditto ditto	133
Tanjong Punyosoo,	Banca, N.	149
Tanjong Rumbeaab,	Lombock, W.	519
*Tanjong Ryah	Banca, E.	148
*Tanjong Salatan,	Borneo, S.	420
† Tanjong Sam bar,	Borneo, W.	405
† Tanj. Sampanmangio,	Born., N.	391
Tanjong Sisor	Borneo, W.	403
Tanjong Tekoos,	Sumatra, S.	103
*Tanjong Toca	Ditto ditto	104
Tanjong Tor	Malacca Strait	208
† Tanjong Tuan	Banca, E.	149
*Tanjong Tuan	Malacca Strait	204
Tanna I.	New Hebrides	593
Tantalam I.	Siam Gulf	257
*Tapeantana I. & Chan.,	Sooloo Sea	440
Tapool I.	Ditto ditto	396
Tapoos	Sumatra, W.	69
*Tappanooly Bay,	Ditto ditto	60
Tasdugan Inlet,	Philippines	400
*Tasman's Head,	Van Diemen's La.	560
		Page
Tatas Is.	Pitt's Passage	484
Ta-thong-moon,	China, S.	322
Tattaran I.	Sooloo Sea	440
Tauw I.	Timor Sea	545
*Tavoy Town	Tavoy R.	21
*Tavay I. & Point,	Bengal Bay	21 to 23
Tawally I.	Moluccas	454
† Tawee-tawee Is.,	Sooloo Sea	396
Taw-ling-saa	Canton R.	331
*Taya Is.	China Sea	287
† Taya Pulo	Junkseylon	29
*Taya Pulo	Sumatra, E.	154
*Tchin-san Is.	China, E.	354
*Tchoo-san I.	Ditto ditto	355
Tebonas R.	Borneo, S.	416
Teecoos Pulo	Prince of Walesl.	187
† TeegaPulo	Borneo, W.	402
Teega Pulo	Sumatra, W.	68
Teep-chow	China, S.	299
Tek Naaf R.	Aracan	5
Tekoos Pulo	Timor, W.	542
Telaggy Pulo	Sumatra, N.	177
Telewang	Allass Strait	523
† Telibon	Queda C.	183
† Tellapoe Road,	Sumatra, W.	55
Tellore Point	Ditto ditto	74
Tellore Pulo	Ayer Bongy Bay	65
† Tellore Pulo	near Ayer Raja	74
Tellore Pulo	near Natal	62
Teloo Cassee Bay,	Sumatra, W.	74
Teloor Pulo	Ditto ditto	71
*Temoel Ca.	Macassar Strait	425
Temonlangis Mount,	Sooloo	396
*Ten-choo-foo	China, E.	355
Ten Degrees Chan.,	Andamans, S.	29
*Teng-mee	China, S.	345
*Tenian I.	Marian Is.	501
*Ten Is.	Sumbawa, W.	522
† Tenth I.	Bass' Strait	565
*Terceira I.	Azores	603
Tercoli Pulo	Rhio Strait	158
*Ternate I.	Moluccas	548
Terooa Bay	Junkseylon	30
Terra Australis, E.		566 to 571
Terra del Fuego,	Patagonia	572 to 574
*Terressa I.	Nicobars	40
*Terribles	Aracan C.	6
† Te-tchong I.	China, E.	354
*Teynga I.	Sooloo Sea	442
† Third Point	Banca Strait	131
† Third Point	Sunrda Strait	110
Third Reach	Callam Strait	199
Thoatail I.	Tavay C.	20
Thomas I.	Timor Sea	543
Thomas St. R.	Luconia, W.	376
† Thornhill Ca.	Andaman Great	32
† Thousand Is.	Java, N.	120
*Three Alike Is.,	Macassar Strait	422
† Three Bastards,	Flores, N.	533
Three Bergs	England, S.	609
Three Brothers,	Amboina	553
Three Brothers,	Celebes Sea	461
*Three Brothers,	Dryon Straits	161
Three Brothers	Sunda Strait	104
Three Fathoms Bank,	Java, N.	510
Three Friars	Luconia, W.	374
Three Hill I.	Mindanao, S.	434
Three Hummock I.,	Bass' Strait	564
Three I. Bay	China, S.	304
Three Kings	Cochin China	276
Three Peaked I.,	Palawan	371
Three Sisters	Sunda Strait	121
		Page
Threshold Point,	New Guinea	494
*Thwart the Way,	Sunda Strait	107
Tibili Point	Mindora, W.	450
*Ticao I.	Philippines	399
† Ticoo Is.	Sumatra, W.	66
Tidong Pulo	Java, N.	114
*Tidore I.	Moluccas	548
† Tieng-fong Rock,	Hainan; S.	285
*Tien Pak	China, S.	297
Tiger I.	Canton R.	328
Tiger Is. & Shoals,	Celebes Sea	466
*Tiger I.	Tonking Gulf	282
Tiger I.	Tsiompa C.	267
Tiger's Hook	Tonking R.	282
Tillam	England, S.	609
† Tillanchong I.	Nicobars	42
Tilleroo Ca.	Se Pora I.	92
*Timoan Pulo	China Sea	252
*Timor I.	Timor Sea	538 to 544
*Timor Laut	Ditto ditto	544
*Timor Yung	Sumbawa, W.	522
*Ting-hoy Har.	China, E.	350
† Tingeran	Malaya, E.	255
† Tingy Pulo	China Sea	250
*Tinhosa False	Hainan, E.	286
*Tinhosa I.	Ditto ditto	286
Tiphou R.	Cochin China	280
Tiwoane Ca.	Tsiompa	265
Todos los Sauctos,	Japan Sea	390
*Toekoekemou I.,	Billiton, E.	414
† Toe-kow Bay	China, E.	350
*Token Besseys Is.,	Celebes Sea	469
Tollong-bouang R.,	Sumatra, E.	123
Tolo Bay	Celebes, E.	454
Tombs	DryonStraits	162
Tominie Bay	Celebes, E.	454
Tongeon High La.,	Hainan, E.	280
Tong-hou I. & Cove,	China, S.	315
Tongo I.	Poggy Is.	94
Tonier I.	Balambangan	392
*Tonin Is.	Salayer, S.	466
Ton-kieou	Hainan	285
† Tonking Gulf & R.,	Hainan, W.	281 to 283
*Tonyn Is.	Celebes Sea	461
† Toob Bataha	Sooloo Sea	394
*Toojoo Pulo	Banca, N.	154
Toojoo Pulo	Sumatra, W.	68
† Tooloo Samwoi,	Sumatra, N.	176
*Tooloo Samwoi Point,	Ditto ditto	176
Toolyan Bay	Sooloo I.	396
*Too-nee-ang I.,	China, S.	340
Toong-cat I.	China, S.	345
Toong-choong	Ditto ditto	313
Toong-teng	Ditto ditto	344
Toon-qua I.	Ditto ditto	305
Toon-quoo I.	Ditto ditto	314
*Topa del Point,	Azores	603
Topies	Rhio Strait	157
Tor Bay	England, S.	607
*Tores Is.	Bengal Bay	26
*Torres Strait,	New Guinea, S.	578 to 587
Torris I.	Pacific Ocean	595
*Toty Pulo	Banca, N.	152
Touroumang	Sumatra, W.	56
Towa I.	Banda Sea	553
Tower I.	Flores, S.	529
Track I.	Nicobars	42
Traitor's Is.	New Guinea	495
Trang R.	Queda C.	183
Treacherous Bay,	Billiton, W.	151
† Tree I. & Bank,	Sumatra, E.	123.
Tree I.	Borneo, W.	403

VOL. II. K K K K

[page] 626

		Page
*Tree I.	Cheduba	8
Tree I.	Gaspar Straits	146
† Tree I.	Singapore Str.	168
Tree I.	Sumatra, W.	74
Trees Ca.	Celebes, N.	426
*Tregrosses Is.	Pacific Ocean	578
† Tre I.	Cochin China	275
† TriamangR.	Sumatra, W.	76
*Triangles	Macassar Strait	423
Trice I.	Nicobars	42
*Trieste I.	Sumatra, W.	95
Trincutte I.	Nicobars	42
† Trinder's Shoal,	Macassar Strait	424
*Tringany	Malaya, E.	255
Trinity Land	Southern Ocean	574
*Tritons I.	Paracels	293
Troosan Pulo	Sumatra, W.	73
*Trotto Pulo	Malacca Strait	184
Trumball I. & Hill,	China, E.	353
Tsaug-chow	China, S.	344
Tsincoe I.	Ditto ditto	342
Tsiompa C.,	Cochin China	264 to 268
Tuft Point	New Guinea, N.	494
Tulaba Bay & R.,	Mindora, W.	450
Tulean Rock	Sooloo I.	396
*Tulour Is.	Mindanao, S.	435
Tulycaon Road,	Timor, N.	540
*Tumbora Moan.,	Sumbawa	525
*Tumpat Tuan Point,	Sumatra, W.	65
† Turatte Point	Celebes, S.	462
† Turks Cap	Sumatra, W.	92
Turks Cap	St. Helena	601
Turks Reef	Borneo Coral Is.	97
† Turon Bay & R.,	Cochin China	281
*Turon Ca.	Ditto ditto	281
Turret I.	Calamines	448
Turtle Bay	New Ireland	588
Turtle I.	Binkang Bay	275
Turtle I.	Cochin China	279
Turtle I.	Madura, E.	513
*Turtle Is.	Banda Sea	556
Turtle I.	Torres Strait	584
Twee-lien-shan,	Macao	325
Twins	Allass Strait	522
Twins	Andaman Great	35
*Twins	China, S.	299
Twins	Dryon Straits	163
† Twins	Mergui C.	26
Two & Half Fa. Bank,	Banca, S.	141
† Two & Half Fa. Ba.,	Malac. Str.	192
*Two Brothers	Borneo, S.	421
*Two Brothers	Malacca Strait	182
*Two Brothers	Sumatra, E.	121
† Twofold Bay	NewSouthWales	566
Two Paps	Cochin China	278
† Two Sisters	Luconia, W.	375
*Ty-ao-yu-su I.	China Sea	386
† Ty-chook-chow,	China, S.	298
Ty-cock-tow	Canton R.	328
*Ty-foong-kyoh I.,	China, S.	297
Ty-foongs	China Sea	233
*Tyfore I.	Moluccas	437
† Ty-han	China, S.	301
Ty-ho	Ditto ditto	313
† Tykam I.	Ditto ditto	304
Ty-lo-chow	Ditto ditto	310
Ty-lock	Ditto ditto	310
† Ty-loo I.	Ditto ditto	305
Ty-lo-so	Ditto ditto	343
Ty-mong I.	Ditto ditto	305
*Ty-oa Point & Bay,	Ditto ditto	390
† Typa	Macao Road	324
		Page
*Ty-pin-san I.	China Sea	387
Ty-poong Har.,	China, S.	341
Ty-sammee	Ditto ditto	344
Ty-sing	Ditto ditto	342
Ty-sing-cham	Ditto ditto	345
*Ty tam Har. & To.,	Ditto ditto	319
Ty-wan	Formosa I.	384, 386
† Ty-wok I.	China, S.	301
	U
Uckoia Channel,	Chittagong C.	2
*Umatac Bay	Marian Is.	501
† Unions Ledge,	Andaman, N.	33
Unions Shoal	Macassar Strait	423
Unsang Peninsula,	Borneo, E.	397
Upright Point	NewSouth Wales	567
† Uracas Is.	Marian Is.	502
*Urk I.	Kangelang, S.	514
Urmston's Bay,	China, South	314
Urukthapel I.	Pellews	498
*Ushant Lights,	British Channel	607
Usuanga Bay	Mindora, W.	450
† Utrich Fort	Bally Strait	517
	V
Vader Smith's Sh.,	Batavia Road	118
Valinasay Point,	Luconia, W.	376
Valparaiso	Chili	574
*ValscheCa.	New Guinea	546
*Van Diem. La.,	Southern Oc.	558 to 566
† Vansittart's Shoal,	Banca, E.	146
Vansittart's Shoal,	DampiersStrait	486
† Vansittart's Shoals,	Java Sea	141
*Varela Ca.	Cochin China	276
† Varela False Ca.,	Ditto ditto	273
† Varela Pulo	China Sea	254
Varela Pulo	Cochin China	276
*Varela Pulo	Malacca Strait	181
† Varela Pulo	Sumatra, E.	159
Varela Reef	Malacca Strait	181
Varne Shoal	British Channel	610
Velas Point	Azores	603
*Vele Rete Rocks,	China Sea	384
*Velthoens I.	Celebes Sea	470
Verd Cape Is.	Atlantic Ocean	602
Verlatens I.	Sunda Strait	106
Vicente San Port & I.	Luconia, N.	378
*Victoria Fort	Amboina	553
*Victory I.	China Sea	247
Vinay Point	Tsiompa	266
Vincent St. Point,	Van Diemen's La.	559
*Vincent St. Port,	New Caledonia	591
*Vine's Dry Sand,	Pacific Ocean	577
*Viper's Shoal	China Sea	370
Vogels Is.	Malacca Strait	183
*VolcanicMountain,	Bally I.	517
*Volcano I.	Pacific Ocean	594
Volcano Mounl.,	Sumatra, W.	74
*Vuladores Shoal,	Paracels	293
Vung Chao Har.,	Cochin China	277
Vung Gang	Ditto ditto	273
Vung-la-Cove	Ditto ditto	277
Vung-lam Har.,	Ditto ditto	277
Vung-mon Bay & Point,	Ditto ditto	278
† Vung-trich Point,	Ditto ditto	278
	W
† Wag-lan	China, S.	321
*Waller's Shoals,	Celobcs Sea	423
Wall of China	China, N.	357
Wallis I.	New Ireland	588
*Walpole's I.	S. Pacific Ocean	594
		Page
*Wamvax I.	Torres Str.	579 to 582
Wan-chun-chow,	China, S.	339
Wangiwangi I.,	Token Besseys	469
Wang-tong I.	Canton R.	330
† Warning Mount,	New South Wales	575
*Waroo Bay	Ceram. N.	552
Warren Hast. Shoal,	Gaspar Straits	145
*Watcher, North,	Java Sea	119
† Watcher, North,	Macassar Strait	426
*Watcher, South,	Java Sea	119
Watcher, South,	Macassar Strait	425
Water Bay	Sapy Strait	527
*Waterhouse I. & Point,	Bass'Strait	565
Watering Bay	China, S.	302
Watering Bay	Lea-tong Gulf	358
Watering I.	Singapore Strait	221
Water, Is.	China, S.	306
† Water Is.	Cochin China	274
Water Is.	Malacca Road	208
Water Point	Java, E.	517
*Waxway I.	Celebes, E.	469
*Waygeeooe I.	Gillolo, E.	480
Way Pulo	Achen Is.	44
Way Pulo	Banda Is.	555
† Way Pulo	Siam Gulf	259
*Wednesday I.	Torres Strait	580
† Weeda Is.	Gillolo, E.	476
Weetang I.	Timor Sea	545
† Welcome Bay	Sunda Strait	110
*Welstead's Rock,	China Sea	245
West Brother	Hainan	286
*West Ca.	Van Diemen's La.	558
West Danger I.,	Pacific Ocean	594
WesternChannel,	Banca Strait	126
WesternChannel,	Dryon Straits	162
*Western Grove,	Rangoon R.	14
Western I.	Engano Bay	95
West Group	Borneo, W.	406
West I.	Andaman Great	32
West I.	Flores, W.	528
† West I.	Java Sea	120
West I.	Moluccas	549
*West I.	Natunas	250
*WestLondonReef,	China Sea	367
West Point	China S.	306
*Wetter I.	Timor Sea	538
Weymouth Ca,	NewSouthWales	586
Weywongy I.	Moluccas	469
Whale Rock	Sumatra, W.	68
Whale	Salayer, W.	464
Whale's Crown,	Singapore Strait	221
† Whampoa Anchor.,	Canton R.	334
Whelps	China, E.	351
White Button	China, Sea	262
White Reef	Tavay R.	20
White Rock	Banca Strait	131
White Rock	China Sea	263
White Rock	Java Sea	413
White Rock	Mergui C.	27
† White Rock	Panay, W.	445
White Rook Point,	China S.	343
White Rocks	Ditto ditto	315
† White Rocks	Ditto ditto	317
White Rock	Sumatra, W.	56
*White Rock	Van Diemen's La.	560
White Sandy Cliffs,	Aracan	1
Whitsunday Passage,	Australia, E.	586
Widemouth Shoal,	British Channel	609
Wight I.	Ditto ditto	609
William's Bay	Damme I.	545
*William Ca.	Celebes, W.	425
Willington Mill,	England, S.	609

[page] 627

		Page
Wilson's Promontory,	Bass' Strait	566
Winchelsea's I.,	S.Pacific Oc.	588
*Wizard Rocks	China, S.	304
Wo-chow	Ditto ditto	338
Woerden Castle Rock,	Java, N	509
*Wolf Rock	Moluccas	548
*Woody I.	China Sea	291
Woody I.	Pacific Ocean	592
Woody Is.	Mondanao, N.	398
Woody I	Mindanao, N.	398
Woody I.	Sumatra, S.	105
Woong-moo I.,	China, S.	309
Wooog-mow I.,	Ditto ditto	343
*Wreck Reef	S.Pacific Oc.	575
† Wright's I.	Lingin C.	156
Wright's Rock,	Bass' Strait	566
Wyang I.	Gillolo Passage	479
*Wy-caup I.	China, S.	304
Wyndham's I.	Aracan	8
	X
Xuan-dai Harbour,	Cochin China	277
*Xulla Bessey I.,	Moluccas	472
Xulla Mangola I.,	Ditto	454
Xulla Talyabo I.,	Ditto	464
	Y
Ya-chow	China, S.	321
†Yait-chew Bay & Town,	Hainan	284
Yambie Mew	Aracan	8
*Yap I.	Pacific Ocean	500
Yat-moon	China, S.	321
Yellow Sea & R.,	China, E.	354 to 358
*Ye R. & Town	Tavay C.	20
*Ylin Is.	Mindora, S.	446
Yloylo	Panay I.	444
York Breakers,	Palawan, W.	372
York Ca.,	Endeayours Str.	575, 586
*York Is.	Ditto	580
*Yowl Is.	Waygeeooe, N.	480
Ysaroe Mountain,	Luconia, E.	401
Yue-tong	China, S.	298
Yu-lin-kan Bay,	Hainan	284
	Z
*Zalinaf I.	Celebes Sea	459
Zamanap	Madura, E.	514
Zealand New	S. Pacific Ocean	573
Zeba Bay	Savu I.	543
Zebo I.	Martaban	19
Zee Klip	Sunda Strait	107
Zelody Is.	Samatra, W.	62
Zemanro Gut	Solor Strait	536
*Zeu-oo-tau Ca.,	China, E.	356
Zidayo	Java, E.	512
Zingat Mountains,	Martaban	19
† Zonby I.	Hainan	287
† Zutphen Is.	Sunda Strait	104

SUPPLEMENT.

Vegas Shoal.

Geo. Site.

VEGAS SHOAL,* situated to the northward of the Straits of Gaspar, has been discovered in September, 1826, by Captain Jose Antonio de Vega, of the Spanish frigate, Bellos, which ship struck and grounded on it, when outward bound to Manilla, and by carrying out an anchor she was hove off the shoal. Its extent is little more than a ship's length, with depths on it from 22 to 18 feet water, and near to it soundings of 9, 11, 17, and 22 fathoms. This dangerous, and hitherto unknown shoal, Capt. de Vega made in lat. 1° 10′ S., lon. 106° 34′ E. by chronometer, measured from Gaspar Island, which he passed on the preceding day, and the shoal bears N. 20° W. from that island, distant about 27 leagues, being much in the way of ships coming from the northward in cloudy unfavorable weather, when running for the Straits of Gaspar.

The following islands and dangers in the Pacific Ocean, have lately been seen and partly explored by Captain, Renneck, of the Lyra, southern whaler, belonging to Messrs. Enderby.

Feads Is.

Geo. Site.

Geo. Site of Goodman's Island, and Sand Bank.

FEAD'S ISLANDS, situated to the eastward of New Ireland, extending nearly N.W. and S. E. about 9 leagues, were seen February 16th, 1826, and they consist of an irregular chain of low isles and sand-banks, environed by a reef, the northern extremity of which is in lat. 3° 9′ S., lon. 154° 22′ E. The southern part of the chain is separated from that to the northward by a gap or apparent passage, and this southern part called Goodman's Island, is in lat. 3° 27′ S., lon. 154° 45′ E., but to the southward of this southern extremity of the chain, there is a detached sand bank and reef in lat. 3° 33′ S., lon. 154° 37′ E. by chronometer. These islands abound with cocoa-nuts, and some of them are inhabited, as upon the beach of one of the islands, about 100 natives were observed waving green boughs.

Geo. Site of Circular Reef.

CIRCULAR REEF, explored November 7th, 1825, situated in lat. 3° 18′ S., lon. 147° 40′ E., is about 3 or 4 miles in diameter, having deep water inside, with an opening about a ¼ mile wide at the N. N.W. part, and the reef on the outside is steep to.

Geo. Site of Lyra's Shoal.

LYRA'S SHOAL, discovered February 18th, 1826, appeared to be a narrow spit, extending N. E. and S.W. from about lat. 1° 48′ S. to 1° 59′ S., and in lon. 153° 28′ E. by chronometer, the middle part where the Lyra passed over; and coral rocks were seen under the snip, over which the depth was probably not more than 4 or 5 fathoms, but before the lead could be hove, she got into deep water, clear of the shoal.

Geo. Site of Enderby's Islands.

ENDERBY'S ISLANDS, two in number, situated in lat. 7° 18′ N., lon. 149° 2′ E. were approached close, on February 27th, 1826, and the inhabitants came off in canoes with cocoa-nuts and some flying-fish. When these islands were nearly in a transit line bearing E. S. E., distant from the nearest about 6 miles, saw coral rocks under the bottom, and had several casts of 7, 8, 10, and 12 fathoms water, upon this coral bank.

Geo. Site of Kama.

Two islands, situated in lat.6° 34′ N., lon. 142° 44′ E., were thought by Captain Renneck to be anew discovery, but they are placed in Admiral Krusenstern's Atlas of the South Pacific Ocean under the name of Kama.

Thompson's Island.

Geo. Site.

THOMPSON'S ISLAND, discovered December 13th, 1825, by the smack Sprightly, Capt. Geo. Norris, with the Lively in company,† was found to be rather low, and it appeared of small extent, the sea breaking upon it with great violence. Three rocks, named the CHIMNIES, lie 4 or 5 miles to the S. Eastward of Thompson's Island; and another small rock about 3 miles to the southward of the chimnies. Capt. Norris describes Thompson's Island to be in lat. 53° 56′ S., lon 5° 30′ E., and bearing from Bouvet's Island N. N. E. distant about 15

* Communicated by Capt Bluir, of the Company's ship William Fairlie.

† Both vessels belonging to Messrs. Enderby, who liberally afforded me access to the log-book, and to whom their country's gratitude is due, for their enterprising spirit, in ordering the Commanders of their vessels to search for new islands, in high southern latitudes, with a view to attain to a more perfect knowledge of that part of the ocean, as well as to discover new situations for fishing.

[page] 628

leagues: but he states the latter island to be in lat. 54° 15′ S., lon. 5° E., which, if correct, would make the distance considerably less between these islands; not above 8 leagues.

Bouvets Island.

BOUVETS ISLAND, as stated in Vol. 1st of this work, was seen in 1808, by Capt. Lindsay, of the Swan, but there is reason to believe, that no human being has ever been able to laud upon this almost inaccessible island, until December 16th, 1825, when a whale boat from the Sprightly landed, and took formal possession of it, in the name of King George the 4th, and named it Liverpool Island, but the name of its first discoverer, Bouvet, ought not to be transfered.

The Sprightly fell in with this island December 10th, and from this date till January 24th, 1826, this vessel, and the Lively her consort, remained in its neighbourhood, having a boat's crew on the island great part of this time, endeavouring to obtain the fur seal skins; but very few were procured, the only place where they could land, being at the S.W. end of the island, called Seal Point, by Capt. Norris. This island appeared to extend North and South about 3 or 4 leagues, the North end high and rugged, the South end low, the middle high, covered with snow, and may be seen 12 or 14 leagues in clear weather. It was observed to be of volcanic origin, the surface like a cinder, containing large veins of transparent black lava, some of them interlaid with white streaks. Except at the S.Western end, the island presents a steep inaccessible rocky coast, but soundings of 35 to 20 fathoms black sandy bottom, were got on the South side of it about a mile off shore.

A small rock lies off the S. E. end of the island; and a high pyramidal rock bears N. W. by V. about 6 miles from its N.W. end, which was at first mistaken for an ice-berg, it being cased with ice: many other rocks around the island, were also observed to be cased with ice, had been mistaken for ice-bergs, and the N.W. side of the island is the most dangerous part, it being fronted here, by many perpendicular rocks, and small ice.

Geo. Site approximated:

Bearings of the island, and its estimated distances, at noon, on ten different days, when the latitude was observed, are inserted in the Sprightly's log-book; these noon observations, the least and the greatest, giving 15 miles difference in the latitude of the island, but the mean result of the ten days observations places the body of the island Bouvet in lat. 54° 21¾′ S., and the mean of five days observations for the chronometer this vessel had on board, will place it in lon. 5° 24′ E., the extent of difference of the longitude given by chronometer for the island during these five days being 60 miles. The mean of Capt. Lindsay's observations, (stated in Vol. 1st) and those of Capt. Norris, would place Bouvet's Island in lat. 54° 15½′ S., lon. 5° 37′ E., which differs not much from the mean approximation given above.

and of Thompson's Island.

If Thompson's Island bears N. N. E. 15 leagues from Bouvet's Island, as stated by the navigator named above, then, by the approximated geographical situation of Bouvet's Island, the former would be in about lat. 53° 40′ S. lon. 5° 33′ E. But if it is only 8 leagues from Bouvet's Island, in this case, Thompson's Island would be situated in about lat. 53° 58′ S., lon. 5° 28′ E.

Weather stormy.

In December and January, the Sprightly and Lively, experienced very stormy weather in the neighbourhood of these islands; although the wind was moderate at times, with a glimpse of clear sky, yet the fogs and strong gales came on so suddenly, as to prevent a boat from being sent from the vessels with safety, and Bouvet's Island was usually enveloped in fog clouds. Almost constant hard gales prevailed from the westward, with a high sea, and the current setting to the eastward, by which the vessels were often driven from the island; and their danger was increased, by numerous ice-bergs, and loose pieces of ice, with which they were almost daily embarrassed.

These vessels went afterward in a S.Westerly direction, as far as lat. 60° S. without discovering, any other land, and could not penetrate farther to the South, on account of a solid field of ice.

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Straits of Sunda	0 7 6
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Eastern Passages to China, 3 Sheets	1 11 6

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[page] 629

Britannia Rock.

BRITANNIA ROCK appears not to have been known until the ship Britannia struck on it, October 22d, 1826, and she soon afterward filled with water, when running in for the shore of St. Helena Bay. Captain Bouchier, of the Britannia, thinks this sunken rock to be of small extent, and very dangerous, as no indication of breakers was visible when the ship struck; at which time, Cape St. Martin's, the western extremity of St. Helena Bay, S.W. coast of Africa, bore S.S.W. by compass, distant 11 or 12 miles. No other bearings were taken.

Riy's doubtful Shoal.

RUY'S (doubtful) SHOAL, said by Captain Riy, of the ship Cragievir, to bear S. 48° E. by compass from Lady Donkin's Monument, at Fort Elizabeth, distant about 6 leagues, and A or 6 miles S. Eastward from Cape Recife: he says it is well known to the fishermen and coasters about Algoa Bay, and that the sea breaks on it in bad weather.

If this shoal really exists, as here described, the Company's ship William Pitt, probably perished on it, with all her crew, on the night of the 18th December, 1813; although the existence of a dangerous shoal in this situation, without being often seen by ships passing Cape Recife, seems very improbable.

Ice-bergs.

ICE-BERGS off the Bank of Cape Aguilhas, probably have been the cause of the loss of some missing ships, icebergs. for Capt. Milchior, of the French ship Harmonie, has given an extract from his journal, of the 7th April, 1828, stating that in lat. 35° 50′ S., lon. 15° 45′ E. from Paris, he fell in with several clusters of Ice-bergs, some of which appeared to be more than 100 feet above water and 200 feet in diameter, and that he passed between two of them about two cables' length from the nearest large pieces of ice, upon which the sea broke violently. If this statement is correct, it is very remarkable that Ice-bergs should have been found in the situation here given for hitherto, none appear to have been seen to the northward of lat. 44° or 45° south, in the Southern Ocean, near the longitude of the Cape Bank: and, that these Ice-bergs should have been seen early in April, or in the autumn of the southern hemisphere, when the sea ought to be clearer of ice for a greater distance to the southward than at any other season, renders this statement of Capt. Milchior's still more surprising.

Borneo Coral Isles. Port Albion and New Swlma.

BORNEO CORAL ISLES, described in this work, vol. ii, page 97, have lately been inhabited by Captain J. C. Ross, who first discovered the harbour, there called Port Refuge, to which he now applies the name of Port Albion, and he has given the name of New Selma to the village where he has fixed his residence, with his and family, and several followers, amongst whom are a smith and a carpenter. In vol. II. India Directory, page 98, line 10th from bottom, 97° 54′ E. is a mis-print* for 96° 54′ E.; and instead of the extent of these isles being from lat. 12° 3′ to 12° 21′ S. as there described, Captain Ross has ascertained more correctly, that they extend only from lat. 12° 4′ to 12° 14′ S., being 10 miles in length from north to south, and about 7 miles in breadth from east to west. Lon. 97° 4′ E. is that of the western side of the chain.

Ships homeward-bound, after clearing Sunda Straits and Java Head, are liable to sustain damage, whilst carrying sail with the S. E. Trade-wind, against a heavy swell from the S. W.; and as Port Albion is situated nearly in the direct route of these, also of ships outward-bound to the west coast of Sumatra, or the eastern parts of the Bay of Bengal, late in the season, Captain Ross thought, that by forming the settlement of New Selma, it might become of great importance to the commerce of the British Empire, and to general navigation, by Port Albion affording a harbour of refuge for ships to repair damage, refresh their people, if scorbutic, with cocoa-nuts, good water, or some time hence, with hogs and poultry, which may easily be reared. His expectations have been already in some measure realized, for two ships have touched at Port Albion, to secure started butt-ends, and one from Port Jackson, bound to Calcutta, stopped and filled up her water.

New Selma has been found a healthy place; the Trade-wind blows constantly with more or less strength, varying occasionally between South and E.N.E.; the showery season is from January to July, but slight showers fell at other times. The current usually sets to N.W.ward, sometimes from 1 to 1½ mile per hour; and the range of the thermometer is between 73° and 84°.

Sailing directions.

A ship intending to stop at Port Albion, if uncertain of her longitude, ought to get into lat. 12° 10′ S., at a reasonable distance to the eastward of the Coral Isles, and proceed to the westward on that parallel until their eastern part is seen, then steer for the north-easternmost island of the chain, called Direction Island, and round it on the western side within a ¼ mile, to give a birth to the reef that extends from the island on the N.W. side of the harbour's entrance, and then be ready to anchor in from 10 to 7 or 6 fathoms water, when Direction Island bears about East or E. by N., as the bank of soundings is very steep, there being only 3¾ fathoms when this island bears about N.E. If unprovided with a chain-cable, a spot of sandy ground ought to be chosen for anchorage, as there are many rocky patches; and afterward, the ship may be warped into the deep water basin inside of Direction Island, or piloted up the harbour by an experienced person belonging to the settlement of New Selma, where wood and water may be obtained.

Bombay Harbour.

A SPIRE BUOY has been placed in the entrance of Bombay Harbour, to guide ships into the Fair Channel during the S.W. monsoon, when pilots are prevented from getting out beyond the reeft on the flood-tide. This Buoy is placed between Tull Reef and the Prongs, which extend from the Light-house point of Old Woman's Island, in 7 fathoms at low water spring-tides, and 9½ fathoms at high water, distant from the nearest part of Tull Reef 1½ mile, and from the nearest part of the Light-house Prongs ¾ of a mile. Kanary Island bears from it S. ¾ E.; Light-house on Old Woman's Island, N. by E; Tull Nob, S.E. by E. ½ E., a ship's length open to the northward of the northernmost Pap on the Highland of Tull; Funnel Hill on the back Hand E. ½ N., well shut

* In vol. i. page 496, line 12, for observations, read observatory.

[page] 630

in with the north part of Caranja Great Hill; Sunken Rock Floating Light Vessel (or Buoy in her place in the fair season), N.E. ¼ N., on with the eastern part of Butcher's Island; Oyster Rock Beacon, erected of stone and lime, 24 feet in height, N.N.E. ½ E., a little open to the eastward of Cross Island.

Entering the harbour without a pilot, pass at a small distance to the southward of the Spire Buoy, then steer N.E., N.E. by N., and N.N.E. if it be flood tide; but if it be ebb tide, steer E.N.E., N.E. by E., and N.E. to avoid the south-east Prong, extending from Old Woman's Island, and afterward be careful to pass outside, or to the eastward of the Sunken Rock Vessel or Buoy, then wait for a pilot.

Reef off the Little Coco.

LITTLE COCO ISLAND,* having a doubtful rock about 6 miles S. by W. from it, and a reef projecting from its southern extremity, neither of which have been correctly ascertained, although the following extract from the journal of Captain K. Forbes, of the ship James Sibbald, seems to prove the existence of the reef, and that it extends about 4 or 5 miles from the island. March 17th, 1827, at five P.M., centre of Little Coco Island, N.N.W., off shore about three miles, shoaled suddenly to 10 fathoms; bore away to the southward, finding we were on the edge of the reef, and had soundings from 10 to 20 fathoms, with sudden overfalls of 5 and 6 fathoms. This reef appeared to extend about 5 miles from the island in a southerly direction, and seemed to be dangerous, for the coral bottom was frequently seen, and some rocks even with the water's edge about 3 miles from the island.

Malacca Strait.

MALACCA STRAIT.—Captain Rous, of H.M. ship Rainbow, observes that the Malay coast between Pulo Pisang and Formosa Point, may be approached within 2 miles of the beach, any where to the northward of Pulo Pisang, as the mud bank does not extend near so far off from the land, as hitherto represented by the Charts and Sailing Directory.

Selat Sinki Passage.

Captain Rous, also states, that if a vessel under 600 tons, bound to Singapore, be unable to get round the Rabbit and Coney† with a southerly wind, she may bear away for the passage of Selat Sinki, or New Harbour, which will be found safe and expeditious, although it is too narrow and confined for vessels of large size. The entrance of this passage bears E.N.E. from die Sultan's Shoal, and is bold on either side, the only danger being a two fathoms bank on the southern shore; and in proceeding by this passage, after having cleared the narrows, and opened Singapore Harbour, steer along Trumba Trumbaya Reef, about a cable's length off it, and when Well to the southward, edge away for the anchorage of Singapore.

Sultan's Shoal.

SULTAN'S SHOAL has lately been examined by Captain Ross, the Companys' Marine Surveyor, who landed on it, and states that it is about 3 feet above the sea on spring-tides at low water, having 7 and 8 fathoms close to the rocks all round.

Arethusa Reef.

ARETHUSA REEF, on which the brig of this name struck, at 11 P.M. July 15, 1821, on her passage from Tringany towards Singapore, when working between Pulo Tingy and the main, appears to be a reef under water, extending to the north and westward of a small islet, which bears W. ½ S. from the Peak of Pulo Tingy, being nearly in mid-channel between Pulo Tingy and the main, and having 10 fathoms water close to it onthe inside. When the vessel struck, the small islet was bearing S.S.E.; and after backing the sails, she came off the reef immediately.

Shoal near the coast of Malay.

MALAY EAST COAST.—The brig Margaret, in working to the northward along this coast, at two P.M. January 31st 1827, shoaled suddenly from 6 to 4 fathoms, in about lat. 3° 0′ N., and 3 miles off shore. Tacked, had 3 fathoms in stays, and the sea broke about ½ a cable's length to leeward, the wind being strong from the N.N.E.ward, with a heavy swell. There are two conspicuous little hills on the low land, of regular form, the northernmost of which bore W. by S., and the other S.W. by W. when the vessel was in 3 fathoms, the trees close to the beach being then visible from the deck. Between the above-mentioned shoal bank and the shore there appeared to be deeper water, but as the bottom is very irregular hereabout, great caution is requisite.

Reef near Victory Island, China Sea.

DOUBTFUL REEF, with breakers, said to have been seen in the grab brig, Bombay merchant, Captain Hughes, in January 1825, and was nearly in one with Victory Island bearing N.E., distant from the island about 5 or 6 miles, and soundings of 32 fathoms were got near this supposed reef.

Wyllie's Rocks, Babuyan Islands.

WYLLIE'S ROCKS, not hitherto known to European navigators, were discovered by Captain Wyllie, in the ship Dona Carmalita, August 11th 1825, on his voyage from Calcutta towards the west coast of Mexico, and might prove dangerous to ships passing through amongst the Babuyan islands in the night. These rocks consist of two clusters above water, with high breakers between them, the southernmost rock, which is the largest, bearing N.N.E, distant 4 or 5 miles from Panuctan, the small isle near Calayan, and the other cluster is situated about 1½ mile in a N.N.E. direction from the southernmost or largest rock. In passing the island Lapurip had an observation, which made it several miles more to the northward than it is stated to be in the India Directory.

Grosvenor's Shoal, in the Pitt's Passage.

GROSVENOR's SHOAL ‡ was seen by Captain Wyllie, in the Dona Carmalita, September 20th, 1826, and the ship passed along its northern side, within 1 mile of the strong ripplings and breakers which were conspicuous on the edge of the shoal, the current then setting strong to the southward against a moderate breeze at S.S.E. When the extremes of the shoal bore from S. 50° E. to S. 38° W., and the nearest part, south,

* See page 32 of this work.

† Buffalo Rock, to the eastward of the Rabbit and Coney, was thought to have very deep water close to it, as stated in the India Directory, but the boat of the Broxbournbury, Capt. Fewson, lately found twenty, sixteen, and ten fathoms, close to the rock on the N.W. side.

‡ Described in pages 483 and 464 of vol II. India Directory.

[page] 631

Geo. Site.

distant 1 mile, the easternmost Boo Island bore from N. 22° E. to N. 2° W.; the southernmost Island of Pulo Popa group N. 8° E., the trees on it just visible with the eye elevated 16 feet. By noon observation, the centre of the shoal was found to be in lat. 1° 17½′ S., lon. 129° 28′ E., or 1° 56′ W. from Point Pigot by chronometers, and it bears from the southernmost of the Boo Islands, S. 20° W., distant 12 or 13 miles. No soundings were got in passing the north side of the shoal within a mile, which appeared to extend from E.N.E. to W.S.W., 3 or 4 miles, and in breadth 1½ or 2 miles, having probably from 3 to 6 feet water on the exterior ridge on rocks that surrounds a basin of deeper water inside; and there seemed to be greater depth of water on the south side of the shoal, with openings which might possibly admit a ship into the basin.

Sherburne's Shoal.

Geo. Site.

SHERBURNE's SHOAL appears to be a new discovery, made 15th May 1824, by Captain G. White, in the ship Sherburne, on his passage from Chili towards Bengal. An extensive range of breakers was first seen at three P.M., bearing from N.W. to N.N.E., distant 3 miles, with rocks above water in several places; steered S.W., 7 miles, in a thick squall with rain, and at four P.M. again saw the shoal bearing from N.W. by W. to N.N.E., distant about a large mile from the nearest part, which was a dry sand-bank 3 or 4 feet above the surface of the sea, and forming the S.E. part of the shoal. At five P.M. a small rock on the S.E. part of the shoal bore N. by W., distant 4½ or 5 miles, no land visible from the mast-head although the weather was clear. The dry sand-bank is very small, which is the only part of the shoal above water, excepting the rocks, some of which appeared to be about 20 feet above the surface of the sea. When some high rocks on the northern extreme of the shoal bore north, and a large flat rock about N.W., the breakers were very high as far as could be seen to the northward, extending from N.E. by N. to N.W. by W., which latter bearing appeared to be the western extremity of the shoal. The extent of this shoal from east to west seemed to be 12 or 13 miles, and from north to south about 8 miles, the N.E. and S.Eastern parts bearing S.W. and N.E. from each other, having a deep bight between them, into which the ship was running, when the weather cleared up, and fortunately exhibited the danger. This shoal is rendered particularly dangerous, by its, situation being directly in the track of ships proceeding from St. George's Channel towards the northern coast of New Guinea. No observation for latitude was obtained when near the shoal, but on the following day the latitude by account differed only 6 miles from that by observation, which made the sand-bank or S.Eastern part of the shoal, in lat. 3° 15′ S., lon. 148° 16′ E., or 4° 43′ West from Cape St. George by chronometers, which is thought to be very near the true situation of this dangerous shoal.

Admiralty Islands and Reefs. Geo. Site.

ADMIRALTY ISLANDS and REEFS were seen May 19th 1824, by the ship Sherburae, and the southernmost isle was found to be in lat. 2° 39′ S., lon. 146° 40′ E., or 6° 19′ West from Cape St. George by chronometers. This isle and another small islet near it, appeared to be the eastern boundary of an extensive reef lying to the southward of the Admiralty Islands; and from the mast-head, breakers were seen 8 or 9 miles to the westward of die small isles, but between the latter and the breakers the sea appeared smooth, although they may be connected, and in such case, the dangers will extend about 10 miles east and west, and 4 miles north and south: at the northern part of the breakers, straggling rocks were seen above water.

Discovery, and Geo. Site of Jane's Islands.

JANE's ISLAND, discovered October 11th 1827, at three P.M. by Captain Magnus Johnson, of the ship Guildford, on his passage from New South Wales to China, is situated in lat. 7° 33′ N., lon. 155° 3′ E. by lunar observation. This island, one of the Carolina chain, appears to be a new discovery, and is very dangerous to approach in thick weather, being very low, in extent about ½ a mile, and several cocoa-nut trees were discerned. When the island bore N.E. ½ N. 4 or 5 miles, at five P.M., the sea broke high upon a reef extending 5 miles in a southerly direction from the S.E. point of the island, and a chain of breakers stretched from die island to the E.S.Eastward, as far as could be perceived from the mast-head, shewing the danger to be great in an easterly direction from the island. From the N.W. point, the broken water did not appear to project above a mile, and the S.W. side of the island seemed clear of danger.

Nimrod's Group.

NIMROD's GROUP, in the Southern Pacific Ocean, is a new discovery, made lately by the ship Nimrod, Capt. Henry Eilbech, on her passage from Port Jackson to Rio Janeiro, round Cape Horn. These Islands are placed by Capt. Eilbech in lat. 56½° S., lon. 158° 30′ W., but they appear to have been seen at a considerable distance, although numerous birds and amphibious animals, with a great quantity of marine vegetables, were found in their neighbourhood.

Singapore Anchorage.

SINGAPORE ANCHORAGE, although soft bottom inside of and upon the 5 fathoms bank, is steep on the western side. The Bridgewater, July 29th, 1827, anchored in 9 fathoms, and with 50 fathoms of cable veered out, had only 4¼ fathoms at low water; she hove in cable to 38 fathoms, had then 5½ fathoms at low water and 8 fathoms at high water; making the perpendicular rise and fall of tide 15 feet on the springs, and it may be sometimes more. The bearings from her anchorage were, flagstaff on the hill W.N.W., Johore hill, E.N.E., the small Island off St. Johns, S. ½ W.

Phuyen Harbour.

PHUYEN HARBOUR was visited lately by the Company's ship Vansittart, Captain Dalrymple; having sailed from Singapore, October 3d, 1827, and reaching lat. 14° N. lone. 110° E. on the 20th, where she encountered a steady N.E. monsoon, bore away for Phuyen Harbour to fill up her water, where she anchored on the 22d, in 8½ fathoms, the northern entrance of the harbour N. 72° E., southern entrance, S. 28° E., Nest Island, S. 19° E., Island off Vinglam, N. 38° W., Buoy Rock, N. 45° W., northern entrance of the Inner Harbour,

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N. 31° W., western entrance of ditto N. 48° W.; the watering place in a small bay, N. by E., which was a fine cascade close to the beach, and very convenient for watering. The Buoy Rock was covered at half flood, and appeared like a boat at low water. The Island Maignia, to the southward of the entrance of the harbour, is high, and was shut in with the southern point of the entrance from the ship's anchorage, which anchorage was rather too far to the southward in the N.E. monsoon. The Vansitttfrt sailed from Phuyen Harbour, October 24th, went by the Palawan Passage and coast of Luconia, had mostly favourable winds, and arrived at Macao, November 14th.

Ice-bergs.

ICE-BERGS, noticed in page 629, having been seen off the Cape of Good Hope, by the French ship Harmonie, their existence is now proved beyond doubt by the following description of them, given by the Spanish ship Constancia, in the Diario Mercantel, at Cadiz, after her arrival at that port from Manilla, which ship spoke with the French ship Harmonie, when they were among the Ice-bergs.

April 7th, 1828, at 10¾ A.M., saw a small island, which from the deck appeared like a white cloud, and some shadowy lines were afterwards observed in it, as is usual in land. At 11 A.M., having approached nearer, it appeared to be a large Island of considerable height, divided into two summits:—soon after, three other small Islands were discovered bearing north, at a short distance from the former. At 11½ A.M., we perceived that they were white, and that the light of the sun was reflected by their surface as by a mirror, whilst in those places where the sun did not shine, there were shadows as are seen in distant land. We remained perplexed with this phenomenon till noon, when we found the latitude to be 35° 56′ S. longitude 24° 16′ 20″ E. of Cadiz, (or 17° 59′ E. of Greenwich,) by chronometer, corresponding with lunar observations taken on the preceding day. At this time the Islands bore N. 78° W. distant 7 or 8 miles, sounded with 135 fathoms line, found no bottom, and the sea continuing of a green colour, made us conclude that these were Ice-Islands, which had drifted to lat 35° 54¾′ S. lon. 17° 50¼′ E., from Greenwich. Steered W. S. W. till 2 P.M., and spoke the French Vessel L'Harmonie from Calcutta, which vessel had been visible since daylight. We then proceeded W.N.W. with a N. E. and N. N. E. wind, leaving the French vessel behind, and at ½ past 3 P.M., discovered two other Ice-bergs, which we passed on the north side at 4½ P.M., having sailed 13 miles from 2 P.M. The most southerly of these, presented a square of 25 or 30 toises of elevation, but without an apex, like the other near it: at the distance of 3 miles to the north of these, another Ice-berg of large size appeared. The French vessel passed between the first, and the other which lay W. S. W. of it, and which seemed almost breaking up, as the surface of the sea around, was covered with small pieces of ice: some time after in the dusk of the evening, we passed another Ice-berg, almost dissolved. The wind changed to N. N. W. and N. W. in the night, and blew tempestuously all the following day, without any more Ice being seen.

These Ice-bergs were probably drifted by a northerly current and S. Westerly winds, and swell, from some large extent of land, which perhaps exists in a high latitude to the southward of Bouvet's and Thompson's Islands, and farther to the eastward than Sandwich Land. But it is somewhat remarkable, that these Ice-bergs were seen early in April, which is the autumn of the southern hemisphere; whereas, March and April are the spring months of the northern hemisphere, when in these game months, the arctic or northern Ice-bergs, are usually observed in the North Atlantic Ocean, to drift farther to the southward before they are dissolved, than at any other time of the year.

It is probable, that an Ice-berg might have been perceived by some of the early navigators, off the Cape of Good Hope, and the singular or magical appearance of which, viewed at a considerable distance, given rise to the fable of the Flying Dutchman.

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Banks and Dangers to the north of the Laccadiva Islands.

Geo. Site.

BASSAS DE PEDRO and CHERBANIANI BANK or REEF, described in the India Directory, page Bank, and 871, vol. I., have been explored in February and March 1828, by Lieut, R. Moresby, in the Thetis Bombay cruiser, in consequence of the loss of the ship Byramgore,* on a reef situated between the northernmost of the Laccadiva Islands and Cherbaniani Bank, not previously known to navigators. Lieut. Moresby has given the following description of these banks and dangers. Bassas de Pedro, or Padua Bank, is a bank of soundings 70 miles in extent from lat. 12° 30′ to 13° 40′ N., and situated between the meridians of 72° 40′ to 73° 4′ E., having on the northern part soundings usually from 24 to 28 fathoms, and on the southern part 28 to 33 fathoms, sand, shells, and rotten coral:—the water on the bank is not discoloured, so as to indicate soundings, and the edges of it are steep.

To the N.W. of the bank last-mentioned, there is another bank of small extent, having on it depths from 25 to 30 fathoms, the bottom of the same quality as the other:—this small bank extends from lat. 13° 33′ to lat. 13° 49′ N., the centre being in lon. 72° 33′ E., and it is from 2 to 5 miles in breadth.

Cherbaniani Reef.

Geo. Site.

CHERBANIANI REEF of coral rocks, visible at low water, is dangerous to approach, having no soundings at ½ a mile off; and on the northern and southern extremities, there are two sand-banks about 8 feet above high-watermark. The extent of the reef is 7 miles, or from lat. 12° 15′ 22″ to lat. 12° 22′ N., its western edge preserving nearly a straight line N. ½ W. and S. ½ E., and the eastern edge forms a semicircle from the north and south points of 3 or 4 miles in breadth. The south point is 2° 53′ west from Mangalore by chronometers, or in lon. 72° 14′ E. The flood was found to run to N.W. and the ebb to the S.E. 1 mile per hour on the springs; high water at 11 hours on full and change of the moon.

Byramgore Shoal, a late discovery.

Geo. Site.

A Shoal bank contiguous.

Remarks.

BYRAMGORE SHOAL is of considerable extent, the coral rocks of which it consists being just discernible at low water; it is of conical shape, broadest at the southern part, where the east and west points bear E. ½ S. and W. ½ N. distant 4½ miles from each other:—there is a small curve to the northward between these points, midway betwixt which, the Byramgore was wrecked, in lat 11° 47′ 40″ N., lon. 72° 8½′ E., or 5½ miles west of the meridian of Cherbaniani Reef. The N.W. point is in lat 11° 54′ N., lon. 72° 3′ E., bearing from the S.W. point N. 28° W., distant 8 miles. From the N.W. point of the reef in a north-east direction, a bank of coral rock extends as far as lat 12° N., with depths on it from 8 to 4 fathoms, the coral distinctly visible, and the edges of this bank are steep from 7 fathoms, to no bottom. The eastern side of it bears about north and N. by W. from the S. Eastern point of Byramgore Shoal; and excepting on this bank to the north of the Shoal last-mentioned, there are no soundings near it, or Cherbaniani Reef, which renders the approach to them very dangerous, as the noise of the surf would not be heard unless a ship were to leeward in calm weather, and the current frequently sets 12 or 15 miles during the night, in uncertain directions, although usually between S.E. and S.W. during die months of February, March, and April.

Another Shoal, position uncertain.

The Amherst cruizer, in December 1827, proceeded from Mangalore to the wreck of the Byramgore, passed to the northward of, and in sight of the Islands Chittae, and Betra-par;—when the latter island bore E.S.E.; seen from the top-sail yard, the wreck of the Byramgore appeared like a large rock bearing N.W. ½ N., and the reef extending from it to N. by W. When the Island Betra-par seen from the main-top bore S.E., the breakers on the Byramgore Shoal were visible from the mast-head bearing west By the foregoing remarks it appears, that a ship may pass through the channel betwixt the Byramgore Shoal and the north-westernmost of the Laccadiva Islands called Betra-par; also between the Byramgore Shoal and Cherbaniani Reef, by keeping in lat. 12° 8′ or 12° 10′ N., but neither of these channels ought probably to be adopted excepting during fine weather, and in a case of necessity; although the passage to the northward of those dangers, over the bank of Bassas de Pedro, is thought to be safe, as no shoal water has been found upon the latter bank. Capt. Charles Keys, Master Attendant at Bombay, who has transmitted an account of these dangers, lately published by him at that presidency, observes, that the ship Competitor from Colombo, bound to Bombay, on the 21st August 1827, observed in lat. 11° 30′ N., and then saw one of the Laccadiva Islands bearing E. by S., distant about 4 leagues, which was thought to be Peremul-par, from which time she steered N. ½ W. 3½ miles, north 10½ miles, W.S.W. 4 miles, S.W. by W. 3½ miles, and W. by N. 3½ miles, when at 2½ A.M. she struck on a Shoal, supposed to be Betra-par; and after throwing part of the cargo overboard to lighten the ship, she backed off the shoal at 7 A.M. much damaged, as several of the bottom planks, and 50 feet of the main keel, were obliged to be replaced after her arrival at Bombay. Capt. Keys thinks it probable, that it might have been the Island Kittan seen on the 21st August, and not Peremul-par, as they supposed, and that she struck on a shoal to the westward of the former, and afterward passed to the eastward of Chittae, the Byramgore Shoal, and Cherbaniani Reef, at no great distance, without seeing either of these dangers.

* She left China August 10th, 1827, with a valuable cargo for Bombay, beat down the China sea, touched at Anger, Sunda Strait, for refreshments, Sept. 25th, and struck on the Reef at 3 A.M. 17th November.

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Heroine's Shoal.

HEROINE'S SHOAL, near the South coast of Billiton, discovered by the ship of this name, June 14th, 1829, appeared extensive, with breakers on it, which was passed about 1½ mile distant. At 6 A. M. Two Peaked Mountain on Billiton bore N. N.W., a small island E.N.E ½ N., Shoe Island seen from the mizen shrouds S. E.; from this station, steered S. W. 4 miles, and S. S.W. 6 miles, when breakers were seen bearing S. E. distant 1½ mile, and stretching about N. E. and S.W. At noon the observed lat. 3° 31½′ S. lon. 107° 53′ E., the shoal in sight from the mast head bearing about East. June 15th, at noon, lat observed 3° 32′ S. when passing the southernmost patch of sand to the S.W. of Shoalwater Island at ½ mile distance.

Hannah's Shoal.

HANNAH'S SHOAL, appears to be a new discovery made by the ship of this name, Sept. 22nd, 1829, in returning from China through the Strait of Macassar; for the position assigned to it, differs from that of any of the other dangers adjacent to Ragged Point. When at anchor with this Point bearing W. N.W. a little westerly, the Shoal bore S. E. about 3¾ miles, with breakers on it, and it is distant about 20 miles from Ragged Point, the situation of the Shoal by noon observation being in lat. 2° 17′ S. lon. 117° 2′ E. by chronometers.

Forbes' Islet.

FORBES' ROCKY ISLET, seen in the ship Sibbald, appeared to lie 7 or 8 miles nearly East from the body of the Island Mohilla, and may be dangerous for ships passing in the night, who do not know of its existence.

Hind's Bank.

HIND'S ROCKY BANK, on which H. M. ship of this name had 6 fathoms coral rocks, Sept. 16th, 1828, lies about 4 miles from the nearest part of the Island fronting the N ¼ E. end of Rotti, a hummock on the centre of it when on the bank bearing W. ¼ S., and the S. W. point of Timor N. ¼ E. The rocks were distinctly seen under the ship, and as the water appeared to be shoaler to the westward, there may be danger in passing over this rocky shoal in bad weather when the sea runs high, particularly with a large ship. It will be avoided by keeping within 2 or 3 miles of the coast of Timor, in a safe and convenient channel.

Santa Cruz Anchorage.

SANTA CRUZ, ISLAND TENERIFFE; the best anchorage is with the Southern Steeple W. ¾ N., and the Northern Fort North by compass, where the bottom is soft.

Colombia's Reef.

COLOMBIA'S REEF, seen by the ship of this name in 1828, on the coast of New Zealand, commences about 2 miles N. N. E. from Cape Maria Van Diemen, and extends from thence in a West and W.S. W. direction full 3 miles, having apparently deep water inside between it and the cape.

Lucepara Shoals.

BANCA STRAIT KNOWLS; some of the Lucepara Knowls, appear to lie further to the N. Westward of that island than any of the outer shoals were supposed to be situated, for the Company's ship Lord Lowther, Capt. Maddan, Dec. 2nd, 1828, anchored in 4½ fathoms, and had 3¾ fathoms at low water, Lucepara Island S. 49° E., First Point of Sumatra N. 24° W., Lucepara Point S. 18° W., Parmasang Hills highest part N. 18 ½° W., Pulo Laboang Dappar N. 86° E., St. Paul's Mountain N. 71½° E., Small Peaked Hummock N. 11½° W. The boat had less than 3 fathoms at a very small distance to the Eastward of the ship at anchor.

Sea-reefs Bengal River.

SEA-REEFS HOOGLY RIVER, have been recently examined by Capt. D. Ross, the Company's Marine Surveyor, and be states that the extreme points of these reefs are 2 miles to the north of the latitude assigned to them in Capt. Maxfield's chart; and that the Light Vessel in the Eastern Channel is placed in lon. 88° 13′ E. instead of 88° 25′ E. as marked on that chart.

The following Typographical Errors in the India Directory have been discovered in the Third Edition.

Volume I. Page 32, line 11 from bottom for 29° 28′ 30″ S. read 20° 28′ 30″ S.

34, 4 from top 20 32 30 S. 20 32 30 S.

52, 5 0 45 E. 9 45 E.

183, 2 43 40 E. 42 42⅓ E.

do. 3 from bottom (Note) Eastward Westward.

Volume II. 605, 16 from top 36° 17′ N. 37° 17′ N.

Ascension Bay Dangers.

ASCENSION BAY DANGERS. From the 12 Feet Rock, Tartar Stairs bear by Compass, S. E. ½ E. distant ¼ Mile, by a late Survey.

From the 15 Feet Rock, Tartar Stairs bear by Compass, E. S. E. distant ½ Mile nearly. These Rocks are two of the many which form the Reef that extends from the foot of the Fort to S. W. Bay, and projecting to Seaward a large Half Mile from the Shore, being a formation of hard pointed Lava Rocks, with spots of While Sand. A large Coppered Buoy is now placed on the N. W. Point of the Reef, over a Rock having 30 Feet Water on it, with 8 Fathoms close on the outside. From the Buoy, the Crane at Tartar Stairs, bears by Compass S. E. by E. ¾ E. distant 7/10 of a Mile. No Ship should go within the Buoy, or come nearer to the Reef than 10 Fathoms Water, for during a long Swell, the Sea breaks on the Reef from within a Cable's Length of the Buoy, the whole way to the Shore.

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Fansyack Channel.

FANSYACK (or FAN-SHEE-AK) CHANNEL, by Mr. W. R. Blakely.*—It would be imprudent for ships Fansyack drawing 23 feet water to attempt this channel, being very narrow just above and about Tree Island, with a considerable swell when blowing strong from the northward. Ships of 20 or 21 feet draft, intending to proceed by this channel with a working wind, should observe the following directions: In coming from the southward, keep the eastern shore aboard, avoiding the spits of shoal water at the points of the islands until off the north end of the Island of Mah-chow, the shoal off the south end of which being avoided by not shutting Tree Island in with Mah-chow, or by not bringing the highest peak of Mah-chow to the westward of N. ½ W. when Fansyack and the rock off it are in one, which is the mark for the south end of Mah-chow spit; from hence to Syah or Tree Island (easily known by its having one large tree on its centre), when standing towards Lintin Bar or Fansyack Bank, keep the lead going and tack in 4 fathoms, or less, according to a ship's draft of water, but the lead will be her best guide, as the bank is much curved in shape. Standing to the eastward, do not bring the north or highest peak of Mah-chow to the eastward of south, and when the south point of Suechan bears N. 43° E. do not bring the tree on Tree Island to the westward of N. by W. ½ W., to avoid the shoal spit of 2 or 3 fathoms, that extends S. 22° E. from that island nearly 1 mile. When thus far, endeavour to pass between Tree Island and the Fishing Stakes No. 1 (in the chart) situated near it, which island is safe to approach close to the rocks; but on the western side of these stakes the water shoals suddenly to 3¼, 3, and 2¾ fathoms, irregular soundings, sand and mud.

Being close to the west end of Tree Island, do not bring the tree to bear more to the southward than S. 50° E., this bearing being close on the edge of the shore bank. Standing to the westward, do not bring the rock off Fansyack to the eastward of the saddle on the east end of Lintin, or the east end of the fishing stakes (numbered in the chart 3) to the northward of N. 33° W., the lead not being a sufficient guide for the channel bank.

If the fishing stakes be not removed, they appear to be a preferable guide to the land-mark, being always discernible, but either may be used in clear weather. When within ½ a mile of the stakes No. 3, the passage becomes wider, extending from the shore bank to Lintin Bar, with 4, 4¼, 4½ fathoms at low water, shoaling gradually on either side, so as to render the lead a guide in tacking, the bottom being very soft mud.

If close to Tree Island, with a leading wind, steer direct for the centre of the fishing stakes No. 3, and pass on either side of them, as circumstances require.

There is another range of fishing stakes, (numbered 4) bearing S.50° W. of No. 3, which will, when near them, and bearing south, warn ships of their proximity to Lintin Bar.

With ships drawing under 20 feet, a wider range may be taken; but they ought, if possible, to follow the above directions, and at any rate pass between Tree Island and the fishing stakes No. 1, or very close to their western end, and avoid the channel bank as much as possible. Ships drawing 17 feet, or under, may pass up or down any part of the channel, keeping to the eastward of Fansyack well over towards Mah-chow, avoiding the shoal spits which project from the ends of the islands. The tides were found to be very irregular, especially on the neaps, the rise and fall then only 2½ to 3 feet, and from 6 to 8½ feet on the springs: velocity from 3 to 4 knots, and from 2 to 2½ knots on the neaps. High water about 1 hour on the change of the moon.

A ship proceeding up with a working wind, should weigh instantly the tide slackens sufficiently for her to make any progress, in whatever part of the channel she may have anchored. The passage between Lintin and Fansyack should not be attempted in large ships, having only 2½ to 3 fathoms at low water in most places.

Lama Channels.

LAMA CHANNELS and HONG-KONG or LY-EE-MOON ANCHORAGE.†—The channel on the west side of the Lama was sounded at low water, and not less than 5 fathoms found, over an even bottom of soft mud; and this channel is preferable to that on the east side of Lama, which is deeper, and in some places very narrow.

The passage by the western channel to the anchorage on the north side of Hong-kong, adopted by some of the H. C. S. in 1829–30, is to steer or work up between Coweechow and the island off the north-west extremity of Hong-kong. Ships ought never to pass to the westward of Coweechow, on account of some dangerous sunken rocks on that side. Having passed Coweechow, steer directly up for the south point of Chung-yue, observing not to bring the island off the north-west end of Hong-kong to the south of S. by E. ½ E., until close up with Chung-yue, or having the west end of Won-chun-chow bearing E. by N. ½ N., which may be approached very close. With a working wind, ships may stand up well into the bay formed by Chung-yue, Won-chung-chow, and the main, taking care not to bring the west end of Won-chung-chow to the westward of S. by E.

* A survey of which has been engraved to accompany the directions here given.

† By Mr. W. R. Blakely of the Waterloo, whose survey of those places in 1829 has been engraved by the Honourable East-India Company for the benefit of navigation.

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When close to the west end of this island, steer down about S.E., or for the foot of the High ridge on Hong-kong, or a little to the southward of Ly-ee-moon Point (both marks easy to be seen). In working, the lead is a good guide for this part of the channel, which is about 1 to 1¾ mile wide.

The shoal stretching off the island at the north-west end of Hong-kong, seems not to have less than 3¾ fathoms at low water, spring tides, upon any part, the bottom soft mud.

The tide about Hong-kong is very irregular, flowing and ebbing without altering its direction at the surface, and on some days there appears only one tide in 24 hours.

The different safe anchoring places are many, as shewn by Captain Ross's chart, and well sheltered during the north-east monsoon; the only objection appears to be a want of fresh water, not easily obtained, except on Hong-kong.

Cap-sing-moon Passage.

CAP-SING-MOON PASSAGE, on the west side of Mah-wan Isle, is extremely narrow, very dangerous, and ought never to be used by ships of any class, particularly as the passage to the northward of that isle is wider, with good anchorage and a regular tide, with the advantage in the N. E. monsoon, of being to windward. In proceeding to the Ly-ee-moon anchorage, keep close to the south end of Chung-yue, and steer directly for the west end of Won-chung-chow, observing, with a working wind, to follow the directions given above.

Lavernder's Shoal.

Geo. Site.

LAVENDER'S SHOAL, has been discovered, May 17th, 1830, by Capt T. Lavender, of the Ship Roman, bound from Canton to New York, who passed it at 2 P. M. bearing East about a ¼ of a mile distant, in soundings from 20 to 26 fathoms. It extends north and south about ¾ of a mile, but is not more than 200 yards in breadth, having breakers along the eastern side, where the depth did not appear to exceed 2 feet. When the Cirencester Sand Bank was seen from the Fore yard bearing about N. b. W. to N. b. W. ½ W., the Shoal bore S. b. W. 2 or 3 miles, and it is situated in lat. 3° 25½′ S. lon. 109° 2′ E.

Grace's Shoals.

GRACE'S SHOALS, discovered by the Dutch Ship Grace, D. Allen, Commander, July 22nd, 1829, proceeding from Benjar Masseen River towards Gasper Strait, Manilla, and China, are situated near the south coast of Billiton, and appeared to be very dangerous, more particularly as they were not previously known. At day light Shoe Island bore W. S. W. about 4 leagues, steered West, and at 8 A. M. when Shoe Island bore S, S. W. distant about 3½ miles, breakers were seen bearing N. E. b. N. distant 1 mile, with some black rocks a little above water; at the same time, other breakers bore S. S. W. about ¾ of a mile, and the soundings were 11 and 11½ fathoms, sand and mud, in passing between these dangers, which probably extend in patches all the way out from the, coast of Billiton. A ship, ought, therefore, never to attempt this passage inside of Shoe Island, except in very clear and favorable weather.

Longitude of the Island St. Paul,

ISLAND ST. PAUL, described in Vol. 1st, page 98 of the India Directory, is there stated to be in longitude 77° 52′ E. by mean of nine ships observations; but several navigators have lately found their observations place it considerably farther to the westward; amongst whom, Capt. T. Lavender, of the Ship Roman, of New York, during three different voyages, has made it between lon. 77° 22½′ and 77° 27′ E. It is, therefore, prudent, to keep a good look out, in case the longitude mentioned above, should be too far east.

and Agalega,

AGALEGA ISLAND, described in Vol. 1st, page 149, is stated to be in about longitude 56° 32′ to 56° 42′ E. It may, however, possibly be a little more to the eastward, as Capt J. Hine's Chronometers made it in lon. 56° 50′ E. and Capt. T. Hutchinson, of the Ship Hero, of Malown, made it 2 or 3 leagues farther east than the last mentioned longitude.

and cape of Good Hope Observatory

CAPE TOWN OBSERVATORY, is in lon. 18° 27′ 20″ E. by corresponding observations of culminations of the moon with stars near her; taken at the Greenwich Observatory, and simultaneously, by the Rev. F. Fallows, astronomer at the Cape of Good Hope.

Direct passages from Bombay to Muscat.

THE DIRECT PASSAGE from Bombay to Muscat, has been performed last year in the strength of the southwest monsoon, by two of the Bombay Cruizers, instead of the circuitous route by a southern passage, to the southward of the equator, which latter passage has been usually chosen by all vessels proceeding to Muscat, or the Persian Gulf, in that season.

On the 1st June, at 3 P. M. 1829, the Benares, commanded by Lieutenant Haines, left Bombay Harbour, did not go to the southward of lat. 15½° N., but kept mostly between lat. 17° and 19° N. in proceeding to the Westward, and arrived at Muscat on the 21st June.

August 4th, at 4 P. M. 1829, the new Brig of war, Tigris, a fast sailer, left the Harbour, did not proceed to the southward of lat. 18° N. saw Cape Arubah on the 15th, and arrived at Muscat on the 23rd August.

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Table Bay, Cape Good Hope

TABLE BAT DANGERS. Several vessels having been lately wrecked on the reef that fronts Green Point, by borrowing too close in the night when steering into Table Bay; Lieut. J. Bance, Harbour Master at Cape Town, recommends that the following alteration be made in the Directions for entering that bay, as given by J. Goodridge, in Vol. 1st. page 82 of India Directory, and at line 12th., instead of reading "as you approach to keep them well open on the starboard bow" read "to keep the lead going, and not to come under 18 fathoms water, till the lights bear S. by E., which will carry you about a mile clear of the danger that fronts Green Point." The reef extends from Green Point along the shore, and fronts also the Mouille Pointy which projects rather farther than the former point, and forms the outer or N. Western angle of Table Bay, and it was upon this projecting part of the reef, that the Brig Sincapore, Capt. Tait, was wrecked in the night, Dec. 1st. 1830.

Hout Bay Rock Passage.

HOUT BAY ROCK, was found to have a safe passage in a case of emergency, between it and the shore, through which the Company's ship Abercrombie Robinson sailed, January 27th, 1831, in soundings from 8 to 13 fathoms, having been drifted by the current during a thick fog, into the mouth of Hout Bay, where she anchored in 7 fathoms, about a ¼ mile inside the Rock, upon which the breakers were perceived, as the fog cleared away.

Geo. Site of Jackson's Shoal.

JACKSON'S SHOAL, discovered August 26th, 1830, in the ship Hannah, Capt. Jackson, is situated in lat. 2° 56′ N., lon. 107° 55′ E. near Low Island, southern part of the China Sea. At 11 A. M. the bottom was perceived, in 14 fathoms coral, and the boat in sounding near the ship, had from 5 to 7 fathoms coral; in one place only 4¾ fathoms, with apparently less water on other patches of this coral shoal, which extends about 2 miles in a S. E. and N.W. direction, bearing from the east point of Low Island E. S. E., distant about 6 miles, and it lies 2 miles outside the Bridge water's track as marked on sheet 1st of Horsburgh's Chart of the China Sea. This shoal ought to be avoided, as well as Hutton's Shoal to the northward, which may probably be a continuation of the chain of shoals, formed of coral patches, now ascertained to exist in the proximity of Low Island.

Channel among the Thousand Islands.

THOUSAND ISLANDS, although near to Batavia, seem never to have been sufficiently explored, nor was a safe passage known to exist among them, until Lieut. J. Harding of the Royal Navy, July 19th, 1830, discovered a safe channel between several of the westernmost of these Islands, and the large group to the eastward. The northernmost Islands appeared to be in about lat 5° 35′ S. by estimation, which is farther south than marked on the charts. With the wind at E. N. E. at 3½ P. M. perceiving a wide opening in the Thousand Islands, hauled to the S.W., the North Watcher then bearing N.W. by N., and steered through a safe Channel about 5 miles wide, leaving four Isles including Pulo Estam to the westward, and the dense group of the Islands to the eastward, in soundings of 16 to 20 fathoms. When in the Channel in 16¾ fathoms, Pulo Estam or West Island bore W. ½ S., nearest isle to it W. ¼ N., an isle N. by W., another isle N, by E., North Watcher N. ¾ W., an isle E. by N. ½ N. being the northernmost of the dense body of the Thousand Islands, which to the southward of it appeared to be composed of a continuous chain. From this situation steered S.W. for Pulo Baby, and the passage seemed to be perfectly safe.

Pan Shoal.

PAN SHOAL, RHIO STRAIT, was seen, and partly examined by Lieut. Harding, in the ship Indian, May 14th, 1830, who describes it thus. Weighed from under Luban Island, and passed through the Western Channel between the Pan Shoal and Battam Island, toward the Strait of Singapore, steering about N. N.W. When nearly in mid-channel, about 1 ½ mile from the Battam shore and 1¼ mile from the shod, bad soundings of 10 and 9½ fathoms least water, (as marked in Horsburgh's Chart) the shoal apparently about 3 feet above water; but afterwards when a boat was sent to examine it, the tide had flowed over it to the depth of about 4 feet. When upon the western edge in 7 fathoms water, the angle between Barbucet Hill and Battam Point was 68° 18′: when upon the shoal, the angle between the same objects was 70° 35′ (the bearing, as by chart, Barbucet Hill N. ¼ E., Battam Point W. N.W.) Between Barbucet Hill and Bintang Hill the angle was 101° 43′, and between Barbucet Hill and Johore Hill 44° 30′. The shoal appeared to be about ⅓ of a mile in length, and parallel to the Strait of Rhio; the broadest part fronting the Strait of Singapore.

South Natunas.

SOUTH NATUNA ISLANDS, are very imperfectly explored, and their extent and relative situations appear not to be represented correctly in the charts, according to the following observations of Capt. Forbes, of the American ship Lintin. October 24th, 1830, at noon, steering N. E. for the passage between the South Natunas and West Island, which appears in the chart of the China Sea to be safe, was surprised to see low land a-head, and had these bearings. West Island from N. N.W. ¾ W. to N.W. ½ W. distant about 8 miles; a rock off the N.E. part of West Island N. by W. ¾ W.; Haycock S. E. by S. ¼ S.; South Natuna group from E. ¼ S. to E. by S. ¼ S.; an island just visible from the deck E. ¼ N.; nearest low land seen from the deck, flat, and covered with trees E. N. E. ¼ N.; low land seen from the mizen top N. ¾ E. to N. N. E.; latitude 2° 35′ N. by good observation in 24 fathoms water. Perceiving by the bearings, that these islands are not correctly laid down in the chart, hauled out to the westward, and with some difficulty, on account of a N. W. current, cleared West Island on the western side, and steered for the Palawan Passage.

St. John's and Haring's Islands.

ST. JOHN'S, AND HARINGS OR BOMIGE ISLANDS, situated near the northern entrance of Macassar Strait, have hitherto been placed in a N. N.Westerly direction from Point Kanneeoongan; but Capt. Forbes, on his passage from Manilla towards Boston in June, 1829, passed near these islands, and describes them as follows. June 7th, with the wind at eastward, made St. John's Mand early in the morning, and passed along the edge

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of apparent shoat water which connects it with the two Haring's Islands, and just weathered the latter, St. John's Island, eastern part, bears from Point Kanneeoongan N. by E. ¾ E., and this island or group of islands is connected with the Haring's Islands by a well defined line of green water, having some dry patches upon it. By a good observation taken near the Haring Islands, made them in lat. 1° 50′ N., and bearing North a little easterly from Point Kanneeoongan distant 43 or 45 miles: they are two small low islands separated 1½ or 2 miles from each other, but connected by green water apparently shoal, and are in a transit line bearing E. by S. and W. by N.

Two Brothers and Carang Timbaga.

THE TWO BROTHERS, near Sunda Strait, thought to be separated by a small channel, have lately been inspected by Capt. Duncan, of the Ship, Baltic; who states, that he could walk along the reef at low tide, from one island to the other. He also describes Carang Timbaga, in Banca Strait, (not long since a rock scarcely covered at high tide) to be now an island with coco-nut trees on it, and having a safe channel between it and Banca.

Geo. site of Hog Island.

HOG ISLAND, the N.W. end, by observations taken in H. M. S. Pandora, is situated in lat. 2° 50′ N. lon. 95° 32′ E.; and two small very low isles near it, in lat. 2° 56′ N., lon. 95° 27′ E.

Zupthen Islands Anchorage;

ZUPTHEN ISLANDS, the anchorage near the northernmost, is stated by Capt. Ladd, to be preferable to the anchorage at North Island, during southerly winds, and also for obtaining a supply of water at a Malay village on the coast adjacent, which bears W. by N. from one of the northernmost islands. In November, 1830 he remained several days at anchor in the ship Austen, during strong S.W. gales, in 9 fathoms water, soft ground, about 1½ mile off shore, with the Zupthen Islands bearing S. E. to S.W. by S., and had very smooth water.

Pulo Goondy Passage.

PULO GOONDY STRAIT, or PASSAGE, in Sunda Strait, described in Vol. II. page 103, India Directory, is probably a safer passage than usually supposed; for the Company's ship Abercrombie Robinson, Capt. Innes, proceeded through it on the 19th December, 1830, homeward-bound from China, and had room to work through. This ship entered the north end of the passage in the morning with a light breeze at W. S. W., steered to the southward for a small island, tacked at 8 A. M. to northward, and at 8h. 30m. tacked again to southward, passing within a ¼ mile of the western point that forms the narrowest part of the passage. A current set strong through the passage to the southward, which Capt. Innes thinks, would drift a ship clear of either shore during a calm, if the depth were too great for anchorage.

Blair's Harbour, Rock in the entrance.

BLAIR'S HARBOUR, Malay East Coast, described in Vol. II. page 253, India Directory, was visited by Capt, Pridham of the Royal Navy, on the 8th Sept. 1830, who gives the following description of a rock situated in the entrance of that harbour, which seems not to have been previously known. At anchor, well sheltered in Blair's Harbour, discovered on the falling of the tide, a Rock above water, about the size of a small boat, near the outer northernmost island that forms the entrance into the bay or harbour, the extremes of which bear N. ½ W. and N. N. E. ½ E. from it. There is deep water around the rock, 5, 6, and 7 fathoms within a few yards, and a passage between it and the above mentioned island, which might be used with a leading wind.

Doubtful Shoal in the China sea.

DOUBTFUL SHOAL, stated to have been seen by Capt. Duncan of the ship Baltic, June 22d, 1829, situated in lat. 12° 15′ N., lon. 111° 8′ E. by chronometer, and appeared to be 1 or 2 miles in circuit, with breakers upon it. From his representation, on his arrival at Manilla, a vessel was sent to examine it, which vessel found only 4 feet water in some places on the shoal, and made it in lat. 12° 15′ N., lon. 111° 16′ E. Notwithstanding what is stated above, it appears almost impossible that a shoal of this description can exist in the situation here given without being often seen, being in the direct route of ships proceeding to, and from China.

Directions for the River Tamar.

RIVER TAMAR, Port Dalrymple, Van Diemen's Land. Capt. Welsh, having lately surveyed the river Tamar, gives the following directions for entering it. Upon the Hebe dangerous reef, a Beacon surmounted with a broad vane, has been placed, bearing from the flagstaff on Low Head W. 2° S., distance about 3½ miles: also another on the sunken Rock within the head called the Barrel Rock, with a broad sheet of tin facing the western channel, and painted white. There is a safe passage between Hebe Reef Beacon and Point Flinders, with soundings of 7, 10, and 14 fathoms: to sail through, it must be observed, that Hebe Reef Beacon is placed on the western extremity of the shoal, and the Channel is about 1¼ mile wide; keep in mid-channel or rather nearest to Hebe Reef, and steer for the flagstaff on Low Head till the outer beacon at the entrance of Tamar River is on with the Mill at George Town, which will lead clear of the Yellow Rock. Having the outer Beacon and Mill in one, steer for the Beacon till you enter the western channel, then pass between the outer beacon and that on the Barrel Rock, keeping mid-channel. The latter part of the ebb and first of the flood tide, sets direct from Low Head over Hebe Reef.

Roef in Pacific Ocean.

DANGEROUS REEF, lately discovered amongst the Carolina Islands, Pacific Ocean, its N. E. extremity in lat. 7° 36′ whence it extended in a S.W. direction beyond the perceptible view. It is situated about 14 miles in a W. S.W. direction from the Island Bordelaise discovered in 1826.

Geo. site of Fortune Bank.

FORTUNE BANK, was partly crossed over, April 12th, 1830, by the Company's ship Abercrombie Robinson, Capt. J. Innes; who carried regular soundings of 10 to 17 fathoms, least water 10 fathoms, in steering N. by E. about 5 or 6 miles over the supposed N.W. edge of the bank, which part was found to be in lat 7° 6′ S., lon. 56° 31′ E. by lunar observations, and in lon. 56° 49½′ E. by mean of 6 chronometers.

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Mergui Archipelago.

MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO,* fronting the Coast of Tenasserim, the islands of which in some parts lie 60 miles off the main land, extends from Tavoy island in lat. 18° 13′ to the Sayer islands in lat. 8° 30′ N. These islands are usually high, covered with large trees, thick underwood, difficult to penetrate; and scarcely an acre of level ground on any one island fit for cultivation, which may account for their having no inhabitants.

The Malays and a few Chinese from about Penang visit the Archipelago annually, to collect edible birds nests, found more or less in almost every little rocky island. Trepang, Biche de Mer, or Sea Slug, may also be an object of search, but it must be scarce, there being no extensive Coral Shoals. The proas from Penang and the Straits may be nearly 100; they are too small to carry cannon, and they avoided us, which shyness might arise from their trespassing on the rights of those who farm the collection from Government.

On the beaches of several islands the marks of the deer and hog were seen, also a foot print said to be the tiger's, but none of these animals were met with; on St. Matthew's island marks of the elephant or tapir were seen.

The islands rest on a rocky basis, and on the rocks of many the oysters are abundant and wholesome; good fish likewise abound, but we were only successful with the cat-fish, of which a fresh meal was almost daily caught.

Many small barren rocks stand amongst the islands of the Archipelago, usually with deep water near to them, but we meet with few hidden dangers.

The Northerly or fair weather Monsoon commences on this coast about the middle of October, at which time the wind hangs much at East, occasionally blowing fresh. In December, about noon, the sea breeze sets in from N. W., veering to north about sunset; and by midnight the wind is from E. N. E. or East, at times blowing strong between sunset and 11 A.M.: therefore, by keeping near to the islands you will proceed rapidly to the Northward; whereas, in the offing, the wind is chiefly from N. N. E. to N. N. W. In March the sea-winds set in from the Southward of West, with light winds and calms in the offing—on two occasions, in February and March, we made but 8 or 10 miles per day, from very light weather experienced between Cabosa and Negrais, with a drain of current to the Southward. In April, the afternoon becomes squally with the wind at East, and much thunder and lightning amongst the islands, but the Southerly or rainy Monsoon does not set in until about the middle of May, after which the Archipelago is subject to very squally weather for successive days, and a deluge of rain; judging however of the weather by the Nearchus's log-book, which vessel was the whole rainy Monsoon of 1818 amongst the islands, it appears that a vessel will not find it difficult to beat to the Southward within the islands, as the Nearchus frequently experienced the wind from S. E. and several successive days of fine weather, so that, had dispatch been necessary, much progress might have been made to the Southward.

The tide on the Northern part of the coast, between Tavoy and Martaban Rivers, is much stronger than it is to the Southward in the Archipelago. About Martaban its velocity on the springs is frequently 7 knots per hour, making it dangerous for a vessel to approach that part of the coast without good ground tackling. In the S. W. Monsoon, when blowing strong on the springs, shelter may be taken behind Calagouk Island, anchoring in safety until the weather become moderate.

In the Archipelago, the rise and fall of spring tides is from 13 to 15 feet, and the greatest velocity experienced, 3 knots per hout, depending on the direction of the channels—high water on full and change of moon, from 10 to 11 hours, amongst the islands. In the offing the flood sets from West; the direction of the stream within the islands is governed by the channels, but if broad and clear, the ebb runs from East, and the flood from West. The influence of the tides will probably not be felt above 4 or 5 leagues from the land, and if within the influence of regular tides, the lines of strong ripplings common on this coast are not felt.—Ata little distance Westward of the islands, and Southward about Junkseylon, in calm weather during the N. E. Monsoon, those strong ripplings extend in long lines of direction parallel to the coast, and move past a vessel towards the land at the rate of 7 or 8 miles per hour, without her being carried along with them. They frequently break high, are dangerous for small boats, and alarming to strangers: they come in quick succession on the flood tide in shore, and disappear on the ebb.

Mergui Archipelago.

In the fair season, when no rain falls for several months, many of the mountain streams become dry, and fresh water is not easily procured. Hasting's Harbour affords but a small supply at such times. At the following places fresh water has been obtained in the driest part of the season, viz. at two stations on the East side of Tavoy island, one just within the small group of islands near its North extreme; the other near a small pagoda abreast of a small, island near the South extreme. In King's Island Bay, on the Western shore, about 2 miles from the West point of the entrance. West side of Domel at some sandy beaches well within the straits which divide Domel and Lord William Bentinck's Island. West side of Sullivan's Island, at beaches nearly under the highest hill of that part, there is a plentiful stream in the bay, having a large white rock in

* By Capt. D. Rose, F. R. S., Marine Surveyor General, Bengal; as an accompaniment to his Chart of the Archipelago, finished November 1831.

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front; this is the most convenient watering place for a passing vessel in the N. E. Monsoon, being easy of access, with good anchorage. East side of St, Matthew's Island, in a Bay to the S. W. of the Dolphin's Nose. And on the East side of Calagouk Island, there is a well of good water near the highest hummock.

If a ship be to the Southward of Torres Islands, and in want of shelter within the Archipelago, she may pass near to the small group of three islands situated 10 miles S. S. E. of the Western Torres. The Southernmost of the small islands is in lat. 11° 37′ 30″ N. visible at 4 or 5 leagues distance; by steering, East from it 22 miles, a small group of four rocky islands will then be about 5 or 6 miles to the Southward of you, and Nearchus's Rock distant about 5 miles to the Northward; this rock is nearly covered at high water, but always shows breakers; the South Extreme of Lord William Bentinck's Island will bear about East from you, distant 4 leagues. Steer to pass about 3 miles to the Southward of this island in order to avoid some small isles near it, and a reef of rocks always dry, distant about 2¼ miles to the Southward of the point; in this run the depth will be from 45 to 23 fathoms. When abreast of Lord William Bentinck's Island, Domel will bear East from you, high mountainous, land, and. a group of islands named the Sisters, will bear to the Southward, distant about 10 miles; steer up the strait to the Northward for the South Passage Island 8½ miles distant from the S. E. point of Bentinck's Island, and anchor to the Northward of it in 7 or 8 fathoms, in Bentinck's Harbour, where you will be land-locked and secure from all swell, in good holding ground, mod, and sand. The Northern passage out of the harbour is between West Passage Island and a small islet crowned with a tuft of trees, named Cap and Feather. This passage is 2 miles wide, having the greatest depth of water, 5 and 6 fathoms, near the Passage island, decreasing to 3¾ fathoms near the Cap and Feather.

If needful to communicate with Mergui, steer to the Northward and pass on the West side of Christmass Islands, distant 10 miles from the Cap and Feather, then steer E. N. E. towards two high peaked islands, where you may anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms to the N. W. of these, and Mergui will be about 6 leagues to the N. E. of your anchorage.

To proceed from Bentinck's Harbour to the Southward, pass between the Sisters and Bushby's Island; then between the Father and Son, and Sir Edward Owen's Island, into Forrest's Straits: there are no invisible dangers in this route, but some small rocky islands lie on the East side of the Sisters, and several dry rocks about 1¼ mile to the Northward of the Son; yet the soundings in some parts are irregular, and the bottom changeable from mud and sand, to shells and coral when there are overfalls, but never less than 9 fathoms was got in mid channel after passing to the Southward of Bushby's Island.

Forrest's Passage, in lat. 11° N. is the best leading into the Archipelago, and if approached on that parallel the Island Clara will be the first land seen, which is high, and having several small peaks, the Southern one very sharp like a sugar-loaf. Distant about 1¼ mile off the Northern part of Clara, there is a small isle and a rock, which pass about a mile to the Northward, and steer towards the North point of Sullivan's Island, distant 4 leagues to the Eastward. The Sisters, situated about 7 leagues to the Northward of Clara, will be seen, also the Father and Son, two high rocky islands of barren appearance lying about 4 leagues N. N. W. of Sullivan's Island: steer to pass off the North end of Sullivan's Island about 1½ mile, nearer to it is uneven ground with strong eddies; if blowing strong from S. W. haul to the Southward to pass between Two Hill and Olive Island on the west side, which are close to Sullivan's Island, and High Island on the other side, which is 5 miles to the Eastward of them. In this route the depth is about 40 fathoms 3 leagues to the Westward of Clara, and 30 fathoms when North of it, to 18 or 20 fathoms off the North End of Sullivan's Island, where there are occasional overfalls. If merely seeking shelter, you will find a very smooth anchorage after passing a little way to the Southeast of Olive Island, in 6, 7, or 8 fathoms.

In Forres's Passage, in the N. E. Monsoon, it sometimes blows so strong that a ship will be unable to gain ground.

From the North part of Sullivan's Island to the lower part of St. Matthew's Island, Forrest's Strait is land locked, and secure against any sea of consequence.

In passing to the Southward from the N. E. part of Sullivan's Island, observe that the Half Moon Shoal, covered at high water, lies 3 miles to the Northward of the Eastern point of Sullivan's Island, and a large mile off Shore, being steep to, with 8 or 9 fathoms near it at low water. The Eastern extreme of the Dolphin Islands and East extreme of Olive Island in one, is a close mark to clear the Northeast part of the shoal; and the Eastern Point of Sullivan's Island touching Bold Promontory, of the same island, 3 miles further South, leads a ½ mile clear to the Eastward of the shoal. A small rocky reef covered at half-flood lies on the East side of the strait, fronting an opening between the islands, and it lies 7 miles nearly E. by S. from the point or foreland of Sullivan's Island; and 3 miles to the Southward of a high barren rock on the Eastern shore; near this reef the depth is 3 fathoms at low water spring tides.

The channel to the Eastward of the islands called Gregory's in the chart, is preferable, as the depths are moderate for anchorage, with good holding ground; and the tides run North and South, about 1½ mile per hour on the springs.

The bottom in the channel to the Westward of the Gregorys is uneven, with patches of Coral, and about

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1 mile from the East side of Steep Island, there is a rocky shoal nearly dry at low water: the extreme of East Foreland and Bold Promontory to the Southward of it, in one, is nearly upon its N. E., edge.

Mergui Archipelago.

Six small islands lie in mid strait between Sullivan's Island and the Eastern shore. Chrichton's Island, the northernmost, has a rocky reef projecting to the Northward and to the Southwest, with 14 fathoms water near its eastern side. The other five islands, the Gregory's of Forrest, are very rocky around, particularly the four nearest to Chrichton's Island.

Observing all the country boats pass near the shore to the Eastward of the Gregorys, affords cause to believe it a part of the continent.

Several small brigs of easy draft of water, and junks, trading between Penang, Mergui, and Tavoy, their route is usually through Forrest's Strait, to the Northward, passing to the Eastward of Sir Edward Owen's Island; when they get abreast of the middle of Domel, the passage becomes very shallow, being nearly dry all across, with a narrow creek through the sand, which creek lies on the West side of the channel, near to the Domel shore.

Another clear and safe entrance into the Southern part of the Archipelago, for ships going to Hastings' Harbour, is in late 10° 15′ N. by passing to the Southward of the Southern Twin, and leaving Horsburgh's Island in lat. 10° 11′ 45″ N. to the Southward, and Lord Loughborough's large group of islands to the Northward of you; this channel is quite safe, nearly 6 miles wide in the narrowest part between Cavern Island and the Northern islands of St. Andrew's group; the course is about East, and a ship may pass between St. Luke's and Russel's Island to enter Hastings' Harbour.

Hastings' Harbour is very smooth and secure during both Monsoons, but care is required in entering by the Eastern channel, for a dangerous patch of rocks lies about ⅓ channel over from St. Matthews' Island towards the South west point of Hastings' Island, also a rocky reef off the south point of Hastings' Island, for which the lead gives no warning. The Investigator was left dry on the latter, on the day of full moon in March, and obliged to be lightened, by taking out her guns and starting the water, before she floated on the next tide.

The Nearchus and Minto surveying vessels, passed through the Eastern channel often, and never discovered these reefs, neither in boats frequently, nor in working in and out of the channel in the Investigator, was the small reef discovered near to St Matthews, until afterwards in that vessel, two casts of the lead were got on it, in 2¾ fathoms, and it was then examined in the boats. The surveying vessels traversed all over Hastings' Harbour, and discovered no other dangers.

The strait abreast of Hastings' Harbour becomes contracted by a shoal bank extending from the islands on the Eastern Shore; in passing thereabouts keep nearest to St. Matthews.

St. Vincent, destitute of good refreshments.

ISLAND ST. VINCENT, ono of the Cape Verds, afforded formerly a supply of water, and some other refreshments for ships, as stated in vol. 1st India Directory:—but the ship Lonach, commanded by Lieut. Cotgrave, R. N. anchored there, and remained from the 25th December, 1829, to the 1st January, 1830, without being able, to procure any refreshments, excepting a few small bullocks brought from the mountains by the natives.

Neither fruits, nor vegetables; nor any good water could be obtained; a very small quantity of the latter was got by digging, and from a little well, not drinkable, for it was muddy, and soon became putrid, but it was given to live stock op board.

Saldanha Bay, deficient of good water.

SALDANHA BAY, seldon affords a sufficient supply of good water for a single ship, which has been noticed in vol. 1st of the India Directory. A remarkable example of this has lately been experienced in the ship General Palmer, carly in 1832, which ship having falien to leeward of Table Bay during a strong southerly wind, took shelter in Saldanha Bay, where she was detained by boisterous winds and a high sea prevailing outside, which prevented her from being able to reach the short distance of Table Bay. It was hopeless and expensive to procure water from a distance of 20 or 30 miles by small waggons over bad roads, therefore, after a stay of several weeks in Saldanha Bay, the General Palmer bore away for St. Helena to get a supply of water, which place she reached in 11 days, and was 21 days more on the passage from thence to Table Bay. If a ship should, like the General Palmer, fall to leeward, and run for Saldanha Bay, short of water, information should immediately be forwarded to Cape Town, which is distant only one day's journey, and 20 tons of water can be sent from thence in a few hours to the former place, by a decked cutter-rigged boat, built purposely for encountering bad weather.*

* These notices of a scarcity of water at St. Vincent. and Saldanha Bay, have been sent to me by Mr. W. Petric, Deputy Commissary General, Cape of Good Hope, who went out in the Lonach, when she touched at St. Vincent.

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Newly discovered Bank.

CHALLENGER BANK, to the eastward of Ras-el-had, was discovered by His Majesty's Schooner Challenger, August 9th, 1830, when at 1½ P. M. the sea changed colour suddenly, with great ripplings, and on immediately sounding, she had ground, two casts of 13 fathoms, and soon after no ground at 65 fathoms, the sea having resumed its natural colour. From the appearance of discoloured water, this bank seemed to be 3 miles in length, and ½ a mile in breadth, situated in lat. 22° 29′ N. lon. 60° 25¼′ E. or nearly 40 miles distant from Ras-el-had, by the observations of G. C. Dowers, Master of the above named ship.

Pacific Ocean discoveries.

ISLANDS AND DANGERS, lately seen in the Pacific Ocean by American navigators. In 1830–1, Capt. Meek, of the schooner Chinchilla, fell in with small Islands in the following situations, lat. 18° S. lon. 161° 45′ W.—lat. 6° 41′ S. lon. 166° 10′ W.—lat. 8° 40′ S. 159° 50′ W.—lat 9° 57′ S. lon. 148° 30′ W. lat. 5° 30′ N. lon. 159° 20′ W.—lat. 13° 5′ N. lon. 168° 21′ W.—An Island in lat. 4° 48′ S. lon. 178° 40′ W. about 15 or 20 leagues in circumference, having on the northwest side an opening into a large lagoon, where a small vessel may enter. An Island in lat. 3° 30′ S. lon. 172° 50′ E. affording plenty of firewood and coconuts, but no water except in the rainy season on the northwest part of the Island. There is an entrance to a lagoon, and good landing at the left hand end of the beach. An Island in lat. 0° 25′ N. lon. 170° W. has a good harbour, with regular depths from 10 to 4 fathoms over a bottom of sand and coral; the entrance to which is ¾ of a mile wide between two reefs. Good fresh water of any quantity may be got by sinking one or two casks at the head of the beach, a little above high water mark. Firewood, coconuts and fish may also be obtained.

Capt. David, in command of the American Barque Nelson, fell in with a Sand Bank in lat. 19° 21′ S. lon. 151° 2′ E., extending S. E. and N. W. about 4 or 5 leagues, and, fronted on the east side by a reef of rocks, about 13 feet above the level of the sea at low water.

Geo. site of St. Helena Observatory.

ST. HELENA OBSERVATORY, is stated by Mr. Johnson, the resident astronomer, to be, in lat 15° 55′ 24″ S., and in lon. 5° 44′ 16″ W. from three observations of moon culminating stars, with corresponding observations at Greenwich. This longitude agrees nearly with the deductions of Capt. W. F. W. Owen, who places James Town in 5° 44′ 48″ W.

Errata.

Errata, in Vol. 1st, Inudia Directory, page 18, line 9, for 14° 59 N. read 14° 52½′ N.—line 11, for 5 miles, read 2½ or 3 miles. Vol. 2nd, Supplement, page 638, the Doubtful Shoal said to have been seen in lat. 12° 15′ N. lon 111° 16′ E. has certainly no existence.

Atwick Rock, a new discovery

Geo. Site.

ATWICK ROCK, discovered by the ship of this name, on her voyage homeward from Singapore, August 7th, 1831 8½ A. M., at which time she grounded upon it, and made the lat. 1° 48½′ S. lon. 107° 34′ E., or 22 miles east of Saddle Island, in Clement's Straits, measured to that Island by chronometer, in 48 hours after the accident.

This account is transcribed from a Cape of Good Hope newspaper, and signed H. M' Kay, Commander of the Atwick. If a rock really exist in the situation given above, it renders additional caution necessary in ships approaching Clement's Straits, or the Carimata Passage from the northward during cloudy or hazy weather, when their position is uncertain, from the want of good observations.

Cape Verd Reef.

Vol. 1st, page 12, lines 5 and 6, instead of "In some charts, &c" read, a dangerous reef of rocks, part of them above water, projects from Cape Verd about a league to the westward. Capt Bathie, in the Evander, in 1826, was set by the current into the deep bay on the north side of the Cape, and had no soundings with 100 fathoms line, with the Cape bearing W. S. W. about 5 leagues distant, and 3 miles off shore, nor was any soundings got afterwards in passing within a few miles of the above mentioned reef. Vol. 2nd, page 174, line 4 from foot, instead of "may be approached to 10 fathoms" must be avoided, as foul ground and breakers project from Point Pedro to a considerable distance, for which the soundings are not a sufficient guide, being irregular over a rocky bottom, requiring great caution in the night, at which times it is prudent to borrow towards Pulo Malora.

Geo. Site of Firebrass shoals.

FIREBRASS SHOALS, said to have been seen by the ship of this name in 1682, and by the Devonshire in 1766, have been considered doubtful; but their existence has been ascertained by the Barque Rover, Southern Whaler, and the following description is given by Mr. Butcher of that vessel. Rover, April 21st, 1831, at 1½ P. M. discovered a large and dangerous shoal, in lat. 12° 22′ S. lon. 46° 19¾′ E extending E. S. E. and W. N. W. about 10 miles, 4 or 5 miles of which dries at ½ ebb, and the other parts are conspicuous with high breakers. When the centre of the shoals bore N. by E. ½ E. distant about 2 leagues, had soundings of 12 to 8 fathoms rocks and sand. From hence steered to the W. S. W., and on making Mayotta, found the observations for longitude by mean of lunars and chronometer were correct. The Borneo Whaler, was lost 22nd July, 1832, by striking on a Coral Shoal said to be in lat. 12° S. lon. 46° E, which was probably the Firebrass Shoals.

Discoveries of safe openings in the Barrier Reefs Australia East.

BARRIER REEFS PASSAGES, directly to the eastward of Sir Charles Hardy's Isles, have now become of great importance to the navigation of Australia, as several safe new channels through the Barrier have lately been discovered, which are laid down on the Chart of these Passages published by me in 1830, and corrected to the present time. Several of these openings are nearly contiguous to each other, there being three safe passages through the Barrier, between lat 11° 53′ and 11° 57½′ S. And another safe channel about ½ a mile wide in lat. 12° 0′ S. was discovered on the 17th June 1829, by Capt. Robert Brown, through which he passed in the Ship Lord Melville.

No navigator in possession of the little Chart of these Passages, will ever attempt to follow the now exploded circuitous and dangerous route by the Eastern Fields and Murray's Islands into Torres Strait.

[page] 643

Camden Shoal.

CAMDEN SHOAL, near the S. W. end of the Island Billiton, appears to be a new discovery, seen by Capt. Clayton, on his passage from Sourabaya towards Singapore, in the Ship Camden. July 24th, 1833, intending to pass through Clement's Straits, he made Shoe Island, and steered N. W. to go between Shoal Water Island and the Long-low Island, off the S. W. end of Billiton. At 6½ P.M. Shoe Island bore S. E. by E. then saw Islands bearing N. N. W. called Lestock Islands, by Capt. Clayton: at 8 P. M. shortened sail, and hove to, during the night. At day-light, after making sail, and when Lestock Islands bore N. E. by E. distant about 6 miles, a Shoal was observed close to the Ship, in extent about one third of a mile, having on its centre several black rocks. By taking the relative bearings of the land, and run to Shoal Water Island, the Shoal is situated in lat 3° 26′ S. lon. 107° 36′ E.; and it lies directly in the track of Ships coming from the eastward towards Clement's or Gaspar Straits, as described in Vol, 2nd, page 151 of the India Directory.